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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/15777-8.txt b/15777-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..cad8e32 --- /dev/null +++ b/15777-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11307 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Voyage Towards the South Pole and Round +the World, Volume 1, by James Cook + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Voyage Towards the South Pole and Round the World, Volume 1 + +Author: James Cook + +Contributor: Tobias Furneaux + +Release Date: May 7, 2005 [EBook #15777] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH *** + + + + + + + + + + +A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD; PERFORMED IN +HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND ADVENTURE, IN THE YEARS +1772, 3, 4, AND 5. WRITTEN BY JAMES COOK, COMMANDER OF THE RESOLUTION. +IN WHICH IS INCLUDED CAPTAIN FURNEAUX'S NARRATIVE OF HIS PROCEEDINGS +IN THE ADVENTURE DURING THE SEPARATION OF THE SHIPS. IN TWO VOLUMES. +ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND CHARTS, AND A VARIETY OF PORTRAITS OF +PERSONS AND VIEWS AND PLACES, DRAWN DURING THE VOYAGE BY MR. HODGES, +AND ENGRAVED BY THE MOST EMINENT MASTERS. + +VOLUME I + +* * * + +LONDON: +PRINTED FOR W STRAHAN AND T CADELL IN THE STRAND. +MDCCLXXVII +(1777) + +* * * + + +CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. + + +GENERAL INTRODUCTION. + +BOOK I. +From our departure from England to leaving the Society Isles the +first time. + +CHAPTER I. Passage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an Account +of several Incidents that happened by the Way, and Transactions there. + +CHAPTER II. Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a Southern +Continent. + +CHAPTER III. Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent, between the +Meridian of the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an Account of +the Separation of the two Ships, and the Arrival of the Resolution in +Dusky Bay. + +CHAPTER IV. Transactions in Dusky Bay, with an Account of several +Interviews with the Inhabitants. + +CHAPTER V. Directions for sailing in and out of Dusky Bay, with an Account +of the adjacent Country, its Produce, and Inhabitants: Astronomical and +Nautical Observations. + +CHAPTER VI. Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an +Account of some Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure. + +CHAPTER VII. Captain Furneaux's Narrative, from the Time the two Ships +were separated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with +some Account of Van Diemen's Land. + +CHAPTER VIII. Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Remarks +on the Inhabitants. + +CHAPTER IX. Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of some +low Islands, supposed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bougainville. + +CHAPTER X. Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the +critical Situation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened +while they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay. + +CHAPTER XI. An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats +being left on the Island; and many other Particulars which happened +while the Ships lay in Matavai Bay. + +CHAPTER XII. An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, +with the Incidents that happened while the Ships lay there; and of +Omai, one of the Natives, coming away in the Adventure, + +CHAPTER XIII. Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With +an Account of what happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives, +coming away in the Resolution. + +CHAPTER XIV. An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present +State of the Islands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs +of the Inhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected. + +BOOK II. +From our Departure from the Society Isles, to our Return to and leaving +them the second Time. + +CHAPTER I. Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account +of the Discovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened at +Middleburg. + +CHAPTER II. The Arrival of the Ships at Amsterdam; a Description of a +Place of Worship; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while we +remained at that Island. + +CHAPTER III. A Description of the Islands and their Produce; with the +Cultivation, Houses, Canoes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons, +Customs, Government, Religion, and Language of the Inhabitants. + +CHAPTER IV. Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an +Account of an Interview with the Inhabitants, and the final Separation +of the two Ships. + +CHAPTER V. Transactions at Queen Charlotte's Sound; with an Account of +the Inhabitants being Cannibals; and various other Incidents.--Departure +from the Sound, and our Endeavours to find the Adventure; with some +Description of the Coast. + +CHAPTER VI. Route of the Ship from New Zealand in Search of a Continent; +with an Account of the various Obstructions met with from the Ice, and the +Methods pursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean. + +CHAPTER VII. Sequel of the Passage from New Zealand to Easter Island, and +Transactions there, with an Account of an Expedition to discover the +Inland Part of the Country, and a Description of some of the +surprising gigantic Statues found in the Island. + +CHAPTER VIII. A Description of the Island, and its Produce, Situation, and +Inhabitants; their Manners, and Customs; Conjectures concerning their +Government, Religion, and other Subjects; with a more particular +Account of the gigantic Statues. + +CHAPTER IX. The Passage from Easter Island to the Marquesas Islands. +Transactions and Incidents which happened while the Ship lay in Madre +de Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the Island of St Christina. + +CHAPTER X. Departure from the Marquesas; a Description of the Situation, +Extent, Figure, and Appearance of the several Islands; with some +Account of the Inhabitants, their Customs, Dress, Habitations, Food, +Weapons, and Canoes. + +CHAPTER XI. A Description of several Islands discovered, or seen in the +Passage from the Marquesas to Otaheite; with an Account of a Naval +Review. + +CHAPTER XII. Some Account of a Visit from Otoo, Towha, and several other +Chiefs; also of a Robbery committed by one of the Natives, and its +Consequences, with general Observations on the Subject. + +CHAPTER XIII. Preparations to leave the Island. Another Naval Review, and +various other Incidents; with some Account of the Island, its Naval +Force, and Number of Inhabitants. + +CHAPTER XIV. The Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Huaheine; with an +Account of an Expedition into the Island, and several other Incidents +which happened while she lay there. + +CHAPTER XV. Arrival at Ulietea; with an Account of the Reception we met +with there, and the several Incidents which happened during our Stay. A +Report of two Ships being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the +island, and the Regret the Inhabitants shewed on the Occasion. The +Character of Oedidee; with some general Observations on the Island. + +* * * * * + +GENERAL INTRODUCTION. + +Whether the unexplored part of the Southern Hemisphere be only an immense +mass of water, or contain another continent, as speculative geography +seemed to suggest, was a question which had long engaged the attention, not +only of learned men, but of most of the maritime powers of Europe. + +To put an end to all diversity of opinion about a matter so curious and +important, was his majesty's principal motive in directing this voyage to +be undertaken, the history of which is now submitted to the public. + +But, in order to give the reader a clear idea of what has been done in it, +and to enable him to judge more accurately, how far the great object that +was proposed, has been obtained, it will be necessary to prefix a short +account of the several voyages which have been made on discoveries to the +Southern Hemisphere, prior to that which I had lately the honour to +conduct, and which I am now going to relate. + +1519 Magalhaens. + +The first who crossed the vast Pacific Ocean, was Ferdinand Magalhaens, a +Portuguese, who, in the service of Spain, sailed from Seville, with five +ships, on the 10th of April, 1519. He discovered the straits which bear his +name; and having passed through them, on the 27th of November, 1520, +entered the South Pacific Ocean. + +In this sea he discovered two uninhabited islands, whose situations are not +well known. He afterwards crossed the Line; discovered the Ladrone Islands; +and then proceeded to the Phillipines, in one of which he was killed in a +skirmish with the natives. + +His ship, called the Victory, was the first that circumnavigated the globe; +and the only one of his squadron that surmounted the dangers and distresses +which attended this heroic enterprise. + +The Spaniards, after Magalhaens had shewed them the way, made several +voyages from America to the westward, previous to that of Alvaro Mendana De +Neyra, in 1595, which is the first that can be traced step by step. For the +antecedent expeditions are not handed down to us with much precision. + +We know, however, in general, that, in them, New Guinea, the islands called +Solomon's, and several others, were discovered. + +Geographers differ greatly concerning the situation of the Solomon Islands. +The most probable opinion is, that they are the cluster which comprises +what has since been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c. + +1595 Mendana. + +On the 9th of April, 1595, Mendana, with intention to settle these islands, +sailed from Callao, with four ships; and his discoveries in his route to +the west, were the Marquesas, in the latitude of 10° S.; the island of St +Bernardo, which I take to be the same that Commodore Byron calls the Island +of Danger; after that, Solitary Island, in the latitude of 10° 40' S., +longitude 178° W.; and, lastly, Santa Cruz, which is undoubtedly the same +that Captain Carteret calls Egmont Island. + +In this last island, Mendana, with many of his companions, died; and the +shattered remains of the squadron were conducted to Manilla, by Pedro +Fernandes de Quiros, the chief pilot. + +1605 Quiros. + +This same Quiros was the first sent out, with the sole view of discovering +a southern continent, and, indeed, he seems to have been the first who had +any idea of the existence of one. + +He sailed from Callao the 21st of December, 1605, as pilot of the fleet, +commanded by Luis Paz de Torres, consisting of two ships and a tender; and +steering to the W.S.W., on the 26th of January, 1606. being then, by their +reckoning, a thousand Spanish leagues from the coast of America, they +discovered a small low island in latitude 26° S. Two days after, they +discovered another that was high, with a plain on the top. This is probably +the same that Captain Carteret calls Pitcairn's Island. + +After leaving these islands, Quiros seems to have directed his course to +W.N.W. and N.W. to 10° or 11° S. latitude, and then westward, till he +arrived at the Bay of St Philip and Jago, in the Island of Tierra del +Espirito Santo. In this route be discovered several islands; probably some +of those that have been seen by later navigators. + +On leaving the bay of St Philip and St Jago, the two ships were separated. +Quiros, with the Capitana, stood to the north, and returned to New Spain, +after having suffered greatly for want of provisions and water. Torres, +with the Almiranta and the tender, steered to the west, and seems to have +been the first who sailed between New Holland and New Guinea. + +1615. Le Maire and Schouten + +The next attempt to make discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, was +conducted by Le Maire and Schouten. They sailed from the Texel, on the 14th +of June, 1615, with the ships Concord and Horn. The latter was burnt by +accident in Port Desire. With the other they discovered the straits that +bear the name of Le Maire, and were the first who ever entered the Pacific +Ocean, by the way of Cape Horn. + +They discovered the island of Dogs, in latitude 15° 15' S., longitude 136° +30' W.; Sondre Grondt in 15° S. latitude, and 143° 10' W. longitude; +Waterland in 14° 46' S., and 144° 10' W.; and twenty-five leagues westward +of this, Fly Island, in latitude 15° 20'; Traitor's and Coco's Islands, in +latitude 15° 43' S., longitude 173° 13' W.; two degrees more to the +westward, the isle of Hope; and in the latitude of 14° 56' S., longitude +179° 30' E., Horn Island. + +They next coasted the north side of New Britain and New Guinea, and arrived +at Batavia in October, 1616. + +1642 Tasman. + +Except some discoveries on the western and northern coasts of New Holland, +no important voyage to the Pacific Ocean was undertaken till 1642, when +Captain Tasman sailed from Batavia, with two ships belonging to the Dutch +East India Company, and discovered Van Diemen's Land; a small part of the +western coast of New Zealand; the Friendly Isles; and those called Prince +William's. + +1594 Sir Richard Hawkins. + +Thus far I have thought it best not to interrupt the progress of discovery +in the South Pacific Ocean, otherwise I should before have mentioned, that +Sir Richard Hawkins in 1594, being about fifty leagues to the eastward of +the river Plate, was driven by a storm to the eastward of his intended +course, and when the weather grew moderate, steering towards the Straits of +Magalhaens, he unexpectedly fell in with land, about sixty leagues of which +he coasted, and has very particularly described. This he named Hawkins's +Maiden Land, in honour of his royal mistress, Queen Elizabeth, and says it +lies some threescore leagues from the nearest part of South America. + +1689 Strong. + +This land was afterwards discovered to be two large islands, by Captain +John Strong, of the Farewell, from London, who, in 1689, passed through the +strait which divides the eastern from the western of those islands. To this +strait he gave the name of Falkland's Sound, in honour of his patron Lord +Falkland; and the name has since been extended, through inadvertency, to +the two islands it separates. + +Having mentioned these islands, I will add, that future navigators will +mis-spend their time, if they look for Pepy's Island in 47° S.; it being +now certain, that Pepy's Island is no other than these islands of +Falkland. + +1675 La Roche. + +In April, 1675, Anthony la Roche, an English merchant, in his return from +the South Pacific Ocean, where he had been on a trading voyage, being +carried by the winds and currents, far to the east of Strait Le Maire, fell +in with a coast, which may possibly be the same with that which I visited +during this voyage, and have called the Island of Georgia. + +Leaving this land, and sailing to the north, La Roche, in the latitude of +45° S., discovered a large island, with a good port towards the eastern +part, where he found wood, water, and fish. + +1699 Halley. + +In 1699, that celebrated astronomer, Dr Edmund Halley, was appointed to the +command of his majesty's ship the Paramour Pink, on an expedition for +improving the knowledge of the longitude, and of the variation of the +compass; and for discovering the unknown lands supposed to lie in the +southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. In this voyage he determined the +longitude of several places; and, after his return, constructed his +variation-chart, and proposed a method of observing the longitude at sea, +by means of the appulses and occultations of the fixed stars. But, though +he so successfully attended to the two first articles of his instructions, +he did not find any unknown southern land. + +1721 Roggewein. + +The Dutch, in 1721, fitted out three ships to make discoveries in the South +Pacific Ocean, under the command of Admiral Roggewein. He left the Texel on +the 21st of August, and arriving in that ocean, by going round Cape Horn, +discovered Easter Island, probably seen before, though not visited, by +Davis;* then between 14° 41' and 15° 47' S. latitude, and between the +longitude of 142° and 150° W., fell in with several other islands, which I +take to be some of those seen by the late English navigators. He next +discovered two islands in latitude 15° S., longitude 170° W., which he +called Baumen's Islands; and, lastly, Single Island, in latitude 13° 41' +S., longitude 171° 30' W. These three islands are, undoubtedly, the same +that Bougainville calls the Isles of Navigators. + +[* See Waser's description of the Isthmus of Darien.] + +1738 Bouvet. + +In 1738, the French East India Company sent Lozier Bouvet with two ships, +the Eagle and Mary, to make discoveries in the South Atlantic Ocean. He +sailed from Port L'Orient on the 19th of July in that year; touched at the +island of St Catherine; and from thence shaped his course towards the +south-east. + +On the 1st of January, 1739, he discovered land, or what he judged to be +land, in latitude 54° S., longitude 11° E. It will appear in the course of +the following narrative, that we made several attempts to find this land +without success. It is, therefore, very probable, that what Bouvet saw was +nothing more than a large ice-island. From hence he stood to the east, in +51° of latitude to 35° of E. longitude: After which the two ships +separated, one going to the island of Mauritius, and the other returning to +France. + +After this voyage of Bouvet, the spirit of discovery ceased, till his +present majesty formed a design of making discoveries, and exploring the +southern hemisphere; and, in the year 1764, directed it to be put in +execution. + +1764 Byron. + +Accordingly Commodore Byron, having under his command the Dolphin and +Tamer, sailed from the Downs on the 21st of June the same year; and having +visited the Falkland Islands, passed through the Straits of Magalhaens into +the Pacific Ocean, where he discovered the islands of Disappointment, +George's, Prince of Wales's, the isles of Danger, York Island, and Byron +Island. + +1766 Wallis. + +He returned to England the 9th of May, 1766, and, in the month of August +following, the Dolphin was again sent out under the command of Captain +Wallis, with the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret. + +They proceeded together, till they came to the west end of the Straits of +Magalhaens, and the Great South Sea in sight, where they were separated. + +Captain Wallis directed his course more westerly than any navigator had +done before him in so high a latitude; but met with no land till he got +within the tropic, where he discovered the islands of Whitsunday, Queen +Charlotte, Egmont, Duke of Gloucester, Duke of Cumberland, Maitea, +Otaheite, Eimeo, Tapamanou, How, Scilly, Boscawen, Keppel, and Wallis; and +returned to England in May, 1768. + +Carteret. + +His companion Captain Carteret kept a different route, in which he +discovered the islands of Osnaburg, Gloucester, Queen Charlotte's Isles, +Carteret's, Gower's, and the strait between New Britain and New Ireland; +and returned to England in March, 1769. + +1766 Bougainville. + +In November, 1766, Commodore Bougainville sailed from France in the frigate +La Boudeuse, with the store-ship L'Etoile. After spending some time on the +coast of Brazil, and at Falkland's Islands, he got into the Pacific Sea by +the Straits of Magalhaens, in January, 1768. + +In this ocean he discovered the Four Facardines, the isle of Lanciers, and +Harp Island, which I take to be the same that I afterwards named Lagoon, +Thrum Cap, and Bow Island. About twenty leagues farther to the west he +discovered four other islands; afterwards fell in with Maitea, Otaheite, +isles of Navigators, and Forlorn Hope, which to him were new discoveries. +He then passed through between the Hebrides, discovered the Shoal of Diana, +and some others, the land of Cape Deliverance, several islands more to the +north, passed the north of New Ireland, touched at Batavia, and arrived in +France in March, 1769. + +This year was rendered remarkable by the transit of the planet Venus over +the sun's disk, a phenomenon of great importance to astronomy; and which +every-where engaged the attention of the learned in that science. + +In the beginning of the 1768, the Royal Society presented a memorial to his +majesty, setting forth the advantages to be derived from accurate +observations of this transit in different parts of the world; particularly +from a set of such observations made in a southern latitude, between the +140th and 130th degrees of longitude, west from the Royal Observatory at +Greenwich; and that vessels, properly equipped, would be necessary to +convey the observers to their destined stations; but that the society were +in no condition to defray the expence of such an undertaking. + +In consequence of this memorial, the Admiralty were directed by his majesty +to provide proper vessels for this purpose. Accordingly, the Endeavour +bark, which had been built for the coal-trade, was purchased and fitted out +for the southern voyage, and I was honoured with the command of her. The +Royal Society, soon after, appointed me, in conjunction with Mr Charles +Green the astronomer, to make the requisite observations on the transit. + +It was at first intended to perform this great, and now a principal +business of our voyage, either at the Marquesas, or else at one of those +islands which Tasman had called Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburg, now +better known under the name of the Friendly Islands. But while the +Endeavour was getting ready for the expedition, Captain Wallis returned +from his voyage round the world, in the course of which he had discovered +several islands in the South Sea; and, amongst others, Otaheite. This +island was preferred to any of those before mentioned, on account of the +conveniences it afforded; because its place had been well ascertained, and +found to be extremely well suited to our purpose. + +I was therefore ordered to proceed directly to Otaheite; and after +astronomical observations should be completed, to prosecute the design of +making discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, by proceeding to the south +as far as the latitude of 40°; then, if I found no land, to proceed to the +west between 40° and 35°, till I fell in with New Zealand, which I was to +explore; and thence to return to England by such route as I should think +proper. + +1768 Cook's first voyage. + +In the prosecution of these instructions, I sailed from Deptford the 30th +July, 1768; from Plymouth the 26th of August, touched at Madeira, Rio de +Janeiro, and Straits Le Maire, and entered the South Pacific Ocean by Cape +Horn in January the following year. + +I endeavoured to make a direct course to Otaheite, and in part succeeded; +but I made no discovery till I got within the tropic, where I fell in with +Lagoon Island, Two Groups, Bird Island, Chain Island; and on the 13th of +April arrived at Otaheite, where I remained three months, during which time +the observations on the transit were made. + +I then left it; discovered and visited the Society Isles and Oheteroa; +thence proceeded to the south till I arrived in the latitude of 40° 22', +longitude 147° 29' W.; and, on the 6th of October, fell in with the east +side of New Zealand. + +I continued exploring the coast of this country till the 31st of March, +1770, when I quitted it, and proceeded to New Holland; and having surveyed +the eastern coast of that vast country, which part had not before been +visited, I passed between its northern extremity and New Guinea, landed on +the latter, touched at the island of Savu, Batavia, the Cape of Good Hope, +and St Helena,* and arrived in England on the 12th of July, 1771. + +[* In the account given of St Helena in the narrative of my former voyage, +I find two mistakes. Its inhabitants are far from exercising a wanton +cruelty over their slaves, and they have had wheel-carriages and +porters' knots for many years.] + +In this voyage I was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander; the first a +gentleman of ample fortune; the other an accomplished disciple of Linnĉus, +and one of the librarians of the British Museum; both of them distinguished +in the learned world, for their extensive and accurate knowledge of natural +history. These gentlemen, animated by the love of science, and by a desire +to pursue their enquiries in the remote regions I was preparing to visit, +desired permission to make a voyage with me. The Admiralty readily complied +with a request that promised such advantage to the republic of letters. +They accordingly embarked with me, and participated in all the dangers and +sufferings of our tedious and fatiguing navigation. + +The voyages of Messrs de Surville, Kerguelen, and Marion, of which some +account is given in the following work, did not come to my knowledge time +enough to afford me any advantage; and as they have not been communicated +to the world in a public way, I can say little about them, or about two +other voyages, which, I am told, have been made by the Spaniards; one to +Easter Island in the year 1769, and the other to Otaheite in 1775. + +Before I begin my narrative of the expedition entrusted to my care, it will +be necessary to add here some account of its equipment, and of some other +matters equally interesting, connected with my subject. + +Soon after my return home in the Endeavour, it was resolved to equip two +ships, to complete the discovery of the Southern Hemisphere. The nature of +this voyage required ships of a particular construction, and the Endeavour +being gone to Falkland's Isles as a store-ship, the Navy-board was directed +to purchase two such ships as were most suitable for this service. + +At this time various opinions were espoused by different people, touching +the size and kind of vessels most proper for such a voyage. Some were for +having large ships, and proposed those of forty guns, or East India +Company's ships. Others preferred large good sailing frigates, or three- +decked ships, employed in the Jamaica trade, fitted with round-houses. But +of all that was said and offered to the Admiralty's consideration on this +subject, as far as has come to my knowledge, what, in my opinion, was most +to the purpose, was suggested by the Navy-board. + +As the kind of ships most proper to be employed on discoveries, is a very +interesting consideration to the adventurers in such undertakings, it may +possibly be of use to those, who, in future, may be so employed, to give +here the purport of the sentiments of the Navy-board thereon, with whom, +after the experience of two voyages of three years each, I perfectly agree. + +The success of such undertakings as making discoveries in distant parts of +the world, will principally depend on the preparations being well adapted +to what ought to be the first considerations, namely, the preservation of +the adventurers and ships; and this will ever chiefly depend on the kind, +the size, and the properties of the ships chosen for the service. + +These primary considerations will not admit of any other that may interfere +with the necessary properties of the ships. Therefore, in choosing the +ships, should any of the most advantageous properties be wanting, and the +necessary room in them, be in any degree diminished, for less important +purposes, such a step would be laying a foundation for rendering the +undertaking abortive in the first instance. + +As the greatest danger to be apprehended and provided against, on a voyage +of discovery, especially to the most distant parts of the globe, is that of +the ship's being liable to be run a-ground on an unknown, desert, or +perhaps savage coast; so no consideration should be set in competition with +that of her being of a construction of the safest kind, in which the +officers may, with the least hazard, venture upon a strange coast. A ship +of this kind must not be of a great draught of water, yet of a sufficient +burden and capacity to carry a proper quantity of provisions and +necessaries for her complement of men, and for the time requisite to +perform the voyage. + +She must also be of a construction that will bear to take the ground; and +of a size, which in case of necessity, may be safely and conveniently laid +on shore, to repair any accidental damage or defect. These properties are +not to be found in ships of war of forty guns, nor in frigates, nor in East +India Company's ships, nor in large three-decked West India ships, nor +indeed in any other but North-country-built ships, or such as are built for +the coal-trade, which are peculiarly adapted to this purpose. + +In such a vessel an able sea-officer will be most venturesome, and better +enabled to fulfil his instructions, than he possibly can (or indeed than +would be prudent for him to attempt) in one of any other _sort_ or _size_. + +Upon the whole, I am firmly of opinion, that no ships are so proper for +discoveries in distant unknown parts, as those constructed as was the +Endeavour, in which I performed my former voyage. For no ships of any other +kind can contain stores and provisions sufficient (in proportion to the +necessary number of men,) considering the length of time it will be +necessary they should last. And, even if another kind of ships could stow a +sufficiency, yet on arriving at the parts for discovery, they would still, +from the nature of their construction and size, be _less fit_ for the +purpose. + +Hence, it may be concluded, so little progress had been hitherto made in +discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere. For all ships which attempted it +before the Endeavour, were unfit for it; although the officers employed in +them had done the utmost in their power. + +It was upon this consideration that the Endeavour was chosen for that +voyage. It was to those properties in her that those on board owed their +preservation; and hence we were enabled to prosecute discoveries in those +seas so much longer than any other ship ever did, or could do. And, +although discovery was not the first object of that voyage, I could venture +to traverse a far greater space of sea, til then unnavigated; to discover +greater tracts of country in high and low south latitudes, and to persevere +longer in exploring and surveying more correctly the extensive coasts of +those new-discovered countries, than any former navigator perhaps had done +during one voyage. + +In short, these properties in the ships, with perseverance and resolution +in their commanders, will enable them to execute their orders; to go beyond +former discoverers; and continue to Britain the reputation of taking the +lead of nations, in exploring the globe. + +These considerations concurring with Lord Sandwich's opinion on the same +subject, the Admiralty determined to have two such ships as are here +recommended. Accordingly two were purchased of Captain William Hammond of +Hull. They were both built at Whitby, by the same person who built the +Endeavour, being about fourteen or sixteen months old at the time they were +purchased, and were, in my opinion, as well adapted to the intended +service, as if they had been built for the purpose. The largest of the two +was four hundred and sixty-two tons burden. She was named Resolution, and +sent to Deptford to be equipped. The other was three hundred and thirty-six +tons burden. She was named Adventure, and sent to be equipped at Woolwich. + +It was at first proposed to sheathe them with copper; but on considering +that copper corrodes the iron-work, especially about the rudder, this +intention was laid aside, and the old method of sheathing and fitting +pursued, as being the most secure; for although it is usual to make the +rudder-bands of the same composition, it is not, however, so durable as +iron, nor would it, I am well assured, last out such a voyage as the +Resolution performed. + +Therefore, till a remedy is found to prevent the effect of copper upon +iron-work, it would not be advisable to use it on a voyage of this kind, +as, the principal fastenings of the ship being iron, they may be destroyed. + +On the 28th of November, 1771, I was appointed to the command of the +Resolution; and Tobias Furneaux (who had been second lieutenant with +Captain Wallis) was promoted, on this occasion, to the command of the +Adventure. + +_Our Complements of Officers and Men were fixed, as in the following +Table._ + +RESOLUTION + +_Officers and Men, Officers Names_ + +Captain (1) James Cook. +Lieutenants (3) Rob. P. Cooper, Charles Clerke, Richd. Pickersgill. + +Master (1) Joseph Gilbert. +Boatswain (1) James Gray. +Carpenter (1) James Wallis. +Gunner (1) Robert Anderson. +Surgeon (1) James Patten. +Master's mates (3) +Midshipmen (6) +Surgeon's mates (2) +Captain's clerk (1) +Master at arms (1) +Corporal (1) +Armourer (1) +Ditto mate (1) +Sail-maker (1) +Boatswain's mate (3) +Carpenter's ditto (3) +Gunner's ditto (2) +Carpenter's crews (4) +Cook (1) +Ditto mate (1) +Quarter-masters (6) +Able seamen (45) + +Marines +Lieutenant (1) John Edgecumbe. +Serjeant (1) +Corporals (2) +Drummer (1) +Privates (15) + +Total, 112 + +ADVENTURE + +_Officers and Men, Officers Names_ + +Captain (1) Tobias Furneaux. +Lieutenants (3) Joseph Shank, Arthur Kempe. + +Master (1) Peter Fannin. +Boatswain (1) Edward Johns. +Carpenter (1) William Offord. +Gunner (1) Andrew Gloag. +Surgeon (1) Thos. Andrews. +Master's mate (2) +Midshipmen (4) +Surgeon's mates (2) +Captain's clerk (1) +Master at arms (1) +Ditto Mate (1) +Sail-maker (1) +Ditto Mate (1) +Boatswain's mate (1) +Carpenter's ditto (2) +Gunner's ditto (2) +Carpenter's crews (1) +Cook (4) +Ditto mate (1) +Quarter-masters (4) +Able seamen (33) + +Marines +Lieutenant (1) James Scott. +Serjeant (1) +Corporals (1) +Drummer (1) +Privates (8) + +Total, 81 + +I had all the reason in the world to be perfectly satisfied with the choice +of the officers. The second and third lieutenants, the lieutenant of +marines, two of the warrant officers, and several of the petty officers, +had been with me during the former voyage. The others were men of known +abilities; and all of them, on every occasion, shewed their zeal for the +service in which they were employed, during the whole voyage. + +In the equipping of these ships, they were not confined to ordinary +establishments, but were fitted in the most complete manner, and supplied +with every extra article that was suggested to be necessary. + +Lord Sandwich paid an extraordinary attention to this equipment, by +visiting the ships from time to time, to satisfy himself that the whole was +completed to his wish, and to the satisfaction of those who were to embark +in them. + +Nor were the Navy and Victualling Boards wanting in providing them with the +very best of stores and provisions, and whatever else was necessary for so +long a voyage.--Some alterations were adopted in the species of provisions +usually made use of in the navy. That is, we were supplied with wheat in +lieu of so much oatmeal, and sugar in lieu of so much oil; and when +completed, each ship had two years and a half provisions on board, of all +species. + +We had besides many extra articles, such as _malt, sour krout, salted +cabbage, portable broth, saloup, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and +inspissated juice of wort and beer_. Some of these articles had before +been found to be highly antiscorbutic; and others were now sent out on +trial, or by way of experiment;--the inspissated juice of beer and wort, +and marmalade of carrots especially. As several of these antiscorbutic +articles are not generally known, a more particular account of them may not +be amiss. + +Of _malt_ is made _sweet wort_, which is given to such persons as +have got the scurvy, or whose habit of body threatens them with it, from +one to five or six pints a-day, as the surgeon sees necessary. + +_Sour krout_ is cabbage cut small, to which is put a little salt, +juniper berries, and anniseeds; it is then fermented, and afterwards close +packed in casks; in which state it will keep good a long time. This is a +wholesome vegetable food, and a great antiscorbutic. The allowance to each +man is two pounds a week, but I increased or diminished their allowance as +I thought proper. + +_Salted cabbage_ is cabbage cut to pieces, and salted down in casks, +which will preserve it a long time. + +_Portable broth_ is so well known, that it needs no description. We +were supplied with it both for the sick and well, and it was exceedingly +beneficial. + +_Saloup_ and _rob of lemons_ and _oranges_ were for the sick +and scorbutic only, and wholly under the surgeon's care. + +_Marmalade of carrots_ is the juice of yellow carrots, inspissated +till it is of the thickness of fluid honey, or treacle, which last it +resembles both in taste and colour. It was recommended by Baron Storsch, of +Berlin, as a very great antiscorbutic; but we did not find that it had much +of this quality. + +For the _inspissated juice of wort_ and _beer_ we were indebted +to Mr Pelham, secretary to the commissioners of the victualling office. +This gentleman, some years ago, considered that if the juice of malt, +either as beer or wort, was inspissated by evaporation, it was probable +this inspissated juice would keep good at sea; and, if so, a supply of beer +might be had, at any time, by mixing it with water. Mr Pelham made several +experiments, which succeeded so well, that the commissioners caused thirty- +one half barrels of this juice to be prepared, and sent out with our ships +for trial; nineteen on board the Resolution, and the remainder on board the +Adventure. The success of the experiments will be mentioned in the +narrative, in the order as they were made. + +The frame of a small vessel, twenty tons burthen, was properly prepared, +and put on board each of the ships to be set up (if found necessary) to +serve as tenders upon any emergency, or to transport the crew, in case the +ship was lost. + +We were also well provided with fishing-nets, lines, and hooks of every +kind for catching of fish.--And, in order to enable us to procure +refreshments, in such inhabited parts of the world as we might touch at, +where money was of no value, the Admiralty caused to be put on board both +the ships, several articles of merchandize; as well to trade with the +natives for provisions, as to make them presents to gain their friendship +and esteem. + +Their lordships also caused a number of medals to be struck, the one side +representing his majesty, and the other the two ships. These medals were to +be given to the natives of new-discovered countries, and left there as +testimonies of our being the first discoverers. + +Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was put on board; to +be given to the seamen whenever it was thought necessary. In short, nothing +was wanting that could tend to promote the success of the undertaking, or +contribute to the conveniences and health of those who embarked in it. + +The Admiralty shewed no less attention to science in general, by engaging +Mr William Hodges, a landscape painter, to embark in this voyage, in order +to make drawings and paintings of such places in the countries we should +touch at, as might be proper to give a more perfect, idea thereof, than +could be formed from written descriptions only. + +And it being thought of public utility, that some person skilled in natural +history, should be engaged to accompany me in this voyage, the parliament +granted an ample sum for the purpose, and Mr John Reinhold Forster, with +his son, were pitched upon for this employment. + +The Board of Longitude agreed with Mr William Wales and Mr William Bayley, +to make astronomical observations; the former on board the Resolution, and +the latter on board the Adventure. The great improvements which astronomy +and navigation have met with from the many interesting observations they +have made, would have done honour to any person whose reputation for +mathematical knowledge was not so well known as theirs. + +The same Board furnished them with the best instruments, for making both +astronomical and nautical observations and experiments; and likewise with +four time-pieces, or watch machines; three made by Mr Arnold, and one made +by Mr Kendal on Mr Harrison's principles. A particular account of the going +of these watches, as also the astronomical and nautical observations made +by the astronomers, has been before the public, by order of the Board of +Longitude, under the inspection of Mr Wales. + +Besides the obligation I was under to this gentleman for communicating to +me the observations he made, from time to time, during the voyage, I have +since been indebted to him for the perusal of his journal, with leave to +take from it whatever I thought might contribute to the improvement of this +work. + +For the convenience of the generality of readers, I have reduced the time +from the nautical to the civil computation, so that whenever the terms A.M. +and P.M. are used, the former signifies the forenoon, and the latter the +afternoon of the same day. + +In all the courses, bearings, &c., the variation of the compass is allowed, +unless the contrary is expressed. And now it may be necessary to say, that, +as I am on the point of sailing on a third expedition, I leave this account +of my last voyage in the hands of some friends, who, in my absence, have +kindly accepted the office of correcting the press for me; who are pleased +to think that what I have here to relate is better to be given in my own +words, than in the words of another person; especially as it is a work +designed for information, and not merely for amusement; in which, it is +their opinion, that candour and fidelity will counter-balance the want of +ornament. + +I shall therefore conclude this introductory discourse with desiring the +reader to excuse the inaccuracies of style, which doubtless he will +frequently meet with in the following narrative; and that, when such occur, +he will recollect that it is the production of a man, who has not had the +advantage of much school education, but who has been constantly at sea from +his youth; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, he has +passed through all the stations belonging to a seaman, from an apprentice +boy in the coal trade, to a post-captain in the royal navy, he has had no +opportunity of cultivating letters. After this account of myself, the +public must not expect from me the elegance of a fine writer, or the +plausibility of a professed book-maker; but will, I hope, consider me as a +plain man, zealously exerting himself in the service of his country, and +determined to give the best account he is able of his proceedings. + +JAMES COOK. + +_Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776._ + +****************** + +LIST OF THE PLATES + +With directions for placing them. + +[As the Plates, for the sake of expedition, were printed off as fast as +they were finished, it was necessary to number them, before any +consideration could be had of the proper arrangement. They are to be placed +in the following order.] + +V0L. I. + +Print of Captain Cook. +Chart of the Southern Hernifphere, showing Captain Cook's tracks, and + those of some of the most distinguished navigators. +Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verds. +View of the Ice-Islands. +New Zealand spruce. +Family in Dusky-Bay, New Zealand. +Sketch of Dusky Bay, New Zealand. +Flax plant of New Zealand. +Poi Bird of New Zealand. +Tea Plant of New Zealand. +Van Diemen's Land. +Otoo King of Otaheite. +Plant used at Otaheite to catch fish by intoxicating them. +Potatow, Chief of Attahourou, in Otaheite. +Omai, who was brought to England by Captain Furneaux. +View of Otaheite Island. +A Tupapow with a corpse. +Chart of the Friendly Isles. +View of the landing at Middleburg. +Otago, or Attago, a chief at Amsterdam. +Asiatouca, a temple or burying-place at Amsterdam. +Draught, plan, and section of an Amsterdam canoe. +Ornaments, utensils, and weapons at the Friendly Isles. +Speeimens of New Zealand workmanfhip, &c. +Eafter Island. +Man at Easter Island. +Woman at Easter Island. +Monuments in Easter Island. +Sketch of the Marquesas. +View of Resolution Bay, at St. Christina. +Woman at St. Christina. +Chief at St. Christina. +Ornaments and weapons at the Marquesas. +Fleet of Otaheite assembled at Oparee. +Draught, plan, and section of the Britannia, a war canoe at Otaheite. +Tynai-mai, a young woman of Ulietea. +Oedidee, a young man of Bolabola. + +V0L. II. + +Sketches of four islands--Hervey--Palmerflon--Savage--S.-Turtle. +View in the Island of Rotterdam. +Boats of the Friendly Isles. +Chart of Captain Cook's discoveries made in the South Pacific Ocean. +View of the landing at Mallicollo. +Man of Mallicollo. +Sketches, of Port Sandwich in Mallicollo, of Port Resolution in Tanna, + and of the harbour of Balade in New Caledonia. +View of the landing at Erromango. +View of the landing at Tanna. +View in Tanna. +Man of Tanna. +Woman of Tanna. +Weapons, &c. at Mallicollo and Tanna. +View in New Caledonia. +Man of New Caledonia. +Woman of New Caledonia. +Ornaments, weapons, &c. at New Caledonia +View in the Island of Pines. +Norfolk Isle. +Man of New Zealand. +Woman of New Zealand. +Chart of Christmas Sound. +Man of Christmas Sound. +View of Christmas Sound. +Chart of the southern extremity of America. +Chart of Captain Cook's discoveries in the South Atlantic. +View of Possession Bay in South Georgia. + +* * * + +Five of the Plates, consisting of various Articles; the following +Explanation of them is subjoined. + +Ornaments and weapons at the Marquesas, thus marked. +1. A gorget ornamented with red pease. +2. An ornament for the head. +3. A club. +4. A Head-dress. +5. A fan. + +Weapons, &c. at Mallicollo and Tanna. +1. A bow. +2. Stones worn in the nose. +3. Musical reeds, a Syrinx. +4. A club. +5. The point of an arrow. +6. The arrow entire. + +Specimens of New Zealand workmanship, &c. +1 and 2. Different views of an adze. +3. A saw. +4. A shell. + +Ornaments, weapons, &c. at New Caledonia. +1. A lance. +2. The ornamented part, on a larger scale. +3. A cap ornamented with feathers, and girt with a sligg. +4. A comb. +5. A becket, or piece of cord made of cocoa-nut bark, used in throwing +their lances. +6 and 7. Different clubs. +8. A pick-axe used in cultivating the ground. +9. An adze. + +Ornaments, utensils, and weapons at the Friendly Isles. +1. A bow and arrow. +2. A frontlet of red feathers. +3. 6 Baskets. +4. A comb. +5. A musical instrument, composed of reeds. +7. A club. +8. The end of a lance; the point of which is wood hardened in the fire. +9. The aforesaid lance entire. + +***************** + +VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD. + +BOOK I + +FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND TO LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLES +THE FIRST TIME. + +CHAPTER I. + +_Passage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an Account of +several Incidents that happened by the Way, and Transactions there._ + +1772 April + +I sailed from Deptford, April 9th, 1772, but got no farther than Woolwich, +where I was detained by easterly winds till the 23d, when the ship fell +down to Long Reach, and the next day was joined by the Adventure. Here both +ships received on board their powder, guns, gunners' stores, and marines. + +1772 May + +On the 10th of May we left Long Reach, with orders to touch at Plymouth; +but in plying down the river, the Resolution was found to be very crank, +which made it necessary to put into Sheerness in order to remove this evil, +by making some alteration in her upper works. These the officers of the +yard were ordered to take in hand immediately; and Lord Sandwich and Sir +Hugh Palliser came down to see them executed in such a manner as might +effectually answer the purpose intended. + +1772 June + +On the 22d of June the ship was again completed for sea, when I sailed from +Sheerness; and on the 3d of July joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. +The evening before, we met, off the Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the Augusta +yacht, (who was on his return from visiting the several dock-yards,) with +the Glory frigate and Hazard sloop. We saluted his lordship with seventeen +guns; and soon after he and Sir Hugh Palliser gave us the last mark of the +very great attention they had paid to this equipment, by coming on board, +to satisfy themselves that every thing was done to my wish, and that the +ship was found to answer to my satisfaction. + +At Plymouth I received my instructions, dated the 25th of June, directing +me to take under my command the Adventure; to make the best of my way to +the island of Madeira, there to take in a supply of wine, and then proceed +to the Cape of Good Hope, where I was to refresh the ships' companies, and +to take on board such provisions and necessaries as I might stand in need +of. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, I was to proceed to the southward, +and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcision, which was said by Monsieur +Bouvet to lie in the latitude of 54° S. and in about 11° 20' E. longitude +from Greenwich. If I discovered this cape, I was to satisfy myself whether +it was a part of the continent which had so much engaged the attention of +geographers and former navigators, or a part of an island. If it proved to +be the former, I was to employ myself diligently in exploring as great an +extent of it as I could, and to make such notations thereon, and +observations of every kind, as might be useful either to navigation or +commerce, or tend to the promotion of natural knowledge. I was also +directed to observe the genius, temper, disposition, and number of the +inhabitants, if there were any, and endeavour, by all proper means, to +cultivate a friendship and alliance with them; making them presents of such +things as they might value; inviting them to traffic, and shewing them +every kind of civility and regard. I was to continue to employ myself on +this service, and making discoveries either to the eastward or westward, as +my situation might render most eligible; keeping in as high a latitude as I +could, and prosecuting my discoveries as near to the South Pole as +possible, so long as the condition of the ships, the health of their crews, +and the state of their provisions, would admit of; taking care to reserve +as much of the latter as would enable me to reach some known port, where I +was to procure a sufficiency to bring me home to England. But if Cape +Circumcision should prove to be part of an island only, or if I should not +be able to find the said Cape, I was in the first case to make the +necessary survey of the island, and then to stand on to the southward, so +long as I judged there was a likelihood of falling in with the continent, +which I was also to do in the latter case, and then to proceed to the +eastward in further search of the said continent, as well as to make +discoveries of such islands as might be situated in that unexplored part of +the southern hemisphere; keeping in high latitudes, and prosecuting my +discoveries, as above mentioned, as near the pole as possible until I had +circumnavigated the globe; after which I was to proceed to the Cape of Good +Hope, and from thence to Spithead. + +In the prosecution of these discoveries, wherever the season of the year +rendered it unsafe for me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire to +some known place to the northward, to refresh my people, and refit the +ships; and to return again to the southward as soon as the season of the +year would admit of it. In all unforeseen cases, I was authorised to +proceed according to my own discretion; and in case the Resolution should +be lost or disabled, I was to prosecute the voyage on board the Adventure. + +I gave a copy of these instructions to Captain Furneaux, with an order +directing him to carry them into execution; and, in case he was separated +from me, appointed the island of Madeira for the first place of rendezvous; +Port Praya in the island of St Jago for the second; Cape of Good Hope for +the third; and New Zealand for the fourth. + +During our stay at Plymouth, Messrs Wales and Bayley, the two astronomers, +made observations on Drake's Island, in order to ascertain the latitude, +longitude, and true time for putting the time-pieces and watches in motion. +The latitude was found to be 50° 21' 30" N., and the longitude 4° 20' W. of +Greenwich, which, in this voyage, is every where to be understood as the +first meridian, and from which the longitude is reckoned east and west to +180° each way. + +1772 July + +On the 10th of July the watches were set a-going in the +presence of the two astronomers, Captain Furneaux, the first lieutenants of +the ships, and myself, and put on board. The two on board the Adventure +were made by Mr Arnold, and also one of those on board the Resolution; but +the other was made by Mr Kendal, upon the same principle, in every respect, +as Mr Harrison's time-piece. The commander, first lieutenant, and +astronomer, on board each, of the ships, kept each of them keys of the +boxes which contained the watches, and were always to be present at the +winding them up, and comparing the one with the other; or some other +officer, if at any time, through indisposition, or absence upon any other +necessary duties, any of them could not conveniently attend. The same day, +according to the custom of the navy, the companies of both ships were paid +two months wages in advance, and, as a further encouragement for their +going this extraordinary voyage, they were also paid the wages due to them +to the 28th of the preceding May. This enabled them to provide necessaries +for the voyage. + +On the 13th, at six o'clock in the morning, I sailed from Plymouth Sound, +with the Adventure in company; and on the evening of the 29th anchored in +Funchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. The next morning I saluted the +garrison with eleven guns; which compliment was immediately returned. Soon +after I went on shore, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, the two Mr +Forsters, and Mr Wales. At our landing, we were received by a gentleman +from the vice-consul, Mr Sills, who conducted us to the house of Mr +Loughnans, the most considerable English merchant in the place. This +gentleman not only obtained leave for Mr Forster to search the island for +plants, but procured us every other thing we wanted, and insisted on our +accommodating ourselves at his house during our stay. + +The town of Funchiale, which is the capital of the island, is situated +about the middle of the south side, in the bottom of the bay of the same +name, in latitude 32° 33' 34" N., longitude 17° 12-7/8" W. The longitude +was deduced from lunar observations made by Mr Wales, and reduced to the +town by Mr Kendal's watch, which made the longitude 17° 10' 14" W. During +our stay here, the crews of both ships were supplied with fresh beef and +onions; and a quantity of the latter was distributed amongst them for a +sea-store. + +1772 August + +Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, we left +Madeira on the 1st of August, and stood to the southward with a fine gale +at N.E. On the 4th we passed Palma, one of the Canary isles. It is of a +height to be seen twelve or fourteen leagues, and lies in the latitude 28° +38' N., longitude 17° 58' W. The next day we saw the isle of Ferro, and +passed it at the distance of fourteen leagues. I judged it to lie in the +latitude of 27° 42' N. and longitude 18° 9' W. + +I now made three puncheons of beer of the inspissated juice of malt. The +proportion I made use of was about ten of water to one of juice. Fifteen of +the nineteen half barrels of the inspissated juice which we had on board, +were produced from wort that was hopped before inspissated. The other four +were made of beer that had been both hopped and fermented before +inspissated. This last requires no other preparation to make it fit for +use, than to mix it with cold water, from one part in eight to one part in +twelve of water, (or in such other proportion as might be liked,) then stop +it down, and in a few days it will be brisk and drinkable. But the other +sort, after being mixed with water in the same manner, will require to be +fermented with yeast, in the usual way of making beer; at least it was so +thought. However, experience taught us that this will not always be +necessary: For by the heat of the weather, and the agitation of the ship, +both sorts were at this time in the highest state of fermentation, and had +hitherto evaded all our endeavours to stop it. If this juice could be kept +from fermenting, it certainly would be a most valuable article at sea. + +On finding that our stock of water would not last as to the Cape of Good +Hope, without putting the people to a scanty allowance, I resolved to stop +at St Jago for a supply. On the 9th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we +made the island of Bonavista, bearing S.W. The next day, we passed the isle +of Mayo on our right; and the same evening anchored in Port Praya in the +island of St Jago, in eighteen fathom water. The east point of the bay bore +E.; the west point S.W. 1/2 S.; and the fort N.W. I immediately dispatched +an officer to ask leave to water, and purchase refreshments, which was +granted. On the return of the officer, I saluted the fort with eleven guns, +on a promise of its being returned with an equal number. But by a mistake, +as they pretended, the salute was returned with only nine; for which the +governor made an excuse the next day. The 14th, in the evening, having +completed our water, and got on board a supply of refreshments, such as +hogs, goats, fowls, and fruit, we put to sea, and proceeded on our voyage. + +Port Praya is a small bay, situated about the middle of the south side of +the island of St Jago, in the latitude of 14° 53' 30" N. longitude 23° 30' +W. It may be known, especially in coming from the east, by the southernmost +hill on the island, which is round, and peaked at top; and lies a little +way inland, in the direction of west from the port. This mark is the more +necessary, as there is a small cove about a league to the eastward, with a +sandy beach in the bottom of it, a valley, and cocoa-nut trees behind, +which strangers may mistake for Port Praya, as we ourselves did. The two +points which form the entrance of Port Praya Bay are rather low, and in the +direction of W.S.W. and E.N.E. half a league from each other. Close to the +west point are sunken rocks, on which the sea continually breaks. The bay +lies in N.W. near half a league; and the depth of water is from fourteen to +four fathoms. Large ships ought not to anchor in less than eight, in which +depth the south end of the Green Island (a small island lying under the +west shore) will bear W. You water at a well that is behind the beach at +the head of the bay. The water is tolerable, but scarce; and bad getting +off, on account of a great surf on the beach. The refreshments to be got +here, are bullocks, hogs, goats, sheep, poultry, and fruits. The goats are +of the antelope kind, so extraordinarily lean, that hardly any thing can +equal them; and the bullocks, hogs, and sheep, are not much better. +Bullocks must be purchased with money; the price is twelve Spanish dollars +a-head, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds. Other articles may be got from +the natives in exchange for old clothes, &c. But the sale of bullocks is +confined to a company of merchants; to whom this privilege is granted, and +who keep an agent residing upon the spot. The fort above mentioned seems +wholly designed for the protection of the bay, and is well situated for +that purpose, being built on an elevation, which rises directly from the +sea on the right, at the head of the bay. + +We had no sooner got clear of Port Praya, than we got a fresh gale at +N.N.E. which blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain. But the next +day the wind and showers abated, and veered to the S. It was, however, +variable and unsettled for several days, accompanied with dark gloomy +weather, and showers of rain. + +On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard, +and was drowned. He was over the side, fitting in one of the scuttles, from +whence it is supposed he had fallen; for he was not seen till the very +instant he sunk under the ship's stern, when our endeavours to save him +were too late. This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was a +sober man and a good workman. About noon the next day, the rain poured down +upon us, not in drops but in streams. The wind, at the same time, was +variable and squally, which obliged the people to attend the decks, so that +few in the ships escaped a good soaking. We, however, benefited by it, as +it gave us an opportunity of filling all our empty water-casks. This heavy +rain at last brought on a dead calm, which continued twenty-four hours, +when it was succeeded by a breeze from S.W. Betwixt this point and S. it +continued for several days; and blew at times in squalls, attended with +rain and hot sultry weather. The mercury in the thermometers at noon, kept +generally from 79 to 82. + +On the 27th, spoke with Captain Furneaux, who informed us that one of his +petty officers was dead. At this time _we_ had not one sick on board, +although we had every thing of this kind to fear from the rain we had had, +which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. To prevent this, and +agreeable to some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser and from Captain +Campbell, I took every necessary precaution by airing and drying the ship +with fires made betwixt decks, smoaking, &c. and by obliging the people to +air their bedding, wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was an +opportunity. A neglect of these things causeth a disagreeable smell below, +affects the air, and seldom fails to bring on sickness, but more especially +in hot and wet weather. + +We now began to see some of those birds which are said never to fly far +from land; that is, man-of-war and tropic birds, gannets, &c. No land, +however, that we knew of, could be nearer than eighty leagues. + +On the 30th at noon, being in the latitude of 2° 35' N., longitude 7° 30' +W., and the wind having veered to the east of south, we tacked and +stretched to the S.W. In the latitude of 0° 52' N., longitude 9° 25' W., we +had one calm day, which gave us an opportunity of trying the current in a +boat. We found it set to the north one-third of a mile an hour. We had +reason to expect this from the difference we frequently found between the +observed latitude, and that given by the log; and Mr Kendal's watch shewed +us that it set to the east also. This was fully confirmed by the lunar +observations; when it appeared that we were 3° 0' more to the east than the +common reckoning. At the time of trying the current, the mercury in the +thermometer in the open air stood at 75-1/2; and when immerged in the +surface of the sea, at 74; but when immerged eighty fathoms deep (where it +remained fifteen minutes) when it came up, the mercury stood at 66. At +the same time we sounded, without out finding the bottom, with a line of +two hundred and fifty fathoms. + +The calm was succeeded by a light breeze at S.W., which kept veering by +little and little to the south, and at last to the eastward of south, +attended with clear serene weather. + +1772 September + +At length, on the 8th of September, we crossed the Line in the longitude +of 8° W.; after which, the ceremony of ducking, &c., generally practised +on this occasion, was not omitted. + +The wind now veering more and more to the east, and blowing a gentle top- +gallant gale, in eight days it carried us into the latitude 9° 30' S., +longitude 18° W. The weather was pleasant; and we daily saw some of those +birds which are looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land; such as +boobies, man of war, tropic birds, and gannets. We supposed they came from +the isle of St Matthew, or Ascension; which isles we must have passed at no +great distance. + +On the 27th, in the latitude of 25° 29', longitude 24° 54', we discovered a +sail to the west standing after us. She was a snow; and the colours she +shewed, either a Portuguese or St George's ensign, the distance being too +great to distinguish the one from the other, and I did not choose to wait +to get nearer, or to speak with her. + +The wind now began to be variable. It first veered to the north, where it +remained two days with fair weather. Afterwards it came round by the west +to the south, where it remained two days longer, and, after a few hours +calm, sprung up at S.W. But here it remained not long, before it veered to +S.E.E. and to the north of east; blew fresh, and by squalls, with showers +of rain. + +1772 October + +With these winds we advanced but slowly; and, without meeting with anything +remarkable till the 11th of October, when, at 6h 24m 12s, by Mr Kendal's +watch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed, and soon after we prepared +to observe the end of the eclipse, as follows, viz. + + h. m. s. + +By me at 6 53 51 with a common refractor. +By Mr Forster 6 55 23 +By Mr Wales 6 54 57 quadrant telescope. +By Mr Pickersgill 6 55 30 three feet refractor. +By Mr Gilert 6 53 24 naked eye. +By Mr Hervey 6 55 34 quadrant telescope. + --------- +Mean 6 54 46-1/2 by the watch. +Watch slow of apparent time 0 3 59 + --------- +Apparent time 6 58 45-1/2 end of the eclipse. +Ditto 7 25 0 at Greenwich. + --------- +Dif. of longitude 0 26 14-1/2 == 6° 33' 30" + + The longitude observed by Mr Wales, was + +By the and Aquilae 5° 51' | +By the and Adebaran 6° 35 |Mean 6° 13' 0" +By Mr Kendal's watch 6° 53 7/8 + +The next morning, having but little wind, we hoisted a boat out, to try if +there was any current, but found none. From this time to the 16th, we had +the wind between the north and east, a gentle gale. We had for some time +ceased to see any of the birds before-mentioned; and were now accompanied +by albatrosses, pintadoes, sheerwaters, &c., and a small grey peterel, less +than a pigeon. It has a whitish belly, and grey back, with a black stroke +across from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. These birds +sometimes visited us in great flights. They are, as well as the pintadoes, +southern birds; and are, I believe, never seen within the tropics, or north +of the Line. + +On the 17th, we saw a sail to the N.W., standing to the eastward, which +hoisted Dutch colours. She kept us company for two days, but the third we +outsailed her. + +On the 21st, at 7h. 30m. 20s. a, m., our longitude, by the mean of two +observed distances of the sun and moon, was 8° 4' 30" E., Mr Kendal's watch +at the same time gave 7° 22'. Our latitude was 35° 20' N. The wind was now +easterly, and continued so till the 23d, when it veered to N. and N.W. +after some hours calm; in which we put a boat in the water, and Mr Forster +shot some albatrosses and other birds, on which we feasted the next day, +and found them exceedingly good. At the same time we saw a seal, or, as +some thought, a sea-lion, which probably might be an inhabitant of one of +the isles of Tristian de Cunhah, being now nearly in their latitude, and +about 5° east of them. + +The wind continued but two days at N.W. and S.W.; then veered to the S.E., +where it remained two days longer; then fixed at N.W., which carried us to +our intended port. As we approached the land, the sea-fowl, which had +accompanied us hitherto, began to leave us; at least they did not come in +such numbers. Nor did we see gannets, or the black bird, commonly called +the Cape Hen, till we were nearly within sight of the Cape. Nor did we +strike sounding till Penguin Island bore N.N.E., distant two or three +leagues, where we had fifty fathom water. Not but that the soundings may +extend farther off. However, I am very sure that they do not extend very +far west from the Cape. For we could not find ground with a line of 210 +fathoms, twenty-five leagues west of Table-Bay; the same at thirty-five +leagues, and at sixty-four leagues. I sounded these three times, in order +to find a bank, which, I had been told, lies to the west of the cape; but +how far I never could learn. + +I was told before I left England, by some gentlemen who were well enough +acquainted with the navigation between England and the Cape of Good Hope, +that I sailed at an improper season of the year; and that I should meet +with much calm weather, near and under the Line. This probably may be the +case some years. It is, however, not general. On the contrary, we hardly +met with any calms; but a brisk S.W. wind in those very latitudes where the +calms are expected. Nor did we meet with any of those tornadoes, so much +spoken of by other navigators. However, what they have said of the current +setting towards the coast of Guinea, as you approach that shore, is true. +For, from the time of our leaving St Jago, to our arrival into the latitude +of 1-1/2° N., which was eleven days, we were carried by the current 3° of +longitude more east than our reckoning. On the other hand, after we had +crossed the Line, and got the S.E. trade-wind, we always found, by +observation, that the ship outstripped the reckoning, which we judged to be +owing to a current setting between the south and west. But, upon the whole, +the currents in this run seemed to balance each other; for upon our arrival +at the Cape, the difference of longitude by dead reckoning kept from +England, without once being corrected, was only three quarters of a degree +less than that by observation. + +At two in the afternoon on the 29th, we made the land of the Cape of Good +Hope. The Table Mountain, which is over the Cape Town, bore E.S.E., +distance twelve or fourteen leagues. At this time it was a good deal +obscured by clouds, otherwise it might, from its height, have been seen at +a much greater distance. We now crowded all the sail we could, thinking to +get into the bay before dark. But when we found this could not be +accomplished, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on. +Between eight and nine o'clock, the whole sea, within the compass of our +sight, became at once, as it were illuminated; or, what the seamen call, +all on fire. This appearance of the sea, in some degree, is very common; +but the cause is not so generally known. Mr Banks and Dr Solander had +satisfied me that it was occasioned by sea-insects. Mr Forster, however, +seemed not to favour this opinion. I therefore had some buckets of water +drawn up from alongside the ship, which we found full of an innumerable +quantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin's-head, +and quite transparent. There was no doubt of their being living animals, +when in their own proper element, though we could not perceive any life in +them: Mr Forster, whose province it is more minutely to describe things of +this nature, was now well satisfied with the cause of the sea's +illumination. + +At length day-light came and brought us fair weather; and having stood into +Table Bay, with the Adventure in company, we anchored in five fathom water. +We afterwards moored N.E. and S.W., Green Point on the west point of the +bay, bearing N.W. by W., and the church, in one with the valley between the +Table Mountain and the Sugar-Loaf, or Lion's Head, bearing S.W. by S., and +distant from the landing-place near the fort, one mile. + +We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the captain of the port, +or master-attendant, some other officers belonging to the company, and Mr +Brandt. This last gentleman brought us off such things as could not fail of +being acceptable to persons coming from sea. The purport of the master +attendant's visit was, according to custom, to take an account of the +ships; to enquire into the health of the crews; and, in particular, if the +small-pox was on board; a thing they dread, above all others, at the Cape, +and for these purposes a surgeon is always one of the visitants. + +My first step after anchoring, was, to send an officer to wait on Baron +Plettenberg, the governor, to acquaint him with our arrival, and the +reasons which induced me to put in there. To this the officer received a +very polite answer; and, upon his return, we saluted the garrison with +eleven guns, which compliment was returned. Soon after I went on shore +myself, and waited upon the governor, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and +the two Mr Forsters. He received us, with very great politeness, and +promised me every assistance the place could afford. From him I learned +that two French ships from the Mauritius, about eight months before, had +discovered land, in the latitude of 48° S., and in the meridian of that +island, along which they sailed forty miles, till they came to a bay into +which they were about to enter, when they were driven off and separated in +a hard gale of wind, after having lost some of their boats and people, +which they had sent to sound the bay. One of the ships, viz. the La +Fortune, soon after arrived at the Mauritius, the captain of which was sent +home to France with an account of the discovery. The governor also informed +me, that in March last, two other French ships from the island of +Mauritius, touched at the Cape in their way to the South Pacific Ocean; +where they were going to make discoveries, under the command of M. Marion. +Aotourou, the man M. de Bougainville brought from Otaheite, was to have +returned with M. Marion, had he been living. + +After having visited the governor and some other principal persons of the +place, we fixed ourselves at Mr Brandt's, the usual residence of most +officers belonging to English ships. This gentleman spares neither trouble +nor expence to make his house agreeable to those who favour him with their +company, and to accommodate them with every thing they want. With him I +concerted measures for supplying the ships with provisions, and all other +necessaries they wanted; which he set about procuring without delay, while +the seamen on board were employed in overhauling the rigging; and the +carpenters in caulking the ships' sides and decks, &c. + +Messrs Wales and Bayley got all their instruments on shore, in order to +make astronomical observations for ascertaining the going of the watches, +and other purposes. The result of some of these observations shewed, that +Mr Kendal's watch had answered beyond all expectation, by pointing out the +longitude of this place to within one minute of time to what it was +observed by Messrs Mason and Dixon in 1761. + +Three or four days after us, two Dutch Indiamen arrived here from Holland; +after a passage of between four and five months, in which one lost, by the +scurvy and other putrid diseases, 150 men, and the other 41. They sent, on +their arrival, great numbers to the hospital in very dreadful +circumstances. It is remarkable that one of these ships touched at Port +Praya, and left it a month before we arrived there; and yet we got here +three days before her. The Dutch at the Cape having found their hospital +too small for the reception of their sick, were going to build a new one at +the east part of the town; the foundation of which was laid with great +ceremony while we were there. + +1772 November + +By the healthy condition of the crews of both ships at our arrival, I +thought to have made my stay at the Cape very short. But, as the bread we +wanted was unbaked, and the spirit, which I found scarce, to be collected +from different parts out of the country, it was the 18th of November before +we had got every thing on board, and the 22d before we could put to sea. +During this stay the crews of both ships were served every day with fresh +beef or mutton, new-baked bread, and as much greens as they could eat. The +ships were caulked and painted; and, in every respect, put in as good a +condition as when they left England. Some alterations in the officers took +place in the Adventure. Mr Shank the first lieutenant having been in an ill +state of health ever since we sailed from Plymouth, and not finding himself +recover here, desired my leave to quit, in order to return home for the re- +establishment of his health. As his request appeared to be well-founded, I +granted him leave accordingly, and appointed Mr Kemp, first lieutenant in +his room, and Mr Burney, one of my midshipmen, second, in the room of Mr +Kemp. + +Mr Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit of natural history +and botany, met with a Swedish gentleman, one Mr Sparman, who understood +something of these sciences, having studied under Dr Linnĉus. He being +willing to embark with us, Mr Forster strongly importuned me to take him on +board, thinking that he would be of great assistance to him in the course +of the voyage. I at last consented, and he embarked with us accordingly, as +an assistant to Mr Forster, who bore his expences on board, and allowed him +a yearly stipend besides. + +Mr Hodges employed himself here in drawing a view of the Cape, town, and +parts adjacent, in oil colours, which, was properly packed up with some +others, and left with Mr Brandt, in order to be forwarded to the Admiralty +by the first ship that should sail for England. + +CHAPTER II. + +_Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a Southern +Continent._ + +1772 November + +Having at length finished my business at the Cape, and taken leave of the +governor and some others of the chief officers, who, with very obliging +readiness, had given me all the assistance I could desire, on the 22d of +November we repaired on board; and at three o'clock in the afternoon +weighed, and came to sail with the wind at N. by W. As soon as the anchor +was up, we saluted the port with fifteen guns, which was immediately +returned; and after making a few trips, got out of the bay by seven +o'clock, at which time the town bore S.E. distant four miles. After this we +stood to the westward all night, in order to get clear of the land, having +the wind at N.N.W. and N.W., blowing in squalls attended with rain, which +obliged us to reef our topsails. The sea was again illuminated for some +time, in the same manner as it was the night before we arrived in Table +Bay. + +Having got clear of the land, I directed my course for Cape Circumcision. +The wind continued at N.W. a moderate gale, until the 24th, when it veered +round to the eastward. On the noon of this day, we were in the latitude of +35° 25' S., and 29' west of the Cape; and had abundance of albatrosses +about us, several of which were caught with hook and line; and were very +well relished by many of the people, notwithstanding they were at this time +served with fresh mutton. Judging that we should soon come into cold +weather, I ordered slops to be served to such as were in want; and gave to +each man the fearnought jacket and trowsers allowed them by the Admiralty. + +1772 December + +The wind continued easterly for two days, and blew a moderate gale, which +brought us into the latitude of 39° 4', and 2° of longitude west of the +Cape, thermometer 52-1/2 The wind now came to W. and S.W.; and on the +29th fixed at W.N.W., and increased to a storm, which continued, with some +few intervals of moderate weather, till the 6th of December, when we were +in the latitude of 48° 41' S., and longitude 18° 24' E. This gale, which +was attended with rain and hail, blew at times with such violence that we +could carry no sails; by which means we were driven far to the eastward of +our intended course, and no hopes were left me of reaching Cape +Circumcision. But the greatest misfortune that attended us, was the loss of +great part of our live stock, which we had brought from the Cape, and which +consisted of sheep, hogs, and geese. Indeed this sudden transition from +warm, mild weather, to extreme cold and wet, made every man in the ship +feel its effects. For by this time the mercury in the thermometer had +fallen to 38; whereas at the Cape it was generally at 67 and upwards. I now +made some addition to the people's allowance of spirit, by giving them a +dram whenever I thought it necessary, and ordered Captain Furneaux to do +the same. The night proved clear and serene, and the only one that was so +since we left the Cape; and the next morning the rising sun gave us such +flattering hopes of a fine day, that we were induced to let all the reefs +out of the top-sails, and to get top-gallant yards across, in order to make +the most of a fresh gale at north. Our hopes, however, soon vanished; for +before eight o'clock, the serenity of the sky was changed into a thick +haze, accompanied with rain. The gale increasing obliged us to hand the +main-sail, close-reef our top-sails, and to strike top-gallant yards. The +barometer at this time was unusually low, which foreboded an approaching +storm, and this happened accordingly. For, by one o'clock p. m. the wind, +which was at N.W., blew with such strength as obliged us to take in all our +sails, to strike top-gallant-masts, and to get the spritsail-yard in. And I +thought proper to wear, and lie-to, under a mizzen-stay-sail, with the +ships' heads to the N.E. as they would bow the sea, which ran prodigiously +high, better on this tack. + +At eight o'clock next morning, being the 8th, we wore, and lay on the other +tack; the gale was a little abated, but the sea ran too high to make sail, +any more than the fore-top-mast-stay-sail. In the evening, being in the +latitude of 49° 40 S., and 1-1/2° E. of the Cape, we saw two penguins and +some sea or rock-weed, which occasioned us to sound, without finding ground +at 100 fathoms. At eight p. m. we wore, and lay with our heads to the N.E. +till three in the morning of the 9th, then wore again to the southward, the +wind blowing in squalls attended with showers of snow. At eight, being +something more moderate, I made the Adventure signal to make sail; and soon +after made sail ourselves under the courses and close-reefed top-sails. In +the evening, took in the top-sails and main-sail, and brought-to under +fore-sail and mizzen; thermometer at 36°. The wind still at N.W. blew a +fresh gale, accompanied with a very high sea. In the night had a pretty +smart frost with snow. + +In the morning of the 10th we made sail under courses and top-sails close- +reefed; and made the signal for the Adventure to make sail and lead. At +eight o'clock saw an island of ice to the westward of us, being then in the +latitude of 56° 40' S. and longitude 2° 0' E. of the Cape of Good Hope. +Soon after the wind moderated, and we let all the reefs out of the top- +sails, got the spritsail-yard out, and top-gallant-mast up. The weather +coming hazy, I called the Adventure by signal under my stern, which was no +sooner done, than the haze increased so much with snow and sleet, that we +did not see an island of ice, which we were steering directly for, till we +were less than a mile from it. I judged it to be about 50 feet high, and +half a mile in circuit. It was flat at top, and its sides rose in a +perpendicular direction, against which the sea broke exceedingly high. +Captain Furneaux at first took this ice for land, and hauled off from it, +until called back by signal. As the weather was foggy, it was necessary to +proceed with caution. We therefore reefed our top-sails, and at the same +time sounded, but found no ground with 150 fathoms. We kept on to the +southward with the wind at north till night, which we spent in making short +trips, first one way and then another, under an easy sail; thermometer +these 24 hours from 36-1/2 to 31. + +At day-light in the morning of the 11th, we made sail to the southward with +the wind at west, having a fresh gale, attended with sleet and snow. At +noon we were in the latitude of 51° 50' S., and longitude 21° 3' E., where +we saw some white birds about the size of pigeons, with blackish bills and +feet. I never saw any such before; and Mr Forster had no knowledge of them. +I believe them to be of the peterel tribe, and natives of these icy +seas. At this time we passed between two ice islands, which lay at a +little distance from each other. + +In the night the wind veered to N.W. which enabled us to steer S.W. On the +12th we had still thick hazy weather, with sleet and snow; so that we were +obliged to proceed with great caution on account of the ice islands. Six of +these we passed this day; some of them near two miles in circuit, and sixty +feet high. And yet, such was the force and height of the waves, that the +sea broke quite over them. This exhibited a view which for a few moments +was pleasing to the eye; but when we reflected on the danger, the mind was +filled with horror. For were a ship to get against the weather-side of one +of these islands when the sea runs high, she would be dashed to pieces in a +moment. Upon our getting among the ice islands, the albatrosses left us; +that is, we saw but one now and then. Nor did our other companions, the +pintadoes, sheerwaters, small grey birds, fulmars, &c., appear in such +numbers; on the other hand, penguins began to make their appearance. Two of +these birds were seen to-day. + +The wind in the night veered to west, and at last fixed at S.W., a fresh +gale, with sleet and snow, which froze on our sails and rigging as it fell, +so that they were all hung with icicles. We kept on to the southward, +passed no less than eighteen ice islands, and saw more penguins. At noon on +the 13th, we were in the latitude of 54° S., which is the latitude of Cape +Circumcision, discovered by M. Bouvet in 1739; but we were ten degrees of +longitude east of it; that is, near 118 leagues in this latitude. We stood +on to the S.S.E. till eight o'clock in the evening, the weather still +continuing thick and hazy, with sleet and snow. From noon till this time, +twenty ice islands, of various extent, both for height and circuit, +presented themselves to our view. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no +ground with 150 fathom of line. + +We now tacked and made a trip to the northward till midnight, when we stood +again to the southward; and at half an hour past six o'clock in the morning +of the 14th, we were stopped by an immense field of low ice; to which we +could see no end, either to the east, west, or south. In different parts of +this field were islands or hills of ice, like those we found floating in +the sea; and some on board thought they saw land also over the ice, bearing +S.W. by S. I even thought so myself; but changed my opinion upon more +narrowly examining these ice hills, and the various appearances they made +when seen through the haze. For at this time it was both hazy and cloudy in +the horizon; so that a distant object could not be seen distinct. Being +now in the latitude of 54° 50' S. and longitude 21° 34' E., and having the +wind at N.W. we bore away along the edge of the ice, steering S.S.E. and +S.E., according to the direction of the north side of it, where we saw many +whales, penguins, some white birds, pintadoes, &c. + +At eight o'clock we brought-to under a point of the ice, where we had +smooth water: and I sent on board for Captain Furneaux. After we had fixed +on rendezvouses in case of separation, and some other matters for the +better keeping company, he returned on board, and we made sail again along +the ice. Some pieces we took up along-side, which yielded fresh water. At +noon we had a good observation, and found ourselves in latitude 54° 55' S. + +We continued a south-east course along the edge of the ice, till one +o'clock, when we came to a point round which we hauled S.S.W., the sea +appearing to be clear of ice in that direction. But after running four +leagues upon this course, with the ice on our starboard side, we found +ourselves quite imbayed; the ice extending from N.N.E. round by the west +and south, to east, in one compact body. The weather was indifferently +clear; and yet we could see no end to it. At five o'clock we hauled up +east, wind at north, a gentle gale, in order to clear the ice. The extreme +east point of it, at eight o'clock, bore E. by S., over which appeared a +clear sea. We however spent the night in making short boards, under an easy +sail. Thermometer, these 24 hours, from 32 to 30. + +Next day, the 15th, we had the wind at N.W., a small gale, thick foggy +weather, with much snow; thermometer from 32 to 27; so that our sails and +rigging were all hung with icicles. The fog was so thick at times, that we +could not see the length of the ship; and we had much difficulty to avoid +the many islands of ice that surrounded us. About noon, having but little +wind, we hoisted out a boat to try the current, which we found set S.E. +near 3/4 of a mile an hour. At the same time, a thermometer, which in the +open air was at 32°, in the surface of the sea was at 30°; and, after being +immerged 100 fathoms deep for about fifteen or twenty minutes, came up at +34°, which is only 2° above freezing. Our latitude at this time was 55° +8'. + +The thick fog continued till two o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, +when it cleared away a little, and we made sail to the southward, wind +still at N.W. a gentle gale. We had not run long to the southward before we +fell in with the main field of ice extending from S.S.W. to E. We now bore +away to east along the edge of it; but at night hauled off north, with the +wind at W.N.W., a gentle gale, attended with snow. + +At four in the morning on the 17th, stood again to the south; but was again +obliged to bear up on account of the ice, along the side of which we +steered betwixt E. and S.S.W., hauling into every bay or opening, in hopes +of finding a passage to the south. But we found every where the ice closed. +We had a gentle gale at N.W. with showers of snow. At noon we were, by +observation, in the latitude of 55° 16' S. In the evening the weather was +clear and serene. In the course of this day we saw many whales, one seal, +penguins, some of the white birds, another sort of peterel, which is brown +and white, and not much unlike a pintado; and some other sorts already +known. We found the skirts of the loose ice to be more broken than usual; +and it extended some distance beyond the main field, insomuch that we +sailed amongst it the most part of the day; and the high ice islands +without us were innumerable. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no +ground with 250 fathoms of line. After this we hauled close upon a wind to +the northward, as we could see the field of ice extend as far as N.E. But +this happened not to be the northern point; for at eleven o'clock we were +obliged to tack to avoid it. + +At two o'clock the next morning we stood again to the northward, with the +wind at N.W. by W., thinking to weather the ice upon this tack; on which we +stood but two hours, before we found ourselves quite imbayed, being then in +latitude 55° 8', longitude 24° 3'. The wind veering more to the north, we +tacked and stood to the westward under all the sail we could carry, having +a fresh breeze and clear weather, which last was of short duration. For at +six o'clock it became hazy, and soon after there was thick fog; the wind +veered to the N.E., freshened and brought with it snow and sleet, which +froze on the rigging as it fell. We were now enabled to get clear of the +field of ice: but at the same time we were carried in amongst the ice +islands, in a manner equally dangerous, and which with much difficulty we +kept clear of. + +Dangerous as it is to sail among these floating rocks (if I may be allowed +to call them so) in a thick fog, this, however, is preferable to being +entangled with immense fields of ice under the same circumstances. The +great danger to be apprehended in this latter case, is the getting fast in +the ice; a situation which would be exceedingly alarming. I had two men on +board that had been in the Greenland trade; the one of them in a ship that +lay nine weeks, and the other in one that lay six weeks, fast in this kind +of ice, which they called packed ice. What they called field ice is +thicker; and the whole field, be it ever so large, consists of one piece. +Whereas this which I call field-ice, from its immense extent, consists of +many pieces of various sizes, both in thickness and surface, from thirty or +forty feet square to three or four, packed close together, and in places +heaped one upon another. This, I am of opinion, would be found too hard for +a ship's side, that is not properly armed against it. How long it may have +lain, or will lie here, is a point not easily determined. Such ice is found +in the Greenland seas all the summer long; and I think it cannot be colder +there in the summer, than it is here. Be this as it may, we certainly had +no thaw; on the contrary, the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer kept +generally below the freezing point, although it was the middle of summer. + +It is a general opinion, that the ice I have been speaking of, is formed in +bays and rivers. Under this supposition we were led to believe that land +was not far distant; and that it even lay to the southward behind the ice, +which alone hindered us from approaching to it. Therefore, as we had now +sailed above thirty leagues along the edge of the ice, without finding a +passage to the south, I determined to run thirty or forty leagues to the +east, afterwards endeavour to get to the southward, and, if I met with no +land, or other impediment, to get behind the ice, and put the matter out of +all manner of dispute. With this view, we kept standing to the N.W., with +the wind at N.E. and N., thick foggy weather, with sleet and snow, till six +in the evening, when the wind veered to N.W., and we tacked and stood to +the eastward, meeting with many islands of ice of different magnitudes, and +some loose pieces: The thermometer from 30 to 34; weather very hazy, with +sleet and snow, and more sensibly colder than the thermometer seemed to +point out, insomuch that the whole crew complained. In order to enable them +to support this weather the better, I caused the sleeves of their jackets +(which were so short as to expose their arms) to be lengthened with baize; +and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, together with canvas; +which proved of great service to them. + +Some of our people appearing to have symptoms of the scurvy, the surgeons +began to give them fresh wort every day, made from the malt we had on board +for that purpose. One man in particular was highly scorbutic; and yet he +had been taking the rob of lemon and orange for some time, without being +benefited thereby. On the other hand, Captain Furneaux told me, that he had +two men, who, though far gone in this disease, were now in a manner +entirely cured by it. + +We continued standing to the eastward till eight o'clock in the morning of +the 21st; when, being in the latitude of 53° 50', and longitude 29° 24' E., +we hauled to the south, with the wind at west, a fresh gale and hazy, with +snow. In the evening the wind fell and the weather cleared up, so as that +we could see a few leagues round us; being in the latitude of 54° 43' S. +longitude 29° 30' E. + +At ten o'clock, seeing many islands of ice a-head, and the weather coming +on foggy, with snow, we wore and stood to the northward, till three in the +morning, when we stood again to the south. At eight, the weather cleared +up, and the wind came to W.S.W., with which we made all the sail we could +to the south; having never less than ten or twelve islands of ice in sight. + +Next day we had the wind at S.W. and S.S.W., a gentle gale, with now and +then showers of snow and hail. In the morning, being in the latitude of 55° +20' S., and longitude 31° 30' E., we hoisted out a boat to see if there was +any current, but found none. Mr Forster, who went in the boat, shot some of +the small grey birds before-mentioned, which were of the peterel tribe, and +about the size of a small pigeon. Their back, and upper side of their +wings, their feet and bills, are of a blue-grey colour. Their bellies, and +under side of their wings are white, a little tinged with blue. The upper +side of their quill feathers is a dark-blue tinged with black. A streak is +formed by feathers nearly of this colour, along the upper parts of the +wings, and crossing the back a little above the tail. The end of the tail +feathers is also of the same colour. Their bills are much broader than any +I have seen of the same tribe; and their tongues are remarkably broad. +These blue peterels, as I shall call them, are seen no where but in the +southern hemisphere, from about the latitude of 28°, and upwards. +Thermometer at 33° in the open air, and 32° in the sea at the surface, and +at 34-1/2 when drawn, and 6-1/2 minutes in drawing up from 100 fathoms +below it, where it had been sixteen minutes. + +On the 24th, the wind blew from N.W. to N.E., a gentle gale, fair and +cloudy. At noon we were by observation, in the latitude of 56° 31' S, and +longitude 31° 19' E., the thermometer at 35. And being near an island of +ice, which was about fifty feet high, and 400 fathoms in circuit, I sent +the master in the jolly-boat to see if any water run from it. He soon +returned with an account that there was not one drop, or any other +appearance of thaw. In the evening we sailed through several floats, or +fields of loose ice, lying in the direction of S.E. and N.W.; at the same +time we had continually several islands of the same composition in sight. + +On the 25th, the wind veering round from the N.E., by the east to south, it +blew a gentle gale; with which we stood to the W.S.W, and at noon were in +the latitude of 57° 50' S., and longitude 29° 32' E. The weather was fair +and cloudy; the air sharp and cold, attended with a hard frost. And, +although this was the middle of summer with us, I much question if the day +was colder in any part of England. The wind continued at south, blew a +fresh gale, fair and cloudy weather, till near noon the next day, when we +had clear sun-shine, and found ourselves, by observation, in the latitude +of 58° 31' S., longitude 26° 57' E. + +In the course of the last twenty-four hours we passed through several +fields of broken loose ice. They were in general narrow, but of a +considerable length, in the direction of N.W. and S.E. The ice was so close +in one, that it would hardly admit the ship through it. The pieces were +flat, from four to six or eight inches thick, and appeared of that sort of +ice which is generally formed in bays or rivers. Others again were +different; the pieces forming various honey-combed branches, exactly like +coral rocks, and exhibiting such a variety of figures as can hardly be +conceived. + +We supposed this ice to have broke from the main field we had lately left; +and which I was determined to get to the south of, or behind, if possible, +in order to satisfy myself whether or not it joined to any land, as had +been conjectured. With this view I kept on to the westward, with a gentle +gale at south, and S.S.W., and soon after six o'clock in the evening, we +saw some penguins, which occasioned us to sound; but we found no ground +with 150 fathoms. + +In the morning of the 27th, we saw more loose ice, but not many islands; +and those we did see were but small. The day being calm and pleasant, and +the sea smooth, we hoisted out a boat, from which Mr Forster shot a penguin +and some peterels. These penguins differ not from those seen in other parts +of the world, except in some minute particulars distinguishable only by +naturalists. Some of the peterels were of the blue sort, but differed from +those before-mentioned, in not having a broad bill; and the ends of their +tail feathers were tipped with white instead of dark-blue. But whether +these were only the distinctions betwixt the male and female, was a matter +disputed by our naturalists. We were now in the latitude of 58° 19' S., +longitude 24° 39' E., and took the opportunity of the calm, to sound; but +found no ground with a line of 220 fathoms. The calm continued till six in +the evening, when it was succeeded by a light breeze from the east, which +afterwards increased to a fresh gale. + +In the morning of the 28th I made the signal to the Adventure to spread +four miles on my starboard beam; and in this position we continued sailing +W.S.W., until four o'clock in the afternoon, when the hazy weather, +attended with snow showers, made it necessary for us to join. Soon after we +reefed our top-sails, being surrounded on all sides with islands of ice. In +the morning of the 29th we let them out again, and set top-gallant-sails; +still continuing our course to the westward, and meeting with several +penguins. At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 59° 12', +longitude 19° 1' E., which is 3° more to the west than we were when we +first fell in with the field of ice; so that it is pretty clear that it +joined to no land, as we conjectured. + +Having come to a resolution to run as far west as the meridian of Cape +Circumcision, provided we met with no impediment, as the distance was not +more than eighty leagues, the wind favourable, and the sea seemed to be +pretty clear of ice, I sent on board for Captain Furneaux, to make him +acquainted therewith, and after dinner he returned to his ship. At one +o'clock we steered for an island of ice, thinking if there were any loose +ice round it, to take some on board, and convert it into fresh water. At +four we brought-to, close under the lee of the island, where we did not +find what we wanted, but saw upon it eighty-six penguins. This piece of ice +was about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet high and upwards, +for we lay for some minutes with every sail becalmed under it. The side on +which the penguins were, rose sloping from the sea, so as to admit them to +creep up it. + +It is a received opinion, that penguins never go far from land, and that +the sight of them is a sure indication of its vicinity. The opinion may +hold good where there are no ice islands; but where such are, these birds, +as well as many others which usually keep near the shores, finding a +roosting-place upon these islands, may be brought by them a great distance +from any land. It will, however, be said, that they must go on shore to +breed, that probably the females were there, and that these are only the +males which we saw. Be this as it may, I shall continue to take notice of +these birds whenever we see them, and leave every one to judge for himself. + +We continued our course to the westward, with a gentle gale at E.N.E., the +weather being sometimes tolerably clear, and at other times thick and hazy, +with snow. The thermometer for a few days past was from 31 to 36. At nine +o'clock the next morning, being the 30th, we shot one of the white birds, +upon which we lowered a boat into the water to take it up, and by that +means killed a penguin which weighed eleven pounds and a half. The white +bird was of the peterel tribe; the bill, which is rather short, is of a +colour between black and dark blue, and their legs and feet are blue. I +believe them to be the same sort of birds that Bouvet mentions to have seen +when he was off Cape Circumcision. + +We continued our westerly course till eight o'clock in the evening, when we +steered N.W., the point on which I reckoned the above-mentioned cape to +bear. At midnight we fell in with loose ice, which soon after obliged us to +tack, and stretch to the southward. At half an hour past two o'clock in the +morning of the 31st, we stood for it again, thinking to take some on board, +but this was found impracticable; for the wind, which had been at N.E, now +veered to S.E., and increasing to a fresh gale, brought with it such a sea +as made it very dangerous for the ships to remain among the ice. The danger +was yet farther increased by discovering an immense field to the north, +extending from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W. farther than the eye could reach. +As we were not above two or three miles from this, and surrounded by loose +ice, there was no time to deliberate. We presently wore; got our tacks on +board; hauled to the south, and soon got clear; but not before we had +received several hard knocks from the loose pieces, which were of the +largest sort, and among which we saw a seal. In the afternoon the wind +increased in such a manner, as to oblige us to hand the top-sails, and +strike top-gallant-yards. At eight o'clock we tacked and stood to the east +till midnight; when being in the latitude of 60° 21' S., longitude 13° 32' +E, we stood again to the west. + +1773 January + +Next day, towards noon, the gale abated, so that we could carry close- +reefed top-sails. But the weather continued thick and hazy, with sleet and +snow, which froze on the rigging as it fell, and ornamented the whole with +icicles; the mercury in the thermometer being generally below the freezing +point. This weather continued till near noon the next day; at which time we +were in the latitude of 59° 12' S.; longitude 9° 45' E.; and here we saw +some penguins. + +The wind had now veered to the west, and was so moderate, that we could +bear two reefs out of the top-sails. In the afternoon, we were favoured +with a sight of the moon, whose face we had seen but once since we left the +Cape of Good Hope. By this a judgment may be formed of the sort of weather +we had since we left that place. We did not fail to seize the opportunity +to make several observations of the sun and moon. The longitude deduced +from it was 9° 34' 30" E. Mr Kendal's watch, at the same time, giving 10° +6' E., and the latitude was 58° 53' 30" S. + +This longitude is nearly the same that is assigned to Cape Circumcision; +and at the going down of the sun we were about ninety-five leagues to the +south of the latitude it is said to lie in. At this time the weather was so +clear, that we might have seen land at fourteen or fifteen leagues +distance. It is, therefore very probable, that what Bouvet took for land, +was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded by loose or field-ice. We +ourselves were undoubtedly deceived by the ice-hills, the day we first fell +in with the field-ice. Nor was it an improbable conjecture, that that ice +joined to land. The probability was however now greatly lessened, if not +entirely set aside; for the space between the northern edge of the ice, +along which we sailed, and our route to the west, when south of it, no +where exceeded 100 leagues, and in some places not 60. The clear weather +continued no longer than three o'clock the next morning, when it was +succeeded by a thick fog, sleet, and snow. The wind also veered to N.E. and +blew a fresh gale, with which we stood to S.E. It increased in such a +manner, that before noon we were brought under close-reefed top-sails. The +wind continued to veer to the north, at last fixed at N.W., and was +attended with intervals of clear weather. + +Our course was E. 1/4 N., till noon the next day, when we were in the +latitude of 59° 2' S., and nearly under the same meridian as we were when +we fell in with the last field of ice, five days before; so that had it +remained in the same situation, we must now have been in the middle of it, +whereas we did not so much as see any. We cannot suppose that so large a +float of ice as this was, could be destroyed in so short a time. It +therefore must have drifted to the northward: and this makes it probable +that there is no land under this meridian, between the latitude of 55° and +59°, where we had supposed some to lie, as mentioned above. + +As we were now only sailing over a part of the sea where we had been +before, I directed the course E.S.E. in order to get more to the south. We +had the advantage of a fresh gale, and the disadvantage of a thick fog; +much snow and sleet, which, as usual, froze on our rigging as it fell; so +that every rope was covered with the finest transparent ice I ever saw. +This afforded an agreeable sight enough to the eye, but conveyed to the +mind an idea of coldness, much greater than it really was; for the weather +was rather milder then it had been for some time past, and the sea less +encumbered with ice. But the worst was, the ice so clogged the rigging, +sails, and blocks, as to make them exceedingly bad to handle. Our people, +however, surmounted those difficulties with a steady perseverance, and +withstood this intense cold much better than I expected. + +We continued to steer to the E.S.E. with a fresh gale at N.W. attended with +snow and sleet, till the 8th, when we were in the latitude of 61° 12' S., +longitude 31° 47' E. In the afternoon we passed more ice islands than we +had seen for several days. Indeed they were now so familiar to us, that +they were often passed unnoticed; but more generally unseen on account of +the thick weather. At nine o'clock in the evening, we came to one, which +had a quantity of loose ice about it. As the wind was moderate, and the +weather tolerably fair, we shortened sail, and stood on and off, with a +view of taking some on board on the return of light. But at four o'clock in +the morning, finding ourselves to leeward of this ice, we bore down to an +island to leeward of us; there being about it some loose ice, part of which +we saw break off. There we brought-to; hoisted out three boats; and in +about five or six hours, took up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of +good fresh water. The pieces we took up were hard, and solid as a rock; +some of them were so large, that we were obliged to break them with pick- +axes before they could be taken into the boats. + +The salt water which adhered to the ice, was so trifling as not to be +tasted, and, after it had lain on deck for a short time, entirely drained +off; and the water which the ice yielded, was perfectly sweet and well- +tasted. Part of the ice we broke in pieces, and put into casks; some we +melted in the coppers, and filled up the casks with the water; and some we +kept on deck for present use. The melting and stowing away the ice is a +little tedious, and takes up some time; otherwise this is the most +expeditious way of watering I ever met with. + +Having got on board this supply of water, and the Adventure about two- +thirds as much (of which we stood in great need,) as we had once broke the +ice, I did not doubt of getting more whenever we were in want. I therefore +without hesitation directed our course more to the south, with a gentle +gale at N.W., attended, as usual, with snow showers. In the morning of the +11th, being then in the latitude of 62° 44' S., longitude 37° E., the +variation of the compass was 24° 10' W., and the following morning in the +latitude of 64° 12' S., longitude 38° 14' E., by the mean of three +compasses, it was no more than 23° 52' W. In this situation we saw some +penguins; and being near an island of ice from which several pieces had +broken, we hoisted out two boats, and took on board as much as filled all +our empty casks, and the Adventure did the same. While this was doing, Mr +Forster shot an albatross, whose plumage was of a colour between brown and +dark-grey, the head and upper side of the wings rather inclining to black, +and it had white eye-brows. We began to see these birds about the time of +our first falling in with the ice islands; and some have accompanied us +ever since. These, and the dark-brown sort with a yellow bill, were the +only albatrosses that had not now forsaken us. + +At four o'clock p.m. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S.E., +with a gentle breeze at S. by W., attended with showers of snow. + +On the 13th, at two o'clock a. m. it fell calm. Of this we took the +opportunity to hoist out a boat, to try the current, which we found to set +N.W. near one-third of a mile an hour. At the time of trying the current, a +Fahrenheit's thermometer was immerged in the sea 100 fathoms below its +surface, where it remained twenty minutes. When it came up, the mercury +stood at 32, which is the freezing point. Some little time after, being +exposed to the surface of the sea, it rose to 33-1/2, and in the open air +to 36. The calm continued till five o'clock in the evening, when it was +succeeded by a light breeze from the S. and S.E., with which we stood to +the N.E. with all our sails set. + +Though the weather continued fair, the sky, as usual, was clouded. However, +at nine o'clock the next morning, it was clear; and we were enabled to +observe several distances between the sun and moon. The mean result of +which gave 39° 30' 30" E. longitude. Mr Kendal's watch at the same time +gave 38° 27' 45" which is 1° 2' 45" W. of the observations; whereas, on the +3d instant, it was half a degree E. of them. + +In the evening I found the variation by the + mean of azimuths taken with Gregory's + compass to be 28° 14' 0" + +By the mean of six azimuths by one of Dr + Knight's 28 32 0 + +And by another of Dr Knight's 28 34 0 + +Our latitude at this time was 63° 57', longitude 39° 38-1/2" + +The succeeding morning, the 15th, being then in latitude 63° 33' S., the +longitude was observed by the following persons, viz. + +Myself, being the mean of six distances of + the sun and moon 40° 1' 45" E. + +Mr Wales, ditto 39 29 45 + +Ditto, ditto 39 56 45 + +Lieutenant Clerke, ditto 39 38 0 + +Mr Gilbert, ditto 39 48 45 + +Mr Smith, ditto 39 18 15 + ---------- +Mean 39 42 12 + +Mr Kendal's watch made 38 41 30 + +which is nearly the same difference as the day before. But Mr Wales and I +took each of us six distances of the sun and moon, with the telescopes +fixed to our sextants, which brought out the longitude nearly the same as +the watch. + +The results were as follows:--By Mr Wales, 38° 35' 30", and by me, 38° 36' +45". + +It is impossible for me to say whether these or the former are the nearest +to the truth; nor can I assign any probable reason for so great a +disagreement. We certainly can observe with greater accuracy through the +telescope, than with the common sight, when the ship is sufficiently +steady. The use of the telescope is found difficult at first, but a little +practice will make it familiar. By the assistance of the watch, we shall be +able to discover the greatest error this method of observing the longitude +at sea is liable to; which at the greatest does not exceed a degree and a +half, and in general will be found to be much less. Such is the improvement +navigation has received by the astronomers and mathematical instrument- +makers of this age; by the former from the valuable tables they have +communicated to the public, under the direction of the Board of Longitude, +and contained in the astronomical ephemeris; and by the latter, from the +great accuracy they observe in making instruments, without which the tables +would, in a great measure, lose their effect. The preceding observations +were made by four different sextants, of different workmen. Mine was by Mr +Bird; one of Mr Wales's by Mr Dollond; the other and Mr Clerke's by Mr +Ramsden; as also Mr Gilbert's and Smith's, who observed with the same +instrument. + +Five tolerably fine days had now succeeded one another. This, besides +giving us an opportunity to make the preceding observations, was very +serviceable to us on many other accounts, and came at a very seasonable +time. For, having on board a good quantity of fresh water, or ice, which +was the same thing, the people were enabled to wash and dry their clothes +and linen; a care that can never be enough attended to in all long voyages. +The winds during this time blew in gentle gales, and the weather was mild. +Yet the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 36; and was frequently +as low as the freezing point. + +In the afternoon having but little wind, I brought-to under an island of +ice, and sent a boat to take up some. In the evening the wind freshened at +east, and was attended with snow showers and thick hazy weather, which +continued great part of the 16th. As we met with little ice, I stood to the +south, close hauled; and at six o'clock in the evening, being in the +latitude of 64° 56' S., longitude 39° 35' E. I found the variation by +Gregory's compass to be 26° 41' W. At this time the motion of the ship was +so great that I could by no means observe with any of Dr Knight's +compasses. + +As the wind remained invariably fixed at E. and E. by S., I continued to +stand to the south; and on the 17th, between eleven and twelve o'clock, we +crossed the Antarctic Circle in the longitude of 39° 35' E., for at noon we +were by observation in the latitude of 66° 36' 30" S. The weather was now +become tolerably clear, so that we could see several leagues round us; and +yet we had only seen one island of ice since the morning. But about four +p.m. as we were steering to the south, we observed the whole sea in a +manner covered with ice, from the direction of S.E., round by the S. to W. + +In this space, thirty-eight ice islands, great and small, were seen, +besides loose ice in abundance, so that we were obliged to luff for one +piece, and bear up for another, and as we continued to advance to the +south, it increased in such a manner, that at three quarters past six +o'clock, being then in the latitude of 67° 15' S., we could proceed no +farther; the ice being entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent +from E. to W.S.W., without the least appearance of any opening. This +immense field was composed of different kinds of ice; such as high hills, +loose or broken pieces packed close together, and what, I think, +Greenlandmen call field-ice. A float of this kind of ice lay to the S.E. of +us, of such extent, that I could see no end to it from the mast-head. It +was sixteen or eighteen feet high at least; and appeared of a pretty equal +height and surface. Here we saw many whales playing about the ice, and for +two days before had seen several flocks of the brown and white pintadoes, +which we named Antarctic peterels, because they seem to be natives of that +region. They are, undoubtedly, of the peterel tribe; are in every respect +shaped like the pintadoes, differing only from them in colour. The head and +fore-part of the body of these are brown; and the hind-part of the body, +tail, and the ends of the wings, are white. The white peterel also appeared +in greater numbers than before; some few dark-grey albatrosses, and our +constant companion the blue peterel. But the common pintadoes had quite +disappeared, as well as many other sorts, which are common in lower +latitudes. + +CHAPTER III. + +_Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent, between the Meridian of +the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an Account of the Separation of +the two Ships, and the Arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay._ + +1773 January + +After meeting with this ice, I did not think it was at all prudent to +persevere in getting farther to the south; especially as the summer was +already half spent, and it would have taken up some time to have got round +the ice, even supposing it to have been practicable; which, however, is +doubtful. I therefore came to a resolution to proceed directly in search of +the land lately discovered by the French. And, as the winds still continued +at E. by S., I was obliged to return to the north, over some part of the +sea I had already made myself acquainted with, and, for that reason, wished +to have avoided. But this was not to be done, as our course made good, was +little better than north. In the night the wind increased to a strong gale, +attended with sleet and snow, and obliged us to double-reef our top-sails. +About noon the next day the gale abated, so that we could bear all our +reefs out; but the wind still remained in its old quarter. + +In the evening, being in the latitude of 64° 12' S., longitude 40° 15' E., +a bird, called by us in my former voyage Port Egmont Hen, (on account of +the great plenty of them at Port Egmont in Falkland Isles,) came hovering +several times over the ship, and then left us in the direction of N.E. They +are a short thick bird, about the size of a large crow, of a dark-brown or +chocolate colour, with a whitish streak under each wing, in the shape of a +half-moon. I have been told that these birds are found in great plenty at +the Fero Isles, North of Scotland; and that they never go far from land. +Certain it is, I never before saw them above forty leagues off; but I do +not remember ever seeing fewer than two together; whereas here was but one, +which, with the islands of ice, may have come a good way from land. + +At nine o'clock, the wind veering to E.N.E., we tacked and stood to the +S.S.E, but at four in the morning of the 20th, it returned back to its old +point, and we resumed our northerly course. One of the above birds was seen +this morning, probably the same we saw the night before, as our situation +was not much altered. As the day advanced, the gale increased, attended +with thick hazy weather, sleet, and snow, and at last obliged us to close- +reef our top-sails, and strike top-gallant-yards. But in the evening the +wind abated so as to admit us to carry whole top-sails, and top-gallant- +yards aloft. Hazy weather, with snow and sleet continued. + +In the afternoon of the 21st, being in the latitude of 62° 24' S., +longitude 42° 19' E., we saw a white albatross with black tipped wings, and +a pintado bird. The wind was now at S. and S.W., a fresh gale. With this we +steered N.E., against a very high sea, which did not indicate the vicinity +of land in that quarter; and yet it was there we were to expect it. The +next day we had intervals of fair weather, the wind was moderate, and we +carried our studding-sails. In the morning of the 23d, we were in +latitude of 60° 27' S., longitude 45° 33' E. Snow showers continued, and +the weather was so cold, that the water in our water-vessels on deck had +been frozen for several preceding nights. + +Having clear weather at intervals, I spread the ships a-breast four miles +from each other, in order the better to discover any thing that might lie +in our way. We continued to sail in this manner till six o'clock in the +evening, when hazy weather and snow showers made it necessary for us to +join. + +We kept our course to N.E. till eight o'clock in the morning of the 25th, +when the wind having veered round to N.E. by E., by the W. and N. we +tacked, and stood to N.W. The wind was fresh, and yet we made but little +way against a high northerly sea. We now began to see some of that sort of +peterels so well known to sailors by the name of sheerwaters, latitude 58° +10', longitude 50° 54' E. In the afternoon the wind veered to the southward +of east; and at eight o'clock in the evening, it increased to a storm, +attended with thick hazy weather, sleet and snow. + +During night we went under our fore-sail and main-top-sail close-reefed: At +day-light the next morning, added to them the fore and mizen top-sails. At +four o'clock it fell calm; but a prodigious high sea from the N.E., and a +complication of the worst of weather, viz. snow, sleet, and rain, +continued, together with the calm, till nine o'clock in the evening. Then +the weather cleared up, and we got a breeze at S.E. by S. With this we +steered N. by E. till eight o'clock the next morning, being the 27th, when +I spread the ships, and steered N.N.E., all sails set, having a fresh +breeze at S. by W., and clear weather. + +At noon we were by observation, in the latitude of 56° 28' S., and, about +three o'clock in the afternoon, the sun and moon appearing at intervals, +their distances were observed by the following persons; and the longitude +resulting therefrom was, + +By Mr Wales, (the mean of two sets) 50° 59' East. +Lieutenant Clerke 51 11 +Mr Gilbert 50 14 +Mr Smith 50 50 +Mr Kendal's watch 50 50 + +At six o'clock in the evening, being in latitude 56° 9' S., I now made +signal to the Adventure to come under my stern; and at eight o'clock the +next morning sent her to look out on my starboard beam, having at this time +a fresh gale at west and pretty clear weather. But this was not of long +duration; for, at two in the afternoon, the sky became cloudy and hazy, the +wind increased to a fresh gale, blew in squalls attended with snow, sleet, +and drizzling rain. I now made signal to the Adventure to come under my +stern, and took another reef in each top-sail. At eight o'clock I hauled up +the main-sail, and run all night under the foresail, and two top-sails; our +course being N.N.E. and N.E. by N., with a strong gale at N.W. + +The 29th, at noon, we observed in latitude 52° 29' S., the weather being +fair and tolerably clear. But in the afternoon, it again became very thick +and hazy with rain; and the gale increased in such a manner as to oblige us +to strike top-gallant yards, close-reef and hand the top-sails. We spent +part of the night, which was very dark and stormy, in making a tack to the +S.W., and in the morning of the 30th, stood again to the N.E., wind at N.W. +and N., a very fresh gale; which split several of our small sails. This day +no ice was seen, probably owing to the thick hazy weather. At eight o'clock +in the evening we tacked and stood to the westward, under our courses; but +as the sea run high, we made our course no better than S.S.W. + +At four o'clock the next morning, the gale had a little abated; and the +wind had backed to W. by S. We again stood to the northward, under courses +and double-reefed top-sails, having a very high sea from the N.N.W., which +gave us but little hopes of finding the land we were in search of. At noon +we were in the latitude of 50° 56' S., longitude 56° 48' E., and presently +after we saw two islands of ice. One of these we passed very near, and +found that it was breaking or falling to pieces, by the cracking noise it +made; which was equal to the report of a four-pounder. There was a good +deal of loose ice about it; and had the weather been favourable, I should +have brought-to, and taken some up. After passing this, we saw no more, +till we returned again to the south. + +1773 February + +Hazy gloomy weather continued, and the wind remained invariably fixed at +N.W., so that we could make our course no better than N.E. by N., and this +course we held till four o'clock in the afternoon of the first of February. +Being then in the latitude of 48° 30', and longitude 58° 7' E., nearly in +the meridian of the island of Mauritius, and where we were to expect to +find the land said to be discovered by the French, of which at this time we +saw not the least signs, we bore away east. + +I now made the signal to the Adventure to keep at the distance of four +miles on my starboard beam. At half an hour past six, Captain Furneaux made +the signal to speak with me; and upon his coming under my stern, he +informed me that he had just seen a large float of sea or rock weed, and +about it several birds (divers.) These were certainly signs of the vicinity +of land; but whether it lay to the east or west, was not possible for us to +know. My intention was to have got into this latitude four or five degrees +of longitude to the west of the meridian we were in, and then to have +carried on my researches to the east. But the west and north-west winds we +had had the five preceding days, prevented me from putting this in +execution. + +The continual high sea we had lately had from the N.E., N., N.W. and W., +left me no reason to believe that land of any extent lay to the West. We +therefore continued to steer to the east, only lying-to a few hours in the +night, and in the morning resumed our course again, four miles north and +south from each other; the hazy weather not permitting us to spread +farther. We passed two or three small pieces of rock weed, and saw two or +three birds known by the name of egg-birds; but saw no other signs of land. +At noon we observed in latitude 48° 36' S., longitude 59° 35' E. As we +could only see a few miles farther to the south, and as it was not +impossible that there might be land not far off in that direction, I gave +orders to steer S. 1/2 E., and made the signal for the Adventure to follow, +she being by this movement thrown a-stern: The weather continuing hazy till +half an hour past six o'clock in the evening, when it cleared up so as to +enable us to see about five leagues round us. + +Being now in the latitude of 49° 13' S., without having the least signs of +land, I wore and stood again to the eastward, and soon after spoke with +Captain Furneaux. He told me that he thought the land was to the N.W. of +us,; as he had, at one time, observed the sea to be smooth when the wind +blew in that direction. Athough this was not conformable to the remarks +_we_ had made on the sea, I resolved to clear up the point, if the wind +would admit of my getting to the west in any reasonable time. + +At eight o'clock in the morning of the 3d, being in the latitude of 48° 56' +S. longitude 60° 47' E., and upwards of 8° to the east of the meridian of +the Mauritius, I began to despair of finding land to the east; and as the +wind had now veered to the north, resolved to search for it to the west. I +accordingly tacked and stood to the west with a fresh gale. This increased +in such a manner, that, before night, we were reduced to our two courses; +and, at last, obliged to lie-to under the fore-sails, having a prodigious +high sea from W.N.W., notwithstanding the height of the gale was from N. by +W. At three o'clock the next morning, the gale abating, we made sail, and +continued to ply to the west till ten o'clock in the morning of the 6th. + +At this time, being in the latitude of 48° 6' S., longitude 58° 22' E., the +wind seemingly fixed at W.N.W., and seeing no signs of meeting with land, I +gave over plying, and bore away east a little southerly: Being satisfied, +that if there is any land hereabout, it can only be an isle of no great +extent. And it was just as probable I might have found it to the E. as to +the W. + +While we were plying about here we took every opportunity to observe the +variation of the compass, and found it to be from 27° 50' to 30° 26' W. +Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29° 4', is the nearest the +truth, as it nearly agrees with the variation observed on board the +Adventure. In making these observations, we found that, when the sun was on +the larboard side of the ship, the variation was the least; and when on the +starboard side, the greatest. This was not the first time we had made this +observation, without being able to account for it. At four o'clock in the +morning of the 7th, I made the Adventure's signal to keep at the distance +of four miles on my starboard beam; and continued to steer E.S.E. This +being a fine day, I had all our men's bedding and clothes spread on deck to +air; and the ship cleaned and smoked betwixt decks. At noon I steered a +point more to the south, being then in the latitude of 45° 49' S., +longitude 61° 48' E. At six o'clock in the evening, I called in the +Adventure; and at the same time took several azimuths, which gave the +variation 31° 28'.W. These observations could not be taken with the +greatest accuracy, on account of the rolling of the ship, occasioned by a +very high westerly swell. + +The preceding evening, three Port Egmont hens were seen; this morning +another appeared. In the evening, and several times in the night, penguins +were heard; and, at daylight in the morning of the 8th, several of these +were seen; and divers of two sorts, seemingly such as are usually met with +on the coast of England. This occasioned us to sound, but we found no +ground with a line of 210 fathoms. Our latitude now was 49° 53' S., and +longitude 63° 39' E. This was at eight o'clock. By this time the wind had +veered round by the N.E. to E., blew a brisk gale, and was attended with +hazy weather, which soon after turned to a thick fog; and, at the same +tine, the wind shifted to N.E. + +I continued to keep the wind on the larboard tack, and to fire a gun every +hour till noon; when I made the signal to tack, and tacked accordingly. +But, as neither this signal, nor any of the former, was answered by the +Adventure, we had but too much reason to think that a separation had taken +place; though we were at a loss to tell how it had been effected. I had +directed Captain Furneaux, in case he was separated from me, to cruise +three days in the place where he last saw me. I therefore continued making +short boards, and firing half-hour guns, till the 9th in the afternoon, +when, the weather having cleared up, we could see several leagues round us, +and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of our horizon. At +this time we were about two or three leagues to the eastward of the +situation we were in when we last saw her; and were standing to the +westward with a very strong gale at N.N.W., accompanied with a great sea +from the same direction. This, together, with an increase of wind, obliged +us to lie-to till eight o'clock the next morning, during which time we saw +nothing of the Adventure, notwithstanding the weather was pretty clear, and +we had kept firing guns, and burning false fires, all night. I therefore +gave over looking for her, made sail, and steered S.E., with a very fresh +gale at W. by N., accompanied with a high sea from the same direction. + +While we were beating about here; we frequently saw penguins and divers, +which made us conjecture the land was not far off; but in what direction it +was not possible for us to tell. As we advanced to the south, we lost the +penguins, and most of the divers; and, as usual, met with abundance of +albatrosses, blue peterels, sheer-waters, &c. + +The 11th, at noon, and in the latitude of 51° 15' S., longitude 67° 20' E., +we again met with penguins: and saw an egg bird, which we also look upon to +be a sign of the vicinity of land. I continued to steer to the S.E., with a +fresh gale in the north-west quarter, attended with a long hollow swell, +and frequent showers of rain, hail, and snow. The 12th, in the morning, +being in the latitude of 52° 32' S., longitude 69° 47' E., the variation +was 31° 38' W. In the evening, in the latitude of 53° 7' S., longitude 70° +50' E., it was 32° 33'; and, the next morning, in the latitude of 53° 37' +S., longitude 72° 10', it was 33° 8' W. Thus far we had continually a great +number of penguins about the ship, which seemed to be different from those +we had seen near the ice; being smaller, with reddish bills and brownish +heads. The meeting with so many of these birds, gave us some hopes of +finding land, and occasioned various conjectures about its situation. The +great westerly swell, which still continued, made it improbable that land +of any considerable extent lay to the west. Nor was it very probable that +any lay to the north; as we were only about 160 leagues to the south of +Tasman's track in 1642; and I conjectured that Captain Furneaux would +explore this place; which accordingly happened. In the evening we saw a +Port Egmont hen, which flew away in the direction of N.E. by E., and the +next morning a seal was seen; but no penguins. In the evening, being in the +latitude of 55° 49' S., longitude 75° 52' E., the variation was 34° 48' W., +and, in the evening of the 15th, in latitude 57° 2' S., longitude 79° 56' +E., it was 38° W. Five seals were seen this day, and a few penguins; which +occasioned us to sound, without finding any bottom, with a line of 150 +fathoms. + +At day-light in the morning of the 16th, we saw an island of ice to the +northward; for which we steered, in order to take some on board; but the +wind shifting to that direction, hindered us from putting this in +execution. At this time we were in the latitude of 57° 8' S., longitude 80° +59' E., and had two islands of ice in sight. This morning we saw one +penguin, which appeared to be of the same sort which we had formerly seen +near the ice. But we had now been so often deceived by these birds, that we +could no longer look upon them, nor indeed upon any other oceanic birds, +which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of the vicinity of land. + +The wind continued not long at north, but veered to E. by N.E., and blew a +gentle gale, with which we stood to the southward; having frequent showers +of sleet and snow. But, in the night, we had fair weather, and a clear +serene sky; and, between midnight and three o'clock in the morning, lights +were seen in the heavens, similar to those in the northern hemisphere, +known by the name of Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights; but I never heard +of the Aurora Australia been seen before. The officer of the watch observed +that it sometimes broke out in spiral rays, and in a circular form; then +its light was very strong, and its appearance beautiful. He could not +perceive it had any particular direction; for it appeared, at various +times, in different parts of the heavens, and diffused its light throughout +the whole atmosphere. + +At nine in the morning, we bore down to an island of ice which we reached +by noon. It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred feet high at +least, though very little loose ice about it. But while we were considering +whether or no we should hoist out our boats to take some up, a great +quantity broke from the island. Upon this we hoisted out our boats, and +went to work to get some on board. The pieces of ice, both great and small, +which broke from the island, I observed, drifted fast to the westward; that +is, they left the island in that direction, and were, in a few hours, +spread over a large space of sea. This, I have no doubt, was caused by a +current setting in that direction. For the wind could have but little +effect upon the ice; especially as there was a large hollow swell from the +west. This circumstance greatly retarded our taking up ice. We, however, +made a shift to get on board about nine or ten tons before eight o'clock, +when we hoisted in the boats and made sail to the east, inclining to the +south, with a fresh gale at south; which, soon after, veered to S.S.W. and +S.W., with fair but cloudy weather. This course brought us among many ice +isles; so that it was necessary to proceed with great caution. In the night +the mercury in the thermometer fell two degrees below the freezing point; +and the water in the scuttle casks on deck was frozen. As I have not taken +notice of the thermometer of late, I shall now observe, that, as we +advanced to the north, the mercury gradually rose to 45, and fell again, as +we advanced to the south, to what is above-mentioned; nor did it rise, in +the middle of the day, to above 34 or 35. + +In the morning of the 18th, being in the latitude of 57° 54' S., longitude +83° 14' E., the variation was 39° 33' W. In the evening, in latitude 58° 2' +S., longitude 84° 35' E., it was only 37° 8' W., which induced me to +believe it was decreasing. But in the evening of the 20th, in the latitude +of 58° 47' S., longitude 90° 56' E., I took nine azimuths, with Dr Knight's +compass, which gave the variation 40° 7', and nine others, with Gregory's, +which gave 40° 15' W. + +This day, at noon, being nearly in the latitude and longitude just +mentioned, we thought we saw land to the S.W. The appearance was so strong +that we doubted not it was there in reality, and tacked to work up to it +accordingly; having a light breeze at south, and clear weather. We were, +however, soon undeceived, by finding that it was only clouds; which, in the +evening, entirely disappeared, and left us a clear horizon, so that we +could see a considerable way round us; in which space nothing was to be +seen but ice islands. + +In the night the Aurora Australis made a very brilliant and luminous +appearance. It was seen first in the east, a little above the horizon; and, +in a short time, spread over the whole heavens. + +The 21st, in the morning, having little wind and a smooth sea, two +favourable circumstances for taking up ice, I steered for the largest ice +island before us, which we reached by noon. At this time, we were in the +latitude of 59° S., longitude 92° 30' E.; having about two hours before +seen three or four penguins. Finding here a good quantity of loose ice, I +ordered two boats out, and sent them to take some on board. While this was +doing, the island, which was not less than half a mile in circuit, and +three or four hundred feet high above the surface of the sea, turned nearly +bottom up. Its height, by this circumstance, was neither increased nor +diminished apparently. As soon as we had got on board as much ice as we +could dispose of, we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S.E., with +a gentle breeze at N. by E., attended with showers of snow, and dark gloomy +weather. At this time we had but few ice islands in sight, but, the next +day, seldom less than twenty or thirty were seen at once. + +The wind gradually veered to the east; and, at last, fixing at E. by S., +blew a fresh gale. With this we stood to the south, till eight o'clock in +the evening of the 23d; at which time we were in the latitude of 61° 52' +S., longitude 95° 2' E. We now tacked and spent the night, which was +exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, in making short +boards. Surrounded on every side with danger, it was natural for us to wish +for day-light. This, when it came, served only to increase our +apprehensions, by exhibiting to our view those huge mountains of ice, which +in the night we had passed without seeing. + +These unfavourable circumstances, together with dark nights, at this +advanced season of the year, quite discouraged me from putting in execution +a resolution I had taken of crossing the Antarctic Circle once more. +Accordingly, at four o'clock in the morning, we stood to the north, with a +very hard gale at E.S.E., accompanied with snow and sleet, and a very high +sea from the same point, which made great destruction among the ice +islands. This circumstance, far from being of any advantage to us, greatly +increased the number of pieces we had to avoid. The large pieces which +break from the ice islands, are much more dangerous than the islands +themselves. The latter are so high out of water, that we can generally see +them, unless the weather be very thick and dark, before we are very near +them. Whereas the others cannot be seen in the night, till they are under +the ship's bows. These dangers were, however, now become so familiar to us, +that the apprehensions they caused were never of long duration; and were, +in some measure, compensated both by the seasonable supplies of fresh water +these ice islands afforded us, (without which we must have been greatly +distressed,) and also by their very romantic appearance, greatly heightened +by the foaming and dashing of the waves into the curious holes and caverns +which are formed in many of them; the whole exhibiting a view which at once +filled the mind with admiration and horror, and can only be described by +the hand of an able painter. + +Towards the evening the gale abated, and in the night we had two or three +hours calm. This was succeeded by a light breeze at west, with which we +steered east, under all the sail we could set, meeting with many ice +islands. + +This night we saw a Port Egmont hen; and next morning, being the 25th, +another. We had lately seen but few birds; and those were albatrosses, +sheer-waters, and blue peterels. It is remarkable that we did not see one +of either the white or Antarctic peterels, since we came last amongst the +ice. Notwithstanding the wind kept at W. and N.W. all day, we had a very +high sea from the east, by which we concluded that no land could be near in +that direction. In the evening, being in the latitude 60° 51', longitude +95° 41' E., the variation was 43° 6' W., and the next morning, being the +26th, having advanced about a degree and a half more to the east, it was +41° 30', both being determined by several azimuths. + +We had fair weather all the afternoon, but the wind was unsettled, veering +round by the north to the east. With this we stood to the S.E. and E., till +three o'clock in the afternoon; when, being in the latitude of 61° 21' S., +longitude 97° 7', we tacked and stood to the northward and eastward as the +wind kept veering to the south. This, in the evening, increased to a strong +gale, blew in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and thick hazy +weather, which soon brought us under our close-reefed top-sails. + +Between eight in the morning of the 26th, and noon the next day, we fell in +among several islands of ice; from whence such vast quantities had broken +as to cover the sea all round us, and render sailing rather dangerous. +However, by noon, we were clear of it all. In the evening the wind abated, +and veered to S.W. but the weather did not clear up till the next morning, +when we were able to carry all our sails, and met with but very few islands +of ice to impede us. Probably the late gale had destroyed a great number of +them. Such a very large hollow sea had continued to accompany the wind as +it veered from E. to S.W. that I was certain no land of considerable extent +could lie within 100 or 150 leagues of our situation between these two +points. + +The mean height of the thermometer at noon, for some days past, was at +about 35, which is something higher than it usually was in the same +latitude about a month or five weeks before, consequently the air was +something warmer. While the weather was really _warm_, the gales were +not only stronger, but more frequent, with almost continual misty, dirty, +wet weather. The very animals we had on board felt its effects. A sow +having in the morning farrowed nine pigs, every one of them was killed by +the cold before four o'clock in the afternoon, notwithstanding all the care +we could take of them. From the same cause, myself as well as several of my +people, had fingers and toes chilblained. Such is the summer weather we +enjoyed! + +1773 March + +The wind continued unsettled, veering from the south to the west, and blew +a fresh gale till the evening. Then it fell little wind, and soon after a +breeze sprung up at north, which quickly veered to N.E. and N.E. by E., +attended with a thick fog, snow, sleet, and rain. With this wind and +weather we kept on to the S.E., till four o'clock in the afternoon of the +next day, being the first of March, when it fell calm, which continued for +near twenty-four hours. We were now in the latitude of 60° 36' S., +longitude 107° 54', and had a prodigious high swell from the S.W., and, at +the same time, another from the S. or S.S.E. The dashing of the one wave +against the other, made the ship both roll and pitch exceedingly; but at +length the N.W. swell prevailed. The calm continued till noon the next day, +when it was succeeded by a gentle breeze from S.E., which afterwards +increased and veered to S.W. With this we steered N.E. by E., and E. by N., +under all the sail we could set. + +In the afternoon of the 3d, being in latitude 60° 13', longitude 110° 18', +the variation was 39° 4' W. But the observations, by which this was +determined, were none of the best, being obliged to make use of such as we +could get, during the very few and short intervals when the sun appeared. A +few penguins were seen this day, but not so many islands of ice as usual. +The weather was also milder, though very changeable; thermometer from 36 to +38. We continued to have a N.W. swell, although the wind was unsettled, +veering to N.W. by the W. and N., attended with hazy sleet and drizzling +rain. + +We prosecuted our course to the east, inclining to the south, till three +o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th, when, (being in the latitude of 60° +37', longitude 113° 24') the wind shifting at once to S.W. and S.W. by S., +I gave orders to steer E. by N. 1/2 N. But in the night we steered E. 1/2 +S. in order to have the wind, which was at S.S.W., more upon the beam, the +better to enable us to stand back, in case we fell in with any danger in +the dark. For we had not so much time to spare to allow us to lie-to. + +In the morning of the 5th, we steered E. by N., under all the sail we could +set, passing one ice island and many small pieces, and at nine o'clock the +wind, which of late had not remained long upon any one point, shifted all +at once to east, and blew a gentle gale. With this, we stood to the north, +at which time we were in the latitude of 60° 44' S., and longitude 116° 50' +E. The latitude was determined by the meridian altitude of the sun, which +appeared, now and then, for a few minutes, till three in the afternoon. +Indeed the sky was, in general, so cloudy, and the weather so thick and +hazy, that we had very little benefit of sun or moon; very seldom seeing +the face of either the one or the other. And yet, even under these +circumstances, the weather, for some days past, could not be called very +cold. It, however, had not the least pretension to be called summer +weather, according to my ideas of summer in the northern hemisphere, as far +as 60° of latitude, which is nearly as far north as I have been. + +In the evening we had three islands of ice in sight, all of them large; +especially one, which was larger than any we had yet seen. The side opposed +to us seemed to be a mile in extent; if so, it could not be less than three +in circuit. As we passed it in the night, a continual cracking was heard, +occasioned, no doubt, by pieces breaking from it. For, in the morning of +the 6th, the sea, for some distance round it, was covered with large and +small pieces; and the island itself did not appear so large as it had done +the evening before. It could not be less than 100 feet high; yet such was +the impetuous force and height of the waves which were broken against it, +by meeting with such a sudden resistance, that they rose considerably +higher. In the evening we were in latitude of 59° 58' S., longitude 118° +39' E. The 7th, the wind was variable in the N.E. and S.E. quarters, +attended with snow and sleet till the evening. Then the weather became +fair, the sky cleared up, and the night was remarkably pleasant, as well as +the morning of the next day; which, for the brightness of the sky, and +serenity and mildness of the weather, gave place to none we had seen since +we left the Cape of Good Hope. It was such as is little known in this sea; +and to make it still more agreeable, we had not one island of ice in sight. +The mercury in the thermometer rose to 40. Mr Wales and the master made +some observations of the moon and stars, which satisfied us, that, when our +latitude was 59° 44', our longitude was 121° 9'. At three o'clock in the +afternoon, the calm was succeeded by a breeze at S.E. The sky, at the same +time, was suddenly obscured, and seemed to presage an approaching storm, +which accordingly happened. For, in the evening, the wind shifted to south, +blew in squalls, attended with sleet and rain, and a prodigious high sea. +Having nothing to take care of but ourselves, we kept two or three points +from the wind, and run at a good rate to the E.N.E. under our two courses, +and close-reefed topsails. + +The gale continued till the evening of the 10th. Then it abated; the wind +shifted to the westward; and we had fair weather, and but little wind, +during the night; attended with a sharp frost. The next morning, being in +the latitude of 57° 56', longitude 130°, the wind shifted to N.E., and blew +a fresh gale, with which we stood S.E., having frequent showers of snow and +sleet, and a long hollow swell from S.S.E. and S.E. by S. This swell did +not go down till two days after the wind which raised it had not only +ceased to blow, but had shifted, and blown fresh at opposite points, good +part of the time. Whoever attentively considers this, must conclude, that +there can be no land to the south, but what must be at a great distance. + +Notwithstanding so little was to be expected in that quarter, we continued +to stand to the south till three o'clock in the morning of the 12th, when +we were stopped by a calm; being then in the latitude of 58° 56' S., +longitude 131° 26' E. After a few hours calm, a breeze sprung up at west, +with which we steered east. The S.S.E. swell having gone down, was +succeeded by another from N.W. by W. The weather continued mild all this +day, and the mercury rose to 39-1/2. In the evening it fell calm, and +continued so till three o'clock in the morning of the 13th, when we got the +wind at E. and S.E., a fresh breeze attended with snow and sleet. In the +afternoon it became fair, and the wind veered round to the S. and S.S.W. In +the evening, being in the latitude of 58° 59', longitude 134°, the weather +was so clear in the horizon, that we could see many leagues round us. We +had but little wind during the night, some showers of snow, and a very +sharp frost. As the day broke, the wind freshened at S.E. and S.S.E.; and +soon after, the sky cleared up, and the weather became clear and serene; +but the air continued cold, and the mercury in the thermometer rose only +one degree above the freezing point. + +The clear weather gave Mr Wales an opportunity to get some observations of +the sun and moon. Their results reduced to noon, when the latitude was 58° +22' S., gave us 136° 22' E. longitude. Mr Kendal's watch at the same time +gave 134° 42'; and that of Mr Arnold the same. This was the first and only +time they pointed out the same longitude since we left England. The +greatest difference, however, between them, since we left the Cape, had not +much exceeded two degrees. + +The moderate, and I might almost say, pleasant weather, we had, at times, +for the last two or three days, made me wish I had been a few degrees of +latitude farther south; and even tempted me to incline our course that way. +But we soon had weather which convinced us that we were full far enough; +and that the time was approaching, when these seas were not to be navigated +without enduring intense cold; which, by the bye, we were pretty well used +to. In the afternoon, the serenity of the sky was presently obscured: The +wind veered round by the S.W. to W., and blew in hard squalls, attended +with thick and heavy showers of hail and snow, which continually covered +our decks, sails, and rigging, till five o'clock in the evening of the +15th. At this time, the wind abated, and shifted to S.E.; the sky cleared +up; and the evening was so serene and clear, that we could see many leagues +round us; the horizon being the only boundary to our sight. + +We were now in the latitude of 59° 17' S., longitude 140° 12' E., and had +such a large hollow swell from W.S.W., as assured us that we had left no +land behind us in that direction. I was also well assured that no land lay +to the south on this side 60° of latitude. We had a smart frost during the +night, which was curiously illuminated with the southern lights. + +At ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, (which was as soon as the sun +appeared,) in the latitude of 58° 51' S., our longitude was 144° 10' E. +This good weather was, as usual, of short duration. In the afternoon of +this day, we had again thick snow showers; but, at intervals, it was +tolerably clear; and, in the evening being in the latitude of 58° 58' S., +longitude 144° 37' E., I found the variation by several azimuths to be +31' E. + +I was not a little pleased with being able to determine, with so much +precision, this point of the Line, in which the compass has no variation. +For I look upon half a degree as next to nothing; so that the intersection +of the latitude and longitude just mentioned, may be reckoned the point +without any sensible error. At any rate, the Line can only pass a very +small matter west of it. + +I continued to steer to the east, inclining to the south, with a fresh gale +at S.W., till five o'clock the next morning, when, being in the latitude of +59° 7' S., longitude 146° 53' E., I bore away N.E., and, at noon, north, +having come to a resolution to quit the high southern latitudes, and to +proceed to New Zealand to look for the Adventure, and to refresh my people. +I had also some thoughts, and even a desire to visit the east coast of Van +Diemen's Land, in order to satisfy myself if it joined the coast of New +South Wales. + +In the night of the 17th, the wind shifted to N.W., and blew in squalls, +attended with thick hazy weather and rain. This continued all the 18th, in +the evening of which day, being in the latitude of 56° 15' S., longitude +150°, the sky cleared up, and we found the variation by several azimuths to +be 13° 30' E. Soon after, we hauled up, with the log, a piece of rock-weed, +which was in a state of decay, and covered with barnacles. In the night the +southern lights were very bright. + +The next morning we saw a seal; and towards noon, some penguins, and more +rock-weed, being at this time in the latitude of 55° 1', longitude 152° 1' +E. In the latitude of 54° 4', we also saw a Port Egmont hen, and some weed. +Navigators have generally looked upon all these to be certain signs of the +vicinity of land; I cannot, however, support this opinion. At this time we +knew of no land, nor is it even probable that there is any, nearer than New +Holland, or Van Diemen's Land, from which we were distant 260 leagues. We +had, at the same time, several porpoises playing about us; into one of +which Mr Cooper struck a harpoon; but as the ship was running seven knots, +it broke its hold, after towing it some minutes, and before we could deaden +the ship's way. + +As the wind, which continued between the north and the west, would not +permit me to touch at Van Diemen's Land, I shaped my course to New Zealand; +and, being under no apprehensions of meeting with any danger, I was not +backward in carrying sail, as well by night as day, having the advantage of +a very strong gale, which was attended with hazy rainy weather, and a very +large swell from the W. and W.S.W. We continued to meet with, now and then, +a seal, Port Egmont hens, and sea-weed. + +On the morning of the 22d, the wind shifted to south, and brought with it +fair weather. At noon, we found ourselves in the latitude of 49° 55', +longitude 159° 28', having a very large swell out of the S.W. For the three +days past, the mercury in the thermometer had risen to 46, and the weather +was quite mild. Seven or eight degrees of latitude had made a surprising +difference in the temperature of the air, which we felt with an agreeable +satisfaction. + +We continued to advance to the N.E. at a good rate, having a brisk gale +between the S. and E.; meeting with seals, Port Egmont hens, egg birds, +sea-weed, &c. and having constantly a very large swell from the S.W. At ten +o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the land of New Zealand was seen from +the mast-head; and at noon, from the deck; extending from N.E. by E. to E., +distant ten leagues. As I intended to put into Dusky Bay, or any other port +I could find, on the southern part of _Tavai Poenammoo_, we steered in +for the land, under all the sail we could carry, having the advantage of a +fresh gale at W., and tolerably clear weather. This last was not of long +duration; for, at half an hour after four o'clock, the land, which was not +above four miles distant, was in a manner wholly obscured in a thick haze. +At this time, we were before the entrance of a bay, which I had mistaken +for Dusky Bay, being deceived by some islands that lay in the mouth of it. + +Fearing to run, in thick weather, into a place to which we were all +strangers, and seeing some breakers and broken ground a-head, I tacked in +twenty-five fathom water, and stood out to sea with the wind at N.W. This +bay lies on the S.E. side of Cape West, and may be known by a white cliff +on one of the isles which lies in the entrance of the bay. This part of the +coast I did not see, but at a great distance, in my former voyage; and we +now saw it under so many disadvantageous circumstances, that the less I say +about it, the fewer mistakes I shall make. We stood out to sea, under +close-reefed top-sails and courses, till eleven o'clock at night; when we +wore and stood to the northward, having a very high and irregular sea. At +five o'clock next morning, the gale abated, and we bore up for the land; at +eight o'clock, the West Cape bore E. by N. 1/2 N., for which we steered, +and entered Dusky Bay about noon. In the entrance of it, we found 44 +fathoms water, a sandy bottom, the West Cape bearing S.S.E., and Five +Fingers Point, or the north point of the bay, north. Here we had a great +swell rolling in from the S.W. The depth of water decreased to 40 fathoms, +afterwards we had no ground with 60. We were, however, too far advanced to +return; and therefore stood on, not doubting but that we should find +anchorage. For in this bay we were all strangers; in my former voyage, +having done no more than discover and name it. + +After running about two leagues up the bay, and passing several of the +isles which lay in it, I brought-to, and hoisted out two boats; one of +which I sent away with an officer round a point on the larboard hand to +look for anchorage. This he found, and signified the same by signal. We +then followed with the ship, and anchored in 50 fathoms water, so near the +shore as to reach it with an hawser. This was on Friday the 26th of March, +at three in the afternoon, after having been 117 days at sea; in which time +we had sailed 3600 leagues, without having once sight of land. + +After such a long continuance at sea, in a high southern latitude, it is +but reasonable to think that many of my people must be ill of the scurvy. +The contrary, however, happened. Mention hath already been made of sweet +wort being given to such as were scorbutic. This had so far the desired +effect, that we had only one man on board that could be called very ill of +this disease; occasioned chiefly, by a bad habit of body, and a +complication of other disorders. We did not attribute the general good +state of health in the crew, wholly to the sweet wort, but to the frequent +airing and sweetening the ship by fires, &c. We must also allow portable +broth, and sour krout, to have had some share in it. This last can never be +enough recommended. + +My first care, after the ship was moored, was to send a boat and people a- +fishing; in the mean time, some of the gentlemen killed a seal, (out of +many that were upon a rock,) which made us a fresh meal. + +CHAPTER IV. + +_Transactions in Dusky Bay, with an Account of several Interviews with +the Inhabitants._ + +1773 March + +As I did not like the place we had anchored in, I sent Lieutenant +Pickersgill over to the S.E. side of the bay, to search for a better; and I +went myself to the other side, for the same purpose, where I met with an +exceedingly snug harbour, but nothing else worthy of notice. Mr Pickersgill +reported, upon his return, that he had found a good harbour, with every +conveniency. As I liked the situation of this, better than the other of my +own finding, I determined to go there in the morning. The fishing-boat was +very successful; returning with fish sufficient for all hands for supper; +and, in a few hours in the morning, caught as many as served for dinner. +This gave us certain hopes of being plentifully supplied with this article. +Nor did the shores and woods appear less destitute of wild fowl; so that we +hoped to enjoy with ease, what, in our situation, might be called the +luxuries of life. This determined me to stay some time in this bay, in +order to examine it thoroughly; as no one had ever landed before, on any of +the southern parts of this country. + +On the 27th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we got under sail with a light +breeze at S.W., and working over to Pickersgill harbour, entered it by a +channel scarcely twice the width of the ship; and in a small creek, moored +head and stern, so near the shore as to reach it with a brow or stage, +which nature had in a manner prepared for us in a large tree, whose end or +top reached our gunwale. Wood, for fuel and other purposes, was here so +convenient, that our yards were locked in the branches of the trees; and, +about 100 yards from our stern, was a fine stream of freshwater. Thus +situated, we began to clear places in the woods, in order to set up the +astronomer's observatory, the forge to repair our iron-work, tents for the +sail-makers and coopers to repair the sails and casks in; to land our empty +casks, to fill water, and to cut down wood for fuel; all of which were +absolutely necessary occupations. We also began to brew beer from the +branches or leaves of a tree, which much resembles the American black- +spruce. From the knowledge I had of this tree, and the similarity it bore +to the spruce, I judged that, with the addition of inspissated juice of +wort and molasses, it would make a very wholesome beer, and supply the want +of vegetables, which this place did not afford; and the event proved that I +was not mistaken. + +Now I have mentioned the inspissated juice of wort, it will not be amiss, +in this place, to inform the reader, that I had made several trials of it +since I left the Cape of Good Hope, and found it to answer in a cold +climate, beyond all expectation. The juice, diluted in warm water, in the +proportion of twelve parts water to one part juice, made a very good and +well-tasted small-beer. Some juice which I had of Mr Pelham's own +preparing, would bear sixteen parts water. By making use of warm-water, +(which I think ought always to be done,) and keeping it in a warm place, if +the weather be cold, no difficulty will be found in fermenting it. A little +grounds of either small or strong-beer, will answer as well as yeast. + +The few sheep and goats we had left were not likely to fare quite so well +as ourselves; there being no grass here, but what was coarse and harsh. It +was, however not so bad, but that we expected they would devour it with +great greediness, and were the more surprised to find that they would not +taste it; nor did they seem over-fond of the leaves of more tender plants. +Upon examination, we found their teeth loose; and that many of them had +every other symptom of an inveterate sea-scurvy. Out of four ewes and two +rams which I brought from the Cape, with an intent to put ashore in this +country, I had only been able to preserve one of each; and even these were +in so bad a state, that it was doubtful if they could recover, +notwithstanding all the care possible had been taken of them. + +Some of the officers, on the 28th, went up the bay in a small boat on a +shooting party; but, discovering inhabitants, they returned before noon, to +acquaint me therewith; for hitherto we had not seen the least vestige of +any. They had but just got aboard, when a canoe appeared off a point about +a mile from us, and soon after, returned behind the point out of sight, +probably owing to a shower of rain which then fell; for it was no sooner +over, than the canoe again appeared, and came within musket-shot of the +ship. There were in it seven or eight people. They remained looking at us +for some time, and then returned; all the signs of friendship we could make +did not prevail on them to come nearer. After dinner I took two boats and +went in search of them, in the cove where they were first seen, accompanied +by several of the officers and gentlemen. We found the canoe (at least +a-canoe) hauled upon the shore near to two small huts, where were several +fire-places, some fishing-nets, a few fish lying on the shore, and some in +the canoe. But we saw no people; they probably had retired into the woods. +After a short stay, and leaving in the canoe some medals, looking-glasses, +beads, &c. we embarked and rowed to the head of the cove, where we found +nothing remarkable. In turning back we put ashore at the same place as +before; but still saw no people. However, they could not be far off, as we +smelled the smoke of fire, though we did not see it. But I did not care to +search farther, or to force an interview which they seemed to avoid; well +knowing that the way to obtain this, was to leave the time and place to +themselves. It did not appear that any thing I had left had been touched; +however, I now added a hatchet, and, with the night, returned on board. + +On the 29th, were showers till the afternoon; when a party of the officers +made an excursion up the bay; and Mr Forster and his party were out +botanizing. Both parties returned in the evening without meeting with any +thing worthy of notice; and the two following days, every one was confined +to the ship on account of rainy stormy weather. + +1773 April + +In the afternoon of the 1st of April, accompanied by several of the +gentlemen, I went to see if any of the articles I had left for the Indians +were taken away. We found every thing remaining in the canoe; nor did it +appear that any body had been there since. After shooting some birds, one +of which was a duck, with a blue-grey plumage and soft bill, we, in the +evening, returned on board. + +The 2d, being a pleasant morning, Lieutenants Clerke and Edgecumbe, and the +two Mr Forsters, went in a boat up the bay to search for the productions of +nature; and myself, Lieutenant Pickersgill, and Mr Hodges, went to take a +view of the N.W. side. In our way, we touched at the seal-rock, and killed +three seals, one of which afforded us much sport. After passing several +isles, we at length came to the most northern and western arms of the bay; +the same as is formed by the land of Five Fingers Point. In the bottom of +this arm or cove, we found many ducks, wood-hens, and other wild fowl, some +of which we killed, and returned on board at ten o'clock in the evening; +where the other party had arrived several hours before us, after having had +but indifferent sport. They took with them a black dog we had got at the +Cape, who, at the first musket they fired, ran into the woods, from whence +he would not return. The three following days were rainy; so that no +excursions were made. + +Early in the morning on the 6th, a shooting party, made up of the officers, +went to Goose Cove, the place where I was the 2d; and myself, accompanied +by the two Mr Forsters, and Mr Hodges, set out to continue the survey of +the bay. My attention was directed to the north side, where I discovered a +fine capacious cove, in the bottom of which is a fresh-water river; on the +west side several beautiful small cascades; and the shores are so steep +that a ship might lie near enough to convey the water into her by a hose. +In this cove we shot fourteen ducks, besides other birds, which occasioned +my calling it Duck Cove. + +As we returned in the evening, we had a short interview with three of the +natives, one man and two women. They were the first that discovered +themselves on the N.E. point of Indian Island, named so on this occasion. +We should have passed without seeing them, had not the man hallooed to us. +He stood with his club in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind +him, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, with each of them a +spear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when we +approached the rock with our boat. He however stood firm; nor did he move +to take up some things we threw him ashore. At length I landed, went up and +embraced him; and presented him with such articles as I had about me, which +at once dissipated his fears. Presently after, we were joined by the two +women, the gentlemen that were with me, and some of the seamen. After this, +we spent about half an hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side, +in which the youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This +occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tongue in any +part of the world. We presented them with fish and fowl which we had in our +boat; but these they threw into the boat again, giving us to understand +that such things they wanted not. Night approaching, obliged us to take +leave of them; when the youngest of the two women, whose volubility of +tongue exceeded every thing I ever met with, gave us a dance; but the man +viewed us with great attention. Some hours after we got on board, the other +party returned, having had but indifferent sport. + +Next morning, I made the natives another visit, accompanied by Mr Forster +and Mr Hodges, carrying with me various articles which I presented them +with, and which they received with a great deal of indifference, except +hatchets and spike-nails; these they most esteemed. This interview was at +the same place as last night; and now we saw the whole family, it consisted +of the man, his two wives (as we supposed), the young woman before +mentioned, a boy about fourteen years old, and three small children, the +youngest of which was at the breast. They were all well-looking, except one +woman, who had a large wen on her upper-lip, which made her disagreeable; +and she seemed, on that account, to be in a great measure neglected by the +man. They conducted us to their habitation, which was but a little way +within the skirts of the wood, and consisted of two mean huts made of the +bark of trees. Their canoe, which was a small double one, just large enough +to transport the whole family from place to place, lay in a small creek +near the huts. During our stay, Mr Hodges made drawings of most of them; +this occasioned them to give him the name of _Toe-toe_, which word, we +suppose signifies marking or painting. When we took leave, the chief +presented me with a piece of cloth or garment of their own manufacturing, +and some other trifles. I at first thought it was meant as a return for the +presents I had made him; but he soon undeceived me, by expressing a desire +for one of our boat cloaks. I took the hint, and ordered one to be made for +him of red baise, as soon as I got aboard; where rainy weather detained me +the following day. + +The 9th, being fair weather, we paid the natives another visit, and made +known our approach by hallooing to them; but they neither answered us, nor +met us at the shore as usual. The reason of this we soon saw; for we found +them at their habitations, all dressed and dressing, in their very best, +with their hair combed and oiled, tied up upon the crowns of their heads, +and stuck with white feathers. Some wore a fillet of feathers round their +heads; and all of them had bunches of white feathers stuck in their ears: +Thus dressed, and all standing, they received us with great courtesy. I +presented the chief with the cloak I had got made for him, with which he +seemed so well pleased, that he took his pattapattou from his girdle and +gave it me. After a short stay, we took leave; and having spent the +remainder of the day in continuing my survey of the bay, with the night +returned on board. + +Very heavy rains falling on the two following days, no work was done; but +the 12th proved clear and serene, and afforded us an opportunity to dry our +sails and linen; two things very much wanted; not having had fair weather +enough for this purpose since we put into this bay. Mr Forster and his +party also profited by the day in botanizing. + +About ten o'clock, the family of the natives paid us a visit. Seeing that +they approached the ship with great caution, I met them in a boat, which I +quitted when I got to them, and went into their canoe. Yet, after all, I +could not prevail on them to put along-side the ship, and at last was +obliged to leave them to follow their own inclination. At length they put +ashore in a little creek hard by us; and afterwards came and sat down on +the shore a-breast of the ship, near enough to speak with us. I now caused +the bagpipes and fife to play, and the drum to beat. The two first they did +not regard; but the latter caused some little attention in them; nothing +however could induce them to come on board. But they entered, with great +familiarity, into conversation (little understood) with such of the +officers and seamen as went to them, paying much greater regard to some +than to others; and these, we had reason to believe, they took for women. +To one man in particular, the young woman shewed an extraordinary fondness +until she discovered his sex, after which she would not suffer him to come +near her. Whether it was that she before took him for one of her own sex, +or that the man, in order to discover himself, had taken some liberties +with her which she thus resented, I know not. + +In the afternoon, I took Mr Hodges to a large cascade, which falls from a +high mountain on the south side of the bay, about a league above the place +where we lay. He made a drawing of it on paper, and afterwards painted it +in oil colours; which exhibits, at once, a better description of it than +any I can give. Huge heaps of stones lay at the foot of this cascade, which +had been broken off and brought by the stream from the adjacent mountains. +These stones were of different sorts; none however, according to Mr +Forster's opinion, (whom I believe to be a judge,) containing either +minerals or metals. Nevertheless, I brought away specimens of every sort, +as the whole country, that is, the rocky part of it, seemed to consist of +those stones and no other. This cascade is at the east point of a cove, +lying in S.W. two miles, which I named Cascade Cove. In it is good +anchorage and other necessaries. At the entrance, lies an island, on each +side of which is a passage; that on the east side is much the widest. A +little above the isle, and near the S.E. shore, are two rocks which are +covered at high water. It was in this cove we first saw the natives. + +When I returned aboard in the evening, I found our friends, the natives, +had taken up their quarters at about a hundred yards from our watering- +place; a very great mark of the confidence they placed in us. This evening +a shooting party of the officers went over to the north side of the bay, +having with them the small cutter to convey them from place to place. + +Next morning, accompanied by Mr Forster, I went in the pinnace to survey +the isles and rocks which lie in the mouth of the bay. I began first with +those which lie on the S.E. side of Anchor Isle. I found here a very snug +cove sheltered from all winds, which we called Luncheon Cove, because here +we dined on cray fish, on the side of a pleasant brook, shaded by the trees +from both wind and sun. After dinner we proceeded, by rowing, out to the +outermost isles, where we saw many seals, fourteen of which we killed and +brought away with us; and might have got many more, if the surf had +permitted us to land with safety on all the rocks. The next morning, I went +out again to continue the survey, accompanied by Mr Forster. I intended to +have landed again on the Seal Isles; but there ran such a high sea that I +could not come near them. With some difficulty we rowed out to sea, and +round the S.W. point of Anchor Isle. It happened very fortunately that +chance directed me to take this course, in which we found the sportsmen's +boat adrift, and laid hold of her the very moment she would have been +dashed against the rocks. I was not long at a loss to guess how she came +there, nor was I under any apprehensions for the gentlemen that had been in +her; and after refreshing ourselves with such as we had to eat and drink, +and securing the boat in a small creek, we proceeded to the place where we +supposed them to be. This we reached about seven or eight o'clock in the +evening, and found them upon a small isle in Goose Cove, where, as it was +low water, we could not come with our boat until the return of the tide. As +this did not happen till three o'clock in the morning, we landed on a naked +beach, not knowing where to find a better place, and, after some time, +having got a fire and broiled some fish, we made a hearty supper, having +for sauce a good appetite. This done, we lay down to sleep, having a stony +beach for a bed, and the canopy of heaven for a covering. At length the +tide permitted us to take off the sportsmen; and with them we embarked, and +proceeded for the place where we had left their boat, which, we soon +reached, having a fresh breeze of wind in our favour, attended with rain. +When we came to the creek which was on the N.W. side of Anchor Isle, we +found there an immense number of blue peterels, some on the wing, others in +the woods in holes in the ground, under the roots of trees and in the +crevices of rocks, where there was no getting them, and where we supposed +their young were deposited. As not one was to be seen in the day, the old +ones were probably, at that time, out at sea searching for food, which in +the evening they bring to their young. The noise they made was like the +croaking of many frogs. They were, I believe, of the broad-bill kind, +which, are not so commonly seen at sea as the others. Here, however, they +are in great numbers, and flying much about in the night, some of our +gentlemen at first took them for bats. After restoring the sportsmen to +their boat, we all proceeded for the ship, which we reached by seven +o'clock in the morning, not a little fatigued with our expedition. I now +learned that our friends the natives returned to their habitation at night; +probably foreseeing that rain was at hand; which sort of weather continued +the whole of this day. + +On the morning of the 15th, the weather having cleared up and become fair, +I set out with two boats to continue the survey of the N.W. side of the +bay, accompanied by the two Mr Forsters and several of the officers, whom I +detached in one boat to Goose Cove, where we intended to lodge the night, +while I proceeded in the other, examining the harbours and isles which lay +in my way. In the doing of this, I picked up about a score of wild fowl, +and caught fish sufficient to serve the whole party; and reaching the place +of rendezvous a little before dark, I found all the gentlemen out duck- +shooting. They however soon returned, not overloaded with game. By this +time, the cooks had done their parts, in which little art was required; and +after a hearty repast, on what the day had produced, we lay down to rest; +but took care to rise early the next morning, in order to have the other +bout among the ducks, before we left the cove. + +Accordingly, at day-light, we prepared for the attack. Those who had +reconnoitred the place before, chose their stations accordingly; whilst +myself and another remained in the boat, and rowed to the head of the cove +to start the game, which we did so effectually, that, out of some scores of +ducks, we only detained one to ourselves, sending all the rest down to +those stationed below. After this I landed at the head of the cove, and +walked across the narrow isthmus that disjoins it from the sea, or rather +from another cove which runs in from the sea about one mile, and lies open +to the north winds. It, however, had all the appearance of a good harbour +and safe anchorage. At the head is a fine sandy beach, where I found an +immense number of wood hens, and brought away ten couple of them, which +recompensed me for the trouble of crossing the isthmus, through the wet +woods, up to the middle in water. About nine o'clock we all got collected +together, when the success of everyone was known, which was by no means +answerable to our expectations. The morning, indeed, was very unfavourable +for shooting, being rainy the most of the time we were out. After breakfast +we set out on our return to the ship, which we reached by seven o'clock in +the evening, with about seven dozen of wild fowl, and two seals; the most +of them shot while I was rowing about, exploring the harbours and coves +which I found in my way; every place affording something, especially to us, +to whom nothing came amiss. + +It rained all the 17th, but the 18th bringing fair and clear weather, in +the evening our friends, the natives before-mentioned, paid us another +visit; and, the next morning, the chief and his daughter were induced to +come on board, while the others went out in the canoe fishing. Before they +came on board I shewed them our goats and sheep that were on shore, which +they viewed for a moment with a kind of stupid insensibility. After this I +conducted them to the brow; but before the chief set his foot upon it to +come into the ship, he took a small green branch in his hand, with which he +struck the ship's side several times, repeating a speech or prayer. When +this was over, he threw the branch into the main chains, and came on board. +This custom and manner of making peace, as it were, is practised by all the +nations in the South Seas that I have seen. + +I took them both down into the cabin, where we were to breakfast. They sat +at table with us, but would not taste any of our victuals. The chief wanted +to know where we slept, and indeed to pry into every corner of the cabin, +every part of which he viewed with some surprise. But it was not possible +to fix his attention to any one thing a single moment. The works of art +appeared to him in the same light as those of nature, and were as far +removed beyond his comprehension. What seemed to strike them most was the +number and strength of our decks, and other parts of the ship. The chief, +before he came aboard, presented me with a piece of cloth and a green talc +hatchet; to Mr Forster he also gave a piece or cloth; and the girl gave +another to Mr Hodges. This custom of making presents before they receive +any, is common with the natives of the South Sea isles; but I never saw it +practised in New Zealand before. Of all the various articles I gave my +guest, hatchets and spike-nails were the most valuable in his eyes. + +These he never would suffer to go out of his hands after he once laid hold +of them; whereas many other articles he would lay carelessly down any +where, and at last leave them behind him. + +As soon as I could get quit of them, they were conducted into the gun-room, +where I left them, and set out with two boats to examine the head of the +bay; myself in one, accompanied by Mr Forster and Mr Hodges, and Lieutenant +Cooper in the other. We proceeded up the south side, and without meeting +with any thing remarkable, got to the head of the bay by sun-set; where we +took up our lodging for the night, at the first place we could land upon; +for the flats hindered us from getting quite to the head. + +At day-light in the morning, I took two men in the small boat, and with Mr +Forster went to take a view of the flat land at the head of the bay, near +to where we spent the night. We landed on one side, and ordered the boat to +meet us on the other side; but had not been long on shore before we saw +some ducks, which, by their creeping through the bushes, we got a shot at, +and killed one. The moment we had fired, the natives, whom we had not +discovered before, set up a most hideous noise in two or three places close +by us. We hallooed in our turn; and, at the same time, retired to our boat, +which was full half a mile off. The natives kept up their clamouring noise, +but did not follow us. Indeed we found afterwards that they could not, +because of a branch of the river between us and them, nor did we find their +numbers answerable to the noise they made. As soon as we got to our boat, +and found that there was a river that would admit us, I rowed in, and was +soon after joined by Mr Cooper in the other boat. With this reinforcement I +proceeded up the river, shooting wild ducks, of which there were great +numbers; as we went along, now and then hearing the natives in the woods. +At length two appeared on the banks of the river, a man and a woman; and +the latter kept waving something white in her hand, as a sign of +friendship. Mr Cooper being near them, I called to him to land, as I wanted +to take the advantage of the tide to get as high up as possible, which did +not much exceed half a mile, when I was stopped by the strength of the +stream and great stones which lay in the bed of the river. + +On my return, I found that as Mr Cooper did not land when the natives +expected him, they had retired into the woods, but two others now appeared +on the opposite bank. I endeavoured to have an interview with them, but +this I could not effect. For as I approached the shore, they always retired +farther into the woods, which were so thick as to cover them from our +sight. The falling tide obliged me to retire out of the river to the place +where we had spent the night. There we breakfasted, and afterwards +embarked, in order to return on board; but, just as we were going, we saw +two men on the opposite shore, hallooing to us, which induced me to row +over to them. I landed with two others, unarmed; the two natives standing +about 100 yards from the water-side, with each a spear in his hand. When we +three advanced, they retired; but stood when I advanced alone. + +It was some little time before I could prevail upon them to lay down their +spears. This, at last, one of them did; and met me with a grass plant in +his hand, one end of which he gave me to hold, while he held the other. +Standing in this manner, he began a speech, not one word of which I +understood, and made some long pauses, waiting, as I thought, for me to +answer; for, when I spoke, he proceeded. As soon as this ceremony was over, +which was not long, we saluted each other. He then took his hahou, or coat, +from off his own back, and put it upon mine; after which peace seemed +firmly established. More people joining us did not in the least alarm them; +on the contrary, they saluted every one as he came up. + +I gave to each a hatchet and a knife, having nothing else with me: Perhaps +these were the most valuable things I could give them, at least they were +the most useful. They wanted us to go to their habitation, telling us they +would give us something to eat; and I was sorry that the tide and other +circumstances would not permit me to accept of their invitation. More +people were seen in the skirts of the wood, but none of them joined us: +Probably these were their wives and children. When we took leave they +followed us to our boat; and, seeing the musquets lying across the stern, +they made signs for them to be taken away, which being done, they came +alongside, and assisted us to launch her. At this time it was necessary for +us to look well after them, for they wanted to take away every thing they +could lay their hands upon, except the muskets. These they took care not to +touch, being taught, by the slaughter they had seen us make among the wild- +fowl, to look upon them as instruments of death. + +We saw no canoes or other boats with them, two or three logs of wood tied +together served the same purpose, and were indeed sufficient for the +navigation of the river, on the banks of which they lived. There fish and +fowl were in such plenty, that they had no occasion to go far for food; and +they have but few neighbours to disturb them. The whole number at this +place, I believe, does not exceed three families. + +It was noon when we took leave of these two men, and proceeded down the +north side of the bay, which I explored in my way, and the isles that lie +in the middle. Night, however, overtook us, and obliged me to leave one arm +unlooked into, and hasten to the ship, which we reached by eight o'clock. I +then learnt that the man and his daughter stayed on board the day before +till noon; and that having understood from our people what things were left +in Cascade Cove, the place where they were first seen, he sent and took +them away. He and his family remained near us till today, when they all +went away, and we saw them no more; which was the more extraordinary, as he +never left us empty-handed. From one or another he did not get less than +nine or ten hatchets, three or four times that number of large spike-nails, +besides many other articles. So far as these things may be counted riches +in New Zealand, he exceeds every man there; being, at this time, possessed +of more hatchets and axes than are in the whole country besides. + +In the afternoon of the 21st, I went with a party out to the isles on seal- +hunting. The surf ran so high that we could only land in one place, where +we killed ten. These animals served us for three purposes; the skins we +made use of for our rigging; the fat gave oil for our lamps; and the flesh +we eat. Their haslets are equal to that of a hog, and the flesh of some of +them eats little inferior to beef-steaks. The following day nothing worthy +of notice was done. + +In the morning of the 23d, Mr Pickersgill, Mr Gilbert, and two others, went +to the Cascade Cove, in order to ascend one of the mountains, the summit of +which they reached by two o'clock in the afternoon, as we could see by the +fire they made. In the evening they returned on board, and reported that +inland, nothing was to be seen but barren mountains, with huge craggy +precipices, disjoined by valleys, or rather chasms, frightful to behold. On +the southeast side of Cape West, four miles out at sea, they discovered a +ridge of rocks, on which the waves broke very high. I believe these rocks +to be the same we saw the evening we first fell in with the land. + +Having five geese left out of those we brought from the Cape of Good Hope, +I went with them next morning to Goose Cove (named so on this account,) +where I left them. I chose this place for two reasons; first, here are no +inhabitants to disturb them; and, secondly, here being the most food, I +make no doubt but that they will breed, and may in time spread over the +whole country, and fully answer my intention in leaving them. We spent the +day shooting in and about the cove, and returned aboard about ten o'clock +in the evening. One of the party shot a white hern, which agreed exactly +with Mr Pennant's description, in his British Zoology, of the white herns +that either now are, or were formerly, in England. + +The 20th was the eighth fair day we had had successively; a circumstance, I +believe, very uncommon in this place, especially at this season of the +year. This fair weather gave us an opportunity to complete our wood and +water, to overhaul the rigging, caulk the ship, and put her in a condition +for sea. Fair weather was, however, now at an end; for it began to rain +this evening, and continued without intermission till noon the next day, +when we cast off the shore fasts, hove the ship out of the creek to her +anchor, and steadied her with an hawser to the shore. + +On the 27th, hazy weather, with showers of rain. In the morning I set out, +accompanied by Mr Pickersgill and the two Mr Forsters, to explore the arm +or inlet I discovered the day I returned from the head of the bay. After +rowing about two leagues up it, or rather down, I found it to communicate +with the sea, and to afford a better outlet for ships bound to the north +than the one I came in by. After making this discovery, and refreshing +ourselves on broiled fish and wild fowl, we set out for the ship, and got +on board at eleven o'clock at night, leaving two arms we had discovered, +and which ran into the east, unexplored. In this expedition we shot forty- +four birds, sea-pies, ducks, &c., without going one foot out of our way, or +causing any other delay than picking them up. + +Having got the tents, and every other article on board on the 28th, we only +now waited for a wind to carry us out of the harbour, and through New +Passage, the way I proposed to go to sea. Every thing being removed from +the shore, I set fire to the top-wood, &c., in order to dry a piece of the +ground we had occupied, which, next morning, I dug up, and sowed with +several sorts of garden seeds. The soil was such as did not promise success +to the planter; it was, however, the best we could find. At two o clock in +the afternoon, we weighed with a light breeze at S.W., and stood up the bay +for the New Passage. Soon after we had got through, between the east end of +Indian Island and the west end of Long Island, it fell calm, which obliged +us to anchor in forty-three fathom water, under the north side of the +latter island. + +In the morning of the 30th we weighed again with a light breeze at west, +which, together with all our boats a-head towing, was hardly sufficient to +stem the current. For, after struggling till six o'clock in the evening, +and not getting more than five miles from our last anchoring-place, we +anchored under the north side of Long Island, not more than one hundred +yards from the shore, to which we fastened a hawser. + +1773 May + +At day-light next morning, May 1st, we got again under sail, and attempted +to work to windward, having a light breeze down the bay. At first we gained +ground, but at last the breeze died away; when we soon lost more than we +had got, and were obliged to bear up for a cove on the north side of Long +Island, where we anchored in nineteen fathom water, a muddy bottom: In this +cove we found two huts not long since inhabited; and near them two very +large fire-places or ovens, such as they have in the Society Isles. In this +cove we were detained by calms, attended with continual rain, till the 4th +in the afternoon, when, with the assistance of a small breeze at south- +west, we got the length of the reach or passage leading to sea. The breeze +then left us, and we anchored under the east point, before a sandy beach, +in thirty fathoms water; but this anchoring-place hath nothing to recommend +it like the one we came from, which hath every thing in its favour. + +In the night we had some very heavy squalls of wind, attended with rain, +hail, and snow, and some thunder. Daylight exhibited to our view all the +hills and mountains covered with snow. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a +light breeze sprung up at S.S.W., which, with the help of our boats, +carried us down the passage to our intended anchor-place, where, at eight +o'clock, we anchored in sixteen fathoms water, and moored with a hawser to +the shore, under the first point on the starboard side as you come in from +sea, from which we were covered by the point. + +In the morning of the 6th, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill, accompanied by +the two Mr Forsters, to explore the second arm which turns in to the east, +myself being confined on board by a cold. At the same time I had every +thing got up from between decks, the decks well cleaned and well aired with +fires; a thing that ought never to be long neglected in wet moist weather. +The fair weather, which had continued all this day, was succeeded in the +night by a storm from north-west, which blew in hard squalls, attended with +rain, and obliged us to strike top-gallant and lower yards, and to carry +out another hawser to the shore. The bad weather continued the whole day +and the succeeding night, after which it fell calm with fair weather. + +At seven in the morning, on the 8th, Mr Pickersgill returned, together with +his companions, in no very good plight, having been at the head of the arm +he was sent to explore, which he judged to extend in to the eastward about +eight miles. In it is a good anchoring-place, wood, fresh water, wild fowl, +and fish. At nine o'clock I set out to explore the other inlet, or the one +next the sea; and ordered Mr Gilbert, the master, to go and examine the +passage out to sea, while those on board were getting every thing in +readiness to depart. I proceeded up the inlet till five o'clock in the +afternoon, when bad weather obliged me to return before I had seen the end +of it. As this inlet lay nearly parallel with the sea-coast, I was of +opinion that it might communicate with Doubtful Harbour, or some other +inlet to the northward. Appearances were, however, against this opinion, +and the bad weather hindered me from determining the point, although a few +hours would have done it. I was about ten miles up, and thought I saw the +end of it: I found on the north side three coves, in which, as also on the +south side, between the main and the isles that lie four miles up the +inlet, is good anchorage, wood, water, and what else can be expected, such +as fish and wild fowl: Of the latter, we killed in this excursion, three +dozen. After a very hard row, against both wind and rain, we got on board +about nine o'clock at night, without a dry thread on our backs. + +This bad weather continued no longer than till the next morning, when it +became fair, and the sky cleared up. But, as we had not wind to carry us to +sea, we made up two shooting parties; myself, accompanied by the two +Mr. Forsters and some others, went to the area I was in the day before; +and the other party to the coves and isles Mr Gilbert had discovered when +he was out, and where he found many wild fowl. We had a pleasant day, and +the evening brought us all on board; myself and party met with good sport; +but the other party found little. + +All the forenoon of the 10th, we had strong gales from the west, attended +with heavy showers of rain, and blowing in such flurries over high land, as +made it unsafe for us to get under sail. The afternoon was more moderate, +and became fair; when myself, Mr Cooper, and some others, went out in the +boats to the rocks, which lie at this entrance of the bay, to kill seals. +The weather was rather unfavourable for this sport, and the sea ran high, +so as to make landing difficult; we, however, killed ten, but could only +wait to bring away five, with which we returned on board. + +In the morning of the 11th, while we were getting under sail, I sent a boat +for the other five seals. At nine o'clock we weighed with a light breeze at +south-east, and stood out to sea, taking up the boat in our way. It was +noon before we got clear of the land; at which time we observed in 45° 34' +30" S.; the entrance of the bay bore S.E. by E., and Break-sea Isles (the +outermost isles that lie at the south point of the entrance of the bay,) +bore S.S.E., distant three miles; the southernmost point, or that of Five +Fingers Point, bore south 42° W., and the northernmost land N.N.E. In this +situation we had a prodigious swell from S.W., which broke with great +violence on all the shores that were exposed to it. + +CHAPTER V. + +_Directions for sailing in and out of Dusky Bay, with an Account of the +adjacent Country, its Produce, and Inhabitants: Astronomical and Nautical +Observations._ + +1773 May + +As there are few places where I have been in New Zealand that afford the +necessary refreshments in such plenty as Dusky Bay, a short description of +it, and of the adjacent country, may prove of use to some future +navigators, as well as acceptable to the curious reader. For although this +country be far remote from the present trading part of the world, we can, +by no means, tell what use future ages may make of the discoveries made in +the present. The reader of this journal must already know that there are +two entrances to this bay. The south entrance is situated on the north side +of Cape West, in latitude 45° 48' S. It is formed by the land of the Cape +to the south, and Five Fingers Point to the north. This point is made +remarkable by several pointed rocks lying off it, which, when viewed from +certain situations, have some resemblance to the five fingers of a man's +hand; from whence it takes its name. The land of this point is still more +remarkable by the little similarity it bears to any other of the lands +adjacent; being a narrow peninsula lying north and south, of a moderate and +equal height, and all covered with wood. + +To sail into the bay by this entrance is by no means difficult, as I know +of no danger but what shews itself. The worst that attends it, is the depth +of water, which is too great to admit of anchorage, except in the coves and +harbours, and very near the shores; and even, in many places, this last +cannot be done. The anchoring-places are, however, numerous enough, and +equally safe and commodious. Pickersgill Harbour, where we lay, is not +inferior to any other bay, for two or three ships: It is situated on the +south shore abreast of the west end of Indian island; which island may be +known from the others by its greater proximity to that shore. There is a +passage into the harbour on both sides of the isle, which lies before it. +The most room is on the upper or east side, having regard to a sunken rock, +near the main, abreast this end of the isle: Keep the isle close aboard, +and you will not only avoid the rock, but keep in anchoring-ground. The +next place, on this side, is Cascade Cove, where there is room for a fleet +of ships, and also a passage in on either side of the isle, which lies in +the entrance, taking care to avoid a sunken rock which lies near the south- +east shore, a little above the isle. This rock, as well as the one in +Pickersgill Harbour, may be seen at half-ebb It must be needless to +enumerate all the anchoring-places in this capacious bay. + +The north entrance lies in the latitude of 45° 38' S., and five leagues to +the north of Five Fingers Point. To make this entrance plain, it will be +necessary to approach the shore within a few miles, as all the land within +and on each side is of considerable height. Its situation may, however, be +known at a greater distance, as it lies under the first craggy mountains +which rise to the north of the land of Five Fingers Point. The southernmost +of these mountains is remarkable, having at its summit two small hillocks. +When this mountain bears S.S.E. you will be before the entrance, on the +south side of which are several isles. The westernmost and outermost is the +most considerable, both for height and circuit, and this I have called +Break sea Isle, because it effectually covers this entrance from the +violence of the southwest swell, which the other entrance is so much +exposed to. In sailing in you leave this isle as well as all the others to +the south. The best anchorage is in the first or north arm, which is on the +larboard hand going in, either in one of the coves, or behind the isles +that lie under the south-east shore. + +The country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, but +through all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poenammoo. A +prospect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with, for inland appears +nothing but the summits of mountains of a stupendous height, and consisting +of rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are covered +with snow. But the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all the islands, +are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The trees +are of various kinds, such as are common to other parts of this country, +and are fit for the shipwright, house-carpenter, cabinet-maker, and many +other uses. Except in the river Thames, I have not seen finer timber in all +New Zealand; both here and in that river, the most considerable for size is +the Spruce-tree, as we called it, from the similarity of its foliage to the +American spruce, though the wood is more ponderous, and bears a greater +resemblance to the pitch-pine. Many of these trees are from six to eight +and ten feet in girt, and from sixty to eighty or one hundred feet in +length, large enough to make a main-mast for a fifty-gun ship. + +Here are, as well as in all other parts of New Zealand, a great number of +aromatic trees and shrubs, most of the myrtle kind; but amidst all this +variety, we met with none which bore fruit fit to eat. + +In many parts the woods are so over-run with supplejacks, that it is +scarcely possible to force one's way amongst them. I have seen several +which were fifty or sixty fathoms long. + +The soil is a deep black mould, evidently composed of decayed vegetables, +and so loose that it sinks under you at every step; and this may be the +reason why we meet with so many large trees as we do, blown down by the +wind, even in the thickest part of the woods. All the ground amongst the +trees is covered with moss and fern, of both which there is a great +variety; but except the flax or hemp plant, and a few other plants, there +is very little herbage of any sort, and none that was eatable, that we +found, except about a handful of water-cresses, and about the same quantity +of cellery. What Dusky Bay most abounds with is fish: A boat with six or +eight men, with hooks and lines, caught daily sufficient to serve the whole +ship's company. Of this article the variety is almost equal to the plenty, +and of such kinds as are common to the more northern coast; but some are +superior, and in particular the cole fish, as we called it, which is both +larger and finer flavoured than any I had seen before, and was, in the +opinion of most on board, the highest luxury the sea afforded us. The +shell-fish are, muscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many other +sorts, all such as are to be found in every other part of the coast. The +only amphibious animals are seals: These are to be found in great numbers +about this bay on the small rocks and isles near the sea coast. + +We found here five different kinds of ducks, some of which I do not +recollect to have any where seen before. The largest are as big as a +Muscovy duck, with a very beautiful variegated plumage, on which account we +called it the Painted Duck; both male and female have a large white spot on +each wing; the head and neck of the latter is white, but all the other +feathers as well as those on the head and neck of the drake are of a dark +variegated colour. The second sort have a brown plumage, with bright green +feathers in their wings, and are about the size of an English tame duck. +The third sort is the blue-grey duck, before mentioned, or the whistling +duck, as some called them, from the whistling noise they made. What is most +remarkable in these is, that the end of their beaks is soft, and of a +skinny, or more properly, cartilaginous substance. The fourth sort is +something bigger than a teal, and all black except the drake, which has +some white feathers in his wing. There are but few of this sort, and we saw +them no where but in the river at the head of the bay. The last sort is a +good deal like a teal, and very common, I am told, in England. The other +fowls, whether belonging to the sea and land, are the same that are to be +found in common in other parts of this country, except the blue peterel +before-mentioned, and the water or wood-hens. These last, although they +are numerous enough here, are so scarce in other parts, that I never saw +but one. The reason may be, that, as they cannot fly, they inhabit the +skirts of the woods, and feed on the sea-beach, and are so very tame or +foolish, as to stand and stare at us till we knocked them down with a +stick. The natives may have, in a manner, wholly destroyed them. They are a +sort of rail, about the size and a good deal like a common dunghill hen; +most of them are of a dirty black or dark-brown colour, and eat very well +in a pye or fricassée. Among the small birds I must not omit to +particularize the wattle-bird, poy-bird, and fan-tail, on account of their +singularity, especially as I find they are not mentioned in the narrative +of my former voyage. + +The wattle-bird, so called, because it has two wattles under its beak as +large as those of a small dunghill-cock, is larger, particularly in length, +than an English black-bird. Its bill is short and thick, and its feathers +of a dark lead colour; the colour of its wattles is a dull yellow, almost +an orange colour. + +The poy-bird is less than the wattle-bird. The feathers of a fine mazarine +blue, except those of its neck, which are of a most beautiful silver-grey, +and two or three short white ones, which are on the pinion joint of the +wing. Under its throat hang two little tufts of curled, snow-white +leathers, called its _poies_, which being the Otaheitean word for +earrings, occasioned our giving that name to the bird, which is not more +remarkable for the beauty of its plumage than for the sweetness of its +note. The flesh is also most delicious, and was the greatest luxury the +woods afforded us. + +Of the fan-tail there are different sorts; but the body of the most +remarkable one is scarcely larger than a good filbert, yet it spreads a +tail of most beautiful plumage, full three quarters of a semi-circle, of at +least four or five inches radius. + +For three or four days after we arrived in Pickersgill harbour, and as we +were clearing the woods to set up our tents, &c. a four-footed animal was +seen by three or four of our people; but as no two gave the same +description of it, I cannot say of what kind it is. All, however, agreed, +that it was about the size of a cat, with short legs, and of a mouse +colour. One of the seamen, and he who had the best view of it, said it had +a bushy tail, and was the most like a jackall of any animal he knew. The +most probable conjecture is, that it is of a new species. Be this as it +may, we are now certain that this country is not so destitute of quadrupeds +as was once thought. + +The most mischievous animals here are the small black sand flies, which are +very numerous, and so troublesome, that they exceed every thing of the kind +I ever met with. Wherever they bite they cause a swelling, and such an +intolerable itching, that it is not possible to refrain from scratching, +which at last brings on ulcers like the small-pox. + +The almost continual rains may be reckoned another evil attending this bay; +though perhaps this may only happen at this season of the year. +Nevertheless, the situation of the country, the vast height, and nearness +of the mountains, seem to subject it to much rain at all times. Our people, +who were daily exposed to the rain, felt no ill effects from it; on the +contrary, such as were sick and ailing when we came in, recovered daily, +and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous, which can only be +attributed to the healthiness of the place, and the fresh provisions it +afforded. The beer certainly contributed not a little. As I have already +observed, we at first made it of a decoction of the spruce leaves; but +finding that this alone made the beer too astringent, we afterwards mixed +with it an equal quantity of the tea plant (a name it obtained in my former +voyage, from our using it as tea then as we also did now,) which partly +destroyed the astringency of the other, and made the beer exceedingly +palatable, and esteemed by every one on board. We brewed it in the same +manner as spruce-beer, and the process is as follows: First, make a strong +decoction of the small branches of the spruce and tea plants, by boiling +them three or four hours, or until the bark will strip with ease from off +the branches; then take them out of the copper, and put in the proper +quantity of molasses, ten gallons of which is sufficient to make a ton, or +two hundred and forty gallons of beer; let this mixture just boil, then pot +it into the casks, and to it add an equal quantity of cold water, more or +less, according to the strength of the decoction, or your taste: When the +whole is milk-warm, put in a little grounds of beer, or yeast, if you have +it, or any thing else that will cause fermentation, and in a few days the +beer will be fit to drink. After the casks have been brewed in two or three +times the beer will generally ferment itself, especially if the weather is +warm. As I had inspissated juice of wort on board, and could not apply it +to a better purpose, we used it together with molasses or sugar, to make +these two articles go farther. For of the former I had but one cask, and of +the latter little to spare for this brewing. Had I known how well this beer +would have succeeded, and the great use it was of to the people, I should +have come better provided. Indeed I was partly discouraged by an experiment +made during my former voyage, which did not succeed then, owing, as I now +believe, to some mismanagement. + +Any one, who is in the least acquainted with spruce pines, will find the +tree which I have distinguished by that name. There are three sorts of it; +that which has the smallest leaves and deepest colour, is the sort we +brewed with; but doubtless all three might safely serve that purpose. The +tea-plant is a small tree or shrub, with five white petals, or flower- +leaves, shaped like those of a rose, having smaller ones of the same figure +in the intermediate spaces, and twenty or more filaments or threads. The +tree sometimes grows to a moderate height, and is generally bare on the +lower part, with a number of small branches growing close together towards +the top. The leaves are small and pointed, like those of the myrtle; it +bears a dry roundish seed-case, and grows commonly in dry places near the +shores. The leaves, as I have already observed, were used by many of us as +tea, which has a very agreeable bitter and flavour when they are recent, +but loses some of both when they are dried. When the infusion was made +strong, it proved emetic to some in the same manner as green tea. + +The inhabitants of this bay are of the same race of people with those in +the other parts of this country, speak the same language, and observe +nearly the same customs. These indeed seem to have a custom of making +presents before they receive any, in which they come nearer to the +Otaheiteans than the rest of their countrymen. What could induce three or +four families (for I believe there are not more) to separate themselves so +far from the society of the rest of their fellow-creatures, is not easy to +guess. By our meeting with inhabitants in this place, it seems probable +that there are people scattered over all this southern island. But the many +vestiges of them in different parts of this bay, compared with the number +that we actually saw, indicates that they live a wandering life; and, if +one may judge from appearances and circumstances, few as they are, they +live not in perfect amity, one family with another. For, if they did, why +do they not form themselves into some society? a thing not only natural to +man, but observed even by the brute creation. + +I shall conclude this account of Dusky Bay with some observations made and +communicated to me by Mr Wales. He found by a great variety of +observations, that the latitude of his observatory at Pickersgill Harbour, +was 45° 47' 26" half south; and, by the mean of several distances of the +moon from the sun, that its longitude was 106° 18' E., which is about half +a degree less than it is laid down in my chart constructed in my former +voyage. He found the variation of the needle or compass, by the mean of +three different needles, to be 13° 49' E, and the dip of the south end 70° +5' three quarters. The times of high water, on the full and change days, he +found to be at 10° 57', and the tide to rise and fall, at the former eight +feet, at the latter five feet eight inches. This difference, in the rise of +the tides between the new and full moon, is a little extraordinary, and was +probably occasioned at this time by some accidental cause, such as winds, +&c., but, be it as it will, I am well assured there was no error in the +observations. + +Supposing the longitude of the observatory to be as above, the error of Mr +Kendal's watch, in longitude, will be 1° 48' minus, and that of Mr Arnold's +39° 25'. The former was found to be gaining 6",461 a-day on mean time, and +the latter losing 99",361. Agreeably to these rates the longitude by them +was to be determined, until an opportunity of trying them again. + +I must observe, that in finding the longitude by Mr Kendal's watch, we +suppose it to have gone mean time from the Cape of Good Hope. Had its cape +rate been allowed, the error would not have been so great. + +CHAPTER VI. + +_Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlottes Sound, with an Account of +some Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure._ + +1773 May + +After leaving Dusky Bay, as hath been already mentioned, I directed my +course along shore for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I expected to find +the Adventure. In this passage we met with nothing remarkable, or worthy of +notice, till the 17th at four o'clock in the afternoon. Being then about +three leagues to the westward of Cape Stephens; having a gentle gale at +west by south, and clear weather, the wind at once flattened to a calm, the +sky became suddenly obscured by dark dense clouds, and seemed to forebode +much wind. This occasioned as to clew up all our sails, and presently after +six water-spouts were seen. Four rose and spent themselves between us and +the land; that is, to the south-west of us, the fifth was without us, the +sixth first appeared in the south-west, at the distance of two or three +miles at least from us. Its progressive motion was to the north-east, not +in a straight but in a crooked line, and passed within fifty yards of our +stern, without our feeling any of its effects. The diameter of the base of +this spout I judged to be about fifty or sixty feet; that is, the sea +within this space was much agitated, and foamed up to a great height. From +this a tube, or round body, was formed, by which the water or air, or both, +was carried in a spiral stream up to the clouds. Some of our people said +they saw a bird in the one near us, which was whirled round like the fly of +a jack, as it was carried upwards. During the time these spouts lasted, we +had now and then light puffs of wind from all points of the compass, with +some few slight showers of rain, which generally fell in large drops; and +the weather continued thick and hazy for some hours after, with variable +light breezes of wind. At length the wind fixed in its old point, and the +sky resumed its former serenity. Some of these spouts appeared at times to +be stationary; and at other times to have a quick but very unequal +progressive motion, and always in a crooked line, sometimes one way and +sometimes another; so that, once or twice, we observed them to cross one +another. From the ascending motion of the bird, and several other +circumstances, it was very plain to us that these spouts were caused by +whirlwinds, and that the water in them was violently hurried upwards, and +did not descend from the clouds as I have heard some assert. The first +appearance of them is by the violent agitation and rising up of the water; +and, presently after, you see a round column or tube forming from the +clouds above, which apparently descends till it joins the agitated water +below. I say apparently, because I believe it not to be so in reality, but +that the tube is already formed from the agitated water below, and ascends, +though at first it is either too small or too thin to be seen. When the +tube is formed, or becomes visible, its apparent diameter increaseth till +it is pretty large; after that it decreaseth, and at last it breaks or +becomes invisible towards the lower part. Soon after the sea below resumes +its natural state, and the tube is drawn, by little and little, up to the +clouds, where it is dissipated. The same tube would sometimes have a +vertical, and sometimes a crooked or inclined direction. The most rational +account I have read of water-spouts, is in Mr Falconer's Marine Dictionary, +which is chiefly collected from the philosophical writings of the ingenious +Dr Franklin. I have been told that the firing of a gun will dissipate them; +and I am very sorry I did not try the experiment, as we were near enough, +and had a gun ready for the purpose; but as soon as the danger was past, I +thought no more about it, being too attentive in viewing these +extraordinary meteors At the time this happened, the barometer stood at 29, +75, and the thermometer at 56. + +In coming from Cape Farewell to Cape Stephens, I had a better view of the +coast than I had when I passed in my former voyage, and observed that about +six leagues to the east of the first-mentioned cape, is a spacious bay, +which is covered from the sea by a low point of land. This is, I believe, +the same that Captain Tasman anchored in on the 18th of December, 1642, and +by him called Murderer's Bay, by reason of some of his men being killed by +the natives. Blind Bay, so named by me in my former voyage, lies to the +S.E. of this, and seems to run a long way inland to the south; the sight, +in this direction, not being bounded by any land. The wind having returned +to the west, as already mentioned, we resumed our course to the east; and +at day-light the next morning (being the 18th,) we appeared off Queen +Charlotte's Sound, where we discovered our consort the Adventure, by the +signals she made to us; an event which every one felt with an agreeable +satisfaction. The fresh westerly wind now died away, and was succeeded by +light airs from the S. and S.W., so that we had to work in with our boats +a-head towing. In the doing of this we discovered a rock, which we did not +see in my former voyage. It lies in the direction of S. by E. 1/2 E., +distant four miles from the outermost of the Two Brothers, and in a line +with the White Rocks, on with the middle of Long Island. It is just even +with the surface of the sea, and hath deep water all round it. At noon, +Lieutenant Kemp of the Adventure came on board; from whom I learnt that +their ship had been here about six weeks. With the assistance of a light +breeze, our boats, and the tides, we at six o'clock in the evening, got to +an anchor in Ship Cove, near the Adventure, when Captain Furneaux came on +board, and gave me the following account of his proceedings, from the time +we parted to my arrival here. + +CHAPTER VII. + +_Captain Furneaux's Narrative, from the Time the two Ships were +separated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some +Account of Van Diemen's Land._ + +1773 February + +On the 7th of February, 1773, in the morning, the Resolution being then +about two miles a-head, the wind shifting then to the westward, brought on +a very thick fog; so that we lost sight of her. We soon after heard a gun, +the report of which we imagined to be on the larboard beam; we then hauled +up S.E., and kept firing a four-pounder every half hour, but had no answer, +nor further sight of her; then we kept the course we steered on before the +fog came on. In the evening it began to blow hard, and was at intervals +more clear, but could see nothing of her, which gave us much uneasiness. We +then tacked and stood to the westward, to cruise in the place where we last +saw her, according to agreement, in case of separation; but next day came +on a very heavy gale of wind and thick weather, that obliged us to bring +to, and thereby prevented us reaching the intended spot. However, the wind +coming more moderate, and the fog in some measure clearing away, we cruised +as near the place as we could get, for three days; when giving over all +hopes of joining company again, we bore away for winter quarters, distant +fourteen hundred leagues, through a sea entirely unknown and reduced the +allowance of water to one quart per day. + +We kept between the latitude of 52° and 53° S., had much westerly wind, +hard gales, with squalls, snow and sleet, with a long hollow sea from the +S.W., so that we judged there is no land in that quarter. After we reached +the longitude of 95° E., we found the variation decrease very fast. + +On the 26th, at night, we saw a meteor of uncommon brightness in the N.N.W. +It directed its course to the S.W., with a very great light in the southern +sky, such as is known to the northward by the name of Aurora Borealis, or +Northern Lights. We saw the light for several nights running; and, what is +remarkable, we saw but one ice island after we parted company with the +Resolution, till our making land, though we were most of the time two or +three degrees to the southward of the latitude we first saw it in. We were +daily attended by great numbers of sea birds, and frequently saw porpoises +curiously spotted white and black. + +1773 March + +On the 1st of March we were alarmed with the cry of land by the man at the +mast-head, on the larboard beam; which gave us great joy. We immediately +hauled our wind and stood for it, but to our mortification were +disappointed in a few hours; for, what we took to be land, proved no more +than clouds, which disappeared as we sailed towards them. We then bore +away, and directed our course towards the land laid down in the charts by +the name of Van Diemen's Land, discovered by Tasman in 1642, and laid down +in the latitude 44° S., and longitude 140° E., and supposed to join to New +Holland. + +On the 9th of March, having little wind and pleasant weather, about nine a. +m. being then in the latitude of 43° 37' S. longitude, by lunar +observation, 145° 36' E., and by account 143° 10' E. from Greenwich, we saw +the land bearing N.N.E., about eight or nine leagues distance. It appeared +moderately high, and uneven near the sea; the hills farther back formed a +double land, and much higher. There seemed to be several islands, or broken +land, to the N.W., as the shore trenched; but by reason of clouds that hung +over them, we could not be certain whether they did not join to the main. +We hauled immediately up for it, and by noon were within three or four +leagues of it. A point much like the Ramhead off Plymouth, which I take to +be the same that Tasman calls South Cape, bore north four leagues off us. +The land from this cape runs directly to the eastward; about four leagues +along shore are three islands about two miles long, and several rocks, +resembling the Mewstone, (particularly one which we so named,) about four +or five leagues E.S.E 1/2 E. off the above cape, which Tasman has not +mentioned, or laid down in his draughts. After you pass these islands, the +land lies E. by N., and W. by S., by the compass nearly. It is a bold +shore, and seems to afford several bays or anchoring-places, but believe +deep water. From the S.W. cape, which is in the latitude of 43° 39' S., and +longitude 145° 50' E. to the S.E. cape, in the latitude 43° 36' S., +longitude 147° E., is nearly sixteen leagues, and sounding from forty-eight +to seventy fathoms, sand and broken shells three or four leagues off shore. +Here the country is hilly and full of trees, the shore rocky and difficult +landing, occasioned by the wind blowing here continually from the westward, +which occasions such a surf that the sand cannot lie on the shore. We saw +no inhabitants here. + +The morning, on the 10th of March, being calm, the ship then about four +miles from the land, sent the great cutter on shore with the second +lieutenant, to find if there was any harbour or good bay. Soon after, it +beginning to blow very hard, made the signal for the boat to return several +times, but they did not see or hear any thing of it; the ship then three or +four leagues off, that we could not see any thing of the boat, which gave +us great uneasiness, as there was a very great sea. At half-past one p.m. +to our great satisfaction, the boat returned on board safe. They landed, +but with much difficulty, and saw several places where the Indians had +been, and one they lately had left, where they had a fire, with a great +number of pearl escallop shells round it, which shells they brought on +board, with, some burnt sticks and green boughs. There was a path from this +place, through the woods, which in all probability leads to their +habitations; but, by reason of the weather, had not time to pursue it. The +soil seems to be very rich; the country well clothed with wood, +particularly on the lee side of the hills; plenty of water which falls from +the rocks in beautiful cascades, for two or three hundred feet +perpendicular into the sea; but they did not see the least sign of any +place to anchor in with safety. Hoisted in the boat, and made sail for +Frederick Henry Bay. From noon to three p.m. running along shore E. by N., +at which time we were abreast of the westernmost point of a very deep bay, +called by Tasman, Stormy Bay. From the west to the east point of this bay +there are several small islands, and black rocks, which we called the +Friars. While crossing this bay we had very heavy squalls and thick +weather; at times, when it cleared up, I saw several fires in the bottom of +the bay, which is near two or three leagues deep, and has, I doubt not, +good places for anchoring, but the weather being so bad, did not think it +safe to stand into it. From the Friars the land trenches away about N. by +E. four leagues: We had smooth water, and kept in shore, having regular +soundings from twenty to fifteen fathoms water. At half-past six we hauled +round a high bluff point, the rocks whereof were like so many fluted +pillars, and had ten fathoms water, fine sand, within half a mile of the +shore. At seven, being abreast of a fine bay, and having little wind, we +came-to, with the small bower, in twenty-four fathoms, sandy bottom. Just +after we anchored, being a fine clear evening, had a good observation of +the star Antares and the moon, which gave the longitude of 147° 34' E., +being in the latitude of 43° 20' S. We first took this bay to be that +which Tasman called Frederick Henry Bay; but afterwards found that his is +laid down five leagues to the northward of this. + +At day-break the next morning, I sent the master in shore to sound the bay, +and to find out a watering-place; at eight he returned, having found a most +excellent harbour, clear ground from side to side, from eighteen to five +fathom water all over the bay, gradually decreasing as you go in shore. We +weighed and turned up into the bay; the wind being westerly, and very +little of it, which baffled us much in getting in. At seven o'clock in the +evening, we anchored in seven fathoms water, with a small bower, and moored +with the coasting anchor to the westward, the north point of the bay N.N.E. +1/2 E. (which we take to be Tasman's Head), and the easternmost point +(which we named Penguin Island, from a curious one we caught there) N.E. by +E 3/4 E.; the watering-place W. 1/2 N.; about one mile from the shore on +each side; Maria's Island, which is about five or six leagues off, shut in +with both points; so that you are quite land-locked in a most spacious +harbour. + +We lay here five days, which time was employed in wooding and watering +(which is easily got), and over-hauling the rigging. We found the country +very pleasant; the soil a black, rich, though thin one; the sides of the +hills covered with large trees, and very thick, growing to a great height +before they branch off. They are all of the evergreen kind, different from +any I ever saw; the wood is very brittle, and easily split; there is a very +little variety of sorts, having seen but two. The leaves of one are long +and narrow; and the seed (of which I got a few) is in the shape of a +button, and has a very agreeable smell. The leaves of the other are like +the bay, and it has a seed like the white thorn, with an agreeable spicy +taste and smell. Out of the trees we cut down for fire-wood, there issued +some gum, which the surgeon called gum-lac. The trees are mostly burnt or +scorched, near the ground, occasioned by the natives setting fire to the +under-wood, in the most frequented places; and by these means they have +rendered it easy walking. The land birds we saw, are a bird like a raven; +some of the crow kind, black, with the tips of the feathers of the tail and +wings white, their bill long and very sharp; some paroquets; and several +kinds of small birds. The sea-fowl are ducks, teal, and the sheldrake. I +forgot to mention a large white bird, that one of the gentlemen shot, about +the size of a large kite of the eagle kind. As for beasts, we saw but one, +which was an opossom; but we observed the dung of some, which we judged to +be of the deer kind. The fish in the bay are scarce; those we caught were +mostly sharks, dog-fish, and a fish called by the seamen nurses, like the +dog-fish, only full of small white spots; and some small fish not unlike +sprats. The lagoons (which are brackish) abound with trout, and several +other sorts of fish, of which we caught a few with lines, but being much +encumbered with stumps of trees, we could not haul the seine. + +While we lay here, we saw several smokes and large fires, about eight or +ten miles in shore to the northward, but did not see any of the natives; +though they frequently come into this bay, as there were several wigwams or +huts, where we found some bags and nets made of grass, in which I imagine +they carry their provisions and other necessaries. In one of them there was +the stone they strike fire with, and tinder made of bark, but of what tree +could not be distinguished. We found in one of their huts, one of their +spears, which was made sharp at one end, I suppose, with a shell or stone. +Those things we brought away, leaving in the room of them medals, gun- +flints, a few nails, and an old empty barrel with the iron hoops on it. +They seem to be quite ignorant of every sort of metal. The boughs, of which +their huts are made, are either broken or split, and tied together with +grass in a circular form, the largest end stuck in the ground, and the +smaller parts meeting in a point at the top, and covered with fern and +bark, so poorly done, that they will hardly keep out a shower of rain. In +the middle is the fire-place, surrounded with heaps of muscle, pearl, +scallop, and cray-fish shells, which I believe to be their chief food, +though we could not find any of them. They lie on the ground, on dried +grass, round the fire; and I believe they have no settled place of +habitation (as their houses seemed built only for a few days), but wander +about in small parties from place to place in search of food, and are +actuated by no other motive. We never found more than three or four huts in +a place, capable of containing three or four persons each only; and what is +remarkable, we never saw the least marks either of canoe or boat, and it is +generally thought they have none; being altogether, from what we could +judge, a very ignorant and wretched set of people, though natives of a +country capable of producing every necessary of life, and a climate the +finest in the world. We found not the least signs of any minerals or +metals. + +Having completed our wood and water, we sailed from Adventure Bay, +intending to coast it up along shore, till we should fall in with the land +seen by Captain Cook, and discover whether Van Diemen's Land joins with New +Holland. On the 16th, we passed Maria's Islands, so named by Tassman; they +appear to be the same as the main land. On the 17th, having passed +Shouten's Islands, we hauled in for the main land, and stood along shore at +the distance of two or three leagues off. The country here appears to be +very thickly inhabited, as there was a continual fire along shore as we +sailed. The land hereabouts is much pleasanter, low, and even; but no signs +of a harbour or bay, where a ship might anchor with safety. The weather +being bad, and blowing hard at S.S.E., we could not send a boat on shore to +have any intercourse with the inhabitants. In the latitude of 40° 50' S., +the land trenches away to the westward, which I believe forms a deep bay, +as we saw from the deck several smokes arising a-back of the islands that +lay before it, when we could not see the least signs of land from the mast +head. + +From the latitude of 40° 50' S., to the latitude of 39° 50' S., is nothing +but islands and shoals; the land high, rocky, and barren. On the 19th, in +the latitude of 40° 30' S., observing breakers about half a mile within +shore of us, we sounded, and finding but eight fathoms, immediately hauled +off, deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, then bore away and kept along +shore again. From the latitude of 39° 50' to 39° S., we saw no land, but +had regular soundings from fifteen to thirty fathoms. As we stood on to the +northward, we made land again in about 39°; after which we discontinued our +northerly course, as we found the ground very uneven, and shoal-water some +distance off. I think it a very dangerous shore to fall in with. + +The coast, from Adventure Bay to the place where we stood away for New +Zealand, lies in the direction S. 1/2 W., and N. 1/2 E., about seventy-five +leagues; and it is my opinion that there are no straits between New Holland +and Van Diemen's Land, but a very deep bay.--I should have stood farther to +the northward, but the wind blowing strong at S.S.E., and looking likely to +haul round to the eastward, which would have blown right on the land, I +therefore thought it more proper to leave the coast and steer for New +Zealand. + +After we left Van Diemen's Land, we had very uncertain weather, with rain +and very heavy gusts of wind. On the 24th, we were surprised with a very +severe squall, that reduced us from top-gallant sails to reefed courses, in +the space of an hour. The sea rising equally quick, we shipped many waves, +one of which stove the large cutter, and drove the small one from her +lashing in the waist; and with much difficulty we saved her from being +washed overboard. This gale lasted twelve hours, after which we had more +moderate weather, intermixed with calms. We frequently hoisted out the +boats to try the currents, and in general found a small drift to the W.S.W. +We shot many birds; and had, upon the whole, good weather; but as we got +near to the land, it came on thick and dirty for several days, till we made +the coast of New Zealand in 40° 30' S., having made twenty-four degrees of +longitude, from Adventure Bay, after a passage of fifteen days. + +We had the winds much southerly in this passage, and I was under some +apprehensions of not being able to fetch the straits, which would have +obliged us to steer away for George's Island; I would therefore advise any +who sail to this part, to keep to the southward, particularly in the fall +of the year, when the S. and S.E. winds prevail. + +1773 April + +The land, when we first made it, appeared high, and formed a confused +jumble of hills and mountains. We steered along shore to the northward, but +were much retarded in our course by reason of the swell from the N.E. At +noon, on the 3rd of April, Cape Farewell, which is the south point of the +entrance of the west side of the straits, bore E. by N. 1/2 N. by the +compass, three or four leagues distant. About eight o'clock we entered the +straits, and steered N.E. till midnight; then brought-to till day-light, +and had soundings from forty-five to fifty-eight fathoms, sand and broken +shells. At day-light, made sail and steered S.E. by E.; had light airs; +Mount Egmont N.N.E. eleven or twelve leagues, and Point Stephens S.E. 1/2 +E. seven leagues. At noon, Mount Egmont N. by E. twelve leagues; Stephens +Island S.E. five leagues. In the afternoon we put the dredge over-board in +sixty-five fathoms; but caught nothing except a few small scallops, two or +three oysters, and broken shells. + +Standing to the eastward for Charlotte's Sound, with a light breeze at +N.W., in the morning on the 5th, Stephens Island bearing S.W. by W. four +leagues, we were taken a-back with a strong easterly gale, which obliged us +to haul our wind to the S.E. and work to windward up under Port Jackson. +The course from Stephens Island to Point Jackson, is nearly S.E. by the +compass, eleven leagues distant, depth of water from forty to thirty-two +fathoms, sandy ground. As we stood off and on, we fired several guns, but +saw no signs of any inhabitants. In the afternoon, at half-past two, +o'clock, finding the tide set the ship to the westward, we anchored with +the coasting anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water, muddy ground; Point +Jackson S.E. 1/2 E. three leagues; the east point of an inlet (about four +leagues to the westward of Point Jackson, and which appears to be a good +harbour) S.W. by W. 1/2 W. At eight p.m. the tide slackening, we weighed +and made sail (having while at anchor caught several fish with hook and +line), and found the tide to run to the westward, at the rate of two and a +half knots per hour. Standing to the east, we found no ground at seventy +fathoms, off Point Jackson N.N.W., two leagues. At eight the next morning, +had the sound open; but the wind being down, it obliged us to work up under +the western shore, as the tide sets up strong there, when it runs down in +mid channel. At ten, the tide being done, was obliged to come-to with the +best bower in thirty-eight fathoms, close to some white rocks, Point +Jackson bearing N.W. 1/2 N.; the northernmost of the Brothers E. by S.; and +the middle of Entry Island (which lies on the north side of the straits) +N.E. We made 15° 30' E., variation in the straits. As we sailed up the +sound we saw the tops of high mountains covered with snow, which remains +all the year. When the tide slackened, we weighed and sailed up the sound; +and about five o'clock on the 7th, anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms +water, muddy ground, and moored the best bower to the N.N.E., and small to +S.S.W. In the night, we heard the howling of dogs, and people hallooing on +the east shore. + +The two following days were employed in clearing a place on Motuara Island +for erecting our tents for the sick (having then several on board much +afflicted with the scurvy), the sail-makers and coopers. On the top of the +island was a post erected, by the Endeavour's people, with her name and +time of departure on it. + +On the 9th, we were visited by three canoes with about sixteen of the +natives; and to induce them to bring us fish and other provisions, we gave +them several things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of our +young gentlemen seeing something wrapt up in a better manner than common, +had the curiosity to examine what it was; and to his great surprise found +it to be the head of a man lately killed. They were very apprehensive of +its being forced from them; and particularly the man who seemed most +interested in it, whose very flesh crept on his bones, for fear of being +punished by us, as Captain Cook had expressed his great abhorrence of this +unnatural act. They used every method to conceal the head, by shifting it +from one to another; and by signs endeavouring to convince us, that there +was no such thing amongst them, though we had seen it but a few minutes +before. They then took their leave of us, and went on shore. + +They frequently mentioned Tupia, which was the name of the native of +George's Island (or Otaheite), brought here by the Endeavour, and who died +at Batavia; and when we told them he was dead, some of them seemed to be +very much concerned, and, as well as we could understand them, wanted to +know whether we killed him, or if he died a natural death. By these +questions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. In the afternoon, they +returned again with fish and fern roots, which they sold for nails and +other trifles; though the nails are what they set the most value on. The +man and woman who had the head, did not come off again. Having a catalogue +of words in their language, we called several things by name, which +surprised them greatly. They wanted it much, and offered a great quantity +of fish for it. + +Next morning, they returned again, to the number of fifty or sixty, with +their chief at their head (as we supposed), in five double canoes. They +gave us their implements of war, stone hatchets, and clothes, &c. for nails +and old bottles, which they put a great value on. A number of the head men +came on board us, and it was with some difficulty we got them out of the +ship by fair means; but on the appearance of a musket with a fixed bayonet, +they all went into their canoes very quickly. We were daily visited by more +or less, who brought us fish in great plenty for nails, beads, and other +trifles, and behaved very peaceably. + +We settled the astronomer with his instruments, and a sufficient guard, on +a small island, that is joined to Motuara at low water, called the Hippa, +where there was an old fortified town that the natives had forsaken. Their +houses served our people to live in; and, by sinking them about a foot +inside, we made them very comfortable. Having done this, we struck our +tents on the Motuara, and having removed the ship farther into the cove on +the west shore, moored her for the winter. We then erected our tents near +the river or watering-place, and sent ashore all the spars and lumber off +the decks, that they might be caulked; and gave her a winter coat to +preserve the hull and rigging. + +1773 May + +On the 11th of May, we felt two severe shocks of an earthquake, but +received no kind of damage. On the 17th, we were surprised by the people +firing guns on the Hippa, and having sent the boat, as soon as she opened +the sound, had the pleasure of seeing the Resolution off the mouth of it. +We immediately sent out the boats to tow her in, it being calm. In the +evening she anchored about a mile without us; and next morning weighed +and warped within us. Both ships felt uncommon joy at our meeting, after +an absence of fourteen weeks. + +CHAPTER VIII. + +_Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Remarks on the +Inhabitants._ + +1773 May + +Knowing that scurvy-grass, celery, and other vegetables, were to be found +in this sound, I went myself the morning after my arrival, at day-break, to +look for some, and returned on board at breakfast with a boat-load. Being +now satisfied, that enough was to be got for the crews of both ships, I +gave orders that they should be boiled, with wheat and portable broth, +every morning for breakfast; and with peas and broth for dinner; knowing +from experience, that these vegetables, thus dressed, are extremely +beneficial, in removing all manner of scorbutic complaints. + +I have already mentioned a desire I had of visiting Van Diemen's Land, in +order to inform myself if it made a part of New Holland; and I certainly +should have done this, had the winds proved favourable. But as Captain +Furneaux had now, in a great measure, cleared up that point, I could have +no business there; and therefore came to a resolution to continue our +researches to the east, between the latitudes of 41° and 46°. I acquainted +Captain Furneaux therewith, and ordered him to get his ship in readiness to +put to sea as soon as possible. + +In the morning of the 20th, I sent ashore, to the watering-place near the +Adventure's tent, the only ewe and ram remaining, of those which I brought +from the Cape of Good Hope, with an intent to leave them in this country. +Soon after I visited the several gardens Captain Furneaux had caused to be +made and planted with various articles; all of which were in a flourishing +state, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of great utility to +them. The next day I set some men to work to make a garden on Long Island, +which I planted with garden seeds, roots, &c. + +On the 22d in the morning, the ewe and ram, I had with so much care and +trouble brought to this place, were both found dead, occasioned, as was +supposed, by eating some poisonous plant. Thus my hopes of stocking this +country with a breed of sheep, were blasted in a moment. About noon, we +were visited, for the first time since I arrived, by some of the natives, +who dined with us; and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening +they were dismissed with presents. + +Early in the morning of the 24th, I sent Mr Gilbert the master to sound +about the rock we had discovered in the entrance of the sound. Myself, +accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, went in a boat to the west +bay on a shooting party. In our way, we met a large canoe in which were +fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they asked was for +Tupia, the person I brought from Otaheite on my former voyage; and they +seemed to express some concern when we told them he was dead. These people +made the same enquiry of Captain Furneaux when he first arrived; and, on my +return to the ship in the evening, I was told that a canoe had been along- +side, the people in which seemed to be strangers, and who also enquired for +Tupia. Late in the evening Mr Gilbert returned, having sounded all round +the rock, which he found to be very small and steep. + +Nothing worthy of notice happened till the 29th, when several of the +natives made us a visit, and brought with them a quantity of fish, which +they exchanged for nails, &c. One of these people I took over to Motuara, +and shewed him some potatoes planted there by Mr Fannen, master of the +Adventure. There seemed to be no doubt of their succeeding; and the man was +so well pleased with them, that he, of his own accord, began to hoe the +earth up about the plants. We next took him to the other gardens, and +shewed him the turnips, carrots, and parsnips; roots which, together with +the potatoes, will be of more real use to them than all the other articles +we had planted. It was easy to give them an idea of these roots, by +comparing them with such as they knew. + +Two or three families of these people now took up their abode near us, +employing themselves daily in fishing, and supplying us with the fruits of +their labour; the good effects of which we soon felt. For we were, by no +means, such expert fishers as they are; nor were any of our methods of +fishing equal to theirs. + +1773 June + +On the 2d of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, I sent on +shore on the east side of the sound, two goats, male and female. The former +was something more than a year old; but the latter was much older. She had +two fine kids, some time before we arrived in Dusky Bay, which were killed +by cold, as hath been already mentioned. Captain Furneaux also put on +shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows; so that we have +reason to hope this country will in time be stocked with these animals, if +they are not destroyed by the natives before they become wild; for, +afterwards, they will be in no danger. But as the natives knew nothing of +their being left behind, it may be some time before they are discovered. + +In our excursion to the east, we met with the largest seal I had ever seen. +It was swimming on the surface of the water, and suffered us to come near +enough to fire at it; but without effect; for, after a chase of near an +hour, we were obliged to leave it. By the size of this animal, it probably +was a sea-lioness. It certainly bore much resemblance to the drawing in +Lord Anson's voyage; our seeing a sea-lion when we entered this sound, in +my former voyage, increaseth the probability; and I am of opinion, they +have their abode on some of the rocks, which lie in the strait, or off +Admiralty Bay. + +On the 3d, I sent a boat with the carpenter over to the east side of the +sound, to cut down some spars which we were in want of. As she was +returning, she was chased by a large double canoe full of people; but with +what intent is not known. Early the next morning, some of our friends +brought us a large supply of fish. One of them agreed to go away with us; +but afterwards, that is, when it came to the point, he changed his mind; as +did some others who had promised to go with the Adventure. + +It was even said that some of them offered their children to sale. I +however found that this was a mistake. The report first took its rise on +board the Adventure, where they were utter strangers to their language and +customs. It was very common for these people to bring their children with +them, and present them to us, in expectation that we would make them +presents; this happened to me the preceding morning. A man brought his son, +a boy about nine or ten years of age, and presented him to me. As the +report of selling their children was then current, I thought, at first, +that he wanted me to buy the boy. But at last I found that he wanted me to +give him a white shirt, which I accordingly did. The boy was so fond of his +new dress, that he went all over the ship, presenting himself before every +one that came in his way. This freedom used by him offended Old Will, the +ram goat, who gave him a butt with his horns, and knocked him backward on +the deck. Will would have repeated his blow, had not some of the people +come to the boy's assistance. The misfortune, however, seemed to him +irreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the +cabin before his father, until brought in by Mr Forster; when he told a +very lamentable story against goury the great dog (for so they call all the +quadrupeds we had aboard), nor could he be reconciled, till his shirt was +washed and dried. This story, though extremely trifling in itself, will +shew how liable we are to mistake these people's meaning, and to ascribe to +them customs they never knew even in thought. + +About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty +people, appeared in sight. Our friends on board seemed much alarmed, +telling us that these were their enemies. Two of them, the one with a +spear, and the other with a stone-hatchet in his hand, mounted the arm- +chests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those enemies +defiance; while the others, who were on board, took to their canoe and went +ashore, probably to secure the women and children. + +All I could do, I could not prevail on the two that remained to call these +strangers along-side; on the contrary, they were displeased at my doing it, +and wanted me to fire upon them. The people in the canoe seemed to pay very +little regard to those on board, but kept advancing slowly towards the +ship, and after performing the usual ceremonies, put along-side. After this +the chief was easily prevailed upon to come on board, followed by many +others, and peace was immediately established on all sides. Indeed, it did +not appear to me that these people had any intention to make war upon their +brethren. At least, if they had, they were sensible enough to know, that +this was neither the time nor place for them to commit hostilities. + +One of the first questions these strangers asked, was for Tupia; and when I +told them he was dead, one or two expressed their sorrow by a kind of +lamentation, which to me appeared more formal than real. A trade soon +commenced between our people and them. It was not possible to hinder the +former from selling the clothes from off their backs for the merest +trifles, things that were neither useful nor curious. This caused me to +dismiss the strangers sooner than I would have done. When they departed, +they went to Motuara, where, by the help of our glasses, we discovered four +or five canoes, and several people on the shore. This induced me to go over +in my boat, accompanied by Mr Forster and one of the officers. We were well +received by the chief and the whole tribe, which consisted of between +ninety and a hundred persons, men, women, and children, having with them +six canoes, and all their utensils; which made it probable that they were +come to reside in this sound. But this is only conjecture; for it is very +common for them, when they go but a little way, to carry their whole +property with them; every place being alike, if it affords them the +necessary subsistence; so that it can hardly be said they are ever from +home. Thus we may easily account for the emigration of those few families +we found in Dusky Bay. + +Living thus dispersed in small parties, knowing no head but the chief of +the family or tribe, whose authority may be very little, they feel many +inconveniences, to which well-regulated societies, united under one head or +any other form of government, are not subject. These form laws and +regulations for their general good; they are not alarmed at the appearance +of every stranger; and, if attacked or invaded by a public enemy, have +strong-holds to retire to, where they can with advantage defend themselves, +their property, and their country. This seems to be the state of most of +the inhabitants of Eahei-nomauwe; whereas those of Tavai-poenammoo, by +living a wandering life in small parties, are destitute of most of these +advantages, which subjects them to perpetual alarms. We generally found +them upon their guard, travelling and working, as it were with their arms +in their hands. Even the women are not exempted from bearing arms, as +appeared by the first interview I had with the family in Dusky Bay; where +each of the two women was armed with a spear, not less than 18 feet in +length. + +I was led into these reflections, by not being able to recollect the face +of any one person I had seen here three years ago: Nor did it once appear, +that any one of them had the least knowledge of me, or of any person with +me that was here at that time. It is therefore highly probable that the +greatest part of the people which inhabited this sound in the beginning of +the year 1770, have been since driven out of it, or have, of their own +accord, removed somewhere else. Certain it is, that not one third of the +inhabitants were here now, that were then. Their stronghold on the point of +Motuara hath been long deserted; and we found many forsaken habitations in +all parts of the sound. We are not, however, wholly to infer from this, +that this place hath been once very populous; for each family may, for +their own convenience, when they move from place to place, have more huts +than one or two. + +It may be asked, if these people had never seen the Endeavour, nor any of +her crew, how could they become acquainted with the name of Tupia, or have +in their possession (which many of them had) such articles, as they could +only have got from that ship? To this it may be answered, that the name of +Tupia was so popular among them when the Endeavour was here, that it would +be no wonder if, at this time, it was known over great part of New Zealand, +and as familiar to those who never saw him, as to those who did. Had ships, +of any other nation whatever, arrived here, they would have equally +enquired of them for Tupia. By the same way of reasoning, many of the +articles left here by the Endeavour, may be now in possession of those who +never saw her. I got from one of the people, now present, an ear ornament, +made of glass very well formed and polished. The glass they must have got +from the Endeavour. + +After passing about an hour on Motuara with these people, and having +distributed among them some presents, and shewed to the chief the gardens +we had made, I returned on board, and spent the remainder of our royal +master's birth-day in festivity; having the company of Captain Furneaux and +all his officers. Double allowance enabled the seamen to share in the +general joy. + +Both ships being now ready for sea, I gave Captain Furneaux an account in +writing of the route I intended to take; which was to proceed to the east, +between the latitudes of 41° and 46° S., until I arrived in the longitude +of 140° or 135° W., then, provided no land was discovered; to proceed to +Otaheite; from thence back to this place, by the shortest route; and after +taking in wood and water, to proceed to the south, and explore all the +unknown parts of the sea between the meridian of New Zealand and Cape Horn. +Therefore, in case of separation before we reached Otaheite, I appointed +that island for the place of rendezvous, where he was to wait till the 20th +of August: If not joined by me before that time, he was then to make the +best of his way back to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he was to wait until +the 20th of November: After which (if not joined by me,) he was to put to +sea, and carry into execution their lordships' instructions. + +Some may think it an extraordinary step in me to proceed on discoveries as +far south at 46° degrees of latitude, in the very depth of winter. But +though it most be owned, that winter is by no means favourable for +discoveries, it nevertheless appeared to me necessary that something should +be done in it, in order to lessen the work I was upon; lest I should not be +able to finish the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific +Ocean the ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover any land in my +route to the east, I should be ready to begin, with the summer, to explore +it. Setting aside all these considerations, I had little to fear; having +two good ships well provided; and healthy crews. Where then could I spend +my time better? If I did nothing more, I was at least in hopes of being +able to point out to posterity, that these seas may be navigated, and that +it is practicable to go on discoveries; even in the very depth of winter. + +During our stay in the sound, I had observed that this second visit made to +this country, had not mended the morals of the natives of either sex. I had +always looked upon the females of New Zealand to be more chaste than the +generality of Indian women. Whatever favours a few of them might have +granted to the people in the Endeavour, it was generally done in a private +manner, and the men did not seem to interest themselves much in it. But +now, I was told, they were the chief promoters of a shameful traffic, and +that for a spike-nail, or any other thing they value, they would oblige the +women to prostitute themselves, whether they would or no; and even without +any regard to that privacy which decency required. + +During our stay here, Mr Wales lost no opportunity to observe equal +altitudes of the sun, for obtaining the rates of the watches. The result of +his labours proved, that Mr Kendal's was gaining 9", 5 per day, and Mr +Arnold's losing 94", 15s per day, on mean time. + +CHAPTER IX. + +_Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of some low Islands, +supposed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bougainville._ + +1773 June + +On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being more favourable, +we unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea, with the Adventure in +company. We had no sooner got out of the sound, than we found the wind at +south, so that we had to ply through the straits. About noon the tide of +ebb setting out in our favour, made our boards advantageous; so that, at +five o'clock in the evening. Cape Palliser, on the island of Eahei-nomauwe, +bore S.S.E. 1/2 S., and Cape Koamaroo, or the S.E. point of the sound, N. by +W. 3/4 W.; presently after it fell calm, and the tide of flood now making +against us, carried us at a great rate back to the north. A little before +high-water, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the north, which soon +increased to a brisk gale. This, together with the ebb, carried us by eight +o'clock the next morning quite through the strait. Cape Palliser at this +time bore E.N.E., and at noon N. by W. distant seven leagues. + +This day at noon, when we attended the winding-up of the watches, the fusee +of Mr Arnold's would not turn round, so that after several unsuccessful +trials we were obliged to let it go down. + +After getting clear of the straits, I directed my course S.E. by E., having +a gentle gale, but variable between the north and west. The late S.E. winds +having caused a swell from the same quarter, which did not go down for some +days, we had little hopes of meeting with land in that direction. We +however continued to steer to the S.E., and on the 11th crossed the +meridian of 180°, and got into the west longitude, according to my way of +reckoning. + +On the 16th, at seven in the morning, the wind having veered round to S.E., +we tacked and stretched to N.E., being at this time in the latitude of 47° +7', longitude 173° W. In this situation we had a great swell from N.E. + +The wind continued at S.E. and S.S.E., blew fresh at intervals, and was +attended with sometimes fair, and at other times rainy weather, till the +20th, on which day, being in the latitude of 44° 30', longitude 165° 45' +W., the wind shifted to the west, blew a gentle gale, and was attended with +fair weather. With this we steered E. by N., E. by S., and E., till the 23d +at noon, when, being in the latitude of 44° 38' S., longitude 161° 27' W., +we had a few hours calm. The calm was succeeded by a wind at east, with +which we stood to the north. The wind increased and blew in squalls, +attended with rain, which at last brought us under our courses; and at two +o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, we were obliged to lie-to under +the foresail, having a very hard gale from E.N.E., and a great sea from the +same direction. + +At seven o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the gale being more moderate, +we made sail under the courses, and in the afternoon set the top-sails +close-reefed. At midnight, the wind having veered more to the north, we +tacked and stretched to the S.E., being at this time in the latitude of 42° +53' S., longitude 163° 20' W. + +We continued to stretch to the S.E., with a fresh gale and fair weather, +till four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, when we stood again to +the N.E., till midnight between the 27th and 28th. Then we had a few hours +calm, which was succeeded by faint breezes from the west. At this time we +were in the latitude of 42° 32', longitude 161° 15' W. The wind remained +not long at west, before it veered back to the E. by the N., and kept +between the S.E. and N.E., but never blew strong. + +1773 July + +On July 2d, being in the latitude of 53° 3', longitude 156° 17' W., we had +again a calm, which brought the wind back to the west; but it was of no +longer continuance than before. For the next day it returned to the E. and +S.E., blew fresh at times, and by squalls, with rain. + +On the 7th, being in the latitude of 41° 22', longitude 156° 12' W., we had +two hours calm; in which time Mr Wales went on board the Adventure to +compare the watches, and they were found to agree, allowing for the +difference of their rates of going: A probable, if not a certain proof, +that they had gone well since we had been in this sea. + +The calm was succeeded by a wind from the south; between which point and +the N.W., it continued for the six succeeding days, but never blew strong. +It was, however, attended with a great hollow swell from the S.W. and W., a +sure indication that no large land was near in those directions. We now +steered east, inclining to the south, and on the 10th, in the latitude of +43° 39', longitude 144° 43' W., the variation was found, by several +azimuths, to be more than 3° E., but the next morning it was found to be 4° +5' 30", and in the afternoon, 5° 56' E. The same day, at noon, we were in +the latitude of 43° 44', longitude 141° 56' W. + +At nine o'clock in the morning of the 12th, the longitude was observed as +follows, viz. + + Self 1st set 139° 47' 15" + Ditto, 2d set 140 7 30 + Mr Wales 1st set 141 22 15 + Mr Wales 2d set 140 10 0 + Mr Clerke 140 56 45 + Mr Gilbert 140 2 0 + -------------- + Mean 140 24 17-1/2 West. + +This differed from my reckoning only 2° 1/2. The next morning, in the +latitude of 43° 3', longitude 139° 20' W., we had several lunar +observations, which were consonant to those made the day before, allowing +for the ship's run in the time. In the afternoon we had, for a few hours, +variable light airs next to a calm; after which we got a wind from the +N.E., blowing fresh and in squalls, attended with dark gloomy weather, and +some rain. + +We stretched to the S.E. till five o'clock in the afternoon on the 14th, at +which time, being in the latitude of 43° 15', longitude 137° 39' W., we +tacked and stood to the north under our courses, having a very hard gale +with heavy squalls, attended with rain, till near noon the next day, when +it ended in a calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 42° 39', +longitude 137° 58' W. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze +from S.W., which soon after increased to a fresh gale; and fixing at S.S.W, +with it we steered N.E. 1/2 E. in the latitude of 41° 25', longitude 135° +58' W., we saw floating in the sea a billet of wood, which seemed to be +covered with barnacles; so that there was no judging how long it might have +been there, or from whence or how far it had come. + +We continued to steer N.E. 1/2 E., before a very strong gale which blew in +squalls, attended with showers of rain and hail, and a very high sea from +the same quarter, till noon, on the 17th. Being then in the latitude of 39° +44', longitude 133° 32' W., which was a degree and a half farther east than +I intended to run; nearly in the middle between my track to the north in +1769, and the return to the south in the same year, and seeing no signs of +land, I steered north-easterly, with a view of exploring that part of the +sea lying between the two tracks just mentioned, down as low as the +latitude of 27°, a space that had not been visited by any preceding +navigator that I knew of. + +On the 19th, being in the latitude of 36° 34', longitude 133° 7' W., we +steered N. 1/2 W., having still the advantage of a hard gale at south, +which the next day veered to S.E. and E., blew hard and by squalls, +attended with rain and thick hazy weather. This continued till the evening +of the 21st, when the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and the wind +backed to the S. and S.E. + +We were now in the latitude of 32° 30', longitude 133° 40' W., from this +situation we steered N.N.W. till noon the next day, when we steered a point +more to the west; being at this time in the latitude of 31° 6', longitude +134° 12' W. The weather was now so warm, that it was necessary to put on +lighter clothes; the mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 63. It had +never been lower than 46, and seldom higher than 54, at the same time of +the day, since we left New Zealand. + +This day was remarkable by our not seeing a single bird. Not one had passed +since we left the land, without seeing some of the following birds, viz. +albatrosses, sheerwaters, pintadoes, blue peterels, and Port Egmont hens. +But these frequent every part of the Southern Ocean in the higher +latitudes: Not a bird, nor any other thing, was seen that could induce us +to think that we had ever been in the neighbourhood of any land. + +The wind kept veering round from the S. by the W. to N.N.W., with which we +stretched north till noon the next day, when, being in the latitude of 29° +22', we tacked and stretched to the westward. The wind soon increased to a +very hard gale, attended with rain, and blew in such heavy squalls as to +split the most of our sails. This weather continued till the morning of the +25th, when the wind became more moderate, and veered to N.W. and W.N.W., +with which we steered and stretched to N.E., being at that time in the +latitude of 29° 51', longitude 130° 28' W. In the afternoon the sky cleared +up, and the weather became fair and settled. We now met the first tropic +bird we had seen in this sea. + +On the 26th, in the afternoon, being in the latitude of 28° 44', we had +several observations of the sun and moon, which gave the longitude 135° 30' +W. My reckoning at the same time was 135° 27', and I had no occasion to +correct it since I left the land. We continued to stretch to the north, +with light breezes from the westward, till noon, the next day, when we were +stopped by a calm; our latitude at this time being 27° 53', longitude 135° +17' W. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the N. and +N.W., with which we plied to the N. + +On the 29th I sent on board the Adventure to enquire into the state of her +crew, having heard that they were sickly; and this I now found was but too +true. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were down in the +scurvy and flux. At this time _we_ had only three men on the sick list, and +only one of them attacked with the scurvy. Several more, however, began to +shew symptoms of it, and were accordingly put upon the wort, marmalade of +carrots, rob of lemons and oranges. + +I know not how to account for the scurvy raging more in the one ship than +the other, unless it was owing to the crew of the Adventure being more +scorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than we were, and to their +eating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, +partly for want of knowing the right sorts, and partly because it was a new +diet, which alone was sufficient for seamen to reject it. To introduce any +new article of food among seamen, let it be ever so much for their good, +requires both the example and authority of a commander; without both, of +which it will be dropt before the people are sensible of the benefits +resulting from it. Were it necessary, I could name fifty instances in +support of this remark. Many of my people, officers as well seamen, at +first disliked celery, scurvy-grass, &c., being boiled in the peas and +wheat; and some refused to eat it. But, as this had no effect on my +conduct, this obstinate kind of prejudice by little and little wore off; +they began to like it as well as the others; and now, I believe, there was +hardly a man in the ship that did not attribute our being so free from the +scurvy, to the beer and vegetables we made use of at New Zealand. After +this I seldom found it necessary to order any of my people to gather +vegetables, whenever we came where any were to be got, and if scarce, happy +was he who could lay hold on them first. I appointed one of my seamen to be +cook of the Adventure, and wrote to Captain Furneaux, desiring him to make +use of every method in his power to stop the spreading of the disease +amongst his people, and proposing such as I thought might tend towards it. +But I afterwards found all this unnecessary, as every method had been used +they could think of. + +1773 August + +The wind continued in the N.W. quarter, and blew fresh at times, attended +with rain; with which we stood to the N.E. On the 1st of August, at noon, +we were in the latitude of 25° 1', longitude 134° 6' W., and had a great +hollow swell from N.W. The situation we were now in, was nearly the same +that Captain Carteret assigns for Pitcairn's Island, discovered by him in +1767. We therefore looked well out for it, but saw nothing. According to +the longitude in which he has placed it, we must have passed about fifteen +leagues to the west of it. But as this was uncertain, I did not think it +prudent, considering the situation of the Adventure's people, to lose any +time in looking for it. A sight of it would, however, have been of use in +verifying, or correcting, not only the longitude of this isle, but of the +others that Captain Carteret discovered in this neighbourhood; his +longitude not being confirmed, I think, by astronomical observations, and +therefore liable to errors, which he could have no method to correct. + +As we had now got to the northward of Captain Carteret's tracks, all hopes +of discovering a continent vanished. Islands were all we were to expect to +find, until we returned again to the south. I had now, that is on this and +my former voyage, crossed this ocean in the latitude of 40° and upwards, +without meeting any thing that in the least induced me to think I should +find what I was in search after. On the contrary, every thing conspired to +make me believe there is no southern continent, between the meridian of +America and New Zealand; at least, this passage did not produce any +indubitable signs of any, as will appear by the following remarks. After +leaving the coasts of New Zealand, we daily saw floating on the sea rock- +weed, for the space of 18° of longitude. In my passage to New Zealand in +1769, we also saw this weed, for the space of 12 or 14° of longitude before +we made the land. The weed is undoubtedly the produce of New Zealand; +because the nearer the coast, the greater quantity you see. At the greatest +distance from the coast, we saw it only in small pieces, generally more +rotten, and covered with barnacles, an indubitable sign that it had been +long at sea. Were it not for this, one might be led to conjecture that some +other large land lay in the neighbourhood; for it cannot be a small extent +of coast to produce such a quantity of weed, as to cover so large a space +of sea. It hath been already mentioned, that we were no sooner clear of the +straits, than we met with a large hollow swell from the S.E., which +continued till we arrived in the longitude of 177° W., and latitude 46°. +There we had large billows from the N. and N.E., for five days +successively, and until we got 5° of longitude more to the east, although +the wind, great part of the time, blew from different directions. This was +a strong indication that there was no land between us and my track to the +west in 1769. After this, we had, as is usual in all great oceans, large +billows from every direction in which the wind blew a fresh gale, but more +especially from the S.W. These billows never ceased with the cause that +first put them in motion; a sure indication that we were not near any large +land, and that there is no continent to the south, unless in a very high +latitude. But this was too important a point to be left to opinions and +conjectures. Facts were to determine it, and these could only be obtained +by visiting the southern parts; which was to be the work of the ensuing +summer, agreeable to the plan I had laid down. As the winds continued to +blow from the N.W. and W., we had no other choice but to stand to the +north, inclining more or less every day to the east. In the latitude of 21° +we saw flying-fish, gannets, and egg-birds. On the sixth, I hoisted a boat +out, and sent for Captain Furneaux to dinner, from whom I learnt that his +people were much better, the flux having left them, and the scurvy was at a +stand. Some cyder which he happened to have, and which he gave to the +scorbutic people, contributed not a little to this happy change. The +weather to-day was cloudy, and the wind very unsettled. This seemed to +announce the approach of the so-much-wished-for trade-wind; which, at eight +o'clock in the evening, after two hours calm, and some heavy showers of +rain, we actually got at S.E. We were, at this time, in the latitude of 19° +36' S., longitude 131° 32" W. The not meeting with the S.E. trade-wind +sooner, is no new thing in this sea. As we had now got it, I directed my +course to the W.N.W., as well to keep in the strength of it, as to get to +the north of the islands discovered in my former voyage; that if any other +islands lay in the way, I might have a chance to discover them. During +the day-time we made all the sail we could; but, in the night, either run +an easy sail, or lay-to. We daily saw flying-fish, albacores, dolphins, +&c., but neither by striking, nor with hook and line, could we catch any of +them. This required some art, which none of my people were masters of. + +On the 11th at day-break, land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearer +approach, we found to be an island of about two leagues in extent, in the +direction of N.W. and S.E., and clothed with wood, above which the cocoa- +nut trees shewed their lofty heads. I judged it to be one of those isles +discovered by Mr Bougainville. It lies in the latitude of 17° 24', +longitude 141° 39' W., and I called it after the name of the ship, +Resolution Island. The sickly state of the Adventure's crew made it +necessary for me to make the best of my way to Otaheite, where I was sure +of finding refreshments. Consequently I did not wait to examine this +island, which appeared too small to supply our wants, but continued our +course to the west, and at six o'clock in the evening, land was seen from +the mast-head, bearing W. by S. Probably this was another of Bougainville's +discoveries. I named it Doubtful Island, and it lies in the latitude of 17° +20', longitude 141° 38' W. I was sorry I could not spare time to haul to +the north of Mr Bougainville's track; but the getting to a place where we +could procure refreshments, was more an object at this time than +discovery. + +During the night we steered W. by N., in order to pass the north of the +island above-mentioned. At day-break the next morning, we discovered land +right a-head, distant about two miles; so that day-light advised us of our +danger but just in time. This proved another of these low or half-drowned +islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty leagues in circuit. +A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little islets ranged +along the north side, and connected by sand-banks and breakers. These +islets were clothed with wood, among which the cocoa-nut trees were only +distinguishable. We ranged the south side of this isle or shoal at the +distance of one or two miles from the coral-bank, against which the sea +broke in a dreadful surf. In the middle is a large lake or inland sea, in +which was a canoe under sail. + +This island, which I named after Captain Furneaux, lies in the latitude of +17° 5', longitude 143° 16' W. The situation is nearly the same that is +assigned for one of those discovered by Bougainville. I must here observe, +that amongst these low and half-drowned isles (which are numerous in this +part of the ocean,) Mr Bougainville's discoveries cannot be known to that +degree of accuracy which is necessary to distinguish them from others. We +were obliged to have recourse to his chart for the latitudes and longitudes +of the isles he discovered, as neither the one nor the other is mentioned +in his narrative. Without waiting to examine this island we continued to +steer to the west, all sails set, till six o'clock in the evening, when we +shortened sail to three top-sails, and at nine brought-to. + +The next morning at four a.m. we made sail, and at daybreak saw another of +these low islands, situated in the latitude of 17° 4', longitude 144° 30' +W., which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. de Bougainville very +properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the Dangerous +Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced us that we +were surrounded by them, and how necessary it was to proceed with the +utmost caution, especially in the night. + +At five o'clock p.m. we again saw land, bearing S.W. by S., which we +afterwards found to be Chain Island, discovered in my former voyage. But as +I was not sure of it at this time, and being desirous of avoiding the delay +which lying by in the night occasioned, I hoisted out the cutter, and +manned her with an officer and seven men, with orders to keep as far a-head +of the ships, with a light at her masthead, as a signal could be +distinguished, which she was to make in case she met with any danger. In +this manner we continued to run all night; and, at six o'clock the next +morning, I called her on board, and hoisted her in. For it did not appear +she would be wanted again for this purpose, as we had now a large swell +from the south, a sure sign that we were clear of the low islands; +therefore I steered for Otaheite without being apprehensive of meeting with +any danger. + +CHAPTER X. + +_Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the critical +Situation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened while they +lay in Oaiti-piha Bay._ + +1773 August + +On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, we saw Osnaburg Island, or +Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis, bearing S. by W. 1/2 W. Soon after I +brought-to, and waited for the Adventure to come up with us, to acquaint +Captain Furneaux that it was my intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near +the south-east end of Otaheite, in order to get what refreshments we could +from that part of the island, before we went down to Matavia. This done, we +made sail, and at six in the evening saw the land bearing west. We +continued to stand on till midnight, when we brought-to, till four o'clock +in the morning, and then made sail in for the land with a fine breeze at +east. + +At day-break we found ourselves not more than half a league from the reef. +The breeze now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This made it +necessary to hoist out our boats to tow the ships off; but all their +efforts were not sufficient to keep them from being carried near the reef. +A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, +bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which +they exchanged for nails, beads, &c. The most of them knew me again, and +many enquired for Mr Banks and others who were with me before; but not one +asked for Tupia. As the calm continued, our situation became still more +dangerous. We were, however, not without hopes of getting round the western +point of the reef and into the bay, till about two o'clock in the +afternoon, when we came before an opening or break in the reef, through +which I hoped to get with the ships. But on sending to examine it, I found +there was not a sufficient depth of water; though it caused such an in- +draught of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving fatal to +the Resolution; for as soon as the ships got into the stream, they were +carried with great impetuosity towards the reef. The moment I perceived +this, I ordered one of the warping machines, which we had in readiness, to +be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope; but it had not the +least effect. The horrors of shipwreck now stared us in the face. We were +not more than two cables length from the breakers; and yet we could find no +bottom to anchor, the only probable means we had left to save the ships. +We, however, dropt an anchor; but, before it took hold, and brought us up, +the ship was in less than three fathom water, and struck at every fall of +the sea, which broke close under our stem in a dreadful surf, and +threatened us every moment with shipwreck. The Adventure, very luckily, +brought up close upon our bow without striking. + +We presently carried out two kedge-anchors, with hawsers to each; these +found ground a little without the bower, but in what depth we never knew. +By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower-anchor, we got the ship a- +float, where we lay some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every +minute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two +by the rocks. At length the tide ceased to act in the same direction. I +ordered all the boats to try to tow off the Resolution; and when I saw this +was practicable, we hove up the two kedges. At that moment, a light air +came off from the land, which so much assisted the boats, that we soon got +clear of all danger. Then I ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure, +but before they reached her, she was under sail with the land-breeze, and +soon after joined us, leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable, +and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus we were once more safe at +sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island we but a few +days before so ardently wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us into +this dangerous situation, very fortunately continued; for, had the sea- +breeze, as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost, +and probably the Adventure too. + +During the lime we were in this critical situation, a number of the natives +were on board and about the ships. They seemed to be insensible of our +danger, shewing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when we were +striking, and left us a little before sun-set, quite unconcerned. + +We spent the night, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards; +and the next morning, being the 17th, we anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay in +twelve fathoms water about two cables length from the shore; both ships +being by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who brought +with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananoes, apples, yams, and other roots, +which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several, who called themselves +chiefs, I made presents of shirts, axes, and several other articles, and, +in return, they promised to bring me hogs and fowls, a promise they never +did, nor ever intended to perform. + +In the afternoon, I landed in company with Captain Furneaux, in order to +view the watering-place, and to sound the disposition of the natives, I +also sent a boat to get some water for present use, having scarcely any +left on board. We found this article as convenient as could be expected, +and the natives to behave with great civility. + +Early in the morning, I sent the two launches and the Resolution's cutter, +under the command of Mr Gilbert, to endeavour to recover the anchors we had +left behind us; they returned about noon, with the Resolution's bower +anchor, but could not recover any of the Adventure's. The natives came off +again with fruit, as the day before, but in no great quantity. I also had a +party on shore, trading under the protection of a guard; nothing, however, +was brought to market but fruit and roots, though many hogs were seen (I +was told) about the houses of the natives. The cry was, that they belonged +to Waheatoun the _Earee de hi_, or king, and him we had not yet seen, +nor, I believe, any other chief of note. Many, however, who called +themselves _Earees_, came on board, partly with a view of getting +presents, and partly to pilfer whatever came in their way. + +One of this sort of _Earees_ I had, most of the day, in the cabin, and +made presents to him and all his friends, which were not few; at length he +was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out +of the quarter gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to me +against those on deck, which occasioned my turning them all out of the +ship. My cabin guest made good haste to be gone; I was so much exasperated +at his behaviour, that after he had got some distance from the ship, I +fired two muskets over his head, which made him quit the canoe, and take to +the water; I then sent a boat to take up the canoe, but as she came near +the shore, the people from thence began to pelt her with stones. Being in +some pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, I went myself in another boat +to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired +along the coast, which made them all retire from the shore, and I was +suffered to bring away two canoes without the least shew of opposition. In +one of the canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened, but I soon +dissipated his fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on shore. A few +hours after, we were all good friends again, and the canoes were returned +to the first person who came for them. + +It was not till the evening of this day, that any one enquired after Tupia, +and then but two or three. As soon as they learnt the cause of his death, +they were quite satisfied; indeed, it did not appear to me, that it would +have caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his death +been occasioned by any other means than by sickness. As little enquiry was +made after Aotourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville. But +they were continually asking for Mr Banks, and several others who were with +me in my former voyage. + +These people informed us, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninsula +of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought between the two +kingdoms about five months before, and that _Otoo_ was the reigning +prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of our principal friends about +Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of common people; but, +at present, a peace subsisted between the two kingdoms. + +On the 19th, we had gentle breezes easterly, with some smart showers of +rain. Early in the morning, the boats were again sent to recover the +Adventure's anchors, but returned with the same ill success as the day +before, so that we ceased to look for them any longer, thinking ourselves +very happy in having come off so well, considering the situation we had +been in. In an excursion which Captain Furneaux and I made along the coast, +we met with a chief who entertained us with excellent fish, fruit, &c. In +return for his hospitality, I made him a present of an axe and other +things; and he afterwards accompanied us back to the ships, where he made +but a short stay. + +Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the dusk of the evening, +when one of the natives made off with a musquet belonging to the guard on +shore. I was present when this happened, and sent some of our people after +him, which would have been to little purpose, had not some of the natives, +of their own accord, pursued the thief. They knocked him down, took from +him the musquet, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occasion, certainly +operated more with them than principle. They deserve, however, to be +applauded for this act of justice, for, if they had not given their +immediate assistance, it would hardly have been in my power to have +recovered the musquet, by any gentle means whatever, and by making use of +any other, I was sure to lose more than ten times its value. + +The 21st, the wind was at north, a fresh breeze. This morning a chief made +me a visit, and presented me with a quantity of fruit, among which, were a +number of cocoanuts we had drawn the water from, and afterwards thrown, +over board; these he had picked up, and tied in bundles so artfully, that +we did not at first perceive the cheat; when he was told of it, without +betraying the least emotion, and, as if he knew nothing of the matter, he +opened two or three of them himself, signified to us, that he was satisfied +it was so, and then went ashore and sent off a quantity of plantains and +bananoes. Having got on board a supply of water, fruit, and roots, I +determined to sail in the morning to Matavai, as I found it was not likely +that I should get an interview with Waheatoua, without which, it was very +improbable we should get any hogs. Two of the natives, who knew my +intention, slept on board, with a view of going with us to Matavai, but, in +the morning, the wind blew fresh at N.W., and as we could not sail, I sent +the trading party on shore as usual. + +In the evening, I was informed that Waheatoua was come into the +neighourhood, and wanted to see me. In consequence of this information, I +determined to wait one day longer, in order to have an interview with this +prince. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set out in company with +Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of the natives. We met the chief +about a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was advancing to meet +us; but, as soon as he saw us, he stopt, with his numerous train, in the +open air. I found him seated upon a stool, with a circle of people round +him, and knew him at first sight, and he me, having seen each other several +times in 1769. At that time he was but a boy, and went by the name of +Tearee, but, upon the death of his father, Waheatoun, he took upon him that +name. + +After the first salutation was over, having seated me on the same stool +with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by us, he began to +enquire after several by name who were with me on my former voyage. He next +enquired how long I would stay, and when I told him no longer than next +day, he seemed sorry, asked me to stay some months, and at last came down +to five days, promising, that in that time I should have hogs in plenty; +but, as I had been here already a week, without so much as getting one, I +could not put any faith in this promise; and yet, I believe, if I had +staid, we should have fared much better than at Matavai. The present I made +him consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad axe, spike-nails, knives, +looking-glasses, medals, beads, &c.; in return, he ordered a pretty good +hog to be carried to our boat. We staid with him all the morning, during +which time, he never suffered me to go from his side, where he was seated. +I was also seated on the same stool, which was carried from place to place +by one of his attendants, whom he called stool-bearer. At length we took +leave, in order to return on board to dinner, after which, we visited him +again, and made him more presents, and he, in return, gave Captain Furneaux +and me each of us an hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the trading +places; so that we got in the whole, to-day, as much fresh pork as gave the +crews of both the ships a meal; and this in consequence of our having this +interview with the chief. + +The 24th, early in the morning, we put to sea with a light land-breeze. +Soon after we were out, we got the wind at west, which blew in squalls, +attended with heavy showers of rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to sea, +with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and did not leave us till they had +disposed of their cargoes. + +The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recovery of the +Adventure's sick people; many of them, who had been so ill as not to be +able to move without assistance, were, in this short time so far recovered, +that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in here, the +Resolution had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine, who had been +long sick, and who died the second day after our arrival, of a complication +of disorders, without the least mixture of the scurvy. I left Lieutenant +Pickersgill, with the cutter, behind the bay, to purchase hogs, as several +had promised to bring some down to-day, and I was not willing to lose them. + +On the 25th; about noon, Mr Pickersgill returned with eight hogs, which he +got at Oaiti-piha. He spent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertained +by Ereti, the chief of that district. It was remarkable, that this chief +never once asked after Aotouroo, nor did he take the least notice when Mr +Pickersgill mentioned his name. And yet M. de Bougainville tells us, this +is the very chief who presented Aotourou to him; which makes it the more +extraordinary, that he should neither enquire after him now, nor when he +was with us at Matavai, especially as they believed that we and M. de +Bougainville came from the same country, that is, from _Pretane_, for +so they called our country. They had not the least knowledge of any other +European nation, nor probably will they, unless some of those men should +return who had lately gone from the isle, of which mention shall be made +bye and bye. We told several of them, that M. de Bougainville came from +France, a name they could by no means pronounce; nor could they pronounce +that of Paris much better; so that it is not likely that they will remember +either the one or the other long; whereas _Pretane_ is in every +child's mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till the +evening of this day that we arrived in Matavai bay. + +CHAPTER XI. + +_An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats being left on +the Island; and many other Particulars which happened while the Ships lay +in Matavai Bay._ + +1773 August + +Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with the natives; many +of whom I knew, and almost all of them knew me. A great crowd were gotten +together upon the shore; amongst whom was Otoo their king. I was just going +to pay him a visit, when I was told he was _mataow'd_, and gone to +Oparree. I could not conceive the reason of his going off in a fright, as +every one seemed pleased to see me. A chief, whose name was Maritata, was +at this time on board, and advised me to put off my visit till the next +morning, when he would accompany me; which I accordingly did. + +After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the sick, +coopers, sail-makers, and the guard, I set out on the 26th for Oparree; +accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and others, Maritata and his +wife. As soon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo, whom we found seated +on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd around him. +After the first compliments were over, I presented him with such articles +as I guessed were most valuable in his eyes; well knowing that it was my +interest to gain the friendship of this man. I also made presents to +several of his attendants; and, in return, they offered me cloth, which I +refused to accept; telling them that what I had given was for _tiyo_ +(friendship). The king enquired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were +with me in my former voyage, by name; although I do not remember that he +was personally acquainted with any of us. He promised that I should have +some hogs the next day; but I had much ado to obtain a promise from him to +visit me on board. He said he was, _mataou no to poupoue_, that is, +afraid of the guns. Indeed all his actions shewed him to be a timorous +prince. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine, +personable, well-made man as one can see. All his subjects appeared +uncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by uncovering, +is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort of clothing +above the breast. + +When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the astronomer's +observatories, set up on the same spot where we observed the transit of +Venus in 1769. In the afternoon, I had the sick landed; twenty from the +Adventure, all ill of the scurvy; and one from the Resolution. I also +landed some marines for a guard, and left the command to Lieutenant +Edgecumbe of the marines. + +On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid +me a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, +a hog, and two large fish; and, after some persuasion, came aboard himself, +with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of his attendants. To +all of them I made presents; and, after breakfast, took the king, his +sister, and as many more as I had room for, into my boat, and carried them +home to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met by a venerable old +lady, the mother of the late Toutaha. She seized me by both hands, and +burst into a flood of tears, saying, _Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty +Toutaha_--(Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead.) I was +so much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible for +me to have refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and +taken me from her. I, with some difficulty, prevailed on him to let me see +her again, when I gave her an axe and some other things. Captain Furneaux, +who was with me, presented the king with two fine goats, male and female, +which if taken care of, or rather if no care at all is taken of them will +no doubt multiply. After a short stay, we look leave and returned on board. + +Very early in the morning on the 28th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the +cutter, as far as Ottahourou, to procure hogs. A little after sun-rise, I +had another visit from Otoo, who brought me more cloth, a pig, and some +fruit. His sister, who was with him, and some of his attendants, came on +board; but he and others went to the Adventure with the like present to +Captain Furneaux. It was not long before he returned with Captain Furneaux +on board the Resolution, when I made him a handsome return for the present +he had brought me, and dressed his sister out in the best manner I could. +She, the king's brother, and one or two more, were covered before him to- +day. When Otoo came into the cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were +sitting there. The moment they saw the king enter, they stripped themselves +in great haste, being covered before. Seeing I took notice of it, they said +_Earee, Earee_; giving me to understand that it was on account of Otoo +being present. This was all the respect they paid him; for they never rose +from their seats, nor made him any other obeisance. When the king thought +proper to depart, I carried him again to Oparree in my boat; where I +entertained him and his people with the bagpipes (of which music they are +very fond) and dancing by the seamen. He then ordered some of his people to +dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There were some, +however, who could imitate the seamen pretty well, both in country-dances +and hornpipes. While we were here, I had a present of cloth from the late +Toutaha's mother. This good old lady could not look upon me without +shedding tears; however, she was far more composed than before. When we +took leave, the king promised to visit me again the next day; but said that +I must first come to him. In the evening Mr Pickersgill came back empty, +but with a promise of having some hogs, if he would return in a few days. + +Next morning after breakfast, I took a trip to Oparree, to visit Otoo as he +had requested, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and some of the officers. We +made him up a present of such things as he had not seen before. One article +was a broad-sword; at the sight of which he was so intimidated, that I had +much ado to persuade him to accept of it, and to have it buckled upon him; +where it remained but a short time, before he desired leave to take it off, +and send it out of his sight. + +Soon after we were conducted to the theatre; where we were entertained with +a dramatic _heuva_, or _play_, in which were both dancing and +comedy. The performers were five men, and one woman, who was no less a +person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only; it +lasted about an hour and a half, or two hours; and, upon the whole, was +well conducted. It was not possible for us to find out the meaning of the +play. Some part seemed adapted to the present time, as my name was +frequently mentioned. Other parts were certainly wholly unconnected with +us. It apparently differed in nothing, that is, in the manner of acting it, +from those we saw at Ulielea in my former voyage. The dancing-dress of the +lady was more elegant than any I saw there, by being decorated with long +tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. As soon as all +was over, the king himself desired me to depart; and sent into the boat +different kinds of fruit and fish, ready dressed. With this we returned on +board; and the next morning he sent me more fruit, and several small +parcels of fish. + +Nothing farther remarkable happened till ten o'clock in the evening, when +we were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise, on shore, near +the bottom of the bay, at some distance from our encampment. I suspected +that it was occasioned by some of our own people; and immediately armed a +boat, and sent on shore, to know the occasion of this disturbance, and to +bring off such of our people as should be found there. I also sent to the +Adventure, and to the post on shore, to know who were missing; for none +were absent from the Resolution but those who were upon duty. The boat soon +returned with three marines and a seaman. Some others belonging to the +Adventure were also taken; and, being all put under confinement, the next +morning I ordered them to be punished according to their deserts. I did not +find that any mischief was done, and our people would confess nothing. I +believe this disturbance was occasioned by their making too free with the +women. Be this as it will, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled +from their habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread many +miles along the coast. For when I went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by +appointment, I found him removed, or rather fled, many miles from the place +of his abode. Even there I was obliged to wait some hours, before I could +see him at all; and when I did, he complained of the last night's riot. + +As this was intended to be my last visit, I had taken with me a present +suitable to the occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep, which +he had seen before and asked for; for these people never lose a thing by +not asking for it. He was much pleased with them; though he could be but +little benefited, as they were all weathers; a thing he was made acquainted +with. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears, and +opened his heart so much, that he sent for three hogs; one for me, one for +Captain Furneaux, and one for Mr Forster. This last was small, of which we +complained, calling it _ete, ete_. Presently after a man came into the +circle, and spoke to the king with some warmth, and in a very peremptory +manner; saying something or other about hogs. We at first thought he was +angry with the king for giving us so many, especially as he took the little +pig away with him. The contrary, however, appeared to be the true cause of +his displeasure; for, presently after he was gone, a hog, larger than +either of the other two, was brought us in lieu of the little one. When we +took leave, I acquainted him that I should sail from the island the next +day; at which he seemed much moved, and embraced me several times. We +embarked to return on board, and he, with his numerous train, directed his +march back to Oparree. + +1773 September + +The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water-casks repaired, and +water completed, as well as the necessary repairs of the ships, I +determined to put to sea without farther delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of +September, I ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, and the +ships to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the most of the day. In +the afternoon, Mr Pickersgill returned from Attahourou; to which place I +had sent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been promised. My old +friend Pottatou, the chief of that district, his wife, or mistress, (I know +not which,) and some more of his friends, came along with Mr Pickersgill, +in order to visit me. They brought me a present of two hogs and some fish; +and Mr Pickersgill got two more hogs, by exchange, from Oamo; for he went +in the boat as far as Paparra, where he saw old Oberea. She seemed much +altered for the worse, poor, and of little consequence. The first words she +said to Mr Pickersgill were, _Earee mataou ina boa_, Earee is +frightened, you can have no hogs. By this it appeared that she had little +or no property, and was herself subject to the Earee, which I believe was +not the case when I was here before. The wind, which had blown westerly all +day, having shifted at once to the east, we put to sea; and I was obliged +to dismiss my friends sooner than they wished to go; but well satisfied +with the reception they had met with. + +Some hours before we got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo, +came and desired I would take him with me. I consented, thinking he might +be of service to us on some occasion. Many more offered themselves, but I +refused to take them. This youth asked me for an axe and a spike-nail for +his father, who was then on board. He had them accordingly, and they parted +just as we were getting under sail, more like two strangers than father and +son. This raised a doubt in me whether it was so; which was farther +confirmed, by a canoe, conducted by two men, coming along-side, as we were +standing out of the bay, and demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. I +now saw that the whole was a trick to get something from me; well knowing +that Otoo was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the +matter. Poreo seemed, however, at first undetermined whether he should go +or stay; but he soon inclined to the former. I told them to return me the +axe and nails, and then he should go, (and so he really should,) but they +said they were on shore, and so departed. Though the youth seemed pretty +well satisfied, he could not refrain from weeping when he viewed the land +astern. + +CHAPTER XII. + +_An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, with the Incidents +that happened while the Ships lay there; and of Omai, one of the Natives, +coming away in the Adventure._ + +1773 September + +As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I directed my course +for the island of Huaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it the next +day, and spent the night, making short boards under the north end of the +island. At day-light, in the morning of the 3d, we made sail for the +harbour of Owharre; in which the Resolution anchored, about nine o'clock, +in twenty-four fathoms water. As the wind blew out of the harbour, I chose +to turn in by the southern channel, it being the widest. The Resolution +turned in very well, but the Adventure, missing stays, got ashore on the +north side of the channel. I had the Resolution's launch in the water +ready, in case of an accident of this kind, and sent her immediately to the +Adventure. By this timely assistance, she was got off again, without +receiving any damage. Several of the natives, by this time, had come off to +us, bringing with them some of the productions of the island; and as soon +as the ships were both in safety, I landed with Captain Furneaux, and was +received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. I distributed some +presents among them; and they presently after brought down hogs, fowls, +dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, +beads, &c. The like trade was soon opened on board the ships; so that we +had a fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and +fowls; and to people in our situation, this was no unwelcome thing. I +learnt that my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, and +that he was hastening to this part to see me. + +Early next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a +trading party, toward the south end of the isle. I also sent another +trading party on shore near the ships, with which I went myself, to see +that it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a very necessary +point to be attended to. Every thing being settled to my mind, I went, +accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to pay my first visit to +Oree, who, I was told, was waiting for me. We were conducted to the place +by one of the natives; but were not permitted to go out of our boat, till +we had gone through some part of the following ceremony usually performed +at this isle, on such like occasions. The boat in which we were desired to +remain being landed before the chief's house, which stood close to the +shore, five young plaintain trees, which are their emblems of peace, were +brought on board separately, and with some ceremony. Three young pigs, with +their ears ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three; +and a dog, the fourth. Each had its particular name and purpose, rather too +mysterious for us to understand. Lastly, the chief sent to me the +inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which I left with him in +July 1769. It was in the same bag I had made for it, together with a piece +of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, put in at the same time; +which shews how well he had taken care of the whole. When they had made an +end of putting into the boat the things just mentioned, our guide, who +still remained with us, desired us to decorate the young plaintain trees +with looking-glasses, nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordingly +done, we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted towards the +chief, through the multitude; they making a lane, as it were, for us to +pass through. We were made to sit down a few paces short of the chief, and +our plantains were then taken from us, and, one by one, laid before him, as +the others had been laid before us. One was for _Eatoua_ (or God), the +second for the _Earee_ (or king), and the third for _Tiyo_ (or +friendship). This being done, I wanted to go to the king, but was told that +he would come to me; which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck, and +embraced me. This was by no means ceremonious; the tears which trickled +plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently bespoke the +language of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends were +introduced to us, to whom we made presents. Mine to the chief consisted of +the most valuable articles I had; for I regarded this man as a father. In +return he gave me a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising that all our +wants should be supplied; and it will soon appear how well he kept his +word. At length we took leave, and returned on board; and, some time after, +Mr Pickersgill returned also with fourteen hogs. Many more were got by +exchanges on shore, and along-side the ships; besides fowls and fruit in +abundance. + +This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th, +together with some of his friends, bringing me a hog and some fruit, for +which I made him a suitable return. He carried his kindness so far, as not +to fail to send me every day, for my table, the very best of ready dressed +fruit and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant Pickersgill being again +sent with the two boats, in search of hogs, returned in the evening with +twenty-eight; and about four times that number were purchased on shore, and +along-side the ships. + +Next morning the trading party, consisting of only two or three people, +were sent on shore as usual; and, after breakfast, I went to the place +myself, when I learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very troublesome +and insolent. This man being pointed out to me, completely equipped in the +war habit, with a club in each hand, as he seemed bent on mischief, I took +these from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with some difficulty, +forced him to retire from the place. As they told me that he was a chief, +this made me the more suspicious of him, and occasioned me to send for a +guard, which till now I had thought unnecessary. About this time, Mr +Sparrman, having imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was set upon by two +men, who stripped him of every thing he had about him, except his trowsers, +and struck him several times with his own hanger, but happily did him no +harm. As soon as they had accomplished their end, they made off; after +which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and +conducted him to the trading place, where were a great number of the +inhabitants. The very instant Mr Sparrman appeared in the condition I have +just mentioned, they all fled with the utmost precipitation. I at first +conjectured they had stolen something; but we were soon undeceived upon Mr +Sparrman's relating the affair to us. As soon as I could recal a few of the +natives, and had made them sensible that I should take no step to injure +those who were innocent, I went to Oree to complain of this outrage, taking +with us the man who came back with Mr Sparrman, to confirm the complaint. +As soon as the chief heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, as did +many others. After the first transports of his grief were over, he began to +expostulate with his people, telling them (as far as we could understand) +how well I had treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and how +base it was in them to commit such actions. He then took a very minute +account of the things Mr Sparrman had been robbed of, promised to do all in +his power to recover them, and, rising up, desired me to follow him to my +boat. When the people saw this, being, as I supposed, apprehensive of his +safety, they used every argument to dissuade him from what they, no doubt, +thought a rash step. He hastened into the boat, notwithstanding all they +could do or say. As soon as they saw their beloved chief wholly in my +power, they set up a great outcry. The grief they shewed was inexpressible; +every face was bedewed with tears; they prayed, entreated, nay, attempted +to pull him out of the boat. I even joined my entreaties to theirs; for I +could not bear to see them in such distress. All that could be said, or +done, availed nothing. He insisted on my coming into the boat, which was no +sooner done than he ordered it to be put off. His sister, with a spirit +equal to that of her royal brother, was the only person who did not oppose +his going. As his intention in coming into our boat was to go with us in +search of the robbers, we proceeded accordingly as far as was convenient by +water, then landed, entered the country, and travelled some miles inland, +the chief leading the way, enquiring of every one he saw. At length he +stepped into a house by the road side, ordered some cocoa-nuts for us, and +after we were a little refreshed, wanted to proceed still farther. But this +I opposed, thinking that we might be carried to the very farthest end of +the island, after things, the most of which, before they came into our +hands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief used many +arguments to persuade me to proceed, telling me that I might send my boat +round to meet us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if I +thought it too far to travel. But I was resolved to return, and he was +obliged to comply and return with me, when he saw I would follow him no +farther. I only desired he would send somebody for the things; for I found +that the thieves had got so much start of us, that we might follow them to +the remotest parts of the isle, without so much as seeing them. Besides, as +I intended to sail the next morning, this occasioned a great loss to us, by +putting a stop to all manner of trade; for the natives were so much +alarmed, that none came near us, but those that were about the chief. It +therefore became the more necessary for me to return, to restore things to +their former state. When we got back to our boat, we there found Oree's +sister, and several more persons, who had travelled by land to the place. +We immediately stepped into the boat in order to return on board, without +so much as asking the chief to accompany us. He, however, insisted on going +also, and followed us into the boat in spite of the opposition and +entreaties of those about him; his sister followed his example, and the +tears and prayers of her daughter, who was about sixteen or eighteen years +of age, had no weight with her on this occasion. The chief sat at table +with us, and made a hearty dinner; his sister, according to custom, eat +nothing. After dinner, I sufficiently rewarded them for the confidence they +had put in me; and, soon after, carried them both on shore, where some +hundreds of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced their +chief with tears of joy. All was now joy and peace: The people crowded in, +from every part, with hogs, fowls, and fruit, so that we presently filled +two boats: Oree himself presented me with a large hog and a quantity of +fruit. The hanger (the only thing of value Mr Sparrman had lost) with part +of his coat, were brought us; and we were told, we should have the others +the next day. Some of the officers, who were out on a shooting party, had +some things stolen from them, which were returned in like manner. + +Thus ended the troublesome transactions of this day, which I have been the +more particular in relating, because it shews what great confidence this +brave old chief put in us; it also in some degree shews, that friendship is +sacred with them. Oree and I were professed friends in all the forms +customary among them; and he seemed to think that this could not be broken +by the act of any other persons. Indeed this seemed to be the great +argument he made use of to his people, when they opposed his going into my +boat. His words were to this effect:--"Oree (meaning me, for so I was +always called) and I are friends; I have done nothing to forfeit his +friendship; why then should I not go with him?" We, however, may never find +another chief who will act in the same manner, under similar circumstances. +It may be asked, What had he to fear? to which I answer, Nothing. For it +was not my intention to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a moment +longer than he desired. But how was he or the people to know this? They +were not ignorant, that if he was once in my power, the whole force of the +island could not take him from me, and that, let my demands for his ransom +have been ever so high, they must have complied with them. Thus far their +fears, both for his and their own safety, were founded in reason. + +On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring, I went to +pay my farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr +Forster. We took with us for a present, such things as were not only +valuable, but useful. I also left with him the inscription plate he had +before in keeping, and another small copper-plate, on which were engraved +these words: "Anchored here, his "Britannic Majesty's ships Resolution and +Adventure, September, 1773," together with some medals, all put up in a +bag; of which the chief promised to take care, and to produce to the first +ship or ships that should arrive at the island. He then gave me a hog; and, +after trading for six or eight more, and loading the boat with fruit, we +took leave, when the good old chief embraced me with tears in his eyes. At +this interview nothing was said about the remainder of Mr Sparrman's +clothes. I judged they were not brought in; and for that reason did not +mention them, lest I should give the chief pain about things I did not give +him time to recover; for this was early in the morning. + +When we returned to the ships, we found them crowded round with canoes full +of hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our first arrival. I had not been long on +board, before Oree himself came to inform me, as we understood, that the +robbers were taken, and to desire us to go on shore, either to punish, or +to see them punished; but this could not be done, as the Resolution was +just under sail, and the Adventure already out of the harbour. The chief +stayed on board till we were a full half league out at sea; then took a +most affectionate leave of me; and went away in a canoe, conducted by one +man and himself; all the others having gone long before. I was sorry that +it was not convenient for me to go on shore with him, to see in what manner +these people would have been punished; for I am satisfied, this was what +brought him on board. + +During our short stay at the small but fertile isle of Huaheine, we +procured to both ships not less than three hundred hogs, besides fowls and +fruits; and, had we stayed longer, might have got many more: For none of +these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but appeared every +where in as great abundance as ever. + +Before we quitted this island, Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board +his ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea; where he had had some +property, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. I at +first rather wondered that Captain Furneaux would encumber himself with +this man, who, in my opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of +these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank; +nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion: For their people of the +first rank are much fairer, and usually better behaved, and more +intelligent, than the middling class of people, among whom Omai is to be +ranked. I have, however, since my arrival in England, been convinced of my +error: For excepting his complexion (which is undoubtedly of a deeper hue +than that of the _Earees_, or gentry, who, as in other countries, live +a more luxurious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun), I much +doubt whether any other of the natives would have given more general +satisfaction by his behaviour among us. Omai has most certainly a very good +understanding, quick parts, and honest principles; he has a natural good +behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best company; and a proper +degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons of +inferior rank. He has passions of the same kind as other young men, but has +judgment enough not to indulge them in any improper excess. I do not +imagine that he has any dislike to liquor, and if he had fallen into +company where the person who drank the most met with the most approbation, +I have no doubt, but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applause of +those with whom he associated; but, fortunately for him, he perceived that +drinking was very little in use but among inferior people, and as he was +very watchful into the manners and conduct of the persons of rank who +honoured him with their protection, he was sober and modest, and I never +heard that, during the whole time of his stay in England, which was two +years, he ever once was disguised with wine, or ever shewed an inclination +to go beyond the strictest rules of moderation. + +Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the first Lord of +the Admiralty, introduced him to his majesty at Kew, when he met with a +most gracious reception, and imbibed the strongest impression of duty and +gratitude to that great and amiable prince, which I am persuaded he will +preserve to the latest moment of his life. During his stay among us he was +caressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit the +esteem of any one of them; but his principal patrons were the Earl of +Sandwich, Mr Banks, and Dr Solander; the former probably thought it a duty +of his office to protect and countenance an inhabitant of that hospitable +country, where the wants and distresses of those in his department had been +alleviated and supplied in the most ample manner; the others, as a +testimony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with +during their residence in his country. It is to be observed, that though +Omai lived in the midst of amusements during his residence in England, his +return to his native country was always in his thoughts, and though he was +not impatient to go, he expressed a satisfaction as the time of his return +approached. He embarked with me in the Resolution, when she was fitted out +for another voyage, loaded with presents from his several friends, and full +of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced among +us. + +CHAPTER XIII. + +_Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With an Account of +what happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives, coming away in the +Resolution._ + +1773 September + +The chief was no sooner gone, than we made sail for Ulietea (where I +intended to stop a few days). Arriving off the harbour of Ohamaneno at the +close of the day, we spent the night making short boards. It was dark, but +we were sufficiently guided by the fishers lights on the reefs and shores +of the isles. The next morning, after making a few trips, we gained the +entrance of the harbour; and, as the wind blew directly out, I sent a boat +to lie in soundings, that we might know when to anchor. As soon as the +signal was made by her, we borrowed close to the south point of the +channel; and, with our sails set, shooting within the boat, we anchored in +seventeen fathoms water. We then carried out anchors and hawsers, to warp +in by; and, as soon as the Resolution was out of the way, the Adventure +came up in like manner, and warped in by the Resolution. The warping in, +and mooring the ships, took up the whole day. + +We were no sooner at anchor at the entrance of the harbour, than the +natives crowded round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. The latter +they exchanged for nails and beads; the former we refused as yet, having +already as many on board as we could manage. Several we were, however, +obliged to take, as many of the principal people brought off little pigs, +pepper, or eavoa-root, and young plantain trees, and handed them into the +ship, or put them into the boats along-side, whether we would or no; for if +we refused to take them on board, they would throw them into the boats. In +this manner, did these good people welcome us to their country. + +I had forgot to mention, that Tupia was much enquired after at Huaheine; +but, at this place, every one asked about him, and the occasion of his +death; and, like true philosophers, were perfectly satisfied with the +answers we gave them. Indeed, as we had nothing but the truth to tell, the +story was the same, by whomsoever told. + +Next morning we paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the +isle, carrying with us the necessary presents. We went through no sort of +ceremony at landing, but were at once conducted to him. He was seated in +his own house, which stood near the water side, where he and his friends +received us with great cordiality. He expressed much satisfaction at seeing +me again, and desired that we might exchange names, which I accordingly +agreed to. I believe this is the strongest mark of friendship they can show +to a stranger. He enquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen, by name, who +were with me when I first visited the island. After we had made the chief +and his friends the necessary presents, we went on board with a hog, and +some fruit, received from him in return; and in the afternoon he gave me +another hog, still larger, without asking for the least acknowledgment. +Exchanges for fruit, &c. were mostly carried on alongside the ships. I +attempted to trade for these articles on shore, but did not succeed, as the +most of them were brought in canoes from distant parts, and carried +directly to the ships. + +After breakfast, on the 10th, Captain Furneaux and I paid the chief a +visit; and we were entertained by him with such a comedy, or dramatic +_heava_, as is generally acted in these isles. The music consisted of +three drums, the actors were seven men, and one woman, the chief's +daughter. The only entertaining part in the drama, was a theft committed by +a man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficiently +displayed the genius of the people in this vice. The theft is discovered +before the thief has time to carry off his prize; then a scuffle ensues +with those set to guard it, who, though four to two, are beat off the +stage, and the thief and his accomplices bear away their plunder in +triumph. I was very attentive to the whole of this part, being in full +expectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had before +been informed that _Teto_ (that is, the Thief) was to be acted, and +had understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good +_tiparahying_ (or beating), a punishment, we are told, they inflict on +such as are guilty of this crime. Be this as it may, strangers are +certainly excluded from the protection of this law; them they rob with +impunity, on every occasion that offers. After the play was over, we +returned on board to dinner; and in the cool of the evening took a walk on +shore, where we learnt from one of the natives, that nine small islands, +two of which were uninhabited, lay to the westward, at no great distance +from hence. + +On the 11th, early in the morning, I had a visit from Oreo and his son, a +youth about twelve years of age. The latter brought me a hog and some +fruit; for which I made him a present of an axe, and dressed him in a +shirt, and other things, which made him not a little proud of himself. +Having staid some hours, they went on shore; as I also did soon after, but +to another part. The chief hearing I was on shore, came to the place where +he found the boat, into which he put a hog and a quantity of fruit, without +saying a word to any body, and, with some of his friends, came on board, +and dined with us. After dinner I had a visit from Oo-oorou, the principal +chief of the isle. He was introduced to us by Oreo, and brought with him, +as a present, a large hog, for which I made him a handsome return. Oreo +employed himself in buying hogs for me (for we now began to take of them), +and he made such bargains as I had reason to be satisfied with. At length +they all took leave, after making me promise to visit them next morning; +which I accordingly did, in company with several of the officers and +gentlemen. Oreo ordered an _heava_ to be acted for our entertainment, +in which two very pretty young women were the actresses. This _heava_ +was somewhat different from the one I saw before, and not so entertaining. +Oreo, after it was over, accompanied us on board, together with two of his +friends. + +The following day was spent much in the same manner; and early in the +morning of the 14th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the Resolution's launch, +and Adventure's cutter, to Otaha, to procure an additional supply of +bananoes, and plantains, for a sea-store; for we could get little more of +these articles at Ulietea than were sufficient for present consumption. +Oreo, and some of his friends, paid me a pretty early visit this morning. I +acquainted the chief, that I would dine with him, and desired he would +order two pigs to be dressed after their manner, which he accordingly did, +and, about one o'clock, I, and the officers and gentlemen of both ships, +went to partake of them. When we came to the chiefs house, we found the +cloth laid; that is, green leaves were strewed thick on the floor. Round +them we seated ourselves; presently one of the pigs came over my head souce +upon the leaves, and immediately after the other; both so hot as hardly to +be touched. The table was garnished round with hot bread-fruit and +plantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for drink. Each man being +ready, with his knife in his hand, we turned to without ceremony; and it +must be owned, in favour of their cookery, that victuals were never +cleaner, nor better dressed. For, though the pigs were served up whole, and +one weighed between fifty and sixty pounds, and the other about half as +much, yet all the parts were equally well done, and eat much sweeter than +if dressed in any of our methods. The chief and his son, and some other of +his male friends, eat with us, and pieces were handed to others who sat +behind: For we had a vast crowd about us; so that it might be truly said we +dined in public. The chief never failed to drink his glass of Madeira +whenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when he +dined with us, without ever being once affected by it. As soon as we had +dined, the boat's crew took the remainder; and by them, and those about +them, the whole was consumed. When we rose up, many of the common people +rushed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which they +searched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe, that though +there is plenty of pork at these isles, but little falls to their share. +Some of our gentlemen being present when these pigs were killed and +dressed, observed the chief to divide the entrails, lard, &c. into ten or +twelve equal parts, and serve it out to certain people. Several daily +attended the ships, and assisted the butchers, for the sake of the entrails +of the hogs we killed. Probably little else falls to the share of the +common people. It however must be owned, that they are exceedingly careful +of every kind of provision, and waste nothing that can be eaten by man; +flesh and fish especially. + +In the afternoon we were entertained with a play. Plays, indeed, had been +acted almost every day since we had been here, either to entertain +_us_, or for their own amusement, or perhaps both. + +Next morning produced some circumstances which fully prove the timorous +disposition of these people. We were surprised to find that none of them +came off to the ships as usual. Two men belonging to the Adventure having +staid on shore all night, contrary to orders, my first conjectures were, +that the natives had stripped them, and were now afraid to come near us, +lest we should take some step to revenge the insult; but in order to be +better satisfied, Captain Furneaux and I went ashore to Oreo's house, which +we found quite empty; he and all his family gone, and the whole +neighbourhood, in a manner, quite deserted. The two men belonging to the +Adventure made their appearance, and informed us that they had been very +civilly treated by the natives, but could give no account of the cause of +their precipitate flight. All that we could learn from the very few that +durst come near us, was, that severals were killed, others wounded by our +guns, pointing out to us where the balls went in and out of the body, &c. +This relation gave me a good deal of uneasiness for the safety of our +people gone to Otaha, fearing that some disturbance had happened at that +island. However, in order to be better informed, I determined, if possible, +to see the chief himself. Accordingly we embarked in our boat, having one +of the natives with us, and rowed along shore to the northward, the way we +were told he was gone. We soon came in sight of the canoe in which he was; +but before we could come up with her he had got on shore. We landed +presently after, and found he was gone still farther. An immense crowd, +however, waited our landing, who entreated me to follow him. One man +offered to carry me on his back; but the whole story appearing rather more +mysterious than ever, and being all unarmed, I did not choose to separate +myself from the boat, but embarked again, and rowed after him. We soon came +before the place where our guide told us he was, and put in the boat +accordingly. It grounded at some distance from the shore, where we were met +by a venerable old lady, wife to the chief. She threw herself into my arms, +and wept bitterly, insomuch that it was not possible to get one plain word +from her. With this old lady in my hand I went ashore, contrary to the +advice of my young man from Otaheite, who was more afraid than any of us, +probably believing every word the people had told us. I found the chief +seated under the shade of a house, before which was a large area, and +surrounded by a vast number of people. As soon as I came to him, he threw +his arms about me, and burst into tears, in which he was accompanied by all +the women, and some of the men, so that the lamentation became general; +astonishment alone kept me from joining with them. It was some time before +I could get a word from any one; at last, all my enquiries gave me no other +information, than that they were alarmed on account of our boats being +absent, thinking that the people in them had deserted from us, and that I +should take some violent means to recover them. For when we assured them +that the boats would return back, they seemed cheerful and satisfied, and +to a man, denied that any one was hurt, either of their own or our people, +and so it afterwards proved. Nor did it appear that there was the least +foundation for these alarms, nor could we ever find out by what means this +general consternation first took its rise. After a stay of about an hour, I +returned on board, three of the natives coming along with us, who +proclaimed the peace as we rowed along shore to all they saw. + +Thus matters were again restored to their former footing, and the next +morning they came off to the ships as usual. After breakfast, Captain +Furneaux and I paid the chief a visit; we found him at his own house +perfectly easy, insomuch that he and some of his friends came on board and +dined with us. I was now told that my Otaheitean young man, Poreo, had +taken a resolution to leave me. I have just mentioned _before_, his +being with us when I followed Oreo, and his advising me not to go on shore. +He was so much afraid at that time, that he remained in the boat till he +heard all matters were reconciled; then he came out, and presently after, +met with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendship. Having my +powder-horn in keeping, he came and gave it to one of my people who was by +me, and then went away with her, and I saw him no more. + +In the afternoon, our boats returned from Otaha, pretty well laden with +plantains, an article we were most in want of. They made the circuit of the +island, conducted by one of the Earees, whose name was Boba, and were +hospitably entertained by the people, who provided them with victuals and +lodging. The first night, they were entertained with a play, the second, +their repose was disturbed by the natives stealing their military chest. +This put them on making reprisals, by which means they recovered the most +of what they had lost. + +Having now got on board a large supply of refreshments, I determined to put +to sea the next morning, and made the same known to the chief, who promised +to see me again before we departed. At four o'clock we began to unmoor; and +as soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and some of his friends, came +aboard. Many canoes also came off with fruit and hogs, the latter they even +begged of us to take from them, calling out _Tiyo boa atoi_.--I am +your friend, take my hog, and give me an axe. But our decks were already +so full of them, that we could hardly move, having, on board both ships, +between three and four hundred. By the increase of our stock, together with +what we had salted and consumed, I judge that we got at this island 400 or +upwards; many, indeed, were only roasters, others again weighed one hundred +pounds, or upwards, but the general run was from forty to sixty. It is not +easy to say how many we might have got, could we have found room for all +that were offered us. + +The chief, and his friends, did not leave me till we were under sail, and +before he went away, pressed me much to know, if I would not return, and +when? Questions which were daily put to me by many of these islanders. My +Otaheitean youth's leaving me proved of no consequence, as many young men +of this island voluntarily offered to come away with us. I thought proper +to take on board one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years of age, +named Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great +Opoony, chief of that island. Soon after we were out of the harbour, and +had made sail, we observed a canoe following us, conducted by two men; +whereupon I brought-to, and they presently came alongside, having brought +me a present of roasted fruit and roots from Oreo. I made them a proper +return before I dismissed them, and then set sail to the west, with the +Adventure in company. + +CHAPTER XIV. + +_An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present State of the +Islands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs of the +Inhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected._ + +1773 September + +I shall now give some farther account of these islands; for, although I +have been pretty minute in relating the daily transactions, some things, +which are rather interesting, have been omitted. + +Soon after our arrival at Otaheite, we were informed that a ship about the +size of the Resolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour, near the S.E. end +of the island, where she remained about three weeks; and had been gone +about three months before we arrived. We were told that four of the natives +were gone away with her, whose names were Debedebea, Paoodou, Tanadooee, +and Opahiah. At this time, we conjectured this was a French ship, but, on +our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, we learnt she was a Spaniard, which +had been sent out from America. The Otaheiteans complained of a disease +communicated to them by the people in this ship, which they said affected +the head, throat, and stomach, and at length killed them. They seemed to +dread it much, and were continually enquiring if we had it. This ship they +distinguished by the name of _Pahai no Pep-pe_ (ship of Peppe), and +called the disease _Apa no Pep-pe_, just as they call the venereal +disease _Apa no Pretane_ (English disease), though they, to a man, say +it was brought to the isle by M. de Bougainville; but I have already +observed that they thought M. de Bougainville came from _Pretane_, as +well as every other ship which has touched at the isle. + +Were it not for this assertion of the natives, and none of Captain Wallis's +people being affected with the venereal disease, either while they were at +Otaheite, or after they left it, I should have concluded that long before +these islanders were visited by Europeans, this or some disease which is +near akin to it, had existed amongst them. For I have heard them speak of +people dying of a disorder which we interpreted to be the pox before that +period. But, be this as it will, it is now far less common amongst them, +than it was in the year 1769, when I first visited these isles. They say +they can cure it, and so it fully appears, for, notwithstanding most of my +people had made pretty free with the women, very few of them were +afterwards affected with the disorder; and those who were, had it in so +slight a manner, that it is easily removed. But among the natives, whenever +it turns to a pox, they tell us it is incurable. Some of our people pretend +to have seen some of them who had this last disorder in a high degree, but +the surgeon, who made it his business to enquire, could never satisfy +himself in this point. These people are, and were, before Europeans visited +them, very subject to scrophulous diseases, so that a seaman might easily +mistake one disorder for another. + +The island of Otaheite, which, in the years 1767 and 1768, as it were, +swarmed with hogs and fowls, was now so ill supplied with these animals, +that hardly any thing could induce the owners to part with them. The few +they had at this time, among them, seemed to be at the disposal of the +kings. For while we lay at Oaitipiha Bay, in the kingdom of Tiarrabou, or +lesser peninsula, every hog or fowl we saw we were told belonged to +Waheatoua; and all we saw in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greater +peninsula, belonged to Otoo. During the seventeen days we were at this +island, we got but twenty-four hogs, the half of which came from the two +kings themselves; and, I believe, the other half were sold us by their +permission or order. We were, however, abundantly supplied with all the +fruits the island produces, except bread-fruit, which was not in season +either at this or the other isles. Cocoa-nuts and plantains were what we +got the most of; the latter, together with a few yams and other roots, were +to us a succedaneum for bread. At Otaheite we got great plenty of apples, +and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them _Aheeva_. This fruit was +common to all the isles; but apples we got only at Otaheite, and found them +of infinite use to the scorbutic people. Of all the seeds that have been +brought to those islands by Europeans, none have succeeded but pumpkins; +and these they do not like, which is not to be wondered at. + +The scarcity of hogs at Otaheite may be owing to two causes; first, to the +number which have been consumed, and carried off by the shipping which have +touched here of late years; and, secondly, to the frequent wars between the +two kingdoms. We know of two since the year 1767; at present a peace +subsists between them, though they do not seem to entertain much friendship +for each other. I never could learn the cause of the late war, nor who got +the better in the conflict. In the battle, which put an end to the dispute, +many were killed on both sides. On the part of Opoureonu, fell Toutaha, and +several other chiefs, who were mentioned to me by name. Toutaha lies +interred in the family Marai at Oparree; and his mother, and several other +women who were of his household, are now taken care of by Otoo, the +reigning prince--a man who, at first, did not appear to us to much +advantage. I know but little of Waheatoua of Tiarrabou. This prince, who is +not above twenty years of age, appeared with all the gravity of a man of +fifty. His subjects do not uncover before him, or pay him any outward +obeisance as is done to Otoo; nevertheless, they seem to shew him full as +much respect, and he appeared in rather more state. He was attended by a +few middle-aged, or elderly men, who seemed to be his counsellors. This is +what appeared to me to be the then state of Otaheite. The other islands, +that is, Huaheine, Ulietea, and Otaha, were in a more flourishing state +than they were when I was there before. Since that time, they had enjoyed +the blessing of peace; the people seemed to be as happy as any under +heaven; and well they may, for they possess not only the necessaries, but +many of the luxuries of life in the greatest profusion; and my young man +told me that hogs, fowls, and fruits, are in equal plenty at Bola-bola, a +thing which Tupia would never allow. To clear up this seeming +contradiction, I must observe, that the one was prejudiced against, and the +other in favour of, this isle. + +The produce of the islands, the manners and customs of the natives, &c. +having been treated at large in the narrative of my former voyage, it will +be unnecessary to take notice of these subjects in this, unless where I can +add new matter, or clear up any mistakes which may have been committed. + +As I had some reason to believe, that amongst their religious customs, +human sacrifices were sometimes considered as necessary, I went one day to +a _Marai_ in Matavai, in company with Captain Furneaux; having with +us, as I had upon all other occasions, one of my men who spoke their +language tolerably well, and several of the natives, one of whom appeared +to be an intelligent sensible man. In the _Marai_ was a +_Tupapow_, on which lay a corpse and some viands; so that every thing +promised success to my enquiries. I began with asking questions relating to +the several objects before me, if the plantains, &c. were for the +_Eatua_? If they sacrificed to the _Eatua_, hogs, dogs, fowls, +&c.? To all of which he answered in the affirmative. I then asked, If they +sacrificed men to the _Eatua_? He answered _Taata eno_; that is, +bad men they did, first _Tipperahy_, or beating them till they were +dead. I then asked him, If good men were put to death in this manner? His +answer was No, only _Taata eno_. I asked him if any _Earees_ +were? He said, they had hogs to give to the _Eatua_, and again +repeated _Taatu eno_. I next asked, If _Towtows_, that is, +servants or slaves, who had no hogs, dogs, or fowls, but yet were good men, +if they were sacrificed to the _Eatua_? His answer was No, only bad +men. I asked him several more questions, and all his answers seemed to tend +to this one point, that men for certain crimes were condemned to be +sacrificed to the gods, provided they had not wherewithal to redeem +themselves. This, I think, implies, that on some occasions, human +sacrifices are considered as necessary, particularly when they take such +men as have, by the laws of their country, forfeited their lives, and have +nothing to redeem them; and such will generally be found among the lower +class of people. + +The man of whom I made these enquiries, as well as some others, took some +pains to explain the whole of this custom to us; but we were not masters +enough of their language to understand them. I have since learnt from Omai, +that they offer human sacrifices to the Supreme Being. According to his +account, what men shall be so sacrificed, depends on the caprice of the +high priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn occasion, retires +alone into the house of God, and stays there some time. When he comes out, +he informs them, that he has seen and conversed with their great God (the +high priest alone having that privilege), and that he has asked for a human +sacrifice, and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a man +present, whom, most probably, the priest has an antipathy against. He is +immediately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resentment, who, +no doubt (if necessary), has address enough to persuade the people that he +was a bad man. If I except their funeral ceremonies, all the knowledge that +has been obtained of their religion, has been from information: And as +their language is but imperfectly understood, even by those who pretend to +the greatest knowledge of it, very little on this head is yet known with +certainty. + +The liquor which they make from the plant called _Ava ava_, is +expressed from the root, and not from the leaves, as mentioned in the +narrative of my former voyage. The manner of preparing this liquor is as +simple as it is disgusting to an European. It is thus: Several people take +some of the root, and chew it till it is soft and pulpy, then they spit it +out into a platter or other vessel, every one into the same; when a +sufficient quantity is chewed, more or less water is put to it, according +as it is to be strong or weak; the juice, thus diluted, is strained through +some fibrous stuff like fine shavings; after which it is fit for drinking, +and this is always done immediately. It has a pepperish taste, drinks flat, +and rather insipid. But, though it is intoxicating I only saw one instance +where it had that effect, as they generally drink it with great moderation, +and but little at a time. Sometimes they chew this root in their mouths, +as Europeans do tobacco, and swallow their spittle; and sometimes I have +seen them eat it wholly. + +At Ulietea they cultivate great quantities of this plant. At Otaheite but +very little. I believe there are but few islands in this sea, that do not +produce more or less of it; and the natives apply it to the same use, as +appears by Le Mair's account of Horn Island, in which he speaks of the +natives making a liquor from a plant in the same manner as above mentioned. + +Great injustice has been done the women of Otaheite, and the Society isles, +by those who have represented them, without exception, as ready to grant +the last favour to any man who will come up to their price. But this is by +no means the case; the favours of married women, and also the unmarried of +the better sort, are as difficult to be obtained here, as in any other +country whatever. Neither can the charge be understood indiscriminately of +the unmarried of the lower class, for many of these admit of no such +familiarities. That there are prostitutes here, as well as in other +countries, is very true, perhaps more in proportion, and such were those +who came on board the ships to our people, and frequented the post we had +on shore. By seeing these mix indiscriminately with those of a different +turn, even of the first rank, one is at first inclined to think that they +are all disposed the same way, and that the only difference is in the +price. But the truth is, the woman who becomes a prostitute does not seem, +in their opinion, to have committed a crime of so deep a dye as to exclude +her from the esteem and society of the community in general. On the whole, +a stranger who visits England might, with equal justice, draw the +characters of the women there, from those which he might meet with on board +the ships in one of the naval ports, or in the purlieus of Covent-Garden +and Drury-Lane. I must however allow, that they are all completely versed +in the art of coquetry, and that very few of them fix any bounds to their +conversation. It is therefore no wonder that they have obtained the +character of libertines. + +To what hath been said of the geography of these isles, in the narrative of +my former voyage, I shall now only add, that we found the latitude of +Oaiti-piha Bay, in Otaheite, to be 17° 43' 26" south, and the longitude 0° +21' 25" 1/2 east from Point Venus; or 149° 13' 24" west from Greenwich. The +difference both of latitude and longitude, between Point Venus and Oaiti- +piha, is greater than I supposed it to be, when I made the circuit of the +island in 1769, by two miles, and 4-3/4 miles respectively. It is therefore +highly probable, that the whole island is of a greater extent than I, at +that time, estimated it to be. The astronomers set up their observatory, +and made their observations on Point Venus, the latitude of which they +found to be 17° 29' 13" south. This differs but two seconds from that which +Mr Green and I found; and its longitude, viz. 149° 34' 49" 1/2 west, for +any thing that is yet known to the contrary, is as exact. + +Mr Kendal's watch was found to be gaining on mean time 8" 863 per day, +which is only 0" 142 less than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, consequently its +error in longitude was trifling. + +A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD. + +BOOK II. + +FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLES, TO OUR RETURN TO AND LEAVING +THEM THE SECOND TIME. + +CHAPTER I. + +_Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account of the +Discovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened at +Middleburg._ + +1773 September + +After leaving Ulietea, as before mentioned, I steered to the west, +inclining to the south, to get clear of the tracts of former navigators, +and to get into the latitude of the islands of Middleburgh and Amsterdam; +for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch there if I +found it convenient, before I hauled up for New Zealand. I generally lay-to +every night, lest we might pass any land in the dark. Part of the 21st and +22d the wind blew from N.W., attended with thunder, lightning, and rain, +having a large swell from S.S.E. and S., which kept up for several days,-- +an indication that no land was near us in that direction. + +On the 23d, at ten o'clock in the morning, land was seen from the top-mast +head, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. by W. to S.W. by S. We +hauled up for it with the wind at S.E., and found it to consist of two or +three small islets, connected together by breakers like most of the low +isles in the sea, lying in a triangular form, and about six leagues in +circuit. They were clothed with wood, among which were many cocoa-nut +trees. We saw no people, or signs of inhabitants; and had reason to think +there were none. The situation of this isle, which is in the latitude of +19° 18' S., longitude 158° 54' W., is not very different from that assigned +by Mr Dalrymple to La Dezena. But as this is a point not easily determined, +I named it Hervey's Island, in honour of the Honourable Captain Hervey of +the navy, one of the lords of the Admiralty, and afterwards Earl of +Bristol. + +As the landing on this isle, if practicable, would have caused a delay +which I could ill spare at this time, we resumed our course to the west; +and on the 25th we again began to use our sea-biscuits, the fruit which had +served as a succedaneum being all consumed; but our stock of fresh pork +still continued, each man having as much every day as was needful. In our +route to the west we now and then saw men-of-war and tropic birds, and a +small sea-bird, which is seldom seen but near the shores of the isles; we, +therefore, conjectured that we had passed some land at no great distance. +As we advanced to the west, the variation of the compass gradually +increased, so that on the 29th, being in the latitude of 21° 26' S., +longitude 170° 40' W., it was 10° 45' E. + +1773 October + +At two o'clock p.m. on the 1st of October, we made the island of +Middleburg, bearing W.S.W.; at six o'clock it extended from S.W. by W. to +N.W., distant four leagues, at which time another land was seen in the +direction of N.N.W. The wind being at S.S.E., I hauled to the south, in +order to get round the south end of the island before the morning; but at +eight o'clock a small island was seen lying off it, and not knowing but +they might be connected by a reef, the extent of which we must be ignorant +of, I resolved to spend the night where we were. At day-break the next +morning, we bore up for the S.W. side of Middleburg, passing between it and +the little isle above mentioned, where we found a clear channel two miles +broad. + +After ranging the S.W. side of the greater isle, to about two-thirds of its +length, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, without seeing the +least prospect of either anchorage or landing-place, we bore away for +Amsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely turned our sails before +we observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another aspect, seeming to +offer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled the wind, and plied +in under the island. In the mean time, two canoes, each conducted by two or +three men, came boldly alongside; and some of them entered the ship without +hesitation. This mark of confidence gave me a good opinion of these +islanders, and determined me to visit them, if possible. After making a +few trips, we found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five fathoms +water, and gravel bottom, at three cables' length from the shore. The +highest land on the island bore S.E. by E.; the north point N.E. 1/2 E., +and the west S. by W. 1/2 W., and the island of Amsterdam extending from N. +by W. 1/2 W. to N.W. 1/2 W. We had scarcely got to an anchor before we were +surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who had brought with +them cloth, and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c. +Several came on board; among them was one whom, by the authority he seemed +to have over the others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him a +present of a hatchet, spike-nails, and several other articles, with which +he was highly pleased. Thus I obtained the friendship of this chief, whose +name was Tioony. + +Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony, +who conducted us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of +the ships, where landing was extremely easy, and the boats secure against +the surf. Here we found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed us on +shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick, or +any other weapon in their hands; an indubitable sign of their pacific +intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c. +to exchange for nails, that it was some time before we could get room to +land. They seemed to be more desirous to give than receive; for many who +could not get near the boats, threw into them, over the others heads, whole +bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking, or waiting for any +thing in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right and +left, and make room for us to land. He then conducted us up to his +house, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the +head of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The +situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at +anchor; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some of +the richest productions of Nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which +we were seated, and the people seated themselves in a circle round us on +the outside. Having the bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played; and +in return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which they +did with a very good grace; and having made each of them a present, this +immediately set all the women in the circle a-singing. Their songs were +musical and harmonious, and nowise harsh or disagreeable. After sitting +here some time, we were, at our own request, conducted into one of the +adjoining plantations, where the chief had another house, into which we +were introduced. Bananoes and cocoa-nuts were set before us to eat, and a +bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of _Eava_ for us +to drink. Pieces of the root were first offered us to chew; but as we +excused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed by +others. When sufficiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl; then +mixed with water, in the manner already related; and as soon as it was +properly strained for drinking, they made cups, by folding of green leaves, +which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of these +filled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it; the manner of +brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was, +however; soon emptied of its contents, of which both men and women partook. +I observed that they never filled the same cup twice; nor did two persons +drink out of the same; each had a fresh cup and fresh liquor. + +This house was situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an area +before it on which we were seated. The whole was planted round with fruit +and other trees, whose spreading branches afforded an agreeable shade, and +whose fragrance diffused a pleasing odour through the air. + +Before we had well viewed the plantation it was noon, and we returned on +board to dinner, with the chief in our company. He sat at table but eat +nothing, which, as we had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordinary. +After dinner we landed again, and were received by the crowd as before; Mr +Forster with his botanical party, and some of the officers and gentlemen, +walked into the country. Captain Furneaux and myself were conducted to +the chief's house, where fruit and some greens, which had been stewed, were +set before us to eat. As we had but just dined, it cannot be supposed we +eat much; but Oedidee, and Omai, the man on board the Adventure, did honour +to the feast. After this we signified our desire of seeing the country. +Tioony very readily assented, and conducted us through several plantations, +which were laid out with great judgment, and inclosed with very neat fences +made of reeds. They were all in very good order, and well planted with +various fruit-trees, roots, &c. The chief took some pains to let us know +the most of them belonged to himself. Near some of the houses, and in the +lanes that divided the plantations, were running about some hogs and very +large fowls, which were the only domestic animals we saw; and these they +did not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day, +offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning, which determined +me to leave this island, and to visit that of Amsterdam. + +The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country, +and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with +each other in doing what they thought would give us pleasure. The ships +were crowded with people the whole day, trafficking with those on board, in +which the greatest good order was observed; and I was sorry that the season +of the year would not admit of my making a longer stay with them. Early the +nest morning, while the ships were getting under sail, I went on shore with +Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to take leave of the chief. He met us at +the landing-place, and would have conducted us to his house, had we not +excused ourselves. We therefore were seated on the grass, where we spent +about half an hour in the midst of a vast crowd of people. After making the +chief a present, consisting of various articles, and an assortment of +garden-seeds, I gave him to understand that we were going away, at which he +seemed not at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, in +order to accompany us on board; but seeing the Resolution under sail, he +called to a canoe to put alongside, into which he and his friends went, and +returned on shore. While he remained in our boat, he continued to exchange +fish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a manner wholly to +himself; but, when on shore, I never saw him make the least exchange. + +CHAPTER II. + +_The Arrival of the Ships at Amsterdam; a Description of a Place of +Worship; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while we remained +at that Island._ + +1773 October + +As soon as I was on board, we made sail down to Amsterdam. The people of +this isle were so little afraid of us, that some met us in three canoes +about midway between the two isles. They used their utmost efforts to get +on board, but without effect, as we did not shorten sail for them, and the +rope which we gave them broke. They then attempted to board the Adventure, +and met with the same disappointment. We ran along the S.W. coast of +Amsterdam at half a mile from shore, on which the sea broke in a great +surf. We had an opportunity, by the help of our glasses, to view the face +of the island, every part of which seemed to be laid out in plantations. We +observed the natives running along the shore, displaying small white flags, +which we took for ensigns of peace, and answered them by hoisting a St +George's ensign. Three men belonging to Middleburg, who, by some means or +other, had been left on board the Adventure, now quitted her, and swam to +the shore; not knowing that we intended to stop at this isle, and having no +inclination, as may be supposed, to go away with us. + +As soon as we opened the west side of the isle, we were met by several +canoes, each conducted by three or four men. They came boldly alongside, +presented us with some _Eava_ root, and then came on board without +farther ceremony, inviting us, by all the friendly signs they could make, +to go to their island, and pointing to the place where we should anchor; at +least we so understood them. After a few boards, we anchored in Van +Diemen's Road, in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a cable's length +from the breakers, which line the coast. We carried out the coasting-anchor +and cable to seaward, to keep the ship from tailing on the rocks, in case +of a shift of wind or a calm. This last anchor lay in forty-seven fathoms +water; so steep was the bank on which we anchored. By this time we were +crowded with people; some came off in canoes, and others swam; but, like +those of the other isle, brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, &c., +for which the seamen only bartered away their clothes. As it was probable +they would soon feel the effects of this kind of traffic, with a view to +put a stop to it, and to obtain the necessary refreshments, I gave orders +that no sort of curiosities should be purchased by any person whatever. + +The good effect of this order was found in the morning. For, when the +natives saw we would purchase nothing but eatables, they brought off +bananoes and cocoa-nuts in abundance, some fowls and pigs; all of which +they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth: even old rags of any +sort, was enough for a pig, or a fowl. + +Matters being thus established, and proper persons appointed to trade under +the direction of the officers, to prevent disputes, after breakfast I +landed, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of the +officers; having along with us a chief, or person of some note, whose name +was Attago, who had attached himself to me, from the first moment of his +coming on board, which was before we anchored. I know not how he came to +discover that I was the commander; but, certain it is, he was not long on +deck before he singled me out from all the gentlemen, making me a present +of some cloth, and other things he had about him; and as a greater +testimony of friendship, we now exchanged names; a custom which is +practised at Otaheite, and the Society Isles. We were lucky, or rather we +may thank the natives, for having anchored before a narrow creek in the +rocks which line the shore. To this creek we were conducted by my friend +Attago; and there we landed dry on the beach, and within the breakers, in +the face of a vast crowd of people, who received us in the same friendly +manner that those of Middleburg had done. + +As soon as we were landed; all the gentlemen set out into the country, +accompanied by some of the natives. But the most of them remained with +Captain Furneaux and me, who amused ourselves some time distributing +presents amongst them; especially to such as Attago pointed out, which were +not many, but who I afterwards found, were of superior rank to himself. At +this time, however, he seemed to be the principal person, and to be obeyed +as such. After we had spent some time on the beach, as we complained of the +heat, Attago immediately conducted and seated us under the shade of a tree, +ordering the people to form a circle round us. This they did, and never +once attempted to push themselves upon us like the Otaheiteans. + +After sitting here some time, and distributing some presents to those about +us, we signified our desire to see the country. The chief immediately took +the hint, and conducted us along a lane that led to an open green, on the +one side of which was a house of worship built on a mount that had been +raised by the hand of man, about sixteen or eighteen feet above the common +level. It had an oblong figure, and was inclosed by a wall or parapet of +stone, about three feet in height. From this wall the mount rose with a +gentle slope, and was covered with a green turf. On the top of it stood the +house, which had the same figure as the mount, about twenty feet in length, +and fourteen or sixteen broad. As soon as we came before the place, every +one seated himself on the green, about fifty or sixty yards from the front +of the house. Presently came three elderly men, who seated themselves +between us and it, and began a speech, which I understood to be a prayer, +it being wholly directed to the house. This lasted about ten minutes; and +then the priests, for such I took them to be, came and sat down along with +us, when we made them presents of such things as were about us. Having then +made signs to them that we wanted to view the premises, my friend Attago +immediately got up, and going with us, without showing the least +backwardness, gave us full liberty to examine every part of it. + +In the front were two stone steps leading to the top of the wall; from this +the ascent to the house was easy, round which was a fine gravel walk. The +house was built, in all respects, like to their common dwelling-houses; +that is, with posts and rafters, and covered with palm thatch. The eaves +came down within about three feet of the ground, which space was filled up +with strong matting made of palm leaves, as a wall. The floor of the house +was laid with fine gravel; except, in the middle, where there was an oblong +square of blue pebbles, raised about six inches higher than the floor. At +one corner of the house stood an image rudely carved in wood, and on one +side lay another; each about two feet in length. I, who had no intention to +offend either them or their gods, did not so much as touch them, but asked +Attago, as well as I could, if they were _Eatuas_, or gods. Whether he +understood me or no, I cannot say; but he immediately turned them over and +over, in as rough a manner as he would have done any other log of wood, +which convinced me that they were not there as representatives of the +Divinity. I was curious to know if the dead were interred there, and asked +Attago several questions relative thereto; but I was not sure that he +understood me, at least I did not understand the answers he made well +enough to satisfy my enquiries. For the reader must know, that at our first +coming among these people, we hardly could understand a word they said. +Even my Otaheitean youth, and the man on board the Adventure, were equally +at a loss; but more of this by and by. Before we quitted the house we +thought it necessary to make an offering at the altar. Accordingly we laid +down upon the blue pebbles, some medals, nails, and several other things, +which we had no sooner done than my friend Attago took them up, and put +them in his pocket. The stones with which the walls were made that inclosed +this mount, were some of them nine or ten feet by four, and about six +inches thick. It is difficult to conceive how they can cut such stones out +of the coral rocks. + +This mount stood in a kind of grove open only on the side which fronted the +high road, and the green on which the people were seated. At this green or +open place, was a junction of five roads, two or three of which appeared to +be very public ones. The groves were composed of several sorts of trees. +Among others was the _Etoa_ tree, as it is called at Otaheite, of +which are made clubs, &c. and a kind of low palm, which is very common in +the northern parts of New Holland. + +After we had done examining this place of worship, which in their language +is called _A-fia-tou-ca_, we desired to return; but, instead of +conducting us to the water-side as we expected, they struck into a road +leading into the country. This road, which was about sixteen feet broad, +and as level as a bowling-green, seemed to be a very public one; there +being many other roads from different parts, leading into it, all inclosed +on each side, with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorching +sun by fruit trees, I thought I was transported into the most fertile +plains in Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground; the roads occupied +no more space than was absolutely necessary; the fences did not take up +above four inches each; and even this was not wholly lost, for in many were +planted some useful trees or plants. It was everywhere the same; change of +place altered not the scene. Nature, assisted by a little art, no where +appears in more splendour than at this isle. In these delightful walks we +met numbers of people; some travelling down to the ships with their burdens +of fruit; others returning back empty. They all gave us the road, by +turning either to the right or left, and sitting down or standing, with +their backs to the fences, till we had passed. + +At several of the cross-roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads, were +generally _Afiatoucas_, such as already described; with this +difference, the mounts were pallisadoed round, instead of a stone wall. At +length, after walking several miles, we came to one larger than common; +near to which was a large house belonging to an old chief, in our company. +At this house we were desired to stop, which we accordingly did, and were +treated with fruit, &c. + +We were no sooner seated in the house, than the eldest of the priests began +a speech or prayer, which was first directed to the _Afiatouca_, and +then to me, and alternately. When he addressed me, he paused at every +sentence, till I gave a nod of approbation. I, however, did not understand +one single word he said. At times, the old gentleman seemed to be at a loss +what to say, or perhaps his memory failed him; for, every now and then, he +was prompted by one of the other priests who sat by him. Both during this +prayer and the former one, the people were silent, but not attentive. At +this last place we made but a short stay. Our guides conducted us down to +our boat, and we returned with Attago to our ship to dinner. We had no +sooner got on board, than an old gentleman came alongside, who, I +understood from Attago, was some king or great man. He was, accordingly, +ushered on board; when I presented him with such things as he most valued +(being the only method to make him my friend,) and seated him at table to +dinner. We now saw that he was a man of consequence; for Attago would not +sit down and eat before him, but got to the other end of the table; and, as +the old chief was almost blind, he sat there, and eat with his back towards +him. After the old man had eaten a bit of fish, and drank two glasses of +wine, he returned ashore. As soon as Attago had seen him out of the ship, +he came and took his place at table, finished his dinner, and drank two +glasses of wine. When dinner was over, we all went ashore, where we found +the old chief, who presented me with a hog; and he and some others took a +walk with us into the country. + +Before we set out, I happened to go down with Attago to the landing-place, +and there found Mr Wales in a laughable, though distressed situation. The +boats which brought us on shore, not being able to get near the landing- +place for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off his shoes and +stockings to walk through, and as soon as he got on dry land, he put them +down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched +away by a person behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It was +impossible for him to follow the man barefooted over the sharp coral rocks, +which compose the shore, without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat +was put back to the ship, his companions had each made his way through the +crowd, and he left in this condition alone. Attago soon found out the +thief, recovered his shoes and stockings, and set him at liberty. Our route +into the country, was by the first-mentioned _Afiatouca_, before which +we again seated ourselves, but had no prayers, although the old priest was +with us. Our stay here was but short. The old chief, probably thinking that +we might want water on board, conducted us to a plantation hard by, and +shewed us a pool of fresh water, though we had not made the least enquiry +after any. I believe this to be the same that Tasman calls the _washing- +place_ for the king and his nobles. + +From hence we were conducted down to the shore of Maria Bay, or north-east +side of the isle; where, in a boat-house, was shewn to us a fine large +double canoe not yet launched. The old chief did not fail to make us +sensible it belonged to himself. Night now approaching, we took leave of +him, and returned on board, being conducted by Attago down to the water- +side. + +Mr Forster and his party spent the day in the country botanizing; and +several of the officers were out shooting. All of them were very civilly +treated by the natives. We had also a brisk trade for bananoes, cocoa-nuts, +yams, pigs, and fowls; all of which were procured for nails, and pieces of +cloth. A boat from each ship was employed in trading ashore, and bringing +off their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was generally in a +short time. By this method we got cheaper, and with less trouble, a good +quantity of fruit, as well as other refreshments, from people who had no +canoes to carry them off to the ships. + +Pretty early in the morning on the 5th, my friend brought me a hog and some +fruit; for which I gave him a hatchet, a sheet, and some red cloth. The +pinnace was sent ashore to trade as usual, but soon returned. The officer +informed me that the natives were for taking every thing out of the boat, +and, in other respects, were very troublesome. The day before, they stole +the grapling at the time the boat was riding by it, and carried it off +undiscovered. I now judged it necessary to have a guard on shore, to +protect the boats and people whose business required their being there; and +accordingly sent the marines, under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe. +Soon after I went myself, with my friend Attago, Captain Furneaux, and +several of the gentlemen. At landing, we found the chief, who presented me +with a pig. After this, Captain Furneaux and I took a walk into the +country, with Mr Hodges, to make drawings of such places and things as were +most interesting. When this was done, we returned on board to dinner, with +my friend and two other chiefs; one of which sent a hog on board the +Adventure for Captain Furneaux, some hours before, without stipulating for +any return. The only instance of this kind. My friend took care to put me +in mind of the pig the old king gave me in the morning; for which I now +gave a chequed shirt and a piece of red cloth. I had tied them up for him +to carry ashore; but with this he was not satisfied. He wanted to have them +put on him, which was no sooner done, than he went on deck, and shewed +himself to all his countrymen. He had done the same thing in the morning +with the sheet I gave him. In the evening we all went on shore again, where +we found the old king, who took to himself every thing my friend and the +others had got. + +The different trading parties were so successful to-day as to procure for +both ships a tolerably good supply of refreshments. In consequence of +which, I, the next morning, gave every one leave to purchase what +curiosities and other things they pleased. After this, it was astonishing +to see with what eagerness every one caught at every thing he saw. It even +went so far as to become the ridicule of the natives, who offered pieces of +sticks and stones to exchange. One waggish boy took a piece of human +excrement on the end of a stick, and held it out to every one he met with. + +This day, a man got into the master's cabin, through the outside scuttle, +and took out some books and other things. He was discovered just as he was +getting out into his canoe, and pursued by one of our boats, which obliged +him to quit the canoe and take to the water. The people in the boat made +several attempts to lay hold of him; but he as often dived under the boat, +and at last having unshipped the rudder, which rendered her ungovernable, +by this means he got clear off. Some other very daring thefts were +committed at the landing-place. One fellow took a seaman's jacket out of +the boat, and carried it off, in spite of all that our people in her could +do. Till he was both pursued and fired at by them, he would not part with +it; nor would he have done it then, had not his landing been intercepted by +some of us who were on shore. The rest of the natives, who were very +numerous, took very little notice of the whole transaction; nor were they +the least alarmed when the man was fired at. + +My friend Attago having visited me again next morning, as usual, brought +with him a hog, and assisted me in purchasing several more. Afterwards we +went ashore; visited the old king, with whom we staid till noon, then +returned on board to dinner, with Attago, who never once left me. Intending +to sail next morning, I made up a present for the old king, and carried it +on shore in the evening. As soon as I landed, I was told by the officers +who were on shore, that a far greater man than any we had yet seen was come +to pay us a visit. Mr Pickersgill informed me that he had seen him in the +country, and found that he was a man of some consequence, by the +extraordinary respect paid him by the people. Some, when they approached +him, fell on their faces, and put their head between their feet; and no one +durst pass him without permission. Mr Pickersgill, and another of the +gentlemen, took hold of his arms, and conducted him down to the landing- +place, where I found him seated with so much sullen and stupid gravity, +that notwithstanding what had been told me, I really took him for an idiot, +whom the people, from some superstitious notions, were ready to worship. I +saluted and spoke to him; but he neither answered, nor took the least +notice of me; nor did he alter a single feature in his countenance. This +confirmed me in my opinion, and I was just going to leave him, when one of +the natives, an intelligent youth, undertook to undeceive me; which he did +in such a manner as left me no room to doubt that he was the king, or +principal man on the island. Accordingly I made him the present I intended +for the old chief, which consisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of red +cloth, a looking-glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received these +things, or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid down by him, +without losing a bit of his gravity, speaking one word, or turning his head +either to the right or left; sitting the whole time like a statue; in which +situation I left him to return on board, and he soon after retired. I had +not been long on board before word was brought me, that a quantity of +provisions had come from this chief. A boat was sent to bring it from the +shore; and it consisted of about twenty baskets of roasted bananoes, sour +bread, and yams, and a roasted pig of about twenty pounds weight. Mr +Edgcumbe and his party were just re-embarking, when these were brought to +the water-side, and the bearers said it was a present from the +_Areeke_, that is, the king of the island, to the _Areeke_ of the +ship. After this I was no longer to doubt the dignity of this sullen chief. + +Early in the morning of the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, I went +ashore with Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, in order to make some return +to the king, for his last night's present. We no sooner landed than we +found Attago, of whom we enquired for the king, whose name was Kohaghee- +too-Fallangou. He accordingly undertook to conduct us to him; but, whether +he mistook the man we wanted, or was ignorant where he was, I know not. +Certain it is, that he took us a wrong road, in which he had not gone far +before he stopped, and after some little conversation between him and +another man, we returned back, and presently after the king appeared, with +very few attendants. As soon as Attago saw him coming, he sat down under a +tree, and desired us to do the same. The king seated himself on a rising +ground, about twelve or fifteen yards from us: Here we sat facing one +another for some minutes. I waited for Attago to shew us the way; but +seeing he did not rise, Captain Furneaux and I got up, went and saluted the +king, and sat down by him. We then presented him with a white shirt, (which +we put on his back) a few yards of red cloth, a brass kettle, a saw, two +large spikes, three looking-glasses, a dozen of medals, and some strings of +beads. All this time he sat with the same sullen stupid gravity as the day +before; he even did not seem to see or know what we were about; his arms +appeared immoveable at his sides; he did not so much as raise them when we +put on the shirt. I told him, both by words and signs, that we were going +to leave his island; he scarcely made the least answer to this, or any +other thing we either said or did. We, therefore, got up and took leave; +but I yet remained near him, to observe his actions. Soon after, he entered +into conversation with Attago and an old woman, whom we took to be his +mother. I did not understand any part of the conversation; it however made +him laugh, in spite of his assumed gravity. I say assumed, because it +exceeded every thing of the kind I ever saw; and therefore think it could +not be his real disposition, unless he was an idiot indeed, as these +islanders, like all the others we had lately visited, have a great deal of +levity, and he was in the prime of life. At last he rose up, and retired +with his mother and two or three more. + +Attago conducted us to another circle, where were seated the aged chief and +several respectable old persons of both sexes; among whom was the priest, +who was generally in company with this chief. We observed, that this +reverend father could walk very well in a morning, but in the evening was +obliged to be led home by two people. By this we concluded, that the juice +of the pepper-root had the same effect upon him, that wine and other strong +liquors have on Europeans who drink a large portion of them. It is very +certain, that these old people seldom sat down without preparing a bowl of +this liquor, which is done in the same manner as at Ulietea. We however +must do them the justice to believe, that it was meant to treat us; +nevertheless, the greatest part, if not the whole, generally fell to their +share. I was not well prepared to take leave of this chief, having +exhausted almost all our store on the other. However, after rummaging our +pockets, and treasury-bag, which was always carried with me wherever I +went, we made up a tolerable present, both for him and his friends. This +old chief had an air of dignity about him that commanded respect, which the +other had not. He was grave, but not sullen; would crack a joke, talk on +indifferent subjects, and endeavour to understand us and be understood +himself. During this visit, the old priest repeated a short prayer or +speech, the purport of which we did not understand. Indeed he would +frequently, at other times, break out in prayer; but I never saw any +attention paid to him by any one present. After a stay of near two +hours, we took leave, and returned on board, with Attago and two or three +more friends, who staid and breakfasted with us; after which they were +dismissed, loaded with presents. + +Attago was very importunate with me to return again to this isle, and to +bring with me cloth, axes, nails, &c. &c. telling me that I should have +hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, in abundance. He particularly desired me, +more than once, to bring him such a suit of clothes as I had on, which was +my uniform. This good-natured islander was very serviceable to me, on many +occasions, during our short stay. He constantly came on board every morning +soon after it was light, and never quitted us till the evening. He was +always ready, either on board or on shore, to do me all the service in his +power: His fidelity was rewarded at a small expence, and I found my account +in having such a friend. + +In heaving in the coasting cable, it parted in the middle of its length, +being chafed by the rocks. By this accident we lost the other half, +together with the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water, without any +buoy to it. The best bower-cable suffered also by the rocks; by which a +judgment may be formed of this anchorage. At ten o'clock we got under sail; +but as our decks were much encumbered with fruit, &c. we kept plying under +the land till they were cleared. The supplies we got at this isle, were +about one hundred and fifty pigs, twice that number of fowls, as many +bananoes and cocoa-nuts as we could find room for, with a few yams; and had +our stay been longer, we no doubt might have got a great deal more. This in +some degree shews the fertility of the island, of which, together with the +neighbouring one of Middleburg, I shall now give a more particular account. + +CHAPTER III. + +_A Description of the Islands and their Produce; with the Cultivation, +Houses, Canoes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons, Customs, Government, +Religion, and Language of the Inhabitants._ + +1773 October + +These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman, in January, 1642-3, +and by him called Amsterdam and Middleburg. But the former is called by the +natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea-oo-wee. They are situated between +the latitude of 21° 29' and 21° 3' south, and between the longitude of 174° +40' and 175° 15' west, deduced from observations made on the spot. + +Middleburg, or Eaoowee, which is the southernmost, is about ten leagues in +circuit, and of a height sufficient to be seen twelve leagues. The skirts +of this isle are mostly taken up in the plantations; the S.W. and N.W. +sides especially. The interior parts are but little cultivated, though very +fit for cultivation. However, the want of it added greatly to the beauty of +the isle; for here are, agreeably dispersed, groves of cocoa-nut and other +trees, lawns covered with thick grass, here and there plantations, and +paths leading to every part of the island, in such beautiful disorder, as +greatly enlivens the prospect. + +The anchorage, which I named English Road, being the first who anchored +there, is on the N.W. side, in latitude 21° 20' 30" south. The bank is a +coarse sand; it extends two miles from the land, and on it there is from +twenty to forty fathoms water. The small creek before it affords convenient +landing for boats at all times of the tide; which here, as well as at the +other islands, rises about four or five feet, and is high water on the full +and change days about seven o'clock. The island of Tongatabu is shaped +something like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof are seven +leagues each, and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the direction of +E.S.E. and W.N.W.; is nearly all of an equal height, rather low, not +exceeding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the sea. This island, and +also that of Eaoowee, is guarded from the sea by a reef of coral rocks, +extending out from the shore one hundred fathoms more or less. On this reef +the force of the sea is spent before it reaches the land or shore. Indeed, +this is in some measure the situation of all the tropical isles in this sea +that I have seen; and thus nature has effectually secured them from the +encroachments of the sea, though many of them are mere points when compared +to this vast ocean. Van Diemen's Road, where we anchored, is under the +northwest part of the island, between the most northern and western points. +There lies a reef of rocks without it, bearing N.W. by W., over which the +sea breaks continually. The bank does not extend more than three cables +length from the shore; without that, is an unfathomable depth. The loss of +an anchor, and the damage our cables sustained, are sufficient proofs that +the bottom is none of the best. + +On the east side of the north point of the island, (as Mr Gilbert, whom I +sent to survey the parts, informed me) is a very snug harbour, of one mile +or more in extent, wherein is seven, eight, and ten fathoms water, with a +clean sandy bottom. The channel, by which he went in and out, lies close to +the point, and has only three fathoms water; but he believes, that farther +to the N.E. is a channel with a much greater depth, which he had not time +to examine. Indeed, it would have taken up far more time than I could spare +to have surveyed these parts minutely; as there lies a number of small +islets and reefs of rocks along the N.E. side of the island, which seemed +to extend to the N.E. farther than the eye could reach. The island of +Amsterdam, or Tongatabu, is wholly laid out in plantations, in which are +planted some of the richest productions of nature, such as bread-fruit, +cocoa-nut trees, plantains, bananoes, shaddocks, yams, and some other +roots, sugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them +_Fighegea_, and at Otaheite _Ahuya_: In short, here are most of +the articles which the Society Islands produce, besides some which they +have not. Mr Forster tells me, that he not only found the same plants here +that are at Otaheite and the neighbouring isles, but several others which +are not to be met with there. And I probably have added to their stock of +vegetables, by leaving with them an assortment of garden seeds, pulse, &c. +Bread-fruit here, as well as at all the other isles, was not in season; nor +was this the time for roots and shaddocks. We got the latter only at +Middleburg. + +The produce and cultivation of this isle is the same as at Amsterdam; with +this difference, that a part only of the former is cultivated, whereas the +whole of the latter is. The lanes or roads necessary for travelling, are +laid out in so judicious a manner, as to open a free and easy communication +from one part of the island to the other. Here are no towns or villages; +most of the houses are built in the plantations, with no other order than +what conveniency requires; they are neatly constructed, but do not exceed +those in the other isles. The materials of which they are built are the +same; and some little variation in the disposition of the framing, is all +the difference in their construction. The floor is a little raised, and +covered with thick strong mats; the same sort of matting serves to inclose +them on the windward side, the other being open. They have little areas +before the most of them, which are generally planted round with trees, or +shrubs of ornament, whose fragrancy perfumes the very air in which they +breathe. Their household furniture consists of a few wooden platters, +cocoa-nut shells, and some neat wooden pillows shaped like four-footed +stools or forms. Their common clothing, with the addition of a mat, serves +them for bedding. We got from them two or three earthen vessels, which were +all we saw among them. One was in the shape of a bomb-shell, with two boles +in it, opposite each other; the others were like pipkins, containing about +five or six pints, and had been in use on the fire. I am of opinion they +are the manufacture of some other isle; for, if they were of their own, we +ought to have seen more of them. Nor am I to suppose they came from +Tasman's ships; the time is too long for brittle vessels like these to be +preserved. + +We saw no other domestic animals amongst them but hogs and fowls. The +former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea; but the +latter are far superior, being as large as any we have in Europe, and their +flesh equally good, if not better. We saw no dogs, and believe they have +none, as they were exceedingly desirous of those we had on board. My friend +Attago was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one from New Zealand, +the other from Ulietea. The name of a dog with them is _kooree_ or +_gooree_, the same as at New Zealand, which shews that they are not +wholly strangers to them. We saw no rats in these isles, nor any other wild +quadrupeds, except small lizards. The land birds are pigeons, turtle-doves, +parrots, parroquets, owls, bald couts with a blue plumage, a variety of +small birds, and large bats in abundance. The produce of the sea we know +but little of; it is reasonable to suppose, that the same sorts of fish are +found here as at the other isles. Their fishing instruments are the +same; that is, hooks made of mother-of-pearl, gigs with two, three, or more +prongs, and nets made of a very fine thread, with the meshes wrought +exactly like ours. But nothing can be a more demonstrative evidence of +their ingenuity than the construction and make of their canoes, which, in +point of neatness and workmanship, exceed every thing of this kind we saw +in this sea. They are built of several pieces sewed together with bandage, +in so neat a manner, that on the outside it is difficult to see the joints. +All the fastenings are on the inside, and pass through kants or ridges, +which are wrought on the edges and ends of the several boards which compose +the vessel, for that purpose. They are of two kinds, viz. double and +single. The single ones are from twenty to thirty feet long, and about +twenty or twenty-two inches broad in the middle; the stern terminates in a +point, and the head something like the point of a wedge. At each end is a +kind of deck, for about one-third part of the whole length, and open in the +middle. In some the middle of the deck is decorated with a row of white +shells, stuck on little pegs wrought out of the same piece which composes +it. These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are sometimes navigated +with sails, but more generally with paddles, the blades of which are short, +and broadest in the middle. The two vessels which compose the double canoe +are each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the +middle, and each end terminates nearly in a point; so that the body or hull +differs a little in construction from the single canoe, but is put together +exactly in the same manner; these having a rising in the middle round the +open part, in the form of a long trough, which is made of boards, closely +fitted together, and well secured to the body of the vessel. Two such +vessels are fastened to, and parallel to each other, about six or seven +feet asunder, by strong cross beams, secured by bandages to the upper part +of the risings above mentioned. Over these beams, and others which are +supported by stanchions fixed on the bodies of the canoes, is laid a +boarded platform. All the parts which compose the double canoe, are made as +strong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be immerged +in water to the very platform, without being in danger of filling. Nor is +it possible, under any circumstance whatever, for them to sink, so long as +they hold together. Thus they are not only vessels of burden, but fit for +distant navigation. They are rigged with one mast, which steps upon the +platform, and can easily be raised or taken down; and are sailed with a +latteen-sail, or triangular one, extended by a long yard, which is a little +bent or crooked. The sail is made of mats; the rope they make use of is +exactly like ours, and some of it is four or five inch. On the platform is +built a little shed or hut, which screens the crew from the sun and +weather, and serves for other purposes. They also carry a moveable fire- +hearth, which is a square, but shallow trough of wood, filled with stones. +The way into the hold of the canoe is from off the platform, down a sort of +uncovered hatchway, in which they stand to bale out the water. I think +these vessels are navigated either end foremost, and that, in changing +tacks, they have only occasion to shift or jib round the sail; but of this +I was not certain, as I had not then seen any under sail, or with the mast +and sail an end, but what were a considerable distance from us. + +Their working tools are made of stone, bone, shells, &c. as at the other +islands. When we view the work which is performed with these tools, we are +struck with admiration at the ingenuity and patience of the workman. Their +knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach them +to prefer nails to beads, and such trifles; some, but very few, would +exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, +and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge-tool we could give +them; consequently they got but few axes from us but what were given as +presents. But if we include the nails which were given by the officers and +crews of both ships for curiosities, &c. with those given for refreshments, +they cannot have got less than five hundred weight, great and small. The +only piece of iron we saw among them was a small broad awl, which had been +made of a nail. + +Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans; and their colour is +that of a lightish copper, and more uniformly so than amongst the +inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles. Some of our gentlemen were +of opinion these were a much handsomer race; others maintained a contrary +opinion, of which number I was one. Be this as it may, they have a good +shape, and regular features, and are active, brisk, and lively. The women, +in particular, are the merriest creatures I ever met with, and will keep +chattering by one's side, without the least invitation, or considering +whether they are understood, provided one does but seem pleased with them. +In general they appeared to be modest; although there was no want of those +of a different stamp; and as we had yet some venereal complaints on board, +I took all possible care to prevent the disorder being communicated to +them. On most occasions they shewed a strong propensity to pilfering; in +which they were full as expert as the Otaheitans. + +Their hair in general is black, but more especially that of the women. +Different colours were found among the men, sometimes on the same head, +caused by something they put upon it, which stains it white, red, and blue. +Both sexes wear it short; I saw but two exceptions to this custom, and the +most of them combed it upwards. Many of the boys had it cut very close, +except a single lock on the top of the head, and a small quantity on each +side. The men cut or shave their beards quite close, which operation is +performed with two shells. They have fine eyes, and in general good teeth, +even to an advanced age. The custom of _tattowing_ or puncturing the +skin prevails. The men are _tattowed_ from the middle of the thigh to +above the hips. The women have it only on their arms and fingers; and there +but very slightly. + +The dress of both sexes consists of a piece of cloth or matting wrapped +round the waist, and hanging down below the knees. From the waist, upwards, +they are generally naked; and it seemed to be a custom to anoint these +parts every morning. My friend Attago never failed to do it; but whether +out of respect to his friend, or from custom, I will not pretend to say; +though I rather think from the latter, as he was not singular in the +practice. + +Their ornaments are amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones, shells, and +beads of mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell, &c. which are worn by both sexes. +The women also wear on their fingers neat rings made of tortoise-shell, and +pieces in their ears about the size of a small quill; but ear ornaments are +not commonly worn, though all have their ears pierced. They have also a +curious apron made of the outside fibres of the cocoa-nut shell, and +composed of a number of small pieces sewed together in such a manner as to +form stars, half-moons, little squares, &c. It is studded with beads of +shells, and covered with red feathers, so as to have a pleasing effect. +They make the same kind of cloth, and of the same materials, as at +Otaheite; though they have not such a variety, nor do they make any so +fine; but, as they have a method of glazing it, it is more durable, and +will resist rain for some time, which Otaheite cloth will not. Their +colours are black, brown, purple, yellow, and red; all made from +vegetables. They make various sorts of matting; some of a very fine +texture, which is generally used for clothing; and the thick and stronger +sort serves to sleep on, and to make sails for their canoes, &c. Among +other useful utensils, they have various sorts of baskets; some are made of +the same materials as their mats; and others of the twisted fibres of +cocoa-nuts. These are not only durable but beautiful; being generally +composed of different colours, and studded with beads made of shells or +bones. They have many little nick-nacks amongst them; which shews that they +neither want taste to design, nor skill to execute, whatever they take in +hand. + +How these people amuse themselves in their leisure hours, I cannot say, as +we are but little acquainted with their diversions. The women frequently +entertained us with songs, in a manner which was agreeable enough. They +accompany the music by snapping their fingers, so as to keep time to it. +Not only their voices, but their music was very harmonious, and they have a +considerable compass in their notes. I saw but two musical instruments +amongst them. One was a large flute made of a piece of bamboo, which they +fill with their noses as at Otaheite; but these have four holes or stops, +whereas those of Otaheite have only two. The other was composed of ten or +eleven small reeds of unequal lengths, bound together side by side, as the +Doric pipe of the ancients is said to have been; and the open ends of the +reeds into which they blow with their mouths, are of equal height, or in a +line. They have also a drum, which, without any impropriety, may be +compared to an hollow log of wood. The one I saw was five feet six inches +long, and thirty inches in girt, and had a slit in it, from the one end to +the other, about three inches wide, by means of which it had been hollowed +out. They beat on the side of this log with two drum-sticks, and produce an +hollow sound, not quite so musical as that of an empty cask. + +The common method of saluting one another is by touching or meeting noses, +as is done in New Zealand, and their sign of peace to strangers, is the +displaying a white flag or flags; at least such were displayed to us, when +we first drew near the shore. But the people who came first on board +brought with them some of the pepper plant, and sent it before them into +the ship; a stronger sign of friendship than which one could not wish for. +From their unsuspicious manner of coming on board, and of receiving us at +first on shore, I am of opinion, they are seldom disturbed by either +foreign or domestic troubles. They are, however, not unprovided with very +formidable weapons; such as clubs and spears, made of hard wood, also bows +and arrows. The clubs are from three to five feet in length, and of various +shapes. Their bows and arrows are but indifferent; the former being very +slight, and the latter only made of a slender reed, pointed with hard wood. +Some of their spears have many barbs, and must be very dangerous weapons +where they take effect. On the inside of the bow is a groove, in which is +put the arrow; from which it would seem that they use but one. + +They have a singular custom of putting every thing you give them to their +heads, by way of thanks, as we conjectured. This manner of paying a +compliment, is taught them from their very infancy; for when we gave things +to little children, the mother lifted up the child's hand to its head. They +also used this custom in their exchanges with us; whatever we gave them for +their goods, was always applied to the head, just as if it had been given +them for nothing. Sometimes they would look at our goods, and if not +approved, return them back; but whenever they applied them to the head, the +bargain was infallibly struck. When I had made a present to the chief of +any thing curious, I frequently saw it handed from one to another; and +every one, into whose hands it came, put it to the head. Very often the +women would take hold of my hand, kiss it, and lift it to their heads. From +all this it should seem, that this custom, which they call +_fagafatie_, has various significations according as it is applied; +all, however, complimentary. + +It must be observed, that the sullen chief or king did not pay me any of +these compliments for the presents I made him. + +A still more singular custom prevails in these isles: We observed that the +greater part of the people, both men and women, had lost one, or both their +little fingers. We endeavoured, but in vain, to find out the reason of +this mutilation; for no one would take any pains to inform us. It was +neither peculiar to rank, age, or sex; nor is it done at any certain age, +as I saw those of all ages on whom the amputation had been just made; and, +except some young children, we found few who had both hands perfect. As it +was more common among the aged than the young, some of us were of opinion +that it was occasioned by the death of their parents, or some other near +relation. But Mr Wales one day met with a man, whose hands were both +perfect, of such an advanced age, that it was hardly possible his parents +could be living. They also burn or make incisions in their cheeks, near the +cheek-bone. The reason of this was equally unknown to us. In some, the +wounds were quite fresh; in others, they could only be known by the scars, +or colour of the skin. I saw neither sick nor lame amongst them; all +appeared healthy, strong, and vigorous; a proof of the goodness of the +climate in which they live. + +I have frequently mentioned a king, which implies the government being in a +single person, without knowing for certain whether it is so or no. Such an +one was however pointed out to us; and we had no reason to doubt it. From +this, and other circumstances, I am of opinion that the government is much +like that of Otaheite: That is, in a king or great chief, who is here +called Areeke, with other chiefs under him, who are lords of certain +districts, and perhaps sole proprietors, to whom the people seem to pay +great obedience. I also observed a third rank, who had not a little +authority over the common people; my friend Attago was one of these. I am +of opinion that all the land on. _Tongatabu_ is private property, and +that there are here, as at Otaheite, a set of people, who are servants or +slaves, and have no property in land. It is unreasonable to suppose every +thing in common in a country so highly cultivated as this. Interest being +the greatest spring which animates the hand of industry, few would toil in +cultivating and planting the land, if they did not expect to reap the fruit +of their labour: Were it otherwise, the industrious man would be in a worse +state than the idle sluggard. I frequently saw parties of six, eight, or +ten people, bring down to the landing place fruit and other things to +dispose of, where one person, a man or woman, superintended the sale of the +whole; no exchanges were made but with his or her consent; and whatever we +gave in exchange was always given them, which I think plainly shewed them +to be the owners of the goods, and the others no more than servants. Though +benevolent nature has been very bountiful to these isles, it cannot be said +that the inhabitants are wholly exempt from the curse of our forefathers: +Part of their bread must be earned by the sweat of their brows. The high +state of cultivation their lands are in, must have cost them immense +labour. This is now amply rewarded by the great produce, of which every one +seems to partake. No one wants the common necessaries of life; joy and +contentment are painted in every face. Indeed, it can hardly be otherwise; +an easy freedom prevails among all ranks of people; they feel no wants +which they do not enjoy the means of gratifying; and they live in a clime +where the painful extremes of heat and cold are equally unknown. If nature +has been wanting in any thing, it is in the article of fresh water, which +as it is shut up in the bowels of the earth, they are obliged to dig for. A +running stream was not seen, and but one well, at Amsterdam. At Middleburg, +we saw no water but what the natives had in vessels; but as it was sweet +and cool, I had no doubt of its being taken up upon the island; and +probably not far from the spot where I saw it. + +So little do we know of their religion, that I hardly dare mention it. The +buildings called _Afiatoucas_, before mentioned, are undoubtedly set +apart for this purpose. Some of our gentlemen were of opinion, that they +were merely burying-places. I can only say, from my own knowledge, that +they are places to which particular persons directed set speeches, which I +understood to be prayers, as hath been already related. Joining my opinion +with that of others, I was inclined to think that they are set apart to be +both temples and burying-places, as at Otaheite, or even in Europe. But I +have no idea of the images being idols; not only from what I saw myself, +but from Mr Wales's informing me that they set one of them up, for him and +others to shoot at. + +One circumstance shewed that these _Afiatoucas_ were frequently +resorted to, for one purpose or other--the areas, or open places, before +them, being covered with a green sod, the grass on which was very short. +This did not appear to have been cut, or reduced by the hand of man, but to +have been prevented in its growth, by being often trod, or sat upon. + +It cannot be supposed that we could know much, either of their civil or +religious policy, in so short a time as four or five days, especially as we +understood but little of their language: Even the two islanders we had on +board could not at first understand them, and yet as we became the more +acquainted with them, we found their language was nearly the same spoken at +Otaheite and the Society Isles. The difference not being greater than what +we find betwixt the most northern and western parts of England, as will +more fully appear by the vocabulary. + +CHAPTER IV. + +_Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an Account of an +Interview with the Inhabitants, and the final Separation of the two +Ships._ + +1773 October + +About the time we were in a condition to make sail, a canoe, conducted by +four men, came along-side, with one of those drums already mentioned, on +which one man kept continually beating; thinking, no doubt, the music would +charm us. I gave them a piece of cloth and a nail, for the drum; and took +an opportunity to send to my friend Attago some wheat, pease, and beans, +which I had forgot to give him when he had the other seeds. As soon as this +canoe was gone, we made sail to the southward, having a gentle gale at S.E. +by E.; it being my intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound +in New Zealand, there to take in wood and water, and then to go on farther +discoveries to the south and east. + +In the afternoon on the 8th, we made the island of Pilstart, bearing S.W. +by W. 1/2 W., distant seven or eight leagues. This island, which was also +discovered by Tasman, is situated in the latitude of 22° 26' south, +longitude 175° 59' west, and lies in the direction of S. 52° west, distant +thirty-two leagues from the south end of Middleburg. It is more conspicuous +in height than circuit; having in it two considerable hills, seemingly +disjoined from each other by a low valley. After a few hours calm the wind +came to S.W.; with which we stretched to the S.E.; but on the 10th, it +veered round by the south to the S.E. and E.S.E. and then we resumed our +course to the S.S.W. + +At five o'clock in the morning of the 21st, we made the land of New +Zealand, extending from N.W. by N. to W.S.W.; at noon, Table Cape bore +west, distant eight or ten leagues. I was very desirous of having some +intercourse with the natives of this country as far to the north as +possible; that is, about Poverty or Tolaga Bays, where I apprehended they +were more civilized than at Queen Charlotte's Sound; in order to give them +some hogs, fowls, seeds, roots, &c. which I had provided for the purpose. +The wind veering to the N.W. and north, enabled us to fetch in with the +land a little to the north of Portland, and we stood as near the shore as +we could with safety. We observed several people upon it, but none +attempted to come off to us. Seeing this, we bore away under Portland, +where we lay-to some time, as well to give time for the natives to come +off, as to wait for the Adventure. There were several people on Portland, +but none seemed inclined to come to us; indeed the wind, at this time, blew +rather too fresh for them to make the attempt. Therefore, as soon as the +Adventure was up with us, we made sail for Cape Kidnappers, which we passed +at five o'clock in the morning, and continued our course along-shore till +nine, when, being about three leagues short off Black-head, we saw some +canoes put off from the shore. Upon this I brought to, in order to give +them time to come on board; but ordered the Adventure, by signal, to stand +on, as I was willing to lose as little time as possible. + +Those in the first canoe, which came along-side, were fishers, and +exchanged some fish for pieces of cloth and nails. In the next, were two +men, whom, by their dress and behaviour, I took to be chiefs.--These two +were easily prevailed on to come on board, when they were presented with +nails and other articles. They were so fond of nails, as to seize on all +they could find, and with such eagerness, as plainly shewed they were the +most valuable things we could give them. To the principal of these two men +I gave the pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. I believe, at first, he did not +think I meant to give them to him; for he took but little notice of them, +till he was satisfied they were for himself. Nor was he then in such a +rapture as when I gave him a spike-nail half the length of his arm. +However, at his going away I took notice, that he very well remembered how +many pigs and fowls had been given him, as he took care to have them all +collected together, and kept a watchful eye over them, lest any should be +taken away. He made me a promise not to kill any; and if he keeps his word, +and proper care is taken of them, there were enough to stock the whole +island in due time; being two boars, two sows, four hens, and two cocks; +The seeds were such as are most useful (viz.) wheat, French and kidney +beans, pease, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips, and yams, &c. +With these articles they were dismissed. It was evident these people had +not forgot the Endeavour being on their coast; for the first words they +spoke to us were, _Mataou no te pow pow_ (we are afraid of the guns). +As they could be no strangers to the affair which happened off Cape +Kidnappers in my former voyage, experience had taught them to have some +regard to these instruments of death. + +As soon as they were gone, we stretched off to the southward, the wind +having now veered to the W.S.W. In the afternoon it increased to a fresh +gale, and blew in squalls; in one of which we lost our fore-top-gallant +mast, having carried the sail a little too long. The fear of losing the +land induced me to carry as much sail as possible. At seven in the morning, +we tacked and stretched in shore, Cape Turnagain at this time bore about +N.W. 1/2 N. distant six or seven leagues. The Adventure, being a good way +to leeward, we supposed, did not observe the signal, but stood on; +consequently was separated from us. During the night (which was spent in +plying) the wind increased in such a manner as to bring us under our +courses; it also veered to S.W. and S.S.W., and was attended with rain. + +At nine in the morning on the 23d, the sky began to clear up, and the gale +to abate, so that we could carry close-reefed top-sails. At eleven o'clock +we were close in with Cape Turnagain, when we tacked and stood off; at noon +the said Cape bore west a little northerly, distant six or seven miles. +Latitude observed 41° 30' south. Soon after, the wind falling almost to a +calm, and flattering ourselves that it would be succeeded by one more +favourable, we got up another top-gallant-mast, rigged top-gallant-yards, +and loosed all the reefs out of the top-sails. The event was not equal to +our wishes. The wind, indeed, came something more favourable, that is at W. +by N., with which we stretched along shore to the southward; but it soon +increased in such a manner, as to undo what we had but just done, and at +last stripped us to our courses, and two close-reefed top-sails under which +sails we continued all night. About day-light, the next morning, the gale +abating, we were again tempted to loose out the reefs, and rig top-gallant- +yards, which proved all lost labour; for, by nine o'clock, we were reduced +to the same sail as before. Soon after, the Adventure joined us; and at +noon Cape Palliser bore west, distant eight or nine leagues. This Cape is +the northern point of Eaheinomauwe. We continued to stretch to the +southward till midnight, when the wind abated and shifted to S.E. Three +hours after, it fell calm, during which we loosed the reefs out, with the +vain hopes that the next wind which came would be favourable. We were +mistaken; the wind only took this short repose, in order to gain strength, +and fall the heavier upon us. For at five o'clock in the morning, being the +25th, a gale sprung up at N.W. with which we stretched to S.W.; Cape +Palliser at this time bore N.N.W., distant eight or nine leagues. The wind +increased in such a manner, as obliged us to take in one reef after +another; and, at last, it came on with such fury, as made it necessary to +take in all our sails with the utmost expedition, and to lie-to under bare +poles. The sea rose in proportion with the wind; so that we had a terrible +gale and a mountainous sea to encounter. Thus after beating up against a +hard gale for two days, and arriving just in sight of our port, we had the +mortification to be driven off from the land by a furious storm. Two +favourable circumstances attended it, which gave us some consolation; it +was fair over head, and we were not apprehensive of a lee-shore. + +The storm continued all the day without the least intermission. In the +evening we bore down to look for the Adventure, she being out of sight to +leeward, and after running the distance we supposed her to be off, brought +to again without seeing her; it being so very hazy and thick in the +horizon, that we could not see a mile round us, occasioned by the spray of +the sea being lifted up to a great height by the force of the wind. At +midnight the gale abated; soon after fell little wind; and at last shifted +to S.W., when we wore, set the courses and top-sails close-reefed, and +stood in for the land. Soon after the wind freshened and fixed at south; +but as the Adventure was some distance a-stern, we lay by for her till +eight o'clock, when we both made all sail, and steered N. by W. 1/2 W. for +the Strait. At noon observed in 42° 27' south, Cape Palliser, by judgment, +bore north, distant seventeen leagues. This favourable wind was not of +sufficient duration; in the afternoon it fell by little and little, and at +length to a calm; this at ten o'clock was succeeded by a fresh breeze from +the north, with which we stretched to the westward. + +At three o'clock next morning, we were pretty well in with Cape Campbell on +the west side of the Strait, when we tacked, and stretched over for Cape +Palliser, under courses and close-reefed top-sails, having the wind at +N.W., a very strong gale and fair weather. At noon, we tacked and stretched +to S.W., with the last-mentioned Cape bearing west, distant four or five +leagues. In the afternoon, the gale increased in such a manner as brought +us under our courses. We continued to stretch to the S.W. till midnight, +when we wore, and set close-reefed top-sails. + +On the 28th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we wore, and stood again to +the S.W. till noon, when we were obliged to lie-to under the fore-sail. At +this time the high land over Cape Campbell bore west, distant ten or twelve +leagues. The Adventure four or five miles to leeward. In the afternoon the +fury of the gale began to abate; when we set the main-sail, close-reefed +main-top-sail, and stood to the windward with the wind at W.N.W. and W. by +N. a strong gale, attended with heavy squalls. + +In the morning of the 29th, the wind abated and shifted to S.W. a gentle +gale. Of this we took immediate advantage, set all our sails, and stood for +Cape Palliser, which at noon bore W. by N. 1/2 N., distant about six +leagues. The wind continued between the S.W. and south till five in the +evening, when it fell calm. At this time we were about three leagues from +the Cape. At seven o'clock the calm was succeeded by a gentle breeze from +N.N.E., as fair as we could wish; so that we began to reckon what time we +should reach the Sound the next day; but at nine the wind shifted to its +old quarter N.W., and blew a fresh gale, with which we stretched to the +S.W., under single-reefed topsails and courses, with the Adventure in +company. She was seen until midnight, at which time she was two or three +miles a-stern, and presently after she disappeared; nor was she to be seen +at day-light. We supposed she had tacked and stood to the N.E., by which +manoeuvre we lost sight of her. + +We continued to stretch to the westward with the wind at N.N.W., which +increased in such a manner as to bring us under our two courses, after +splitting a new main-topsail. At noon Cape Campbell bore W. by N., distant +seven or eight leagues. At three in the afternoon the gale began to abate, +and to veer more to the north, so that we fetched in with the land, under +the Snowy Mountains, about four or five leagues to windward of the Lookers- +on, where there was the appearance of a large bay, I now regretted the loss +of the Adventure; for had she been with me, I should have given up all +thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's Sound to wood and water, and have +sought for a place to get these articles farther south, as the wind was now +favourable for ranging along the coast. But our separation made it +necessary for me to repair to the Sound, that being the place of +rendezvous. + +As we approached the land, we saw smoke in several places along the shore; +a sure sign that the coast was inhabited. Our soundings were from forty- +seven to twenty-five fathoms; that is, at the distance of three miles from +the shore, forty-seven fathoms; and twenty-five fathoms at the distance of +one mile, where we tacked, and stood to the eastward, under the two courses +and close-reefed top-sails; but the latter we could not carry long before +we were obliged to hand them. We continued to stand to the eastward all +night, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure in the morning. + +Seeing nothing of her then, we wore and brought to, under the fore-sail and +mizen-stay-sail, the wind having increased to a perfect storm; but we had +not been long in this situation before it abated, so as to permit us to +carry the two courses, under which we stood to the west; and at noon the +Snowy Mountains bore W.N.W., distant twelve or fourteen leagues. At six +o'clock in the evening the wind quite ceased; but this proved only a +momentary repose; for presently after it began to blow with redoubled fury, +and obliged us to lie-to under the mizen-stay-sail; in which situation we +continued till midnight, when the storm lessened; and two hours after it +fell calm. + +1773 November + +On the 1st of November, at four o'clock in the morning, the calm was +succeeded by a breeze from the south. This soon after increased to a fresh +gale, attended with hazy, rainy weather, which gave us hopes that the N.W. +winds were done; for it must be observed, that they were attended with +clear and fair weather. We were not wanting in taking immediate advantage +of this favourable wind, by setting all our sails, and steering for Cape +Campbell, which at noon bore north, distant three or four leagues. At two +o'clock we passed the Cape, and entered the Strait with a brisk gale a- +stern, and so likely to continue that we thought of nothing less than +reaching our port the next morning. Once more we were to be deceived; at +six o'clock, being off Cloudy Bay, our favourable wind was succeeded by one +from the north, which soon after veered to N.W., and increased to a fresh +gale. We spent the night plying; our tacks proved disadvantageous; and we +lost more on the ebb than we gained on the flood. Next morning, we +stretched over for the shore of Eaheinomauwe. At sun-rise the horizon being +extraordinarily clear to leeward, we looked well out for the Adventure; but +as we saw nothing of her, judged she had got into the Sound. As we +approached the above-mentioned shore, we discovered on the east side of +Cape Teerawhitte, a new inlet I had never observed before. Being tired +with beating against the N.W. winds, I resolved to put into this place if I +found it practicable, or to anchor in the bay which lies before it. The +flood being favourable, after making a stretch off, we fetched under the +Cape, and stretched into the bay along the western shore, having from +thirty-five to twelve fathoms, the bottom everywhere good anchorage. At one +o'clock we reached the entrance of the inlet just as the tide of ebb was +making out; the wind being likewise against us, we anchored in twelve +fathoms water, the bottom a fine sand. The easternmost of the Black Rocks, +which lie on the larboard side of the entrance of the inlet, bore N. by E., +one mile distant; Cape Teerawhitte, or the west point of the bay, west, +distant about two leagues; and the east point of the bay N. by east, four +or five miles. + +Soon after we had anchored, several of the natives came off in their +canoes; two from one shore, and one from the other. It required but little +address to get three or four of them on board. These people were +extravagantly fond of nails above every other thing. To one man I gave two +cocks and two hens, which he received with so much indifference, as gave me +little hopes he would take proper care of them. + +We had not been at anchor here above two hours, before the wind veered to +N.E., with which we weighed; but the anchor was hardly at the bows before +it shifted to the south. With this we could but just lead out of the bay, +and then bore away for the Sound under all the sail we could set; having +the advantage, or rather disadvantage, of an increasing gale, which already +blew too hard. We hauled up into the Sound just at dark, after making two +boards, in which most of our sails were split; and anchored in eighteen +fathoms water, between the White Rocks and the N.W. shore. + +The next morning the gale abated, and was succeeded by a few hours calm; +after that a breeze sprang up at N.W., with which we weighed and ran up +into Ship Cove, where we did not find the Adventure, as was expected. + +CHAPTER V. + +_Transactions at Queen Charlotte's Sound; with an Account of the +Inhabitants being Cannibals; and various other Incidents.--Departure from +the Sound, and our Endeavours to find the Adventure; with some Description +of the Coast._ + +1773 November + +The first thing we did after mooring the ship, was to unbend all the sails; +there not being one but what wanted repair. Indeed, both our sails and +rigging had sustained much damage in beating off the Strait's mouth. + +We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the natives, several of +whom I remembered to have seen when I was here in the Endeavour, +particularly an old man named Goubiah. In the afternoon, I gave orders +for all the empty water casks to be landed, in order to be repaired, +cleaned, and filled, tents to be set up for the sail-makers, coopers, and +others, whose business made it necessary for them to be on shore. The next +day we began to caulk the ship's sides and decks, to overhaul her rigging, +repair the sails, cut wood for fuel, and set up the smith's forge to repair +the iron-work; all of which were absolutely necessary. We also made some +hauls with the seine, but caught no fish; which deficiency the natives in +some measure, made up, by bringing us a good quantity, and exchanging them +for pieces of Otaheitean cloth, &c. + +On the 5th, the most part of our bread being in casks, I ordered some to be +opened, when, to our mortification, we found a good deal of it damaged. To +repair this loss in the best manner we could, all the casks were opened; +the bread was picked, and the copper oven set up, to bake such parcels of +it, as, by that means, could be recovered. Some time this morning, the +natives stole, out of one of the tents, a bag of clothes belonging to one +of the seamen. As soon as I was informed of it, I went to them in an +adjoining cove, demanded the clothes again, and, after some time spent in +friendly application, recovered them. Since we were among thieves, and had +come off so well, I was not sorry for what had happened, as it taught our +people to keep a better lookout for the future. + +With these people I saw the youngest of the two sows Captain Furneaux had +put on shore in Cannibal Cove, when we were last here: It was lame of one +of its hind legs; otherwise in good case, and very tame. If we understood +these people right, the boar and other sow were also taken away and +separated, but not killed. We were likewise told, that the two goats I had +put on shore up the Sound, had been killed by that old rascal Goubiah. Thus +all our endeavours to stock this country with useful animals were likely to +be frustrated, by the very people we meant to serve. Our gardens had fared +somewhat better. Every thing in them, except the potatoes, they had left +entirely to nature, who had acted her part so well, that we found most +articles in a flourishing state: A proof that the winter must have been +mild. The potatoes had most of them been dug up; some, however, still +remained, and were growing, though I think it is probable they will never +be got out of the ground. + +Next morning I sent over to the cove, where the natives reside, to haul the +seine; and took with me a boar, and a young sow, two cocks, and two hens, +we had brought from the isles. These I gave to the natives, being persuaded +they would take proper care of them, by their keeping Captain Furneaux's +sow near five months; for I am to suppose it was caught soon after we +sailed. We had no better success with the seine than before; nevertheless +we did not return on board quite empty, having purchased a large quantity +from the natives. When we were upon this traffic, they shewed a great +inclination to pick my pockets, and to take away the fish with one hand, +which they had just given me with the other. This evil one of the chiefs +undertook to remove, and with fury in his eyes made a shew of keeping the +people at a proper distance. I applauded his conduct, but at the same time +kept so good a look-out, as to detect him in picking my pocket of an +handkerchief; which I suffered him to put in his bosom before I seemed to +know any thing of the matter, and then told him what I had lost. He seemed +quite ignorant and innocent, till I took it from him; and then he put it +off with a laugh, acting his part with so much address, that it was hardly +possible for me to be angry with him; so that we remained good friends, and +he accompanied me on board to dinner. About that time, we were visited by +several strangers, in four or five canoes, who brought with them fish, and +other articles, which they exchanged for cloth, &c. These newcomers took up +their quarters in a cove near us; but very early the next morning moved off +with six of our small water casks; and with them all the people we found +here on our arrival. This precipitate retreat of these last, we supposed +was owing to the theft the others had committed. They left behind them some +of their dogs, and the boar I had given them the day before, which I now +took back again as I had not another. Our casks were the least loss we felt +by these people leaving us: While they remained, we were generally well +supplied with fish at a small expence. + +We had fair weather, with the wind at N.E., on the 9th, which gave us some +hopes of seeing the Adventure; but these hopes vanished in the afternoon, +when the wind shifted to the westward. + +The next morning, our friends the natives returned again, and brought with +them a quantity of fish, which they exchanged for two hatchets. + +Fair weather on the 12th, enabled us to finish picking, airing, and baking +our biscuit; four thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds of which we +found totally unfit to eat; and about three thousand pounds more could only +be eaten by people in our situation. + +On the 13th, clear and pleasant weather. Early in the morning the natives +brought us a quantity of fish, which they exchanged as usual. But their +greatest branch of trade was the green talc or stone, called by them +Poenammoo, a thing of no great value; nevertheless it was so much sought +after by our people, that there was hardly a thing they would not give for +a piece of it. + +The 15th being a pleasant morning, a party of us went over to the East Bay, +and climbed one of the hills which overlooked the eastern part of the +Strait, in order to look for the Adventure. We had a fatiguing walk to +little purpose; for when we came to the summit, we found the eastern +horizon so foggy, that we could not see above two miles. Mr Forster, who +was one of the party, profited by this excursion, in collecting some new +plants. I now began to despair of seeing the Adventure any more; but was +totally at a loss to conceive what was become of her. Till now, I thought +she had put into some port in the Strait, when the wind came to N.W., the +day we anchored in the Cove, and waited to complete her water. This +conjecture was reasonable enough at first, but it was now hardly probable +she could be twelve days in our neighbourhood, without our either hearing +or seeing something of her. + +The hill we now mounted is the same that I was upon in 1770, when I had the +second view of the Strait: We then built a tower, with the stones we found +there, which we now saw had been levelled to the ground; no doubt by the +natives, with a view of finding something hid in it. When we returned from +the hill, we found a number of them collected round our boat. After some +exchanges, and making them some presents, we embarked, in order to return +on board; and, in our way, visited others of the inhabitants, by whom we +were kindly received. + +Our friends, the natives, employed themselves on the 17th in fishing in our +neighbourhood; and, as fast as they caught the fish, came and disposed of +them to us; insomuch that we had more than we could make use of. From this +day to the 22d nothing remarkable happened, and we were occupied in getting +every thing in readiness to put to sea, being resolved to wait no longer +than the assigned time for the Adventure. + +The winds were between the south and west, stormy with rain till the 23d, +when the weather became settled, clear, and pleasant. Very early in the +morning, we were visited by a number of the natives, in four or five +canoes, very few of whom we had seen before. They brought with them various +articles (curiosities), which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, &c. At +first, the exchanges were very much in our favour, till an old man, who was +no stranger to us, came and assisted his countrymen with his advice; which, +in a moment, turned the trade above a thousand per cent, against us. + +After these people were gone, I took four hogs (that is, three sows and one +boar), two cocks and two hens, which I landed in the bottom of the West +Bay; carrying them a little way into the woods, where we left them with as +much food as would serve them ten or twelve days. This was done with a view +of keeping them in the woods, lest they should come down to the shore in +search of food, and be discovered by the natives; which, however, seemed +not probable, as this place had never been frequented by them; nor were any +traces of them to be seen near it. We also left some cocks and hens in the +woods in Ship Cove; but these will have a chance of falling into the hands +of the natives, whose wandering way of life will hinder them from breeding, +even suppose they should be taken proper care of. Indeed, they took rather +too much care of those which I had already given them, by keeping them +continually confined, for fear of losing them in the woods. The sow pig we +had not seen since the day they had her from me; but we were now told she +was still living, as also the old boar and sow given them by Captain +Furneaux; so that there is reason to hope they may succeed. It will be +unfortunate, indeed, if every method I have taken, to provide this country +with useful animals, should be frustrated. We were likewise told, that the +two goats were still alive, and running about; but I gave more credit to +the first story than this. I should have replaced them, by leaving behind +the only two I had left, but had the misfortune to lose the ram soon after +our arrival here, in a manner we could hardly account for. They were both +put ashore at the tents, where they seemed to thrive very well; at last, +the ram was taken with fits bordering on madness. We were at a loss to tell +whether it was occasioned by any thing he had eaten, or by being stung with +nettles, which were in plenty about the place; but supposed it to be the +latter, and therefore did not take the care of him we ought to have done. +One night, while he was lying by the centinel, he was seized with one of +these fits, and ran headlong into the sea; but soon came out again, and +seemed quite easy. Presently after, he was seized with another fit, and ran +along the beach, with the she-goat after him. Some time after she returned, +but the other was never seen more. Diligent search was made for him in the +woods to no purpose; we therefore supposed he had run into the sea a second +time, and had been drowned. After this accident, it would have been in vain +to leave the she-goat, as she was not with kid; having kidded but a few +days before we arrived, and the kids dead. Thus the reader will see how +every method I have taken to stock this country with sheep and goats has +proved ineffectual. + +When I returned on board in the evening, I found our good friends the +natives had brought us a large supply of fish. Some of the officers +visiting them at their habitations, saw, among them, some human thigh- +bones, from which the flesh had been but lately picked. This, and other +circumstances, led us to believe that the people, whom we took for +strangers this morning, were of the same tribe; that they had been out on +some war expedition; and that those things they sold us, were the spoils of +their enemies. Indeed, we had some information of this sort the day before; +for a number of women and children came off to us in a canoe, from whom we +learnt that a party of men were then out, for whose safety they were under +some apprehension; but this report found little credit with us, as we soon +after saw some canoes come in from fishing, which we judged to be them. + +Having now got the ship in a condition for sea, and to encounter the +southern latitudes, I ordered the tents to be struck, and every thing to be +got on board. + +The boatswain, with a party of men, being in the woods cutting broom, some +of them found a private hut of the natives, in which was deposited most of +the treasure they had received from us, as well as some other articles of +their own. It is very probable some were set to watch this hut; as, soon +after it was discovered, they came and took all away. But missing some +things, they told our people they had stolen them; and in the evening, came +and made their complaint to me, pitching upon one of the party as the +person who had committed the theft. Having ordered this man to be punished +before them, they went away seemingly satisfied; although they did not +recover any of the things they had lost, nor could I by any means find out +what had become of them; though nothing was more certain, than that +something had been stolen by some of the party, if not by the very man the +natives had pitched upon. It was ever a maxim with me, to punish the least +crimes any of my people committed against these uncivilized nations. Their +robbing us with impunity is, by no means, a sufficient reason why we should +treat them in the same manner, a conduct, we see, they themselves cannot +justify: They found themselves injured, and sought for redress in a legal +way. The best method, in my opinion, to preserve a good understanding with +such people, is, first, by shewing them the use of firearms, to convince +them of the superiority they give you over them, and then to be always upon +your guard. When once they are sensible of these things, a regard for their +own safety will deter them from disturbing you, or from being unanimous in +forming any plan to attack you; and strict honesty, and gentle treatment on +your part, will make it their interest not to do it. + +Calm or light airs from the north all day on the 23d, hindered us from +putting to sea as intended. In the afternoon, some of the officers went +on shore to amuse themselves among the natives, where they saw the head and +bowels of a youth, who had lately been killed, lying on the beach; and the +heart stuck on a forked stick, which was fixed to the head of one of the +largest canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head, and brought it on +board, where a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the +natives, before all the officers and most of the men. I was on shore at +this time, but soon after returning on board, was informed of the above +circumstances; and found the quarter-deck crowded with the natives, and the +mangled head, or rather part of it, (for the under-jaw and lip were +wanting) lying on the tafferal. The skull had been broken on the left +side, just above the temples; and the remains of the face had all the +appearance of a youth under twenty. + +The sight of the head, and the relation of the above circumstances, struck +me with horror, and filled my mind with indignation against these +cannibals. Curiosity, however, got the better of my indignation, especially +when I considered that it would avail but little; and being desirous of +becoming an eye-witness of a fact which many doubted, I ordered a piece of +the flesh to be broiled and brought to the quarter-deck, where one of these +cannibals eat it with surprising avidity. This had such an effect on some +of our people as to make them sick. Oedidee (who came on board with me) was +so affected with the sight as to become perfectly motionless, and seemed as +if metamorphosed into the statue of horror. It is utterly impossible for +art to describe that passion with half the force that it appeared in his +countenance. When roused from this state by some of us, he burst into +tears; continued to weep and scold by turns; told them they were vile men; +and that he neither was, nor would be any longer their friend. He even +would not suffer them to touch him; he used the same language to one of the +gentlemen who cut off the flesh; and refused to accept, or even touch the +knife with which it was done. Such was Oedidee's indignation against the +vile custom; and worthy of imitation by every rational being. + +I was not able to find out the reason for their undertaking this +expedition; all I could understand for certain was, that they went from +hence into Admiralty Bay (the next inlet to the west), and there fought +with their enemies, many of whom they killed. They counted to me fifty; a +number which exceeded probability, as they were not more, if so many, +themselves. I think I understood them clearly, that this youth was killed +there; and not brought away prisoner, and afterwards killed. Nor could I +learn that they had brought away any more than this one; which increased +the improbability of their having killed so many. We had also reason to +think that they did not come off without loss; for a young woman was seen, +more than once, to cut herself, as is the custom when they lose a friend or +relation. + +That the New Zealanders are cannibals, can now no longer be doubted. The +account given of this in my former voyage, being partly founded on +circumstances, was, as I afterwards understood, discredited by many +persons. Few consider what a savage man is in his natural state, and even +after he is, in some degree, civilized. The New Zealanders are certainly in +some state of civilization; their behaviour to us was manly and mild, +shewing, on all occasions, a readiness to oblige. They have some arts among +them which they execute with great judgment and unwearied patience; they +are far less addicted to thieving than the other islanders of the South +Sea; and I believe those in the same tribe, or such as are at peace one +with another, are strictly honest among themselves. This custom of eating +their enemies slain in battle (for I firmly believe they eat the flesh of +no others) has undoubtedly been handed down to them from the earliest +times; and we know it is not an easy matter to wean a nation from their +ancient customs, let them be ever so inhuman and savage; especially if that +nation has no manner of connexion or commerce with strangers. For it is by +this that the greatest part of the human race has been civilized; an +advantage which the New Zealanders, from their situation, never had. An +intercourse with foreigners would reform their manners, and polish their +savage minds. Or, were they more united under a settled form of government, +they would have fewer enemies, consequently this custom would be less in +use, and might in time be in a manner forgotten. At present, they have but +little idea of treating others as themselves would _wish_ to be +treated, but treat them as they _expect_ to be treated. If I remember +right, one of the arguments they made use of to Tupia, who frequently +expostulated with them against this custom, was, that there could be no +harm in killing and eating the man who would do the same by them if it was +in his power. "For," said they, "can there be any harm in eating our +enemies, whom we have killed in battle? Would not those very enemies have +done the same to us?" I have often seen them listen to Tupia with great +attention; but I never found his arguments have any weight with them, or +that with all his rhetoric, he could persuade any one of them that this +custom was wrong. And when Oedidee, and several of our people, shewed their +abhorrence of it, they only laughed at them. + +Among many reasons which I have heard assigned for the prevalence of this +horrid custom, the want of animal food has been one; but how far this is +deducible either from facts or circumstances, I shall leave those to find +out who advanced it. In every part of New Zealand where I have been, fish +was in such plenty, that the natives generally caught as much as served +both themselves and us. They have also plenty of dogs; nor is there any +want of wild fowl, which they know very well how to kill. So that neither +this, nor the want of food of any kind, can, in my opinion, be the reason. +But, whatever it may be, I think it was but too evident, that they have a +great liking for this kind of food. + +I must here observe, that Oedidee soon learnt to converse with these +people, as I am persuaded, he would have done with the people of Amsterdam, +had he been a little longer with them; for he did not understand the New +Zealanders, at first, any more, or not so much, as he understood the people +of Amsterdam. + +At four o'clock in the morning, on the 24th, we unmoored with an intent to +put to sea; but the wind being at N. and N.E. without, and blowing strong +puffs into the cove, made it necessary for us to lie fast. While we were +unmooring, some of our old friends came on board to take their leave of us, +and afterwards left the cove with all their effects; but those who had been +out on the late expedition remained; and some of the gentlemen having +visited them, found the heart still sticking on the canoe, and the +intestines lying on the beach; but the liver and lungs were now wanting. +Probably they had eaten them, after the carcase was all gone. + +On the 25th, early in the morning, we weighed, with a small, breeze out of +the cove, which carried us no farther than between Motuara and Long Island, +where we were obliged to anchor; but presently after a breeze springing up +at north, we weighed again, turned out of the Sound, and stood over for +Cape Teerawhitte. + +During our stay in the Sound, we were plentifully supplied with fish, +procured from the natives at a very easy rate; and, besides the vegetables +our own gardens afforded, we found every where plenty of scurvy grass and +cellery, which I caused to be dressed every day for all hands. By this +means, they had been mostly on a fresh diet for the three preceding months; +and at this time, we had neither a sick nor scorbutic man on board. It is +necessary to mention, for the information of others, that we had now some +pork on board, salted at Ulietea, and as good as any I ever eat. The manner +in which we cured it, was this: In the cool of the evening the hogs were +killed, dressed, cut up, the bones cut out, and the flesh salted while it +was yet hot. The next morning we gave it a second salting, packed it into a +cask, and put to it a sufficient quantity of strong pickle. Great care is +to be taken that the meat be well covered with pickle, otherwise it will +soon spoil. + +The morning before we sailed, I wrote a memorandum, setting forth the time +we last arrived, the day we sailed, the route I intended to take, and such +other information as I thought necessary for Captain Furneaux, in case he +should put into the Sound; and buried it in a bottle under the root of a +tree in the garden, which is in the bottom of the cove, in such a manner as +must be found by him or any other European who might put into the cove. I, +however, had little reason to hope it would fall into the hands of the +person for whom it was intended, thinking it hardly possible that the +Adventure could be in any port in New Zealand, as we had not heard of her +all this time. Nevertheless I was resolved not to leave the coast without +looking for her, where I thought it most likely for her to be. It was with +this view that I stood over for Cape Teerawhitte, and afterwards ran along- +shore, from point to point, to Cape Palliser, firing guns every half hour; +but all to no effect. At eight o'clock we brought-to for the night, Cape +Palliser bearing S.E. by E. distant three leagues; in which situation we +had fifty fathoms water. + +I had now an opportunity of making the following remarks on the coast +between Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser: The bay which lies on the west +side of the last Cape, does not appear to run so far inland to the +northward as I at first thought; the deception being caused by the land in +the bottom of it being low: It is, however, at least five leagues deep, and +full as wide at the entrance. Though it seems to be exposed to southerly +and S.W. winds, it is probable there may be places in the bottom of it +sheltered even from these. The bay or inlet, on the east side of Cape +Teerawhitte, before which we anchored, lies in north, inclining to the +west, and seemed to be sheltered from all winds. The middle cape, or point +of land that disjoins these two bays, rises to a considerable height, +especially inland; for close to the sea is a skirt of low land, off which +lie some pointed rocks, but so near to the shore as to be noways dangerous. +Indeed, the navigation of this side of the Strait seems much safer than the +other, because the tides here are not near so strong. Cape Teerawhitte and +Cape Palliser lie in the direction of N. 69° W., and S. 69° east, from each +other distant ten leagues. The cape which disjoins the two bays above- +mentioned lies within, or north of this direction. All the land near the +coast, between and about these capes, is exceedingly barren; probably owing +to its being so much exposed to the cold southerly winds. From Cape +Teerawhitte to the Two Brothers, which lie off Cape Koamoroo, the course is +nearly N.W. by N. distant sixteen miles. North of Cape Teerawhitte, between +it and Entry Island, is an island lying pretty near the shore. I judged +this to be an island when I saw it in my former voyage, but not being +certain, left it undetermined in my chart of the Strait, which is the +reason of my taking notice of it now, as also of the bays, &c. above- +mentioned. + +At day-light in the morning on the 26th, we made sail round Cape Palliser, +firing guns as usual, as we ran along the shore. In this manner we +proceeded till we were three or four leagues to the N.E. of the Cape; when +the wind shifted to N.E., we bore away for Cape Campbell on the other side +of the Strait. Soon after, seeing a smoke ascend, at some distance inland, +away to the N.E. we hauled the wind, and continued to ply till six o'clock +in the evening; which was several hours after the smoke disappeared, and +left us not the least signs of people. + +Every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither be +stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours thereof, I gave up +looking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any more during the voyage, +as no rendezvous was absolutely fixed upon after leaving New Zealand. +Nevertheless, this did not discourage me from fully exploring the southern +parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which I intended to employ the +whole of the ensuing season. + +On our quitting the coast, and consequently all hopes of being joined by +our consort, I had the satisfaction to find that not a man was dejected, or +thought the dangers we had yet to go through, were in the least increased +by being alone; but as cheerfully proceeding to the south, or wherever I +might think proper to lead them, as if the Adventure, or even more ships, +had been in our company. + +CHAPTER VI. + +_Route of the Ship from New Zealand in Search of a Continent; with an +Account of the various Obstructions met with from the Ice, and the Methods +pursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean._ + +1773 November + +AT eight o'clock in the evening of the 26th, we took our departure from +Cape Palliser, and steered to the south, inclining to the east, having a +favourable gale from the N.W. and S.W. We daily saw some rock-weeds, seals, +Port Egmont hens, albatrosses, pintadoes, and other peterels. + +1773 December + +And on the 2d of December, being in the latitude of 48° 23' south, +longitude 179° 16' west, we saw a number of red-billed penguins, which +remained about us for several days. On the 5th, being in the latitude +50° 17' south, longitude 179° 40' east, the variation was 18° 25' east. +At half an hour past eight o'clock the next evening, we reckoned +ourselves antipodes to our friends in London, consequently as far removed +from them as possible. + +On the 8th, being in the latitude 55° 39', longitude 178° 53' west, we +ceased to see penguins and seals, and concluded that those we had seen, +retired to the southern parts of New Zealand, whenever it was necessary for +them to be at land. We had now a strong gale at N.W., and a great swell +from S.W. This swell we got as soon as the south point of New Zealand came +in that direction; and as we had had no wind from that quarter the six +preceding days, but, on the contrary, it had been at east, north, and N.W., +I conclude there can be no land to the southward, under the meridian of New +Zealand, but what must lie very far to the south. The two following days we +had very stormy weather, sleet and snow, winds between the north and south- +west. + +The 11th the storm abated, and the weather clearing up, we found the +latitude to be 61° 15' south, longitude 173° 4' W. This fine weather was of +short duration; in the evening, the wind increased to a strong gale at S. +W., blew in squalls, attended with thick snow showers, hail, and sleet. The +mercury in the thermometer fell to thirty-two; consequently the weather was +very cold, and seemed to indicate that ice was not far off. + +At four o'clock the next morning, being in the latitude of 62° 10' south, +longitude 172° west, we saw the first ice island, 11° 1/2 farther south +than the first ice we saw the preceding year after leaving the Cape of Good +Hope. At the time we saw this ice, we also saw an antarctic peterel, some +grey albatrosses, and our old companions pintadoes and blue peterels. The +wind kept veering from S.W. by the N.W. to N.N.E. for the most part a +fresh gale, attended with a thick haze and snow; on which account we +steered to the S.E. and E., keeping the wind always on the beam, that it +might be in our power to return back nearly on the same track, should our +course have been interrupted by any danger whatever. For some days we had a +great sea from the N.W. and S.W., so that it is not probable there can be +any land near, between these two points. + +We fell in with several large islands on the 14th, and about noon, with a +quantity of loose ice, through which we sailed. Latitude 64° 55' south, +longitude 163° 20' west. Grey albatrosses, blue peterels, pintadoes, and +fulmers, were seen. As we advanced to the S.E. by E. with a fresh gale at +west, we found the number of ice islands increase fast upon us. Between +noon and eight in the evening we saw but two; but before four o'clock in +the morning of the 15th, we had passed seventeen, besides a quantity of +loose ice which we ran through. At six o'clock, we were obliged to haul to +the N.E., in order to clear an immense field that lay to the south and S. +E. The ice, in most part of it, lay close packed together; in other places, +there appeared partitions in the field, and a clear sea beyond it. However, +I did not think it safe to venture through, as the wind would not permit us +to return the same way that we must go in. Besides, as it blew strong, and +the weather at times was exceedingly foggy, it was the more necessary for +us to get clear of this loose ice, which is rather more dangerous than the +great islands. It was not such ice as is usually found in bays or rivers +and near shore; but such as breaks off from the islands, and may not +improperly be called parings of the large pieces, or the rubbish or +fragments which fall off when the great islands break loose from the place +where they are formed. + +We had not stood long to the N.E. before we found ourselves embayed by the +ice, and were obliged to tack and stretch to the S.W., having the field, +or loose ice, to the south, and many huge islands to the north. After +standing two hours on this tack, the wind very luckily veering to the +westward, we tacked, stretched to the north, and soon got clear of the +loose ice; but not before we had received several hard knocks from the +larger pieces, which, with all our care, we could not avoid. After clearing +one danger we still had another to encounter; the weather remained foggy, +and many large islands lay in our way; so that we had to luff for one, and +bear up for another. One we were very near falling aboard of, and, if it +had happened, this circumstance would never have been related. These +difficulties, together with the improbability of finding land farther +south, and the impossibility of exploring it, on account of the ice, if we +should find any, determined me to get more to the north. At the time we +last tacked, we were in the longitude of 159° 20' W., and in the latitude +of 66° 0' S. Several penguins were seen on some of these islands, and a few +antarctic peterels on the wing. + +We continued to stand to the north, with a fresh gale at west, attended +with thick snow showers, till eight o'clock in the evening, when the wind +abated, the sky began to clear up, and at six o'clock in the morning of the +16th it fell calm. Four hours after, it was succeeded by a breeze at N.E. +with which we stretched to the S.E., having thick hazy weather, with snow +showers, and all our rigging coated with ice. In the evening, we attempted +to take some up out of the sea, but were obliged to desist; the sea running +too high, and the pieces being so large, that it was dangerous for the boat +to come near them. + +The next morning, being the 17th, we succeeded better; for, falling in with +a quantity of loose ice, we hoisted out two boats; and by noon got on board +as much as we could manage. We then made sail for the east, with a gentle +breeze northerly, attended with snow and sleet, which froze to the rigging +as it fell. At this time we were in the latitude of 64° 41' south, +longitude 155° 44' west. The ice we took up proved to be none of the best, +being chiefly composed of frozen snow; on which account it was porous, and +had imbibed a good deal of salt water; but this drained off, after lying a +while on deck, and the water then yielded was fresh. We continued to +stretch to the east, with a piercing cold northerly wind, attended with a +thick fog, snow, and sleet, that decorated all our rigging with icicles. We +were hourly meeting with some of the large ice islands, which, in these +high latitudes, render navigation so very dangerous: At seven in the +evening, falling in with a cluster of them, we narrowly escaped running +aboard of one, and, with difficulty, wore clear of the others. We stood +back to the west till ten o'clock; at which time the fog cleared away, and +we resumed our course to the east. At noon, the next day, we were in the +latitude of 64° 49' S., longitude 149° 19' W. Some time after, our +longitude, by observed distance of the sun and moon, was 149° 19' W.; by Mr +Kendal's watch 148° 36'; and, by my reckoning, 148° 43', latitude 64° 48' +S. + +The clear weather, and the wind veering to N.W., tempted me to steer south; +which course we continued till seven in the morning of the 20th, when the +wind changing to N.E. and the sky becoming clouded, we hauled up S.E. In +the afternoon the wind increased to a strong gale, attended with a thick +fog, snow, sleet, and rain, which constitutes the very worst of weather. +Our rigging, at this time, was so loaded with ice, that we had enough to do +to get our topsails down, to double the reef. At seven o'clock in the +evening, in the longitude of 147° 46', we came, the second time, within the +antarctic or polar circle, continuing our course to the S.E. till six +o'clock the next morning. At that time, being in the latitude of 67° 5' S., +all at once we got in among a cluster of very large ice islands, and a vast +quantity of loose pieces; and as the fog was exceedingly thick, it was with +the utmost difficulty we wore clear of them. This done, we stood to the +N.W. till noon, when, the fog being somewhat dissipated, we resumed our +course again to the S.E. The ice islands we met with in the morning were +very high and rugged, forming at their tops, many peaks; whereas the most +of those we had seen before, were flat at top, and not so high; though many +of them were between two and three hundred feet in height, and between two +and three miles in circuit, with perpendicular cliffs or sides, astonishing +to behold. Most or our winged companions had now left us; the grey +albatrosses only remained; and, instead of the other birds, we were visited +by a few antarctic peterels. + +The 22d we steered E.S.E. with a fresh gale at north, blowing in squalls, +one of which took hold of the mizen top-sail, tore it all to rags, and +rendered it forever after useless. At six o'clock in the morning, the wind +veering towards the west, our course was east northerly. At this time we +were in the latitude of 67° 31', the highest we had yet been in, longitude +142° 54' W. + +We continued our course to the E. by N. till noon, the 23d, when being in +the latitude of 67° 12', longitude 138° 0', we steered S.E.; having then +twenty-three ice islands in sight, from off the deck, and twice that number +from the mast-head; and yet we could not see above two or three miles round +us. At four o'clock in the afternoon, in the latitude of 67° 20', longitude +137° 12', we fell in with such a quantity of field, or loose ice, as +covered the sea in the whole extent from south to east, and was so thick +and close as wholly to obstruct our passage. At this time, the wind being +pretty moderate, and the sea smooth, we brought-to, at the outer edge of +the ice, hoisted out two boats, and sent them to take some up. In the mean +time, we laid hold of several large pieces along-side, and got them on +board with our tackle. The taking up ice proved such cold work, that it was +eight o'clock by the time the boats had made two trips, when we hoisted +them in, and made sail to the west, under double-reefed top-sails and +courses, with a strong gale at north, attended with snow and sleet, which +froze to the rigging as it fell, making the ropes like wires, and the sails +like boards or plates of metal. The sheaves also were frozen so fast in the +blocks, that it required our utmost efforts to get a top-sail down and up; +the cold so intense as hardly to be endured; the whole sea, in a manner, +covered with ice; a hard gale, and a thick fog. + +Under all these unfavourable circumstances, it was natural for me to think +of returning more to the north; seeing no probability of finding any land +here, nor a possibility of getting farther south. And to have proceeded to +the east in this latitude, must have been wrong, not only on account of the +ice, but because we must have left a vast space of sea to the north +unexplored, a space of 24° of latitude; in which a large tract of land +might have lain. Whether such a supposition was well-grounded, could only +be determined by visiting those parts. + +While we were taking up ice, we got two of the antarctic peterels so often +mentioned, by which our conjectures were confirmed of their being of the +peterel tribe. They are about the size of a large pigeon; the feathers of +the head, back, and part of the upper side of the wings, are of a light- +brown; the belly, and under side of the wings white, the tail feathers are +also white, but tipped with brown; at the same time, we got another new +peterel, smaller than the former, and all of a dark-grey plumage. We +remarked that these birds were fuller of feathers than any we had hitherto +seen; such care has nature taken to clothe them suitably to the climate in +which they live. At the same time we saw a few chocolate-coloured +albatrosses; these, as well as the peterels above-mentioned, we no where +saw but among the ice; hence one may with reason conjecture that there is +land to the south. If not, I must ask where these birds breed? A question +which perhaps will never be determined; for hitherto we have found these +lands, if any, quite inaccessible. Besides these birds, we saw a very large +seal, which kept playing about us some time. One of our people who had been +at Greenland, called it a sea-horse; but every one else took it for what I +have said. Since our first falling in with the ice, the mercury in the +thermometer had been from 33 to 31 at noon-day. + +On the 24th, the wind abated, veering to the N.W., and the sky cleared up, +in the latitude of 67° 0' longitude 138° 15'. As we advanced to the N.E. +with a gentle gale at N.W., the ice islands increased so fast upon us, that +this day, at noon, we could see near 100 round us, besides an immense +number of small pieces. Perceiving that it was likely to be calm, I got the +ship into as clear a birth as I could, where she drifted along with the +ice, and by taking the advantage of every light air of wind, was kept from +falling aboard any of these floating isles. Here it was we spent Christmas +day, much in the same manner as we did the preceding one. We were fortunate +in having continual day-light, and clear weather, for had it been as foggy +as on some of the preceding days, nothing less than a miracle could have +saved us from being dashed to pieces. + +In the morning of the 26th, the whole sea was in a manner covered with ice, +200 large islands, and upwards, being seen within the compass of four or +five miles, which was the limits of our horizon, besides smaller pieces +innumerable. Our latitude at noon was 66° 15', longitude 134° 22'. By +observation we found that the ship had drifted, or gone about 20 miles to +the N.E. or E.N.E.; whereas, by the ice islands, it appeared that she had +gone little or nothing; from which we concluded that the ice drifted nearly +in the same direction, and at the same rate. At four o'clock a breeze +sprung up at W.S.W., and enabled us to steer north, the most probable +course to extricate ourselves from these dangers. + +We continued our course to the north with a gentle breeze at west, attended +with clear weather, till four o'clock the next morning, when meeting with a +quantity of loose ice, we brought-to, and took on board as much as filled +all our empty casks, and for several days present expence. This done, we +made sail, and steered N.W. with a gentle breeze at N.E., clear frosty +weather. Our latitude at this time was 65° 53' S., longitude 133° 42' W.; +islands of ice not half so numerous as before. + +At four in the morning of the 28th, the wind having veered more to the E. +and S.E., increased to a fresh gale, and was attended with snow showers. +Our course was north till noon the next day. Being then in the latitude of +62° 24', longitude 134° 37', we steered N.W. by N. Some hours after, the +sky cleared up, and the wind abating, veered more to the south. + +On the 30th, had little wind westerly; dark gloomy weather; with snow and +sleet at times; several whales seen playing about the ship, but very few +birds; islands of ice in plenty, and a swell from W.N.W. + +On the 31st, little wind from the westward, fair and clear weather, which +afforded an opportunity to air the spare sails, and to clean and smoke the +ship between decks. At noon our latitude was 59° 40' S., longitude 135° 11' +W. Our observation to-day gave us reason to conjecture that we had a +southerly current. Indeed, this was no more than what might reasonably be +supposed, to account for such huge masses of ice being brought from the +south. In the afternoon we had a few hours calm, succeeded by a breeze from +the east, which enabled us to resume our N.W. by N. course. + +1774 January + +January 1st, the wind remained not long at east, but veered round by the +south to the west; blew fresh, attended with snow showers. In the evening, +being in the latitude of 58° 39' S., we passed two islands of ice, after +which we saw no more till we stood again to the south. + +At five o'clock in the morning on the 2d, it fell calm; being at this time +in the latitude of 58° 2', longitude 137° 12'. The calm being succeeded by +a breeze at east, we steered N.W. by W. My reason for steering this course, +was to explore part of the great space of sea between us and our track to +the south. + +On the 3d, at noon, being in latitude 56° 46', longitude 139° 45', the +weather became fair, and the wind veered to S.W. About this time we saw a +few small divers (as we call them) of the peterel tribe, which we judged to +be such as are usually seen near land, especially in the bays, and on the +coast of New Zealand. I cannot tell what to think of these birds; had there +been more of them, I should have been ready enough to believe that we were, +at this time, not very far from land, as I never saw one so far from known +land before. Probably these few had been drawn thus far by some shoal of +fish; for such were certainly about us, by the vast number of blue +peterels, albatrosses, and such other birds as are usually seen in the +great ocean; all or most of which left us before night. Two or three pieces +of seaweed were also seen, but these appeared old and decayed. + +At eight o'clock in the evening, being in the latitude of 56° S., longitude +140° 31' W., the wind fixing in the western board, obliged us to steer +north-easterly, and laid me under the necessity of leaving unexplored a +space of the sea to the west, containing near 40° of longitude, and half +that of latitude. Had the wind continued favourable, I intended to have run +15 or 20 degrees of longitude more to the west in the latitude we were then +in, and back again to the east in the latitude of 50°. This route would +have so intersected the space above mentioned, as hardly to have left room +for the bare supposition of any land lying there. Indeed, as it was, we +have little reason to believe that there is; but rather the contrary, from +the great hollow swell we had had, for several days, from the W. and N.W., +though the wind had blown from a contrary direction great part of the time; +which is a great sign we had not been covered by any land between these two +points. + +While we were in the high latitudes, many of our people were attacked with +a slight fever, occasioned by colds. It happily yielded to the simplest +remedies; was generally removed in a few days; and, at this time, we had +not above one or two on the sick list. + +We proceeded N.E. by N. till the 6th, at noon. Being then in the latitude +of 52° 0' S., longitude 135° 32' W., and about 200 leagues from our track +to Otaheite, in which space it was not probable, all circumstances +considered, there is any extensive land, and it being still less probable +any lay to the west, from the great mountainous billows we had had, and +still continued to have, from that quarter, I therefore steered N.E., with +a fresh gale at W.S.W. + +At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 7th, being in the latitude of 50° +49' S., we observed several distances of the sun and moon, which gave the +longitude as follows, viz. + +By Mr. Wales, 133° 24' 0" West. + Gilbert, 133 10 0 + Clarke, 133 0 0 + Smith, 133 37 25 + Myself, 133 37 0 + ------------- + Mean, 133 21 43 + + By the Watch, 133 44 0 west. + My reckoning, 133 39 0 + ------------- +Variation of the compass, 6 2 0 East. + thermometer, 50 0 0 + +The next morning we observed again, and the results were agreeable to the +preceding observations, allowing for the ship's run. I must here take +notice, that our longitude can never be erroneous, while we have so good a +guide as Mr Kendall's watch. This day, at noon, we steered E.N.E. 1/2 E., +being then in the latitude of 49° 7' S., longitude 131° 2' W. + +On the 9th, in latitude 48° 17' S., longitude 127° 10' W., we steered east, +with a fine fresh gale at west, attended with clear pleasant weather, and a +great swell from the same direction as the wind. + +In the morning of the 10th, having but little wind, we put a boat in the +water, in which some of the officers went and shot several birds. These +afforded us a fresh meal; they were of the peterel tribe, and such as are +usually seen at any distance from land. Indeed, neither birds, nor any +other thing was to be seen, that could give us the least hopes of finding +any; and, therefore, at noon the next day, being then in the latitude of +47° 51' S., longitude 122° 12' W., and a little more than 200 leagues from +my track to Otaheite in 1769, I altered the course, and steered S.E., with +a fresh gale at S.W. by W. In the evening, when our latitude was 48° 22' +S., longitude 121° 29' W., we found the variation to be 2° 34' E., which is +the least variation we had found without the tropic. In the evening of the +next day, we found it to be 4° 30' E., our latitude, at that time, was 50° +5' S., longitude 119° 1/2 W. + +Our course was now more southerly, till the evening of the 13th, when we +were in the latitude of 53° 0' S., longitude 118° 3' W. The wind being then +at N.W. a strong gale with a thick fog and rain, which made it unsafe to +steer large, I hauled up S.W., and continued this course till noon the next +day, when our latitude was 56° 4' S., longitude 122° 1' W. The wind having +veered to the north, and the fog continuing, I hauled to the east, under +courses and close-reefed top-sails. But this sail we could not carry long; +for before eight o'clock in the evening, the wind increased to a perfect +storm, and obliged us to lie-to, under the mizen-stay-sail, till the +morning of the 16th, when the wind having a good deal abated, and veered to +west, we set the courses, reefed top-sails, and stood to the south. Soon +after, the weather cleared up, and, in the evening, we found the latitude +to be 56° 48' S., longitude 119° 8' W. We continued to steer to the +south, inclining to the east, till the 18th, when we stood to the S.W., +with the wind at S.E., being at this time in the latitude of 61° 9' S., +longitude 116° 7' W. At ten o'clock in the evening, it fell calm, which +continued till two the next morning, when a breeze sprung up at north, +which soon after increased to a fresh gale, and fixed at N.E. With this we +steered south till noon on the 20th, when, being now in the latitude of 62° +34' S., longitude 116° 24' W., we were again becalmed. + +In this situation we had two ice islands in sight, one of which seemed to +be as large as any we had seen. It could not be less than two hundred feet +in height, and terminated in a peak not unlike the cupola of St Paul's +church. At this time we had a great westerly swell, which made it +improbable that any land should lie between us and the meridian of 133° +1/2, which was our longitude, under the latitude we were now in, when we +stood to the north. In all this route we had not seen the least thing that +could induce us to think we were ever in the neighbourhood of any land. We +had, indeed, frequently seen pieces of sea-weed; but this, I am well +assured, is no sign of the vicinity of land; for weed is seen in every part +of the ocean. After a few hours calm, we got a wind from S.E.; but it was +very unsettled, and attended with thick snow-showers; at length it fixed at +S. by E., and we stretched to the east. The wind blew fresh, was piercing +cold, and attended with snow and sleet. On the 22d, being in the latitude +of 62° 5' S., longitude 112° 24' W., we saw an ice island, an antartic +peterel, several blue peterels, and some other known birds; but no one +thing that gave us the least hopes of finding land. + +On the 23d, at noon, we were in the latitude of 62° 22' S., longitude 110° +24'. In the afternoon, we passed an ice island. The wind, which blew fresh, +continued to veer to the west; and at eight o'clock the next morning it was +to the north of west, when I steered S. by W. and S.S.W. At this time we +were in the latitude of 63° 20' S., longitude 108° 7' W., and had a great +sea from S.W. We continued this course till noon the next day, the 25th, +when we steered due south. Our latitude, at this time, was 65° 24' S., +longitude 109° 31' W.; the wind was at north; the weather mild and not +unpleasant; and not a bit of ice in view. This we thought a little +extraordinary, as it was but a month before, and not quite two hundred +leagues to the east, that we were in a manner blocked up with large islands +of ice in this very latitude. Saw a single pintadoe peterel, some blue +peterels, and a few brown albatrosses. In the evening, being under the same +meridian, and in the latitude of 65° 44' S., the variation was 19° 27' E.; +but the next morning, in the latitude of 66° 20' S., longitude the same as +before, it was only 18° 20' E.; probably the mean between the two is the +nearest the truth. At this time, we had nine small islands in sight; and +soon after we came, the third time, within the antartic polar circle, in +the longitude of 109° 31' W. About noon, seeing the appearance of land to +the S.E., we immediately trimmed our sails and stood towards it. Soon after +it disappeared, but we did not give it up till eight o'clock the next +morning, when we were well assured that it was nothing but clouds, or a fog +bank; and then we resumed our course to the south, with a gentle breeze at +N.E., attended with a thick fog, snow, and sleet. + +We now began to meet with ice islands more frequently than before; and, in +the latitude of 69° 38' S., longitude 108° 12' W., we fell in with a field +of loose ice. As we began to be in want of water, I hoisted out two boats +and took up as much as yielded about ten tons. This was cold work, but it +was now familiar to us. As soon as we had done, we hoisted in the boats, +and afterwards made short boards over that part of the sea we had in some +measure made ourselves acquainted with. For we had now so thick a fog, that +we could not see two hundred yards round us; and as we knew not the extent +of the loose ice, I durst not steer to the south till we had clear weather. +Thus we spent the night, or rather that part of twenty-four hours which +answered to night; for we had no darkness but what was occasioned by fogs. + +At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, the fog began to clear away; +and the day becoming clear and serene, we again steered to the south with a +gentle gale at N.E. and N.N.E. The variation was found to be 22° 41' E. +This was in the latitude of 69° 45' S., longitude 108° 5' W.; and, in the +afternoon, being in the same longitude, and in the latitude of 70° 23' S., +it was 24° 31' E. Soon after, the sky became clouded, and the air very +cold. We continued our course to the south, and passed a piece of weed +covered with barnacles, which a brown albatross was picking off. At ten +o'clock, we passed a very large ice island; it was not less than three or +four miles in circuit. Several more being seen a-head, and the weather +becoming foggy, we hauled the wind to the northward; but in less than two +hours, the weather cleared up, and we again stood south. + +On the 30th, at four o'clock in the morning, we perceived the clouds, over +the horizon to the south, to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, which +we knew denounced our approach to field-ice. Soon after, it was seen from +the top-mast-head; and at eight o'clock, we were close to its edge. It +extended east and west, far beyond the reach of our sight. In the situation +we were in, just the southern half of our horizon was illuminated, by the +rays of light reflected from the ice, to a considerable height. Ninety- +seven ice hills were distinctly seen within the field, besides those on the +outside; many of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, +rising one above another till they were lost in the clouds. The outer or +northern edge of this immense field, was composed of loose or broken ice +close packed together, so that it was not possible for any thing to enter +it. This was about a mile broad, within which, was solid ice in one +continued compact body. It was rather low and flat (except the hills), but +seemed to increase in height, as you traced it to the south; in which +direction it extended beyond our sight. Such mountains of ice as these, I +believe, were never seen in the Greenland seas, at least, not that I ever +heard or read of, so that we cannot draw a comparison between the ice here +and there. + +It must be allowed, that these prodigious ice mountains must add such +additional weight to the ice fields which inclose them, as cannot but make +a great difference between the navigating this icy sea and that of +Greenland. + +I will not say it was impossible any where to get farther to the south; but +the attempting it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and +what, I believe, no man in my situation would have thought of. It was, +indeed, _my_ opinion, as well as the opinion of most on board, that +this ice extended quite to the pole, or perhaps joined on some land, to +which it had been fixed from the earliest time; and that it is here, that +is to the south of this parallel, where all the ice we find scattered up +and down to the north, is first formed, and afterwards broken off by gales +of wind, or other causes, and brought to the north by the currents, which +we always found to set in that direction in the high latitudes. As we drew +near this ice some penguins were heard, but none seen; and but few other +birds or any other thing that could induce us to think any land was near. +And yet I think, there must be some to the south behind this ice; but if +there is, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other animals, +than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. I, who had +ambition not only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far as +it was possible for man to go, was not sorry at meeting with this +interruption, as it in some measure relieved us, at least shortened the +dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the southern polar +regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther to the +south, no other reason need be assigned for my tacking and standing back to +the north; being at this time in the latitude of 71° 10' S., longitude 106° +54' W. + +It was happy for us that the weather was clear when we fell in with this +ice, and that we discovered it so soon as we did; for we had no sooner +tacked than we were involved in a thick fog. The wind was at east, and blew +a fresh breeze, so that we were enabled to return back over that space we +had already made ourselves acquainted with. At noon, the mercury in the +thermometer stood at 32-1/2, and we found the air exceedingly cold. The +thick fog continuing with showers of snow, gave a coat of ice to our +rigging of near an inch thick. In the afternoon of the next day the fog +cleared away at intervals; but the weather was cloudy and gloomy, and the +air excessively cold; however, the sea within our horizon was clear of ice. + +1774 February + +We continued to stand to the north, with the wind easterly, till the +afternoon on the first of February, when falling in with some loose ice +which had been broken from an island to windward we hoisted out two boats, +and having taken some on board, resumed our course to the N. and N.E., with +gentle breezes from S.E., attended sometimes with fair weather, and at +other times with snow and sleet. On the 4th we were in the latitude of 65° +42' S., longitude 99° 44'. The next day the wind was very unsettled both in +strength and position, and attended with snow and sleet. At length, on the +6th, after a few hours calm, we got a breeze at south, which soon after +freshened, fixed at W.S.W., and was attended with snow and sleet. + +I now came to the resolution to proceed to the north, and to spend the +ensuing winter within the tropic, if I met with no employment before I came +there. I was now well satisfied no continent was to be found in this ocean, +but what must lie so far to the south, as to be wholly inaccessible on +account of ice; and that if one should be found in the southern Atlantic +Ocean, it would be necessary to have the whole summer before us to explore +it. On the other hand, upon a supposition that there is no land there, we +undoubtedly might have reached the Cape of Good Hope by April, and so have +put an end to the expedition, so far as it related to the finding a +continent; which indeed was the first object of the voyage. But for me at +this time to have quitted the southern Pacific Ocean, with a good ship +expressly sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and not in want either +of stores or of provisions, would have been betraying not only a want of +perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing the south Pacific Ocean to have +been so well explored, that nothing remained to be done in it. This, +however, was not my opinion; for though I had proved that there was no +continent but what must lie far to the south, there remained nevertheless +room for very large islands in places wholly unexamined; and many of those +which were formerly discovered, are but imperfectly explored, and their +situations as imperfectly known. I was besides of opinion, that my +remaining in this sea some time longer, would be productive of improvements +in navigation and geography, as well as in other sciences. I had several +times communicated my thoughts on this subject to Captain Furneaux; but as +it then wholly depended on what we might meet with to the south, I could +not give it in orders, without running a risk of drawing us from the main +object. Since now nothing had happened to prevent me from, carrying these +views into execution, my intention was first to go in search of the land +said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez, above a century ago, in +about the latitude of 38°; if I should fail in finding this land, then to +go in search of Easter Island or Davis's Land, whose situation was known +with so little certainty, that the attempts lately made to find it had +miscarried. I next intended to get within the tropic, and then proceed to +the west, touching at, and settling the situations of such islands as we +might meet with till we arrived at Otaheite, where it was necessary I +should stop to look for the Adventure. I had also thoughts of running as +far west as the Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo, discovered by Quiros, +and which M. de Bougainville calls the Great Cyclades. Quiros speaks of +this land as being large, or lying in the neighbourhood of large lands; and +as this was a point which M. de Bougainville had neither confirmed nor +refuted, I thought it was worth clearing up. From this land my design was +to steer to the south, and so back to the east, between the latitudes of +50° and 60°; intending, if possible, to be the length of Cape Horn in +November next, when we should have the best part of the summer before us to +explore the southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. Great as this design +appeared to be, I however thought it possible to be executed; and when I +came to communicate it to the officers, I had the satisfaction to find, +that they all heartily concurred in it. I should not do these gentlemen +justice, if I did not take some opportunity to declare, that they always +shewed the utmost readiness to carry into execution, in the most effectual +manner, every measure I thought proper to take. Under such circumstances, +it is hardly necessary to say, that the seamen were always obedient and +alert; and, on this occasion, they were so far from wishing the voyage at +an end, that they, rejoiced at the prospect of its being prolonged another +year, and of soon enjoying the benefits of a milder climate. + +I now steered north, inclining to the east, and in the evening we were +overtaken with a furious storm at W.S.W., attended with snow and sleet. It +came so suddenly upon us, that before we could take in our sails, two old +top-sails, which we had bent to the yards, were blown to pieces, and the +other sails much damaged. The gale lasted, without the least intermission, +till the next morning, when it began to abate; it continued, however, to +blow very fresh till noon on the 12th, when it ended in a calm. + +At this time we were in the latitude of 50° 14' S., longitude 95° 18' W. +Some birds being about the ship, we took the advantage of the calm to put a +boat in the water, and shot several birds, on which we feasted the next +day. One of these birds was of that sort which has been so often mentioned +in this journal under the name of Port Egmont hens. They are of the gull +kind, about the size of a raven, with a dark-brown plumage, except the +under-side of each wing, where there are some white feathers. The rest of +the birds were albatrosses and sheer-waters. + +After a few hours calm, having got a breeze at N.W., we made a stretch to +the S.W. for twenty-four hours; in which route we saw a piece of wood, a +bunch of weed, and a diving peterel. The wind having veered more to the +west, made us tack and stretch to the north till noon on the 14th, at which +time we were in the latitude of 49° 32' S., longitude 95° 11' W. We had now +calms and light breezes, succeeding each other, till the next morning, when +the wind freshened at W.N.W., and was attended with a thick fog and +drizzling rain the three following days, during which time we stretched to +the north, inclining to the east, and crossed my track to Otaheite in 1769. +I did intend to have kept more to the west, but the strong winds from that +direction put it out of my power. + +On the 18th, the wind veered to S.W., and blew very fresh, but was attended +with clear weather, which gave us an opportunity to ascertain our longitude +by several lunar observations made by Messrs Wales, Clarke, Gilbert, and +Smith. The mean result of all, was 94° 19' 30" W.; Mr Kendal's watch, at +the same time, gave 94° 46' W.; our latitude was 43° 53' S. The wind +continued not long at S.W. before it veered back to the west and W.N.W. + +As we advanced to the north, we felt a most sensible change in the weather. +The 20th, at noon, we were in the latitude of 39° 58' S., longitude 94° 37' +W. The day was clear and pleasant, and I may say, the only summer's day we +had had since we left New Zealand. The mercury in the thermometer rose to +66. + +We still continued to steer to the north, as the wind remained in the old +quarter; and the next day, at noon, we were in the latitude 37° 54' S.; +which was the same that Juan Fernandez's discovery is said to lie in. We, +however, had not the least signs of any land lying in our neighbourhood. + +The next day at noon, we were in latitude 36° 10' S., longitude 94° 56' W. +Soon after, the wind veered to S.S.E., and enabled us to steer W.S.W., +which I thought the most probable direction to find the land of which we +were in search; and yet I had no hopes of succeeding, as we had a large +hollow swell from the same point. We however continued this course till the +25th, when the wind having veered again round to the westward, I gave it +up, and stood away to the north, in order to get into the latitude of +Easter Island: our latitude, at this time, was 37° 52', longitude 101° 10' +W. + +I was now well assured that the discovery of Juan Fernandez, if any such +was ever made, can be nothing but a small island; there being hardly room +for a large land, as will fully appear by the tracks of Captain Wallis, +Bougainville, of the Endeavour, and this of the Resolution. Whoever wants +to see an account of the discovery in question, will meet with it in Mr +Dalrymple's collection of voyages to the south seas. This gentleman places +it under the meridian of 90°, where I think it cannot be; for M. de +Bougainville seems to have run down under that meridian; and we had now +examined the latitude in which it is said to lie, from the meridian of 94° +to 101°. It is not probable it can lie to the east of 90°; because if it +did, it must have been seen, at one time or other, by ships bound from the +northern to the southern parts of America. Mr Pengré, in a little treatise +concerning the transit of Venus, published in 1768, gives some account of +land having been discovered by the Spaniards in 1714, in the latitude of +38°, and 550 leagues from the coast of Chili, which is in the longitude of +110° or 111° west, and within a degree or two of my track in the Endeavour; +so that this can hardly be its situation. In short, the only probable +situation it can have must be about the meridian of 106° or 108° west; and +then it can only be a small isle, as I have already observed. + +I was now taken ill of the bilious cholic, which was so violent as to +confine me to my bed, so that the management of the ship was left to Mr +Cooper the first officer, who conducted her very much to my satisfaction. +It was several days before the most dangerous symptoms of my disorder were +removed; during which time, Mr Patten the surgeon was to me, not only a +skilful physician, but an affectionate nurse; and I should ill deserve the +care he bestowed on me, if I did not make this public acknowledgment. When +I began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr Forster fell a +sacrifice to my tender stomach. We had no other fresh meat on board, and I +could eat of this flesh, as well as broth made of it, when I could taste +nothing else. Thus I received nourishment and strength from food which +would have made most people in Europe sick: So true it is, that necessity +is governed by no law. + +On the 28th, in the latitude of 33° 7' S., longitude 102° 33' W., we began +to see flying-fish, egg-birds, and nodies, which are said not to go above +sixty or eighty leagues from land; but of this we have no certainty. No one +yet knows to what distance any of the oceanic birds go to sea; for my own +part, I do not believe there is one in the whole tribe that can be relied +on, in pointing out the vicinity of land. + +In the latitude of 30° 30' S., longitude 101° 45' W., we began to see men- +of-war birds. In the latitude of 29° 44', longitude 100° 45' W., we had a +calm for nearly two days together, during which time the heat was +intolerable; but what ought to be remarked, there was a great swell from +the S.W. + +1774 March + +On the 6th of March, the calm was succeeded by an easterly wind, with which +we steered N.W. till noon the 8th, when being in the latitude of 27° 4' S., +longitude 103° 58' W., we steered west; meeting every day with great +numbers of birds, such as men-of-war, tropic, and egg-birds, podies, +sheer-waters, &c. and once we passed several pieces of sponge, and a small +dried leaf not unlike a bay one. Soon after, we saw a sea-snake, in every +respect like those we had before seen at the tropical islands. We also saw +plenty of fish, but we were such bad fishers that we caught only four +albacores, which were very acceptable, to me especially, who was just +recovering from my late illness. + +CHAPTER VII. + +_Sequel of the Passage from New Zealand to Easter Island, and +Transactions there, with an Account of an Expedition to discover the Inland +Part of the Country, and a Description of some of the surprising gigantic +Statues found in the Island._ + +1774 March + +At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 11th, land was seen, from the mast- +head, bearing west, and at noon from the deck, extending from W. 3/4 N. to +W. by S., about twelve leagues distant. I made no doubt that this was +Davis's Land, or Easter Island; as its appearance from this situation, +corresponded very well with Wafer's account; and we expected to have seen +the low sandy isle that Davis fell in with, which would have been a +confirmation; but in this we were disappointed. At seven o'clock in the +evening, the island bore from north 62° W., to north 87° W., about five +leagues distant; in which situation, we sounded without finding ground with +a line of an hundred and forty fathoms. Here we spent the night, having +alternately light airs and calms, till ten o'clock the next morning, when a +breeze sprung up at W.S.W. With this we stretched in for the land; and by +the help of our glass, discovered people, and some of those Colossean +statues or idols mentioned in the account of Roggewein's voyage. At four +o'clock p.m. we were half a league S.S.E. and N.N.W. of the N.E. point of +the island; and, on sounding, found thirty-five fathoms, a dark sandy +bottom. I now tacked, and endeavoured to get into what appeared to be a +bay, on the west side of the point or S.E. side of the island; but before +this could be accomplished, night came upon us, and we stood on and off, +under the land, till the next morning; having sounding from seventy-five to +an hundred and ten fathoms, the same bottom as before. + +On the 13th, about eight o'clock in the morning, the wind, which had been +variable most part of the night, fixed at S.E., and blew in squalls, +accompanied with rain; but it was not long before the weather became fair. +As the wind now blew right to the S.E. shore, which does not afford that +shelter I at first thought, I resolved to look for anchorage on the west +and N.W. sides of the island. With this view I bore up round the south +point, off which lie two small islets, the one nearest the point high and +peaked, and the other low and flattish. After getting round the point, and +coming before a sandy beach, we found soundings thirty and forty fathoms, +sandy ground, and about one mile from the shore. Here a canoe, conducted by +two men, came off to us. They brought with them a bunch of plantains, which +they sent into the ship by a rope, and then they returned ashore. This gave +us a good opinion of the islanders, and inspired us with hopes of getting +some refreshments, which we were in great want of. + +I continued to range along the coast, till we opened the northern point of +the isle, without seeing a better anchoring-place than the one we had +passed. We therefore tacked, and plied back to it; and, in the mean time, +sent away the master in a boat to sound the coast. He returned about five +o'clock in the evening; and soon after we came to an anchor in thirty-six +fathoms water, before the sandy beach above mentioned. As the master drew +near the shore with the boat, one of the natives swam off to her, and +insisted on coming a-board the ship, where he remained two nights and a +day. The first thing he did after coming a-board, was to measure the length +of the ship, by fathoming her from the tafferel to the stern, and as he +counted the fathoms, we observed that he called the numbers by the same +names that they do at Otaheite; nevertheless his language was in a manner +wholly unintelligible to all of us. + +Having anchored too near the edge of a bank, a fresh breeze from the land, +about three o'clock the next morning, drove us off it; on which the anchor +was heaved up, and sail made to regain the bank again. While the ship was +plying in, I went ashore, accompanied by some of the gentlemen, to see what +the island was likely to afford us. We landed at the sandy beach, where +some hundreds of the natives were assembled, and who were so impatient to +see us, that many of them swam off to meet the boats. Not one of them had +so much as a stick or weapon of any sort in their hands. After distributing +a few trinkets amongst them, we made signs for something to eat, on which +they brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar canes, and exchanged +them for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces of cloth. + +We presently discovered that they were as expert thieves and as tricking in +their exchanges, as any people we had yet met with. It was with some +difficulty we could keep the hats on our heads; but hardly possible to keep +any thing in our pockets, not even what themselves had sold us; for they +would watch every opportunity to snatch it from us, so that we sometimes +bought the same thing two or three times over, and after all did not get +it. + +Before I sailed from England, I was informed that a Spanish ship had +visited this isle in 1769. Some signs of it were seen among the people now +about us; one man had a pretty good broad-brimmed European hat on, another +had a grego jacket, and another a red silk handkerchief. They also seemed +to know the use of a musquet, and to stand in much awe of it; but this they +probably learnt from Roggewein, who, if we are to believe the authors of +that voyage, left them sufficient tokens. + +Near the place where we landed, were some of those statues before +mentioned, which I shall describe in another place. The country appeared +barren and without wood; there were, nevertheless, several plantations of +potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes; we also saw some fowls, and found a +well of brackish water. As these were articles we were in want of, and as +the natives seemed not unwilling to part with them, I resolved to stay a +day or two. With this view I repaired on board, and brought the ship to an +anchor in thirty-two fathoms water; the bottom a fine dark sand. Our +station was about a mile from the nearest shore, the south point of a small +bay, in the bottom of which is the sandy beach before mentioned, being +E.S.E., distant one mile and a-half. The two rocky islets lying off the +south point of the island, were just shut behind a point to the north of +them; they bore south 3/4 west, four miles distant; and the other extreme +of the island bore north 25° E., distant about six miles. But the best mark +for this anchoring-place is the beach, because it is the only one on this +side of the island. In the afternoon, we got on board a few casks of water, +and opened a trade with the natives for such things as they had to dispose +of. Some of the gentlemen also made an excursion into the country to see +what it produced; and returned again in the evening, with the loss only of +a hat, which one of the natives snatched off the head of one of the +party. + +Early next morning, I sent Lieutenants Pickersgill and Edgecumbe with a +party of men, accompanied by several of the gentlemen, to examine the +country. As I was not sufficiently recovered from my late illness to make +one of the party, I was obliged to content myself with remaining at the +landing-place among the natives. We had, at one time, a pretty brisk trade +with them for potatoes, which we observed they dug up out of an adjoining +plantation; but this traffic, which was very advantageous to us, was soon +put a stop to by the owner (as we supposed) of the plantation coming down, +and driving all the people out of it. By this we concluded, that he had +been robbed of his property, and that they were not less scrupulous of +stealing from one another, than from us, on whom they practised every +little fraud they could think of, and generally with success; for we no +sooner detected them in one, than they found out another. About seven +o'clock in the evening, the party I had sent into the country returned, +after having been over the greatest part of the island. + +They left the beach about nine o'clock in the morning, and took a path +which led across to the S.E. side of the island, followed by a great crowd +of the natives, who pressed much upon them. But they had not proceeded far, +before a middle-aged man, punctured from head to foot, and his face painted +with a sort of white pigment, appeared with a spear in his hand, and walked +along-side of them, making signs to his countrymen to keep at a distance, +and not to molest our people. When he had pretty well effected this, he +hoisted a piece of white cloth on his spear, placed himself in the front, +and led the way, with his ensign of peace, as they understood it to be. For +the greatest part of the distance across, the ground had but a barren +appearance, being a dry hard clay, and every where covered with stones; but +notwithstanding this, there were several large tracts planted with +potatoes; and some plantain walks, but they saw no fruit on any of the +trees. Towards the highest part of the south end of the island, the soil, +which was a fine red earth, seemed much better, bore a longer grass, and +was not covered with stones as in the other parts; but here they saw +neither house nor plantation. + +On the east side, near the sea, they met with three platforms of stone- +work, or rather the ruins of them. On each had stood four of those large +statues, but they were all fallen down from two of them, and also one from +the third; all except one were broken by the fall, or in some measure +defaced. Mr Wales measured this one, and found it to be fifteen feet in +length, and six feet broad over the shoulders, Each statue had on its head +a large cylindric stone of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The one +they measured, which was not by far the largest, was fifty-two inches high, +and sixty-six in diameter. In some, the upper corner of the cylinder was +taken off in a sort of concave quarter-round, but in others the cylinder +was entire. + +From this place they followed the direction of the coast to the N.E., the +man with the flag still leading the way. For about three miles they found +the country very barren, and in some places stript of the soil to the bare +rock, which seemed to be a poor sort of iron ore. Beyond this, they came to +the most fertile part of the island they saw, it being interspersed with +plantations of potatoes, sugar-canes, and plantain trees, and these not so +much encumbered with stones as those which they had seen before; but they +could find no water except what the natives twice or thrice brought them, +which, though brackish and stinking, was rendered acceptable, by the +extremity of their thirst. They also passed some huts, the owners of which +met them with roasted potatoes and sugar-canes, and, placing themselves a- +head of the foremost party (for they marched in a line in order to have the +benefit of the path), gave one to each man as he passed by. They observed +the same method in distributing the water which they brought; and were +particularly careful that the foremost did not drink too much, lest none +should be left for the hindmost. But at the very time these were relieving +the thirsty and hungry, there were not wanting others who endeavoured to +steal from them the very things which had been given them. At last, to +prevent worse consequences, they were obliged to fire a load of small shot +at one who was so audacious as to snatch from one of the men the bag which +contained every thing they carried with them. The shot hit him on the back, +on which he dropped the bag, ran a little way, and then fell; but he +afterwards got up and walked, and what became of him they knew not, nor +whether he was much wounded. As this affair occasioned some delay, and drew +the natives together, they presently saw the man who had hitherto led the +way and one or two more, coming running towards them; but instead of +stopping when they came up, they continued to run round them, repeating, in +a kind manner, a few words, until our people set forwards again. Then their +old guide hoisted his flag, leading the way as before, and none ever +attempted to steal from them the whole day afterwards. As they passed +along, they observed on a hill a number of people collected together, some +of whom had spears in their hands; but on their being called to by their +countrymen, they dispersed, except a few, amongst whom was one seemingly of +some note. He was a stout well-made man, with a fine open countenance, his +face was painted, his body punctured, and he wore a better _Ha hou_, +or cloth, than the rest. He saluted them as he came up, by stretching out +his arms, with both hands clenched, lifting them over his head, opening +them wide, and then letting them fall gradually down to his sides. To this +man, whom they understood to be chief of the island, their other friend +gave his white flag, and he gave him another, who carried it before them +the remainder of the day. + +Towards the eastern end of the island, they met with a well whose water was +perfectly fresh, being considerably above the level of the sea; but it was +dirty, owing to the filthiness or cleanliness (call it which you will) of +the natives, who never go to drink without washing themselves all over as +soon as they have done; and if ever so many of them are together, the first +leaps right into the middle of the hole, drinks, and washes himself without +the least ceremony; after which another takes his place and does the same. + +They observed that this side of the island was full of those gigantic +statues so often mentioned; some placed in groupes on platforms of masonry, +others single, fixed only in the earth, and that not deep; and these latter +are, in general, much larger than the others. Having measured one, which +had fallen down, they found it very near twenty-seven feet long, and +upwards of eight feet over the breast or shoulders; and yet this appeared +considerably short of the size of one they saw standing; its shade, a +little past two o'clock, being sufficient to shelter all the party, +consisting of near thirty persons, from the rays of the sun. Here they +stopped to dine; after which they repaired to a hill, from whence they saw +all the east and north shores of the isle, on which they could not see +either bay or creek fit even for a boat to land in; nor the least signs of +fresh water. What the natives brought them here was real salt water; but +they observed that some of them drank pretty plentifully of it, so far will +necessity and custom get the better of nature! On this account they were +obliged to return to the last-mentioned well, where, after having quenched +their thirst, they directed their route across the island towards the ship, +as it was now four o'clock. + +In a small hollow, on the highest part of the island, they met with several +such cylinders as are placed on the heads of the statues. Some of these +appeared larger than any they had seen before; but it was now too late to +stop to measure any of them. Mr Wales, from whom I had this information, is +of opinion that there had been a quarry here, whence these stones had +formerly been dug; and that it would have been no difficult matter to roll +them down the hill after they were formed. I think this a very reasonable +conjecture, and have no doubt that it has been so. + +On the declivity of the mountain towards the west, they met with another +well, but the water was a very strong mineral, had a thick green scum on +the top, and stunk intolerably. Necessity, however, obliged some to drink +of it; but it soon made them so sick, that they threw it up the same way +that it went down. + +In all this excursion, as well as the one made the preceding day, only two +or three shrubs were seen. The leaf and seed of one (called by the natives +_Torromedo_) were not much unlike those of the common vetch; but the +pod was more like that of a tamarind in its size and shape. The seeds have +a disagreeable bitter taste; and the natives, when they saw our people chew +them, made signs to spit them out; from whence it was concluded that they +think them poisonous. The wood is of a reddish colour, and pretty hard and +heavy, but very crooked, small, and short, not exceeding six or seven feet +in height. At the S.W. corner of the island, they found another small +shrub, whose wood was white and brittle, and in some measure, as also its +leaf, resembling the ash. They also saw in several places the Otaheitean +cloth plant, but it was poor and weak, and not above two and a half feet +high at most. + +They saw not an animal of any sort, and but very few birds; nor indeed any +thing which can induce ships that are not in the utmost distress, to touch +at this island. + +This account of the excursion I had from Mr Pickersgill and Mr Wales, men +on whose veracity I could depend; and therefore I determined to leave the +island the next morning, since nothing was to be obtained that could make +it worth my while to stay longer; for the water which we had sent on board, +was not much better than if it had been taken up out of the sea. + +We had a calm till ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, when a breeze +sprung up at west, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, which lasted +about an hour. The weather then clearing up, we got under sail, stood to +sea, and kept plying to and fro, while an officer was sent on shore with +two boats, to purchase such refreshments as the natives might have brought +down; for I judged this would be the case, as they knew nothing of our +sailing. The event proved that I was not mistaken; for the boats made two +trips before night, when we hoisted them in, and made sail to the N.W., +with a light breeze at N.N.E. + +CHAPTER VIII. + +_A Description of the Island, and its Produce, Situation, and +Inhabitants; their Manners and Customs; Conjectures concerning their +Government, Religion, and other Subjects; with a more particular Account of +the gigantic Statues._ + +1774 March + +I shall now give some farther account of this island, which is undoubtedly +the same that Admiral Roggewein touched at in April 1722; although the +description given of it by the authors of that voyage does by no means +agree with it now. It may also be the same that was seen by Captain Davis +in 1686; for, when seen from the east, it answers very well to Wafer's +description, as I have before observed. In short, if this is not the land, +his discovery cannot lie far from the coast of America, as this latitude +has been well explored from the meridian of 80° to 110°. Captain Carteret +carried it much farther; but his track seems to have been a little too far +south. Had I found fresh water, I intended spending some days in looking +for the low sandy isle Davis fell in with, which would have determined the +point. But as I did not find water, and had a long run to make before I was +assured of getting any, and being in want of refreshments, I declined the +search; as a small delay might have been attended with bad consequences to +the crew, many of them beginning to be more or less affected with the +scurvy. + +No nation need contend for the honour of the discovery of this island, as +there can be few places which afford less convenience for shipping than it +does. Here is no safe anchorage, no wood for fuel, nor any fresh water +worth taking on board. Nature has been exceedingly sparing of her favours +to this spot. As every thing must be raised by dint of labour, it cannot be +supposed that the inhabitants plant much more than is sufficient for +themselves; and as they are but few in number, they cannot have much to +spare to supply the wants of visitant strangers. The produce is sweet +potatoes, yams, tara or eddy root, plantains, and sugar-canes, all pretty +good, the potatoes especially, which are the best of the kind I ever +tasted. Gourds they have also, but so very few, that a cocoa-nut shell was +the most valuable thing we could give them. They have a few tame fowls, +such as cocks and hens, small but well tasted. They have also rats, which +it seems they eat; for I saw a man with some dead ones in his hand, and he +seemed unwilling to part with them, giving me to understand they were for +food. Of land-birds there were hardly any, and sea-birds but few; these +were men-of-war, tropic, and egg-birds, noddies, tern, &c. The coast seemed +not to abound with fish, at least we could catch none with hook and line, +and it was but very little we saw among the natives. + +Such is the produce of Easter Island, or Davis's Land, which is situated in +latitude 27° 5' 30" S., longitude 109° 46' 20" W. It is about ten or twelve +leagues in circuit, hath a hilly and stony surface, and an iron-bound +shore. The hills are of such a height as to be seen fifteen or sixteen +leagues. Off the south end, are two rocky islets, lying near the shore. The +north and east points of the island rise directly from the sea to a +considerable height; between them and the S.E. side, the shore forms an +open bay, in which I believe the Dutch anchored. We anchored, as hath been +already mentioned, on the west side of the island, three miles to the north +of the south point, with the sandy beach bearing E.S.S. This is a very good +road with easterly winds, but a dangerous one with westerly; as the other +on the S.E. side must be with easterly winds. + +For this, and other bad accommodations already mentioned, nothing but +necessity will induce any one to touch at this isle, unless it can be done +without going much out of the way; in which case, touching here may be +advantageous, as the people willingly and readily part with such +refreshments as they have, and at an easy rate. We certainly received great +benefit from the little we got; but few ships can come here without being +in want of water, and this want cannot be here supplied. The little we took +on board, could not be made use of, it being only salt water which had +filtered through a stony beach into a stone well; this the natives had made +for the purpose, a little to the southward of the sandy beach so often +mentioned, and the water ebbed and flowed into it with the tide. + +The inhabitants of this island do not seem to exceed six or seven hundred +souls, and above two-thirds of those we saw were males. They either have +but few females amongst them, or else many were restrained from making +their appearance during our stay, for though we saw nothing to induce us to +believe the men were of a jealous disposition, or the women afraid to +appear in public, something of this kind was probably the case. + +In colour, features, and language, they bear such an affinity to the people +of the more western isles, that no one will doubt they have had the same +origin. It is extraordinary that the same nation should have spread +themselves over all the isles in this vast ocean, from New Zealand to this +island, which is almost one-fourth part of the circumference of the globe. +Many of them have now no other knowledge of each other, than what is +preserved by antiquated tradition; and they have, by length of time, +become, as it were, different nations, each having adopted some peculiar +custom or habit, &c. Nevertheless, a careful observer will soon see the +affinity each has to the other. In general, the people of this isle are a +slender race. I did not see a man that would measure six feet; so far are +they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's voyage +asserts. They are brisk and active, have good features, and not +disagreeable countenances; are friendly and hospitable to strangers, but as +much addicted to pilfering as any of their neighbours. + +_Tattowing_, or puncturing the skin, is much used here. The men are +marked from head to foot, with figures all nearly alike; only some give +them one direction, and some another, as fancy leads. The women are but +little punctured; red and white paint is an ornament with _them_, as +also with the men; the former is made of turmeric, but what composes the +latter I know not. + +Their clothing is a piece or two of quilted cloth, about six feet by four, +or a mat. One piece wrapped round their loins, and another over their +shoulders, make a complete dress. But the men, for the most part, are in a +manner naked, wearing nothing but a slip of cloth betwixt their legs, each +end of which is fastened to a cord or belt they wear round the waist. Their +cloth is made of the same materials as at Otaheite, viz. of the bark of the +cloth-plant; but, as they have but little of it, our Otaheitean cloth, or +indeed any sort of it, came here to a good market. + +Their hair in general is black; the women wear it long, and sometimes tied +up on the crown of the head; but the men wear it, and their beards, cropped +short. Their headdress is a round fillet adorned with feathers, and a straw +bonnet something like a Scotch one; the former, I believe, being chiefly +worn by the men, and the latter by the women. Both men and women have very +large holes, or rather slits, in their ears, extending to near three inches +in length. They sometimes turn this slit over the upper part, and then the +ear looks as if the flap was cut off. The chief ear-ornaments are the white +down of feathers, and rings, which they wear in the inside of the hole, +made of some elastic substance, rolled up like a watch-spring. I judged +this was to keep the hole at its utmost extension. I do not remember seeing +them wear any other ornaments, excepting amulets made of bone or shells. + +As harmless and friendly as these people seemed to be, they are not without +offensive weapons, such as short wooden clubs and spears; the latter of +which are crooked sticks about six feet long, armed at one end with pieces +of flint. They have also a weapon made of wood, like the _Patoo patoo_ +of New Zealand. + +Their houses are low miserable huts, constructed by setting sticks upright +in the ground, at six or eight feet distance, then bending them towards +each other, and tying them together at the top, forming thereby a kind of +Gothic arch. The longest sticks are placed in the middle, and shorter ones +each way, and a less distance asunder, by which means the building is +highest and broadest in the middle, and lower and narrower towards each +end. To these are tied others horizontally, and the whole is thatched over +with leaves of sugar-cane. The door-way is in the middle of one side, +formed like a porch, and so low and narrow, as just to admit a man to enter +upon all fours. The largest house I saw was about sixty feet long, eight or +nine feet high in the middle, and three or four at each end; its breadth, +at these parts, was nearly equal to its height. Some have a kind of vaulted +houses built with stone, and partly under ground; but I never was in one of +these. + +I saw no household utensils among them, except gourds, and of these but +very few. They were extravagantly fond of cocoa-nut shells, more so than of +any thing we could give them. They dress their victuals in the same manner +as at Otaheite; that is, with hot stones in an oven or hole in the ground. +The straw or tops of sugar-cane, plantain heads, &c. serve them for fuel to +heat the stones. Plantains, which require but little dressing, they roast +under fires of straw, dried grass, &c. and whole races of them are ripened +or roasted in this manner. We frequently saw ten or a dozen, or more, such +fires in one place, and most commonly in the mornings and evenings. + +Not more than three or four canoes were seen on the whole island, and these +very mean, and built of many pieces sewed together with small line. They +are about eighteen or twenty feet long, head and stem carved or raised a +little, are very narrow, and fitted with out-riggers. They do not seem +capable of carrying above four persons, and are by no means fit for any +distant navigation. As small and mean as these canoes were, it was a matter +of wonder to us, where they got the wood to build them with; for in one of +them was a board six or eight feet long, fourteen inches broad at one end, +and eight at the other; whereas we did not see a stick on the island that +would have made a board half this size, nor, indeed, was there another +piece in the whole canoe half so big. + +There are two ways by which it is possible they may have got this large +wood; it might have been left here by the Spaniards, or it might have been +driven on the shore of the island from some distant land. It is even +possible that there may be some land in the neighbourhood, from whence they +might have got it. We, however, saw no signs of any, nor could we get the +least information on this head from the natives, although we tried every +method we could think of to obtain it. We were almost as unfortunate in our +enquiries for the proper or native name of the island; for, on comparing +notes, I found we had got three different names for it, viz. Tamareki, +Whyhu, and Teapy. Without pretending to say which, or whether any of them +is right, I shall only observe, that the last was obtained by Oedidee, who +understood their language much better than any of us, though even he +understood it but very imperfectly. + +It appears by the account of Roggewein's voyage, that these people had no +better vessels than when he first visited them. The want of materials, and +not of genius, seems to be the reason why they have made no improvement in +this art. Some pieces of carving were found amongst them, both well +designed and executed. Their plantations are prettily laid out by line, +but not inclosed by any fence; indeed they have nothing for this purpose +but stones. + +I have no doubt that all these plantations are private property, and that +there are here, as at Otaheite, chiefs (which they call _Areekes_) to +whom these plantations belong. But of the power or authority of these +chiefs, or of the government of these people, I confess myself quite +ignorant. + +Nor are we better acquainted with their religion. The gigantic statues, so +often mentioned, are not, in my opinion, looked upon as idols by the +present inhabitants, whatever they might have been in the days of the +Dutch; at least I saw nothing that could induce me to think so. On the +contrary, I rather suppose that they are burying-places for certain tribes +or families. I, as well as some others, saw a human skeleton lying in one +of the platforms, just covered with stones. Some of these platforms of +masonry are thirty or forty feet long, twelve or sixteen broad, and from +three to twelve in height; which last in some measure depends on the nature +of the ground; for they are generally at the brink of the bank facing the +sea, so that this face may be ten or twelve feet or more high, and the +other may not be above three or four. They are built, or rather faced, with +hewn stones, of a very large size; and the workmanship is not inferior to +the best plain piece of masonry we have in England. They use no sort of +cement, yet the joints are exceedingly close, and the stones morticed and +tenanted one into another, in a very artful manner. The side-walls are not +perpendicular, but inclining a little inwards, in the same manner that +breast-works, &c. are built in Europe; yet had not all this care, pains, +and sagacity, been able to preserve these curious structures from the +ravages of all-devouring time. + +The statues, or at least many of them, are erected on these platforms, +which serve as foundations. They are, as near as we could judge, about half +length, ending in a sort of stump at the bottom, on which they stand. The +workmanship is rude, but not bad; nor are the features of the face ill +formed, the nose and chin in particular; but the ears are long beyond +proportion; and, as to the bodies, there is hardly any thing like a human +figure about them. + +I had an opportunity of examining only two or three of these statues, which +are near the landing-place; and they were of a grey stone, seemingly of the +same sort as that with which the platforms were built. But some of the +gentlemen, who travelled over the island, and examined many of them, were +of opinion that the stone of which they were made, was different from any +they saw on the island, and had much the appearance of being factitious. We +could hardly conceive how these islanders, wholly unacquainted with any +mechanical power, could raise such stupendous figures, and afterwards place +the large cylindric stones before mentioned upon their heads. The only +method I can conceive, is by raising the upper end by little and little, +supporting it by stones as it is raised, and building about it till they +got it erect; thus a sort of mount or scaffolding would be made, upon which +they might roll the cylinder, and place it upon the head of the statue, and +then the stones might be removed from about it. But if the stones are +factitious, the statues might have been put together on the place, in their +present position, and the cylinder put on by building a mount round them, +as above mentioned. But, let them have been made and set up by this or any +other method, they must have been a work of immense time, and sufficiently +shew the ingenuity and perseverance of these islanders in the age in which +they were built; for the present inhabitants have most certainly had no +hand in them, as they do not even repair the foundations of those which are +going to decay. They give different names to them, such as Gotomoara, +Marapate, Kanaro, Goway-too-goo, Matta Matta, &c. &c. to which they +sometimes prefix the word Moi, and sometimes annex Areeke. The latter +signifies chief, and the former burying, or sleeping-place, as well as we +could understand. + +Besides the monuments of antiquity, which were pretty numerous, and no +where but on or near the sea-coast, there were many little heaps of stones, +piled up in different places along the coast. Two or three of the uppermost +stones in each pile were generally white, perhaps always so, when the pile +is complete. It will hardly be doubted that these piles of stone had a +meaning; probably they might mark the place where people had been buried, +and serve instead of the large statues. + +The working-tools of these people are but very mean, and, like those of all +the other islanders we have visited in this ocean, made of stone, bone, +shells, &c. They set but little value on iron or iron tools, which is the +more extraordinary, as they know their use; but the reason may be, their +having but little occasion for them. + +CHAPTER IX. + +_The Passage from Easter Island to the Marquesas Islands. Transactions +and Incidents which happened while the Ship lay in Madre de Dios, or +Resolution Bay, in the Island of St Christina._ + +1774 March + +After leaving Easter Island, I steered N.W. by N. and N.N.W., with a fine +easterly gale, intending to touch at the Marquesas, if I met with nothing +before I got there. We had not been long at sea, before the bilious +disorder made another attack upon me, but not so violent as the former. I +believe this second visit was owing to exposing and fatiguing myself too +much at Easter Island. + +On the 22d, being in the latitude of 19° 20' S., longitude 114° 49' W., +steered N.W. Since leaving Easter Island, the variation had not been more +than 3° 4', nor less than 2° 32' E.; but on the 26th, at six a.m., in +latitude 15° 7' S., longitude 119° 45' W., it was no more than 1° 1' E.; +after which it began to increase. + +On the 29th, being in the latitude of 10° 20', longitude 123° 58' W., +altered the course to W.N.W., and the next day to west, being then in +latitude 9° 24', which I judged to be the parallel of Marquesas; where, as +I have before observed, I intended to touch, in order to settle their +situation, which I find different in different charts. Having now a steady +settled trade-wind, and pleasant weather, I ordered the forge to be set up, +to repair and make various necessary articles in the iron way; and the +caulkers had already been some time at work caulking the decks, weather- +works, &c. + +1774 April + +As we advanced to the west, we found the variation to increase but slowly; +for, on the 3d of April, it was only 4° 40' E., being then in the latitude +of 9° 32', longitude 132° 45', by observation made at the same time. + +I continued to steer to the west till the 6th, at four in the afternoon, at +which time, being in the latitude of 9° 20', longitude 138° 14' W., we +discovered an island, bearing west by south, distant about nine leagues. +Two hours after we saw another, bearing S.W. by S., which appeared more +extensive than the former. I hauled up for this island, and ran under an +easy sail all night, having squally unsettled rainy weather, which is not +very uncommon in this sea, when near high land. At six o'clock the next +morning, the first island bore N.W., the second S.W. 1/2 W., and a third W. +I gave orders to steer for the separation between the two last; and soon +after, a fourth was seen, still more to the west. By this time, we were +well assured that these were the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595. +The first isle was a new discovery, which I named Hood's Island, after the +young gentleman who first saw it, the second was that of Saint Pedro, the +third La Dominica, and the fourth St Christina. We ranged the S.E..coast of +La Dominica, without seeing the least signs of anchorage, till we came to +the channel that divides it from St Christina, through which we passed, +hauled over for the last-mentioned island, and ran along the coast to the +S.W. in search of Mendana's Port. We passed several coves in which there +seemed to be anchorage; but a great surf broke on all the shores. Some +canoes put off from these places, and followed us down the coast. + +At length, having come before the port we were in search of, we attempted +to turn into it, the wind being right out; but as it blew in violent +squalls from this high land, one of these took us just after we had put in +stays, payed the ship off again, and before she wore round, she was within +a few yards of being driven against the rocks to leeward. This obliged us +to stand out to sea, and to make a stretch to windward; after which we +stood in again, and without attempting to turn, anchored in the entrance of +the bay in thirty-four fathoms water, a fine sandy bottom. This was no +sooner done, than about thirty or forty of the natives came off to us in +ten or twelve canoes; but it required some address to get them alongside. +At last a hatchet, and some spike-nails, induced the people in one canoe to +come under the quarter-gallery; after which, all the others put alongside, +and having exchanged some breadfruit and fish for small nails, &c. retired +ashore, the sun being already set. We observed a heap of stones on the bow +of each canoe, and every man to have a sling tied round his hand. + +Very early next morning, the natives visited us again in much greater +numbers than before; bringing with them bread-fruit, plantains, and one +pig, all of which they exchanged for nails, &c. But in this traffic they +would frequently keep our goods, and make no return, till at last I was +obliged to fire a musket-ball over one man who had several times served us +in this manner; after which they dealt more fairly; and soon after several +of them came on board. At this time we were preparing to warp farther into +the bay, and I was going in a boat, to look for the most convenient place +to moor the ship in. Observing too many of the natives on board, I said to +the officers, "You must look well after these people, or they will +certainly carry off something or other." I had hardly got into the boat, +before I was told they had stolen one of the iron stanchions from the +opposite gang-way, and were making off with it. I ordered them to fire over +the canoe till I could get round in the boat, but not to kill any one. But +the natives made too much noise for me to be heard, and the unhappy thief +was killed at the third shot. Two others in the same canoe leaped +overboard, but got in again just as I came to them. The stanchion they had +thrown over board. One of them, a man grown, sat bailing the blood and +water out of the canoe, in a kind of hysteric laugh; the other, a youth +about fourteen or fifteen years of age, looked on the deceased with a +serious and dejected countenance; we had afterwards reason to believe he +was his son. + +At this unhappy accident, all the natives retired with precipitation. I +followed them into the bay, and prevailed upon the people in one canoe to +come alongside the boat, and receive some nails, and other things, which I +gave them; this in some measure allayed their fears. Having taken a view of +the bay, and found that fresh water, which we most wanted, was to be had, I +returned on board, and carried out a kedge-anchor with three hawsers upon +an end, to warp the ship in by, and hove short on the bower. One would have +thought that the natives, by this time, would have been so sensible of the +effect of our fire-arms, as not to have provoked us to fire upon them any +more, but the event proved otherwise; for the boat had no sooner left the +kedge-anchor, than two men in a canoe put off from the shore, took hold of +the buoy rope, and attempted to drag it ashore, little considering what was +fast to it. Lest, after discovering their mistake, they should take away +the buoy, I ordered a musket to be fired at them; the ball fell short, and +they took not the least notice of it; but a second having passed over them, +they let go the buoy, and made for the shore. This was the last shot we had +occasion to fire at any of them, while we lay at this place. It probably +had more effect than killing the man, by shewing them that they were not +safe at any distance; at least we had reason to think so, for they +afterwards stood in great dread of the musket. Nevertheless, they would +very often be exercising their talent of thieving upon us, which I thought +proper to put up with, as our stay was not likely to be long amongst them. +The trouble these people gave us retarded us so long, that, before we were +ready to heave the anchor, the wind began to increase, and blew in squalls +out of the bay, so that we were obliged to lie fast. It was not long before +the natives ventured off to us again. In the first canoe which came, was a +man who seemed to be of some consequence; he advanced slowly, with a pig on +his shoulder, and speaking something which we did not understand. As soon +as he got alongside, I made him a present of a hatchet and several other +articles: In return, he sent in his pig; and was at last prevailed upon to +come himself up to the gang-way, where he made but a short stay. The +reception this man met with, induced the people in all the other canoes to +put alongside; and exchanges were presently reestablished. + +Matters being thus settled on board, I went on shore with a party of men, +to see what was to be done there. We were received by the natives with +great courtesy; and, as if nothing had happened, trafficked with them for +some fruit and a few small pigs; and after loading the launch with water, +returned aboard. After dinner I sent the boats ashore for water, under the +protection of a guard; on their landing, the natives all fled but one man, +and he seemed much frightened; afterwards one or two more came down, and +these were all that were seen this afternoon. We could not conceive the +reason of this sudden fright. + +Early in the morning of the 9th, the boats were sent as usual for water; +and just as they were coming off, but not before, some of the natives made +their appearance. After breakfast I landed some little time before the +guard, when the natives crowded round me in great numbers; but as soon as +the guard landed, I had enough to do to keep them from running off: At +length their fears vanished, and a trade was opened for fruit and pigs. I +believe the reason of the natives flying from our people the day before, +was their not seeing me at the head of them; for they certainly would have +done the same to-day, had I not been present. About noon, a chief of some +consequence, attended by a great number of people, came down to the +landing-place. I presented him with such articles as I had with me, and, in +return, he gave me some of his ornaments. After these mutual exchanges, a +good understanding seemed to be established between us; so that we got by +exchanges as much fruit as loaded two boats, with which we returned on +board to dinner; but could not prevail on the chief to accompany us. + +In the afternoon, the watering and trading parties were sent on shore, +though the latter got but little, as most of the natives had retired into +the country. A party of us went to the other, or southern cove of the bay, +where I procured five pigs, and came to the house which, we were told, did +belong to the man we had killed. He must have been a person of some note, +as there were six pigs in and about his house, which we were told belonged +to his son, who fled on our approach. I wanted much to have seen him, to +make him a present, and, by other kind treatment, to convince him and the +others that it was not from any bad design against the nation, that we had +killed his father. It would have been to little purpose if I had left any +thing in the house, as it certainly would have been taken by others; +especially as I could not sufficiently explain to them my meaning. Strict +honesty was seldom observed when the property of our things came to be +disputed. I saw a striking instance of this in the morning, when I was +going ashore. A man in a canoe offered me a small pig for a six-inch spike, +and another man being employed to convey it, I gave him the spike, which he +kept for himself, and instead of it, gave to the man who owned the pig a +sixpenny nail. Words of course arose, and I waited to see how it would end; +but as the man who had possession of the spike seemed resolved to keep it, +I left them before it was decided. In the evening we returned on board with +what refreshments we had collected, and thought we had made a good day's +work. + +On the 10th, early in the morning, some people from more distant parts came +in canoes alongside, and sold us some pigs; so that we had now sufficient +to give the crew a fresh meal. They were, in general, so small, that forty +or fifty were hardly sufficient for this purpose. The trade on shore for +fruit was as brisk as ever. After dinner, I made a little expedition in my +boat along the coast to the south-ward, accompanied by some of the +gentlemen: At the different places we touched at, we collected eighteen +pigs; and I believe, might have got more. The people were exceedingly +obliging wherever we landed, and readily brought down whatever we +desired. + +Next morning I went down to the same place where we had been the preceding +evening; but instead of getting pigs, as I expected, found the scene quite +changed. The nails and other things they were mad after but the evening +before, they now despised, and instead of them wanted they did not know +what; so that I was obliged to return, with three or four little pigs, +which cost more than a dozen did the day before. When I got on board, I +found the same change had happened there, as also at the trading place on +shore. The reason was, several of the young gentlemen having landed the +preceding day, had given away in exchange various articles which the people +had not seen before, and which took with them more than nails or more +useful iron tools. But what ruined our market the most, was one of them +giving for a pig a very large quantity of red feathers he had got at +Amsterdam. None of us knew at this time, that this article was in such +estimation here; and, if I had known it, I could not have supported the +trade, in the manner it was begun, one day. Thus was our fine prospect of +getting a plentiful supply of refreshments from these people frustrated; +which will ever be the case so long as every one is allowed to make +exchanges for what he pleases, and in what manner be pleases. When I found +this island was not likely to supply us, on any conditions, with sufficient +refreshments, such as we might expect to find at the Society Isles, nor +very convenient for taking in wood and water, nor for giving the ship the +necessary repairs she wanted, I resolved forthwith to leave it, and proceed +to some other place, where our wants might be effectually relieved. For +after having been nineteen weeks at sea, and living all the time upon salt +diet, we could not but want some refreshments; although I must own, and +that with pleasure, that on our arrival here, it could hardly be said we +had one sick man; and but a few who had the least complaint. This was +undoubtedly owing to the many antiscorbutic articles we had on board, and +to the great attention of the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply +them in time. + +CHAPTER X. + +_Departure from the Marquesas; a Description of the Situation, Extent, +Figure, and Appearance of the several Islands; with some Account of the +Inhabitants, their Customs, Dress, Habitations, Food, Weapons, and +Canoes._ + +1774 April + +At three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed, and stood over from St +Christina for La Dominica, in order to take a view of the west side of that +isle; but as it was dark before we reached it, the night was spent in +plying between the two isles. The next morning we had a full view of the +S.W. point, from which the coast trended N.E.; so that it was not probable +we should find good anchorage on that side, as being exposed to the +easterly winds. We had now but little wind, and that very variable, with +showers of rain. At length we got a breeze at E.N.E. with which we steered +to the south. At five o'clock p.m., Resolution Bay bore E.N.E. 1/2 E. +distant five leagues, and the island Magdalena S.E., about nine leagues +distant. This was the only sight we had of this isle. From hence I steered +S.S.W. 1/2 W. for Otaheite, with a view of falling in with some of those +isles discovered by former navigators, especially those discovered by the +Dutch, whose situations are not well determined. But it will be necessary +to return to the Marquesas; which were, as I have already observed, first +discovered by Mendana, a Spaniard, and from him obtained the general name +they now bear, as well as those of the different isles. The nautical +account of them, in vol. i. p. 61, of Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages to +the South Seas, is deficient in nothing but situation. This was my chief +reason for touching, at them; the settling this point is the more useful, +as it will in a great measure fix the situations of Mendana's other +discoveries. + +The Marquesas are five in number, viz. La Magdalena, St Pedro, La Dominica, +Santa Christina, and Hood's Island, which is the northernmost, situated in +latitude 9° 26' S., and N. 13° W., five leagues and a half distant from the +east point of La Dominica, which is the largest of all the isles, extending +east and west six leagues. It hath an unequal breadth, and is about fifteen +or sixteen leagues in circuit. It is full of rugged hills, rising in ridges +directly from the sea; these ridges are disjoined by deep vallies which are +clothed with wood, as are the sides of some of the hills; the aspect, +however, is barren; but it is, nevertheless, inhabited. Latitude 9° 44' 30" +S. St Pedro, which is about three leagues in circuit, and of a good height, +lies south, four leagues and a half from the east end of La Dominica; we +know not if it be inhabited. Nature has not been very bountiful to it. St +Christina lies under the same parallel, three or four leagues more to the +west. This island stretches north and south, is nine miles long in that +direction, and about seven leagues in circuit. A narrow ridge of hills of +considerable height extends the whole length of the island. There are other +ridges, which, rising from the sea, and with an equal ascent, join the main +ridge. These are disjoined by deep narrow vallies, which are fertile, +adorned with fruit and other trees, and watered by fine streams of +excellent water. La Magdalena we only saw at a distance. Its situation must +be nearly in the latitude of 10° 25', longitude 138° 50'. So that these +isles occupy one degree in latitude, and near half a degree in longitude, +viz. from 138° 47' to 139° 13' W., which is the longitude of the west end +of La Dominica. + +The port of Madre de Dios, which I named Resolution Bay, is situated near +the middle of the west side of St Christina, and under the highest land in +the island, in latitude 9° 55' 30", longitude 139° 8' 40" W.; and north 15' +W. from the west end of La Dominica. The south point of the bay is a steep +rock of considerable height, terminating at the top in a peaked hill, above +which you will see a path-way leading up a narrow ridge to the summits of +the hills. The north point is not so high, and rises with a more gentle +slope. They are a mile from each other, in the direction of N. by E. and S. +by W. In the bay, which is near three quarters of a mile deep, and has from +thirty-four to twelve fathoms water, with a clean sandy bottom, are two +sandy coves, divided from each other by a rocky point. In each is a rivulet +of excellent water. The northern cove is the most commodious for wooding +and watering. Here is the little water-fall mentioned by Quiros, Mendana's +pilot; but the town, or village, is in the other cove. There are several +other coves, or bays, on this side of the island, and some of them, +especially to the northward, may be mistaken for this; therefore, the best +direction is the bearing of the west end of La Dominica. + +The trees, plants, and other productions of these isles, so far as we know, +are nearly the same as at Otaheite and the Society Isles. The refreshments +to be got are hogs, fowls, plantains, yams, and some other roots; likewise +bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, but of these not many. At first these articles +were purchased with nails. Beads, looking-glasses, and such trifles, which +are so highly valued at the Society Isles, are in no esteem here; and even +nails at last lost their value for other articles far less useful. + +The inhabitants of these islands collectively, are, without exception, the +finest race of people in this sea. For fine shape and regular features, +they perhaps surpass all other nations. Nevertheless, the affinity of their +language to that spoken in Otaheite and the Society Isles, shews that they +are of the same nation. Oedidee could converse with them tolerably well, +though we could not; but it was easy to see that their language was nearly +the same. + +The men are punctured, or curiously _tattowed_, from head to foot. The +figures are various, and seem to be directed more by fancy than custom. +These puncturations make them look dark: But the women, who are but little +punctured, youths and young children, who are not at all, are as fair as +some Europeans. The men are in general tall, that is, about five feet ten +inches, or six feet; but I saw none that were fat and lusty like the +_Earees_ of Otaheite; nor did I see any that could be called meagre. +Their teeth are not so good, nor are their eyes so full and lively as those +of many other nations. Their hair, like ours, is of many colours, except +red, of which I saw none. Some have it long, but the most general custom is +to wear it short, except a bunch on each side of the crown, which they tie +in a knot. They observe different modes in trimming the beard, which is in +general long. Some part it, and tie it in two bunches under the chin, +others plait it, some wear it loose, and others quite short. + +Their clothing is the same as at Otaheite, and made of the same materials; +but they have it not in such plenty, nor is it so good. The men, for the +most part, have nothing to cover their nakedness, except the _Marra_, +as it is called at Otaheite; which is a slip of cloth passed round the +waist and betwixt the legs; This simple dress is quite sufficient for the +climate, and answers every purpose modesty requires. The dress of the women +is a piece of cloth wrapped round the loins like a petticoat, which reaches +down below the middle of the leg, and a loose mantle over their shoulders. +Their principal head-dress, and what appears to be their chief ornament, is +a sort of broad fillet, curiously made of the fibres of the husk of cocoa- +nuts. In the front is fixed a mother-o'-pearl shell wrought round to the +size of a tea saucer. Before that is another smaller one, of very fine +tortoise-shell, perforated into curious figures. Also before, and in the +centre of that, is another round piece of mother-o'-pearl, about the size +of half-a-crown; and before this another piece of perforated tortoise- +shell, about the size of a shilling. Besides this decoration in front, some +have it also on each side, but in smaller pieces; and all have fixed to +them, the tail feathers of cocks, or tropic birds, which, when the fillet +is tied on, stand upright; so that the whole together makes a very sightly +ornament. They wear round the neck a kind of ruff or necklace, call it +which you please, made of light wood, the out and upper side covered with +small red pease, which are fixed on with gum. They also wear small bunches +of human hair, fastened to a string, and tied round the legs and arms. +Sometimes, instead of hair, they make use of short feathers; but all the +above-mentioned ornaments are seldom seen on the same person. + +I saw only the chief, who came to visit us, completely dressed in this +manner. Their ordinary ornaments are necklaces and amulets made of shells, +&c. I did not see any with ear-rings; and yet all of them had their ears +pierced. + +Their dwellings are in the vallies, and on the sides of the hills, near +their plantations. They are built after the same manner as at Otaheite; but +are much meaner, and only covered with the leaves of the bread-tree. The +most of them are built on a square or oblong pavement of stone, raised some +height above the level of the ground. They likewise have such pavements +near their houses, on which they sit to eat and amuse themselves. + +In the article of eating, these people are by no means so cleanly as the +Otaheiteans. They are likewise dirty in their cookery. Pork and fowls are +dressed in an oven of hot stones, as at Otaheite; but fruit and roots they +roast on the fire, and after taking off the rind or skin, put them into a +platter or trough, with water, out of which I have seen both men and hogs +eat at the same time. I once saw them make a batter of fruit and roots +diluted with water, in a vessel that was loaded with dirt, and out of which +the hogs had been but that moment eating, without giving it the least +washing, or even washing their hands, which were equally dirty; and when I +expressed a dislike, was laughed at. I know not if all are so. The actions +of a few individuals are not sufficient to fix a custom on a whole nation. +Nor can I say if it is the custom for men and women to have separate +messes. I saw nothing to the contrary: Indeed I saw but few women upon the +whole. + +They seemed to have dwellings, or strong-holds, on the summits of the +highest hills. These we only saw by the help of our glasses; for I did not +permit any of our people to go there, as we were not sufficiently +acquainted with the disposition of the natives, which (I believe) is humane +and pacific. + +Their weapons are clubs and spears, resembling those of Otaheite, but +somewhat neater. They have also slings, with which they throw stones with +great velocity, and to a great distance, but not with a good aim. + +Their canoes are made of wood, and pieces of the bark of a soft tree, which +grows near the sea in great plenty, and is very tough and proper for the +purpose. They are from sixteen to twenty feet long, and about fifteen +inches broad; the head and stern are made of two solid pieces of wood; the +stern rises or curves a little, but in an irregular direction, and ends in +a point; the head projects out horizontally, and is carved into some faint +and very rude resemblance of a human face. They are rowed by paddles, and +some have a sort of lateen sail, made of matting. + +Hogs were the only quadrupeds we saw; and cocks and hens the only tame +fowls. However, the woods seemed to abound with small birds of a very +beautiful plumage, and fine notes; but the fear of alarming the natives +hindered us from shooting so many of them as might otherwise have been +done. + +CHAPTER XI. + +_A Description of several Islands discovered, or seen in the Passage from +the Marquesas to Otaheite; with an Account of a Naval Review._ + +1774 April + +With a fine easterly wind I steered S.W.--S.W. by W. and W. by S. till the +17th, at ten o'clock in the morning, when land was seen bearing W. 1/2 N., +which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be a string of low islets +connected together by a reef of coral rocks. We ranged the northwest coast, +at the distance of one mile from shore, to three quarters of its length, +which in the whole is near four leagues, when we came to a creek or inlet +that seemed to open a communication into the lake in the middle of the +isle. As I wanted to obtain some knowledge of the produce of these half- +drowned isles, we brought-to, hoisted out a boat, and sent the master in to +sound; there being no soundings without. + +As we ran along the coast, the natives appeared in several places armed +with long spears and clubs; and some were got together on one side of the +creek. When the master returned he reported that there was no passage into +the lake by the creek, which was fifty fathoms wide at the entrance, and +thirty deep; farther in, thirty wide, and twelve deep; that the bottom was +every where rocky, and the sides bounded by a wall of coral rocks. We were +under no necessity to put the ship into such a place as this; but as the +natives had shewn some signs of a friendly disposition, by coming peaceably +to the boat, and taking such things as were given them, I sent two boats +well armed ashore, under the command of Lieutenant Cooper, with a view of +having some intercourse with them, and to give Mr Forster an opportunity of +collecting something in his way. We saw our people land without the least +opposition being made by a few natives who were on the shores. Some little +time after, observing forty or fifty more, all armed, coming to join them, +we stood close in shore, in order to be ready to support our people in case +of an attack. But nothing of this kind happened; and soon after our boats +returned aboard, when Mr Cooper informed me, that, on his landing, only a +few of the natives met him on the beach, but there were many in the skirts +of the woods with spears in their hands. The presents he made them were +received with great coolness, which plainly shewed we were unwelcome +visitors. When their reinforcement arrived he thought proper to embark, as +the day was already far spent, and I had given orders to avoid an attack by +all possible means. When his men got into the boats, some were for pushing +them off, others for detaining them; but at last they suffered them to +depart at their leisure. They brought aboard five dogs, which seemed to be +in plenty there. They saw no fruit but cocoa-nuts, of which, they got, by +exchanges, two dozen. One of our people got a dog for a single plantain, +which led us to conjecture they had none of this fruit. + +This island, which is called by the inhabitants Ti-oo-kea, was discovered +and visited by Commodore Byron. It has something of an oval shape, is about +ten leagues in circuit, lying in the direction of E.S.E. and W.N.W., and +situated in the latitude of 14° 27' 30" S., longitude 144° 56' W. The +inhabitants of this island, and perhaps of all the low ones, are of a much +darker colour than those of the higher islands, and seem to be of a more +ferine disposition. This may be owing to their situation. Nature not having +bestowed her favours to these low islands with that profusion she has done +to some of the others, the inhabitants are chiefly beholden to the sea for +their subsistence, consequently are much exposed to the sun and weather; +and by that means become more dark in colour, and more hardy and robust; +for there is no doubt of their being of the same nation. Our people +observed that they were stout, well-made men, and had the figure of a fish +marked on their bodies; a very good emblem of their profession. + +On the 18th, at day-break, after having spent the night snaking short +boards, we wore down to another isle we had in sight to the westward, which +we reached by eight o'clock, and ranged the S.E. side at one mile from +shore. We found it to be just such another as that we had left, extending +N.E. and S.W. near four leagues, and from five to three miles broad. It +lies S.W. by W., two leagues distant from the west end of Ti-oo-kea; and +the middle is situated in the latitude of 14° 37' S., longitude 145° 10' W. +These must be the same islands to which Commodore Byron gave the name of +George's Islands. Their situation in longitude, which was determined by +lunar observations made near the shores, and still farther corrected by the +difference of longitude carried by the watch to Otaheite, is 3° 54' more +east than he says they lie. This correction, I apprehend, may be applied to +all the islands he discovered. + +After leaving these isles, we steered S.S.W. 1/2 W., and S.W. by S., with a +fine easterly gale, having signs of the vicinity of land, particularly a +smooth sea; and on the 19th, at seven in the morning, land was seen to the +westward, which we bore down to, and reached the S.E. end by nine o'clock. +It proved to be another of these half-over-flowed or drowned islands, which +are so common in this part of the ocean; that is, a number of little isles +ranged in a circular form, connected together by a reef or wall of coral +rock. The sea is in general, every-where, on their outside, unfathomable; +all their interior parts are covered with water, abounding, I have been +told, with fish and turtle, on which the inhabitants subsist, and sometimes +exchange the latter with the high islanders for cloth, &c. These inland +seas would be excellent harbours, were they not shut up from the access of +shipping, which is the case with most of them, if we can believe the report +of the inhabitants of the other isles. Indeed, few of them have been well +searched by Europeans; the little prospect of meeting with fresh water +having generally discouraged every attempt of this kind. I, who have seen a +great many, have not yet seen an inlet into one. + +This island is situated in the latitude of 15° 26', longitude 146° 20'. It +is five leagues long in the direction of N.N.E. and S.S.W. and about three +leagues broad. As we drew near the south end, we saw from the mast-head, +another of these low isles bearing S.E., distant about four or five +leagues, but being to windward we could not fetch it. Soon after a third +appeared, bearing S.W. by S., for which we steered; and at two o'clock p.m. +reached the east end, which is situated in latitude 15° 47' S., longitude +146° 30' W. This island extends W.N.W. and E.S.E., and is seven leagues +long in that direction; but its breadth is not above two. It is, in all +respects, like the rest; only here are fewer islets, and less firm land on +the reef which incloses the lake. As we ranged the north coast, at the +distance of half a mile, we saw people, huts, canoes, and places built, +seemingly for drying of fish. They seemed to be the same sort of people as +on Ti-oo-kea, and were armed with long spikes like them. Drawing near the +west end, we discovered another or fourth island, bearing N.N.E. It seemed +to be low, like the others, and lies west from the first isle, distant six +leagues. These four isles I called Palliser's Isles, in honour of my worthy +friend Sir Hugh Palliser, at this time comptroller of the navy. + +Not chusing to run farther in the dark, we spent the night making short +boards under the top-sail; and on the 20th, at day-break, hauled round the +west end of the third isle, which was no sooner done than we found a great +swell rolling in from the south; a sure sign that we were clear of these +low islands; and as we saw no more land, I steered S.W. 1/2 S. for +Otaheite, having the advantage of a stout gale at east, attended with +showers of rain. It cannot be determined with any degree of certainty +whether the group of isles we had lately seen, be any of those discovered +by the Dutch navigators, or no; the situation of their discoveries not +being handed down to us with sufficient accuracy. It is, however, necessary +to observe, that this part of the ocean, that is, from the latitude of 20° +down to 14° or 12°, and from the meridian of 138° to 148° or 150° W., is so +strewed with these low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much +caution. + +We made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st, and at noon were about +thirteen leagues E. of Point Venus, for which we steered, and got pretty +well in with it by sun set, when we shortened sail; and having spent the +night, which was squally with rain, standing on and off, at eight o'clock +the next morning anchored in Matavai Bay in seven fathoms water. This was +no sooner known to the natives, than many of them made us a visit, and +expressed not a little joy at seeing us again. + +As my chief reason for putting in at this place was to give Mr Wales an +opportunity to know the error of the watch by the known longitude, and to +determine anew her rate of going, the first thing we did was to land his +instruments, and to erect tents for the reception of a guard and such other +people as it was necessary to have on shore. Sick we had none; the +refreshments we had got at the Marquesas had removed every complaint of +that kind. + +On the 23d, showery weather. Our very good friends the natives supplied us +with fruit and fish sufficient for the whole crew. + +On the 24th, Otoo the king, and several other chiefs, with a train of +attendants, paid us a visit, and brought as presents ten or a dozen large +hogs, besides fruits, which made them exceedingly welcome. I was advertised +of the king's coming, and looked upon it as a good omen. Knowing how much +it was my interest to make this man my friend, I met him at the tents, and +conducted him and his friends on board, in my boat, where they staid +dinner; after which they were dismissed with suitable presents, and highly +pleased with the reception they had met with. + +Next day we had much thunder, lightning, and rain. This did not hinder the +king from making me another visit, and a present of a large quantity of +refreshments. It hath been already mentioned, that when we were at the +island of Amsterdam we had collected, amongst other curiosities, some red +parrot feathers. When this was known here, all the principal people of both +sexes endeavoured to ingratiate themselves into our favour by bringing us +hogs, fruit, and every other thing the island afforded, in order to obtain +these valuable jewels. Our having these feathers was a fortunate +circumstance, for as they were valuable to the natives, they became so to +us; but more especially as my stock of trade was by this time greatly +exhausted; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, I should have +found it difficult to have supplied the ship with the necessary +refreshments. + +When I put in at this island, I intended to stay no longer than till Mr +Wales had made the necessary observations for the purposes already +mentioned, thinking we should meet with no better success than we did the +last time we were here. But the reception we had already met with, and the +few excursions we had made, which did not exceed the plains of Matavai and +Oparree, convinced us of our error. We found at these two places, built and +building, a great number of large canoes, and houses of every kind; people +living in spacious habitations who had not a place to shelter themselves in +eight months before; several large hogs about every house; and every other +sign of a rising state. + +Judging from these favourable circumstances that we should not mend +ourselves by removing to another island, I resolved to make a longer stay, +and to begin with the repairs of the ship and stores, &c. Accordingly I +ordered the empty casks and sails to be got ashore to be repaired; the ship +to be caulked, and the rigging to be overhauled; all of which the high +southern latitudes had made indispensably necessary. + +In the morning of the 26th, I went down to Oparree, accompanied by some of +the officers and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a visit by appointment. As we drew +near, we observed a number of large canoes in motion; but we were +surprised, when we arrived, to see upwards of three hundred ranged in +order, for some distance, along the shore, all completely equipped and +manned, besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. So unexpected an +armament collected together in our neighbourhood, in the space of one +night, gave rise to various conjectures. We landed, however, in the midst +of them, and were received by a vast multitude, many of them under arms, +and many not. The cry of the latter was _Tiyo no Otoo_, and that of +the former _Tiyo no Towha_. This chief, we afterwards learnt, was +admiral or commander of the fleet and troops present. The moment we landed +I was met by a chief whose name was Tee, uncle to the king, and one of his +prime ministers, of whom I enquired for Otoo. Presently after we were met +by Towha, who received me with great courtesy. He took me by the one hand, +and Tee by the other; and, without my knowing where they intended to carry +me, dragged me, as it were, through the crowd that was divided into two +parties, both of which professed themselves my friends, by crying out +_Tiyo no Tootee_. One party wanted me to go to Otoo, and the other to +remain with Towha. Coming to the visual place of audience, a mat was spread +for me to sit down upon, and Tee left me to go and bring the king. Towha +was unwilling I should sit down, partly insisting on my going with him; +but, as I knew nothing of this chief, I refused to comply. Presently Tee +returned, and wanted to conduct me to the king, taking hold of my hand for +that purpose. This Towha opposed; so that, between the one party and the +other, I was like to have been torn in pieces; and was obliged to desire +Tee to desist, and to leave me to the admiral and his party, who conducted +me down to the fleet. As soon as we came before the admiral's vessel, we +found two lines of armed men drawn up before her, to keep off the crowd, as +I supposed, and to clear the way for me to go in. But, as I was determined +not to go, I made the water, which was between me and her, an excuse. This +did not answer; for a man immediately squatted himself down at my feet, +offering to carry me; and then I declared I would not go. That very moment +Towha quitted me, without my seeing which way he went, nor would any one +inform me. Turning myself round I saw Tee, who, I believe, had never lost +sight of me. Enquiring of him for the king, he told me he was gone into the +country Mataou, and advised me to go to my boat; which we accordingly did, +as soon as we could get collected together; for Mr Edgcumbe was the only +person that could keep with me, the others being jostled about in the +crowd, in the same manner we had been. + +When we got into our boat, we took our time to view this grand fleet. The +vessels of war consisted of an hundred and sixty large double canoes, very +well equipped, manned, and armed. But I am not sure that they had their +full complement of men or rowers; I rather think not. The chiefs, and all +those on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits; that is, in +a vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast-plates, and helmets. Some of the +latter were of such a length as greatly to encumber the wearer. Indeed, +their whole dress seemed to be ill calculated for the day of battle, and to +be designed more for shew than use. Be this as it may, it certainly added +grandeur to the prospect, as they were so complaisant as to shew themselves +to the best advantage. The vessels were decorated with flags, streamers, +&c.; so that the whole made a grand and noble appearance, such as we had +never seen before in this sea, and what no one would have expected. Their +instruments of war were clubs, spears, and stones. The vessels were ranged +close along-side of each other with their heads ashore, and their stern to +the sea; the admiral's vessel being nearly in the centre. Besides the +vessels of war, there were an hundred and seventy sail of smaller double +canoes, all with a little house upon them, and rigged with mast and sail, +which the war canoes had not. These, we judged, were designed for +transports, victuallers, &c.; for in the war-canoes was no sort of +provisions whatever. In these three hundred and thirty vessels, I guessed +there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred and sixty men; a +number which appears incredible, especially as we were told they all +belonged to the districts of Attahourou and Ahopatea. In this computation I +allow to each war canoe forty men, troops and rowers, and to each of the +small canoes eight. Most of the gentlemen who were with me, thought the +number of men belonging to the war canoes exceeded this. It is certain that +the most of them were fitted to row with more paddles than I have allowed +them men; but, at this time, I think they were not complete. Tupia informed +us, when I was first here, that the whole island raised only between six +and seven thousand men; but we now saw two districts only raise that +number; so that he must have taken his account from some old establishment; +or else he only meant _Tatatous_, that is warriors, or men trained +from their infancy to arms, and did not include the rowers, and those +necessary to navigate the other vessels. I should think he only spoke of +this number as the standing troops or militia of the island, and not their +whole force. This point I shall leave to be discussed in another place, and +return to the subject. + +After we had well viewed this fleet, I wanted much to have seen the +admiral, to have gone with him on board the war-canoes. We enquired for him +as we rowed past the fleet to no purpose. We put ashore and enquired; but +the noise and crowd was so great that no one attended to what we said. At +last Tee came and whispered us in the ear, that Otoo was gone to Matavai, +advising us to return thither, and not to land where we were. We +accordingly proceeded for the ship; and this intelligence and advice +received from Tee, gave rise to new conjectures. In short, we concluded +that this Towha was some powerful disaffected chief, who was upon the point +of making war against his sovereign; for we could not imagine Otoo had any +other reason for leaving Oparree in the manner he did. + +We had not been long gone from Oparree, before the whole fleet was in +motion to the westward, from whence it came. When we got to Matavai, our +friends there told us, that this fleet was part of the armament intended to +go against Eimea, whose chief had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite, and +assumed an independency. We were likewise informed that Otoo neither was +nor had been at Matavai; so that we were still at a loss to know why he +fled from Oparree. This occasioned another trip thither in the afternoon, +where we found him, and now understood that the reason of his not seeing me +in the morning was, that some of his people having stolen a quantity of my +clothes which were on shore washing, he was afraid I should demand +restitution. He repeatedly asked me if I was not angry; and when I assured +him that I was not, and that they might keep what they had got, he was +satisfied. Towha was alarmed, partly on the same account. He thought I was +displeased when I refused to go aboard his vessel; and I was jealous of +seeing such a force in our neighbourhood without being able to know any +thing of its design. Thus, by mistaking one another, I lost the opportunity +of examining more narrowly into part of the naval force of this isle, and +making myself better acquainted with its manoeuvres. Such another +opportunity may never occur; as it was commanded by a brave, sensible, and +intelligent chief, who would have satisfied us in all the questions we had +thought proper to ask; and as the objects were before us, we could not well +have misunderstood each other. It happened unluckily that Oedidee was not +with us in the morning; for Tee, who was the only man we could depend on, +served only to perplex us. Matters being thus cleared up, and mutual +presents having passed between Otoo and me, we took leave and returned on +board. + +CHAPTER XII. + +_Some Account of a Visit from Otoo, Towha, and several other Chiefs; also +of a Robbery committed by one of the Natives, and its Consequences, with +general Observations on the Subject._ + +1774 April + +In the morning of the 27th, I received a present from Towha, consisting of +two large hogs and some fruit, sent by two of his servants, who had orders +not to receive any thing in return; nor would they when offered them. Soon +after I went down to Oparree in my boat, where, having found both this +chief and the king, after a short stay, I brought them on board to dinner, +together with Tarevatoo, the king's younger brother, and Tee. As soon as we +drew near the ship, the admiral, who had never seen one before, began to +express much surprise at so new a sight. He was conducted all over the +ship, every part of which he viewed with great attention. On this occasion +Otoo was the principal show-man; for, by this time, he was well acquainted +with the different parts of the ship. After dinner Towha put a hog on +board, and retired, without my knowing any thing of the matter, or having +made him any return either for this, or the present I had in the morning. +Soon after, the king and his attendants went away also. Otoo not only +seemed to pay this chief much respect, but was desirous I should do the +same; and yet he was jealous of him, but on what account we knew not. It +was but the day before that he frankly told us, Towha was not his friend. +Both these chiefs when on board solicited me to assist them against +Tiarabou, notwithstanding a peace at this time subsisted between the two +kingdoms, and we were told their joint force was to go against Eimea. +Whether this was done with a view of breaking with their neighbours and +allies if I had promised them assistance, or only to sound my disposition, +I know not. Probably they would have been ready enough to have embraced an +opportunity, which would have enabled them to conquer that kingdom, and +annex it to their own, as it formerly was. Be this as it may, I heard no +more of it; indeed, I gave them no encouragement. + +Next day we had a present of a hog sent by Waheatoua, king of Tiarabou. For +this, in return, he desired a few red feathers, which were, together with +other things, sent him accordingly. Mr Forster and his party set out for +the mountains, with an intent to stay out all night. I did not go out of +the ship this day. + +Early in the morning of the 29th, Otoo, Towha, and several other grandees, +came on board, and brought with them as presents, not only provisions, but +some of the most valuable curiosities of the island. I made them returns, +with which they were well pleased. I likewise took this opportunity to +repay the civilities I had received from Towha. + +The night before, one of the natives attempting to steal a water-cask from +the watering-place, was caught in the act, sent on board, and put in irons; +in which situation Otoo and the other chiefs saw him. Having made known his +crime to them, Otoo begged he might be set at liberty. This I refused, +telling him, that since I punished my people, when they committed the least +offence against his, it was but just this man should be punished also; and +as I knew he would not do it, I was resolved to do it myself. Accordingly, +I ordered the man to be carried on shore to the tents, and having followed +myself, with Otoo, Towha, and others, I ordered the guard out, under arms, +and the man to be tied up to a post. Otoo, his sister, and some others, +begged hard for him; Towha said not one word, but was very attentive to +every thing going forward. I expostulated with Otoo on the conduct of this +man, and of his people in general; telling him, that neither I, nor any of +my people, took any thing from them, without first paying for it; +enumerating the articles we gave in exchange for such and such things; and +urging that it was wrong in them to steal from us, who were their friends. +I moreover told him, that the punishing this man would be the means of +saving the lives of others of his people, by deterring them from committing +crimes of this nature, in which some would certainly be shot dead, one time +or another. With these and other arguments, which I believe he pretty well +understood, he seemed satisfied, and only desired the man might not be +_Matterou_ (or killed). I then ordered the crowd, which was very +great, to be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of them all, +ordered the fellow two dozen lashes with a cat-o'-nine-tails, which he bore +with great firmness, and was then set at liberty. After this the natives +were going away; but Towha stepped forth, called them back, and harangued +them for near half an hour. His speech consisted of short sentences, very +little of which I understood; but, from what we could gather, he +recapitulated part of what I had said to Otoo; named several advantages +they had received from us; condemned their present conduct, and recommended +a different one for the future. The gracefulness of his action, and the +attention with which he was heard, bespoke him a great orator. + +Otoo said not one word. As soon as Towha had ended his speech, I ordered +the marines to go through their exercise, and to load and fire in vollies +with ball; and as they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is easier to +conceive than to describe the amazement the natives were under the whole +time, especially those who had not seen any thing of the kind before. + +This being over, the chiefs took leave, and retired with all their +attendants, scarcely more pleased than frightened at what they had seen. In +the evening Mr Forster and his party returned from the mountains, where he +had spent the night; having found some new plants, and some others which +grew in New Zealand. He saw Huaheine, which lies forty leagues to the +westward; by which a judgment may be formed of the height of the mountains +in Otaheite. + +Next morning I had an opportunity to see the people of ten war-canoes go +through part of their paddling exercise. They had put off from the shore +before I was apprised of it; so that I was only present at their landing. +They were properly equipped for war, the warriors with their arms, and +dressed in their war habits, &c. In landing, I observed that the moment the +canoe touched the ground, all the rowers leaped out, and with the +assistance of a few people on the shore, dragged the canoe on dry land to +her proper place; which being done, every one walked off with his paddle, +&c. All this was executed with such expedition, that in five minutes time +after putting ashore, you could not tell that any thing of the kind had +been going forward. I thought these vessels were thinly manned with rowers; +the most being not above thirty, and the least sixteen or eighteen. I +observed the warriors on the stage encouraged the rowers to exert +themselves. Some youths sat high up in the curved stern, above the +steersmen, with white wands in their hands. I know not what they were +placed there for, unless it was to look out and direct, or give notice of +what they saw, as they were elevated above every one else. Tarevatoo, the +king's brother, gave me the first notice of these canoes being at sea; and +knowing that Mr Hodges made drawings of every thing curious, desired of his +own accord that he might be sent for. I being at this time on shore with +Tarevatoo, Mr Hodges was therefore with me, and had an opportunity to +collect some materials for a large drawing or picture of the fleet +assembled at Oparree, which conveys a far better idea of it than can be +expressed by words. Being present when the warriors undressed, I was +surprised at the quantity and weight of cloth they had upon them, not +conceiving how it was possible for them to stand under it in time of +battle. Not a little was wrapped round their heads as a turban, and made +into a cap. This, indeed, might be necessary in preventing a broken head. +Many had, fixed to one of this sort of caps, dried branches of small shrubs +covered over with white feathers, which, however, could only be for +ornament. + +1774 May + +On the 1st of May, I had a very great supply of provisions sent and brought +by different chiefs; and the next day received a present from Towha, sent +by his servants, consisting of a hog, and a boat-load of various sorts of +fruits and roots. The like present I also had from Otoo, brought by +Tarevatoo, who stayed dinner; after which I went down to Opparree, paid a +visit to Otoo, and returned on board in the evening. + +On the 3d, in looking into the condition of our sea-provisions, we found +that the biscuit was in a state of decay, and that the airing and picking +we had given it at New Zealand, had not been of that service we expected +and intended; so that we were obliged to take it all on shore here, where +it underwent another airing and cleaning, in which a good deal was found +wholly rotten and unfit to be eaten. We could not well account for this +decay in our bread, especially as it was packed in good casks, and stowed +in a dry part of the hold. We judged it was owing to the ice we so +frequently took in when to the southward, which made the hold damp and +cold, and to the great heat which succeeded when to the north. Be it this, +or any other cause, the loss was the same to us; it put us to a scanty +allowance of this article; and we had bad bread to eat too. + +On the 4th, nothing worthy of note. + +On the 5th, the king and several other great men, paid us a visit, and +brought with them, as usual, some hogs and fruit. In the afternoon, the +botanists set out for the mountains, and returned the following evening, +having made some new discoveries in their way. + +On going ashore in the morning of the 7th, I found Otoo at the tents, and +took the opportunity to ask his leave to cut down some trees, for fuel. He +not well understanding me, I took him to some growing near the sea-shore, +where I presently made him comprehend what I wanted, and he as readily gave +his consent. I told him, at the same time, that I should cut down no trees +that bore any fruit. He was pleased with this declaration, and told it +aloud, several times, to the people about us. + +In the afternoon, this chief and the whole of the royal family, viz. his +father, brother, and three sisters, paid us a visit on board. This was +properly his father's visit of ceremony. He brought me, as a present, a +complete mourning dress, a curiosity we most valued. In return, I gave +him whatever he desired, which was not a little, and having distributed red +feathers to all the others, conducted them ashore in my boat. Otoo was so +well pleased with the reception he and his friends met with, that he told +me, at parting, I might cut down as many trees as I pleased, and what sort +I pleased. + +During the night, between the 7th and 8th, some time in the middle watch, +all our friendly connections received an interruption, through the +negligence of one of the centinels on shore. He having either slept or +quitted his post, gave one of the natives an opportunity to carry off his +musket. The first news I heard of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had sent on +board for that purpose, and to desire that I would go to him, for that he +was _mataoued_. We were not well enough acquainted with their language +to understand all Tee's story; but we understood enough to know that +something had happened which had alarmed the king. In order, therefore, to +be fully informed, I went ashore with Tee and Tarevatoo, who had slept +aboard all night. As soon as we landed, I was informed of the whole by the +serjeant who commanded the party. I found the natives all alarmed, and the +most of them fled. Tarevatoo slipped from me in a moment, and hardly any +remained by me but Tee. With him I went to look for Otoo; and, as we +advanced, I endeavoured to allay the fears of the people, but, at the same +time, insisted on the musket being restored. After travelling some distance +into the country, enquiring of every one we saw for Otoo, Tee stopped all +at once and advised me to return, saying, that Otoo was gone to the +mountains, and he would proceed and tell him that I was still his friend; a +question which had been asked me fifty times by different people, and if I +was angry, &c. Tee also promised that he would use his endeavours to +recover the musket. I was now satisfied it was to no purpose to go farther; +for, although I was alone and unarmed, Otoo's fears were such, that he +durst not see me; and, therefore, I took Tee's advice, and returned aboard. +After this I sent Oedidee to Otoo to let him know that his fears were ill- +grounded; for that I only required the return of the musket, which I knew +was in his power. + +Soon after Oedidee was gone, we observed six large canoes coming round +Point Venus. Some people whom I had sent out, to watch the conduct of the +neighbouring inhabitants, informed me they were laden with baggage, fruit, +hogs, &c. There being room for suspecting that some person belonging to +these canoes had committed the theft, I presently came to a resolution to +intercept them; and having put off in a boat for that purpose, gave orders +for another to follow. One of the canoes, which was some distance ahead of +the rest, came directly for the ship. I went alongside this, and found two +or three women in her whom I knew. They told me they were going on board +the ship with something for me; and, on my enquiring of them for Otoo, was +told he was then at the tents. Pleased with this news, I contradicted the +orders I had given for intercepting the other canoes, thinking they might +be coming on board also, as well as this one, which I left within a few +yards of the ship, and rowed ashore to speak with Otoo. But when I landed, +I was told that he had not been there, nor knew they any thing of him. On +my looking behind me, I saw all the canoes making off in the greatest +haste; even the one I had left alongside the ship had evaded going on +board, and was making her escape. Vexed at being thus outwitted, I resolved +to pursue them; and as I passed the ship, gave orders to send another boat +for the same purpose. Five out of six we took, and brought alongside; but +the first, which acted the finesse so well, got clear off. When we got on +board with our prizes, I learnt that the people who had deceived me, used +no endeavours to lay hold of the ship on the side they were up on, but let +their canoe drop past, as if they meant to come under the stern, or on the +other side; and that the moment they were past, they paddled off with all +speed. Thus the canoe, in which were only a few women, was to have amused +us with false stories as they actually did, while the others, in which were +most of the effects, got off. + +In one of the canoes we had taken, was a chief, a friend of Mr Forster's, +who had hitherto called himself an _Earee_, and would have been much +offended if any one had called his title in question; also three women, his +wife and daughter, and the mother of the late Toutaha. These, together with +the canoes, I resolved to detain, and to send the chief to Otoo, thinking +he would have weight enough with him to obtain the return of the musket, as +his own property was at stake. He was, however, very unwilling to go on +this embassy, and made various excuses, one of which was his being of too +low a rank for this honourable employment; saying he was no _Earee_, +but a _Manahouna_, and, therefore, was not a fit person to be sent; +that an _Earee_ ought to be sent to speak to an _Earee_; and as +there were no _Earees_ but Otoo and myself, it would be much more +proper for me to go. All his arguments would have availed him little, if +Tee and Oedidee had not at this time come on board, and given a new turn to +the affair, by declaring that the man who stole the musket was from +Tiarabou, and had gone with it to that kingdom, so that it was not in the +power of Otoo to recover it. I very much doubted their veracity, till they +asked me to send a boat to Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, and offered to +go themselves in her, and get it. I asked why this could not be done +without my sending a boat? They said, it would not otherwise be given to +them. + +This story of theirs, although it did not quite satisfy me, nevertheless +carried with it a probability of truth; for which reason I thought it +better to drop the affair altogether, rather than to punish a nation for a +crime I was not sure any of its members had committed. I therefore suffered +my new ambassador to depart with his two canoes without executing his +commission. The other three canoes belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou chief, +who had been some days about the tents; and there was good reason to +believe it was one of his people that carried off the musket. I intended to +have detained them; but as Tee and Oedidee both assured me that Maritata +and his people were quite innocent, I suffered them to be taken away also, +and desired Tee to tell Otoo, that I should give myself no farther concern +about the musket, since I was satisfied none of his people had stolen it. +Indeed, I thought it was irrecoverably lost; but, in the dusk of the +evening it was brought to the tents, together with some other things we had +lost, which we knew nothing of, by three men who had pursued the thief, and +taken them from him. I know not if they took this trouble of their own +accord, or by the order of Otoo. I rewarded them, and made no other enquiry +about it. These men, as well as some others present, assured me that it was +one of Maritata's people who had committed this theft; which vexed me that +I had let his canoes so easily slip through my fingers. Here, I believe, +both Tee and Oedidee designedly deceived me. + +When the musket and other things were brought in, every one then present, +or who came after, pretended to have had some hand in recovering them, and +claimed a reward accordingly. But there was no one who acted this farce so +well as Nuno, a man of some note, and well known to us when I was here in +1769. This man came, with all the savage fury imaginable in his +countenance, and a large club in his hand, with which he beat about him, in +order to shew us how he alone had killed the thief; when, at the same time, +we all knew that he had not been out of his house the whole time. + +Thus ended this troublesome day; and next morning early, Tee, Otoo's +faithful ambassador, came again on board, to acquaint me that Otoo was gone +to Oparree, and desired I would send a person (one of the natives as I +understood), to tell him that I was still his _Tiyo_. I asked him why +he did not do this himself, as I had desired. He made some excuse; but, I +believe the truth was, he had not seen him. In short, I found it was +necessary for me to go myself; for, while we thus spent our time in +messages, we remained without fruit, a stop being put to all exchanges of +this nature; that is, the natives brought nothing to market. Accordingly, a +party of us set out with Tee in our company, and proceeded to the very +utmost limits of Oparree, where, after waiting some considerable time, and +several messages having passed, the king at last made his appearance. After +we were seated under the shade of some trees, as usual, and the first +salutations were over, he desired me to _parou_ (that is, to speak). +Accordingly, I began with blaming him for being frightened and alarmed at +what had happened, since I had always professed myself his friend, and I +was not angry with him or any of his people, but with those of Tiarabou, +who were the thieves. I was then asked, how I came to fire at the canoes? +Chance on this occasion furnished me with a good excuse. I told them, that +they belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou man, one of whose people had stolen +the musket, and occasioned all this disturbance; and if I had them in my +power I would destroy them, or any other belonging to Tiarabou. This +declaration pleased them, as I expected, from the natural aversion the one +kingdom has to the other. What I said was enforced by presents, which +perhaps had the greatest weight with them. Thus were things once more +restored to their former state; and Otoo promised on his part, that the +next day we should be supplied with fruit, &c. as usual. + +We then returned with him to his proper residence at Oparree, and there +took a view of some of his dock-yards (for such they well deserve to be +called) and large canoes; some lately built, and others building; two of +which were the largest I had ever seen in this sea; or indeed any where +else, under that name. This done, we returned on board, with Tee in our +company; who, after he had dined with us, went to inform old Happi, the +king's father, that all matters were again accommodated. + +This old chief was at this time in the neighbourhood of Matavai; and it +should seem, from what followed, that he was not pleased with the +conditions; for that same evening all the women, which were not a few, were +sent for out of the ship, and people stationed on different parts of the +shore, to prevent any from coming off; and the next morning no supplies +whatever being brought, on my enquiring into the reason, I was told Happi +was _mataoued_. Chagrined at this disappointment as I was, I forbore +taking any step, from a supposition that Tee had not seen him, or that +Otoo's orders had not yet reached Matavai. A supply of fruit sent us from +Oparree, and some brought us by our friends, served us for the present, and +made us less anxious about it. Thus matters stood till the afternoon, when +Otoo himself came to the tents with a large supply. Thither I went, and +expostulated with him for not permitting the people in our neighbourhood to +bring us fruit as usual, insisting on his giving immediate orders about it; +which he either did or had done before. For presently after, more was +brought us than we could well manage. This was not to be wondered at, for +the people had every thing in readiness to bring, the moment they were +permitted, and I believe thought themselves as much injured by the +restriction as we did. + +Otoo desiring to see some of the great guns fire from the ship, I ordered +twelve to be shotted and fired towards the sea. As he had never seen a +cannon fired before, the sight gave him as much pain as pleasure. In the +evening, we entertained him with fire-works, which gave him great +satisfaction. + +Thus ended all our differences, on which I beg leave to suggest the +following remarks. I have had occasion before, in this journal, to observe +that these people were continually watching opportunities to rob us. This +their governors either encouraged, or had not power to prevent; but most +probably the former, because the offender was always screened. That they +should commit such daring thefts was the more extraordinary, as they +frequently run the risk of being shot in the attempt; and if the article +that they stole was of any consequence, they knew they should be obliged to +make restitution. The moment a theft of this kind was committed, it spread +like the wind over the whole neighbourhood. They judged of the consequences +from what they had got. If it were a trifle, and such an article as we +usually gave them, little or no notice was taken of it; but if the +contrary, every one took the alarm, and moved off with his moveables in all +haste. The chief then was _mataoued_, giving orders to bring us no +supplies, and flying to some distant part. All this was sometimes done so +suddenly, that we obtained, by these appearances, the first intelligence of +our being robbed. Whether we obliged them to make restitution or no, the +chief must be reconciled before any of the people were permitted to bring +in refreshments. They knew very well we could not do without them, and +therefore they never failed strictly to observe this rule, without ever +considering, that all their war-canoes, on which the strength of their +nation depends, their houses, and even the very fruit they refused to +supply us with, were entirely in our power. It is hard to say how they +would act, were one to destroy any of these things. Except the detaining +some of their canoes for a while, I never touched the least article of +their property. Of the two extremes I always chose that which appeared the +most equitable and mild. A trifling present to the chief always succeeded +to my wish, and very often put things upon a better footing than they had +been before. That they were the first aggressors had very little influence +on my conduct in this respect, because no difference happened but when it +was so. My people very rarely or never broke through the rules I thought it +necessary to prescribe. Had I observed a different conduct, I must have +been a loser by it in the end; and all I could expect, after destroying +some part of their property, would have been the empty honour of obliging +them to make the first overture towards an accommodation. But who knows if +this would have been the event? Three things made them our fast friends. +Their own good-nature and benevolent disposition; gentle treatment on our +part; and the dread of our fire-arms. By our ceasing to observe the second; +the first would have worn out of course; and the too frequent use of the +latter would have excited a spirit of revenge, and perhaps have taught them +that fire-arms were not such terrible things as they had imagined. They +were very sensible of the superiority of their numbers; and no one knows +what an enraged multitude might do. + +CHAPTER XIII. + +_Preparations to leave the Island. Another Naval Review, and various +other Incidents; with some Account of the Island, its Naval Force, and +Number of Inhabitants._ + +1774 May + +In the morning of the 11th, a very large supply of fruit was brought us +from all parts. Some of it came from Towha, the admiral, sent as usual by +his servants, with orders to receive nothing in return. But he desired I +would go and see him at Attahourou, as he was ill and could not come to me. +As I could not well undertake this journey, I sent Oedidee along with +Towha's servants, with a present suitable to that which I had in so genteel +a manner received from him. As the most essential repairs of the ship were +nearly finished, I resolved to leave Otaheite in a few days; and +accordingly ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, that the +natives might see we were about to depart. + +On the 12th, old Oberea, the woman who, when the Dolphin was here in 1767, +was thought to be queen of the island, and whom I had not seen since 1769, +paid us a visit, and brought a present of hogs and fruit. Soon after came +Otoo, with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. I was +pretty liberal in my returns, thinking it might be the last time I should +see these good people, who had so liberally relieved our wants; and in the +evening entertained them with fire-works. + +On the 13th, wind easterly, fair weather. Nevertheless we were not ready to +sail, as Otoo had made me promise to see him again; and I had a present to +make him, which I reserved to the last. Oedidee was not yet come back from +Attahourou; various reports arose concerning him: Some said he had returned +to Matavai; others, that he would not return; and some would have it, that +he was at Oparree. In order to know more of the truth, a party of us in the +evening went down to Oparee; where we found him, and likewise Towha, who, +notwithstanding his illness, had resolved to see me before I sailed; and +had got thus far on his journey. He was afflicted with a swelling in his +feet and legs, which had entirely taken away the use of them. As the day +was far spent, we were obliged to shorten our stay; and after seeing Otoo, +we returned with Oedidee on board. + +This youth, I found, was desirous of remaining at this isle, having before +told him, as likewise many others, that we should not return. I now +mentioned to him, that he was at liberty to remain here; or to quit us at +Ulietea; or to go with us to England; frankly owning that if he chose the +latter, it was very probable he would never return to his country; in which +case I would take care of him, and he must afterwards look upon me as his +father. He threw his arms about me, and wept much, saying many people +persuaded him to remain at Otaheite. I told him to go ashore and speak to +his friends, and then come to me in the morning. He was well beloved in the +ship; so that every one was persuading him to go with us; telling what +great things he would see in England, and the immense riches (according to +his idea of riches) he would return with. But I thought proper to undeceive +him, as knowing that the only inducement to his going, was the expectation +of returning, and I could see no prospect of an opportunity of that kind +happening, unless a ship should be expressly sent out for that purpose; +which neither I, nor anyone else, had a right to expect. I thought it an +act of the highest injustice to take a person from these isles, under any +promise which was not in my power to perform. At this time indeed it was +quite unnecessary; for many youths voluntarily offered themselves to go, +and even to remain and die in _Pretanee_; as they call our country. +Otoo importuned me much to take one or two to collect red feathers for him +at Amsterdam, willing to risk the chance of their returning. Some of the +gentlemen on board were likewise desirous of taking some as servants; but I +refused every solicitation of this kind, knowing, from experience, they +would be of no use to us in the course of the voyage; and farther my views +were not extended. What had the greatest weight with me was, the thinking +myself bound to see they were afterwards properly taken care of, as they +could not be carried from their native spot without consent. + +Next morning early, Oedidee came on board, with a resolution to remain on +the island; but Mr Forster prevailed upon him to go with us to Ulietea. +Soon after, Towha, Potatou, Oamo, Happi, Oberea, and several more of our +friends, came on board with fruit, &c. Towha was hoisted in and placed on a +chair on the quarter-deck; his wife was with him. Amongst the various +articles which I gave this chief, was an English pendant, which pleased him +more than all the rest, especially after he had been instructed in the use +of it. + +We had no sooner dispatched our friends, than we saw a number of war-canoes +coming round the point of Oparree. Being desirous of having a nearer view +of them, accompanied by some of the officers and gentlemen, I hastened down +to Oparree, which we reached before all the canoes were landed, and had an +opportunity of seeing in what manner they approached the shore. When they +got before the place where they intended to land, they formed themselves +into divisions, consisting of three or four, or perhaps more, lashed square +and close along-side of each other; and then each division, one after the +other, paddled in for the shore with all their might, and conducted in so +judicious a manner, that they formed and closed a line along, the shore, to +an inch. The rowers were encouraged to exert their strength by their +leaders on the stages, and directed by a man who stood with a wand in his +hand in the forepart of the middlemost vessel. This man, by words and +actions, directed the paddlers when all should paddle, when either the one +side or the other should cease, &c.; for the steering paddles alone were +not sufficient to direct them. All these motions they observed with such +quickness, as clearly shewed them to be expert in their business. After Mr +Hodges had made a drawing of them, as they lay ranged along the shore, we +landed and took a nearer view of them, by going on board several. This +fleet consisted of forty sail, equipped in the same manner as those we had +seen before, belonged to the little district of Tettaha, and were come to +Oparree to be reviewed before the king, as the former fleet had been. There +were attending on his fleet some small double canoes, which they called +_Marais_, having on their fore-part a kind of double bed place laid +over with green leaves, each just sufficient to hold one man. These, they +told us, were to lay their dead upon; their chiefs I suppose they meant, +otherwise their slain must be few. Otoo, who was present, caused at my +request some of their troops to go through their exercise on shore. Two +parties first began with clubs, but this was over almost as soon as begun; +so that I had no time to make my observations upon it. They then went to +single combat, and exhibited the various methods of fighting, with great +alertness; parrying off the blows and pushes which each combatant aimed at +the other, with great dexterity. Their arms were clubs and spears; the +latter they also use as darts. In fighting with the club, all blows +intended to be given the legs, were evaded by leaping over it; and those +intended for the head, by couching a little, and leaping on one side; thus +the blow would fall to the ground. The spear or dart was parried by fixing +the point of a spear in the ground right before them, holding it in an +inclined position, more or less elevated according to the part of the body +they saw their antagonist intending to make a push, or throw his dart at, +and by moving the hand a little to the right or left, either the one or the +other was turned off with great ease. I thought that when one combatant had +parried off the blows, &c. of the other, he did not use the advantage which +seemed to me to accrue. As for instance, after he had parried off a dart, +he still stood on the defensive, and suffered his antagonist to take up +another, when I thought there was time to run him through the body. + +These combatants had no superfluous dress upon them; an unnecessary piece +of cloth or two, which they had on when they began, were presently torn off +by the by-standers, and given to some of our gentlemen present. This being +over, the fleet departed; not in any order, but as fast as they could be +got afloat; and we went with Otoo to one of his dock-yards, where the two +large _pahies_ or canoes were building, each of which was an hundred +and eight feet long. They were almost ready to launch, and were intended to +make one joint double _pahie_ or canoe. The king begged of me a +grappling and rope, to which I added an English jack and pendant (with the +use of which he was well acquainted), and desired the _pahie_ might be +called Britannia. This he very readily agreed to; and she was named +accordingly. After this he gave me a hog, and a turtle of about sixty +pounds weight, which was put privately into our boat; the giving it away +not being agreeable to some of the great lords about him, who were thus +deprived of a feast. He likewise would have given me a large shark they had +prisoner in a creek (some of his fins being cut off, so that he could not +make his escape), but the fine pork and fish we had got at this isle, had +spoiled our palates for such food. The king, and Tee, his prime minister, +accompanied us on board to dinner; and after it was over, took a most +affectionate farewell. He hardly ever ceased soliciting me, this day, to +return to Otaheite; and just before he went out of the ship, took a youth +by the hand, and presented him to me, desiring I would keep him on board to +go to Amsterdam to collect red feathers. I told him I could not, since I +knew he would never return; but that if any ship should happen to come from +Britain to this isle, I would either bring or send him red feathers in +abundance. This in some measure satisfied him; but the youth was +exceedingly desirous of going; and if I had not come to a resolution to +carry no one from the isles (except Oedidee if he chose to go), and but +just refused Mr Forster the liberty of taking a boy, I believe I should +have consented. Otoo remained alongside in his canoe till we were under +sail, when we put off, and was saluted with three guns. + +Our treatment here was such as had induced one of our gunner's mates to +form a plan to remain at this isle. He knew he could not execute it with +success while we lay in the bay, therefore took the opportunity, as soon as +we were out, the boats in, and sails set, to slip overboard, being a good +swimmer. But he was discovered before he got clear of the ship; and we +presently hoisted a boat out, and took him up. A canoe was observed about +half-way between us and the shore, seemingly coming after us. She was +intended to take him up; but as soon as the people in her saw our boat, +they kept at a distance. This was a pre-concerted plan between the man and +them, which Otoo was acquainted with, and had encouraged. When I considered +this man's situation in life, I did not think him so culpable, nor the +resolution he had taken of staying here so extraordinary, as it may at +first appear. He was an Irishman by birth, and had sailed in the Dutch +service. I picked him up at Batavia on my return from my former voyage, and +he had been with me ever since. I never learnt that he had either friends +or connections, to confine him to any particular part of the world. All +nations were alike to him. Where then could such a man be more happy than +at one of these isles? where, in one of the finest climates in the world, +he could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in ease +and plenty. I know not if he might not have obtained my consent, if he had +applied for it in a proper time. As soon as we had got him on board, and +the boat in, I steered for Huaheine, in order to pay a visit to our friends +there. But before we leave Otaheite, it will be necessary to give some +account of the present state of that island; especially as it differs very +much from what it was eight months before. + +I have already mentioned the improvements we found in the plains of Oparree +and Matavai. The same was observable in every other part into which we +came. It seemed to us almost incredible, that so many large canoes and +houses could be built in so short a space as eight months. The iron tools +which they had got from the English, and other nations who have lately +touched at the isle, had no doubt greatly accelerated the work; and they +had no want of hands, as I shall soon make appear. + +The number of hogs was another thing that excited our wonder. Probably they +were not so scarce when we were here before, as we imagined, and not +chusing to part with any, they had conveyed them out of our sight. Be this +as it may, we now not only got as many as we could consume during our stay, +but some to take to sea with us. + +When I was last here, I conceived but an unfavourable opinion of Otoo's +talents. The improvements since made in the island convinced me of my +mistake; and that he must have been a man of good parts. He had indeed some +judicious sensible men about him, who, I believe, had a great share in the +government. In truth, we know not how far his power extended as king, nor +how far he could command the assistance of the other chiefs, or was +controulable by them. It should seem, however, that all had contributed +towards bringing the isle to its present flourishing state. We cannot doubt +that there were divisions amongst the great men of this state, as well as +of most others; or else why did the king tell us, that Towha the admiral, +and Poatatou were not his friends? They were two leading chiefs; and he +must have been jealous of them on account of their great power; for on +every occasion he seemed to court their interest. We had reason to believe +that they raised by far the greatest number of vessels and men, to go +against Eimea, and were to be two of the commanders in the expedition, +which we were told was to take place five days after our departure. +Waheatoua, king of Tiarabou, was to send a fleet to join that of Otoo, to +assist him in reducing to obedience the chief of Eimea. I think, we were +told, that young prince was one of the commanders. One would suppose that +so small an island as Eimea would hardly have attempted to make head +against the united force of these two kingdoms, but have endeavoured to +settle matters by negociation. Yet we heard of no such thing; on the +contrary, every one spoke of nothing but fighting. Towha told us more than +once, that he should die there; which, in some measure, shews that he +thought of it. Oedidee told me the battle would be fought at sea; in which +case the other must have a fleet nearly equal, if not quite, to the one +going against them; which I think was not probable. It was therefore more +likely they would remain ashore upon the defensive; as we were told they +did about five or six years ago, when attacked by the people of Tiarabou, +whom they repulsed. Five general officers were to command in this +expedition; of which number Otoo was one; and if they named them in order +according to the posts they held, Otoo was only the third in command. This +seems probable enough; as being but a young man, he could not have +sufficient experience to command such an expedition, where the greatest +skill and judgment seemed to be necessary. I confess I would willingly have +staid five days longer, had I been sure the expedition would have then +taken place; but it rather seemed that they wanted us to be gone first. We +had been all along told, it would be ten moons before it took place; and it +was not till the evening before we sailed, that Otoo and Towha told us it +was to be in five days after we were gone; as if it were necessary to have +that time to put every thing in order; for, while we lay there, great part +of their time and attention was taken up with us. I had observed that for +several days before we sailed, Otoo and the other chiefs had ceased to +solicit my assistance, as they were continually doing at first, till I +assured Otoo that, if they got their fleet ready in time, I would sail with +them down to Eimea: After this I heard no more of it. They probably had +taken it into consideration, and concluded themselves safer without me; +well knowing it would be in my power to give the victory to whom I pleased; +and that, at the best, I might thwart some favourite custom, or run away +with the spoils. But be their reasons what they might, they certainly +wanted us to be gone, before they undertook any thing. Thus we were +deprived of seeing the whole fleet equipped on this occasion; and perhaps +of being spectators of a sea-fight, and by that means, gaining some +knowledge of their manoeuvres. + +I never could learn what number of vessels were to go on this expedition. +We knew of no more than two hundred and ten, besides smaller canoes to +serve as transports, &c. and the fleet of Tiarabou, the strength of which +we never learnt. Nor could I ever learn the number of men necessary to man +this fleet; and whenever I asked the question, the answer was _Warou, +warou, warou te Tata_, that is, many, many, many, men; as if the number +far exceeded their arithmetic. If we allow forty men to each war-canoe, and +four to each of the others, which is thought a moderate computation, the +number will amount to nine thousand. An astonishing number to be raised in +four districts; and one of them, viz. Matavia, did not equip a fourth part +of its fleet. The fleet of Tiarabou is not included in this account; and +many other districts might be arming, which we knew nothing of. I however +believe, that the whole isle did not arm on this occasion; for we saw not +the least preparations making in Oparree. From what we saw and could learn, +I am clearly of opinion that the chief or chiefs of each district +superintended the equipping of the fleet belonging to that district; but +after they are equipped, they must pass in review before the king, and be +approved of by him. By this means he knows the state of the whole, before +they assemble to go on service. + +It hath been already observed, that the number of war-canoes belonging to +Attahourou and Ahopata was a hundred and sixty; to Tettaba, forty; and to +Matavia, ten; and that this district did not equip one-fourth part of their +number. If we suppose every district in the island, of which there are +forty-three, to raise and equip the same number of war-canoes as Tettaha, +we shall find, by this estimate, that the whole island can raise and equip +one thousand seven hundred and twenty war-canoes, and sixty-eight thousand +able men; allowing forty men to each canoe. And as these cannot amount to +above one-third part of the number of both sexes, children included, the +whole island cannot contain less than two hundred and four thousand +inhabitants, a number which at first sight exceeded my belief. But when I +came to reflect on the vast swarms which appeared wherever we came, I was +convinced that this estimate was not much, if at all, too great. There +cannot be a greater proof of the riches and fertility of Otaheite (not +forty leagues in circuit) than its supporting such a number of inhabitants. + +This island made formerly but one kingdom; how long it has been divided +into two, I cannot pretend to say; but I believe not long. The kings of +Tiarabou are a branch of the family of those of Opoureonu; at present, the +two are nearly related; and, I think, the former is, in some measure, +dependent on the latter. Otoo is styled _Earee de hie_ of the whole +island; and we have been told that Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, must +uncover before him, in the same manner as the meanest of his subjects. This +homage is due to Otoo as _Earee de hie_ of the isle, to Tarevatou, his +brother, and his second sister; to the one as heir, and to the other as +heir apparent; his eldest sister being married, is not entitled to this +homage. + +The _Eowas_ and _Whannos_, we have sometimes seen covered before +the king; but whether by courtesy, or by virtue of their office, we never +could learn. These men, who are the principal persons about the king, and +form his court, are generally, if not always, his relations; Tee, whom I +have so often mentioned, was one of them. We have been told, that the +_Eowas_, who have the first rank, attend in their turns, a certain +number each day, which occasioned us to call them lords in waiting; but +whether this was really so, I cannot say. We seldom found Tee absent; +indeed his attendance was necessary, as being best able to negociate +matters between us and them, on which service he was always employed; and +he executed it, I have reason to believe, to the satisfaction of both +parties. + +It is to be regretted, that we know little more of this government than the +general out-line; for, of its subdivisions, classes, or orders of the +constituent parts, how disposed, or in what manner connected, so as to form +one body politic, we know but little. We are sure, however, that it is of +the feudal kind; and if we may judge from what we have seen, it has +sufficient stability, and is by no means badly constructed. + +The _Eowas_ and _Whannos_ always eat with the king; indeed I do +not know if any one is excluded from this privilege but the +_Toutous_. For as to the women, they are out of the question, as they +never eat with the men, let their rank be ever so much elevated. + +Notwithstanding this kind of kingly establishment, there was very little +about Otoo's person or court by which a stranger could distinguish the king +from the subject. I seldom saw him dressed in any thing but a common piece +of cloth wrapped round his loins; so that he seemed to avoid all +unnecessary pomp, and even to demean himself more than any other of the +_Earees_. I have seen him work at a paddle, in coming to and going +from the ship, in common with the other paddlers; and even when some of his +_Toutous_ sat looking on. All have free access to him, and speak to +him wherever they see him, without the least ceremony; such is the easy +freedom which every individual of this happy isle enjoys. I have observed +that the chiefs of these isles are more beloved by the bulk of the people, +than feared. May we not from hence conclude, that the government is mild +and equitable? + +We have mentioned that Waheatoua or Tiarabou is related to Otoo. The same +may be said of the chiefs of Eimea, Tapamanoo, Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, +and Bolabola; for they are all related to the royal family of Otaheite. It +is a maxim with the _Earees_, and others of superior rank, never to +intermarry with the _Toutous_, or others of inferior rank. Probably +this custom is one great inducement to the establishing of the societies +called _Eareeoies_. It is certain that these societies greatly prevent +the increase of the superior classes of people of which they are composed, +and do not at all interfere with the inferiors, or _Toutous_; for I +never heard of one of these being an _Eareeoy_. Nor did I ever hear +that a _Toutou_ could rise in life above the rank in which he was born. + +I have occasionally mentioned the extraordinary fondness the people of +Otaheite shewed for red feathers. These they call _Oora_, and they are +as valuable here as jewels are in Europe, especially those which they call +_Ooravine_, and grow on the head of the green paraquet: Indeed, all red +feathers are esteemed, but none equally with these; and they are such good +judges as to know very well how to distinguish one sort from another. Many +of our people attempted to deceive them by dying other feathers; but I +never heard that any one succeeded. These feathers they make up in little +bunches, consisting of eight or ten, and fix them to the end of a small +cord about three or four inches long, which is made of the strong outside +fibres of the cocoa-nut, twisted so hard that it is like a wire, and serves +as a handle to the bunch. Thus prepared, they are used as symbols of the +_Eatuas_, or divinities, in all their religious ceremonies. I have +often seen them hold one of these bunches, and sometimes only two or three +feathers, between the fore finger and thumb, and say a prayer, not one word +of which I could ever understand. Whoever comes to this island, will do +well to provide himself with red feathers, the finest and smallest that are +to be got. He must also have a good stock of axes, and hatchets, spike- +nails, files, knives, looking-glasses, beads, &c. Sheets and shirts are +much sought after, especially by the ladies; as many of our gentlemen found +by experience. + +The two goats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when we were last here, +seemed to promise fair for answering the end for which they were put on +shore. The ewe soon after had two female kids, which were now so far grown +as to be nearly ready to propagate; and the old ewe was again with kid. The +people seemed to be very fond of them, and they to like their situation as +well; for they were in excellent condition. From this circumstance we may +hope that, in a few years, they will have some to spare to their +neighbours; and by that means they may in time spread over all the isles in +this ocean. The sheep which we left died soon after, excepting one, which +we understood was yet alive. We have also furnished them with a stock of +cats; no less than twenty having been given away at this isle, besides +those which were left at Ulietea and Huaheine. + +CHAPTER XIV. + +_The Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Huaheine; with an Account of an +Expedition into the Island, and several other Incidents which happened +while she lay there._ + +1774 May + +At one o'clock in the afternoon, on the 15th, we anchored in the north +entrance of O'Wharre harbour, in the island of Huaheine; hoisted out the +boats, warped into a proper birth, and moored with the bower and kedge +anchor, not quite a cable's length from the shore. While this was doing, +several of the natives made us a visit, amongst whom was old Oree the +chief, who brought a hog and some other articles, which he presented to me, +with the usual ceremony. + +Next morning, the natives began to bring us fruit. I returned Oree's visit, +and made my present to him; one article of which was red feathers. Two or +three of these the chief took in his right hand, holding them up between +the finger and thumb, and said a prayer, as I understood, which was little +noticed by any present. Two hogs were soon after put into my boat, and he +and several of his friends came on board and dined with us. After dinner +Oree gave me to understand what articles would be most acceptable to him +and his friends, which were chiefly axes and nails. Accordingly I gave him +what he asked, and desired he would distribute them to the others, which he +did, seemingly to the satisfaction of every one. A youth about ten or +twelve years of age, either his son or grandson, seemed to be the person of +most note, and had the greatest share. + +After the distribution was over, they all returned ashore. Mr Forster and +his party being out in the country botanizing, his servant, a feeble man, +was beset by five or six fellows, who would have stripped him, if that +moment one of the party had not come to his assistance; after which they +made off with a hatchet they had got from him. + +On the 17th, I went ashore to look for the chief, in order to complain of +the outrage committed as above; but he was not in the neighbourhood. Being +ashore in the afternoon, a person came and told me Oree wanted to see me. I +went with the man, and was conducted to a large house, where the chief and +several other persons of note were assembled in council, as well as I could +understand. After I was seated, and some conversation had passed among +them, Oree made a speech, and was answered by another. I understood no more +of either, than just to know it regarded the robbery committed the day +before. The chief then began to assure me, that neither he, nor any one +present (which were the principal chiefs in the neighbourhood) had any hand +in it; and desired me to kill, with the guns, all those which had. I +assured him, that I was satisfied that neither he nor those present were at +all concerned in the affair; and that I should do with the fellows as he +desired, or any others who were guilty of the like crimes. Having asked +where the fellows were, and desired they would bring them to me, that I +might do with them as he had said, his answer was, they were gone to the +mountains, and he could not get them. Whether this was the case or not, I +will not pretend to say. I knew fair means would never make them deliver +them up; and I had no intention to try others. So the affair dropt, and the +council broke up. + +In the evening, some of the gentlemen went to a dramatic entertainment. The +piece represented a girl as running away with us from Otaheite; which was +in some degree true; as a young woman had taken a passage with us down to +Ulietea, and happened now to be present at the representation of her own +adventures; which had such an effect upon her, that it was with great +difficulty our gentlemen could prevail upon her to see the play out, or to +refrain from tears while it was acting. The piece concluded with the +reception she was supposed to meet with from her friends at her return; +which was not a very favourable one. These people can add little extempore +pieces to their entertainments, when they see occasion. Is it not then +reasonable to suppose that it was intended as a satire against this girl, +and to discourage others from following her steps? + +In the morning of the 18th, Oree came on board with a present of fruit, +stayed dinner, and in the afternoon desired to see some great guns fired, +shotted, which I complied with. The reason of his making this request was +his hearing, from Oedidee, and our Otaheitean passengers, that we had so +done at their island. The chief would have had us fire at the hills; but I +did not approve of that, lest the shot should fall short and do some +mischief. Besides, the effect was better seen in the water. Some of the +petty officers, who had leave to go into the country for their amusement, +took two of the natives with them to be their guides, and to carry their +bags, containing nails, hatchets, &c. the current cash we traded with here; +which the fellows made off with in the following artful manner: The +gentlemen had with them two muskets for shooting birds. After a shower of +rain, their guides pointed out some for them to shoot. One of the muskets +having missed fire several times, and the other having gone off, the +instant the fellows saw themselves secure from both, they ran away, leaving +the gentlemen gazing after them with so much surprise, that no one had +presence of mind to pursue them. + +The 19th, showery morning; fair afternoon, nothing happened worthy of note. + +Early in the morning of the 20th, three of the officers set out on a +shooting party, rather contrary to my inclination; as I found the natives, +at least some of them, were continually watching every opportunity to rob +straggling parties, and were daily growing more daring. About three o'clock +in the afternoon, I got intelligence that they were seized and stripped of +every thing they had about them. Upon this I immediately went on shore with +a boat's crew, accompanied by Mr Forster, and took possession of a large +house with all its effects, and two chiefs whom I found in it; but this we +did in such a manner, that they hardly knew what we were about, being +unwilling to alarm the neighbourhood. In this situation I remained till I +heard the officers had got back safe, and had all their things restored to +them: Then I quitted the house; and presently after every thing in it was +carried off. When I got on board I was informed of the whole affair by the +officers themselves. Some little insult on their part, induced the natives +to seize their guns, on which a scuffle ensued, some chiefs interfered, +took the officers out of the crowd, and caused every thing which had been +taken from them to be restored. This was at a place where we had before +been told, that a set of fellows had formed themselves into a gang, with a +resolution to rob every one who should go that way. It should seem from +what followed, that the chief could not prevent this, or put a stop to +these repeated outrages. I did not see him this evening, as he was not come +into the neighbourhood when I went on board; but I learnt from Oedidee that +he came soon after, and was so concerned at what had happened that he wept. + +Day-light no sooner broke upon us on the 21st, than we saw upwards of sixty +canoes under sail going out of the harbour, and steering over for Ulietea. +On our enquiring the reason, we were told that the people in them were +_Eareeois_, and were going to visit their brethren in the neighbouring +isles. One may almost compare these men to free-masons; they tell us they +assist each other when need requires; they seem to have customs among them +which they either will not, or cannot explain. Oedidee told us he was one; +Tupia was one; and yet I have not been able to get any tolerable idea of +this set of men, from either of them. Oedidee denies that the children they +have by their mistresses are put to death, as we understood from Tupia and +others. I have had some conversation with Omai on this subject, and find +that he confirms every thing that is said upon it in the narrative of my +former voyage. + +Oedidee, who generally slept on shore, came off with a message from Oree, +desiring I would land with twenty-two men, to go with him to chastise the +robbers. The messenger brought with him, by way of assisting his memory, +twenty-two pieces of leaves, a method customary amongst them. On my +receiving this extraordinary message, I went to the chief for better +information; and all I could learn of him was, that these fellows were a +sort of banditti, who had formed themselves into a body, with a resolution +of seizing and robbing our people wherever they found them, and were now +armed for that purpose: For which reason he wanted me to go along with him, +to chastise them. I told him, if I went they would fly to the mountains; +but he said, they were resolved to fight us, and therefore desired I would +destroy both them and their house; but begged I would spare those in the +neighbourhood, as also the canoes and the _Whenooa_. By way of +securing these, he presented me with a pig as a peace-offering for the +_Whenooa_. It was too small to be meant for any thing but a ceremony +of this kind. This sensible old chief could see (what perhaps none of the +others ever thought of) that every thing in the neighbourhood was at our +mercy, and therefore took care to secure them by this method, which I +suppose to be of weight with them. When I returned on board, I considered +of the chiefs request, which upon the whole appeared an extraordinary one. +I however resolved to go, lest these fellows should be (by our refusal) +encouraged to commit greater acts of violence; and, as their proceeding +would soon reach Ulietea, where I intended to go next, the people there +might be induced to treat us in the same manner, or worse, they being more +numerous. Accordingly I landed with forty-eight men, including officers, Mr +Forster, and some other of the gentlemen. The chief joined us with a few +people, and we began to march, in search of the banditti, in good order. As +we proceeded, the chief's party increased like a snow-ball. Oedidee, who +was with us, began to be alarmed, observing that many of the people in our +company were of the very party we were going against, and at last telling +us, that they were only leading us to some place where they could attack us +to advantage. Whether there was any truth in this, or it was only Oedidee's +fears, I will not pretend to say. He, however, was the only person we could +confide in. And we regulated our motions according to the information he +had given us. After marching some miles, we got intelligence that the men +we were going after had fled to the mountains; but I think this was not +till I had declared to the chief I would proceed no farther. For we were +then about crossing a deep valley, bounded on each side by steep rocks, +where a few men with stones only might have made our retreat difficult, if +their intentions were what Oedidee had suggested, and which he still +persisted in. Having come to a resolution to return, we marched back in the +same order as we went, and saw, in several places, people, who had been +following us, coming down from the sides of the hills with their arms in +their hands, which they instantly quitted, and hid in the bushes, when they +saw they were discovered by us. This seemed to prove that there must have +been some foundation for what Oedidee had said; but I cannot believe that +the chief had any such design, whatever the people might have. In our +return we halted at a convenient place to refresh ourselves. I ordered the +people to bring us some cocoa-nuts, which they did immediately. Indeed, by +this time, I believe many of them wished us on board out of the way; for +although no one step was taken that could give them the least alarm, they +certainly were in terror. Two chiefs brought each of them a pig, a dog, and +some young plantain trees, the usual peace-offerings, and with due ceremony +presented them singly to me. Another brought a very large hog, with which +he followed us to the ship. After this we continued our course to the +landing-place, where I caused several vollies to be fired, to convince the +natives that we could support a continual fire. This being done, we all +embarked and went on board; and soon after the chief following, brought +with him a quantity of fruit, and sat down with us to dinner. We had scarce +dined before more fruit was brought us by others, and two hogs; so that we +were likely to make more by this little excursion than by all the presents +we had made them. It certainly gave them some alarm to see so strong a +party of men march into their country; and probably gave them a better +opinion of fire-arms than they had before. For I believe they had but an +indifferent, or rather contemptible, idea of muskets in general, having +never seen any fired but at birds, &c. by such of our people as used to +straggle about the country, the most of them but indifferent marksmen, +losing generally two shots out of three, their pieces often, missing fire, +and being slow in charging. Of all this they had taken great notice, and +concluded, as well they might, that fire-arms were not so terrible things +as they had been taught to believe. + +When the chiefs took leave in the evening, they promised to bring us next +day a very large supply of provisions. In the article of fruit they were as +good as their word, but of hogs, which we most wanted, they brought far +less than we expected. Going ashore in the afternoon, I found the chief +just sitting down to dinner. I cannot say what was the occasion of his +dining so late. As soon as he was seated, several people began chewing the +pepper-root; about a pint of the juice of which, without any mixture, was +the first dish, and was dispatched in a moment. A cup of it was presented +to me; but the manner of brewing it was at this time sufficient. Oedidee +was not so nice, but took what I refused. After this the chief washed his +mouth with cocoa-nut water; then he eat of repe, plantain, and mahee, of +each not a little; and, lastly, finished his repast by eating, or rather +drinking, about three pints of _popoie_, which is made of bread-fruit, +plantains, mahee, &c. beat together and diluted with water till it is of +the consistence of a custard. This was at the outside of his house, in the +open air; for at this time a play was acting within, as was done almost +every day in the neighbourhood; but they were such poor performances that I +never attended. I observed that, after the juice had been squeezed out of +the chewed pepper-root for the chief, the fibres were carefully picked up +and taken away by one of his servants. On my asking what he intended to do +with it, I was told he would put water to it, and strain it again. Thus he +would make what I will call small beer. + +The 23d, wind easterly, as it had been ever since we left Otaheite. Early +in the morning, we unmoored, and at eight weighed and put to sea. The good +old chief was the last man who went out of the ship. At parting I told him +we should see each other no more; at which he wept, and said, "Let your +sons come, we will treat them well." Oree is a good man, in the utmost +sense of the word; but many of the people are far from being of that +disposition, and seem to take advantage of his old age; Teraderre, his +grandson and heir, being yet but a youth. The gentle treatment the people +of this isle ever met with from me, and the careless and imprudent manner +in which many of our people had rambled about in the country, from a vain +opinion that firearms rendered them invincible, encouraged many at Huaheine +to commit acts of violence, which no man at Otaheite ever durst attempt. + +During our stay here we got bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c. more than we could +well-consume, but not hogs enough by far to supply our daily expence; and +yet it did not appear that they were scarce in the isle. It must be +allowed, however, that the number we took away, when last here, must have +thinned them greatly, and at the same time stocked the isle with our +articles. Besides, we now wanted a proper assortment of trade; what we had +being nearly exhausted, and the few remaining red feathers being here but +of little value, when compared to the estimation they stand in at Otaheite. +This obliged me to set the smiths to work to make different sorts of iron +tools, nails, &c. in order to enable me to procure refreshments at the +other isles, and to support my credit and influence among the natives. + +CHAPTER XV. + +_Arrival at Ulietea; with an Account of the Reception we met with there, +and the several Incidents which happened during our Stay. A Report of two +ships being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the Island; and the Regret +the Inhabitants shewed on the Occasion. The Character of Oedidee; with some +general Observations on the Islands._ + +1774 May + +As soon as we were clear of the harbour, we made sail, and stood over for +the South end of Ulietea. Oree took the opportunity to send a man with a +message to Opoony. Being little wind all the latter part of the day, it was +dark before we reached the west side of the isle, where we spent the night. +The same light variable wind continued till ten o'clock next morning, when +the trade-wind at east prevailed, and we ventured to ply up to the harbour, +first sending a boat to lie in anchorage in the entrance. After making a +few trips, we got before the channel, and with all our sails set, and the +head-way the ship had acquired, shut her in as far as she would go; then +dropped the anchor, and took in the sails. This is the method of getting +into most of the harbours which are on the lee-side of these isles; for the +channels, in general, are too narrow to ply in: We were now anchored +between the two points of the reef which form the entrance; each not more +than two-thirds the length of a cable from us, and on which the sea broke +with such height and violence, as to people less acquainted with the place, +would have been terrible. Having all our boats out with anchors and warps +in them, which were presently run out, the ship warped into safety, where +we dropt anchor for the night. While this work was going forward, my old +friend Oree the chief, and several more, came to see us. The chief came not +empty. + +Next day we warped the ship into a proper birth, and moored her, so as to +command all the shores around us. In the mean time a party of us went +ashore to pay the chief a visit, and to make the customary present. At our +first entering his house, we were met by four or five old women, weeping +and lamenting, as it were, most bitterly, and at the same time cutting +their heads, with instruments made of shark's teeth, till the blood ran +plentifully down their faces and on their shoulders. What was still worse, +we were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that +means were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony (for it was merely such) +being over, they went out, washed themselves, and immediately after +appeared as cheerful as any of the company. Having made some little stay, +and given my present to the chief and his friends, he put a hog and some +fruit into my boat, and came on board with us to dinner. In the afternoon, +we had a vast number of people and canoes about us, from different parts of +the island. They all took up their quarters in our neighbourhood, where +they remained feasting for some days. We understood the most of them were +_Eareeoies_. + +The 26th afforded nothing remarkable, excepting that Mr Forster, in his +botanical excursions, saw a burying-place for dogs, which they called +_Marai no te Oore_. But I think we ought not to look upon this as one +of their customs; because few dogs die a natural death, being generally, if +not always, killed and eaten, or else given as an offering to the gods. +Probably this might be a _Marai_ or altar, where this sort of offering +was made; or it might have been the whim of some person to have buried his +favourite dog in this manner. But be it as it will, I cannot think it is a +general custom in the nation; and, for my own part, I neither saw nor heard +of any such thing before. + +Early in the morning of the 27th, Oree, his wife, son, daughter, and +several more of his friends, made us a visit, and brought with them a good +quantity of all manner of refreshments; little having as yet been got from +any body else. They staid dinner; after which a party of us accompanied +them on shore, where we were entertained with a play, called _Mididij +Harramy_, which signifies the _Child is coming_. It concluded with +the representation of a woman in labour, acted by a set of great brawny +fellows, one of whom at last brought forth a strapping boy, about six feet +high, who ran about the stage, dragging after him a large wisp of straw +which hung by a string from his middle. I had an opportunity of seeing this +acted another time, when I observed, that the moment they had got hold of +the fellow who represented the child, they flattened or pressed his nose. +From this I judged, that they do so by their children when born, which may +be the reason why all in general have flat noses. This part of the play, +from its newness, and the ludicrous manner in which it was performed, gave +us, the first time we saw it, some entertainment, and caused a loud laugh, +which might be the reason why they acted it so often afterwards. But this, +like all their other pieces, could entertain us no more than once; +especially as we could gather little from them, for want of knowing more of +their language. + +The 28th was spent by me in much the same manner as the preceding day, viz. +in entertaining my friends, and being entertained by them. Mr Forster and +his party in the country botanizing. + +Next morning, we found several articles had been stolen, out of our boats +lying at the buoy, about sixty or seventy yards from the ship. As soon as I +was informed of it, I went to the chief to acquaint him therewith. I found +that he not only knew they were stolen, but by whom, and where they were; +and he went immediately with me in my boat in pursuit of them. After +proceeding a good way along shore, towards the south end of the island, the +chief ordered us to land near some houses, where we did not wait long +before all the articles were brought to us, except the pinnace's iron +tiller, which I was told was still farther off. But when I wanted to go +after it, I found the chief unwilling to proceed; and he actually gave me +the slip; and retired into the country. Without him I knew I could do +nothing. The people began to be alarmed when they saw I was for going +farther; by which I concluded that the tiller was out of their reach also. +I therefore sent one of them to the chief to desire him to return. He +returned accordingly; when we sat down, and had some victuals set before +us, thinking perhaps that, as I had not breakfasted, I must be hungry, and +not in a good humour. Thus I was amused, till two hogs were produced, which +they entreated me to accept. This I did, and then their fears vanished; and +I thought myself not ill off, in having gotten two good hogs for a thing +which seemed to be quite out of my reach. Matters being thus settled, we +returned on board, and had the company of the chief and his son to dinner. +After that we all went ashore, where a play was acted for the entertainment +of such as would spend their time in looking at it. Besides these plays, +which the chief caused frequently to be acted, there was a set of strolling +players in the neighbourhood, who performed everyday. But their pieces +seemed to be so much alike, that we soon grew tired of them; especially as +we could not collect any interesting circumstances from them. We, our ship, +and our country, were frequently brought on the stage; but on what account +I know not. It can hardly be doubted, that this was designed as a +compliment to us, and probably not acted but when some of us were present. +I generally appeared at Oree's theatre towards the close of the play, and +twice at the other, in order to give my mite to the actors. The only +actress at Oree's theatre was his daughter, a pretty brown girl, at whose +shrine, on these occasions, many offerings were made by her numerous +votaries. This, I believe, was one great inducement to her father's giving +us these entertainments so often. + +Early in the morning of the 30th, I set out with the two boats, accompanied +by the two Mr Forsters; Oedidee, the chief, his wife, son, and daughter, +for an estate which Oedidee called his, situated at the north end of the +island. There I was promised to have hogs and fruit in abundance; but when +we came there, we found that poor Oedidee could not command one single +thing, whatever right he might have to the _Whenooa_, which was now in +possession of his brother, who, soon after we landed, presented to me, with +the usual ceremony, two pigs. I made him a very handsome present in return, +and Oedidee gave him every thing he had left of what he had collected +during the time he was with us. + +After this ceremony was over, I ordered one of the pigs to be killed and +dressed for dinner, and attended myself to the whole operation, which was +as follows:--They first strangled the hog, which was done by three men; the +hog being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty strong stick across +his throat, and pressed with all their might on each end; the third man +held his hind legs, kept him on his back, and plugged up his fundament with +grass, I suppose to prevent any air from passing or repassing that way. In +this manner they held him for about ten minutes before he was quite dead. +In the mean time, some hands were employed in making a fire, to heat the +oven, which was close by. As soon as the hog was quite dead, they laid him +on the fire, and burnt or singed the hair, so that it came off with almost +the same ease as if it had been scalded. As the hair was got off one part, +another was applied to the fire till they had got off the whole, yet not so +clean but that another operation was necessary; which was to carry it to +the sea side, and there give it a good scrubbing with sandy stones, and +sand. This brought off all the scurf, &c. which the fire had left on. After +well washing off the sand and dirt, the carcase was brought again to the +former place, and laid on clean green leaves, in order to be opened. They +first ripped up the skin of the belly, and took out the fat or lard from +between the skin and the flesh, which they laid on a large green leaf. The +belly was then ripped open, and the entrails taken out, and carried away in +a basket, so that I know not what became of them; but am certain they were +not thrown away. The blood was next taken out, and put into a large leaf, +and then the lard, which was put to the other fat. The hog was now washed +clean, both inside and out, with fresh water, and several hot stones put +into his belly, which were shaken in under the breast, and green leaves +crammed in upon them. By this time the oven was sufficiently heated; what +fire remained was taken away, together with some of the hot stones; the +rest made a kind of pavement in the bottom of the hole or oven, and were +covered with leaves, on which the hog was placed on his belly. The lard and +fat, after being washed with water, were put into a vessel, made just then +of the green bark of the plantain tree, together with two or three hot +stones, and placed on one side the hog. A hot stone was put to the blood, +which was tied up in the leaf, and put into the oven; as also bread-fruit +and plantains. Then the whole was covered with green leaves, on which were +laid the remainder of the hot stones; over them were leaves; then any sort +of rubbish they could lay their hands on; finishing the operation by well +covering the whole with earth. While the victuals were baking, a table was +spread with green leaves on the floor, at one end of a large boat-house. At +the close of two hours and ten minutes, the oven was opened, and all the +victuals taken out. Those of the natives who dined with us, sat down by +themselves, at one end of the table, and we at the other. The hog was +placed before us, and the fat and blood before them, on which they chiefly +dined, and said it was _Mamity_, very good victuals; and we not only +said, but thought, the same of the pork. The hog weighed about fifty +pounds. Some parts about the ribs I thought rather overdone, but the more +fleshy parts were excellent; and the skin, which by the way of our dressing +can hardly be eaten, had, by this method, a taste and flavour superior to +any thing I ever met with of the kind. I have now only to add, that during +the whole of the various operations, they exhibited a cleanliness well +worthy of imitation. I have been the more particular in this account, +because I do not remember that any of us had seen the whole process before; +nor is it well described in the narrative of my former voyage. + +While dinner was preparing, I took a view of this _Whenooa_ of +Oedidee. It was a small, but a pleasant spot; and the houses were so +disposed as to form a very pretty village, which is very rarely the case at +these isles, Soon after we had dined, we set out for the ship, with the +other pig, and a few races of plantains, which proved to be the sum total +of our great expectations. + +In our return to the ship, we put ashore at a place where, in the corner of +a house, we saw four wooden images, each two feet long, standing on a +shelf, having a piece of cloth round their middle, and a kind of turban on +their heads, in which were stuck long feathers of cocks. A person in the +house told us they were _Eatua no te Toutou_, gods of the servants or +slaves. I doubt if this be sufficient to conclude that they pay them divine +worship, and that the servants or slaves are not allowed the same gods as +men of more elevated rank; I never heard that Tupia made any such +distinction, or that they worshipped any visible thing whatever. Besides, +these were the first wooden gods we had seen in any of the isles; and all +the authority we had for their being such, was the bare word of perhaps a +superstitious person, and whom, too, we were liable to misunderstand. It +must be allowed that the people of this isle are in general more +superstitious than at Otaheite. At the first visit I made the chief after +our arrival, he desired I would not suffer any of my people to shoot herons +and wood-peckers; birds as sacred with them as robin-red-breasts, swallows, +&c. are with many old women in England. Tupia, who was a priest, and well +acquainted with their religion, customs, traditions, &c. paid little or no +regard to these birds. I mention this, because some amongst us were of +opinion that these birds are their _Eatuas_, or gods. We indeed fell +into this opinion when I was here in 1769, and into some others still more +absurd, which we had undoubtedly adopted, if Tupia had not undeceived us. A +man of his knowledge and understanding we have not since met with, and +consequently have added nothing to his account of their religion but +superstitious notions. + +On the 31st, the people knowing that we should sail soon, began to bring +more fruit on board than usual. Among those who came was a young man who +measured six feet four inches and six-tenths; and his sister, younger, than +him, measured five feet ten inches and a half. + +1774 June + +A brisk trade for hogs and fruit continued on the 1st of June. On the 2d, +in the afternoon, we got intelligence that, three days before, two ships +had arrived at Huaheine. The same report said, the one was commanded by +Mr Banks, and the other by Captain Furneaux. The man who brought the +account said, he was made drunk on board one of them, and described the +persons of Mr Banks and Captain Furneaux so well, that I had not the +least doubt of the truth, and began to consider about sending a boat +over that very evening with orders to Captain Furneaux, when a man, a +friend of Mr Forster, happened to come on board and denied the whole, +saying it was _wà warre_, a lie. The man from whom we had the intelligence +was now gone, so that we could not confront them, and there were none +else present who knew any thing about it but by report; so that I laid +aside sending over a boat till I should be better informed. This evening +we entertained the people with fire-works, on one of the little isles +near the entrance of the harbour. + +I had fixed on the next day for sailing, but the intelligence from Huaheine +put a stop to it. The chief had promised to bring the man on board who +first brought the account; but he was either not to be found, or would not +appear. In the morning, the people were divided in their opinions; but in +the afternoon, all said it was a false report. I had sent Mr Clerke, in the +morning, to the farthest part of the island, to make enquiries there; he +returned without learning any thing satisfactory. In short, the report +appeared now too ill founded to authorize me to send a boat over, or to +wait any longer here; and therefore, early in the morning of the 4th, I got +every thing in readiness to sail. Oree the chief, and his whole family, +came on board, to take their last farewell, accompanied by Oo-oo-rou, the +_Earee di hi_, and Boba, the _Earee_ of Otaha, and several of +their friends. None of them came empty; but Oo-oo-rou brought a pretty +large present, this being his first and only visit. I distributed amongst +them almost every thing I had left. The very hospitable manner in which I +had ever been received by these people, had endeared them to me, and given +them a just title to everything in my power to grant. I questioned them +again about the ships at Huaheine; and they all, to a man, denied that any +were there. During the time these people remained on board, they were +continually importuning me to return. The chief, his wife and daughter, but +especially the two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. I will not pretend +to say whether it was real or feigned grief they shewed on this occasion. +Perhaps there was a mixture of both; but were I to abide by my own opinion +only, I should believe it was real. At last, when we were about to weigh, +they took a most affectionate leave. Oree's last request was for me to +return; when he saw he could not obtain that promise, he asked the name of +my _Marai_ (burying-place). As strange a question as this was, I +hesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney; the parish in which I live when +in London. I was made to repeat it several times over till they could +pronounce it; then, Stepney _Marai no Toote_ was echoed through an +hundred mouths at once. I afterwards found the same question had been put +to Mr Forster by a man on shore; but he gave a different, and indeed more +proper answer, by saying, no man, who used the sea, could say where he +should be buried. It is the custom, at these isles, for all the great +families to have burial-places of their own, where their remains are +interred. These go with the estate to the next heir. The _Marai_ at +Oparee in Otaheite, when Tootaha swayed the sceptre, was called _Marai no +Tootaha_; but now it is called _Marai no Otoo_. What greater proof +could we have of these people esteeming us as friends, than their wishing +to remember us, even beyond the period of our lives? They had been +repeatedly told that we should see them no more; they then wanted to know +where we were to mingle with our parent dust. As I could not promise, or +even suppose, that more English ships would be sent to those isles, our +faithful companion Oedidee chose to remain in his native country. But he +left us with a regret fully demonstrative of the esteem he bore to us; nor +could any thing but the fear of never returning, have torn him from us. +When the chief teased me so much about returning, I sometimes gave such +answers as left them hopes. Oedidee would instantly catch at this, take me +on one side, and ask me over again. In short, I have not words to describe +the anguish which appeared in this young man's breast when he went away. He +looked up at the ship, burst into tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. +The maxim, that a prophet has no honour in his own country, was never more +fully verified than in this youth. At Otaheite he might have had any thing +that was in their power to bestow; whereas here he was not in the least +noticed. He was a youth of good parts, and, like most of his countrymen, of +a docile, gentle, and humane disposition, but in a manner wholly ignorant +of their religion, government, manners, customs, and traditions; +consequently no material knowledge could have been gathered from him, had I +brought him away. Indeed, he would have been a better specimen of the +nation, in every respect, than Omai. Just as Oedidee was going out of the +ship, he asked me to _Tatou_ some _Parou_ for him, in order to +shew the commanders of any other ships which might stop here. I complied +with his request, gave him a certificate of the time he had been with us, +and recommended him to the notice of those who might afterwards touch at +the island. + +We did not get clear of our friends till eleven o'clock, when we weighed, +and put to sea; but Oedidee did not leave us till we were almost out of the +harbour. He staid, in order to fire some guns; for it being his majesty's +birthday, we fired the salute at going away. + +When I first came to these islands, I had some thought of visiting Tupia's +famous Bolabola. But as I had now got on board a plentiful supply of all +manner of refreshments, and the route I had in view allowing me no time to +spare, I laid this design aside, and directed my course to the west; taking +our final leave of these happy isles, on which benevolent Nature has spread +her luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand. The natives, copying the bounty of +Nature, are equally liberal; contributing plentifully and cheerfully to the +wants of navigators. During the six weeks we had remained at them, we had +fresh pork, and all the fruits which were in season, in the utmost +profusion; besides fish at Otaheite, and fowls at the other isles. All +these articles we got in exchange for axes, hatchets, nails, chissels, +cloth, red feathers, beads, knives, scissars, looking-glasses, &c. articles +which will ever be valuable here. I ought not to omit shirts as a very +capital article in making presents; especially with those who have any +connexion with the fair sex. A shirt here is full as necessary as a piece +of gold in England. The ladies at Otaheite, after they had pretty well +stripped their lovers of shirts, found a method of clothing themselves with +their own cloth. It was their custom to go on shore every morning, and to +return on board in the evening, generally clad in rags. This furnished a +pretence to importune the lover for better clothes; and when he had no more +of his own, he was to dress them in new cloth of the country, which they +always left ashore; and appearing again in rags, they must again be +clothed. So that the same suit might pass through twenty different hands, +and be as often sold, bought, and given away. + +Before I finish this account of these islands, it is necessary to mention +all I know concerning the government of Ulietea and Otaha. Oree, so often +mentioned, is a native of Bolabola; but is possessed of _Whenooas_ or +lands at Ulietea; which I suppose he, as well as many of his countrymen, +got at the conquest. He resides here as Opoony's lieutenant; seeming to be +vested with regal authority, and to be the supreme magistrate in the +island. Oo-oo-rou, who is the _Earee_ by hereditary right, seems to +have little more left him than the bare title, and his own _Whenooa_ +or district, in which I think he is sovereign. I have always seen Oree pay +him the respect due to his rank; and he was pleased when he saw me +distinguish him from others. + +Otaha, so far as I can find, is upon the very same footing. Boba and Ota +are the two chiefs; the latter I have not seen; Boba is a stout, well-made +young man; and we were told is, after Opoony's death, to marry his +daughter, by which marriage he will be vested with the same regal authority +as Opoony has now; so that it should seem, though a woman may be vested +with regal dignity, she cannot have regal power. I cannot find that Opoony +has got any thing to himself by the conquest of these isles, any farther +than providing for his nobles, who have seized on best part of the lands. +He seems to have no demand on them for any of the many articles they have +had from us. Oedidee has several times enumerated to me all the axes, +nails, &c. which Opoony is possessed of, which hardly amount to as many as +he had from me when I saw him in 1769. Old as this famous man is, he seems +not to spend his last days in indolence. When we first arrived here, he was +at Maurana; soon after he returned to Bolabola; and we were now told, he +was gone to Tubi. + +I shall conclude this account of these islands, with some observations on +the watch which Mr Wales hath communicated to me. At our arrival in Matavai +Bay in Otaheite, the longitude pointed out by the watch was 2° 8' 38" ½ too +far to the west; that is, it had gained, since our leaving Queen +Charlotte's Sound, of its then rate of going, 8' 34" 1/2. This was in about +five months, or rather more, during which time it had passed through the +extremes of cold and heat. It was judged that half this error arose after +we left Easter Island; by which it appeared that it went better in the cold +than in the hot climates. + + +END VOLUME I. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Voyage Towards the South Pole and +Round the World, Volume 1, by James Cook + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH *** + +***** This file should be named 15777-8.txt or 15777-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/7/7/15777/ + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: A Voyage Towards the South Pole and Round the World, Volume 1 + +Author: James Cook + +Contributor: Tobias Furneaux + +Release Date: May 7, 2005 [EBook #15777] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH *** + + + + + + + + + + +A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD; PERFORMED IN +HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS THE RESOLUTION AND ADVENTURE, IN THE YEARS +1772, 3, 4, AND 5. WRITTEN BY JAMES COOK, COMMANDER OF THE RESOLUTION. +IN WHICH IS INCLUDED CAPTAIN FURNEAUX'S NARRATIVE OF HIS PROCEEDINGS +IN THE ADVENTURE DURING THE SEPARATION OF THE SHIPS. IN TWO VOLUMES. +ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS AND CHARTS, AND A VARIETY OF PORTRAITS OF +PERSONS AND VIEWS AND PLACES, DRAWN DURING THE VOYAGE BY MR. HODGES, +AND ENGRAVED BY THE MOST EMINENT MASTERS. + +VOLUME I + +* * * + +LONDON: +PRINTED FOR W STRAHAN AND T CADELL IN THE STRAND. +MDCCLXXVII +(1777) + +* * * + + +CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. + + +GENERAL INTRODUCTION. + +BOOK I. +From our departure from England to leaving the Society Isles the +first time. + +CHAPTER I. Passage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an Account +of several Incidents that happened by the Way, and Transactions there. + +CHAPTER II. Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a Southern +Continent. + +CHAPTER III. Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent, between the +Meridian of the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an Account of +the Separation of the two Ships, and the Arrival of the Resolution in +Dusky Bay. + +CHAPTER IV. Transactions in Dusky Bay, with an Account of several +Interviews with the Inhabitants. + +CHAPTER V. Directions for sailing in and out of Dusky Bay, with an Account +of the adjacent Country, its Produce, and Inhabitants: Astronomical and +Nautical Observations. + +CHAPTER VI. Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an +Account of some Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure. + +CHAPTER VII. Captain Furneaux's Narrative, from the Time the two Ships +were separated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with +some Account of Van Diemen's Land. + +CHAPTER VIII. Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Remarks +on the Inhabitants. + +CHAPTER IX. Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of some +low Islands, supposed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bougainville. + +CHAPTER X. Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the +critical Situation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened +while they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay. + +CHAPTER XI. An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats +being left on the Island; and many other Particulars which happened +while the Ships lay in Matavai Bay. + +CHAPTER XII. An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, +with the Incidents that happened while the Ships lay there; and of +Omai, one of the Natives, coming away in the Adventure, + +CHAPTER XIII. Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With +an Account of what happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives, +coming away in the Resolution. + +CHAPTER XIV. An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present +State of the Islands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs +of the Inhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected. + +BOOK II. +From our Departure from the Society Isles, to our Return to and leaving +them the second Time. + +CHAPTER I. Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account +of the Discovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened at +Middleburg. + +CHAPTER II. The Arrival of the Ships at Amsterdam; a Description of a +Place of Worship; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while we +remained at that Island. + +CHAPTER III. A Description of the Islands and their Produce; with the +Cultivation, Houses, Canoes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons, +Customs, Government, Religion, and Language of the Inhabitants. + +CHAPTER IV. Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an +Account of an Interview with the Inhabitants, and the final Separation +of the two Ships. + +CHAPTER V. Transactions at Queen Charlotte's Sound; with an Account of +the Inhabitants being Cannibals; and various other Incidents.--Departure +from the Sound, and our Endeavours to find the Adventure; with some +Description of the Coast. + +CHAPTER VI. Route of the Ship from New Zealand in Search of a Continent; +with an Account of the various Obstructions met with from the Ice, and the +Methods pursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean. + +CHAPTER VII. Sequel of the Passage from New Zealand to Easter Island, and +Transactions there, with an Account of an Expedition to discover the +Inland Part of the Country, and a Description of some of the +surprising gigantic Statues found in the Island. + +CHAPTER VIII. A Description of the Island, and its Produce, Situation, and +Inhabitants; their Manners, and Customs; Conjectures concerning their +Government, Religion, and other Subjects; with a more particular +Account of the gigantic Statues. + +CHAPTER IX. The Passage from Easter Island to the Marquesas Islands. +Transactions and Incidents which happened while the Ship lay in Madre +de Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the Island of St Christina. + +CHAPTER X. Departure from the Marquesas; a Description of the Situation, +Extent, Figure, and Appearance of the several Islands; with some +Account of the Inhabitants, their Customs, Dress, Habitations, Food, +Weapons, and Canoes. + +CHAPTER XI. A Description of several Islands discovered, or seen in the +Passage from the Marquesas to Otaheite; with an Account of a Naval +Review. + +CHAPTER XII. Some Account of a Visit from Otoo, Towha, and several other +Chiefs; also of a Robbery committed by one of the Natives, and its +Consequences, with general Observations on the Subject. + +CHAPTER XIII. Preparations to leave the Island. Another Naval Review, and +various other Incidents; with some Account of the Island, its Naval +Force, and Number of Inhabitants. + +CHAPTER XIV. The Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Huaheine; with an +Account of an Expedition into the Island, and several other Incidents +which happened while she lay there. + +CHAPTER XV. Arrival at Ulietea; with an Account of the Reception we met +with there, and the several Incidents which happened during our Stay. A +Report of two Ships being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the +island, and the Regret the Inhabitants shewed on the Occasion. The +Character of Oedidee; with some general Observations on the Island. + +* * * * * + +GENERAL INTRODUCTION. + +Whether the unexplored part of the Southern Hemisphere be only an immense +mass of water, or contain another continent, as speculative geography +seemed to suggest, was a question which had long engaged the attention, not +only of learned men, but of most of the maritime powers of Europe. + +To put an end to all diversity of opinion about a matter so curious and +important, was his majesty's principal motive in directing this voyage to +be undertaken, the history of which is now submitted to the public. + +But, in order to give the reader a clear idea of what has been done in it, +and to enable him to judge more accurately, how far the great object that +was proposed, has been obtained, it will be necessary to prefix a short +account of the several voyages which have been made on discoveries to the +Southern Hemisphere, prior to that which I had lately the honour to +conduct, and which I am now going to relate. + +1519 Magalhaens. + +The first who crossed the vast Pacific Ocean, was Ferdinand Magalhaens, a +Portuguese, who, in the service of Spain, sailed from Seville, with five +ships, on the 10th of April, 1519. He discovered the straits which bear his +name; and having passed through them, on the 27th of November, 1520, +entered the South Pacific Ocean. + +In this sea he discovered two uninhabited islands, whose situations are not +well known. He afterwards crossed the Line; discovered the Ladrone Islands; +and then proceeded to the Phillipines, in one of which he was killed in a +skirmish with the natives. + +His ship, called the Victory, was the first that circumnavigated the globe; +and the only one of his squadron that surmounted the dangers and distresses +which attended this heroic enterprise. + +The Spaniards, after Magalhaens had shewed them the way, made several +voyages from America to the westward, previous to that of Alvaro Mendana De +Neyra, in 1595, which is the first that can be traced step by step. For the +antecedent expeditions are not handed down to us with much precision. + +We know, however, in general, that, in them, New Guinea, the islands called +Solomon's, and several others, were discovered. + +Geographers differ greatly concerning the situation of the Solomon Islands. +The most probable opinion is, that they are the cluster which comprises +what has since been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c. + +1595 Mendana. + +On the 9th of April, 1595, Mendana, with intention to settle these islands, +sailed from Callao, with four ships; and his discoveries in his route to +the west, were the Marquesas, in the latitude of 10 deg. S.; the island of St +Bernardo, which I take to be the same that Commodore Byron calls the Island +of Danger; after that, Solitary Island, in the latitude of 10 deg. 40' S., +longitude 178 deg. W.; and, lastly, Santa Cruz, which is undoubtedly the same +that Captain Carteret calls Egmont Island. + +In this last island, Mendana, with many of his companions, died; and the +shattered remains of the squadron were conducted to Manilla, by Pedro +Fernandes de Quiros, the chief pilot. + +1605 Quiros. + +This same Quiros was the first sent out, with the sole view of discovering +a southern continent, and, indeed, he seems to have been the first who had +any idea of the existence of one. + +He sailed from Callao the 21st of December, 1605, as pilot of the fleet, +commanded by Luis Paz de Torres, consisting of two ships and a tender; and +steering to the W.S.W., on the 26th of January, 1606. being then, by their +reckoning, a thousand Spanish leagues from the coast of America, they +discovered a small low island in latitude 26 deg. S. Two days after, they +discovered another that was high, with a plain on the top. This is probably +the same that Captain Carteret calls Pitcairn's Island. + +After leaving these islands, Quiros seems to have directed his course to +W.N.W. and N.W. to 10 deg. or 11 deg. S. latitude, and then westward, till he +arrived at the Bay of St Philip and Jago, in the Island of Tierra del +Espirito Santo. In this route be discovered several islands; probably some +of those that have been seen by later navigators. + +On leaving the bay of St Philip and St Jago, the two ships were separated. +Quiros, with the Capitana, stood to the north, and returned to New Spain, +after having suffered greatly for want of provisions and water. Torres, +with the Almiranta and the tender, steered to the west, and seems to have +been the first who sailed between New Holland and New Guinea. + +1615. Le Maire and Schouten + +The next attempt to make discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, was +conducted by Le Maire and Schouten. They sailed from the Texel, on the 14th +of June, 1615, with the ships Concord and Horn. The latter was burnt by +accident in Port Desire. With the other they discovered the straits that +bear the name of Le Maire, and were the first who ever entered the Pacific +Ocean, by the way of Cape Horn. + +They discovered the island of Dogs, in latitude 15 deg. 15' S., longitude 136 deg. +30' W.; Sondre Grondt in 15 deg. S. latitude, and 143 deg. 10' W. longitude; +Waterland in 14 deg. 46' S., and 144 deg. 10' W.; and twenty-five leagues westward +of this, Fly Island, in latitude 15 deg. 20'; Traitor's and Coco's Islands, in +latitude 15 deg. 43' S., longitude 173 deg. 13' W.; two degrees more to the +westward, the isle of Hope; and in the latitude of 14 deg. 56' S., longitude +179 deg. 30' E., Horn Island. + +They next coasted the north side of New Britain and New Guinea, and arrived +at Batavia in October, 1616. + +1642 Tasman. + +Except some discoveries on the western and northern coasts of New Holland, +no important voyage to the Pacific Ocean was undertaken till 1642, when +Captain Tasman sailed from Batavia, with two ships belonging to the Dutch +East India Company, and discovered Van Diemen's Land; a small part of the +western coast of New Zealand; the Friendly Isles; and those called Prince +William's. + +1594 Sir Richard Hawkins. + +Thus far I have thought it best not to interrupt the progress of discovery +in the South Pacific Ocean, otherwise I should before have mentioned, that +Sir Richard Hawkins in 1594, being about fifty leagues to the eastward of +the river Plate, was driven by a storm to the eastward of his intended +course, and when the weather grew moderate, steering towards the Straits of +Magalhaens, he unexpectedly fell in with land, about sixty leagues of which +he coasted, and has very particularly described. This he named Hawkins's +Maiden Land, in honour of his royal mistress, Queen Elizabeth, and says it +lies some threescore leagues from the nearest part of South America. + +1689 Strong. + +This land was afterwards discovered to be two large islands, by Captain +John Strong, of the Farewell, from London, who, in 1689, passed through the +strait which divides the eastern from the western of those islands. To this +strait he gave the name of Falkland's Sound, in honour of his patron Lord +Falkland; and the name has since been extended, through inadvertency, to +the two islands it separates. + +Having mentioned these islands, I will add, that future navigators will +mis-spend their time, if they look for Pepy's Island in 47 deg. S.; it being +now certain, that Pepy's Island is no other than these islands of +Falkland. + +1675 La Roche. + +In April, 1675, Anthony la Roche, an English merchant, in his return from +the South Pacific Ocean, where he had been on a trading voyage, being +carried by the winds and currents, far to the east of Strait Le Maire, fell +in with a coast, which may possibly be the same with that which I visited +during this voyage, and have called the Island of Georgia. + +Leaving this land, and sailing to the north, La Roche, in the latitude of +45 deg. S., discovered a large island, with a good port towards the eastern +part, where he found wood, water, and fish. + +1699 Halley. + +In 1699, that celebrated astronomer, Dr Edmund Halley, was appointed to the +command of his majesty's ship the Paramour Pink, on an expedition for +improving the knowledge of the longitude, and of the variation of the +compass; and for discovering the unknown lands supposed to lie in the +southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. In this voyage he determined the +longitude of several places; and, after his return, constructed his +variation-chart, and proposed a method of observing the longitude at sea, +by means of the appulses and occultations of the fixed stars. But, though +he so successfully attended to the two first articles of his instructions, +he did not find any unknown southern land. + +1721 Roggewein. + +The Dutch, in 1721, fitted out three ships to make discoveries in the South +Pacific Ocean, under the command of Admiral Roggewein. He left the Texel on +the 21st of August, and arriving in that ocean, by going round Cape Horn, +discovered Easter Island, probably seen before, though not visited, by +Davis;* then between 14 deg. 41' and 15 deg. 47' S. latitude, and between the +longitude of 142 deg. and 150 deg. W., fell in with several other islands, which I +take to be some of those seen by the late English navigators. He next +discovered two islands in latitude 15 deg. S., longitude 170 deg. W., which he +called Baumen's Islands; and, lastly, Single Island, in latitude 13 deg. 41' +S., longitude 171 deg. 30' W. These three islands are, undoubtedly, the same +that Bougainville calls the Isles of Navigators. + +[* See Waser's description of the Isthmus of Darien.] + +1738 Bouvet. + +In 1738, the French East India Company sent Lozier Bouvet with two ships, +the Eagle and Mary, to make discoveries in the South Atlantic Ocean. He +sailed from Port L'Orient on the 19th of July in that year; touched at the +island of St Catherine; and from thence shaped his course towards the +south-east. + +On the 1st of January, 1739, he discovered land, or what he judged to be +land, in latitude 54 deg. S., longitude 11 deg. E. It will appear in the course of +the following narrative, that we made several attempts to find this land +without success. It is, therefore, very probable, that what Bouvet saw was +nothing more than a large ice-island. From hence he stood to the east, in +51 deg. of latitude to 35 deg. of E. longitude: After which the two ships +separated, one going to the island of Mauritius, and the other returning to +France. + +After this voyage of Bouvet, the spirit of discovery ceased, till his +present majesty formed a design of making discoveries, and exploring the +southern hemisphere; and, in the year 1764, directed it to be put in +execution. + +1764 Byron. + +Accordingly Commodore Byron, having under his command the Dolphin and +Tamer, sailed from the Downs on the 21st of June the same year; and having +visited the Falkland Islands, passed through the Straits of Magalhaens into +the Pacific Ocean, where he discovered the islands of Disappointment, +George's, Prince of Wales's, the isles of Danger, York Island, and Byron +Island. + +1766 Wallis. + +He returned to England the 9th of May, 1766, and, in the month of August +following, the Dolphin was again sent out under the command of Captain +Wallis, with the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret. + +They proceeded together, till they came to the west end of the Straits of +Magalhaens, and the Great South Sea in sight, where they were separated. + +Captain Wallis directed his course more westerly than any navigator had +done before him in so high a latitude; but met with no land till he got +within the tropic, where he discovered the islands of Whitsunday, Queen +Charlotte, Egmont, Duke of Gloucester, Duke of Cumberland, Maitea, +Otaheite, Eimeo, Tapamanou, How, Scilly, Boscawen, Keppel, and Wallis; and +returned to England in May, 1768. + +Carteret. + +His companion Captain Carteret kept a different route, in which he +discovered the islands of Osnaburg, Gloucester, Queen Charlotte's Isles, +Carteret's, Gower's, and the strait between New Britain and New Ireland; +and returned to England in March, 1769. + +1766 Bougainville. + +In November, 1766, Commodore Bougainville sailed from France in the frigate +La Boudeuse, with the store-ship L'Etoile. After spending some time on the +coast of Brazil, and at Falkland's Islands, he got into the Pacific Sea by +the Straits of Magalhaens, in January, 1768. + +In this ocean he discovered the Four Facardines, the isle of Lanciers, and +Harp Island, which I take to be the same that I afterwards named Lagoon, +Thrum Cap, and Bow Island. About twenty leagues farther to the west he +discovered four other islands; afterwards fell in with Maitea, Otaheite, +isles of Navigators, and Forlorn Hope, which to him were new discoveries. +He then passed through between the Hebrides, discovered the Shoal of Diana, +and some others, the land of Cape Deliverance, several islands more to the +north, passed the north of New Ireland, touched at Batavia, and arrived in +France in March, 1769. + +This year was rendered remarkable by the transit of the planet Venus over +the sun's disk, a phenomenon of great importance to astronomy; and which +every-where engaged the attention of the learned in that science. + +In the beginning of the 1768, the Royal Society presented a memorial to his +majesty, setting forth the advantages to be derived from accurate +observations of this transit in different parts of the world; particularly +from a set of such observations made in a southern latitude, between the +140th and 130th degrees of longitude, west from the Royal Observatory at +Greenwich; and that vessels, properly equipped, would be necessary to +convey the observers to their destined stations; but that the society were +in no condition to defray the expence of such an undertaking. + +In consequence of this memorial, the Admiralty were directed by his majesty +to provide proper vessels for this purpose. Accordingly, the Endeavour +bark, which had been built for the coal-trade, was purchased and fitted out +for the southern voyage, and I was honoured with the command of her. The +Royal Society, soon after, appointed me, in conjunction with Mr Charles +Green the astronomer, to make the requisite observations on the transit. + +It was at first intended to perform this great, and now a principal +business of our voyage, either at the Marquesas, or else at one of those +islands which Tasman had called Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Middleburg, now +better known under the name of the Friendly Islands. But while the +Endeavour was getting ready for the expedition, Captain Wallis returned +from his voyage round the world, in the course of which he had discovered +several islands in the South Sea; and, amongst others, Otaheite. This +island was preferred to any of those before mentioned, on account of the +conveniences it afforded; because its place had been well ascertained, and +found to be extremely well suited to our purpose. + +I was therefore ordered to proceed directly to Otaheite; and after +astronomical observations should be completed, to prosecute the design of +making discoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, by proceeding to the south +as far as the latitude of 40 deg.; then, if I found no land, to proceed to the +west between 40 deg. and 35 deg., till I fell in with New Zealand, which I was to +explore; and thence to return to England by such route as I should think +proper. + +1768 Cook's first voyage. + +In the prosecution of these instructions, I sailed from Deptford the 30th +July, 1768; from Plymouth the 26th of August, touched at Madeira, Rio de +Janeiro, and Straits Le Maire, and entered the South Pacific Ocean by Cape +Horn in January the following year. + +I endeavoured to make a direct course to Otaheite, and in part succeeded; +but I made no discovery till I got within the tropic, where I fell in with +Lagoon Island, Two Groups, Bird Island, Chain Island; and on the 13th of +April arrived at Otaheite, where I remained three months, during which time +the observations on the transit were made. + +I then left it; discovered and visited the Society Isles and Oheteroa; +thence proceeded to the south till I arrived in the latitude of 40 deg. 22', +longitude 147 deg. 29' W.; and, on the 6th of October, fell in with the east +side of New Zealand. + +I continued exploring the coast of this country till the 31st of March, +1770, when I quitted it, and proceeded to New Holland; and having surveyed +the eastern coast of that vast country, which part had not before been +visited, I passed between its northern extremity and New Guinea, landed on +the latter, touched at the island of Savu, Batavia, the Cape of Good Hope, +and St Helena,* and arrived in England on the 12th of July, 1771. + +[* In the account given of St Helena in the narrative of my former voyage, +I find two mistakes. Its inhabitants are far from exercising a wanton +cruelty over their slaves, and they have had wheel-carriages and +porters' knots for many years.] + +In this voyage I was accompanied by Mr Banks and Dr Solander; the first a +gentleman of ample fortune; the other an accomplished disciple of Linnaeus, +and one of the librarians of the British Museum; both of them distinguished +in the learned world, for their extensive and accurate knowledge of natural +history. These gentlemen, animated by the love of science, and by a desire +to pursue their enquiries in the remote regions I was preparing to visit, +desired permission to make a voyage with me. The Admiralty readily complied +with a request that promised such advantage to the republic of letters. +They accordingly embarked with me, and participated in all the dangers and +sufferings of our tedious and fatiguing navigation. + +The voyages of Messrs de Surville, Kerguelen, and Marion, of which some +account is given in the following work, did not come to my knowledge time +enough to afford me any advantage; and as they have not been communicated +to the world in a public way, I can say little about them, or about two +other voyages, which, I am told, have been made by the Spaniards; one to +Easter Island in the year 1769, and the other to Otaheite in 1775. + +Before I begin my narrative of the expedition entrusted to my care, it will +be necessary to add here some account of its equipment, and of some other +matters equally interesting, connected with my subject. + +Soon after my return home in the Endeavour, it was resolved to equip two +ships, to complete the discovery of the Southern Hemisphere. The nature of +this voyage required ships of a particular construction, and the Endeavour +being gone to Falkland's Isles as a store-ship, the Navy-board was directed +to purchase two such ships as were most suitable for this service. + +At this time various opinions were espoused by different people, touching +the size and kind of vessels most proper for such a voyage. Some were for +having large ships, and proposed those of forty guns, or East India +Company's ships. Others preferred large good sailing frigates, or three- +decked ships, employed in the Jamaica trade, fitted with round-houses. But +of all that was said and offered to the Admiralty's consideration on this +subject, as far as has come to my knowledge, what, in my opinion, was most +to the purpose, was suggested by the Navy-board. + +As the kind of ships most proper to be employed on discoveries, is a very +interesting consideration to the adventurers in such undertakings, it may +possibly be of use to those, who, in future, may be so employed, to give +here the purport of the sentiments of the Navy-board thereon, with whom, +after the experience of two voyages of three years each, I perfectly agree. + +The success of such undertakings as making discoveries in distant parts of +the world, will principally depend on the preparations being well adapted +to what ought to be the first considerations, namely, the preservation of +the adventurers and ships; and this will ever chiefly depend on the kind, +the size, and the properties of the ships chosen for the service. + +These primary considerations will not admit of any other that may interfere +with the necessary properties of the ships. Therefore, in choosing the +ships, should any of the most advantageous properties be wanting, and the +necessary room in them, be in any degree diminished, for less important +purposes, such a step would be laying a foundation for rendering the +undertaking abortive in the first instance. + +As the greatest danger to be apprehended and provided against, on a voyage +of discovery, especially to the most distant parts of the globe, is that of +the ship's being liable to be run a-ground on an unknown, desert, or +perhaps savage coast; so no consideration should be set in competition with +that of her being of a construction of the safest kind, in which the +officers may, with the least hazard, venture upon a strange coast. A ship +of this kind must not be of a great draught of water, yet of a sufficient +burden and capacity to carry a proper quantity of provisions and +necessaries for her complement of men, and for the time requisite to +perform the voyage. + +She must also be of a construction that will bear to take the ground; and +of a size, which in case of necessity, may be safely and conveniently laid +on shore, to repair any accidental damage or defect. These properties are +not to be found in ships of war of forty guns, nor in frigates, nor in East +India Company's ships, nor in large three-decked West India ships, nor +indeed in any other but North-country-built ships, or such as are built for +the coal-trade, which are peculiarly adapted to this purpose. + +In such a vessel an able sea-officer will be most venturesome, and better +enabled to fulfil his instructions, than he possibly can (or indeed than +would be prudent for him to attempt) in one of any other _sort_ or _size_. + +Upon the whole, I am firmly of opinion, that no ships are so proper for +discoveries in distant unknown parts, as those constructed as was the +Endeavour, in which I performed my former voyage. For no ships of any other +kind can contain stores and provisions sufficient (in proportion to the +necessary number of men,) considering the length of time it will be +necessary they should last. And, even if another kind of ships could stow a +sufficiency, yet on arriving at the parts for discovery, they would still, +from the nature of their construction and size, be _less fit_ for the +purpose. + +Hence, it may be concluded, so little progress had been hitherto made in +discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere. For all ships which attempted it +before the Endeavour, were unfit for it; although the officers employed in +them had done the utmost in their power. + +It was upon this consideration that the Endeavour was chosen for that +voyage. It was to those properties in her that those on board owed their +preservation; and hence we were enabled to prosecute discoveries in those +seas so much longer than any other ship ever did, or could do. And, +although discovery was not the first object of that voyage, I could venture +to traverse a far greater space of sea, til then unnavigated; to discover +greater tracts of country in high and low south latitudes, and to persevere +longer in exploring and surveying more correctly the extensive coasts of +those new-discovered countries, than any former navigator perhaps had done +during one voyage. + +In short, these properties in the ships, with perseverance and resolution +in their commanders, will enable them to execute their orders; to go beyond +former discoverers; and continue to Britain the reputation of taking the +lead of nations, in exploring the globe. + +These considerations concurring with Lord Sandwich's opinion on the same +subject, the Admiralty determined to have two such ships as are here +recommended. Accordingly two were purchased of Captain William Hammond of +Hull. They were both built at Whitby, by the same person who built the +Endeavour, being about fourteen or sixteen months old at the time they were +purchased, and were, in my opinion, as well adapted to the intended +service, as if they had been built for the purpose. The largest of the two +was four hundred and sixty-two tons burden. She was named Resolution, and +sent to Deptford to be equipped. The other was three hundred and thirty-six +tons burden. She was named Adventure, and sent to be equipped at Woolwich. + +It was at first proposed to sheathe them with copper; but on considering +that copper corrodes the iron-work, especially about the rudder, this +intention was laid aside, and the old method of sheathing and fitting +pursued, as being the most secure; for although it is usual to make the +rudder-bands of the same composition, it is not, however, so durable as +iron, nor would it, I am well assured, last out such a voyage as the +Resolution performed. + +Therefore, till a remedy is found to prevent the effect of copper upon +iron-work, it would not be advisable to use it on a voyage of this kind, +as, the principal fastenings of the ship being iron, they may be destroyed. + +On the 28th of November, 1771, I was appointed to the command of the +Resolution; and Tobias Furneaux (who had been second lieutenant with +Captain Wallis) was promoted, on this occasion, to the command of the +Adventure. + +_Our Complements of Officers and Men were fixed, as in the following +Table._ + +RESOLUTION + +_Officers and Men, Officers Names_ + +Captain (1) James Cook. +Lieutenants (3) Rob. P. Cooper, Charles Clerke, Richd. Pickersgill. + +Master (1) Joseph Gilbert. +Boatswain (1) James Gray. +Carpenter (1) James Wallis. +Gunner (1) Robert Anderson. +Surgeon (1) James Patten. +Master's mates (3) +Midshipmen (6) +Surgeon's mates (2) +Captain's clerk (1) +Master at arms (1) +Corporal (1) +Armourer (1) +Ditto mate (1) +Sail-maker (1) +Boatswain's mate (3) +Carpenter's ditto (3) +Gunner's ditto (2) +Carpenter's crews (4) +Cook (1) +Ditto mate (1) +Quarter-masters (6) +Able seamen (45) + +Marines +Lieutenant (1) John Edgecumbe. +Serjeant (1) +Corporals (2) +Drummer (1) +Privates (15) + +Total, 112 + +ADVENTURE + +_Officers and Men, Officers Names_ + +Captain (1) Tobias Furneaux. +Lieutenants (3) Joseph Shank, Arthur Kempe. + +Master (1) Peter Fannin. +Boatswain (1) Edward Johns. +Carpenter (1) William Offord. +Gunner (1) Andrew Gloag. +Surgeon (1) Thos. Andrews. +Master's mate (2) +Midshipmen (4) +Surgeon's mates (2) +Captain's clerk (1) +Master at arms (1) +Ditto Mate (1) +Sail-maker (1) +Ditto Mate (1) +Boatswain's mate (1) +Carpenter's ditto (2) +Gunner's ditto (2) +Carpenter's crews (1) +Cook (4) +Ditto mate (1) +Quarter-masters (4) +Able seamen (33) + +Marines +Lieutenant (1) James Scott. +Serjeant (1) +Corporals (1) +Drummer (1) +Privates (8) + +Total, 81 + +I had all the reason in the world to be perfectly satisfied with the choice +of the officers. The second and third lieutenants, the lieutenant of +marines, two of the warrant officers, and several of the petty officers, +had been with me during the former voyage. The others were men of known +abilities; and all of them, on every occasion, shewed their zeal for the +service in which they were employed, during the whole voyage. + +In the equipping of these ships, they were not confined to ordinary +establishments, but were fitted in the most complete manner, and supplied +with every extra article that was suggested to be necessary. + +Lord Sandwich paid an extraordinary attention to this equipment, by +visiting the ships from time to time, to satisfy himself that the whole was +completed to his wish, and to the satisfaction of those who were to embark +in them. + +Nor were the Navy and Victualling Boards wanting in providing them with the +very best of stores and provisions, and whatever else was necessary for so +long a voyage.--Some alterations were adopted in the species of provisions +usually made use of in the navy. That is, we were supplied with wheat in +lieu of so much oatmeal, and sugar in lieu of so much oil; and when +completed, each ship had two years and a half provisions on board, of all +species. + +We had besides many extra articles, such as _malt, sour krout, salted +cabbage, portable broth, saloup, mustard, marmalade of carrots, and +inspissated juice of wort and beer_. Some of these articles had before +been found to be highly antiscorbutic; and others were now sent out on +trial, or by way of experiment;--the inspissated juice of beer and wort, +and marmalade of carrots especially. As several of these antiscorbutic +articles are not generally known, a more particular account of them may not +be amiss. + +Of _malt_ is made _sweet wort_, which is given to such persons as +have got the scurvy, or whose habit of body threatens them with it, from +one to five or six pints a-day, as the surgeon sees necessary. + +_Sour krout_ is cabbage cut small, to which is put a little salt, +juniper berries, and anniseeds; it is then fermented, and afterwards close +packed in casks; in which state it will keep good a long time. This is a +wholesome vegetable food, and a great antiscorbutic. The allowance to each +man is two pounds a week, but I increased or diminished their allowance as +I thought proper. + +_Salted cabbage_ is cabbage cut to pieces, and salted down in casks, +which will preserve it a long time. + +_Portable broth_ is so well known, that it needs no description. We +were supplied with it both for the sick and well, and it was exceedingly +beneficial. + +_Saloup_ and _rob of lemons_ and _oranges_ were for the sick +and scorbutic only, and wholly under the surgeon's care. + +_Marmalade of carrots_ is the juice of yellow carrots, inspissated +till it is of the thickness of fluid honey, or treacle, which last it +resembles both in taste and colour. It was recommended by Baron Storsch, of +Berlin, as a very great antiscorbutic; but we did not find that it had much +of this quality. + +For the _inspissated juice of wort_ and _beer_ we were indebted +to Mr Pelham, secretary to the commissioners of the victualling office. +This gentleman, some years ago, considered that if the juice of malt, +either as beer or wort, was inspissated by evaporation, it was probable +this inspissated juice would keep good at sea; and, if so, a supply of beer +might be had, at any time, by mixing it with water. Mr Pelham made several +experiments, which succeeded so well, that the commissioners caused thirty- +one half barrels of this juice to be prepared, and sent out with our ships +for trial; nineteen on board the Resolution, and the remainder on board the +Adventure. The success of the experiments will be mentioned in the +narrative, in the order as they were made. + +The frame of a small vessel, twenty tons burthen, was properly prepared, +and put on board each of the ships to be set up (if found necessary) to +serve as tenders upon any emergency, or to transport the crew, in case the +ship was lost. + +We were also well provided with fishing-nets, lines, and hooks of every +kind for catching of fish.--And, in order to enable us to procure +refreshments, in such inhabited parts of the world as we might touch at, +where money was of no value, the Admiralty caused to be put on board both +the ships, several articles of merchandize; as well to trade with the +natives for provisions, as to make them presents to gain their friendship +and esteem. + +Their lordships also caused a number of medals to be struck, the one side +representing his majesty, and the other the two ships. These medals were to +be given to the natives of new-discovered countries, and left there as +testimonies of our being the first discoverers. + +Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was put on board; to +be given to the seamen whenever it was thought necessary. In short, nothing +was wanting that could tend to promote the success of the undertaking, or +contribute to the conveniences and health of those who embarked in it. + +The Admiralty shewed no less attention to science in general, by engaging +Mr William Hodges, a landscape painter, to embark in this voyage, in order +to make drawings and paintings of such places in the countries we should +touch at, as might be proper to give a more perfect, idea thereof, than +could be formed from written descriptions only. + +And it being thought of public utility, that some person skilled in natural +history, should be engaged to accompany me in this voyage, the parliament +granted an ample sum for the purpose, and Mr John Reinhold Forster, with +his son, were pitched upon for this employment. + +The Board of Longitude agreed with Mr William Wales and Mr William Bayley, +to make astronomical observations; the former on board the Resolution, and +the latter on board the Adventure. The great improvements which astronomy +and navigation have met with from the many interesting observations they +have made, would have done honour to any person whose reputation for +mathematical knowledge was not so well known as theirs. + +The same Board furnished them with the best instruments, for making both +astronomical and nautical observations and experiments; and likewise with +four time-pieces, or watch machines; three made by Mr Arnold, and one made +by Mr Kendal on Mr Harrison's principles. A particular account of the going +of these watches, as also the astronomical and nautical observations made +by the astronomers, has been before the public, by order of the Board of +Longitude, under the inspection of Mr Wales. + +Besides the obligation I was under to this gentleman for communicating to +me the observations he made, from time to time, during the voyage, I have +since been indebted to him for the perusal of his journal, with leave to +take from it whatever I thought might contribute to the improvement of this +work. + +For the convenience of the generality of readers, I have reduced the time +from the nautical to the civil computation, so that whenever the terms A.M. +and P.M. are used, the former signifies the forenoon, and the latter the +afternoon of the same day. + +In all the courses, bearings, &c., the variation of the compass is allowed, +unless the contrary is expressed. And now it may be necessary to say, that, +as I am on the point of sailing on a third expedition, I leave this account +of my last voyage in the hands of some friends, who, in my absence, have +kindly accepted the office of correcting the press for me; who are pleased +to think that what I have here to relate is better to be given in my own +words, than in the words of another person; especially as it is a work +designed for information, and not merely for amusement; in which, it is +their opinion, that candour and fidelity will counter-balance the want of +ornament. + +I shall therefore conclude this introductory discourse with desiring the +reader to excuse the inaccuracies of style, which doubtless he will +frequently meet with in the following narrative; and that, when such occur, +he will recollect that it is the production of a man, who has not had the +advantage of much school education, but who has been constantly at sea from +his youth; and though, with the assistance of a few good friends, he has +passed through all the stations belonging to a seaman, from an apprentice +boy in the coal trade, to a post-captain in the royal navy, he has had no +opportunity of cultivating letters. After this account of myself, the +public must not expect from me the elegance of a fine writer, or the +plausibility of a professed book-maker; but will, I hope, consider me as a +plain man, zealously exerting himself in the service of his country, and +determined to give the best account he is able of his proceedings. + +JAMES COOK. + +_Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776._ + +****************** + +LIST OF THE PLATES + +With directions for placing them. + +[As the Plates, for the sake of expedition, were printed off as fast as +they were finished, it was necessary to number them, before any +consideration could be had of the proper arrangement. They are to be placed +in the following order.] + +V0L. I. + +Print of Captain Cook. +Chart of the Southern Hernifphere, showing Captain Cook's tracks, and + those of some of the most distinguished navigators. +Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verds. +View of the Ice-Islands. +New Zealand spruce. +Family in Dusky-Bay, New Zealand. +Sketch of Dusky Bay, New Zealand. +Flax plant of New Zealand. +Poi Bird of New Zealand. +Tea Plant of New Zealand. +Van Diemen's Land. +Otoo King of Otaheite. +Plant used at Otaheite to catch fish by intoxicating them. +Potatow, Chief of Attahourou, in Otaheite. +Omai, who was brought to England by Captain Furneaux. +View of Otaheite Island. +A Tupapow with a corpse. +Chart of the Friendly Isles. +View of the landing at Middleburg. +Otago, or Attago, a chief at Amsterdam. +Asiatouca, a temple or burying-place at Amsterdam. +Draught, plan, and section of an Amsterdam canoe. +Ornaments, utensils, and weapons at the Friendly Isles. +Speeimens of New Zealand workmanfhip, &c. +Eafter Island. +Man at Easter Island. +Woman at Easter Island. +Monuments in Easter Island. +Sketch of the Marquesas. +View of Resolution Bay, at St. Christina. +Woman at St. Christina. +Chief at St. Christina. +Ornaments and weapons at the Marquesas. +Fleet of Otaheite assembled at Oparee. +Draught, plan, and section of the Britannia, a war canoe at Otaheite. +Tynai-mai, a young woman of Ulietea. +Oedidee, a young man of Bolabola. + +V0L. II. + +Sketches of four islands--Hervey--Palmerflon--Savage--S.-Turtle. +View in the Island of Rotterdam. +Boats of the Friendly Isles. +Chart of Captain Cook's discoveries made in the South Pacific Ocean. +View of the landing at Mallicollo. +Man of Mallicollo. +Sketches, of Port Sandwich in Mallicollo, of Port Resolution in Tanna, + and of the harbour of Balade in New Caledonia. +View of the landing at Erromango. +View of the landing at Tanna. +View in Tanna. +Man of Tanna. +Woman of Tanna. +Weapons, &c. at Mallicollo and Tanna. +View in New Caledonia. +Man of New Caledonia. +Woman of New Caledonia. +Ornaments, weapons, &c. at New Caledonia +View in the Island of Pines. +Norfolk Isle. +Man of New Zealand. +Woman of New Zealand. +Chart of Christmas Sound. +Man of Christmas Sound. +View of Christmas Sound. +Chart of the southern extremity of America. +Chart of Captain Cook's discoveries in the South Atlantic. +View of Possession Bay in South Georgia. + +* * * + +Five of the Plates, consisting of various Articles; the following +Explanation of them is subjoined. + +Ornaments and weapons at the Marquesas, thus marked. +1. A gorget ornamented with red pease. +2. An ornament for the head. +3. A club. +4. A Head-dress. +5. A fan. + +Weapons, &c. at Mallicollo and Tanna. +1. A bow. +2. Stones worn in the nose. +3. Musical reeds, a Syrinx. +4. A club. +5. The point of an arrow. +6. The arrow entire. + +Specimens of New Zealand workmanship, &c. +1 and 2. Different views of an adze. +3. A saw. +4. A shell. + +Ornaments, weapons, &c. at New Caledonia. +1. A lance. +2. The ornamented part, on a larger scale. +3. A cap ornamented with feathers, and girt with a sligg. +4. A comb. +5. A becket, or piece of cord made of cocoa-nut bark, used in throwing +their lances. +6 and 7. Different clubs. +8. A pick-axe used in cultivating the ground. +9. An adze. + +Ornaments, utensils, and weapons at the Friendly Isles. +1. A bow and arrow. +2. A frontlet of red feathers. +3. 6 Baskets. +4. A comb. +5. A musical instrument, composed of reeds. +7. A club. +8. The end of a lance; the point of which is wood hardened in the fire. +9. The aforesaid lance entire. + +***************** + +VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD. + +BOOK I + +FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND TO LEAVING THE SOCIETY ISLES +THE FIRST TIME. + +CHAPTER I. + +_Passage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an Account of +several Incidents that happened by the Way, and Transactions there._ + +1772 April + +I sailed from Deptford, April 9th, 1772, but got no farther than Woolwich, +where I was detained by easterly winds till the 23d, when the ship fell +down to Long Reach, and the next day was joined by the Adventure. Here both +ships received on board their powder, guns, gunners' stores, and marines. + +1772 May + +On the 10th of May we left Long Reach, with orders to touch at Plymouth; +but in plying down the river, the Resolution was found to be very crank, +which made it necessary to put into Sheerness in order to remove this evil, +by making some alteration in her upper works. These the officers of the +yard were ordered to take in hand immediately; and Lord Sandwich and Sir +Hugh Palliser came down to see them executed in such a manner as might +effectually answer the purpose intended. + +1772 June + +On the 22d of June the ship was again completed for sea, when I sailed from +Sheerness; and on the 3d of July joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. +The evening before, we met, off the Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the Augusta +yacht, (who was on his return from visiting the several dock-yards,) with +the Glory frigate and Hazard sloop. We saluted his lordship with seventeen +guns; and soon after he and Sir Hugh Palliser gave us the last mark of the +very great attention they had paid to this equipment, by coming on board, +to satisfy themselves that every thing was done to my wish, and that the +ship was found to answer to my satisfaction. + +At Plymouth I received my instructions, dated the 25th of June, directing +me to take under my command the Adventure; to make the best of my way to +the island of Madeira, there to take in a supply of wine, and then proceed +to the Cape of Good Hope, where I was to refresh the ships' companies, and +to take on board such provisions and necessaries as I might stand in need +of. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, I was to proceed to the southward, +and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcision, which was said by Monsieur +Bouvet to lie in the latitude of 54 deg. S. and in about 11 deg. 20' E. longitude +from Greenwich. If I discovered this cape, I was to satisfy myself whether +it was a part of the continent which had so much engaged the attention of +geographers and former navigators, or a part of an island. If it proved to +be the former, I was to employ myself diligently in exploring as great an +extent of it as I could, and to make such notations thereon, and +observations of every kind, as might be useful either to navigation or +commerce, or tend to the promotion of natural knowledge. I was also +directed to observe the genius, temper, disposition, and number of the +inhabitants, if there were any, and endeavour, by all proper means, to +cultivate a friendship and alliance with them; making them presents of such +things as they might value; inviting them to traffic, and shewing them +every kind of civility and regard. I was to continue to employ myself on +this service, and making discoveries either to the eastward or westward, as +my situation might render most eligible; keeping in as high a latitude as I +could, and prosecuting my discoveries as near to the South Pole as +possible, so long as the condition of the ships, the health of their crews, +and the state of their provisions, would admit of; taking care to reserve +as much of the latter as would enable me to reach some known port, where I +was to procure a sufficiency to bring me home to England. But if Cape +Circumcision should prove to be part of an island only, or if I should not +be able to find the said Cape, I was in the first case to make the +necessary survey of the island, and then to stand on to the southward, so +long as I judged there was a likelihood of falling in with the continent, +which I was also to do in the latter case, and then to proceed to the +eastward in further search of the said continent, as well as to make +discoveries of such islands as might be situated in that unexplored part of +the southern hemisphere; keeping in high latitudes, and prosecuting my +discoveries, as above mentioned, as near the pole as possible until I had +circumnavigated the globe; after which I was to proceed to the Cape of Good +Hope, and from thence to Spithead. + +In the prosecution of these discoveries, wherever the season of the year +rendered it unsafe for me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire to +some known place to the northward, to refresh my people, and refit the +ships; and to return again to the southward as soon as the season of the +year would admit of it. In all unforeseen cases, I was authorised to +proceed according to my own discretion; and in case the Resolution should +be lost or disabled, I was to prosecute the voyage on board the Adventure. + +I gave a copy of these instructions to Captain Furneaux, with an order +directing him to carry them into execution; and, in case he was separated +from me, appointed the island of Madeira for the first place of rendezvous; +Port Praya in the island of St Jago for the second; Cape of Good Hope for +the third; and New Zealand for the fourth. + +During our stay at Plymouth, Messrs Wales and Bayley, the two astronomers, +made observations on Drake's Island, in order to ascertain the latitude, +longitude, and true time for putting the time-pieces and watches in motion. +The latitude was found to be 50 deg. 21' 30" N., and the longitude 4 deg. 20' W. of +Greenwich, which, in this voyage, is every where to be understood as the +first meridian, and from which the longitude is reckoned east and west to +180 deg. each way. + +1772 July + +On the 10th of July the watches were set a-going in the +presence of the two astronomers, Captain Furneaux, the first lieutenants of +the ships, and myself, and put on board. The two on board the Adventure +were made by Mr Arnold, and also one of those on board the Resolution; but +the other was made by Mr Kendal, upon the same principle, in every respect, +as Mr Harrison's time-piece. The commander, first lieutenant, and +astronomer, on board each, of the ships, kept each of them keys of the +boxes which contained the watches, and were always to be present at the +winding them up, and comparing the one with the other; or some other +officer, if at any time, through indisposition, or absence upon any other +necessary duties, any of them could not conveniently attend. The same day, +according to the custom of the navy, the companies of both ships were paid +two months wages in advance, and, as a further encouragement for their +going this extraordinary voyage, they were also paid the wages due to them +to the 28th of the preceding May. This enabled them to provide necessaries +for the voyage. + +On the 13th, at six o'clock in the morning, I sailed from Plymouth Sound, +with the Adventure in company; and on the evening of the 29th anchored in +Funchiale Road, in the island of Madeira. The next morning I saluted the +garrison with eleven guns; which compliment was immediately returned. Soon +after I went on shore, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, the two Mr +Forsters, and Mr Wales. At our landing, we were received by a gentleman +from the vice-consul, Mr Sills, who conducted us to the house of Mr +Loughnans, the most considerable English merchant in the place. This +gentleman not only obtained leave for Mr Forster to search the island for +plants, but procured us every other thing we wanted, and insisted on our +accommodating ourselves at his house during our stay. + +The town of Funchiale, which is the capital of the island, is situated +about the middle of the south side, in the bottom of the bay of the same +name, in latitude 32 deg. 33' 34" N., longitude 17 deg. 12-7/8" W. The longitude +was deduced from lunar observations made by Mr Wales, and reduced to the +town by Mr Kendal's watch, which made the longitude 17 deg. 10' 14" W. During +our stay here, the crews of both ships were supplied with fresh beef and +onions; and a quantity of the latter was distributed amongst them for a +sea-store. + +1772 August + +Having got on board a supply of water, wine, and other necessaries, we left +Madeira on the 1st of August, and stood to the southward with a fine gale +at N.E. On the 4th we passed Palma, one of the Canary isles. It is of a +height to be seen twelve or fourteen leagues, and lies in the latitude 28 deg. +38' N., longitude 17 deg. 58' W. The next day we saw the isle of Ferro, and +passed it at the distance of fourteen leagues. I judged it to lie in the +latitude of 27 deg. 42' N. and longitude 18 deg. 9' W. + +I now made three puncheons of beer of the inspissated juice of malt. The +proportion I made use of was about ten of water to one of juice. Fifteen of +the nineteen half barrels of the inspissated juice which we had on board, +were produced from wort that was hopped before inspissated. The other four +were made of beer that had been both hopped and fermented before +inspissated. This last requires no other preparation to make it fit for +use, than to mix it with cold water, from one part in eight to one part in +twelve of water, (or in such other proportion as might be liked,) then stop +it down, and in a few days it will be brisk and drinkable. But the other +sort, after being mixed with water in the same manner, will require to be +fermented with yeast, in the usual way of making beer; at least it was so +thought. However, experience taught us that this will not always be +necessary: For by the heat of the weather, and the agitation of the ship, +both sorts were at this time in the highest state of fermentation, and had +hitherto evaded all our endeavours to stop it. If this juice could be kept +from fermenting, it certainly would be a most valuable article at sea. + +On finding that our stock of water would not last as to the Cape of Good +Hope, without putting the people to a scanty allowance, I resolved to stop +at St Jago for a supply. On the 9th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we +made the island of Bonavista, bearing S.W. The next day, we passed the isle +of Mayo on our right; and the same evening anchored in Port Praya in the +island of St Jago, in eighteen fathom water. The east point of the bay bore +E.; the west point S.W. 1/2 S.; and the fort N.W. I immediately dispatched +an officer to ask leave to water, and purchase refreshments, which was +granted. On the return of the officer, I saluted the fort with eleven guns, +on a promise of its being returned with an equal number. But by a mistake, +as they pretended, the salute was returned with only nine; for which the +governor made an excuse the next day. The 14th, in the evening, having +completed our water, and got on board a supply of refreshments, such as +hogs, goats, fowls, and fruit, we put to sea, and proceeded on our voyage. + +Port Praya is a small bay, situated about the middle of the south side of +the island of St Jago, in the latitude of 14 deg. 53' 30" N. longitude 23 deg. 30' +W. It may be known, especially in coming from the east, by the southernmost +hill on the island, which is round, and peaked at top; and lies a little +way inland, in the direction of west from the port. This mark is the more +necessary, as there is a small cove about a league to the eastward, with a +sandy beach in the bottom of it, a valley, and cocoa-nut trees behind, +which strangers may mistake for Port Praya, as we ourselves did. The two +points which form the entrance of Port Praya Bay are rather low, and in the +direction of W.S.W. and E.N.E. half a league from each other. Close to the +west point are sunken rocks, on which the sea continually breaks. The bay +lies in N.W. near half a league; and the depth of water is from fourteen to +four fathoms. Large ships ought not to anchor in less than eight, in which +depth the south end of the Green Island (a small island lying under the +west shore) will bear W. You water at a well that is behind the beach at +the head of the bay. The water is tolerable, but scarce; and bad getting +off, on account of a great surf on the beach. The refreshments to be got +here, are bullocks, hogs, goats, sheep, poultry, and fruits. The goats are +of the antelope kind, so extraordinarily lean, that hardly any thing can +equal them; and the bullocks, hogs, and sheep, are not much better. +Bullocks must be purchased with money; the price is twelve Spanish dollars +a-head, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds. Other articles may be got from +the natives in exchange for old clothes, &c. But the sale of bullocks is +confined to a company of merchants; to whom this privilege is granted, and +who keep an agent residing upon the spot. The fort above mentioned seems +wholly designed for the protection of the bay, and is well situated for +that purpose, being built on an elevation, which rises directly from the +sea on the right, at the head of the bay. + +We had no sooner got clear of Port Praya, than we got a fresh gale at +N.N.E. which blew in squalls, attended with showers of rain. But the next +day the wind and showers abated, and veered to the S. It was, however, +variable and unsettled for several days, accompanied with dark gloomy +weather, and showers of rain. + +On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter's mates fell overboard, +and was drowned. He was over the side, fitting in one of the scuttles, from +whence it is supposed he had fallen; for he was not seen till the very +instant he sunk under the ship's stern, when our endeavours to save him +were too late. This loss was sensibly felt during the voyage, as he was a +sober man and a good workman. About noon the next day, the rain poured down +upon us, not in drops but in streams. The wind, at the same time, was +variable and squally, which obliged the people to attend the decks, so that +few in the ships escaped a good soaking. We, however, benefited by it, as +it gave us an opportunity of filling all our empty water-casks. This heavy +rain at last brought on a dead calm, which continued twenty-four hours, +when it was succeeded by a breeze from S.W. Betwixt this point and S. it +continued for several days; and blew at times in squalls, attended with +rain and hot sultry weather. The mercury in the thermometers at noon, kept +generally from 79 to 82. + +On the 27th, spoke with Captain Furneaux, who informed us that one of his +petty officers was dead. At this time _we_ had not one sick on board, +although we had every thing of this kind to fear from the rain we had had, +which is a great promoter of sickness in hot climates. To prevent this, and +agreeable to some hints I had from Sir Hugh Palliser and from Captain +Campbell, I took every necessary precaution by airing and drying the ship +with fires made betwixt decks, smoaking, &c. and by obliging the people to +air their bedding, wash and dry their clothes, whenever there was an +opportunity. A neglect of these things causeth a disagreeable smell below, +affects the air, and seldom fails to bring on sickness, but more especially +in hot and wet weather. + +We now began to see some of those birds which are said never to fly far +from land; that is, man-of-war and tropic birds, gannets, &c. No land, +however, that we knew of, could be nearer than eighty leagues. + +On the 30th at noon, being in the latitude of 2 deg. 35' N., longitude 7 deg. 30' +W., and the wind having veered to the east of south, we tacked and +stretched to the S.W. In the latitude of 0 deg. 52' N., longitude 9 deg. 25' W., we +had one calm day, which gave us an opportunity of trying the current in a +boat. We found it set to the north one-third of a mile an hour. We had +reason to expect this from the difference we frequently found between the +observed latitude, and that given by the log; and Mr Kendal's watch shewed +us that it set to the east also. This was fully confirmed by the lunar +observations; when it appeared that we were 3 deg. 0' more to the east than the +common reckoning. At the time of trying the current, the mercury in the +thermometer in the open air stood at 75-1/2; and when immerged in the +surface of the sea, at 74; but when immerged eighty fathoms deep (where it +remained fifteen minutes) when it came up, the mercury stood at 66. At +the same time we sounded, without out finding the bottom, with a line of +two hundred and fifty fathoms. + +The calm was succeeded by a light breeze at S.W., which kept veering by +little and little to the south, and at last to the eastward of south, +attended with clear serene weather. + +1772 September + +At length, on the 8th of September, we crossed the Line in the longitude +of 8 deg. W.; after which, the ceremony of ducking, &c., generally practised +on this occasion, was not omitted. + +The wind now veering more and more to the east, and blowing a gentle top- +gallant gale, in eight days it carried us into the latitude 9 deg. 30' S., +longitude 18 deg. W. The weather was pleasant; and we daily saw some of those +birds which are looked upon as signs of the vicinity of land; such as +boobies, man of war, tropic birds, and gannets. We supposed they came from +the isle of St Matthew, or Ascension; which isles we must have passed at no +great distance. + +On the 27th, in the latitude of 25 deg. 29', longitude 24 deg. 54', we discovered a +sail to the west standing after us. She was a snow; and the colours she +shewed, either a Portuguese or St George's ensign, the distance being too +great to distinguish the one from the other, and I did not choose to wait +to get nearer, or to speak with her. + +The wind now began to be variable. It first veered to the north, where it +remained two days with fair weather. Afterwards it came round by the west +to the south, where it remained two days longer, and, after a few hours +calm, sprung up at S.W. But here it remained not long, before it veered to +S.E.E. and to the north of east; blew fresh, and by squalls, with showers +of rain. + +1772 October + +With these winds we advanced but slowly; and, without meeting with anything +remarkable till the 11th of October, when, at 6h 24m 12s, by Mr Kendal's +watch, the moon rose about four digits eclipsed, and soon after we prepared +to observe the end of the eclipse, as follows, viz. + + h. m. s. + +By me at 6 53 51 with a common refractor. +By Mr Forster 6 55 23 +By Mr Wales 6 54 57 quadrant telescope. +By Mr Pickersgill 6 55 30 three feet refractor. +By Mr Gilert 6 53 24 naked eye. +By Mr Hervey 6 55 34 quadrant telescope. + --------- +Mean 6 54 46-1/2 by the watch. +Watch slow of apparent time 0 3 59 + --------- +Apparent time 6 58 45-1/2 end of the eclipse. +Ditto 7 25 0 at Greenwich. + --------- +Dif. of longitude 0 26 14-1/2 == 6 deg. 33' 30" + + The longitude observed by Mr Wales, was + +By the and Aquilae 5 deg. 51' | +By the and Adebaran 6 deg. 35 |Mean 6 deg. 13' 0" +By Mr Kendal's watch 6 deg. 53 7/8 + +The next morning, having but little wind, we hoisted a boat out, to try if +there was any current, but found none. From this time to the 16th, we had +the wind between the north and east, a gentle gale. We had for some time +ceased to see any of the birds before-mentioned; and were now accompanied +by albatrosses, pintadoes, sheerwaters, &c., and a small grey peterel, less +than a pigeon. It has a whitish belly, and grey back, with a black stroke +across from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. These birds +sometimes visited us in great flights. They are, as well as the pintadoes, +southern birds; and are, I believe, never seen within the tropics, or north +of the Line. + +On the 17th, we saw a sail to the N.W., standing to the eastward, which +hoisted Dutch colours. She kept us company for two days, but the third we +outsailed her. + +On the 21st, at 7h. 30m. 20s. a, m., our longitude, by the mean of two +observed distances of the sun and moon, was 8 deg. 4' 30" E., Mr Kendal's watch +at the same time gave 7 deg. 22'. Our latitude was 35 deg. 20' N. The wind was now +easterly, and continued so till the 23d, when it veered to N. and N.W. +after some hours calm; in which we put a boat in the water, and Mr Forster +shot some albatrosses and other birds, on which we feasted the next day, +and found them exceedingly good. At the same time we saw a seal, or, as +some thought, a sea-lion, which probably might be an inhabitant of one of +the isles of Tristian de Cunhah, being now nearly in their latitude, and +about 5 deg. east of them. + +The wind continued but two days at N.W. and S.W.; then veered to the S.E., +where it remained two days longer; then fixed at N.W., which carried us to +our intended port. As we approached the land, the sea-fowl, which had +accompanied us hitherto, began to leave us; at least they did not come in +such numbers. Nor did we see gannets, or the black bird, commonly called +the Cape Hen, till we were nearly within sight of the Cape. Nor did we +strike sounding till Penguin Island bore N.N.E., distant two or three +leagues, where we had fifty fathom water. Not but that the soundings may +extend farther off. However, I am very sure that they do not extend very +far west from the Cape. For we could not find ground with a line of 210 +fathoms, twenty-five leagues west of Table-Bay; the same at thirty-five +leagues, and at sixty-four leagues. I sounded these three times, in order +to find a bank, which, I had been told, lies to the west of the cape; but +how far I never could learn. + +I was told before I left England, by some gentlemen who were well enough +acquainted with the navigation between England and the Cape of Good Hope, +that I sailed at an improper season of the year; and that I should meet +with much calm weather, near and under the Line. This probably may be the +case some years. It is, however, not general. On the contrary, we hardly +met with any calms; but a brisk S.W. wind in those very latitudes where the +calms are expected. Nor did we meet with any of those tornadoes, so much +spoken of by other navigators. However, what they have said of the current +setting towards the coast of Guinea, as you approach that shore, is true. +For, from the time of our leaving St Jago, to our arrival into the latitude +of 1-1/2 deg. N., which was eleven days, we were carried by the current 3 deg. of +longitude more east than our reckoning. On the other hand, after we had +crossed the Line, and got the S.E. trade-wind, we always found, by +observation, that the ship outstripped the reckoning, which we judged to be +owing to a current setting between the south and west. But, upon the whole, +the currents in this run seemed to balance each other; for upon our arrival +at the Cape, the difference of longitude by dead reckoning kept from +England, without once being corrected, was only three quarters of a degree +less than that by observation. + +At two in the afternoon on the 29th, we made the land of the Cape of Good +Hope. The Table Mountain, which is over the Cape Town, bore E.S.E., +distance twelve or fourteen leagues. At this time it was a good deal +obscured by clouds, otherwise it might, from its height, have been seen at +a much greater distance. We now crowded all the sail we could, thinking to +get into the bay before dark. But when we found this could not be +accomplished, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on. +Between eight and nine o'clock, the whole sea, within the compass of our +sight, became at once, as it were illuminated; or, what the seamen call, +all on fire. This appearance of the sea, in some degree, is very common; +but the cause is not so generally known. Mr Banks and Dr Solander had +satisfied me that it was occasioned by sea-insects. Mr Forster, however, +seemed not to favour this opinion. I therefore had some buckets of water +drawn up from alongside the ship, which we found full of an innumerable +quantity of small globular insects, about the size of a common pin's-head, +and quite transparent. There was no doubt of their being living animals, +when in their own proper element, though we could not perceive any life in +them: Mr Forster, whose province it is more minutely to describe things of +this nature, was now well satisfied with the cause of the sea's +illumination. + +At length day-light came and brought us fair weather; and having stood into +Table Bay, with the Adventure in company, we anchored in five fathom water. +We afterwards moored N.E. and S.W., Green Point on the west point of the +bay, bearing N.W. by W., and the church, in one with the valley between the +Table Mountain and the Sugar-Loaf, or Lion's Head, bearing S.W. by S., and +distant from the landing-place near the fort, one mile. + +We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the captain of the port, +or master-attendant, some other officers belonging to the company, and Mr +Brandt. This last gentleman brought us off such things as could not fail of +being acceptable to persons coming from sea. The purport of the master +attendant's visit was, according to custom, to take an account of the +ships; to enquire into the health of the crews; and, in particular, if the +small-pox was on board; a thing they dread, above all others, at the Cape, +and for these purposes a surgeon is always one of the visitants. + +My first step after anchoring, was, to send an officer to wait on Baron +Plettenberg, the governor, to acquaint him with our arrival, and the +reasons which induced me to put in there. To this the officer received a +very polite answer; and, upon his return, we saluted the garrison with +eleven guns, which compliment was returned. Soon after I went on shore +myself, and waited upon the governor, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and +the two Mr Forsters. He received us, with very great politeness, and +promised me every assistance the place could afford. From him I learned +that two French ships from the Mauritius, about eight months before, had +discovered land, in the latitude of 48 deg. S., and in the meridian of that +island, along which they sailed forty miles, till they came to a bay into +which they were about to enter, when they were driven off and separated in +a hard gale of wind, after having lost some of their boats and people, +which they had sent to sound the bay. One of the ships, viz. the La +Fortune, soon after arrived at the Mauritius, the captain of which was sent +home to France with an account of the discovery. The governor also informed +me, that in March last, two other French ships from the island of +Mauritius, touched at the Cape in their way to the South Pacific Ocean; +where they were going to make discoveries, under the command of M. Marion. +Aotourou, the man M. de Bougainville brought from Otaheite, was to have +returned with M. Marion, had he been living. + +After having visited the governor and some other principal persons of the +place, we fixed ourselves at Mr Brandt's, the usual residence of most +officers belonging to English ships. This gentleman spares neither trouble +nor expence to make his house agreeable to those who favour him with their +company, and to accommodate them with every thing they want. With him I +concerted measures for supplying the ships with provisions, and all other +necessaries they wanted; which he set about procuring without delay, while +the seamen on board were employed in overhauling the rigging; and the +carpenters in caulking the ships' sides and decks, &c. + +Messrs Wales and Bayley got all their instruments on shore, in order to +make astronomical observations for ascertaining the going of the watches, +and other purposes. The result of some of these observations shewed, that +Mr Kendal's watch had answered beyond all expectation, by pointing out the +longitude of this place to within one minute of time to what it was +observed by Messrs Mason and Dixon in 1761. + +Three or four days after us, two Dutch Indiamen arrived here from Holland; +after a passage of between four and five months, in which one lost, by the +scurvy and other putrid diseases, 150 men, and the other 41. They sent, on +their arrival, great numbers to the hospital in very dreadful +circumstances. It is remarkable that one of these ships touched at Port +Praya, and left it a month before we arrived there; and yet we got here +three days before her. The Dutch at the Cape having found their hospital +too small for the reception of their sick, were going to build a new one at +the east part of the town; the foundation of which was laid with great +ceremony while we were there. + +1772 November + +By the healthy condition of the crews of both ships at our arrival, I +thought to have made my stay at the Cape very short. But, as the bread we +wanted was unbaked, and the spirit, which I found scarce, to be collected +from different parts out of the country, it was the 18th of November before +we had got every thing on board, and the 22d before we could put to sea. +During this stay the crews of both ships were served every day with fresh +beef or mutton, new-baked bread, and as much greens as they could eat. The +ships were caulked and painted; and, in every respect, put in as good a +condition as when they left England. Some alterations in the officers took +place in the Adventure. Mr Shank the first lieutenant having been in an ill +state of health ever since we sailed from Plymouth, and not finding himself +recover here, desired my leave to quit, in order to return home for the re- +establishment of his health. As his request appeared to be well-founded, I +granted him leave accordingly, and appointed Mr Kemp, first lieutenant in +his room, and Mr Burney, one of my midshipmen, second, in the room of Mr +Kemp. + +Mr Forster, whose whole time was taken up in the pursuit of natural history +and botany, met with a Swedish gentleman, one Mr Sparman, who understood +something of these sciences, having studied under Dr Linnaeus. He being +willing to embark with us, Mr Forster strongly importuned me to take him on +board, thinking that he would be of great assistance to him in the course +of the voyage. I at last consented, and he embarked with us accordingly, as +an assistant to Mr Forster, who bore his expences on board, and allowed him +a yearly stipend besides. + +Mr Hodges employed himself here in drawing a view of the Cape, town, and +parts adjacent, in oil colours, which, was properly packed up with some +others, and left with Mr Brandt, in order to be forwarded to the Admiralty +by the first ship that should sail for England. + +CHAPTER II. + +_Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in search of a Southern +Continent._ + +1772 November + +Having at length finished my business at the Cape, and taken leave of the +governor and some others of the chief officers, who, with very obliging +readiness, had given me all the assistance I could desire, on the 22d of +November we repaired on board; and at three o'clock in the afternoon +weighed, and came to sail with the wind at N. by W. As soon as the anchor +was up, we saluted the port with fifteen guns, which was immediately +returned; and after making a few trips, got out of the bay by seven +o'clock, at which time the town bore S.E. distant four miles. After this we +stood to the westward all night, in order to get clear of the land, having +the wind at N.N.W. and N.W., blowing in squalls attended with rain, which +obliged us to reef our topsails. The sea was again illuminated for some +time, in the same manner as it was the night before we arrived in Table +Bay. + +Having got clear of the land, I directed my course for Cape Circumcision. +The wind continued at N.W. a moderate gale, until the 24th, when it veered +round to the eastward. On the noon of this day, we were in the latitude of +35 deg. 25' S., and 29' west of the Cape; and had abundance of albatrosses +about us, several of which were caught with hook and line; and were very +well relished by many of the people, notwithstanding they were at this time +served with fresh mutton. Judging that we should soon come into cold +weather, I ordered slops to be served to such as were in want; and gave to +each man the fearnought jacket and trowsers allowed them by the Admiralty. + +1772 December + +The wind continued easterly for two days, and blew a moderate gale, which +brought us into the latitude of 39 deg. 4', and 2 deg. of longitude west of the +Cape, thermometer 52-1/2 The wind now came to W. and S.W.; and on the +29th fixed at W.N.W., and increased to a storm, which continued, with some +few intervals of moderate weather, till the 6th of December, when we were +in the latitude of 48 deg. 41' S., and longitude 18 deg. 24' E. This gale, which +was attended with rain and hail, blew at times with such violence that we +could carry no sails; by which means we were driven far to the eastward of +our intended course, and no hopes were left me of reaching Cape +Circumcision. But the greatest misfortune that attended us, was the loss of +great part of our live stock, which we had brought from the Cape, and which +consisted of sheep, hogs, and geese. Indeed this sudden transition from +warm, mild weather, to extreme cold and wet, made every man in the ship +feel its effects. For by this time the mercury in the thermometer had +fallen to 38; whereas at the Cape it was generally at 67 and upwards. I now +made some addition to the people's allowance of spirit, by giving them a +dram whenever I thought it necessary, and ordered Captain Furneaux to do +the same. The night proved clear and serene, and the only one that was so +since we left the Cape; and the next morning the rising sun gave us such +flattering hopes of a fine day, that we were induced to let all the reefs +out of the top-sails, and to get top-gallant yards across, in order to make +the most of a fresh gale at north. Our hopes, however, soon vanished; for +before eight o'clock, the serenity of the sky was changed into a thick +haze, accompanied with rain. The gale increasing obliged us to hand the +main-sail, close-reef our top-sails, and to strike top-gallant yards. The +barometer at this time was unusually low, which foreboded an approaching +storm, and this happened accordingly. For, by one o'clock p. m. the wind, +which was at N.W., blew with such strength as obliged us to take in all our +sails, to strike top-gallant-masts, and to get the spritsail-yard in. And I +thought proper to wear, and lie-to, under a mizzen-stay-sail, with the +ships' heads to the N.E. as they would bow the sea, which ran prodigiously +high, better on this tack. + +At eight o'clock next morning, being the 8th, we wore, and lay on the other +tack; the gale was a little abated, but the sea ran too high to make sail, +any more than the fore-top-mast-stay-sail. In the evening, being in the +latitude of 49 deg. 40 S., and 1-1/2 deg. E. of the Cape, we saw two penguins and +some sea or rock-weed, which occasioned us to sound, without finding ground +at 100 fathoms. At eight p. m. we wore, and lay with our heads to the N.E. +till three in the morning of the 9th, then wore again to the southward, the +wind blowing in squalls attended with showers of snow. At eight, being +something more moderate, I made the Adventure signal to make sail; and soon +after made sail ourselves under the courses and close-reefed top-sails. In +the evening, took in the top-sails and main-sail, and brought-to under +fore-sail and mizzen; thermometer at 36 deg.. The wind still at N.W. blew a +fresh gale, accompanied with a very high sea. In the night had a pretty +smart frost with snow. + +In the morning of the 10th we made sail under courses and top-sails close- +reefed; and made the signal for the Adventure to make sail and lead. At +eight o'clock saw an island of ice to the westward of us, being then in the +latitude of 56 deg. 40' S. and longitude 2 deg. 0' E. of the Cape of Good Hope. +Soon after the wind moderated, and we let all the reefs out of the top- +sails, got the spritsail-yard out, and top-gallant-mast up. The weather +coming hazy, I called the Adventure by signal under my stern, which was no +sooner done, than the haze increased so much with snow and sleet, that we +did not see an island of ice, which we were steering directly for, till we +were less than a mile from it. I judged it to be about 50 feet high, and +half a mile in circuit. It was flat at top, and its sides rose in a +perpendicular direction, against which the sea broke exceedingly high. +Captain Furneaux at first took this ice for land, and hauled off from it, +until called back by signal. As the weather was foggy, it was necessary to +proceed with caution. We therefore reefed our top-sails, and at the same +time sounded, but found no ground with 150 fathoms. We kept on to the +southward with the wind at north till night, which we spent in making short +trips, first one way and then another, under an easy sail; thermometer +these 24 hours from 36-1/2 to 31. + +At day-light in the morning of the 11th, we made sail to the southward with +the wind at west, having a fresh gale, attended with sleet and snow. At +noon we were in the latitude of 51 deg. 50' S., and longitude 21 deg. 3' E., where +we saw some white birds about the size of pigeons, with blackish bills and +feet. I never saw any such before; and Mr Forster had no knowledge of them. +I believe them to be of the peterel tribe, and natives of these icy +seas. At this time we passed between two ice islands, which lay at a +little distance from each other. + +In the night the wind veered to N.W. which enabled us to steer S.W. On the +12th we had still thick hazy weather, with sleet and snow; so that we were +obliged to proceed with great caution on account of the ice islands. Six of +these we passed this day; some of them near two miles in circuit, and sixty +feet high. And yet, such was the force and height of the waves, that the +sea broke quite over them. This exhibited a view which for a few moments +was pleasing to the eye; but when we reflected on the danger, the mind was +filled with horror. For were a ship to get against the weather-side of one +of these islands when the sea runs high, she would be dashed to pieces in a +moment. Upon our getting among the ice islands, the albatrosses left us; +that is, we saw but one now and then. Nor did our other companions, the +pintadoes, sheerwaters, small grey birds, fulmars, &c., appear in such +numbers; on the other hand, penguins began to make their appearance. Two of +these birds were seen to-day. + +The wind in the night veered to west, and at last fixed at S.W., a fresh +gale, with sleet and snow, which froze on our sails and rigging as it fell, +so that they were all hung with icicles. We kept on to the southward, +passed no less than eighteen ice islands, and saw more penguins. At noon on +the 13th, we were in the latitude of 54 deg. S., which is the latitude of Cape +Circumcision, discovered by M. Bouvet in 1739; but we were ten degrees of +longitude east of it; that is, near 118 leagues in this latitude. We stood +on to the S.S.E. till eight o'clock in the evening, the weather still +continuing thick and hazy, with sleet and snow. From noon till this time, +twenty ice islands, of various extent, both for height and circuit, +presented themselves to our view. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no +ground with 150 fathom of line. + +We now tacked and made a trip to the northward till midnight, when we stood +again to the southward; and at half an hour past six o'clock in the morning +of the 14th, we were stopped by an immense field of low ice; to which we +could see no end, either to the east, west, or south. In different parts of +this field were islands or hills of ice, like those we found floating in +the sea; and some on board thought they saw land also over the ice, bearing +S.W. by S. I even thought so myself; but changed my opinion upon more +narrowly examining these ice hills, and the various appearances they made +when seen through the haze. For at this time it was both hazy and cloudy in +the horizon; so that a distant object could not be seen distinct. Being +now in the latitude of 54 deg. 50' S. and longitude 21 deg. 34' E., and having the +wind at N.W. we bore away along the edge of the ice, steering S.S.E. and +S.E., according to the direction of the north side of it, where we saw many +whales, penguins, some white birds, pintadoes, &c. + +At eight o'clock we brought-to under a point of the ice, where we had +smooth water: and I sent on board for Captain Furneaux. After we had fixed +on rendezvouses in case of separation, and some other matters for the +better keeping company, he returned on board, and we made sail again along +the ice. Some pieces we took up along-side, which yielded fresh water. At +noon we had a good observation, and found ourselves in latitude 54 deg. 55' S. + +We continued a south-east course along the edge of the ice, till one +o'clock, when we came to a point round which we hauled S.S.W., the sea +appearing to be clear of ice in that direction. But after running four +leagues upon this course, with the ice on our starboard side, we found +ourselves quite imbayed; the ice extending from N.N.E. round by the west +and south, to east, in one compact body. The weather was indifferently +clear; and yet we could see no end to it. At five o'clock we hauled up +east, wind at north, a gentle gale, in order to clear the ice. The extreme +east point of it, at eight o'clock, bore E. by S., over which appeared a +clear sea. We however spent the night in making short boards, under an easy +sail. Thermometer, these 24 hours, from 32 to 30. + +Next day, the 15th, we had the wind at N.W., a small gale, thick foggy +weather, with much snow; thermometer from 32 to 27; so that our sails and +rigging were all hung with icicles. The fog was so thick at times, that we +could not see the length of the ship; and we had much difficulty to avoid +the many islands of ice that surrounded us. About noon, having but little +wind, we hoisted out a boat to try the current, which we found set S.E. +near 3/4 of a mile an hour. At the same time, a thermometer, which in the +open air was at 32 deg., in the surface of the sea was at 30 deg.; and, after being +immerged 100 fathoms deep for about fifteen or twenty minutes, came up at +34 deg., which is only 2 deg. above freezing. Our latitude at this time was 55 deg. +8'. + +The thick fog continued till two o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, +when it cleared away a little, and we made sail to the southward, wind +still at N.W. a gentle gale. We had not run long to the southward before we +fell in with the main field of ice extending from S.S.W. to E. We now bore +away to east along the edge of it; but at night hauled off north, with the +wind at W.N.W., a gentle gale, attended with snow. + +At four in the morning on the 17th, stood again to the south; but was again +obliged to bear up on account of the ice, along the side of which we +steered betwixt E. and S.S.W., hauling into every bay or opening, in hopes +of finding a passage to the south. But we found every where the ice closed. +We had a gentle gale at N.W. with showers of snow. At noon we were, by +observation, in the latitude of 55 deg. 16' S. In the evening the weather was +clear and serene. In the course of this day we saw many whales, one seal, +penguins, some of the white birds, another sort of peterel, which is brown +and white, and not much unlike a pintado; and some other sorts already +known. We found the skirts of the loose ice to be more broken than usual; +and it extended some distance beyond the main field, insomuch that we +sailed amongst it the most part of the day; and the high ice islands +without us were innumerable. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no +ground with 250 fathoms of line. After this we hauled close upon a wind to +the northward, as we could see the field of ice extend as far as N.E. But +this happened not to be the northern point; for at eleven o'clock we were +obliged to tack to avoid it. + +At two o'clock the next morning we stood again to the northward, with the +wind at N.W. by W., thinking to weather the ice upon this tack; on which we +stood but two hours, before we found ourselves quite imbayed, being then in +latitude 55 deg. 8', longitude 24 deg. 3'. The wind veering more to the north, we +tacked and stood to the westward under all the sail we could carry, having +a fresh breeze and clear weather, which last was of short duration. For at +six o'clock it became hazy, and soon after there was thick fog; the wind +veered to the N.E., freshened and brought with it snow and sleet, which +froze on the rigging as it fell. We were now enabled to get clear of the +field of ice: but at the same time we were carried in amongst the ice +islands, in a manner equally dangerous, and which with much difficulty we +kept clear of. + +Dangerous as it is to sail among these floating rocks (if I may be allowed +to call them so) in a thick fog, this, however, is preferable to being +entangled with immense fields of ice under the same circumstances. The +great danger to be apprehended in this latter case, is the getting fast in +the ice; a situation which would be exceedingly alarming. I had two men on +board that had been in the Greenland trade; the one of them in a ship that +lay nine weeks, and the other in one that lay six weeks, fast in this kind +of ice, which they called packed ice. What they called field ice is +thicker; and the whole field, be it ever so large, consists of one piece. +Whereas this which I call field-ice, from its immense extent, consists of +many pieces of various sizes, both in thickness and surface, from thirty or +forty feet square to three or four, packed close together, and in places +heaped one upon another. This, I am of opinion, would be found too hard for +a ship's side, that is not properly armed against it. How long it may have +lain, or will lie here, is a point not easily determined. Such ice is found +in the Greenland seas all the summer long; and I think it cannot be colder +there in the summer, than it is here. Be this as it may, we certainly had +no thaw; on the contrary, the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer kept +generally below the freezing point, although it was the middle of summer. + +It is a general opinion, that the ice I have been speaking of, is formed in +bays and rivers. Under this supposition we were led to believe that land +was not far distant; and that it even lay to the southward behind the ice, +which alone hindered us from approaching to it. Therefore, as we had now +sailed above thirty leagues along the edge of the ice, without finding a +passage to the south, I determined to run thirty or forty leagues to the +east, afterwards endeavour to get to the southward, and, if I met with no +land, or other impediment, to get behind the ice, and put the matter out of +all manner of dispute. With this view, we kept standing to the N.W., with +the wind at N.E. and N., thick foggy weather, with sleet and snow, till six +in the evening, when the wind veered to N.W., and we tacked and stood to +the eastward, meeting with many islands of ice of different magnitudes, and +some loose pieces: The thermometer from 30 to 34; weather very hazy, with +sleet and snow, and more sensibly colder than the thermometer seemed to +point out, insomuch that the whole crew complained. In order to enable them +to support this weather the better, I caused the sleeves of their jackets +(which were so short as to expose their arms) to be lengthened with baize; +and had a cap made for each man of the same stuff, together with canvas; +which proved of great service to them. + +Some of our people appearing to have symptoms of the scurvy, the surgeons +began to give them fresh wort every day, made from the malt we had on board +for that purpose. One man in particular was highly scorbutic; and yet he +had been taking the rob of lemon and orange for some time, without being +benefited thereby. On the other hand, Captain Furneaux told me, that he had +two men, who, though far gone in this disease, were now in a manner +entirely cured by it. + +We continued standing to the eastward till eight o'clock in the morning of +the 21st; when, being in the latitude of 53 deg. 50', and longitude 29 deg. 24' E., +we hauled to the south, with the wind at west, a fresh gale and hazy, with +snow. In the evening the wind fell and the weather cleared up, so as that +we could see a few leagues round us; being in the latitude of 54 deg. 43' S. +longitude 29 deg. 30' E. + +At ten o'clock, seeing many islands of ice a-head, and the weather coming +on foggy, with snow, we wore and stood to the northward, till three in the +morning, when we stood again to the south. At eight, the weather cleared +up, and the wind came to W.S.W., with which we made all the sail we could +to the south; having never less than ten or twelve islands of ice in sight. + +Next day we had the wind at S.W. and S.S.W., a gentle gale, with now and +then showers of snow and hail. In the morning, being in the latitude of 55 deg. +20' S., and longitude 31 deg. 30' E., we hoisted out a boat to see if there was +any current, but found none. Mr Forster, who went in the boat, shot some of +the small grey birds before-mentioned, which were of the peterel tribe, and +about the size of a small pigeon. Their back, and upper side of their +wings, their feet and bills, are of a blue-grey colour. Their bellies, and +under side of their wings are white, a little tinged with blue. The upper +side of their quill feathers is a dark-blue tinged with black. A streak is +formed by feathers nearly of this colour, along the upper parts of the +wings, and crossing the back a little above the tail. The end of the tail +feathers is also of the same colour. Their bills are much broader than any +I have seen of the same tribe; and their tongues are remarkably broad. +These blue peterels, as I shall call them, are seen no where but in the +southern hemisphere, from about the latitude of 28 deg., and upwards. +Thermometer at 33 deg. in the open air, and 32 deg. in the sea at the surface, and +at 34-1/2 when drawn, and 6-1/2 minutes in drawing up from 100 fathoms +below it, where it had been sixteen minutes. + +On the 24th, the wind blew from N.W. to N.E., a gentle gale, fair and +cloudy. At noon we were by observation, in the latitude of 56 deg. 31' S, and +longitude 31 deg. 19' E., the thermometer at 35. And being near an island of +ice, which was about fifty feet high, and 400 fathoms in circuit, I sent +the master in the jolly-boat to see if any water run from it. He soon +returned with an account that there was not one drop, or any other +appearance of thaw. In the evening we sailed through several floats, or +fields of loose ice, lying in the direction of S.E. and N.W.; at the same +time we had continually several islands of the same composition in sight. + +On the 25th, the wind veering round from the N.E., by the east to south, it +blew a gentle gale; with which we stood to the W.S.W, and at noon were in +the latitude of 57 deg. 50' S., and longitude 29 deg. 32' E. The weather was fair +and cloudy; the air sharp and cold, attended with a hard frost. And, +although this was the middle of summer with us, I much question if the day +was colder in any part of England. The wind continued at south, blew a +fresh gale, fair and cloudy weather, till near noon the next day, when we +had clear sun-shine, and found ourselves, by observation, in the latitude +of 58 deg. 31' S., longitude 26 deg. 57' E. + +In the course of the last twenty-four hours we passed through several +fields of broken loose ice. They were in general narrow, but of a +considerable length, in the direction of N.W. and S.E. The ice was so close +in one, that it would hardly admit the ship through it. The pieces were +flat, from four to six or eight inches thick, and appeared of that sort of +ice which is generally formed in bays or rivers. Others again were +different; the pieces forming various honey-combed branches, exactly like +coral rocks, and exhibiting such a variety of figures as can hardly be +conceived. + +We supposed this ice to have broke from the main field we had lately left; +and which I was determined to get to the south of, or behind, if possible, +in order to satisfy myself whether or not it joined to any land, as had +been conjectured. With this view I kept on to the westward, with a gentle +gale at south, and S.S.W., and soon after six o'clock in the evening, we +saw some penguins, which occasioned us to sound; but we found no ground +with 150 fathoms. + +In the morning of the 27th, we saw more loose ice, but not many islands; +and those we did see were but small. The day being calm and pleasant, and +the sea smooth, we hoisted out a boat, from which Mr Forster shot a penguin +and some peterels. These penguins differ not from those seen in other parts +of the world, except in some minute particulars distinguishable only by +naturalists. Some of the peterels were of the blue sort, but differed from +those before-mentioned, in not having a broad bill; and the ends of their +tail feathers were tipped with white instead of dark-blue. But whether +these were only the distinctions betwixt the male and female, was a matter +disputed by our naturalists. We were now in the latitude of 58 deg. 19' S., +longitude 24 deg. 39' E., and took the opportunity of the calm, to sound; but +found no ground with a line of 220 fathoms. The calm continued till six in +the evening, when it was succeeded by a light breeze from the east, which +afterwards increased to a fresh gale. + +In the morning of the 28th I made the signal to the Adventure to spread +four miles on my starboard beam; and in this position we continued sailing +W.S.W., until four o'clock in the afternoon, when the hazy weather, +attended with snow showers, made it necessary for us to join. Soon after we +reefed our top-sails, being surrounded on all sides with islands of ice. In +the morning of the 29th we let them out again, and set top-gallant-sails; +still continuing our course to the westward, and meeting with several +penguins. At noon we were by observation in the latitude of 59 deg. 12', +longitude 19 deg. 1' E., which is 3 deg. more to the west than we were when we +first fell in with the field of ice; so that it is pretty clear that it +joined to no land, as we conjectured. + +Having come to a resolution to run as far west as the meridian of Cape +Circumcision, provided we met with no impediment, as the distance was not +more than eighty leagues, the wind favourable, and the sea seemed to be +pretty clear of ice, I sent on board for Captain Furneaux, to make him +acquainted therewith, and after dinner he returned to his ship. At one +o'clock we steered for an island of ice, thinking if there were any loose +ice round it, to take some on board, and convert it into fresh water. At +four we brought-to, close under the lee of the island, where we did not +find what we wanted, but saw upon it eighty-six penguins. This piece of ice +was about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet high and upwards, +for we lay for some minutes with every sail becalmed under it. The side on +which the penguins were, rose sloping from the sea, so as to admit them to +creep up it. + +It is a received opinion, that penguins never go far from land, and that +the sight of them is a sure indication of its vicinity. The opinion may +hold good where there are no ice islands; but where such are, these birds, +as well as many others which usually keep near the shores, finding a +roosting-place upon these islands, may be brought by them a great distance +from any land. It will, however, be said, that they must go on shore to +breed, that probably the females were there, and that these are only the +males which we saw. Be this as it may, I shall continue to take notice of +these birds whenever we see them, and leave every one to judge for himself. + +We continued our course to the westward, with a gentle gale at E.N.E., the +weather being sometimes tolerably clear, and at other times thick and hazy, +with snow. The thermometer for a few days past was from 31 to 36. At nine +o'clock the next morning, being the 30th, we shot one of the white birds, +upon which we lowered a boat into the water to take it up, and by that +means killed a penguin which weighed eleven pounds and a half. The white +bird was of the peterel tribe; the bill, which is rather short, is of a +colour between black and dark blue, and their legs and feet are blue. I +believe them to be the same sort of birds that Bouvet mentions to have seen +when he was off Cape Circumcision. + +We continued our westerly course till eight o'clock in the evening, when we +steered N.W., the point on which I reckoned the above-mentioned cape to +bear. At midnight we fell in with loose ice, which soon after obliged us to +tack, and stretch to the southward. At half an hour past two o'clock in the +morning of the 31st, we stood for it again, thinking to take some on board, +but this was found impracticable; for the wind, which had been at N.E, now +veered to S.E., and increasing to a fresh gale, brought with it such a sea +as made it very dangerous for the ships to remain among the ice. The danger +was yet farther increased by discovering an immense field to the north, +extending from N.E. by E. to S.W. by W. farther than the eye could reach. +As we were not above two or three miles from this, and surrounded by loose +ice, there was no time to deliberate. We presently wore; got our tacks on +board; hauled to the south, and soon got clear; but not before we had +received several hard knocks from the loose pieces, which were of the +largest sort, and among which we saw a seal. In the afternoon the wind +increased in such a manner, as to oblige us to hand the top-sails, and +strike top-gallant-yards. At eight o'clock we tacked and stood to the east +till midnight; when being in the latitude of 60 deg. 21' S., longitude 13 deg. 32' +E, we stood again to the west. + +1773 January + +Next day, towards noon, the gale abated, so that we could carry close- +reefed top-sails. But the weather continued thick and hazy, with sleet and +snow, which froze on the rigging as it fell, and ornamented the whole with +icicles; the mercury in the thermometer being generally below the freezing +point. This weather continued till near noon the next day; at which time we +were in the latitude of 59 deg. 12' S.; longitude 9 deg. 45' E.; and here we saw +some penguins. + +The wind had now veered to the west, and was so moderate, that we could +bear two reefs out of the top-sails. In the afternoon, we were favoured +with a sight of the moon, whose face we had seen but once since we left the +Cape of Good Hope. By this a judgment may be formed of the sort of weather +we had since we left that place. We did not fail to seize the opportunity +to make several observations of the sun and moon. The longitude deduced +from it was 9 deg. 34' 30" E. Mr Kendal's watch, at the same time, giving 10 deg. +6' E., and the latitude was 58 deg. 53' 30" S. + +This longitude is nearly the same that is assigned to Cape Circumcision; +and at the going down of the sun we were about ninety-five leagues to the +south of the latitude it is said to lie in. At this time the weather was so +clear, that we might have seen land at fourteen or fifteen leagues +distance. It is, therefore very probable, that what Bouvet took for land, +was nothing but mountains of ice, surrounded by loose or field-ice. We +ourselves were undoubtedly deceived by the ice-hills, the day we first fell +in with the field-ice. Nor was it an improbable conjecture, that that ice +joined to land. The probability was however now greatly lessened, if not +entirely set aside; for the space between the northern edge of the ice, +along which we sailed, and our route to the west, when south of it, no +where exceeded 100 leagues, and in some places not 60. The clear weather +continued no longer than three o'clock the next morning, when it was +succeeded by a thick fog, sleet, and snow. The wind also veered to N.E. and +blew a fresh gale, with which we stood to S.E. It increased in such a +manner, that before noon we were brought under close-reefed top-sails. The +wind continued to veer to the north, at last fixed at N.W., and was +attended with intervals of clear weather. + +Our course was E. 1/4 N., till noon the next day, when we were in the +latitude of 59 deg. 2' S., and nearly under the same meridian as we were when +we fell in with the last field of ice, five days before; so that had it +remained in the same situation, we must now have been in the middle of it, +whereas we did not so much as see any. We cannot suppose that so large a +float of ice as this was, could be destroyed in so short a time. It +therefore must have drifted to the northward: and this makes it probable +that there is no land under this meridian, between the latitude of 55 deg. and +59 deg., where we had supposed some to lie, as mentioned above. + +As we were now only sailing over a part of the sea where we had been +before, I directed the course E.S.E. in order to get more to the south. We +had the advantage of a fresh gale, and the disadvantage of a thick fog; +much snow and sleet, which, as usual, froze on our rigging as it fell; so +that every rope was covered with the finest transparent ice I ever saw. +This afforded an agreeable sight enough to the eye, but conveyed to the +mind an idea of coldness, much greater than it really was; for the weather +was rather milder then it had been for some time past, and the sea less +encumbered with ice. But the worst was, the ice so clogged the rigging, +sails, and blocks, as to make them exceedingly bad to handle. Our people, +however, surmounted those difficulties with a steady perseverance, and +withstood this intense cold much better than I expected. + +We continued to steer to the E.S.E. with a fresh gale at N.W. attended with +snow and sleet, till the 8th, when we were in the latitude of 61 deg. 12' S., +longitude 31 deg. 47' E. In the afternoon we passed more ice islands than we +had seen for several days. Indeed they were now so familiar to us, that +they were often passed unnoticed; but more generally unseen on account of +the thick weather. At nine o'clock in the evening, we came to one, which +had a quantity of loose ice about it. As the wind was moderate, and the +weather tolerably fair, we shortened sail, and stood on and off, with a +view of taking some on board on the return of light. But at four o'clock in +the morning, finding ourselves to leeward of this ice, we bore down to an +island to leeward of us; there being about it some loose ice, part of which +we saw break off. There we brought-to; hoisted out three boats; and in +about five or six hours, took up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of +good fresh water. The pieces we took up were hard, and solid as a rock; +some of them were so large, that we were obliged to break them with pick- +axes before they could be taken into the boats. + +The salt water which adhered to the ice, was so trifling as not to be +tasted, and, after it had lain on deck for a short time, entirely drained +off; and the water which the ice yielded, was perfectly sweet and well- +tasted. Part of the ice we broke in pieces, and put into casks; some we +melted in the coppers, and filled up the casks with the water; and some we +kept on deck for present use. The melting and stowing away the ice is a +little tedious, and takes up some time; otherwise this is the most +expeditious way of watering I ever met with. + +Having got on board this supply of water, and the Adventure about two- +thirds as much (of which we stood in great need,) as we had once broke the +ice, I did not doubt of getting more whenever we were in want. I therefore +without hesitation directed our course more to the south, with a gentle +gale at N.W., attended, as usual, with snow showers. In the morning of the +11th, being then in the latitude of 62 deg. 44' S., longitude 37 deg. E., the +variation of the compass was 24 deg. 10' W., and the following morning in the +latitude of 64 deg. 12' S., longitude 38 deg. 14' E., by the mean of three +compasses, it was no more than 23 deg. 52' W. In this situation we saw some +penguins; and being near an island of ice from which several pieces had +broken, we hoisted out two boats, and took on board as much as filled all +our empty casks, and the Adventure did the same. While this was doing, Mr +Forster shot an albatross, whose plumage was of a colour between brown and +dark-grey, the head and upper side of the wings rather inclining to black, +and it had white eye-brows. We began to see these birds about the time of +our first falling in with the ice islands; and some have accompanied us +ever since. These, and the dark-brown sort with a yellow bill, were the +only albatrosses that had not now forsaken us. + +At four o'clock p.m. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S.E., +with a gentle breeze at S. by W., attended with showers of snow. + +On the 13th, at two o'clock a. m. it fell calm. Of this we took the +opportunity to hoist out a boat, to try the current, which we found to set +N.W. near one-third of a mile an hour. At the time of trying the current, a +Fahrenheit's thermometer was immerged in the sea 100 fathoms below its +surface, where it remained twenty minutes. When it came up, the mercury +stood at 32, which is the freezing point. Some little time after, being +exposed to the surface of the sea, it rose to 33-1/2, and in the open air +to 36. The calm continued till five o'clock in the evening, when it was +succeeded by a light breeze from the S. and S.E., with which we stood to +the N.E. with all our sails set. + +Though the weather continued fair, the sky, as usual, was clouded. However, +at nine o'clock the next morning, it was clear; and we were enabled to +observe several distances between the sun and moon. The mean result of +which gave 39 deg. 30' 30" E. longitude. Mr Kendal's watch at the same time +gave 38 deg. 27' 45" which is 1 deg. 2' 45" W. of the observations; whereas, on the +3d instant, it was half a degree E. of them. + +In the evening I found the variation by the + mean of azimuths taken with Gregory's + compass to be 28 deg. 14' 0" + +By the mean of six azimuths by one of Dr + Knight's 28 32 0 + +And by another of Dr Knight's 28 34 0 + +Our latitude at this time was 63 deg. 57', longitude 39 deg. 38-1/2" + +The succeeding morning, the 15th, being then in latitude 63 deg. 33' S., the +longitude was observed by the following persons, viz. + +Myself, being the mean of six distances of + the sun and moon 40 deg. 1' 45" E. + +Mr Wales, ditto 39 29 45 + +Ditto, ditto 39 56 45 + +Lieutenant Clerke, ditto 39 38 0 + +Mr Gilbert, ditto 39 48 45 + +Mr Smith, ditto 39 18 15 + ---------- +Mean 39 42 12 + +Mr Kendal's watch made 38 41 30 + +which is nearly the same difference as the day before. But Mr Wales and I +took each of us six distances of the sun and moon, with the telescopes +fixed to our sextants, which brought out the longitude nearly the same as +the watch. + +The results were as follows:--By Mr Wales, 38 deg. 35' 30", and by me, 38 deg. 36' +45". + +It is impossible for me to say whether these or the former are the nearest +to the truth; nor can I assign any probable reason for so great a +disagreement. We certainly can observe with greater accuracy through the +telescope, than with the common sight, when the ship is sufficiently +steady. The use of the telescope is found difficult at first, but a little +practice will make it familiar. By the assistance of the watch, we shall be +able to discover the greatest error this method of observing the longitude +at sea is liable to; which at the greatest does not exceed a degree and a +half, and in general will be found to be much less. Such is the improvement +navigation has received by the astronomers and mathematical instrument- +makers of this age; by the former from the valuable tables they have +communicated to the public, under the direction of the Board of Longitude, +and contained in the astronomical ephemeris; and by the latter, from the +great accuracy they observe in making instruments, without which the tables +would, in a great measure, lose their effect. The preceding observations +were made by four different sextants, of different workmen. Mine was by Mr +Bird; one of Mr Wales's by Mr Dollond; the other and Mr Clerke's by Mr +Ramsden; as also Mr Gilbert's and Smith's, who observed with the same +instrument. + +Five tolerably fine days had now succeeded one another. This, besides +giving us an opportunity to make the preceding observations, was very +serviceable to us on many other accounts, and came at a very seasonable +time. For, having on board a good quantity of fresh water, or ice, which +was the same thing, the people were enabled to wash and dry their clothes +and linen; a care that can never be enough attended to in all long voyages. +The winds during this time blew in gentle gales, and the weather was mild. +Yet the mercury in the thermometer never rose above 36; and was frequently +as low as the freezing point. + +In the afternoon having but little wind, I brought-to under an island of +ice, and sent a boat to take up some. In the evening the wind freshened at +east, and was attended with snow showers and thick hazy weather, which +continued great part of the 16th. As we met with little ice, I stood to the +south, close hauled; and at six o'clock in the evening, being in the +latitude of 64 deg. 56' S., longitude 39 deg. 35' E. I found the variation by +Gregory's compass to be 26 deg. 41' W. At this time the motion of the ship was +so great that I could by no means observe with any of Dr Knight's +compasses. + +As the wind remained invariably fixed at E. and E. by S., I continued to +stand to the south; and on the 17th, between eleven and twelve o'clock, we +crossed the Antarctic Circle in the longitude of 39 deg. 35' E., for at noon we +were by observation in the latitude of 66 deg. 36' 30" S. The weather was now +become tolerably clear, so that we could see several leagues round us; and +yet we had only seen one island of ice since the morning. But about four +p.m. as we were steering to the south, we observed the whole sea in a +manner covered with ice, from the direction of S.E., round by the S. to W. + +In this space, thirty-eight ice islands, great and small, were seen, +besides loose ice in abundance, so that we were obliged to luff for one +piece, and bear up for another, and as we continued to advance to the +south, it increased in such a manner, that at three quarters past six +o'clock, being then in the latitude of 67 deg. 15' S., we could proceed no +farther; the ice being entirely closed to the south, in the whole extent +from E. to W.S.W., without the least appearance of any opening. This +immense field was composed of different kinds of ice; such as high hills, +loose or broken pieces packed close together, and what, I think, +Greenlandmen call field-ice. A float of this kind of ice lay to the S.E. of +us, of such extent, that I could see no end to it from the mast-head. It +was sixteen or eighteen feet high at least; and appeared of a pretty equal +height and surface. Here we saw many whales playing about the ice, and for +two days before had seen several flocks of the brown and white pintadoes, +which we named Antarctic peterels, because they seem to be natives of that +region. They are, undoubtedly, of the peterel tribe; are in every respect +shaped like the pintadoes, differing only from them in colour. The head and +fore-part of the body of these are brown; and the hind-part of the body, +tail, and the ends of the wings, are white. The white peterel also appeared +in greater numbers than before; some few dark-grey albatrosses, and our +constant companion the blue peterel. But the common pintadoes had quite +disappeared, as well as many other sorts, which are common in lower +latitudes. + +CHAPTER III. + +_Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent, between the Meridian of +the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an Account of the Separation of +the two Ships, and the Arrival of the Resolution in Dusky Bay._ + +1773 January + +After meeting with this ice, I did not think it was at all prudent to +persevere in getting farther to the south; especially as the summer was +already half spent, and it would have taken up some time to have got round +the ice, even supposing it to have been practicable; which, however, is +doubtful. I therefore came to a resolution to proceed directly in search of +the land lately discovered by the French. And, as the winds still continued +at E. by S., I was obliged to return to the north, over some part of the +sea I had already made myself acquainted with, and, for that reason, wished +to have avoided. But this was not to be done, as our course made good, was +little better than north. In the night the wind increased to a strong gale, +attended with sleet and snow, and obliged us to double-reef our top-sails. +About noon the next day the gale abated, so that we could bear all our +reefs out; but the wind still remained in its old quarter. + +In the evening, being in the latitude of 64 deg. 12' S., longitude 40 deg. 15' E., +a bird, called by us in my former voyage Port Egmont Hen, (on account of +the great plenty of them at Port Egmont in Falkland Isles,) came hovering +several times over the ship, and then left us in the direction of N.E. They +are a short thick bird, about the size of a large crow, of a dark-brown or +chocolate colour, with a whitish streak under each wing, in the shape of a +half-moon. I have been told that these birds are found in great plenty at +the Fero Isles, North of Scotland; and that they never go far from land. +Certain it is, I never before saw them above forty leagues off; but I do +not remember ever seeing fewer than two together; whereas here was but one, +which, with the islands of ice, may have come a good way from land. + +At nine o'clock, the wind veering to E.N.E., we tacked and stood to the +S.S.E, but at four in the morning of the 20th, it returned back to its old +point, and we resumed our northerly course. One of the above birds was seen +this morning, probably the same we saw the night before, as our situation +was not much altered. As the day advanced, the gale increased, attended +with thick hazy weather, sleet, and snow, and at last obliged us to close- +reef our top-sails, and strike top-gallant-yards. But in the evening the +wind abated so as to admit us to carry whole top-sails, and top-gallant- +yards aloft. Hazy weather, with snow and sleet continued. + +In the afternoon of the 21st, being in the latitude of 62 deg. 24' S., +longitude 42 deg. 19' E., we saw a white albatross with black tipped wings, and +a pintado bird. The wind was now at S. and S.W., a fresh gale. With this we +steered N.E., against a very high sea, which did not indicate the vicinity +of land in that quarter; and yet it was there we were to expect it. The +next day we had intervals of fair weather, the wind was moderate, and we +carried our studding-sails. In the morning of the 23d, we were in +latitude of 60 deg. 27' S., longitude 45 deg. 33' E. Snow showers continued, and +the weather was so cold, that the water in our water-vessels on deck had +been frozen for several preceding nights. + +Having clear weather at intervals, I spread the ships a-breast four miles +from each other, in order the better to discover any thing that might lie +in our way. We continued to sail in this manner till six o'clock in the +evening, when hazy weather and snow showers made it necessary for us to +join. + +We kept our course to N.E. till eight o'clock in the morning of the 25th, +when the wind having veered round to N.E. by E., by the W. and N. we +tacked, and stood to N.W. The wind was fresh, and yet we made but little +way against a high northerly sea. We now began to see some of that sort of +peterels so well known to sailors by the name of sheerwaters, latitude 58 deg. +10', longitude 50 deg. 54' E. In the afternoon the wind veered to the southward +of east; and at eight o'clock in the evening, it increased to a storm, +attended with thick hazy weather, sleet and snow. + +During night we went under our fore-sail and main-top-sail close-reefed: At +day-light the next morning, added to them the fore and mizen top-sails. At +four o'clock it fell calm; but a prodigious high sea from the N.E., and a +complication of the worst of weather, viz. snow, sleet, and rain, +continued, together with the calm, till nine o'clock in the evening. Then +the weather cleared up, and we got a breeze at S.E. by S. With this we +steered N. by E. till eight o'clock the next morning, being the 27th, when +I spread the ships, and steered N.N.E., all sails set, having a fresh +breeze at S. by W., and clear weather. + +At noon we were by observation, in the latitude of 56 deg. 28' S., and, about +three o'clock in the afternoon, the sun and moon appearing at intervals, +their distances were observed by the following persons; and the longitude +resulting therefrom was, + +By Mr Wales, (the mean of two sets) 50 deg. 59' East. +Lieutenant Clerke 51 11 +Mr Gilbert 50 14 +Mr Smith 50 50 +Mr Kendal's watch 50 50 + +At six o'clock in the evening, being in latitude 56 deg. 9' S., I now made +signal to the Adventure to come under my stern; and at eight o'clock the +next morning sent her to look out on my starboard beam, having at this time +a fresh gale at west and pretty clear weather. But this was not of long +duration; for, at two in the afternoon, the sky became cloudy and hazy, the +wind increased to a fresh gale, blew in squalls attended with snow, sleet, +and drizzling rain. I now made signal to the Adventure to come under my +stern, and took another reef in each top-sail. At eight o'clock I hauled up +the main-sail, and run all night under the foresail, and two top-sails; our +course being N.N.E. and N.E. by N., with a strong gale at N.W. + +The 29th, at noon, we observed in latitude 52 deg. 29' S., the weather being +fair and tolerably clear. But in the afternoon, it again became very thick +and hazy with rain; and the gale increased in such a manner as to oblige us +to strike top-gallant yards, close-reef and hand the top-sails. We spent +part of the night, which was very dark and stormy, in making a tack to the +S.W., and in the morning of the 30th, stood again to the N.E., wind at N.W. +and N., a very fresh gale; which split several of our small sails. This day +no ice was seen, probably owing to the thick hazy weather. At eight o'clock +in the evening we tacked and stood to the westward, under our courses; but +as the sea run high, we made our course no better than S.S.W. + +At four o'clock the next morning, the gale had a little abated; and the +wind had backed to W. by S. We again stood to the northward, under courses +and double-reefed top-sails, having a very high sea from the N.N.W., which +gave us but little hopes of finding the land we were in search of. At noon +we were in the latitude of 50 deg. 56' S., longitude 56 deg. 48' E., and presently +after we saw two islands of ice. One of these we passed very near, and +found that it was breaking or falling to pieces, by the cracking noise it +made; which was equal to the report of a four-pounder. There was a good +deal of loose ice about it; and had the weather been favourable, I should +have brought-to, and taken some up. After passing this, we saw no more, +till we returned again to the south. + +1773 February + +Hazy gloomy weather continued, and the wind remained invariably fixed at +N.W., so that we could make our course no better than N.E. by N., and this +course we held till four o'clock in the afternoon of the first of February. +Being then in the latitude of 48 deg. 30', and longitude 58 deg. 7' E., nearly in +the meridian of the island of Mauritius, and where we were to expect to +find the land said to be discovered by the French, of which at this time we +saw not the least signs, we bore away east. + +I now made the signal to the Adventure to keep at the distance of four +miles on my starboard beam. At half an hour past six, Captain Furneaux made +the signal to speak with me; and upon his coming under my stern, he +informed me that he had just seen a large float of sea or rock weed, and +about it several birds (divers.) These were certainly signs of the vicinity +of land; but whether it lay to the east or west, was not possible for us to +know. My intention was to have got into this latitude four or five degrees +of longitude to the west of the meridian we were in, and then to have +carried on my researches to the east. But the west and north-west winds we +had had the five preceding days, prevented me from putting this in +execution. + +The continual high sea we had lately had from the N.E., N., N.W. and W., +left me no reason to believe that land of any extent lay to the West. We +therefore continued to steer to the east, only lying-to a few hours in the +night, and in the morning resumed our course again, four miles north and +south from each other; the hazy weather not permitting us to spread +farther. We passed two or three small pieces of rock weed, and saw two or +three birds known by the name of egg-birds; but saw no other signs of land. +At noon we observed in latitude 48 deg. 36' S., longitude 59 deg. 35' E. As we +could only see a few miles farther to the south, and as it was not +impossible that there might be land not far off in that direction, I gave +orders to steer S. 1/2 E., and made the signal for the Adventure to follow, +she being by this movement thrown a-stern: The weather continuing hazy till +half an hour past six o'clock in the evening, when it cleared up so as to +enable us to see about five leagues round us. + +Being now in the latitude of 49 deg. 13' S., without having the least signs of +land, I wore and stood again to the eastward, and soon after spoke with +Captain Furneaux. He told me that he thought the land was to the N.W. of +us,; as he had, at one time, observed the sea to be smooth when the wind +blew in that direction. Athough this was not conformable to the remarks +_we_ had made on the sea, I resolved to clear up the point, if the wind +would admit of my getting to the west in any reasonable time. + +At eight o'clock in the morning of the 3d, being in the latitude of 48 deg. 56' +S. longitude 60 deg. 47' E., and upwards of 8 deg. to the east of the meridian of +the Mauritius, I began to despair of finding land to the east; and as the +wind had now veered to the north, resolved to search for it to the west. I +accordingly tacked and stood to the west with a fresh gale. This increased +in such a manner, that, before night, we were reduced to our two courses; +and, at last, obliged to lie-to under the fore-sails, having a prodigious +high sea from W.N.W., notwithstanding the height of the gale was from N. by +W. At three o'clock the next morning, the gale abating, we made sail, and +continued to ply to the west till ten o'clock in the morning of the 6th. + +At this time, being in the latitude of 48 deg. 6' S., longitude 58 deg. 22' E., the +wind seemingly fixed at W.N.W., and seeing no signs of meeting with land, I +gave over plying, and bore away east a little southerly: Being satisfied, +that if there is any land hereabout, it can only be an isle of no great +extent. And it was just as probable I might have found it to the E. as to +the W. + +While we were plying about here we took every opportunity to observe the +variation of the compass, and found it to be from 27 deg. 50' to 30 deg. 26' W. +Probably the mean of the two extremes, viz. 29 deg. 4', is the nearest the +truth, as it nearly agrees with the variation observed on board the +Adventure. In making these observations, we found that, when the sun was on +the larboard side of the ship, the variation was the least; and when on the +starboard side, the greatest. This was not the first time we had made this +observation, without being able to account for it. At four o'clock in the +morning of the 7th, I made the Adventure's signal to keep at the distance +of four miles on my starboard beam; and continued to steer E.S.E. This +being a fine day, I had all our men's bedding and clothes spread on deck to +air; and the ship cleaned and smoked betwixt decks. At noon I steered a +point more to the south, being then in the latitude of 45 deg. 49' S., +longitude 61 deg. 48' E. At six o'clock in the evening, I called in the +Adventure; and at the same time took several azimuths, which gave the +variation 31 deg. 28'.W. These observations could not be taken with the +greatest accuracy, on account of the rolling of the ship, occasioned by a +very high westerly swell. + +The preceding evening, three Port Egmont hens were seen; this morning +another appeared. In the evening, and several times in the night, penguins +were heard; and, at daylight in the morning of the 8th, several of these +were seen; and divers of two sorts, seemingly such as are usually met with +on the coast of England. This occasioned us to sound, but we found no +ground with a line of 210 fathoms. Our latitude now was 49 deg. 53' S., and +longitude 63 deg. 39' E. This was at eight o'clock. By this time the wind had +veered round by the N.E. to E., blew a brisk gale, and was attended with +hazy weather, which soon after turned to a thick fog; and, at the same +tine, the wind shifted to N.E. + +I continued to keep the wind on the larboard tack, and to fire a gun every +hour till noon; when I made the signal to tack, and tacked accordingly. +But, as neither this signal, nor any of the former, was answered by the +Adventure, we had but too much reason to think that a separation had taken +place; though we were at a loss to tell how it had been effected. I had +directed Captain Furneaux, in case he was separated from me, to cruise +three days in the place where he last saw me. I therefore continued making +short boards, and firing half-hour guns, till the 9th in the afternoon, +when, the weather having cleared up, we could see several leagues round us, +and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of our horizon. At +this time we were about two or three leagues to the eastward of the +situation we were in when we last saw her; and were standing to the +westward with a very strong gale at N.N.W., accompanied with a great sea +from the same direction. This, together, with an increase of wind, obliged +us to lie-to till eight o'clock the next morning, during which time we saw +nothing of the Adventure, notwithstanding the weather was pretty clear, and +we had kept firing guns, and burning false fires, all night. I therefore +gave over looking for her, made sail, and steered S.E., with a very fresh +gale at W. by N., accompanied with a high sea from the same direction. + +While we were beating about here; we frequently saw penguins and divers, +which made us conjecture the land was not far off; but in what direction it +was not possible for us to tell. As we advanced to the south, we lost the +penguins, and most of the divers; and, as usual, met with abundance of +albatrosses, blue peterels, sheer-waters, &c. + +The 11th, at noon, and in the latitude of 51 deg. 15' S., longitude 67 deg. 20' E., +we again met with penguins: and saw an egg bird, which we also look upon to +be a sign of the vicinity of land. I continued to steer to the S.E., with a +fresh gale in the north-west quarter, attended with a long hollow swell, +and frequent showers of rain, hail, and snow. The 12th, in the morning, +being in the latitude of 52 deg. 32' S., longitude 69 deg. 47' E., the variation +was 31 deg. 38' W. In the evening, in the latitude of 53 deg. 7' S., longitude 70 deg. +50' E., it was 32 deg. 33'; and, the next morning, in the latitude of 53 deg. 37' +S., longitude 72 deg. 10', it was 33 deg. 8' W. Thus far we had continually a great +number of penguins about the ship, which seemed to be different from those +we had seen near the ice; being smaller, with reddish bills and brownish +heads. The meeting with so many of these birds, gave us some hopes of +finding land, and occasioned various conjectures about its situation. The +great westerly swell, which still continued, made it improbable that land +of any considerable extent lay to the west. Nor was it very probable that +any lay to the north; as we were only about 160 leagues to the south of +Tasman's track in 1642; and I conjectured that Captain Furneaux would +explore this place; which accordingly happened. In the evening we saw a +Port Egmont hen, which flew away in the direction of N.E. by E., and the +next morning a seal was seen; but no penguins. In the evening, being in the +latitude of 55 deg. 49' S., longitude 75 deg. 52' E., the variation was 34 deg. 48' W., +and, in the evening of the 15th, in latitude 57 deg. 2' S., longitude 79 deg. 56' +E., it was 38 deg. W. Five seals were seen this day, and a few penguins; which +occasioned us to sound, without finding any bottom, with a line of 150 +fathoms. + +At day-light in the morning of the 16th, we saw an island of ice to the +northward; for which we steered, in order to take some on board; but the +wind shifting to that direction, hindered us from putting this in +execution. At this time we were in the latitude of 57 deg. 8' S., longitude 80 deg. +59' E., and had two islands of ice in sight. This morning we saw one +penguin, which appeared to be of the same sort which we had formerly seen +near the ice. But we had now been so often deceived by these birds, that we +could no longer look upon them, nor indeed upon any other oceanic birds, +which frequent high latitudes, as sure signs of the vicinity of land. + +The wind continued not long at north, but veered to E. by N.E., and blew a +gentle gale, with which we stood to the southward; having frequent showers +of sleet and snow. But, in the night, we had fair weather, and a clear +serene sky; and, between midnight and three o'clock in the morning, lights +were seen in the heavens, similar to those in the northern hemisphere, +known by the name of Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights; but I never heard +of the Aurora Australia been seen before. The officer of the watch observed +that it sometimes broke out in spiral rays, and in a circular form; then +its light was very strong, and its appearance beautiful. He could not +perceive it had any particular direction; for it appeared, at various +times, in different parts of the heavens, and diffused its light throughout +the whole atmosphere. + +At nine in the morning, we bore down to an island of ice which we reached +by noon. It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred feet high at +least, though very little loose ice about it. But while we were considering +whether or no we should hoist out our boats to take some up, a great +quantity broke from the island. Upon this we hoisted out our boats, and +went to work to get some on board. The pieces of ice, both great and small, +which broke from the island, I observed, drifted fast to the westward; that +is, they left the island in that direction, and were, in a few hours, +spread over a large space of sea. This, I have no doubt, was caused by a +current setting in that direction. For the wind could have but little +effect upon the ice; especially as there was a large hollow swell from the +west. This circumstance greatly retarded our taking up ice. We, however, +made a shift to get on board about nine or ten tons before eight o'clock, +when we hoisted in the boats and made sail to the east, inclining to the +south, with a fresh gale at south; which, soon after, veered to S.S.W. and +S.W., with fair but cloudy weather. This course brought us among many ice +isles; so that it was necessary to proceed with great caution. In the night +the mercury in the thermometer fell two degrees below the freezing point; +and the water in the scuttle casks on deck was frozen. As I have not taken +notice of the thermometer of late, I shall now observe, that, as we +advanced to the north, the mercury gradually rose to 45, and fell again, as +we advanced to the south, to what is above-mentioned; nor did it rise, in +the middle of the day, to above 34 or 35. + +In the morning of the 18th, being in the latitude of 57 deg. 54' S., longitude +83 deg. 14' E., the variation was 39 deg. 33' W. In the evening, in latitude 58 deg. 2' +S., longitude 84 deg. 35' E., it was only 37 deg. 8' W., which induced me to +believe it was decreasing. But in the evening of the 20th, in the latitude +of 58 deg. 47' S., longitude 90 deg. 56' E., I took nine azimuths, with Dr Knight's +compass, which gave the variation 40 deg. 7', and nine others, with Gregory's, +which gave 40 deg. 15' W. + +This day, at noon, being nearly in the latitude and longitude just +mentioned, we thought we saw land to the S.W. The appearance was so strong +that we doubted not it was there in reality, and tacked to work up to it +accordingly; having a light breeze at south, and clear weather. We were, +however, soon undeceived, by finding that it was only clouds; which, in the +evening, entirely disappeared, and left us a clear horizon, so that we +could see a considerable way round us; in which space nothing was to be +seen but ice islands. + +In the night the Aurora Australis made a very brilliant and luminous +appearance. It was seen first in the east, a little above the horizon; and, +in a short time, spread over the whole heavens. + +The 21st, in the morning, having little wind and a smooth sea, two +favourable circumstances for taking up ice, I steered for the largest ice +island before us, which we reached by noon. At this time, we were in the +latitude of 59 deg. S., longitude 92 deg. 30' E.; having about two hours before +seen three or four penguins. Finding here a good quantity of loose ice, I +ordered two boats out, and sent them to take some on board. While this was +doing, the island, which was not less than half a mile in circuit, and +three or four hundred feet high above the surface of the sea, turned nearly +bottom up. Its height, by this circumstance, was neither increased nor +diminished apparently. As soon as we had got on board as much ice as we +could dispose of, we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to the S.E., with +a gentle breeze at N. by E., attended with showers of snow, and dark gloomy +weather. At this time we had but few ice islands in sight, but, the next +day, seldom less than twenty or thirty were seen at once. + +The wind gradually veered to the east; and, at last, fixing at E. by S., +blew a fresh gale. With this we stood to the south, till eight o'clock in +the evening of the 23d; at which time we were in the latitude of 61 deg. 52' +S., longitude 95 deg. 2' E. We now tacked and spent the night, which was +exceedingly stormy, thick, and hazy, with sleet and snow, in making short +boards. Surrounded on every side with danger, it was natural for us to wish +for day-light. This, when it came, served only to increase our +apprehensions, by exhibiting to our view those huge mountains of ice, which +in the night we had passed without seeing. + +These unfavourable circumstances, together with dark nights, at this +advanced season of the year, quite discouraged me from putting in execution +a resolution I had taken of crossing the Antarctic Circle once more. +Accordingly, at four o'clock in the morning, we stood to the north, with a +very hard gale at E.S.E., accompanied with snow and sleet, and a very high +sea from the same point, which made great destruction among the ice +islands. This circumstance, far from being of any advantage to us, greatly +increased the number of pieces we had to avoid. The large pieces which +break from the ice islands, are much more dangerous than the islands +themselves. The latter are so high out of water, that we can generally see +them, unless the weather be very thick and dark, before we are very near +them. Whereas the others cannot be seen in the night, till they are under +the ship's bows. These dangers were, however, now become so familiar to us, +that the apprehensions they caused were never of long duration; and were, +in some measure, compensated both by the seasonable supplies of fresh water +these ice islands afforded us, (without which we must have been greatly +distressed,) and also by their very romantic appearance, greatly heightened +by the foaming and dashing of the waves into the curious holes and caverns +which are formed in many of them; the whole exhibiting a view which at once +filled the mind with admiration and horror, and can only be described by +the hand of an able painter. + +Towards the evening the gale abated, and in the night we had two or three +hours calm. This was succeeded by a light breeze at west, with which we +steered east, under all the sail we could set, meeting with many ice +islands. + +This night we saw a Port Egmont hen; and next morning, being the 25th, +another. We had lately seen but few birds; and those were albatrosses, +sheer-waters, and blue peterels. It is remarkable that we did not see one +of either the white or Antarctic peterels, since we came last amongst the +ice. Notwithstanding the wind kept at W. and N.W. all day, we had a very +high sea from the east, by which we concluded that no land could be near in +that direction. In the evening, being in the latitude 60 deg. 51', longitude +95 deg. 41' E., the variation was 43 deg. 6' W., and the next morning, being the +26th, having advanced about a degree and a half more to the east, it was +41 deg. 30', both being determined by several azimuths. + +We had fair weather all the afternoon, but the wind was unsettled, veering +round by the north to the east. With this we stood to the S.E. and E., till +three o'clock in the afternoon; when, being in the latitude of 61 deg. 21' S., +longitude 97 deg. 7', we tacked and stood to the northward and eastward as the +wind kept veering to the south. This, in the evening, increased to a strong +gale, blew in squalls, attended with snow and sleet, and thick hazy +weather, which soon brought us under our close-reefed top-sails. + +Between eight in the morning of the 26th, and noon the next day, we fell in +among several islands of ice; from whence such vast quantities had broken +as to cover the sea all round us, and render sailing rather dangerous. +However, by noon, we were clear of it all. In the evening the wind abated, +and veered to S.W. but the weather did not clear up till the next morning, +when we were able to carry all our sails, and met with but very few islands +of ice to impede us. Probably the late gale had destroyed a great number of +them. Such a very large hollow sea had continued to accompany the wind as +it veered from E. to S.W. that I was certain no land of considerable extent +could lie within 100 or 150 leagues of our situation between these two +points. + +The mean height of the thermometer at noon, for some days past, was at +about 35, which is something higher than it usually was in the same +latitude about a month or five weeks before, consequently the air was +something warmer. While the weather was really _warm_, the gales were +not only stronger, but more frequent, with almost continual misty, dirty, +wet weather. The very animals we had on board felt its effects. A sow +having in the morning farrowed nine pigs, every one of them was killed by +the cold before four o'clock in the afternoon, notwithstanding all the care +we could take of them. From the same cause, myself as well as several of my +people, had fingers and toes chilblained. Such is the summer weather we +enjoyed! + +1773 March + +The wind continued unsettled, veering from the south to the west, and blew +a fresh gale till the evening. Then it fell little wind, and soon after a +breeze sprung up at north, which quickly veered to N.E. and N.E. by E., +attended with a thick fog, snow, sleet, and rain. With this wind and +weather we kept on to the S.E., till four o'clock in the afternoon of the +next day, being the first of March, when it fell calm, which continued for +near twenty-four hours. We were now in the latitude of 60 deg. 36' S., +longitude 107 deg. 54', and had a prodigious high swell from the S.W., and, at +the same time, another from the S. or S.S.E. The dashing of the one wave +against the other, made the ship both roll and pitch exceedingly; but at +length the N.W. swell prevailed. The calm continued till noon the next day, +when it was succeeded by a gentle breeze from S.E., which afterwards +increased and veered to S.W. With this we steered N.E. by E., and E. by N., +under all the sail we could set. + +In the afternoon of the 3d, being in latitude 60 deg. 13', longitude 110 deg. 18', +the variation was 39 deg. 4' W. But the observations, by which this was +determined, were none of the best, being obliged to make use of such as we +could get, during the very few and short intervals when the sun appeared. A +few penguins were seen this day, but not so many islands of ice as usual. +The weather was also milder, though very changeable; thermometer from 36 to +38. We continued to have a N.W. swell, although the wind was unsettled, +veering to N.W. by the W. and N., attended with hazy sleet and drizzling +rain. + +We prosecuted our course to the east, inclining to the south, till three +o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th, when, (being in the latitude of 60 deg. +37', longitude 113 deg. 24') the wind shifting at once to S.W. and S.W. by S., +I gave orders to steer E. by N. 1/2 N. But in the night we steered E. 1/2 +S. in order to have the wind, which was at S.S.W., more upon the beam, the +better to enable us to stand back, in case we fell in with any danger in +the dark. For we had not so much time to spare to allow us to lie-to. + +In the morning of the 5th, we steered E. by N., under all the sail we could +set, passing one ice island and many small pieces, and at nine o'clock the +wind, which of late had not remained long upon any one point, shifted all +at once to east, and blew a gentle gale. With this, we stood to the north, +at which time we were in the latitude of 60 deg. 44' S., and longitude 116 deg. 50' +E. The latitude was determined by the meridian altitude of the sun, which +appeared, now and then, for a few minutes, till three in the afternoon. +Indeed the sky was, in general, so cloudy, and the weather so thick and +hazy, that we had very little benefit of sun or moon; very seldom seeing +the face of either the one or the other. And yet, even under these +circumstances, the weather, for some days past, could not be called very +cold. It, however, had not the least pretension to be called summer +weather, according to my ideas of summer in the northern hemisphere, as far +as 60 deg. of latitude, which is nearly as far north as I have been. + +In the evening we had three islands of ice in sight, all of them large; +especially one, which was larger than any we had yet seen. The side opposed +to us seemed to be a mile in extent; if so, it could not be less than three +in circuit. As we passed it in the night, a continual cracking was heard, +occasioned, no doubt, by pieces breaking from it. For, in the morning of +the 6th, the sea, for some distance round it, was covered with large and +small pieces; and the island itself did not appear so large as it had done +the evening before. It could not be less than 100 feet high; yet such was +the impetuous force and height of the waves which were broken against it, +by meeting with such a sudden resistance, that they rose considerably +higher. In the evening we were in latitude of 59 deg. 58' S., longitude 118 deg. +39' E. The 7th, the wind was variable in the N.E. and S.E. quarters, +attended with snow and sleet till the evening. Then the weather became +fair, the sky cleared up, and the night was remarkably pleasant, as well as +the morning of the next day; which, for the brightness of the sky, and +serenity and mildness of the weather, gave place to none we had seen since +we left the Cape of Good Hope. It was such as is little known in this sea; +and to make it still more agreeable, we had not one island of ice in sight. +The mercury in the thermometer rose to 40. Mr Wales and the master made +some observations of the moon and stars, which satisfied us, that, when our +latitude was 59 deg. 44', our longitude was 121 deg. 9'. At three o'clock in the +afternoon, the calm was succeeded by a breeze at S.E. The sky, at the same +time, was suddenly obscured, and seemed to presage an approaching storm, +which accordingly happened. For, in the evening, the wind shifted to south, +blew in squalls, attended with sleet and rain, and a prodigious high sea. +Having nothing to take care of but ourselves, we kept two or three points +from the wind, and run at a good rate to the E.N.E. under our two courses, +and close-reefed topsails. + +The gale continued till the evening of the 10th. Then it abated; the wind +shifted to the westward; and we had fair weather, and but little wind, +during the night; attended with a sharp frost. The next morning, being in +the latitude of 57 deg. 56', longitude 130 deg., the wind shifted to N.E., and blew +a fresh gale, with which we stood S.E., having frequent showers of snow and +sleet, and a long hollow swell from S.S.E. and S.E. by S. This swell did +not go down till two days after the wind which raised it had not only +ceased to blow, but had shifted, and blown fresh at opposite points, good +part of the time. Whoever attentively considers this, must conclude, that +there can be no land to the south, but what must be at a great distance. + +Notwithstanding so little was to be expected in that quarter, we continued +to stand to the south till three o'clock in the morning of the 12th, when +we were stopped by a calm; being then in the latitude of 58 deg. 56' S., +longitude 131 deg. 26' E. After a few hours calm, a breeze sprung up at west, +with which we steered east. The S.S.E. swell having gone down, was +succeeded by another from N.W. by W. The weather continued mild all this +day, and the mercury rose to 39-1/2. In the evening it fell calm, and +continued so till three o'clock in the morning of the 13th, when we got the +wind at E. and S.E., a fresh breeze attended with snow and sleet. In the +afternoon it became fair, and the wind veered round to the S. and S.S.W. In +the evening, being in the latitude of 58 deg. 59', longitude 134 deg., the weather +was so clear in the horizon, that we could see many leagues round us. We +had but little wind during the night, some showers of snow, and a very +sharp frost. As the day broke, the wind freshened at S.E. and S.S.E.; and +soon after, the sky cleared up, and the weather became clear and serene; +but the air continued cold, and the mercury in the thermometer rose only +one degree above the freezing point. + +The clear weather gave Mr Wales an opportunity to get some observations of +the sun and moon. Their results reduced to noon, when the latitude was 58 deg. +22' S., gave us 136 deg. 22' E. longitude. Mr Kendal's watch at the same time +gave 134 deg. 42'; and that of Mr Arnold the same. This was the first and only +time they pointed out the same longitude since we left England. The +greatest difference, however, between them, since we left the Cape, had not +much exceeded two degrees. + +The moderate, and I might almost say, pleasant weather, we had, at times, +for the last two or three days, made me wish I had been a few degrees of +latitude farther south; and even tempted me to incline our course that way. +But we soon had weather which convinced us that we were full far enough; +and that the time was approaching, when these seas were not to be navigated +without enduring intense cold; which, by the bye, we were pretty well used +to. In the afternoon, the serenity of the sky was presently obscured: The +wind veered round by the S.W. to W., and blew in hard squalls, attended +with thick and heavy showers of hail and snow, which continually covered +our decks, sails, and rigging, till five o'clock in the evening of the +15th. At this time, the wind abated, and shifted to S.E.; the sky cleared +up; and the evening was so serene and clear, that we could see many leagues +round us; the horizon being the only boundary to our sight. + +We were now in the latitude of 59 deg. 17' S., longitude 140 deg. 12' E., and had +such a large hollow swell from W.S.W., as assured us that we had left no +land behind us in that direction. I was also well assured that no land lay +to the south on this side 60 deg. of latitude. We had a smart frost during the +night, which was curiously illuminated with the southern lights. + +At ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, (which was as soon as the sun +appeared,) in the latitude of 58 deg. 51' S., our longitude was 144 deg. 10' E. +This good weather was, as usual, of short duration. In the afternoon of +this day, we had again thick snow showers; but, at intervals, it was +tolerably clear; and, in the evening being in the latitude of 58 deg. 58' S., +longitude 144 deg. 37' E., I found the variation by several azimuths to be +31' E. + +I was not a little pleased with being able to determine, with so much +precision, this point of the Line, in which the compass has no variation. +For I look upon half a degree as next to nothing; so that the intersection +of the latitude and longitude just mentioned, may be reckoned the point +without any sensible error. At any rate, the Line can only pass a very +small matter west of it. + +I continued to steer to the east, inclining to the south, with a fresh gale +at S.W., till five o'clock the next morning, when, being in the latitude of +59 deg. 7' S., longitude 146 deg. 53' E., I bore away N.E., and, at noon, north, +having come to a resolution to quit the high southern latitudes, and to +proceed to New Zealand to look for the Adventure, and to refresh my people. +I had also some thoughts, and even a desire to visit the east coast of Van +Diemen's Land, in order to satisfy myself if it joined the coast of New +South Wales. + +In the night of the 17th, the wind shifted to N.W., and blew in squalls, +attended with thick hazy weather and rain. This continued all the 18th, in +the evening of which day, being in the latitude of 56 deg. 15' S., longitude +150 deg., the sky cleared up, and we found the variation by several azimuths to +be 13 deg. 30' E. Soon after, we hauled up, with the log, a piece of rock-weed, +which was in a state of decay, and covered with barnacles. In the night the +southern lights were very bright. + +The next morning we saw a seal; and towards noon, some penguins, and more +rock-weed, being at this time in the latitude of 55 deg. 1', longitude 152 deg. 1' +E. In the latitude of 54 deg. 4', we also saw a Port Egmont hen, and some weed. +Navigators have generally looked upon all these to be certain signs of the +vicinity of land; I cannot, however, support this opinion. At this time we +knew of no land, nor is it even probable that there is any, nearer than New +Holland, or Van Diemen's Land, from which we were distant 260 leagues. We +had, at the same time, several porpoises playing about us; into one of +which Mr Cooper struck a harpoon; but as the ship was running seven knots, +it broke its hold, after towing it some minutes, and before we could deaden +the ship's way. + +As the wind, which continued between the north and the west, would not +permit me to touch at Van Diemen's Land, I shaped my course to New Zealand; +and, being under no apprehensions of meeting with any danger, I was not +backward in carrying sail, as well by night as day, having the advantage of +a very strong gale, which was attended with hazy rainy weather, and a very +large swell from the W. and W.S.W. We continued to meet with, now and then, +a seal, Port Egmont hens, and sea-weed. + +On the morning of the 22d, the wind shifted to south, and brought with it +fair weather. At noon, we found ourselves in the latitude of 49 deg. 55', +longitude 159 deg. 28', having a very large swell out of the S.W. For the three +days past, the mercury in the thermometer had risen to 46, and the weather +was quite mild. Seven or eight degrees of latitude had made a surprising +difference in the temperature of the air, which we felt with an agreeable +satisfaction. + +We continued to advance to the N.E. at a good rate, having a brisk gale +between the S. and E.; meeting with seals, Port Egmont hens, egg birds, +sea-weed, &c. and having constantly a very large swell from the S.W. At ten +o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the land of New Zealand was seen from +the mast-head; and at noon, from the deck; extending from N.E. by E. to E., +distant ten leagues. As I intended to put into Dusky Bay, or any other port +I could find, on the southern part of _Tavai Poenammoo_, we steered in +for the land, under all the sail we could carry, having the advantage of a +fresh gale at W., and tolerably clear weather. This last was not of long +duration; for, at half an hour after four o'clock, the land, which was not +above four miles distant, was in a manner wholly obscured in a thick haze. +At this time, we were before the entrance of a bay, which I had mistaken +for Dusky Bay, being deceived by some islands that lay in the mouth of it. + +Fearing to run, in thick weather, into a place to which we were all +strangers, and seeing some breakers and broken ground a-head, I tacked in +twenty-five fathom water, and stood out to sea with the wind at N.W. This +bay lies on the S.E. side of Cape West, and may be known by a white cliff +on one of the isles which lies in the entrance of the bay. This part of the +coast I did not see, but at a great distance, in my former voyage; and we +now saw it under so many disadvantageous circumstances, that the less I say +about it, the fewer mistakes I shall make. We stood out to sea, under +close-reefed top-sails and courses, till eleven o'clock at night; when we +wore and stood to the northward, having a very high and irregular sea. At +five o'clock next morning, the gale abated, and we bore up for the land; at +eight o'clock, the West Cape bore E. by N. 1/2 N., for which we steered, +and entered Dusky Bay about noon. In the entrance of it, we found 44 +fathoms water, a sandy bottom, the West Cape bearing S.S.E., and Five +Fingers Point, or the north point of the bay, north. Here we had a great +swell rolling in from the S.W. The depth of water decreased to 40 fathoms, +afterwards we had no ground with 60. We were, however, too far advanced to +return; and therefore stood on, not doubting but that we should find +anchorage. For in this bay we were all strangers; in my former voyage, +having done no more than discover and name it. + +After running about two leagues up the bay, and passing several of the +isles which lay in it, I brought-to, and hoisted out two boats; one of +which I sent away with an officer round a point on the larboard hand to +look for anchorage. This he found, and signified the same by signal. We +then followed with the ship, and anchored in 50 fathoms water, so near the +shore as to reach it with an hawser. This was on Friday the 26th of March, +at three in the afternoon, after having been 117 days at sea; in which time +we had sailed 3600 leagues, without having once sight of land. + +After such a long continuance at sea, in a high southern latitude, it is +but reasonable to think that many of my people must be ill of the scurvy. +The contrary, however, happened. Mention hath already been made of sweet +wort being given to such as were scorbutic. This had so far the desired +effect, that we had only one man on board that could be called very ill of +this disease; occasioned chiefly, by a bad habit of body, and a +complication of other disorders. We did not attribute the general good +state of health in the crew, wholly to the sweet wort, but to the frequent +airing and sweetening the ship by fires, &c. We must also allow portable +broth, and sour krout, to have had some share in it. This last can never be +enough recommended. + +My first care, after the ship was moored, was to send a boat and people a- +fishing; in the mean time, some of the gentlemen killed a seal, (out of +many that were upon a rock,) which made us a fresh meal. + +CHAPTER IV. + +_Transactions in Dusky Bay, with an Account of several Interviews with +the Inhabitants._ + +1773 March + +As I did not like the place we had anchored in, I sent Lieutenant +Pickersgill over to the S.E. side of the bay, to search for a better; and I +went myself to the other side, for the same purpose, where I met with an +exceedingly snug harbour, but nothing else worthy of notice. Mr Pickersgill +reported, upon his return, that he had found a good harbour, with every +conveniency. As I liked the situation of this, better than the other of my +own finding, I determined to go there in the morning. The fishing-boat was +very successful; returning with fish sufficient for all hands for supper; +and, in a few hours in the morning, caught as many as served for dinner. +This gave us certain hopes of being plentifully supplied with this article. +Nor did the shores and woods appear less destitute of wild fowl; so that we +hoped to enjoy with ease, what, in our situation, might be called the +luxuries of life. This determined me to stay some time in this bay, in +order to examine it thoroughly; as no one had ever landed before, on any of +the southern parts of this country. + +On the 27th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we got under sail with a light +breeze at S.W., and working over to Pickersgill harbour, entered it by a +channel scarcely twice the width of the ship; and in a small creek, moored +head and stern, so near the shore as to reach it with a brow or stage, +which nature had in a manner prepared for us in a large tree, whose end or +top reached our gunwale. Wood, for fuel and other purposes, was here so +convenient, that our yards were locked in the branches of the trees; and, +about 100 yards from our stern, was a fine stream of freshwater. Thus +situated, we began to clear places in the woods, in order to set up the +astronomer's observatory, the forge to repair our iron-work, tents for the +sail-makers and coopers to repair the sails and casks in; to land our empty +casks, to fill water, and to cut down wood for fuel; all of which were +absolutely necessary occupations. We also began to brew beer from the +branches or leaves of a tree, which much resembles the American black- +spruce. From the knowledge I had of this tree, and the similarity it bore +to the spruce, I judged that, with the addition of inspissated juice of +wort and molasses, it would make a very wholesome beer, and supply the want +of vegetables, which this place did not afford; and the event proved that I +was not mistaken. + +Now I have mentioned the inspissated juice of wort, it will not be amiss, +in this place, to inform the reader, that I had made several trials of it +since I left the Cape of Good Hope, and found it to answer in a cold +climate, beyond all expectation. The juice, diluted in warm water, in the +proportion of twelve parts water to one part juice, made a very good and +well-tasted small-beer. Some juice which I had of Mr Pelham's own +preparing, would bear sixteen parts water. By making use of warm-water, +(which I think ought always to be done,) and keeping it in a warm place, if +the weather be cold, no difficulty will be found in fermenting it. A little +grounds of either small or strong-beer, will answer as well as yeast. + +The few sheep and goats we had left were not likely to fare quite so well +as ourselves; there being no grass here, but what was coarse and harsh. It +was, however not so bad, but that we expected they would devour it with +great greediness, and were the more surprised to find that they would not +taste it; nor did they seem over-fond of the leaves of more tender plants. +Upon examination, we found their teeth loose; and that many of them had +every other symptom of an inveterate sea-scurvy. Out of four ewes and two +rams which I brought from the Cape, with an intent to put ashore in this +country, I had only been able to preserve one of each; and even these were +in so bad a state, that it was doubtful if they could recover, +notwithstanding all the care possible had been taken of them. + +Some of the officers, on the 28th, went up the bay in a small boat on a +shooting party; but, discovering inhabitants, they returned before noon, to +acquaint me therewith; for hitherto we had not seen the least vestige of +any. They had but just got aboard, when a canoe appeared off a point about +a mile from us, and soon after, returned behind the point out of sight, +probably owing to a shower of rain which then fell; for it was no sooner +over, than the canoe again appeared, and came within musket-shot of the +ship. There were in it seven or eight people. They remained looking at us +for some time, and then returned; all the signs of friendship we could make +did not prevail on them to come nearer. After dinner I took two boats and +went in search of them, in the cove where they were first seen, accompanied +by several of the officers and gentlemen. We found the canoe (at least +a-canoe) hauled upon the shore near to two small huts, where were several +fire-places, some fishing-nets, a few fish lying on the shore, and some in +the canoe. But we saw no people; they probably had retired into the woods. +After a short stay, and leaving in the canoe some medals, looking-glasses, +beads, &c. we embarked and rowed to the head of the cove, where we found +nothing remarkable. In turning back we put ashore at the same place as +before; but still saw no people. However, they could not be far off, as we +smelled the smoke of fire, though we did not see it. But I did not care to +search farther, or to force an interview which they seemed to avoid; well +knowing that the way to obtain this, was to leave the time and place to +themselves. It did not appear that any thing I had left had been touched; +however, I now added a hatchet, and, with the night, returned on board. + +On the 29th, were showers till the afternoon; when a party of the officers +made an excursion up the bay; and Mr Forster and his party were out +botanizing. Both parties returned in the evening without meeting with any +thing worthy of notice; and the two following days, every one was confined +to the ship on account of rainy stormy weather. + +1773 April + +In the afternoon of the 1st of April, accompanied by several of the +gentlemen, I went to see if any of the articles I had left for the Indians +were taken away. We found every thing remaining in the canoe; nor did it +appear that any body had been there since. After shooting some birds, one +of which was a duck, with a blue-grey plumage and soft bill, we, in the +evening, returned on board. + +The 2d, being a pleasant morning, Lieutenants Clerke and Edgecumbe, and the +two Mr Forsters, went in a boat up the bay to search for the productions of +nature; and myself, Lieutenant Pickersgill, and Mr Hodges, went to take a +view of the N.W. side. In our way, we touched at the seal-rock, and killed +three seals, one of which afforded us much sport. After passing several +isles, we at length came to the most northern and western arms of the bay; +the same as is formed by the land of Five Fingers Point. In the bottom of +this arm or cove, we found many ducks, wood-hens, and other wild fowl, some +of which we killed, and returned on board at ten o'clock in the evening; +where the other party had arrived several hours before us, after having had +but indifferent sport. They took with them a black dog we had got at the +Cape, who, at the first musket they fired, ran into the woods, from whence +he would not return. The three following days were rainy; so that no +excursions were made. + +Early in the morning on the 6th, a shooting party, made up of the officers, +went to Goose Cove, the place where I was the 2d; and myself, accompanied +by the two Mr Forsters, and Mr Hodges, set out to continue the survey of +the bay. My attention was directed to the north side, where I discovered a +fine capacious cove, in the bottom of which is a fresh-water river; on the +west side several beautiful small cascades; and the shores are so steep +that a ship might lie near enough to convey the water into her by a hose. +In this cove we shot fourteen ducks, besides other birds, which occasioned +my calling it Duck Cove. + +As we returned in the evening, we had a short interview with three of the +natives, one man and two women. They were the first that discovered +themselves on the N.E. point of Indian Island, named so on this occasion. +We should have passed without seeing them, had not the man hallooed to us. +He stood with his club in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind +him, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, with each of them a +spear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when we +approached the rock with our boat. He however stood firm; nor did he move +to take up some things we threw him ashore. At length I landed, went up and +embraced him; and presented him with such articles as I had about me, which +at once dissipated his fears. Presently after, we were joined by the two +women, the gentlemen that were with me, and some of the seamen. After this, +we spent about half an hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side, +in which the youngest of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This +occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tongue in any +part of the world. We presented them with fish and fowl which we had in our +boat; but these they threw into the boat again, giving us to understand +that such things they wanted not. Night approaching, obliged us to take +leave of them; when the youngest of the two women, whose volubility of +tongue exceeded every thing I ever met with, gave us a dance; but the man +viewed us with great attention. Some hours after we got on board, the other +party returned, having had but indifferent sport. + +Next morning, I made the natives another visit, accompanied by Mr Forster +and Mr Hodges, carrying with me various articles which I presented them +with, and which they received with a great deal of indifference, except +hatchets and spike-nails; these they most esteemed. This interview was at +the same place as last night; and now we saw the whole family, it consisted +of the man, his two wives (as we supposed), the young woman before +mentioned, a boy about fourteen years old, and three small children, the +youngest of which was at the breast. They were all well-looking, except one +woman, who had a large wen on her upper-lip, which made her disagreeable; +and she seemed, on that account, to be in a great measure neglected by the +man. They conducted us to their habitation, which was but a little way +within the skirts of the wood, and consisted of two mean huts made of the +bark of trees. Their canoe, which was a small double one, just large enough +to transport the whole family from place to place, lay in a small creek +near the huts. During our stay, Mr Hodges made drawings of most of them; +this occasioned them to give him the name of _Toe-toe_, which word, we +suppose signifies marking or painting. When we took leave, the chief +presented me with a piece of cloth or garment of their own manufacturing, +and some other trifles. I at first thought it was meant as a return for the +presents I had made him; but he soon undeceived me, by expressing a desire +for one of our boat cloaks. I took the hint, and ordered one to be made for +him of red baise, as soon as I got aboard; where rainy weather detained me +the following day. + +The 9th, being fair weather, we paid the natives another visit, and made +known our approach by hallooing to them; but they neither answered us, nor +met us at the shore as usual. The reason of this we soon saw; for we found +them at their habitations, all dressed and dressing, in their very best, +with their hair combed and oiled, tied up upon the crowns of their heads, +and stuck with white feathers. Some wore a fillet of feathers round their +heads; and all of them had bunches of white feathers stuck in their ears: +Thus dressed, and all standing, they received us with great courtesy. I +presented the chief with the cloak I had got made for him, with which he +seemed so well pleased, that he took his pattapattou from his girdle and +gave it me. After a short stay, we took leave; and having spent the +remainder of the day in continuing my survey of the bay, with the night +returned on board. + +Very heavy rains falling on the two following days, no work was done; but +the 12th proved clear and serene, and afforded us an opportunity to dry our +sails and linen; two things very much wanted; not having had fair weather +enough for this purpose since we put into this bay. Mr Forster and his +party also profited by the day in botanizing. + +About ten o'clock, the family of the natives paid us a visit. Seeing that +they approached the ship with great caution, I met them in a boat, which I +quitted when I got to them, and went into their canoe. Yet, after all, I +could not prevail on them to put along-side the ship, and at last was +obliged to leave them to follow their own inclination. At length they put +ashore in a little creek hard by us; and afterwards came and sat down on +the shore a-breast of the ship, near enough to speak with us. I now caused +the bagpipes and fife to play, and the drum to beat. The two first they did +not regard; but the latter caused some little attention in them; nothing +however could induce them to come on board. But they entered, with great +familiarity, into conversation (little understood) with such of the +officers and seamen as went to them, paying much greater regard to some +than to others; and these, we had reason to believe, they took for women. +To one man in particular, the young woman shewed an extraordinary fondness +until she discovered his sex, after which she would not suffer him to come +near her. Whether it was that she before took him for one of her own sex, +or that the man, in order to discover himself, had taken some liberties +with her which she thus resented, I know not. + +In the afternoon, I took Mr Hodges to a large cascade, which falls from a +high mountain on the south side of the bay, about a league above the place +where we lay. He made a drawing of it on paper, and afterwards painted it +in oil colours; which exhibits, at once, a better description of it than +any I can give. Huge heaps of stones lay at the foot of this cascade, which +had been broken off and brought by the stream from the adjacent mountains. +These stones were of different sorts; none however, according to Mr +Forster's opinion, (whom I believe to be a judge,) containing either +minerals or metals. Nevertheless, I brought away specimens of every sort, +as the whole country, that is, the rocky part of it, seemed to consist of +those stones and no other. This cascade is at the east point of a cove, +lying in S.W. two miles, which I named Cascade Cove. In it is good +anchorage and other necessaries. At the entrance, lies an island, on each +side of which is a passage; that on the east side is much the widest. A +little above the isle, and near the S.E. shore, are two rocks which are +covered at high water. It was in this cove we first saw the natives. + +When I returned aboard in the evening, I found our friends, the natives, +had taken up their quarters at about a hundred yards from our watering- +place; a very great mark of the confidence they placed in us. This evening +a shooting party of the officers went over to the north side of the bay, +having with them the small cutter to convey them from place to place. + +Next morning, accompanied by Mr Forster, I went in the pinnace to survey +the isles and rocks which lie in the mouth of the bay. I began first with +those which lie on the S.E. side of Anchor Isle. I found here a very snug +cove sheltered from all winds, which we called Luncheon Cove, because here +we dined on cray fish, on the side of a pleasant brook, shaded by the trees +from both wind and sun. After dinner we proceeded, by rowing, out to the +outermost isles, where we saw many seals, fourteen of which we killed and +brought away with us; and might have got many more, if the surf had +permitted us to land with safety on all the rocks. The next morning, I went +out again to continue the survey, accompanied by Mr Forster. I intended to +have landed again on the Seal Isles; but there ran such a high sea that I +could not come near them. With some difficulty we rowed out to sea, and +round the S.W. point of Anchor Isle. It happened very fortunately that +chance directed me to take this course, in which we found the sportsmen's +boat adrift, and laid hold of her the very moment she would have been +dashed against the rocks. I was not long at a loss to guess how she came +there, nor was I under any apprehensions for the gentlemen that had been in +her; and after refreshing ourselves with such as we had to eat and drink, +and securing the boat in a small creek, we proceeded to the place where we +supposed them to be. This we reached about seven or eight o'clock in the +evening, and found them upon a small isle in Goose Cove, where, as it was +low water, we could not come with our boat until the return of the tide. As +this did not happen till three o'clock in the morning, we landed on a naked +beach, not knowing where to find a better place, and, after some time, +having got a fire and broiled some fish, we made a hearty supper, having +for sauce a good appetite. This done, we lay down to sleep, having a stony +beach for a bed, and the canopy of heaven for a covering. At length the +tide permitted us to take off the sportsmen; and with them we embarked, and +proceeded for the place where we had left their boat, which, we soon +reached, having a fresh breeze of wind in our favour, attended with rain. +When we came to the creek which was on the N.W. side of Anchor Isle, we +found there an immense number of blue peterels, some on the wing, others in +the woods in holes in the ground, under the roots of trees and in the +crevices of rocks, where there was no getting them, and where we supposed +their young were deposited. As not one was to be seen in the day, the old +ones were probably, at that time, out at sea searching for food, which in +the evening they bring to their young. The noise they made was like the +croaking of many frogs. They were, I believe, of the broad-bill kind, +which, are not so commonly seen at sea as the others. Here, however, they +are in great numbers, and flying much about in the night, some of our +gentlemen at first took them for bats. After restoring the sportsmen to +their boat, we all proceeded for the ship, which we reached by seven +o'clock in the morning, not a little fatigued with our expedition. I now +learned that our friends the natives returned to their habitation at night; +probably foreseeing that rain was at hand; which sort of weather continued +the whole of this day. + +On the morning of the 15th, the weather having cleared up and become fair, +I set out with two boats to continue the survey of the N.W. side of the +bay, accompanied by the two Mr Forsters and several of the officers, whom I +detached in one boat to Goose Cove, where we intended to lodge the night, +while I proceeded in the other, examining the harbours and isles which lay +in my way. In the doing of this, I picked up about a score of wild fowl, +and caught fish sufficient to serve the whole party; and reaching the place +of rendezvous a little before dark, I found all the gentlemen out duck- +shooting. They however soon returned, not overloaded with game. By this +time, the cooks had done their parts, in which little art was required; and +after a hearty repast, on what the day had produced, we lay down to rest; +but took care to rise early the next morning, in order to have the other +bout among the ducks, before we left the cove. + +Accordingly, at day-light, we prepared for the attack. Those who had +reconnoitred the place before, chose their stations accordingly; whilst +myself and another remained in the boat, and rowed to the head of the cove +to start the game, which we did so effectually, that, out of some scores of +ducks, we only detained one to ourselves, sending all the rest down to +those stationed below. After this I landed at the head of the cove, and +walked across the narrow isthmus that disjoins it from the sea, or rather +from another cove which runs in from the sea about one mile, and lies open +to the north winds. It, however, had all the appearance of a good harbour +and safe anchorage. At the head is a fine sandy beach, where I found an +immense number of wood hens, and brought away ten couple of them, which +recompensed me for the trouble of crossing the isthmus, through the wet +woods, up to the middle in water. About nine o'clock we all got collected +together, when the success of everyone was known, which was by no means +answerable to our expectations. The morning, indeed, was very unfavourable +for shooting, being rainy the most of the time we were out. After breakfast +we set out on our return to the ship, which we reached by seven o'clock in +the evening, with about seven dozen of wild fowl, and two seals; the most +of them shot while I was rowing about, exploring the harbours and coves +which I found in my way; every place affording something, especially to us, +to whom nothing came amiss. + +It rained all the 17th, but the 18th bringing fair and clear weather, in +the evening our friends, the natives before-mentioned, paid us another +visit; and, the next morning, the chief and his daughter were induced to +come on board, while the others went out in the canoe fishing. Before they +came on board I shewed them our goats and sheep that were on shore, which +they viewed for a moment with a kind of stupid insensibility. After this I +conducted them to the brow; but before the chief set his foot upon it to +come into the ship, he took a small green branch in his hand, with which he +struck the ship's side several times, repeating a speech or prayer. When +this was over, he threw the branch into the main chains, and came on board. +This custom and manner of making peace, as it were, is practised by all the +nations in the South Seas that I have seen. + +I took them both down into the cabin, where we were to breakfast. They sat +at table with us, but would not taste any of our victuals. The chief wanted +to know where we slept, and indeed to pry into every corner of the cabin, +every part of which he viewed with some surprise. But it was not possible +to fix his attention to any one thing a single moment. The works of art +appeared to him in the same light as those of nature, and were as far +removed beyond his comprehension. What seemed to strike them most was the +number and strength of our decks, and other parts of the ship. The chief, +before he came aboard, presented me with a piece of cloth and a green talc +hatchet; to Mr Forster he also gave a piece or cloth; and the girl gave +another to Mr Hodges. This custom of making presents before they receive +any, is common with the natives of the South Sea isles; but I never saw it +practised in New Zealand before. Of all the various articles I gave my +guest, hatchets and spike-nails were the most valuable in his eyes. + +These he never would suffer to go out of his hands after he once laid hold +of them; whereas many other articles he would lay carelessly down any +where, and at last leave them behind him. + +As soon as I could get quit of them, they were conducted into the gun-room, +where I left them, and set out with two boats to examine the head of the +bay; myself in one, accompanied by Mr Forster and Mr Hodges, and Lieutenant +Cooper in the other. We proceeded up the south side, and without meeting +with any thing remarkable, got to the head of the bay by sun-set; where we +took up our lodging for the night, at the first place we could land upon; +for the flats hindered us from getting quite to the head. + +At day-light in the morning, I took two men in the small boat, and with Mr +Forster went to take a view of the flat land at the head of the bay, near +to where we spent the night. We landed on one side, and ordered the boat to +meet us on the other side; but had not been long on shore before we saw +some ducks, which, by their creeping through the bushes, we got a shot at, +and killed one. The moment we had fired, the natives, whom we had not +discovered before, set up a most hideous noise in two or three places close +by us. We hallooed in our turn; and, at the same time, retired to our boat, +which was full half a mile off. The natives kept up their clamouring noise, +but did not follow us. Indeed we found afterwards that they could not, +because of a branch of the river between us and them, nor did we find their +numbers answerable to the noise they made. As soon as we got to our boat, +and found that there was a river that would admit us, I rowed in, and was +soon after joined by Mr Cooper in the other boat. With this reinforcement I +proceeded up the river, shooting wild ducks, of which there were great +numbers; as we went along, now and then hearing the natives in the woods. +At length two appeared on the banks of the river, a man and a woman; and +the latter kept waving something white in her hand, as a sign of +friendship. Mr Cooper being near them, I called to him to land, as I wanted +to take the advantage of the tide to get as high up as possible, which did +not much exceed half a mile, when I was stopped by the strength of the +stream and great stones which lay in the bed of the river. + +On my return, I found that as Mr Cooper did not land when the natives +expected him, they had retired into the woods, but two others now appeared +on the opposite bank. I endeavoured to have an interview with them, but +this I could not effect. For as I approached the shore, they always retired +farther into the woods, which were so thick as to cover them from our +sight. The falling tide obliged me to retire out of the river to the place +where we had spent the night. There we breakfasted, and afterwards +embarked, in order to return on board; but, just as we were going, we saw +two men on the opposite shore, hallooing to us, which induced me to row +over to them. I landed with two others, unarmed; the two natives standing +about 100 yards from the water-side, with each a spear in his hand. When we +three advanced, they retired; but stood when I advanced alone. + +It was some little time before I could prevail upon them to lay down their +spears. This, at last, one of them did; and met me with a grass plant in +his hand, one end of which he gave me to hold, while he held the other. +Standing in this manner, he began a speech, not one word of which I +understood, and made some long pauses, waiting, as I thought, for me to +answer; for, when I spoke, he proceeded. As soon as this ceremony was over, +which was not long, we saluted each other. He then took his hahou, or coat, +from off his own back, and put it upon mine; after which peace seemed +firmly established. More people joining us did not in the least alarm them; +on the contrary, they saluted every one as he came up. + +I gave to each a hatchet and a knife, having nothing else with me: Perhaps +these were the most valuable things I could give them, at least they were +the most useful. They wanted us to go to their habitation, telling us they +would give us something to eat; and I was sorry that the tide and other +circumstances would not permit me to accept of their invitation. More +people were seen in the skirts of the wood, but none of them joined us: +Probably these were their wives and children. When we took leave they +followed us to our boat; and, seeing the musquets lying across the stern, +they made signs for them to be taken away, which being done, they came +alongside, and assisted us to launch her. At this time it was necessary for +us to look well after them, for they wanted to take away every thing they +could lay their hands upon, except the muskets. These they took care not to +touch, being taught, by the slaughter they had seen us make among the wild- +fowl, to look upon them as instruments of death. + +We saw no canoes or other boats with them, two or three logs of wood tied +together served the same purpose, and were indeed sufficient for the +navigation of the river, on the banks of which they lived. There fish and +fowl were in such plenty, that they had no occasion to go far for food; and +they have but few neighbours to disturb them. The whole number at this +place, I believe, does not exceed three families. + +It was noon when we took leave of these two men, and proceeded down the +north side of the bay, which I explored in my way, and the isles that lie +in the middle. Night, however, overtook us, and obliged me to leave one arm +unlooked into, and hasten to the ship, which we reached by eight o'clock. I +then learnt that the man and his daughter stayed on board the day before +till noon; and that having understood from our people what things were left +in Cascade Cove, the place where they were first seen, he sent and took +them away. He and his family remained near us till today, when they all +went away, and we saw them no more; which was the more extraordinary, as he +never left us empty-handed. From one or another he did not get less than +nine or ten hatchets, three or four times that number of large spike-nails, +besides many other articles. So far as these things may be counted riches +in New Zealand, he exceeds every man there; being, at this time, possessed +of more hatchets and axes than are in the whole country besides. + +In the afternoon of the 21st, I went with a party out to the isles on seal- +hunting. The surf ran so high that we could only land in one place, where +we killed ten. These animals served us for three purposes; the skins we +made use of for our rigging; the fat gave oil for our lamps; and the flesh +we eat. Their haslets are equal to that of a hog, and the flesh of some of +them eats little inferior to beef-steaks. The following day nothing worthy +of notice was done. + +In the morning of the 23d, Mr Pickersgill, Mr Gilbert, and two others, went +to the Cascade Cove, in order to ascend one of the mountains, the summit of +which they reached by two o'clock in the afternoon, as we could see by the +fire they made. In the evening they returned on board, and reported that +inland, nothing was to be seen but barren mountains, with huge craggy +precipices, disjoined by valleys, or rather chasms, frightful to behold. On +the southeast side of Cape West, four miles out at sea, they discovered a +ridge of rocks, on which the waves broke very high. I believe these rocks +to be the same we saw the evening we first fell in with the land. + +Having five geese left out of those we brought from the Cape of Good Hope, +I went with them next morning to Goose Cove (named so on this account,) +where I left them. I chose this place for two reasons; first, here are no +inhabitants to disturb them; and, secondly, here being the most food, I +make no doubt but that they will breed, and may in time spread over the +whole country, and fully answer my intention in leaving them. We spent the +day shooting in and about the cove, and returned aboard about ten o'clock +in the evening. One of the party shot a white hern, which agreed exactly +with Mr Pennant's description, in his British Zoology, of the white herns +that either now are, or were formerly, in England. + +The 20th was the eighth fair day we had had successively; a circumstance, I +believe, very uncommon in this place, especially at this season of the +year. This fair weather gave us an opportunity to complete our wood and +water, to overhaul the rigging, caulk the ship, and put her in a condition +for sea. Fair weather was, however, now at an end; for it began to rain +this evening, and continued without intermission till noon the next day, +when we cast off the shore fasts, hove the ship out of the creek to her +anchor, and steadied her with an hawser to the shore. + +On the 27th, hazy weather, with showers of rain. In the morning I set out, +accompanied by Mr Pickersgill and the two Mr Forsters, to explore the arm +or inlet I discovered the day I returned from the head of the bay. After +rowing about two leagues up it, or rather down, I found it to communicate +with the sea, and to afford a better outlet for ships bound to the north +than the one I came in by. After making this discovery, and refreshing +ourselves on broiled fish and wild fowl, we set out for the ship, and got +on board at eleven o'clock at night, leaving two arms we had discovered, +and which ran into the east, unexplored. In this expedition we shot forty- +four birds, sea-pies, ducks, &c., without going one foot out of our way, or +causing any other delay than picking them up. + +Having got the tents, and every other article on board on the 28th, we only +now waited for a wind to carry us out of the harbour, and through New +Passage, the way I proposed to go to sea. Every thing being removed from +the shore, I set fire to the top-wood, &c., in order to dry a piece of the +ground we had occupied, which, next morning, I dug up, and sowed with +several sorts of garden seeds. The soil was such as did not promise success +to the planter; it was, however, the best we could find. At two o clock in +the afternoon, we weighed with a light breeze at S.W., and stood up the bay +for the New Passage. Soon after we had got through, between the east end of +Indian Island and the west end of Long Island, it fell calm, which obliged +us to anchor in forty-three fathom water, under the north side of the +latter island. + +In the morning of the 30th we weighed again with a light breeze at west, +which, together with all our boats a-head towing, was hardly sufficient to +stem the current. For, after struggling till six o'clock in the evening, +and not getting more than five miles from our last anchoring-place, we +anchored under the north side of Long Island, not more than one hundred +yards from the shore, to which we fastened a hawser. + +1773 May + +At day-light next morning, May 1st, we got again under sail, and attempted +to work to windward, having a light breeze down the bay. At first we gained +ground, but at last the breeze died away; when we soon lost more than we +had got, and were obliged to bear up for a cove on the north side of Long +Island, where we anchored in nineteen fathom water, a muddy bottom: In this +cove we found two huts not long since inhabited; and near them two very +large fire-places or ovens, such as they have in the Society Isles. In this +cove we were detained by calms, attended with continual rain, till the 4th +in the afternoon, when, with the assistance of a small breeze at south- +west, we got the length of the reach or passage leading to sea. The breeze +then left us, and we anchored under the east point, before a sandy beach, +in thirty fathoms water; but this anchoring-place hath nothing to recommend +it like the one we came from, which hath every thing in its favour. + +In the night we had some very heavy squalls of wind, attended with rain, +hail, and snow, and some thunder. Daylight exhibited to our view all the +hills and mountains covered with snow. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a +light breeze sprung up at S.S.W., which, with the help of our boats, +carried us down the passage to our intended anchor-place, where, at eight +o'clock, we anchored in sixteen fathoms water, and moored with a hawser to +the shore, under the first point on the starboard side as you come in from +sea, from which we were covered by the point. + +In the morning of the 6th, I sent Lieutenant Pickersgill, accompanied by +the two Mr Forsters, to explore the second arm which turns in to the east, +myself being confined on board by a cold. At the same time I had every +thing got up from between decks, the decks well cleaned and well aired with +fires; a thing that ought never to be long neglected in wet moist weather. +The fair weather, which had continued all this day, was succeeded in the +night by a storm from north-west, which blew in hard squalls, attended with +rain, and obliged us to strike top-gallant and lower yards, and to carry +out another hawser to the shore. The bad weather continued the whole day +and the succeeding night, after which it fell calm with fair weather. + +At seven in the morning, on the 8th, Mr Pickersgill returned, together with +his companions, in no very good plight, having been at the head of the arm +he was sent to explore, which he judged to extend in to the eastward about +eight miles. In it is a good anchoring-place, wood, fresh water, wild fowl, +and fish. At nine o'clock I set out to explore the other inlet, or the one +next the sea; and ordered Mr Gilbert, the master, to go and examine the +passage out to sea, while those on board were getting every thing in +readiness to depart. I proceeded up the inlet till five o'clock in the +afternoon, when bad weather obliged me to return before I had seen the end +of it. As this inlet lay nearly parallel with the sea-coast, I was of +opinion that it might communicate with Doubtful Harbour, or some other +inlet to the northward. Appearances were, however, against this opinion, +and the bad weather hindered me from determining the point, although a few +hours would have done it. I was about ten miles up, and thought I saw the +end of it: I found on the north side three coves, in which, as also on the +south side, between the main and the isles that lie four miles up the +inlet, is good anchorage, wood, water, and what else can be expected, such +as fish and wild fowl: Of the latter, we killed in this excursion, three +dozen. After a very hard row, against both wind and rain, we got on board +about nine o'clock at night, without a dry thread on our backs. + +This bad weather continued no longer than till the next morning, when it +became fair, and the sky cleared up. But, as we had not wind to carry us to +sea, we made up two shooting parties; myself, accompanied by the two +Mr. Forsters and some others, went to the area I was in the day before; +and the other party to the coves and isles Mr Gilbert had discovered when +he was out, and where he found many wild fowl. We had a pleasant day, and +the evening brought us all on board; myself and party met with good sport; +but the other party found little. + +All the forenoon of the 10th, we had strong gales from the west, attended +with heavy showers of rain, and blowing in such flurries over high land, as +made it unsafe for us to get under sail. The afternoon was more moderate, +and became fair; when myself, Mr Cooper, and some others, went out in the +boats to the rocks, which lie at this entrance of the bay, to kill seals. +The weather was rather unfavourable for this sport, and the sea ran high, +so as to make landing difficult; we, however, killed ten, but could only +wait to bring away five, with which we returned on board. + +In the morning of the 11th, while we were getting under sail, I sent a boat +for the other five seals. At nine o'clock we weighed with a light breeze at +south-east, and stood out to sea, taking up the boat in our way. It was +noon before we got clear of the land; at which time we observed in 45 deg. 34' +30" S.; the entrance of the bay bore S.E. by E., and Break-sea Isles (the +outermost isles that lie at the south point of the entrance of the bay,) +bore S.S.E., distant three miles; the southernmost point, or that of Five +Fingers Point, bore south 42 deg. W., and the northernmost land N.N.E. In this +situation we had a prodigious swell from S.W., which broke with great +violence on all the shores that were exposed to it. + +CHAPTER V. + +_Directions for sailing in and out of Dusky Bay, with an Account of the +adjacent Country, its Produce, and Inhabitants: Astronomical and Nautical +Observations._ + +1773 May + +As there are few places where I have been in New Zealand that afford the +necessary refreshments in such plenty as Dusky Bay, a short description of +it, and of the adjacent country, may prove of use to some future +navigators, as well as acceptable to the curious reader. For although this +country be far remote from the present trading part of the world, we can, +by no means, tell what use future ages may make of the discoveries made in +the present. The reader of this journal must already know that there are +two entrances to this bay. The south entrance is situated on the north side +of Cape West, in latitude 45 deg. 48' S. It is formed by the land of the Cape +to the south, and Five Fingers Point to the north. This point is made +remarkable by several pointed rocks lying off it, which, when viewed from +certain situations, have some resemblance to the five fingers of a man's +hand; from whence it takes its name. The land of this point is still more +remarkable by the little similarity it bears to any other of the lands +adjacent; being a narrow peninsula lying north and south, of a moderate and +equal height, and all covered with wood. + +To sail into the bay by this entrance is by no means difficult, as I know +of no danger but what shews itself. The worst that attends it, is the depth +of water, which is too great to admit of anchorage, except in the coves and +harbours, and very near the shores; and even, in many places, this last +cannot be done. The anchoring-places are, however, numerous enough, and +equally safe and commodious. Pickersgill Harbour, where we lay, is not +inferior to any other bay, for two or three ships: It is situated on the +south shore abreast of the west end of Indian island; which island may be +known from the others by its greater proximity to that shore. There is a +passage into the harbour on both sides of the isle, which lies before it. +The most room is on the upper or east side, having regard to a sunken rock, +near the main, abreast this end of the isle: Keep the isle close aboard, +and you will not only avoid the rock, but keep in anchoring-ground. The +next place, on this side, is Cascade Cove, where there is room for a fleet +of ships, and also a passage in on either side of the isle, which lies in +the entrance, taking care to avoid a sunken rock which lies near the south- +east shore, a little above the isle. This rock, as well as the one in +Pickersgill Harbour, may be seen at half-ebb It must be needless to +enumerate all the anchoring-places in this capacious bay. + +The north entrance lies in the latitude of 45 deg. 38' S., and five leagues to +the north of Five Fingers Point. To make this entrance plain, it will be +necessary to approach the shore within a few miles, as all the land within +and on each side is of considerable height. Its situation may, however, be +known at a greater distance, as it lies under the first craggy mountains +which rise to the north of the land of Five Fingers Point. The southernmost +of these mountains is remarkable, having at its summit two small hillocks. +When this mountain bears S.S.E. you will be before the entrance, on the +south side of which are several isles. The westernmost and outermost is the +most considerable, both for height and circuit, and this I have called +Break sea Isle, because it effectually covers this entrance from the +violence of the southwest swell, which the other entrance is so much +exposed to. In sailing in you leave this isle as well as all the others to +the south. The best anchorage is in the first or north arm, which is on the +larboard hand going in, either in one of the coves, or behind the isles +that lie under the south-east shore. + +The country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, but +through all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poenammoo. A +prospect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with, for inland appears +nothing but the summits of mountains of a stupendous height, and consisting +of rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are covered +with snow. But the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all the islands, +are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The trees +are of various kinds, such as are common to other parts of this country, +and are fit for the shipwright, house-carpenter, cabinet-maker, and many +other uses. Except in the river Thames, I have not seen finer timber in all +New Zealand; both here and in that river, the most considerable for size is +the Spruce-tree, as we called it, from the similarity of its foliage to the +American spruce, though the wood is more ponderous, and bears a greater +resemblance to the pitch-pine. Many of these trees are from six to eight +and ten feet in girt, and from sixty to eighty or one hundred feet in +length, large enough to make a main-mast for a fifty-gun ship. + +Here are, as well as in all other parts of New Zealand, a great number of +aromatic trees and shrubs, most of the myrtle kind; but amidst all this +variety, we met with none which bore fruit fit to eat. + +In many parts the woods are so over-run with supplejacks, that it is +scarcely possible to force one's way amongst them. I have seen several +which were fifty or sixty fathoms long. + +The soil is a deep black mould, evidently composed of decayed vegetables, +and so loose that it sinks under you at every step; and this may be the +reason why we meet with so many large trees as we do, blown down by the +wind, even in the thickest part of the woods. All the ground amongst the +trees is covered with moss and fern, of both which there is a great +variety; but except the flax or hemp plant, and a few other plants, there +is very little herbage of any sort, and none that was eatable, that we +found, except about a handful of water-cresses, and about the same quantity +of cellery. What Dusky Bay most abounds with is fish: A boat with six or +eight men, with hooks and lines, caught daily sufficient to serve the whole +ship's company. Of this article the variety is almost equal to the plenty, +and of such kinds as are common to the more northern coast; but some are +superior, and in particular the cole fish, as we called it, which is both +larger and finer flavoured than any I had seen before, and was, in the +opinion of most on board, the highest luxury the sea afforded us. The +shell-fish are, muscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many other +sorts, all such as are to be found in every other part of the coast. The +only amphibious animals are seals: These are to be found in great numbers +about this bay on the small rocks and isles near the sea coast. + +We found here five different kinds of ducks, some of which I do not +recollect to have any where seen before. The largest are as big as a +Muscovy duck, with a very beautiful variegated plumage, on which account we +called it the Painted Duck; both male and female have a large white spot on +each wing; the head and neck of the latter is white, but all the other +feathers as well as those on the head and neck of the drake are of a dark +variegated colour. The second sort have a brown plumage, with bright green +feathers in their wings, and are about the size of an English tame duck. +The third sort is the blue-grey duck, before mentioned, or the whistling +duck, as some called them, from the whistling noise they made. What is most +remarkable in these is, that the end of their beaks is soft, and of a +skinny, or more properly, cartilaginous substance. The fourth sort is +something bigger than a teal, and all black except the drake, which has +some white feathers in his wing. There are but few of this sort, and we saw +them no where but in the river at the head of the bay. The last sort is a +good deal like a teal, and very common, I am told, in England. The other +fowls, whether belonging to the sea and land, are the same that are to be +found in common in other parts of this country, except the blue peterel +before-mentioned, and the water or wood-hens. These last, although they +are numerous enough here, are so scarce in other parts, that I never saw +but one. The reason may be, that, as they cannot fly, they inhabit the +skirts of the woods, and feed on the sea-beach, and are so very tame or +foolish, as to stand and stare at us till we knocked them down with a +stick. The natives may have, in a manner, wholly destroyed them. They are a +sort of rail, about the size and a good deal like a common dunghill hen; +most of them are of a dirty black or dark-brown colour, and eat very well +in a pye or fricassee. Among the small birds I must not omit to +particularize the wattle-bird, poy-bird, and fan-tail, on account of their +singularity, especially as I find they are not mentioned in the narrative +of my former voyage. + +The wattle-bird, so called, because it has two wattles under its beak as +large as those of a small dunghill-cock, is larger, particularly in length, +than an English black-bird. Its bill is short and thick, and its feathers +of a dark lead colour; the colour of its wattles is a dull yellow, almost +an orange colour. + +The poy-bird is less than the wattle-bird. The feathers of a fine mazarine +blue, except those of its neck, which are of a most beautiful silver-grey, +and two or three short white ones, which are on the pinion joint of the +wing. Under its throat hang two little tufts of curled, snow-white +leathers, called its _poies_, which being the Otaheitean word for +earrings, occasioned our giving that name to the bird, which is not more +remarkable for the beauty of its plumage than for the sweetness of its +note. The flesh is also most delicious, and was the greatest luxury the +woods afforded us. + +Of the fan-tail there are different sorts; but the body of the most +remarkable one is scarcely larger than a good filbert, yet it spreads a +tail of most beautiful plumage, full three quarters of a semi-circle, of at +least four or five inches radius. + +For three or four days after we arrived in Pickersgill harbour, and as we +were clearing the woods to set up our tents, &c. a four-footed animal was +seen by three or four of our people; but as no two gave the same +description of it, I cannot say of what kind it is. All, however, agreed, +that it was about the size of a cat, with short legs, and of a mouse +colour. One of the seamen, and he who had the best view of it, said it had +a bushy tail, and was the most like a jackall of any animal he knew. The +most probable conjecture is, that it is of a new species. Be this as it +may, we are now certain that this country is not so destitute of quadrupeds +as was once thought. + +The most mischievous animals here are the small black sand flies, which are +very numerous, and so troublesome, that they exceed every thing of the kind +I ever met with. Wherever they bite they cause a swelling, and such an +intolerable itching, that it is not possible to refrain from scratching, +which at last brings on ulcers like the small-pox. + +The almost continual rains may be reckoned another evil attending this bay; +though perhaps this may only happen at this season of the year. +Nevertheless, the situation of the country, the vast height, and nearness +of the mountains, seem to subject it to much rain at all times. Our people, +who were daily exposed to the rain, felt no ill effects from it; on the +contrary, such as were sick and ailing when we came in, recovered daily, +and the whole crew soon became strong and vigorous, which can only be +attributed to the healthiness of the place, and the fresh provisions it +afforded. The beer certainly contributed not a little. As I have already +observed, we at first made it of a decoction of the spruce leaves; but +finding that this alone made the beer too astringent, we afterwards mixed +with it an equal quantity of the tea plant (a name it obtained in my former +voyage, from our using it as tea then as we also did now,) which partly +destroyed the astringency of the other, and made the beer exceedingly +palatable, and esteemed by every one on board. We brewed it in the same +manner as spruce-beer, and the process is as follows: First, make a strong +decoction of the small branches of the spruce and tea plants, by boiling +them three or four hours, or until the bark will strip with ease from off +the branches; then take them out of the copper, and put in the proper +quantity of molasses, ten gallons of which is sufficient to make a ton, or +two hundred and forty gallons of beer; let this mixture just boil, then pot +it into the casks, and to it add an equal quantity of cold water, more or +less, according to the strength of the decoction, or your taste: When the +whole is milk-warm, put in a little grounds of beer, or yeast, if you have +it, or any thing else that will cause fermentation, and in a few days the +beer will be fit to drink. After the casks have been brewed in two or three +times the beer will generally ferment itself, especially if the weather is +warm. As I had inspissated juice of wort on board, and could not apply it +to a better purpose, we used it together with molasses or sugar, to make +these two articles go farther. For of the former I had but one cask, and of +the latter little to spare for this brewing. Had I known how well this beer +would have succeeded, and the great use it was of to the people, I should +have come better provided. Indeed I was partly discouraged by an experiment +made during my former voyage, which did not succeed then, owing, as I now +believe, to some mismanagement. + +Any one, who is in the least acquainted with spruce pines, will find the +tree which I have distinguished by that name. There are three sorts of it; +that which has the smallest leaves and deepest colour, is the sort we +brewed with; but doubtless all three might safely serve that purpose. The +tea-plant is a small tree or shrub, with five white petals, or flower- +leaves, shaped like those of a rose, having smaller ones of the same figure +in the intermediate spaces, and twenty or more filaments or threads. The +tree sometimes grows to a moderate height, and is generally bare on the +lower part, with a number of small branches growing close together towards +the top. The leaves are small and pointed, like those of the myrtle; it +bears a dry roundish seed-case, and grows commonly in dry places near the +shores. The leaves, as I have already observed, were used by many of us as +tea, which has a very agreeable bitter and flavour when they are recent, +but loses some of both when they are dried. When the infusion was made +strong, it proved emetic to some in the same manner as green tea. + +The inhabitants of this bay are of the same race of people with those in +the other parts of this country, speak the same language, and observe +nearly the same customs. These indeed seem to have a custom of making +presents before they receive any, in which they come nearer to the +Otaheiteans than the rest of their countrymen. What could induce three or +four families (for I believe there are not more) to separate themselves so +far from the society of the rest of their fellow-creatures, is not easy to +guess. By our meeting with inhabitants in this place, it seems probable +that there are people scattered over all this southern island. But the many +vestiges of them in different parts of this bay, compared with the number +that we actually saw, indicates that they live a wandering life; and, if +one may judge from appearances and circumstances, few as they are, they +live not in perfect amity, one family with another. For, if they did, why +do they not form themselves into some society? a thing not only natural to +man, but observed even by the brute creation. + +I shall conclude this account of Dusky Bay with some observations made and +communicated to me by Mr Wales. He found by a great variety of +observations, that the latitude of his observatory at Pickersgill Harbour, +was 45 deg. 47' 26" half south; and, by the mean of several distances of the +moon from the sun, that its longitude was 106 deg. 18' E., which is about half +a degree less than it is laid down in my chart constructed in my former +voyage. He found the variation of the needle or compass, by the mean of +three different needles, to be 13 deg. 49' E, and the dip of the south end 70 deg. +5' three quarters. The times of high water, on the full and change days, he +found to be at 10 deg. 57', and the tide to rise and fall, at the former eight +feet, at the latter five feet eight inches. This difference, in the rise of +the tides between the new and full moon, is a little extraordinary, and was +probably occasioned at this time by some accidental cause, such as winds, +&c., but, be it as it will, I am well assured there was no error in the +observations. + +Supposing the longitude of the observatory to be as above, the error of Mr +Kendal's watch, in longitude, will be 1 deg. 48' minus, and that of Mr Arnold's +39 deg. 25'. The former was found to be gaining 6",461 a-day on mean time, and +the latter losing 99",361. Agreeably to these rates the longitude by them +was to be determined, until an opportunity of trying them again. + +I must observe, that in finding the longitude by Mr Kendal's watch, we +suppose it to have gone mean time from the Cape of Good Hope. Had its cape +rate been allowed, the error would not have been so great. + +CHAPTER VI. + +_Passage from Dusky Bay to Queen Charlottes Sound, with an Account of +some Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure._ + +1773 May + +After leaving Dusky Bay, as hath been already mentioned, I directed my +course along shore for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I expected to find +the Adventure. In this passage we met with nothing remarkable, or worthy of +notice, till the 17th at four o'clock in the afternoon. Being then about +three leagues to the westward of Cape Stephens; having a gentle gale at +west by south, and clear weather, the wind at once flattened to a calm, the +sky became suddenly obscured by dark dense clouds, and seemed to forebode +much wind. This occasioned as to clew up all our sails, and presently after +six water-spouts were seen. Four rose and spent themselves between us and +the land; that is, to the south-west of us, the fifth was without us, the +sixth first appeared in the south-west, at the distance of two or three +miles at least from us. Its progressive motion was to the north-east, not +in a straight but in a crooked line, and passed within fifty yards of our +stern, without our feeling any of its effects. The diameter of the base of +this spout I judged to be about fifty or sixty feet; that is, the sea +within this space was much agitated, and foamed up to a great height. From +this a tube, or round body, was formed, by which the water or air, or both, +was carried in a spiral stream up to the clouds. Some of our people said +they saw a bird in the one near us, which was whirled round like the fly of +a jack, as it was carried upwards. During the time these spouts lasted, we +had now and then light puffs of wind from all points of the compass, with +some few slight showers of rain, which generally fell in large drops; and +the weather continued thick and hazy for some hours after, with variable +light breezes of wind. At length the wind fixed in its old point, and the +sky resumed its former serenity. Some of these spouts appeared at times to +be stationary; and at other times to have a quick but very unequal +progressive motion, and always in a crooked line, sometimes one way and +sometimes another; so that, once or twice, we observed them to cross one +another. From the ascending motion of the bird, and several other +circumstances, it was very plain to us that these spouts were caused by +whirlwinds, and that the water in them was violently hurried upwards, and +did not descend from the clouds as I have heard some assert. The first +appearance of them is by the violent agitation and rising up of the water; +and, presently after, you see a round column or tube forming from the +clouds above, which apparently descends till it joins the agitated water +below. I say apparently, because I believe it not to be so in reality, but +that the tube is already formed from the agitated water below, and ascends, +though at first it is either too small or too thin to be seen. When the +tube is formed, or becomes visible, its apparent diameter increaseth till +it is pretty large; after that it decreaseth, and at last it breaks or +becomes invisible towards the lower part. Soon after the sea below resumes +its natural state, and the tube is drawn, by little and little, up to the +clouds, where it is dissipated. The same tube would sometimes have a +vertical, and sometimes a crooked or inclined direction. The most rational +account I have read of water-spouts, is in Mr Falconer's Marine Dictionary, +which is chiefly collected from the philosophical writings of the ingenious +Dr Franklin. I have been told that the firing of a gun will dissipate them; +and I am very sorry I did not try the experiment, as we were near enough, +and had a gun ready for the purpose; but as soon as the danger was past, I +thought no more about it, being too attentive in viewing these +extraordinary meteors At the time this happened, the barometer stood at 29, +75, and the thermometer at 56. + +In coming from Cape Farewell to Cape Stephens, I had a better view of the +coast than I had when I passed in my former voyage, and observed that about +six leagues to the east of the first-mentioned cape, is a spacious bay, +which is covered from the sea by a low point of land. This is, I believe, +the same that Captain Tasman anchored in on the 18th of December, 1642, and +by him called Murderer's Bay, by reason of some of his men being killed by +the natives. Blind Bay, so named by me in my former voyage, lies to the +S.E. of this, and seems to run a long way inland to the south; the sight, +in this direction, not being bounded by any land. The wind having returned +to the west, as already mentioned, we resumed our course to the east; and +at day-light the next morning (being the 18th,) we appeared off Queen +Charlotte's Sound, where we discovered our consort the Adventure, by the +signals she made to us; an event which every one felt with an agreeable +satisfaction. The fresh westerly wind now died away, and was succeeded by +light airs from the S. and S.W., so that we had to work in with our boats +a-head towing. In the doing of this we discovered a rock, which we did not +see in my former voyage. It lies in the direction of S. by E. 1/2 E., +distant four miles from the outermost of the Two Brothers, and in a line +with the White Rocks, on with the middle of Long Island. It is just even +with the surface of the sea, and hath deep water all round it. At noon, +Lieutenant Kemp of the Adventure came on board; from whom I learnt that +their ship had been here about six weeks. With the assistance of a light +breeze, our boats, and the tides, we at six o'clock in the evening, got to +an anchor in Ship Cove, near the Adventure, when Captain Furneaux came on +board, and gave me the following account of his proceedings, from the time +we parted to my arrival here. + +CHAPTER VII. + +_Captain Furneaux's Narrative, from the Time the two Ships were +separated, to their joining again in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some +Account of Van Diemen's Land._ + +1773 February + +On the 7th of February, 1773, in the morning, the Resolution being then +about two miles a-head, the wind shifting then to the westward, brought on +a very thick fog; so that we lost sight of her. We soon after heard a gun, +the report of which we imagined to be on the larboard beam; we then hauled +up S.E., and kept firing a four-pounder every half hour, but had no answer, +nor further sight of her; then we kept the course we steered on before the +fog came on. In the evening it began to blow hard, and was at intervals +more clear, but could see nothing of her, which gave us much uneasiness. We +then tacked and stood to the westward, to cruise in the place where we last +saw her, according to agreement, in case of separation; but next day came +on a very heavy gale of wind and thick weather, that obliged us to bring +to, and thereby prevented us reaching the intended spot. However, the wind +coming more moderate, and the fog in some measure clearing away, we cruised +as near the place as we could get, for three days; when giving over all +hopes of joining company again, we bore away for winter quarters, distant +fourteen hundred leagues, through a sea entirely unknown and reduced the +allowance of water to one quart per day. + +We kept between the latitude of 52 deg. and 53 deg. S., had much westerly wind, +hard gales, with squalls, snow and sleet, with a long hollow sea from the +S.W., so that we judged there is no land in that quarter. After we reached +the longitude of 95 deg. E., we found the variation decrease very fast. + +On the 26th, at night, we saw a meteor of uncommon brightness in the N.N.W. +It directed its course to the S.W., with a very great light in the southern +sky, such as is known to the northward by the name of Aurora Borealis, or +Northern Lights. We saw the light for several nights running; and, what is +remarkable, we saw but one ice island after we parted company with the +Resolution, till our making land, though we were most of the time two or +three degrees to the southward of the latitude we first saw it in. We were +daily attended by great numbers of sea birds, and frequently saw porpoises +curiously spotted white and black. + +1773 March + +On the 1st of March we were alarmed with the cry of land by the man at the +mast-head, on the larboard beam; which gave us great joy. We immediately +hauled our wind and stood for it, but to our mortification were +disappointed in a few hours; for, what we took to be land, proved no more +than clouds, which disappeared as we sailed towards them. We then bore +away, and directed our course towards the land laid down in the charts by +the name of Van Diemen's Land, discovered by Tasman in 1642, and laid down +in the latitude 44 deg. S., and longitude 140 deg. E., and supposed to join to New +Holland. + +On the 9th of March, having little wind and pleasant weather, about nine a. +m. being then in the latitude of 43 deg. 37' S. longitude, by lunar +observation, 145 deg. 36' E., and by account 143 deg. 10' E. from Greenwich, we saw +the land bearing N.N.E., about eight or nine leagues distance. It appeared +moderately high, and uneven near the sea; the hills farther back formed a +double land, and much higher. There seemed to be several islands, or broken +land, to the N.W., as the shore trenched; but by reason of clouds that hung +over them, we could not be certain whether they did not join to the main. +We hauled immediately up for it, and by noon were within three or four +leagues of it. A point much like the Ramhead off Plymouth, which I take to +be the same that Tasman calls South Cape, bore north four leagues off us. +The land from this cape runs directly to the eastward; about four leagues +along shore are three islands about two miles long, and several rocks, +resembling the Mewstone, (particularly one which we so named,) about four +or five leagues E.S.E 1/2 E. off the above cape, which Tasman has not +mentioned, or laid down in his draughts. After you pass these islands, the +land lies E. by N., and W. by S., by the compass nearly. It is a bold +shore, and seems to afford several bays or anchoring-places, but believe +deep water. From the S.W. cape, which is in the latitude of 43 deg. 39' S., and +longitude 145 deg. 50' E. to the S.E. cape, in the latitude 43 deg. 36' S., +longitude 147 deg. E., is nearly sixteen leagues, and sounding from forty-eight +to seventy fathoms, sand and broken shells three or four leagues off shore. +Here the country is hilly and full of trees, the shore rocky and difficult +landing, occasioned by the wind blowing here continually from the westward, +which occasions such a surf that the sand cannot lie on the shore. We saw +no inhabitants here. + +The morning, on the 10th of March, being calm, the ship then about four +miles from the land, sent the great cutter on shore with the second +lieutenant, to find if there was any harbour or good bay. Soon after, it +beginning to blow very hard, made the signal for the boat to return several +times, but they did not see or hear any thing of it; the ship then three or +four leagues off, that we could not see any thing of the boat, which gave +us great uneasiness, as there was a very great sea. At half-past one p.m. +to our great satisfaction, the boat returned on board safe. They landed, +but with much difficulty, and saw several places where the Indians had +been, and one they lately had left, where they had a fire, with a great +number of pearl escallop shells round it, which shells they brought on +board, with, some burnt sticks and green boughs. There was a path from this +place, through the woods, which in all probability leads to their +habitations; but, by reason of the weather, had not time to pursue it. The +soil seems to be very rich; the country well clothed with wood, +particularly on the lee side of the hills; plenty of water which falls from +the rocks in beautiful cascades, for two or three hundred feet +perpendicular into the sea; but they did not see the least sign of any +place to anchor in with safety. Hoisted in the boat, and made sail for +Frederick Henry Bay. From noon to three p.m. running along shore E. by N., +at which time we were abreast of the westernmost point of a very deep bay, +called by Tasman, Stormy Bay. From the west to the east point of this bay +there are several small islands, and black rocks, which we called the +Friars. While crossing this bay we had very heavy squalls and thick +weather; at times, when it cleared up, I saw several fires in the bottom of +the bay, which is near two or three leagues deep, and has, I doubt not, +good places for anchoring, but the weather being so bad, did not think it +safe to stand into it. From the Friars the land trenches away about N. by +E. four leagues: We had smooth water, and kept in shore, having regular +soundings from twenty to fifteen fathoms water. At half-past six we hauled +round a high bluff point, the rocks whereof were like so many fluted +pillars, and had ten fathoms water, fine sand, within half a mile of the +shore. At seven, being abreast of a fine bay, and having little wind, we +came-to, with the small bower, in twenty-four fathoms, sandy bottom. Just +after we anchored, being a fine clear evening, had a good observation of +the star Antares and the moon, which gave the longitude of 147 deg. 34' E., +being in the latitude of 43 deg. 20' S. We first took this bay to be that +which Tasman called Frederick Henry Bay; but afterwards found that his is +laid down five leagues to the northward of this. + +At day-break the next morning, I sent the master in shore to sound the bay, +and to find out a watering-place; at eight he returned, having found a most +excellent harbour, clear ground from side to side, from eighteen to five +fathom water all over the bay, gradually decreasing as you go in shore. We +weighed and turned up into the bay; the wind being westerly, and very +little of it, which baffled us much in getting in. At seven o'clock in the +evening, we anchored in seven fathoms water, with a small bower, and moored +with the coasting anchor to the westward, the north point of the bay N.N.E. +1/2 E. (which we take to be Tasman's Head), and the easternmost point +(which we named Penguin Island, from a curious one we caught there) N.E. by +E 3/4 E.; the watering-place W. 1/2 N.; about one mile from the shore on +each side; Maria's Island, which is about five or six leagues off, shut in +with both points; so that you are quite land-locked in a most spacious +harbour. + +We lay here five days, which time was employed in wooding and watering +(which is easily got), and over-hauling the rigging. We found the country +very pleasant; the soil a black, rich, though thin one; the sides of the +hills covered with large trees, and very thick, growing to a great height +before they branch off. They are all of the evergreen kind, different from +any I ever saw; the wood is very brittle, and easily split; there is a very +little variety of sorts, having seen but two. The leaves of one are long +and narrow; and the seed (of which I got a few) is in the shape of a +button, and has a very agreeable smell. The leaves of the other are like +the bay, and it has a seed like the white thorn, with an agreeable spicy +taste and smell. Out of the trees we cut down for fire-wood, there issued +some gum, which the surgeon called gum-lac. The trees are mostly burnt or +scorched, near the ground, occasioned by the natives setting fire to the +under-wood, in the most frequented places; and by these means they have +rendered it easy walking. The land birds we saw, are a bird like a raven; +some of the crow kind, black, with the tips of the feathers of the tail and +wings white, their bill long and very sharp; some paroquets; and several +kinds of small birds. The sea-fowl are ducks, teal, and the sheldrake. I +forgot to mention a large white bird, that one of the gentlemen shot, about +the size of a large kite of the eagle kind. As for beasts, we saw but one, +which was an opossom; but we observed the dung of some, which we judged to +be of the deer kind. The fish in the bay are scarce; those we caught were +mostly sharks, dog-fish, and a fish called by the seamen nurses, like the +dog-fish, only full of small white spots; and some small fish not unlike +sprats. The lagoons (which are brackish) abound with trout, and several +other sorts of fish, of which we caught a few with lines, but being much +encumbered with stumps of trees, we could not haul the seine. + +While we lay here, we saw several smokes and large fires, about eight or +ten miles in shore to the northward, but did not see any of the natives; +though they frequently come into this bay, as there were several wigwams or +huts, where we found some bags and nets made of grass, in which I imagine +they carry their provisions and other necessaries. In one of them there was +the stone they strike fire with, and tinder made of bark, but of what tree +could not be distinguished. We found in one of their huts, one of their +spears, which was made sharp at one end, I suppose, with a shell or stone. +Those things we brought away, leaving in the room of them medals, gun- +flints, a few nails, and an old empty barrel with the iron hoops on it. +They seem to be quite ignorant of every sort of metal. The boughs, of which +their huts are made, are either broken or split, and tied together with +grass in a circular form, the largest end stuck in the ground, and the +smaller parts meeting in a point at the top, and covered with fern and +bark, so poorly done, that they will hardly keep out a shower of rain. In +the middle is the fire-place, surrounded with heaps of muscle, pearl, +scallop, and cray-fish shells, which I believe to be their chief food, +though we could not find any of them. They lie on the ground, on dried +grass, round the fire; and I believe they have no settled place of +habitation (as their houses seemed built only for a few days), but wander +about in small parties from place to place in search of food, and are +actuated by no other motive. We never found more than three or four huts in +a place, capable of containing three or four persons each only; and what is +remarkable, we never saw the least marks either of canoe or boat, and it is +generally thought they have none; being altogether, from what we could +judge, a very ignorant and wretched set of people, though natives of a +country capable of producing every necessary of life, and a climate the +finest in the world. We found not the least signs of any minerals or +metals. + +Having completed our wood and water, we sailed from Adventure Bay, +intending to coast it up along shore, till we should fall in with the land +seen by Captain Cook, and discover whether Van Diemen's Land joins with New +Holland. On the 16th, we passed Maria's Islands, so named by Tassman; they +appear to be the same as the main land. On the 17th, having passed +Shouten's Islands, we hauled in for the main land, and stood along shore at +the distance of two or three leagues off. The country here appears to be +very thickly inhabited, as there was a continual fire along shore as we +sailed. The land hereabouts is much pleasanter, low, and even; but no signs +of a harbour or bay, where a ship might anchor with safety. The weather +being bad, and blowing hard at S.S.E., we could not send a boat on shore to +have any intercourse with the inhabitants. In the latitude of 40 deg. 50' S., +the land trenches away to the westward, which I believe forms a deep bay, +as we saw from the deck several smokes arising a-back of the islands that +lay before it, when we could not see the least signs of land from the mast +head. + +From the latitude of 40 deg. 50' S., to the latitude of 39 deg. 50' S., is nothing +but islands and shoals; the land high, rocky, and barren. On the 19th, in +the latitude of 40 deg. 30' S., observing breakers about half a mile within +shore of us, we sounded, and finding but eight fathoms, immediately hauled +off, deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, then bore away and kept along +shore again. From the latitude of 39 deg. 50' to 39 deg. S., we saw no land, but +had regular soundings from fifteen to thirty fathoms. As we stood on to the +northward, we made land again in about 39 deg.; after which we discontinued our +northerly course, as we found the ground very uneven, and shoal-water some +distance off. I think it a very dangerous shore to fall in with. + +The coast, from Adventure Bay to the place where we stood away for New +Zealand, lies in the direction S. 1/2 W., and N. 1/2 E., about seventy-five +leagues; and it is my opinion that there are no straits between New Holland +and Van Diemen's Land, but a very deep bay.--I should have stood farther to +the northward, but the wind blowing strong at S.S.E., and looking likely to +haul round to the eastward, which would have blown right on the land, I +therefore thought it more proper to leave the coast and steer for New +Zealand. + +After we left Van Diemen's Land, we had very uncertain weather, with rain +and very heavy gusts of wind. On the 24th, we were surprised with a very +severe squall, that reduced us from top-gallant sails to reefed courses, in +the space of an hour. The sea rising equally quick, we shipped many waves, +one of which stove the large cutter, and drove the small one from her +lashing in the waist; and with much difficulty we saved her from being +washed overboard. This gale lasted twelve hours, after which we had more +moderate weather, intermixed with calms. We frequently hoisted out the +boats to try the currents, and in general found a small drift to the W.S.W. +We shot many birds; and had, upon the whole, good weather; but as we got +near to the land, it came on thick and dirty for several days, till we made +the coast of New Zealand in 40 deg. 30' S., having made twenty-four degrees of +longitude, from Adventure Bay, after a passage of fifteen days. + +We had the winds much southerly in this passage, and I was under some +apprehensions of not being able to fetch the straits, which would have +obliged us to steer away for George's Island; I would therefore advise any +who sail to this part, to keep to the southward, particularly in the fall +of the year, when the S. and S.E. winds prevail. + +1773 April + +The land, when we first made it, appeared high, and formed a confused +jumble of hills and mountains. We steered along shore to the northward, but +were much retarded in our course by reason of the swell from the N.E. At +noon, on the 3rd of April, Cape Farewell, which is the south point of the +entrance of the west side of the straits, bore E. by N. 1/2 N. by the +compass, three or four leagues distant. About eight o'clock we entered the +straits, and steered N.E. till midnight; then brought-to till day-light, +and had soundings from forty-five to fifty-eight fathoms, sand and broken +shells. At day-light, made sail and steered S.E. by E.; had light airs; +Mount Egmont N.N.E. eleven or twelve leagues, and Point Stephens S.E. 1/2 +E. seven leagues. At noon, Mount Egmont N. by E. twelve leagues; Stephens +Island S.E. five leagues. In the afternoon we put the dredge over-board in +sixty-five fathoms; but caught nothing except a few small scallops, two or +three oysters, and broken shells. + +Standing to the eastward for Charlotte's Sound, with a light breeze at +N.W., in the morning on the 5th, Stephens Island bearing S.W. by W. four +leagues, we were taken a-back with a strong easterly gale, which obliged us +to haul our wind to the S.E. and work to windward up under Port Jackson. +The course from Stephens Island to Point Jackson, is nearly S.E. by the +compass, eleven leagues distant, depth of water from forty to thirty-two +fathoms, sandy ground. As we stood off and on, we fired several guns, but +saw no signs of any inhabitants. In the afternoon, at half-past two, +o'clock, finding the tide set the ship to the westward, we anchored with +the coasting anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water, muddy ground; Point +Jackson S.E. 1/2 E. three leagues; the east point of an inlet (about four +leagues to the westward of Point Jackson, and which appears to be a good +harbour) S.W. by W. 1/2 W. At eight p.m. the tide slackening, we weighed +and made sail (having while at anchor caught several fish with hook and +line), and found the tide to run to the westward, at the rate of two and a +half knots per hour. Standing to the east, we found no ground at seventy +fathoms, off Point Jackson N.N.W., two leagues. At eight the next morning, +had the sound open; but the wind being down, it obliged us to work up under +the western shore, as the tide sets up strong there, when it runs down in +mid channel. At ten, the tide being done, was obliged to come-to with the +best bower in thirty-eight fathoms, close to some white rocks, Point +Jackson bearing N.W. 1/2 N.; the northernmost of the Brothers E. by S.; and +the middle of Entry Island (which lies on the north side of the straits) +N.E. We made 15 deg. 30' E., variation in the straits. As we sailed up the +sound we saw the tops of high mountains covered with snow, which remains +all the year. When the tide slackened, we weighed and sailed up the sound; +and about five o'clock on the 7th, anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms +water, muddy ground, and moored the best bower to the N.N.E., and small to +S.S.W. In the night, we heard the howling of dogs, and people hallooing on +the east shore. + +The two following days were employed in clearing a place on Motuara Island +for erecting our tents for the sick (having then several on board much +afflicted with the scurvy), the sail-makers and coopers. On the top of the +island was a post erected, by the Endeavour's people, with her name and +time of departure on it. + +On the 9th, we were visited by three canoes with about sixteen of the +natives; and to induce them to bring us fish and other provisions, we gave +them several things, with which they seemed highly pleased. One of our +young gentlemen seeing something wrapt up in a better manner than common, +had the curiosity to examine what it was; and to his great surprise found +it to be the head of a man lately killed. They were very apprehensive of +its being forced from them; and particularly the man who seemed most +interested in it, whose very flesh crept on his bones, for fear of being +punished by us, as Captain Cook had expressed his great abhorrence of this +unnatural act. They used every method to conceal the head, by shifting it +from one to another; and by signs endeavouring to convince us, that there +was no such thing amongst them, though we had seen it but a few minutes +before. They then took their leave of us, and went on shore. + +They frequently mentioned Tupia, which was the name of the native of +George's Island (or Otaheite), brought here by the Endeavour, and who died +at Batavia; and when we told them he was dead, some of them seemed to be +very much concerned, and, as well as we could understand them, wanted to +know whether we killed him, or if he died a natural death. By these +questions, they are the same tribe Captain Cook saw. In the afternoon, they +returned again with fish and fern roots, which they sold for nails and +other trifles; though the nails are what they set the most value on. The +man and woman who had the head, did not come off again. Having a catalogue +of words in their language, we called several things by name, which +surprised them greatly. They wanted it much, and offered a great quantity +of fish for it. + +Next morning, they returned again, to the number of fifty or sixty, with +their chief at their head (as we supposed), in five double canoes. They +gave us their implements of war, stone hatchets, and clothes, &c. for nails +and old bottles, which they put a great value on. A number of the head men +came on board us, and it was with some difficulty we got them out of the +ship by fair means; but on the appearance of a musket with a fixed bayonet, +they all went into their canoes very quickly. We were daily visited by more +or less, who brought us fish in great plenty for nails, beads, and other +trifles, and behaved very peaceably. + +We settled the astronomer with his instruments, and a sufficient guard, on +a small island, that is joined to Motuara at low water, called the Hippa, +where there was an old fortified town that the natives had forsaken. Their +houses served our people to live in; and, by sinking them about a foot +inside, we made them very comfortable. Having done this, we struck our +tents on the Motuara, and having removed the ship farther into the cove on +the west shore, moored her for the winter. We then erected our tents near +the river or watering-place, and sent ashore all the spars and lumber off +the decks, that they might be caulked; and gave her a winter coat to +preserve the hull and rigging. + +1773 May + +On the 11th of May, we felt two severe shocks of an earthquake, but +received no kind of damage. On the 17th, we were surprised by the people +firing guns on the Hippa, and having sent the boat, as soon as she opened +the sound, had the pleasure of seeing the Resolution off the mouth of it. +We immediately sent out the boats to tow her in, it being calm. In the +evening she anchored about a mile without us; and next morning weighed +and warped within us. Both ships felt uncommon joy at our meeting, after +an absence of fourteen weeks. + +CHAPTER VIII. + +_Transactions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with some Remarks on the +Inhabitants._ + +1773 May + +Knowing that scurvy-grass, celery, and other vegetables, were to be found +in this sound, I went myself the morning after my arrival, at day-break, to +look for some, and returned on board at breakfast with a boat-load. Being +now satisfied, that enough was to be got for the crews of both ships, I +gave orders that they should be boiled, with wheat and portable broth, +every morning for breakfast; and with peas and broth for dinner; knowing +from experience, that these vegetables, thus dressed, are extremely +beneficial, in removing all manner of scorbutic complaints. + +I have already mentioned a desire I had of visiting Van Diemen's Land, in +order to inform myself if it made a part of New Holland; and I certainly +should have done this, had the winds proved favourable. But as Captain +Furneaux had now, in a great measure, cleared up that point, I could have +no business there; and therefore came to a resolution to continue our +researches to the east, between the latitudes of 41 deg. and 46 deg.. I acquainted +Captain Furneaux therewith, and ordered him to get his ship in readiness to +put to sea as soon as possible. + +In the morning of the 20th, I sent ashore, to the watering-place near the +Adventure's tent, the only ewe and ram remaining, of those which I brought +from the Cape of Good Hope, with an intent to leave them in this country. +Soon after I visited the several gardens Captain Furneaux had caused to be +made and planted with various articles; all of which were in a flourishing +state, and, if attended to by the natives, may prove of great utility to +them. The next day I set some men to work to make a garden on Long Island, +which I planted with garden seeds, roots, &c. + +On the 22d in the morning, the ewe and ram, I had with so much care and +trouble brought to this place, were both found dead, occasioned, as was +supposed, by eating some poisonous plant. Thus my hopes of stocking this +country with a breed of sheep, were blasted in a moment. About noon, we +were visited, for the first time since I arrived, by some of the natives, +who dined with us; and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening +they were dismissed with presents. + +Early in the morning of the 24th, I sent Mr Gilbert the master to sound +about the rock we had discovered in the entrance of the sound. Myself, +accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, went in a boat to the west +bay on a shooting party. In our way, we met a large canoe in which were +fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first questions they asked was for +Tupia, the person I brought from Otaheite on my former voyage; and they +seemed to express some concern when we told them he was dead. These people +made the same enquiry of Captain Furneaux when he first arrived; and, on my +return to the ship in the evening, I was told that a canoe had been along- +side, the people in which seemed to be strangers, and who also enquired for +Tupia. Late in the evening Mr Gilbert returned, having sounded all round +the rock, which he found to be very small and steep. + +Nothing worthy of notice happened till the 29th, when several of the +natives made us a visit, and brought with them a quantity of fish, which +they exchanged for nails, &c. One of these people I took over to Motuara, +and shewed him some potatoes planted there by Mr Fannen, master of the +Adventure. There seemed to be no doubt of their succeeding; and the man was +so well pleased with them, that he, of his own accord, began to hoe the +earth up about the plants. We next took him to the other gardens, and +shewed him the turnips, carrots, and parsnips; roots which, together with +the potatoes, will be of more real use to them than all the other articles +we had planted. It was easy to give them an idea of these roots, by +comparing them with such as they knew. + +Two or three families of these people now took up their abode near us, +employing themselves daily in fishing, and supplying us with the fruits of +their labour; the good effects of which we soon felt. For we were, by no +means, such expert fishers as they are; nor were any of our methods of +fishing equal to theirs. + +1773 June + +On the 2d of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, I sent on +shore on the east side of the sound, two goats, male and female. The former +was something more than a year old; but the latter was much older. She had +two fine kids, some time before we arrived in Dusky Bay, which were killed +by cold, as hath been already mentioned. Captain Furneaux also put on +shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows; so that we have +reason to hope this country will in time be stocked with these animals, if +they are not destroyed by the natives before they become wild; for, +afterwards, they will be in no danger. But as the natives knew nothing of +their being left behind, it may be some time before they are discovered. + +In our excursion to the east, we met with the largest seal I had ever seen. +It was swimming on the surface of the water, and suffered us to come near +enough to fire at it; but without effect; for, after a chase of near an +hour, we were obliged to leave it. By the size of this animal, it probably +was a sea-lioness. It certainly bore much resemblance to the drawing in +Lord Anson's voyage; our seeing a sea-lion when we entered this sound, in +my former voyage, increaseth the probability; and I am of opinion, they +have their abode on some of the rocks, which lie in the strait, or off +Admiralty Bay. + +On the 3d, I sent a boat with the carpenter over to the east side of the +sound, to cut down some spars which we were in want of. As she was +returning, she was chased by a large double canoe full of people; but with +what intent is not known. Early the next morning, some of our friends +brought us a large supply of fish. One of them agreed to go away with us; +but afterwards, that is, when it came to the point, he changed his mind; as +did some others who had promised to go with the Adventure. + +It was even said that some of them offered their children to sale. I +however found that this was a mistake. The report first took its rise on +board the Adventure, where they were utter strangers to their language and +customs. It was very common for these people to bring their children with +them, and present them to us, in expectation that we would make them +presents; this happened to me the preceding morning. A man brought his son, +a boy about nine or ten years of age, and presented him to me. As the +report of selling their children was then current, I thought, at first, +that he wanted me to buy the boy. But at last I found that he wanted me to +give him a white shirt, which I accordingly did. The boy was so fond of his +new dress, that he went all over the ship, presenting himself before every +one that came in his way. This freedom used by him offended Old Will, the +ram goat, who gave him a butt with his horns, and knocked him backward on +the deck. Will would have repeated his blow, had not some of the people +come to the boy's assistance. The misfortune, however, seemed to him +irreparable. The shirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the +cabin before his father, until brought in by Mr Forster; when he told a +very lamentable story against goury the great dog (for so they call all the +quadrupeds we had aboard), nor could he be reconciled, till his shirt was +washed and dried. This story, though extremely trifling in itself, will +shew how liable we are to mistake these people's meaning, and to ascribe to +them customs they never knew even in thought. + +About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty +people, appeared in sight. Our friends on board seemed much alarmed, +telling us that these were their enemies. Two of them, the one with a +spear, and the other with a stone-hatchet in his hand, mounted the arm- +chests on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid those enemies +defiance; while the others, who were on board, took to their canoe and went +ashore, probably to secure the women and children. + +All I could do, I could not prevail on the two that remained to call these +strangers along-side; on the contrary, they were displeased at my doing it, +and wanted me to fire upon them. The people in the canoe seemed to pay very +little regard to those on board, but kept advancing slowly towards the +ship, and after performing the usual ceremonies, put along-side. After this +the chief was easily prevailed upon to come on board, followed by many +others, and peace was immediately established on all sides. Indeed, it did +not appear to me that these people had any intention to make war upon their +brethren. At least, if they had, they were sensible enough to know, that +this was neither the time nor place for them to commit hostilities. + +One of the first questions these strangers asked, was for Tupia; and when I +told them he was dead, one or two expressed their sorrow by a kind of +lamentation, which to me appeared more formal than real. A trade soon +commenced between our people and them. It was not possible to hinder the +former from selling the clothes from off their backs for the merest +trifles, things that were neither useful nor curious. This caused me to +dismiss the strangers sooner than I would have done. When they departed, +they went to Motuara, where, by the help of our glasses, we discovered four +or five canoes, and several people on the shore. This induced me to go over +in my boat, accompanied by Mr Forster and one of the officers. We were well +received by the chief and the whole tribe, which consisted of between +ninety and a hundred persons, men, women, and children, having with them +six canoes, and all their utensils; which made it probable that they were +come to reside in this sound. But this is only conjecture; for it is very +common for them, when they go but a little way, to carry their whole +property with them; every place being alike, if it affords them the +necessary subsistence; so that it can hardly be said they are ever from +home. Thus we may easily account for the emigration of those few families +we found in Dusky Bay. + +Living thus dispersed in small parties, knowing no head but the chief of +the family or tribe, whose authority may be very little, they feel many +inconveniences, to which well-regulated societies, united under one head or +any other form of government, are not subject. These form laws and +regulations for their general good; they are not alarmed at the appearance +of every stranger; and, if attacked or invaded by a public enemy, have +strong-holds to retire to, where they can with advantage defend themselves, +their property, and their country. This seems to be the state of most of +the inhabitants of Eahei-nomauwe; whereas those of Tavai-poenammoo, by +living a wandering life in small parties, are destitute of most of these +advantages, which subjects them to perpetual alarms. We generally found +them upon their guard, travelling and working, as it were with their arms +in their hands. Even the women are not exempted from bearing arms, as +appeared by the first interview I had with the family in Dusky Bay; where +each of the two women was armed with a spear, not less than 18 feet in +length. + +I was led into these reflections, by not being able to recollect the face +of any one person I had seen here three years ago: Nor did it once appear, +that any one of them had the least knowledge of me, or of any person with +me that was here at that time. It is therefore highly probable that the +greatest part of the people which inhabited this sound in the beginning of +the year 1770, have been since driven out of it, or have, of their own +accord, removed somewhere else. Certain it is, that not one third of the +inhabitants were here now, that were then. Their stronghold on the point of +Motuara hath been long deserted; and we found many forsaken habitations in +all parts of the sound. We are not, however, wholly to infer from this, +that this place hath been once very populous; for each family may, for +their own convenience, when they move from place to place, have more huts +than one or two. + +It may be asked, if these people had never seen the Endeavour, nor any of +her crew, how could they become acquainted with the name of Tupia, or have +in their possession (which many of them had) such articles, as they could +only have got from that ship? To this it may be answered, that the name of +Tupia was so popular among them when the Endeavour was here, that it would +be no wonder if, at this time, it was known over great part of New Zealand, +and as familiar to those who never saw him, as to those who did. Had ships, +of any other nation whatever, arrived here, they would have equally +enquired of them for Tupia. By the same way of reasoning, many of the +articles left here by the Endeavour, may be now in possession of those who +never saw her. I got from one of the people, now present, an ear ornament, +made of glass very well formed and polished. The glass they must have got +from the Endeavour. + +After passing about an hour on Motuara with these people, and having +distributed among them some presents, and shewed to the chief the gardens +we had made, I returned on board, and spent the remainder of our royal +master's birth-day in festivity; having the company of Captain Furneaux and +all his officers. Double allowance enabled the seamen to share in the +general joy. + +Both ships being now ready for sea, I gave Captain Furneaux an account in +writing of the route I intended to take; which was to proceed to the east, +between the latitudes of 41 deg. and 46 deg. S., until I arrived in the longitude +of 140 deg. or 135 deg. W., then, provided no land was discovered; to proceed to +Otaheite; from thence back to this place, by the shortest route; and after +taking in wood and water, to proceed to the south, and explore all the +unknown parts of the sea between the meridian of New Zealand and Cape Horn. +Therefore, in case of separation before we reached Otaheite, I appointed +that island for the place of rendezvous, where he was to wait till the 20th +of August: If not joined by me before that time, he was then to make the +best of his way back to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he was to wait until +the 20th of November: After which (if not joined by me,) he was to put to +sea, and carry into execution their lordships' instructions. + +Some may think it an extraordinary step in me to proceed on discoveries as +far south at 46 deg. degrees of latitude, in the very depth of winter. But +though it most be owned, that winter is by no means favourable for +discoveries, it nevertheless appeared to me necessary that something should +be done in it, in order to lessen the work I was upon; lest I should not be +able to finish the discovery of the southern part of the South Pacific +Ocean the ensuing summer. Besides, if I should discover any land in my +route to the east, I should be ready to begin, with the summer, to explore +it. Setting aside all these considerations, I had little to fear; having +two good ships well provided; and healthy crews. Where then could I spend +my time better? If I did nothing more, I was at least in hopes of being +able to point out to posterity, that these seas may be navigated, and that +it is practicable to go on discoveries; even in the very depth of winter. + +During our stay in the sound, I had observed that this second visit made to +this country, had not mended the morals of the natives of either sex. I had +always looked upon the females of New Zealand to be more chaste than the +generality of Indian women. Whatever favours a few of them might have +granted to the people in the Endeavour, it was generally done in a private +manner, and the men did not seem to interest themselves much in it. But +now, I was told, they were the chief promoters of a shameful traffic, and +that for a spike-nail, or any other thing they value, they would oblige the +women to prostitute themselves, whether they would or no; and even without +any regard to that privacy which decency required. + +During our stay here, Mr Wales lost no opportunity to observe equal +altitudes of the sun, for obtaining the rates of the watches. The result of +his labours proved, that Mr Kendal's was gaining 9", 5 per day, and Mr +Arnold's losing 94", 15s per day, on mean time. + +CHAPTER IX. + +_Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of some low Islands, +supposed to be the same that were seen by M. de Bougainville._ + +1773 June + +On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being more favourable, +we unmoored, and at seven weighed and put to sea, with the Adventure in +company. We had no sooner got out of the sound, than we found the wind at +south, so that we had to ply through the straits. About noon the tide of +ebb setting out in our favour, made our boards advantageous; so that, at +five o'clock in the evening. Cape Palliser, on the island of Eahei-nomauwe, +bore S.S.E. 1/2 S., and Cape Koamaroo, or the S.E. point of the sound, N. by +W. 3/4 W.; presently after it fell calm, and the tide of flood now making +against us, carried us at a great rate back to the north. A little before +high-water, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the north, which soon +increased to a brisk gale. This, together with the ebb, carried us by eight +o'clock the next morning quite through the strait. Cape Palliser at this +time bore E.N.E., and at noon N. by W. distant seven leagues. + +This day at noon, when we attended the winding-up of the watches, the fusee +of Mr Arnold's would not turn round, so that after several unsuccessful +trials we were obliged to let it go down. + +After getting clear of the straits, I directed my course S.E. by E., having +a gentle gale, but variable between the north and west. The late S.E. winds +having caused a swell from the same quarter, which did not go down for some +days, we had little hopes of meeting with land in that direction. We +however continued to steer to the S.E., and on the 11th crossed the +meridian of 180 deg., and got into the west longitude, according to my way of +reckoning. + +On the 16th, at seven in the morning, the wind having veered round to S.E., +we tacked and stretched to N.E., being at this time in the latitude of 47 deg. +7', longitude 173 deg. W. In this situation we had a great swell from N.E. + +The wind continued at S.E. and S.S.E., blew fresh at intervals, and was +attended with sometimes fair, and at other times rainy weather, till the +20th, on which day, being in the latitude of 44 deg. 30', longitude 165 deg. 45' +W., the wind shifted to the west, blew a gentle gale, and was attended with +fair weather. With this we steered E. by N., E. by S., and E., till the 23d +at noon, when, being in the latitude of 44 deg. 38' S., longitude 161 deg. 27' W., +we had a few hours calm. The calm was succeeded by a wind at east, with +which we stood to the north. The wind increased and blew in squalls, +attended with rain, which at last brought us under our courses; and at two +o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, we were obliged to lie-to under +the foresail, having a very hard gale from E.N.E., and a great sea from the +same direction. + +At seven o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the gale being more moderate, +we made sail under the courses, and in the afternoon set the top-sails +close-reefed. At midnight, the wind having veered more to the north, we +tacked and stretched to the S.E., being at this time in the latitude of 42 deg. +53' S., longitude 163 deg. 20' W. + +We continued to stretch to the S.E., with a fresh gale and fair weather, +till four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, when we stood again to +the N.E., till midnight between the 27th and 28th. Then we had a few hours +calm, which was succeeded by faint breezes from the west. At this time we +were in the latitude of 42 deg. 32', longitude 161 deg. 15' W. The wind remained +not long at west, before it veered back to the E. by the N., and kept +between the S.E. and N.E., but never blew strong. + +1773 July + +On July 2d, being in the latitude of 53 deg. 3', longitude 156 deg. 17' W., we had +again a calm, which brought the wind back to the west; but it was of no +longer continuance than before. For the next day it returned to the E. and +S.E., blew fresh at times, and by squalls, with rain. + +On the 7th, being in the latitude of 41 deg. 22', longitude 156 deg. 12' W., we had +two hours calm; in which time Mr Wales went on board the Adventure to +compare the watches, and they were found to agree, allowing for the +difference of their rates of going: A probable, if not a certain proof, +that they had gone well since we had been in this sea. + +The calm was succeeded by a wind from the south; between which point and +the N.W., it continued for the six succeeding days, but never blew strong. +It was, however, attended with a great hollow swell from the S.W. and W., a +sure indication that no large land was near in those directions. We now +steered east, inclining to the south, and on the 10th, in the latitude of +43 deg. 39', longitude 144 deg. 43' W., the variation was found, by several +azimuths, to be more than 3 deg. E., but the next morning it was found to be 4 deg. +5' 30", and in the afternoon, 5 deg. 56' E. The same day, at noon, we were in +the latitude of 43 deg. 44', longitude 141 deg. 56' W. + +At nine o'clock in the morning of the 12th, the longitude was observed as +follows, viz. + + Self 1st set 139 deg. 47' 15" + Ditto, 2d set 140 7 30 + Mr Wales 1st set 141 22 15 + Mr Wales 2d set 140 10 0 + Mr Clerke 140 56 45 + Mr Gilbert 140 2 0 + -------------- + Mean 140 24 17-1/2 West. + +This differed from my reckoning only 2 deg. 1/2. The next morning, in the +latitude of 43 deg. 3', longitude 139 deg. 20' W., we had several lunar +observations, which were consonant to those made the day before, allowing +for the ship's run in the time. In the afternoon we had, for a few hours, +variable light airs next to a calm; after which we got a wind from the +N.E., blowing fresh and in squalls, attended with dark gloomy weather, and +some rain. + +We stretched to the S.E. till five o'clock in the afternoon on the 14th, at +which time, being in the latitude of 43 deg. 15', longitude 137 deg. 39' W., we +tacked and stood to the north under our courses, having a very hard gale +with heavy squalls, attended with rain, till near noon the next day, when +it ended in a calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 42 deg. 39', +longitude 137 deg. 58' W. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze +from S.W., which soon after increased to a fresh gale; and fixing at S.S.W, +with it we steered N.E. 1/2 E. in the latitude of 41 deg. 25', longitude 135 deg. +58' W., we saw floating in the sea a billet of wood, which seemed to be +covered with barnacles; so that there was no judging how long it might have +been there, or from whence or how far it had come. + +We continued to steer N.E. 1/2 E., before a very strong gale which blew in +squalls, attended with showers of rain and hail, and a very high sea from +the same quarter, till noon, on the 17th. Being then in the latitude of 39 deg. +44', longitude 133 deg. 32' W., which was a degree and a half farther east than +I intended to run; nearly in the middle between my track to the north in +1769, and the return to the south in the same year, and seeing no signs of +land, I steered north-easterly, with a view of exploring that part of the +sea lying between the two tracks just mentioned, down as low as the +latitude of 27 deg., a space that had not been visited by any preceding +navigator that I knew of. + +On the 19th, being in the latitude of 36 deg. 34', longitude 133 deg. 7' W., we +steered N. 1/2 W., having still the advantage of a hard gale at south, +which the next day veered to S.E. and E., blew hard and by squalls, +attended with rain and thick hazy weather. This continued till the evening +of the 21st, when the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and the wind +backed to the S. and S.E. + +We were now in the latitude of 32 deg. 30', longitude 133 deg. 40' W., from this +situation we steered N.N.W. till noon the next day, when we steered a point +more to the west; being at this time in the latitude of 31 deg. 6', longitude +134 deg. 12' W. The weather was now so warm, that it was necessary to put on +lighter clothes; the mercury in the thermometer at noon rose to 63. It had +never been lower than 46, and seldom higher than 54, at the same time of +the day, since we left New Zealand. + +This day was remarkable by our not seeing a single bird. Not one had passed +since we left the land, without seeing some of the following birds, viz. +albatrosses, sheerwaters, pintadoes, blue peterels, and Port Egmont hens. +But these frequent every part of the Southern Ocean in the higher +latitudes: Not a bird, nor any other thing, was seen that could induce us +to think that we had ever been in the neighbourhood of any land. + +The wind kept veering round from the S. by the W. to N.N.W., with which we +stretched north till noon the next day, when, being in the latitude of 29 deg. +22', we tacked and stretched to the westward. The wind soon increased to a +very hard gale, attended with rain, and blew in such heavy squalls as to +split the most of our sails. This weather continued till the morning of the +25th, when the wind became more moderate, and veered to N.W. and W.N.W., +with which we steered and stretched to N.E., being at that time in the +latitude of 29 deg. 51', longitude 130 deg. 28' W. In the afternoon the sky cleared +up, and the weather became fair and settled. We now met the first tropic +bird we had seen in this sea. + +On the 26th, in the afternoon, being in the latitude of 28 deg. 44', we had +several observations of the sun and moon, which gave the longitude 135 deg. 30' +W. My reckoning at the same time was 135 deg. 27', and I had no occasion to +correct it since I left the land. We continued to stretch to the north, +with light breezes from the westward, till noon, the next day, when we were +stopped by a calm; our latitude at this time being 27 deg. 53', longitude 135 deg. +17' W. In the evening, the calm was succeeded by a breeze from the N. and +N.W., with which we plied to the N. + +On the 29th I sent on board the Adventure to enquire into the state of her +crew, having heard that they were sickly; and this I now found was but too +true. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her best men were down in the +scurvy and flux. At this time _we_ had only three men on the sick list, and +only one of them attacked with the scurvy. Several more, however, began to +shew symptoms of it, and were accordingly put upon the wort, marmalade of +carrots, rob of lemons and oranges. + +I know not how to account for the scurvy raging more in the one ship than +the other, unless it was owing to the crew of the Adventure being more +scorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than we were, and to their +eating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, +partly for want of knowing the right sorts, and partly because it was a new +diet, which alone was sufficient for seamen to reject it. To introduce any +new article of food among seamen, let it be ever so much for their good, +requires both the example and authority of a commander; without both, of +which it will be dropt before the people are sensible of the benefits +resulting from it. Were it necessary, I could name fifty instances in +support of this remark. Many of my people, officers as well seamen, at +first disliked celery, scurvy-grass, &c., being boiled in the peas and +wheat; and some refused to eat it. But, as this had no effect on my +conduct, this obstinate kind of prejudice by little and little wore off; +they began to like it as well as the others; and now, I believe, there was +hardly a man in the ship that did not attribute our being so free from the +scurvy, to the beer and vegetables we made use of at New Zealand. After +this I seldom found it necessary to order any of my people to gather +vegetables, whenever we came where any were to be got, and if scarce, happy +was he who could lay hold on them first. I appointed one of my seamen to be +cook of the Adventure, and wrote to Captain Furneaux, desiring him to make +use of every method in his power to stop the spreading of the disease +amongst his people, and proposing such as I thought might tend towards it. +But I afterwards found all this unnecessary, as every method had been used +they could think of. + +1773 August + +The wind continued in the N.W. quarter, and blew fresh at times, attended +with rain; with which we stood to the N.E. On the 1st of August, at noon, +we were in the latitude of 25 deg. 1', longitude 134 deg. 6' W., and had a great +hollow swell from N.W. The situation we were now in, was nearly the same +that Captain Carteret assigns for Pitcairn's Island, discovered by him in +1767. We therefore looked well out for it, but saw nothing. According to +the longitude in which he has placed it, we must have passed about fifteen +leagues to the west of it. But as this was uncertain, I did not think it +prudent, considering the situation of the Adventure's people, to lose any +time in looking for it. A sight of it would, however, have been of use in +verifying, or correcting, not only the longitude of this isle, but of the +others that Captain Carteret discovered in this neighbourhood; his +longitude not being confirmed, I think, by astronomical observations, and +therefore liable to errors, which he could have no method to correct. + +As we had now got to the northward of Captain Carteret's tracks, all hopes +of discovering a continent vanished. Islands were all we were to expect to +find, until we returned again to the south. I had now, that is on this and +my former voyage, crossed this ocean in the latitude of 40 deg. and upwards, +without meeting any thing that in the least induced me to think I should +find what I was in search after. On the contrary, every thing conspired to +make me believe there is no southern continent, between the meridian of +America and New Zealand; at least, this passage did not produce any +indubitable signs of any, as will appear by the following remarks. After +leaving the coasts of New Zealand, we daily saw floating on the sea rock- +weed, for the space of 18 deg. of longitude. In my passage to New Zealand in +1769, we also saw this weed, for the space of 12 or 14 deg. of longitude before +we made the land. The weed is undoubtedly the produce of New Zealand; +because the nearer the coast, the greater quantity you see. At the greatest +distance from the coast, we saw it only in small pieces, generally more +rotten, and covered with barnacles, an indubitable sign that it had been +long at sea. Were it not for this, one might be led to conjecture that some +other large land lay in the neighbourhood; for it cannot be a small extent +of coast to produce such a quantity of weed, as to cover so large a space +of sea. It hath been already mentioned, that we were no sooner clear of the +straits, than we met with a large hollow swell from the S.E., which +continued till we arrived in the longitude of 177 deg. W., and latitude 46 deg.. +There we had large billows from the N. and N.E., for five days +successively, and until we got 5 deg. of longitude more to the east, although +the wind, great part of the time, blew from different directions. This was +a strong indication that there was no land between us and my track to the +west in 1769. After this, we had, as is usual in all great oceans, large +billows from every direction in which the wind blew a fresh gale, but more +especially from the S.W. These billows never ceased with the cause that +first put them in motion; a sure indication that we were not near any large +land, and that there is no continent to the south, unless in a very high +latitude. But this was too important a point to be left to opinions and +conjectures. Facts were to determine it, and these could only be obtained +by visiting the southern parts; which was to be the work of the ensuing +summer, agreeable to the plan I had laid down. As the winds continued to +blow from the N.W. and W., we had no other choice but to stand to the +north, inclining more or less every day to the east. In the latitude of 21 deg. +we saw flying-fish, gannets, and egg-birds. On the sixth, I hoisted a boat +out, and sent for Captain Furneaux to dinner, from whom I learnt that his +people were much better, the flux having left them, and the scurvy was at a +stand. Some cyder which he happened to have, and which he gave to the +scorbutic people, contributed not a little to this happy change. The +weather to-day was cloudy, and the wind very unsettled. This seemed to +announce the approach of the so-much-wished-for trade-wind; which, at eight +o'clock in the evening, after two hours calm, and some heavy showers of +rain, we actually got at S.E. We were, at this time, in the latitude of 19 deg. +36' S., longitude 131 deg. 32" W. The not meeting with the S.E. trade-wind +sooner, is no new thing in this sea. As we had now got it, I directed my +course to the W.N.W., as well to keep in the strength of it, as to get to +the north of the islands discovered in my former voyage; that if any other +islands lay in the way, I might have a chance to discover them. During +the day-time we made all the sail we could; but, in the night, either run +an easy sail, or lay-to. We daily saw flying-fish, albacores, dolphins, +&c., but neither by striking, nor with hook and line, could we catch any of +them. This required some art, which none of my people were masters of. + +On the 11th at day-break, land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearer +approach, we found to be an island of about two leagues in extent, in the +direction of N.W. and S.E., and clothed with wood, above which the cocoa- +nut trees shewed their lofty heads. I judged it to be one of those isles +discovered by Mr Bougainville. It lies in the latitude of 17 deg. 24', +longitude 141 deg. 39' W., and I called it after the name of the ship, +Resolution Island. The sickly state of the Adventure's crew made it +necessary for me to make the best of my way to Otaheite, where I was sure +of finding refreshments. Consequently I did not wait to examine this +island, which appeared too small to supply our wants, but continued our +course to the west, and at six o'clock in the evening, land was seen from +the mast-head, bearing W. by S. Probably this was another of Bougainville's +discoveries. I named it Doubtful Island, and it lies in the latitude of 17 deg. +20', longitude 141 deg. 38' W. I was sorry I could not spare time to haul to +the north of Mr Bougainville's track; but the getting to a place where we +could procure refreshments, was more an object at this time than +discovery. + +During the night we steered W. by N., in order to pass the north of the +island above-mentioned. At day-break the next morning, we discovered land +right a-head, distant about two miles; so that day-light advised us of our +danger but just in time. This proved another of these low or half-drowned +islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty leagues in circuit. +A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little islets ranged +along the north side, and connected by sand-banks and breakers. These +islets were clothed with wood, among which the cocoa-nut trees were only +distinguishable. We ranged the south side of this isle or shoal at the +distance of one or two miles from the coral-bank, against which the sea +broke in a dreadful surf. In the middle is a large lake or inland sea, in +which was a canoe under sail. + +This island, which I named after Captain Furneaux, lies in the latitude of +17 deg. 5', longitude 143 deg. 16' W. The situation is nearly the same that is +assigned for one of those discovered by Bougainville. I must here observe, +that amongst these low and half-drowned isles (which are numerous in this +part of the ocean,) Mr Bougainville's discoveries cannot be known to that +degree of accuracy which is necessary to distinguish them from others. We +were obliged to have recourse to his chart for the latitudes and longitudes +of the isles he discovered, as neither the one nor the other is mentioned +in his narrative. Without waiting to examine this island we continued to +steer to the west, all sails set, till six o'clock in the evening, when we +shortened sail to three top-sails, and at nine brought-to. + +The next morning at four a.m. we made sail, and at daybreak saw another of +these low islands, situated in the latitude of 17 deg. 4', longitude 144 deg. 30' +W., which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. de Bougainville very +properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the Dangerous +Archipelago. The smoothness of the sea sufficiently convinced us that we +were surrounded by them, and how necessary it was to proceed with the +utmost caution, especially in the night. + +At five o'clock p.m. we again saw land, bearing S.W. by S., which we +afterwards found to be Chain Island, discovered in my former voyage. But as +I was not sure of it at this time, and being desirous of avoiding the delay +which lying by in the night occasioned, I hoisted out the cutter, and +manned her with an officer and seven men, with orders to keep as far a-head +of the ships, with a light at her masthead, as a signal could be +distinguished, which she was to make in case she met with any danger. In +this manner we continued to run all night; and, at six o'clock the next +morning, I called her on board, and hoisted her in. For it did not appear +she would be wanted again for this purpose, as we had now a large swell +from the south, a sure sign that we were clear of the low islands; +therefore I steered for Otaheite without being apprehensive of meeting with +any danger. + +CHAPTER X. + +_Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the critical +Situation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened while they +lay in Oaiti-piha Bay._ + +1773 August + +On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, we saw Osnaburg Island, or +Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis, bearing S. by W. 1/2 W. Soon after I +brought-to, and waited for the Adventure to come up with us, to acquaint +Captain Furneaux that it was my intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near +the south-east end of Otaheite, in order to get what refreshments we could +from that part of the island, before we went down to Matavia. This done, we +made sail, and at six in the evening saw the land bearing west. We +continued to stand on till midnight, when we brought-to, till four o'clock +in the morning, and then made sail in for the land with a fine breeze at +east. + +At day-break we found ourselves not more than half a league from the reef. +The breeze now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This made it +necessary to hoist out our boats to tow the ships off; but all their +efforts were not sufficient to keep them from being carried near the reef. +A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, +bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which +they exchanged for nails, beads, &c. The most of them knew me again, and +many enquired for Mr Banks and others who were with me before; but not one +asked for Tupia. As the calm continued, our situation became still more +dangerous. We were, however, not without hopes of getting round the western +point of the reef and into the bay, till about two o'clock in the +afternoon, when we came before an opening or break in the reef, through +which I hoped to get with the ships. But on sending to examine it, I found +there was not a sufficient depth of water; though it caused such an in- +draught of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving fatal to +the Resolution; for as soon as the ships got into the stream, they were +carried with great impetuosity towards the reef. The moment I perceived +this, I ordered one of the warping machines, which we had in readiness, to +be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope; but it had not the +least effect. The horrors of shipwreck now stared us in the face. We were +not more than two cables length from the breakers; and yet we could find no +bottom to anchor, the only probable means we had left to save the ships. +We, however, dropt an anchor; but, before it took hold, and brought us up, +the ship was in less than three fathom water, and struck at every fall of +the sea, which broke close under our stem in a dreadful surf, and +threatened us every moment with shipwreck. The Adventure, very luckily, +brought up close upon our bow without striking. + +We presently carried out two kedge-anchors, with hawsers to each; these +found ground a little without the bower, but in what depth we never knew. +By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower-anchor, we got the ship a- +float, where we lay some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every +minute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two +by the rocks. At length the tide ceased to act in the same direction. I +ordered all the boats to try to tow off the Resolution; and when I saw this +was practicable, we hove up the two kedges. At that moment, a light air +came off from the land, which so much assisted the boats, that we soon got +clear of all danger. Then I ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure, +but before they reached her, she was under sail with the land-breeze, and +soon after joined us, leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable, +and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus we were once more safe at +sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island we but a few +days before so ardently wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us into +this dangerous situation, very fortunately continued; for, had the sea- +breeze, as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost, +and probably the Adventure too. + +During the lime we were in this critical situation, a number of the natives +were on board and about the ships. They seemed to be insensible of our +danger, shewing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when we were +striking, and left us a little before sun-set, quite unconcerned. + +We spent the night, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards; +and the next morning, being the 17th, we anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay in +twelve fathoms water about two cables length from the shore; both ships +being by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who brought +with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananoes, apples, yams, and other roots, +which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several, who called themselves +chiefs, I made presents of shirts, axes, and several other articles, and, +in return, they promised to bring me hogs and fowls, a promise they never +did, nor ever intended to perform. + +In the afternoon, I landed in company with Captain Furneaux, in order to +view the watering-place, and to sound the disposition of the natives, I +also sent a boat to get some water for present use, having scarcely any +left on board. We found this article as convenient as could be expected, +and the natives to behave with great civility. + +Early in the morning, I sent the two launches and the Resolution's cutter, +under the command of Mr Gilbert, to endeavour to recover the anchors we had +left behind us; they returned about noon, with the Resolution's bower +anchor, but could not recover any of the Adventure's. The natives came off +again with fruit, as the day before, but in no great quantity. I also had a +party on shore, trading under the protection of a guard; nothing, however, +was brought to market but fruit and roots, though many hogs were seen (I +was told) about the houses of the natives. The cry was, that they belonged +to Waheatoun the _Earee de hi_, or king, and him we had not yet seen, +nor, I believe, any other chief of note. Many, however, who called +themselves _Earees_, came on board, partly with a view of getting +presents, and partly to pilfer whatever came in their way. + +One of this sort of _Earees_ I had, most of the day, in the cabin, and +made presents to him and all his friends, which were not few; at length he +was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out +of the quarter gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to me +against those on deck, which occasioned my turning them all out of the +ship. My cabin guest made good haste to be gone; I was so much exasperated +at his behaviour, that after he had got some distance from the ship, I +fired two muskets over his head, which made him quit the canoe, and take to +the water; I then sent a boat to take up the canoe, but as she came near +the shore, the people from thence began to pelt her with stones. Being in +some pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, I went myself in another boat +to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired +along the coast, which made them all retire from the shore, and I was +suffered to bring away two canoes without the least shew of opposition. In +one of the canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened, but I soon +dissipated his fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on shore. A few +hours after, we were all good friends again, and the canoes were returned +to the first person who came for them. + +It was not till the evening of this day, that any one enquired after Tupia, +and then but two or three. As soon as they learnt the cause of his death, +they were quite satisfied; indeed, it did not appear to me, that it would +have caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his death +been occasioned by any other means than by sickness. As little enquiry was +made after Aotourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville. But +they were continually asking for Mr Banks, and several others who were with +me in my former voyage. + +These people informed us, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninsula +of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought between the two +kingdoms about five months before, and that _Otoo_ was the reigning +prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of our principal friends about +Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of common people; but, +at present, a peace subsisted between the two kingdoms. + +On the 19th, we had gentle breezes easterly, with some smart showers of +rain. Early in the morning, the boats were again sent to recover the +Adventure's anchors, but returned with the same ill success as the day +before, so that we ceased to look for them any longer, thinking ourselves +very happy in having come off so well, considering the situation we had +been in. In an excursion which Captain Furneaux and I made along the coast, +we met with a chief who entertained us with excellent fish, fruit, &c. In +return for his hospitality, I made him a present of an axe and other +things; and he afterwards accompanied us back to the ships, where he made +but a short stay. + +Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the dusk of the evening, +when one of the natives made off with a musquet belonging to the guard on +shore. I was present when this happened, and sent some of our people after +him, which would have been to little purpose, had not some of the natives, +of their own accord, pursued the thief. They knocked him down, took from +him the musquet, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occasion, certainly +operated more with them than principle. They deserve, however, to be +applauded for this act of justice, for, if they had not given their +immediate assistance, it would hardly have been in my power to have +recovered the musquet, by any gentle means whatever, and by making use of +any other, I was sure to lose more than ten times its value. + +The 21st, the wind was at north, a fresh breeze. This morning a chief made +me a visit, and presented me with a quantity of fruit, among which, were a +number of cocoanuts we had drawn the water from, and afterwards thrown, +over board; these he had picked up, and tied in bundles so artfully, that +we did not at first perceive the cheat; when he was told of it, without +betraying the least emotion, and, as if he knew nothing of the matter, he +opened two or three of them himself, signified to us, that he was satisfied +it was so, and then went ashore and sent off a quantity of plantains and +bananoes. Having got on board a supply of water, fruit, and roots, I +determined to sail in the morning to Matavai, as I found it was not likely +that I should get an interview with Waheatoua, without which, it was very +improbable we should get any hogs. Two of the natives, who knew my +intention, slept on board, with a view of going with us to Matavai, but, in +the morning, the wind blew fresh at N.W., and as we could not sail, I sent +the trading party on shore as usual. + +In the evening, I was informed that Waheatoua was come into the +neighourhood, and wanted to see me. In consequence of this information, I +determined to wait one day longer, in order to have an interview with this +prince. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set out in company with +Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of the natives. We met the chief +about a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was advancing to meet +us; but, as soon as he saw us, he stopt, with his numerous train, in the +open air. I found him seated upon a stool, with a circle of people round +him, and knew him at first sight, and he me, having seen each other several +times in 1769. At that time he was but a boy, and went by the name of +Tearee, but, upon the death of his father, Waheatoun, he took upon him that +name. + +After the first salutation was over, having seated me on the same stool +with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by us, he began to +enquire after several by name who were with me on my former voyage. He next +enquired how long I would stay, and when I told him no longer than next +day, he seemed sorry, asked me to stay some months, and at last came down +to five days, promising, that in that time I should have hogs in plenty; +but, as I had been here already a week, without so much as getting one, I +could not put any faith in this promise; and yet, I believe, if I had +staid, we should have fared much better than at Matavai. The present I made +him consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad axe, spike-nails, knives, +looking-glasses, medals, beads, &c.; in return, he ordered a pretty good +hog to be carried to our boat. We staid with him all the morning, during +which time, he never suffered me to go from his side, where he was seated. +I was also seated on the same stool, which was carried from place to place +by one of his attendants, whom he called stool-bearer. At length we took +leave, in order to return on board to dinner, after which, we visited him +again, and made him more presents, and he, in return, gave Captain Furneaux +and me each of us an hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the trading +places; so that we got in the whole, to-day, as much fresh pork as gave the +crews of both the ships a meal; and this in consequence of our having this +interview with the chief. + +The 24th, early in the morning, we put to sea with a light land-breeze. +Soon after we were out, we got the wind at west, which blew in squalls, +attended with heavy showers of rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to sea, +with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and did not leave us till they had +disposed of their cargoes. + +The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recovery of the +Adventure's sick people; many of them, who had been so ill as not to be +able to move without assistance, were, in this short time so far recovered, +that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in here, the +Resolution had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine, who had been +long sick, and who died the second day after our arrival, of a complication +of disorders, without the least mixture of the scurvy. I left Lieutenant +Pickersgill, with the cutter, behind the bay, to purchase hogs, as several +had promised to bring some down to-day, and I was not willing to lose them. + +On the 25th; about noon, Mr Pickersgill returned with eight hogs, which he +got at Oaiti-piha. He spent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertained +by Ereti, the chief of that district. It was remarkable, that this chief +never once asked after Aotouroo, nor did he take the least notice when Mr +Pickersgill mentioned his name. And yet M. de Bougainville tells us, this +is the very chief who presented Aotourou to him; which makes it the more +extraordinary, that he should neither enquire after him now, nor when he +was with us at Matavai, especially as they believed that we and M. de +Bougainville came from the same country, that is, from _Pretane_, for +so they called our country. They had not the least knowledge of any other +European nation, nor probably will they, unless some of those men should +return who had lately gone from the isle, of which mention shall be made +bye and bye. We told several of them, that M. de Bougainville came from +France, a name they could by no means pronounce; nor could they pronounce +that of Paris much better; so that it is not likely that they will remember +either the one or the other long; whereas _Pretane_ is in every +child's mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till the +evening of this day that we arrived in Matavai bay. + +CHAPTER XI. + +_An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats being left on +the Island; and many other Particulars which happened while the Ships lay +in Matavai Bay._ + +1773 August + +Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with the natives; many +of whom I knew, and almost all of them knew me. A great crowd were gotten +together upon the shore; amongst whom was Otoo their king. I was just going +to pay him a visit, when I was told he was _mataow'd_, and gone to +Oparree. I could not conceive the reason of his going off in a fright, as +every one seemed pleased to see me. A chief, whose name was Maritata, was +at this time on board, and advised me to put off my visit till the next +morning, when he would accompany me; which I accordingly did. + +After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the sick, +coopers, sail-makers, and the guard, I set out on the 26th for Oparree; +accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and others, Maritata and his +wife. As soon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo, whom we found seated +on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd around him. +After the first compliments were over, I presented him with such articles +as I guessed were most valuable in his eyes; well knowing that it was my +interest to gain the friendship of this man. I also made presents to +several of his attendants; and, in return, they offered me cloth, which I +refused to accept; telling them that what I had given was for _tiyo_ +(friendship). The king enquired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were +with me in my former voyage, by name; although I do not remember that he +was personally acquainted with any of us. He promised that I should have +some hogs the next day; but I had much ado to obtain a promise from him to +visit me on board. He said he was, _mataou no to poupoue_, that is, +afraid of the guns. Indeed all his actions shewed him to be a timorous +prince. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine, +personable, well-made man as one can see. All his subjects appeared +uncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by uncovering, +is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort of clothing +above the breast. + +When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the astronomer's +observatories, set up on the same spot where we observed the transit of +Venus in 1769. In the afternoon, I had the sick landed; twenty from the +Adventure, all ill of the scurvy; and one from the Resolution. I also +landed some marines for a guard, and left the command to Lieutenant +Edgecumbe of the marines. + +On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid +me a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, +a hog, and two large fish; and, after some persuasion, came aboard himself, +with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of his attendants. To +all of them I made presents; and, after breakfast, took the king, his +sister, and as many more as I had room for, into my boat, and carried them +home to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met by a venerable old +lady, the mother of the late Toutaha. She seized me by both hands, and +burst into a flood of tears, saying, _Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty +Toutaha_--(Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead.) I was +so much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible for +me to have refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and +taken me from her. I, with some difficulty, prevailed on him to let me see +her again, when I gave her an axe and some other things. Captain Furneaux, +who was with me, presented the king with two fine goats, male and female, +which if taken care of, or rather if no care at all is taken of them will +no doubt multiply. After a short stay, we look leave and returned on board. + +Very early in the morning on the 28th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the +cutter, as far as Ottahourou, to procure hogs. A little after sun-rise, I +had another visit from Otoo, who brought me more cloth, a pig, and some +fruit. His sister, who was with him, and some of his attendants, came on +board; but he and others went to the Adventure with the like present to +Captain Furneaux. It was not long before he returned with Captain Furneaux +on board the Resolution, when I made him a handsome return for the present +he had brought me, and dressed his sister out in the best manner I could. +She, the king's brother, and one or two more, were covered before him to- +day. When Otoo came into the cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were +sitting there. The moment they saw the king enter, they stripped themselves +in great haste, being covered before. Seeing I took notice of it, they said +_Earee, Earee_; giving me to understand that it was on account of Otoo +being present. This was all the respect they paid him; for they never rose +from their seats, nor made him any other obeisance. When the king thought +proper to depart, I carried him again to Oparree in my boat; where I +entertained him and his people with the bagpipes (of which music they are +very fond) and dancing by the seamen. He then ordered some of his people to +dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There were some, +however, who could imitate the seamen pretty well, both in country-dances +and hornpipes. While we were here, I had a present of cloth from the late +Toutaha's mother. This good old lady could not look upon me without +shedding tears; however, she was far more composed than before. When we +took leave, the king promised to visit me again the next day; but said that +I must first come to him. In the evening Mr Pickersgill came back empty, +but with a promise of having some hogs, if he would return in a few days. + +Next morning after breakfast, I took a trip to Oparree, to visit Otoo as he +had requested, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and some of the officers. We +made him up a present of such things as he had not seen before. One article +was a broad-sword; at the sight of which he was so intimidated, that I had +much ado to persuade him to accept of it, and to have it buckled upon him; +where it remained but a short time, before he desired leave to take it off, +and send it out of his sight. + +Soon after we were conducted to the theatre; where we were entertained with +a dramatic _heuva_, or _play_, in which were both dancing and +comedy. The performers were five men, and one woman, who was no less a +person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only; it +lasted about an hour and a half, or two hours; and, upon the whole, was +well conducted. It was not possible for us to find out the meaning of the +play. Some part seemed adapted to the present time, as my name was +frequently mentioned. Other parts were certainly wholly unconnected with +us. It apparently differed in nothing, that is, in the manner of acting it, +from those we saw at Ulielea in my former voyage. The dancing-dress of the +lady was more elegant than any I saw there, by being decorated with long +tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. As soon as all +was over, the king himself desired me to depart; and sent into the boat +different kinds of fruit and fish, ready dressed. With this we returned on +board; and the next morning he sent me more fruit, and several small +parcels of fish. + +Nothing farther remarkable happened till ten o'clock in the evening, when +we were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise, on shore, near +the bottom of the bay, at some distance from our encampment. I suspected +that it was occasioned by some of our own people; and immediately armed a +boat, and sent on shore, to know the occasion of this disturbance, and to +bring off such of our people as should be found there. I also sent to the +Adventure, and to the post on shore, to know who were missing; for none +were absent from the Resolution but those who were upon duty. The boat soon +returned with three marines and a seaman. Some others belonging to the +Adventure were also taken; and, being all put under confinement, the next +morning I ordered them to be punished according to their deserts. I did not +find that any mischief was done, and our people would confess nothing. I +believe this disturbance was occasioned by their making too free with the +women. Be this as it will, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled +from their habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread many +miles along the coast. For when I went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by +appointment, I found him removed, or rather fled, many miles from the place +of his abode. Even there I was obliged to wait some hours, before I could +see him at all; and when I did, he complained of the last night's riot. + +As this was intended to be my last visit, I had taken with me a present +suitable to the occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep, which +he had seen before and asked for; for these people never lose a thing by +not asking for it. He was much pleased with them; though he could be but +little benefited, as they were all weathers; a thing he was made acquainted +with. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears, and +opened his heart so much, that he sent for three hogs; one for me, one for +Captain Furneaux, and one for Mr Forster. This last was small, of which we +complained, calling it _ete, ete_. Presently after a man came into the +circle, and spoke to the king with some warmth, and in a very peremptory +manner; saying something or other about hogs. We at first thought he was +angry with the king for giving us so many, especially as he took the little +pig away with him. The contrary, however, appeared to be the true cause of +his displeasure; for, presently after he was gone, a hog, larger than +either of the other two, was brought us in lieu of the little one. When we +took leave, I acquainted him that I should sail from the island the next +day; at which he seemed much moved, and embraced me several times. We +embarked to return on board, and he, with his numerous train, directed his +march back to Oparree. + +1773 September + +The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water-casks repaired, and +water completed, as well as the necessary repairs of the ships, I +determined to put to sea without farther delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of +September, I ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, and the +ships to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the most of the day. In +the afternoon, Mr Pickersgill returned from Attahourou; to which place I +had sent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been promised. My old +friend Pottatou, the chief of that district, his wife, or mistress, (I know +not which,) and some more of his friends, came along with Mr Pickersgill, +in order to visit me. They brought me a present of two hogs and some fish; +and Mr Pickersgill got two more hogs, by exchange, from Oamo; for he went +in the boat as far as Paparra, where he saw old Oberea. She seemed much +altered for the worse, poor, and of little consequence. The first words she +said to Mr Pickersgill were, _Earee mataou ina boa_, Earee is +frightened, you can have no hogs. By this it appeared that she had little +or no property, and was herself subject to the Earee, which I believe was +not the case when I was here before. The wind, which had blown westerly all +day, having shifted at once to the east, we put to sea; and I was obliged +to dismiss my friends sooner than they wished to go; but well satisfied +with the reception they had met with. + +Some hours before we got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo, +came and desired I would take him with me. I consented, thinking he might +be of service to us on some occasion. Many more offered themselves, but I +refused to take them. This youth asked me for an axe and a spike-nail for +his father, who was then on board. He had them accordingly, and they parted +just as we were getting under sail, more like two strangers than father and +son. This raised a doubt in me whether it was so; which was farther +confirmed, by a canoe, conducted by two men, coming along-side, as we were +standing out of the bay, and demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. I +now saw that the whole was a trick to get something from me; well knowing +that Otoo was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the +matter. Poreo seemed, however, at first undetermined whether he should go +or stay; but he soon inclined to the former. I told them to return me the +axe and nails, and then he should go, (and so he really should,) but they +said they were on shore, and so departed. Though the youth seemed pretty +well satisfied, he could not refrain from weeping when he viewed the land +astern. + +CHAPTER XII. + +_An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, with the Incidents +that happened while the Ships lay there; and of Omai, one of the Natives, +coming away in the Adventure._ + +1773 September + +As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I directed my course +for the island of Huaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it the next +day, and spent the night, making short boards under the north end of the +island. At day-light, in the morning of the 3d, we made sail for the +harbour of Owharre; in which the Resolution anchored, about nine o'clock, +in twenty-four fathoms water. As the wind blew out of the harbour, I chose +to turn in by the southern channel, it being the widest. The Resolution +turned in very well, but the Adventure, missing stays, got ashore on the +north side of the channel. I had the Resolution's launch in the water +ready, in case of an accident of this kind, and sent her immediately to the +Adventure. By this timely assistance, she was got off again, without +receiving any damage. Several of the natives, by this time, had come off to +us, bringing with them some of the productions of the island; and as soon +as the ships were both in safety, I landed with Captain Furneaux, and was +received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. I distributed some +presents among them; and they presently after brought down hogs, fowls, +dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, +beads, &c. The like trade was soon opened on board the ships; so that we +had a fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and +fowls; and to people in our situation, this was no unwelcome thing. I +learnt that my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, and +that he was hastening to this part to see me. + +Early next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a +trading party, toward the south end of the isle. I also sent another +trading party on shore near the ships, with which I went myself, to see +that it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a very necessary +point to be attended to. Every thing being settled to my mind, I went, +accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to pay my first visit to +Oree, who, I was told, was waiting for me. We were conducted to the place +by one of the natives; but were not permitted to go out of our boat, till +we had gone through some part of the following ceremony usually performed +at this isle, on such like occasions. The boat in which we were desired to +remain being landed before the chief's house, which stood close to the +shore, five young plaintain trees, which are their emblems of peace, were +brought on board separately, and with some ceremony. Three young pigs, with +their ears ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three; +and a dog, the fourth. Each had its particular name and purpose, rather too +mysterious for us to understand. Lastly, the chief sent to me the +inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which I left with him in +July 1769. It was in the same bag I had made for it, together with a piece +of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, put in at the same time; +which shews how well he had taken care of the whole. When they had made an +end of putting into the boat the things just mentioned, our guide, who +still remained with us, desired us to decorate the young plaintain trees +with looking-glasses, nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordingly +done, we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted towards the +chief, through the multitude; they making a lane, as it were, for us to +pass through. We were made to sit down a few paces short of the chief, and +our plantains were then taken from us, and, one by one, laid before him, as +the others had been laid before us. One was for _Eatoua_ (or God), the +second for the _Earee_ (or king), and the third for _Tiyo_ (or +friendship). This being done, I wanted to go to the king, but was told that +he would come to me; which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck, and +embraced me. This was by no means ceremonious; the tears which trickled +plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently bespoke the +language of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends were +introduced to us, to whom we made presents. Mine to the chief consisted of +the most valuable articles I had; for I regarded this man as a father. In +return he gave me a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising that all our +wants should be supplied; and it will soon appear how well he kept his +word. At length we took leave, and returned on board; and, some time after, +Mr Pickersgill returned also with fourteen hogs. Many more were got by +exchanges on shore, and along-side the ships; besides fowls and fruit in +abundance. + +This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th, +together with some of his friends, bringing me a hog and some fruit, for +which I made him a suitable return. He carried his kindness so far, as not +to fail to send me every day, for my table, the very best of ready dressed +fruit and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant Pickersgill being again +sent with the two boats, in search of hogs, returned in the evening with +twenty-eight; and about four times that number were purchased on shore, and +along-side the ships. + +Next morning the trading party, consisting of only two or three people, +were sent on shore as usual; and, after breakfast, I went to the place +myself, when I learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very troublesome +and insolent. This man being pointed out to me, completely equipped in the +war habit, with a club in each hand, as he seemed bent on mischief, I took +these from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with some difficulty, +forced him to retire from the place. As they told me that he was a chief, +this made me the more suspicious of him, and occasioned me to send for a +guard, which till now I had thought unnecessary. About this time, Mr +Sparrman, having imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was set upon by two +men, who stripped him of every thing he had about him, except his trowsers, +and struck him several times with his own hanger, but happily did him no +harm. As soon as they had accomplished their end, they made off; after +which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and +conducted him to the trading place, where were a great number of the +inhabitants. The very instant Mr Sparrman appeared in the condition I have +just mentioned, they all fled with the utmost precipitation. I at first +conjectured they had stolen something; but we were soon undeceived upon Mr +Sparrman's relating the affair to us. As soon as I could recal a few of the +natives, and had made them sensible that I should take no step to injure +those who were innocent, I went to Oree to complain of this outrage, taking +with us the man who came back with Mr Sparrman, to confirm the complaint. +As soon as the chief heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, as did +many others. After the first transports of his grief were over, he began to +expostulate with his people, telling them (as far as we could understand) +how well I had treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and how +base it was in them to commit such actions. He then took a very minute +account of the things Mr Sparrman had been robbed of, promised to do all in +his power to recover them, and, rising up, desired me to follow him to my +boat. When the people saw this, being, as I supposed, apprehensive of his +safety, they used every argument to dissuade him from what they, no doubt, +thought a rash step. He hastened into the boat, notwithstanding all they +could do or say. As soon as they saw their beloved chief wholly in my +power, they set up a great outcry. The grief they shewed was inexpressible; +every face was bedewed with tears; they prayed, entreated, nay, attempted +to pull him out of the boat. I even joined my entreaties to theirs; for I +could not bear to see them in such distress. All that could be said, or +done, availed nothing. He insisted on my coming into the boat, which was no +sooner done than he ordered it to be put off. His sister, with a spirit +equal to that of her royal brother, was the only person who did not oppose +his going. As his intention in coming into our boat was to go with us in +search of the robbers, we proceeded accordingly as far as was convenient by +water, then landed, entered the country, and travelled some miles inland, +the chief leading the way, enquiring of every one he saw. At length he +stepped into a house by the road side, ordered some cocoa-nuts for us, and +after we were a little refreshed, wanted to proceed still farther. But this +I opposed, thinking that we might be carried to the very farthest end of +the island, after things, the most of which, before they came into our +hands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief used many +arguments to persuade me to proceed, telling me that I might send my boat +round to meet us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if I +thought it too far to travel. But I was resolved to return, and he was +obliged to comply and return with me, when he saw I would follow him no +farther. I only desired he would send somebody for the things; for I found +that the thieves had got so much start of us, that we might follow them to +the remotest parts of the isle, without so much as seeing them. Besides, as +I intended to sail the next morning, this occasioned a great loss to us, by +putting a stop to all manner of trade; for the natives were so much +alarmed, that none came near us, but those that were about the chief. It +therefore became the more necessary for me to return, to restore things to +their former state. When we got back to our boat, we there found Oree's +sister, and several more persons, who had travelled by land to the place. +We immediately stepped into the boat in order to return on board, without +so much as asking the chief to accompany us. He, however, insisted on going +also, and followed us into the boat in spite of the opposition and +entreaties of those about him; his sister followed his example, and the +tears and prayers of her daughter, who was about sixteen or eighteen years +of age, had no weight with her on this occasion. The chief sat at table +with us, and made a hearty dinner; his sister, according to custom, eat +nothing. After dinner, I sufficiently rewarded them for the confidence they +had put in me; and, soon after, carried them both on shore, where some +hundreds of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced their +chief with tears of joy. All was now joy and peace: The people crowded in, +from every part, with hogs, fowls, and fruit, so that we presently filled +two boats: Oree himself presented me with a large hog and a quantity of +fruit. The hanger (the only thing of value Mr Sparrman had lost) with part +of his coat, were brought us; and we were told, we should have the others +the next day. Some of the officers, who were out on a shooting party, had +some things stolen from them, which were returned in like manner. + +Thus ended the troublesome transactions of this day, which I have been the +more particular in relating, because it shews what great confidence this +brave old chief put in us; it also in some degree shews, that friendship is +sacred with them. Oree and I were professed friends in all the forms +customary among them; and he seemed to think that this could not be broken +by the act of any other persons. Indeed this seemed to be the great +argument he made use of to his people, when they opposed his going into my +boat. His words were to this effect:--"Oree (meaning me, for so I was +always called) and I are friends; I have done nothing to forfeit his +friendship; why then should I not go with him?" We, however, may never find +another chief who will act in the same manner, under similar circumstances. +It may be asked, What had he to fear? to which I answer, Nothing. For it +was not my intention to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a moment +longer than he desired. But how was he or the people to know this? They +were not ignorant, that if he was once in my power, the whole force of the +island could not take him from me, and that, let my demands for his ransom +have been ever so high, they must have complied with them. Thus far their +fears, both for his and their own safety, were founded in reason. + +On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring, I went to +pay my farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr +Forster. We took with us for a present, such things as were not only +valuable, but useful. I also left with him the inscription plate he had +before in keeping, and another small copper-plate, on which were engraved +these words: "Anchored here, his "Britannic Majesty's ships Resolution and +Adventure, September, 1773," together with some medals, all put up in a +bag; of which the chief promised to take care, and to produce to the first +ship or ships that should arrive at the island. He then gave me a hog; and, +after trading for six or eight more, and loading the boat with fruit, we +took leave, when the good old chief embraced me with tears in his eyes. At +this interview nothing was said about the remainder of Mr Sparrman's +clothes. I judged they were not brought in; and for that reason did not +mention them, lest I should give the chief pain about things I did not give +him time to recover; for this was early in the morning. + +When we returned to the ships, we found them crowded round with canoes full +of hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our first arrival. I had not been long on +board, before Oree himself came to inform me, as we understood, that the +robbers were taken, and to desire us to go on shore, either to punish, or +to see them punished; but this could not be done, as the Resolution was +just under sail, and the Adventure already out of the harbour. The chief +stayed on board till we were a full half league out at sea; then took a +most affectionate leave of me; and went away in a canoe, conducted by one +man and himself; all the others having gone long before. I was sorry that +it was not convenient for me to go on shore with him, to see in what manner +these people would have been punished; for I am satisfied, this was what +brought him on board. + +During our short stay at the small but fertile isle of Huaheine, we +procured to both ships not less than three hundred hogs, besides fowls and +fruits; and, had we stayed longer, might have got many more: For none of +these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but appeared every +where in as great abundance as ever. + +Before we quitted this island, Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board +his ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea; where he had had some +property, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. I at +first rather wondered that Captain Furneaux would encumber himself with +this man, who, in my opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of +these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank; +nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion: For their people of the +first rank are much fairer, and usually better behaved, and more +intelligent, than the middling class of people, among whom Omai is to be +ranked. I have, however, since my arrival in England, been convinced of my +error: For excepting his complexion (which is undoubtedly of a deeper hue +than that of the _Earees_, or gentry, who, as in other countries, live +a more luxurious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun), I much +doubt whether any other of the natives would have given more general +satisfaction by his behaviour among us. Omai has most certainly a very good +understanding, quick parts, and honest principles; he has a natural good +behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best company; and a proper +degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons of +inferior rank. He has passions of the same kind as other young men, but has +judgment enough not to indulge them in any improper excess. I do not +imagine that he has any dislike to liquor, and if he had fallen into +company where the person who drank the most met with the most approbation, +I have no doubt, but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applause of +those with whom he associated; but, fortunately for him, he perceived that +drinking was very little in use but among inferior people, and as he was +very watchful into the manners and conduct of the persons of rank who +honoured him with their protection, he was sober and modest, and I never +heard that, during the whole time of his stay in England, which was two +years, he ever once was disguised with wine, or ever shewed an inclination +to go beyond the strictest rules of moderation. + +Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the first Lord of +the Admiralty, introduced him to his majesty at Kew, when he met with a +most gracious reception, and imbibed the strongest impression of duty and +gratitude to that great and amiable prince, which I am persuaded he will +preserve to the latest moment of his life. During his stay among us he was +caressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit the +esteem of any one of them; but his principal patrons were the Earl of +Sandwich, Mr Banks, and Dr Solander; the former probably thought it a duty +of his office to protect and countenance an inhabitant of that hospitable +country, where the wants and distresses of those in his department had been +alleviated and supplied in the most ample manner; the others, as a +testimony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with +during their residence in his country. It is to be observed, that though +Omai lived in the midst of amusements during his residence in England, his +return to his native country was always in his thoughts, and though he was +not impatient to go, he expressed a satisfaction as the time of his return +approached. He embarked with me in the Resolution, when she was fitted out +for another voyage, loaded with presents from his several friends, and full +of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced among +us. + +CHAPTER XIII. + +_Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With an Account of +what happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives, coming away in the +Resolution._ + +1773 September + +The chief was no sooner gone, than we made sail for Ulietea (where I +intended to stop a few days). Arriving off the harbour of Ohamaneno at the +close of the day, we spent the night making short boards. It was dark, but +we were sufficiently guided by the fishers lights on the reefs and shores +of the isles. The next morning, after making a few trips, we gained the +entrance of the harbour; and, as the wind blew directly out, I sent a boat +to lie in soundings, that we might know when to anchor. As soon as the +signal was made by her, we borrowed close to the south point of the +channel; and, with our sails set, shooting within the boat, we anchored in +seventeen fathoms water. We then carried out anchors and hawsers, to warp +in by; and, as soon as the Resolution was out of the way, the Adventure +came up in like manner, and warped in by the Resolution. The warping in, +and mooring the ships, took up the whole day. + +We were no sooner at anchor at the entrance of the harbour, than the +natives crowded round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. The latter +they exchanged for nails and beads; the former we refused as yet, having +already as many on board as we could manage. Several we were, however, +obliged to take, as many of the principal people brought off little pigs, +pepper, or eavoa-root, and young plantain trees, and handed them into the +ship, or put them into the boats along-side, whether we would or no; for if +we refused to take them on board, they would throw them into the boats. In +this manner, did these good people welcome us to their country. + +I had forgot to mention, that Tupia was much enquired after at Huaheine; +but, at this place, every one asked about him, and the occasion of his +death; and, like true philosophers, were perfectly satisfied with the +answers we gave them. Indeed, as we had nothing but the truth to tell, the +story was the same, by whomsoever told. + +Next morning we paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the +isle, carrying with us the necessary presents. We went through no sort of +ceremony at landing, but were at once conducted to him. He was seated in +his own house, which stood near the water side, where he and his friends +received us with great cordiality. He expressed much satisfaction at seeing +me again, and desired that we might exchange names, which I accordingly +agreed to. I believe this is the strongest mark of friendship they can show +to a stranger. He enquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen, by name, who +were with me when I first visited the island. After we had made the chief +and his friends the necessary presents, we went on board with a hog, and +some fruit, received from him in return; and in the afternoon he gave me +another hog, still larger, without asking for the least acknowledgment. +Exchanges for fruit, &c. were mostly carried on alongside the ships. I +attempted to trade for these articles on shore, but did not succeed, as the +most of them were brought in canoes from distant parts, and carried +directly to the ships. + +After breakfast, on the 10th, Captain Furneaux and I paid the chief a +visit; and we were entertained by him with such a comedy, or dramatic +_heava_, as is generally acted in these isles. The music consisted of +three drums, the actors were seven men, and one woman, the chief's +daughter. The only entertaining part in the drama, was a theft committed by +a man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficiently +displayed the genius of the people in this vice. The theft is discovered +before the thief has time to carry off his prize; then a scuffle ensues +with those set to guard it, who, though four to two, are beat off the +stage, and the thief and his accomplices bear away their plunder in +triumph. I was very attentive to the whole of this part, being in full +expectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had before +been informed that _Teto_ (that is, the Thief) was to be acted, and +had understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good +_tiparahying_ (or beating), a punishment, we are told, they inflict on +such as are guilty of this crime. Be this as it may, strangers are +certainly excluded from the protection of this law; them they rob with +impunity, on every occasion that offers. After the play was over, we +returned on board to dinner; and in the cool of the evening took a walk on +shore, where we learnt from one of the natives, that nine small islands, +two of which were uninhabited, lay to the westward, at no great distance +from hence. + +On the 11th, early in the morning, I had a visit from Oreo and his son, a +youth about twelve years of age. The latter brought me a hog and some +fruit; for which I made him a present of an axe, and dressed him in a +shirt, and other things, which made him not a little proud of himself. +Having staid some hours, they went on shore; as I also did soon after, but +to another part. The chief hearing I was on shore, came to the place where +he found the boat, into which he put a hog and a quantity of fruit, without +saying a word to any body, and, with some of his friends, came on board, +and dined with us. After dinner I had a visit from Oo-oorou, the principal +chief of the isle. He was introduced to us by Oreo, and brought with him, +as a present, a large hog, for which I made him a handsome return. Oreo +employed himself in buying hogs for me (for we now began to take of them), +and he made such bargains as I had reason to be satisfied with. At length +they all took leave, after making me promise to visit them next morning; +which I accordingly did, in company with several of the officers and +gentlemen. Oreo ordered an _heava_ to be acted for our entertainment, +in which two very pretty young women were the actresses. This _heava_ +was somewhat different from the one I saw before, and not so entertaining. +Oreo, after it was over, accompanied us on board, together with two of his +friends. + +The following day was spent much in the same manner; and early in the +morning of the 14th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the Resolution's launch, +and Adventure's cutter, to Otaha, to procure an additional supply of +bananoes, and plantains, for a sea-store; for we could get little more of +these articles at Ulietea than were sufficient for present consumption. +Oreo, and some of his friends, paid me a pretty early visit this morning. I +acquainted the chief, that I would dine with him, and desired he would +order two pigs to be dressed after their manner, which he accordingly did, +and, about one o'clock, I, and the officers and gentlemen of both ships, +went to partake of them. When we came to the chiefs house, we found the +cloth laid; that is, green leaves were strewed thick on the floor. Round +them we seated ourselves; presently one of the pigs came over my head souce +upon the leaves, and immediately after the other; both so hot as hardly to +be touched. The table was garnished round with hot bread-fruit and +plantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for drink. Each man being +ready, with his knife in his hand, we turned to without ceremony; and it +must be owned, in favour of their cookery, that victuals were never +cleaner, nor better dressed. For, though the pigs were served up whole, and +one weighed between fifty and sixty pounds, and the other about half as +much, yet all the parts were equally well done, and eat much sweeter than +if dressed in any of our methods. The chief and his son, and some other of +his male friends, eat with us, and pieces were handed to others who sat +behind: For we had a vast crowd about us; so that it might be truly said we +dined in public. The chief never failed to drink his glass of Madeira +whenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when he +dined with us, without ever being once affected by it. As soon as we had +dined, the boat's crew took the remainder; and by them, and those about +them, the whole was consumed. When we rose up, many of the common people +rushed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which they +searched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe, that though +there is plenty of pork at these isles, but little falls to their share. +Some of our gentlemen being present when these pigs were killed and +dressed, observed the chief to divide the entrails, lard, &c. into ten or +twelve equal parts, and serve it out to certain people. Several daily +attended the ships, and assisted the butchers, for the sake of the entrails +of the hogs we killed. Probably little else falls to the share of the +common people. It however must be owned, that they are exceedingly careful +of every kind of provision, and waste nothing that can be eaten by man; +flesh and fish especially. + +In the afternoon we were entertained with a play. Plays, indeed, had been +acted almost every day since we had been here, either to entertain +_us_, or for their own amusement, or perhaps both. + +Next morning produced some circumstances which fully prove the timorous +disposition of these people. We were surprised to find that none of them +came off to the ships as usual. Two men belonging to the Adventure having +staid on shore all night, contrary to orders, my first conjectures were, +that the natives had stripped them, and were now afraid to come near us, +lest we should take some step to revenge the insult; but in order to be +better satisfied, Captain Furneaux and I went ashore to Oreo's house, which +we found quite empty; he and all his family gone, and the whole +neighbourhood, in a manner, quite deserted. The two men belonging to the +Adventure made their appearance, and informed us that they had been very +civilly treated by the natives, but could give no account of the cause of +their precipitate flight. All that we could learn from the very few that +durst come near us, was, that severals were killed, others wounded by our +guns, pointing out to us where the balls went in and out of the body, &c. +This relation gave me a good deal of uneasiness for the safety of our +people gone to Otaha, fearing that some disturbance had happened at that +island. However, in order to be better informed, I determined, if possible, +to see the chief himself. Accordingly we embarked in our boat, having one +of the natives with us, and rowed along shore to the northward, the way we +were told he was gone. We soon came in sight of the canoe in which he was; +but before we could come up with her he had got on shore. We landed +presently after, and found he was gone still farther. An immense crowd, +however, waited our landing, who entreated me to follow him. One man +offered to carry me on his back; but the whole story appearing rather more +mysterious than ever, and being all unarmed, I did not choose to separate +myself from the boat, but embarked again, and rowed after him. We soon came +before the place where our guide told us he was, and put in the boat +accordingly. It grounded at some distance from the shore, where we were met +by a venerable old lady, wife to the chief. She threw herself into my arms, +and wept bitterly, insomuch that it was not possible to get one plain word +from her. With this old lady in my hand I went ashore, contrary to the +advice of my young man from Otaheite, who was more afraid than any of us, +probably believing every word the people had told us. I found the chief +seated under the shade of a house, before which was a large area, and +surrounded by a vast number of people. As soon as I came to him, he threw +his arms about me, and burst into tears, in which he was accompanied by all +the women, and some of the men, so that the lamentation became general; +astonishment alone kept me from joining with them. It was some time before +I could get a word from any one; at last, all my enquiries gave me no other +information, than that they were alarmed on account of our boats being +absent, thinking that the people in them had deserted from us, and that I +should take some violent means to recover them. For when we assured them +that the boats would return back, they seemed cheerful and satisfied, and +to a man, denied that any one was hurt, either of their own or our people, +and so it afterwards proved. Nor did it appear that there was the least +foundation for these alarms, nor could we ever find out by what means this +general consternation first took its rise. After a stay of about an hour, I +returned on board, three of the natives coming along with us, who +proclaimed the peace as we rowed along shore to all they saw. + +Thus matters were again restored to their former footing, and the next +morning they came off to the ships as usual. After breakfast, Captain +Furneaux and I paid the chief a visit; we found him at his own house +perfectly easy, insomuch that he and some of his friends came on board and +dined with us. I was now told that my Otaheitean young man, Poreo, had +taken a resolution to leave me. I have just mentioned _before_, his +being with us when I followed Oreo, and his advising me not to go on shore. +He was so much afraid at that time, that he remained in the boat till he +heard all matters were reconciled; then he came out, and presently after, +met with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendship. Having my +powder-horn in keeping, he came and gave it to one of my people who was by +me, and then went away with her, and I saw him no more. + +In the afternoon, our boats returned from Otaha, pretty well laden with +plantains, an article we were most in want of. They made the circuit of the +island, conducted by one of the Earees, whose name was Boba, and were +hospitably entertained by the people, who provided them with victuals and +lodging. The first night, they were entertained with a play, the second, +their repose was disturbed by the natives stealing their military chest. +This put them on making reprisals, by which means they recovered the most +of what they had lost. + +Having now got on board a large supply of refreshments, I determined to put +to sea the next morning, and made the same known to the chief, who promised +to see me again before we departed. At four o'clock we began to unmoor; and +as soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and some of his friends, came +aboard. Many canoes also came off with fruit and hogs, the latter they even +begged of us to take from them, calling out _Tiyo boa atoi_.--I am +your friend, take my hog, and give me an axe. But our decks were already +so full of them, that we could hardly move, having, on board both ships, +between three and four hundred. By the increase of our stock, together with +what we had salted and consumed, I judge that we got at this island 400 or +upwards; many, indeed, were only roasters, others again weighed one hundred +pounds, or upwards, but the general run was from forty to sixty. It is not +easy to say how many we might have got, could we have found room for all +that were offered us. + +The chief, and his friends, did not leave me till we were under sail, and +before he went away, pressed me much to know, if I would not return, and +when? Questions which were daily put to me by many of these islanders. My +Otaheitean youth's leaving me proved of no consequence, as many young men +of this island voluntarily offered to come away with us. I thought proper +to take on board one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years of age, +named Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great +Opoony, chief of that island. Soon after we were out of the harbour, and +had made sail, we observed a canoe following us, conducted by two men; +whereupon I brought-to, and they presently came alongside, having brought +me a present of roasted fruit and roots from Oreo. I made them a proper +return before I dismissed them, and then set sail to the west, with the +Adventure in company. + +CHAPTER XIV. + +_An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present State of the +Islands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs of the +Inhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected._ + +1773 September + +I shall now give some farther account of these islands; for, although I +have been pretty minute in relating the daily transactions, some things, +which are rather interesting, have been omitted. + +Soon after our arrival at Otaheite, we were informed that a ship about the +size of the Resolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour, near the S.E. end +of the island, where she remained about three weeks; and had been gone +about three months before we arrived. We were told that four of the natives +were gone away with her, whose names were Debedebea, Paoodou, Tanadooee, +and Opahiah. At this time, we conjectured this was a French ship, but, on +our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, we learnt she was a Spaniard, which +had been sent out from America. The Otaheiteans complained of a disease +communicated to them by the people in this ship, which they said affected +the head, throat, and stomach, and at length killed them. They seemed to +dread it much, and were continually enquiring if we had it. This ship they +distinguished by the name of _Pahai no Pep-pe_ (ship of Peppe), and +called the disease _Apa no Pep-pe_, just as they call the venereal +disease _Apa no Pretane_ (English disease), though they, to a man, say +it was brought to the isle by M. de Bougainville; but I have already +observed that they thought M. de Bougainville came from _Pretane_, as +well as every other ship which has touched at the isle. + +Were it not for this assertion of the natives, and none of Captain Wallis's +people being affected with the venereal disease, either while they were at +Otaheite, or after they left it, I should have concluded that long before +these islanders were visited by Europeans, this or some disease which is +near akin to it, had existed amongst them. For I have heard them speak of +people dying of a disorder which we interpreted to be the pox before that +period. But, be this as it will, it is now far less common amongst them, +than it was in the year 1769, when I first visited these isles. They say +they can cure it, and so it fully appears, for, notwithstanding most of my +people had made pretty free with the women, very few of them were +afterwards affected with the disorder; and those who were, had it in so +slight a manner, that it is easily removed. But among the natives, whenever +it turns to a pox, they tell us it is incurable. Some of our people pretend +to have seen some of them who had this last disorder in a high degree, but +the surgeon, who made it his business to enquire, could never satisfy +himself in this point. These people are, and were, before Europeans visited +them, very subject to scrophulous diseases, so that a seaman might easily +mistake one disorder for another. + +The island of Otaheite, which, in the years 1767 and 1768, as it were, +swarmed with hogs and fowls, was now so ill supplied with these animals, +that hardly any thing could induce the owners to part with them. The few +they had at this time, among them, seemed to be at the disposal of the +kings. For while we lay at Oaitipiha Bay, in the kingdom of Tiarrabou, or +lesser peninsula, every hog or fowl we saw we were told belonged to +Waheatoua; and all we saw in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greater +peninsula, belonged to Otoo. During the seventeen days we were at this +island, we got but twenty-four hogs, the half of which came from the two +kings themselves; and, I believe, the other half were sold us by their +permission or order. We were, however, abundantly supplied with all the +fruits the island produces, except bread-fruit, which was not in season +either at this or the other isles. Cocoa-nuts and plantains were what we +got the most of; the latter, together with a few yams and other roots, were +to us a succedaneum for bread. At Otaheite we got great plenty of apples, +and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them _Aheeva_. This fruit was +common to all the isles; but apples we got only at Otaheite, and found them +of infinite use to the scorbutic people. Of all the seeds that have been +brought to those islands by Europeans, none have succeeded but pumpkins; +and these they do not like, which is not to be wondered at. + +The scarcity of hogs at Otaheite may be owing to two causes; first, to the +number which have been consumed, and carried off by the shipping which have +touched here of late years; and, secondly, to the frequent wars between the +two kingdoms. We know of two since the year 1767; at present a peace +subsists between them, though they do not seem to entertain much friendship +for each other. I never could learn the cause of the late war, nor who got +the better in the conflict. In the battle, which put an end to the dispute, +many were killed on both sides. On the part of Opoureonu, fell Toutaha, and +several other chiefs, who were mentioned to me by name. Toutaha lies +interred in the family Marai at Oparree; and his mother, and several other +women who were of his household, are now taken care of by Otoo, the +reigning prince--a man who, at first, did not appear to us to much +advantage. I know but little of Waheatoua of Tiarrabou. This prince, who is +not above twenty years of age, appeared with all the gravity of a man of +fifty. His subjects do not uncover before him, or pay him any outward +obeisance as is done to Otoo; nevertheless, they seem to shew him full as +much respect, and he appeared in rather more state. He was attended by a +few middle-aged, or elderly men, who seemed to be his counsellors. This is +what appeared to me to be the then state of Otaheite. The other islands, +that is, Huaheine, Ulietea, and Otaha, were in a more flourishing state +than they were when I was there before. Since that time, they had enjoyed +the blessing of peace; the people seemed to be as happy as any under +heaven; and well they may, for they possess not only the necessaries, but +many of the luxuries of life in the greatest profusion; and my young man +told me that hogs, fowls, and fruits, are in equal plenty at Bola-bola, a +thing which Tupia would never allow. To clear up this seeming +contradiction, I must observe, that the one was prejudiced against, and the +other in favour of, this isle. + +The produce of the islands, the manners and customs of the natives, &c. +having been treated at large in the narrative of my former voyage, it will +be unnecessary to take notice of these subjects in this, unless where I can +add new matter, or clear up any mistakes which may have been committed. + +As I had some reason to believe, that amongst their religious customs, +human sacrifices were sometimes considered as necessary, I went one day to +a _Marai_ in Matavai, in company with Captain Furneaux; having with +us, as I had upon all other occasions, one of my men who spoke their +language tolerably well, and several of the natives, one of whom appeared +to be an intelligent sensible man. In the _Marai_ was a +_Tupapow_, on which lay a corpse and some viands; so that every thing +promised success to my enquiries. I began with asking questions relating to +the several objects before me, if the plantains, &c. were for the +_Eatua_? If they sacrificed to the _Eatua_, hogs, dogs, fowls, +&c.? To all of which he answered in the affirmative. I then asked, If they +sacrificed men to the _Eatua_? He answered _Taata eno_; that is, +bad men they did, first _Tipperahy_, or beating them till they were +dead. I then asked him, If good men were put to death in this manner? His +answer was No, only _Taata eno_. I asked him if any _Earees_ +were? He said, they had hogs to give to the _Eatua_, and again +repeated _Taatu eno_. I next asked, If _Towtows_, that is, +servants or slaves, who had no hogs, dogs, or fowls, but yet were good men, +if they were sacrificed to the _Eatua_? His answer was No, only bad +men. I asked him several more questions, and all his answers seemed to tend +to this one point, that men for certain crimes were condemned to be +sacrificed to the gods, provided they had not wherewithal to redeem +themselves. This, I think, implies, that on some occasions, human +sacrifices are considered as necessary, particularly when they take such +men as have, by the laws of their country, forfeited their lives, and have +nothing to redeem them; and such will generally be found among the lower +class of people. + +The man of whom I made these enquiries, as well as some others, took some +pains to explain the whole of this custom to us; but we were not masters +enough of their language to understand them. I have since learnt from Omai, +that they offer human sacrifices to the Supreme Being. According to his +account, what men shall be so sacrificed, depends on the caprice of the +high priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn occasion, retires +alone into the house of God, and stays there some time. When he comes out, +he informs them, that he has seen and conversed with their great God (the +high priest alone having that privilege), and that he has asked for a human +sacrifice, and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a man +present, whom, most probably, the priest has an antipathy against. He is +immediately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resentment, who, +no doubt (if necessary), has address enough to persuade the people that he +was a bad man. If I except their funeral ceremonies, all the knowledge that +has been obtained of their religion, has been from information: And as +their language is but imperfectly understood, even by those who pretend to +the greatest knowledge of it, very little on this head is yet known with +certainty. + +The liquor which they make from the plant called _Ava ava_, is +expressed from the root, and not from the leaves, as mentioned in the +narrative of my former voyage. The manner of preparing this liquor is as +simple as it is disgusting to an European. It is thus: Several people take +some of the root, and chew it till it is soft and pulpy, then they spit it +out into a platter or other vessel, every one into the same; when a +sufficient quantity is chewed, more or less water is put to it, according +as it is to be strong or weak; the juice, thus diluted, is strained through +some fibrous stuff like fine shavings; after which it is fit for drinking, +and this is always done immediately. It has a pepperish taste, drinks flat, +and rather insipid. But, though it is intoxicating I only saw one instance +where it had that effect, as they generally drink it with great moderation, +and but little at a time. Sometimes they chew this root in their mouths, +as Europeans do tobacco, and swallow their spittle; and sometimes I have +seen them eat it wholly. + +At Ulietea they cultivate great quantities of this plant. At Otaheite but +very little. I believe there are but few islands in this sea, that do not +produce more or less of it; and the natives apply it to the same use, as +appears by Le Mair's account of Horn Island, in which he speaks of the +natives making a liquor from a plant in the same manner as above mentioned. + +Great injustice has been done the women of Otaheite, and the Society isles, +by those who have represented them, without exception, as ready to grant +the last favour to any man who will come up to their price. But this is by +no means the case; the favours of married women, and also the unmarried of +the better sort, are as difficult to be obtained here, as in any other +country whatever. Neither can the charge be understood indiscriminately of +the unmarried of the lower class, for many of these admit of no such +familiarities. That there are prostitutes here, as well as in other +countries, is very true, perhaps more in proportion, and such were those +who came on board the ships to our people, and frequented the post we had +on shore. By seeing these mix indiscriminately with those of a different +turn, even of the first rank, one is at first inclined to think that they +are all disposed the same way, and that the only difference is in the +price. But the truth is, the woman who becomes a prostitute does not seem, +in their opinion, to have committed a crime of so deep a dye as to exclude +her from the esteem and society of the community in general. On the whole, +a stranger who visits England might, with equal justice, draw the +characters of the women there, from those which he might meet with on board +the ships in one of the naval ports, or in the purlieus of Covent-Garden +and Drury-Lane. I must however allow, that they are all completely versed +in the art of coquetry, and that very few of them fix any bounds to their +conversation. It is therefore no wonder that they have obtained the +character of libertines. + +To what hath been said of the geography of these isles, in the narrative of +my former voyage, I shall now only add, that we found the latitude of +Oaiti-piha Bay, in Otaheite, to be 17 deg. 43' 26" south, and the longitude 0 deg. +21' 25" 1/2 east from Point Venus; or 149 deg. 13' 24" west from Greenwich. The +difference both of latitude and longitude, between Point Venus and Oaiti- +piha, is greater than I supposed it to be, when I made the circuit of the +island in 1769, by two miles, and 4-3/4 miles respectively. It is therefore +highly probable, that the whole island is of a greater extent than I, at +that time, estimated it to be. The astronomers set up their observatory, +and made their observations on Point Venus, the latitude of which they +found to be 17 deg. 29' 13" south. This differs but two seconds from that which +Mr Green and I found; and its longitude, viz. 149 deg. 34' 49" 1/2 west, for +any thing that is yet known to the contrary, is as exact. + +Mr Kendal's watch was found to be gaining on mean time 8" 863 per day, +which is only 0" 142 less than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, consequently its +error in longitude was trifling. + +A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD. + +BOOK II. + +FROM OUR DEPARTURE FROM THE SOCIETY ISLES, TO OUR RETURN TO AND LEAVING +THEM THE SECOND TIME. + +CHAPTER I. + +_Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account of the +Discovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened at +Middleburg._ + +1773 September + +After leaving Ulietea, as before mentioned, I steered to the west, +inclining to the south, to get clear of the tracts of former navigators, +and to get into the latitude of the islands of Middleburgh and Amsterdam; +for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch there if I +found it convenient, before I hauled up for New Zealand. I generally lay-to +every night, lest we might pass any land in the dark. Part of the 21st and +22d the wind blew from N.W., attended with thunder, lightning, and rain, +having a large swell from S.S.E. and S., which kept up for several days,-- +an indication that no land was near us in that direction. + +On the 23d, at ten o'clock in the morning, land was seen from the top-mast +head, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. by W. to S.W. by S. We +hauled up for it with the wind at S.E., and found it to consist of two or +three small islets, connected together by breakers like most of the low +isles in the sea, lying in a triangular form, and about six leagues in +circuit. They were clothed with wood, among which were many cocoa-nut +trees. We saw no people, or signs of inhabitants; and had reason to think +there were none. The situation of this isle, which is in the latitude of +19 deg. 18' S., longitude 158 deg. 54' W., is not very different from that assigned +by Mr Dalrymple to La Dezena. But as this is a point not easily determined, +I named it Hervey's Island, in honour of the Honourable Captain Hervey of +the navy, one of the lords of the Admiralty, and afterwards Earl of +Bristol. + +As the landing on this isle, if practicable, would have caused a delay +which I could ill spare at this time, we resumed our course to the west; +and on the 25th we again began to use our sea-biscuits, the fruit which had +served as a succedaneum being all consumed; but our stock of fresh pork +still continued, each man having as much every day as was needful. In our +route to the west we now and then saw men-of-war and tropic birds, and a +small sea-bird, which is seldom seen but near the shores of the isles; we, +therefore, conjectured that we had passed some land at no great distance. +As we advanced to the west, the variation of the compass gradually +increased, so that on the 29th, being in the latitude of 21 deg. 26' S., +longitude 170 deg. 40' W., it was 10 deg. 45' E. + +1773 October + +At two o'clock p.m. on the 1st of October, we made the island of +Middleburg, bearing W.S.W.; at six o'clock it extended from S.W. by W. to +N.W., distant four leagues, at which time another land was seen in the +direction of N.N.W. The wind being at S.S.E., I hauled to the south, in +order to get round the south end of the island before the morning; but at +eight o'clock a small island was seen lying off it, and not knowing but +they might be connected by a reef, the extent of which we must be ignorant +of, I resolved to spend the night where we were. At day-break the next +morning, we bore up for the S.W. side of Middleburg, passing between it and +the little isle above mentioned, where we found a clear channel two miles +broad. + +After ranging the S.W. side of the greater isle, to about two-thirds of its +length, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, without seeing the +least prospect of either anchorage or landing-place, we bore away for +Amsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely turned our sails before +we observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another aspect, seeming to +offer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled the wind, and plied +in under the island. In the mean time, two canoes, each conducted by two or +three men, came boldly alongside; and some of them entered the ship without +hesitation. This mark of confidence gave me a good opinion of these +islanders, and determined me to visit them, if possible. After making a +few trips, we found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five fathoms +water, and gravel bottom, at three cables' length from the shore. The +highest land on the island bore S.E. by E.; the north point N.E. 1/2 E., +and the west S. by W. 1/2 W., and the island of Amsterdam extending from N. +by W. 1/2 W. to N.W. 1/2 W. We had scarcely got to an anchor before we were +surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who had brought with +them cloth, and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c. +Several came on board; among them was one whom, by the authority he seemed +to have over the others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him a +present of a hatchet, spike-nails, and several other articles, with which +he was highly pleased. Thus I obtained the friendship of this chief, whose +name was Tioony. + +Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony, +who conducted us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of +the ships, where landing was extremely easy, and the boats secure against +the surf. Here we found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed us on +shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick, or +any other weapon in their hands; an indubitable sign of their pacific +intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c. +to exchange for nails, that it was some time before we could get room to +land. They seemed to be more desirous to give than receive; for many who +could not get near the boats, threw into them, over the others heads, whole +bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking, or waiting for any +thing in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right and +left, and make room for us to land. He then conducted us up to his +house, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the +head of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The +situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at +anchor; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some of +the richest productions of Nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which +we were seated, and the people seated themselves in a circle round us on +the outside. Having the bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played; and +in return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which they +did with a very good grace; and having made each of them a present, this +immediately set all the women in the circle a-singing. Their songs were +musical and harmonious, and nowise harsh or disagreeable. After sitting +here some time, we were, at our own request, conducted into one of the +adjoining plantations, where the chief had another house, into which we +were introduced. Bananoes and cocoa-nuts were set before us to eat, and a +bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of _Eava_ for us +to drink. Pieces of the root were first offered us to chew; but as we +excused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed by +others. When sufficiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl; then +mixed with water, in the manner already related; and as soon as it was +properly strained for drinking, they made cups, by folding of green leaves, +which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of these +filled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it; the manner of +brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was, +however; soon emptied of its contents, of which both men and women partook. +I observed that they never filled the same cup twice; nor did two persons +drink out of the same; each had a fresh cup and fresh liquor. + +This house was situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an area +before it on which we were seated. The whole was planted round with fruit +and other trees, whose spreading branches afforded an agreeable shade, and +whose fragrance diffused a pleasing odour through the air. + +Before we had well viewed the plantation it was noon, and we returned on +board to dinner, with the chief in our company. He sat at table but eat +nothing, which, as we had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordinary. +After dinner we landed again, and were received by the crowd as before; Mr +Forster with his botanical party, and some of the officers and gentlemen, +walked into the country. Captain Furneaux and myself were conducted to +the chief's house, where fruit and some greens, which had been stewed, were +set before us to eat. As we had but just dined, it cannot be supposed we +eat much; but Oedidee, and Omai, the man on board the Adventure, did honour +to the feast. After this we signified our desire of seeing the country. +Tioony very readily assented, and conducted us through several plantations, +which were laid out with great judgment, and inclosed with very neat fences +made of reeds. They were all in very good order, and well planted with +various fruit-trees, roots, &c. The chief took some pains to let us know +the most of them belonged to himself. Near some of the houses, and in the +lanes that divided the plantations, were running about some hogs and very +large fowls, which were the only domestic animals we saw; and these they +did not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day, +offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning, which determined +me to leave this island, and to visit that of Amsterdam. + +The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country, +and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with +each other in doing what they thought would give us pleasure. The ships +were crowded with people the whole day, trafficking with those on board, in +which the greatest good order was observed; and I was sorry that the season +of the year would not admit of my making a longer stay with them. Early the +nest morning, while the ships were getting under sail, I went on shore with +Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to take leave of the chief. He met us at +the landing-place, and would have conducted us to his house, had we not +excused ourselves. We therefore were seated on the grass, where we spent +about half an hour in the midst of a vast crowd of people. After making the +chief a present, consisting of various articles, and an assortment of +garden-seeds, I gave him to understand that we were going away, at which he +seemed not at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, in +order to accompany us on board; but seeing the Resolution under sail, he +called to a canoe to put alongside, into which he and his friends went, and +returned on shore. While he remained in our boat, he continued to exchange +fish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a manner wholly to +himself; but, when on shore, I never saw him make the least exchange. + +CHAPTER II. + +_The Arrival of the Ships at Amsterdam; a Description of a Place of +Worship; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while we remained +at that Island._ + +1773 October + +As soon as I was on board, we made sail down to Amsterdam. The people of +this isle were so little afraid of us, that some met us in three canoes +about midway between the two isles. They used their utmost efforts to get +on board, but without effect, as we did not shorten sail for them, and the +rope which we gave them broke. They then attempted to board the Adventure, +and met with the same disappointment. We ran along the S.W. coast of +Amsterdam at half a mile from shore, on which the sea broke in a great +surf. We had an opportunity, by the help of our glasses, to view the face +of the island, every part of which seemed to be laid out in plantations. We +observed the natives running along the shore, displaying small white flags, +which we took for ensigns of peace, and answered them by hoisting a St +George's ensign. Three men belonging to Middleburg, who, by some means or +other, had been left on board the Adventure, now quitted her, and swam to +the shore; not knowing that we intended to stop at this isle, and having no +inclination, as may be supposed, to go away with us. + +As soon as we opened the west side of the isle, we were met by several +canoes, each conducted by three or four men. They came boldly alongside, +presented us with some _Eava_ root, and then came on board without +farther ceremony, inviting us, by all the friendly signs they could make, +to go to their island, and pointing to the place where we should anchor; at +least we so understood them. After a few boards, we anchored in Van +Diemen's Road, in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a cable's length +from the breakers, which line the coast. We carried out the coasting-anchor +and cable to seaward, to keep the ship from tailing on the rocks, in case +of a shift of wind or a calm. This last anchor lay in forty-seven fathoms +water; so steep was the bank on which we anchored. By this time we were +crowded with people; some came off in canoes, and others swam; but, like +those of the other isle, brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, &c., +for which the seamen only bartered away their clothes. As it was probable +they would soon feel the effects of this kind of traffic, with a view to +put a stop to it, and to obtain the necessary refreshments, I gave orders +that no sort of curiosities should be purchased by any person whatever. + +The good effect of this order was found in the morning. For, when the +natives saw we would purchase nothing but eatables, they brought off +bananoes and cocoa-nuts in abundance, some fowls and pigs; all of which +they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth: even old rags of any +sort, was enough for a pig, or a fowl. + +Matters being thus established, and proper persons appointed to trade under +the direction of the officers, to prevent disputes, after breakfast I +landed, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of the +officers; having along with us a chief, or person of some note, whose name +was Attago, who had attached himself to me, from the first moment of his +coming on board, which was before we anchored. I know not how he came to +discover that I was the commander; but, certain it is, he was not long on +deck before he singled me out from all the gentlemen, making me a present +of some cloth, and other things he had about him; and as a greater +testimony of friendship, we now exchanged names; a custom which is +practised at Otaheite, and the Society Isles. We were lucky, or rather we +may thank the natives, for having anchored before a narrow creek in the +rocks which line the shore. To this creek we were conducted by my friend +Attago; and there we landed dry on the beach, and within the breakers, in +the face of a vast crowd of people, who received us in the same friendly +manner that those of Middleburg had done. + +As soon as we were landed; all the gentlemen set out into the country, +accompanied by some of the natives. But the most of them remained with +Captain Furneaux and me, who amused ourselves some time distributing +presents amongst them; especially to such as Attago pointed out, which were +not many, but who I afterwards found, were of superior rank to himself. At +this time, however, he seemed to be the principal person, and to be obeyed +as such. After we had spent some time on the beach, as we complained of the +heat, Attago immediately conducted and seated us under the shade of a tree, +ordering the people to form a circle round us. This they did, and never +once attempted to push themselves upon us like the Otaheiteans. + +After sitting here some time, and distributing some presents to those about +us, we signified our desire to see the country. The chief immediately took +the hint, and conducted us along a lane that led to an open green, on the +one side of which was a house of worship built on a mount that had been +raised by the hand of man, about sixteen or eighteen feet above the common +level. It had an oblong figure, and was inclosed by a wall or parapet of +stone, about three feet in height. From this wall the mount rose with a +gentle slope, and was covered with a green turf. On the top of it stood the +house, which had the same figure as the mount, about twenty feet in length, +and fourteen or sixteen broad. As soon as we came before the place, every +one seated himself on the green, about fifty or sixty yards from the front +of the house. Presently came three elderly men, who seated themselves +between us and it, and began a speech, which I understood to be a prayer, +it being wholly directed to the house. This lasted about ten minutes; and +then the priests, for such I took them to be, came and sat down along with +us, when we made them presents of such things as were about us. Having then +made signs to them that we wanted to view the premises, my friend Attago +immediately got up, and going with us, without showing the least +backwardness, gave us full liberty to examine every part of it. + +In the front were two stone steps leading to the top of the wall; from this +the ascent to the house was easy, round which was a fine gravel walk. The +house was built, in all respects, like to their common dwelling-houses; +that is, with posts and rafters, and covered with palm thatch. The eaves +came down within about three feet of the ground, which space was filled up +with strong matting made of palm leaves, as a wall. The floor of the house +was laid with fine gravel; except, in the middle, where there was an oblong +square of blue pebbles, raised about six inches higher than the floor. At +one corner of the house stood an image rudely carved in wood, and on one +side lay another; each about two feet in length. I, who had no intention to +offend either them or their gods, did not so much as touch them, but asked +Attago, as well as I could, if they were _Eatuas_, or gods. Whether he +understood me or no, I cannot say; but he immediately turned them over and +over, in as rough a manner as he would have done any other log of wood, +which convinced me that they were not there as representatives of the +Divinity. I was curious to know if the dead were interred there, and asked +Attago several questions relative thereto; but I was not sure that he +understood me, at least I did not understand the answers he made well +enough to satisfy my enquiries. For the reader must know, that at our first +coming among these people, we hardly could understand a word they said. +Even my Otaheitean youth, and the man on board the Adventure, were equally +at a loss; but more of this by and by. Before we quitted the house we +thought it necessary to make an offering at the altar. Accordingly we laid +down upon the blue pebbles, some medals, nails, and several other things, +which we had no sooner done than my friend Attago took them up, and put +them in his pocket. The stones with which the walls were made that inclosed +this mount, were some of them nine or ten feet by four, and about six +inches thick. It is difficult to conceive how they can cut such stones out +of the coral rocks. + +This mount stood in a kind of grove open only on the side which fronted the +high road, and the green on which the people were seated. At this green or +open place, was a junction of five roads, two or three of which appeared to +be very public ones. The groves were composed of several sorts of trees. +Among others was the _Etoa_ tree, as it is called at Otaheite, of +which are made clubs, &c. and a kind of low palm, which is very common in +the northern parts of New Holland. + +After we had done examining this place of worship, which in their language +is called _A-fia-tou-ca_, we desired to return; but, instead of +conducting us to the water-side as we expected, they struck into a road +leading into the country. This road, which was about sixteen feet broad, +and as level as a bowling-green, seemed to be a very public one; there +being many other roads from different parts, leading into it, all inclosed +on each side, with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorching +sun by fruit trees, I thought I was transported into the most fertile +plains in Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground; the roads occupied +no more space than was absolutely necessary; the fences did not take up +above four inches each; and even this was not wholly lost, for in many were +planted some useful trees or plants. It was everywhere the same; change of +place altered not the scene. Nature, assisted by a little art, no where +appears in more splendour than at this isle. In these delightful walks we +met numbers of people; some travelling down to the ships with their burdens +of fruit; others returning back empty. They all gave us the road, by +turning either to the right or left, and sitting down or standing, with +their backs to the fences, till we had passed. + +At several of the cross-roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads, were +generally _Afiatoucas_, such as already described; with this +difference, the mounts were pallisadoed round, instead of a stone wall. At +length, after walking several miles, we came to one larger than common; +near to which was a large house belonging to an old chief, in our company. +At this house we were desired to stop, which we accordingly did, and were +treated with fruit, &c. + +We were no sooner seated in the house, than the eldest of the priests began +a speech or prayer, which was first directed to the _Afiatouca_, and +then to me, and alternately. When he addressed me, he paused at every +sentence, till I gave a nod of approbation. I, however, did not understand +one single word he said. At times, the old gentleman seemed to be at a loss +what to say, or perhaps his memory failed him; for, every now and then, he +was prompted by one of the other priests who sat by him. Both during this +prayer and the former one, the people were silent, but not attentive. At +this last place we made but a short stay. Our guides conducted us down to +our boat, and we returned with Attago to our ship to dinner. We had no +sooner got on board, than an old gentleman came alongside, who, I +understood from Attago, was some king or great man. He was, accordingly, +ushered on board; when I presented him with such things as he most valued +(being the only method to make him my friend,) and seated him at table to +dinner. We now saw that he was a man of consequence; for Attago would not +sit down and eat before him, but got to the other end of the table; and, as +the old chief was almost blind, he sat there, and eat with his back towards +him. After the old man had eaten a bit of fish, and drank two glasses of +wine, he returned ashore. As soon as Attago had seen him out of the ship, +he came and took his place at table, finished his dinner, and drank two +glasses of wine. When dinner was over, we all went ashore, where we found +the old chief, who presented me with a hog; and he and some others took a +walk with us into the country. + +Before we set out, I happened to go down with Attago to the landing-place, +and there found Mr Wales in a laughable, though distressed situation. The +boats which brought us on shore, not being able to get near the landing- +place for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off his shoes and +stockings to walk through, and as soon as he got on dry land, he put them +down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched +away by a person behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It was +impossible for him to follow the man barefooted over the sharp coral rocks, +which compose the shore, without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat +was put back to the ship, his companions had each made his way through the +crowd, and he left in this condition alone. Attago soon found out the +thief, recovered his shoes and stockings, and set him at liberty. Our route +into the country, was by the first-mentioned _Afiatouca_, before which +we again seated ourselves, but had no prayers, although the old priest was +with us. Our stay here was but short. The old chief, probably thinking that +we might want water on board, conducted us to a plantation hard by, and +shewed us a pool of fresh water, though we had not made the least enquiry +after any. I believe this to be the same that Tasman calls the _washing- +place_ for the king and his nobles. + +From hence we were conducted down to the shore of Maria Bay, or north-east +side of the isle; where, in a boat-house, was shewn to us a fine large +double canoe not yet launched. The old chief did not fail to make us +sensible it belonged to himself. Night now approaching, we took leave of +him, and returned on board, being conducted by Attago down to the water- +side. + +Mr Forster and his party spent the day in the country botanizing; and +several of the officers were out shooting. All of them were very civilly +treated by the natives. We had also a brisk trade for bananoes, cocoa-nuts, +yams, pigs, and fowls; all of which were procured for nails, and pieces of +cloth. A boat from each ship was employed in trading ashore, and bringing +off their cargoes as soon as they were laden, which was generally in a +short time. By this method we got cheaper, and with less trouble, a good +quantity of fruit, as well as other refreshments, from people who had no +canoes to carry them off to the ships. + +Pretty early in the morning on the 5th, my friend brought me a hog and some +fruit; for which I gave him a hatchet, a sheet, and some red cloth. The +pinnace was sent ashore to trade as usual, but soon returned. The officer +informed me that the natives were for taking every thing out of the boat, +and, in other respects, were very troublesome. The day before, they stole +the grapling at the time the boat was riding by it, and carried it off +undiscovered. I now judged it necessary to have a guard on shore, to +protect the boats and people whose business required their being there; and +accordingly sent the marines, under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe. +Soon after I went myself, with my friend Attago, Captain Furneaux, and +several of the gentlemen. At landing, we found the chief, who presented me +with a pig. After this, Captain Furneaux and I took a walk into the +country, with Mr Hodges, to make drawings of such places and things as were +most interesting. When this was done, we returned on board to dinner, with +my friend and two other chiefs; one of which sent a hog on board the +Adventure for Captain Furneaux, some hours before, without stipulating for +any return. The only instance of this kind. My friend took care to put me +in mind of the pig the old king gave me in the morning; for which I now +gave a chequed shirt and a piece of red cloth. I had tied them up for him +to carry ashore; but with this he was not satisfied. He wanted to have them +put on him, which was no sooner done, than he went on deck, and shewed +himself to all his countrymen. He had done the same thing in the morning +with the sheet I gave him. In the evening we all went on shore again, where +we found the old king, who took to himself every thing my friend and the +others had got. + +The different trading parties were so successful to-day as to procure for +both ships a tolerably good supply of refreshments. In consequence of +which, I, the next morning, gave every one leave to purchase what +curiosities and other things they pleased. After this, it was astonishing +to see with what eagerness every one caught at every thing he saw. It even +went so far as to become the ridicule of the natives, who offered pieces of +sticks and stones to exchange. One waggish boy took a piece of human +excrement on the end of a stick, and held it out to every one he met with. + +This day, a man got into the master's cabin, through the outside scuttle, +and took out some books and other things. He was discovered just as he was +getting out into his canoe, and pursued by one of our boats, which obliged +him to quit the canoe and take to the water. The people in the boat made +several attempts to lay hold of him; but he as often dived under the boat, +and at last having unshipped the rudder, which rendered her ungovernable, +by this means he got clear off. Some other very daring thefts were +committed at the landing-place. One fellow took a seaman's jacket out of +the boat, and carried it off, in spite of all that our people in her could +do. Till he was both pursued and fired at by them, he would not part with +it; nor would he have done it then, had not his landing been intercepted by +some of us who were on shore. The rest of the natives, who were very +numerous, took very little notice of the whole transaction; nor were they +the least alarmed when the man was fired at. + +My friend Attago having visited me again next morning, as usual, brought +with him a hog, and assisted me in purchasing several more. Afterwards we +went ashore; visited the old king, with whom we staid till noon, then +returned on board to dinner, with Attago, who never once left me. Intending +to sail next morning, I made up a present for the old king, and carried it +on shore in the evening. As soon as I landed, I was told by the officers +who were on shore, that a far greater man than any we had yet seen was come +to pay us a visit. Mr Pickersgill informed me that he had seen him in the +country, and found that he was a man of some consequence, by the +extraordinary respect paid him by the people. Some, when they approached +him, fell on their faces, and put their head between their feet; and no one +durst pass him without permission. Mr Pickersgill, and another of the +gentlemen, took hold of his arms, and conducted him down to the landing- +place, where I found him seated with so much sullen and stupid gravity, +that notwithstanding what had been told me, I really took him for an idiot, +whom the people, from some superstitious notions, were ready to worship. I +saluted and spoke to him; but he neither answered, nor took the least +notice of me; nor did he alter a single feature in his countenance. This +confirmed me in my opinion, and I was just going to leave him, when one of +the natives, an intelligent youth, undertook to undeceive me; which he did +in such a manner as left me no room to doubt that he was the king, or +principal man on the island. Accordingly I made him the present I intended +for the old chief, which consisted of a shirt, an axe, a piece of red +cloth, a looking-glass, some nails, medals, and beads. He received these +things, or rather suffered them to be put upon him, and laid down by him, +without losing a bit of his gravity, speaking one word, or turning his head +either to the right or left; sitting the whole time like a statue; in which +situation I left him to return on board, and he soon after retired. I had +not been long on board before word was brought me, that a quantity of +provisions had come from this chief. A boat was sent to bring it from the +shore; and it consisted of about twenty baskets of roasted bananoes, sour +bread, and yams, and a roasted pig of about twenty pounds weight. Mr +Edgcumbe and his party were just re-embarking, when these were brought to +the water-side, and the bearers said it was a present from the +_Areeke_, that is, the king of the island, to the _Areeke_ of the +ship. After this I was no longer to doubt the dignity of this sullen chief. + +Early in the morning of the 7th, while the ships were unmooring, I went +ashore with Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, in order to make some return +to the king, for his last night's present. We no sooner landed than we +found Attago, of whom we enquired for the king, whose name was Kohaghee- +too-Fallangou. He accordingly undertook to conduct us to him; but, whether +he mistook the man we wanted, or was ignorant where he was, I know not. +Certain it is, that he took us a wrong road, in which he had not gone far +before he stopped, and after some little conversation between him and +another man, we returned back, and presently after the king appeared, with +very few attendants. As soon as Attago saw him coming, he sat down under a +tree, and desired us to do the same. The king seated himself on a rising +ground, about twelve or fifteen yards from us: Here we sat facing one +another for some minutes. I waited for Attago to shew us the way; but +seeing he did not rise, Captain Furneaux and I got up, went and saluted the +king, and sat down by him. We then presented him with a white shirt, (which +we put on his back) a few yards of red cloth, a brass kettle, a saw, two +large spikes, three looking-glasses, a dozen of medals, and some strings of +beads. All this time he sat with the same sullen stupid gravity as the day +before; he even did not seem to see or know what we were about; his arms +appeared immoveable at his sides; he did not so much as raise them when we +put on the shirt. I told him, both by words and signs, that we were going +to leave his island; he scarcely made the least answer to this, or any +other thing we either said or did. We, therefore, got up and took leave; +but I yet remained near him, to observe his actions. Soon after, he entered +into conversation with Attago and an old woman, whom we took to be his +mother. I did not understand any part of the conversation; it however made +him laugh, in spite of his assumed gravity. I say assumed, because it +exceeded every thing of the kind I ever saw; and therefore think it could +not be his real disposition, unless he was an idiot indeed, as these +islanders, like all the others we had lately visited, have a great deal of +levity, and he was in the prime of life. At last he rose up, and retired +with his mother and two or three more. + +Attago conducted us to another circle, where were seated the aged chief and +several respectable old persons of both sexes; among whom was the priest, +who was generally in company with this chief. We observed, that this +reverend father could walk very well in a morning, but in the evening was +obliged to be led home by two people. By this we concluded, that the juice +of the pepper-root had the same effect upon him, that wine and other strong +liquors have on Europeans who drink a large portion of them. It is very +certain, that these old people seldom sat down without preparing a bowl of +this liquor, which is done in the same manner as at Ulietea. We however +must do them the justice to believe, that it was meant to treat us; +nevertheless, the greatest part, if not the whole, generally fell to their +share. I was not well prepared to take leave of this chief, having +exhausted almost all our store on the other. However, after rummaging our +pockets, and treasury-bag, which was always carried with me wherever I +went, we made up a tolerable present, both for him and his friends. This +old chief had an air of dignity about him that commanded respect, which the +other had not. He was grave, but not sullen; would crack a joke, talk on +indifferent subjects, and endeavour to understand us and be understood +himself. During this visit, the old priest repeated a short prayer or +speech, the purport of which we did not understand. Indeed he would +frequently, at other times, break out in prayer; but I never saw any +attention paid to him by any one present. After a stay of near two +hours, we took leave, and returned on board, with Attago and two or three +more friends, who staid and breakfasted with us; after which they were +dismissed, loaded with presents. + +Attago was very importunate with me to return again to this isle, and to +bring with me cloth, axes, nails, &c. &c. telling me that I should have +hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, in abundance. He particularly desired me, +more than once, to bring him such a suit of clothes as I had on, which was +my uniform. This good-natured islander was very serviceable to me, on many +occasions, during our short stay. He constantly came on board every morning +soon after it was light, and never quitted us till the evening. He was +always ready, either on board or on shore, to do me all the service in his +power: His fidelity was rewarded at a small expence, and I found my account +in having such a friend. + +In heaving in the coasting cable, it parted in the middle of its length, +being chafed by the rocks. By this accident we lost the other half, +together with the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water, without any +buoy to it. The best bower-cable suffered also by the rocks; by which a +judgment may be formed of this anchorage. At ten o'clock we got under sail; +but as our decks were much encumbered with fruit, &c. we kept plying under +the land till they were cleared. The supplies we got at this isle, were +about one hundred and fifty pigs, twice that number of fowls, as many +bananoes and cocoa-nuts as we could find room for, with a few yams; and had +our stay been longer, we no doubt might have got a great deal more. This in +some degree shews the fertility of the island, of which, together with the +neighbouring one of Middleburg, I shall now give a more particular account. + +CHAPTER III. + +_A Description of the Islands and their Produce; with the Cultivation, +Houses, Canoes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons, Customs, Government, +Religion, and Language of the Inhabitants._ + +1773 October + +These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman, in January, 1642-3, +and by him called Amsterdam and Middleburg. But the former is called by the +natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea-oo-wee. They are situated between +the latitude of 21 deg. 29' and 21 deg. 3' south, and between the longitude of 174 deg. +40' and 175 deg. 15' west, deduced from observations made on the spot. + +Middleburg, or Eaoowee, which is the southernmost, is about ten leagues in +circuit, and of a height sufficient to be seen twelve leagues. The skirts +of this isle are mostly taken up in the plantations; the S.W. and N.W. +sides especially. The interior parts are but little cultivated, though very +fit for cultivation. However, the want of it added greatly to the beauty of +the isle; for here are, agreeably dispersed, groves of cocoa-nut and other +trees, lawns covered with thick grass, here and there plantations, and +paths leading to every part of the island, in such beautiful disorder, as +greatly enlivens the prospect. + +The anchorage, which I named English Road, being the first who anchored +there, is on the N.W. side, in latitude 21 deg. 20' 30" south. The bank is a +coarse sand; it extends two miles from the land, and on it there is from +twenty to forty fathoms water. The small creek before it affords convenient +landing for boats at all times of the tide; which here, as well as at the +other islands, rises about four or five feet, and is high water on the full +and change days about seven o'clock. The island of Tongatabu is shaped +something like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof are seven +leagues each, and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the direction of +E.S.E. and W.N.W.; is nearly all of an equal height, rather low, not +exceeding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the sea. This island, and +also that of Eaoowee, is guarded from the sea by a reef of coral rocks, +extending out from the shore one hundred fathoms more or less. On this reef +the force of the sea is spent before it reaches the land or shore. Indeed, +this is in some measure the situation of all the tropical isles in this sea +that I have seen; and thus nature has effectually secured them from the +encroachments of the sea, though many of them are mere points when compared +to this vast ocean. Van Diemen's Road, where we anchored, is under the +northwest part of the island, between the most northern and western points. +There lies a reef of rocks without it, bearing N.W. by W., over which the +sea breaks continually. The bank does not extend more than three cables +length from the shore; without that, is an unfathomable depth. The loss of +an anchor, and the damage our cables sustained, are sufficient proofs that +the bottom is none of the best. + +On the east side of the north point of the island, (as Mr Gilbert, whom I +sent to survey the parts, informed me) is a very snug harbour, of one mile +or more in extent, wherein is seven, eight, and ten fathoms water, with a +clean sandy bottom. The channel, by which he went in and out, lies close to +the point, and has only three fathoms water; but he believes, that farther +to the N.E. is a channel with a much greater depth, which he had not time +to examine. Indeed, it would have taken up far more time than I could spare +to have surveyed these parts minutely; as there lies a number of small +islets and reefs of rocks along the N.E. side of the island, which seemed +to extend to the N.E. farther than the eye could reach. The island of +Amsterdam, or Tongatabu, is wholly laid out in plantations, in which are +planted some of the richest productions of nature, such as bread-fruit, +cocoa-nut trees, plantains, bananoes, shaddocks, yams, and some other +roots, sugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them +_Fighegea_, and at Otaheite _Ahuya_: In short, here are most of +the articles which the Society Islands produce, besides some which they +have not. Mr Forster tells me, that he not only found the same plants here +that are at Otaheite and the neighbouring isles, but several others which +are not to be met with there. And I probably have added to their stock of +vegetables, by leaving with them an assortment of garden seeds, pulse, &c. +Bread-fruit here, as well as at all the other isles, was not in season; nor +was this the time for roots and shaddocks. We got the latter only at +Middleburg. + +The produce and cultivation of this isle is the same as at Amsterdam; with +this difference, that a part only of the former is cultivated, whereas the +whole of the latter is. The lanes or roads necessary for travelling, are +laid out in so judicious a manner, as to open a free and easy communication +from one part of the island to the other. Here are no towns or villages; +most of the houses are built in the plantations, with no other order than +what conveniency requires; they are neatly constructed, but do not exceed +those in the other isles. The materials of which they are built are the +same; and some little variation in the disposition of the framing, is all +the difference in their construction. The floor is a little raised, and +covered with thick strong mats; the same sort of matting serves to inclose +them on the windward side, the other being open. They have little areas +before the most of them, which are generally planted round with trees, or +shrubs of ornament, whose fragrancy perfumes the very air in which they +breathe. Their household furniture consists of a few wooden platters, +cocoa-nut shells, and some neat wooden pillows shaped like four-footed +stools or forms. Their common clothing, with the addition of a mat, serves +them for bedding. We got from them two or three earthen vessels, which were +all we saw among them. One was in the shape of a bomb-shell, with two boles +in it, opposite each other; the others were like pipkins, containing about +five or six pints, and had been in use on the fire. I am of opinion they +are the manufacture of some other isle; for, if they were of their own, we +ought to have seen more of them. Nor am I to suppose they came from +Tasman's ships; the time is too long for brittle vessels like these to be +preserved. + +We saw no other domestic animals amongst them but hogs and fowls. The +former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea; but the +latter are far superior, being as large as any we have in Europe, and their +flesh equally good, if not better. We saw no dogs, and believe they have +none, as they were exceedingly desirous of those we had on board. My friend +Attago was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one from New Zealand, +the other from Ulietea. The name of a dog with them is _kooree_ or +_gooree_, the same as at New Zealand, which shews that they are not +wholly strangers to them. We saw no rats in these isles, nor any other wild +quadrupeds, except small lizards. The land birds are pigeons, turtle-doves, +parrots, parroquets, owls, bald couts with a blue plumage, a variety of +small birds, and large bats in abundance. The produce of the sea we know +but little of; it is reasonable to suppose, that the same sorts of fish are +found here as at the other isles. Their fishing instruments are the +same; that is, hooks made of mother-of-pearl, gigs with two, three, or more +prongs, and nets made of a very fine thread, with the meshes wrought +exactly like ours. But nothing can be a more demonstrative evidence of +their ingenuity than the construction and make of their canoes, which, in +point of neatness and workmanship, exceed every thing of this kind we saw +in this sea. They are built of several pieces sewed together with bandage, +in so neat a manner, that on the outside it is difficult to see the joints. +All the fastenings are on the inside, and pass through kants or ridges, +which are wrought on the edges and ends of the several boards which compose +the vessel, for that purpose. They are of two kinds, viz. double and +single. The single ones are from twenty to thirty feet long, and about +twenty or twenty-two inches broad in the middle; the stern terminates in a +point, and the head something like the point of a wedge. At each end is a +kind of deck, for about one-third part of the whole length, and open in the +middle. In some the middle of the deck is decorated with a row of white +shells, stuck on little pegs wrought out of the same piece which composes +it. These single canoes have all out-riggers, and are sometimes navigated +with sails, but more generally with paddles, the blades of which are short, +and broadest in the middle. The two vessels which compose the double canoe +are each about sixty or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the +middle, and each end terminates nearly in a point; so that the body or hull +differs a little in construction from the single canoe, but is put together +exactly in the same manner; these having a rising in the middle round the +open part, in the form of a long trough, which is made of boards, closely +fitted together, and well secured to the body of the vessel. Two such +vessels are fastened to, and parallel to each other, about six or seven +feet asunder, by strong cross beams, secured by bandages to the upper part +of the risings above mentioned. Over these beams, and others which are +supported by stanchions fixed on the bodies of the canoes, is laid a +boarded platform. All the parts which compose the double canoe, are made as +strong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be immerged +in water to the very platform, without being in danger of filling. Nor is +it possible, under any circumstance whatever, for them to sink, so long as +they hold together. Thus they are not only vessels of burden, but fit for +distant navigation. They are rigged with one mast, which steps upon the +platform, and can easily be raised or taken down; and are sailed with a +latteen-sail, or triangular one, extended by a long yard, which is a little +bent or crooked. The sail is made of mats; the rope they make use of is +exactly like ours, and some of it is four or five inch. On the platform is +built a little shed or hut, which screens the crew from the sun and +weather, and serves for other purposes. They also carry a moveable fire- +hearth, which is a square, but shallow trough of wood, filled with stones. +The way into the hold of the canoe is from off the platform, down a sort of +uncovered hatchway, in which they stand to bale out the water. I think +these vessels are navigated either end foremost, and that, in changing +tacks, they have only occasion to shift or jib round the sail; but of this +I was not certain, as I had not then seen any under sail, or with the mast +and sail an end, but what were a considerable distance from us. + +Their working tools are made of stone, bone, shells, &c. as at the other +islands. When we view the work which is performed with these tools, we are +struck with admiration at the ingenuity and patience of the workman. Their +knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach them +to prefer nails to beads, and such trifles; some, but very few, would +exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, +and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge-tool we could give +them; consequently they got but few axes from us but what were given as +presents. But if we include the nails which were given by the officers and +crews of both ships for curiosities, &c. with those given for refreshments, +they cannot have got less than five hundred weight, great and small. The +only piece of iron we saw among them was a small broad awl, which had been +made of a nail. + +Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans; and their colour is +that of a lightish copper, and more uniformly so than amongst the +inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles. Some of our gentlemen were +of opinion these were a much handsomer race; others maintained a contrary +opinion, of which number I was one. Be this as it may, they have a good +shape, and regular features, and are active, brisk, and lively. The women, +in particular, are the merriest creatures I ever met with, and will keep +chattering by one's side, without the least invitation, or considering +whether they are understood, provided one does but seem pleased with them. +In general they appeared to be modest; although there was no want of those +of a different stamp; and as we had yet some venereal complaints on board, +I took all possible care to prevent the disorder being communicated to +them. On most occasions they shewed a strong propensity to pilfering; in +which they were full as expert as the Otaheitans. + +Their hair in general is black, but more especially that of the women. +Different colours were found among the men, sometimes on the same head, +caused by something they put upon it, which stains it white, red, and blue. +Both sexes wear it short; I saw but two exceptions to this custom, and the +most of them combed it upwards. Many of the boys had it cut very close, +except a single lock on the top of the head, and a small quantity on each +side. The men cut or shave their beards quite close, which operation is +performed with two shells. They have fine eyes, and in general good teeth, +even to an advanced age. The custom of _tattowing_ or puncturing the +skin prevails. The men are _tattowed_ from the middle of the thigh to +above the hips. The women have it only on their arms and fingers; and there +but very slightly. + +The dress of both sexes consists of a piece of cloth or matting wrapped +round the waist, and hanging down below the knees. From the waist, upwards, +they are generally naked; and it seemed to be a custom to anoint these +parts every morning. My friend Attago never failed to do it; but whether +out of respect to his friend, or from custom, I will not pretend to say; +though I rather think from the latter, as he was not singular in the +practice. + +Their ornaments are amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones, shells, and +beads of mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell, &c. which are worn by both sexes. +The women also wear on their fingers neat rings made of tortoise-shell, and +pieces in their ears about the size of a small quill; but ear ornaments are +not commonly worn, though all have their ears pierced. They have also a +curious apron made of the outside fibres of the cocoa-nut shell, and +composed of a number of small pieces sewed together in such a manner as to +form stars, half-moons, little squares, &c. It is studded with beads of +shells, and covered with red feathers, so as to have a pleasing effect. +They make the same kind of cloth, and of the same materials, as at +Otaheite; though they have not such a variety, nor do they make any so +fine; but, as they have a method of glazing it, it is more durable, and +will resist rain for some time, which Otaheite cloth will not. Their +colours are black, brown, purple, yellow, and red; all made from +vegetables. They make various sorts of matting; some of a very fine +texture, which is generally used for clothing; and the thick and stronger +sort serves to sleep on, and to make sails for their canoes, &c. Among +other useful utensils, they have various sorts of baskets; some are made of +the same materials as their mats; and others of the twisted fibres of +cocoa-nuts. These are not only durable but beautiful; being generally +composed of different colours, and studded with beads made of shells or +bones. They have many little nick-nacks amongst them; which shews that they +neither want taste to design, nor skill to execute, whatever they take in +hand. + +How these people amuse themselves in their leisure hours, I cannot say, as +we are but little acquainted with their diversions. The women frequently +entertained us with songs, in a manner which was agreeable enough. They +accompany the music by snapping their fingers, so as to keep time to it. +Not only their voices, but their music was very harmonious, and they have a +considerable compass in their notes. I saw but two musical instruments +amongst them. One was a large flute made of a piece of bamboo, which they +fill with their noses as at Otaheite; but these have four holes or stops, +whereas those of Otaheite have only two. The other was composed of ten or +eleven small reeds of unequal lengths, bound together side by side, as the +Doric pipe of the ancients is said to have been; and the open ends of the +reeds into which they blow with their mouths, are of equal height, or in a +line. They have also a drum, which, without any impropriety, may be +compared to an hollow log of wood. The one I saw was five feet six inches +long, and thirty inches in girt, and had a slit in it, from the one end to +the other, about three inches wide, by means of which it had been hollowed +out. They beat on the side of this log with two drum-sticks, and produce an +hollow sound, not quite so musical as that of an empty cask. + +The common method of saluting one another is by touching or meeting noses, +as is done in New Zealand, and their sign of peace to strangers, is the +displaying a white flag or flags; at least such were displayed to us, when +we first drew near the shore. But the people who came first on board +brought with them some of the pepper plant, and sent it before them into +the ship; a stronger sign of friendship than which one could not wish for. +From their unsuspicious manner of coming on board, and of receiving us at +first on shore, I am of opinion, they are seldom disturbed by either +foreign or domestic troubles. They are, however, not unprovided with very +formidable weapons; such as clubs and spears, made of hard wood, also bows +and arrows. The clubs are from three to five feet in length, and of various +shapes. Their bows and arrows are but indifferent; the former being very +slight, and the latter only made of a slender reed, pointed with hard wood. +Some of their spears have many barbs, and must be very dangerous weapons +where they take effect. On the inside of the bow is a groove, in which is +put the arrow; from which it would seem that they use but one. + +They have a singular custom of putting every thing you give them to their +heads, by way of thanks, as we conjectured. This manner of paying a +compliment, is taught them from their very infancy; for when we gave things +to little children, the mother lifted up the child's hand to its head. They +also used this custom in their exchanges with us; whatever we gave them for +their goods, was always applied to the head, just as if it had been given +them for nothing. Sometimes they would look at our goods, and if not +approved, return them back; but whenever they applied them to the head, the +bargain was infallibly struck. When I had made a present to the chief of +any thing curious, I frequently saw it handed from one to another; and +every one, into whose hands it came, put it to the head. Very often the +women would take hold of my hand, kiss it, and lift it to their heads. From +all this it should seem, that this custom, which they call +_fagafatie_, has various significations according as it is applied; +all, however, complimentary. + +It must be observed, that the sullen chief or king did not pay me any of +these compliments for the presents I made him. + +A still more singular custom prevails in these isles: We observed that the +greater part of the people, both men and women, had lost one, or both their +little fingers. We endeavoured, but in vain, to find out the reason of +this mutilation; for no one would take any pains to inform us. It was +neither peculiar to rank, age, or sex; nor is it done at any certain age, +as I saw those of all ages on whom the amputation had been just made; and, +except some young children, we found few who had both hands perfect. As it +was more common among the aged than the young, some of us were of opinion +that it was occasioned by the death of their parents, or some other near +relation. But Mr Wales one day met with a man, whose hands were both +perfect, of such an advanced age, that it was hardly possible his parents +could be living. They also burn or make incisions in their cheeks, near the +cheek-bone. The reason of this was equally unknown to us. In some, the +wounds were quite fresh; in others, they could only be known by the scars, +or colour of the skin. I saw neither sick nor lame amongst them; all +appeared healthy, strong, and vigorous; a proof of the goodness of the +climate in which they live. + +I have frequently mentioned a king, which implies the government being in a +single person, without knowing for certain whether it is so or no. Such an +one was however pointed out to us; and we had no reason to doubt it. From +this, and other circumstances, I am of opinion that the government is much +like that of Otaheite: That is, in a king or great chief, who is here +called Areeke, with other chiefs under him, who are lords of certain +districts, and perhaps sole proprietors, to whom the people seem to pay +great obedience. I also observed a third rank, who had not a little +authority over the common people; my friend Attago was one of these. I am +of opinion that all the land on. _Tongatabu_ is private property, and +that there are here, as at Otaheite, a set of people, who are servants or +slaves, and have no property in land. It is unreasonable to suppose every +thing in common in a country so highly cultivated as this. Interest being +the greatest spring which animates the hand of industry, few would toil in +cultivating and planting the land, if they did not expect to reap the fruit +of their labour: Were it otherwise, the industrious man would be in a worse +state than the idle sluggard. I frequently saw parties of six, eight, or +ten people, bring down to the landing place fruit and other things to +dispose of, where one person, a man or woman, superintended the sale of the +whole; no exchanges were made but with his or her consent; and whatever we +gave in exchange was always given them, which I think plainly shewed them +to be the owners of the goods, and the others no more than servants. Though +benevolent nature has been very bountiful to these isles, it cannot be said +that the inhabitants are wholly exempt from the curse of our forefathers: +Part of their bread must be earned by the sweat of their brows. The high +state of cultivation their lands are in, must have cost them immense +labour. This is now amply rewarded by the great produce, of which every one +seems to partake. No one wants the common necessaries of life; joy and +contentment are painted in every face. Indeed, it can hardly be otherwise; +an easy freedom prevails among all ranks of people; they feel no wants +which they do not enjoy the means of gratifying; and they live in a clime +where the painful extremes of heat and cold are equally unknown. If nature +has been wanting in any thing, it is in the article of fresh water, which +as it is shut up in the bowels of the earth, they are obliged to dig for. A +running stream was not seen, and but one well, at Amsterdam. At Middleburg, +we saw no water but what the natives had in vessels; but as it was sweet +and cool, I had no doubt of its being taken up upon the island; and +probably not far from the spot where I saw it. + +So little do we know of their religion, that I hardly dare mention it. The +buildings called _Afiatoucas_, before mentioned, are undoubtedly set +apart for this purpose. Some of our gentlemen were of opinion, that they +were merely burying-places. I can only say, from my own knowledge, that +they are places to which particular persons directed set speeches, which I +understood to be prayers, as hath been already related. Joining my opinion +with that of others, I was inclined to think that they are set apart to be +both temples and burying-places, as at Otaheite, or even in Europe. But I +have no idea of the images being idols; not only from what I saw myself, +but from Mr Wales's informing me that they set one of them up, for him and +others to shoot at. + +One circumstance shewed that these _Afiatoucas_ were frequently +resorted to, for one purpose or other--the areas, or open places, before +them, being covered with a green sod, the grass on which was very short. +This did not appear to have been cut, or reduced by the hand of man, but to +have been prevented in its growth, by being often trod, or sat upon. + +It cannot be supposed that we could know much, either of their civil or +religious policy, in so short a time as four or five days, especially as we +understood but little of their language: Even the two islanders we had on +board could not at first understand them, and yet as we became the more +acquainted with them, we found their language was nearly the same spoken at +Otaheite and the Society Isles. The difference not being greater than what +we find betwixt the most northern and western parts of England, as will +more fully appear by the vocabulary. + +CHAPTER IV. + +_Passage from Amsterdam to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with an Account of an +Interview with the Inhabitants, and the final Separation of the two +Ships._ + +1773 October + +About the time we were in a condition to make sail, a canoe, conducted by +four men, came along-side, with one of those drums already mentioned, on +which one man kept continually beating; thinking, no doubt, the music would +charm us. I gave them a piece of cloth and a nail, for the drum; and took +an opportunity to send to my friend Attago some wheat, pease, and beans, +which I had forgot to give him when he had the other seeds. As soon as this +canoe was gone, we made sail to the southward, having a gentle gale at S.E. +by E.; it being my intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound +in New Zealand, there to take in wood and water, and then to go on farther +discoveries to the south and east. + +In the afternoon on the 8th, we made the island of Pilstart, bearing S.W. +by W. 1/2 W., distant seven or eight leagues. This island, which was also +discovered by Tasman, is situated in the latitude of 22 deg. 26' south, +longitude 175 deg. 59' west, and lies in the direction of S. 52 deg. west, distant +thirty-two leagues from the south end of Middleburg. It is more conspicuous +in height than circuit; having in it two considerable hills, seemingly +disjoined from each other by a low valley. After a few hours calm the wind +came to S.W.; with which we stretched to the S.E.; but on the 10th, it +veered round by the south to the S.E. and E.S.E. and then we resumed our +course to the S.S.W. + +At five o'clock in the morning of the 21st, we made the land of New +Zealand, extending from N.W. by N. to W.S.W.; at noon, Table Cape bore +west, distant eight or ten leagues. I was very desirous of having some +intercourse with the natives of this country as far to the north as +possible; that is, about Poverty or Tolaga Bays, where I apprehended they +were more civilized than at Queen Charlotte's Sound; in order to give them +some hogs, fowls, seeds, roots, &c. which I had provided for the purpose. +The wind veering to the N.W. and north, enabled us to fetch in with the +land a little to the north of Portland, and we stood as near the shore as +we could with safety. We observed several people upon it, but none +attempted to come off to us. Seeing this, we bore away under Portland, +where we lay-to some time, as well to give time for the natives to come +off, as to wait for the Adventure. There were several people on Portland, +but none seemed inclined to come to us; indeed the wind, at this time, blew +rather too fresh for them to make the attempt. Therefore, as soon as the +Adventure was up with us, we made sail for Cape Kidnappers, which we passed +at five o'clock in the morning, and continued our course along-shore till +nine, when, being about three leagues short off Black-head, we saw some +canoes put off from the shore. Upon this I brought to, in order to give +them time to come on board; but ordered the Adventure, by signal, to stand +on, as I was willing to lose as little time as possible. + +Those in the first canoe, which came along-side, were fishers, and +exchanged some fish for pieces of cloth and nails. In the next, were two +men, whom, by their dress and behaviour, I took to be chiefs.--These two +were easily prevailed on to come on board, when they were presented with +nails and other articles. They were so fond of nails, as to seize on all +they could find, and with such eagerness, as plainly shewed they were the +most valuable things we could give them. To the principal of these two men +I gave the pigs, fowls, seeds, and roots. I believe, at first, he did not +think I meant to give them to him; for he took but little notice of them, +till he was satisfied they were for himself. Nor was he then in such a +rapture as when I gave him a spike-nail half the length of his arm. +However, at his going away I took notice, that he very well remembered how +many pigs and fowls had been given him, as he took care to have them all +collected together, and kept a watchful eye over them, lest any should be +taken away. He made me a promise not to kill any; and if he keeps his word, +and proper care is taken of them, there were enough to stock the whole +island in due time; being two boars, two sows, four hens, and two cocks; +The seeds were such as are most useful (viz.) wheat, French and kidney +beans, pease, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parsnips, and yams, &c. +With these articles they were dismissed. It was evident these people had +not forgot the Endeavour being on their coast; for the first words they +spoke to us were, _Mataou no te pow pow_ (we are afraid of the guns). +As they could be no strangers to the affair which happened off Cape +Kidnappers in my former voyage, experience had taught them to have some +regard to these instruments of death. + +As soon as they were gone, we stretched off to the southward, the wind +having now veered to the W.S.W. In the afternoon it increased to a fresh +gale, and blew in squalls; in one of which we lost our fore-top-gallant +mast, having carried the sail a little too long. The fear of losing the +land induced me to carry as much sail as possible. At seven in the morning, +we tacked and stretched in shore, Cape Turnagain at this time bore about +N.W. 1/2 N. distant six or seven leagues. The Adventure, being a good way +to leeward, we supposed, did not observe the signal, but stood on; +consequently was separated from us. During the night (which was spent in +plying) the wind increased in such a manner as to bring us under our +courses; it also veered to S.W. and S.S.W., and was attended with rain. + +At nine in the morning on the 23d, the sky began to clear up, and the gale +to abate, so that we could carry close-reefed top-sails. At eleven o'clock +we were close in with Cape Turnagain, when we tacked and stood off; at noon +the said Cape bore west a little northerly, distant six or seven miles. +Latitude observed 41 deg. 30' south. Soon after, the wind falling almost to a +calm, and flattering ourselves that it would be succeeded by one more +favourable, we got up another top-gallant-mast, rigged top-gallant-yards, +and loosed all the reefs out of the top-sails. The event was not equal to +our wishes. The wind, indeed, came something more favourable, that is at W. +by N., with which we stretched along shore to the southward; but it soon +increased in such a manner, as to undo what we had but just done, and at +last stripped us to our courses, and two close-reefed top-sails under which +sails we continued all night. About day-light, the next morning, the gale +abating, we were again tempted to loose out the reefs, and rig top-gallant- +yards, which proved all lost labour; for, by nine o'clock, we were reduced +to the same sail as before. Soon after, the Adventure joined us; and at +noon Cape Palliser bore west, distant eight or nine leagues. This Cape is +the northern point of Eaheinomauwe. We continued to stretch to the +southward till midnight, when the wind abated and shifted to S.E. Three +hours after, it fell calm, during which we loosed the reefs out, with the +vain hopes that the next wind which came would be favourable. We were +mistaken; the wind only took this short repose, in order to gain strength, +and fall the heavier upon us. For at five o'clock in the morning, being the +25th, a gale sprung up at N.W. with which we stretched to S.W.; Cape +Palliser at this time bore N.N.W., distant eight or nine leagues. The wind +increased in such a manner, as obliged us to take in one reef after +another; and, at last, it came on with such fury, as made it necessary to +take in all our sails with the utmost expedition, and to lie-to under bare +poles. The sea rose in proportion with the wind; so that we had a terrible +gale and a mountainous sea to encounter. Thus after beating up against a +hard gale for two days, and arriving just in sight of our port, we had the +mortification to be driven off from the land by a furious storm. Two +favourable circumstances attended it, which gave us some consolation; it +was fair over head, and we were not apprehensive of a lee-shore. + +The storm continued all the day without the least intermission. In the +evening we bore down to look for the Adventure, she being out of sight to +leeward, and after running the distance we supposed her to be off, brought +to again without seeing her; it being so very hazy and thick in the +horizon, that we could not see a mile round us, occasioned by the spray of +the sea being lifted up to a great height by the force of the wind. At +midnight the gale abated; soon after fell little wind; and at last shifted +to S.W., when we wore, set the courses and top-sails close-reefed, and +stood in for the land. Soon after the wind freshened and fixed at south; +but as the Adventure was some distance a-stern, we lay by for her till +eight o'clock, when we both made all sail, and steered N. by W. 1/2 W. for +the Strait. At noon observed in 42 deg. 27' south, Cape Palliser, by judgment, +bore north, distant seventeen leagues. This favourable wind was not of +sufficient duration; in the afternoon it fell by little and little, and at +length to a calm; this at ten o'clock was succeeded by a fresh breeze from +the north, with which we stretched to the westward. + +At three o'clock next morning, we were pretty well in with Cape Campbell on +the west side of the Strait, when we tacked, and stretched over for Cape +Palliser, under courses and close-reefed top-sails, having the wind at +N.W., a very strong gale and fair weather. At noon, we tacked and stretched +to S.W., with the last-mentioned Cape bearing west, distant four or five +leagues. In the afternoon, the gale increased in such a manner as brought +us under our courses. We continued to stretch to the S.W. till midnight, +when we wore, and set close-reefed top-sails. + +On the 28th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we wore, and stood again to +the S.W. till noon, when we were obliged to lie-to under the fore-sail. At +this time the high land over Cape Campbell bore west, distant ten or twelve +leagues. The Adventure four or five miles to leeward. In the afternoon the +fury of the gale began to abate; when we set the main-sail, close-reefed +main-top-sail, and stood to the windward with the wind at W.N.W. and W. by +N. a strong gale, attended with heavy squalls. + +In the morning of the 29th, the wind abated and shifted to S.W. a gentle +gale. Of this we took immediate advantage, set all our sails, and stood for +Cape Palliser, which at noon bore W. by N. 1/2 N., distant about six +leagues. The wind continued between the S.W. and south till five in the +evening, when it fell calm. At this time we were about three leagues from +the Cape. At seven o'clock the calm was succeeded by a gentle breeze from +N.N.E., as fair as we could wish; so that we began to reckon what time we +should reach the Sound the next day; but at nine the wind shifted to its +old quarter N.W., and blew a fresh gale, with which we stretched to the +S.W., under single-reefed topsails and courses, with the Adventure in +company. She was seen until midnight, at which time she was two or three +miles a-stern, and presently after she disappeared; nor was she to be seen +at day-light. We supposed she had tacked and stood to the N.E., by which +manoeuvre we lost sight of her. + +We continued to stretch to the westward with the wind at N.N.W., which +increased in such a manner as to bring us under our two courses, after +splitting a new main-topsail. At noon Cape Campbell bore W. by N., distant +seven or eight leagues. At three in the afternoon the gale began to abate, +and to veer more to the north, so that we fetched in with the land, under +the Snowy Mountains, about four or five leagues to windward of the Lookers- +on, where there was the appearance of a large bay, I now regretted the loss +of the Adventure; for had she been with me, I should have given up all +thoughts of going to Queen Charlotte's Sound to wood and water, and have +sought for a place to get these articles farther south, as the wind was now +favourable for ranging along the coast. But our separation made it +necessary for me to repair to the Sound, that being the place of +rendezvous. + +As we approached the land, we saw smoke in several places along the shore; +a sure sign that the coast was inhabited. Our soundings were from forty- +seven to twenty-five fathoms; that is, at the distance of three miles from +the shore, forty-seven fathoms; and twenty-five fathoms at the distance of +one mile, where we tacked, and stood to the eastward, under the two courses +and close-reefed top-sails; but the latter we could not carry long before +we were obliged to hand them. We continued to stand to the eastward all +night, in hopes of meeting with the Adventure in the morning. + +Seeing nothing of her then, we wore and brought to, under the fore-sail and +mizen-stay-sail, the wind having increased to a perfect storm; but we had +not been long in this situation before it abated, so as to permit us to +carry the two courses, under which we stood to the west; and at noon the +Snowy Mountains bore W.N.W., distant twelve or fourteen leagues. At six +o'clock in the evening the wind quite ceased; but this proved only a +momentary repose; for presently after it began to blow with redoubled fury, +and obliged us to lie-to under the mizen-stay-sail; in which situation we +continued till midnight, when the storm lessened; and two hours after it +fell calm. + +1773 November + +On the 1st of November, at four o'clock in the morning, the calm was +succeeded by a breeze from the south. This soon after increased to a fresh +gale, attended with hazy, rainy weather, which gave us hopes that the N.W. +winds were done; for it must be observed, that they were attended with +clear and fair weather. We were not wanting in taking immediate advantage +of this favourable wind, by setting all our sails, and steering for Cape +Campbell, which at noon bore north, distant three or four leagues. At two +o'clock we passed the Cape, and entered the Strait with a brisk gale a- +stern, and so likely to continue that we thought of nothing less than +reaching our port the next morning. Once more we were to be deceived; at +six o'clock, being off Cloudy Bay, our favourable wind was succeeded by one +from the north, which soon after veered to N.W., and increased to a fresh +gale. We spent the night plying; our tacks proved disadvantageous; and we +lost more on the ebb than we gained on the flood. Next morning, we +stretched over for the shore of Eaheinomauwe. At sun-rise the horizon being +extraordinarily clear to leeward, we looked well out for the Adventure; but +as we saw nothing of her, judged she had got into the Sound. As we +approached the above-mentioned shore, we discovered on the east side of +Cape Teerawhitte, a new inlet I had never observed before. Being tired +with beating against the N.W. winds, I resolved to put into this place if I +found it practicable, or to anchor in the bay which lies before it. The +flood being favourable, after making a stretch off, we fetched under the +Cape, and stretched into the bay along the western shore, having from +thirty-five to twelve fathoms, the bottom everywhere good anchorage. At one +o'clock we reached the entrance of the inlet just as the tide of ebb was +making out; the wind being likewise against us, we anchored in twelve +fathoms water, the bottom a fine sand. The easternmost of the Black Rocks, +which lie on the larboard side of the entrance of the inlet, bore N. by E., +one mile distant; Cape Teerawhitte, or the west point of the bay, west, +distant about two leagues; and the east point of the bay N. by east, four +or five miles. + +Soon after we had anchored, several of the natives came off in their +canoes; two from one shore, and one from the other. It required but little +address to get three or four of them on board. These people were +extravagantly fond of nails above every other thing. To one man I gave two +cocks and two hens, which he received with so much indifference, as gave me +little hopes he would take proper care of them. + +We had not been at anchor here above two hours, before the wind veered to +N.E., with which we weighed; but the anchor was hardly at the bows before +it shifted to the south. With this we could but just lead out of the bay, +and then bore away for the Sound under all the sail we could set; having +the advantage, or rather disadvantage, of an increasing gale, which already +blew too hard. We hauled up into the Sound just at dark, after making two +boards, in which most of our sails were split; and anchored in eighteen +fathoms water, between the White Rocks and the N.W. shore. + +The next morning the gale abated, and was succeeded by a few hours calm; +after that a breeze sprang up at N.W., with which we weighed and ran up +into Ship Cove, where we did not find the Adventure, as was expected. + +CHAPTER V. + +_Transactions at Queen Charlotte's Sound; with an Account of the +Inhabitants being Cannibals; and various other Incidents.--Departure from +the Sound, and our Endeavours to find the Adventure; with some Description +of the Coast._ + +1773 November + +The first thing we did after mooring the ship, was to unbend all the sails; +there not being one but what wanted repair. Indeed, both our sails and +rigging had sustained much damage in beating off the Strait's mouth. + +We had no sooner anchored than we were visited by the natives, several of +whom I remembered to have seen when I was here in the Endeavour, +particularly an old man named Goubiah. In the afternoon, I gave orders +for all the empty water casks to be landed, in order to be repaired, +cleaned, and filled, tents to be set up for the sail-makers, coopers, and +others, whose business made it necessary for them to be on shore. The next +day we began to caulk the ship's sides and decks, to overhaul her rigging, +repair the sails, cut wood for fuel, and set up the smith's forge to repair +the iron-work; all of which were absolutely necessary. We also made some +hauls with the seine, but caught no fish; which deficiency the natives in +some measure, made up, by bringing us a good quantity, and exchanging them +for pieces of Otaheitean cloth, &c. + +On the 5th, the most part of our bread being in casks, I ordered some to be +opened, when, to our mortification, we found a good deal of it damaged. To +repair this loss in the best manner we could, all the casks were opened; +the bread was picked, and the copper oven set up, to bake such parcels of +it, as, by that means, could be recovered. Some time this morning, the +natives stole, out of one of the tents, a bag of clothes belonging to one +of the seamen. As soon as I was informed of it, I went to them in an +adjoining cove, demanded the clothes again, and, after some time spent in +friendly application, recovered them. Since we were among thieves, and had +come off so well, I was not sorry for what had happened, as it taught our +people to keep a better lookout for the future. + +With these people I saw the youngest of the two sows Captain Furneaux had +put on shore in Cannibal Cove, when we were last here: It was lame of one +of its hind legs; otherwise in good case, and very tame. If we understood +these people right, the boar and other sow were also taken away and +separated, but not killed. We were likewise told, that the two goats I had +put on shore up the Sound, had been killed by that old rascal Goubiah. Thus +all our endeavours to stock this country with useful animals were likely to +be frustrated, by the very people we meant to serve. Our gardens had fared +somewhat better. Every thing in them, except the potatoes, they had left +entirely to nature, who had acted her part so well, that we found most +articles in a flourishing state: A proof that the winter must have been +mild. The potatoes had most of them been dug up; some, however, still +remained, and were growing, though I think it is probable they will never +be got out of the ground. + +Next morning I sent over to the cove, where the natives reside, to haul the +seine; and took with me a boar, and a young sow, two cocks, and two hens, +we had brought from the isles. These I gave to the natives, being persuaded +they would take proper care of them, by their keeping Captain Furneaux's +sow near five months; for I am to suppose it was caught soon after we +sailed. We had no better success with the seine than before; nevertheless +we did not return on board quite empty, having purchased a large quantity +from the natives. When we were upon this traffic, they shewed a great +inclination to pick my pockets, and to take away the fish with one hand, +which they had just given me with the other. This evil one of the chiefs +undertook to remove, and with fury in his eyes made a shew of keeping the +people at a proper distance. I applauded his conduct, but at the same time +kept so good a look-out, as to detect him in picking my pocket of an +handkerchief; which I suffered him to put in his bosom before I seemed to +know any thing of the matter, and then told him what I had lost. He seemed +quite ignorant and innocent, till I took it from him; and then he put it +off with a laugh, acting his part with so much address, that it was hardly +possible for me to be angry with him; so that we remained good friends, and +he accompanied me on board to dinner. About that time, we were visited by +several strangers, in four or five canoes, who brought with them fish, and +other articles, which they exchanged for cloth, &c. These newcomers took up +their quarters in a cove near us; but very early the next morning moved off +with six of our small water casks; and with them all the people we found +here on our arrival. This precipitate retreat of these last, we supposed +was owing to the theft the others had committed. They left behind them some +of their dogs, and the boar I had given them the day before, which I now +took back again as I had not another. Our casks were the least loss we felt +by these people leaving us: While they remained, we were generally well +supplied with fish at a small expence. + +We had fair weather, with the wind at N.E., on the 9th, which gave us some +hopes of seeing the Adventure; but these hopes vanished in the afternoon, +when the wind shifted to the westward. + +The next morning, our friends the natives returned again, and brought with +them a quantity of fish, which they exchanged for two hatchets. + +Fair weather on the 12th, enabled us to finish picking, airing, and baking +our biscuit; four thousand two hundred and ninety-two pounds of which we +found totally unfit to eat; and about three thousand pounds more could only +be eaten by people in our situation. + +On the 13th, clear and pleasant weather. Early in the morning the natives +brought us a quantity of fish, which they exchanged as usual. But their +greatest branch of trade was the green talc or stone, called by them +Poenammoo, a thing of no great value; nevertheless it was so much sought +after by our people, that there was hardly a thing they would not give for +a piece of it. + +The 15th being a pleasant morning, a party of us went over to the East Bay, +and climbed one of the hills which overlooked the eastern part of the +Strait, in order to look for the Adventure. We had a fatiguing walk to +little purpose; for when we came to the summit, we found the eastern +horizon so foggy, that we could not see above two miles. Mr Forster, who +was one of the party, profited by this excursion, in collecting some new +plants. I now began to despair of seeing the Adventure any more; but was +totally at a loss to conceive what was become of her. Till now, I thought +she had put into some port in the Strait, when the wind came to N.W., the +day we anchored in the Cove, and waited to complete her water. This +conjecture was reasonable enough at first, but it was now hardly probable +she could be twelve days in our neighbourhood, without our either hearing +or seeing something of her. + +The hill we now mounted is the same that I was upon in 1770, when I had the +second view of the Strait: We then built a tower, with the stones we found +there, which we now saw had been levelled to the ground; no doubt by the +natives, with a view of finding something hid in it. When we returned from +the hill, we found a number of them collected round our boat. After some +exchanges, and making them some presents, we embarked, in order to return +on board; and, in our way, visited others of the inhabitants, by whom we +were kindly received. + +Our friends, the natives, employed themselves on the 17th in fishing in our +neighbourhood; and, as fast as they caught the fish, came and disposed of +them to us; insomuch that we had more than we could make use of. From this +day to the 22d nothing remarkable happened, and we were occupied in getting +every thing in readiness to put to sea, being resolved to wait no longer +than the assigned time for the Adventure. + +The winds were between the south and west, stormy with rain till the 23d, +when the weather became settled, clear, and pleasant. Very early in the +morning, we were visited by a number of the natives, in four or five +canoes, very few of whom we had seen before. They brought with them various +articles (curiosities), which they exchanged for Otaheitean cloth, &c. At +first, the exchanges were very much in our favour, till an old man, who was +no stranger to us, came and assisted his countrymen with his advice; which, +in a moment, turned the trade above a thousand per cent, against us. + +After these people were gone, I took four hogs (that is, three sows and one +boar), two cocks and two hens, which I landed in the bottom of the West +Bay; carrying them a little way into the woods, where we left them with as +much food as would serve them ten or twelve days. This was done with a view +of keeping them in the woods, lest they should come down to the shore in +search of food, and be discovered by the natives; which, however, seemed +not probable, as this place had never been frequented by them; nor were any +traces of them to be seen near it. We also left some cocks and hens in the +woods in Ship Cove; but these will have a chance of falling into the hands +of the natives, whose wandering way of life will hinder them from breeding, +even suppose they should be taken proper care of. Indeed, they took rather +too much care of those which I had already given them, by keeping them +continually confined, for fear of losing them in the woods. The sow pig we +had not seen since the day they had her from me; but we were now told she +was still living, as also the old boar and sow given them by Captain +Furneaux; so that there is reason to hope they may succeed. It will be +unfortunate, indeed, if every method I have taken, to provide this country +with useful animals, should be frustrated. We were likewise told, that the +two goats were still alive, and running about; but I gave more credit to +the first story than this. I should have replaced them, by leaving behind +the only two I had left, but had the misfortune to lose the ram soon after +our arrival here, in a manner we could hardly account for. They were both +put ashore at the tents, where they seemed to thrive very well; at last, +the ram was taken with fits bordering on madness. We were at a loss to tell +whether it was occasioned by any thing he had eaten, or by being stung with +nettles, which were in plenty about the place; but supposed it to be the +latter, and therefore did not take the care of him we ought to have done. +One night, while he was lying by the centinel, he was seized with one of +these fits, and ran headlong into the sea; but soon came out again, and +seemed quite easy. Presently after, he was seized with another fit, and ran +along the beach, with the she-goat after him. Some time after she returned, +but the other was never seen more. Diligent search was made for him in the +woods to no purpose; we therefore supposed he had run into the sea a second +time, and had been drowned. After this accident, it would have been in vain +to leave the she-goat, as she was not with kid; having kidded but a few +days before we arrived, and the kids dead. Thus the reader will see how +every method I have taken to stock this country with sheep and goats has +proved ineffectual. + +When I returned on board in the evening, I found our good friends the +natives had brought us a large supply of fish. Some of the officers +visiting them at their habitations, saw, among them, some human thigh- +bones, from which the flesh had been but lately picked. This, and other +circumstances, led us to believe that the people, whom we took for +strangers this morning, were of the same tribe; that they had been out on +some war expedition; and that those things they sold us, were the spoils of +their enemies. Indeed, we had some information of this sort the day before; +for a number of women and children came off to us in a canoe, from whom we +learnt that a party of men were then out, for whose safety they were under +some apprehension; but this report found little credit with us, as we soon +after saw some canoes come in from fishing, which we judged to be them. + +Having now got the ship in a condition for sea, and to encounter the +southern latitudes, I ordered the tents to be struck, and every thing to be +got on board. + +The boatswain, with a party of men, being in the woods cutting broom, some +of them found a private hut of the natives, in which was deposited most of +the treasure they had received from us, as well as some other articles of +their own. It is very probable some were set to watch this hut; as, soon +after it was discovered, they came and took all away. But missing some +things, they told our people they had stolen them; and in the evening, came +and made their complaint to me, pitching upon one of the party as the +person who had committed the theft. Having ordered this man to be punished +before them, they went away seemingly satisfied; although they did not +recover any of the things they had lost, nor could I by any means find out +what had become of them; though nothing was more certain, than that +something had been stolen by some of the party, if not by the very man the +natives had pitched upon. It was ever a maxim with me, to punish the least +crimes any of my people committed against these uncivilized nations. Their +robbing us with impunity is, by no means, a sufficient reason why we should +treat them in the same manner, a conduct, we see, they themselves cannot +justify: They found themselves injured, and sought for redress in a legal +way. The best method, in my opinion, to preserve a good understanding with +such people, is, first, by shewing them the use of firearms, to convince +them of the superiority they give you over them, and then to be always upon +your guard. When once they are sensible of these things, a regard for their +own safety will deter them from disturbing you, or from being unanimous in +forming any plan to attack you; and strict honesty, and gentle treatment on +your part, will make it their interest not to do it. + +Calm or light airs from the north all day on the 23d, hindered us from +putting to sea as intended. In the afternoon, some of the officers went +on shore to amuse themselves among the natives, where they saw the head and +bowels of a youth, who had lately been killed, lying on the beach; and the +heart stuck on a forked stick, which was fixed to the head of one of the +largest canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head, and brought it on +board, where a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the +natives, before all the officers and most of the men. I was on shore at +this time, but soon after returning on board, was informed of the above +circumstances; and found the quarter-deck crowded with the natives, and the +mangled head, or rather part of it, (for the under-jaw and lip were +wanting) lying on the tafferal. The skull had been broken on the left +side, just above the temples; and the remains of the face had all the +appearance of a youth under twenty. + +The sight of the head, and the relation of the above circumstances, struck +me with horror, and filled my mind with indignation against these +cannibals. Curiosity, however, got the better of my indignation, especially +when I considered that it would avail but little; and being desirous of +becoming an eye-witness of a fact which many doubted, I ordered a piece of +the flesh to be broiled and brought to the quarter-deck, where one of these +cannibals eat it with surprising avidity. This had such an effect on some +of our people as to make them sick. Oedidee (who came on board with me) was +so affected with the sight as to become perfectly motionless, and seemed as +if metamorphosed into the statue of horror. It is utterly impossible for +art to describe that passion with half the force that it appeared in his +countenance. When roused from this state by some of us, he burst into +tears; continued to weep and scold by turns; told them they were vile men; +and that he neither was, nor would be any longer their friend. He even +would not suffer them to touch him; he used the same language to one of the +gentlemen who cut off the flesh; and refused to accept, or even touch the +knife with which it was done. Such was Oedidee's indignation against the +vile custom; and worthy of imitation by every rational being. + +I was not able to find out the reason for their undertaking this +expedition; all I could understand for certain was, that they went from +hence into Admiralty Bay (the next inlet to the west), and there fought +with their enemies, many of whom they killed. They counted to me fifty; a +number which exceeded probability, as they were not more, if so many, +themselves. I think I understood them clearly, that this youth was killed +there; and not brought away prisoner, and afterwards killed. Nor could I +learn that they had brought away any more than this one; which increased +the improbability of their having killed so many. We had also reason to +think that they did not come off without loss; for a young woman was seen, +more than once, to cut herself, as is the custom when they lose a friend or +relation. + +That the New Zealanders are cannibals, can now no longer be doubted. The +account given of this in my former voyage, being partly founded on +circumstances, was, as I afterwards understood, discredited by many +persons. Few consider what a savage man is in his natural state, and even +after he is, in some degree, civilized. The New Zealanders are certainly in +some state of civilization; their behaviour to us was manly and mild, +shewing, on all occasions, a readiness to oblige. They have some arts among +them which they execute with great judgment and unwearied patience; they +are far less addicted to thieving than the other islanders of the South +Sea; and I believe those in the same tribe, or such as are at peace one +with another, are strictly honest among themselves. This custom of eating +their enemies slain in battle (for I firmly believe they eat the flesh of +no others) has undoubtedly been handed down to them from the earliest +times; and we know it is not an easy matter to wean a nation from their +ancient customs, let them be ever so inhuman and savage; especially if that +nation has no manner of connexion or commerce with strangers. For it is by +this that the greatest part of the human race has been civilized; an +advantage which the New Zealanders, from their situation, never had. An +intercourse with foreigners would reform their manners, and polish their +savage minds. Or, were they more united under a settled form of government, +they would have fewer enemies, consequently this custom would be less in +use, and might in time be in a manner forgotten. At present, they have but +little idea of treating others as themselves would _wish_ to be +treated, but treat them as they _expect_ to be treated. If I remember +right, one of the arguments they made use of to Tupia, who frequently +expostulated with them against this custom, was, that there could be no +harm in killing and eating the man who would do the same by them if it was +in his power. "For," said they, "can there be any harm in eating our +enemies, whom we have killed in battle? Would not those very enemies have +done the same to us?" I have often seen them listen to Tupia with great +attention; but I never found his arguments have any weight with them, or +that with all his rhetoric, he could persuade any one of them that this +custom was wrong. And when Oedidee, and several of our people, shewed their +abhorrence of it, they only laughed at them. + +Among many reasons which I have heard assigned for the prevalence of this +horrid custom, the want of animal food has been one; but how far this is +deducible either from facts or circumstances, I shall leave those to find +out who advanced it. In every part of New Zealand where I have been, fish +was in such plenty, that the natives generally caught as much as served +both themselves and us. They have also plenty of dogs; nor is there any +want of wild fowl, which they know very well how to kill. So that neither +this, nor the want of food of any kind, can, in my opinion, be the reason. +But, whatever it may be, I think it was but too evident, that they have a +great liking for this kind of food. + +I must here observe, that Oedidee soon learnt to converse with these +people, as I am persuaded, he would have done with the people of Amsterdam, +had he been a little longer with them; for he did not understand the New +Zealanders, at first, any more, or not so much, as he understood the people +of Amsterdam. + +At four o'clock in the morning, on the 24th, we unmoored with an intent to +put to sea; but the wind being at N. and N.E. without, and blowing strong +puffs into the cove, made it necessary for us to lie fast. While we were +unmooring, some of our old friends came on board to take their leave of us, +and afterwards left the cove with all their effects; but those who had been +out on the late expedition remained; and some of the gentlemen having +visited them, found the heart still sticking on the canoe, and the +intestines lying on the beach; but the liver and lungs were now wanting. +Probably they had eaten them, after the carcase was all gone. + +On the 25th, early in the morning, we weighed, with a small, breeze out of +the cove, which carried us no farther than between Motuara and Long Island, +where we were obliged to anchor; but presently after a breeze springing up +at north, we weighed again, turned out of the Sound, and stood over for +Cape Teerawhitte. + +During our stay in the Sound, we were plentifully supplied with fish, +procured from the natives at a very easy rate; and, besides the vegetables +our own gardens afforded, we found every where plenty of scurvy grass and +cellery, which I caused to be dressed every day for all hands. By this +means, they had been mostly on a fresh diet for the three preceding months; +and at this time, we had neither a sick nor scorbutic man on board. It is +necessary to mention, for the information of others, that we had now some +pork on board, salted at Ulietea, and as good as any I ever eat. The manner +in which we cured it, was this: In the cool of the evening the hogs were +killed, dressed, cut up, the bones cut out, and the flesh salted while it +was yet hot. The next morning we gave it a second salting, packed it into a +cask, and put to it a sufficient quantity of strong pickle. Great care is +to be taken that the meat be well covered with pickle, otherwise it will +soon spoil. + +The morning before we sailed, I wrote a memorandum, setting forth the time +we last arrived, the day we sailed, the route I intended to take, and such +other information as I thought necessary for Captain Furneaux, in case he +should put into the Sound; and buried it in a bottle under the root of a +tree in the garden, which is in the bottom of the cove, in such a manner as +must be found by him or any other European who might put into the cove. I, +however, had little reason to hope it would fall into the hands of the +person for whom it was intended, thinking it hardly possible that the +Adventure could be in any port in New Zealand, as we had not heard of her +all this time. Nevertheless I was resolved not to leave the coast without +looking for her, where I thought it most likely for her to be. It was with +this view that I stood over for Cape Teerawhitte, and afterwards ran along- +shore, from point to point, to Cape Palliser, firing guns every half hour; +but all to no effect. At eight o'clock we brought-to for the night, Cape +Palliser bearing S.E. by E. distant three leagues; in which situation we +had fifty fathoms water. + +I had now an opportunity of making the following remarks on the coast +between Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Palliser: The bay which lies on the west +side of the last Cape, does not appear to run so far inland to the +northward as I at first thought; the deception being caused by the land in +the bottom of it being low: It is, however, at least five leagues deep, and +full as wide at the entrance. Though it seems to be exposed to southerly +and S.W. winds, it is probable there may be places in the bottom of it +sheltered even from these. The bay or inlet, on the east side of Cape +Teerawhitte, before which we anchored, lies in north, inclining to the +west, and seemed to be sheltered from all winds. The middle cape, or point +of land that disjoins these two bays, rises to a considerable height, +especially inland; for close to the sea is a skirt of low land, off which +lie some pointed rocks, but so near to the shore as to be noways dangerous. +Indeed, the navigation of this side of the Strait seems much safer than the +other, because the tides here are not near so strong. Cape Teerawhitte and +Cape Palliser lie in the direction of N. 69 deg. W., and S. 69 deg. east, from each +other distant ten leagues. The cape which disjoins the two bays above- +mentioned lies within, or north of this direction. All the land near the +coast, between and about these capes, is exceedingly barren; probably owing +to its being so much exposed to the cold southerly winds. From Cape +Teerawhitte to the Two Brothers, which lie off Cape Koamoroo, the course is +nearly N.W. by N. distant sixteen miles. North of Cape Teerawhitte, between +it and Entry Island, is an island lying pretty near the shore. I judged +this to be an island when I saw it in my former voyage, but not being +certain, left it undetermined in my chart of the Strait, which is the +reason of my taking notice of it now, as also of the bays, &c. above- +mentioned. + +At day-light in the morning on the 26th, we made sail round Cape Palliser, +firing guns as usual, as we ran along the shore. In this manner we +proceeded till we were three or four leagues to the N.E. of the Cape; when +the wind shifted to N.E., we bore away for Cape Campbell on the other side +of the Strait. Soon after, seeing a smoke ascend, at some distance inland, +away to the N.E. we hauled the wind, and continued to ply till six o'clock +in the evening; which was several hours after the smoke disappeared, and +left us not the least signs of people. + +Every one being unanimously of opinion that the Adventure could neither be +stranded on the coast, nor be in any of the harbours thereof, I gave up +looking for her, and all thoughts of seeing her any more during the voyage, +as no rendezvous was absolutely fixed upon after leaving New Zealand. +Nevertheless, this did not discourage me from fully exploring the southern +parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which I intended to employ the +whole of the ensuing season. + +On our quitting the coast, and consequently all hopes of being joined by +our consort, I had the satisfaction to find that not a man was dejected, or +thought the dangers we had yet to go through, were in the least increased +by being alone; but as cheerfully proceeding to the south, or wherever I +might think proper to lead them, as if the Adventure, or even more ships, +had been in our company. + +CHAPTER VI. + +_Route of the Ship from New Zealand in Search of a Continent; with an +Account of the various Obstructions met with from the Ice, and the Methods +pursued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean._ + +1773 November + +AT eight o'clock in the evening of the 26th, we took our departure from +Cape Palliser, and steered to the south, inclining to the east, having a +favourable gale from the N.W. and S.W. We daily saw some rock-weeds, seals, +Port Egmont hens, albatrosses, pintadoes, and other peterels. + +1773 December + +And on the 2d of December, being in the latitude of 48 deg. 23' south, +longitude 179 deg. 16' west, we saw a number of red-billed penguins, which +remained about us for several days. On the 5th, being in the latitude +50 deg. 17' south, longitude 179 deg. 40' east, the variation was 18 deg. 25' east. +At half an hour past eight o'clock the next evening, we reckoned +ourselves antipodes to our friends in London, consequently as far removed +from them as possible. + +On the 8th, being in the latitude 55 deg. 39', longitude 178 deg. 53' west, we +ceased to see penguins and seals, and concluded that those we had seen, +retired to the southern parts of New Zealand, whenever it was necessary for +them to be at land. We had now a strong gale at N.W., and a great swell +from S.W. This swell we got as soon as the south point of New Zealand came +in that direction; and as we had had no wind from that quarter the six +preceding days, but, on the contrary, it had been at east, north, and N.W., +I conclude there can be no land to the southward, under the meridian of New +Zealand, but what must lie very far to the south. The two following days we +had very stormy weather, sleet and snow, winds between the north and south- +west. + +The 11th the storm abated, and the weather clearing up, we found the +latitude to be 61 deg. 15' south, longitude 173 deg. 4' W. This fine weather was of +short duration; in the evening, the wind increased to a strong gale at S. +W., blew in squalls, attended with thick snow showers, hail, and sleet. The +mercury in the thermometer fell to thirty-two; consequently the weather was +very cold, and seemed to indicate that ice was not far off. + +At four o'clock the next morning, being in the latitude of 62 deg. 10' south, +longitude 172 deg. west, we saw the first ice island, 11 deg. 1/2 farther south +than the first ice we saw the preceding year after leaving the Cape of Good +Hope. At the time we saw this ice, we also saw an antarctic peterel, some +grey albatrosses, and our old companions pintadoes and blue peterels. The +wind kept veering from S.W. by the N.W. to N.N.E. for the most part a +fresh gale, attended with a thick haze and snow; on which account we +steered to the S.E. and E., keeping the wind always on the beam, that it +might be in our power to return back nearly on the same track, should our +course have been interrupted by any danger whatever. For some days we had a +great sea from the N.W. and S.W., so that it is not probable there can be +any land near, between these two points. + +We fell in with several large islands on the 14th, and about noon, with a +quantity of loose ice, through which we sailed. Latitude 64 deg. 55' south, +longitude 163 deg. 20' west. Grey albatrosses, blue peterels, pintadoes, and +fulmers, were seen. As we advanced to the S.E. by E. with a fresh gale at +west, we found the number of ice islands increase fast upon us. Between +noon and eight in the evening we saw but two; but before four o'clock in +the morning of the 15th, we had passed seventeen, besides a quantity of +loose ice which we ran through. At six o'clock, we were obliged to haul to +the N.E., in order to clear an immense field that lay to the south and S. +E. The ice, in most part of it, lay close packed together; in other places, +there appeared partitions in the field, and a clear sea beyond it. However, +I did not think it safe to venture through, as the wind would not permit us +to return the same way that we must go in. Besides, as it blew strong, and +the weather at times was exceedingly foggy, it was the more necessary for +us to get clear of this loose ice, which is rather more dangerous than the +great islands. It was not such ice as is usually found in bays or rivers +and near shore; but such as breaks off from the islands, and may not +improperly be called parings of the large pieces, or the rubbish or +fragments which fall off when the great islands break loose from the place +where they are formed. + +We had not stood long to the N.E. before we found ourselves embayed by the +ice, and were obliged to tack and stretch to the S.W., having the field, +or loose ice, to the south, and many huge islands to the north. After +standing two hours on this tack, the wind very luckily veering to the +westward, we tacked, stretched to the north, and soon got clear of the +loose ice; but not before we had received several hard knocks from the +larger pieces, which, with all our care, we could not avoid. After clearing +one danger we still had another to encounter; the weather remained foggy, +and many large islands lay in our way; so that we had to luff for one, and +bear up for another. One we were very near falling aboard of, and, if it +had happened, this circumstance would never have been related. These +difficulties, together with the improbability of finding land farther +south, and the impossibility of exploring it, on account of the ice, if we +should find any, determined me to get more to the north. At the time we +last tacked, we were in the longitude of 159 deg. 20' W., and in the latitude +of 66 deg. 0' S. Several penguins were seen on some of these islands, and a few +antarctic peterels on the wing. + +We continued to stand to the north, with a fresh gale at west, attended +with thick snow showers, till eight o'clock in the evening, when the wind +abated, the sky began to clear up, and at six o'clock in the morning of the +16th it fell calm. Four hours after, it was succeeded by a breeze at N.E. +with which we stretched to the S.E., having thick hazy weather, with snow +showers, and all our rigging coated with ice. In the evening, we attempted +to take some up out of the sea, but were obliged to desist; the sea running +too high, and the pieces being so large, that it was dangerous for the boat +to come near them. + +The next morning, being the 17th, we succeeded better; for, falling in with +a quantity of loose ice, we hoisted out two boats; and by noon got on board +as much as we could manage. We then made sail for the east, with a gentle +breeze northerly, attended with snow and sleet, which froze to the rigging +as it fell. At this time we were in the latitude of 64 deg. 41' south, +longitude 155 deg. 44' west. The ice we took up proved to be none of the best, +being chiefly composed of frozen snow; on which account it was porous, and +had imbibed a good deal of salt water; but this drained off, after lying a +while on deck, and the water then yielded was fresh. We continued to +stretch to the east, with a piercing cold northerly wind, attended with a +thick fog, snow, and sleet, that decorated all our rigging with icicles. We +were hourly meeting with some of the large ice islands, which, in these +high latitudes, render navigation so very dangerous: At seven in the +evening, falling in with a cluster of them, we narrowly escaped running +aboard of one, and, with difficulty, wore clear of the others. We stood +back to the west till ten o'clock; at which time the fog cleared away, and +we resumed our course to the east. At noon, the next day, we were in the +latitude of 64 deg. 49' S., longitude 149 deg. 19' W. Some time after, our +longitude, by observed distance of the sun and moon, was 149 deg. 19' W.; by Mr +Kendal's watch 148 deg. 36'; and, by my reckoning, 148 deg. 43', latitude 64 deg. 48' +S. + +The clear weather, and the wind veering to N.W., tempted me to steer south; +which course we continued till seven in the morning of the 20th, when the +wind changing to N.E. and the sky becoming clouded, we hauled up S.E. In +the afternoon the wind increased to a strong gale, attended with a thick +fog, snow, sleet, and rain, which constitutes the very worst of weather. +Our rigging, at this time, was so loaded with ice, that we had enough to do +to get our topsails down, to double the reef. At seven o'clock in the +evening, in the longitude of 147 deg. 46', we came, the second time, within the +antarctic or polar circle, continuing our course to the S.E. till six +o'clock the next morning. At that time, being in the latitude of 67 deg. 5' S., +all at once we got in among a cluster of very large ice islands, and a vast +quantity of loose pieces; and as the fog was exceedingly thick, it was with +the utmost difficulty we wore clear of them. This done, we stood to the +N.W. till noon, when, the fog being somewhat dissipated, we resumed our +course again to the S.E. The ice islands we met with in the morning were +very high and rugged, forming at their tops, many peaks; whereas the most +of those we had seen before, were flat at top, and not so high; though many +of them were between two and three hundred feet in height, and between two +and three miles in circuit, with perpendicular cliffs or sides, astonishing +to behold. Most or our winged companions had now left us; the grey +albatrosses only remained; and, instead of the other birds, we were visited +by a few antarctic peterels. + +The 22d we steered E.S.E. with a fresh gale at north, blowing in squalls, +one of which took hold of the mizen top-sail, tore it all to rags, and +rendered it forever after useless. At six o'clock in the morning, the wind +veering towards the west, our course was east northerly. At this time we +were in the latitude of 67 deg. 31', the highest we had yet been in, longitude +142 deg. 54' W. + +We continued our course to the E. by N. till noon, the 23d, when being in +the latitude of 67 deg. 12', longitude 138 deg. 0', we steered S.E.; having then +twenty-three ice islands in sight, from off the deck, and twice that number +from the mast-head; and yet we could not see above two or three miles round +us. At four o'clock in the afternoon, in the latitude of 67 deg. 20', longitude +137 deg. 12', we fell in with such a quantity of field, or loose ice, as +covered the sea in the whole extent from south to east, and was so thick +and close as wholly to obstruct our passage. At this time, the wind being +pretty moderate, and the sea smooth, we brought-to, at the outer edge of +the ice, hoisted out two boats, and sent them to take some up. In the mean +time, we laid hold of several large pieces along-side, and got them on +board with our tackle. The taking up ice proved such cold work, that it was +eight o'clock by the time the boats had made two trips, when we hoisted +them in, and made sail to the west, under double-reefed top-sails and +courses, with a strong gale at north, attended with snow and sleet, which +froze to the rigging as it fell, making the ropes like wires, and the sails +like boards or plates of metal. The sheaves also were frozen so fast in the +blocks, that it required our utmost efforts to get a top-sail down and up; +the cold so intense as hardly to be endured; the whole sea, in a manner, +covered with ice; a hard gale, and a thick fog. + +Under all these unfavourable circumstances, it was natural for me to think +of returning more to the north; seeing no probability of finding any land +here, nor a possibility of getting farther south. And to have proceeded to +the east in this latitude, must have been wrong, not only on account of the +ice, but because we must have left a vast space of sea to the north +unexplored, a space of 24 deg. of latitude; in which a large tract of land +might have lain. Whether such a supposition was well-grounded, could only +be determined by visiting those parts. + +While we were taking up ice, we got two of the antarctic peterels so often +mentioned, by which our conjectures were confirmed of their being of the +peterel tribe. They are about the size of a large pigeon; the feathers of +the head, back, and part of the upper side of the wings, are of a light- +brown; the belly, and under side of the wings white, the tail feathers are +also white, but tipped with brown; at the same time, we got another new +peterel, smaller than the former, and all of a dark-grey plumage. We +remarked that these birds were fuller of feathers than any we had hitherto +seen; such care has nature taken to clothe them suitably to the climate in +which they live. At the same time we saw a few chocolate-coloured +albatrosses; these, as well as the peterels above-mentioned, we no where +saw but among the ice; hence one may with reason conjecture that there is +land to the south. If not, I must ask where these birds breed? A question +which perhaps will never be determined; for hitherto we have found these +lands, if any, quite inaccessible. Besides these birds, we saw a very large +seal, which kept playing about us some time. One of our people who had been +at Greenland, called it a sea-horse; but every one else took it for what I +have said. Since our first falling in with the ice, the mercury in the +thermometer had been from 33 to 31 at noon-day. + +On the 24th, the wind abated, veering to the N.W., and the sky cleared up, +in the latitude of 67 deg. 0' longitude 138 deg. 15'. As we advanced to the N.E. +with a gentle gale at N.W., the ice islands increased so fast upon us, that +this day, at noon, we could see near 100 round us, besides an immense +number of small pieces. Perceiving that it was likely to be calm, I got the +ship into as clear a birth as I could, where she drifted along with the +ice, and by taking the advantage of every light air of wind, was kept from +falling aboard any of these floating isles. Here it was we spent Christmas +day, much in the same manner as we did the preceding one. We were fortunate +in having continual day-light, and clear weather, for had it been as foggy +as on some of the preceding days, nothing less than a miracle could have +saved us from being dashed to pieces. + +In the morning of the 26th, the whole sea was in a manner covered with ice, +200 large islands, and upwards, being seen within the compass of four or +five miles, which was the limits of our horizon, besides smaller pieces +innumerable. Our latitude at noon was 66 deg. 15', longitude 134 deg. 22'. By +observation we found that the ship had drifted, or gone about 20 miles to +the N.E. or E.N.E.; whereas, by the ice islands, it appeared that she had +gone little or nothing; from which we concluded that the ice drifted nearly +in the same direction, and at the same rate. At four o'clock a breeze +sprung up at W.S.W., and enabled us to steer north, the most probable +course to extricate ourselves from these dangers. + +We continued our course to the north with a gentle breeze at west, attended +with clear weather, till four o'clock the next morning, when meeting with a +quantity of loose ice, we brought-to, and took on board as much as filled +all our empty casks, and for several days present expence. This done, we +made sail, and steered N.W. with a gentle breeze at N.E., clear frosty +weather. Our latitude at this time was 65 deg. 53' S., longitude 133 deg. 42' W.; +islands of ice not half so numerous as before. + +At four in the morning of the 28th, the wind having veered more to the E. +and S.E., increased to a fresh gale, and was attended with snow showers. +Our course was north till noon the next day. Being then in the latitude of +62 deg. 24', longitude 134 deg. 37', we steered N.W. by N. Some hours after, the +sky cleared up, and the wind abating, veered more to the south. + +On the 30th, had little wind westerly; dark gloomy weather; with snow and +sleet at times; several whales seen playing about the ship, but very few +birds; islands of ice in plenty, and a swell from W.N.W. + +On the 31st, little wind from the westward, fair and clear weather, which +afforded an opportunity to air the spare sails, and to clean and smoke the +ship between decks. At noon our latitude was 59 deg. 40' S., longitude 135 deg. 11' +W. Our observation to-day gave us reason to conjecture that we had a +southerly current. Indeed, this was no more than what might reasonably be +supposed, to account for such huge masses of ice being brought from the +south. In the afternoon we had a few hours calm, succeeded by a breeze from +the east, which enabled us to resume our N.W. by N. course. + +1774 January + +January 1st, the wind remained not long at east, but veered round by the +south to the west; blew fresh, attended with snow showers. In the evening, +being in the latitude of 58 deg. 39' S., we passed two islands of ice, after +which we saw no more till we stood again to the south. + +At five o'clock in the morning on the 2d, it fell calm; being at this time +in the latitude of 58 deg. 2', longitude 137 deg. 12'. The calm being succeeded by +a breeze at east, we steered N.W. by W. My reason for steering this course, +was to explore part of the great space of sea between us and our track to +the south. + +On the 3d, at noon, being in latitude 56 deg. 46', longitude 139 deg. 45', the +weather became fair, and the wind veered to S.W. About this time we saw a +few small divers (as we call them) of the peterel tribe, which we judged to +be such as are usually seen near land, especially in the bays, and on the +coast of New Zealand. I cannot tell what to think of these birds; had there +been more of them, I should have been ready enough to believe that we were, +at this time, not very far from land, as I never saw one so far from known +land before. Probably these few had been drawn thus far by some shoal of +fish; for such were certainly about us, by the vast number of blue +peterels, albatrosses, and such other birds as are usually seen in the +great ocean; all or most of which left us before night. Two or three pieces +of seaweed were also seen, but these appeared old and decayed. + +At eight o'clock in the evening, being in the latitude of 56 deg. S., longitude +140 deg. 31' W., the wind fixing in the western board, obliged us to steer +north-easterly, and laid me under the necessity of leaving unexplored a +space of the sea to the west, containing near 40 deg. of longitude, and half +that of latitude. Had the wind continued favourable, I intended to have run +15 or 20 degrees of longitude more to the west in the latitude we were then +in, and back again to the east in the latitude of 50 deg.. This route would +have so intersected the space above mentioned, as hardly to have left room +for the bare supposition of any land lying there. Indeed, as it was, we +have little reason to believe that there is; but rather the contrary, from +the great hollow swell we had had, for several days, from the W. and N.W., +though the wind had blown from a contrary direction great part of the time; +which is a great sign we had not been covered by any land between these two +points. + +While we were in the high latitudes, many of our people were attacked with +a slight fever, occasioned by colds. It happily yielded to the simplest +remedies; was generally removed in a few days; and, at this time, we had +not above one or two on the sick list. + +We proceeded N.E. by N. till the 6th, at noon. Being then in the latitude +of 52 deg. 0' S., longitude 135 deg. 32' W., and about 200 leagues from our track +to Otaheite, in which space it was not probable, all circumstances +considered, there is any extensive land, and it being still less probable +any lay to the west, from the great mountainous billows we had had, and +still continued to have, from that quarter, I therefore steered N.E., with +a fresh gale at W.S.W. + +At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 7th, being in the latitude of 50 deg. +49' S., we observed several distances of the sun and moon, which gave the +longitude as follows, viz. + +By Mr. Wales, 133 deg. 24' 0" West. + Gilbert, 133 10 0 + Clarke, 133 0 0 + Smith, 133 37 25 + Myself, 133 37 0 + ------------- + Mean, 133 21 43 + + By the Watch, 133 44 0 west. + My reckoning, 133 39 0 + ------------- +Variation of the compass, 6 2 0 East. + thermometer, 50 0 0 + +The next morning we observed again, and the results were agreeable to the +preceding observations, allowing for the ship's run. I must here take +notice, that our longitude can never be erroneous, while we have so good a +guide as Mr Kendall's watch. This day, at noon, we steered E.N.E. 1/2 E., +being then in the latitude of 49 deg. 7' S., longitude 131 deg. 2' W. + +On the 9th, in latitude 48 deg. 17' S., longitude 127 deg. 10' W., we steered east, +with a fine fresh gale at west, attended with clear pleasant weather, and a +great swell from the same direction as the wind. + +In the morning of the 10th, having but little wind, we put a boat in the +water, in which some of the officers went and shot several birds. These +afforded us a fresh meal; they were of the peterel tribe, and such as are +usually seen at any distance from land. Indeed, neither birds, nor any +other thing was to be seen, that could give us the least hopes of finding +any; and, therefore, at noon the next day, being then in the latitude of +47 deg. 51' S., longitude 122 deg. 12' W., and a little more than 200 leagues from +my track to Otaheite in 1769, I altered the course, and steered S.E., with +a fresh gale at S.W. by W. In the evening, when our latitude was 48 deg. 22' +S., longitude 121 deg. 29' W., we found the variation to be 2 deg. 34' E., which is +the least variation we had found without the tropic. In the evening of the +next day, we found it to be 4 deg. 30' E., our latitude, at that time, was 50 deg. +5' S., longitude 119 deg. 1/2 W. + +Our course was now more southerly, till the evening of the 13th, when we +were in the latitude of 53 deg. 0' S., longitude 118 deg. 3' W. The wind being then +at N.W. a strong gale with a thick fog and rain, which made it unsafe to +steer large, I hauled up S.W., and continued this course till noon the next +day, when our latitude was 56 deg. 4' S., longitude 122 deg. 1' W. The wind having +veered to the north, and the fog continuing, I hauled to the east, under +courses and close-reefed top-sails. But this sail we could not carry long; +for before eight o'clock in the evening, the wind increased to a perfect +storm, and obliged us to lie-to, under the mizen-stay-sail, till the +morning of the 16th, when the wind having a good deal abated, and veered to +west, we set the courses, reefed top-sails, and stood to the south. Soon +after, the weather cleared up, and, in the evening, we found the latitude +to be 56 deg. 48' S., longitude 119 deg. 8' W. We continued to steer to the +south, inclining to the east, till the 18th, when we stood to the S.W., +with the wind at S.E., being at this time in the latitude of 61 deg. 9' S., +longitude 116 deg. 7' W. At ten o'clock in the evening, it fell calm, which +continued till two the next morning, when a breeze sprung up at north, +which soon after increased to a fresh gale, and fixed at N.E. With this we +steered south till noon on the 20th, when, being now in the latitude of 62 deg. +34' S., longitude 116 deg. 24' W., we were again becalmed. + +In this situation we had two ice islands in sight, one of which seemed to +be as large as any we had seen. It could not be less than two hundred feet +in height, and terminated in a peak not unlike the cupola of St Paul's +church. At this time we had a great westerly swell, which made it +improbable that any land should lie between us and the meridian of 133 deg. +1/2, which was our longitude, under the latitude we were now in, when we +stood to the north. In all this route we had not seen the least thing that +could induce us to think we were ever in the neighbourhood of any land. We +had, indeed, frequently seen pieces of sea-weed; but this, I am well +assured, is no sign of the vicinity of land; for weed is seen in every part +of the ocean. After a few hours calm, we got a wind from S.E.; but it was +very unsettled, and attended with thick snow-showers; at length it fixed at +S. by E., and we stretched to the east. The wind blew fresh, was piercing +cold, and attended with snow and sleet. On the 22d, being in the latitude +of 62 deg. 5' S., longitude 112 deg. 24' W., we saw an ice island, an antartic +peterel, several blue peterels, and some other known birds; but no one +thing that gave us the least hopes of finding land. + +On the 23d, at noon, we were in the latitude of 62 deg. 22' S., longitude 110 deg. +24'. In the afternoon, we passed an ice island. The wind, which blew fresh, +continued to veer to the west; and at eight o'clock the next morning it was +to the north of west, when I steered S. by W. and S.S.W. At this time we +were in the latitude of 63 deg. 20' S., longitude 108 deg. 7' W., and had a great +sea from S.W. We continued this course till noon the next day, the 25th, +when we steered due south. Our latitude, at this time, was 65 deg. 24' S., +longitude 109 deg. 31' W.; the wind was at north; the weather mild and not +unpleasant; and not a bit of ice in view. This we thought a little +extraordinary, as it was but a month before, and not quite two hundred +leagues to the east, that we were in a manner blocked up with large islands +of ice in this very latitude. Saw a single pintadoe peterel, some blue +peterels, and a few brown albatrosses. In the evening, being under the same +meridian, and in the latitude of 65 deg. 44' S., the variation was 19 deg. 27' E.; +but the next morning, in the latitude of 66 deg. 20' S., longitude the same as +before, it was only 18 deg. 20' E.; probably the mean between the two is the +nearest the truth. At this time, we had nine small islands in sight; and +soon after we came, the third time, within the antartic polar circle, in +the longitude of 109 deg. 31' W. About noon, seeing the appearance of land to +the S.E., we immediately trimmed our sails and stood towards it. Soon after +it disappeared, but we did not give it up till eight o'clock the next +morning, when we were well assured that it was nothing but clouds, or a fog +bank; and then we resumed our course to the south, with a gentle breeze at +N.E., attended with a thick fog, snow, and sleet. + +We now began to meet with ice islands more frequently than before; and, in +the latitude of 69 deg. 38' S., longitude 108 deg. 12' W., we fell in with a field +of loose ice. As we began to be in want of water, I hoisted out two boats +and took up as much as yielded about ten tons. This was cold work, but it +was now familiar to us. As soon as we had done, we hoisted in the boats, +and afterwards made short boards over that part of the sea we had in some +measure made ourselves acquainted with. For we had now so thick a fog, that +we could not see two hundred yards round us; and as we knew not the extent +of the loose ice, I durst not steer to the south till we had clear weather. +Thus we spent the night, or rather that part of twenty-four hours which +answered to night; for we had no darkness but what was occasioned by fogs. + +At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, the fog began to clear away; +and the day becoming clear and serene, we again steered to the south with a +gentle gale at N.E. and N.N.E. The variation was found to be 22 deg. 41' E. +This was in the latitude of 69 deg. 45' S., longitude 108 deg. 5' W.; and, in the +afternoon, being in the same longitude, and in the latitude of 70 deg. 23' S., +it was 24 deg. 31' E. Soon after, the sky became clouded, and the air very +cold. We continued our course to the south, and passed a piece of weed +covered with barnacles, which a brown albatross was picking off. At ten +o'clock, we passed a very large ice island; it was not less than three or +four miles in circuit. Several more being seen a-head, and the weather +becoming foggy, we hauled the wind to the northward; but in less than two +hours, the weather cleared up, and we again stood south. + +On the 30th, at four o'clock in the morning, we perceived the clouds, over +the horizon to the south, to be of an unusual snow-white brightness, which +we knew denounced our approach to field-ice. Soon after, it was seen from +the top-mast-head; and at eight o'clock, we were close to its edge. It +extended east and west, far beyond the reach of our sight. In the situation +we were in, just the southern half of our horizon was illuminated, by the +rays of light reflected from the ice, to a considerable height. Ninety- +seven ice hills were distinctly seen within the field, besides those on the +outside; many of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, +rising one above another till they were lost in the clouds. The outer or +northern edge of this immense field, was composed of loose or broken ice +close packed together, so that it was not possible for any thing to enter +it. This was about a mile broad, within which, was solid ice in one +continued compact body. It was rather low and flat (except the hills), but +seemed to increase in height, as you traced it to the south; in which +direction it extended beyond our sight. Such mountains of ice as these, I +believe, were never seen in the Greenland seas, at least, not that I ever +heard or read of, so that we cannot draw a comparison between the ice here +and there. + +It must be allowed, that these prodigious ice mountains must add such +additional weight to the ice fields which inclose them, as cannot but make +a great difference between the navigating this icy sea and that of +Greenland. + +I will not say it was impossible any where to get farther to the south; but +the attempting it would have been a dangerous and rash enterprise, and +what, I believe, no man in my situation would have thought of. It was, +indeed, _my_ opinion, as well as the opinion of most on board, that +this ice extended quite to the pole, or perhaps joined on some land, to +which it had been fixed from the earliest time; and that it is here, that +is to the south of this parallel, where all the ice we find scattered up +and down to the north, is first formed, and afterwards broken off by gales +of wind, or other causes, and brought to the north by the currents, which +we always found to set in that direction in the high latitudes. As we drew +near this ice some penguins were heard, but none seen; and but few other +birds or any other thing that could induce us to think any land was near. +And yet I think, there must be some to the south behind this ice; but if +there is, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other animals, +than the ice itself, with which it must be wholly covered. I, who had +ambition not only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far as +it was possible for man to go, was not sorry at meeting with this +interruption, as it in some measure relieved us, at least shortened the +dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation of the southern polar +regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed one inch farther to the +south, no other reason need be assigned for my tacking and standing back to +the north; being at this time in the latitude of 71 deg. 10' S., longitude 106 deg. +54' W. + +It was happy for us that the weather was clear when we fell in with this +ice, and that we discovered it so soon as we did; for we had no sooner +tacked than we were involved in a thick fog. The wind was at east, and blew +a fresh breeze, so that we were enabled to return back over that space we +had already made ourselves acquainted with. At noon, the mercury in the +thermometer stood at 32-1/2, and we found the air exceedingly cold. The +thick fog continuing with showers of snow, gave a coat of ice to our +rigging of near an inch thick. In the afternoon of the next day the fog +cleared away at intervals; but the weather was cloudy and gloomy, and the +air excessively cold; however, the sea within our horizon was clear of ice. + +1774 February + +We continued to stand to the north, with the wind easterly, till the +afternoon on the first of February, when falling in with some loose ice +which had been broken from an island to windward we hoisted out two boats, +and having taken some on board, resumed our course to the N. and N.E., with +gentle breezes from S.E., attended sometimes with fair weather, and at +other times with snow and sleet. On the 4th we were in the latitude of 65 deg. +42' S., longitude 99 deg. 44'. The next day the wind was very unsettled both in +strength and position, and attended with snow and sleet. At length, on the +6th, after a few hours calm, we got a breeze at south, which soon after +freshened, fixed at W.S.W., and was attended with snow and sleet. + +I now came to the resolution to proceed to the north, and to spend the +ensuing winter within the tropic, if I met with no employment before I came +there. I was now well satisfied no continent was to be found in this ocean, +but what must lie so far to the south, as to be wholly inaccessible on +account of ice; and that if one should be found in the southern Atlantic +Ocean, it would be necessary to have the whole summer before us to explore +it. On the other hand, upon a supposition that there is no land there, we +undoubtedly might have reached the Cape of Good Hope by April, and so have +put an end to the expedition, so far as it related to the finding a +continent; which indeed was the first object of the voyage. But for me at +this time to have quitted the southern Pacific Ocean, with a good ship +expressly sent out on discoveries, a healthy crew, and not in want either +of stores or of provisions, would have been betraying not only a want of +perseverance, but of judgment, in supposing the south Pacific Ocean to have +been so well explored, that nothing remained to be done in it. This, +however, was not my opinion; for though I had proved that there was no +continent but what must lie far to the south, there remained nevertheless +room for very large islands in places wholly unexamined; and many of those +which were formerly discovered, are but imperfectly explored, and their +situations as imperfectly known. I was besides of opinion, that my +remaining in this sea some time longer, would be productive of improvements +in navigation and geography, as well as in other sciences. I had several +times communicated my thoughts on this subject to Captain Furneaux; but as +it then wholly depended on what we might meet with to the south, I could +not give it in orders, without running a risk of drawing us from the main +object. Since now nothing had happened to prevent me from, carrying these +views into execution, my intention was first to go in search of the land +said to have been discovered by Juan Fernandez, above a century ago, in +about the latitude of 38 deg.; if I should fail in finding this land, then to +go in search of Easter Island or Davis's Land, whose situation was known +with so little certainty, that the attempts lately made to find it had +miscarried. I next intended to get within the tropic, and then proceed to +the west, touching at, and settling the situations of such islands as we +might meet with till we arrived at Otaheite, where it was necessary I +should stop to look for the Adventure. I had also thoughts of running as +far west as the Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo, discovered by Quiros, +and which M. de Bougainville calls the Great Cyclades. Quiros speaks of +this land as being large, or lying in the neighbourhood of large lands; and +as this was a point which M. de Bougainville had neither confirmed nor +refuted, I thought it was worth clearing up. From this land my design was +to steer to the south, and so back to the east, between the latitudes of +50 deg. and 60 deg.; intending, if possible, to be the length of Cape Horn in +November next, when we should have the best part of the summer before us to +explore the southern part of the Atlantic Ocean. Great as this design +appeared to be, I however thought it possible to be executed; and when I +came to communicate it to the officers, I had the satisfaction to find, +that they all heartily concurred in it. I should not do these gentlemen +justice, if I did not take some opportunity to declare, that they always +shewed the utmost readiness to carry into execution, in the most effectual +manner, every measure I thought proper to take. Under such circumstances, +it is hardly necessary to say, that the seamen were always obedient and +alert; and, on this occasion, they were so far from wishing the voyage at +an end, that they, rejoiced at the prospect of its being prolonged another +year, and of soon enjoying the benefits of a milder climate. + +I now steered north, inclining to the east, and in the evening we were +overtaken with a furious storm at W.S.W., attended with snow and sleet. It +came so suddenly upon us, that before we could take in our sails, two old +top-sails, which we had bent to the yards, were blown to pieces, and the +other sails much damaged. The gale lasted, without the least intermission, +till the next morning, when it began to abate; it continued, however, to +blow very fresh till noon on the 12th, when it ended in a calm. + +At this time we were in the latitude of 50 deg. 14' S., longitude 95 deg. 18' W. +Some birds being about the ship, we took the advantage of the calm to put a +boat in the water, and shot several birds, on which we feasted the next +day. One of these birds was of that sort which has been so often mentioned +in this journal under the name of Port Egmont hens. They are of the gull +kind, about the size of a raven, with a dark-brown plumage, except the +under-side of each wing, where there are some white feathers. The rest of +the birds were albatrosses and sheer-waters. + +After a few hours calm, having got a breeze at N.W., we made a stretch to +the S.W. for twenty-four hours; in which route we saw a piece of wood, a +bunch of weed, and a diving peterel. The wind having veered more to the +west, made us tack and stretch to the north till noon on the 14th, at which +time we were in the latitude of 49 deg. 32' S., longitude 95 deg. 11' W. We had now +calms and light breezes, succeeding each other, till the next morning, when +the wind freshened at W.N.W., and was attended with a thick fog and +drizzling rain the three following days, during which time we stretched to +the north, inclining to the east, and crossed my track to Otaheite in 1769. +I did intend to have kept more to the west, but the strong winds from that +direction put it out of my power. + +On the 18th, the wind veered to S.W., and blew very fresh, but was attended +with clear weather, which gave us an opportunity to ascertain our longitude +by several lunar observations made by Messrs Wales, Clarke, Gilbert, and +Smith. The mean result of all, was 94 deg. 19' 30" W.; Mr Kendal's watch, at +the same time, gave 94 deg. 46' W.; our latitude was 43 deg. 53' S. The wind +continued not long at S.W. before it veered back to the west and W.N.W. + +As we advanced to the north, we felt a most sensible change in the weather. +The 20th, at noon, we were in the latitude of 39 deg. 58' S., longitude 94 deg. 37' +W. The day was clear and pleasant, and I may say, the only summer's day we +had had since we left New Zealand. The mercury in the thermometer rose to +66. + +We still continued to steer to the north, as the wind remained in the old +quarter; and the next day, at noon, we were in the latitude 37 deg. 54' S.; +which was the same that Juan Fernandez's discovery is said to lie in. We, +however, had not the least signs of any land lying in our neighbourhood. + +The next day at noon, we were in latitude 36 deg. 10' S., longitude 94 deg. 56' W. +Soon after, the wind veered to S.S.E., and enabled us to steer W.S.W., +which I thought the most probable direction to find the land of which we +were in search; and yet I had no hopes of succeeding, as we had a large +hollow swell from the same point. We however continued this course till the +25th, when the wind having veered again round to the westward, I gave it +up, and stood away to the north, in order to get into the latitude of +Easter Island: our latitude, at this time, was 37 deg. 52', longitude 101 deg. 10' +W. + +I was now well assured that the discovery of Juan Fernandez, if any such +was ever made, can be nothing but a small island; there being hardly room +for a large land, as will fully appear by the tracks of Captain Wallis, +Bougainville, of the Endeavour, and this of the Resolution. Whoever wants +to see an account of the discovery in question, will meet with it in Mr +Dalrymple's collection of voyages to the south seas. This gentleman places +it under the meridian of 90 deg., where I think it cannot be; for M. de +Bougainville seems to have run down under that meridian; and we had now +examined the latitude in which it is said to lie, from the meridian of 94 deg. +to 101 deg.. It is not probable it can lie to the east of 90 deg.; because if it +did, it must have been seen, at one time or other, by ships bound from the +northern to the southern parts of America. Mr Pengre, in a little treatise +concerning the transit of Venus, published in 1768, gives some account of +land having been discovered by the Spaniards in 1714, in the latitude of +38 deg., and 550 leagues from the coast of Chili, which is in the longitude of +110 deg. or 111 deg. west, and within a degree or two of my track in the Endeavour; +so that this can hardly be its situation. In short, the only probable +situation it can have must be about the meridian of 106 deg. or 108 deg. west; and +then it can only be a small isle, as I have already observed. + +I was now taken ill of the bilious cholic, which was so violent as to +confine me to my bed, so that the management of the ship was left to Mr +Cooper the first officer, who conducted her very much to my satisfaction. +It was several days before the most dangerous symptoms of my disorder were +removed; during which time, Mr Patten the surgeon was to me, not only a +skilful physician, but an affectionate nurse; and I should ill deserve the +care he bestowed on me, if I did not make this public acknowledgment. When +I began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr Forster fell a +sacrifice to my tender stomach. We had no other fresh meat on board, and I +could eat of this flesh, as well as broth made of it, when I could taste +nothing else. Thus I received nourishment and strength from food which +would have made most people in Europe sick: So true it is, that necessity +is governed by no law. + +On the 28th, in the latitude of 33 deg. 7' S., longitude 102 deg. 33' W., we began +to see flying-fish, egg-birds, and nodies, which are said not to go above +sixty or eighty leagues from land; but of this we have no certainty. No one +yet knows to what distance any of the oceanic birds go to sea; for my own +part, I do not believe there is one in the whole tribe that can be relied +on, in pointing out the vicinity of land. + +In the latitude of 30 deg. 30' S., longitude 101 deg. 45' W., we began to see men- +of-war birds. In the latitude of 29 deg. 44', longitude 100 deg. 45' W., we had a +calm for nearly two days together, during which time the heat was +intolerable; but what ought to be remarked, there was a great swell from +the S.W. + +1774 March + +On the 6th of March, the calm was succeeded by an easterly wind, with which +we steered N.W. till noon the 8th, when being in the latitude of 27 deg. 4' S., +longitude 103 deg. 58' W., we steered west; meeting every day with great +numbers of birds, such as men-of-war, tropic, and egg-birds, podies, +sheer-waters, &c. and once we passed several pieces of sponge, and a small +dried leaf not unlike a bay one. Soon after, we saw a sea-snake, in every +respect like those we had before seen at the tropical islands. We also saw +plenty of fish, but we were such bad fishers that we caught only four +albacores, which were very acceptable, to me especially, who was just +recovering from my late illness. + +CHAPTER VII. + +_Sequel of the Passage from New Zealand to Easter Island, and +Transactions there, with an Account of an Expedition to discover the Inland +Part of the Country, and a Description of some of the surprising gigantic +Statues found in the Island._ + +1774 March + +At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 11th, land was seen, from the mast- +head, bearing west, and at noon from the deck, extending from W. 3/4 N. to +W. by S., about twelve leagues distant. I made no doubt that this was +Davis's Land, or Easter Island; as its appearance from this situation, +corresponded very well with Wafer's account; and we expected to have seen +the low sandy isle that Davis fell in with, which would have been a +confirmation; but in this we were disappointed. At seven o'clock in the +evening, the island bore from north 62 deg. W., to north 87 deg. W., about five +leagues distant; in which situation, we sounded without finding ground with +a line of an hundred and forty fathoms. Here we spent the night, having +alternately light airs and calms, till ten o'clock the next morning, when a +breeze sprung up at W.S.W. With this we stretched in for the land; and by +the help of our glass, discovered people, and some of those Colossean +statues or idols mentioned in the account of Roggewein's voyage. At four +o'clock p.m. we were half a league S.S.E. and N.N.W. of the N.E. point of +the island; and, on sounding, found thirty-five fathoms, a dark sandy +bottom. I now tacked, and endeavoured to get into what appeared to be a +bay, on the west side of the point or S.E. side of the island; but before +this could be accomplished, night came upon us, and we stood on and off, +under the land, till the next morning; having sounding from seventy-five to +an hundred and ten fathoms, the same bottom as before. + +On the 13th, about eight o'clock in the morning, the wind, which had been +variable most part of the night, fixed at S.E., and blew in squalls, +accompanied with rain; but it was not long before the weather became fair. +As the wind now blew right to the S.E. shore, which does not afford that +shelter I at first thought, I resolved to look for anchorage on the west +and N.W. sides of the island. With this view I bore up round the south +point, off which lie two small islets, the one nearest the point high and +peaked, and the other low and flattish. After getting round the point, and +coming before a sandy beach, we found soundings thirty and forty fathoms, +sandy ground, and about one mile from the shore. Here a canoe, conducted by +two men, came off to us. They brought with them a bunch of plantains, which +they sent into the ship by a rope, and then they returned ashore. This gave +us a good opinion of the islanders, and inspired us with hopes of getting +some refreshments, which we were in great want of. + +I continued to range along the coast, till we opened the northern point of +the isle, without seeing a better anchoring-place than the one we had +passed. We therefore tacked, and plied back to it; and, in the mean time, +sent away the master in a boat to sound the coast. He returned about five +o'clock in the evening; and soon after we came to an anchor in thirty-six +fathoms water, before the sandy beach above mentioned. As the master drew +near the shore with the boat, one of the natives swam off to her, and +insisted on coming a-board the ship, where he remained two nights and a +day. The first thing he did after coming a-board, was to measure the length +of the ship, by fathoming her from the tafferel to the stern, and as he +counted the fathoms, we observed that he called the numbers by the same +names that they do at Otaheite; nevertheless his language was in a manner +wholly unintelligible to all of us. + +Having anchored too near the edge of a bank, a fresh breeze from the land, +about three o'clock the next morning, drove us off it; on which the anchor +was heaved up, and sail made to regain the bank again. While the ship was +plying in, I went ashore, accompanied by some of the gentlemen, to see what +the island was likely to afford us. We landed at the sandy beach, where +some hundreds of the natives were assembled, and who were so impatient to +see us, that many of them swam off to meet the boats. Not one of them had +so much as a stick or weapon of any sort in their hands. After distributing +a few trinkets amongst them, we made signs for something to eat, on which +they brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar canes, and exchanged +them for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces of cloth. + +We presently discovered that they were as expert thieves and as tricking in +their exchanges, as any people we had yet met with. It was with some +difficulty we could keep the hats on our heads; but hardly possible to keep +any thing in our pockets, not even what themselves had sold us; for they +would watch every opportunity to snatch it from us, so that we sometimes +bought the same thing two or three times over, and after all did not get +it. + +Before I sailed from England, I was informed that a Spanish ship had +visited this isle in 1769. Some signs of it were seen among the people now +about us; one man had a pretty good broad-brimmed European hat on, another +had a grego jacket, and another a red silk handkerchief. They also seemed +to know the use of a musquet, and to stand in much awe of it; but this they +probably learnt from Roggewein, who, if we are to believe the authors of +that voyage, left them sufficient tokens. + +Near the place where we landed, were some of those statues before +mentioned, which I shall describe in another place. The country appeared +barren and without wood; there were, nevertheless, several plantations of +potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes; we also saw some fowls, and found a +well of brackish water. As these were articles we were in want of, and as +the natives seemed not unwilling to part with them, I resolved to stay a +day or two. With this view I repaired on board, and brought the ship to an +anchor in thirty-two fathoms water; the bottom a fine dark sand. Our +station was about a mile from the nearest shore, the south point of a small +bay, in the bottom of which is the sandy beach before mentioned, being +E.S.E., distant one mile and a-half. The two rocky islets lying off the +south point of the island, were just shut behind a point to the north of +them; they bore south 3/4 west, four miles distant; and the other extreme +of the island bore north 25 deg. E., distant about six miles. But the best mark +for this anchoring-place is the beach, because it is the only one on this +side of the island. In the afternoon, we got on board a few casks of water, +and opened a trade with the natives for such things as they had to dispose +of. Some of the gentlemen also made an excursion into the country to see +what it produced; and returned again in the evening, with the loss only of +a hat, which one of the natives snatched off the head of one of the +party. + +Early next morning, I sent Lieutenants Pickersgill and Edgecumbe with a +party of men, accompanied by several of the gentlemen, to examine the +country. As I was not sufficiently recovered from my late illness to make +one of the party, I was obliged to content myself with remaining at the +landing-place among the natives. We had, at one time, a pretty brisk trade +with them for potatoes, which we observed they dug up out of an adjoining +plantation; but this traffic, which was very advantageous to us, was soon +put a stop to by the owner (as we supposed) of the plantation coming down, +and driving all the people out of it. By this we concluded, that he had +been robbed of his property, and that they were not less scrupulous of +stealing from one another, than from us, on whom they practised every +little fraud they could think of, and generally with success; for we no +sooner detected them in one, than they found out another. About seven +o'clock in the evening, the party I had sent into the country returned, +after having been over the greatest part of the island. + +They left the beach about nine o'clock in the morning, and took a path +which led across to the S.E. side of the island, followed by a great crowd +of the natives, who pressed much upon them. But they had not proceeded far, +before a middle-aged man, punctured from head to foot, and his face painted +with a sort of white pigment, appeared with a spear in his hand, and walked +along-side of them, making signs to his countrymen to keep at a distance, +and not to molest our people. When he had pretty well effected this, he +hoisted a piece of white cloth on his spear, placed himself in the front, +and led the way, with his ensign of peace, as they understood it to be. For +the greatest part of the distance across, the ground had but a barren +appearance, being a dry hard clay, and every where covered with stones; but +notwithstanding this, there were several large tracts planted with +potatoes; and some plantain walks, but they saw no fruit on any of the +trees. Towards the highest part of the south end of the island, the soil, +which was a fine red earth, seemed much better, bore a longer grass, and +was not covered with stones as in the other parts; but here they saw +neither house nor plantation. + +On the east side, near the sea, they met with three platforms of stone- +work, or rather the ruins of them. On each had stood four of those large +statues, but they were all fallen down from two of them, and also one from +the third; all except one were broken by the fall, or in some measure +defaced. Mr Wales measured this one, and found it to be fifteen feet in +length, and six feet broad over the shoulders, Each statue had on its head +a large cylindric stone of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The one +they measured, which was not by far the largest, was fifty-two inches high, +and sixty-six in diameter. In some, the upper corner of the cylinder was +taken off in a sort of concave quarter-round, but in others the cylinder +was entire. + +From this place they followed the direction of the coast to the N.E., the +man with the flag still leading the way. For about three miles they found +the country very barren, and in some places stript of the soil to the bare +rock, which seemed to be a poor sort of iron ore. Beyond this, they came to +the most fertile part of the island they saw, it being interspersed with +plantations of potatoes, sugar-canes, and plantain trees, and these not so +much encumbered with stones as those which they had seen before; but they +could find no water except what the natives twice or thrice brought them, +which, though brackish and stinking, was rendered acceptable, by the +extremity of their thirst. They also passed some huts, the owners of which +met them with roasted potatoes and sugar-canes, and, placing themselves a- +head of the foremost party (for they marched in a line in order to have the +benefit of the path), gave one to each man as he passed by. They observed +the same method in distributing the water which they brought; and were +particularly careful that the foremost did not drink too much, lest none +should be left for the hindmost. But at the very time these were relieving +the thirsty and hungry, there were not wanting others who endeavoured to +steal from them the very things which had been given them. At last, to +prevent worse consequences, they were obliged to fire a load of small shot +at one who was so audacious as to snatch from one of the men the bag which +contained every thing they carried with them. The shot hit him on the back, +on which he dropped the bag, ran a little way, and then fell; but he +afterwards got up and walked, and what became of him they knew not, nor +whether he was much wounded. As this affair occasioned some delay, and drew +the natives together, they presently saw the man who had hitherto led the +way and one or two more, coming running towards them; but instead of +stopping when they came up, they continued to run round them, repeating, in +a kind manner, a few words, until our people set forwards again. Then their +old guide hoisted his flag, leading the way as before, and none ever +attempted to steal from them the whole day afterwards. As they passed +along, they observed on a hill a number of people collected together, some +of whom had spears in their hands; but on their being called to by their +countrymen, they dispersed, except a few, amongst whom was one seemingly of +some note. He was a stout well-made man, with a fine open countenance, his +face was painted, his body punctured, and he wore a better _Ha hou_, +or cloth, than the rest. He saluted them as he came up, by stretching out +his arms, with both hands clenched, lifting them over his head, opening +them wide, and then letting them fall gradually down to his sides. To this +man, whom they understood to be chief of the island, their other friend +gave his white flag, and he gave him another, who carried it before them +the remainder of the day. + +Towards the eastern end of the island, they met with a well whose water was +perfectly fresh, being considerably above the level of the sea; but it was +dirty, owing to the filthiness or cleanliness (call it which you will) of +the natives, who never go to drink without washing themselves all over as +soon as they have done; and if ever so many of them are together, the first +leaps right into the middle of the hole, drinks, and washes himself without +the least ceremony; after which another takes his place and does the same. + +They observed that this side of the island was full of those gigantic +statues so often mentioned; some placed in groupes on platforms of masonry, +others single, fixed only in the earth, and that not deep; and these latter +are, in general, much larger than the others. Having measured one, which +had fallen down, they found it very near twenty-seven feet long, and +upwards of eight feet over the breast or shoulders; and yet this appeared +considerably short of the size of one they saw standing; its shade, a +little past two o'clock, being sufficient to shelter all the party, +consisting of near thirty persons, from the rays of the sun. Here they +stopped to dine; after which they repaired to a hill, from whence they saw +all the east and north shores of the isle, on which they could not see +either bay or creek fit even for a boat to land in; nor the least signs of +fresh water. What the natives brought them here was real salt water; but +they observed that some of them drank pretty plentifully of it, so far will +necessity and custom get the better of nature! On this account they were +obliged to return to the last-mentioned well, where, after having quenched +their thirst, they directed their route across the island towards the ship, +as it was now four o'clock. + +In a small hollow, on the highest part of the island, they met with several +such cylinders as are placed on the heads of the statues. Some of these +appeared larger than any they had seen before; but it was now too late to +stop to measure any of them. Mr Wales, from whom I had this information, is +of opinion that there had been a quarry here, whence these stones had +formerly been dug; and that it would have been no difficult matter to roll +them down the hill after they were formed. I think this a very reasonable +conjecture, and have no doubt that it has been so. + +On the declivity of the mountain towards the west, they met with another +well, but the water was a very strong mineral, had a thick green scum on +the top, and stunk intolerably. Necessity, however, obliged some to drink +of it; but it soon made them so sick, that they threw it up the same way +that it went down. + +In all this excursion, as well as the one made the preceding day, only two +or three shrubs were seen. The leaf and seed of one (called by the natives +_Torromedo_) were not much unlike those of the common vetch; but the +pod was more like that of a tamarind in its size and shape. The seeds have +a disagreeable bitter taste; and the natives, when they saw our people chew +them, made signs to spit them out; from whence it was concluded that they +think them poisonous. The wood is of a reddish colour, and pretty hard and +heavy, but very crooked, small, and short, not exceeding six or seven feet +in height. At the S.W. corner of the island, they found another small +shrub, whose wood was white and brittle, and in some measure, as also its +leaf, resembling the ash. They also saw in several places the Otaheitean +cloth plant, but it was poor and weak, and not above two and a half feet +high at most. + +They saw not an animal of any sort, and but very few birds; nor indeed any +thing which can induce ships that are not in the utmost distress, to touch +at this island. + +This account of the excursion I had from Mr Pickersgill and Mr Wales, men +on whose veracity I could depend; and therefore I determined to leave the +island the next morning, since nothing was to be obtained that could make +it worth my while to stay longer; for the water which we had sent on board, +was not much better than if it had been taken up out of the sea. + +We had a calm till ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, when a breeze +sprung up at west, accompanied with heavy showers of rain, which lasted +about an hour. The weather then clearing up, we got under sail, stood to +sea, and kept plying to and fro, while an officer was sent on shore with +two boats, to purchase such refreshments as the natives might have brought +down; for I judged this would be the case, as they knew nothing of our +sailing. The event proved that I was not mistaken; for the boats made two +trips before night, when we hoisted them in, and made sail to the N.W., +with a light breeze at N.N.E. + +CHAPTER VIII. + +_A Description of the Island, and its Produce, Situation, and +Inhabitants; their Manners and Customs; Conjectures concerning their +Government, Religion, and other Subjects; with a more particular Account of +the gigantic Statues._ + +1774 March + +I shall now give some farther account of this island, which is undoubtedly +the same that Admiral Roggewein touched at in April 1722; although the +description given of it by the authors of that voyage does by no means +agree with it now. It may also be the same that was seen by Captain Davis +in 1686; for, when seen from the east, it answers very well to Wafer's +description, as I have before observed. In short, if this is not the land, +his discovery cannot lie far from the coast of America, as this latitude +has been well explored from the meridian of 80 deg. to 110 deg.. Captain Carteret +carried it much farther; but his track seems to have been a little too far +south. Had I found fresh water, I intended spending some days in looking +for the low sandy isle Davis fell in with, which would have determined the +point. But as I did not find water, and had a long run to make before I was +assured of getting any, and being in want of refreshments, I declined the +search; as a small delay might have been attended with bad consequences to +the crew, many of them beginning to be more or less affected with the +scurvy. + +No nation need contend for the honour of the discovery of this island, as +there can be few places which afford less convenience for shipping than it +does. Here is no safe anchorage, no wood for fuel, nor any fresh water +worth taking on board. Nature has been exceedingly sparing of her favours +to this spot. As every thing must be raised by dint of labour, it cannot be +supposed that the inhabitants plant much more than is sufficient for +themselves; and as they are but few in number, they cannot have much to +spare to supply the wants of visitant strangers. The produce is sweet +potatoes, yams, tara or eddy root, plantains, and sugar-canes, all pretty +good, the potatoes especially, which are the best of the kind I ever +tasted. Gourds they have also, but so very few, that a cocoa-nut shell was +the most valuable thing we could give them. They have a few tame fowls, +such as cocks and hens, small but well tasted. They have also rats, which +it seems they eat; for I saw a man with some dead ones in his hand, and he +seemed unwilling to part with them, giving me to understand they were for +food. Of land-birds there were hardly any, and sea-birds but few; these +were men-of-war, tropic, and egg-birds, noddies, tern, &c. The coast seemed +not to abound with fish, at least we could catch none with hook and line, +and it was but very little we saw among the natives. + +Such is the produce of Easter Island, or Davis's Land, which is situated in +latitude 27 deg. 5' 30" S., longitude 109 deg. 46' 20" W. It is about ten or twelve +leagues in circuit, hath a hilly and stony surface, and an iron-bound +shore. The hills are of such a height as to be seen fifteen or sixteen +leagues. Off the south end, are two rocky islets, lying near the shore. The +north and east points of the island rise directly from the sea to a +considerable height; between them and the S.E. side, the shore forms an +open bay, in which I believe the Dutch anchored. We anchored, as hath been +already mentioned, on the west side of the island, three miles to the north +of the south point, with the sandy beach bearing E.S.S. This is a very good +road with easterly winds, but a dangerous one with westerly; as the other +on the S.E. side must be with easterly winds. + +For this, and other bad accommodations already mentioned, nothing but +necessity will induce any one to touch at this isle, unless it can be done +without going much out of the way; in which case, touching here may be +advantageous, as the people willingly and readily part with such +refreshments as they have, and at an easy rate. We certainly received great +benefit from the little we got; but few ships can come here without being +in want of water, and this want cannot be here supplied. The little we took +on board, could not be made use of, it being only salt water which had +filtered through a stony beach into a stone well; this the natives had made +for the purpose, a little to the southward of the sandy beach so often +mentioned, and the water ebbed and flowed into it with the tide. + +The inhabitants of this island do not seem to exceed six or seven hundred +souls, and above two-thirds of those we saw were males. They either have +but few females amongst them, or else many were restrained from making +their appearance during our stay, for though we saw nothing to induce us to +believe the men were of a jealous disposition, or the women afraid to +appear in public, something of this kind was probably the case. + +In colour, features, and language, they bear such an affinity to the people +of the more western isles, that no one will doubt they have had the same +origin. It is extraordinary that the same nation should have spread +themselves over all the isles in this vast ocean, from New Zealand to this +island, which is almost one-fourth part of the circumference of the globe. +Many of them have now no other knowledge of each other, than what is +preserved by antiquated tradition; and they have, by length of time, +become, as it were, different nations, each having adopted some peculiar +custom or habit, &c. Nevertheless, a careful observer will soon see the +affinity each has to the other. In general, the people of this isle are a +slender race. I did not see a man that would measure six feet; so far are +they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewein's voyage +asserts. They are brisk and active, have good features, and not +disagreeable countenances; are friendly and hospitable to strangers, but as +much addicted to pilfering as any of their neighbours. + +_Tattowing_, or puncturing the skin, is much used here. The men are +marked from head to foot, with figures all nearly alike; only some give +them one direction, and some another, as fancy leads. The women are but +little punctured; red and white paint is an ornament with _them_, as +also with the men; the former is made of turmeric, but what composes the +latter I know not. + +Their clothing is a piece or two of quilted cloth, about six feet by four, +or a mat. One piece wrapped round their loins, and another over their +shoulders, make a complete dress. But the men, for the most part, are in a +manner naked, wearing nothing but a slip of cloth betwixt their legs, each +end of which is fastened to a cord or belt they wear round the waist. Their +cloth is made of the same materials as at Otaheite, viz. of the bark of the +cloth-plant; but, as they have but little of it, our Otaheitean cloth, or +indeed any sort of it, came here to a good market. + +Their hair in general is black; the women wear it long, and sometimes tied +up on the crown of the head; but the men wear it, and their beards, cropped +short. Their headdress is a round fillet adorned with feathers, and a straw +bonnet something like a Scotch one; the former, I believe, being chiefly +worn by the men, and the latter by the women. Both men and women have very +large holes, or rather slits, in their ears, extending to near three inches +in length. They sometimes turn this slit over the upper part, and then the +ear looks as if the flap was cut off. The chief ear-ornaments are the white +down of feathers, and rings, which they wear in the inside of the hole, +made of some elastic substance, rolled up like a watch-spring. I judged +this was to keep the hole at its utmost extension. I do not remember seeing +them wear any other ornaments, excepting amulets made of bone or shells. + +As harmless and friendly as these people seemed to be, they are not without +offensive weapons, such as short wooden clubs and spears; the latter of +which are crooked sticks about six feet long, armed at one end with pieces +of flint. They have also a weapon made of wood, like the _Patoo patoo_ +of New Zealand. + +Their houses are low miserable huts, constructed by setting sticks upright +in the ground, at six or eight feet distance, then bending them towards +each other, and tying them together at the top, forming thereby a kind of +Gothic arch. The longest sticks are placed in the middle, and shorter ones +each way, and a less distance asunder, by which means the building is +highest and broadest in the middle, and lower and narrower towards each +end. To these are tied others horizontally, and the whole is thatched over +with leaves of sugar-cane. The door-way is in the middle of one side, +formed like a porch, and so low and narrow, as just to admit a man to enter +upon all fours. The largest house I saw was about sixty feet long, eight or +nine feet high in the middle, and three or four at each end; its breadth, +at these parts, was nearly equal to its height. Some have a kind of vaulted +houses built with stone, and partly under ground; but I never was in one of +these. + +I saw no household utensils among them, except gourds, and of these but +very few. They were extravagantly fond of cocoa-nut shells, more so than of +any thing we could give them. They dress their victuals in the same manner +as at Otaheite; that is, with hot stones in an oven or hole in the ground. +The straw or tops of sugar-cane, plantain heads, &c. serve them for fuel to +heat the stones. Plantains, which require but little dressing, they roast +under fires of straw, dried grass, &c. and whole races of them are ripened +or roasted in this manner. We frequently saw ten or a dozen, or more, such +fires in one place, and most commonly in the mornings and evenings. + +Not more than three or four canoes were seen on the whole island, and these +very mean, and built of many pieces sewed together with small line. They +are about eighteen or twenty feet long, head and stem carved or raised a +little, are very narrow, and fitted with out-riggers. They do not seem +capable of carrying above four persons, and are by no means fit for any +distant navigation. As small and mean as these canoes were, it was a matter +of wonder to us, where they got the wood to build them with; for in one of +them was a board six or eight feet long, fourteen inches broad at one end, +and eight at the other; whereas we did not see a stick on the island that +would have made a board half this size, nor, indeed, was there another +piece in the whole canoe half so big. + +There are two ways by which it is possible they may have got this large +wood; it might have been left here by the Spaniards, or it might have been +driven on the shore of the island from some distant land. It is even +possible that there may be some land in the neighbourhood, from whence they +might have got it. We, however, saw no signs of any, nor could we get the +least information on this head from the natives, although we tried every +method we could think of to obtain it. We were almost as unfortunate in our +enquiries for the proper or native name of the island; for, on comparing +notes, I found we had got three different names for it, viz. Tamareki, +Whyhu, and Teapy. Without pretending to say which, or whether any of them +is right, I shall only observe, that the last was obtained by Oedidee, who +understood their language much better than any of us, though even he +understood it but very imperfectly. + +It appears by the account of Roggewein's voyage, that these people had no +better vessels than when he first visited them. The want of materials, and +not of genius, seems to be the reason why they have made no improvement in +this art. Some pieces of carving were found amongst them, both well +designed and executed. Their plantations are prettily laid out by line, +but not inclosed by any fence; indeed they have nothing for this purpose +but stones. + +I have no doubt that all these plantations are private property, and that +there are here, as at Otaheite, chiefs (which they call _Areekes_) to +whom these plantations belong. But of the power or authority of these +chiefs, or of the government of these people, I confess myself quite +ignorant. + +Nor are we better acquainted with their religion. The gigantic statues, so +often mentioned, are not, in my opinion, looked upon as idols by the +present inhabitants, whatever they might have been in the days of the +Dutch; at least I saw nothing that could induce me to think so. On the +contrary, I rather suppose that they are burying-places for certain tribes +or families. I, as well as some others, saw a human skeleton lying in one +of the platforms, just covered with stones. Some of these platforms of +masonry are thirty or forty feet long, twelve or sixteen broad, and from +three to twelve in height; which last in some measure depends on the nature +of the ground; for they are generally at the brink of the bank facing the +sea, so that this face may be ten or twelve feet or more high, and the +other may not be above three or four. They are built, or rather faced, with +hewn stones, of a very large size; and the workmanship is not inferior to +the best plain piece of masonry we have in England. They use no sort of +cement, yet the joints are exceedingly close, and the stones morticed and +tenanted one into another, in a very artful manner. The side-walls are not +perpendicular, but inclining a little inwards, in the same manner that +breast-works, &c. are built in Europe; yet had not all this care, pains, +and sagacity, been able to preserve these curious structures from the +ravages of all-devouring time. + +The statues, or at least many of them, are erected on these platforms, +which serve as foundations. They are, as near as we could judge, about half +length, ending in a sort of stump at the bottom, on which they stand. The +workmanship is rude, but not bad; nor are the features of the face ill +formed, the nose and chin in particular; but the ears are long beyond +proportion; and, as to the bodies, there is hardly any thing like a human +figure about them. + +I had an opportunity of examining only two or three of these statues, which +are near the landing-place; and they were of a grey stone, seemingly of the +same sort as that with which the platforms were built. But some of the +gentlemen, who travelled over the island, and examined many of them, were +of opinion that the stone of which they were made, was different from any +they saw on the island, and had much the appearance of being factitious. We +could hardly conceive how these islanders, wholly unacquainted with any +mechanical power, could raise such stupendous figures, and afterwards place +the large cylindric stones before mentioned upon their heads. The only +method I can conceive, is by raising the upper end by little and little, +supporting it by stones as it is raised, and building about it till they +got it erect; thus a sort of mount or scaffolding would be made, upon which +they might roll the cylinder, and place it upon the head of the statue, and +then the stones might be removed from about it. But if the stones are +factitious, the statues might have been put together on the place, in their +present position, and the cylinder put on by building a mount round them, +as above mentioned. But, let them have been made and set up by this or any +other method, they must have been a work of immense time, and sufficiently +shew the ingenuity and perseverance of these islanders in the age in which +they were built; for the present inhabitants have most certainly had no +hand in them, as they do not even repair the foundations of those which are +going to decay. They give different names to them, such as Gotomoara, +Marapate, Kanaro, Goway-too-goo, Matta Matta, &c. &c. to which they +sometimes prefix the word Moi, and sometimes annex Areeke. The latter +signifies chief, and the former burying, or sleeping-place, as well as we +could understand. + +Besides the monuments of antiquity, which were pretty numerous, and no +where but on or near the sea-coast, there were many little heaps of stones, +piled up in different places along the coast. Two or three of the uppermost +stones in each pile were generally white, perhaps always so, when the pile +is complete. It will hardly be doubted that these piles of stone had a +meaning; probably they might mark the place where people had been buried, +and serve instead of the large statues. + +The working-tools of these people are but very mean, and, like those of all +the other islanders we have visited in this ocean, made of stone, bone, +shells, &c. They set but little value on iron or iron tools, which is the +more extraordinary, as they know their use; but the reason may be, their +having but little occasion for them. + +CHAPTER IX. + +_The Passage from Easter Island to the Marquesas Islands. Transactions +and Incidents which happened while the Ship lay in Madre de Dios, or +Resolution Bay, in the Island of St Christina._ + +1774 March + +After leaving Easter Island, I steered N.W. by N. and N.N.W., with a fine +easterly gale, intending to touch at the Marquesas, if I met with nothing +before I got there. We had not been long at sea, before the bilious +disorder made another attack upon me, but not so violent as the former. I +believe this second visit was owing to exposing and fatiguing myself too +much at Easter Island. + +On the 22d, being in the latitude of 19 deg. 20' S., longitude 114 deg. 49' W., +steered N.W. Since leaving Easter Island, the variation had not been more +than 3 deg. 4', nor less than 2 deg. 32' E.; but on the 26th, at six a.m., in +latitude 15 deg. 7' S., longitude 119 deg. 45' W., it was no more than 1 deg. 1' E.; +after which it began to increase. + +On the 29th, being in the latitude of 10 deg. 20', longitude 123 deg. 58' W., +altered the course to W.N.W., and the next day to west, being then in +latitude 9 deg. 24', which I judged to be the parallel of Marquesas; where, as +I have before observed, I intended to touch, in order to settle their +situation, which I find different in different charts. Having now a steady +settled trade-wind, and pleasant weather, I ordered the forge to be set up, +to repair and make various necessary articles in the iron way; and the +caulkers had already been some time at work caulking the decks, weather- +works, &c. + +1774 April + +As we advanced to the west, we found the variation to increase but slowly; +for, on the 3d of April, it was only 4 deg. 40' E., being then in the latitude +of 9 deg. 32', longitude 132 deg. 45', by observation made at the same time. + +I continued to steer to the west till the 6th, at four in the afternoon, at +which time, being in the latitude of 9 deg. 20', longitude 138 deg. 14' W., we +discovered an island, bearing west by south, distant about nine leagues. +Two hours after we saw another, bearing S.W. by S., which appeared more +extensive than the former. I hauled up for this island, and ran under an +easy sail all night, having squally unsettled rainy weather, which is not +very uncommon in this sea, when near high land. At six o'clock the next +morning, the first island bore N.W., the second S.W. 1/2 W., and a third W. +I gave orders to steer for the separation between the two last; and soon +after, a fourth was seen, still more to the west. By this time, we were +well assured that these were the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595. +The first isle was a new discovery, which I named Hood's Island, after the +young gentleman who first saw it, the second was that of Saint Pedro, the +third La Dominica, and the fourth St Christina. We ranged the S.E..coast of +La Dominica, without seeing the least signs of anchorage, till we came to +the channel that divides it from St Christina, through which we passed, +hauled over for the last-mentioned island, and ran along the coast to the +S.W. in search of Mendana's Port. We passed several coves in which there +seemed to be anchorage; but a great surf broke on all the shores. Some +canoes put off from these places, and followed us down the coast. + +At length, having come before the port we were in search of, we attempted +to turn into it, the wind being right out; but as it blew in violent +squalls from this high land, one of these took us just after we had put in +stays, payed the ship off again, and before she wore round, she was within +a few yards of being driven against the rocks to leeward. This obliged us +to stand out to sea, and to make a stretch to windward; after which we +stood in again, and without attempting to turn, anchored in the entrance of +the bay in thirty-four fathoms water, a fine sandy bottom. This was no +sooner done, than about thirty or forty of the natives came off to us in +ten or twelve canoes; but it required some address to get them alongside. +At last a hatchet, and some spike-nails, induced the people in one canoe to +come under the quarter-gallery; after which, all the others put alongside, +and having exchanged some breadfruit and fish for small nails, &c. retired +ashore, the sun being already set. We observed a heap of stones on the bow +of each canoe, and every man to have a sling tied round his hand. + +Very early next morning, the natives visited us again in much greater +numbers than before; bringing with them bread-fruit, plantains, and one +pig, all of which they exchanged for nails, &c. But in this traffic they +would frequently keep our goods, and make no return, till at last I was +obliged to fire a musket-ball over one man who had several times served us +in this manner; after which they dealt more fairly; and soon after several +of them came on board. At this time we were preparing to warp farther into +the bay, and I was going in a boat, to look for the most convenient place +to moor the ship in. Observing too many of the natives on board, I said to +the officers, "You must look well after these people, or they will +certainly carry off something or other." I had hardly got into the boat, +before I was told they had stolen one of the iron stanchions from the +opposite gang-way, and were making off with it. I ordered them to fire over +the canoe till I could get round in the boat, but not to kill any one. But +the natives made too much noise for me to be heard, and the unhappy thief +was killed at the third shot. Two others in the same canoe leaped +overboard, but got in again just as I came to them. The stanchion they had +thrown over board. One of them, a man grown, sat bailing the blood and +water out of the canoe, in a kind of hysteric laugh; the other, a youth +about fourteen or fifteen years of age, looked on the deceased with a +serious and dejected countenance; we had afterwards reason to believe he +was his son. + +At this unhappy accident, all the natives retired with precipitation. I +followed them into the bay, and prevailed upon the people in one canoe to +come alongside the boat, and receive some nails, and other things, which I +gave them; this in some measure allayed their fears. Having taken a view of +the bay, and found that fresh water, which we most wanted, was to be had, I +returned on board, and carried out a kedge-anchor with three hawsers upon +an end, to warp the ship in by, and hove short on the bower. One would have +thought that the natives, by this time, would have been so sensible of the +effect of our fire-arms, as not to have provoked us to fire upon them any +more, but the event proved otherwise; for the boat had no sooner left the +kedge-anchor, than two men in a canoe put off from the shore, took hold of +the buoy rope, and attempted to drag it ashore, little considering what was +fast to it. Lest, after discovering their mistake, they should take away +the buoy, I ordered a musket to be fired at them; the ball fell short, and +they took not the least notice of it; but a second having passed over them, +they let go the buoy, and made for the shore. This was the last shot we had +occasion to fire at any of them, while we lay at this place. It probably +had more effect than killing the man, by shewing them that they were not +safe at any distance; at least we had reason to think so, for they +afterwards stood in great dread of the musket. Nevertheless, they would +very often be exercising their talent of thieving upon us, which I thought +proper to put up with, as our stay was not likely to be long amongst them. +The trouble these people gave us retarded us so long, that, before we were +ready to heave the anchor, the wind began to increase, and blew in squalls +out of the bay, so that we were obliged to lie fast. It was not long before +the natives ventured off to us again. In the first canoe which came, was a +man who seemed to be of some consequence; he advanced slowly, with a pig on +his shoulder, and speaking something which we did not understand. As soon +as he got alongside, I made him a present of a hatchet and several other +articles: In return, he sent in his pig; and was at last prevailed upon to +come himself up to the gang-way, where he made but a short stay. The +reception this man met with, induced the people in all the other canoes to +put alongside; and exchanges were presently reestablished. + +Matters being thus settled on board, I went on shore with a party of men, +to see what was to be done there. We were received by the natives with +great courtesy; and, as if nothing had happened, trafficked with them for +some fruit and a few small pigs; and after loading the launch with water, +returned aboard. After dinner I sent the boats ashore for water, under the +protection of a guard; on their landing, the natives all fled but one man, +and he seemed much frightened; afterwards one or two more came down, and +these were all that were seen this afternoon. We could not conceive the +reason of this sudden fright. + +Early in the morning of the 9th, the boats were sent as usual for water; +and just as they were coming off, but not before, some of the natives made +their appearance. After breakfast I landed some little time before the +guard, when the natives crowded round me in great numbers; but as soon as +the guard landed, I had enough to do to keep them from running off: At +length their fears vanished, and a trade was opened for fruit and pigs. I +believe the reason of the natives flying from our people the day before, +was their not seeing me at the head of them; for they certainly would have +done the same to-day, had I not been present. About noon, a chief of some +consequence, attended by a great number of people, came down to the +landing-place. I presented him with such articles as I had with me, and, in +return, he gave me some of his ornaments. After these mutual exchanges, a +good understanding seemed to be established between us; so that we got by +exchanges as much fruit as loaded two boats, with which we returned on +board to dinner; but could not prevail on the chief to accompany us. + +In the afternoon, the watering and trading parties were sent on shore, +though the latter got but little, as most of the natives had retired into +the country. A party of us went to the other, or southern cove of the bay, +where I procured five pigs, and came to the house which, we were told, did +belong to the man we had killed. He must have been a person of some note, +as there were six pigs in and about his house, which we were told belonged +to his son, who fled on our approach. I wanted much to have seen him, to +make him a present, and, by other kind treatment, to convince him and the +others that it was not from any bad design against the nation, that we had +killed his father. It would have been to little purpose if I had left any +thing in the house, as it certainly would have been taken by others; +especially as I could not sufficiently explain to them my meaning. Strict +honesty was seldom observed when the property of our things came to be +disputed. I saw a striking instance of this in the morning, when I was +going ashore. A man in a canoe offered me a small pig for a six-inch spike, +and another man being employed to convey it, I gave him the spike, which he +kept for himself, and instead of it, gave to the man who owned the pig a +sixpenny nail. Words of course arose, and I waited to see how it would end; +but as the man who had possession of the spike seemed resolved to keep it, +I left them before it was decided. In the evening we returned on board with +what refreshments we had collected, and thought we had made a good day's +work. + +On the 10th, early in the morning, some people from more distant parts came +in canoes alongside, and sold us some pigs; so that we had now sufficient +to give the crew a fresh meal. They were, in general, so small, that forty +or fifty were hardly sufficient for this purpose. The trade on shore for +fruit was as brisk as ever. After dinner, I made a little expedition in my +boat along the coast to the south-ward, accompanied by some of the +gentlemen: At the different places we touched at, we collected eighteen +pigs; and I believe, might have got more. The people were exceedingly +obliging wherever we landed, and readily brought down whatever we +desired. + +Next morning I went down to the same place where we had been the preceding +evening; but instead of getting pigs, as I expected, found the scene quite +changed. The nails and other things they were mad after but the evening +before, they now despised, and instead of them wanted they did not know +what; so that I was obliged to return, with three or four little pigs, +which cost more than a dozen did the day before. When I got on board, I +found the same change had happened there, as also at the trading place on +shore. The reason was, several of the young gentlemen having landed the +preceding day, had given away in exchange various articles which the people +had not seen before, and which took with them more than nails or more +useful iron tools. But what ruined our market the most, was one of them +giving for a pig a very large quantity of red feathers he had got at +Amsterdam. None of us knew at this time, that this article was in such +estimation here; and, if I had known it, I could not have supported the +trade, in the manner it was begun, one day. Thus was our fine prospect of +getting a plentiful supply of refreshments from these people frustrated; +which will ever be the case so long as every one is allowed to make +exchanges for what he pleases, and in what manner be pleases. When I found +this island was not likely to supply us, on any conditions, with sufficient +refreshments, such as we might expect to find at the Society Isles, nor +very convenient for taking in wood and water, nor for giving the ship the +necessary repairs she wanted, I resolved forthwith to leave it, and proceed +to some other place, where our wants might be effectually relieved. For +after having been nineteen weeks at sea, and living all the time upon salt +diet, we could not but want some refreshments; although I must own, and +that with pleasure, that on our arrival here, it could hardly be said we +had one sick man; and but a few who had the least complaint. This was +undoubtedly owing to the many antiscorbutic articles we had on board, and +to the great attention of the surgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply +them in time. + +CHAPTER X. + +_Departure from the Marquesas; a Description of the Situation, Extent, +Figure, and Appearance of the several Islands; with some Account of the +Inhabitants, their Customs, Dress, Habitations, Food, Weapons, and +Canoes._ + +1774 April + +At three o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed, and stood over from St +Christina for La Dominica, in order to take a view of the west side of that +isle; but as it was dark before we reached it, the night was spent in +plying between the two isles. The next morning we had a full view of the +S.W. point, from which the coast trended N.E.; so that it was not probable +we should find good anchorage on that side, as being exposed to the +easterly winds. We had now but little wind, and that very variable, with +showers of rain. At length we got a breeze at E.N.E. with which we steered +to the south. At five o'clock p.m., Resolution Bay bore E.N.E. 1/2 E. +distant five leagues, and the island Magdalena S.E., about nine leagues +distant. This was the only sight we had of this isle. From hence I steered +S.S.W. 1/2 W. for Otaheite, with a view of falling in with some of those +isles discovered by former navigators, especially those discovered by the +Dutch, whose situations are not well determined. But it will be necessary +to return to the Marquesas; which were, as I have already observed, first +discovered by Mendana, a Spaniard, and from him obtained the general name +they now bear, as well as those of the different isles. The nautical +account of them, in vol. i. p. 61, of Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages to +the South Seas, is deficient in nothing but situation. This was my chief +reason for touching, at them; the settling this point is the more useful, +as it will in a great measure fix the situations of Mendana's other +discoveries. + +The Marquesas are five in number, viz. La Magdalena, St Pedro, La Dominica, +Santa Christina, and Hood's Island, which is the northernmost, situated in +latitude 9 deg. 26' S., and N. 13 deg. W., five leagues and a half distant from the +east point of La Dominica, which is the largest of all the isles, extending +east and west six leagues. It hath an unequal breadth, and is about fifteen +or sixteen leagues in circuit. It is full of rugged hills, rising in ridges +directly from the sea; these ridges are disjoined by deep vallies which are +clothed with wood, as are the sides of some of the hills; the aspect, +however, is barren; but it is, nevertheless, inhabited. Latitude 9 deg. 44' 30" +S. St Pedro, which is about three leagues in circuit, and of a good height, +lies south, four leagues and a half from the east end of La Dominica; we +know not if it be inhabited. Nature has not been very bountiful to it. St +Christina lies under the same parallel, three or four leagues more to the +west. This island stretches north and south, is nine miles long in that +direction, and about seven leagues in circuit. A narrow ridge of hills of +considerable height extends the whole length of the island. There are other +ridges, which, rising from the sea, and with an equal ascent, join the main +ridge. These are disjoined by deep narrow vallies, which are fertile, +adorned with fruit and other trees, and watered by fine streams of +excellent water. La Magdalena we only saw at a distance. Its situation must +be nearly in the latitude of 10 deg. 25', longitude 138 deg. 50'. So that these +isles occupy one degree in latitude, and near half a degree in longitude, +viz. from 138 deg. 47' to 139 deg. 13' W., which is the longitude of the west end +of La Dominica. + +The port of Madre de Dios, which I named Resolution Bay, is situated near +the middle of the west side of St Christina, and under the highest land in +the island, in latitude 9 deg. 55' 30", longitude 139 deg. 8' 40" W.; and north 15' +W. from the west end of La Dominica. The south point of the bay is a steep +rock of considerable height, terminating at the top in a peaked hill, above +which you will see a path-way leading up a narrow ridge to the summits of +the hills. The north point is not so high, and rises with a more gentle +slope. They are a mile from each other, in the direction of N. by E. and S. +by W. In the bay, which is near three quarters of a mile deep, and has from +thirty-four to twelve fathoms water, with a clean sandy bottom, are two +sandy coves, divided from each other by a rocky point. In each is a rivulet +of excellent water. The northern cove is the most commodious for wooding +and watering. Here is the little water-fall mentioned by Quiros, Mendana's +pilot; but the town, or village, is in the other cove. There are several +other coves, or bays, on this side of the island, and some of them, +especially to the northward, may be mistaken for this; therefore, the best +direction is the bearing of the west end of La Dominica. + +The trees, plants, and other productions of these isles, so far as we know, +are nearly the same as at Otaheite and the Society Isles. The refreshments +to be got are hogs, fowls, plantains, yams, and some other roots; likewise +bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, but of these not many. At first these articles +were purchased with nails. Beads, looking-glasses, and such trifles, which +are so highly valued at the Society Isles, are in no esteem here; and even +nails at last lost their value for other articles far less useful. + +The inhabitants of these islands collectively, are, without exception, the +finest race of people in this sea. For fine shape and regular features, +they perhaps surpass all other nations. Nevertheless, the affinity of their +language to that spoken in Otaheite and the Society Isles, shews that they +are of the same nation. Oedidee could converse with them tolerably well, +though we could not; but it was easy to see that their language was nearly +the same. + +The men are punctured, or curiously _tattowed_, from head to foot. The +figures are various, and seem to be directed more by fancy than custom. +These puncturations make them look dark: But the women, who are but little +punctured, youths and young children, who are not at all, are as fair as +some Europeans. The men are in general tall, that is, about five feet ten +inches, or six feet; but I saw none that were fat and lusty like the +_Earees_ of Otaheite; nor did I see any that could be called meagre. +Their teeth are not so good, nor are their eyes so full and lively as those +of many other nations. Their hair, like ours, is of many colours, except +red, of which I saw none. Some have it long, but the most general custom is +to wear it short, except a bunch on each side of the crown, which they tie +in a knot. They observe different modes in trimming the beard, which is in +general long. Some part it, and tie it in two bunches under the chin, +others plait it, some wear it loose, and others quite short. + +Their clothing is the same as at Otaheite, and made of the same materials; +but they have it not in such plenty, nor is it so good. The men, for the +most part, have nothing to cover their nakedness, except the _Marra_, +as it is called at Otaheite; which is a slip of cloth passed round the +waist and betwixt the legs; This simple dress is quite sufficient for the +climate, and answers every purpose modesty requires. The dress of the women +is a piece of cloth wrapped round the loins like a petticoat, which reaches +down below the middle of the leg, and a loose mantle over their shoulders. +Their principal head-dress, and what appears to be their chief ornament, is +a sort of broad fillet, curiously made of the fibres of the husk of cocoa- +nuts. In the front is fixed a mother-o'-pearl shell wrought round to the +size of a tea saucer. Before that is another smaller one, of very fine +tortoise-shell, perforated into curious figures. Also before, and in the +centre of that, is another round piece of mother-o'-pearl, about the size +of half-a-crown; and before this another piece of perforated tortoise- +shell, about the size of a shilling. Besides this decoration in front, some +have it also on each side, but in smaller pieces; and all have fixed to +them, the tail feathers of cocks, or tropic birds, which, when the fillet +is tied on, stand upright; so that the whole together makes a very sightly +ornament. They wear round the neck a kind of ruff or necklace, call it +which you please, made of light wood, the out and upper side covered with +small red pease, which are fixed on with gum. They also wear small bunches +of human hair, fastened to a string, and tied round the legs and arms. +Sometimes, instead of hair, they make use of short feathers; but all the +above-mentioned ornaments are seldom seen on the same person. + +I saw only the chief, who came to visit us, completely dressed in this +manner. Their ordinary ornaments are necklaces and amulets made of shells, +&c. I did not see any with ear-rings; and yet all of them had their ears +pierced. + +Their dwellings are in the vallies, and on the sides of the hills, near +their plantations. They are built after the same manner as at Otaheite; but +are much meaner, and only covered with the leaves of the bread-tree. The +most of them are built on a square or oblong pavement of stone, raised some +height above the level of the ground. They likewise have such pavements +near their houses, on which they sit to eat and amuse themselves. + +In the article of eating, these people are by no means so cleanly as the +Otaheiteans. They are likewise dirty in their cookery. Pork and fowls are +dressed in an oven of hot stones, as at Otaheite; but fruit and roots they +roast on the fire, and after taking off the rind or skin, put them into a +platter or trough, with water, out of which I have seen both men and hogs +eat at the same time. I once saw them make a batter of fruit and roots +diluted with water, in a vessel that was loaded with dirt, and out of which +the hogs had been but that moment eating, without giving it the least +washing, or even washing their hands, which were equally dirty; and when I +expressed a dislike, was laughed at. I know not if all are so. The actions +of a few individuals are not sufficient to fix a custom on a whole nation. +Nor can I say if it is the custom for men and women to have separate +messes. I saw nothing to the contrary: Indeed I saw but few women upon the +whole. + +They seemed to have dwellings, or strong-holds, on the summits of the +highest hills. These we only saw by the help of our glasses; for I did not +permit any of our people to go there, as we were not sufficiently +acquainted with the disposition of the natives, which (I believe) is humane +and pacific. + +Their weapons are clubs and spears, resembling those of Otaheite, but +somewhat neater. They have also slings, with which they throw stones with +great velocity, and to a great distance, but not with a good aim. + +Their canoes are made of wood, and pieces of the bark of a soft tree, which +grows near the sea in great plenty, and is very tough and proper for the +purpose. They are from sixteen to twenty feet long, and about fifteen +inches broad; the head and stern are made of two solid pieces of wood; the +stern rises or curves a little, but in an irregular direction, and ends in +a point; the head projects out horizontally, and is carved into some faint +and very rude resemblance of a human face. They are rowed by paddles, and +some have a sort of lateen sail, made of matting. + +Hogs were the only quadrupeds we saw; and cocks and hens the only tame +fowls. However, the woods seemed to abound with small birds of a very +beautiful plumage, and fine notes; but the fear of alarming the natives +hindered us from shooting so many of them as might otherwise have been +done. + +CHAPTER XI. + +_A Description of several Islands discovered, or seen in the Passage from +the Marquesas to Otaheite; with an Account of a Naval Review._ + +1774 April + +With a fine easterly wind I steered S.W.--S.W. by W. and W. by S. till the +17th, at ten o'clock in the morning, when land was seen bearing W. 1/2 N., +which, upon a nearer approach, we found to be a string of low islets +connected together by a reef of coral rocks. We ranged the northwest coast, +at the distance of one mile from shore, to three quarters of its length, +which in the whole is near four leagues, when we came to a creek or inlet +that seemed to open a communication into the lake in the middle of the +isle. As I wanted to obtain some knowledge of the produce of these half- +drowned isles, we brought-to, hoisted out a boat, and sent the master in to +sound; there being no soundings without. + +As we ran along the coast, the natives appeared in several places armed +with long spears and clubs; and some were got together on one side of the +creek. When the master returned he reported that there was no passage into +the lake by the creek, which was fifty fathoms wide at the entrance, and +thirty deep; farther in, thirty wide, and twelve deep; that the bottom was +every where rocky, and the sides bounded by a wall of coral rocks. We were +under no necessity to put the ship into such a place as this; but as the +natives had shewn some signs of a friendly disposition, by coming peaceably +to the boat, and taking such things as were given them, I sent two boats +well armed ashore, under the command of Lieutenant Cooper, with a view of +having some intercourse with them, and to give Mr Forster an opportunity of +collecting something in his way. We saw our people land without the least +opposition being made by a few natives who were on the shores. Some little +time after, observing forty or fifty more, all armed, coming to join them, +we stood close in shore, in order to be ready to support our people in case +of an attack. But nothing of this kind happened; and soon after our boats +returned aboard, when Mr Cooper informed me, that, on his landing, only a +few of the natives met him on the beach, but there were many in the skirts +of the woods with spears in their hands. The presents he made them were +received with great coolness, which plainly shewed we were unwelcome +visitors. When their reinforcement arrived he thought proper to embark, as +the day was already far spent, and I had given orders to avoid an attack by +all possible means. When his men got into the boats, some were for pushing +them off, others for detaining them; but at last they suffered them to +depart at their leisure. They brought aboard five dogs, which seemed to be +in plenty there. They saw no fruit but cocoa-nuts, of which, they got, by +exchanges, two dozen. One of our people got a dog for a single plantain, +which led us to conjecture they had none of this fruit. + +This island, which is called by the inhabitants Ti-oo-kea, was discovered +and visited by Commodore Byron. It has something of an oval shape, is about +ten leagues in circuit, lying in the direction of E.S.E. and W.N.W., and +situated in the latitude of 14 deg. 27' 30" S., longitude 144 deg. 56' W. The +inhabitants of this island, and perhaps of all the low ones, are of a much +darker colour than those of the higher islands, and seem to be of a more +ferine disposition. This may be owing to their situation. Nature not having +bestowed her favours to these low islands with that profusion she has done +to some of the others, the inhabitants are chiefly beholden to the sea for +their subsistence, consequently are much exposed to the sun and weather; +and by that means become more dark in colour, and more hardy and robust; +for there is no doubt of their being of the same nation. Our people +observed that they were stout, well-made men, and had the figure of a fish +marked on their bodies; a very good emblem of their profession. + +On the 18th, at day-break, after having spent the night snaking short +boards, we wore down to another isle we had in sight to the westward, which +we reached by eight o'clock, and ranged the S.E. side at one mile from +shore. We found it to be just such another as that we had left, extending +N.E. and S.W. near four leagues, and from five to three miles broad. It +lies S.W. by W., two leagues distant from the west end of Ti-oo-kea; and +the middle is situated in the latitude of 14 deg. 37' S., longitude 145 deg. 10' W. +These must be the same islands to which Commodore Byron gave the name of +George's Islands. Their situation in longitude, which was determined by +lunar observations made near the shores, and still farther corrected by the +difference of longitude carried by the watch to Otaheite, is 3 deg. 54' more +east than he says they lie. This correction, I apprehend, may be applied to +all the islands he discovered. + +After leaving these isles, we steered S.S.W. 1/2 W., and S.W. by S., with a +fine easterly gale, having signs of the vicinity of land, particularly a +smooth sea; and on the 19th, at seven in the morning, land was seen to the +westward, which we bore down to, and reached the S.E. end by nine o'clock. +It proved to be another of these half-over-flowed or drowned islands, which +are so common in this part of the ocean; that is, a number of little isles +ranged in a circular form, connected together by a reef or wall of coral +rock. The sea is in general, every-where, on their outside, unfathomable; +all their interior parts are covered with water, abounding, I have been +told, with fish and turtle, on which the inhabitants subsist, and sometimes +exchange the latter with the high islanders for cloth, &c. These inland +seas would be excellent harbours, were they not shut up from the access of +shipping, which is the case with most of them, if we can believe the report +of the inhabitants of the other isles. Indeed, few of them have been well +searched by Europeans; the little prospect of meeting with fresh water +having generally discouraged every attempt of this kind. I, who have seen a +great many, have not yet seen an inlet into one. + +This island is situated in the latitude of 15 deg. 26', longitude 146 deg. 20'. It +is five leagues long in the direction of N.N.E. and S.S.W. and about three +leagues broad. As we drew near the south end, we saw from the mast-head, +another of these low isles bearing S.E., distant about four or five +leagues, but being to windward we could not fetch it. Soon after a third +appeared, bearing S.W. by S., for which we steered; and at two o'clock p.m. +reached the east end, which is situated in latitude 15 deg. 47' S., longitude +146 deg. 30' W. This island extends W.N.W. and E.S.E., and is seven leagues +long in that direction; but its breadth is not above two. It is, in all +respects, like the rest; only here are fewer islets, and less firm land on +the reef which incloses the lake. As we ranged the north coast, at the +distance of half a mile, we saw people, huts, canoes, and places built, +seemingly for drying of fish. They seemed to be the same sort of people as +on Ti-oo-kea, and were armed with long spikes like them. Drawing near the +west end, we discovered another or fourth island, bearing N.N.E. It seemed +to be low, like the others, and lies west from the first isle, distant six +leagues. These four isles I called Palliser's Isles, in honour of my worthy +friend Sir Hugh Palliser, at this time comptroller of the navy. + +Not chusing to run farther in the dark, we spent the night making short +boards under the top-sail; and on the 20th, at day-break, hauled round the +west end of the third isle, which was no sooner done than we found a great +swell rolling in from the south; a sure sign that we were clear of these +low islands; and as we saw no more land, I steered S.W. 1/2 S. for +Otaheite, having the advantage of a stout gale at east, attended with +showers of rain. It cannot be determined with any degree of certainty +whether the group of isles we had lately seen, be any of those discovered +by the Dutch navigators, or no; the situation of their discoveries not +being handed down to us with sufficient accuracy. It is, however, necessary +to observe, that this part of the ocean, that is, from the latitude of 20 deg. +down to 14 deg. or 12 deg., and from the meridian of 138 deg. to 148 deg. or 150 deg. W., is so +strewed with these low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much +caution. + +We made the high land of Otaheite on the 21st, and at noon were about +thirteen leagues E. of Point Venus, for which we steered, and got pretty +well in with it by sun set, when we shortened sail; and having spent the +night, which was squally with rain, standing on and off, at eight o'clock +the next morning anchored in Matavai Bay in seven fathoms water. This was +no sooner known to the natives, than many of them made us a visit, and +expressed not a little joy at seeing us again. + +As my chief reason for putting in at this place was to give Mr Wales an +opportunity to know the error of the watch by the known longitude, and to +determine anew her rate of going, the first thing we did was to land his +instruments, and to erect tents for the reception of a guard and such other +people as it was necessary to have on shore. Sick we had none; the +refreshments we had got at the Marquesas had removed every complaint of +that kind. + +On the 23d, showery weather. Our very good friends the natives supplied us +with fruit and fish sufficient for the whole crew. + +On the 24th, Otoo the king, and several other chiefs, with a train of +attendants, paid us a visit, and brought as presents ten or a dozen large +hogs, besides fruits, which made them exceedingly welcome. I was advertised +of the king's coming, and looked upon it as a good omen. Knowing how much +it was my interest to make this man my friend, I met him at the tents, and +conducted him and his friends on board, in my boat, where they staid +dinner; after which they were dismissed with suitable presents, and highly +pleased with the reception they had met with. + +Next day we had much thunder, lightning, and rain. This did not hinder the +king from making me another visit, and a present of a large quantity of +refreshments. It hath been already mentioned, that when we were at the +island of Amsterdam we had collected, amongst other curiosities, some red +parrot feathers. When this was known here, all the principal people of both +sexes endeavoured to ingratiate themselves into our favour by bringing us +hogs, fruit, and every other thing the island afforded, in order to obtain +these valuable jewels. Our having these feathers was a fortunate +circumstance, for as they were valuable to the natives, they became so to +us; but more especially as my stock of trade was by this time greatly +exhausted; so that, if it had not been for the feathers, I should have +found it difficult to have supplied the ship with the necessary +refreshments. + +When I put in at this island, I intended to stay no longer than till Mr +Wales had made the necessary observations for the purposes already +mentioned, thinking we should meet with no better success than we did the +last time we were here. But the reception we had already met with, and the +few excursions we had made, which did not exceed the plains of Matavai and +Oparree, convinced us of our error. We found at these two places, built and +building, a great number of large canoes, and houses of every kind; people +living in spacious habitations who had not a place to shelter themselves in +eight months before; several large hogs about every house; and every other +sign of a rising state. + +Judging from these favourable circumstances that we should not mend +ourselves by removing to another island, I resolved to make a longer stay, +and to begin with the repairs of the ship and stores, &c. Accordingly I +ordered the empty casks and sails to be got ashore to be repaired; the ship +to be caulked, and the rigging to be overhauled; all of which the high +southern latitudes had made indispensably necessary. + +In the morning of the 26th, I went down to Oparree, accompanied by some of +the officers and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a visit by appointment. As we drew +near, we observed a number of large canoes in motion; but we were +surprised, when we arrived, to see upwards of three hundred ranged in +order, for some distance, along the shore, all completely equipped and +manned, besides a vast number of armed men upon the shore. So unexpected an +armament collected together in our neighbourhood, in the space of one +night, gave rise to various conjectures. We landed, however, in the midst +of them, and were received by a vast multitude, many of them under arms, +and many not. The cry of the latter was _Tiyo no Otoo_, and that of +the former _Tiyo no Towha_. This chief, we afterwards learnt, was +admiral or commander of the fleet and troops present. The moment we landed +I was met by a chief whose name was Tee, uncle to the king, and one of his +prime ministers, of whom I enquired for Otoo. Presently after we were met +by Towha, who received me with great courtesy. He took me by the one hand, +and Tee by the other; and, without my knowing where they intended to carry +me, dragged me, as it were, through the crowd that was divided into two +parties, both of which professed themselves my friends, by crying out +_Tiyo no Tootee_. One party wanted me to go to Otoo, and the other to +remain with Towha. Coming to the visual place of audience, a mat was spread +for me to sit down upon, and Tee left me to go and bring the king. Towha +was unwilling I should sit down, partly insisting on my going with him; +but, as I knew nothing of this chief, I refused to comply. Presently Tee +returned, and wanted to conduct me to the king, taking hold of my hand for +that purpose. This Towha opposed; so that, between the one party and the +other, I was like to have been torn in pieces; and was obliged to desire +Tee to desist, and to leave me to the admiral and his party, who conducted +me down to the fleet. As soon as we came before the admiral's vessel, we +found two lines of armed men drawn up before her, to keep off the crowd, as +I supposed, and to clear the way for me to go in. But, as I was determined +not to go, I made the water, which was between me and her, an excuse. This +did not answer; for a man immediately squatted himself down at my feet, +offering to carry me; and then I declared I would not go. That very moment +Towha quitted me, without my seeing which way he went, nor would any one +inform me. Turning myself round I saw Tee, who, I believe, had never lost +sight of me. Enquiring of him for the king, he told me he was gone into the +country Mataou, and advised me to go to my boat; which we accordingly did, +as soon as we could get collected together; for Mr Edgcumbe was the only +person that could keep with me, the others being jostled about in the +crowd, in the same manner we had been. + +When we got into our boat, we took our time to view this grand fleet. The +vessels of war consisted of an hundred and sixty large double canoes, very +well equipped, manned, and armed. But I am not sure that they had their +full complement of men or rowers; I rather think not. The chiefs, and all +those on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits; that is, in +a vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast-plates, and helmets. Some of the +latter were of such a length as greatly to encumber the wearer. Indeed, +their whole dress seemed to be ill calculated for the day of battle, and to +be designed more for shew than use. Be this as it may, it certainly added +grandeur to the prospect, as they were so complaisant as to shew themselves +to the best advantage. The vessels were decorated with flags, streamers, +&c.; so that the whole made a grand and noble appearance, such as we had +never seen before in this sea, and what no one would have expected. Their +instruments of war were clubs, spears, and stones. The vessels were ranged +close along-side of each other with their heads ashore, and their stern to +the sea; the admiral's vessel being nearly in the centre. Besides the +vessels of war, there were an hundred and seventy sail of smaller double +canoes, all with a little house upon them, and rigged with mast and sail, +which the war canoes had not. These, we judged, were designed for +transports, victuallers, &c.; for in the war-canoes was no sort of +provisions whatever. In these three hundred and thirty vessels, I guessed +there were no less than seven thousand seven hundred and sixty men; a +number which appears incredible, especially as we were told they all +belonged to the districts of Attahourou and Ahopatea. In this computation I +allow to each war canoe forty men, troops and rowers, and to each of the +small canoes eight. Most of the gentlemen who were with me, thought the +number of men belonging to the war canoes exceeded this. It is certain that +the most of them were fitted to row with more paddles than I have allowed +them men; but, at this time, I think they were not complete. Tupia informed +us, when I was first here, that the whole island raised only between six +and seven thousand men; but we now saw two districts only raise that +number; so that he must have taken his account from some old establishment; +or else he only meant _Tatatous_, that is warriors, or men trained +from their infancy to arms, and did not include the rowers, and those +necessary to navigate the other vessels. I should think he only spoke of +this number as the standing troops or militia of the island, and not their +whole force. This point I shall leave to be discussed in another place, and +return to the subject. + +After we had well viewed this fleet, I wanted much to have seen the +admiral, to have gone with him on board the war-canoes. We enquired for him +as we rowed past the fleet to no purpose. We put ashore and enquired; but +the noise and crowd was so great that no one attended to what we said. At +last Tee came and whispered us in the ear, that Otoo was gone to Matavai, +advising us to return thither, and not to land where we were. We +accordingly proceeded for the ship; and this intelligence and advice +received from Tee, gave rise to new conjectures. In short, we concluded +that this Towha was some powerful disaffected chief, who was upon the point +of making war against his sovereign; for we could not imagine Otoo had any +other reason for leaving Oparree in the manner he did. + +We had not been long gone from Oparree, before the whole fleet was in +motion to the westward, from whence it came. When we got to Matavai, our +friends there told us, that this fleet was part of the armament intended to +go against Eimea, whose chief had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite, and +assumed an independency. We were likewise informed that Otoo neither was +nor had been at Matavai; so that we were still at a loss to know why he +fled from Oparree. This occasioned another trip thither in the afternoon, +where we found him, and now understood that the reason of his not seeing me +in the morning was, that some of his people having stolen a quantity of my +clothes which were on shore washing, he was afraid I should demand +restitution. He repeatedly asked me if I was not angry; and when I assured +him that I was not, and that they might keep what they had got, he was +satisfied. Towha was alarmed, partly on the same account. He thought I was +displeased when I refused to go aboard his vessel; and I was jealous of +seeing such a force in our neighbourhood without being able to know any +thing of its design. Thus, by mistaking one another, I lost the opportunity +of examining more narrowly into part of the naval force of this isle, and +making myself better acquainted with its manoeuvres. Such another +opportunity may never occur; as it was commanded by a brave, sensible, and +intelligent chief, who would have satisfied us in all the questions we had +thought proper to ask; and as the objects were before us, we could not well +have misunderstood each other. It happened unluckily that Oedidee was not +with us in the morning; for Tee, who was the only man we could depend on, +served only to perplex us. Matters being thus cleared up, and mutual +presents having passed between Otoo and me, we took leave and returned on +board. + +CHAPTER XII. + +_Some Account of a Visit from Otoo, Towha, and several other Chiefs; also +of a Robbery committed by one of the Natives, and its Consequences, with +general Observations on the Subject._ + +1774 April + +In the morning of the 27th, I received a present from Towha, consisting of +two large hogs and some fruit, sent by two of his servants, who had orders +not to receive any thing in return; nor would they when offered them. Soon +after I went down to Oparree in my boat, where, having found both this +chief and the king, after a short stay, I brought them on board to dinner, +together with Tarevatoo, the king's younger brother, and Tee. As soon as we +drew near the ship, the admiral, who had never seen one before, began to +express much surprise at so new a sight. He was conducted all over the +ship, every part of which he viewed with great attention. On this occasion +Otoo was the principal show-man; for, by this time, he was well acquainted +with the different parts of the ship. After dinner Towha put a hog on +board, and retired, without my knowing any thing of the matter, or having +made him any return either for this, or the present I had in the morning. +Soon after, the king and his attendants went away also. Otoo not only +seemed to pay this chief much respect, but was desirous I should do the +same; and yet he was jealous of him, but on what account we knew not. It +was but the day before that he frankly told us, Towha was not his friend. +Both these chiefs when on board solicited me to assist them against +Tiarabou, notwithstanding a peace at this time subsisted between the two +kingdoms, and we were told their joint force was to go against Eimea. +Whether this was done with a view of breaking with their neighbours and +allies if I had promised them assistance, or only to sound my disposition, +I know not. Probably they would have been ready enough to have embraced an +opportunity, which would have enabled them to conquer that kingdom, and +annex it to their own, as it formerly was. Be this as it may, I heard no +more of it; indeed, I gave them no encouragement. + +Next day we had a present of a hog sent by Waheatoua, king of Tiarabou. For +this, in return, he desired a few red feathers, which were, together with +other things, sent him accordingly. Mr Forster and his party set out for +the mountains, with an intent to stay out all night. I did not go out of +the ship this day. + +Early in the morning of the 29th, Otoo, Towha, and several other grandees, +came on board, and brought with them as presents, not only provisions, but +some of the most valuable curiosities of the island. I made them returns, +with which they were well pleased. I likewise took this opportunity to +repay the civilities I had received from Towha. + +The night before, one of the natives attempting to steal a water-cask from +the watering-place, was caught in the act, sent on board, and put in irons; +in which situation Otoo and the other chiefs saw him. Having made known his +crime to them, Otoo begged he might be set at liberty. This I refused, +telling him, that since I punished my people, when they committed the least +offence against his, it was but just this man should be punished also; and +as I knew he would not do it, I was resolved to do it myself. Accordingly, +I ordered the man to be carried on shore to the tents, and having followed +myself, with Otoo, Towha, and others, I ordered the guard out, under arms, +and the man to be tied up to a post. Otoo, his sister, and some others, +begged hard for him; Towha said not one word, but was very attentive to +every thing going forward. I expostulated with Otoo on the conduct of this +man, and of his people in general; telling him, that neither I, nor any of +my people, took any thing from them, without first paying for it; +enumerating the articles we gave in exchange for such and such things; and +urging that it was wrong in them to steal from us, who were their friends. +I moreover told him, that the punishing this man would be the means of +saving the lives of others of his people, by deterring them from committing +crimes of this nature, in which some would certainly be shot dead, one time +or another. With these and other arguments, which I believe he pretty well +understood, he seemed satisfied, and only desired the man might not be +_Matterou_ (or killed). I then ordered the crowd, which was very +great, to be kept at a proper distance, and, in the presence of them all, +ordered the fellow two dozen lashes with a cat-o'-nine-tails, which he bore +with great firmness, and was then set at liberty. After this the natives +were going away; but Towha stepped forth, called them back, and harangued +them for near half an hour. His speech consisted of short sentences, very +little of which I understood; but, from what we could gather, he +recapitulated part of what I had said to Otoo; named several advantages +they had received from us; condemned their present conduct, and recommended +a different one for the future. The gracefulness of his action, and the +attention with which he was heard, bespoke him a great orator. + +Otoo said not one word. As soon as Towha had ended his speech, I ordered +the marines to go through their exercise, and to load and fire in vollies +with ball; and as they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is easier to +conceive than to describe the amazement the natives were under the whole +time, especially those who had not seen any thing of the kind before. + +This being over, the chiefs took leave, and retired with all their +attendants, scarcely more pleased than frightened at what they had seen. In +the evening Mr Forster and his party returned from the mountains, where he +had spent the night; having found some new plants, and some others which +grew in New Zealand. He saw Huaheine, which lies forty leagues to the +westward; by which a judgment may be formed of the height of the mountains +in Otaheite. + +Next morning I had an opportunity to see the people of ten war-canoes go +through part of their paddling exercise. They had put off from the shore +before I was apprised of it; so that I was only present at their landing. +They were properly equipped for war, the warriors with their arms, and +dressed in their war habits, &c. In landing, I observed that the moment the +canoe touched the ground, all the rowers leaped out, and with the +assistance of a few people on the shore, dragged the canoe on dry land to +her proper place; which being done, every one walked off with his paddle, +&c. All this was executed with such expedition, that in five minutes time +after putting ashore, you could not tell that any thing of the kind had +been going forward. I thought these vessels were thinly manned with rowers; +the most being not above thirty, and the least sixteen or eighteen. I +observed the warriors on the stage encouraged the rowers to exert +themselves. Some youths sat high up in the curved stern, above the +steersmen, with white wands in their hands. I know not what they were +placed there for, unless it was to look out and direct, or give notice of +what they saw, as they were elevated above every one else. Tarevatoo, the +king's brother, gave me the first notice of these canoes being at sea; and +knowing that Mr Hodges made drawings of every thing curious, desired of his +own accord that he might be sent for. I being at this time on shore with +Tarevatoo, Mr Hodges was therefore with me, and had an opportunity to +collect some materials for a large drawing or picture of the fleet +assembled at Oparree, which conveys a far better idea of it than can be +expressed by words. Being present when the warriors undressed, I was +surprised at the quantity and weight of cloth they had upon them, not +conceiving how it was possible for them to stand under it in time of +battle. Not a little was wrapped round their heads as a turban, and made +into a cap. This, indeed, might be necessary in preventing a broken head. +Many had, fixed to one of this sort of caps, dried branches of small shrubs +covered over with white feathers, which, however, could only be for +ornament. + +1774 May + +On the 1st of May, I had a very great supply of provisions sent and brought +by different chiefs; and the next day received a present from Towha, sent +by his servants, consisting of a hog, and a boat-load of various sorts of +fruits and roots. The like present I also had from Otoo, brought by +Tarevatoo, who stayed dinner; after which I went down to Opparree, paid a +visit to Otoo, and returned on board in the evening. + +On the 3d, in looking into the condition of our sea-provisions, we found +that the biscuit was in a state of decay, and that the airing and picking +we had given it at New Zealand, had not been of that service we expected +and intended; so that we were obliged to take it all on shore here, where +it underwent another airing and cleaning, in which a good deal was found +wholly rotten and unfit to be eaten. We could not well account for this +decay in our bread, especially as it was packed in good casks, and stowed +in a dry part of the hold. We judged it was owing to the ice we so +frequently took in when to the southward, which made the hold damp and +cold, and to the great heat which succeeded when to the north. Be it this, +or any other cause, the loss was the same to us; it put us to a scanty +allowance of this article; and we had bad bread to eat too. + +On the 4th, nothing worthy of note. + +On the 5th, the king and several other great men, paid us a visit, and +brought with them, as usual, some hogs and fruit. In the afternoon, the +botanists set out for the mountains, and returned the following evening, +having made some new discoveries in their way. + +On going ashore in the morning of the 7th, I found Otoo at the tents, and +took the opportunity to ask his leave to cut down some trees, for fuel. He +not well understanding me, I took him to some growing near the sea-shore, +where I presently made him comprehend what I wanted, and he as readily gave +his consent. I told him, at the same time, that I should cut down no trees +that bore any fruit. He was pleased with this declaration, and told it +aloud, several times, to the people about us. + +In the afternoon, this chief and the whole of the royal family, viz. his +father, brother, and three sisters, paid us a visit on board. This was +properly his father's visit of ceremony. He brought me, as a present, a +complete mourning dress, a curiosity we most valued. In return, I gave +him whatever he desired, which was not a little, and having distributed red +feathers to all the others, conducted them ashore in my boat. Otoo was so +well pleased with the reception he and his friends met with, that he told +me, at parting, I might cut down as many trees as I pleased, and what sort +I pleased. + +During the night, between the 7th and 8th, some time in the middle watch, +all our friendly connections received an interruption, through the +negligence of one of the centinels on shore. He having either slept or +quitted his post, gave one of the natives an opportunity to carry off his +musket. The first news I heard of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had sent on +board for that purpose, and to desire that I would go to him, for that he +was _mataoued_. We were not well enough acquainted with their language +to understand all Tee's story; but we understood enough to know that +something had happened which had alarmed the king. In order, therefore, to +be fully informed, I went ashore with Tee and Tarevatoo, who had slept +aboard all night. As soon as we landed, I was informed of the whole by the +serjeant who commanded the party. I found the natives all alarmed, and the +most of them fled. Tarevatoo slipped from me in a moment, and hardly any +remained by me but Tee. With him I went to look for Otoo; and, as we +advanced, I endeavoured to allay the fears of the people, but, at the same +time, insisted on the musket being restored. After travelling some distance +into the country, enquiring of every one we saw for Otoo, Tee stopped all +at once and advised me to return, saying, that Otoo was gone to the +mountains, and he would proceed and tell him that I was still his friend; a +question which had been asked me fifty times by different people, and if I +was angry, &c. Tee also promised that he would use his endeavours to +recover the musket. I was now satisfied it was to no purpose to go farther; +for, although I was alone and unarmed, Otoo's fears were such, that he +durst not see me; and, therefore, I took Tee's advice, and returned aboard. +After this I sent Oedidee to Otoo to let him know that his fears were ill- +grounded; for that I only required the return of the musket, which I knew +was in his power. + +Soon after Oedidee was gone, we observed six large canoes coming round +Point Venus. Some people whom I had sent out, to watch the conduct of the +neighbouring inhabitants, informed me they were laden with baggage, fruit, +hogs, &c. There being room for suspecting that some person belonging to +these canoes had committed the theft, I presently came to a resolution to +intercept them; and having put off in a boat for that purpose, gave orders +for another to follow. One of the canoes, which was some distance ahead of +the rest, came directly for the ship. I went alongside this, and found two +or three women in her whom I knew. They told me they were going on board +the ship with something for me; and, on my enquiring of them for Otoo, was +told he was then at the tents. Pleased with this news, I contradicted the +orders I had given for intercepting the other canoes, thinking they might +be coming on board also, as well as this one, which I left within a few +yards of the ship, and rowed ashore to speak with Otoo. But when I landed, +I was told that he had not been there, nor knew they any thing of him. On +my looking behind me, I saw all the canoes making off in the greatest +haste; even the one I had left alongside the ship had evaded going on +board, and was making her escape. Vexed at being thus outwitted, I resolved +to pursue them; and as I passed the ship, gave orders to send another boat +for the same purpose. Five out of six we took, and brought alongside; but +the first, which acted the finesse so well, got clear off. When we got on +board with our prizes, I learnt that the people who had deceived me, used +no endeavours to lay hold of the ship on the side they were up on, but let +their canoe drop past, as if they meant to come under the stern, or on the +other side; and that the moment they were past, they paddled off with all +speed. Thus the canoe, in which were only a few women, was to have amused +us with false stories as they actually did, while the others, in which were +most of the effects, got off. + +In one of the canoes we had taken, was a chief, a friend of Mr Forster's, +who had hitherto called himself an _Earee_, and would have been much +offended if any one had called his title in question; also three women, his +wife and daughter, and the mother of the late Toutaha. These, together with +the canoes, I resolved to detain, and to send the chief to Otoo, thinking +he would have weight enough with him to obtain the return of the musket, as +his own property was at stake. He was, however, very unwilling to go on +this embassy, and made various excuses, one of which was his being of too +low a rank for this honourable employment; saying he was no _Earee_, +but a _Manahouna_, and, therefore, was not a fit person to be sent; +that an _Earee_ ought to be sent to speak to an _Earee_; and as +there were no _Earees_ but Otoo and myself, it would be much more +proper for me to go. All his arguments would have availed him little, if +Tee and Oedidee had not at this time come on board, and given a new turn to +the affair, by declaring that the man who stole the musket was from +Tiarabou, and had gone with it to that kingdom, so that it was not in the +power of Otoo to recover it. I very much doubted their veracity, till they +asked me to send a boat to Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, and offered to +go themselves in her, and get it. I asked why this could not be done +without my sending a boat? They said, it would not otherwise be given to +them. + +This story of theirs, although it did not quite satisfy me, nevertheless +carried with it a probability of truth; for which reason I thought it +better to drop the affair altogether, rather than to punish a nation for a +crime I was not sure any of its members had committed. I therefore suffered +my new ambassador to depart with his two canoes without executing his +commission. The other three canoes belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou chief, +who had been some days about the tents; and there was good reason to +believe it was one of his people that carried off the musket. I intended to +have detained them; but as Tee and Oedidee both assured me that Maritata +and his people were quite innocent, I suffered them to be taken away also, +and desired Tee to tell Otoo, that I should give myself no farther concern +about the musket, since I was satisfied none of his people had stolen it. +Indeed, I thought it was irrecoverably lost; but, in the dusk of the +evening it was brought to the tents, together with some other things we had +lost, which we knew nothing of, by three men who had pursued the thief, and +taken them from him. I know not if they took this trouble of their own +accord, or by the order of Otoo. I rewarded them, and made no other enquiry +about it. These men, as well as some others present, assured me that it was +one of Maritata's people who had committed this theft; which vexed me that +I had let his canoes so easily slip through my fingers. Here, I believe, +both Tee and Oedidee designedly deceived me. + +When the musket and other things were brought in, every one then present, +or who came after, pretended to have had some hand in recovering them, and +claimed a reward accordingly. But there was no one who acted this farce so +well as Nuno, a man of some note, and well known to us when I was here in +1769. This man came, with all the savage fury imaginable in his +countenance, and a large club in his hand, with which he beat about him, in +order to shew us how he alone had killed the thief; when, at the same time, +we all knew that he had not been out of his house the whole time. + +Thus ended this troublesome day; and next morning early, Tee, Otoo's +faithful ambassador, came again on board, to acquaint me that Otoo was gone +to Oparree, and desired I would send a person (one of the natives as I +understood), to tell him that I was still his _Tiyo_. I asked him why +he did not do this himself, as I had desired. He made some excuse; but, I +believe the truth was, he had not seen him. In short, I found it was +necessary for me to go myself; for, while we thus spent our time in +messages, we remained without fruit, a stop being put to all exchanges of +this nature; that is, the natives brought nothing to market. Accordingly, a +party of us set out with Tee in our company, and proceeded to the very +utmost limits of Oparree, where, after waiting some considerable time, and +several messages having passed, the king at last made his appearance. After +we were seated under the shade of some trees, as usual, and the first +salutations were over, he desired me to _parou_ (that is, to speak). +Accordingly, I began with blaming him for being frightened and alarmed at +what had happened, since I had always professed myself his friend, and I +was not angry with him or any of his people, but with those of Tiarabou, +who were the thieves. I was then asked, how I came to fire at the canoes? +Chance on this occasion furnished me with a good excuse. I told them, that +they belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou man, one of whose people had stolen +the musket, and occasioned all this disturbance; and if I had them in my +power I would destroy them, or any other belonging to Tiarabou. This +declaration pleased them, as I expected, from the natural aversion the one +kingdom has to the other. What I said was enforced by presents, which +perhaps had the greatest weight with them. Thus were things once more +restored to their former state; and Otoo promised on his part, that the +next day we should be supplied with fruit, &c. as usual. + +We then returned with him to his proper residence at Oparree, and there +took a view of some of his dock-yards (for such they well deserve to be +called) and large canoes; some lately built, and others building; two of +which were the largest I had ever seen in this sea; or indeed any where +else, under that name. This done, we returned on board, with Tee in our +company; who, after he had dined with us, went to inform old Happi, the +king's father, that all matters were again accommodated. + +This old chief was at this time in the neighbourhood of Matavai; and it +should seem, from what followed, that he was not pleased with the +conditions; for that same evening all the women, which were not a few, were +sent for out of the ship, and people stationed on different parts of the +shore, to prevent any from coming off; and the next morning no supplies +whatever being brought, on my enquiring into the reason, I was told Happi +was _mataoued_. Chagrined at this disappointment as I was, I forbore +taking any step, from a supposition that Tee had not seen him, or that +Otoo's orders had not yet reached Matavai. A supply of fruit sent us from +Oparree, and some brought us by our friends, served us for the present, and +made us less anxious about it. Thus matters stood till the afternoon, when +Otoo himself came to the tents with a large supply. Thither I went, and +expostulated with him for not permitting the people in our neighbourhood to +bring us fruit as usual, insisting on his giving immediate orders about it; +which he either did or had done before. For presently after, more was +brought us than we could well manage. This was not to be wondered at, for +the people had every thing in readiness to bring, the moment they were +permitted, and I believe thought themselves as much injured by the +restriction as we did. + +Otoo desiring to see some of the great guns fire from the ship, I ordered +twelve to be shotted and fired towards the sea. As he had never seen a +cannon fired before, the sight gave him as much pain as pleasure. In the +evening, we entertained him with fire-works, which gave him great +satisfaction. + +Thus ended all our differences, on which I beg leave to suggest the +following remarks. I have had occasion before, in this journal, to observe +that these people were continually watching opportunities to rob us. This +their governors either encouraged, or had not power to prevent; but most +probably the former, because the offender was always screened. That they +should commit such daring thefts was the more extraordinary, as they +frequently run the risk of being shot in the attempt; and if the article +that they stole was of any consequence, they knew they should be obliged to +make restitution. The moment a theft of this kind was committed, it spread +like the wind over the whole neighbourhood. They judged of the consequences +from what they had got. If it were a trifle, and such an article as we +usually gave them, little or no notice was taken of it; but if the +contrary, every one took the alarm, and moved off with his moveables in all +haste. The chief then was _mataoued_, giving orders to bring us no +supplies, and flying to some distant part. All this was sometimes done so +suddenly, that we obtained, by these appearances, the first intelligence of +our being robbed. Whether we obliged them to make restitution or no, the +chief must be reconciled before any of the people were permitted to bring +in refreshments. They knew very well we could not do without them, and +therefore they never failed strictly to observe this rule, without ever +considering, that all their war-canoes, on which the strength of their +nation depends, their houses, and even the very fruit they refused to +supply us with, were entirely in our power. It is hard to say how they +would act, were one to destroy any of these things. Except the detaining +some of their canoes for a while, I never touched the least article of +their property. Of the two extremes I always chose that which appeared the +most equitable and mild. A trifling present to the chief always succeeded +to my wish, and very often put things upon a better footing than they had +been before. That they were the first aggressors had very little influence +on my conduct in this respect, because no difference happened but when it +was so. My people very rarely or never broke through the rules I thought it +necessary to prescribe. Had I observed a different conduct, I must have +been a loser by it in the end; and all I could expect, after destroying +some part of their property, would have been the empty honour of obliging +them to make the first overture towards an accommodation. But who knows if +this would have been the event? Three things made them our fast friends. +Their own good-nature and benevolent disposition; gentle treatment on our +part; and the dread of our fire-arms. By our ceasing to observe the second; +the first would have worn out of course; and the too frequent use of the +latter would have excited a spirit of revenge, and perhaps have taught them +that fire-arms were not such terrible things as they had imagined. They +were very sensible of the superiority of their numbers; and no one knows +what an enraged multitude might do. + +CHAPTER XIII. + +_Preparations to leave the Island. Another Naval Review, and various +other Incidents; with some Account of the Island, its Naval Force, and +Number of Inhabitants._ + +1774 May + +In the morning of the 11th, a very large supply of fruit was brought us +from all parts. Some of it came from Towha, the admiral, sent as usual by +his servants, with orders to receive nothing in return. But he desired I +would go and see him at Attahourou, as he was ill and could not come to me. +As I could not well undertake this journey, I sent Oedidee along with +Towha's servants, with a present suitable to that which I had in so genteel +a manner received from him. As the most essential repairs of the ship were +nearly finished, I resolved to leave Otaheite in a few days; and +accordingly ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, that the +natives might see we were about to depart. + +On the 12th, old Oberea, the woman who, when the Dolphin was here in 1767, +was thought to be queen of the island, and whom I had not seen since 1769, +paid us a visit, and brought a present of hogs and fruit. Soon after came +Otoo, with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. I was +pretty liberal in my returns, thinking it might be the last time I should +see these good people, who had so liberally relieved our wants; and in the +evening entertained them with fire-works. + +On the 13th, wind easterly, fair weather. Nevertheless we were not ready to +sail, as Otoo had made me promise to see him again; and I had a present to +make him, which I reserved to the last. Oedidee was not yet come back from +Attahourou; various reports arose concerning him: Some said he had returned +to Matavai; others, that he would not return; and some would have it, that +he was at Oparree. In order to know more of the truth, a party of us in the +evening went down to Oparee; where we found him, and likewise Towha, who, +notwithstanding his illness, had resolved to see me before I sailed; and +had got thus far on his journey. He was afflicted with a swelling in his +feet and legs, which had entirely taken away the use of them. As the day +was far spent, we were obliged to shorten our stay; and after seeing Otoo, +we returned with Oedidee on board. + +This youth, I found, was desirous of remaining at this isle, having before +told him, as likewise many others, that we should not return. I now +mentioned to him, that he was at liberty to remain here; or to quit us at +Ulietea; or to go with us to England; frankly owning that if he chose the +latter, it was very probable he would never return to his country; in which +case I would take care of him, and he must afterwards look upon me as his +father. He threw his arms about me, and wept much, saying many people +persuaded him to remain at Otaheite. I told him to go ashore and speak to +his friends, and then come to me in the morning. He was well beloved in the +ship; so that every one was persuading him to go with us; telling what +great things he would see in England, and the immense riches (according to +his idea of riches) he would return with. But I thought proper to undeceive +him, as knowing that the only inducement to his going, was the expectation +of returning, and I could see no prospect of an opportunity of that kind +happening, unless a ship should be expressly sent out for that purpose; +which neither I, nor anyone else, had a right to expect. I thought it an +act of the highest injustice to take a person from these isles, under any +promise which was not in my power to perform. At this time indeed it was +quite unnecessary; for many youths voluntarily offered themselves to go, +and even to remain and die in _Pretanee_; as they call our country. +Otoo importuned me much to take one or two to collect red feathers for him +at Amsterdam, willing to risk the chance of their returning. Some of the +gentlemen on board were likewise desirous of taking some as servants; but I +refused every solicitation of this kind, knowing, from experience, they +would be of no use to us in the course of the voyage; and farther my views +were not extended. What had the greatest weight with me was, the thinking +myself bound to see they were afterwards properly taken care of, as they +could not be carried from their native spot without consent. + +Next morning early, Oedidee came on board, with a resolution to remain on +the island; but Mr Forster prevailed upon him to go with us to Ulietea. +Soon after, Towha, Potatou, Oamo, Happi, Oberea, and several more of our +friends, came on board with fruit, &c. Towha was hoisted in and placed on a +chair on the quarter-deck; his wife was with him. Amongst the various +articles which I gave this chief, was an English pendant, which pleased him +more than all the rest, especially after he had been instructed in the use +of it. + +We had no sooner dispatched our friends, than we saw a number of war-canoes +coming round the point of Oparree. Being desirous of having a nearer view +of them, accompanied by some of the officers and gentlemen, I hastened down +to Oparree, which we reached before all the canoes were landed, and had an +opportunity of seeing in what manner they approached the shore. When they +got before the place where they intended to land, they formed themselves +into divisions, consisting of three or four, or perhaps more, lashed square +and close along-side of each other; and then each division, one after the +other, paddled in for the shore with all their might, and conducted in so +judicious a manner, that they formed and closed a line along, the shore, to +an inch. The rowers were encouraged to exert their strength by their +leaders on the stages, and directed by a man who stood with a wand in his +hand in the forepart of the middlemost vessel. This man, by words and +actions, directed the paddlers when all should paddle, when either the one +side or the other should cease, &c.; for the steering paddles alone were +not sufficient to direct them. All these motions they observed with such +quickness, as clearly shewed them to be expert in their business. After Mr +Hodges had made a drawing of them, as they lay ranged along the shore, we +landed and took a nearer view of them, by going on board several. This +fleet consisted of forty sail, equipped in the same manner as those we had +seen before, belonged to the little district of Tettaha, and were come to +Oparree to be reviewed before the king, as the former fleet had been. There +were attending on his fleet some small double canoes, which they called +_Marais_, having on their fore-part a kind of double bed place laid +over with green leaves, each just sufficient to hold one man. These, they +told us, were to lay their dead upon; their chiefs I suppose they meant, +otherwise their slain must be few. Otoo, who was present, caused at my +request some of their troops to go through their exercise on shore. Two +parties first began with clubs, but this was over almost as soon as begun; +so that I had no time to make my observations upon it. They then went to +single combat, and exhibited the various methods of fighting, with great +alertness; parrying off the blows and pushes which each combatant aimed at +the other, with great dexterity. Their arms were clubs and spears; the +latter they also use as darts. In fighting with the club, all blows +intended to be given the legs, were evaded by leaping over it; and those +intended for the head, by couching a little, and leaping on one side; thus +the blow would fall to the ground. The spear or dart was parried by fixing +the point of a spear in the ground right before them, holding it in an +inclined position, more or less elevated according to the part of the body +they saw their antagonist intending to make a push, or throw his dart at, +and by moving the hand a little to the right or left, either the one or the +other was turned off with great ease. I thought that when one combatant had +parried off the blows, &c. of the other, he did not use the advantage which +seemed to me to accrue. As for instance, after he had parried off a dart, +he still stood on the defensive, and suffered his antagonist to take up +another, when I thought there was time to run him through the body. + +These combatants had no superfluous dress upon them; an unnecessary piece +of cloth or two, which they had on when they began, were presently torn off +by the by-standers, and given to some of our gentlemen present. This being +over, the fleet departed; not in any order, but as fast as they could be +got afloat; and we went with Otoo to one of his dock-yards, where the two +large _pahies_ or canoes were building, each of which was an hundred +and eight feet long. They were almost ready to launch, and were intended to +make one joint double _pahie_ or canoe. The king begged of me a +grappling and rope, to which I added an English jack and pendant (with the +use of which he was well acquainted), and desired the _pahie_ might be +called Britannia. This he very readily agreed to; and she was named +accordingly. After this he gave me a hog, and a turtle of about sixty +pounds weight, which was put privately into our boat; the giving it away +not being agreeable to some of the great lords about him, who were thus +deprived of a feast. He likewise would have given me a large shark they had +prisoner in a creek (some of his fins being cut off, so that he could not +make his escape), but the fine pork and fish we had got at this isle, had +spoiled our palates for such food. The king, and Tee, his prime minister, +accompanied us on board to dinner; and after it was over, took a most +affectionate farewell. He hardly ever ceased soliciting me, this day, to +return to Otaheite; and just before he went out of the ship, took a youth +by the hand, and presented him to me, desiring I would keep him on board to +go to Amsterdam to collect red feathers. I told him I could not, since I +knew he would never return; but that if any ship should happen to come from +Britain to this isle, I would either bring or send him red feathers in +abundance. This in some measure satisfied him; but the youth was +exceedingly desirous of going; and if I had not come to a resolution to +carry no one from the isles (except Oedidee if he chose to go), and but +just refused Mr Forster the liberty of taking a boy, I believe I should +have consented. Otoo remained alongside in his canoe till we were under +sail, when we put off, and was saluted with three guns. + +Our treatment here was such as had induced one of our gunner's mates to +form a plan to remain at this isle. He knew he could not execute it with +success while we lay in the bay, therefore took the opportunity, as soon as +we were out, the boats in, and sails set, to slip overboard, being a good +swimmer. But he was discovered before he got clear of the ship; and we +presently hoisted a boat out, and took him up. A canoe was observed about +half-way between us and the shore, seemingly coming after us. She was +intended to take him up; but as soon as the people in her saw our boat, +they kept at a distance. This was a pre-concerted plan between the man and +them, which Otoo was acquainted with, and had encouraged. When I considered +this man's situation in life, I did not think him so culpable, nor the +resolution he had taken of staying here so extraordinary, as it may at +first appear. He was an Irishman by birth, and had sailed in the Dutch +service. I picked him up at Batavia on my return from my former voyage, and +he had been with me ever since. I never learnt that he had either friends +or connections, to confine him to any particular part of the world. All +nations were alike to him. Where then could such a man be more happy than +at one of these isles? where, in one of the finest climates in the world, +he could enjoy not only the necessaries, but the luxuries of life, in ease +and plenty. I know not if he might not have obtained my consent, if he had +applied for it in a proper time. As soon as we had got him on board, and +the boat in, I steered for Huaheine, in order to pay a visit to our friends +there. But before we leave Otaheite, it will be necessary to give some +account of the present state of that island; especially as it differs very +much from what it was eight months before. + +I have already mentioned the improvements we found in the plains of Oparree +and Matavai. The same was observable in every other part into which we +came. It seemed to us almost incredible, that so many large canoes and +houses could be built in so short a space as eight months. The iron tools +which they had got from the English, and other nations who have lately +touched at the isle, had no doubt greatly accelerated the work; and they +had no want of hands, as I shall soon make appear. + +The number of hogs was another thing that excited our wonder. Probably they +were not so scarce when we were here before, as we imagined, and not +chusing to part with any, they had conveyed them out of our sight. Be this +as it may, we now not only got as many as we could consume during our stay, +but some to take to sea with us. + +When I was last here, I conceived but an unfavourable opinion of Otoo's +talents. The improvements since made in the island convinced me of my +mistake; and that he must have been a man of good parts. He had indeed some +judicious sensible men about him, who, I believe, had a great share in the +government. In truth, we know not how far his power extended as king, nor +how far he could command the assistance of the other chiefs, or was +controulable by them. It should seem, however, that all had contributed +towards bringing the isle to its present flourishing state. We cannot doubt +that there were divisions amongst the great men of this state, as well as +of most others; or else why did the king tell us, that Towha the admiral, +and Poatatou were not his friends? They were two leading chiefs; and he +must have been jealous of them on account of their great power; for on +every occasion he seemed to court their interest. We had reason to believe +that they raised by far the greatest number of vessels and men, to go +against Eimea, and were to be two of the commanders in the expedition, +which we were told was to take place five days after our departure. +Waheatoua, king of Tiarabou, was to send a fleet to join that of Otoo, to +assist him in reducing to obedience the chief of Eimea. I think, we were +told, that young prince was one of the commanders. One would suppose that +so small an island as Eimea would hardly have attempted to make head +against the united force of these two kingdoms, but have endeavoured to +settle matters by negociation. Yet we heard of no such thing; on the +contrary, every one spoke of nothing but fighting. Towha told us more than +once, that he should die there; which, in some measure, shews that he +thought of it. Oedidee told me the battle would be fought at sea; in which +case the other must have a fleet nearly equal, if not quite, to the one +going against them; which I think was not probable. It was therefore more +likely they would remain ashore upon the defensive; as we were told they +did about five or six years ago, when attacked by the people of Tiarabou, +whom they repulsed. Five general officers were to command in this +expedition; of which number Otoo was one; and if they named them in order +according to the posts they held, Otoo was only the third in command. This +seems probable enough; as being but a young man, he could not have +sufficient experience to command such an expedition, where the greatest +skill and judgment seemed to be necessary. I confess I would willingly have +staid five days longer, had I been sure the expedition would have then +taken place; but it rather seemed that they wanted us to be gone first. We +had been all along told, it would be ten moons before it took place; and it +was not till the evening before we sailed, that Otoo and Towha told us it +was to be in five days after we were gone; as if it were necessary to have +that time to put every thing in order; for, while we lay there, great part +of their time and attention was taken up with us. I had observed that for +several days before we sailed, Otoo and the other chiefs had ceased to +solicit my assistance, as they were continually doing at first, till I +assured Otoo that, if they got their fleet ready in time, I would sail with +them down to Eimea: After this I heard no more of it. They probably had +taken it into consideration, and concluded themselves safer without me; +well knowing it would be in my power to give the victory to whom I pleased; +and that, at the best, I might thwart some favourite custom, or run away +with the spoils. But be their reasons what they might, they certainly +wanted us to be gone, before they undertook any thing. Thus we were +deprived of seeing the whole fleet equipped on this occasion; and perhaps +of being spectators of a sea-fight, and by that means, gaining some +knowledge of their manoeuvres. + +I never could learn what number of vessels were to go on this expedition. +We knew of no more than two hundred and ten, besides smaller canoes to +serve as transports, &c. and the fleet of Tiarabou, the strength of which +we never learnt. Nor could I ever learn the number of men necessary to man +this fleet; and whenever I asked the question, the answer was _Warou, +warou, warou te Tata_, that is, many, many, many, men; as if the number +far exceeded their arithmetic. If we allow forty men to each war-canoe, and +four to each of the others, which is thought a moderate computation, the +number will amount to nine thousand. An astonishing number to be raised in +four districts; and one of them, viz. Matavia, did not equip a fourth part +of its fleet. The fleet of Tiarabou is not included in this account; and +many other districts might be arming, which we knew nothing of. I however +believe, that the whole isle did not arm on this occasion; for we saw not +the least preparations making in Oparree. From what we saw and could learn, +I am clearly of opinion that the chief or chiefs of each district +superintended the equipping of the fleet belonging to that district; but +after they are equipped, they must pass in review before the king, and be +approved of by him. By this means he knows the state of the whole, before +they assemble to go on service. + +It hath been already observed, that the number of war-canoes belonging to +Attahourou and Ahopata was a hundred and sixty; to Tettaba, forty; and to +Matavia, ten; and that this district did not equip one-fourth part of their +number. If we suppose every district in the island, of which there are +forty-three, to raise and equip the same number of war-canoes as Tettaha, +we shall find, by this estimate, that the whole island can raise and equip +one thousand seven hundred and twenty war-canoes, and sixty-eight thousand +able men; allowing forty men to each canoe. And as these cannot amount to +above one-third part of the number of both sexes, children included, the +whole island cannot contain less than two hundred and four thousand +inhabitants, a number which at first sight exceeded my belief. But when I +came to reflect on the vast swarms which appeared wherever we came, I was +convinced that this estimate was not much, if at all, too great. There +cannot be a greater proof of the riches and fertility of Otaheite (not +forty leagues in circuit) than its supporting such a number of inhabitants. + +This island made formerly but one kingdom; how long it has been divided +into two, I cannot pretend to say; but I believe not long. The kings of +Tiarabou are a branch of the family of those of Opoureonu; at present, the +two are nearly related; and, I think, the former is, in some measure, +dependent on the latter. Otoo is styled _Earee de hie_ of the whole +island; and we have been told that Waheatoua, the king of Tiarabou, must +uncover before him, in the same manner as the meanest of his subjects. This +homage is due to Otoo as _Earee de hie_ of the isle, to Tarevatou, his +brother, and his second sister; to the one as heir, and to the other as +heir apparent; his eldest sister being married, is not entitled to this +homage. + +The _Eowas_ and _Whannos_, we have sometimes seen covered before +the king; but whether by courtesy, or by virtue of their office, we never +could learn. These men, who are the principal persons about the king, and +form his court, are generally, if not always, his relations; Tee, whom I +have so often mentioned, was one of them. We have been told, that the +_Eowas_, who have the first rank, attend in their turns, a certain +number each day, which occasioned us to call them lords in waiting; but +whether this was really so, I cannot say. We seldom found Tee absent; +indeed his attendance was necessary, as being best able to negociate +matters between us and them, on which service he was always employed; and +he executed it, I have reason to believe, to the satisfaction of both +parties. + +It is to be regretted, that we know little more of this government than the +general out-line; for, of its subdivisions, classes, or orders of the +constituent parts, how disposed, or in what manner connected, so as to form +one body politic, we know but little. We are sure, however, that it is of +the feudal kind; and if we may judge from what we have seen, it has +sufficient stability, and is by no means badly constructed. + +The _Eowas_ and _Whannos_ always eat with the king; indeed I do +not know if any one is excluded from this privilege but the +_Toutous_. For as to the women, they are out of the question, as they +never eat with the men, let their rank be ever so much elevated. + +Notwithstanding this kind of kingly establishment, there was very little +about Otoo's person or court by which a stranger could distinguish the king +from the subject. I seldom saw him dressed in any thing but a common piece +of cloth wrapped round his loins; so that he seemed to avoid all +unnecessary pomp, and even to demean himself more than any other of the +_Earees_. I have seen him work at a paddle, in coming to and going +from the ship, in common with the other paddlers; and even when some of his +_Toutous_ sat looking on. All have free access to him, and speak to +him wherever they see him, without the least ceremony; such is the easy +freedom which every individual of this happy isle enjoys. I have observed +that the chiefs of these isles are more beloved by the bulk of the people, +than feared. May we not from hence conclude, that the government is mild +and equitable? + +We have mentioned that Waheatoua or Tiarabou is related to Otoo. The same +may be said of the chiefs of Eimea, Tapamanoo, Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, +and Bolabola; for they are all related to the royal family of Otaheite. It +is a maxim with the _Earees_, and others of superior rank, never to +intermarry with the _Toutous_, or others of inferior rank. Probably +this custom is one great inducement to the establishing of the societies +called _Eareeoies_. It is certain that these societies greatly prevent +the increase of the superior classes of people of which they are composed, +and do not at all interfere with the inferiors, or _Toutous_; for I +never heard of one of these being an _Eareeoy_. Nor did I ever hear +that a _Toutou_ could rise in life above the rank in which he was born. + +I have occasionally mentioned the extraordinary fondness the people of +Otaheite shewed for red feathers. These they call _Oora_, and they are +as valuable here as jewels are in Europe, especially those which they call +_Ooravine_, and grow on the head of the green paraquet: Indeed, all red +feathers are esteemed, but none equally with these; and they are such good +judges as to know very well how to distinguish one sort from another. Many +of our people attempted to deceive them by dying other feathers; but I +never heard that any one succeeded. These feathers they make up in little +bunches, consisting of eight or ten, and fix them to the end of a small +cord about three or four inches long, which is made of the strong outside +fibres of the cocoa-nut, twisted so hard that it is like a wire, and serves +as a handle to the bunch. Thus prepared, they are used as symbols of the +_Eatuas_, or divinities, in all their religious ceremonies. I have +often seen them hold one of these bunches, and sometimes only two or three +feathers, between the fore finger and thumb, and say a prayer, not one word +of which I could ever understand. Whoever comes to this island, will do +well to provide himself with red feathers, the finest and smallest that are +to be got. He must also have a good stock of axes, and hatchets, spike- +nails, files, knives, looking-glasses, beads, &c. Sheets and shirts are +much sought after, especially by the ladies; as many of our gentlemen found +by experience. + +The two goats which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when we were last here, +seemed to promise fair for answering the end for which they were put on +shore. The ewe soon after had two female kids, which were now so far grown +as to be nearly ready to propagate; and the old ewe was again with kid. The +people seemed to be very fond of them, and they to like their situation as +well; for they were in excellent condition. From this circumstance we may +hope that, in a few years, they will have some to spare to their +neighbours; and by that means they may in time spread over all the isles in +this ocean. The sheep which we left died soon after, excepting one, which +we understood was yet alive. We have also furnished them with a stock of +cats; no less than twenty having been given away at this isle, besides +those which were left at Ulietea and Huaheine. + +CHAPTER XIV. + +_The Arrival of the Ship at the Island of Huaheine; with an Account of an +Expedition into the Island, and several other Incidents which happened +while she lay there._ + +1774 May + +At one o'clock in the afternoon, on the 15th, we anchored in the north +entrance of O'Wharre harbour, in the island of Huaheine; hoisted out the +boats, warped into a proper birth, and moored with the bower and kedge +anchor, not quite a cable's length from the shore. While this was doing, +several of the natives made us a visit, amongst whom was old Oree the +chief, who brought a hog and some other articles, which he presented to me, +with the usual ceremony. + +Next morning, the natives began to bring us fruit. I returned Oree's visit, +and made my present to him; one article of which was red feathers. Two or +three of these the chief took in his right hand, holding them up between +the finger and thumb, and said a prayer, as I understood, which was little +noticed by any present. Two hogs were soon after put into my boat, and he +and several of his friends came on board and dined with us. After dinner +Oree gave me to understand what articles would be most acceptable to him +and his friends, which were chiefly axes and nails. Accordingly I gave him +what he asked, and desired he would distribute them to the others, which he +did, seemingly to the satisfaction of every one. A youth about ten or +twelve years of age, either his son or grandson, seemed to be the person of +most note, and had the greatest share. + +After the distribution was over, they all returned ashore. Mr Forster and +his party being out in the country botanizing, his servant, a feeble man, +was beset by five or six fellows, who would have stripped him, if that +moment one of the party had not come to his assistance; after which they +made off with a hatchet they had got from him. + +On the 17th, I went ashore to look for the chief, in order to complain of +the outrage committed as above; but he was not in the neighbourhood. Being +ashore in the afternoon, a person came and told me Oree wanted to see me. I +went with the man, and was conducted to a large house, where the chief and +several other persons of note were assembled in council, as well as I could +understand. After I was seated, and some conversation had passed among +them, Oree made a speech, and was answered by another. I understood no more +of either, than just to know it regarded the robbery committed the day +before. The chief then began to assure me, that neither he, nor any one +present (which were the principal chiefs in the neighbourhood) had any hand +in it; and desired me to kill, with the guns, all those which had. I +assured him, that I was satisfied that neither he nor those present were at +all concerned in the affair; and that I should do with the fellows as he +desired, or any others who were guilty of the like crimes. Having asked +where the fellows were, and desired they would bring them to me, that I +might do with them as he had said, his answer was, they were gone to the +mountains, and he could not get them. Whether this was the case or not, I +will not pretend to say. I knew fair means would never make them deliver +them up; and I had no intention to try others. So the affair dropt, and the +council broke up. + +In the evening, some of the gentlemen went to a dramatic entertainment. The +piece represented a girl as running away with us from Otaheite; which was +in some degree true; as a young woman had taken a passage with us down to +Ulietea, and happened now to be present at the representation of her own +adventures; which had such an effect upon her, that it was with great +difficulty our gentlemen could prevail upon her to see the play out, or to +refrain from tears while it was acting. The piece concluded with the +reception she was supposed to meet with from her friends at her return; +which was not a very favourable one. These people can add little extempore +pieces to their entertainments, when they see occasion. Is it not then +reasonable to suppose that it was intended as a satire against this girl, +and to discourage others from following her steps? + +In the morning of the 18th, Oree came on board with a present of fruit, +stayed dinner, and in the afternoon desired to see some great guns fired, +shotted, which I complied with. The reason of his making this request was +his hearing, from Oedidee, and our Otaheitean passengers, that we had so +done at their island. The chief would have had us fire at the hills; but I +did not approve of that, lest the shot should fall short and do some +mischief. Besides, the effect was better seen in the water. Some of the +petty officers, who had leave to go into the country for their amusement, +took two of the natives with them to be their guides, and to carry their +bags, containing nails, hatchets, &c. the current cash we traded with here; +which the fellows made off with in the following artful manner: The +gentlemen had with them two muskets for shooting birds. After a shower of +rain, their guides pointed out some for them to shoot. One of the muskets +having missed fire several times, and the other having gone off, the +instant the fellows saw themselves secure from both, they ran away, leaving +the gentlemen gazing after them with so much surprise, that no one had +presence of mind to pursue them. + +The 19th, showery morning; fair afternoon, nothing happened worthy of note. + +Early in the morning of the 20th, three of the officers set out on a +shooting party, rather contrary to my inclination; as I found the natives, +at least some of them, were continually watching every opportunity to rob +straggling parties, and were daily growing more daring. About three o'clock +in the afternoon, I got intelligence that they were seized and stripped of +every thing they had about them. Upon this I immediately went on shore with +a boat's crew, accompanied by Mr Forster, and took possession of a large +house with all its effects, and two chiefs whom I found in it; but this we +did in such a manner, that they hardly knew what we were about, being +unwilling to alarm the neighbourhood. In this situation I remained till I +heard the officers had got back safe, and had all their things restored to +them: Then I quitted the house; and presently after every thing in it was +carried off. When I got on board I was informed of the whole affair by the +officers themselves. Some little insult on their part, induced the natives +to seize their guns, on which a scuffle ensued, some chiefs interfered, +took the officers out of the crowd, and caused every thing which had been +taken from them to be restored. This was at a place where we had before +been told, that a set of fellows had formed themselves into a gang, with a +resolution to rob every one who should go that way. It should seem from +what followed, that the chief could not prevent this, or put a stop to +these repeated outrages. I did not see him this evening, as he was not come +into the neighbourhood when I went on board; but I learnt from Oedidee that +he came soon after, and was so concerned at what had happened that he wept. + +Day-light no sooner broke upon us on the 21st, than we saw upwards of sixty +canoes under sail going out of the harbour, and steering over for Ulietea. +On our enquiring the reason, we were told that the people in them were +_Eareeois_, and were going to visit their brethren in the neighbouring +isles. One may almost compare these men to free-masons; they tell us they +assist each other when need requires; they seem to have customs among them +which they either will not, or cannot explain. Oedidee told us he was one; +Tupia was one; and yet I have not been able to get any tolerable idea of +this set of men, from either of them. Oedidee denies that the children they +have by their mistresses are put to death, as we understood from Tupia and +others. I have had some conversation with Omai on this subject, and find +that he confirms every thing that is said upon it in the narrative of my +former voyage. + +Oedidee, who generally slept on shore, came off with a message from Oree, +desiring I would land with twenty-two men, to go with him to chastise the +robbers. The messenger brought with him, by way of assisting his memory, +twenty-two pieces of leaves, a method customary amongst them. On my +receiving this extraordinary message, I went to the chief for better +information; and all I could learn of him was, that these fellows were a +sort of banditti, who had formed themselves into a body, with a resolution +of seizing and robbing our people wherever they found them, and were now +armed for that purpose: For which reason he wanted me to go along with him, +to chastise them. I told him, if I went they would fly to the mountains; +but he said, they were resolved to fight us, and therefore desired I would +destroy both them and their house; but begged I would spare those in the +neighbourhood, as also the canoes and the _Whenooa_. By way of +securing these, he presented me with a pig as a peace-offering for the +_Whenooa_. It was too small to be meant for any thing but a ceremony +of this kind. This sensible old chief could see (what perhaps none of the +others ever thought of) that every thing in the neighbourhood was at our +mercy, and therefore took care to secure them by this method, which I +suppose to be of weight with them. When I returned on board, I considered +of the chiefs request, which upon the whole appeared an extraordinary one. +I however resolved to go, lest these fellows should be (by our refusal) +encouraged to commit greater acts of violence; and, as their proceeding +would soon reach Ulietea, where I intended to go next, the people there +might be induced to treat us in the same manner, or worse, they being more +numerous. Accordingly I landed with forty-eight men, including officers, Mr +Forster, and some other of the gentlemen. The chief joined us with a few +people, and we began to march, in search of the banditti, in good order. As +we proceeded, the chief's party increased like a snow-ball. Oedidee, who +was with us, began to be alarmed, observing that many of the people in our +company were of the very party we were going against, and at last telling +us, that they were only leading us to some place where they could attack us +to advantage. Whether there was any truth in this, or it was only Oedidee's +fears, I will not pretend to say. He, however, was the only person we could +confide in. And we regulated our motions according to the information he +had given us. After marching some miles, we got intelligence that the men +we were going after had fled to the mountains; but I think this was not +till I had declared to the chief I would proceed no farther. For we were +then about crossing a deep valley, bounded on each side by steep rocks, +where a few men with stones only might have made our retreat difficult, if +their intentions were what Oedidee had suggested, and which he still +persisted in. Having come to a resolution to return, we marched back in the +same order as we went, and saw, in several places, people, who had been +following us, coming down from the sides of the hills with their arms in +their hands, which they instantly quitted, and hid in the bushes, when they +saw they were discovered by us. This seemed to prove that there must have +been some foundation for what Oedidee had said; but I cannot believe that +the chief had any such design, whatever the people might have. In our +return we halted at a convenient place to refresh ourselves. I ordered the +people to bring us some cocoa-nuts, which they did immediately. Indeed, by +this time, I believe many of them wished us on board out of the way; for +although no one step was taken that could give them the least alarm, they +certainly were in terror. Two chiefs brought each of them a pig, a dog, and +some young plantain trees, the usual peace-offerings, and with due ceremony +presented them singly to me. Another brought a very large hog, with which +he followed us to the ship. After this we continued our course to the +landing-place, where I caused several vollies to be fired, to convince the +natives that we could support a continual fire. This being done, we all +embarked and went on board; and soon after the chief following, brought +with him a quantity of fruit, and sat down with us to dinner. We had scarce +dined before more fruit was brought us by others, and two hogs; so that we +were likely to make more by this little excursion than by all the presents +we had made them. It certainly gave them some alarm to see so strong a +party of men march into their country; and probably gave them a better +opinion of fire-arms than they had before. For I believe they had but an +indifferent, or rather contemptible, idea of muskets in general, having +never seen any fired but at birds, &c. by such of our people as used to +straggle about the country, the most of them but indifferent marksmen, +losing generally two shots out of three, their pieces often, missing fire, +and being slow in charging. Of all this they had taken great notice, and +concluded, as well they might, that fire-arms were not so terrible things +as they had been taught to believe. + +When the chiefs took leave in the evening, they promised to bring us next +day a very large supply of provisions. In the article of fruit they were as +good as their word, but of hogs, which we most wanted, they brought far +less than we expected. Going ashore in the afternoon, I found the chief +just sitting down to dinner. I cannot say what was the occasion of his +dining so late. As soon as he was seated, several people began chewing the +pepper-root; about a pint of the juice of which, without any mixture, was +the first dish, and was dispatched in a moment. A cup of it was presented +to me; but the manner of brewing it was at this time sufficient. Oedidee +was not so nice, but took what I refused. After this the chief washed his +mouth with cocoa-nut water; then he eat of repe, plantain, and mahee, of +each not a little; and, lastly, finished his repast by eating, or rather +drinking, about three pints of _popoie_, which is made of bread-fruit, +plantains, mahee, &c. beat together and diluted with water till it is of +the consistence of a custard. This was at the outside of his house, in the +open air; for at this time a play was acting within, as was done almost +every day in the neighbourhood; but they were such poor performances that I +never attended. I observed that, after the juice had been squeezed out of +the chewed pepper-root for the chief, the fibres were carefully picked up +and taken away by one of his servants. On my asking what he intended to do +with it, I was told he would put water to it, and strain it again. Thus he +would make what I will call small beer. + +The 23d, wind easterly, as it had been ever since we left Otaheite. Early +in the morning, we unmoored, and at eight weighed and put to sea. The good +old chief was the last man who went out of the ship. At parting I told him +we should see each other no more; at which he wept, and said, "Let your +sons come, we will treat them well." Oree is a good man, in the utmost +sense of the word; but many of the people are far from being of that +disposition, and seem to take advantage of his old age; Teraderre, his +grandson and heir, being yet but a youth. The gentle treatment the people +of this isle ever met with from me, and the careless and imprudent manner +in which many of our people had rambled about in the country, from a vain +opinion that firearms rendered them invincible, encouraged many at Huaheine +to commit acts of violence, which no man at Otaheite ever durst attempt. + +During our stay here we got bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c. more than we could +well-consume, but not hogs enough by far to supply our daily expence; and +yet it did not appear that they were scarce in the isle. It must be +allowed, however, that the number we took away, when last here, must have +thinned them greatly, and at the same time stocked the isle with our +articles. Besides, we now wanted a proper assortment of trade; what we had +being nearly exhausted, and the few remaining red feathers being here but +of little value, when compared to the estimation they stand in at Otaheite. +This obliged me to set the smiths to work to make different sorts of iron +tools, nails, &c. in order to enable me to procure refreshments at the +other isles, and to support my credit and influence among the natives. + +CHAPTER XV. + +_Arrival at Ulietea; with an Account of the Reception we met with there, +and the several Incidents which happened during our Stay. A Report of two +ships being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the Island; and the Regret +the Inhabitants shewed on the Occasion. The Character of Oedidee; with some +general Observations on the Islands._ + +1774 May + +As soon as we were clear of the harbour, we made sail, and stood over for +the South end of Ulietea. Oree took the opportunity to send a man with a +message to Opoony. Being little wind all the latter part of the day, it was +dark before we reached the west side of the isle, where we spent the night. +The same light variable wind continued till ten o'clock next morning, when +the trade-wind at east prevailed, and we ventured to ply up to the harbour, +first sending a boat to lie in anchorage in the entrance. After making a +few trips, we got before the channel, and with all our sails set, and the +head-way the ship had acquired, shut her in as far as she would go; then +dropped the anchor, and took in the sails. This is the method of getting +into most of the harbours which are on the lee-side of these isles; for the +channels, in general, are too narrow to ply in: We were now anchored +between the two points of the reef which form the entrance; each not more +than two-thirds the length of a cable from us, and on which the sea broke +with such height and violence, as to people less acquainted with the place, +would have been terrible. Having all our boats out with anchors and warps +in them, which were presently run out, the ship warped into safety, where +we dropt anchor for the night. While this work was going forward, my old +friend Oree the chief, and several more, came to see us. The chief came not +empty. + +Next day we warped the ship into a proper birth, and moored her, so as to +command all the shores around us. In the mean time a party of us went +ashore to pay the chief a visit, and to make the customary present. At our +first entering his house, we were met by four or five old women, weeping +and lamenting, as it were, most bitterly, and at the same time cutting +their heads, with instruments made of shark's teeth, till the blood ran +plentifully down their faces and on their shoulders. What was still worse, +we were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that +means were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony (for it was merely such) +being over, they went out, washed themselves, and immediately after +appeared as cheerful as any of the company. Having made some little stay, +and given my present to the chief and his friends, he put a hog and some +fruit into my boat, and came on board with us to dinner. In the afternoon, +we had a vast number of people and canoes about us, from different parts of +the island. They all took up their quarters in our neighbourhood, where +they remained feasting for some days. We understood the most of them were +_Eareeoies_. + +The 26th afforded nothing remarkable, excepting that Mr Forster, in his +botanical excursions, saw a burying-place for dogs, which they called +_Marai no te Oore_. But I think we ought not to look upon this as one +of their customs; because few dogs die a natural death, being generally, if +not always, killed and eaten, or else given as an offering to the gods. +Probably this might be a _Marai_ or altar, where this sort of offering +was made; or it might have been the whim of some person to have buried his +favourite dog in this manner. But be it as it will, I cannot think it is a +general custom in the nation; and, for my own part, I neither saw nor heard +of any such thing before. + +Early in the morning of the 27th, Oree, his wife, son, daughter, and +several more of his friends, made us a visit, and brought with them a good +quantity of all manner of refreshments; little having as yet been got from +any body else. They staid dinner; after which a party of us accompanied +them on shore, where we were entertained with a play, called _Mididij +Harramy_, which signifies the _Child is coming_. It concluded with +the representation of a woman in labour, acted by a set of great brawny +fellows, one of whom at last brought forth a strapping boy, about six feet +high, who ran about the stage, dragging after him a large wisp of straw +which hung by a string from his middle. I had an opportunity of seeing this +acted another time, when I observed, that the moment they had got hold of +the fellow who represented the child, they flattened or pressed his nose. +From this I judged, that they do so by their children when born, which may +be the reason why all in general have flat noses. This part of the play, +from its newness, and the ludicrous manner in which it was performed, gave +us, the first time we saw it, some entertainment, and caused a loud laugh, +which might be the reason why they acted it so often afterwards. But this, +like all their other pieces, could entertain us no more than once; +especially as we could gather little from them, for want of knowing more of +their language. + +The 28th was spent by me in much the same manner as the preceding day, viz. +in entertaining my friends, and being entertained by them. Mr Forster and +his party in the country botanizing. + +Next morning, we found several articles had been stolen, out of our boats +lying at the buoy, about sixty or seventy yards from the ship. As soon as I +was informed of it, I went to the chief to acquaint him therewith. I found +that he not only knew they were stolen, but by whom, and where they were; +and he went immediately with me in my boat in pursuit of them. After +proceeding a good way along shore, towards the south end of the island, the +chief ordered us to land near some houses, where we did not wait long +before all the articles were brought to us, except the pinnace's iron +tiller, which I was told was still farther off. But when I wanted to go +after it, I found the chief unwilling to proceed; and he actually gave me +the slip; and retired into the country. Without him I knew I could do +nothing. The people began to be alarmed when they saw I was for going +farther; by which I concluded that the tiller was out of their reach also. +I therefore sent one of them to the chief to desire him to return. He +returned accordingly; when we sat down, and had some victuals set before +us, thinking perhaps that, as I had not breakfasted, I must be hungry, and +not in a good humour. Thus I was amused, till two hogs were produced, which +they entreated me to accept. This I did, and then their fears vanished; and +I thought myself not ill off, in having gotten two good hogs for a thing +which seemed to be quite out of my reach. Matters being thus settled, we +returned on board, and had the company of the chief and his son to dinner. +After that we all went ashore, where a play was acted for the entertainment +of such as would spend their time in looking at it. Besides these plays, +which the chief caused frequently to be acted, there was a set of strolling +players in the neighbourhood, who performed everyday. But their pieces +seemed to be so much alike, that we soon grew tired of them; especially as +we could not collect any interesting circumstances from them. We, our ship, +and our country, were frequently brought on the stage; but on what account +I know not. It can hardly be doubted, that this was designed as a +compliment to us, and probably not acted but when some of us were present. +I generally appeared at Oree's theatre towards the close of the play, and +twice at the other, in order to give my mite to the actors. The only +actress at Oree's theatre was his daughter, a pretty brown girl, at whose +shrine, on these occasions, many offerings were made by her numerous +votaries. This, I believe, was one great inducement to her father's giving +us these entertainments so often. + +Early in the morning of the 30th, I set out with the two boats, accompanied +by the two Mr Forsters; Oedidee, the chief, his wife, son, and daughter, +for an estate which Oedidee called his, situated at the north end of the +island. There I was promised to have hogs and fruit in abundance; but when +we came there, we found that poor Oedidee could not command one single +thing, whatever right he might have to the _Whenooa_, which was now in +possession of his brother, who, soon after we landed, presented to me, with +the usual ceremony, two pigs. I made him a very handsome present in return, +and Oedidee gave him every thing he had left of what he had collected +during the time he was with us. + +After this ceremony was over, I ordered one of the pigs to be killed and +dressed for dinner, and attended myself to the whole operation, which was +as follows:--They first strangled the hog, which was done by three men; the +hog being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty strong stick across +his throat, and pressed with all their might on each end; the third man +held his hind legs, kept him on his back, and plugged up his fundament with +grass, I suppose to prevent any air from passing or repassing that way. In +this manner they held him for about ten minutes before he was quite dead. +In the mean time, some hands were employed in making a fire, to heat the +oven, which was close by. As soon as the hog was quite dead, they laid him +on the fire, and burnt or singed the hair, so that it came off with almost +the same ease as if it had been scalded. As the hair was got off one part, +another was applied to the fire till they had got off the whole, yet not so +clean but that another operation was necessary; which was to carry it to +the sea side, and there give it a good scrubbing with sandy stones, and +sand. This brought off all the scurf, &c. which the fire had left on. After +well washing off the sand and dirt, the carcase was brought again to the +former place, and laid on clean green leaves, in order to be opened. They +first ripped up the skin of the belly, and took out the fat or lard from +between the skin and the flesh, which they laid on a large green leaf. The +belly was then ripped open, and the entrails taken out, and carried away in +a basket, so that I know not what became of them; but am certain they were +not thrown away. The blood was next taken out, and put into a large leaf, +and then the lard, which was put to the other fat. The hog was now washed +clean, both inside and out, with fresh water, and several hot stones put +into his belly, which were shaken in under the breast, and green leaves +crammed in upon them. By this time the oven was sufficiently heated; what +fire remained was taken away, together with some of the hot stones; the +rest made a kind of pavement in the bottom of the hole or oven, and were +covered with leaves, on which the hog was placed on his belly. The lard and +fat, after being washed with water, were put into a vessel, made just then +of the green bark of the plantain tree, together with two or three hot +stones, and placed on one side the hog. A hot stone was put to the blood, +which was tied up in the leaf, and put into the oven; as also bread-fruit +and plantains. Then the whole was covered with green leaves, on which were +laid the remainder of the hot stones; over them were leaves; then any sort +of rubbish they could lay their hands on; finishing the operation by well +covering the whole with earth. While the victuals were baking, a table was +spread with green leaves on the floor, at one end of a large boat-house. At +the close of two hours and ten minutes, the oven was opened, and all the +victuals taken out. Those of the natives who dined with us, sat down by +themselves, at one end of the table, and we at the other. The hog was +placed before us, and the fat and blood before them, on which they chiefly +dined, and said it was _Mamity_, very good victuals; and we not only +said, but thought, the same of the pork. The hog weighed about fifty +pounds. Some parts about the ribs I thought rather overdone, but the more +fleshy parts were excellent; and the skin, which by the way of our dressing +can hardly be eaten, had, by this method, a taste and flavour superior to +any thing I ever met with of the kind. I have now only to add, that during +the whole of the various operations, they exhibited a cleanliness well +worthy of imitation. I have been the more particular in this account, +because I do not remember that any of us had seen the whole process before; +nor is it well described in the narrative of my former voyage. + +While dinner was preparing, I took a view of this _Whenooa_ of +Oedidee. It was a small, but a pleasant spot; and the houses were so +disposed as to form a very pretty village, which is very rarely the case at +these isles, Soon after we had dined, we set out for the ship, with the +other pig, and a few races of plantains, which proved to be the sum total +of our great expectations. + +In our return to the ship, we put ashore at a place where, in the corner of +a house, we saw four wooden images, each two feet long, standing on a +shelf, having a piece of cloth round their middle, and a kind of turban on +their heads, in which were stuck long feathers of cocks. A person in the +house told us they were _Eatua no te Toutou_, gods of the servants or +slaves. I doubt if this be sufficient to conclude that they pay them divine +worship, and that the servants or slaves are not allowed the same gods as +men of more elevated rank; I never heard that Tupia made any such +distinction, or that they worshipped any visible thing whatever. Besides, +these were the first wooden gods we had seen in any of the isles; and all +the authority we had for their being such, was the bare word of perhaps a +superstitious person, and whom, too, we were liable to misunderstand. It +must be allowed that the people of this isle are in general more +superstitious than at Otaheite. At the first visit I made the chief after +our arrival, he desired I would not suffer any of my people to shoot herons +and wood-peckers; birds as sacred with them as robin-red-breasts, swallows, +&c. are with many old women in England. Tupia, who was a priest, and well +acquainted with their religion, customs, traditions, &c. paid little or no +regard to these birds. I mention this, because some amongst us were of +opinion that these birds are their _Eatuas_, or gods. We indeed fell +into this opinion when I was here in 1769, and into some others still more +absurd, which we had undoubtedly adopted, if Tupia had not undeceived us. A +man of his knowledge and understanding we have not since met with, and +consequently have added nothing to his account of their religion but +superstitious notions. + +On the 31st, the people knowing that we should sail soon, began to bring +more fruit on board than usual. Among those who came was a young man who +measured six feet four inches and six-tenths; and his sister, younger, than +him, measured five feet ten inches and a half. + +1774 June + +A brisk trade for hogs and fruit continued on the 1st of June. On the 2d, +in the afternoon, we got intelligence that, three days before, two ships +had arrived at Huaheine. The same report said, the one was commanded by +Mr Banks, and the other by Captain Furneaux. The man who brought the +account said, he was made drunk on board one of them, and described the +persons of Mr Banks and Captain Furneaux so well, that I had not the +least doubt of the truth, and began to consider about sending a boat +over that very evening with orders to Captain Furneaux, when a man, a +friend of Mr Forster, happened to come on board and denied the whole, +saying it was _wa warre_, a lie. The man from whom we had the intelligence +was now gone, so that we could not confront them, and there were none +else present who knew any thing about it but by report; so that I laid +aside sending over a boat till I should be better informed. This evening +we entertained the people with fire-works, on one of the little isles +near the entrance of the harbour. + +I had fixed on the next day for sailing, but the intelligence from Huaheine +put a stop to it. The chief had promised to bring the man on board who +first brought the account; but he was either not to be found, or would not +appear. In the morning, the people were divided in their opinions; but in +the afternoon, all said it was a false report. I had sent Mr Clerke, in the +morning, to the farthest part of the island, to make enquiries there; he +returned without learning any thing satisfactory. In short, the report +appeared now too ill founded to authorize me to send a boat over, or to +wait any longer here; and therefore, early in the morning of the 4th, I got +every thing in readiness to sail. Oree the chief, and his whole family, +came on board, to take their last farewell, accompanied by Oo-oo-rou, the +_Earee di hi_, and Boba, the _Earee_ of Otaha, and several of +their friends. None of them came empty; but Oo-oo-rou brought a pretty +large present, this being his first and only visit. I distributed amongst +them almost every thing I had left. The very hospitable manner in which I +had ever been received by these people, had endeared them to me, and given +them a just title to everything in my power to grant. I questioned them +again about the ships at Huaheine; and they all, to a man, denied that any +were there. During the time these people remained on board, they were +continually importuning me to return. The chief, his wife and daughter, but +especially the two latter, scarcely ever ceased weeping. I will not pretend +to say whether it was real or feigned grief they shewed on this occasion. +Perhaps there was a mixture of both; but were I to abide by my own opinion +only, I should believe it was real. At last, when we were about to weigh, +they took a most affectionate leave. Oree's last request was for me to +return; when he saw he could not obtain that promise, he asked the name of +my _Marai_ (burying-place). As strange a question as this was, I +hesitated not a moment to tell him Stepney; the parish in which I live when +in London. I was made to repeat it several times over till they could +pronounce it; then, Stepney _Marai no Toote_ was echoed through an +hundred mouths at once. I afterwards found the same question had been put +to Mr Forster by a man on shore; but he gave a different, and indeed more +proper answer, by saying, no man, who used the sea, could say where he +should be buried. It is the custom, at these isles, for all the great +families to have burial-places of their own, where their remains are +interred. These go with the estate to the next heir. The _Marai_ at +Oparee in Otaheite, when Tootaha swayed the sceptre, was called _Marai no +Tootaha_; but now it is called _Marai no Otoo_. What greater proof +could we have of these people esteeming us as friends, than their wishing +to remember us, even beyond the period of our lives? They had been +repeatedly told that we should see them no more; they then wanted to know +where we were to mingle with our parent dust. As I could not promise, or +even suppose, that more English ships would be sent to those isles, our +faithful companion Oedidee chose to remain in his native country. But he +left us with a regret fully demonstrative of the esteem he bore to us; nor +could any thing but the fear of never returning, have torn him from us. +When the chief teased me so much about returning, I sometimes gave such +answers as left them hopes. Oedidee would instantly catch at this, take me +on one side, and ask me over again. In short, I have not words to describe +the anguish which appeared in this young man's breast when he went away. He +looked up at the ship, burst into tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. +The maxim, that a prophet has no honour in his own country, was never more +fully verified than in this youth. At Otaheite he might have had any thing +that was in their power to bestow; whereas here he was not in the least +noticed. He was a youth of good parts, and, like most of his countrymen, of +a docile, gentle, and humane disposition, but in a manner wholly ignorant +of their religion, government, manners, customs, and traditions; +consequently no material knowledge could have been gathered from him, had I +brought him away. Indeed, he would have been a better specimen of the +nation, in every respect, than Omai. Just as Oedidee was going out of the +ship, he asked me to _Tatou_ some _Parou_ for him, in order to +shew the commanders of any other ships which might stop here. I complied +with his request, gave him a certificate of the time he had been with us, +and recommended him to the notice of those who might afterwards touch at +the island. + +We did not get clear of our friends till eleven o'clock, when we weighed, +and put to sea; but Oedidee did not leave us till we were almost out of the +harbour. He staid, in order to fire some guns; for it being his majesty's +birthday, we fired the salute at going away. + +When I first came to these islands, I had some thought of visiting Tupia's +famous Bolabola. But as I had now got on board a plentiful supply of all +manner of refreshments, and the route I had in view allowing me no time to +spare, I laid this design aside, and directed my course to the west; taking +our final leave of these happy isles, on which benevolent Nature has spread +her luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand. The natives, copying the bounty of +Nature, are equally liberal; contributing plentifully and cheerfully to the +wants of navigators. During the six weeks we had remained at them, we had +fresh pork, and all the fruits which were in season, in the utmost +profusion; besides fish at Otaheite, and fowls at the other isles. All +these articles we got in exchange for axes, hatchets, nails, chissels, +cloth, red feathers, beads, knives, scissars, looking-glasses, &c. articles +which will ever be valuable here. I ought not to omit shirts as a very +capital article in making presents; especially with those who have any +connexion with the fair sex. A shirt here is full as necessary as a piece +of gold in England. The ladies at Otaheite, after they had pretty well +stripped their lovers of shirts, found a method of clothing themselves with +their own cloth. It was their custom to go on shore every morning, and to +return on board in the evening, generally clad in rags. This furnished a +pretence to importune the lover for better clothes; and when he had no more +of his own, he was to dress them in new cloth of the country, which they +always left ashore; and appearing again in rags, they must again be +clothed. So that the same suit might pass through twenty different hands, +and be as often sold, bought, and given away. + +Before I finish this account of these islands, it is necessary to mention +all I know concerning the government of Ulietea and Otaha. Oree, so often +mentioned, is a native of Bolabola; but is possessed of _Whenooas_ or +lands at Ulietea; which I suppose he, as well as many of his countrymen, +got at the conquest. He resides here as Opoony's lieutenant; seeming to be +vested with regal authority, and to be the supreme magistrate in the +island. Oo-oo-rou, who is the _Earee_ by hereditary right, seems to +have little more left him than the bare title, and his own _Whenooa_ +or district, in which I think he is sovereign. I have always seen Oree pay +him the respect due to his rank; and he was pleased when he saw me +distinguish him from others. + +Otaha, so far as I can find, is upon the very same footing. Boba and Ota +are the two chiefs; the latter I have not seen; Boba is a stout, well-made +young man; and we were told is, after Opoony's death, to marry his +daughter, by which marriage he will be vested with the same regal authority +as Opoony has now; so that it should seem, though a woman may be vested +with regal dignity, she cannot have regal power. I cannot find that Opoony +has got any thing to himself by the conquest of these isles, any farther +than providing for his nobles, who have seized on best part of the lands. +He seems to have no demand on them for any of the many articles they have +had from us. Oedidee has several times enumerated to me all the axes, +nails, &c. which Opoony is possessed of, which hardly amount to as many as +he had from me when I saw him in 1769. Old as this famous man is, he seems +not to spend his last days in indolence. When we first arrived here, he was +at Maurana; soon after he returned to Bolabola; and we were now told, he +was gone to Tubi. + +I shall conclude this account of these islands, with some observations on +the watch which Mr Wales hath communicated to me. At our arrival in Matavai +Bay in Otaheite, the longitude pointed out by the watch was 2 deg. 8' 38" 1/2 too +far to the west; that is, it had gained, since our leaving Queen +Charlotte's Sound, of its then rate of going, 8' 34" 1/2. This was in about +five months, or rather more, during which time it had passed through the +extremes of cold and heat. It was judged that half this error arose after +we left Easter Island; by which it appeared that it went better in the cold +than in the hot climates. + + +END VOLUME I. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of A Voyage Towards the South Pole and +Round the World, Volume 1, by James Cook + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH *** + +***** This file should be named 15777.txt or 15777.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/7/7/15777/ + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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