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diff --git a/15547-8.txt b/15547-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..b57cdec --- /dev/null +++ b/15547-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3817 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Life of Robert Louis Stevenson for Boys +and Girls, by Jacqueline M. Overton + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Life of Robert Louis Stevenson for Boys and Girls + +Author: Jacqueline M. Overton + +Release Date: April 4, 2005 [EBook #15547] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LIFE OF ROBERT LOUIS *** + + + + +Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Govert Schipper and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + + + + THE LIFE OF + + ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON + + FOR BOYS AND GIRLS + + + + BY + + JACQUELINE M. OVERTON + + + + + NEW YORK + + CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS + + 1933 + + + + +[Illustration: Robert Louis Stevenson, from a photograph by Mr. Lloyd +Osbourne] + + + + + TO THE BOYS AT THE YORKVILLE LIBRARY + AND + TO ALL OTHER BOYS + WHO LOVE TO TRAMP AND CAMP AND SEEK ADVENTURE + I DEDICATE THIS BOOK + WITH THE HOPE OF MAKING THEM + BETTER FRIENDS WITH A MAN WHO ALSO + LOVED THESE THINGS + + + + +CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER PAGE + + I. THE LIGHTHOUSE BUILDERS 3 + + II. ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON 16 + + III. THE LANTERN BEARER 31 + + IV. EDINBURGH DAYS 47 + + V. AMATEUR EMIGRANT 72 + + VI. SCOTLAND AGAIN 93 + + VII. SECOND VISIT TO AMERICA 108 + +VIII. IN THE SOUTH SEAS 121 + + IX. VAILIMA 148 + + BIBLIOGRAPHY 175 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + +Robert Louis Stevenson _Frontispiece_ + From a photograph by Mr. Lloyd Osbourne + FACING + PAGE + +No. 8 Howard Place, Edinburgh, Stevenson's birthplace 18 + +Colinton Manse 26 + +Swanston Cottage 42 + +Edinburgh Castle 64 + +Skerryvore Cottage, Bournemouth 98 + +The Treasure Island map 100 + +Facsimile of letter sent to Cummy with "An Inland Voyage" 106 + +Bas-relief of Stevenson by Augustus Saint Gaudens 112 + +South Sea houses 130 + +The house at Vailima 154 + +A feast of chiefs 162 + +The tomb of Stevenson on Væa Mountain 172 + + + + + THE LIFE OF + + ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON + + FOR BOYS AND GIRLS + + + + + "Write me as one who loves his fellowmen." + --HUNT. + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE LIGHTHOUSE BUILDERS + + "... For the sake + Of these, my kinsmen and my countrymen, + Who early and late in the windy ocean toiled + To plant a star for seamen." + + +The pirate, Ralph the Rover, so legend tells, while cruising off the +coast of Scotland searching for booty or sport, sank the warning bell on +one of the great rocks, to plague the good Abbot of Arbroath who had put +it there. The following year the Rover returned and perished himself on +the same rock. + +In the life of one of Scotland's great men, Robert Louis Stevenson, we +find proud record of his grandfather, Robert Stevenson, having built +Bell Rock Lighthouse on this same spot years afterward. + +No story of Robert Louis Stevenson's life would be complete that failed +to mention the work done for Scotland and the world at large by the two +men he held most dear, the engineers, his father and grandfather. + +When Robert Stevenson, his grandfather, received his appointment on the +Board of Northern Lights the art of lighthouse building in Scotland had +just begun. Its bleak, rocky shores were world-famous for their danger, +and few mariners cared to venture around them. At that time the coast +"was lighted at a single point, the Isle of May, in the jaws of the +Firth of Forth, where, on a tower already a hundred and fifty years old, +an open coal-fire blazed in an open chaufer. The whole archipelago thus +nightly plunged in darkness was shunned by seagoing vessels." [Footnote: +Stevenson, "Family of Engineers."] + +The board at first proposed building four new lights, but afterward +built many more, so that to-day Scotland stands foremost among the +nations for the number and splendor of her coast lights. + +Their construction in those early days meant working against tremendous +obstacles and dangers, and the life of the engineer was a hazardous one. + +"The seas into which his labors carried him were still scarce charted, +the coasts still dark; his way on shore was often far beyond the +convenience of any road; the isles in which he must sojourn were still +partly savage. He must toss much in boats; he must often adventure much +on horseback by dubious bridle-track through unfrequented wildernesses; +he must sometimes plant his lighthouses in the very camp of wreckers. + +"The aid of steam was not yet. At first in random coasting sloop, and +afterwards in the cutter belonging to the service, the engineer must ply +and run amongst these multiplied dangers and sometimes late into the +stormy autumn." + +All of which failed to daunt Robert Stevenson who loved action and +adventure and the scent of things romantic. + +"Not only had towers to be built and apparatus transplanted, the supply +of oil must be maintained and the men fed, in the same inaccessible and +distant scenes, a whole service with its routine ... had to be called +out of nothing; and a new trade (that of light-keeper) to be taught, +recruited and organized." + +Bell Rock was only one of twenty lighthouses Robert Stevenson helped to +build, but it was by far the most difficult one ... and even to-day, +after it has been lighted for more than a hundred years, it still +remains unique--a monument to his skill. + +Bell Rock was practically a reef completely submerged at full tide and +only a few feet of its crest visible at low water. To raise a tower on +it meant placing a foundation under water, a new and perilous +experiment. + +"Work upon the rock in the earliest stages was confined to the calmest +days of the summer season, when the tides were lowest, the water +smoothest, and the wind in its calmest mood. Under such conditions the +men were able to stay on the site for about five hours.... + +"One distinct drawback was the necessity to establish a depot some +distance from the erecting site. Those were the days before steam +navigation, and the capricious sailing craft offered the only means of +maintaining communication between rock and shore, and for the conveyance +of men and materials to and fro.... + +"A temporary beacon was placed on the reef, while adjacent to the site +selected for the tower a smith's forge was made fast, so as to withstand +the dragging motion of the waves when the rock was submerged. The men +were housed on the _Smeaton_, which, during the spells of work on the +rock, rode at anchor a short distance away in deep water." [Footnote: +Talbot, "Lightships and Lighthouses."] + +Once the engineers were all but lost when the _Smeaton_ slipped her +moorings and left them stranded on the rock. + +In spite of all the obstacles, the work was completed at the end of two +years and the light was shown for the first time February 1, 1811. + +"I found Robert Stevenson an appreciative and intelligent companion," +writes Sir Walter Scott in his journal, speaking of a cruise he made +among the islands of Scotland with a party of engineers. The notes made +by him on this trip were used afterward in his two stories, "The Pirate" +and "Lord of the Isles." + +"My grandfather was king in the service to his finger-tips," wrote Louis +Stevenson. "All should go his way, from the principal light-keeper's +coat to the assistant's fender, from the gravel in the garden walks to +the bad smell in the kitchen, or the oil spots on the storeroom floor. +It might be thought there was nothing more calculated to awaken men's +resentment, and yet his rule was not more thorough than it was +beneficent. His thought for the keepers was continual.... When a keeper +was sick, he lent him his horse and sent him mutton and brandy from the +ship.... They dwelt, many of them, in uninhabited isles or desert +forelands, totally cut off from shops. + +"No servant of the Northern Lights came to Edinburgh but he was +entertained at Baxter Place. There at his own table my grandfather sat +down delightedly with his broad-spoken, homespun officers." + +As he grew old his "medicine and delight" was his annual trip among his +lighthouses, but at length there came a time when this joy was taken +away from him and there came "the end of all his cruising; the knowledge +that he had looked the last on Sunburgh, and the wild crags of Skye, and +the Sound of Mull; that he was never again to hear the surf break in +Clashcarnock; never again to see lighthouse after lighthouse (all +younger than himself, and the more, part of his own device) open in the +hour of dusk their flower of fire, or the topaz and ruby interchange on +the summit of Bell Rock." + +Throughout the rank and file of his men he was adored. "I have spoken +with many who knew him; I was his grandson, and their words may very +well have been words of flattery; but there was one thing that could +not be affected, and that was the look that came over their faces at the +name of Robert Stevenson." + +Of his family of thirteen children, three of his sons became engineers. +Thomas Stevenson, the father of Robert Louis, like the others of his +family, contributed largely to lighthouse building and harbor +improvement, serving under his older brother, Allen, in building the +Skerryvore, one of the most famous deep-sea lights erected on a +treacherous reef off the west coast where, for more than forty years, +one wreck after another had occurred. + +"From the navigator's point of view, the danger of this spot lay chiefly +in the fact that it was so widely scattered. The ridge runs like a +broken backbone for a distance of some eight miles.... In rough weather +the whole of the rocks are covered, and the waves, beating heavily on +the mass, convert the scene into one of indescribable tumult.... + +"There was only one point where a tower could be placed, and this was +so exposed that the safe handling of men and material constituted a +grave responsibility." + +It was necessary to erect a tower one hundred and thirty feet high; "the +loftiest and weightiest work of its character that had ever been +contemplated up to this time.... + +"The Atlantic swell, which rendered landing on the ridge precarious and +hazardous, did not permit the men to be housed upon a floating home, as +had been the practice in the early days of the Bell Rock tower. In order +to permit the work to go forward as uninterruptedly as the sea would +allow, a peculiar barrack was erected. It was a house on stilts, the +legs being sunk firmly into the rock, with the living quarters perched +some fifty feet up in the air. + +"Residence in this tower was eerie. The men climbed the ladder and +entered a small room, which served the purposes of kitchen, living-room, +and parlor.... + +"When a storm was raging, the waves, as they combed over the rock, +shook the legs violently and scurried under the floor in seething foam. +Now and again a roller, rising higher than its fellows, broke upon the +rock and sent a mass of water against the flooring to hammer at the +door. Above the living-room were the sleeping quarters, high and dry, +save when a shower of spray fell upon the roof and walls like heavy +hail.... The men, however, were not perturbed. Sleeping, even under such +conditions, was far preferable to doubtful rest in a bunk upon an +attendant vessel, rolling and pitching with the motion of the sea. They +had had a surfeit of such experience ... while the barrack was under +erection. + +"For two years it withstood the seas without incident, and the engineer +and men came to regard the eyrie as safe as a house on shore. But one +night the little colony received a shock. The angry Atlantic got one or +two of its trip-hammer blows well home, and smashed the structure to +fragments. Fortunately, at the time it was untenanted." + +No time was lost in rebuilding the barrack and this time it withstood +all tests until it was torn down after Skerryvore was finished. + +"While the foundations were being prepared, and until the barrack was +constructed, the men ran other terrible risks every morning and night +landing upon and leaving the polished surface of the reef. Five months +during the summer was the working season, but even then many days and +weeks were often lost owing to the swell being too great to permit the +rowing boat to come alongside. The engineer relates that the work was 'a +good lesson in the school of patience,' because the delays were frequent +and galling, while every storm which got up and expended its rage upon +the reef left its mark indelibly among the engineer's stock in trade. +Cranes and other materials were swept away as if they were corks; +lashings, no matter how strong, were snapped like pack-threads. + +"Probably the worst experience was when the men on the rock were +weather-bound for seven weeks during one season.... Their provisions +sank to a very low level, they ran short of fuel, their sodden clothing +was worn to rags.... + +"Six years were occupied in the completion of the work, and, as may be +imagined, the final touches were welcomed with thankfulness by those who +had been concerned in the enterprise." + +It was in meteorological researches and illumination of lighthouses, +however, that Thomas Stevenson did his greatest work. It was he who +brought to perfection the revolving light now so generally used. + +In spite of this and other valuable inventions his name has remained +little known, owing to the fact that none of his inventions were ever +patented. The Stevensons believed that, holding government appointments, +any original work they did belonged to the nation. "A patent not only +brings in money but spreads reputation," writes his son, "and my +father's instruments enter anonymously into a hundred light rooms and +are passed anonymously over in a hundred reports, where the least +considerable patent would stand out and tell its author's story." + +He was beloved among a wide circle of friends and the esteem of those in +his profession was shown when in 1884 they chose him for president of +the Royal Society of Edinburgh. To the general public, however, he +remained unknown in spite of the fact that "His lights were in all parts +of the world guiding the mariners." + + + + +CHAPTER II + +ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON + + "As from the house your mother sees + You playing round the garden trees, + So you may see, if you will look + Through the window of this book, + Another child, far, far away, + And in another garden, play." + + --"Child's Garden of Verses." + + +Robert Louis Balfour Stevenson was born at No. 8 Howard Place, +Edinburgh, Scotland, November 13, 1850. + +In 1852 the family moved from Howard Place to Inverleith Terrace, and +two years later to No. 17 Heriot Row, which remained their home for many +years. + +As a child Louis was very delicate and often ill, for years hardly a +winter passed that he did not spend many days in bed. + +Edinburgh in winter is extremely damp and he tells us: "Many winters I +never crossed the threshold, but used to lie on my face on the nursery +floor, chalking or painting in water-colors the pictures in the +illustrated newspapers; or sit up in bed with a little shawl pinned +about my shoulders, to play with bricks or what not." + +The diverting history of "Hop-O'-My-Thumb" and the "Seven-League Boots," +"Little Arthur's History of England," "Peter Parley's Historical Tales," +and "Harry's Ladder to Learning" were books which he delighted to pore +over and their pages bore many traces of his skill with the pencil and +paint-brush. + +Those who have read the "Child's Garden of Verses" already know the +doings of his childish days, for although those rhymes were not written +until he was a grown man he was "one of the few who do not forget their +own lives" and "through the windows of this book" gives us a vivid and +living picture of the boy who dwelt so much in a world of his own with +his quaint thoughts. + +If his body was frail his spirit was strong and his power of +imagination so great that he cheered himself through many a weary day by +playing he was "captain of a tidy little ship," a soldier, a fierce +pirate, an Indian chief, or an explorer in foreign lands. Miles he +travelled in his little bed. + + "I have just to shut my eyes, + To go sailing through the skies-- + To go sailing far away + To the pleasant Land of Play" + +he says. + +[Illustration: No. 8 Howard Place, Edinburgh, Stevenson's birthplace] + +In spite of his power for amusing himself, days like these would have +gone far harder had it not been for two devoted people, his mother and +his nurse, Alison Cunningham or "Cummie" as he called her. His mother +was devoted to him in every way and encouraged his love for reading and +story-making. She kept a diary of his progress from day to day, and +treasured every picture he drew or scrap he wrote. Cummie came to him as +a Torryburn lassie when he was eighteen months old and was like a second +mother to him. She not only cared for his bodily comforts but was his +friend and comrade as well. She sang for him, danced for him, spun fine +tales of pirates and smugglers, and read to him so dramatically that his +mind was fired then and there with a longing for travel and adventure +which he never lost. When they took their walks through the streets +together Cummie had many stories to tell him of Scotland and Edinburgh +in the old days. For Edinburgh is a wonderful old city with a wonderful +history full of tales of stirring adventure and romance. "For centuries +it was a capitol thatched with heather and more than once, in the evil +days of English invasion, it has gone up in flames to Heaven, a beacon +to ships at sea.... It was the jousting-ground of jealous nobles, not +only on Greenside or by the King's Stables, where set tournaments were +fought to the sound of trumpets and under the authority of the royal +presence, but in every alley where there was room to cross swords.... In +the town, in one of those little shops plastered like so many swallows' +nests among the buttresses of the old Cathedral, that familiar autocrat +James VI. would gladly share a bottle of wine with George Heriot the +goldsmith. Up on the Pentland Hills, that so quietly look down on the +castle with the city lying in waves around it, those mad and dismal +fanatics, the Sweet Singers, haggard from long exposure on the moors, +sat day and night 'with tearful psalms.'... In the Grassmarket, +stiff-necked covenanting heroes offered up the often unnecessary, but +not less honorable, sacrifice of their lives, and bade eloquent farewell +to sun, moon and stars and earthly friendships, or died silent to the +roll of the drums. Down by yon outlet rode Grahame of Claverhouse and +his thirty dragoons, with the town beating to arms behind their horses' +tails--a sorry handful thus riding for their lives, but with a man at +their head who was to return in a different temper, make a bold dash +that staggered Scotland, and die happily in the thick of the fight.... + +"The palace of Holyrood is a house of many memories.... Great people of +yore, kings and queens, buffoons and grave ambassadors played their +stately farce for centuries in Holyrood. Wars have been plotted, dancing +has lasted deep into the night, murder has been done in its chambers. +There Prince Charlie held his phantom levées and in a very gallant +manner represented a fallen dynasty for some hours.... + +"There is an old story of the subterranean passage between the castle +and Holyrood and a bold Highland piper who volunteered to explore its +windings. He made his entrance by the upper end, playing a strathspey; +the curious footed it after him down the street, following his descent +by the sound of the chanter from below; until all of a sudden, about the +level of St. Giles the music came abruptly to an end, and the people in +the street stood at fault with hands uplifted. Whether he choked with +gases, or perished in a quag, or was removed bodily by the Evil One, +remains a point of doubt, but the piper has never again been seen or +heard of from that day to this. Perhaps he wandered down into the land +of Thomas the Rhymer, and some day, when it is least expected, may take +a thought to revisit the sunlit upper world. That will be a strange +moment for the cabmen on the stands beside St. Giles, when they hear the +crone of his pipes reascending from the earth below their horses' feet." + +In Edinburgh to-day there are armed men and cannon in the castle high up +on the great rock above you: "You may see the troops marshalled on the +high parade, and at night after the early winter evenfall and in the +morning before the laggard winter dawn, the wind carries abroad over +Edinburgh the sounds of drums and bugles." (Stevenson, "Essay on +Edinburgh.") + +Long before Louis could write he made up verses and stories for himself, +and Cummie wrote them down for him. "I thought they were rare nonsense +then," she said, little dreaming that these same bits of "rare +nonsense" were the beginnings of what was to make "her boy" famous +across two seas in years to come. + +He writes of her when speaking of long nights he lay awake unable to +sleep because of a troublesome cough: "How well I remember her lifting +me out of bed, carrying me to the window and showing me one or two lit +windows up in Queen Street across the dark belt of garden, where also, +we told each other, there might be sick little boys and their nurses +waiting, like us, for the morning." + +Her devotion to him had its reward in the love he gave her all his life. +One of his early essays written when he was twenty and published in the +_Juvenilia_ was called "Nurses." Fifteen years later came the +publication of the "Child's Garden of Verses" with a splendid tribute to +her as a dedication. He sent her copies of all his books, wrote letters +to her, and invited her to visit him. She herself tells that the last +time she ever saw him he said to her, "before a room full of people, +'It's _you_ that gave me a passion for the drama, Cummie,' 'Me, Master +Lou,' I said, 'I never put foot inside a playhouse in my life.' 'Ay, +woman,' said he, 'but it was the good dramatic way ye had of reciting +the hymns.'" + +When he was six years old his Uncle David offered a Bible picture-book +as a prize to the nephews who could write the best history of Moses. + +This was Louis's first real literary attempt. He was not able to write +himself, but dictated to his mother and illustrated the story and its +cover with pictures which he designed and painted himself. + +He won the prize and from that time, his mother says, "it was the desire +of his heart to be an author." + +During the winter of 1856-57 his favorite cousin, Robert Alan Mowbray +Stevenson, usually called Bob, visited them; a great treat for Louis, +not only because his ill health kept him from making many companions of +his own age, but because Bob loved many of the same things he did and to +"make believe" was as much a part of his life as Louis's. Many fine +games they had together; built toy theatres, the scenery and characters +for which they bought for a "penny plain and twopence colored," and were +never tired of dressing up. One of their chief delights, he says, was in +"rival kingdoms of our own invention--Nosingtonia and Encyclopædia, of +which we were perpetually drawing maps." Even the eating of porridge at +breakfast became a game. Bob ate his with sugar and said it was an +island covered with snow with here a mountain and there a valley; while +Louis's was an island flooded by milk which gradually disappeared bit by +bit. + +In the spring and summer his mother took him for short trips to the +watering-places near Edinburgh. But the spot unlike all others for a +real visit was at Colinton Manse, the home of his grandfather, the +Reverend Lewis Balfour, at Colinton, on the Water of Leith, five miles +southwest of Edinburgh. Here he spent glorious days. Not only was there +the house and garden, both rare spots for one of an exploring turn of +mind, but, best of all, there were the numerous cousins of his own age +sent out from India, where their parents were, to be nursed and educated +under the loving eye of Aunt Jane Balfour, for whom he wrote: + + "Chief of our aunts--not only I, + But all the dozen nurslings cry-- + What did the other children do? + And what was childhood, wanting you?" + +[Illustration: Colinton Manse] + +If Louis lacked brothers and sisters he had no dearth of cousins, fifty +in all they numbered, many of them near his own age. Alan Stevenson, +Henrietta and Willie Traquair seem to have been his favorite chums at +Colinton. + +Of his grandfather Balfour he says: "We children admired him, partly for +his beautiful face and silver hair ... partly for the solemn light in +which we beheld him once a week, the observed of all observers in the +pulpit. But his strictness and distance, the effect, I now fancy, of old +age, slow blood, and settled habits, oppressed us with a kind of terror. +When not abroad, he sat much alone writing sermons or letters to his +scattered family.... The study had a redeeming grace in many Indian +pictures gaudily colored and dear to young eyes.... When I was once sent +in to say a psalm to my grandfather, I went, quaking indeed with fear, +but at the same time glowing with hope that, if I said it well, he might +reward me with an Indian picture." + +"There were two ways of entering the Manse garden," he says, "one the +two-winged gate that admitted the old phaeton and the other a door for +pedestrians on the side next the kirk.... On the left hand were the +stables, coach-houses and washing houses, clustered around a small, +paved court.... Once past the stable you were fairly within the garden. +On summer afternoons the sloping lawn was literally _steeped_ in +sunshine.... + +"The wall of the church faces the manse, but the church yard is on a +level with the top of the wall ... and the tombstones are visible from +the enclosure of the manse.... Under the retaining wall was a somewhat +dark pathway, extending from the stable to the far end of the garden, +and called the 'witches' walk' from a game we used to play in it.... +Even out of the 'witches' walk' you saw the Manse facing toward you, +with its back to the river and the wooded bank, and the bright +flower-plots and stretches of comfortable vegetables in front and on +each side of it; flower plots and vegetable borders, by the way, on +which it was almost death to set foot, and about which we held a curious +belief,--namely, that my grandfather went round and measured any +footprints that he saw, to compare the measurement at night with the +boots put out for brushing; to avoid which we were accustomed, by a +strategic movement of the foot to make the mark longer.... + +"So much for the garden; now follow me into the house. On entering the +door you had before you a stone paved lobby.... There stood a case of +foreign birds, two or three marble deities from India and a lily of the +Nile in a pot, and at the far end the stairs shut in the view. With how +many games of 'tig' or brick-building in the forenoon is the long low +dining room connected in my mind! The storeroom was a most voluptuous +place, with its piles of biscuit boxes and spice tins, the rack for +buttered eggs, the little window that let in the sunshine and the +flickering shadows of leaves, and the strong sweet odor of everything +that pleaseth the taste of men.... + +"Opposite the study was the parlor, a small room crammed full of +furniture and covered with portraits, with a cabinet at the side full of +foreign curiosities, and a sort of anatomical trophy on the top. During +a grand cleaning of the apartment I remember all the furniture was +ranged on a circular grass plot between the churchyard and the house. It +was a lovely still summer evening, and I stayed out, climbing among the +chairs and sofas. Falling on a large bone or skull, I asked what it was. +Part of an albatross, auntie told me. 'What is an albatross?' I asked, +and then she described to me this great bird nearly as big as a house, +that you saw out miles away from any land, sleeping above the vast and +desolate ocean. She told me that the _Ancient Mariner_ was all about +one; and quoted with great _verve_ (she had a duster in her hand, I +recollect)-- + + 'With my crossbow + I shot the albatross.' + +... Willie had a crossbow, but up to this date I had never envied him +its possession. After this, however, it became one of the objects of my +life." + +With many playmates, free to roam and romp as he chose, his illness +forgotten, it is no wonder he says he felt as if he led two lives, one +belonging to Edinburgh and one to the country, and that Colinton ever +remained an enchanted spot to which it was always hard to say good-by. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE LANTERN BEARER + + "Perhaps there lives some dreamy boy, untaught + In school, some graduate of the field or street, + Who shall become a master of the art, + An admiral sailing the high seas of thought, + Fearless and first, and steering with his fleet + For lands not yet laid down on any chart." + + --LONGFELLOW. + + +School days began for Louis in 1859, but were continually interrupted by +illness, travel, and change of school. His father did not believe in +forcing him to study; so he roamed through school according to his own +sweet will, attending classes where he cared to, interesting himself in +the subjects that appealed to him--Latin, French, and +mathematics--neglecting the others and bringing home no prizes, to +Cummie's distress. + +Certain books were his prime favorites at this time. "Robinson Crusoe," +he says, "and some of the books of Mayne Reid and a book called Paul +Blake--Swiss Family Robinson also. At these I played, conjured up their +scenes and delighted to hear them rehearsed to seventy times seven. + +"My father's library was a spot of some austerity; the proceedings of +learned societies, cyclopædias, physical science and above all, optics +held the chief place upon the shelves, and it was only in holes and +corners that anything legible existed as if by accident. Parents' +Assistant, Rob Roy, Waverley and Guy Mannering, Pilgrim's Progress, +Voyages of Capt. Woods Rogers, Ainsworth's Tower of London and four old +volumes of Punch--these were among the chief exceptions. + +"In these latter which made for years the chief of my diet, I very early +fell in love (almost as soon as I could spell) with the Snob Papers. I +knew them almost by heart ... and I remember my surprise when I found +long afterward that they were famous, and signed with a famous name; to +me, as I read and admired them, they were the works of Mr. Punch." + +Two old Bibles interested him particularly. They had belonged to his +grandfather Stevenson and contained many marked passages and notes +telling how they had been read aboard lighthouse tenders and on tours of +inspection among the islands. + +After he was thirteen his health was greatly improved and he was able to +enjoy the comradeship of other lads, though he never cared greatly for +sports. He was the leader of a number of boys who used to go about +playing tricks on the neighbors--"tapping on their windows after +nightfall, and all manner of wild freaks." + +"Crusoing" was a favorite game and its name stood for all picnicking in +the open air, building bonfires and cooking apples, but the crowning +sport of all was "Lantern Bearing," a game invented by himself and +shared by a dozen of his cronies. + +"Toward the end of September," he says, "when school time was drawing +near and the nights were already black, we would begin to sally from +our respective villas, each equipped with a tin bull's-eye lantern.... +We wore them buckled to the waist upon a cricket belt, and over them, +such was the rigor of the game, a buttoned top-coat. They smelled +noxiously of blistered tin; they never burned aright, though they would +always burn our fingers; their use was naught; the pleasure of them +merely fanciful; and yet a boy with a bull's-eye under his top-coat +asked for nothing more. + +"When two of these asses met there would be an anxious, 'Have you your +lantern?' and a gratified 'Yes,' That was the shibboleth, and a very +needful one too; for as it was the rule to keep our glory contained, +none could recognize a lantern-bearer, unless like a polecat, by the +smell. + +"The essence of this bliss was to walk by yourself in the black night, +the slide shut, the top-coat buttoned, not a ray escaping whether to +conduct your footsteps or make your glory public, a mere pillar of +darkness in the dark, and all the while, deep down in the privacy of +your fool's heart, to know you had a bull's-eye at your belt and exult +and sing over the knowledge." + +In later years one of the Lantern Bearers describes Louis as he was +then. "A slender, long legged boy in pepper and salt tweeds, with an +undescribable influence that forced us to include him in our play as a +looker on, critic and slave driver.... No one had the remotest intention +of competing with R.L.S. in story making, and his tales, had we known +it, were such as the world would listen to in silence and wonder." + +At home and at his last school he was always starting magazines. The +stories were illustrated with much color and the magazines circulated +among the boys for a penny a reading. One was called _The Sunbeam +Magazine_, an illustrated miscellany of fact, fiction, and fun, and +another _The School Boy Magazine_. The latter contained four stories and +its readers must have been hard to satisfy if they did not have their +fill of horrors--"regular crawlers," Louis called them. In the first +tale, "The Adventures of Jan Van Steen," the hero is left hidden in a +boiler under which a fire is lit. The second is a "Ghost Story" of +robbers in a deserted castle.... The third is called, "by curious +anticipation of a story he was to write later on, 'The Wreckers.'" + +Numerous plays and novels he began but they eventually found their fate +in the trash basket. An exception to this was a small green pamphlet of +twenty pages called "The Pentland Rising, a page of history, 1666." It +was published through his father's interest on the two-hundredth +anniversary of the fight at Rullion Green. This event in Scotland's +history had been impressed on his mind by the numerous stories. Cummie +had told him of the Covenanters and the fact that they had spent the +night before their defeat in the town of Colinton. + +From the time he was a little chap, balancing on the limb of an +apple-tree in the Colinton garden trying to see what kind of a world +lay beyond the garden wall, Louis had had a longing to travel and see +sights. This began to find satisfaction now. + +His father took him on a trip around the coast of Fife, visiting the +harbor lights. The little towns along the coast were already familiar to +him by the stories of the past. Dunfermline, where, according to the +ballad, Scotland's king once "sat in his tower drinking blood-red wine"; +Kerkcaldy, where the witches used to sink "tall ships and honest +mariners in the North Sea"; and "Wemyss with its bat-haunted caves, +where the Chevalier Johnstone on his flight from Colloden passed a night +of superstitious terrors." + +Later the family made a trip to the English Lakes and in the winter of +the same year to the south of France, where they stayed two months, then +making a tour through Italy and Switzerland. The following Christmas +found Louis and his mother again in Mentone, where they stayed until +spring. + +French was one of his favorite studies at school, and now after a few +months among French people he was able to speak fluently. Indeed, in +after life he was often mistaken for a Frenchman. + +His French teacher on his second visit to Mentone gave him no regular +lessons, but "merely talked to him in French, teaching him piquet and +card tricks, introducing him to various French people and taking him to +concerts and other places; so, his mother remarks, like Louis' other +teachers at home I think they found it pleasanter to talk to him then to +teach him." + +After their return to Edinburgh came the time when, his school days +finished, Louis must make up his mind what his career is to be and train +himself for it. + +Even then he knew what he wanted to do was to write. He had fitted up a +room on the top floor at Heriot Row as a study and spent hours there +covering paper with stories or trying to describe in the very best way +scenes which had impressed him. Most of these were discarded when +finished. "I liked doing them indeed," he said, "but when done I could +see they were rubbish." He never doubted, however, that some day his +attempts would prove worth while, if he could only devote his time to +learning to write and write well. + +His father, he knew, had different plans for him, however. Of course, +Louis would follow in his footsteps and be the sixth Stevenson to hold a +place on the Board of Northern Lights. So, although he had little heart +in the work, he entered the University of Edinburgh and spent the next +three and a half years studying for a science degree. + +The summer of 1868 he was sent with an engineering party to Anstruther, +on the coast, where a breakwater was being built. There he had his first +opportunity of seeing some of the practical side of engineering. It was +rough work, but he enjoyed it. Later he spent three weeks on Earraid +Island, off Mull, a place which left a strong impression on his mind and +figured afterward as the spot where David Balfour was shipwrecked. + +Among the experiences at that time which pleased him most was a chance +to descend in a diver's dress to the foundation of the harbor they were +building. In his essays, "Random Memories," he tells of the "dizzy +muddleheaded joy" he had in his surroundings, swaying like a reed, and +grabbing at the fish which darted past him. + +In writing afterward of these years he says: "What I gleaned I am sure I +do not know, but indeed I had already my own private determination to be +an author ... though I haunted the breakwater by day, and even loved the +place for the sake of the sunshine, the thrilling sea-side air, the wash +of the waves on the sea face, the green glimmer of the diver's helmets +far below.... My own genuine occupation lay elsewhere and my only +industry was in the hours when I was not on duty. I lodged with a +certain Bailie Brown, a carpenter by trade, and there as soon as dinner +was despatched ... drew my chair to the table and proceeded to pour +forth literature. + +"I wish to speak with sympathy of my education as an engineer. It takes +a man into the open air; keeps him hanging about harbor sides, the +richest form of idling; it carries him to wild islands; it gives him a +taste of the genial danger of the sea ... and when it has done so it +carries him back and shuts him in an office. From the roaring skerry and +the wet thwart of the tossing boat, he passes to the stool and desk, and +with a memory full of ships and seas and perilous headlands and shining +pharos, he must apply his long-sighted eyes to the pretty niceties of +drawing or measure his inaccurate mind with several pages of consecutive +figures." + +"The roaring skerry and the tossing boat," appealed to him as they had +to his grandfather before him, but they did not balance his dislike for +the "office and the stool" or make him willing to devote his time and +energy to working for them, so his university record was very poor. "No +one ever played the truant with more deliberate care," he says, "and no +one ever had more certificates (of attendance) for less education." + +One thing that he gained from his days at the university was the +friendship of Professor Fleeming Jenkin. He was fifteen years older than +Louis, but they had many common interests and the professor had much +good influence over him. He was one of the first to see promise in his +writing and encouraged him to go on with it. + +Both the professor and Mrs. Jenkin were much interested in dramatics and +each year brought a group of friends together at their house for private +theatricals. Stevenson was a constant visitor at their home, joining +heartily in these plays and looking forward to them, although he never +took any very important part. + +After Professor Jenkin's death Stevenson wrote his biography, and says +it was a "mingled pain and pleasure to dig into the past of a dead +friend, and find him, at every spadeful, shine brighter." + +About this time Thomas Stevenson bought Swanston Cottage in the Pentland +Hills, about five miles from Edinburgh, and for the next fourteen years +the family spent their summers there, and Louis often went out in +winter as well. It ever remained one of his favorite spots and with +Colinton stood out as a place that meant much in his life. + +[Illustration: Swanston Cottage] + +These years saw great change in him; from a frank and happy child he had +grown into a lonely, moody boy making few friends and shunning the +social life that his father's position in Edinburgh offered him. He +describes himself as a "lean, ugly, unpopular student," but those who +knew him never applied the term "ugly" to him at any time. + +At Swanston he explored the hills alone and grew to know them so well +that the Pentland country ever remained vividly in his memory and found +its way into many of his stories, notably "St. Ives," where he describes +Swanston as it was when they first made it their summer home. + +Many solitary winter evenings he spent there rereading his favorite +novels, particularly Dumas's "Vicomte de Bragelonne," which always +pleased him. "Shakespeare has served me best," he said. "Few living +friends have had upon me an influence so strong for good as Hamlet or +Rosalind. Perhaps my dearest and best friend outside of Shakespeare is +D'Artagnan, the elderly D'Artagnan of the 'Vicomte de Bragelonne.' + +"I would return in the early night from one of my patrols with the +shepherd, a friendly face would meet me in the door, a friendly +retriever scurry up stairs to fetch my slippers, and I would sit down +with the Vicomte for a long, silent, solitary lamp-lit evening by the +fire." + +At Swanston he first began to really write, "bad poetry," he says, and +during his solitary rambles fought with certain problems that perplexed +him. + +Here he made the acquaintance of the Scotch gardener, Robert Young, and +John Todd, the "Roaring Shepherd, the oldest herd on the Pentlands," +whom he accompanied on his rounds with the sheep, listening to his tales +told in broad Scotch of the highland shepherds in the old days when "he +himself often marched flocks into England, sleeping on the hillsides +with his caravan; and by his account it was rough business not without +danger. The drove roads lay apart from habitation; the drivers met in +the wilderness, as to-day the deep sea fishers meet off the banks in the +solitude of the Atlantic." + +All this time Louis was idling through the university, knowing that in +the end he would make nothing of himself as an engineer and dreading to +confess it to his father. At length, however, his failure in his studies +came to Thomas Stevenson's attention, and, on being questioned about it +"one dreadful day" as they were walking together, the boy frankly +admitted that his heart was not with the work and he cared for nothing +but to be able to write. + +While at school his father had encouraged him to follow his own bent in +his studies and reading, but when it came to the point of choosing his +life-work, there ought to be no question of doubt. The only natural +thing for Louis to do was to carry on the great and splendid work that +he himself had helped to build up. That the boy should have other plans +of his own surprised and troubled him. Literature, he said, was no +profession, and thus far Louis had not done enough to prove he had a +claim for making it his career. + +After much debate it was finally decided that he should give up +engineering, but should enter the law school and study to be admitted to +the bar. This would not only give him an established profession, but +leave him a little time to write as well. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +EDINBURGH DAYS + + "I am fevered with the sunset, + I am fretful with the bay, + For the wander-thirst is on me + And my soul is in Cathay. + + "There's a schooner in the offing, + With her topsails shot with fire, + And my heart has gone aboard her + For the island of Desire." + + --RICHARD HOVEY. + + +In spite of the fact that his law studies now left him an opportunity +for the work he wanted so much to do, Louis was far from happy, for +between his parents and himself, who had always been the best of +friends, there were many misunderstandings. + +Thomas Stevenson was bitterly disappointed that his only son should +choose to be what he called "an idler"--generous to a fault and always +out of money, dressing in a careless and eccentric way, which both +amused and annoyed his friends and caused him to be ridiculed by +strangers, preferring to roam the streets of old Edinburgh scraping +acquaintance with the fishwives and dock hands, rather than staying at +home and mingling in the social circle to which his parents belonged. +But his father was still more troubled by certain independent religious +opinions, far different from those in which he had been reared, that +Louis adopted at this time. + +How any good result could come from all this neither his father nor +mother could see, and with the loss of their sympathy he was thrown upon +himself and was lonely and rebellious. + +He longed to get away from it all, to quit Edinburgh with its harsh +climate, and often on his walks he leaned over the great bridge that +joins the New Town with the Old "and watched the trains smoking out from +under, and vanishing into the tunnel on a voyage to brighter skies." He +longed to go with them "to that Somewhere-else of the imagination where +all troubles are supposed to end." + +It was a comfort to him at this time to remember other Scotchmen, +Jeffries, Burns, Fergusson, Scott, Carlyle, and others, who had roamed +these same streets before him, not a few of them fighting with the same +problems he faced in their struggle to win their ideal. + +This unhappy time, this "Greensickness," as he called it, came to an +end, however, through the help of what Louis had always secretly longed +for--friends. Several whom he met at this time influenced him, but first +of them all he put his cousin Robert Alan Mowbray Stevenson (Bob), who +returned to Edinburgh about this time from Paris, where he had been +studying art. + +Louis says: "The mere return of Bob changed at once and forever the +course of my life; I can give you an idea of my relief only by saying +that I was at last able to breathe.... I was done with the sullens for +good.... I had got a friend to laugh with." + +Here at last was a companion who understood him and sympathized with +what he was trying to do. Since as children they had made believe +together in their rival kingdoms of "Nosingtonia" and "Encyclopædia" +they had had many traits and tastes in common. They now began where they +had left off and proceeded to enjoy themselves once more by all sorts of +wild pranks and gay expeditions. + +The Speculative Society became another great source of pleasure. It was +an old society and had numbered among its members such men of note as +Scott, Jeffrey, Robert Emmet, and others. Once a week from November to +March the "Spec," as it was called, met in rooms in the University of +Edinburgh. An essay was read and debates followed with much hot +discussion, which delighted Stevenson. "Oh, I do think the Spec is about +the best thing in Edinburgh," he said enthusiastically. + +Sir Walter Simpson, son of the famous doctor, Sir James Simpson, who +discovered chloroform, became another chum about this time, and for the +next ten years they were much together. He likewise was studying law and +was a near neighbor. The Simpsons kept open house, and it was the custom +for a group of cronies to drop in at all hours of day and night. Louis +was among those who came oftenest, and Sir Walter's sister writes: "He +would frequently drop in to dinner with us, and of an evening he had the +run of the smoking room. After ten p.m. the 'open sesame' to our door +was a rattle on the letter box and Louis' fancy for the mysterious was +whetted by this admittance by secret sign, and we liked his special +rat-a-tat for it was the forerunner of an hour or two of talk." + +They teased him about his queer clothes and laughed at some of his wild +ideas, but he seldom was angry at them for it and never stayed away very +long. + +With them he often skated on Duddington Loch or canoed on the Firth of +Forth. One summer he and Sir Walter yachted off the west coast of +Scotland, and still another year, when longing for further wandering +possessed them, they made a trip in canoes through the inland waters of +Belgium from Antwerp to Brussels, and then into France and by the rivers +Sambre and Oise nearly to Paris. + +In the "Inland Voyage," where Stevenson describes this trip, he calls +Sir Walter and his canoe "Cigarette" while he was "Arethusa." Adventures +were plentiful, and they aroused much curiosity among the dwellers on +the banks, with whom they made friends as they went along. + +Once Arethusa was all but drowned, when his canoe was overturned by the +rapids; and on several occasions, when they applied for a night's +lodging, they were suspected of being tramps or peddlers because of +their bedraggled appearance. + +One evening after a hard day's paddling in the rain they landed tired, +wet, and hungry at the little town of La Fère. "The Cigarette and I +could not sufficiently congratulate each other on the prospect," says +the Arethusa, "for we had been told there was a capital inn at La Fère. +Such a dinner as we were going to eat. Such beds as we were going to +sleep in, and all the while the rain raining on homeless folk over all +the poplared country-side. It made our mouths water. The inn bore the +name of some woodland animal, stag, or hart, or hind, I forget which. +But I shall never forget how spacious and how eminently comfortable it +looked as we drew near.... A rattle of many dishes came to our ears; we +sighted a great field of tablecloth; the kitchen glowed like a forge and +smelt like a garden of things to eat. + +"Into this ... you are now to suppose us making our triumphal entry, a +pair of damp rag-and-bone men, each with a limp india-rubber bag upon +his arm. I do not believe I have a sound view of that kitchen; I saw it +through a sort of glory, but it seemed to me crowded with the snowy caps +of cook-men, who all turned round from their saucepans and looked at us +with surprise. There was no doubt about the landlady however; there she +was, heading her army, a flushed, angry woman, full of affairs. Her I +asked politely--too politely, thinks the Cigarette--if we could have +beds, she surveying us coldly from head to foot. + +"'You will find beds in the suburb,' she remarked. 'We are too busy for +the like of you.' + +"If we could make an entrance, change our clothes, and order a bottle of +wine I felt sure we could put things right, so I said, 'If we can not +sleep, we may at least dine,' and was for depositing my bag. + +"What a terrible convulsion of nature was that which followed in the +landlady's face! She made a run at us and stamped her foot. + +"'Out with you--out of the door!' she screeched. + +"I do not know how it happened, but the next moment we were out in the +rain and darkness. This was not the first time that I have been refused +a lodging. Often and often I have planned what I would do if such a +misadventure happened to me again, and nothing is easier to plan. But to +put in execution, with a heart boiling at the indignity? Try it, try it +only once, and tell me what you did." + +Frequently on this trip the Arethusa's odd dress and foreign looks led +him to be taken for a spy. It was not long after the Franco-Prussian +war, and all sorts of rumors of suspicious characters were afloat. Once +he was actually arrested and thrown into a dungeon because he could show +no passport, and the commissary refused to believe he was English and +puzzled his head over the scraps of notes and verses found in his +knapsack. + +He was rescued by the faithful Cigarette, who finally convinced the +officials that they were British gentlemen travelling in this odd way +for pleasure, and the things in his friend's bag were not plans against +the government, but merely scraps of poetry and notes on their travels +that he liked to amuse himself by making as they went along. [Footnote: +This incident is told in the "Epilogue to An Inland Voyage."] + +The canoe trips ended in a visit to the artists' colony at +Fontainebleau, where Bob Stevenson and a brother of Sir Walter's were +spending their summer. This place always had a particular attraction for +Louis and he spent many weeks both there and at Grez near by during the +next few years. + +The free and easy life led by the artists suited him exactly, although +he found it hard to accomplish any work of his own, but dreamed and +planned all sorts of essays, verses, and tales which he never wrote, +while the others put their pictures on canvas. + +"I kept always two books in my pocket," he says, "one to read and one to +write in. As I walked my mind was busy fitting what I saw with +appropriate words; when I sat by the roadside I would either read, or a +pencil and penny version-book would be in my hand, to note down the +features of the scene or commemorate some halting stanzas. Thus I lived +with words." + +If there was little work, to show after a stop at Fontainebleau he had +many memories of good-fellowship and some of the friends he met there +were to be the first to greet him when he came to live on this side of +the water. + +While on their "Inland Voyage" the two canoemen had decided that the +most perfect mode of travel was by canal-boat. What could be more +delightful? "The chimney smokes for dinner as you go along; the banks of +the canal slowly unroll their scenery to contemplative eyes; the barge +floats by great forests and through great cities with their public +buildings and their lamps at night; and for the bargee, in his floating +home, 'travelling abed,' it is merely as if he were listening to another +man's story or turning the leaves of a picture book in which he had no +concern. He may take his afternoon walk in some foreign country on the +banks of the canal, and then come home to dinner at his own fireside." + +They grew most enthusiastic over the idea and told one another how they +would furnish their "water villa" with easy chairs, pipes, and tobacco, +and the bird and the dog should go along too. + +By the time Fontainebleau was reached they had planned trips through all +the canals of Europe. The idea took the artists' fancy also, and a group +of them actually purchased a canal-boat called _The Eleven Thousand +Virgins of Cologne_. Furnishing a water villa, however, was more +expensive than they had foreseen, and she came to a sad end. "'The +Eleven Thousand Virgins of Cologne' rotted in the stream where she was +beautified ... she was never harnessed to the patient track-horse. And +when at length she was sold, by the indignant carpenter of Moret, there +was sold along with her the _Arethusa_ and the _Cigarette_ ... now these +historic vessels fly the tricolor and are known by new and alien names." + +In 1873 Stevenson planned to try for admission to the English bar +instead of the Scottish and went to London to take the examination. But +his health, which had been rather poor, became worse, and on reaching +London the doctor ordered him to Mentone in the south of France, where +he had been before as a boy. + +There he spent his days principally lying on his back in the sun reading +and playing with a little Russian girl with whom he struck up a great +friendship. His letters to his mother were full of her sayings and +doings. He was too ill to write much, although one essay, "Ordered +South," was the outcome of this trip, the only piece of writing in which +he ever posed as an invalid or talked of his ill health. + +At the end of two months he improved enough to return to Edinburgh, but +gave up the idea of the English bar. His illness and absence seemed to +have smoothed out some of the difficulties at home, and after he +returned things went happier in every way. + +On July 14, 1875, he passed his final law examinations, and was admitted +to the Scottish bar. He was now entitled to wear a wig and gown, place +a brass plate with his name upon the door of 17 Heriot Row, and "have +the fourth or fifth share of the services of a clerk" whom it is said he +didn't even know by sight. For a few months he made some sort of a +pretense at practising, but it amounted to very little. Gradually he +ceased paying daily visits to the Parliament House to wait for a case, +but settled himself instead in the room on the top floor at home and +began to write, seriously this time--it was to be his life-work from now +on--and the law was forgotten. + +His first essays were published in the _Cornhill Magazine_ and _The +Portfolio_ under the initials R.L.S., which signature in time grew so +familiar to his friends and to those who admired his writings it became +a second name for him, and as R.L.S. he is often referred to. + +He was free now to roam as he chose and spent much time in Paris with +Bob. The life there in the artists' quarter suited him as well as it +had at Fontainebleau. There, among other American artists, he was +associated with Mr. Will Low, a painter, whom he saw much of when he +came to New York. + +One September he took a walking trip in the Cévenne Mountains with no +other companion than a little gray donkey, Modestine, who carried his +pack and tried his patience by turns with her pace, which was "as much +slower than a walk as a walk is slower than a run," as he tells in the +chronicle of the trip. + +A visit at Grez in 1876 was to mark a point in his life. Heretofore the +artists' colony had been composed only of men. This year there were +three new arrivals, Americans, a Mrs. Osbourne and her young son and +daughter. Their home in California had been broken up and the mother had +come to Grez to paint for the summer. + +Those who had been there for a number of years, R.L.S. among them, +looked on the newcomers as intruders and did not hesitate to say so +among themselves. Before the summer was over, however, they were +obliged to confess that the newcomers had added to the charms of Grez, +and Louis found in Mrs. Osbourne another companion to add to his rapidly +growing list. + +When the artists scattered in the autumn and he returned to Edinburgh +and Mrs. Osbourne to California, he carried with him the hope that some +time in the future they should be married. + +For the next three years he worked hard. He published numerous essays in +the _Cornhill Magazine_ and his first short stories, "A Lodging for the +Night," "Will O' the Mill," and the "New Arabian Nights." These were +followed by his first books of travel, "An Inland Voyage," giving a +faithful account of the adventures of the _Arethusa_ and the +_Cigarette_, and "Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes." + +When the latter was published, Mr. Walter Crane made an illustration for +it showing R.L.S. under a tree in the foreground in his sleeping-bag, +smoking, while Modestine contentedly crops grass by his side. Above him +winds the path he is to take on his journey, encouraging Modestine with +her burden to a livelier pace with his goad; receiving the blessing of +the good monks at the Monastery of Our Lady of the Snows; stopping for a +bite and sup at a wayside tavern; conversing with a fellow traveller by +the way; and finally disappearing with the sunset over the brow of the +hill. + +Some time previous to all this he had written in a letter: "Leslie +Stephen, who was down here to lecture, called on me, and took me up to +see a poor fellow, a poet who writes for him, and who has been eighteen +months in our Infirmary, and may be for all I know eighteen months more. +Stephen and I sat on a couple of chairs, and the poor fellow sat up in +his bed with his hair and beard all tangled, and talked as cheerfully as +if he had been in a king's palace of blue air." + +This was William Ernest Henley, and his brave determination to live and +work, though he knew he must ever remain in a maimed condition, roused +Stevenson's sincere admiration. With his usual impetuous generosity, he +brought him books and other comforts to make his prolonged stay in the +infirmary less wearisome and a warm friendship sprang up between them. + +As Henley grew stronger they planned to work together and write plays. +Stevenson had done nothing of the kind since he was nineteen. Now they +chose to use the same plot that he had experimented with at that time. +It was the story of the notorious Deacon Brodie of Edinburgh, which both +considered contained good material for a play. + +"A great man in his day was the Deacon; well seen in good society, +crafty with his hands as a cabinet-maker, and one who could sing a song +with taste. Many a citizen was proud to welcome the Deacon to supper, +and dismiss him with regret ... who would have been vastly disconcerted +had he known how soon, and in what guise his visitor returned. Many +stories are told of this redoubtable Edinburgh burgher.... A friend of +Brodie's ... told him of a projected visit to the country, and +afterwards detained by some affairs, put it off and stayed the night in +town. The good man had lain some time awake; it was far on in the small +hours by the Tron bell; when suddenly there came a crack, a jar, a faint +light. Softly he clambered out of bed and up to a false window which +looked upon another room, and there, by the glimmer of a thieves' +lantern, was his good friend the Deacon in a mask." + +At length after a certain robbery in one of the government offices the +Deacon was suspected. He escaped to Holland, but was arrested in +Amsterdam as he was about to start for America. He was brought back to +Edinburgh, was tried and convicted and hanged on the second of October, +1788, at the west end of the Tolbooth, which was the famous old +Edinburgh prison known as the Heart of Midlothian. + +[Illustration: Edinburgh Castle] + +This story of Brodie had always interested Stevenson since he had heard +it as a child, and a cabinet made by the clever Deacon himself formed +part of the furniture of his nursery. + +"Deacon Brodie" and other plays were finished and produced, but never +proved successful. Indeed, the money came in but slowly from any of his +writings and, aside from the critics, it was many a long day before he +was appreciated by the people of his own city and country. They refused +to believe that "that daft laddie Stevenson," who had so often shocked +them by his eccentric ways and scorn of conventions, could do anything +worth while. So by far his happiest times were spent out of Scotland, +principally in London, where a membership in the Savile Club added to +his enjoyment. Here he met several interesting men, among them Edmund +William Gosse and Sidney Colvin, both writers and literary critics, with +whom he became very intimate. + +"My experience of Stevenson," writes Mr. Gosse, "during these first +years was confined to London upon which he would make sudden piratical +descents, staying a few days or weeks and melting into thin air again. +He was much at my house, and it must be told that my wife and I, as +young married people, had possessed ourselves of a house too large for +our slender means immediately to furnish. The one person who thoroughly +approved of our great bare absurd drawing room was Louis, who very +earnestly dealt with us on the immorality of chairs and tables, and +desired us to sit always, as he delighted to sit, upon hassocks on the +floor. Nevertheless, as armchairs and settees straggled into existence, +he handsomely consented to use them, although never in the usual way, +but with his legs thrown sidewise over the arms of them, or the head of +a sofa treated as a perch. In particular, a certain shelf with cupboards +below, attached to a bookcase, is worn with the person of Stevenson, who +would spend half an evening, while passionately discussing some question +... leaping sidewise in a seated posture to the length of this shelf and +back again. + +"... These were the days when he most frequented the Savile Club, and +the lightest and most vivacious part of him there came to the surface. +He might spend the morning in work or business, and would then come to +the club for luncheon. If he were so fortunate as to find a congenial +companion disengaged, or to induce them to throw over their engagements, +he would lead him off to the smoking-room, and there spend an afternoon +in the highest spirits and the most brilliant and audacious talk. + +"He was simply bubbling with quips and jests. I am anxious that his +laughter-loving mood should not be forgotten, because later on it was +partly, but I think never wholly quenched, by ill health, responsibility +and advance of years. + +"His private thoughts and prospects must often have been of the +gloomiest, but he seems to have borne his unhappiness with a courage as +high as he ever afterwards displayed." + +Sidney Colvin he met some time previous while visiting relatives in +England, and their friendship was renewed when they met again in +London; a friendship which lasted throughout their lives and which even +the distance of two seas failed to obliterate. They kept up a lively +correspondence and Mr. Colvin aided him with the publication of his +writings while he was absent from his own country. After his death, +according to Stevenson's wishes, Mr. Colvin edited a large collection of +his letters and in the notes which he added paid his friend many +splendid tributes which show him to be a fair critic as well as an +ardent admirer. "He had only to speak," he says, "in order to be +recognized in the first minute for a witty and charming gentleman, and +within the first five minutes for a master spirit and man of genius." + +Louis's long absences from home often troubled his mother and caused her +to complain when writing. In one answer to her about this time he said: + +"You must not be vexed at my absences, you must understand I shall be a +nomad, more or less, until my days be done. You don't know how much I +used to long for it in the old days; how I used to go and look at the +trains leaving, and wish to go with them. And now, you know, that I have +a little more that is solid under my feet, you must take my nomadic +habit as a part of me. Just wait till I am in swing and you will see +that I shall pass more of my life with you than elsewhere; only take me +as I am and give me time. I _must_ be a bit of a vagabond." + +For all so little of his writing was ever done in his own country, +nevertheless he turned to Scotland again and again for the setting of +his stories and the subject of his essays. Although he often spoke +harshly of Edinburgh when at home, he paid her many loving tributes in +writing of her in a foreign land: "The quaint grey-castled city where +the bells clash of a Sunday, and the wind squalls, and the salt showers +fly and beat.... I do not even know if I desire to live there, but let +me hear in some far land a kindred voice sing out 'Oh, why left I my +hame?' and it seems at once as if no beauty under the kind heavens, and +no society of the wise and good, can repay me for my absence from my own +country. And although I think I would rather die elsewhere, yet in my +heart of hearts I long to be buried among good Scotch clods. I will say +it fairly, it grows on me with every year; there are no stars so lovely +as the Edinburgh street lamps. When I forget thee, Auld Reekie, may my +right hand forget its cunning." + + + + +CHAPTER V + +AMATEUR EMIGRANT + + "Hope went before them + And the world was wide." + + +In the summer of 1879 R.L.S. was once more seized with the desire to +roam and to roam farther than ever before. California had been beckoning +to him for some time, and in August he suddenly made up his mind, and +with scarcely a word of farewell to his family and friends he embarked +on the steamship _Devonia_, bound for New York. + +Partly for the sake of economy, for he determined to pay his own way on +this venture, and partly because he was anxious to experience emigrant +life, he engaged passage in the second cabin, which in those days +differed very little from the steerage. The main advantages were a +trifle better food and a cabin to himself with a table where he could +write. + +In his usual way he soon made acquaintance with his fellow passengers +and did them many a friendly turn. They took him for one of themselves +and showed little curiosity as to where he came from, who he was, or +where he was going. He says: "The sailors called me 'mate,' the officers +addressed me as 'my man,' my comrades accepted me without hesitation for +a person of their own character and experience. One, a mason himself, +believed I was a mason, several, among these at least one of the seamen, +judged me to be a petty officer in the American navy; and I was so often +set down for a practical engineer that at last I had not the heart to +deny it." + +The emigrants were from many countries, though the majority were Scotch +and Irish bound for the new world with the hope of meeting with better +fortune than they had had in the old, and they whiled away the days at +sea in their several ways, making the best of their discomforts and +cheering one another when they grew lonely or homesick for those they +had left behind. + +When the weather was good their spirits rose and there were many rounds +of singing and story-telling as they sat clustered together like bees +under the lee of the deck-house, and in all of these Stevenson joined +heartily. + +"We were indeed a musical ship's company," he says, "and cheered our way +into exile with the fiddle, the accordion, and the songs of all nations, +good, bad or indifferent--Scottish, English, Irish, Russian or +Norse--the songs were received with generous applause. Once or twice, a +recitation, very spiritedly rendered in a powerful Scotch accent, varied +the proceedings; and once we sought in vain to dance a quadrille, eight +men of us together, to the music of the violin. The performers were +humorous, frisky fellows, who loved to cut capers in private life; but +as soon as they were arranged for the dance, they conducted themselves +like so many mutes at a funeral. I have never seen decorum pushed so +far; and as this was not expected, the quadrille was soon whistled off, +and the dancers departed. + +"But the impulse to sing was strong, and triumphed over modesty and even +the inclemencies of the sea and sky. On one rough Saturday night, we got +together by the main deck-house, in a place sheltered from the wind and +rain. Some clinging to the ladder which led to the hurricane-deck and +the rest knitting arms or taking hands, we made a ring to support the +women in the violent lurching of the ship, and when we were thus +disposed, sang to our hearts' content. + +"There was a single chess-board and a single pack of cards. Sometimes as +many as twenty of us would be playing dominoes for love. There were +feats of dexterity, puzzles for the intelligence and a regular daily +competition to guess the vessel's progress; at twelve o'clock when the +result was published in the wheel house, came to be a moment of +considerable interest.... We had beside, romps in plenty. Puss in the +Corner, which we rebaptized, in more manly style, Devil and Four +Corners, was my favorite game; but there were many who preferred +another, the humor of which was to box a person's ears until he found +out who cuffed him." + +The voyage, which lasted ten days, was uneventful except for some rough +weather when Stevenson found his cabin most stuffy and uncomfortable. He +was not really ill, however, and spent much of the time finishing a tale +called "The Story of a Lie," while his table played "Bob Jerry with the +ink bottle." On his arrival in New York the story was sent back to +London with the following letter to Sidney Colvin: + + +"On Board S.S. Devonia an hour or two out of New York, Aug., 1879. + +"MY DEAR COLVIN: + +"I have finished my story. The handwriting is not good because of the +ship's misconduct; thirty-one pages in ten days at sea is not bad. I am +not very well; bad food, bad air and hard work have brought me down. +But the spirits keep good. The voyage has been most interesting and will +make, if not a series of Pall Mall articles, at least the first part of +a new book. The last weight on me has been trying to keep notes for this +purpose. Indeed I have worked like a horse and am tired as a donkey. If +I should have to push on far by rail, I shall bring nothing but my fine +bones to port. + +"Goodbye to you all. I suppose it is now late afternoon with you all +across the seas. What shall I find over here? I dare not wonder.--Ever +yours R.L.S." + + +As California was the goal he aimed for, in spite of his fatigue after +ten days of poor living and the sea, he determined to push on +immediately in an emigrant train bound for the Pacific coast. + +On reaching port he and a man named Jones, with whom he had had more in +common than with any of his other fellow passengers, landed together. + +"Jones and I issued into West Street, sitting on some straw in the +bottom of an open baggage wagon. It rained miraculously, and from that +moment till on the following night I left New York, there was scarce a +lull, and no cessation of the downpour.... + +"It took but a few moments, though it cost a good deal of money, to be +rattled along West Street to our destination: Reunion House, No. 10 West +Street, 'kept by one Mitchell.' + +"Here I was at last in America and was soon out upon the New York +streets, spying for things foreign.... + +"The following day I had a thousand and one things to do; only the day +to do them in and a journey across the continent before me in the +evening.... It rained with potent fury; every now and then I had to get +under cover for a while in order, so to speak, to give my mackintosh a +rest; for under this continued drenching it began to grow damp on the +inside. I went to banks, post-offices, railway offices, restaurants, +publishers, book sellers and money changers. + +"I was so wet when I got back to Mitchell's toward evening, that I had +simply to divest myself of my shoes, socks and trousers, and leave them +behind for the benefit of New York City. No fire could have dried them +ere I had to start; and to pack them in their present condition was to +spread ruin among my other possessions. With a heavy heart I said +farewell to them as they lay a pulp in the middle of a pool upon the +floor of Mitchell's kitchen. I wonder if they are dry by now." + +That night he joined a party of emigrants bound for the West, the weight +of his baggage much increased by the result of his day's +purchases--Bancroft's "History of the United States" in six fat volumes. +So in less than twenty-four hours after landing on one coast he was on +his way to the other. + +If at times he had been uncomfortable on the steamer he was ten times +more so on the train. It is hard to realize in these days of easy +travelling what the discomforts of riding in the emigrant trains were; +crowded together in badly lighted, badly ventilated cars, with stiff +wooden benches on either side, which were most uncomfortable to sit on +and next to impossible to lie down upon. Meals were taken as best they +might when they stopped at way stations while some bought milk and eggs +and made a shift to cook themselves a meal or brew a cup of tea on the +stove at the end of the car. + +Over a week of this sort of slow travelling through the heat of the +plains was enough to tax the strength and courage of the most robust +man, let alone one in as delicate health as Stevenson at that time, and +it is a wonder he ever lived through it. Indeed, he was ill but kept +cheerful in spite of all, and was interested in the country and the +sights along the way. His own discomforts seemed to dwindle when he +contrasted them with those the pioneers endured travelling that same +direction twenty years before; crawling along in ox-carts with their +cattle and family possessions; suffering hunger, thirst, and infinite +weariness, and living in daily terror of attack from the Indians. + +He made note of all he saw and the doings of his fellow emigrants, to be +used later on. Letters to Henley and Colvin en route are interesting. + + +"In the Emigrant Train from New York to San Francisco, Aug., 1879. + +DEAR COLVIN,--I am in the cars between Pittsburg and Chicago, just now +bowling through Ohio. I am taking charge of a kid, whose mother is +asleep, with one eye while I write you this with the other. I reached +N.Y. Sunday night, and by five o'clock Monday was underway for the +West.--It is now about ten on Wednesday morning, so I have already been +forty hours in the cars. It is impossible to lie down in them, which +must end by being very wearying.... + +"No man is any use until he has dared everything; I feel just now as if +I had, and so might become a man. 'If ye have faith like a grain of +mustard seed.' That is so true! Just now I have faith as big as a cigar +case, I will not say die, and I do not fear man nor fortune.--R.L.S." + + +"Crossing Nebraska, Saturday, Aug. 23, 1879. + +"My Dear Henley,--I am sitting on the top of the cars with a mill party +from Missouri going west for his health. Desolate flat prairie upon all +hands.... When we stop, which we do often, for emigrants and freight +travel together, the kine first, the man after, the whole plain is heard +singing with cicadae. This is a pause, as you may see from the writing. +What happened to the old pedestrian emigrants; what was the tedium +suffered by the Indians and trappers of our youth, the imagination +trembles to conceive. This is now Saturday, 23rd, and I have been +steadily travelling since I parted from you at St. Pancras. It is a +strange vicissitude from the Savile Club to this; I sleep with a man +from Pennsylvania who has been in the Navy Yard, and mess with him and +the Missouri bird already alluded to. We have a tin wash-bowl among +four, I wear nothing but a shirt and a pair of trousers and never button +my shirt. When I land for a meal, I pass my coat and feel dressed. This +life is to last until Friday, Saturday or Sunday next. It is a strange +affair to be an emigrant, as I hope you shall see in a future work. I +wonder if this will be legible; my present station on the wagon roof, +though airy, compared to the cars, is both dirty and insecure. I can see +the track straight before and straight behind me to either horizon.... + +"Our journey is through ghostly deserts, sage brush and alkali, and +rocks without form or color, a sad corner of the world. I confess I am +not jolly, but mighty calm, in my distresses. My illness is a subject of +great mirth to some of my fellow travellers, and I smile rather sickly +at their jests. + +"We are going along Bitter Creek just now, a place infamous in the +history of emigration, a place I shall remember myself among the +blackest.--R.L.S." + + +When California was finally reached he decided to rest and recover +strength by camping out for a few days in the Coast Range Mountains +beyond Monterey, but the anxiety and strain of the long journey had been +greater than he realized, and he broke down and became very ill. For two +nights he lay out under the trees in a kind of stupor and at length was +rescued by two frontiersmen in charge of a goat-ranch, who took him to +their cabin and cared for him until he partly recovered. + +"Here is another curious start in my life," he wrote to Sidney Colvin. +"I am living at an Angora goat-ranch, in the Coast Line Mountains, +eighteen miles from Monterey. I was camping out, but got so sick that +the two rancheros took me in and tended me. One is an old bear hunter, +seventy-two years old, and a captain from the Mexican War; the other a +pilgrim, and one who was out with the bear flag and under Fremont when +California was taken by the States. They are both true frontiersmen, and +most kind and pleasant. Captain Smith, the bear hunter, is my physician, +and I obey him like an oracle.... + +"I am now lying in an upper chamber, with the clinking of goat bells in +my ears, which proves to me that the goats are come home and it will +soon be time to eat. The old bear hunter is doubtless now infusing tea; +and Tom the Indian will come in with his gun in a few moments.... + +"The business of my life stands pretty nigh still. I work at my notes of +the voyage. It will not be very like a book of mine; but perhaps none +the less successful for that. I will not deny that I feel lonely +to-day.... I have not yet had a word from England, partly, I suppose, +because I have not yet written for my letters to New York; do not blame +me for this neglect, if you knew all I have been through, you would +wonder I had done as much as I have. I teach the ranch children reading +in the morning, for the mother is from home sick. + +"Ever your affectionate friend. + +"R.L.S." + + +As soon as Stevenson was well enough he returned to Monterey and fell to +working upon several short stories and the notes of his voyage, which he +brought together and published later under the titles "The Amateur +Emigrant" and "Across the Plains." + +Monterey in those days was a small Mexican town; "a place of two or +three streets economically paved with sea-sand, and two or three lanes, +which were the water courses in the rainy season.... The houses were, +for the most part, built of unbaked adobe brick.... + +"There was no activity but in and around the saloons, where the people +sat almost all day playing cards. The smallest excursion was made on +horseback. You would scarcely ever see the main street without a horse +or two tied to posts, and making a fine figure with their Mexican +housings. In a place so exclusively Mexican as Monterey, you saw not +only Mexican saddles, but true Vaquero riding--men always at a hand +gallop, up hill and down dale, and round the sharpest corners, urging +their horses with cries and gesticulations and cruel rotary spurs, +checking them dead, with a touch, or wheeling them right about face in a +square yard. Spanish was the language of the street." + +He lodged with a doctor and his wife, and took his meals at the little +restaurant kept by Jules Simoneau, "a most pleasant old boy," with whom +he played chess and discussed the universe daily. + +About the middle of December he pushed on to San Francisco, and prepared +to settle down and work for an indefinite time. Though he had known but +few people in Monterey, nevertheless it was a social little place in +comparison to a great city like San Francisco, where Stevenson found +himself indeed a stranger and friendless and learned for the first time +in his life what it really meant to be lonely. + +Funds were running low; so he secured the cheapest possible lodging and +took his meals at various small restaurants, living at the rate of +seventy cents a day. + +On December 26 he wrote: "For four days I have spoken to no one but my +landlady or landlord or the restaurant waiters. This is not a gay way to +pass Christmas, is it?" But some days later, nothing daunted, he added: +"I lead a pretty happy life, though you might not think it. I have great +fun trying to be economical, which I find as good a game of play as any +other. I have no want of occupation and though I rarely see any one to +speak to, have little time to worry." + +To make matters worse, letters containing money went astray and word +came that some articles submitted to his publishers in England, on which +he had depended for funds, were not satisfactory, and this forced him to +reduce his living expenses to forty-five cents a day. The letters from +home were most unsatisfactory and lacked the kind of news he longed for. +"Not one soul ever gives me any _news_," he complained to Sidney Colvin, +"about people or things, everybody writes me sermons; it is good for me, +but hardly the food necessary for a man who lives all alone on +forty-five cents a day, and sometimes less, with quantities of hard work +and many heavy thoughts. If one of you could write me a letter with a +jest in it, a letter like what is written to real people in the world--I +am still flesh and blood--I should enjoy it. Simpson did the other day, +and it did me as much good as a bottle of wine--man alive I want +gossip." + +Day in and day out he worked doggedly, fighting discouragement, with +little strength or inspiration to write anything very worth while. + +To cap all, his landlady's little boy fell ill, and Stevenson, who had a +great love and sympathy for all children, helped to nurse him, and this +proved too much in the nervous and exhausted state he was in. The boy +recovered, but Stevenson fell ill again, and for six weeks hovered +between life and death. + +This seems to have been the turning-point in his ill luck. Toward the +middle of February, as he slowly began to mend, he was cheered on by +long letters from home, full of anxiety for his health and advances of +money from his father, with strict instructions that from now on he was +no longer to stint and deny himself the bare necessities of life, as he +had been doing. Later, in April, came a telegram from Thomas Stevenson +saying that in future Louis was to count on an income of two hundred and +fifty pounds a year. + +Cheered with the prospect of an easier road ahead of him, he struggled +back to life once more with a strong resolve to work harder and make +those at home proud of him. + +"It was a considerable shock to my pride to break down," he wrote to a +friend, "but there it's done and can not be helped. Had my health held +out another month, I should have made a year's income, but breaking +down when I did, I am surrounded by unfinished works. It is a good thing +my father was on the spot, or I should have had to work and die." + +Early in the spring he and Mrs. Osbourne met again, and on May 19, 1880, +they were married in San Francisco. + +For the rest of his life Stevenson had no cause to complain of +loneliness, for in his wife he had an "inseparable sharer of all his +adventures; the most open-hearted of friends to all those who loved him; +the most shrewd and stimulating critic of his work; and in sickness, +despite her own precarious health, the most devoted and most efficient +of nurses." + +Immediately after their marriage Stevenson and his wife and stepson--and +the dog--went to the Coast Range Mountains and, taking possession of an +old deserted miner's camp, practically lived out-of-doors for the next +few months, with no neighbors aside from a hunter and his family. + +This was healthy, but the life of a squatter has its limitations, and +their trials and tribulations during these weeks Stevenson told most +amusingly in "The Silverado Squatters." + +Gradually a longing began to come to R.L.S. to see those at home once +more and have them know his wife. This desire grew so from day to day +that July found them bidding good-by to California, and on the 7th of +August they sailed from New York for Liverpool. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +SCOTLAND AGAIN + + "Bells upon the city are ringing in the night, + High above the gardens are the houses full of light, + On the heathy Pentlands is the curlew flying free, + And the broom is blowing bonnie in the north countrie. + + "We canna break the bonds that God decreed to bind, + Still we'll be the children of the heather and the wind, + Far away from home O, it's still for you and me + That the broom is blowing bonnie in the north countrie." + + +On his return to Scotland the spell of his own land fell upon R.L.S. for +the first time. He realized now how he loved it spite of its bad +climate, how much there was at home waiting for him. "After all," he +said, "new countries, sun, music, and all the rest, can never take down +our gusty, rainy, smoky, grim old city out of the first place it has +been making for itself in the bottom of my soul." + +But he had returned only to be banished. The doctors found his lungs +too weak to risk Edinburgh winters and advised him to try the Alps. + +Accordingly a cottage was rented in Davos Platz, a health resort. There +and at similar places near by they spent the next few winters with +visits to England and France between. Switzerland never suited +Stevenson. He disliked living among invalids, and with his love for +exploring the nooks and corners of any spot he was in he felt like a +prisoner when he found himself shut in a valley among continual snow +with few walks possible for him to take. "The mountains are about me +like a trap," he complained. "You can not foot it up a hillside and +behold the sea on a great plain, but live in holes and corners and can +change only one for the other." + +Tobogganing was the only sport of Davos Platz he really enjoyed, and he +pursued that to his heart's content. "Perhaps the true way to toboggan +is alone and at night," he said. "First comes the tedious climb +dragging your instrument behind you. Next a long breathing space, alone +with the snow and pine woods, cold, silent and solemn to the heart. Then +you push off; the toboggan fetches away, she begins to feel the hill, to +glide, to swim, to gallop. In a breath you are out from under the +pine-trees and the whole heaven full of stars reels and flashes +overhead." + +He accomplished little work at this time. Sometimes for days he would be +unable to write at all. But the little boy who had once told his mother, +"I have been trying to make myself happy," was the same man now who +could say: "I was never bored in my life." When unable to do anything +else he would build houses of cards or lie in bed and model little +figures in clay. Anything to keep his hands busy and his mind distracted +from the stories that crowded his brain and he had not strength to put +on paper. His one horror, the fear that urged him on to work feverishly +when he was suffering almost beyond endurance, was the thought that his +illness might one day make him a helpless invalid. + +The splendid part to think of is that no hint of his dark days and pains +crept into his writings or saddened those who came to see him. Complaint +he kept to himself, prayed that he might "continue to be eager to be +happy," lived with the best that was in him from day to day, and the +words that went forth from his sick-room have cheered and encouraged +thousands. + +When asked why he wrote so many stories of pirates and adventurers with +few women to soften them he replied: "I suppose it's the contrast; I +have always admired great strength, even in a pirate. Courage has +interested me more than anything else." + +He and his stepson had grown to be great chums. At Silverado Lloyd had +been seized with a desire to write stories and had set up a toy +printing-press which turned off several tales. At Davos Platz they both +tried their hand at illustrating these stories with pictures cut on +wood-blocks and gayly colored. Lloyd's room was quite a gallery of these +artistic attempts. But their favorite diversion was to play at a war +game with lead soldiers. In after-years Lloyd wrote his recollections of +the days they spent together enjoying this fun and he says: "The war +game was constantly improved and elaborated, until from a few hours, a +war took weeks to play, and the critical operations in the attic +monopolized half our thoughts. This attic was a most chilly and dismal +spot, reached by a crazy ladder, and unlit save for a single frosted +window; so low at the eaves and so dark that we could seldom stand +upright, nor see without a candle. Upon the attic floor a map was +roughly drawn in chalks of different colors, with mountains, rivers, +towns, bridges, and roads of two classes. Here we would play by the +hour, with tingling fingers and stiffening knees, and an intentness, +zest, and excitement that I shall never forget. + +"The mimic battalions marched and counter-marched, changed by measured +evolutions from column formation into line, with cavalry screens in +front and massed support behind, in the most approved military fashion +of to-day." + +Neither of them ever grew too old for this sport. Year after year they +went back to the game. Even when they went to Samoa they laid out a +campaign room with maps chalked on the floor. + +In the spring of 1885 Thomas Stevenson purchased a house at Bournemouth, +England, near London, as a present for his daughter-in-law. + +They named the cottage "Skerryvore," after the famous lighthouse he had +helped to build in his young days, and it was their home for the next +three years--busy ones for R.L.S. + +[Illustration: Skerryvore Cottage, Bournemouth] + +It was a real joy to have his father and mother and Bob Stevenson with +them again and his friends in London frequently drop in for a visit. + +His health was never worse than during the Bournemouth days. He seldom +went beyond his own garden-gate but lived, as he says, "like a weevil in +a biscuit." Yet he never worked harder or accomplished more. He wrote in +bed and out of bed, sick or well, poems, plays, short stories, and +verses. + +He finished "Treasure Island," the book that gained him his first +popularity, and wrote "Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde," which made him famous +at home and abroad. + +"Treasure Island" had been started some time previous to please Lloyd, +who asked him to write a "good story." It all began with a map. +Stevenson always loved maps, and one day during a picture-making bout he +had drawn a fine one. "It was elaborately and (I thought) beautifully +colored," he says. "The shape of it took my fancy beyond expression; it +contained harbors that pleased me like sonnets.... I ticketed my +performance Treasure Island." + +Immediately the island began to take life and swarm with people, all +sorts of strange scenes began to take place upon it, and as he gazed at +his map Stevenson discovered the plot for the "good story." + +"It is horrid fun," he wrote, "and begins in the Admiral Benbow public +house on the Devon coast; all about a map and a treasure and a mutiny, +and a derelict ship ... and a doctor and a sea-cook with one leg with +the chorus 'yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum,' ... No women in the story, +Lloyd orders." + +Parts of the coast at Monterey flashed back to his mind and helped him +to picture the scenery of his "Treasure Island." "It was just such a +place as the Monterey sand hills the hero John Hawkins found himself on +leaving his mutinous shipmates. It was just such a thicket of live oak +growing low along the sand like brambles, that he crawled and dodged +when he heard the voices of the pirates near him and saw Long John +Silver strike down with his crutch one of his mates who had refused to +join in his plan for murder." + +[Illustration: The Treasure Island map] + +As the story grew he read each new chapter aloud to the family in the +evening. He was writing it for one boy, but found he had more in his +audience. "My father," he says, "not only heard with delight the daily +chapter, but set himself actively to collaborate. When the time came for +Billy Bones' chest to be ransacked, he must have passed the better part +of a day preparing on the back of a legal envelope an inventory of its +contents, which I exactly followed, and the name of Flint's old ship, +the Walrus, was given at his particular request." + +When the map was redrawn for the book it was embellished with "blowing +whales and sailing ships; and my father himself brought into service a +knack he had of various writing, and elaborately _forged_ the signature +of Captain Flint and the sailing directions of Billy Bones." + +These daily readings were rare treats to those at Skerryvore, for +Stevenson was a most dramatic reader. "When he came to stand in the +place of Silver you could almost have imagined you saw the great +one-legged John Silver, joyous-eyed, on the rolling sea." + +The book was not long in springing into popularity. Not only the boys +enjoyed it but all sorts of staid and sober men became boys once more +and sat up long after bedtime to finish the tale. Mr. Gladstone caught a +glimpse of it at a friend's house and did not rest the next day until he +had procured a copy for himself, and Andrew Lang said: "This is the kind +of stuff a fellow wants. I don't know when, except Tom Sawyer and the +Odyssey, that I ever liked a romance so well." + +It was translated into many different languages, even appearing serially +in certain Greek and Spanish papers. + +"Kidnapped" followed; a story founded on the Appan murder. David +Balfour, the hero, was one of his own ancestors; Alan Breck had actually +lived, and the Alison who ferried Alan and David over to Torryburn was +one of Cummie's own people. The Highland country where the scenes were +laid, he had traversed many times, and the Island of Earraid, where +David was shipwrecked, was the spot where he had spent some of his +engineering days. + +Stevenson had often said the "brownies" in his dreams gave him ideas for +his tales. At Skerryvore they came to him with a story that among all +his others is counted the greatest. + +"In the small hours one morning," says his wife, "I was awakened by +cries of horror from Louis. Thinking he had a nightmare I awakened him. +He said angrily, 'Why did you wake me? I was dreaming a fine bogey +tale.'" + +The dream was so vivid that he could not rest until he had written off +the story, and it so possessed him that the first draft was finished +within three days. It was called "The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. +Hyde." + +This story instantly created much discussion. Articles were written +about it, sermons were preached on it, and letters poured in from all +sorts of people with their theories about the strange tale. Six months +after it was published nearly forty thousand copies were sold in +England alone; but its greatest success was in America where its +popularity was immediate and its sale enormous. + +One day he was attracted by a book of verses about children by Kate +Greenaway, and wondered why he could not write some too of the children +he remembered best of all. Scenes and doings in the days spent at +Colinton with his swarm of cousins; the games they had played and the +people they had known all trooped back with other memories of Edinburgh +days. As he recalled these children, they tripped from his pen until he +had a delightful collection of verses and determined to bring them +together in a book. + +First he called it "The Penny Whistle," but soon changed the title to "A +Child's Garden of Verses" and dedicated it, with the following poem, to +the only one he said who would really understand the verses, the one who +had done so much to make his childhood days happy: + + + TO ALISON CUNNINGHAM + + FROM HER BOY + + "For the long nights you lay awake + And watched for my unworthy sake; + For your most comfortable hand + That led me through the uneven land; + For all the story-books you read; + For all the pains you comforted; + For all you pitied, all you bore + In sad and happy days of yore;-- + My second Mother, my first wife, + The angel of my infant life-- + From the sick child, now well and old, + Take, nurse, the little book you hold! + + "And grant it, Heaven, that all who read, + May find as dear a nurse at need, + And every child who lists my rhyme, + In the bright fireside, nursery clime, + May hear it in as kind a voice + As made my childish days rejoice." + + +"Of course," he said, speaking of this dedication when he wrote to +Cummie about the book, "this is only a flourish, like taking off one's +hat, but still a person who has taken the trouble to write things does +not dedicate them to anyone without meaning it; and you must try to +take this dedication in place of a great many things that I might have +said, and that I ought to have done; to prove that I am not altogether +unconscious of the great debt of gratitude I owe you." + +[Illustration: Facsimile of letter sent to Cummy with "An Inland +Voyage"] + +If Thomas Stevenson had been one of the first to doubt his boy's +literary ability, he was equally quick to acknowledge himself mistaken. +He was proud of his brilliant son, keenly interested in whatever he was +working on and, during the days spent together at Skerryvore, gave him +valuable aid in his writing. + +To have this old-time comradeship with his father, to enjoy his sympathy +and understanding once more was Stevenson's greatest joy at this time; a +joy which he sorrowfully realized he must soon part with forever as his +father's health was failing rapidly. + +Thomas Stevenson remained at Skerryvore until April, 1887, when he left +for a short visit to Edinburgh. While there he became suddenly worse and +died on the 8th of May. + +Louis's greatest reason for remaining in England was gone now, and he +determined to cross the ocean with his family once more. + +His mother willingly gave up her home, her family, her friends, and the +comforts she had always enjoyed to go with him to a new country, on any +venture he might propose if his health could only be improved thereby. + +On August 21, 1887, Louis bade good-by to Scotland for the last time and +sailed away from London on the steamship _Ludgate Hill_ for New York. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +SECOND VISIT TO AMERICA + + "Tis a good land to fall in with men, and a pleasant land to see." + + --(_Words spoken by Hendrik Hudson when he first brought his + ship through the Narrows and saw the Bay of New York_.) + + +Stevenson's second landing in New York was a great contrast to his +first. The "Amateur Emigrant" had no one to bid him welcome and Godspeed +but a West Street tavern-keeper, and now when Mr. Will Low, his old +friend of Fontainebleau days, hastened to the dock to welcome him on the +_Ludgate Hill_, he found the author of "Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde" already +surrounded by reporters. + +The trip had done him good in spite of their passage having been an +unusually rough one, with numerous discomforts. The _Ludgate Hill_ was +not an up-to-date liner and she carried a very mixed cargo. The very +fact of her being a tramp ship and that the passengers were free to be +about with the men and officers, stay in the wheel-house, and enjoy a +real sea life, delighted Stevenson, and he wrote back to Sidney Colvin: + +"I enjoyed myself more than I could have hoped on board our floating +menagerie; stallions and monkeys and matches made our cargo; and the +vast continent of the incongruities rolled the while like a haystack; +and the stallions stood hypnotized by the motion, looking through the +port at our dinner table, and winnied when the crockery was broken; and +the little monkeys stared at one another in their cages ... and the big +monkey, Jacko scoured about the ship and rested willingly in my arms ... +the other passengers, when they were not sick, looked on and laughed. +Take all this picture, and make it roll till the bell shall sound +unexpected notes and the fittings shall break loose in our state rooms, +and you have the voyage of the Ludgate Hill. She arrived in the port of +New York without beer, porter, soda-water, curaçoa, fresh meat, or fresh +water, and yet we lived and we regret her." + +After a short visit with friends in Newport they returned to New York +and settled down for a time in the Hotel St. Stephen, on 11th Street, +near University Place, to make plans for their winter's trip. + +Soon after their arrival "Jekyll and Hyde" was dramatized and produced +with great success. When it was known that the author of this remarkable +story was in the city, people flocked from all sides to call on him, and +fairly wearied him with their attentions, although he liked to see them +and made many interesting acquaintances at the time. + +Washington Square was one of his favorite spots in New York, and he +spent many hours there watching the children playing about. A day he +always recalled with special pleasure was the one when he had spent a +whole forenoon in the Square talking with Mark Twain. + +Among those who were anxious to know Stevenson was the American +sculptor Augustus St. Gaudens. He had been delighted with his writings +and regretted he had not met him in Paris when he and Mr. Low had been +there together. "If Stevenson ever comes to New York," he said to Mr. +Low, "I want to meet him," and added that he would consider it a great +privilege if Stevenson would permit him to make his portrait. + +It was with much pleasure, therefore, that Mr. Low brought them +together, and they took to one another immediately. "I like your +sculptor. What a splendid straightforward and simple fellow he is," said +Stevenson; and St. Gaudens's comment after their first meeting was: +"Astonishingly young, not a bit like an invalid and a bully fellow." + +Stevenson readily consented to sit for his portrait, and they spent many +delightful hours together while the sketches were being made for it. + +One day the sculptor brought his eight-year-old son, Homer, with him, +and years afterward gave the following description of the child's visit: + +"On the way I endeavored to impress on the boy the fact that he was +about to see a man whom he must remember all his life. It was a lovely +day and as I entered the room Stevenson lay as usual on rather a high +bed. I presented Homer to him ... but since my son's interest, +notwithstanding my injunctions, was to say the least far from +enthusiastic, I sent him out to play. + +[Illustration: Bas-relief of Stevenson by Augustus Saint Gaudens] + +"I then asked Stevenson to pose but that was not successful ... all the +gestures being forced and affected. Therefore I suggested to him that if +he would try to write, some natural attitude might result. He assented +and taking a sheet of paper ... he pulled his knees up and began. +Immediately his attitude was such that I was enabled to create something +of use and continued drawing while he wrote with an occasional smile. +Presently I finished and told him there was no necessity for his writing +any more. He did not reply but proceeded for quite a while. Then he +folded the paper with deliberation, placed it in an envelope, addressed +it, and handed it to me. It was to 'Master Homer St. Gaudens.' + +"I asked him: 'Do you wish me to give this to the boy?' + +"'Yes,' + +"'When? Now?' + +"'Oh, no, in five or ten years, or when I am dead.' + +"I put it in a safe and here it is: + + +"May 27, 1888. + +"DEAR HOMER ST. GAUDENS--Your father has brought you this day to see me +and tells me it is his hope you may remember the occasion. I am going to +do what I can to carry out his wish; and it may amuse you, years after, +to see this little scrap of paper and to read what I write. I must begin +by testifying that you yourself took no interest whatever in the +introduction, and in the most proper spirit displayed a single-minded +ambition to get back to play, and this I thought an excellent and +admirable point in your character. You were also,--I use the past tense +with a view to the time when you shall read rather than to that when I +am writing,--a very pretty boy, and to my European views startlingly +self-possessed. My time of observation was so limited that you must +pardon me if I can say no more ... but you may perhaps like to know that +the lean, flushed man in bed, who interested you so little, was in a +state of mind extremely mingled and unpleasant; harassed with work which +he thought he was not doing well, troubled with difficulties to which +you will in time succeed, and yet looking forward to no less a matter +than a voyage to the South Seas and the visitation of savage and desert +islands. + "Your father's friend, + "ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON." + + +The portrait was finished in bas-relief and many copies were made of it. +The most familiar is the one giving only Stevenson's head and +shoulders, but the splendid big one placed as a memorial to him in St. +Giles's Cathedral in Edinburgh shows him as he must have looked that day +lying in bed, writing to Homer St. Gaudens. + +Another man in New York whom Stevenson had admired for years and longed +to meet was General Sherman. The war was long past, and he was then an +old gentleman living very quietly. One day St. Gaudens took Stevenson to +call on him, and he was asked afterward if he was at all disappointed in +his hero. + +"Disappointed," he exclaimed. "It was simply magnificent to stand in the +presence of one who has done what he has, and then to find him so genial +and human. It was the next thing to seeing Wellington, and I dare say +the Iron Duke would not have been half so human." + +The anticipation of a train trip across the continent was so distasteful +that a proposed visit to Colorado was given up, and they decided to try +the climate of the Adirondacks for the winter instead. + +They chose Saranac, not far from the Canadian border, and rented a +cottage there. + +The climate was as unpleasant as possible. It rained, snowed, sleeted, +and froze continually. The cold at times was arctic, the thermometer +dropping thirty degrees below zero in January. "Venison was crunching +with ice after being an hour in the oven, and a large lump of ice was +still unmelted in a pot where water was steaming all around it." + +Their cottage was dubbed "Hunter's Home." It was far from the railroad, +few luxuries were to be had, and they lived a simple life in earnest. + +Of course, they had a dog; no "hunter's home" would be complete without +one, but Louis scouted the idea of adding things as unfitting as plush +table-covers and upholstered footstools. The table went bare, and he +fashioned a footstool for his mother out of a log, in true backwoods +fashion. + +His wife and mother found the cold hard to bear, but he stood it +remarkably well and benefited by it. Saranac reminded him of Scotland, +he said, without the smell of peats and the heather. + +Dressed in a buffalo coat, astrakhan cap, and Indian boots, he and Lloyd +walked, skated, or went sleighing every day. + +His pen was kept busy also. A new novel, "The Master of Ballantrae," was +started, and he contributed a series of articles to _Scribner's +Magazine_. For these he was paid a regular sum offered by the publishers +and agreed upon in advance--a new experience. It made him feel "awfu' +grand," he told a Scotch friend. + +A venture he had been longing to make since a boy was a cruise among the +islands of the South Seas. While enduring the bitter cold of Saranac +such hazy ideas as he had had about such a trip began to form themselves +into a definite scheme. He was anxious for a long voyage; perhaps the +warm sea air might cure him after all else had failed. + +So night after night he and Lloyd eagerly pored over books and maps, +and the family discussed plans for such an expedition. + +When spring came Mrs. Stevenson started for San Francisco to secure, if +possible, a yacht in which they might undertake such a cruise. If all +went well Louis and his mother and Lloyd would follow. + +While they waited for results they spent the time at Manasquan, on the +New Jersey coast. There Stevenson and his son enjoyed the sailing, and +their New York friends came often to see them. + +Mr. Low tells of the day at Manasquan when word was received from Mrs. +Stevenson that she had found a schooner-yacht satisfactory for the +voyage. + +An answer must be sent at once. Her husband telegraphed that they would +come, but it was not without misgivings that he made this final +decision. There was much at stake in an uncertain venture of the kind. +It meant a sacrifice of comfort for his wife and mother, big expense, +and perhaps no better health in the end. + +However, it seemed worth the risk, and having decided to go he began to +look forward to the trip with boyish delight. "It will be horrid fun," +he said, "to be an invalid gentleman on board a yacht, to walk around +with a spy-glass under your arm, to make landings and trade beads and +chromos for cocoanuts, and to have the natives swim out to meet you." + +He and Lloyd spent hours laying their course and making out lists of +stores with which to furnish the schooner, regardless of the doubt +expressed by their friends as to the capacity of the boat. "They calmly +proceeded with their interminable lists and scorned the criticism of a +mere land-lubber. All conversation that was not of a nautical character +failed to hold their interest." + +Cheered with strong hopes for Louis's future, the family departed for +San Francisco on the 28th of May, 1888. Their one regret was the good +friends they were leaving behind. This particularly affected Louis, but +he tried to hide his feelings by making all sorts of lively and +impossible proposals for their joining him later on. + +His parting words to Mr. Low were: "There's England over there--and I've +left it--perhaps I may never go back--and there on the other side of +this big continent there's another sea rolling in. I loved the Pacific +in the days when I was at Monterey, and perhaps now it will love me a +little. I am going to meet it; ever since I was a boy the South Seas +have laid a spell upon me." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +IN THE SOUTH SEAS + + "Since long ago, a child at home, + I read and longed to rise and roam, + Where'er I went, what'er I willed, + One promised land my fancy filled. + Hence the long road my home I made; + Tossed much in ships; have often laid + Below the uncurtained sky my head, + Rain-deluged and wind buffeted; + And many a thousand miles I crossed, + And corners turned--love's labor lost, + Till, Lady, to your isle of sun + I came, not hoping, and like one + Snatched out of blindness, rubbed my eyes, + And hailed my promised land with cries." + + +Once, while Louis was a discontented student at the University of +Edinburgh, the premier of New Zealand, Mr. Seed, spent an evening with +his father and talked about the South Sea Islands until the boy said he +was "sick with desire to go there." + +From that time on a visit to that out-of-the-way corner of the earth was +a cherished dream, and he read everything he could lay hands on that +told about it. + +While in California, the first time, Mr. Virgil Williams, an artist, +aroused his interest still more by the accounts of his own trip in the +South Seas. + +Now his opportunity to see them had actually come. He already knew much +of the kind of places and people they were going among. + +Three thousand miles across the open sea lay the Marquesas Islands, the +first group they hoped to visit, and it was for that port their +schooner, the _Casco_, turned her head when she was towed out of the +Golden Gate at dawn on the 28th of June. + +Besides the family and a servant, Valentine Roch, who had been with them +since Bournemouth days, the party consisted of the skipper, Captain +Otis, who was well acquainted with the Pacific, a crew of four +deck-hands, and a Japanese cook. + +The _Casco_ was a fore-and-aft schooner, ninety-five feet in length, of +seventy tons' burden. "She had most graceful lines and with her lofty +masts, white sails and decks, and glittering brass work, was a lovely +craft to the eye as she sat upon the water." + +"I must try to describe the vessel that is to be our home for so long," +Mrs. Stevenson, senior, wrote to her sister at Colinton. "From the deck +you step down into the cockpit, which is our open air drawing room. It +has seats all around, nicely cushioned, and we sit or lie there most of +the day. The compass is there, and the wheel, so the man at the wheel +always keeps us company.... At the bottom of the stairs on the right +hand side is the captain's room. Straight ahead is the main--or +after--cabin, a nice bright place with a skylight and four portholes. +There are four sofas that can be turned into beds if need be, and there +are lockers under them in which our clothes are stored away. Above and +behind each sofa is a berth concealed by white lace curtains on brass +rods, and in these berths we three women are laid away as on shelves +each night to sleep. + +"Opposite the entrance is a mirror let into the wall, with two small +shelves under it. On each side of this is a door. The one to the right +leads ... to Lloyd's cabin, and beyond that again is the forward cabin, +or dining room. The door to the left opens into ... Louis' +sleeping-room. It is very roomy with both a bed and a sofa in it, so +that he will be very comfortable.... + +"The dining room has a long table and chairs. Between the doors a very +ugly picture of fruit and cake. Louis would fain cover it up if we could +spare a flag with which to do it. The doors at the further end lead to +the pantry and galley and beyond these are the men's quarters." + +No expense had been spared in building the _Casco_ to make her +comfortable. She was intended, however, for cruising in the California +waters and was hardly suited to the rough handling she received during +the squally weather of the next few months. Fortunately she stood the +test well and her passengers suffered few discomforts. + +Once under way and settled for living, the trip proved quite uneventful. +The long days were spent on deck reading or working, and Stevenson began +to gather material for a book on the South Seas. The ship's life suited +him admirably; every strange fish and new star interested him, and he +grew stronger hourly in the warm air. + +"Since the fifth day," he wrote, "we were left behind by a full-rigged +English ship ... bound round the Horn, we have not spied a sail, nor a +land bird, nor a shred of sea-weed. In impudent isolation, the toy +schooner has plowed her path of snow across the empty deep, far from all +track of commerce, far from any hand of help; now to the sound of +slatting sails and stamping sheet blocks, staggering in the turmoil of +that business falsely called a calm, now, in the assault of squalls +burying her lee-rail in the sea.... Flying fish, a skimming silver rain +on the blue sea; a turtle fast asleep in the early morning sunshine; +the Southern Cross hung thwart the forerigging like the frame of a +wrecked kite--the pole star and the familiar plough dropping ever lower +in the wake; these build up thus far the history of our voyage. It is +singular to come so far and see so infinitely little." + +The squalls that came very quickly, frequently broke the monotony of the +trip. One moment the _Casco_ would be sailing along easily and the "next +moment, the inhabitants of the cabin were piled one upon another, the +sea was pouring into the cockpit and spouting in fountains through +forgotten deadlights, and the steersman stood spinning the wheel for his +life in a halo of tropical rain." + +After twenty-two days at sea they sighted their first island, Nukahiva, +one of the Marquesan group, and were all on deck before dawn anxiously +watching for it. They not only looked forward eagerly to the sight of +land again after so many days on the open ocean, but it was indeed an +adventure to come to a country totally strange to all of them, where +few white people had been before. + +"Not one soul aboard the Casco had set foot upon the Islands," says +Stevenson, "or knew except by accident one word of any of the island +tongues; and it was with something perhaps of the same anxious pleasure +as thrilled the bosom of the discoverers that we drew near these +problematic shores. + +"Before yet the anchor plunged a canoe was already paddling from the +hamlet. It contained two men: one white, one brown and tattooed across +the face with bands of blue, both immaculate with white European +clothes.... Canoe followed canoe till the ship swarmed with stalwart, +six foot men in every stage of undress ... the more considerable +tattooed from head to foot in awful patterns ... all talking and we +could not understand one word; all trying to trade with us who had no +thought of trading, or offering us island curios at prices palpably +absurd." + +All this charmed and delighted Stevenson, who had dreamed many times of +witnessing just such a scene. He wrote to Cummie that he was living all +over again many of the stories she had read to him and found them coming +true about himself. + +For six weeks they cruised about among these islands, frequently +dropping anchor and going ashore for several days. When the natives were +convinced that they had neither come to trade or to make trouble, but +were simply interested in them and their country, they made the visitors +most welcome and showered presents of fruit, mats, baskets, and fans +upon them. + +All were eager to visit the schooner, which they called _Pahi Mani_, +meaning the shining or the silver ship. The chiefs tried to measure its +dimensions with their arms. The liveliest curiosity was shown about +everything; the red velvet cushions, the looking-glasses, and the +typewriter pleased particularly. A photograph of Queen Victoria hung in +the fore-cabin and was always described to the island callers as _Vahine +Haka-iki Beritano_, which meant literally, woman-great-chief Britain. It +was a surprise to find how much many of them already knew about her. + +Some afternoons the _Casco_ swarmed with these strange visitors who were +always delighted at the refreshments of ship's biscuits and pineapple +syrup and water offered them. A certain chief was particularly taken +with a pair of gloves belonging to Mrs. Stevenson, senior. He smelled of +them, called them British tattooing, and insisted on her putting them on +and off a great many times. + +The entire family fell quickly into the island mode of living; dressed +as the white inhabitants did; ate all the strange kinds of native food; +and when ashore lived in the native houses, which resembled bird-cages +on stilts. The climate suited them to perfection, and Stevenson +particularly benefited by it, bathing daily in the warm surf and taking +long walks along the beach in search of strange shells. + +"Here we are," his mother wrote to Cummie, "in a little bay surrounded +by green mountains, on which sheep are grazing, and there are birds very +like our own 'blackies' singing in the trees. If it were not for the +groves of cocoanut palms, we might almost fancy ourselves in our own +dear land. But the climate here is simply perfect. Of course it is hot, +but there are always fresh breezes.... We have our principal meal at +twelve o'clock, and spend the after part of the day on shore ... +bathing, gathering shells, knitting, or reading. Our Japanese cook and +steward just sets out the table with cold meats, fruit, and cake so that +we can take our other meal at any time in the evening that suits us. + +"Fanny and I are dressed like natives, in two garments. As we have to +wade to and from the boat in landing and coming back, we discard +stockings, and on the sands we usually go barefoot entirely. Louis wears +only a shirt and trousers with the legs and arms rolled up as far as +they will go, and he is always barefooted. You will therefore not be +surprised to hear that we are all as red as lobsters. It is a strange +irresponsible half savage life, and I sometimes wonder if we shall ever +be able to return to civilized habits again. + +[Illustration: South Sea houses] + +"The natives are very simple and kindly people. The Roman Catholic +priests have persuaded them to give up their constant wars and the +practice of cannibalism, though only within recent years.... + +"Louis has learned a good many words of the language, and with the help +of signs can contrive to carry on a conversation, but I have stuck fast +with two words: '_ka-oha_' which means 'How do you do?' 'thank you,' and +'good bye,' and I am not quite sure how much else, and '_Mitai_,' +meaning good, nice, pretty, kind. I don't expect to get beyond these, +but it is wonderful how much one can express with them.... + +"The natives have got names for us all. Louis was at first 'the old +man,' much to his distress; but now they call him '_Ona_' meaning owner +of the yacht, a name he greatly prefers to the first. Fanny is _Vahine_, +or wife; I am the _old woman_, and Lloyd rejoices in the name of _Maté +Karahi_, the young man with glass eyes (spectacles). Perhaps it is a +compliment here to be called old, as it is in China, at any rate, one +native told Louis that he himself was old, but his mother was not!... + +"A native dance was got up for our benefit. None of the dancing-women +appeared, but five men dressed in shirt and trousers, danced together +with spirit and grace. The music was provided by a drum, made out of an +old tin box. Many of the steps reminded me of a Highland reel, but were +curiously mixed up with calisthenic, and even gymnastic exercises; the +hands in particular were used very gracefully, and they often took off +their hats and waved them to and fro. But they also climbed on each +other's shoulders, and did other strange things. After dancing for some +time, they sang songs to us in a curious, low, weird kind of crooning. +Altogether it was a strange sort of afternoon party!" + +The Marquesas Islands belong to the French, and the commandant in +charge was most cordial to Stevenson, inviting him to his house +frequently during his stay in the islands. When at the expiration of six +weeks it was time for the _Casco_ to weigh anchor and the party sailed +on to explore still farther, they left behind them many friends who +regretted their departure. Here as elsewhere in the South Seas, +Stevenson showed his sympathy and kindliness toward the island people +regardless of who they were or their rank. White or half-caste priest, +missionary, or trader, all were treated the same. No bribe, he said, +would induce him to call the natives savages. + +Mr. Johnstone, an English resident in the South Seas at the time of +Stevenson's visit, says: "His inborn courtesy more than any of his other +good traits, endeared him to his fellows in the Pacific ... in the +hearts of our Island people he built a monument more lasting than stone +or brass." + +The recollection of the history of his own wild Scottish Islands, the +people and conditions his grandfather found among them, helped him to +understand these people and account for many of their actions. Though at +opposite ends of the earth, many of their customs and legends +corresponded. The dwellers in the Hebrides in the old days likewise +lived in clans with their chief and struggled to retain their +independence against an invading power. + +Tahiti, one of the group of Society Islands, was their next stopping +place. Before starting a new mate was shipped, who was more familiar +with the course, which lay through the Dangerous Archipelago--a group of +low, badly lighted islands. + +The Society Islands are most beautiful, Tahiti probably the gem of them +all, but on arriving Stevenson was in no condition to appreciate their +loveliness. A cold contracted on the trip made him quite ill. The trip +had proved very dangerous even with the aid of a pilot, and twice they +gave themselves up for lost when they were becalmed and drifted in +toward the shore. "The reefs were close in," wrote Stevenson, "with my +eye! What a surf! The pilot thought we were gone and the captain had a +boat cleared, when a lucky squall came to our rescue." + +After landing his condition became so much worse his wife grew desperate +and determined to find a comfortable spot for him. After much trouble a +Chinaman with a team was secured, who agreed to drive the entire family +to Tautira, the largest village, sixteen miles away over a road crossed +by no less than twenty-one streams. On this uncertain venture they +started, with the head of the family in a state of collapse, knowing +nothing of the village they were going to or the living it would afford +them. + +None of them ever regretted the perseverance which led them on, however, +for in all their wanderings in the South Seas before or after no place +ever charmed them more, or were they received with greater hospitality +than in Tautira. + +The day after their arrival, Moe, an island princess and an ex-queen, +visited them. When she found Stevenson ill she insisted he and his +family be moved to her own house where they could have more comforts. +The house at the time was occupied by Ori, a subchief, a subject and +relative of the princess. But he and his family gladly turned out to +make room for the visitors and lived in a tiny house near by. + +"Ori is the very finest specimen of native we have seen yet," wrote Mrs. +Stevenson. "He is several inches over six feet, of perfect though almost +gigantic proportions." + +As soon as her husband was strong enough to be about again he and Ori +became great friends. Finally, according to an island custom, Stevenson +was adopted into Ori's clan and became his brother. This likewise meant +exchanging names and Ori became Rui, the nearest possible approach to +Louis since there is no L or S in the Tahitian language. Louis in turn +became Teriitera (pronounced Ter_ee_terah), which was Ori's Christian +name, Ori standing merely for his clan title. + +To show their gratitude for the hospitality shown them by Ori and the +people of the village, Stevenson decided to give a public feast. + +The feast day was set for Wednesday, and the previous Sunday a chief +issued the invitations from the Farehau, a house resembling an enormous +bird-cage in the centre of the village, from which all the news was read +aloud to the people once a week. + +A feast of such size necessitated much preparation. + +"The chief, who was our guide in the matter," wrote Mrs. Stevenson, +"found four large fat hogs, which Louis bought, and four cases of ship's +biscuit were sent over from the Casco, which is lying at Papeete for +repairs.... Our hogs were killed in the morning, washed in the sea, and +roasted whole in a pit with hot stones. When done they were laid on +their stomachs in neat open coffins of green basket work, each hog with +his case of biscuits beside him. Early in the morning the entire +population began bathing, a bath being the preliminary to everything. +At about three o'clock--four was the hour set--there was a general +movement toward our premises, so that I had to hurry Louis into his +clothes, all white even to his shoes. Lloyd was also in white, but +barefoot.... The chief, who speaks French very well, stood beside Louis +to interpret for him. By the time we had taken our respective places on +the veranda in front of our door, an immense crowd had assembled. They +came in five detachments.... Each set of people came bending under the +weight of bamboo poles laden with fruits, figs, fowls, etc. All were +dressed in their gayest and many had wreaths of leaves or flowers on +their heads. The prettiest sight of all was the children, who came +marching two and two abreast, the bamboo poles lying lengthwise across +their shoulders. + +"When all the offerings had been piled in five great heaps upon the +ground, Louis made his oration to the accompaniment of the squealing of +pigs, the cackling of hens, and the roar of the surf.... A speech was +made in return on behalf of the village.... Each speaker finished by +coming forward with one of the smaller things in his hand, which he +offered personally to Louis, and then shook hands with us all and +retired. Among these smaller presents were many fish-hooks for large +fishing, laboriously carved from mother-of-pearl shell. One man came +with one egg in each hand saying 'carry these to Scotland with you, let +them hatch into cocks, and their song shall remind you of Tautira.' The +schoolmaster, with a leaf-basket of rose apples, made his speech in +French." + +While overhauling the _Casco_ two or three days before they planned to +leave Tautira, Captain Otis was shocked to find the whole upper half of +the main masthead completely eaten out by dry-rot. This necessitated +taking the schooner around to Papeete, on the other side of the island, +for repairs. Under ordinary circumstances the setting of a new masthead +need to have delayed them but a few days; in the South Seas, however, +it was a different matter. Only after searching for days in Papeete was +he able to find a man who knew anything of ship-carpentering, and when +found he worked according to his own sweet will. So it was five weeks +before the _Casco_ was ready to return for her passengers, who in the +meantime were in a state of anxiety as to her whereabouts. + +During their enforced stay Ori treated the entire family like a brother +indeed, doing everything in his power to make their visit pleasant. + +At last, on Christmas Day, they were ready to depart. The entire +population of Tautira came to the beach to bid them farewell, and as the +_Casco_ swung out of the harbor one of the French officials fired a +salute of twenty-one guns with his army rifle and the schooner returned +it with a heavy-tongued Winchester. + +Tautira had grown to seem like a real home to all of them. To leave it +with very little hope of ever returning to see such good friends as +Princess Moe and Ori was a real grief, while they in their turn were +quite heart-broken. Stevenson's friendship had brought something into +their lives they had never had before. + +Honolulu was the goal of the _Casco_ now, and all eagerly looked forward +to the letters waiting for them there--the first word from home since +leaving San Francisco. + +Bad weather attended the _Casco_ all the way. They were delayed by a +succession of hurricanes and calms until the supply of food ran very low +and they were reduced to a diet of "salt-horse" and ship-biscuit. + +The last forty-eight hours of their run was made in the very teeth of a +furious gale when the captain took big risks by carrying full sail, with +the hope of making port before their supply of food and water was +entirely exhausted. In spite of the danger, Stevenson enjoyed this +daring run hugely. Later, when he and Lloyd wrote "The Wrecker" +together, this very episode figured in the story, Captain Otis under the +name of Captain Nares performing a similar sail-carrying feat on the +schooner _Norah Creina_. + +Mrs. Strong, Stevenson's stepdaughter, and her family were waiting in +Honolulu and gave them a warm welcome. The travellers soon found +themselves the centre of interest among Mrs. Strong's large circle of +friends and it was with difficulty Stevenson found time to finish the +last chapters of "The Master of Ballantrae," which he had been working +on since leaving Saranac. + +Honolulu, with its street-cars, shops, electric lights, and mixture of +native and foreign population, seemed strangely crowded and modern after +the scenes they had recently left; too modern by far to suit Stevenson, +who preferred the unconventional wild life of the islands they had come +from. + +At the Royal Palace in Honolulu, Kalakaua, the last of the Hawaiian +kings, still held court. He enjoyed R.L.S. and invited him often to the +palace and told him the history and legends of many of the islands of +the South Seas. It was from Kalakaua he first learned to know the +troubled history of the Samoan Islands and of Apia, which was to be his +future home. + +The Island of Molokai, the leper colony, lay not far off. While in +Honolulu he spent several days there, in the place where Father Damien +had lately done his splendid work. + +According to their original scheme they were to return home from +Honolulu, but having come so far they were eager to see more. They had +tasted the dangers and fascination of the life among the wild islands, +each so different, and it had only whetted their appetites for what lay +still beyond. The chances of coming so far again were slight; it seemed +too good an opportunity to miss. So Stevenson wrote to the friends at +home, whom he longed daily to see: "Yes--I own up--I am untrue to +friendship and (what is less, but still considerable) to civilization. I +am not coming home for another year.... But look here and judge me +tenderly. I have had more fun and pleasure of my life these past months +than ever before, and more health than any time in ten long years.... +And this precious deep is filled with islands which we may still visit, +and though the sea is a dreadful place, I like to be there, and like +squalls (when they are over) and to draw near to a new island I can not +say how much I like.... + +"Remember me as I was at home, and think of me sea-bathing and walking +about, as jolly as a sand boy; you will own the temptation is strong; +and as the scheme, bar fatal accidents, is bound to pay into the +bargain, sooner or later, it seems it would be madness to come home now, +with an imperfect book ... and perhaps fall sick again by autumn. + +"It is a singular thing that as I was packing up old papers ere I left +Skerryvore, I came on the prophecies of a drunken Highland sibyl, when I +was sixteen. She said I was to be very happy,--to visit America and _to +be much upon the sea_.... I can not say why I like the sea ... my poor +grandfather it is from him I inherit the taste I fancy, and he was +around many islands in his day; but I, please God, shall beat him at +that before the recall is sounded." + +So the _Casco_ was shipped back to San Francisco, Mrs. Stevenson, +senior, returned to Scotland for a visit, and the trading schooner +_Equator_ was chartered for a trip among the Marshall, Gilbert, and +Samoan Islands. + +Just before leaving, the following letter came from Ori, which Stevenson +says he would rather have received than written "Red Gauntlet" or the +"Sixth Æneid." + +"I make you to know my great affection. At the hour when you left us, I +was filled with tears; my wife Rui Telime, also, and all my household. +When you embarked I felt great sorrow. It is for this that I went upon +the road, and you looked from that ship, and I looked at you on the ship +with great grief until you had raised the anchor and hoisted the sail. +When the ship started I ran along the beach to see you still; and when +you were in the open sea I cried out to you 'Farewell Louis,' and when +I was coming back to my house I seemed to hear your voice crying, 'Rui, +farewell.' Afterwards I watched the ship as long as I could until the +night fell; and when it was dark I said to myself: 'If I had wings I +should fly to the ship to meet you,'... I wept then ... telling myself +continually, 'Teriitera returns to his own country and leaves his dear +Rui in grief.'... I will not forget you in my memory. Here is the +thought: I desire to meet you again. It is my Teriitera makes the only +riches I desire in this world. It is your eyes that I desire to see +again. It must be that your body and my body shall eat together at one +table, there is what would make my heart content. But now we are +separated. May God be with you all. May His word and His mercy go with +you, so that you may be well and we also, according to the words of +Paul. + +"ORI A ORI, that is to say, RUI." + +"All told," said Stevenson, "if my books have enabled or helped me to +make this voyage, to know Rui, and to have received such a letter, they +have ... not been writ in vain." + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +VAILIMA + + "We thank Thee for this place in which we dwell; for the love that + unites us; for the peace accorded us this day; for the hope with which + we expect the morrow; for the health, the work, the food, and the + bright skies that make our lives delightful, for the friends in all + parts of the earth, and our friendly helpers in this foreign isle.... + Give us courage and gaiety and the quiet mind. Spare to us our + friends, soften to us our enemies. Bless us, if it may be, in all our + innocent endeavors. If it may not, give us strength to encounter that + which is to come, that we may be brave in peril, constant in + tribulation, temperate in wrath, and in all changes of fortune, and + down to the gates of death, loyal and loving one to another." R.L.S. + + --_Prayer used with the household at Vailima_. + + +On the 7th of December, when the family landed at Upolu, the chief of +the Samoas or Samoan Islands, they little dreamed it was to be their +home for the next four years and the last the master of the house was +ever to know. + +It had been frequently borne upon Stevenson, however, while cruising +among the Marshall and Gilbert Islands during the past months, that a +home in either England or Scotland again was a vain dream for him. + +"I do not ask for health," he said, "but I will go anywhere and live in +any place where I can enjoy the existence of a human being." He seldom +complained and it is rare to find even the brave sort of cry he made +against fate to a friend at this time. + +"For fourteen years I have not had a day's real health. I have wakened +sick and gone to bed weary, and I have done my work unflinchingly. I +have written in bed, and written out of it, written in hemorrhages, +written in sickness, written torn by coughing, written when my head swam +for weakness, and for so long, it seems to me I have won my wager and +recovered my glove. I am better now, have been, rightly speaking, since +I first came to the Pacific; and still few are the days when I am not in +some physical distress. And the battle goes on--ill or well, is a +trifle; so as it goes. I was made for a contest, and the Powers have so +willed that my battlefield shall be this dingy inglorious one of the +bed and the physics bottle." + +Here in the tropics he might hope to live and work years longer--a +return to a cold climate, he now knew, would be fatal. + +Why not turn traders? Often on starry nights, drifting among the low +islands, he and Lloyd and the captain of the _Equator_ had lain out on +deck and planned what a lark it would be to buy a schooner, cruise among +the islands, and trade with the natives. They would write stories, too, +about these strange island dwellers with their many weird superstitions +and of the white men who drifted from all corners of the globe to make +their home there. + +Already Captain Reid had told them many such tales which Stevenson wove +into stories. The "Beach of Falesá" and the "Isle of Voices" are +probably the two most famous, while "the strange story of the loss of +the brigantine Wandering Minstrel and what men and ships do in that wild +and beautiful world beyond the American continent" formed a plot for +the story called "The Wrecker," which he and Lloyd Osbourne wrote +together later on. + +Samoa was a place he was eager to visit. King Kalakaua at Honolulu had +already told him much of its troubled history. The group of thirteen +islands lay about four thousand two hundred miles southwest of San +Francisco. At that time they were under the control of England, Germany, +and the United States according to a treaty entered into in 1889. These +countries appointed a chief justice, a president of the municipal +council, three consuls, and three land commissioners. A native king was +likewise recognized on each island. + +This triple control proved most unsatisfactory and for years past there +had been constant friction among the officials and warlike outbreaks +among the natives. + +These complications interested Stevenson. His first idea had been to +stop there but a short time. He now found he wanted to remain in Samoa +long enough to write its history. + +The Samoans are true Polynesians; a strong and handsome race whose +reputation is high among all the people of the Pacific. The large +majority have become Christians, but in spite of the influence of the +missionaries and the foreign powers who control them, they retain many +of their old customs and habits. They are naturally peace-loving in +spite of their many wars. Fighting does not appeal to them for its own +sake, and they enjoy a good family life, treating their women with great +respect and lavishing affection upon their children. + +Stevenson wanted those at home to know these people better; his +sympathy, which was ever with the weaker side, was instantly aroused in +behalf of the natives, and he wanted to tell their side of the story. + +If they were to make a home anywhere in the South Seas there could be no +better spot than Apia, the principal port and capital of these islands, +as it had a good mail service, a most important feature to a writer. +The monthly mail-steamers between San Francisco and Sydney, as well as +other Australian mail-boats, stopped there. + +So he purchased four hundred acres on the hills three miles from Apia +and preparations were immediately made for clearing the ground and +building a house. Lloyd Osbourne left for England to bring back the +household treasures from Skerryvore, to make a real home, and Stevenson +and his wife lived gypsy fashion meanwhile in a four-room wooden house. + +The new home was named Vailima, which is Samoan for "Five Waters," there +being five streams running through the property. + +The house was built of wood, painted dark green with a red roof. When +finished its chief feature was the great hall within, sixty feet long, +lined and ceiled with California redwood. Here among the home +treasures--his own portrait, war dresses, corselets, fans, and mats +presented to him by island kings--the marble bust of grandfather +Stevenson smiled down with approval on many a motley gathering. Louis +often wondered if they reminded the old gentleman of some of the strange +people he had entertained years ago in Baxter Place. + +All about was dense, tropical undergrowth, only paths led to the house, +and these must continually be cut out. All carrying was done by two big +New Zealand pack-horses. + +A large garden was planted--Mrs. Stevenson's special hobby. Cocoanuts, +oranges, guavas, and mangoes already grew on the estate. The ground was +very fertile, and kava, the root of which is used for the Samoan +national drink, pineapples, sweet potatoes, and eggplants were soon +flourishing among other things. Limes were so plentiful that they formed +the hedge about the place; citrons were so common that they rotted on +the trees. + +[Illustration: The house at Vailima] + +All this ground-breaking, house-building, and gardening were new to +Stevenson, and he revelled in them to the neglect of his writing. + +"This is a hard and interesting and beautiful life we lead now," he +wrote to Sidney Colvin. "Our place is in a deep cleft of Væa Mountain; +some six hundred feet above the sea, embowered in forest, which is our +strangling enemy, and which we combat with axes and dollars. I am crazy +over outdoor work, and had at last to confine myself to the house, or +literature must have gone by the board. _Nothing_ is so interesting as +weeding, clearing, and pathmaking; the oversight of laborers becomes a +disease; it is quite an effort not to drop into the farmer; and it does +make you feel so well. To come down covered with mud and drenched with +sweat and rain after some hours in the bush, change, rub down, and take +a chair in the verandah, is to taste a quiet conscience." + +Before his arrival in Apia, Stevenson's tale of "The Bottle Imp" had +been translated into Samoan by the missionaries. When the natives +discovered he was its author they immediately named him Tusitala, The +Teller-of-Tales. He still owned the bottle, they said; it was that gave +him the wealth to cruise about in a great boat and build a fine house. +The family often wondered why native visitors were curious to see the +inside of the great safe in the hall at Vailima until they found that it +was the belief among the islanders that the safe was the bottle's +hiding-place. + +Mrs. Stevenson, senior, returned with Lloyd from England, and later Mrs. +Strong and her small son, Austin, came from Honolulu to make the family +complete. + +The servants were all natives, "boys" as they called themselves. There +were usually about half a dozen about the house, with a boy for the +garden and to look after the cows and pigs, besides a band of outside +laborers, varying from half a dozen to thirty, under Lloyd's direction. + +Sosimo was Stevenson's particular boy. He waited upon him hand and foot, +looked after his clothes and his pony "Jack," and was devoted in every +way. His loyalty to his master lasted to the end of his own life. + +The servants were governed on something very like the clan system. A +Vailima tartan was adopted for special occasions and Stevenson +encouraged them to think of the household as a family, to take interest +and pride in all its doings. + +On Sunday evenings the entire household was assembled. A chapter of the +Samoan Bible was read and Samoan hymns sung. Then a prayer in English +written by Stevenson was read, concluding with the Lord's Prayer in +Samoan. + +If the master had cause to be displeased with any one of them, they were +all summoned and reprimanded or fined. + +His stories delighted them. They were never tired of looking at the +picture of Skerryvore Light and hearing about the rugged coasts of +Tusitala's native island and of his father and grandfather who built +lighthouses. The latter impressed them greatly, since building of any +kind in Samoa is considered a fine art. The deeds of General Gordon, the +Indian Mutiny, and Lucknow were likewise favorite tales when Tusitala +showed them a treasure he prized highly: a message written by General +Gordon from Khartoum. It was in Arabic on a small piece of +cigarette-paper which might be easily swallowed should the messenger be +captured. Stevenson always believed it to be the last message sent +before the great general's death. + +They came to him for everything and he was ever ready with help and +advice. They were quick to appreciate his justice and kindliness, and to +a man were devoted to him. "Once Tusitala's friend, always Tusitala's +friend," they said. + +With his customary energy he threw himself heart and soul for a time +into the political troubles of the island, making himself the champion +of the natives' cause. He wrote a series of letters to the papers at +home stating his idea of the injustice shown the Samoans under their +present government. It was a most delicate situation, and at times led +to very strained relations between himself and the officials in Apia. + +Those at home wondered why Stevenson tampered with island politics at +all. Why did he not simply leave them to the powers in charge? + +His answer was, he had made Samoa his home, the Samoans were his people, +and he could not fail to resent any injustice shown them. + +Lloyd Osbourne says: "He was consulted on every imaginable subject.... +Government chiefs and rebels consulted him with regard to policy; +political letters were brought to him to read and criticise.... Parties +would come to hear the latest news of the proposed disarming of the +country, or to arrange a private audience with one of the officials; and +poor war-worn chieftains, whose only anxiety was to join the winning +side and who wished to consult with Tusitala as to which that might be. +Mr. Stevenson would sigh sometimes as he saw these stately folks +crossing the lawn in single file, their attendants following behind with +presents and baskets, but he never failed to meet or hear them." + +He aided one party of chieftains in prison, and to show their gratitude +on regaining their freedom they cleared and dug a splendid road leading +to his house. All the labor and expense they bore themselves, which +amounted to no small matter. Ala Loto Alofa, they called it, the Road of +the Loving Hearts. + +Warlike outbreaks were not infrequent near Vailima. The woods were often +full of scouting parties and the roll of drums could be heard. One day +as Stevenson and Mrs. Strong were writing together they were interrupted +by a war party crossing the lawn. Mrs. Strong asked: "Louis, have we a +pistol or gun in the house that will shoot?" and he answered cheerfully +without stopping his work: "No, but we have friends on both sides." + +With all their political differences he and the officials retained +friendly feeling. He paid calls on them at Apia and attended various +town gatherings, while they were often entertained at Vailima. + +Always hospitable, it was a delight to him now to keep open house. Not +only the chief justice, the consuls, the doctor, the missionaries, and +the traders were in the habit of dropping in to Vailima, but from every +ship that docked at Apia came some visitor who was anxious to meet +Stevenson and his family; from the war-ships came the officers and +sailors. + +The bluejackets were always particularly welcome. Mrs. Strong tells of a +party who came from H.M.S. _Wallaroo_ on one Thanksgiving Day, when "the +kitchen department was in great excitement over that foreign bird the +turkey" and all was confusion. "But Louis kept his sailors on all the +afternoon. He took them over the house and showed them ... the +curiosities from the islands, the big picture of Skerryvore +lighthouse,... the treasured bit of Gordon's handwriting from Khartoum, +in Arabic letters on a cigarette paper,... and the library, where the +Scotchmen gathered about an old edition of Burns, with a portrait. Louis +gave a volume of Underwoods (Stevenson's poems) with an inscription to +Grant, the one who hailed from Edinburgh, and the man carried it +carefully wrapped in his handkerchief. They went away waving their hats +and keeping step." + +A croquet-ground and tennis-court were laid out, and Vailima was the +scene of balls, dinners, and parties of all kinds. No birthday or +holiday, English, American, or Samoan, was allowed to pass unnoticed, +and the natives were included in these festivities whenever possible. + +The first Christmas at Vailima they had a party for the children who had +never before seen a Christmas tree. + +Tusitala's birthday was always a special event to his island friends. +The feast was served in native style; all seated about on the floor. +Rather large gatherings they must have been, to judge from Mrs. Strong's +account. "We had sixteen pigs roasted whole underground, three enormous +fish (small whales, Lloyd called them), four hundred pounds of beef, +ditto of pork, 200 heads of taro, great bunches of bananas, native +delicacies done up in bundles of _ti_ leaves, 800 pineapples, many +weighing fifteen pounds, all from Lloyd's patch. Among the presents for +Tusitala, besides flowers and wreaths, were fans, native baskets ... and +cocoanut cups beautifully polished." + +[Illustration: A feast of chiefs] + +On these occasions the hosts were often entertained with dances and +songs. All the Samoans are great singers. They composed songs about +everything and everybody, so that one could judge the standing a person +held by the songs that were sung about him. + +Those sung at Vailima parties were usually written by one of the house +"boys" and "they were danced and acted with great spirit.... Sometimes +every member of the family would be represented ... but the central +figure, the heart of the song was always Tusitala." + +It is a marvel with the many demands made upon him, his varied +interests, and frequent visits to neighboring islands, Stevenson still +found time to write stories, poems, prayers, notes of the South Sea +Islands, Samoan history, and many, many letters. "It is a life that +suits me but absorbs me like an ocean," he said. Through it all his +health continued fairly good. He was able to take long tramps and rides +that would have been physically impossible two years before. + +Mrs. Strong acted as his secretary and the majority of his writing now +was done by dictation. "He generally makes notes early in the morning," +she wrote, "which he elaborates as he reads them aloud ... he never +falters for a word, but gives me the sentence with capital letters and +all the stops as clearly and steadily as though he were reading from an +unseen book." + +The two South Sea books occupied much of his time, but it was of his own +land and people so far away that he had so little hope of ever seeing +again, he loved best to write. + +"It is a singular thing," he wrote to James Barrie, "that I should live +here in the South Seas, and yet my imagination so continually inhabit +the cold old huddle of grey hills from which we came." + +He finished and sent away further adventures of David Balfour and Alan +Breck under the title of "David Balfour." "St. Ives" followed with its +scenes laid around Edinburgh Castle, Swanston Cottage, and the Pentland +Hills. In his last book, "Weir of Hermiston," the one he left +unfinished, broken off in the midst of a word, he roamed the streets of +Auld Reekie again with a hero very like what he had once been himself, +who was likewise an enthusiastic member of the "Spec." + +Something which pleased him greatly at this time was the news from his +friend Charles Baxter in Edinburgh that a complete edition of his works +was to be published in the best possible form with a limited number of +copies, to be called the "Edinburgh Edition." + +"I suppose it was your idea to give it that name," Stevenson wrote, +thanking him. "No other would have affected me in the same manner.... +Could a more presumptuous idea have occurred to us in those days when we +used to search our pockets for coppers, too often in vain, and combine +forces to produce the threepence necessary for two glasses of beer, than +that I should be strong and well at the age of forty three in the island +of Upolu, and that you should be at home bringing out the 'Edinburgh +Edition'?" + +In spite of the many interests in his present life, his love for the +people and the country, the yearning for the friends far away grew +daily. + +How he longed to have them see Vailima with all its beauties! To talk +over old times again. Such visits were continually planned, but they +were never realized. + +He seldom complained and those who were with him every day rarely found +him low in spirits. It was into the letters to his old intimates that +these longings crept when it swept over him that, though a voluntary +exile in a pleasant place, he was an exile none the less, with the fate +of him who wrote: + + "There's a track across the deep, + And a path across the sea, + But for me there's nae return + To my ain countree." + +"When the smell of the good wet earth" came to him it came "with a kind +of Highland tone." A tropic shower found him in a "frame of mind and +body that belonged to Scotland." And when he turned to write the +chronicle of his grandfather's life and work, the beautiful words in +which he described the old gentleman's farewell to "Sumbraugh and the +wild crags of Skye" meant likewise his own farewell to those shores. No +more was he to "see the topaz and ruby interchange on the summit of Bell +Rock," no more to see "the castle on its hills," or the venerable city +which he always thought of as his home. + +"Like Leyden," he wrote, "I have gone into a far land to die, not stayed +like Burns to mingle in the end with Scottish soil." + +It was drawing near the close of their fourth year in Apia. On November +13 his birthday had been celebrated with the usual festivities, and on +Thanksgiving Day he had given a dinner to his American friends--and then +the end of all his wanderings and working came suddenly. + +"He wrote hard all that morning of the last day," says Lloyd Osbourne, +"on his half-finished book Hermiston.... In the afternoon the mail fell +to be answered; not business correspondence--but replies to the long, +kindly letters of distant friends, received but two days since, and +still bright in memory. + +"At sunset he came downstairs.... He was helping his wife on the +verandah, and gaily talking, when suddenly he put both hands to his +head, and cried out, 'What's that?' Then he asked quickly, 'Do I look +strange?' Even as he did so he fell on his knees beside her. He was +helped into the great hall, between his wife and body-servant, Sosimo, +losing consciousness instantly, as he lay back in the arm-chair that had +once been his grandfather's. Little time was lost in bringing the +doctors, Anderson of the man-of-war, and his friend Dr. Funk. They +looked at him and shook their heads ... he had passed the bounds of +human skill.... + +"The dozen and more Samoans that formed part of the clan of which he was +chief, sat in a wide semicircle on the floor, their reverent, troubled, +sorrow-stricken faces all fixed upon their dying master. Some knelt on +one knee to be instantly ready for any command that might be laid upon +them.... + +"He died at ten minutes past eight on Monday evening the 3rd of +December, in the forty-fifth year of his age. + +"The great Union Jack that flew over the house was hauled down and laid +over the body, fit shroud for a loyal Scotsman. He lay in the hall which +was ever his pride, where he had passed the gayest and most delightful +hours of his life.... In it were the treasures of his far off Scottish +home.... The Samoans passed in procession beside his bed, kneeling and +kissing his hand, each in turn, before taking their places for the long +night watch beside him. No entreaty could induce them to retire, to +rest themselves for the painful arduous duties of the morrow. It would +show little love for Tusitala, they said, if they did not spend their +last night beside him. Mournful and silent, they sat in deep dejection, +poor, simple, loyal folks, fulfilling the duty that they owed their +chief. + +"A messenger was dispatched to a few chiefs connected with the family, +to announce the tidings and bid them assemble their men on the morrow +for the work there was to do.... + +"The morning of the 4th of December broke cool and sunny.... A meeting +of chiefs was held to apportion the work and divide the men into +parties. Forty were sent with knives and axes to cut a path up the steep +face of the mountain, and the writer himself led another party to the +summit--men chosen from the immediate family--to dig the grave on the +spot where it was Robert Louis Stevenson's wish that he should lie.... +Nothing more picturesque can be imagined than the ledge that forms the +summit to Væa, a place no wider than a room, and flat as a table. On +either side the land descends precipitously; in front lies the vast +ocean and surf-swept reefs; to the right and left green mountains +rise.... + +"All the morning Samoans were arriving with flowers, few of these were +white, for they have not learned our foreign custom, and the room glowed +with the many colors. There were no strangers on that day, no +acquaintances; those only were called who would deeply feel the loss. At +one o'clock a body of powerful Samoans bore away the coffin, hid beneath +a tattered red ensign that had flown above his vessel in many a remote +corner of the South Seas. A path so steep and rugged taxed their +strength to the utmost, for not only was the journey difficult in +itself, but extreme care was requisite to carry the coffin shoulder +high.... + +"No stranger hand touched him.... Those who loved him carried him to his +last home; even the coffin was the work of an old friend. The grave was +dug by his own men." + +Tusitala had left them, and his friends in the South Seas had lost a +faithful friend and companion, a wise and just master. + +His family and friends the world over had lost not only these but far +more. His life had been a chivalrous one with all the best that chivalry +stands for, "loyalty, honesty, generosity, courage, courtesy, and +self-devotion; to impute no unworthy motives and to bear no grudges; to +bear misfortune with cheerfulness and without a murmur; to strike hard +for the right and to take no mean advantage; to be gentle to women and +kind to all that are weak; to be rigorous with oneself and very lenient +to others--these ... were the traits that distinguished Stevenson." + +"They do not make life easy as he frequently found." + +His resting-place on the crest of Væa Mountain is covered by a tomb of +gray stone. On one side is inscribed in English the verses he had +written for his own requiem: + + A ROBERT LOUIS [Symbol: Omega] + 1850 STEVENSON 1894 + + "Under the wide and starry sky, + Dig the grave and let me lie, + Glad did I live and gladly die, + And I laid me down with a will. + + "This be the verse you grave for me: + Here he lies where he longed to be; + Home is the sailor, home from the sea, + And the hunter home from the hill." + +[Illustration: The tomb of Stevenson on Væa Mountain] + +On the other side, written in Samoan and surrounded by carvings of +thistles, his native flowers, and the hibiscus flowers, emblem of the +South, are the words from the Bible: + + "Whither thou goest I will go, and where thou lodgest I will lodge; + thy people shall be my people; and thy God my God; where thou diest + will I die, and there will I be buried." + +The Samoan chiefs have forbidden the use of firearms upon Væa hillside, +"that the birds may live there undisturbed, and raise above his grave +the songs he loved so well." + + "Tusitala, the lover of children, the teller of tales, + Giver of counsels and dreams, a wonder, a world's delight, + Looks o'er the labours of men in the plain and the hills; and the sails + Pass and repass on the sea that he loved, in the day and the night." + + --ANDREW LANG. + + + + +BIBLIOGRAPHY + +SOME WORKS IN RELATION TO STEVENSON'S LIFE, WRITTEN BY HIMSELF AND +OTHERS + + +GENERAL BIOGRAPHY + +Balfour, Graham: "Life of Robert Louis Stevenson." Two vols. + +Colvin, Sidney, ed.: "Letters of Robert Louis Stevenson," with +biographical notes and an introduction by the editor. + +Simpson, E. Blantyre: "The Robert Louis Stevenson Originals." + +Strong, Mrs. Isobel: "Robert Louis Stevenson." + +Watts, Lauchlan Maclean: "Hills of Home"--with Pentland Essays by R.L. +Stevenson. + +Watts: "Robert Louis Stevenson." + + +ANCESTORS + +Stevenson, R.L.: "A Family of Engineers." + +----"Thomas Stevenson"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +Stevenson: "Picturesque Notes on Edinburgh"--In "Essays of Travel and in +the Art of Writing." + +Talbot, F.A.: "Lightships and Lighthouses." Chapters relating to the +building of Bell Rock and Skerryvore. + +Poems by Stevenson: "To My Father." "Skerryvore." + + +CHILDHOOD AND SCHOOL-DAYS + +Stevenson, R.L.: "The Manse"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +----"Penny Plain and Twopence Coloured"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +----"Child's Play"--in "Virginibus Puerisque." + +----"The Lantern Bearers"--in "Across the Plains." + +----"Child's Garden of Verses." + + +THE STUDENT AND WANDERER + +Simpson, E. Blantyre: "Robert Louis Stevenson's Edinburgh Days." + +Stevenson, R.L.: "An Apology for Idlers"--in "Virginibus Puerisque." + +----"Crabbed Age and Youth"--in "Virginibus Puerisque." + +----"Walking Tours"--in "Virginibus Puerisque." + +----"Some College Memories"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +----"Old Mortality"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +----"A College Magazine"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +----"Pastoral"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +----"An Old Scotch Gardener"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +----"Books Which Have Influenced Me"--in "Later Essays." + +----"Memories of an Islet"--in "Memories and Portraits." + +----"Random Memories"--in "Across the Plains." + +----"Memoir of Fleeming Jenkin." + +----"An Inland Voyage." + +----"Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes." + +Low, Will H.: "A Chronicle of Friendships." Chapters dealing with +Stevenson's days in the artists' colonies of Fontainebleau and Paris. + +Poems by Stevenson: "The Vagabond." + "The Song of the Road." + "Bright is the Ring of Words." + "Youth and Love," II. + "The Canoe Speaks." + "A Camp." + "The Country of the Carnisards." + "Our Lady of the Snows." + "To a Gardener." + "To Will H. Low." + "To Andrew Lang." + + +FIRST VISIT TO AMERICA + +Shipman, L.E.: "First Landing in New York"--In _Book Buyer_, vol. 13, p. +13. + +Stevenson, R.L.: "The Amateur Emigrant." + +----"Across the Plains." + +----"The Old Pacific Capital (Monterey)"--in "Across the Plains." + +----"The Silverado Squatters." + + +SCOTLAND AGAIN + +Gosse, Edmund: "Personal Memories of Stevenson"--in _Century_, vol. 28, +p. 447. + +Osbourne, Lloyd: "Stevenson at Play"--in _Scribner's Magazine_, vol. 24, +p. 709. + +Stevenson, Mrs. R.L.: Preface to Biographical edition of "Treasure +Island." + +Stevenson, R.L.: "My First Book, 'Treasure Island'"--in _McClure's +Magazine_, vol. 3, p. 283. + +----"Chapter on Dreams"--in "Across the Plains." + +Stevenson, Mrs. R.L.: Preface to the Biographical edition of "Dr. Jekyll +and Mr. Hyde." + +Poems by Stevenson: "Skerryvore, the Parallel." + "Bells upon the City are Ringing in the Night." + "I Know Not How It Is With You." + "Ticonderoga--a Legend of the West Highlands." + "Heather Ale--a Galloway Legend." + + +SECOND VISIT TO AMERICA + +Low, Will H.: "Chronicle of Friendships." Chapters relating to +Stevenson's second visit to New York and his meeting with General +Sherman and the sculptor, Augustus Saint-Gaudens. + +Saint-Gaudens, Augustus: "Reminiscences of Saint-Gaudens." Chapters +dealing with Mr. Saint-Gaudens's recollections of Stevenson at the time +he made his portrait. + +Stevenson, Mrs. Margaret: "Letters--From Saranac to the Marquesas and +Beyond." + +Poems by Stevenson: "In the States." + "Winter." + + +IN THE SOUTH SEAS + +Stevenson, Mrs. Margaret: "Letters--From Saranac to the Marquesas and +Beyond." + +Stevenson, R.L.: "In the South Seas." + +Stevenson, Mrs. R.L.: "Cruise of the _Janet Nichol_ Among the South Sea +Islands--a Diary." + +Stevenson, R.L.: "Beach of Falesá," "Isle of Voices," "Bottle Imp"--in +"Island Nights' Entertainments." + +----"The Wrecker." + +----"The Ebb Tide." + +---- Letters Dealing with Pacific Voyages and Life in Samoa--in his +collected letters edited by Sidney Colvin. + +Stevenson, Mrs. Margaret: "Letters from Samoa." + +Stevenson, R.L.: "A Foot-Note to History. Eight Years of Trouble in +Samoa." + +Strong, Mrs. Isobel, and Osbourne, Lloyd: "Memories of Vailima." + +Stevenson, R.L.: "Prayers Written at Vailima." + +Poems by Stevenson: "The Song of Rahéro--a Legend of Tahiti." + "The Feast of Famine--Marquesan Manners." + "To an Island Princess." + "To Kalakaua." + "To Princess Kaiulani." + "The House of Tembinoka." + "The Woodman." + "Tropic Rain." + "To My Wife." + "To My Wife" (a fragment). + +Poems of Farewell: "The Morning Drum-Call on My Eager Ear." + "In the Highlands, in the Country Places." + "To My Old Familiars." + "The Tropics Vanish." + "To S.C." + "To S.R. Crockett." + "Evensong." + "We Uncommiserate Pass into the Night." + "I Have Trod the Upward and Downward Slope." + "An End of Travel." + "The Celestial Surgeon." + "Home No More Home to Me, Whither Must I Wander?" + "Farewell, Fair Day and Fading Light." + "Requiem." + +Lang, Andrew: "Tusitala"--in "Later Collected Verses." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Life of Robert Louis Stevenson for +Boys and Girls, by Jacqueline M. 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