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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/15517-8.txt b/15517-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..952eba9 --- /dev/null +++ b/15517-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5770 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets, by John Evelyn + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets + +Author: John Evelyn + +Release Date: April 1, 2005 [EBook #15517] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS *** + + + + +Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + + +[Illustration: Joannes Evelyn Arm^r] + + + + + + +_ACETARIA_ + +A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS + + * * * * * + +By _JOHN EVELYN, Esq._ + +Author of the _Kalendarium_ + + * * * * * + +_BROOKLYN_, + +Published by the _Women's Auxiliary_, + +BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN + +1937 + + + + +_Printed in the United States of America_ + + + + +_Publisher's Note_ + + +This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of +1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and +those noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt +has been made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit +has been retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have +been carefully followed; also the old-style S [s] has been retained. +Much of the flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly; +and one should remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a +man of letters, and if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous, +they are as amusing a conceit as the French and German complacencies of +a more recent generation. + + + + +_Foreword to Acetaria_ + + +John Evelyn, famous for his "Diary," was a friend and contemporary of +Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public servants who had held minor +offices in the government. But, while Pepys' diary is sparkling and +redolent of the free manners of the Restoration, Evelyn's is the record +of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to gardens, to sculpture and +architecture, rather than to the gaieties of contemporary social life. +Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was "county." He represents the +combination of public servant and country gentleman which has been the +supreme achievement of English culture. + +Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I must +observe that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a +course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence." + +Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons +was brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of +Norfolk, was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the +University of Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and +civic affairs and was commissioner for improving the streets and +buildings in London. He had charge of the sick and wounded of the Dutch +War and also, with the fineness of character typical of his kind, he +remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was also active in +organizing the Royal Society and became its first secretary. + +In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing +his own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books, +one of them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener; +instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees." Evelyn +undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "_Les Delices de +la Campagne_." Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons, +consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this +book which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such +as Acetaria. He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The Compleat +Gardener." His "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written as +a protest against the destruction of trees in England being carried +on by the glass factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded +in inducing landowners to plant millions of trees. + +The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject +matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from the Greek, +political and historical pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or the +inconvenience of the Aer and Smoke of London dissipated," in which he +suggests that sweet-smelling trees should be planted to purify the air +of London. He also wrote a book called "Sculpture, or the History of +Chalcography and Engraving in Copper." + +Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn +grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first +advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing +foods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby, +he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic +comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the +little book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth +edition of the "Kalendarium Hortense," a gardener's almanac. + +The material for _Acetaria_ was gathered as early as 1679 with the +idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture. +The _Plan of a Royal Garden_, was Evelyn's outline for that +ambitious work. + +The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical +for today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are +cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for flavoring soups, egg dishes, +"salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet herbs prepared in ramikins +and the pudding flavored with the petals of calendulas are particularly +good. + +The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It +also shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign +of Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit of +scientific investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas. +Evelyn supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to +prepare new dishes. + +Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it +is not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with +a leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse +trotting through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we +read, we can almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the +family assembled around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or +again we can almost smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy +rows in the well-tilled and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn. + +_Helen M. Fox_ + + * * * * * + + + +[Illustration: _Facsimile of Title Page of First Edition_] + + + + * * * * * + + + + +_To the Right Honourable_ + +_JOHN_ + +Lord Somers + +_of Evesham_ + +Lord _High-Chancellor_ of England, + +and _President_ of the _Royal-Society_. + + * * * * * + + +_My Lord_, + +The _Idea_ and _Plan_ of the _Royal-Society_ having been first conceiv'd +and delineated by a _Great_ and _Learned Chancellor_, which High Office +your Lordship deservedly bears; not as an Acquisition of Fortune, but +your Intellectual Endowments; Conspicuous (among other Excellencies) by +the Inclination Your Lordship discovers to promote _Natural Knowledge_: +As it justifies the Discernment of that _Assembly_, to pitch upon Your +Lordship for their _President_, so does it no less discover the Candor, +yea, I presume to say, the Sublimity of your Mind, in so generously +honoring them with your _Acceptance_ of the _Choice_ they have made. + +A [1]_Chancellor_, and a very Learned Lord, was the _First_ who honoured +the _Chair_; and a no less Honorable and Learned _Chancellor_, resigns +it to Your Lordship: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardships +the _Society_ has hitherto gone through; it has thro' the Favour and +Protection of its _Presidents_, not only preserv'd its Reputation from +the Malevolence of Enemies and Detracters, but gone on _Culminating_, +and now _Triumphantly_ in Your Lordship: Under whose propitious +Influence, I am perswaded, it may promise it self _That_, which indeed +has hitherto been wanting, to justifie the Glorious _Title_ it bears of +a ROYAL SOCIETY. The _Emancipating_ it from some Remaining and +Discouraging Circumstances, which it as yet labours under; among which, +that of a _Precarious_ and unsteady Abode, is not the least. + +This _Honor_ was reserv'd for Your Lordship; and an _Honor_, permit +me to call it, not at all unworthy the Owning of the Greatest Person +living: Namely, the Establishing and Promoting _Real Knowledge_; and +(next to what is _Divine_) truly so called; as far, at least, as Humane +Nature extends towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire +beyond the Land of _Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult +Qualities_, and other _Inadequate Notions_; which, by their Obstreperous +and Noisy Disputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men from +adventuring on further Discoveries, confin'd them in a lazy +Acquiescence, and to be fed with _Fantasms_ and fruitless Speculations, +which signifie nothing to the _specifick_ Nature of Things, solid and +useful knowledge; by the _Investigation of Causes, Principles, Energies, +Powers_, and _Effects_ of _Bodies_, and _Things Visible_; and to improve +them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind. + +_My Lord_, That which the _Royal Society_ needs to accomplish an entire +Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumstances more easie) capable to +subsist with Honor, and to reach indeed the Glorious Ends of its +_Institution_, is an Establishment in a more Settl'd, _Appropriate_, +and _Commodious Place_; having hitherto (like the _Tabernacle_ in the +_Wilderness_) been only _Ambulatory_ for almost _Forty Years_: But +_Solomon_ built the First _Temple_; and what forbids us to hope, that as +Great a _Prince_ may build _Solomon's House_, as that Great _Chancellor_ +(one of Your Lordship's Learned _Predecessors_) had design'd the _Plan_; +there being nothing in that _August_ and _Noble Model_ impossible, or +beyond the _Power_ of _Nature_ and Learned Industry. + +Thus, whilst King _Solomon's_ Temple was _Consecrated_ to the _God_ +of _Nature_, and his true Worship; _This_ may be _Dedicated_, and set +apart for the _Works_ of _Nature_; deliver'd from those Illusions and +Impostors, that are still endeavouring to cloud and depress the True, +and _Substantial Philosophy_: A _shallow_ and _Superficial Insight_, +wherein (as that Incomparable Person rightly observes) having made so +many _Atheists_: whilst a _profound_ and thorow _Penetration_ into her +_Recesses_ (which is the _Business_ of the _Royal Society_) would lead +Men to the _Knowledge_, and _Admiration_ of the _Glorious Author_. + +And now, _My Lord_, I expect some will wonder what my Meaning is, to +usher in a _Trifle_, with so much Magnificence, and end at last in a +fine _Receipt_ for the _Dressing_ of a _Sallet_ with an Handful of +_Pot-Herbs_! But yet, _My Lord_, this _Subject_, as low and despicable +as it appears, challenges a Part of _Natural History_, and the Greatest +Princes have thought it no Disgrace, not only to make it their +_Diversion_, but their _Care_, and to promote and encourage it in the +midst of their weightiest Affairs: He who wrote of the _Cedar_ of +_Libanus_, wrote also of the _Hysop which grows upon the Wall_. + +To verifie this, how much might I say of _Gardens_ and _Rural +Employments_, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular +Business, and that in the Estimate of as Great Men as any Age has +produc'd! And it is of such _Great Souls_ we have it recorded; That +after they had perform'd the Noblest Exploits for the Publick, they +sometimes chang'd their _Scepters_ for the _Spade_, and their _Purple_ +for the Gardiner's _Apron_. And of these, some, My _Lord_, were +_Emperors, Kings, Consuls, Dictators_, and Wise _Statesmen_; who amidst +the most important Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all +their Pomp and Dignity in Exchange of this Learned Pleasure: Nor that +of the most _refin'd_ Part of _Agriculture_ (the _Philosophy_ of the +_Garden_ and _Parterre_ only) but of _Herbs_, and wholesom _Sallets_, +and other plain and useful Parts of _Geoponicks_, and Wrote _Books_ of +_Tillage_ and _Husbandry_; and took the _Plough-Tackle_ for their +_Banner_, and their _Names_ from the _Grain_ and _Pulse_ they sow'd, +as the Marks and Characters of the highest Honor. + +But I proceed no farther on a _Topic_ so well known to Your Lordship: +Nor urge I Examples of such Illustrious Persons laying aside their +Grandeur, and even of deserting their Stations; (which would infinitely +prejudice the Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm) +But to shew how consisent the Diversions of the _Garden_ and _Villa_ +were, with the highest and busiest Employment of the _Commonwealth_, and +never thought a Reproch, or the least Diminution to the Gravity and +Veneration due to their Persons, and the Noble Rank they held. + +Will Your Lordship give me Leave to repeat what is said of the Younger +_Pliny_, (Nephew to the _Naturalist_) and whom I think we may parallel +with the Greatest of his time (and perhaps of any since) under the +Worthiest _Emperor_ the _Roman_ world ever had? A Person of vast +Abilities, Rich, and High in his Master's Favour; that so Husbanded his +time, as in the Midst of the weightiest Affairs, to have Answer'd, and +by his [2]_Example_, made good what I have said on this Occasion. The +Ancient and best Magistrates of _Rome_ allow'd but the _Ninth_ Day for +the _City_ and _Publick Business_; the rest for the _Country_ and the +_Sallet Garden_: There were then fewer _Causes_ indeed at the _Bar_; +but never greater _Justice_, nor _better Judges_ and _Advocates_. And +'tis hence observed, that we hardly find a Great and Wise Man among +the Ancients, _qui nullos habuit hortos_, excepting only _Pomponius +Atticus_; wilst his Dear _Cicero_ professes, that he never laid out his +Money more readily, than in the purchasing of _Gardens_, and those sweet +Retirements, for which he so often left the _Rostra_ (and Court of the +Greatest and most flourishing State of the World) to visit, prune, and +water them with his own Hands. + +But, _My Lord_, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a _Gardiner_ +ought not to be so bold. The present I humbly make your Lordship, is +indeed but a _Sallet_ of _Crude Herbs_: But there is among them that +which was a _Prize_ at the _Isthmian Games_; and Your Lordship knows +who it was both accepted, and rewarded as despicable an Oblation of +this kind. The Favor I humbly beg, is Your Lordship's Pardon for this +Presumption. The Subject is _mean_, and requires it, and my _Reputation_ +in danger; should Your Lordship hence suspect that one could never write +so much of _dressing Sallets_, who minded anything serious, besides the +gratifying a Sensual Appetite with a Voluptuary _Apician_ Art. + +Truly, _My Lord_, I am so far from designing to promote those _Supplicia +Luxuriæ_, (as _Seneca_ calls them) by what I have here written; that +were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if not altogether to +their Pristine _Diet_, yet to a much more _wholsome_ and _temperate_ +than is now in Fashion: And what if they find me like to some who are +eager after _Hunting_ and other Field-Sports, which are _Laborious_ +Exercises? and _Fishing_, which is indeed a _Lazy_ one? who, after all +their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either: +For some such I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm so of my self, +(when a well drest and excellent _Sallet_ is before me) I am yet a very +moderate Eater of them. So as to this _Book-Luxury_, I can affirm, and +that truly what the _Poet_ says of himself (on a less innocent Occasion) +_Lasciva pagina, vita proba._ God forbid, that after all I have advanc'd +in Praise of _Sallets_, I should be thought to plead for the Vice I +censure, and chuse that of _Epicurus_ for my _Lemma_; _In hac arte +consenui_; or to have spent my time in nothing else. The _Plan_ annext +to these Papers, and the _Apparatus_ made to superstruct upon it, would +acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on _Sallets_ only. What +I humbly offer Your Lordship, is (as I said) Part of _Natural History_, +the Product of _Horticulture_, and the _Field_, dignified by the most +illustrious, and sometimes tilled _Laureato Vomere_; which, as it +concerns a Part of _Philosophy_, I may (without Vanity) be allow'd to +have taken some Pains in Cultivating, as an inferior Member of the +_Royal Society_. + +But, _My Lord_, wilst You read on (if at least You vouchsafe me that +Honor to read at all) I am conscious I rob the Publick of its most +Precious Moments. + +I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordship's Pardon: Nor indeed +needed I to have said half this, to kindle in Your Breast, that which is +already shining there (Your Lordship's Esteem of the _Royal Society_) +after what You were pleas'd to Express in such an Obliging manner, when +it was lately to wait upon Your Lordship; among whom I had the Honor +to be a Witness of Your Generous, and Favourable Acceptance of their +Addresses, who am, + +_My Lord, + Your Lordship's Most Humble + and Most Obedient Servant, + + JOHN EVELYN_. + + + * * * * * + + + + +THE PREFACE + + +The _Favourable Entertainment which the_ Kalendar _has found, +encouraging the_ Bookseller _to adventure upon_ a Ninth Impression, I +_could not refuse his Request of my Revising, and Giving it the best +Improvement I was capable_, to an Inexhaustible Subject, _as it regards +a Part of_ Horticulture; _and offer some little Aid to such as love a +Diversion so Innocent and Laudable. There are those of late, who have +arrogated, and given the Glorious Title_ of Compleat _and_ Accomplish'd +Gardiners, _to what they have Publish'd; as if there were nothing +wanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected from the +Field; and that_ Nature _had been quite emptied of all her fertile +Store: Whilst those who thus magnifie their Discoveries, have after +all, penetrated but a very little Way into this Vast, Ample, and as +yet, Unknown Territory; Who see not, that it would still require the +Revolution of many Ages; deep, and long_ Experience, _for any Man to +Emerge that Perfect, and Accomplish'd Artist_ Gardiner _they boast +themselves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and far +extended Limits of the_ Vegetable Kingdom, _so incomprehensible is the +Variety it every Day produces, of the most Useful, and Admirable of all +the Aspectable Works of God; since almost all we_ see, _and_ touch, +_and_ taste, _and_ smell, eat _and_ drink, are clad _with, and_ defended +(_from the Greatest_ Prince _to the Meanest_ Peasant) _is furnished from +that Great and Universal Plantation_, Epitomiz'd _in our_ Gardens, +_highly worth the Contemplation of the most Profound Divine, and +Deepest_ Philosopher. + +_I should be asham'd to acknowledge how little I have advanced, could +I find that ever any Mortal Man from_ Adam, Noah, Solomon, Aristotle, +Theophrastus, Dioscorides, _and the rest of Nature's Interpreters, had +ever arriv'd to the perfect Knowledge of any one_ Plant, _or_ Vulgar +Weed _whatsoever: But this perhaps may yet possibly be reserv'd for +another State of Things, and a_ [3]_longer Day; that is_, When Time +shall be no more, but Knowledge shall be encreas'd. + +_We have heard of one who studied and contemplated the Nature of_ +Bees _only, for_ Sixty Years: _After which, you will not wonder, +that a Person of my Acquaintance, should have spent almost_ Forty, +_in Gathering and Amassing Materials for an_ Hortulan _Design, to +so enormous an Heap, as to fill some_ Thousand Pages; _and yet be +comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, within the +Square of less than_ One (_skilfully Planted and Cultivated) sufficient +to furnish, and entertain his Time and Thoughts all his Life long, with +a most Innocent, Agreeable, and Useful Employment. But you may justly +wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it too, with that Reproach_, This Man +began to build, but was not able to finish! _This has been the Fate of +that Undertaking; and I dare promise, will be of whosoever imagines +(without the Circumstances of extraordinary Assistance, and no ordinary +Expence) to pursue the_ Plan, _erect, and finish the_ Fabrick _as it +ought to be_. + +_But this is that which_ Abortives _the Perfection of the most Glorious +and Useful Undertakings; the Unsatiable Coveting to Exhaust all that +should, or can be said upon every Head: If such a one have any thing +else to mind, or do in the World, let me tell him, he thinks of Building +too late; and rarely find we any, who care to superstruct upon the +Foundation of another, and whose_ Ideas _are alike. There ought +therefore to be as many_ Hands, _and_ Subsidiaries _to such a Design_ +(_and those_ Matters _too_) _as there are distinct Parts of the Whole +(according to the subsequent Table) that those who have the Means and +Courage, may_ (_tho' they do not undertake the_ Whole) _finish a_ Part +_at least, and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat, +and Consummate Work indeed_. + +_Of_ One _or_ Two _of these_, I _attempted only a_ Specimen _in my_ +SILVA _and the_ KALENDAR; Imperfect, _I say, because they are both +capable of Great Improvements: It is not therefore to be expected_ +(_Let me use the Words of an Old, and Experienced_ Gardiner) Cuncta +me dicturum, quae vastitas ejus scientiæ contineret, sed plurima; nam +illud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque est ulla +Disciplina aut Ars, quæ singulari consummata sit ingenio. + +_May it then suffice_ aliquam partem tradidisse, _and that I have done +my Endeavour_. + + ... Jurtilis olim + Ne Videar vixisse. + + +_Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean, +concerning_ Gardening:) _But this is not a Place to Expatiate, deterr'd, +as I have long since been, from so bold an Enterprize, as the Fabrick +I mentioned. I content my self then with an_ Humble Cottage, _and a +Simple_ Potagere, _Appendant to the_ Calendar; _which, Treating only +(and that briefly) of the_ Culture _of_ Moderate Gardens; _Nothing +seems to me, shou'd be more_ Welcome _and_ Agreeable, _than whilst the +Product of them is come into more_ Request _and_ Use _amongst us, than +heretofore (beside what we call, and distinguish by the Name of_ Fruit) +_I did annex some particular Directions concerning_ S A L L E T S. + + + * * * * * + + + + +_THE_ + + PLAN + +_OF A_ + +_ROYAL GARDEN:_ + + +Describing, and Shewing the _Amplitude_, and _Extent_ of that Part of +_Georgicks_, which belongs to _Horticulture_. + + + * * * * * + +In Three Books + + * * * * * + + +_BOOK I_. + + +_Chap. I_. Of _Principles and Elements_ in general. + +_Chap. II_. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; _Fire, Air, Water; +Earth_. + +_Chap. III_. Of the Celestial _Influences_, and particularly of the +_Sun, Moon_, and of the _Climates_. + +_Chap. IV_. Of the Four _Annual Seasons_. + +_Chap. V_. Of the Natural _Mould_ and _Soil_ of a Garden. + +_Chap. VI_. Of _Composts_, and _Stercoration, Repastination, Dressing_ +and _Stirring_ the _Earth_ and _Mould_ of a Garden. + + +_BOOK II_. + + +_Chap. I_. A Garden _Derived_ and _Defin'd;_ its _Dignity, Distinction_, +and _Sorts_. + +_Chap. II_. Of a _Gardiner_, how to be _qualify 'd, regarded_ and +_rewarded_; his _Habitation, Cloathing, Diet_, Under-_Workmen_ and +_Assistants_. + +_Chap. III_. Of the _Instruments_ belonging to a Gardiner; their various +_Uses_, and _Machanical_ Powers. + +_Chap. IV_. Of the _Terms_ us'd, and affected by Gardiners. + +_Chap. V_. Of _Enclosing, Fencing, Plotting_, and disposing of the +Ground; and of _Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, &c._ + +_Chap. VI_. Of a _Seminary, Nurseries_; and of Propagating _Trees, +Plants_ and _Flowers, Planting_ and _Transplanting, &c._ + +_Chap. VII_. Of _Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks_ and +_Embossments_. + +_Chap. VIII_. Of _Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles, +Close-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns_, and other +_Relievo's_; of _Topiary_ and _Hortulan Architecture_. + +_Chap. IX_. Of _Fountains, Jetto's, Cascades, Rivulets, Piscinas, +Canals, Baths_, and other Natural, and Artificial _Water-works_. + +_Chap. X_. Of _Rocks, Grotts, Cryptæ, Mounts, Precipices, Ventiducts, +Conservatories_, of _Ice_ and _Snow_, and other Hortulan Refreshments. + +_Chap. XI_. Of _Statues, Busts, Obelisks, Columns, Inscriptions, Dials, +Vasa's, Perspectives, Paintings_, and other Ornaments. + +_Chap. XII_. Of _Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres_, Artificial _Echo's, +Automata_ and _Hydraulic Musck_. + +_Chap. XIII_. Of _Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Insects, &c._ + +_Chap. XIV_. Of _Verdures, Perennial Greens_, and _Perpetual Springs_. + +_Chap. XV_. Of _Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves_, and +Conservatories of Tender _Plants_ and _Fruits_, and how to order them. + +_Chap. XVI_. Of the _Coronary_ Garden: _Flowers_ and _Rare Plants_, how +they are to be _Raised, Governed_ and _Improved_; and how the Gardiner +_is_ to keep his _Register_. + +_Chap. XVII_. Of the _Philosophical Medical_ Garden. + +_Chap. XVIII_. Of _Stupendous_ and _Wonderful_ _Plants_. + +_Chap. XIX_. Of the _Hort-Yard_ and _Potagere_; and what _Fruit-Trees, +Olitory_ and _Esculent_ _Plants_, may be admitted into a Garden of +Pleasure. + +_Chap. XX_. Of _Sallets_. + +_Chap. XXI_. Of a _Vineyard_, and Directions concerning the making of +_Wine_ and other _Vinous_ Liquors, and of _Teas_. + +_Chap. XXII_. Of _Watering, Pruning, Plashing, Pallisading, Nailing, +Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleansing, &c._ + +_Chap. XXIII_. Of the _Enemies_ and _Infirmities_ to which Gardens are +obnoxious, together with _Remedies_. + +_Chap. XXIV_. Of the Gardiner's _Almanack_ or _Kalendarium Hortense_, +directing what he is to do Monthly, and what _Fruits_ and _Flowers_ are +in prime. + + +_BOOK III_. + + +_Chap. I_. Of _Conserving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying, +Transmuting_, and Altering the + +_Species, Forms_, and (reputed) _Substantial Qualities_ of _Plants, +Fruits_ and _Flowers_. + +_Chap. II_. Of the Hortulan _Elaboratory_; and of _distilling_ and +_extracting_ of _Waters, Spirits, Essences, Salts, Colours_, +Resuscitation of _Plants_, with other rare Experiments, and an Account +of their _Virtues_. + +_Chap. III_. Of Composing the _Hortus Hyemalis_, and making Books, of +_Natural, Arid Plants_ and _Flowers_, with several Ways of Preserving +them in their _Beauty_. + +_Chap. IV_. Of _Painting_ of Flowers, Flowers _enamell'd, Silk, +Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Pasts, Horns, Glass, Shells, Feathers, +Moss, Pietra Comessa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings_, and other +Artificial Representations of them. + +_Chap. V_. Of _Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Festoons, Encarpa, +Flower-Pots, Nosegays, Poeses, Deckings_, and other Flowery _Pomps_. + +_Chap. VI_. Of _Hortulan Laws_ and _Privileges_. + +_Chap. VII_. Of the _Hortulan Study_, and of a _Library, Authors_ and +_Books_ assistant to it. + +_Chap. VIII_. Of _Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral_, and +_Political_; with divers _Historical_ Passages, and Solemnities, to shew +the _Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight_, and Universal Use of +Gardens. + +_Chap. IX_. Of Garden _Burial_. + +_Chap. X_. Of _Paradise_, and of the most _Famous Gardens_ in the World, +_Ancient_ and _Modern_. + +_Chap. XI_. The Description of a _Villa_. + +_Chap. XII_. The _Corollary_ and _Conclusion_. + + ----_Laudato ingentia rura_, + _Exiguum colito_.---- + + + * * * * * + + +[Illustration] + + + + +ACETARIA: + +A Discourse of Sallets + + * * * * * + + +Sallets in general consist of certain _Esculent_ Plants and Herbs, +improv'd by Culture, Industry, and Art of the _Gard'ner_: Or, as others +say, they are a Composition of _Edule_ Plants and Roots of several +kinds, to be eaten _Raw_ or _Green, Blanch'd_ or _Candied_: simple--and +_per se_, or intermingl'd with others according to the Season. The +Boil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwise disguis'd, variously accommodated +by the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine +Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, _&c._ challenge not the name of +_Sallet_ so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore, + +Those who _Criticize_ not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguish +the [4]_Olera_ (which were never eaten _Raw_) from _Acetaria_, which +were never _Boil'd;_ and so they derive the Etymology of _Olus_, from +_Olla, the Pot_. But others deduce it from [Greek: Olos], comprehending +the _Universal Genus_ of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from [Greek: Pan] +_Panis;_ esteeming that he who had [5]_Bread_ and _Herbs_, was +sufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire: Others +again will have it, _ab Olendo_, i.e. _Crescendo_, from its continual +_growth and springing up_: So the younger _Scaliger_ on _Varro_: But his +Father _Julius_ extends it not so generally to all Plants, as to all +the _Esculents_, according to the Text: _We call those_ Olera (says +[6]_Theophrastus) which are commonly eaten_, in which sense it may be +taken, to include both _Boil'd_ and _Raw_: Last of all, _ab Alendo_, +as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the +[7]Creation. + +A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the +_Cumini Sectores_, and impertinently Curious; whilst as it concerns +the business in hand, we are by _Sallet_ to understand a particular +Composition of certain _Crude_ and fresh Herbs, such as usually are, +or may safely be eaten with some _Acetous_ Juice, _Oyl, Salt_, &c. to +give them a grateful Gust and _Vehicle_; exclusive of the [8][Greek: +psuchrai trapezai], eaten without their due Correctives, which the +Learned [9]_Salmasius_, and, indeed generally, the [10]old _Physicians_ +affirm (and that truly) all _Crude_ and raw [Greek: lachana] require +to render them wholsome; so as probably they were from hence, as +[11]_Pliny_ thinks, call'd _Acetaria_: and not (as _Hermolaus_ and +some others) _Acceptaria ab Accipiendo_; nor from Accedere, though so +[12]ready at hand, and easily dress'd; requiring neither _Fire, Cost_, +or _Attendance_, to boil, roast, and prepare them as did Flesh, and +other Provisions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always +in use, _&c._ And hence indeed the more frugal _Italians_ and _French_, +to this Day, gather _Ogni Verdura_, any thing almost that's _Green_ +and Tender, to the very Tops of _Nettles_; so as every Hedge affords +a _Sallet_ (not unagreeable) season'd with its proper _Oxybaphon_ of +_Vinegar, Salt, Oyl_, &c. which doubtless gives it both the Relish +and Name of _Salad, Emsalada_[13], as with us of _Sallet_; from the +_Sapidity_, which renders not _Plants_ and _Herbs_ alone, but _Men_ +themselves, and their Conversations, pleasant and agreeable: But of +this enough, and perhaps too much; least whilst I write of _Salt_ and +_Sallet_, I appear my self _Insipid_: I pass therefore to the +Ingredients, which we will call + + +Furniture _and_ Materials + + +The _Materials_ of _Sallets_, which together with the grosser _Olera_, +consist of _Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers_, &c. _Fruits_ +(belonging to another Class) would require a much ampler Volume, than +would suit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an _Appendix_ +only) should we extend the following _Catalogue_ further than to a brief +enumeration only of such _Herbaceous_ Plants, _Oluscula_ and smaller +_Esculents_, as are chiefly us'd in _Cold Sallets_, of whose Culture we +have treated there; and as we gather them from the _Mother_ and _Genial +Bed_, with a touch only of their _Qualities_, for Reasons hereafter +given. + + +1. Alexanders, _Hipposelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare_ (much of the +nature of _Persly_) is moderately hot, and of a cleansing Faculty, +Deobstructing, nourishing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle fresh +Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be chosen, and the Stalks eaten in the +Spring; and when _Blanch'd_, in Winter likewise, with _Oyl, Pepper, +Salt_, &c. by themselves, or in Composition: They make also an excellent +_Vernal_ Pottage. + + +2. Artichaux, _Cinara_, (_Carduus Sativus_) hot and dry. The Heads being +slit in quarters first eaten raw, with _Oyl_, a little _Vinegar, Salt_, +and _Pepper_, gratefully recommend a Glass of _Wine_; Dr. _Muffet_ says, +at the end of Meals. + +They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh _Butter_ +crisp with _Persley_. But then become a most delicate and excellent +Restorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The +_Bottoms_ are also bak'd in _Pies_, with _Marrow, Dates_, and other rich +Ingredients: In _Italy_ they sometimes broil them, and as the Scaly +Leaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet _Oyl_; but with Care +extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that +hazard escap'd, they eat them with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_. + +The Stalk is _Blanch'd_ in Autumn, and the _Pith_ eaten raw or boil'd. +The way of preserving them fresh all Winter, is by separating the +_Bottoms_ from the _Leaves_, and after Parboiling, allowing to every +_Bottom_, a small earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in fresh +melted _Butter_, as they do Wild-Fowl, _&c._ Or if more than one, in +a larger Pot, in the same Bed and Covering, _Layer_ upon _Layer_. + +They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper +being put between every _Bottom_, to hinder them from touching one +another, and so hung up in a dry place. They are likewise _Pickl'd_. + +'Tis not very long since this noble _Thistle_ came first into _Italy_, +Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and so rare in _England_, that +they were commonly sold for _Crowns_ a piece: But what _Carthage_ yearly +spent in them (as _Pliny_ computes the Sum) amounted to _Sestertia Sena +Millia_, 30000 _l. Sterling_. + +_Note_, That the _Spanish Cardon_, a wild and smaller _Artichoak_, with +sharp pointed Leaves, and lesser Head; the Stalks being _Blanch'd_ and +tender, are serv'd-up _a la Poiverade_ (that is with _Oyl, Pepper_, &c.) +as the _French_ term is. + + +3. Basil, _Ocimum_ (as _Baulm_) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not too +strong, somewhat offensive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Tops +to be very sparingly us'd in our _Sallet_. + + +4. Baulm, _Melissa, Baum_, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating, +sovereign for the Brain, strengthning the Memory, and powerfully chasing +away _Melancholy_. The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with other +Herbs; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd, put into _Wine_ or other Drinks, +during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickness: This noble +Plant yields an incomparable _Wine_, made as is that of _Cowslip_-Flowers. + + +5. Beet, _Beta_; of which there is both _Red, Black_, and _White_: The +_Costa_, or Rib of the _White Beet_ (by the _French_ call'd the _Chard_) +being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the _Roots_ (especially +of the _Red_) cut into thin slices, boil'd, when cold, is of it self a +grateful winter _Sallet_; or being mingl'd with other _Oluscula, Oyl, +Vinegar, Salt_, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moist, and naturally +somewhat _Laxative_: But however by the _Epigrammatist_ stil'd +_Foolish_ and _Insipid, as Innocentior quam Olus_ (for so the Learned +[14]_Harduin_ reads the place) 'tis by _Diphilus_ of old, and others +since, preferr'd before _Cabbage_ as of better Nourishment: _Martial_ +(not unlearn'd in the Art of _Sallet_) commends it with _Wine_ and +_Pepper_: He names it indeed--_Fabrorum prandia_, for its being so +vulgar. But eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, as usually, it is no +despicable _Sallet_. There is a _Beet_ growing near the Sea, which is +the most delicate of all. The Roots of the _Red Beet_, pared into thin +Slices and Circles, are by the _French_ and _Italians_ contriv'd into +curious Figures to adorn their _Sallets_. + + +_6_. Blite, _Blitum_; English _Mercury_, or (as our Country House wives +call it) _All-good_, the gentle _Turiones_, and Tops may be eaten as +_Sparagus_, or sodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, much +us'd in _Spain_ and _Italy_; but besides its humidity and detersive +Nature, 'tis _Insipid_ enough. + + +7. Borrage, _Borrago_ (_Gaudia semper ago_) hot and kindly moist, +purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleasant Flavour: +The tender Leaves, and Flowers especially, may be eaten in Composition; +but above all, the Sprigs in _Wine_, like those of _Baum_, are of known +Vertue to revive the _Hypochondriac_, and chear the hard Student. See +_Bugloss_. + + +8. Brooklime, _Anagallis aquatica_; moderately hot and moist, prevalent +in the _Scorbute_, and _Stone_. + + +9. Bugloss, _Buglossum_; in mature much like _Borrage_, yet something +more astringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatly +restorative, being Conserv'd: And for the rest, so much commended by +_Averroes_; that for its effects, cherishing the Spirits, justly call'd +_Euphrosynum_; Nay, some will have it the _Nepenthes_ of _Homer_: But +indeed, what we now call _Bugloss_, was not that of the Ancients, but +rather _Borrage_, for the like Virtue named _Corrago_. + + +Burnet, See _Pimpinella_. + + +10. Buds, _Gemmæ, Turiones_; the first Rudiments and Tops of most +_Sallet_-Plants, preferrable to all other less tender Parts; such as +_Ashen-Keys, Broom-buds_, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of _Capers_, +esteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent against the _Spleen_ and +_Scurvy_; and being _Pickl'd_, are sprinkl'd among the _Sallets_, or +eaten by themselves. + + +11. Cabbage, _Brassica_ (and its several kinds) _Pompey's_ beloved Dish, +so highly celebrated by old [15]_Cato_, _Pythagoras_, and _Chrysippus_ +the Physician (as the only _Panacea_) is not so generally magnify'd +by the rest of Doctors, as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice; +yet _Loosening_ if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, _Astringent_, +according to _C. Celsus_; and therefore seldom eaten raw, excepting +by the _Dutch_. The _Cymæ_, or Sprouts rather of the _Cole_ are very +delicate, so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. In +raising this _Plant_ great care is to be had of the Seed. The best comes +from _Denmark_ and _Russia_, especially the _Cauly-flower_, (anciently +unknown) or from _Aleppo_. Of the _French_, the _Pancaliere a la large +Costé_, the white, large and ponderous are to be chosen; and so the +_Cauly-flower_: After boiling some steep them in Milk, and seethe them +again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little _Nitre_. The _Broccoli_ +from _Naples_, perhaps the _Halmyridia_ of _Pliny_ (or _Athenæus_ +rather) _Capiata marina_ & _florida_, our _Sea-keele_ (the ancient +_Crambe_) and growing on our Coast, are very delicate, as are the +_Savoys_, commended for being not so rank, but agreeable to most +_Palates_, and of better Nourishment: In general, _Cabbages_ are thought +to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have them +noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the _Cauly-flower_ rather: But +whilst the Learned are not agreed about it, _Theophrastus_ affirms the +contrary, and _Pliny_ commends the Juice raw, with a little _Honey_, for +the moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, _Cabbage_ +('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach, +and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we +read the Ancients had for them, calling them _Divine_, and Swearing, +_per Brassicam_. 'Tis scarce an hundred Years since we first had +_Cabbages_ out of _Holland_. Sir _Anth. Ashley_ of _Wiburg St. Giles_ +in _Dorsetshire_, being (as I am told) the first who planted them in +_England_. + + +12. Cardon, See _Artichaux_. + + +13. Carrots, _Dauci_, or _Pastinaca Sativa_; temperately warm and dry, +Spicy; the best are yellow, very nourishing; let them be rais'd in +Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy. + + +14. Chervile, _Chærophyllum, Myrrhis_; The sweet aromatick _Spanish +Chervile_, moderately hot and dry: The tender _Cimæ_, and Tops, with +other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our _Sallets_, (as long as they +may be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The +_Roots_ are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons: +This (as likewise _Spinach_) is us'd in _Tarts_, and serves alone for +divers Sauces. + + + Cibbols. \ + Cives. / Vide Onions, _Schoenopræsson_. + + +15. Clary, _Horminum_, when tender not to be rejected, and in _Omlets_, +made up with _Cream_, fried in sweet _Butter_, are eaten with _Sugar_, +Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_. + + +16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_, +are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages. + + +17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Tops +and Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with other +Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ call +them _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_. + + +18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_. + + +19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: But +above all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the +torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect against +the _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_, +and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_ +being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the +_Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_, +proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees, +and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little. + + +20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved +_Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpen +the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c._ if rightly prepar'd; that +is, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice, +in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_, +too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste from +a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in +thin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity, +macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others +prepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress them +with very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of +_Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (and +indeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retaining +their Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothing +remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the +_Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and +_Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth is +greatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without the +least damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since +_Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being +accounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that in +the _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it a +raw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd in +White-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriated +with the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter. + + +21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_ +are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Spring +till _June_. + + +22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters, +to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, and +little inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-People +eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife +_Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_. + + +23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho' +otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_, +are excellent for the _Scorbute_. + + +Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near +_Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by +Rustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots, +or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing. + + +24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful both +to the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho' +the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in +_Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most +sovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently +wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_. + + +25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, and +tenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold, +profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructions +of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in +Composition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent being +boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, and +the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_. + + +Eschalot. See _Onions_. + + +26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick, +hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain; +especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be +peel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts and +Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_, +and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into +Composition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call +_Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, which +sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out, +as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_. + + +27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ and +Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their +_Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alone +in their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_, +sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'd +in _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange, +Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some of +them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome +_Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c. + + +28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_ +and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with +almost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to help +Conception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (by +which it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yet +think it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in +_Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst we +absolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of its +intolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that the +eating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as had +committed the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats, +nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the +Dish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler +_Roccombo_. + +_Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its +fierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_. + + +Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_. + + +29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in +_Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast, +and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_. + + +30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for +_Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eaten +raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: They +are _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions. + + +31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran, +Mary-gold_, &c. as all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in +_Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalent +against Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Names +of _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, than +the tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, are +by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; +communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy. + + +32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many Medicinal +Properties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by Country +People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges. + + +33. Leeks, and _Cibbols, Porrum_; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since +_Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eat +them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to +the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender +and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See +_Onion_. + + +34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_, +(to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of +its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principal +Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and +Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem +with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and +enobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_. + +It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet +less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in +Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites +Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates +Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals, +_Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was) +from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the +most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients +called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great +[20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness +to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to +this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor +[21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other +Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to +say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_. +How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells +himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and +concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In +a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_ +store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome +to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual +_Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not +so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_, +or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported +to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture +of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our +Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly +Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_; +for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of +_Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, +Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all +the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or +_Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf, +Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of +the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that +besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest, +there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up +to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and +indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant +_Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd +from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and +taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally +to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of. + + +35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_, +&c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or +bitter. See _Orange_. + + +36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the +_Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, +be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by +the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvæ folium +Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_ +and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table: +The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvæ salubres corpori_, +approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_, +by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than +_Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_, +that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but +by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_, +tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with +_Butter_. + + +Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See +_Blitum_. + + +37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho' +an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy +and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and +well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the +noblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think +our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet +under the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially they +were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for +_Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours. + +There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly +Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they +drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all +dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been +accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten +in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as +harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with +_Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with +a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to +commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely +cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo. +Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary +_Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe +Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are +very delicate. + + +38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and +warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, +and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the +_Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone +(as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little +_Sugar_. + + +39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terræ_, by _Porphyry +Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_ +Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French, +Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as +some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten +crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to +order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the +very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable +only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen, +they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally +reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without +cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest +Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole +Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Cæsarian +Tables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Brôma theôn], a Dainty fit for +the _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they +have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_ +deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annæus Serenus_, and +several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the +same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of +this suspicious Dainty) _Quæ voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who +indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats +_Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his +Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution, +[Greek: Barê pnigoenta mukêtôn], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenæus_ +reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three +Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient +warning. + +Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about +_London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we +send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_, +and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl, +and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_ +purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell, +and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord +_Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and +doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these +rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves +insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or +_Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down. +But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage +none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all +concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and +referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other +_Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr. +_Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and +corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in +deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less +pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich, +airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of +about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round +and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated +in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or +Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce, +they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their +Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed +_Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tells +us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and +compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle +it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in +_France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat is +in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings +and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three +Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other +Experiments. + + +40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the +Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of +_Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to +quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling +heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable +_Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aids +Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the +most noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw +_Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In +_Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with +the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter. + + +_Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_. + + +41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the +Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some +eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other +Herbs. + +42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of +_Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd +eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. +Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own +them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd, +they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut +Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to +offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration. +In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable +only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some +commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in +Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold +_Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and +_Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of +_Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or +two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing +the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they +frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only +season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man, +with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented +Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in +[37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the +_Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_ +among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as +whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were +ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them. +Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as +a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which +some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so +highly magnify them. + + +43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set +over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than +their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender +Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in +Pottage. See _Blitum_. + + +44. Orange, _Arantiæ_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling, +and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists +Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_ +being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute, +cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best +_succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and +_Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the +Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which +impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon. + + +45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it +self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having +something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the +_Turnep_. + + +46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning +to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_, +enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_. + + +47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd +Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic +Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for +being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such +as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our +_Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) +to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently +adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of +promoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires the +Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only. + +_Indian Capsicum_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the +_Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usual +Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much +more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and +Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable +in our _Sallet_. + +Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become +sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar +to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermented +with a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut +long-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time, +till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it +through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar +_Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very +clean, after having beaten _Indian Capsicum_, before you stamp any thing +in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_, +dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do +_Myrtle-berries_. + + +48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry, +opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_ +in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than +_Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decocted +on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be +admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at +all, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, there +being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_, +we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtful +to the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_. + + +49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, is +our common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so +generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tis +pass'd into a Proverb: + + _L'Insalata non è buon, ne bella_ + _Ove non è la Pimpinella_. + + +But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuine +Element. + + +50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, next +the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and +cooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitable +for hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generally +entertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis +likewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but with +moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, +which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after +it has been boil'd, which Dr. _Muffet_ would have in _Wine_, for +Nourishment. + +The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peeping +Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even during +winter, if it prove not too severe. + +_Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too much +eaten. + + +51. Radish, _Raphanus_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably +accompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots) +are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the +[39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a very +grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: +The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent, +eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are +eaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; and +were indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Roots +whatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Raphanus ex +auro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, that +he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am +sure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe, +innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _Cibus +Illiberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed +(besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the +Prince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ to +the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho' +otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, when +the _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_ +differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter +for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them +more _Nourishing_. + +There is a _Raphanus rusticanus_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_, +of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable +_Antiscorbutic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account +an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are also +the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have +done with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take +_Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to +steep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which has +no bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of +Earthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_ +has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the +_Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides. + + +52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Roots +eaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing. + + +53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with +_Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_. + + +Roccombo. See _Onions_. + + +54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_, +_Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with +our _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are always +welcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of +_Wine_. See _Flowers_. + + +55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'd +and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost +imperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the noble +Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_, +_Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tis +a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the +assiduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannot +therefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; but +principally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not to +domineer. + + +Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergrass_. + + +56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about +_Dover_, &c.) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young and +tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_, +almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and other +excellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing the +Passages, sharpning Appetite, &c. so far preferrable to most of our +hotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, +it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in +_France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have +prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own +Coasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tender +Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_, +it has nothing like it. + + +57. Scalions, _Ascalonia_, _Cepæ_; The _French_ call them _Appetites_, +which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes +Concoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold +with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c. + + +58. Scurvy-grass, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially that +of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_, +prevalent in the _Scorbute_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted +in our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indicum_. + + +59. Sellery, _Apium Italicum_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family) +was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) is +an hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_. +The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, as +likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short, +first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, +_Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd +in the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and +_Prætors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to be +given of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the +green in _Fennil_. + + +Shallots. See _Onion_. + + +60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the +Stomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the +_Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor +_Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute. + +This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd, +roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is +very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore +something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects! + + +61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _French +Acetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_ +of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. but the best +is of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning +Appetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is +an _Antiscorbutic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful +a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_, +and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide +_Wood-Sorrel_. + + +62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'd +to eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco._ +Ambassador and his Retinue. + + +63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist; +_Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothing +more nourishing, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. They +are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; but +with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily +boil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which is +done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem +the _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of +the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size. + + +64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftner +kept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a +_Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most +excellent Condiment with _Butter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almost +all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis +_Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and +(tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, and +in all places. + + +Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_. + + +65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrow +dark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only; +and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and +_Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the +Stomach than the Palate. See _Endive_. + + +66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its +domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and much +fitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with +the Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_, +_Primrose-Leaves_, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried +brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as one +of the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes. + + +67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: The +Tops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded our +Composition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highly +cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness +of the Ventricle, _&c._ + + +68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariæ_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle, +disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_, +being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or +raw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; +some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the +_Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both +Nourishing and Restorative. + + +69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist, +grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender, +dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_. + + +70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_ +is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. _Pliny_ +speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which +were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is +preferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, being +sown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they do +excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common +_Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud. + +And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable +sort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten +at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best +of _Wheat_. + +Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and +tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and +when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, +season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting the +Dough remain a little to _ferment_, fashion the Paste into Loaves, and +bake it like common Bread. + +Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with +_Sugar_ and _Butter_. + + +71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (like +those of the _Hop_, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_, +which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_. + + +72. Viper-grass, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. tho' +Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_, +_Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. are besides a very sweet +and pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then +peel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with +_Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. as _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. sliced or +whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root +there is hardly growing. + + +73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature of +other _Sorrels_. + + +To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_, +since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest +_Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not to +eat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an +hundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste. + +The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days, +that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; however +it was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root. + +The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the +_Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and +_Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_; +which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broaths +as a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of +_Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant +_Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonæus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers +of the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd in +Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the +_Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whatever +it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these +add the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. nay, the _Green Poppy_, +by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our +_Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen +to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten +in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust +and strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the +Names of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among the +Learned in _Botany_. + +There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ here +with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large +_Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its +golden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for a +dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with the +ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, that +it did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with their +young Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender, +begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eaten +by the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_ +alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach, +but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which +_Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and +_Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great +vertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of such +effect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time, +us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the _Italians_ +frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_ +(common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_, +and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd, +and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in +_Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but +these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so +others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater +Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cucumber_ +it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than +_Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted. + +To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_, +formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What +if the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, and +challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd, +and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was +dedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we read +of one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinary +Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long before +amass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _Julius +Cæsar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In +a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the +_Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on +the Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for +its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb: +_Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which it +only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_, +whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser it +yields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true and +genuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and +a spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristine +Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary; +since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of +the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, _&c._ +and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat. + +But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, +by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid Assa_ our nicer +_Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar +_Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly +believe it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficiently +describ'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out of +Controversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and +_Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ as +nauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others, +assure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce their +Viands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their +_Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of +our own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with +the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the +richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substituted +instead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature. + +And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_ +as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold +_Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, +and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of +_Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understood +according to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) it +has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of +the _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort, +and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together. + +What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of +_Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means, +approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_ +is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because, +say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green, +young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience +shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the +deadly _Cicutæ_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. for Garden _Persley_, and +_Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_, +(_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_; +_Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, and +horn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _Palustral +Apium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden +Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them +unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should +not prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of them +annoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_, +offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, and +discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. And +therefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nourishing_ and +_Refreshing_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is, +that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of other +Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are +wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer; +to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that had +sometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannot +therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_ +[48](_Transact. Num._ 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that +all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and +Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_ +(a little chang'd) + + _Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_, + _Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_. + + +The Illustrious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what +[50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the +Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account, +as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_ +or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether it +might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_: +Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_ +feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice should +therefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to the +Leaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as +not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passing +for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill +effects. + +_Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as +_Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses how +much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again, +as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst +Men, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek. +And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga], +and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their +Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides +the _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_, +and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter. +We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by +[51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's +need of all the Senses to determine _Analogically_ concerning the +Vertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _Edule +Plants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_ +Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any other +quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill +and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients, +so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed) +_Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect these +Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be +suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust, +Savour, or Vertue. To this end, + +The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish +Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c._ + +The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be +qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the +_Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such as +repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;) +with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the +more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_ +and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and +Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are +Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breast +and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more +or less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd +in our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general, +that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be the +most soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_ +and almost universal) Contagion the _Scorbute_, to which we of this +Nation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the +_Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and +powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were +enough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, and +proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are +contain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightly +marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_) + + + _If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_ + _Of Temperance and Innocence,_ + _And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind,_ + _Diseases passage find;_ + _They must not think here to assail_ + _A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,_ + _They must fight for it, and dispute it hard,_ + _Before they can prevail;_ + _Scarce any Plant is used here,_ + _Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_. + + +We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_, +every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd +by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_ +and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_ +in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And +tho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and illustrate the rest) +striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile +all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the +Comical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pôs +esin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The very +same (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ have +one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care +requir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring and +repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should +be no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting, +as _Athenæus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn. +lib._ I. _cap._ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this: + + _What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_ + _What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_ + _Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_ + _Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_. + + +As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ for +her _Angelical_ Guest. + +Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_, +_Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the +_Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_ +Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the +_Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no +Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_; +too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which +it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent +_Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd +_Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should +be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes, +according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned +[56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious. + +'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all their +Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of +different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they +different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and +activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of +some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _è contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_, +_Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without +_Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again +_Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek: +skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken +by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and +that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_) +of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls +them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_, +and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes +find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_, +_Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_, +pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands. + + +I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients +be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, +dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather +discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially +_Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, +I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently +protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them +remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture: +And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and +so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_ +following. + + +II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, +as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_) +be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of +a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_, +or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, +light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_, +and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_, +and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes. +Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in its +stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means +to be allow'd. + + +III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly +clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, +whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with +the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_, +_Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant. + +A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name, +or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put +into a small Vessel to ferment. + + +IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_, +as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great +a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes +merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately +dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as +of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without +heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; +provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of +_Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful +_Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be +most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been +so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they +affect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevèe_ in lieu of +our vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and +_Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_ +and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_, +_Wormwood_, _Scurvy-grass_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant, +we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, and +all the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say no +more of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeed +there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however +different in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question, +whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_, +unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_, +gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to be +prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) +whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other factitious _Salts_ +of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis +thought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better than +our _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the best +ordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess. + +Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in +_Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet +light and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing, +delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_, +That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to the +Constitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one +for cold, the other for hot stomachs. + + +V. That the _Mustard_ (another noble Ingredient) be of the best +_Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _Yorkshire +Seed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little +(not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of +a Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have been +steep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen +_Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Glass_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_ +over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preserve +the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, to +temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some +esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _Indian +Nasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little +_Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other +_Mustard_ should be. + +_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a +polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most +preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only. + + +VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to +too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here +let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet +Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other +_Peppers_, and more wholsom. + +Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted +to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention +_Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_, +_Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue. + +Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the +_German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling it +with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and +sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_ +and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its +golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt +to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little +incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_. + + +VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_, +boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_, +_Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the +Herbs. + + +VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_, +with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_, +&c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are +apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of. + + +IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes) +be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep +nor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients; +_Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and +_Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there +ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid +_Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they +are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually +stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are +husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt +to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled +and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis +incredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the +gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly +of _Sallet-Herbs_. + +The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and +neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions. + +Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_, +_Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several +Seasons you have in the following Table. + +It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_ +were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them? +we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Principal +Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty +Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving +out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under +these three or four Heads. + +But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and +therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each +containing and lasting Three Months. + +_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no +more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next +Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful. + + * * * * * + +[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their +original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section +headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these +new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually +indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.] + + + ========================================================================= + Species. Ordering and Culture. + ========================================================================= + / 1. _Endive_, Tied-up to Blanch. + | 2. _Cichory_, \ + | 3. _Sellery_, | Earth'd-up + IX. | 4. _Sweet-Fennel_, | + Blanch'd | 5. _Rampions_, / + | + | 6. _Roman_ \ \ Tied-up to Blanch. + | 7. _Cosse_ | _Lettuce,_ | + | 8. _Silesian_ | | Tied close up. + \ 9. _Cabbage_ / / Pome and Blanch of themselves. + + / 10. _Lob-Lettuce_, \ + | 11. _Corn-Sallet_, | Leaves, all of a midling size. + | 12. _Purslane_, / + | + XXVI. | 13. _Cresses_ broad, \ Seed-Leaves, + | 14. _Spinach_, curled, / and the next to them. + | + Green | 15. _Sorrel_, French, \ The fine young Leaves only, + Unblanch'd | 16. _Sorrel_, Greenland, / with the first Shoots. + | + | 17. _Radish_, Only the tender young Leaves. + | 18. _Cresses_, The Seed-Leaves, and those + | only next them. + | 19. _Turnip_, \ + | 20. _Mustard_, | The Seed-Leaves only. + | 21. _Scurvy-grass_, / + | + | 22. _Chervil_, \ The young Leaves + | 23. _Burnet_, | immediately after + | 24. _Rocket_, Spanish, | the Seedlings. + | 25. _Persly_, / + | + | 26. _Tarragon_, \ The tender Shoots + | 27. _Mints_, / and Tops. + | + | 28. _Sampier_, \ + | 29. _Balm_, | The young tender + | 30. _Sage_, Red, / Leaves and Shoots. + | + | 31. _Shalots_, \ + | 32. _Cives_ and _Onion_, / The tender young leaves. + | + | 33. _Nasturtium_, Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers. + | + | 34. _Rampion_, Belgrade \ The Seed-Leaves + \ 35. _Trip-Madame_, / and young Tops. + ========================================================================= + + + + + ========================================================================= + Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_. + ========================================================================= + Ordering + and Species. Proportion. + Culture. + + / _Rampions_, / 10 \ + Blanch'd | _Endive_, | 2 | + as before | _Succory_, | 5 | Roots in Number. + | _Fennel_, Sweet. | 10 | + \ _Sellery_, \ 4 / + + / _Lamb-Lettuce_, \ + | _Lob-Lettuce_, / A pugil of each. + | + | _Radish_, \ + | _Cresses_, / Three parts each. + | + | _Turneps_, \ + | _Mustard_, Seedlings, / Of each One part. + | _Scurvy-grass_, + | _Spinach_, Two parts. + | _Sorrel_, Greenland, \ + Green and | _Sorrel_, French | + Unblanch'd | _Chervil_, sweet, | One part of each. + | _Burnet_, | + | _Rocket_, / + | Twenty large Leaves. + | _Tarragon_, + | _Balm_, \ + | _Mint_, / One small part of each. + | _Sampier_, + | _Shalots_, \ + | _Cives_, / Very few + | + | _Cabbage_, Winter. Two pugils or + \ small handfuls. + + ========================================================================= + Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_. + ========================================================================= + Ordering + and Species. Proportion. + Culture. + + / _Lop_, \ \ + Blanch'd | _Silesan_, Winter, | Lettuce. | Of each a pugil. + \ _Roman_, Winter, / / + + / _Radishes_, Three parts. + Green Herbs | _Cresses_, Two parts. + Unblanch'd. | _Purselan_, 1 Fasciat, + | or pretty full gripe + | _Sorrel_, French, Two parts. + Note, _That | _Sampier_, One part. + the young | _Onions_, young. Six parts. + Seedling | _Sage_-tops,_ the Red, Two parts. + Leaves of | + Orange and | _Persley_, \ + Lemon may | _Cresses_, the Indian, | + all these | _Lettuce_, Belgrade, | Of each One part. + months be | _Trip-Madame_, | + mingled with | _Chervil_, sweet / + the Sallet._ | + \ _Burnet_, Two parts. + + ========================================================================= + Month. _July_, _August_, and _September_. + ========================================================================= + Ordering + and Species. Proportion. + Culture. + + Blanch'd, / Silesian _Lettuce_, One whole _Lettuce_. + _and may be | + eaten by | Roman _Lettuce_, \ Two parts. + themselves | _Cress_, / + with some_ | + Nasturtium- \ _Cabbage_, Four parts. + _flowers_. + + / _Cresses_, \ + | _Nasturtium_, / Two parts. + | + | _Purslane_, \ + | _Lop-Lettuce_, / One part. + | + Green Herbs | Belgrade, _or_ \ + _by | Crumpen-_Lettuce_. / Two parts. + themselves | + or mingl'd | _Tarragon_, One part. + with the_ | + Blanch'd. | _Sorrel_, French \ + | _Burnet_, / Two parts of each. + | + \ _Trip-Madame_, One part. + + ========================================================================= + Month. _October_, _November_, and _December_. + ========================================================================= + Ordering + and Species. Proportion. + Culture. + + / _Endive. \ Two if large, four + | _Sellery_, | if small, Stalk and + | | part of the Root and + | / tenderest Leaves. + | + Blanch'd | _Lop-Lettuce_, \ + | _Lambs-Lettuce_, / An handful of each. + | + | _Radish_, Three parts. + \ _Cresses_, Two parts. + + / _Turneps_, \ + | _Mustard_ Seedlings, / One part of each. + Green | + | _Cresses_, broad, \ + \ _Spinach_, / Two parts of each. + + + * * * * * + + + + +_Farther Directions concerning the proper_ Seasons _for the_ Gathering, +Composing, _and_ Dressing _of a_ Sallet. + + +And _First_, as to the _Season_ both _Plants_ and _Roots_ are then +properly to be _Gather'd_, and in prime, when most they abound with +Juice and in Vigour: Some in the _Spring_, or a little anticipating +it before they Blossom, or are in full Flower: Some in the _Autumnal_ +Months; which later Season many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in +such exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and so render'd fit +for _Salleting_, 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new, and +tender Shoots and Leaves. + +This, indeed, as to the _Root_, newly taken out of the Ground is true; +and therefore should such have their _Germination_ stopt the sooner: The +approaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; as +does Heat the contrary, which now would but exhaust them: But for those +other _Esculents_ and Herbs imploy'd in our _Composition_ of _Sallets_, +the early _Spring_, and ensuing Months (till they begin to mount, and +prepare to _Seed_) is certainly the most natural, and kindly Season +to collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then consult +_Culpeper_, or the _Figure-flingers_, to inform them when the governing +_Planet_ is in its _Exaltation_; but look upon the _Plants_ themselves, +and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions. + +Moreover, in _Gathering_, Respect is to be had to their Proportions, +as provided for in the _Table_ under that Head, be the Quality +whatsoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than +_Lettuce_ and _Mustard_ for the _Head_ and _Eyes_; yet either of them +eaten in excess, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much of +the _first_ extreamly debilitating and weakning the _Ventricle_, and +hastning the further decay of sickly _Teeth_; and of the _second_ the +_Optic Nerves_, and _Sight_ it self; the like may be said of all the +rest. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Person, well acquainted with the +Nature and Properties of _Sallet-Herbs_, &c. to be both the fittest +_Gatherer_ and _Composer_ too; which yet will require no great Cunning, +after once he is acquainted with our _Table_ and _Catalogue_. + +We purposely, and _in transitu_ only, take notice here of the Pickl'd, +_Muriated_, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants, +and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to be +eaten altogether _Crude_, (of which in the _Appendix_) and among which +I reckon _Ash-keys_, _Broom-buds_ and _Pods_, _Haricos_, _Gurkems_, +_Olives_, _Capers_, the Buds and Seeds of _Nasturtia_, _Young +Wall-nuts_, _Pine-apples_, _Eringo_, _Cherries_, _Cornelians_, +_Berberries_, _&c._ together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits; +Ordinary Pot-herbs, _Anis_, _Cistus Hortorum_, _Horminum_, _Pulegium_, +_Satureia_, _Thyme_; the intire Family of Pulse and _Legumena_; or other +_Sauces_, _Pies_, _Tarts_, _Omlets_, _Tansie_, _Farces_, &c. _Condites_ +and Preserves with _Sugar_ by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all +of them the genuine Production of the _Garden_, and mention'd in our +_Kalendar_, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selves +to such Plants and _Esculenta_ as we find at hand; delight our selves +to gather, and are easily prepar'd for an _Extemporary Collation_, +or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more +Agreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is. + +But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or more +proper, to _Begin_ with _Sallets_, or End and Conclude with them? Some +think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction; +others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and prevent +Obstruction; and this makes for our _Sallets_, _Horarii_, and _Fugaces +Fructus_ (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable to +the general Opinion of the great _Hippocrates_, and _Galen_, and of +_Celsus_ before him. And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin with +their _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given: + + [60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_ + _Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_. + + +And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m +arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary, + + [62]_Gratáque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_. + + +But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eating +plentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigerating +Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to +expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, the +spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of a +crude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturb +a surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with _Sallets_, +and innovate the ancient Usage. + + [63]----_Nam Lactuca innatat acri_ + _Post Vinum Stomacho_---- + + For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat, + It floats upon the Stomach---- + + +The _Spaniards_, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner, +especially _Lettuce_, beginning with _Fruit_, even before the _Olio_ and +Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating the +best Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remains +undecided with them, + + [64]_Claudere quae coenas_ Lactuca _solebat avorum_ + _Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?_ + + The _Sallet_, which of old came in at last, + Why now with it begin we our Repast? + + +And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple: +Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and other +Tree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; and +when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do +properly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to which +this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of +hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already +publish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the _Dressing_, and +_Composing_ of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long to +see the _Rules_ reduc'd to _Practice_, and Refresh himself with what +he finds growing among his own _Lactuceta_ and other Beds of the +_Kitchin-Garden_. + + + * * * * * + + + + +DRESSING + + +I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent _Cook_, or of those who +set up, and value themselves, for their skill in _Sauces_; such as was +_Mithacus_ a _Culinary Philosopher_, and other _Eruditæ Gulæ_; who read +Lectures of _Hautgouts_, like the _Archestratus_ in _Athenæus_: Tho' +after what we find the _Heroes_ did of old, and see them chining out the +slaughter'd _Ox_, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both _Cook_ +and _Butcher_, (for so [66]_Homer_ represents _Achilles_ himself, and +the rest of those Illustrious _Greeks_) I say, after this, let none +reproach our _Sallet-Dresser_, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, and +Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and _Nidor_, Blood +and Cruelty; whilst all the World were _Eaters_, and _Composers_ of +_Sallets_ in its best and brightest Age. + +The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the +_Endive_ have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing _in_ the +White: In like manner the _Sellery_ is also to have the hollow green +Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, and +cutting the Root into four equal Parts. + +_Lettuce_, _Gresses_, _Radish_, &c. (as was directed) must be +exquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer; +swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or all +together; Because some like not so well the _Blanch'd_ and Bitter +Herbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle _Endive_, _Succory_, and +_Rampions_, without distinction, and generally eat _Sellery_ by it +self, as also Sweet _Fennel_. + +From _April_ till _September_ (and during all the Hot _Months_) may +_Guinny-Pepper_, and _Horse-Radish_ be left out; and therefore we only +mention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner. + +Your _Herbs_ being handsomely parcell'd, and spread on a clean Napkin +before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd +Dishes: Then, for the _Oxoleon_; Take of clear, and perfectly good +_Oyl-Olive_, three Parts; of sharpest _Vinegar_ ([67]sweetest of all +_Condiments_) _Limon_, or Juice of _Orange_, one Part; and therein let +steep some Slices of _Horse-Radish_, with a little _Salt_; Some in a +separate _Vinegar_, gently bruise a _Pod_ of _Guinny-Pepper_, straining +both the _Vinegars_ apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or of +both, as they best like; then add as much _Tewkesbury_, or other dry +_Mustard_ grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle +all these very well together; but pour not on the _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, +'till immediately before the _Sallet_ is ready to be eaten: And then +with the _Yolk_ of two new-laid _Eggs_ (boyl'd and prepar'd, as before +is taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; and +lastly, pour it all upon the _Herbs_, stirring, and mingling them 'till +they are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of +_Aromaticks_, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if you +think fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of +_Horse-Radish_, _Red Beet_, _Berberries_, &c. + +_Note_, That the _Liquids_ may be made more, or less _Acid_, as is most +agreeable to your Taste. + + +These _Rules_, and _Prescriptions_ duly _Observ'd_; you have a _Sallet_ +(for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) _Dress'd_, and Accommodated +_secundum Artem_: For, as the [68]Proverb has it, + + [Greek: 'Ou ôantos andros esin artusai kalôs.] + _Non est cujusvis rectè condire_. + + +And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the _Herbaceous_ Diet, +there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of _Crude +Herbs_ and _Plants_ are so wholesom as is pretended? + +What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall see +hereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer, +before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with the +Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People, +who to this Day, living on _Herbs_ and _Roots_, arrive to incredible +Age, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the +_Air_ and _Climate_, _Custom_, _Constitution_, &c. should be inquir'd +into; especially, when we compare the _Antediluvians_ mention'd _Gen._ +1. 29--the whole _Fifth_ and _Ninth_ Chapters, _ver._ 3. confining them +to _Fruit_ and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the _Air_ and +_Earth_ might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants, +and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since, +and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid +Carcasses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I find +few, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted the +Air: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundreds +of _Essex_) being more obnoxious to _Fevers_, _Agues_, _Pleurisies_, +and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'd +with what it likely was before that destructive _Cataclysm_, when +Men breath'd the pure _Paradisian_ Air, sucking in a more _æthereal_, +nourishing, and baulmy _Pabulum_, so foully vitiated now, thro' the +Intemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of the +Ages since. + +_Custom_, and _Constitution_ come next to be examin'd, together with +the Qualities, and _Vertue_ of the Food; and I confess, the two first, +especially that of _Constitution_, seems to me the more likely Cause of +Health, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider of +what Quality the usual _Sallet_ Furniture did more eminently consist, +that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour, +and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures +might be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whose +Constitutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Things +which are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions, +with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the _Junior +Gordian_ (and others like him) prefer the _frigidæ Mensæ_ (as of old +they call'd _Sallets_) which, according to _Cornelius Celsus_, is the +fittest Diet for _Obese_ and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, and +apt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated; +such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherish +the Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive +the Spirits: And therefore my _Lord_ [69]_Bacon_ shews what are best +Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. _Galen_ +indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their due +Correctives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that even +the most _Crude_ and _Herby_, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be +Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whose +Food is only Grass. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd, +and dress'd a _Sallet_ for them in every field, besides what they +distinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plants +and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and not +Experience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of their +Properties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events, +supposing with [70]_Cardan_, that Plants nourish little, they hurt as +little. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, +but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such +admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not +only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as +_Onions_, _Garlick_, _Rochet_, &c. which are both nutritive and warm; +_Lettuce_, _Purselan_, the _Intybs_, &c. and indeed most of the _Olera_, +refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into +the Substances of our Bodies, they become _Aliment_; so in regard of +their Change and Alteration, we may allow them _Medicinal_; especially +the greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of +very few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole _Materia +Medica_) which may be justly call'd _Infallible Specifics_, and upon +whose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such as +familiarly we use for a Crude _Herb-Sallet;_ discreetly chosen, mingl'd, +and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, and +render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, +and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay, +perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture, +Constitution, and _Season_ rightly be understood) we stand up in Defence +and Vindication of our _Sallet_, against all Attacks and Opposers +whoever. + +We have mentioned _Season_ and with the great _Hippocrates_, pronounce +them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Parts +of Plants us'd in _Sallet_ are yet tender, delicate, and impregnated +with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat and +Drought of the Hot and _Bilious_, Young and over-_Sanguine_, Cold, +_Pituit_, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours, +and Constitutions whatsoever. + +To this of the _Annual Seasons_, we add that of _Culture_ also, as of +very great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste and +consequently in the Goodness of such Plants and _Salleting_, as are +Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with those +which the Avarice of the _Gardiner_, or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts +them to force and _Resuscitate_ of the most desirable and delicious +Plants. + +It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities, +where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early _Salleting_, nothing +is more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy and +fresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle +and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung, +loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by the +Wind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with those +pernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the _Hot Beds_ +for the raising those _Præcoces_ indeed, and forward Plants and Roots +for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannot +but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. And +the same was well observ'd by the _Editor_ of our famous _Roger Bacon's_ +Treatise concerning the _Cure of Old Age_, and _Preservation of Youth_: +There being nothing so proper for _Sallet Herbs_ and other _Edule +Plants_, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd +with well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture of +Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd and +ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self, +as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderately +Perflatile Grounds; where not only _Plants_ but _Men_ do last, and live +much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, and +other Grain rais'd from _Marle_, _Chalk_, _Lime_, and other sweet Soil +and Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the _Dunghil_ only. +Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of _Dung_ is frequently the +Cause of Blasts and Smuttiness; as if the _Lord_ of the _Universe_, +by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of all +unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Difference +in Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in _Fowl_, from such +as are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable +_Meats_, so of _Drinks_, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, according +to the Soil, produces a _Wine_ twice as heady as in the same, and a +less forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to +determine any thing of the _Peach_ said to be Poison in _Persia_; +because 'tis a _Vulgar Error_. + +Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and +spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as _Early +Asparagus_, &c. [73]Dr. _Lister_, (according to his communicative and +obliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our _Gardiners_ +cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying of +Clean and Sweet _Wheat-Straw_ upon the Beds, _super-seminating_ and +over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised _Oyster-Shells_, +&c. to produce that most tender and delicious _Sallet_. In the mean +while, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd _Ex tempore_, and +by Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the +_Adepti_) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That having +some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting an +early Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed _Lettuce_ and some +other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; which +within the space of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high, +presented them with a delicate and tender _Sallet_; and this, without +making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients not +altogether so cheap perhaps. _Honoratus Faber_ (no mean _Philosopher_) +shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in _Vinegar_, +casting on it a good quantity of _Bean-Shell_ Ashes, irrigating them +with _Spirit of Wine_, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry +Matts. Such another Process for the raising early _Peas_ and _Beans_, +&c. we have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable and +certain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such as +the honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden +seasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time, +and without forcing Nature. + +But to return again to _Health_ and _Long Life_, and the Wholesomness +of the Herby-Diet, [75]_John Beverovicius_, a Learn'd Physician (out of +_Peter Moxa_, a _Spaniard_) treating of the extream Age, which those of +_America_ usually arrive to, asserts in behalf of Crude and Natural +Herbs: _Diphilus_ of old, as [76]_Athenæus_ tells us, was on the other +side, against all the Tribe of _Olera_ in general; and _Cardan_ of late +(as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to +be much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonist +utterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest +_Northern_) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than +the _Southern_; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, +and of deeper Penetration: Witness the _Chaldæans_, _Assyrians_, +_Ægyptians_, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most +_Carnivorous_ Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminating +kind; as the _Hart_, _Camel_, and the longævous _Elephant_, and other +Feeders on Roots and Vegetables. + +I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of _Dissimilar_ +Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion, +keeping to the same _Species_; of which there is infinitely more Variety +in the _Herby_ Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is in +the _Generical_ Difference of _Flesh_, _Fish_, _Fruit_, &c. with other +made Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has +introduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour things +of such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and of +contrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food of +the same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]_Celsus_, +_Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiæ, genus, & modus +pertineat_. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regard +should be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quantity and Quality of the +Matter. As to that of _Dissimilar_ Parts, requiring this contended for +Variety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not) +there is (after all the late Contests about _Comparative Anatomy_) so +little Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts and +Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and +other Separations for Supply of Life, _&c._ That it does not appear +why there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the most +simple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; according +to that of the [79]Naturalist, _Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex_. +And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldom +afflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned: +And if the many Diseases of _Horses_ seem to [80]contradict it, I am apt +to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd +Stable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; being +restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Nature +and Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air, +standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches, +unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant _Horse-Quacks_ +and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring +Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds, +_&c._ which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous +Creatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whom +their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their +long and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the rest +of their Lives (as the _Grand Seignior_ does his _Meccha-Camel_) have +been known to live _forty_, _fifty_, nay (says [81]_Aristotle_,) no fewer +than _sixty five_ Years. When once Old _Par_ came to change his simple, +homely Diet, to that of the _Court_ and _Arundel-House_, he quickly sunk +and dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concocts +plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, to +vanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we so +often see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, very +healthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'd +than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet. + + [83]----_Nam variae res_ + _Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae,_ + _Quae simplex olim tibi sederit_---- + + For different Meats do hurt; + Remember how + When to one Dish confin'd, thou + healthier wast than now: + + +was _Osellus's Memorandum_ in the Poet. + +Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assist +our Appetite) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshing +and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives; +Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular +Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and +other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise, +and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needs +little or no Variety to quicken and content it. + +And here might we attest the _Patriarchal_ World, nay, and many +Persons since; who living very temperately came not much short of the +_Post-Diluvians_ themselves, counting from _Abraham_ to this Day; and +some exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a constant, tho' course and +simple Diet; wholsome and uncompounded Drink; that never tasted _Brandy_ +or _Exotic Spirits_; but us'd moderate Exercise, and observ'd good +Hours: For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia; who +had attain'd the Age of _four hundred_ Years, (a full _Century_ beyond +the famous _Johannes de Temporibus_) and was living _Anno_ 1636, and so +may be still for ought we know. But, to our Sallet. + +Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining [84]_Herbs_ and _Fruit_ for the +Food of Men, speaks not a Word concerning _Flesh_ for two thousand +Years. And when after, by the _Mosaic_ Constitution, there were +Distinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of _Animals_; +_Plants_, of what kind soever, were left free and indifferent for every +one to choose what best he lik'd. And what if it was held undecent and +unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grew +enormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for +him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing +Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? Doubtless there +was no need of it. Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born; +and when grown, and able to feed themselves, run naturally to Fruit, and +still will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might so +persist to do, did not Custom prevail, even against the very Dictates of +Nature: Nor, question I, but that what the Heathen [85]_Poets_ recount +of the Happiness of the _Golden Age_, sprung from some Tradition they +had received of the _Paradisian_ Fare, their innocent and healthful +Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it suffice, that _Adam_, and his +yet innocent Spouse, fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productions +before the fatal Lapse; which, by the way, many Learned Men will hardly +allow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grant +them a single Day; nay, nor half a one, for their Continuance in the +State of Original Perfection; whilst the sending him into the Garden; +Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition +concerning the _Sacramental_ Trees; the Imposition of [86]Names, so +apposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures +(requiring deep Inspection) the Formation of _Eve_, a meet Companion to +relieve his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and +Success of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reasonably think made but +one Assault: And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction of +their Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Fast, and all other +their Obligations in so few Moments. I say, all these Particulars +consider'd; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those do +fancy, who take their Measure from the Summary _Moses_ gives us, who did +not write to gratifie Mens Curiosity, but to transmit what was necessary +and sufficient for us to know. + +This then premis'd (as I see no Reason why it should not) and that +during all this Space they liv'd on _Fruits_ and _Sallets_; 'tis little +probable, that after their Transgression, and that they had forfeited +their Dominion over the Creature (and were sentenc'd and exil'd to a +Life of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil) the offended +God should regale them with Pampering _Flesh_, or so much as suffer +them to slay the more innocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they had +Permission, it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them, or in way of +Adoration, or _Holocaust_ for Expiation, of which nothing of the _Flesh_ +was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey (tho' +pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without destroying their Fellow Creatures) +as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorous +among them in the Ark. + +Thus then for two thousand Years, the Universal Food was _Herbs_ and +_Plants_; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of _Flesh_ and other +luxurious Meats, which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years; the +[87][Greek: makro-biotê-a] of the Patriarchs, which was an Emblem of +Eternity as it were (after the new Concession) beginning to dwindle to +a little Span, a Nothing in Comparison. + +On the other side, examine we the present Usages of several other +Heathen Nations; particularly (bessides the _ægyptian_ Priests of old) +the _Indian Bramins_, Relicts of the ancient _Gymnosophists_ to this +Day, observing the Institutions of their Founder. _Flesh_, we know was +banish'd the _Platonic_ Tables, as well as from those of _Pythagoras_; +(See [88]_Porphyry_ and their Disciples) tho' on different Accounts. +Among others of the Philosophers, from _Xenocrates_, _Polemon_, &c. we +hear of many. The like we find in [89]_Clement Alexand._ [90]_Eusebius_ +names more. _Zeno_, _Archinomus_, _Phraartes_, _Chiron_, and others, +whom _Lærtius_ reckons up. In short, so very many, especially of the +Christian Profession, that some, even of the ancient [91]Fathers +themselves, have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to +_Noah_ and his Sons, was granted them no otherwise than _Repudiation_ of +Wives was to the _Jews_, namely, for _the Hardness of their Hearts_, and +to satisfie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed _Manna_ +it self, and _Bread from Heaven_. So difficult a thing it is to subdue +an unruly Appetite; which notwithstanding [92]_Seneca_ thinks not so +hard a Task; where speaking of the Philosopher _Sextius_, and _Socion's_ +(abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the +_Herby_ and _Sallet_ Diet, as _Physical_, and _Natural_ Advancers of +Health and other Blessings; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men of +nothing but what _Lions_, _Vultures_, Beasts and birds of Prey, blood +and gorge themselves withal, The whole _Epistle_ deserves the Reading, +for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects; and how +from many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies, grown into Habit and +Custom (old as he was) he had Emancipated and freed himself: Be this +apply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and _Exotic_ +Liquors. And now + +I am sufficiently sensible how far, and to how little purpose I am gone +on this _Topic_: The Ply is long since taken, and our raw _Sallet_ deckt +in its best Trim, is never like to invite Men who once have tasted +_Flesh_ to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd. +Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter, upon any +Account of Distinction of _Pure_ and _Impure_; tho' seriously consider'd +(as _Sextius_ held) _rationi magis congrua_, as it regards the cruel +Butcheries of so many harmless Creatures; some of which we put to +merciless and needless Torment, to accommodat them for exquisite and +uncommon _Epicurism_. There lies else no positive Prohibition; +Discrimination of Meats being [93]Condemn'd as the _Doctrine of Devils_: +Nor do Meats _commend us to God_. One eats _quid vult_ (of every thing:) +another _Olera_, and of _Sallets_ only: But this is not my Business, +further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances and +Examples, to live on wholsome Vegetables, both long and happily: For so + + [94]_The_ Golden Age, _with this Provision blest,_ + _Such a_ Grand Sallet _made, and was a Feast._ + _The_ Demi-Gods _with Bodies large and sound,_ + _Commended then the Product of the Ground._ + _Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Lust_, + _Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst:_ + _Be their vile Names in Execration held,_ + _Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd:_ + _Parent of Vice, and all Diseases since,_ + _With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence._ + _Ah, from such reeking, bloody Tables fly,_ + _Which Death for our Destruction does supply._ + _In_ Health, _if_ Sallet-Herbs _you can't endure;_ + _Sick, you'll desire them; or for_ Food, _or_ Cure. + + +As to the other part of the Controversie, which concerns us, [Greek: +aimatophagoi], and _Occidental Blood_-Eaters; some Grave and Learn'd +Men of late seem to scruple the present Usage, whilst they see the +Prohibition appearing, and to carry such a Face of _Antiquity_, +[95]_Scripture_, [96]_Councils_, [97]_Canons_, [98]_Fathers_; _Imperial +Constitutions_, and _Universal Practice_, unless it be among us of these +Tracts of _Europe_, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eating +the _Blood_ and _Animal_ Life of Creatures first was brought; and by +our Mixtures with the _Goths_, _Vandals_, and other Spawn of Pagan +_Scythians_; grown a Custom, and since which I am persuaded more Blood +has been shed between _Christians_ than there ever was before the Water +of the Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it +only to our eating _Blood_; but sometimes wonder how it hap'ned that +so strict, so solemn and famous a _Sanction_ not upon a _Ceremonial +Account_; but (as some affirm) a _Moral_ and _Perpetual_ from _Noah_, +to whom the Concession of eating _Flesh_ was granted, and that of Blood +forbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) and whilst there also seems +to lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among +_Christians_, should be so generally forgotten, and give place to so +many other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superstitious +Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats. + +As to the Reason of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty +excepted, (and that by _Galen_, and other experienc'd Physicians, +the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome, causing Indigestion and +Obstructions) if a positive Command of _Almighty God_ were not enough, +it seems sufficiently intimated; because _Blood_ was the _Vehicle_ of +the _Life_ and _Animal Soul_ of the Creature: For what other mysterious +Cause, as haply its being always dedicated to _Expiatory Sacrifices_, +&c. it is not for us to enquire. 'Tis said, that _Justin Martyr_ +being asked, why the _Christians_ of his time were permitted the +eating _Flesh_ and not the _Blood_? readily answer'd, That God might +distinguish them from Beasts, which eat them both together. 'Tis +likewise urg'd, that by the _Apostolical Synod_ (when the rest of the +_Jewish_ Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd) this Prohibition was +mention'd as a thing [99]_necessary_, and rank'd with _Idolatry_, which +was not to be local or temporary; but universally injoyn'd to converted +Strangers and _Proselytes_, as well as _Jews_: Nor could the Scandal +of neglecting to observe it, concern them alone, after so many Ages as +it was and still is in continual Use; and those who transgress'd, so +severely punish'd, as by an _Imperial Law_ to be scourg'd to _Blood_ and +Bone: Indeed, so terrible was the Interdiction, that _Idolatry_ excepted +(which was also Moral and perpetual) nothing in Scripture seems to be +more express. In the mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does +not, they say, extend to that [Greek: akribeia] of those few diluted +Drops of _Extravasated Blood_, which might happen to tinge the Juice +and Gravy of the Flesh (which were indeed _to strain at a Gnat_) but +to those who devour the _Venal_ and _Arterial Blood_ separately, and +in Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations +and _Apician_ Tables. + +But this, and all the rest will, I fear, seem but _Oleribus verba +facere_, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of +preaching down _Hogs-Puddings_, and usurp the Chair of _Rabby-Busy_: And +therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the _Antediluvian_ Diet, +we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and such as _Curcellæus_, who +has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from _Tertullian, Hierom, S. +Chrysostom_, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, _Lyra_, _Tostatus_, +_Dionysius Carthusianus_, _Pererius_, amongst the _Pontificians_; of +_Peter Martyr_, _Zanchy_, _Aretius_, _Jac. Capellus_, _Hiddiger_, +_Cocceius_, _Bochartus_, &c. amongst the _Protestants_; and _instar +omnium_, by _Salmasius_, _Grotius_, _Vossius_, _Blundel_: In a Word, by +the Learn'd of both Persuasions, favourable enough to these Opinions, +_Cajetan_ and _Calvin_ only excepted, who hold, that as to _Abstinence_ +from _Flesh_, there was no positive Command or Imposition concerning +it; but that the Use of _Herbs_ and _Fruit_ was recommended rather for +Temperance sake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which score I am +inclin'd to believe that the ancient [Greek: theraôentai], and other +devout and contemplative Sects, distinguish'd themselves; whose Course +of Life we have at large describ'd in [100]_Philo_ (who liv'd and taught +much in Gardens) with others of the Abstemious _Christians_; among whom, +_Clemens_ brings in St. _Mark_ the _Evangelist_ himself, _James_ our +Lord's Brother. St. _John_, &c. and with several of the devout Sex, the +famous _Diaconesse Olympias_, mention'd by _Palladius_ (not to name +the rest) who abstaining from Flesh, betook themselves to _Herbs_ and +_Sallets_ upon the Account of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying +it; and concerning which the incomparable _Grotius_ declares ingenuously +his Opinion to be far from censuring, not only those who forbear the +eating _Flesh_ and Blood, _Experimenti Causa_, and for Discipline sake; +but such as forbear _ex Opinione_, and (because it has been the ancient +Custom) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty; and I +think he's in the right. + +But leaving this Controversie (_ne nimium extra oleas_) it has often +been objected, that _Fruit_, and _Plants_, and all other things, may +since the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have universally +become _Effoete_, impair'd and diverted of those Nutritious and +transcendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal: But as this is +begging the Question, and to which we have already spoken; so all are +not agreed that there is any, the least [101]_Decay in Nature_, where +equal Industry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true indeed, that the _Ordo +Foliatorum, Feuillantines_ (a late Order of _Ascetic Nuns_) amongst +other Mortifications, made Trial upon the _Leaves_ of _Plants_ alone, +to which they would needs confine themselves; but were not able to go +through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir'd whether +they had not first, and from their very Childhood, been fed and brought +up with _Flesh_, and better Sustenance till they enter'd the _Cloyster_; +and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd by +their Institution? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of +_Sallets_, or its Disparagement. In the mean time, that we still think +it not only possible, but likely, and with no great Art or Charge +(taking _Roots_ and _Fruit_ into the Basket) substantially to maintain +Mens Lives in Health and Vigour: For to _this_, and less than this, we +have the Suffrage of the great [102]_Hippocrates_ himself; who thinks, +_ab initio etiam hominum_ (as well as other Animals) _tali victu +usum esse_, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconsiderable +Speculation, That since _all Flesh is Grass_ (not in a _Figurative_, +but _Natural_ and _Real_ Sense) _Man_ himself, who lives on _Flesh_, +and I think upon no Earthly Animal whatsoever, but such as feed on +Grass, is nourish'd with them still; and so becoming an _Incarnate +Herb_, and Innocent _Canibal_, may truly be said to devour himself. + +We have said nothing of the _Lotophagi_, and such as (like St. _John_ +the _Baptist_, and other religious _Ascetics_) were Feeders on the +_Summities_ and Tops of Plants: But as divers of those, and others we +have mention'd, were much in times of Streights, Persecutions, and other +Circumstances, which did not in the least make it a Pretence, exempting +them from Labour, and other Humane Offices, by ensnaring Obligations +and vows (never to be useful to the Publick, in whatever Exigency) +so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned _Critic_ speaking of +Mens neglecting plain and Essential Duties, under Colour of exercising +themselves in a more sublime Course of Piety, and being Righteous above +what is commanded (as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries) that +they manifestly discover excessive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour, +Impatience of Injuries; to which _add, Melancholy Plots and +Machinations_; and that he must be either stupid, or infected with the +same Vice himself, who admires this [Greek: etheloperiosothrêskeia], or +thinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to God. This being +so, what may we then think of such Armies of _Hermits_, _Monks_ and +_Friers_, who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritorious +Abstinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats +(which God without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and +[103]indifferent amongst _Christians_) but by other sordid Usages, and +unnecessary Hardships, wilfully prejudice their Health and Constitution? +and through a singular manner of living, dark and _Saturnine_; whilst +they would seem to abdicate and forsake the World (in Imitation, as they +pretend, of the Ancient _Eremites_) take care to settle, and build their +warm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities, and Places of +Resort; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of an +extraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying the _Desarts_, where there +is indeed no use of them; and flocking to the _Towns_ and _Cities_ where +there is less, indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the +Emperour _Valentinian_ banished them the Cities, and _Constantine +Copronymus_ finding them seditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leave +their Cells, and live as did others. For of these, some there are who +seldom speak, and therefore edifie none; sleep little, and lie hard, are +clad nastily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholsom) +and therefore benefit none; Not because they might not, both for their +own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but because they will not; +Custom, and a prodigious [104]Sloth accompanying it; which renders it +so far from _Penance_, and the Mortification pretended, that they know +not how to live, or spend their Time otherwise. This, as I have often +consider'd, so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd, and taken +notice of by a [105]Learned Person, amongst others of his useful +Remarks abroad. + +'These, says he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life, +plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour, than +from any true and serious Principle of sound Religion; which teaches +Men to be useful in their Generations, sociable and communicative, +unaffected, and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit, +as are these (forsooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call'd) spending +their Days in idle and fruitless Forms, and tedious Repetitions; and +thereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient, and truly pious +_Solitaries_, who, God knows, were driven from their Countries and +Repose, by the Incursions of barbarous Nations (whilst these have no +such Cause) and compell'd to Austerities, not of their own chusing and +making, but the publick Calamity; and to _labour_ with their _Hands_ +for their own, and others necessary Support, as well as with with their +_Prayers_ and holy Lives, Examples to all the World: And some of these +indeed (bessides the _Solitaries_ of the _Thebaid_, who wrought for +abundance of poor Christians, sick, and in Captivity) I might bring +in, as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd; not for their +rigorous Fare, and uncouth Disguises; but for teaching that the Grace +of Temperance and other Vertues, consisted in a cheerful, innocent, +and profitable Conversation. + +And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the _Hortulan Provision_ +has been celebrated for, bessides its Antiquity, Health and _Longævity_ +of the _Antediluvians_; that Temperance, Frugality, Leisure, Ease, and +innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no +less attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent _Botanist_ [106]Mr. +_Ray_. + +'The Use of Plants (says he) is all our Life long of that universal +Importance and Concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in any +Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at all +without them: whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us, whatsoever +contributes to delight and refresh us, are supply'd and brought forth +out of that plentiful and abundant store: and ah, how much more +innocent, sweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with these, than with +all the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals: Certainly +Man by Nature was never made to be a _Carnivorous_ Creature; nor is +he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and pointed Teeth and +crooked Claws, sharp'ned to rend and tear: But with gentle Hands to +gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and eat them: Nor +do we so much as read the Use of _Flesh_ for Food, was at all permitted +him, till after the Universal Deluge, _&c._ + +To this might we add that transporting Consideration, becoming both our +Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author of +Nature, who has given to _Plants_ such astonishing Properties; such +fiery Heat in some to warm and cherish, such Coolness in others to +temper and refresh, such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body, +such quickening _Acids_ to compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles to +court the Obedience of the Palate, such Vigour to renew and support our +natural Strength, such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and +delight us: In short, such spirituous and active Force to animate and +revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had +almost said Heavenly Capacity too. What shall we add more? Our Gardens +present us with them all; and whilst the _Shambles_ are cover'd with +Gore and Stench, our _Sallets_ scape the Insults of the Summer _Fly_, +purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants there +Variety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew. + +Survey we their _Bills of Fare_, and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by +_Athenæus_, drest with all the Garnish of _Nicander_ and other _Grecian_ +Wits: What has the _Roman Grand Sallet_ worth the naming? _Parat +Convivium_, The Guests are nam'd indeed, and we are told, + + ----[107]_Varias, quas habet hortus opes?_ + How richly the Garden's stor'd: + + + _In quibus est Luctuca sedens, & tonsile porrum, + Nee deest ructatrix Mentha, nec herba salax, &c._ + + + * * * * * + + + + +A Goodly Sallet! + + +_Lettuce_, _Leeks_, _Mint_, _Rocket_, _Colewort-Tops_, with _Oyl_ and +_Eggs_, and such an _Hotch-Pot_ following (as the Cook in _Plautus_ +would deservedly laugh at). But how infinitely out-done in this Age of +ours, by the Variety of so many rare _Edules_ unknown to the Ancients, +that there's no room for the Comparison. And, for Magnificence, let +the _Sallet_ drest by the Lady for an Entertainment made by _Jacobus +Catsius_ (describ'd by the Poet [108]_Barlæus_) shew; not at all yet +out-doing what we every Day almost find at our _Lord Mayor's Table_, and +other great Persons, Lovers of the Gardens; that sort of elegant Cookery +being capable of such wonderful Variety, tho' not altogether wanting +of old, if that be true which is related to us of [109]_Nicomedes_ +a certain King of Bithynia, whose Cook made him a _Pilchard_ (a Fish +he exceedingly long'd for) of a well dissembl'd Turnip, carv'd in its +Shape, and drest with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Pepper_, that so deceiv'd, and +yet pleased the Prince, that he commended it for the best Fish he had +ever eaten. Nor does all this exceed what every industrious _Gardiner_ +may innocently enjoy, as well as the greatest Potentate on Earth. + + Vitellius _his Table, to which every Day_ + _All Courtiers did a constant Tribute pay,_ + _Could nothing more delicious afford_ + _Than Nature's Liberality._ + _Help'd with a little Art and Industry,_ + _Allows the meanest Gard'ners Board,_ + _The Wanton Taste no Fish or Fowl can chuse,_ + _For which the Grape or Melon she would lose._ + _Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air._ + _Be lifted in the Glutton's Bill of Fare;_ + _Yet still the_ Sallet, _and the_ Fruit _we see_ + _Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury_. + + +So the Sweet [110]_Poet_, whom I can never part with for his Love to +this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me. + +Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance, with which the benign and +bountiful Author of Nature has stor'd the whole Terrestrial World, more +with _Plants_ and _Vegetables_ than with any other Provision whatsoever; +and the Variety not only equal, but by far exceeding the Pleasure +and Delight of Taste (above all the Art of the _Kitchen_, than ever +[111]_Apicius_ knew) seems loudly to call, and kindly invite all her +living Inhabitants (none excepted) who are of gentle Nature, and most +useful, to the same _Hospitable_ and Common-Board, which first she +furnish'd with _Plants_ and _Fruit_, as to their natural and genuine +Pasture; nay, and of the most wild, and savage too _ab origine_: As in +_Paradise_, where, as the _Evangelical_ [112]Prophet adumbrating the +future Glory of the _Catholick Church_, (of which that happy _Garden_ +was the _Antitype_) the _Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and furious Lion, +should eat Grass and Herbs together with the Ox_. But after all, _latet +anguis in herba_, there's a _Snake_ in the Grass; Luxury, and Excess in +our most innocent Fruitions. There was a time indeed when the Garden +furnish'd Entertainments for the most Renown'd Heroes, virtuous and +excellent Persons; till the Blood-thirsty and Ambitious, over-running +the Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd the World, to transplant +its Luxury to its new Mistriss, _Rome_. Those whom heretofore [113]two +Acres of Land would have satisfied, and plentifully maintain'd; had +afterwards their very Kitchens almost as large as their first +Territories: Nor was that enough: Entire [114]_Forests_ and _Parks_, +_Warrens_ and _Fish-Ponds_, and ample Lakes to furnish their Tables, +so as Men could not live by one another without Oppression: Nay, and +to shew how the best, and most innocent things may be perverted; they +chang'd those frugal and _inemptas Dapes_ of their Ancestors, to that +Height and Profusion; that we read of [115]_Edicts_ and _Sumptuary +Laws_, enacted to restrain even the Pride and Excess of _Sallets_. But +so it was not when the _Pease-Field_ spread a Table for the Conquerors +of the World, and their Grounds were cultivated _Vomere laureato, +& triumphali aratore_: The greatest Princes took the _Spade_ and the +_Plough-Staff_ in the same Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Noblest +[116]Families thought it no Dishonour, to derive their Names from +_Plants_ and _Sallet-Herbs_; They arriv'd, I say to that Pitch of +ingrossing all that was but green, and could be vary'd by the Cook +(_Heu quam prodiga ventris_!) that, as _Pliny_ tells us (_non sine +pudore_, not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a _Thistle_ +to dress for his Supper; or what his hungry [117]_Ass_ would not touch, +for fear of pricking his Lips. + +Verily the Luxury of the East ruin'd the greatest Monarchies; first, the +_Persian_, then the _Grecian_, and afterwards _Rome_ her self: By what +Steps, see elegantly describ'd in Old [118]_Gratius_ the _Faliscian_, +deploring his own Age compar'd with the former: + + _O quantum, & quoties decoris frustrata paterni!_ + _At qualis nostris, quam simplex mensa Camillis!_ + _Qui tibi cultus erat post tot, serrane, triumphos?_ + _Ergo illi ex habitu, virtutisq; indole priscæ,_ + _Imposuere orbi Romam caput_:---- + + Neighb'ring Excesses being made thine own, + How art thou fall'n from thine old Renown! + But our _Camilli_ did but plainly fare, + No Port did oft triumphant _Serran_ bear: + Therefore such Hardship, and their Heart so great + Gave _Rome_ to be the World's Imperial Seat. + + +But as these were the Sensual and Voluptuous, who abus'd their Plenty, +spent their Fortunes and shortned their Lives by their Debauches; so +never did they taste the Delicaces, and true Satisfaction of a sober +Repast, and the infinite Conveniences of what a well-stor'd _Garden_ +affords; so elegantly describ'd by the [119]_Naturalist_, as costing +neither Fuel nor Fire to boil, Pains or time to gather and prepare, +_Res expedita & parata semper_: All was so near at hand, readily drest, +and of so easie Digestion; as neither to offend the Brain, or dull the +Senses; and in the greatest Dearth of Corn, a little Bread suffic'd. +In all Events, + + _Panis ematur, Olus, Vini Sextarius adde_ + _Queis humana sibi doleat natura negatis_. + + Bread, Wine and wholsome Sallets you may buy, + What Nature adds besides is Luxury. + + +They could then make an honest Meal, and dine upon a _Sallet_ without +so much as a Grain, of _Exotic Spice_; And the _Potagere_ was in such +Reputation, that she who neglected her _Kitchen-Garden_ (for that was +still the Good-Woman's Province) was never reputed a tolerable Hus-wife: +_Si vespertinus subitò te oppresserit hospes_, she was never surpriz'd, +had all (as we said) at hand, and could in a Trice set forth an handsome +_Sallet_: And if this was Happiness, _Convictus facilis sine arte mensa_ +(as the _Poet_ reckons) it was here in Perfection. In a Word, so +universal was the _Sallet_, that the [120]Un-bloody Shambles (as _Pliny_ +calls them) yielded the [121]_Roman_ State a more considerable Custom +(when there was little more than honest _Cabbage_ and _Worts_) than +almost any thing bessides brought to Market. + +They spent not then so much precious time as afterwards they did, +gorging themselves with _Flesh_ and _Fish_, so as hardly able to rise, +without reeking and reeling from Table. + + [122]----_Vides ut pallidus omnis_ + _Coena desurgat dubia? quin corpus onustum_ + _Hesternis vitiis, animum quoque prægravat unà,_ + _Atque affigit humo divinæ particulam auræ_. + + See but how pale they look, how wretchedly, + With Yesterday's Surcharge disturb'd they be! + Nor Body only suff'ring, but the Mind, + That nobler Part, dull'd and depress'd we find. + Drowsie and unapt for Business, and other nobler Parts of Life. + + +Time was before Men in those golden Days: Their Spirits were brisk and +lively. + + ----_Ubi dicto citius curata sopori_ + _Membra dedit, Vegetus præscripta ad munera surgit_. + + With shorter, but much sweeter Sleep content, + Vigorous and fresh, about their Business went. + + +And Men had their Wits about them; their Appetites were natural, their +Sleep _molli sub arbore_, sound, sweet, and kindly: That excellent +Emperour _Tacitus_ being us'd to say of _Lettuce_, that he did _somnum +se mercari_ when he eat of them, and call'd it a sumptuous Feast, with +a _Sallet_ and a single _Pullet_, which was usually all the Flesh-Meat +that sober Prince eat of; whilst _Maximinus_ (a profess'd Enemy to +_Sallet_) is reported to have scarce been satisfied, with sixty Pounds +of Flesh, and Drink proportionable. + +There was then also less expensive Grandure, but far more true State; +when _Consuls_, great Statesmen (and such as atchiev'd the most renown'd +Actions) sup'd in their _Gardens_; not under costly, gilded, and inlaid +Roofs, but the spreading _Platan_; and drank of the Chrystal Brook, and +by Temperance, and healthy Frugality, maintain'd the Glory of _Sallets_, +_Ah, quanta innocentiore victu_! with what Content and Satisfaction! +Nor, as we said, wanted there Variety; for so in the most blissful +Place, and innocent State of Nature, See how the first _Empress_ of the +World _Regal's_ her _Celestial_ Guest: + + [123]_With sav'ry Fruit of Taste to please_ + _True Appetite, ---- and brings_ + _Whatever Earth's all-bearing Mother yields_ + _----Fruit of all kinds, in Coat_ + _Rough, or smooth-Rind, or bearded Husk, or Shell_. + _Heaps with unsparing Hand: For Drink the Grape_ + _She crushes, inoffensive Moust, and Meaches_ + _From many a Berry, and from sweet Kernel prest,_ + _She temper'd dulcid Creams_.---- + + +Then for the Board. + + ----_Rais'd of a grassy Turf_ + _The Table was, and Mossy Seats had round;_ + _And on the ample Meaths from Side to Side,_ + _All Autumn pil'd: Ah Innocence,_ + _Deserving Paradise_! + + +Thus, the _Hortulan_ Provision of the [124]_Golden Age_ fitted all +_Places_, _Times_ and _Persons_; and when Man is restor'd to that State +again, it will be as it was in the Beginning. + +But now after all (and for Close of all) Let none yet imagine, that +whilst we justifie our present Subject through all the _Topics of +Panegyric_, we would in Favour of the _Sallet_, drest with all its Pomp +and Advantage turn Mankind to _Grass_ again; which were ungratefully +to neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his Health and Comfort: +But by these Noble Instances and Examples, to reproach the _Luxury_ +of the present Age; and by shewing the infinite Blessing and Effects of +Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; with how little Nature, and +a [125]Civil Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, and +within a little Compass, reserving the rest, to the nobler Parts of +Life. And thus of old, + + _Hoc erat in votis, modus agri non ita magnus, _&a._ + +He that was possess'd of a little Spot of Ground, and well=cultivated +_Garden_, with other moderate Circumstances, had [126]_Hæredium_. All +that a modest Man could well desire. Then, + + + [127]_Happy the Man, who from Ambition freed,_ + _A little Garden, little Field does feed._ + _The Field gives frugal Nature what's requird;_ + _The Garden what's luxuriously desir'd:_ + _The specious Evils of an anxious Life,_ + _He leaves to Fools to be their endless Strife_. + + +O Fortunatos nimium bona si sua norint Horticulos! + + +_FINIS_ + + + * * * * * + + + + +_APPENDIX_ + + +Tho' _it was far from our first Intention to charge this small Volume +and Discourse concerning_ Crude Sallets, _with any of the following +Receipts: Yet having since received them from an_ Experienc'd Housewife; +_and that they may possibly be useful to correct, preserve and improve +our_ Acetaria, _we have allow'd them Place as an_ Appendant _Variety +upon Occasion: Nor account we it the least Dishonour to our former +Treatise, that we kindly entertain'd them; since (besides divers +Learned_ Physicians, _and such as have_ ex professo _written_ de Re +Cibaria) _we have the Examples of many other_ [128]Noble _and_ +Illustrious _Persons both among the_ Ancient _and_ Modern. + + +1. Artichoak. _Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin +Slices or Quarters; then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley, +till it is crisp, and the Slices tender; and so dish them with other +fresh melted Butter_. + +_How a_ Poiverade _is made, and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter, +See_ Acetaria. p. 5, 6. + +Ashen-keys. _See_ Pickle. + +Asparagus. _See_ Pickle. + + Beets. \ + Broom. | + Buds. | _See_ Pickle. + Capers. / + +Carrot. _See_ Pudding. + +Champignon. _See_ Mushroom. + + +2. Chessnut. _Roasted under the Embers, or dry fryed, till they shell, +and quit their Husks, may be slit; the Juice of Orange squeezed on a +Lump of hard Sugar dissolv'd; to which add some Claret Wine_. + + Collyflower. \ + Cucumber. | + Elder flowers. | _See_ Pickle. + Flowers. | + Gilly-flowers. / + +Herbs. _See_ Pudding _and_ Tart. + +Limon. _See_ Pickle. + + +3. Mushroom. _Chuse the small, firm and white Buttons_, growing _upon +sweet Pasture_ _Grounds, neither under, or about any Trees: strip off +the upper Skin, and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part; then +slice them in quarters, and cast them in Water a while to cleanse: Then +Boil them in fresh Water, and a little sweet Butter; (some boil them a +quarter of an hour first) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth, +pressing out the Water, and whilst hot, add the Butter; and then boiling +a full Hour (to exhaust the Malignity) shift them in another clean +Water, with Butter, as before till they become sufficiently tender. Then +being taken out, pour upon them as much strong Mutton (or other) Broth +as will cover them, with six Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve Cloves, as +many Pepper-Corns, four small young Onions, half an Handful of Persly +bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an_ Anchovy, _Oysters raw, +or pickl'd; a little Salt, sweet Butter; and so let them stew_. _See_ +Acetar. p. 26. + + +Another. + + +_Prepared, and cleans'd as above, and cast into Fountain-Water, to +preserve them from growing black; Boil them in fresh Water and Salt; and +whilst on the Fire, cast in the_ Mushrooms, _letting them boil till they +become tender: Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes (the Water +being drained from them) in a third Part of White-Wine_ _and Butter, a +small Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion. To these add Broth as before, +with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg_, Anchovies (_one is sufficient_) _Oysters_, +&c. _a small Onion, with the green Stem chopt small; and lastly, some +Mutton-Gravy, rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick, or some_ +Rocombo _Seeds in its stead. Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg with +Vinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper_. + +_In_ France _some (more compendiously being peel'd and prepared) cast +them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs, Spices, and an Onion +they stew them in their own Juice, without any other Water or Liquor at +all; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion, thicken it with a little +Butter, and so eat them_. + + +_In_ Poiverade. + + +_The large Mushrooms well cleansed_, &c. _being cut into quarters and +strewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil'd on the Grid-iron, and eaten +with fresh Butter_. + + +_In_ Powder. + + +_Being fresh gathered, cleans'd_, &c. _and cut in Pieces, stew them +in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a Cloth: Then +putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, set them into the Oven after the +Bread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reserve +them in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you please. For the rest, +see_ Pickle. + + +4. Mustard. _Procure the best and weightiest Seed: cast it into Water +two or three times, till no more of the Husk arise: Then taking out the +sound_ (_which will sink to the Bottom_) _rub it very dry in warm course +Cloths, shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Then +stamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then slice +some Horse-Radish and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar, with a small +Lump of hard Sugar_ (_which some leave out_) _to temper the Flower with, +being drained from the Radish, and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug, with +an Onion, and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is +the more cleanly: But this_ Receit _is improv'd, if instead of Vinegar, +Water only, or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of. And to some of +this_ Mustard _adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon, +you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish_. + +_Note, that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time, and to +keep fresh a competent while. What part of it does not pass the_ Sarse, +_may be beaten again; and you may reserve the Flower in a well closed +Glass, and make fresh Mustard when you please_. _See_ Acetaria, p. 38, +67. + +Nasturtium. _Vide_ Pickle. + +Orange. _See_ Limon _in Pickle_. + + +5. Parsnip. _Take the large Roots, boil them, and strip the Skin: Then +slit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices; Flower and fry them in +fresh Butter till they look brown. The sauce is other sweet Butter +melted. Some strow Sugar and Cinamon upon them. Thus you may accomodate +other Roots_. + +_There is made a Mash or Pomate of this Root, being boiled very tender +with a little fresh Cream; and being heated again, put to it some +Butter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; dish it upon Sippets; +sometimes a few_ Corinths _are added_. + +Peny-royal. _See_ Pudding. + + +Pickles. + + +6. _Pickl'd_ + Artichoaks. _See_ Acetaria, p. 5. + + +7. Ashen-keys. _Gather them young, and boil them in three or four Waters +to extract the Bitterness; and when they feel tender, prepare a Syrup of +sharp White-Wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a little Water. Then boil them on +a very quick Fire, and they will become of a green Colour, fit to be +potted so soon as cold_. + + +8. Asparagus. _Break off the hard Ends, and put them in White-Wine +Vinegar and Salt, well covered with it; and so let them remain for six +Weeks: Then taking them out, boil the Liquor or Pickle, and scum it +carefully. If need be, renew the Vinegar and Salt; and when 'tis cold, +pot them up again. Thus may one keep them the whole Year_. + + +9. Beans. _Take such as are fresh, young, and approaching their full +Growth. Put them into a strong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar and Salt able +to bear an Egg. Cover them very close, and so will they be preserved +twelve Months: But a Month before you use them, take out what Quantity +you think sufficient for your spending a quarter of a Year (for so long +the second Pickle will keep them sound) and boil them in a Skillet of +fresh Water, till they begin to look green, as they soon will do. Then +placing them one by one, (to drain upon a clean course Napkin) range +them Row by Row in a_ Jarr, _and cover them with Vinegar, and what Spice +you please; some Weight being laid upon them to keep them under the +Pickle. Thus you may preserve French-Beans_, Harico's, &c. _the whole +Year about_. + + +10. Broom-Buds _and_ Pods. _Make a strong Pickle, as above; stir it very +well, till the Salt be quite dissolved, clearing off the Dregs and Scum. +The next Day pour it from the Bottom; and having rubbed the Buds dry pot +them up in a Pickle-Glass, which should be frequently shaken, till they +sink under it, and keep it well stopt and covered_. + +_Thus may you-pickle any other_ Buds. _Or as follows:_ + + +11. _Of_ Elder. _Take the largest_ Buds, _and boil them in a Skillet +with Salt and Water, sufficient only to scald them; and so (being taken +off the Fire) let them remain covered till Green; and then pot them with +Vinegar and Salt, which has had one Boil up to cleanse it_. + + +12. Collyflowers. _Boil them till they fall in Pieces: Then with some of +the Stalk, and worst of the Flower, boil it in a part of the Liquor till +pretty strong: Then being taken off, strain it; and when settled, clear +it from the Bottom. Then with_ Dill, _Gross Pepper, a pretty Quantity of +Salt, when cold, add as much Vinegar as will make it sharp, and pour all +upon the_ Collyflower; _and so as to keep them from touching one +another; which is prevented by putting Paper close to them_. + +Cornelians _are pickled like_ Olives. + + +13. Cowslips. _Pick very clean; to each Pound of Flowers allow about one +Pound of Loaf Sugar, and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar, which boil to a +Syrup, and cover it scalding-hot. Thus you may pickle_ Clove-gillyflowers, +Elder, _and other Flowers, which being eaten alone, make a very agreeable +Salletine_. + + +14. Cucumbers. _Take the_ Gorkems, _or smaller_ Cucumbers; _put them +into_ Rape-Vinegar, _and boyl, and cover them so close, as none of the +Vapour may issue forth; and also let them stand till the next day: Then +boil them in fresh White-Wine Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, +white Pepper, and a little Salt, (according to discretion) straining the +former Liquor from the_ Cucumbers; _and so place them in a Jarr, or wide +mouthed Glass, laying a litle Dill and Fennel between each Rank; and +covering all with the fresh scalding-hot Pickle, keep all close, and +repeat it daily, till you find them sufficiently green_. + +_In the same sort_ Cucumbers _of the largest size, being peel'd and cut +into thin Slices, are very delicate_. + + +Another. + + +_Wiping them clean, put them in a very strong Brine of Water and Salt, +to soak two or three Hours or longer, if you see Cause: Then range +them in the_ Jarr _or_ Barrellet _with Herbs and Spice as usual; and +cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts Beer-Vinegar, and one of +White-Wine Vinegar: Let all be very well closed. A Fortnight after scald +the Pickle again, and repeat it, as above: Thus they will keep longer, +and from being so soon sharp, eat crimp and well tasted, tho' not +altogether so green. You may add a Walnut-Leaf, Hysop, Costmary_, &c. +_and as some do, strow on them a little Powder of_ Roch-Allom, _which +makes them firm and eatable within a Month or six Weeks after_. + + +Mango _of_ Cucumbers. + + +_Take the biggest_ Cucumbers _(and most of the_ Mango _size) that look +green: Open them on the Top or Side; and scooping out the Seeds, supply +their Place with a small Clove of Garlick, or some_ Roccombo _Seeds. +Then put them into an Earthen Glazed_ Jarr, _or wide-mouth'd Glass, with +as much White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar +with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c. and when off the Fire, as much Salt as +will make a gentle Brine; and so pour all boyling-hot on the_ Cucumbers, +_covering them close till the next Day. Then put them with a little +Dill, and Pickle into a large Skillet; and giving them a Boyl or two, +return them into the Vessel again: And when all is cold, add a good +Spoonful of the best_ Mustard, _keeping it from the Air, and so have you +an excellent_ Mango. _When you have occasion to take any out, make use +of a Spoon, and not your Fingers_. + +Elder. _See_ Buds. + +Flowers. _See_ Cowslips, _and for other_ Flowers. + + +15. Limon. _Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon, Boil and shift them in +several Waters, till they are pretty tender: Then drain and wipe them +dry with a clean Cloth; and make a Pickle with a little White-Wine +Vinegar, one part to two of fair Water, and a little Sugar, carefully +scum'd. When all is cold, pour it on the peel'd Rind, and cover it all +close in a convenient Glass Jarr. Some make a Syrup of Vinegar, +White-Wine and Sugar not too thick, and pour it on hot_. + + +16. Melon. _The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as_ +Cucumber, _make an excellent Sallet_. + + +17. Mushrom. _Take a Quart of the best White-Wine Vinegar; as much of +White-Wine, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg a pretty Quantity, beaten together: Let +the Spice boil therein to the Consumption of half; then taken off, and +being cold, pour the Liquour on the_ Mushroms; _but leave out the boiled +Spice, and cast in of the same sort of Spice whole, the Nutmeg only slit +in Quarters, with some Limon-Peel, white Pepper; and if you please a +whole raw Onion, which take out again when it begins to perish_. + + +Another. + + +_The_ Mushroms _peel'd_, &c. _throw them into Water, and then into +a Sauce-Pan, with some long Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a quarter'd Nutmeg, +with an Onion, Shallot, or Roccombo-Seed, and a little Salt. Let them +all boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire: Then take out +and cold, with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice, boil them in some +White-Wine; which (being cold) cast upon the_ Mushroms, _and fill up +the Pot with the best White-Wine, a Bay-Leaf or two, and an Handful of +Salt: Then cover them with the Liquor; and if for long keeping, pour +Sallet-Oil over all, tho' they will be preserved a Year without it_. + +_They are sometimes boil'd in Salt and Water, with some Milk, and laying +them in the Colender to drain, till cold, and wiped dry, cast them into +the Pickle with the White-Wine, Vinegar and Salt, grated Nutmeg, Ginger +bruised, Cloves, Mace, white Pepper and Limon-Peel; pour the Liquor on +them cold without boiling_. + + +18. Nasturtium Indicum. _Gather the Buds before they open to flower; lay +them in the Shade three or four Hours, and putting them into an Earthen +Glazed Vessel, pour good Vinegar on them, and cover it with a Board. +Thus letting it stand for eight or ten Days: Then being taken out, and +gently press'd, cast them into fresh Vinegar, and let them so remain as +long as before. Repeat this a third time, and Barrel them up with +Vinegar and a little Salt_. + +Orange. _See_ Limon. + + +20. Potato. _The small green Fruit (when about the size of the Wild +Cherry) being pickled, is an agreeable Sallet. But the Root being +roasted under the Embers, or otherwise, open'd with a Knife, the Pulp +is butter'd in the Skin, of which it will take up a good Quantity, and +is seasoned with a little Salt and Pepper. Some eat them with Sugar +together in the Skin, which has a pleasant Crimpness. They are also +stew'd and bak'd in Pyes_, &c. + + +21. Purselan. _Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan; then cover them with +Beer-Vinegar and Water, keeping them down with a competent Weight to +imbibe, three Days: Being taken out, put them into a Pot with as much +White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again; and close the Lid with +Paste to keep in the Steam: Then set them on the Fire for three or four +Hours, often shaking and stirring them: Then open the Cover, and turn +and remove those Stalks which lie at the Bottom, to the Top, and boil +them as before, till they are all of a Colour. When all is cold, pot +them with fresh White-Wine Vinegar, and so you may preserve them the +whole Year round_. + + +22. Radish. _The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl'd, are a pretty +Sallet_. + + +23. Sampier. _Let it be gathered about_ Michaelmas _(or the Spring) and +put two or three hours into a Brine of Water and Salt; then into a clean +Tin'd Brass Pot, with three parts of strong White-Wine Vinegar, and one +part of Water and Salt, or as much as will cover the_ Sampier, _keeping +the Vapour from issuing out, by pasting down the Pot-lid, and so hang +it over the Fire for half an Hour only. Being taken off, let it remain +covered till it be cold; and then put it up into small Barrels or Jars, +with the Liquor, and some fresh Vinegar, Water and Salt; and thus it +will keep very green. If you be near the Sea, that Water will supply the +place of Brine. This is the_ Dover _Receit_. + + +24. Walnuts. _Gather the Nuts young, before they begin to harden, but +not before the Kernel is pretty white: Steep them in as much Water as +will more than cover them. Then set them on the Fire, and when the water +boils, and grows black, pour it off, and supply it with fresh, boiling +it as before, and continuing to shift it till it become clear, and the_ +Nuts _pretty tender: Then let them be put into clean Spring Water for +two Days, changing it as before with fresh, two or three times within +this space: Then lay them to drain, and dry on a clean course Cloth, +and put them up in a Glass Jar, with a few Walnut Leaves, Dill, Cloves, +Pepper, whole Mace and Salt; strowing them under every Layer of Nuts, +till the Vessel be three quarters full; and lastly, replenishing it with +the best Vinegar, keep it well covered; and so they will be fit to spend +within three Months_. + + +To make a _Mango_ with them. + + +_The green Nuts prepared as before, cover the Bottom of the Jar with +some Dill, an Handful of Bay-Salt_, &c. _and then a Bed of Nuts; +and so_ stratum _upon_ stratum, _as above, adding to the Spice some_ +Roccombo-Seeds; _and filling the rest of the Jar with the best +White-Wine Vinegar, mingled with the best Mustard; and to let them +remain close covered, during two or three Months time: And thus have you +a more agreeable_ Mango _than what is brought us from abroad; which you +may use in any Sauce, and is of it self a rich Condiment_. + + +_Thus far_ Pickles. + + +25. Potage Maigre. _Take four Quarts of Spring-Water, two or three +Onions stuck with some Cloves, two or three Slices of Limon Peel, Salt, +whole white Pepper, Mace, a Raze or two of Ginger, tied up in a fine +Cloth (Lawn or Tiffany) and make all boil for half an Hour; Then having +Spinage, Sorrel, white Beet-Chard, a little Cabbage, a few small Tops of +Cives, wash'd and pick'd clean, shred them well, and cast them into the +Liquor, with a Pint of blue Pease boil'd soft and strain'd, with a Bunch +of sweet Herbs, the Top and Bottom of a_ French Roll; _and so suffer it +to boil during three Hours; and then dish it with another small_ French +Roll, _and Slices about the Dish: Some cut Bread in slices, and frying +them brown (being dried) put them into the Pottage just as it is going +to be eaten_. + +_The same Herbs, clean wash'd, broken and pulled asunder only, being put +in a close cover'd Pipkin, without any other Water or Liquor, will stew +in their own Juice and Moisture. Some add an whole Onion, which after a +while should be taken out, remembring to season it with Salt and Spice, +and serve it up with Bread and a Piece of fresh Butter_. + + +26. Pudding _of_ Carrot. _Pare off some of the Crust of Manchet-Bread, +and grate of half as much of the rest as there is of the Root, which +must also be grated: Then take half a Pint of fresh Cream or New Milk, +half a Pound of fresh Butter, six new laid Eggs (taking out three of the +Whites) mash and mingle them well with the Cream and Butter: Then put +in the grated Bread and Carrot, with near half a Pound of Sugar; and a +little Salt; some grated Nutmeg and beaten Spice; and pour all into a +convenient Dish or Pan, butter'd, to keep the Ingredients from sticking +and burning; set it in a quick Oven for about an Hour, and so have you +a Composition for any_ Root-Pudding. + + +27. Penny-royal. _The Cream, Eggs, Spice_, &c. _as above, but not so +much Sugar and Salt: Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and Marigold +flower_, &c. _very well shred, and mingle with the Cream, Eggs_, &c. +_four spoonfuls of Sack; half a Pint more of Cream, and almost a Pound +of Beef-Suet chopt very small, the Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf, and +stirring all well together, put it into a Bag flower'd and tie it fast. +It will be boil'd within an Hour: Or may be baked in the Pan like the_ +Carrot-Pudding. _The sauce is for both, a little Rose-water, less +Vinegar, with Butter beaten together and poured on it sweetned with the +Sugar Caster_. + +_Of this Plant discreetly dried, is made a most wholsom and excellent +Tea_. + + +28. _Of_ Spinage. _Take a sufficient Quantity of_ Spinach, _stamp and +strain out the Juice; put to it grated Manchet, the Yolk of as many Eggs +as in the former Composition of the_ Carrot-Pudding; _some Marrow shred +small, Nutmeg, Sugar, some Corinths, (if you please) a few Carroways, +Rose, or Orange-flower Water (as you best like) to make it grateful. +Mingle all with a little boiled Cream; and set the Dish or Pan in the +Oven, with a Garnish of Puff-Paste. It will require but very moderate +Baking. Thus have you Receits for_ Herb Puddings. + + +29. Skirret-Milk _Is made by boiling the Roots tender, and the Pulp +strained out, put into Cream or new Milk boiled, with three or four +Yolks of Eggs, Sugar, large Mace and other Spice_, &c. _And thus is +composed any other Root-Milk_. _See_ Acetar. p. 42. + + +30. Tansie. _Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biscuits, put +them into half a Pint of Cream; with twelve fresh Eggs, four of the +Whites cast out, strain the rest, and break them with two Spoonfuls of +Rose-water, a little Salt and Sugar, half a grated Nutmeg: And when +ready for the Pan, put almost a Pint of the Juice of Spinach, Cleaver, +Beets, Corn-Sallet, Green Corn, Violet, or Primrose tender Leaves, +(for of any of these you may take your choice) with a very small Sprig +of Tansie, and let it be fried so as to look green in the Dish, with a +Strew of Sugar and store of the Juice of Orange: some affect to have +it fryed a little brown and crisp_. + + +31. Tart _of_ Herbs. _An_ Herb-Tart _is made thus: Boil fresh Cream or +Milk, with a little grated Bread or_ Naples-Biscuit _(which is better) +to thicken it; a pretty Quantity of Chervile, Spinach, Beete (or what +other Herb you please) being first par-boil'd and chop'd. Then add_ +Macaron, _or Almonds beaten to a Paste, a little sweet Butter, the Yolk +of five Eggs, three of the Whites rejected. To these some add Corinths +plump'd in Milk, or boil'd therein, Sugar, Spice at Discretion, and +stirring it all together over the Fire, bake it in the Tart-Pan_. + + +32. Thistle. _Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the_ +Milky-Thistle, _about_ May, _when they are young and tender: wash and +scrape them, and boil them in Water, with a little Salt, till they are +very soft, and so let them lie to drain. They are eaten with fresh +Butter melted not too thin, and is a delicate and wholsome Dish. Other +Stalks of the same kind may so be treated, as the_ Bur, _being tender +and disarmed of its Prickles_, &c. + + +33. Trufles, _and other_ Tubers, _and_ Boleti, _are roasted whole in +the_ Embers; _then slic'd and stew'd in strong Broth with Spice_, &c. +_as_ Mushroms _are. Vide_ Acetar. p. 28. + + +34. Turnep. _Take their Stalks (when they begin to run up to seed) as +far as they will easily break downwards: Peel and tie them in Bundles. +Then boiling them as they do_ Sparagus, _are to be eaten with melted +Butter. Lastly_, + + +35. Minc'd, _or_ Sallet-all-sorts. + +_Take Almonds blanch'd in cold Water, cut them round and thin, and +so leave them in the_ _Water; Then have pickl'd Cucumbers, Olives, +Cornelians, Capers, Berberries, Red-Beet, Buds of_ Nasturtium, _Broom_, +&c. _Purslan-stalk, Sampier, Ash-Keys, Walnuts, Mushrooms (and almost +of all the pickl'd Furniture) with Raisins of the Sun ston'd, Citron +and Orange-Peel, Corinths (well cleansed and dried)_ &c. _mince them +severally (except the Corinths) or all together; and strew them over +with any Candy'd Flowers, and so dispose of them in the same Dish both +mixt, and by themselves. To these add roasted_ Maroons, Pistachios, +Pine-Kernels, _and of Almonds four times as much as of the rest, with +some Rose-water. Here also come in the Pickled Flowers and Vinegar in +little_ China _Dishes. And thus have you an Universal_ Winter-Sallet, +_or an_ All sort _in Compendium, fitted for a City Feast, and +distinguished from the_ Grand-Sallet: _which shou'd consist of the Green +blanch'd and unpickled, under a stately_ Pennash _of_ Sellery, _adorn'd +with Buds and Flowers_. + + +_And thus have we presented you a Taste of our_ English Garden +Housewifry _in the matter of_ Sallets: _And though some of them may be +Vulgar, (as are most of the best things;) Yet she was willing to impart +them, to shew the Plenty, Riches and Variety of the_ Sallet-Garden: +_And to justifie what has been asserted of the Possibility of living +(not unhappily) on_ Herbs _and_ Plants, _according to_ Original _and_ +Divine Institution, _improved by Time and long Experience. And if we have +admitted_ Mushroms _among the rest (contrary to our Intention, and for +Reasons given_, Acet. p. 43.) _since many will by no means abandon them, +we have endeavoured to preserve them from those pernicious Effects which +are attributed to, and really in them: We cannot tell indeed whether +they were so treated and accommodated for the most Luxurious of the_ +Cæsarean Tables, _when that Monarchy was in its highest Strain of_ +Epicurism, _and ingross'd this_ Haugout _for their second Course; whilst +this we know, that 'tis but what_ Nature _affords all her Vagabonds +under every Hedge_. + +_And now, that our_ Sallets _may not want a Glass of generous Wine of +the same Growth with the rest of the Garden to recommend it, let us have +your Opinion of the following_. + + +Cowslip-Wine. _To every Gallon of Water put two Pounds of_ Sugar; _boil +it an Hour, and set it to cool: Then spread a good brown_ Toast _on both +Sides with Yeast: But before you make use of it, beat some Syrup of_ +Citron _with it, an Ounce and half of Syrup to each Gallon of Liquor: +Then put in the_ Toast _whilst hot, to assist its_ Fermentation, _which +will cease in two Days; during which time cast in the_ Cowslip-Flowers +_(a little bruised, but not much stamp'd) to the Quantity of half a +Bushel to ten Gallons (or rather three Pecks) four_ Limons _slic'd, with +the Rinds and all. Lastly, one Pottle of_ White _or_ Rhenish Wine; _and +then after two Days, tun it up in a sweet Cask. Some leave out all the +Syrup_. + +_And here, before we conclude, since there is nothing of more constant +Use than good Vinegar; or that has so near an Affinity to all our_ +Acetaria, _we think it not amiss to add the following (much approved) +Receit_. + +Vinegar. _To every Gallon of Spring Water let there be allowed three +Pounds of_ Malaga-Raisins: _Put them in an Earthen Jarr, and place them +where they may have the hottest Sun, from_ May till Michaelmas: _Then +pressing them well, Tun the Liquor up in a very strong Iron-Hooped +Vessel to prevent its bursting. It will appear very thick and muddy when +newly press'd, but will refine in the Vessel, and be as clear as Wine. +Thus let it remain untouched for three Months, before it be drawn off, +and it will prove Excellent_ Vinegar. + +Butter. Butter _being likewise so frequent and necessary an Ingredient +to divers of the foregoing_ Appendants: _It should be carefully melted, +that it turn not to an Oil; which is prevented by melting it leisurely, +with a little fair Water at the Bottom of the Dish or Pan; and by +continual shaking and stirring, kept from boiling or over-heating, which +makes it rank_. + +_Other rare and exquisite_ Liquors _and Teas (Products of our_ Gardens +_only) we might super-add, which we leave to our_ Lady Housewives, +_whose Province indeed all this while it is_. + + +_THE END_ + + + * * * * * + + + + +The Table + + + _Abstemious Persons who eat no Flesh, nor were under Vows_, 104 + + Abstersives, 42 + + ACETARIA, _Criticisms on the Word, how they differ from Olera, &c._, 1 + + Achilles, 77 + + Acids, 63 + + Adam _and_ Eve _lived on Vegetables and Plants_, 94 + + Africans _eat_ Capsicum Indicum, 34 + + _Aged Persons_, 44; + _Sallet-Eaters_, 80 + + _Agues_, 81 + + _Air_, 80 + + Alliaria, 19 + + _Ale_, 15 + + Alleluja, 47 + + Alexanders, 5 + + Allium, 18 + + _Altar dedicated to Lettuce_, 21 + + Anagallis, 9 + + Annæus Serenus _poisoned by Mushroms_, 27 + + _Anatomy, Comparative_, 90 + + Antecoenia, 74 + + Antediluvians _eat no Flesh for_ 2000 _years_, 80 + + Aparine, 12 + + _Aperitives_, 10 + + _Appetite_, 21; + _How to subdue_, 98 + + Apician _Luxury_, 103 + + Apium, 35; + Italicum, 41 + + _Aromatics_, 13 + + _Artichoaks_, 5 + + Arum Theophrasti, 48 + + Ascalonia, 41 + + Ascetics, 106 + + _Asparagus_, 43; + _preferable to the_ Dutch, 43; + _how to cover in Winter without Dung_, 87 + + Asphodel, 23 + + _Astringents_, 9 + + _Asthmatical_, 31 + + Assa foetida, 52 + + Atriplex, 32 + + Augustus, 21 + + _Autumn_, 71 + + +B. + + Barlæus's _Description Poetic of a Sallet Collation_, 113 + + _Basil_, 7 + + _Baulm_, 7 + + _Beere_, 15 + + _Beet_, 7, 79 + + _Benzoin_, 51 + + _Bile_, 36 + + _Blite_, 8 + + _Blood to purifie_, 8; + _Eating it prohibited_, 100 + + Boletus, 26 + + _Books of_ Botany, 54; + _to be read with caution where they write of Edule Plants_, ib. + + _Borrage_, 8 + + _Bowels_, 58 + + _Brain_, 7, 38 + + Bramins, 97 + + Brandy _and Exotic Liquors pernicious_, 93 + + _Bread and Sallet sufficient for Life_, 2; + _Made of Turnips_, 46 + + _Breast_, 19 + + Broccoli, 10 + + _Brook lime_, 9 + + _Broth_, 19 + + _Brute Animals much healthier than Men, why_, 91 + + _Buds_, 9 + + _Buglos_, 9 + + Bulbo Castanum, 15 + + Buphthalmum, 15 + + _Burnet_, 35 + + _Butter_, 64 + + +C. + + Cabbage, 10 + + Capsicum Indicum, 34 + + Cardialgia, 34 + + Carduus Sativus, 5 + + Cardon, Spanish, 6 + + _Carnivorous Animals_, 89 + + _Carrots_, 11 + + _Cattel relish of their Pasture and Food_, 86; + _Vide Fowl_. + + _Cauly flower_, 11 + + Cepæ, 31 + + _Cephalics_, 30 + + Chæriphyllum, 12 + + Champignons, 26; + _Vide_ Mushroms. + + _Chastity_, 21 + + _Children chuse to eat Fruit before other Meat_, 94 + + _Christians abstaining from eating Flesh_, 97 + + _Choler_, 20 + + _Church Catholics Future Glory predicted_, 115 + + Cibarium, 63 + + Cicuta, 48 + + Cinara, 5 + + _Clary_, 12 + + Claudius Cæsar, 27 + + _Claver_, 12 + + _Cleansing_, 44 + + _Climate_, 80 + + Cochlearia, 41; + _vide Scurvy-Grass_. + + _Cooks_, 77; + _Physicians to Emperors and Popes_, 55; + _vide_ Heroes. + + _Collation of Sallet, Extemporary_, 73 + + _Cold_, 16 + + _Cooling_, 33 + + _Complexion_, 84 + + _Composing, and Composer of Sallets_, 71 + + _Compotation_, 74 + + _Concession to eat Flesh, since which Mens Lives shortned_, 97 + + _Concoction_, 18 + + Condiments, 64; + _vide_ Sauce. + + _Conscience_, 98 + + _Consent; vide Harmony_. + + _Constitution of Body_, 57 + + Consuls _and Great Persons supt in their Garden_, 121 + + _Contemplative Persons_, 104 + + Convictus Facilis, 117 + + _Cordials_, 7 + + _Coriander_, 49 + + _Corrago_, 9 + + _Correctives_, 82 + + _Corn, what Ground most proper for it_, 86 + + _Corn Sallet_, 12 + + _Corroboratives_, 52 + + _Corpulency_, 82 + + _Cowslips_, 13 + + _Cresses_, 13 + + Crithmum, 40 + + _Crudities_, 26 + + _Cruelty in butchering Animals for Food_, 99 + + _Cucumber_, 13 + + _Culture, its Effects_, 42 + + _Custom_, 81; + _Of Sallet Herbs, how great a Revenue to_ Rome, 119 + + +D. + + _Daffodil_, 48 + + _Daisie_, 15 + + _Dandelion_, 15 + + Dapes Inemptæ, 116 + + Dauci, 11 + + _Decay in Nature, none_, 106 + + _Decoction_, 19 + + _Deobstructions_, 5 + + Deorum filii, 26 + + _Distinction of Meats abrogated_, 94 + + _Detersives_, 8 + + _Dishes for Sallets_, 69 + + _Dissimilar Parts of Animals require Variety of Food_, 89 + + _Diuretics_, 19 + + _Dock_, 15 + + _Dogs Mercury_, 54 + + Domitian _Emp._, 74 + + Draco herba, 45 + + _Dressing of Sallets_, vide _Sallet_. + + _Dry Plants_, 17 + + _Dung_, 85; + _Sallets rais'd on it undigested_, 86 + + +E. + + Earth, _whether much altered since the Flood_, 81; + _about great Cities, produces rank and unwholsome Sallets_, 85 + + _Earth-Nuts_, 15 + + _Eggs_, 68 + + _Elder_, 16 + + _Emollients_, 15 + + _Endive_, 16 + + _Epicurism_, 99 + + _Eremit's_, vide _Monks_. + + _Eruca_, 39 + + _Eructation_, 38 + + Eruditæ gulæ, 77 + + _Escalons_, 31 + + _Eternity_, vide _Patriarchs_. + + Eupeptics, 58 + + Euphrosyne, 9 + + _Excess_, 72 + + _Exhilarate_, 7 + + _Exotic Drinks and Sauces dangerous_, 90 + + _Experience_, 83 + + _Eyes_, 7, vide _Sight_. + + +F. + + Fabrorum prandia, 8 + + _Fainting_, 47 + + _Families enobl'd by names of Sallet Plants_, 20 + + _Farcings_, 35 + + Fascicule, 70 + + _Fevers_, 20 + + _Felicity of the Hortulan Life_, 122 + + _Fennel_, 17 + + _Flatulents_, 33 + + Flesh, _none eaten during 2000 years. Flesh eaters not so ingenious as + Sallet eaters: unapt for Study and Bussiness; shortens Life; how all + Flesh is Grass_, 94 + + _Flowers_, 17 + + Foliatorum ordo, 105 + + _Fowl relish of their Food_, 86 + + _Food. No Necessity of different Food_, 90; + _The simplest best_, 92; + _Man's original Food_, 93 + + _Fools unfit to gather Sallets contrary to the_ Italian _Proverb_, 61 + + _Friers_, vide _Monks_. + + Frigidæ Mensæ, 82 + + _Frugality of the ancient_ Romans, _&c._, 21 + + _Fruit_, 75; + _not reckon'd among Sallets_, 76; + _not degenerated since the Flood, where industry is us'd_, 104 + + Fugaces fructus, 74 + + Fungus, 26, vide _Mushroms_. + + Fungus reticularis, 27 + + _Furniture and Ingredients of Sallets_, 61 + + +G. + + Galen _Lover of Lettuce_, 21 + + _Gardiner's happy Life_, 113; + _Entertain Heroes and great Persons_, 115 + + _Garlick_, 18 + + _Garnishing_, 8 + + _Gatherers of Sallets should be skilful Herbarists_, 71 + + Gemmæ, 9, _vide_ Buds. + + _Gerkems_, 15, _vide Cucumber_. + + _Ginny-Pepper_, 78 + + _Goats beard_, 18 + + _Golden Age_, 99 + + Gordian _Emp._, 82 + + Gramen Amygdalosum, 48 + + _Grand Sallet_, 42 + + _Grass_, 82 + + _Grillus_, 56 + + _Gymnosophists_, 97 + + +H. + + _Habits difficult to overcome, applied to Flesh-Eaters_, 98 + + Hæredium _of old_, 123 + + Halimus, 36 + + _Harmony in mixing Sallet Ingredients as Notes in Musick_, 60 + + Hautgout, 77 + + _Head_, 40, _vide Cephalicks_. + + _Heart_, 42, _vide Cordials_. + + Heliotrop, 49 + + _Hemlock_, 54 + + _Herbaceous Animals know by instinct what Herbs are proper for them + better than Men_, 56; + _and excel them in most of the senses_, ib. + + _Herbals_, vide _Books_. + + _Herbs, crude, whether wholsome_, 80; + _What proper for Sallets_, 70; + _Their Qualities and Vertues to be examined_, 82; + _Herby Diet most Natural_, 98 + + Heroes _of old skill'd in Cookery_, 77 + + Hippocrates _condemns Radish_, 37; + _That Men need only Vegetables_, 106 + + Hipposelinum, 5 + + Holyhoc, 24 + + _Honey_, 14 + + _Hops_, 19 + + Horarii fructus, 74 + + Horminum, 12 + + _Horses not so diseased as Men_, 91; + _Recompens'd by some Masters for long Service_, 91 + + _Horse-Radish_, 38 + + _Hortulan Provision most plentiful of any, advantageous, universal, + natural, &c._, 110 + + _Hot Plants_, 8 + + _Hot Beds, how unwholsome for Salleting_, 85 + + _House-wife had charge of the Kitchin Garden_, 119 + + _Humours_, 57 + + _Hypochondria_, 9 + + _Hysop_, 19 + + +I. + + _Ilander_, 58; + _obnoxious to the Scorbute_, ib. + + _Indigestion_, 38 + + _Ingredients_, 4, vide _Furniture_. + + _Insects_, 28 + + Intuba Sativa, 16 + + Isrælites _Love of Onions_, 32 + + +J. + + _Jack-by-the-Hedge_, 19 + + John _the_ Baptist, 106 + + Justin Martyr _concerning the eating of Blood_, 101 + + +K. + + _Knife for cutting Sallets_, 68 + + _Kitchen Garden_, 119, vide Potagere. + + +L. + + Lapathum, 24 + + Laserpitium, 51 + + Latet anguis in herba, 115 + + _Laws_, 116 + + _Laxatives_, 7 + + _Leeks_, 20 + + Legumena, 73 + + _Lettuce_, 20 + + _Limon_, 23 + + _Liver_, 13 + + _Longævity_, 81 + + Lotophagi, 106 + + _Lungs_, 20 + + Lupulus, 19 + + _Luxury_, 81 + + Lysimachia Seliquosa glabra, 49 + + Lyster, _Dr._, 56 + + +M. + + Macarons, 49 + + Majoran, 19 + + _Mallows_, 23 + + Malvæ folium sanctissimum, ib. + + _Man before the Fall knew the Vertues of Plants_, 83; + _Unbecoming his Dignity to butcher the innocent Animal for Food_, 94; + _Not by nature carnivorous_, 111; + _Not lapsed so soon as generally thought_, 95 + + _Marygold_, 19 + + _Masculine Vigour_, 52 + + Materia medica, 65 + + _Materials for Sallets_, vide _Furniture_. + + Maximinus _an egregious Glutton, Sallet-hater_, 121 + + _Meats commend not to God_, 99 + + _Medals of_ Battus _with_ Silphium _on the reverse_, 51 + + Melissa, 7 + + _Melon, how cultivated by the Ancients_, 24 + + _Memory to assist_, 7 + + _Mints_, 25 + + Mithacus, _a Culinary Philosopher_, 77 + + _Mixture_, 57 + + _Moist_, 9 + + _Monks and Friers perstring'd for their idle unprofitable Life_, 107 + & _seqq._ + + Morocco _Ambassador_, 43; _Lover of Sow-thistles_. + + Mortuorum cibi _Mushroms_, 20 + + Mosaical _Customs_, 94; + Moses _gave only a summary account of the Creation, sufficient for + instruction, not Curiosity_, 102 + + _Mushroms_, 26; + _Pernicious Accidents of eating them_, 26; + _How produced artificially_, 29 + + _Mustard_, 30 + + _Myrrh_, 12 + + _Myrtil-Berries_, 35 + + +N. + + Napus, 46 + + Nasturtium, 13; + Indicum, 41 + + _Nature invites all to Sallets_, 111 + + Nepenthes, 9 + + _Nerves_, 54 + + _Nettle_, 30 + + _Nigard_, 61 + + _Nourishing_, 5 + + +O. + + _Obstructions_, 16 + + _Ocimum_, 7 + + Olera, _what properly, how distinguish'd from Acetaria_, 1, 2 + + Oluscula, 4 + + _Onion_, 31; + _What vast Quantities spent in_ Egypt, 32 + + _Opening_, 16 + + Orach, 32 + + _Orange_, 23 + + Ornithogallon, 48 + + Oxalis, 42 + + Oxylapathum, 15 + + _Oyl, how to choose_, 63; + _Its diffusive Nature_, 69 + + +P. + + _Painters_, 50 + + _Palpitation_, 47 + + _Palsie_, 30 + + _Panacea_, 10 + + Paradisian _Entertainment_, 122 + + Paralysis, 13 + + _Parsnip_, 33 + + Pastinaca Sativa, 11 + + _Patriarchs_, 93; + _Their Long Lives a Shadow of Eternity_, 96 + + _Peach said to be Poison in_ Persia, _a Fable_, 87 + + _Peas_, 33 + + _Pectorals_, 58 + + _Pepper_, 33; + _Beaten too small, hurtful to the Stomach_, 34 + + _Persly_, 35; + _Sacred to the Defunct_, ib. + + _Philosophers_, 56 + + _Phlegm_, 30 + + _Pickle_, 72; + _What Sallet Plants proper for Pickles_, ib., _vide Appendix_. + + _Pig-Nuts_, 28 + + _Pimpernel_, 9 + + _Plants, their Vertue_, 59; + _Variety_, 114; + _Nourishment_, 83; + _No living at all without them_, 110; + _Plants infect by looking on_, 57; + _When in prime_, 71; + _how altered by the Soil and Culture_, 84; + _Not degenerated since the Flood_, 105 + + Platonic _Tables_, 97 + + _Pleurisie_, 81 + + _Poiverade_, 7 + + _Poppy_, 48 + + Porrum, 20 + + Postdiluvians, 93 + + _Potage_, 5 + + Potagere, 119 + + _Pot-Herbs_, 19 + + _Poyson_, 18 + + _Præcoce Plants not so wholsome artificially rais'd_, 85 + + _Preparation to the dressing of Sallets_, 10 + + _Prodigal_, 61 + + _Pugil_, 70 + + _Punishment_, 18 + + _Purslan_, 36 + + _Putrefaction_, 33 + + Pythagoras, 97 + + +Q. + + _Quality and Vertue of Plants_, 53. _See Plants_. + + +R. + + _Radish_, 37; + _of Gold dedicated at_ Delphi, 37; + Moschius _wrote a whole Volume in praise of them_, ib.; + Hippocrates _condemns them_, ib. + + Raphanus Rusticanus _Horse Radish_, 38 + + Radix Lunaria, 48; + Personata, 49 + + Ragout, 28 + + _Rampion_, 39 + + _Rapum_, 46 + + _Ray, Mr._, 55 + + _Refreshing_, 13 + + _Restaurative_, 5 + + _Rocket_, 39 + + _Roccombo_, 18 + + Roman _Sallet_, 112; + _Lux_, 115 + + _Rosemary_, 39 + + _Roots_, 37 + + _Rhue_, 49 + + +S. + + + _Saffron_, 68 + + _Sage_, 39 + + _Sallets, what, how improved, whence so called_, 3; + _Ingredients_, 4; + _Variety and Store above what the Ancients had_, 112; + _Bills of Fare_, 112; + _Skill in choosing, gathering, composing and dressing_, 48; + _found in the Crops of Foul_, 62; + _what formerly in use, now abdicated_, 49; + _extemporary Sallets_, 87; + _Whether best to begin or conclude with Sallets_, 73 + + Salade de Preter, 13 + + _Salt_, 64; + _What best for Sallets_, 64; + _Salts Essential, and of Vegetables_, 65 + + Sambucus, 16 + + _Sampier_, 40 + + _Sanguine_, 36 + + Sarcophagists, 56 + + _Sauce_, 39 + + _Savoys_, 11 + + _Scallions_, 41 + + Scorbute, vide _Scurvy_. + + _Scurvy-Grass_, 41 + + _Scurvy_, 9 + + _Season_, 71 + + _Seasoning_, 79, vide _Sallet_. + + Sedum minus, 45, _vide_ Stone-Crop. + + _Sellery_, 41 + + Seneca, 98 + + _Shambles_, 77 + + _Sight_, 50, vide _Eyes_. + + Silphium, 50; + _How precious and sacred_, 51 + + _Simples_, 49 + + _Sinapi_, 30 + + _Sisarum_, 42 + + _Skirrits_, ib. + + _Sleep, to procure_, 21 + + _Smallage_, 41 + + _Smut in Wheat_, 86 + + Syrenium Vulgare, 5 + + _Snails, safe Tasters_, 56 + + _Sonchus_, 43 + + _Sordidness_, 87 + + _Sorrel_, 42 + + _Sow-thistle_, vide Sonchus. + + _Specificks, few yet discovered_, 83 + + _Spleen_, 10 + + _Spinach_, 12 + + _Spirits, cherishing and reviving_, 9 + + _Spring_, 71 + + _Stomach_, 16 + + _Stone_, 9 + + _Stone-Crop_, 44 + + _Strowings_, 67 + + _Students_, 9 + + _Succory_, 44 + + _Sugar_, 14 + + _Summer_, 84 + + _Sumptuary Laws_, 116 + + _Swearing_ per Brassicam, 11 + + _Swine used to find out Truffles and Earth-Nuts_, 28 + + +T. + + _Table of Species, Culture, Proportion and dressing of Sallets, + according to the Season_, 70 + + Tacitus, _Emp. Temperance_, 21 + + _Tansie_, 44 + + _Tarragon_, 45 + + _Taste should be exquisite in the Composer of Sallets_, 60 + + _Tea_, 17, vide Appendix. + + _Temper_, 81 + + _Temperance_, 21 + + _Teeth_, 37 + + Theriacle, _vide Garlick_. + + _Thirst, to asswage_, 33 + + _Thistle_, 45 + + _Thyme_, 19, vide _Pot-herbs_. + + Tiberius Cæs., 42 + + Tragopogon, 47 + + _Transmigration_, 56 + + _Tribute paid to Roots_, 42 + + Truffles, 28 + + Tubera, 28 + + _Tulip eaten that cost_ 100 _l._, 47 + + Turiones, 9 + + _Turnip_, 46; + _Made a Fish_, 113 + + +V. + + _Vapours to repress_, 21 + + _Variety necessary and proper_, 92 + + _Ventricle_, 20, vide _Stomach_. + + _Vine_, 47 + + _Vinegar_, 63; vide Appendix. + + _Viper-Grass_, 47 + + _Vertues of Sallet Plants and Furniture_, 57; + _Consist in the several and different Parts of the same Plant_, 49 + + Voluptuaria Venena, 28 + + +U. + + Urtica, 30 + + +W. + + _Welsh, prolifick_, 20 + + _Wind_, 17 + + _Wine_, 7; vide _Appendix_. + + _Winter Sallets_, 7; vide _Appendix_. + + _Wood-Sorrel_, 47 + + _Worms in Fennel, and Sellery_, 17 + + _Wormwood_, 49 + + +Y. + + _Youth to preserve_, 85 + + + * * * * * + + + + +FOOTNOTES + + +[Footnote 1: _Lord Viscount_ Brouncker, _Chancellor to the Late Qu. +Consort, now_ Dowager. _The Right Honourable_ Cha. Montague, _Esq; +Chancellor of the_ Exchequer.] + +[Footnote 2: _Si quid temporis à civilibus negotiis quibis totum jam +intenderat animum, suffurari potuit, colendis agris, priscos illos +Romanos_ Numam Pompilium, Cincinnatum, Catonem, Fabios, Cicerones, +_aliosque virtute claros viros imitare; qui in magno honore constituti, +vites putare, stercorare agros, & irrigare nequaquam turpe & inhone stum +putarunt_. In Vit. _Plin._ 2.] + +[Footnote 3: Ut hujusmodi historiam vix dum incohatum, non ante +absolvendam putem. + +Exitio terras quam dabit una dies. _D. Raius_ Praefat. Hist. Plan.] + +[Footnote 4: Olera a frigidis distinct. _See_ Spartianus in Pescennio. +Salmas. in Jul. Capitolin.] + +[Footnote 5: + + Panis erat primis virides mortalibus Herbae; + Quas tellus nullo sollicitante dabat. + Et modo carpebant vivaci cespite gramen; + Nunc epulæ tenera fronde cacumen erant. + +Ovid, Fastor. IV.] + +[Footnote 6: [Greek: kaloumen gar lachana ta ôros tên hêmeneran +chreian], Theophrast. Plant. 1. VII. cap. 7.] + +[Footnote 7: Gen. I. 29.] + +[Footnote 8: Plutarch Sympos.] + +[Footnote 9: Salmas. in Solin. _against_ Hieron. Mercurialis.] + +[Footnote 10: Galen. 2R. Aliment. cap. l. Et Simp. Medic. Averroes, lib. +V. Golloc.] + +[Footnote 11: Plin. lib. XIX. c. 4.] + +[Footnote 12: Convictus facilis, fine arte mensa. Mart. Ep. 74.] + +[Footnote 13: [Greek: Apuron trophui], _which_ Suidas _calls_ [Greek: +lachana], Olera quæ cruda sumuntur ex Aceto. Harduin in loc.] + +[Footnote 14: Plin. H. Nat. _lib. xix. cap. 8._] + +[Footnote 15: _De_ R.R. _cap. clvii_.] + +[Footnote 16: [Greek: 'Ephthos, dosikuos, apalos, aluôs, ourêtikos]. +Athen.] + +[Footnote 17: Cucumis elixus delicatior, innocentior. Athenæus.] + +[Footnote 18: Eubulus.] + +[Footnote 19: In Lactuca occultatum à Venere Adonin cecinit +_Callimachus_, quod Allegoricè interpretatus _Athenæus_ illuc referendum +putat, quod in Venerem hebetiores fiant Lactucis vescentes assiduè.] + +[Footnote 20: Apud Sueton.] + +[Footnote 21: Vopiseus Tacit. _For the rest both of the Kinds and +Vertues_ of Lettuce, _See_ Plin. H. Nat. _l. xix. c. 8. and xx. c. 7_. +Fernel. &c.] + +[Footnote 22: De Legib.] + +[Footnote 23: _Hor_. Epod. II.] + +[Footnote 24: De Simp. Medic. L. vii.] + +[Footnote 25: _Lib._ ii. _cap._ 3.] + +[Footnote 26: Exoneraturas Ventrem mihi Villica Malvas Attulit, & +varias, quas habet hortus, Opes. + +_Mart. Lib. x._ + +_And our sweet Poet_: + + ----Nulla est humanior herba, + Nulla magis suavi commoditate bona est, + Omnia tam placidè regerat, blandéquerelaxat, + Emollítque vias, nec sinit esse rudes. + +Cowl. _Plan._ L. 4.] + +[Footnote 27: Cic _ad Attic_.] + +[Footnote 28: Sueton _in Claudi._] + +[Footnote 29: Sen. Ep. lxiii.] + +[Footnote 30: Plin. N.H. _l. xxi_. c. 23.] + +[Footnote 31: Transact. Philos. _Num._ 202.] + +[Footnote 32: Apitius, _lib. vii. cap. 13_.] + +[Footnote 33: Philos. Transact. _Num._ 69. _Journey to_ Paris.] + +[Footnote 34: Pratensibus optima fungis Natura est: aliis male creditur. +_Hor. Sat. l. 7. Sat. 4._] + +[Footnote 35: Bacon _Nat. Hist._ 12. Cent. vii. 547, 548, &c.] + +[Footnote 36: Gaffend. _Vita Peirs._ l. iv. Raderus _Mart._ l. Epig. +xlvi. In ponticum--_says, within four Days_.] + +[Footnote 37: O Sanctas gentes, quibus haec nascuntur in hortis +Numina****---- _Juv. Sat. 15._] + +[Footnote 38: Herodotus.] + +[Footnote 39: [Greek: hôra to rhadiôs phaines], quia tertio à fatu die +appareat.] + +[Footnote 40: De diaeta _lib._ ii. _cap._ 25.] + +[Footnote 41: De Aliment. Facult. _lib._ ii.] + +[Footnote 42: _Philos. Transact._ Vol. xvii. Num. 205. p. 970.] + +[Footnote 43: _Plin._ H. Nat. Lib. xix. cap. 3. & xx. c. 22. See Jo. +Tzetzes Chil. vi. 48. & xvii. 119.] + +[Footnote 44: Spanheim, De usu & Praest. Numis. Dissert. 4to. _It was +sometimes also the Reverse_ of Jupiter Hammon.] + +[Footnote 45: + [Greek: oud an eidoiês ge moi] + [Greek: Ton plouton auton k- to Bat-ou silphion]. + _Aristoph_. in Pluto. Act. iv. Sc. 3.] + +[Footnote 46: _Of which some would have it a courser sort_ inamoeni +odoris, _as the same Comedian names it in his_ Equites, _p. 239. and +240_. Edit. Basil. _See likewise this discuss'd, together with its +Properties, most copiously, in_ Jo. Budaeus _a_ Stapul. _Comment. in_ +Theophrast. lib. vi. cap. 1. _and_ Bauhin. _Hist. Plant._ lib. xxvii. +cap. 53.] + +[Footnote 47: Vide _Cardanum_ de usu Cibi.] + +[Footnote 48: _Vol._ xx.] + +[Footnote 49: Cowley: + + [Greek: Oud oson in malachê te k- asphodelô meg oneiar] + [Greek: Krupsantes gar echousi theoi Bion anthrôpoisi.] + Hesiod.] + +[Footnote 50: _Concerning this of Insects, See Mr._ Ray's _Hist. Plant. +li. l. cap. 24_.] + +[Footnote 51: _The poyson'd Weeds: I have seen a Man, who was so +poyson'd with it, that the Skin peel'd off his Face, and yet he never +touch'd it, only looked on it as he pass'd by_. _Mr._ Stafford, _Philos. +Transact._ Vol. III. Num. xl. p. 794.] + +[Footnote 52: Cowley, _Garden_, Miscel. Stanz. 8.] + +[Footnote 53: Sapores minime Consentientes [Greek: kai sumpleko-uas +ouchi symphônous haphas]: Haec despicere ingeniosi est artificis: +_Neither did the Artist mingle his Provisions without extraordinary +Study and Consideration_: [Greek: Alla mixas panta kata symphônian]. +Horum singulis seorsum assumptis, tu expedito: Sic ego tanquam Oraculo +jubeo.----Itaque literarum ignarum Coquum, tu cum videris, & qui +Democriti scripta omnia non perlegerit, vel potius, impromptu non +habeat, eum deride ut futilem: Ac ilium Mercede conducito, qui Epicuri +Canonen usu plane didicerit, _&c. as it follows in the_ Gastronomia _of_ +Archestratus, Athen. lib. xxiii. _Such another_ Bragadoccio Cook Horace +_describes_ + + Nec sibi Coenarum quivis temere arroget artem + Non prius exacta tenui ratione saporem. + _Sat. lib. ii. Sat. 4._] + +[Footnote 54: Milton's _Paradise Lost_.] + +[Footnote 55: + + ---- Qui + Tingat olus siccum muria vaser in calice emptâ + Ipse sacrum irrorans piper ---- Pers. _Sat._ vi.] + +[Footnote 56: _Dr._ Grew, Lect. vi. c. 2. 3.] + +[Footnote 57: _Muffet_, de Diaeta, _c._ 23.] + +[Footnote 58: _Dr._ Grew, _Annat. Plant._ Lib. l. Sect. iv. cap. l, &c. +_See also_, Transact. _Num._ 107. _Vol._ ix.] + +[Footnote 59: _Philosoph. Transact._ Vol. III. Num. xl. p. 799.] + +[Footnote 60: Mart. _Epig. lib._ xi. 39.] + +[Footnote 61: Athen. l. 2. _Of which Change of Diet see_ Plut. iv. +_Sympos._ 9. Plinii _Epist._ I. _ad Eretrium._] + +[Footnote 62: Virg. _Moreto_.] + +[Footnote 63: Hor. _Sat. I. 2. Sat. 4._] + +[Footnote 64: Mart. _Ep. l._ v. _Ep. 17_.] + +[Footnote 65: _Concerning the Use of Fruit (bessides many others) +whether best to be eaten before, or after Meals? Published by a +Physician of_ Rochel, _and render'd out of_ French _into_ English. +_Printed by_ T. Basset _in_ Fleetstreet.] + +[Footnote 66: Achilles, Patroclus, Automedon. _Iliad. ix. & alibi_.] + +[Footnote 67: _For so some pronounce it_, V. Athenaeum Deip. _Lib._ II. +_Cap._ 26 [Greek: êd-] quasi [Greek: êdusma], _perhaps for that it +incites Appetite, and causes Hunger, which is the best Sauce_.] + +[Footnote 68: Cratinus in Glauco.] + +[Footnote 69: Nat. Hist. IV. _Cent._ VII. 130. Se Arist. Prob. _Sect._ +xx. _Quaest._ 36. _Why some Fruits and Plants are best raw, others +boil'd, roasted_, &c, _as becoming sweeter; but the Crude more sapid and +grateful_.] + +[Footnote 70: Card. _Contradicent_. Med. l. iv. _Cant._ 18. Diphilus +_not at all_. Athenaeus.] + +[Footnote 71: _Sir_ Tho. Brown's _Miscel._] + +[Footnote 72: Caule suburbano qui ficcis crevit in agris Dulcior,-- +--Hor. _Sat._ l. 2. Section 4.] + +[Footnote 73: Transact. Philos. _Num._ xxv.] + +[Footnote 74: _Num._ xviii.] + +[Footnote 75: _Thesaur. Sanit._ c. 2.] + +[Footnote 76: _As_ Delcampius _interprets the Place_.] + +[Footnote 77: Scaliger ad Card. Exercit. 213.] + +[Footnote 78: _Cel._ Lib. Cap. 4.] + +[Footnote 79: Plin. _Nat. Hist. l. 3. c. 12._] + +[Footnote 80: Hanc brevitatem Vitae (_speaking of Horses_) fortasse +homini debet, _Verul. Hist._ Vit. & Mort. _See this throughly +controverted_, Macrob. _Saturn._ l. vii. c. v.] + +[Footnote 81: Arist. _Hist. Animal. l._ v. _c._ 14.] + +[Footnote 82: [Greek: anomoia sasiazei].] + +[Footnote 83: Hor. _Sat. l._ II. _Sat._ 2. Macr. _Sat. l._ VII.] + +[Footnote 84: Gen. ix.] + +[Footnote 85: Metam. i. Fab. iii. _and_ xv.] + +[Footnote 86: Gen. xi. 19.] + +[Footnote 87: Gen. ix.] + +[Footnote 88: _Porphyr._ de Abstin. _Proclum_, _Jambleum_, &c.] + +[Footnote 89: Strom, vii.] + +[Footnote 90: Praep. Lv. passim.] + +[Footnote 91: Tertul. _de Tejun._ cap. iv. Hieron. _advers._ Jovin.] + +[Footnote 92: Sen. _Epist._ 108.] + +[Footnote 93: 1 _Cor._ viii. 8. 1. _Tim._ iv. 1. 3. 14. _Rom._ ii. 3.] + +[Footnote 94: + + Has Epulas habuit teneri gens aurea mundis + Et coenæ ingentis tune caput ipsa sui. + Semide unque meo creverunt corpora succo, + Materiam tanti sanguinis ille dedit. + Tune neque fraus nota est, neque vis, neque foeda libido; + Hæc nimis proles sæva caloris erat. + Si sacrum illorum, sit detestabile nomen, + Qui primi servæ regne dedere gulæ. + Hinc vitiis patefacta via est, morbisq; secutis sas, + Se lethi facies exeruere novæ. + Ah, fuge crudeles Animantum sanguine men + Quasque tibi obsonat mors inimica dapes. + Poscas tandem æger, si sanus negligis, herbas. + Esse cibus nequeunt? at medicamen erunt. + _Colci_ Plaut. lib. 1. Lactuca.] + +[Footnote 95: Gen. ix.] + +[Footnote 96: Ancyra xiv.] + +[Footnote 97: Can. Apost. 50.] + +[Footnote 98: Clem. Paedag. _Lib._ ii. c. l. _Vide_ Prudent. _Hymn_. +[Greek: cha thêmerinôn]: Nos Oloris Coma, nos siliqua facta legumine +multitudo paraveris innocuis Epulis.] + +[Footnote 99: xv. _Acts_, 20, 29.] + +[Footnote 100: _Philo_ de Vit. Contemp. _Joseph_. Antiq. _Lib._ 13 +_Cap._ 9.] + +[Footnote 101: _Hackwell_. Apolog.] + +[Footnote 102: Hippoc. de vetere Medicina, Cap. 6, 7.] + +[Footnote 103: 2 _Tim._ iv. 3.] + +[Footnote 104: _This, with their prodigious Ignorance_. _See_ Mab. des +Etudes Monast. _Part._ 2. c. 17.] + +[Footnote 105: _Dr._ Lister's _Journey to_ Paris. _See L'Apocalyps_ de +Meliton, _ou Revelation des Mysteres Cenobitiques_.] + +[Footnote 106: Plantarum usus latissimè patet, & in omni vitæ parte +occurrit, sine illis lautè, sine illis commodè non vivitur, ac nec +vivitur omninò. Quæcunque ad victu necessaria sunt, quæcunque ad +delicias faciunt, è locupletissimo suo penu abundè subministrant: Quantò +ex eis mensa innocentior, mundior, salubrior, quam ex animalium cæde & +Laniena! Homo certè naturâ animal carnivorum non est; nullis ad prædam & +rapinam armis instructum; non dentibus exertis & ferratis, non unguibus +aduncis: Manus ad fructos colligendos, dentes ad mandendos comparati; +nee legimus se ante diluvium carnes ad esum concessas, &c. _Raii Hist. +Plant. Lib._ 1. _cap._ 24.] + +[Footnote 107: Mart. _lib._ x. _Epig._ 44.] + +[Footnote 108: Barl. _Eleg. lib._ 3.] + +[Footnote 109: Athen. Deip. _l._ i.] + +[Footnote 110: Cowley, _Garden. Stanz._ 6.] + +[Footnote 111: _Hence in_ Macrobius Sat. lib. vii. c. 5. _we find_ +Eupolis _the Comedian in his_ æges, _bringing in Goats boasting the +Variety of their Food,_ [Greek: Boskometh ulês apo pantodaôês, elatês], +&c. _After which follows a Banquet of innumerable sorts_.] + +[Footnote 112: Esa. lxv. 25.] + +[Footnote 113: Bina tunc jugera populo Romano satis erat, nullique +majorem modum attribuit, quo servos paulo ante principis Neronis, +contemptis hujus spatii Virdariis, piscinas juvat habere majores, +gratumque, si non aliquem & culinas. _Plin. Hist. Nat. lib._ xviii. +_c._ 2.] + +[Footnote 114: Interea gustus elements per omnia quaerunt. _Juv. Sat. +4._] + +[Footnote 115: Cicero. _Epist._ Lib. 7. _Ep._ 26. _Complaining of a +costly Sallet, that had almost cost him his Life_.] + +[Footnote 116: Valeriana, _That of_ Lectucini, Achilleia, Lysimachia, +Fabius, Cicero, Lentulus, Piso, &c. a Fabis, Cicere, Lente, Pisis bene +serendis dicti, _Plin._] + +[Footnote 117: Mirum esset non licere pecori Carduis vesci, non licet +plebei, &c. _And in another Place_, Quoniam portenta quoque terrarum in +ganeam vertimus, etiam quæ refugeant quadrupeded consciæ, _Plin._ Hist. +Nat. l. xix. c. 8.] + +[Footnote 118: Gra. Falisc. _Gyneget_. Was. _See concerning this Excess_ +Macr. _Sat. l. 2. c. 9._ & sequ.] + +[Footnote 119: Horti maximè placebant, quia non egerent igni, +parceréntque ligno, expedita res, & parata semper, unde _Acetaria_ +appellantur, facilia concoqui, nee oneratura sensum cibo, & quæ minime +accenderent desiderium panis. _Plin. Hist. Nat. Lib._ xix. _c._ 4. _And +of this exceeding Frugality of the_ Romans, _till after the_ Mithridatic +_War, see_ Athenæus Deip. Lib. 6. cap. 21. Horat. _Serm. Sat._ 1.] + +[Footnote 120: Nequam esse in domo matrem familias (etenim hæc cura +Foeminæ dicebatur) ubi indiligens esset hortus.] + +[Footnote 121: Alterum succidium. _Cic._ in _Catone_. Tiberias _had a +Tribute of_ Skirrits _paid him_.] + +[Footnote 122: Hor. _Sat. l. 2._ Vix prae vino sustinet palpebras, eunti +in consilium, &c. _See the Oration of_ C. _Titius_ de Leg. Fan. Mac +_Sat. l. 2. c. 12._] + +[Footnote 123: Milton's _Paradise_, 1. v. ver. 228.] + +[Footnote 124: + + At victus illa ætas cui secimus aurea nomen + Fructibus arboreis, & quas humus educat herbis + Fortunata fuit.----_Met. xv._] + +[Footnote 125: Bene moratus venter.] + +[Footnote 126: TAB. II.] + +[Footnote 127: + + Foelix, quem misera procul ambitione remotum, + Parvus ager placide, parvus & hortus, alit. + Præbet ager quicquid frugi natura requirit, + Hortus habet quicquid luxuriosa petit, + Cætera follicitæ speciosa incommoda vitæ + Permittit stultis quærere, habere malis. + _Cowley_, Pl. lib. iv.] + +[Footnote 128: Plin. Athenæus, Macrobius, Bacon, Boyle, Digby, _&c._] + + * * * * * + +_An Edition of one thousand copies was designed by Richard Ellis +and printed under his supervision at The Haddon Craftsmen, Camden, +New Jersey_. + + * * * * * + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets, by John Evelyn + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS *** + +***** This file should be named 15517-8.txt or 15517-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/5/1/15517/ + +Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets + +Author: John Evelyn + +Release Date: April 1, 2005 [EBook #15517] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS *** + + + + +Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="width: 100%; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding: 0; text-align: center;"> + <img src="images/frontis.jpg" alt="Joannes Evelyn Arm'r" + style="width:100%;" /> <span class="smallcap">Joannes Evelyn Arm<sup>r</sup></span> + </div> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <div class="titlepad"> + <div style="border: 1px gray solid; padding: 1%;"> + <h1 style="line-height: 200%;"> + <i>ACETARIA</i> <br /> <span + style="font-size: 50%; padding: 2em 0 2em 0;"> A DISCOURSE OF </span> + <br /> SALLETS + </h1> + <hr /> + <h2> + By <i>JOHN EVELYN, Eſq.</i> + </h2> + <h3> + Author of the <i>Kalendarium</i> + </h3> + <hr /> + <p style="text-indent: 0; text-align: center; line-height: 200%;"> + <i>BROOKLYN</i>, <br /> Published by the <i>Women's Auxiliary</i>, + <br /> BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN <br /> 1937 + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <p style="text-indent: 0; text-align: center;"> + <i>Printed in the United States of America</i> + </p> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + <i>Publisher's Note</i> + </h2> + <p> + This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of + 1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and those + noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt has been + made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit has been + retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have been carefully + followed; also the old-style S [ſ] has been retained. Much of the + flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly; and one should + remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a man of letters, and + if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous, they are as amusing a + conceit as the French and German complacencies of a more recent + generation. + </p> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + <i>Foreword to Acetaria</i> + </h2> + <p> + <span class="smallcap">John Evelyn,</span> famous for his "Diary," was a + friend and contemporary of Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public + servants who had held minor offices in the government. But, while Pepys' + diary is sparkling and redolent of the free manners of the Restoration, + Evelyn's is the record of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to + gardens, to sculpture and architecture, rather than to the gaieties of + contemporary social life. Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was + "county." He represents the combination of public servant and country + gentleman which has been the supreme achievement of English culture. + </p> + <p> + Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I must observe + that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a course of + inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence." + </p> + <p> + Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons was + brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of Norfolk, + was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the University of + Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and civic affairs and + was commissioner for improving the streets and buildings <span + class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> in London. He had charge of the sick and + wounded of the Dutch War and also, with the fineness of character typical + of his kind, he remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was + also active in organizing the Royal Society and became its first + secretary. + </p> + <p> + In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing his + own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books, one of + them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener; + instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees." Evelyn + undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "<i>Les Delices de la + Campagne</i>." Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons, + consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this book + which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such as Acetaria. + He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The Compleat Gardener." His + "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written as a protest against + the destruction of trees in England being carried on by the glass + factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded in inducing landowners + to plant millions of trees. + </p> + <p> + The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject + matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from <span + class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> the Greek, political and historical + pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or the inconvenience of the Aer + and Smoke of London dissipated," in which he suggests that sweet-smelling + trees should be planted to purify the air of London. He also wrote a book + called "Sculpture, or the History of Chalcography and Engraving in + Copper." + </p> + <p> + Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn + grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first + advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing foods + without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby, he + collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic + comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the little + book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth edition of + the "Kalendarium Hortense," a gardener's almanac. + </p> + <p> + The material for <i>Acetaria</i> was gathered as early as 1679 with the + idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture. The + <i>Plan of a Royal Garden</i>, was Evelyn's outline for that ambitious + work. + </p> + <p> + The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical for + today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are <span + class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for + flavoring soups, egg dishes, "salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet + herbs prepared in ramikins and the pudding flavored with the petals of + calendulas are particularly good. + </p> + <p> + The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It also + shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign of + Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit of scientific + investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas. Evelyn + supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to prepare new + dishes. + </p> + <p> + Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it is + not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with a + leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse trotting + through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we read, we can + almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the family assembled + around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or again we can almost + smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy rows in the well-tilled + and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn. + </p> + <p style="text-align: right;"> + <i>Helen M. Fox</i> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <div style="width: 100%; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; padding: 0; text-align: center;"> + <img src="images/title.png" style="width: 100%;" + alt="Facsimile of Title Page of First Edition" /><br /> <i>Facsimile of + Title Page of First Edition</i> + </div> + <!-- BEGIN HIDDEN DISPLAY BLOCK --> + <!-- This block is included to allow the text to be indexed without having + to display both the illustration and the corresponding text. Changed from none to inline as causing failure of mobile file builds. CDW --> + <div style="display: inline;"> + <h1> + <i>ACETARIA</i>. <br /> A <br /> DISCOURSE <br /> OF <br /> SALLETS. + </h1> + <hr /> + <h2> + By <i>J.E.</i> S.R.S. Author of <br /> the <i>Kalendarium</i>. + </h2> + <hr /> + <p style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0;"> + Ου παντος ανδρος + εσιν αρτυσια + καλως [Greek: Ou pantos andros hesin + artusia kalôs.] + <!-- Transcriber's NOTE: Typo in the Greek? Shouldn't that be + "artusai"? --> + </p> + <p style="text-align: right; text-indent: 0;"> + Crat. in Glauc. + </p> + <hr /> + <p style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0;"> + <i>LONDON</i>, <br /> Printed for <i>B. Tooke</i> at the <i>Middle- <br /> + Temple</i> Gate in <i>Fleetstreet</i>, 1699. + </p> + </div> + <!-- END OF HIDDEN DISPLAY BLOCK --> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1 style="line-height: 150%;"> + <span style="font-size: 75%; padding: 2em 0 2em 0;"> <i>To the Right + Honourable</i> </span> <br /> <i>JOHN</i> <br /> Lord Somers <br /> <span + style="font-size: 75%; padding: 2em 0 2em 0;"> <i>of Evesham</i> </span> + </h1> + <h2> + Lord <i>High-Chancellor</i> of England, <br /> and <i>President</i> of the + <i>Royal-Society</i>. + </h2> + <hr /> + <p> + <i>My Lord</i>, + </p> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + <span class="dropcap">T</span> <span class="smallcap">he</span> <i>Idea</i> + and <i>Plan</i> of the <i>Royal-Society</i> having been firſt + conceiv'd and delineated by a <i>Great</i> and <i>Learned Chancellor</i>, + which High Office your Lordſhip deservedly bears; not as an Acquiſition + of Fortune, but your Intellectual Endowments; <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + Conſpicuous (among other Excellencies) by the Inclination Your Lordſhip + diſcovers to promote <i>Natural Knowledge</i>: As it juſtifies + the Diſcernment of that <i>Aſſembly</i>, to pitch upon Your + Lordſhip for their <i>Preſident</i>, ſo does it no leſs + diſcover the Candor, yea, I preſume to ſay, the Sublimity + of your Mind, in ſo generouſly honoring them with your <i>Acceptance</i> + of the <i>Choice</i> they have made. + </p> + <p> + A <a href="#note-1" name="noteref-1" class="noteref" id="noteref-1"><sup>1</sup></a><i>Chancellor</i>, + and a very Learned Lord, was the <i>Firſt</i> who honoured the <i>Chair</i>; + and a no leſs Honorable and Learned <i>Chancellor</i>, reſigns + it to Your Lordſhip: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardſhips + the <i>Society</i> <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> has hitherto gone + through; it has thro' the Favour and Protection of its <i>Preſidents</i>, + not only preſerv'd its Reputation from the Malevolence of Enemies and + Detracters, but gone on <i>Culminating</i>, and now <i>Triumphantly</i> in + Your Lordſhip: Under whoſe propitious Influence, I am perſwaded, + it may promiſe it ſelf <i>That</i>, which indeed has hitherto + been wanting, to juſtifie the Glorious <i>Title</i> it bears of a + ROYAL SOCIETY. The <i>Emancipating</i> it from ſome Remaining and Diſcouraging + Circumſtances, which it as yet labours under; among which, that of a + <i>Precarious</i> and unſteady Abode, is not the leaſt. + </p> + <p> + This <i>Honor</i> was reſerv'd for Your Lordſhip; and an <i>Honor</i>, + permit me <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> to call it, not at all + unworthy the Owning of the Greateſt Person living: Namely, the Eſtabliſhing + and Promoting <i>Real Knowledge</i>; and (next to what is <i>Divine</i>) + truly ſo called; as far, at leaſt, as Humane Nature extends + towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire beyond the Land + of <i>Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult Qualities</i>, + and other <i>Inadequate Notions</i>; which, by their Obſtreperous and + Noiſy Diſputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men + from adventuring on further Diſcoveries, confin'd them in a lazy + Acquieſcence, and to be fed with <i>Fantaſms</i> and fruitleſs + Speculations, which ſignifie nothing to the <i>ſpecifick</i> + Nature of Things, <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> solid and uſeful + knowledge; by the <i>Inveſtigation of Cauſes, Principles, + Energies, Powers</i>, and <i>Effects</i> of <i>Bodies</i>, and <i>Things + Viſible</i>; and to improve them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind. + </p> + <p> + <i>My Lord</i>, That which the <i>Royal Society</i> needs to accompliſh + an entire Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumſtances more eaſie) + capable to ſubſiſt with Honor, and to reach indeed the + Glorious Ends of its <i>Inſtitution</i>, is an Eſtabliſhment + in a more Settl'd, <i>Appropriate</i>, and <i>Commodious Place</i>; having + hitherto (like the <i>Tabernacle</i> in the <i>Wilderneſs</i>) been + only <i>Ambulatory</i> for almoſt <i>Forty Years</i>: But <i>Solomon</i> + built the Firſt <i>Temple</i>; and what forbids us to hope, <span + class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> that as Great a <i>Prince</i> may build <i>Solomon's + Houſe</i>, as that Great <i>Chancellor</i> (one of Your Lordſhip's + Learned <i>Predeceſſors</i>) had deſign'd the <i>Plan</i>; + there being nothing in that <i>Auguſt</i> and <i>Noble Model</i> impoſſible, + or beyond the <i>Power</i> of <i>Nature</i> and Learned Induſtry. + </p> + <p> + Thus, whilſt King <i>Solomon's</i> Temple was <i>Conſecrated</i> + to the <i>God</i> of <i>Nature</i>, and his true Worſhip; <i>This</i> + may be <i>Dedicated</i>, and ſet apart for the <i>Works</i> of <i>Nature</i>; + deliver'd from those Illuſions and Impoſtors, that are ſtill + endeavouring to cloud and depreſs the True, and <i>Subſtantial + Philoſophy</i>: A <i>ſhallow</i> and <i>Superficial Inſight</i>, + wherein (as that Incomparable Perſon rightly obſerves) having + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> made ſo many <i>Atheiſts</i>: + whilſt a <i>profound</i> and thorow <i>Penetration</i> into her <i>Receſſes</i> + (which is the <i>Buſineſs</i> of the <i>Royal Society</i>) would + lead Men to the <i>Knowledge</i>, and <i>Admiration</i> of the <i>Glorious + Author</i>. + </p> + <p> + And now, <i>My Lord</i>, I expect ſome will wonder what my Meaning + is, to uſher in a <i>Trifle</i>, with ſo much Magnificence, and + end at last in a fine <i>Receipt</i> for the <i>Dreſſing</i> of + a <i>Sallet</i> with an Handful of <i>Pot-Herbs</i>! But yet, <i>My Lord</i>, + this <i>Subject</i>, as low and deſpicable as it appears, challenges + a Part of <i>Natural History</i>, and the Greateſt Princes have + thought it no Diſgrace, not only to make it their <i>Diverſion</i>, + but their <i>Care</i>, and to promote and encourage it in the midſt + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> of their weightieſt Affairs: He + who wrote of the <i>Cedar</i> of <i>Libanus</i>, wrote alſo of the <i>Hyſop + which grows upon the Wall</i>. + </p> + <p> + To verifie this, how much might I ſay of <i>Gardens</i> and <i>Rural + Employments</i>, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular Buſineſs, + and that in the Eſtimate of as Great Men as any Age has produc'd! And + it is of ſuch <i>Great Souls</i> we have it recorded; That after they + had perform'd the Nobleſt Exploits for the Publick, they ſometimes + chang'd their <i>Scepters</i> for the <i>Spade</i>, and their <i>Purple</i> + for the Gardiner's <i>Apron</i>. And of theſe, ſome, My <i>Lord</i>, + were <i>Emperors, Kings, Conſuls, Dictators</i>, and Wiſe <i>Stateſmen</i>; + who amidſt the most <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> important + Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all their Pomp and Dignity in + Exchange of this Learned Pleaſure: Nor that of the moſt <i>refin'd</i> + Part of <i>Agriculture</i> (the <i>Philoſophy</i> of the <i>Garden</i> + and <i>Parterre</i> only) but of <i>Herbs</i>, and wholeſom <i>Sallets</i>, + and other plain and uſeful Parts of <i>Geoponicks</i>, and Wrote <i>Books</i> + of <i>Tillage</i> and <i>Husbandry</i>; and took the <i>Plough-Tackle</i> + for their <i>Banner</i>, and their <i>Names</i> from the <i>Grain</i> and + <i>Pulſe</i> they ſow'd, as the Marks and Characters of the + higheſt Honor. + </p> + <p> + But I proceed no farther on a <i>Topic</i> ſo well known to Your Lordſhip: + Nor urge I Examples of ſuch Illuſtrious Perſons laying aſide + their Grandeur, and even of deſerting their Stations; <span + class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> (which would infinitely prejudice the + Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm) But to ſhew + how conſiſent the Diverſions of the <i>Garden</i> and <i>Villa</i> + were, with the higheſt and buſieſt Employment of the <i>Commonwealth</i>, + and never thought a Reproch, or the leaſt Diminution to the Gravity + and Veneration due to their Perſons, and the Noble Rank they held. + </p> + <p> + Will Your Lordſhip give me Leave to repeat what is ſaid of the + Younger <i>Pliny</i>, (Nephew to the <i>Naturaliſt</i>) and whom I + think we may parallel with the Greateſt of his time (and perhaps of + any ſince) under the Worthieſt <i>Emperor</i> the <i>Roman</i> + world ever had? A Perſon of vaſt Abilities, Rich, <span + class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> and High in his Maſter's Favour; that + ſo Husbanded his time, as in the Midſt of the weightieſt + Affairs, to have Anſwer'd, and by his <a href="#note-2" + name="noteref-2" class="noteref" id="noteref-2"><sup>2</sup></a><i>Example</i>, + made good what I have ſaid on this Occaſion. The Ancient and beſt + Magiſtrates of <i>Rome</i> allow'd but the <i>Ninth</i> Day for the + <i>City</i> and <i>Publick Buſineſs</i>; the reſt for the + <i>Country</i> and the <i>Sallet Garden</i>: There were then fewer <i>Cauſes</i> + indeed at the <i>Bar</i>; but never greater <i>Juſtice</i>, nor <i>better + Judges</i> and <i>Advocates</i>. And 'tis hence obſerved, that we + hardly find a Great and Wise Man among the Ancients, <i>qui nullos habuit + hortos</i>, <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> excepting only <i>Pomponius + Atticus</i>; wilſt his Dear <i>Cicero</i> profeſſes, that + he never laid out his Money more readily, than in the purchaſing of + <i>Gardens</i>, and thoſe ſweet Retirements, for which he ſo + often left the <i>Roſtra</i> (and Court of the Greateſt and moſt + flouriſhing State of the World) to viſit, prune, and water them + with his own Hands. + </p> + <p> + But, <i>My Lord</i>, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a <i>Gardiner</i> + ought not to be ſo bold. The preſent I humbly make your Lordſhip, + is indeed but a <i>Sallet</i> of <i>Crude Herbs</i>: But there is among + them that which was a <i>Prize</i> at the <i>Iſthmian Games</i>; and + Your Lordſhip knows who it was both accepted, and rewarded as deſpicable + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> an Oblation of this kind. The Favor I + humbly beg, is Your Lordſhip's Pardon for this Preſumption. The + Subject is <i>mean</i>, and requires it, and my <i>Reputation</i> in + danger; should Your Lordſhip hence ſuſpect that one could + never write ſo much of <i>dreſſing Sallets</i>, who minded + anything ſerious, beſides the gratifying a Senſual Appetite + with a Voluptuary <i>Apician</i> Art. + </p> + <p> + Truly, <i>My Lord</i>, I am ſo far from deſigning to promote thoſe + <i>Supplicia Luxuriæ</i>, (as <i>Seneca</i> calls them) by what I + have here written; that were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if + not altogether to their Priſtine <i>Diet</i>, yet to a much more <i>wholſome</i> + and <i>temperate</i> than is now in Faſhion: And what if they find me + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> like to ſome who are eager after + <i>Hunting</i> and other Field-Sports, which are <i>Laborious</i> Exerciſes? + and <i>Fiſhing</i>, which is indeed a <i>Lazy</i> one? who, after all + their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either: For + ſome ſuch I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm ſo of my + ſelf, (when a well dreſt and excellent <i>Sallet</i> is before + me) I am yet a very moderate Eater of them. So as to this <i>Book-Luxury</i>, + I can affirm, and that truly what the <i>Poet</i> ſays of himſelf + (on a leſs innocent Occaſion) <i>Laſciva pagina, vita + proba.</i> God forbid, that after all I have advanc'd in Praiſe of <i>Sallets</i>, + I ſhould be thought to plead for the Vice I cenſure, and chuſe + that of <i>Epicurus</i> for my <i>Lemma</i>; <i>In hac arte</i> <span + class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>conſenui</i>; or to have ſpent + my time in nothing elſe. The <i>Plan</i> annext to theſe Papers, + and the <i>Apparatus</i> made to ſuperſtruct upon it, would + acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on <i>Sallets</i> only. + What I humbly offer Your Lordſhip, is (as I ſaid) Part of <i>Natural + Hiſtory</i>, the Product of <i>Horticulture</i>, and the <i>Field</i>, + dignified by the moſt illuſtrious, and ſometimes tilled <i>Laureato + Vomere</i>; which, as it concerns a Part of <i>Philoſophy</i>, I may + (without Vanity) be allow'd to have taken ſome Pains in Cultivating, + as an inferior Member of the <i>Royal Society</i>. + </p> + <p> + But, <i>My Lord</i>, wilſt You read on (if at leaſt You vouchſafe + me that Honor to read at all) I am conſcious <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + I rob the Publick of its moſt Precious Moments. + </p> + <p> + I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordſhip's Pardon: Nor indeed + needed I to have ſaid half this, to kindle in Your Breaſt, that + which is already ſhining there (Your Lordſhip's Eſteem of + the <i>Royal Society</i>) after what You were pleas'd to Expreſs in + ſuch an Obliging manner, when it was lately to wait upon Your Lordſhip; + among whom I had the Honor to be a Witneſs of Your Generous, and + Favourable Acceptance of their Addreſſes, who am, + </p> + <p style="text-align: right;"> + <i>My Lord, + <br /> Your Lordſhip's Moſt Humble + <br /> and Moſt Obedient Servant, <br /> JOHN EVELYN</i>. + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <hr /> + <h2> + THE PREFACE + </h2> + <hr /> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + <span class="dropcap">T</span> <span class="smallcap">he</span> <i>Favourable + Entertainment which the</i> Kalendar <i>has found, encouraging the</i> + Bookſeller <i>to adventure upon</i> a Ninth Impreſſion, I + <i>could not refuſe his Requeſt of my Reviſing, and Giving + it the beſt Improvement I was capable</i>, to an Inexhauſtible + Subject, <i>as it regards a Part of</i> Horticulture; <i>and offer ſome + little Aid to ſuch as love a Diverſion ſo Innocent and + Laudable. There are thoſe of late, who have arrogated, and given the + Glorious Title</i> of Compleat <i>and</i> Accompliſh'd Gardiners, <i>to + what they have Publiſh'd; as if there were nothing wanting, nothing + more remaining, or farther to be expected from the Field; and that</i> + Nature <i>had been quite emptied of all her fertile Store: Whilſt thoſe + who thus magnifie their Diſcoveries, have after all, penetrated but a + very little Way into this Vaſt, Ample, and as yet, Unknown Territory; + Who ſee not, that it would ſtill require the Revolution of many + Ages; deep, and long</i> Experience, <i>for any Man to Emerge that + Perfect, and Accompliſh'd Artiſt</i> Gardiner <i>they boaſt + themſelves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and + far extended Limits of the</i> Vegetable <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + Kingdom, <i>ſo incomprehenſible is the Variety it every Day + produces, of the moſt Uſeful, and Admirable of all the Aſpectable + Works of God; ſince almoſt all we</i> ſee, <i>and</i> + touch, <i>and</i> taſte, <i>and</i> ſmell, eat <i>and</i> drink, + are clad <i>with, and</i> defended <i>(from the Greateſt</i> Prince + <i>to the Meaneſt</i> Peaſant) <i>is furniſhed from that + Great and Univerſal Plantation</i>, Epitomiz'd <i>in our</i> Gardens, + <i>highly worth the Contemplation of the moſt Profound Divine, and + Deepeſt</i> Philosopher. + </p> + <p> + <i>I ſhould be aſham'd to acknowledge how little I have + advanced, could I find that ever any Mortal Man from</i> Adam, Noah, + Solomon, Ariſtotle, Theophraſtus, Dioſcorides, <i>and the + reſt of Nature's Interpreters, had ever arriv'd to the perfect + Knowledge of any one</i> Plant, <i>or</i> Vulgar Weed <i>whatſoever: + But this perhaps may yet poſſibly be reſerv'd for another + State of Things, and a</i> <a href="#note-3" name="noteref-3" + class="noteref" id="noteref-3"><sup>3</sup></a><i>longer Day; that is</i>, + When Time ſhall be no more, but Knowledge ſhall be encreas'd. + </p> + <p> + <i>We have heard of one who ſtudied and contemplated the Nature of</i> + Bees <i>only, for</i> Sixty Years: <i>After which, you will not wonder, + that a Perſon of my Acquaintance, ſhould have ſpent</i> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>almoſt</i> Forty, <i>in + Gathering and Amaſſing Materials for an</i> Hortulan <i>Deſign, + to ſo enormous an Heap, as to fill ſome</i> Thouſand Pages; + <i>and yet be comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, + within the Square of leſs than</i> One (<i>ſkilfully Planted and + Cultivated) ſufficient to furniſh, and entertain his Time and + Thoughts all his Life long, with a moſt Innocent, Agreeable, and Uſeful + Employment. But you may juſtly wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it + too, with that Reproach</i>, This Man began to build, but was not able to + finiſh! <i>This has been the Fate of that Undertaking; and I dare + promiſe, will be of whoſoever imagines (without the Circumſtances + of extraordinary Aſſistance, and no ordinary Expence) to purſue + the</i> Plan, <i>erect, and finiſh the</i> Fabrick <i>as it ought to + be</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>But this is that which</i> Abortives <i>the Perfection of the moſt + Glorious and Uſeful Undertakings; the Unſatiable Coveting to + Exhauſt all that ſhould, or can be ſaid upon every Head: If + ſuch a one have any thing elſe to mind, or do in the World, let + me tell him, he thinks of Building too late; and rarely find we any, who + care to ſuperſtruct upon the Foundation of another, and whoſe</i> + Ideas <i>are alike. There ought therefore to be as many</i> Hands, <i>and</i> + Subſidiaries <i>to ſuch a Deſign</i> (<i>and thoſe</i> + Matters <i>too</i>) <i>as there are </i> <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + <i> diſtinct Parts of the Whole (according to the ſubſequent + Table) that thoſe who have the Means and Courage, may</i> (<i>tho' + they do not undertake the</i> Whole) <i>finiſh a</i> Part <i>at leaſt, + and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat, and Conſummate + Work indeed</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>Of</i> One <i>or</i> Two <i>of these</i>, I <i>attempted only a</i> + Specimen <i>in my</i> SILVA <i>and the</i> KALENDAR; Imperfect, <i>I + ſay, because they are both capable of Great Improvements: It is not + therefore to be expected</i> (<i>Let me uſe the Words of an Old, and + Experienced</i> Gardiner) Cuncta me dicturum, quae vaſtitas ejus + ſcientiæ contineret, ſed plurima; nam illud in unius + hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque eſt ulla Diſciplina + aut Ars, quæ ſingulari conſummata ſit ingenio. + </p> + <p> + <i>May it then ſuffice</i> aliquam partem tradidiſſe, <i>and + that I have done my Endeavour</i>. + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + ... Jurtilis olim + </p> + <p> + Ne Videar vixiſſe. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <i>Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean, + concerning</i> Gardening:) <i>But this is not a Place to Expatiate, + deterr'd, as I have long ſince been, from ſo bold an Enterprize, + as the Fabrick I mentioned. I content my ſelf then with an</i> Humble + Cottage, <i>and a Simple</i> Potagere, <i>Appendant to the</i> <span + class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> Calendar; <i>which, Treating only (and that + briefly) of the</i> Culture <i>of</i> Moderate Gardens; <i>Nothing ſeems + to me, ſhou'd be more</i> Welcome <i>and</i> Agreeable, <i>than whilſt + the Product of them is come into more</i> Requeſt <i>and</i> Uſe + <i>amongſt us, than heretofore (beſide what we call, and diſtinguiſh + by the Name of</i> Fruit) <i>I</i> <i>did annex ſome particular + Directions concerning</i> S A L L E T S. + </p> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <hr /> + <h1 style="line-height: 150%;"> + <span style="font-size: 50%; padding: 2em 0 2em 0;"> <i>THE</i> </span> + <br /> PLAN <br /> <span style="font-size: 50%; padding: 2em 0 2em 0;"> <i>OF + A</i> </span> <br /> <i>ROYAL GARDEN:</i> + </h1> + <p style="margin-left: 1.5em; text-indent: -1.5em; font-size: 150%;"> + Deſcribing, and Shewing the <i>Amplitude</i>, and <i>Extent</i> of + that Part of <i>Georgicks</i>, which belongs to <i>Horticulture</i>. + </p> + <hr /> + <p style="text-align: center; text-indent: 0; font-size: 150%;"> + In Three Books + </p> + <hr /> + <h3> + <i>BOOK I</i>. + </h3> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. I. Of Principles and Elements</i> in general. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. II</i>. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; <i>Fire, Air, + Water; Earth</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. III</i>. Of the Celeſtial <i>Influences</i>, and + particularly of the <i>Sun, Moon</i>, and of the <i>Climates</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>Chap. IV</i>. Of the Four <i>Annual + Seasons</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. V</i>. Of the Natural <i>Mould</i> and <i>Soil</i> of a Garden. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. VI</i>. Of <i>Compoſts</i>, and <i>Stercoration, Repaſtination, + Dreſſing</i> and <i>Stirring</i> the <i>Earth</i> and <i>Mould</i> + of a Garden. + </p> + <h3> + <i>BOOK II</i>. + </h3> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. I</i>. A Garden <i>Derived</i> and <i>Defin'd;</i> its <i>Dignity, + Diſtinction</i>, and <i>Sorts</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. II</i>. Of a <i>Gardiner</i>, how to be <i>qualify 'd, regarded</i> + and <i>rewarded</i>; his <i>Habitation, Cloathing, Diet</i>, Under-<i>Workmen</i> + and <i>Aſſistants</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. III</i>. Of the <i>Inſtruments</i> belonging to a Gardiner; + their various <i>Uſes</i>, and <i>Machanical</i> Powers. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. IV</i>. Of the <i>Terms</i> us'd, and affected by Gardiners. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. V</i>. Of <i>Encloſing, Fencing, Plotting</i>, and diſpoſing + of the Ground; and of <i>Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, + &c.</i> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. VI</i>. Of a <i>Seminary, Nurſeries</i>; and of Propagating + <i>Trees, Plants</i> and <i>Flowers, Planting</i> and <i>Tranſplanting, + &c.</i> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. VII</i>. Of <i>Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks</i> + and <i>Emboſſments</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>Chap. VIII</i>. Of <i>Groves, + Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles, Cloſe-Walks, Galleries, + Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns</i>, and other <i>Relievo's</i>; of <i>Topiary</i> + and <i>Hortulan Architecture</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. IX</i>. Of <i>Fountains, Jetto's, Caſcades, Rivulets, Piſcinas, + Canals, Baths</i>, and other Natural, and Artificial <i>Water-works</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. X</i>. Of <i>Rocks, Grotts, Cryptæ, Mounts, Precipices, + Ventiducts, Conſervatories</i>, of <i>Ice</i> and <i>Snow</i>, and + other Hortulan Refreſhments. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XI</i>. Of <i>Statues, Buſts, Obelisks, Columns, Inſcriptions, + Dials, Vaſa's, Perſpectives, Paintings</i>, and other Ornaments. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XII</i>. Of <i>Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres</i>, Artificial <i>Echo's, + Automata</i> and <i>Hydraulic Musck</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XIII</i>. Of <i>Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Inſects, &c.</i> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XIV</i>. Of <i>Verdures, Perennial Greens</i>, and <i>Perpetual + Springs</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XV</i>. Of <i>Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves</i>, + and Conſervatories of Tender <i>Plants</i> and <i>Fruits</i>, and how + to order them. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XVI</i>. Of the <i>Coronary</i> Garden: <i>Flowers</i> and <i>Rare + Plants</i>, how they are to be <i>Raiſed, Governed</i> and <i>Improved</i>; + and how the Gardiner <i>is</i> to keep his <i>Regiſter</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>Chap. XVII</i>. Of the <i>Philoſophical + Medical</i> Garden. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XVIII</i>. Of <i>Stupendous</i> and <i>Wonderful</i> <i>Plants</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XIX</i>. Of the <i>Hort-Yard</i> and <i>Potagere</i>; and what <i>Fruit-Trees, + Olitory</i> and <i>Eſculent</i> <i>Plants</i>, may be admitted into a + Garden of Pleaſure. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XX</i>. Of <i>Sallets</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XXI</i>. Of a <i>Vineyard</i>, and Directions concerning the + making of <i>Wine</i> and other <i>Vinous</i> Liquors, and of <i>Teas</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XXII</i>. Of <i>Watering, Pruning, Plaſhing, Palliſading, + Nailing, Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleanſing, &c.</i> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XXIII</i>. Of the <i>Enemies</i> and <i>Infirmities</i> to which + Gardens are obnoxious, together with <i>Remedies</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XXIV</i>. Of the Gardiner's <i>Almanack</i> or <i>Kalendarium + Hortenſe</i>, directing what he is to do Monthly, and what <i>Fruits</i> + and <i>Flowers</i> are in prime. + </p> + <h3> + <i>BOOK III</i>. + </h3> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. I</i>. Of <i>Conſerving, Properating, Retarding, + Multiplying, Tranſmuting</i>, and Altering the <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + <i>Species, Forms</i>, and (reputed) <i>Subſtantial Qualities</i> of + <i>Plants, Fruits</i> and <i>Flowers</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. II</i>. Of the Hortulan <i>Elaboratory</i>; and of <i>diſtilling</i> + and <i>extracting</i> of <i>Waters, Spirits, Eſſences, Salts, + Colours</i>, Reſuſcitation of <i>Plants</i>, with other rare + Experiments, and an Account of their <i>Virtues</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. III</i>. Of Compoſing the <i>Hortus Hyemalis</i>, and making + Books, of <i>Natural, Arid Plants</i> and <i>Flowers</i>, with ſeveral + Ways of Preſerving them in their <i>Beauty</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. IV</i>. Of <i>Painting</i> of Flowers, Flowers <i>enamell'd, + Silk, Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Paſts, Horns, Glaſs, Shells, + Feathers, Moſs, Pietra Comeſſa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, + Carvings</i>, and other Artificial Repreſentations of them. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. V</i>. Of <i>Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Feſtoons, Encarpa, + Flower-Pots, Noſegays, Poeſes, Deckings</i>, and other Flowery + <i>Pomps</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. VI</i>. Of <i>Hortulan Laws</i> and <i>Privileges</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. VII</i>. Of the <i>Hortulan Study</i>, and of a <i>Library, + Authors</i> and <i>Books</i> aſſiſtant to it. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. VIII</i>. Of <i>Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral</i>, + and <i>Political</i>; with divers <i>Hiſtorical</i> Paſſages, + and Solemnities, to <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> ſhew the <i>Riches, + Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight</i>, and Univerſal Uſe of + Gardens. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. IX</i>. Of Garden <i>Burial</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. X</i>. Of <i>Paradiſe</i>, and of the moſt <i>Famous + Gardens</i> in the World, <i>Ancient</i> and <i>Modern</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XI</i>. The Deſcription of a <i>Villa</i>. + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <i>Chap. XII</i>. The <i>Corollary</i> and <i>Concluſion</i>. + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + ——<i>Laudato ingentia rura</i>, + </p> + <p> + <i>Exiguum colito</i>.—— + </p> + </div> + </div> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page1" name="page1"></a>[1]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <div style="width: 100%;"> + <img src="images/acetaria-h.png" style="width: 100%;" alt="Headpiece" /> + </div> + <h2> + ACETARIA: <br /> A Diſcourse of Sallets + </h2> + <hr /> + <p style="text-indent: 0em;"> + <span class="dropcap">S</span> <span class="smallcap">allets</span> in + general conſiſt of certain <i>Eſculent</i> Plants and + Herbs, improv'd by Culture, Induſtry, and Art of the <i>Gard'ner</i>: + Or, as others ſay, they are a Compoſition of <i>Edule</i> Plants + and Roots of ſeveral kinds, to be eaten <i>Raw</i> or <i>Green, + Blanch'd</i> or <i>Candied</i>: ſimple--and <i>per ſe</i>, or + intermingl'd with others according to the Seaſon. The Boil'd, Bak'd, + Pickl'd, or otherwiſe diſguis'd, variouſly accommodated by + the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine Palat, or + Herbs rather for the Pot, <i>&c.</i> challenge not the name of <i>Sallet</i> + ſo properly here, tho' ſometimes mention'd; And therefore, + </p> + <p> + Thoſe who <i>Criticize</i> not ſo nicely upon the Word, ſeem + to diſtinguiſh the <a href="#note-4" name="noteref-4" + class="noteref" id="noteref-4"><sup>4</sup></a><i>Olera</i> (which were + never eaten <i>Raw</i>) from <i>Acetaria</i>, which <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page2" name="page2"></a>[2]</span> were never <i>Boil'd;</i> and + ſo they derive the Etymology of <i>Olus</i>, from <i>Olla, the Pot</i>. + But others deduce it from <span class="Greek" title="Olos">Όλος</span>, + comprehending the <i>Univerſal Genus</i> of the Vegetable Kingdom; as + from <span class="Greek" title="Pan"> Παν</span> + <!-- [Greek: Pan] --> <i>Panis;</i> eſteeming that he who had <a + href="#note-5" name="noteref-5" class="noteref" id="noteref-5"><sup>5</sup></a><i>Bread</i> + and <i>Herbs</i>, was ſufficiently bleſs'd with all a frugal Man + cou'd need or deſire: Others again will have it, <i>ab Olendo</i>, + i.e. <i>Creſcendo</i>, from its continual <i>growth and ſpringing + up</i>: So the younger <i>Scaliger</i> on <i>Varro</i>: But his Father <i>Julius</i> + extends it not ſo generally to all Plants, as to all the <i>Eſculents</i>, + according to the Text: <i>We call thoſe</i> Olera (ſays <a + href="#note-6" name="noteref-6" class="noteref" id="noteref-6"><sup>6</sup></a><i>Theophraſtus) + which are commonly eaten</i>, in which ſenſe it may be taken, to + include both <i>Boil'd</i> and <i>Raw</i>: Laſt of all, <i>ab Alendo</i>, + as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the <a + href="#note-7" name="noteref-7" class="noteref" id="noteref-7"><sup>7</sup></a>Creation. + </p> + <p> + A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the <i>Cumini + Sectores</i>, and impertinently Curious; whilſt as it concerns <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page3" name="page3"></a>[3]</span> the buſineſs + in hand, we are by <i>Sallet</i> to underſtand a particular Compoſition + of certain <i>Crude</i> and freſh Herbs, such as uſually are, or + may ſafely be eaten with ſome <i>Acetous</i> Juice, <i>Oyl, Salt</i>, + &c. to give them a grateful Guſt and <i>Vehicle</i>; excluſive + of the <a href="#note-8" name="noteref-8" class="noteref" id="noteref-8"><sup>8</sup></a> + <span class="Greek" title="psuchrai trapezai"> ψυχραι + τραπεζαι</span>, + <!-- [Greek: psuchrai trapezai] --> eaten without their due Correctives, + which the Learned <a href="#note-9" name="noteref-9" class="noteref" + id="noteref-9"><sup>9</sup></a><i>Salmaſius</i>, and, indeed + generally, the <a href="#note-10" name="noteref-10" class="noteref" + id="noteref-10"><sup>10</sup></a>old <i>Phyſicians</i> affirm (and + that truly) all <i>Crude</i> and raw <span class="Greek" title="lachana">λαχανα</span> + <!-- [Greek: lachana] --> require to render them wholſome; ſo + as probably they were from hence, as <a href="#note-11" name="noteref-11" + class="noteref" id="noteref-11"><sup>11</sup></a><i>Pliny</i> thinks, + call'd <i>Acetaria</i>: and not (as <i>Hermolaus</i> and ſome others) + <i>Acceptaria ab Accipiendo</i>; nor from Accedere, though ſo <a + href="#note-12" name="noteref-12" class="noteref" id="noteref-12"><sup>12</sup></a>ready + at hand, and eaſily dreſs'd; requiring neither <i>Fire, Coſt</i>, + or <i>Attendance</i>, to boil, roaſt, and prepare them as did Fleſh, + and other Proviſions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were + always in uſe, <i>&c.</i> And hence indeed the more frugal <i>Italians</i> + and <i>French</i>, to this Day, gather <i>Ogni Verdura</i>, any thing almoſt + that's <i>Green</i> and Tender, to the very Tops of <i>Nettles</i>; ſo + as every Hedge affords <span class="pagenum"><a id="page4" name="page4"></a>[4]</span> + a <i>Sallet</i> (not unagreeable) ſeaſon'd with its proper <i>Oxybaphon</i> + of <i>Vinegar, Salt, Oyl</i>, &c. which doubtleſs gives it both + the Reliſh and Name of <i>Salad, Emſalada</i> <a href="#note-13" + name="noteref-13" class="noteref" id="noteref-13"><sup>13</sup></a>, as + with us of <i>Sallet</i>; from the <i>Sapidity</i>, which renders not <i>Plants</i> + and <i>Herbs</i> alone, but <i>Men</i> themſelves, and their Converſations, + pleaſant and agreeable: But of this enough, and perhaps too much; leaſt + whilſt I write of <i>Salt</i> and <i>Sallet</i>, I appear my ſelf + <i>Inſipid</i>: I paſs therefore to the Ingredients, which we + will call + </p> + <h3> + Furniture <i>and</i> Materials + </h3> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + <span class="dropcap">T</span> <span class="smallcap">he</span> <i>Materials</i> + of <i>Sallets</i>, which together with the groſſer <i>Olera</i>, + conſiſt of <i>Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers</i>, &c. + <i>Fruits</i> (belonging to another Claſs) would require a much + ampler Volume, than would ſuit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends + to be an <i>Appendix</i> only) ſhould we extend the following <i>Catalogue</i> + further than to a brief enumeration only of ſuch <i>Herbaceous</i> + Plants, <i>Oluſcula</i> and smaller <i>Eſculents</i>, as are + chiefly us'd in <i>Cold Sallets</i>, of whose Culture we have treated + there; and as <span class="pagenum"><a id="page5" name="page5"></a>[5]</span> + we gather them from the <i>Mother</i> and <i>Genial Bed</i>, with a touch + only of their <i>Qualities</i>, for Reasons hereafter given. + </p> + <p> + 1. Alexanders, <i>Hippoſelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare</i> (much of the + nature of <i>Perſly</i>) is moderately hot, and of a cleanſing + Faculty, Deobſtructing, nouriſhing, and comforting the Stomach. + The gentle freſh Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be choſen, and + the Stalks eaten in the Spring; and when <i>Blanch'd</i>, in Winter likewiſe, + with <i>Oyl, Pepper, Salt</i>, &c. by themſelves, or in Compoſition: + They make alſo an excellent <i>Vernal</i> Pottage. + </p> + <p> + 2. Artichaux, <i>Cinara</i>, (<i>Carduus Sativus</i>) hot and dry. The + Heads being ſlit in quarters firſt eaten raw, with <i>Oyl</i>, a + little <i>Vinegar, Salt</i>, and <i>Pepper</i>, gratefully recommend a Glaſs + of <i>Wine</i>; Dr. <i>Muffet</i> ſays, at the end of Meals. + </p> + <p> + They are likewiſe, whilſt tender and ſmall, fried in freſh + <i>Butter</i> criſp with <i>Perſley</i>. But then become a moſt + delicate and excellent Reſtorative, when full grown, they are boil'd + the common way. The <i>Bottoms</i> are alſo bak'd in <i>Pies</i>, + with <i>Marrow, Dates</i>, and other rich Ingredients: In <i>Italy</i> + they ſometimes broil them, and as the Scaly Leaves open, baſte + them with freſh and ſweet <i>Oyl</i>; but with Care + extraordinary, <span class="pagenum"><a id="page6" name="page6"></a>[6]</span> + for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that hazard eſcap'd, + they eat them with the Juice of <i>Orange</i> and <i>Sugar</i>. + </p> + <p> + The Stalk is <i>Blanch'd</i> in Autumn, and the <i>Pith</i> eaten raw or + boil'd. The way of preſerving them freſh all Winter, is by + ſeparating the <i>Bottoms</i> from the <i>Leaves</i>, and after + Parboiling, allowing to every <i>Bottom</i>, a ſmall earthen glaz'd + Pot; burying it all over in freſh melted <i>Butter</i>, as they do + Wild-Fowl, <i>&c.</i> Or if more than one, in a larger Pot, in the + ſame Bed and Covering, <i>Layer</i> upon <i>Layer</i>. + </p> + <p> + They are alſo preſerv'd by ſtringing them on Pack-thread, a + clean Paper being put between every <i>Bottom</i>, to hinder them from + touching one another, and ſo hung up in a dry place. They are likewiſe + <i>Pickl'd</i>. + </p> + <p> + 'Tis not very long ſince this noble <i>Thiſtle</i> came firſt + into <i>Italy</i>, Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and ſo rare + in <i>England</i>, that they were commonly ſold for <i>Crowns</i> a + piece: But what <i>Carthage</i> yearly ſpent in them (as <i>Pliny</i> + computes the Sum) amounted to <i>Seſtertia Sena Millia</i>, 30000 <i>l. + Sterling</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>Note</i>, That the <i>Spaniſh Cardon</i>, a wild and ſmaller + <i>Artichoak</i>, with ſharp pointed Leaves, and leſſer + Head; the Stalks being <i>Blanch'd</i> and <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page7" name="page7"></a>[7]</span> tender, are ſerv'd-up <i>a la + Poiverade</i> (that is with <i>Oyl, Pepper</i>, &c.) as the <i>French</i> + term is. + </p> + <p> + 3. Baſil, <i>Ocimum</i> (as <i>Baulm</i>) imparts a grateful Flavour, + if not too ſtrong, ſomewhat offenſive to the Eyes; and + therefore the tender Tops to be very ſparingly us'd in our <i>Sallet</i>. + </p> + <p> + 4. Baulm, <i>Meliſſa, Baum</i>, hot and dry, Cordial and + exhilarating, ſovereign for the Brain, ſtrengthning the Memory, + and powerfully chaſing away <i>Melancholy</i>. The tender Leaves are + us'd in Compoſition with other Herbs; and the Sprigs freſh + gather'd, put into <i>Wine</i> or other Drinks, during the heat of Summer, + give it a marvellous quickneſs: This noble Plant yields an + incomparable <i>Wine</i>, made as is that of <i>Cowſlip</i>-Flowers. + </p> + <p> + 5. Beet, <i>Beta</i>; of which there is both <i>Red, Black</i>, and <i>White</i>: + The <i>Coſta</i>, or Rib of the <i>White Beet</i> (by the <i>French</i> + call'd the <i>Chard</i>) being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And + the <i>Roots</i> (eſpecially of the <i>Red</i>) cut into thin ſlices, + boil'd, when cold, is of it ſelf a grateful winter <i>Sallet</i>; or + being mingl'd with other <i>Oluſcula, Oyl, Vinegar, Salt</i>, &c. + 'Tis of quality Cold and Moiſt, and naturally ſomewhat <i>Laxative</i>: + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page8" name="page8"></a>[8]</span> But + however by the <i>Epigrammatiſt</i> ſtil'd <i>Fooliſh</i> + and <i>Inſipid, as Innocentior quam Olus</i> (for ſo the Learned + <a href="#note-14" name="noteref-14" class="noteref" id="noteref-14"><sup>14</sup></a><i>Harduin</i> + reads the place) 'tis by <i>Diphilus</i> of old, and others ſince, + preferr'd before <i>Cabbage</i> as of better Nouriſhment: <i>Martial</i> + (not unlearn'd in the Art of <i>Sallet</i>) commends it with <i>Wine</i> + and <i>Pepper</i>: He names it indeed—<i>Fabrorum prandia</i>, for + its being ſo vulgar. But eaten with <i>Oyl</i> and <i>Vinegar</i>, as + uſually, it is no deſpicable <i>Sallet</i>. There is a <i>Beet</i> + growing near the Sea, which is the moſt delicate of all. The Roots of + the <i>Red Beet</i>, pared into thin Slices and Circles, are by the <i>French</i> + and <i>Italians</i> contriv'd into curious Figures to adorn their <i>Sallets</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>6</i>. Blite, <i>Blitum</i>; Engliſh <i>Mercury</i>, or (as our + Country Houſe wives call it) <i>All-good</i>, the gentle <i>Turiones</i>, + and Tops may be eaten as <i>Sparagus</i>, or ſodden in Pottage: There + is both a white and red, much us'd in <i>Spain</i> and <i>Italy</i>; but + beſides its humidity and deterſive Nature, 'tis <i>Inſipid</i> + enough. + </p> + <p> + 7. Borrage, <i>Borrago</i> (<i>Gaudia semper ago</i>) hot and kindly moiſt, + purifying the Blood, is an <span class="pagenum"><a id="page9" name="page9"></a>[9]</span> + exhilarating Cordial, of a pleaſant Flavour: The tender Leaves, and + Flowers eſpecially, may be eaten in Compoſition; but above all, + the Sprigs in <i>Wine</i>, like thoſe of <i>Baum</i>, are of known + Vertue to revive the <i>Hypochondriac</i>, and chear the hard Student. See + <i>Bugloſs</i>. + </p> + <p> + 8. Brooklime, <i>Anagallis aquatica</i>; moderately hot and moiſt, + prevalent in the <i>Scorbute</i>, and <i>Stone</i>. + </p> + <p> + 9. Bugloſs, <i>Bugloſſum</i>; in mature much like <i>Borrage</i>, + yet ſomething more aſtringent. The Flowers of both, with the + intire Plant, greatly reſtorative, being Conſerv'd: And for the + reſt, ſo much commended by <i>Averroes</i>; that for its + effects, cheriſhing the Spirits, juſtly call'd <i>Euphroſynum</i>; + Nay, ſome will have it the <i>Nepenthes</i> of <i>Homer</i>: But + indeed, what we now call <i>Bugloſs</i>, was not that of the + Ancients, but rather <i>Borrage</i>, for the like Virtue named <i>Corrago</i>. + </p> + <p> + Burnet, See <i>Pimpinella</i>. + </p> + <p> + 10. Buds, <i>Gemmæ, Turiones</i>; the firſt Rudiments and Tops + of moſt <i>Sallet</i>-Plants, preferrable to all other leſs + tender Parts; ſuch as <i>Aſhen-Keys, Broom-buds</i>, hot and + dry, retaining <span class="pagenum"><a id="page10" name="page10"></a>[10]</span> + the vertue of <i>Capers</i>, eſteem'd to be very opening, and + prevalent againſt the <i>Spleen</i> and <i>Scurvy</i>; and being <i>Pickl'd</i>, + are ſprinkl'd among the <i>Sallets</i>, or eaten by themſelves. + </p> + <p> + 11. Cabbage, <i>Braſſica</i> (and its ſeveral kinds) <i>Pompey's</i> + beloved Diſh, ſo highly celebrated by old <a href="#note-15" + name="noteref-15" class="noteref" id="noteref-15"><sup>15</sup></a><i>Cato</i>, + <i>Pythagoras</i>, and <i>Chryſippus</i> the Phyſician (as the + only <i>Panacea</i>) is not ſo generally magnify'd by the reſt + of Doctors, as affording but a craſs and melancholy Juice; yet <i>Looſening</i> + if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, <i>Aſtringent</i>, according + to <i>C. Celſus</i>; and therefore ſeldom eaten raw, excepting + by the <i>Dutch</i>. The <i>Cymæ</i>, or Sprouts rather of the <i>Cole</i> + are very delicate, ſo boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green + Colour. In raiſing this <i>Plant</i> great care is to be had of the + Seed. The beſt comes from <i>Denmark</i> and <i>Ruſſia</i>, + eſpecially the <i>Cauly-flower</i>, (anciently unknown) or from <i>Aleppo</i>. + Of the <i>French</i>, the <i>Pancaliere a la large Costé</i>, the + white, large and ponderous are to be choſen; and ſo the <i>Cauly-flower</i>: + After boiling ſome ſteep them in Milk, and ſeethe them + again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little <i>Nitre</i>. The <i>Broccoli</i> + from <i>Naples</i>, perhaps the <span class="pagenum"><a id="page11" + name="page11"></a>[11]</span> <i>Halmyridia</i> of <i>Pliny</i> (or <i>Athenæus</i> + rather) <i>Capiata marina</i> & <i>florida</i>, our <i>Sea-keele</i> + (the ancient <i>Crambe</i>) and growing on our Coaſt, are very + delicate, as are the <i>Savoys</i>, commended for being not ſo rank, + but agreeable to moſt <i>Palates</i>, and of better Nouriſhment: + In general, <i>Cabbages</i> are thought to allay Fumes, and prevent + Intoxication: But ſome will have them noxious to the Sight; others + impute it to the <i>Cauly-flower</i> rather: But whilſt the Learned + are not agreed about it, <i>Theophraſtus</i> affirms the contrary, + and <i>Pliny</i> commends the Juice raw, with a little <i>Honey</i>, for + the moiſt and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, <i>Cabbage</i> + ('tis confeſs'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigeſted in the + Stomach, and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the + Veneration we read the Ancients had for them, calling them <i>Divine</i>, + and Swearing, <i>per Braſſicam</i>. 'Tis ſcarce an hundred + Years ſince we firſt had <i>Cabbages</i> out of <i>Holland</i>. + Sir <i>Anth. Aſhley</i> of <i>Wiburg St. Giles</i> in <i>Dorſetſhire</i>, + being (as I am told) the firſt who planted them in <i>England</i>. + </p> + <p> + 12. Cardon, See <i>Artichaux</i>. + </p> + <p> + 13. Carrots, <i>Dauci</i>, or <i>Paſtinaca Sativa</i>; temperately + warm and dry, Spicy; the beſt are <span class="pagenum"><a id="page12" + name="page12"></a>[12]</span> yellow, very nouriſhing; let them be + rais'd in Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy. + </p> + <p> + 14. Chervile, <i>Chærophyllum, Myrrhis</i>; The ſweet aromatick + <i>Spaniſh Chervile</i>, moderately hot and dry: The tender <i>Cimæ</i>, + and Tops, with other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our <i>Sallets</i>, + (as long as they may be had) being exceedingly wholſome and chearing + the Spirits: The <i>Roots</i> are alſo boil'd and eaten Cold; much + commended for Aged Perſons: This (as likewiſe <i>Spinach</i>) is + us'd in <i>Tarts</i>, and ſerves alone for divers Sauces. + </p> + <table summary="" style="margin-left: 1em;"> + <tr> + <td> + Cibbols. + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + Vide Onions, <i>Schœnopræſſon</i>. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + Cives. + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <p> + 15. Clary, <i>Horminum</i>, when tender not to be rejected, and in <i>Omlets</i>, + made up with <i>Cream</i>, fried in ſweet <i>Butter</i>, are eaten + with <i>Sugar</i>, Juice of <i>Orange</i>, or <i>Limon</i>. + </p> + <p> + 16. Clavers, <i>Aparine</i>; the tender Winders, with young <i>Nettle-Tops</i>, + are us'd in <i>Lenten</i> Pottages. + </p> + <p> + 17. Corn-ſallet, <i>Valerianella</i>; loos'ning and refreſhing: + The Tops and Leaves are a <i>Sallet</i> <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page13" name="page13"></a>[13]</span> of themſelves, ſeaſonably + eaten with other Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The + <i>French</i> call them <i>Salad de Preter</i>, for their being generally + eaten in <i>Lent</i>. + </p> + <p> + 18. Cowſlips, <i>Paralyſis</i>: See <i>Flowers</i>. + </p> + <p> + 19. Creſſes, <i>Naſturtium</i>, Garden <i>Creſſes</i>; + to be monthly ſown: But above all the <i>Indian</i>, moderately hot, + and aromatick, quicken the torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are + of ſingular effect againſt the <i>Scorbute</i>. Both the tender + Leaves, <i>Calices, Cappuchin Capers</i>, and <i>Flowers</i>, are laudably + mixed with the colder Plants. The <i>Buds</i> being Candy'd, are likewiſe + us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the <i>Naſtur. Hybernicum</i> + commended alſo, and the vulgar <i>Water-Creſs</i>, proper in the + Spring, all of the ſame Nature, tho' of different Degrees, and best + for raw and cold Stomachs, but nouriſh little. + </p> + <p> + 20. Cucumber, <i>Cucumis</i>; tho' very cold and moiſt, the moſt + approved <i>Sallet</i> alone, or in Compoſition, of all the <i>Vinaigrets</i>, + to ſharpen the Appetite, and cool the Liver, <a href="#note-16" + name="noteref-16" class="noteref" id="noteref-16"><sup>16</sup></a><i>&c.</i> + if rightly <span class="pagenum"><a id="page14" name="page14"></a>[14]</span> + prepar'd; that is, by rectifying the vulgar Miſtake of altogether + extracting the Juice, in which it ſhould rather be ſoak'd: Nor + ought it to be over <i>Oyl'd</i>, too much abating of its grateful <i>Acidity</i>, + and <i>palling</i> the Taſte from a contrariety of Particles: Let + them therefore be pared, and cut in thin Slices, with a <i>Clove</i> or + two of <i>Onion</i> to correct the Crudity, macerated in the Juice, often + turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others prepare them, by ſhaking the + Slices between two Diſhes, and dreſs them with very little <i>Oyl</i>, + well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of <i>Limon, Orange</i>, or <i>Vinegar, + Salt</i> and <i>Pepper</i>. Some again, (and indeed the moſt + approv'd) eat them as ſoon as they are cut, retaining their Liquor, + which being exhauſted (by the former Method) have nothing remaining + in them to help the Concoction. Of old they <a href="#note-17" + name="noteref-17" class="noteref" id="noteref-17"><sup>17</sup></a>boil'd + the <i>Cucumber</i>, and paring off the Rind, eat them with <i>Oyl, + Vinegar</i>, and <i>Honey</i>; <i>Sugar</i> not being ſo well known. + Laſtly, the <i>Pulp</i> in Broth is greatly refreſhing, and may + be mingl'd in moſt <i>Sallets</i>, without the leaſt damage, + contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, ſince <i>Cucumber</i>, + however dreſs'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being accounted + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page15" name="page15"></a>[15]</span> little + better than Poyſon. <i>Tavernier</i> tells us, that in the <i>Levant</i>, + if a Child cry for ſomething to Eat, they give it a raw <i>Cucumber</i> + inſtead of <i>Bread</i>. The young ones may be boil'd in White-Wine. + The ſmaller sort (known by the name of <i>Gerckems</i>) muriated with + the Seeds of <i>Dill</i>, and the <i>Mango</i> Pickle are for the Winter. + </p> + <p> + 21. Daiſy, <i>Buphthalmum</i>, Ox-Eye, or <i>Bellis-major</i>: The + young <i>Roots</i> are frequently eaten by the <i>Spaniards</i> and <i>Italians</i> + all the Spring till <i>June</i>. + </p> + <p> + 22. Dandelion, <i>Dens Leonis, Condrilla</i>: Macerated in ſeveral + Waters, to extract the bitterneſs; tho' ſomewhat opening, is + very wholſome, and little inferior to <i>Succory, Endive</i>, &c. + The <i>French</i> Country-People eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely + <i>Sallet</i>, the Good-Wife <i>Hecate</i> entertain'd <i>Theſeus</i>. + See <i>Sowthiſtle</i>. + </p> + <p> + 23. Dock, <i>Oxylapathum</i>, or ſharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and + tho' otherwiſe not for our <i>Sallet</i>, the <i>Roots</i> brewed in + <i>Ale</i> or <i>Beer</i>, are excellent for the <i>Scorbute</i>. + </p> + <p> + Earth-Nuts, <i>Bulbo-Caſtanum</i>; (found in divers places of <i>Surry</i>, + near <i>Kingſton</i>, and other <span class="pagenum"><a id="page16" + name="page16"></a>[16]</span> parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude + by Rustics, with a little <i>Pepper</i>; but are beſt boil'd like + other Roots, or in Pottage rather, and are ſweet and nouriſhing. + </p> + <p> + 24. Elder, <i>Sambucus</i>; The Flowers infus'd in <i>Vinegar</i>, + grateful both to the Stomach and Taſte; attenuate thick and viſcid + Humours; and tho' the Leaves are ſomewhat rank of Smell, and ſo + not commendable in <i>Sallet</i>; they are otherwiſe (as indeed is + the intire Shrub) of the most ſovereign Vertue; and the ſpring + Buds and tender Leaves, excellently wholſome in Pottage at that Seaſon + of the Year. See <i>Flowers</i>. + </p> + <p> + 25. Endive, <i>Endivium, Intubum Sativum</i>; the largeſt, whiteſt, + and tendereſt Leaves beſt boil'd, and leſs crude. It is + naturally Cold, profitable for hot Stomachs; <i>Inciſive</i> and + opening Obſtructions of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being + eaten alone, or in Compoſition, with the uſual <i>Intinctus</i>: + It is alſo excellent being boil'd; the middle part of the + Blanch'd-Stalk ſeparated, eats firm, and the ampler Leaves by many + perferr'd before <i>Lettuce</i>. See <i>Succory</i>. + </p> + <p> + Eſchalot. See <i>Onions</i>. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page17" name="page17"></a>[17]</span> 26. + Fennel, <i>Fœniculum</i>: The ſweeteſt of <i>Bolognia</i>: + Aromatick, hot, and dry; expels Wind, ſharpens the Sight, and + recreates the Brain; eſpecially the tender <i>Umbella</i> and + Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be peel'd when young, and then dreſs'd + like <i>Sellery</i>. The tender Tufts and Leaves emerging, being minc'd, + are eaten alone with <i>Vinegar</i>, or <i>Oyl</i>, and <i>Pepper</i>, and + to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into Compoſition. The + <i>Italians</i> eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call <i>Cartucci</i>) + all Winter long. There is a very ſmall <i>Green-Worm</i>, which + ſometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken + out, as the <i>Red</i> one in that of <i>Sellery</i>. + </p> + <p> + 27. Flowers, <i>Flores</i>; chiefly of the <i>Aromatick Eſculents</i> + and Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their + <i>Simples</i>, in a more intenſe degree; and may therefore be eaten + alone in their proper <i>Vehicles</i>, or Compoſition with other <i>Salleting</i>, + ſprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Reliſh, being + Infus'd in <i>Vinegar</i>; Eſpecially thoſe of the <i>Clove-Gillyflower, + Elder, Orange, Cowſlip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Naſturtium + Indicum</i>, &c. Some of them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make alſo + very pleasant and wholſome <i>Theas</i>, as do likewiſe the Wild + <i>Time, Bugloſſ, Mint</i>, &c. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page18" name="page18"></a>[18]</span> 28. + Garlick, <i>Allium</i>; dry towards Exceſs; and tho' both by <i>Spaniards</i> + and <i>Italians</i>, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with + almoſt every thing, and eſteem'd of such ſigular Vertue to + help Conception, and thought a Charm againſt all Infection and Poyſon + (by which it has obtain'd the Name of the <i>Country-man's Theriacle</i>) + we yet think it more proper for our Northern Ruſtics, especially + living in <i>Uliginous</i> and moiſt places, or ſuch as uſe + the <i>Sea</i>: Whilſt we abſolutely forbid it entrance into our + <i>Salleting</i>, by reaſon of its intolerable Rankneſs, and + which made it ſo deteſted of old; that the eating of it was (as + we read) part of the Puniſhment for ſuch as had committed the + horrid'ſt Crimes. To be ſure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats, nor + thoſe who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the Diſh, + with a <i>Clove</i> thereof, much better ſupply'd by the gentler <i>Roccombo</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>Note</i>, That in <i>Spain</i> they ſometimes eat it boil'd, which + taming its fierceneſs, turns it into Nouriſhment, or rather <i>Medicine</i>. + </p> + <p> + Ginny-Pepper, <i>Capſicum</i>. See <i>Pepper</i>. + </p> + <p> + 29. Goats-beard, <i>Trago-pogon:</i> The <i>Root</i> is excellent even in + <i>Sallet</i>, and very Nutritive, <span class="pagenum"><a id="page19" + name="page19"></a>[19]</span> exceeding profitable for the Breaſt, + and may be ſtew'd and dreſs'd as <i>Scorzonera</i>. + </p> + <p> + 30. Hops, <i>Lupulus</i>: Hot and moiſt, rather <i>Medicinal</i>, + than fit for <i>Sallet</i>; the <i>Buds</i> and young <i>Tendrels</i> + excepted, which may be eaten raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and + cold like <i>Aſparagus</i>: They are <i>Diuretic</i>; depurate the + Blood, and open Obſtructions. + </p> + <p> + 31. Hyſſop, <i>Hyſſopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; + Majoran, Mary-gold</i>, &c. as all hot, ſpicy <i>Aromatics</i>, + (commonly growing in <i>Kitchin-Gardens</i>) are of Faculty to Comfort, + and ſtrengthen; prevalent againſt Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, + like theſe, going under the Names of <i>Pot Herbs</i>, are much more + proper for <i>Broths</i> and <i>Decoctions</i>, than the tender <i>Sallet</i>: + Yet the <i>Tops</i> and <i>Flowers</i> reduc'd to Powder, are by ſome + reſerv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; communicating no + ungrateful Fragrancy. + </p> + <p> + 32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, <i>Alliaria</i>, or <i>Sauce-alone</i>; has many + Medicinal Properties, and is eaten as other <i>Sallets</i>, eſpecially + by Country People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page20" name="page20"></a>[20]</span> + </p> + <p> + 33. Leeks, and <i>Cibbols, Porrum</i>; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, + ſince <i>Latona</i>, the Mother of <i>Appolo</i> long'd after them: + The <i>Welch</i>, who eat them much, are obſerv'd to be very + fruitful: They are alſo friendly to the Lungs and Stomach, being + ſod in Milk; a few therefore of the ſlender and green Summities, + a little ſhred, do not amiſs in Compoſition. See <i>Onion</i>. + </p> + <p> + 34. Lettuce, <i>Lactuca</i>: Tho' by <i>Metaphor</i> call'd <a + href="#note-18" name="noteref-18" class="noteref" id="noteref-18"><sup>18</sup></a><i>Mortuorum + Cibi</i>, (to ſay nothing of <a href="#note-19" name="noteref-19" + class="noteref" id="noteref-19"><sup>19</sup></a><i>Adonis</i> and his + ſad <i>Miſtriſs</i>) by reason of its <i>Soporiferous</i> + quality, ever was, and ſtill continues the principal Foundation of + the univerſal <i>Tribe</i> of <i>Sallets</i>; which is to Cool and + Refreſh, beſides its other Properties: And therefore in ſuch + high eſteem with the Ancients; that divers of the <i>Valerian</i> + Family, dignify'd and enobled their Name with that of <i>Lactucinii</i>. + </p> + <p> + It is indeed of Nature more cold and moiſt than any of the reſt; + yet leſs aſtringent, and ſo harmleſs that it may + ſafely be eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page21" name="page21"></a>[21]</span> + extinguiſhes Thirſt, excites Appetite, kindly Nouriſhes, + and above all repreſſes Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates + Pain; beſides the effect it has upon the Morals, <i>Temperance</i> + and <i>Chaſtity</i>. Galen (whoſe beloved <i>Sallet</i> it was) + from its <i>pinguid, ſubdulcid</i> and agreeable Nature, ſays it + breeds the moſt laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the + Ancients called <i>Sana</i>, by way of eminency, and ſo highly valu'd + by the great <a href="#note-20" name="noteref-20" class="noteref" + id="noteref-20"><sup>20</sup></a><i>Auguſtus</i>, that attributing + his Recovery of a dangerous Sickneſs to them, 'tis reported, he + erected a <i>Statue</i>, and built an <i>Altar</i> to this noble Plant. + And that the moſt abſtemious and excellent Emperor <a + href="#note-21" name="noteref-21" class="noteref" id="noteref-21"><sup>21</sup></a><i>Tacitus</i> + (ſpending almoſt nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties) + was yet ſo great a Friend to <i>Lettuce</i>, that he was us'd to + ſay of his Prodigality, <i>Somnum ſe mercari illa ſumptus + effuſione</i>. How it was celebrated by <i>Galen</i> we have heard; + how he us'd it he tells himſelf; namely, beginning with <i>Lettuce</i> + in his younger Days, and concluding with it when he grew old, and that to + his great advantage. In a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude + Materials <span class="pagenum"><a id="page22" name="page22"></a>[22]</span> + and <i>Sallet</i> ſtore, ſo proper to mingle with any of the reſt, + nor ſo wholſome to be eaten alone, or in Compoſition, + moderately, and with the uſual <i>Oxelœum</i> of <i>Vinegar, + Pepper</i>, and <i>Oyl</i>, &c. which laſt does not ſo + perfectly agree with the <i>Alphange</i>, to which the Juice of <i>Orange</i>, + or <i>Limon</i> and <i>Sugar</i> is more deſirable: <i>Ariſtoxenus</i> + is reported to have irrigated his <i>Lettuce</i>-Beds with an <i>Oinomelite</i>, + or mixture of <i>Wine</i> and <i>Honey</i>: And certainly 'tis not for + nothing that our Garden-Lovers, and <i>Brothers of the Sallet</i>, have + been ſo exceedingly Induſtrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, + and multiply its <i>Species</i>; for to name a few in preſent uſe: + We have the <i>Alphange</i> of <i>Montpelier</i>, criſp and delicate; + the <i>Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, Cabbage, Capuchin, Coſs-Lettuce, + Curl'd</i>; the <i>Genoa</i> (laſting all the Winter) the <i>Imperial, + Lambs</i>, or <i>Agnine</i>, and <i>Lobbs</i> or <i>Lop-Lettuces</i>. The + <i>French Minion</i> a dwarf kind: The <i>Oak-Leaf, Paſſion, + Roman, Shell</i>, and <i>Sileſian</i>, hard and crimp (eſteemed + of the beſt and rareſt) with divers more: And here let it be + noted, that beſides three or four ſorts of this Plant, and + ſome few of the reſt, there was within our remembrance, rarely + any other <i>Salleting</i> ſerv'd up to the beſt Tables; with + unblanch'd <i>Endive, Succory, Purſelan</i>, (and indeed little other + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page23" name="page23"></a>[23]</span> + variety) <i>Sugar</i> and <i>Vinegar</i> being the conſtant <i>Vehicles</i> + (without <i>Oyl</i>) but now <i>Sugar</i> is almoſt wholly baniſh'd + from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and + taking from the grateful <i>Acid</i> now in uſe, tho' otherwiſe + not totally to be reproved: <i>Lettuce</i> boil'd and <i>Condited</i> is + ſometimes ſpoken of. + </p> + <p> + 35. Limon, <i>Limonia, citrea mala</i>; exceedingly refreſhing, <i>Cordial</i>, + &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, ſecluding the over-ſweet + or bitter. See <i>Orange</i>. + </p> + <p> + 36. Mallow, <i>Malva</i>; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the <i>Ventricle</i>, + and ſo rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, be admitted, + and the reſt (tho' out of uſe at preſent) was taken by the + Poets for all <i>Sallets</i> in general. <i>Pythagoras</i> held <i>Malvæ + folium Sanctiſimum</i>; and we find <i>Epimenides</i> in <a + href="#note-22" name="noteref-22" class="noteref" id="noteref-22"><sup>22</sup></a>Plato + at his <i>Mallows</i> and <i>Aſphodel</i>; and indeed it was of old + the firſt Diſh at Table: The <i>Romans</i> had it alſo <i>in + deliciis</i>, <a href="#note-23" name="noteref-23" class="noteref" + id="noteref-23"><sup>23</sup></a><i>Malvæ ſalubres corpori</i>, + approved by <a href="#note-24" name="noteref-24" class="noteref" + id="noteref-24"><sup>24</sup></a><i>Galen</i> and <a href="#note-25" + name="noteref-25" class="noteref" id="noteref-25"><sup>25</sup></a><i>Dioſcorides</i>; + namely the <i>Garden-Mallow</i>, by others the <i>Wild</i>; but I <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page24" name="page24"></a>[24]</span> think both + proper rather for the <i>Pot</i>, than <i>Sallet</i>. <i>Nonius</i> ſuppoſes + the tall <i>Roſea, Arboreſcent Holi-hocks</i>, that bears the + broad Flower, for the beſt, and very <a href="#note-26" + name="noteref-26" class="noteref" id="noteref-26"><sup>26</sup></a><i>Laxative</i>; + but by reaſon of their clammineſs and <i>Lentor</i>, baniſhed + from our <i>Sallet</i>, tho' by ſome commended and eaten with <i>Oyl</i> + and <i>Vinegar</i>, and ſome with <i>Butter</i>. + </p> + <p> + Mercury, <i>Bonus Henricus</i>, Engliſh Mercury, or <i>Lapathum + Unctuoſum</i>. See <i>Blitum</i>. + </p> + <p> + 37. Melon, <i>Melo</i>; to have been reckon'd rather among <i>Fruits</i>; + and tho' an uſual Ingredient in our <i>Sallet</i>; yet for its tranſcendent + delicacy and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if ſweet, dry, + weighty, and well-fed) not only ſuperior all the <i>Gourd</i>-kind, + but Paragon with the nobleſt Productions of the Garden. <i>Joſ. + Scaliger</i> and <i>Caſaubon</i>, think our <i>Melon</i> unknown to + the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet under the name of <i>Cucumers</i>: + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page25" name="page25"></a>[25]</span> But he + who reads how artificially they were Cultivated, rais'd under Glaſſes, + and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for <i>Tiberius</i>) cannot well doubt of + their being the ſame with ours. + </p> + <p> + There is alſo a <i>Winter-Melon</i>, large and with black Seeds, + exceedingly Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, + where they drink <i>Water</i> after eating <i>Melons</i>; but in the + colder (after all diſpute) <i>Wine</i> is judg'd the better: That it + has indeed by ſome been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as + do all things elſe eaten in exceſs) is not deny'd: But a perfect + good <i>Melon</i> is certainly as harmleſs a Fruit as any whatſoever; + and may ſafely be mingl'd with <i>Sallet</i>, in Pulp or Slices, or + more properly eaten by it ſelf, with a little <i>Salt</i> and <i>Pepper</i>; + for a <i>Melon</i> which requires <i>Sugar</i> to commend it, wants of + Perfection. <i>Note</i>, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in <i>England</i>, + ſo as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir <i>Geo. Gardner</i> came out + of <i>Spain</i>. I my ſelf remembring, when an ordinary <i>Melon</i> + would have been ſold for five or ſix Shillings. The ſmall + unripe Fruit, when the others are paſt, may be Pickl'd with <i>Mango</i>, + and are very delicate. + </p> + <p> + 38. Mint, <i>Mentha</i>; the <i>Anguſtifolia Spicata</i>, Spear-Mint; + dry and warm, very fragrant, a <span class="pagenum"><a id="page26" + name="page26"></a>[26]</span> little preſs'd, is friendly to the weak + Stomach, and powerful againſt all <i>Nervous</i> Crudities: The + gentler Tops of the <i>Orange-Mint</i>, enter well into our Compoſition, + or are grateful alone (as are alſo the other ſorts) with the + Juice of <i>Orange</i>, and a little <i>Sugar</i>. + </p> + <p> + 39. Muſhroms, <i>Fungi</i>; By the <a href="#note-27" + name="noteref-27" class="noteref" id="noteref-27"><sup>27</sup></a>Orator + call'd <i>Terræ</i>, by <i>Porphyry Deorum filii</i>, without Seed + (as produc'd by the Midwifry of <i>Autumnal</i> Thunder-Storms, portending + the Miſchief they cauſe) by the <i>French, Champignons</i>, with + all the Species of the <i>Boletus</i>, &c. for being, as ſome + hold, neither <i>Root, Herb, Flower</i>, nor <i>Fruit</i>, nor to be eaten + crude; ſhould be therefore baniſh'd entry into our <i>Sallet</i>, + were I to order the Compoſition; however ſo highly contended for + by many, as the very principal and top of all the reſt; whilſt I + think them tolerable only (at leaſt in this <i>Climate</i>) if being + freſh and skilfully choſen, they are accommodated with the niceſt + Care and Circumſpection; generally reported to have ſomething + malignant and noxious in them: Nor without cauſe; from the many + ſad Examples, frequent Miſchiefs, and funeſt Accidents they + have produc'd, not only <span class="pagenum"><a id="page27" name="page27"></a>[27]</span> + to particular Perſons, but whole Families: Exalted indeed they were + to the ſecond Courſe of the <i>Cæsarian Tables</i>, with + the noble Title <span class="Greek" title="Brôma theôn"> + Βρωμα θεων</span>, + <!-- [Greek: Brôma theôn] --> a Dainty fit for the <i>Gods</i> + alone; to whom they ſent the Emperor <a href="#note-28" + name="noteref-28" class="noteref" id="noteref-28"><sup>28</sup></a><i>Claudius</i>, + as they have many ſince, to the other World. But he that reads how <a + href="#note-29" name="noteref-29" class="noteref" id="noteref-29"><sup>29</sup></a><i>Seneca</i> + deplores his loſt Friend, that brave Commander <i>Annæus + Serenus</i>, and ſeveral other gallant Perſons with him, who all + of them periſh'd at the same Repaſt; would be apt to ask with + the <a href="#note-30" name="noteref-30" class="noteref" id="noteref-30"><sup>30</sup></a><i>Naturaliſt</i> + (ſpeaking of this ſuſpicious Dainty) <i>Quæ voluptas + tanta ancipitis cibi</i>? and who indeed would hazard it? So true is that + of the Poet; He that eats <i>Muſhroms</i>, many time <i>Nil amplius + edit</i>, eats no more perhaps all his Life after. What other deterring <i>Epithets</i> + are given for our Caution, <span class="Greek" + title="Barê pnigoenta mukêtôn"> Βαρη + πνιγοεντα μυκητων</span>, + <!-- [Greek: Barê pnigoenta mukêtôn] --> <i>heavy</i> + and <i>choaking</i>. (<i>Athenæus</i> reporting of the Poet <i>Euripides's</i>, + finding a Woman and her three Children ſtrangl'd by eating of them) + one would think ſufficient warning. + </p> + <p> + Among theſe comes in the <i>Fungus Reticularis</i>, to be found about + <i>London</i>, as at <i>Fulham</i> and other places; whilſt at no + ſmall charge we <span class="pagenum"><a id="page28" name="page28"></a>[28]</span> + ſend for them into <i>France</i>; as we alſo do for <i>Trufles</i>, + <i>Pig-nuts</i>, and other ſubterraneous <i>Tubera</i>, which in <i>Italy</i> + they fry in Oyl, and eat with <i>Pepper</i>: They are commonly diſcovered + by a <i>Naſute Swine</i> purpoſely brought up; being of a Cheſsnut + Colour, and heady Smell, and not ſeldom found in <i>England</i>, + particularly in a Park of my Lord <i>Cotton's</i> at <i>Ruſhton</i> + or <i>Rusbery</i> in <i>Northampton</i>-ſhire, and doubtleſs in + other <a href="#note-31" name="noteref-31" class="noteref" id="noteref-31"><sup>31</sup></a>places + too were they ſought after. How these rank and provocative Excreſcences + are to be <a href="#note-32" name="noteref-32" class="noteref" + id="noteref-32"><sup>32</sup></a>treated (of themſelves inſipid + enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or <i>Conditure</i>) + that they may do the leſs Miſchief we might here ſet down. + But ſince there be ſo many ways of Dreſſing them, that + I can incourage none to uſe them, for Reaſons given (beſides + that they do not at all concern our ſafer and innocent <i>Sallet</i> + Furniture) I forbear it; and referr thoſe who long after this beloved + <i>Ragout</i>, and other <i>Voluptuaria Venena</i> (as <i>Seneca</i> calls + them) to what our Learned Dr. <i>Lyſter</i> <a href="#note-33" + name="noteref-33" class="noteref" id="noteref-33"><sup>33</sup></a> ſays + of the many Venomous <i>Inſects</i> harbouring and corrupting in a + new found-out Species of <i>Muſhroms</i> had lately in deliciis. + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page29" name="page29"></a>[29]</span> Thoſe, + in the mean time, which are eſteemed beſt, and leſs + pernicious, (of which ſee the <i>Appendix</i>) are ſuch as riſe + in rich, airy, and dry <a href="#note-34" name="noteref-34" class="noteref" + id="noteref-34"><sup>34</sup></a>Paſture-Grounds; growing on the + Staff or <i>Pedicule</i> of about an Inch thick and high; moderately + Swelling (<i>Target</i>-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale + ſaffronish hue, curiouſly radiated in parallel Lines and Edges, + which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But beſides + what the Harveſt-Months produce, they are likewiſe rais'd <a + href="#note-35" name="noteref-35" class="noteref" id="noteref-35"><sup>35</sup></a>Artificially; + as at <i>Naples</i> in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, + heaped upon a certain ſuppoſed <i>Stone</i>, but in truth, (as + the curious and noble <a href="#note-36" name="noteref-36" class="noteref" + id="noteref-36"><sup>36</sup></a><i>Peireſky</i> tells us, he found + to be) nothing but an heap of old <i>Fungus</i>'s, reduc'd and compacted + to a ſtony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and ſprinkle it + with warm Water, in which <i>Muſhroms</i> have been ſteeped. And + in <i>France</i>, by making an hot Bed of <i>Aſſes</i>-Dung, and + when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with + the Parings and Offals of refuſe <span class="pagenum"><a id="page30" + name="page30"></a>[30]</span> <i>Fungus</i>'s; and ſuch a Bed will laſt + two or three Years, and ſometimes our common <i>Melon</i>-Beds afford + them, beſides other Experiments. + </p> + <p> + 40. Muſtard, <i>Sinapi</i>; exceeding hot and <i>mordicant</i>, not + only in the Seed but Leaf alſo; eſpecially in <i>Seedling</i> + young Plants, like thoſe of <i>Radiſhes</i> (newly peeping out + of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits; + ſtrengthening the Memory, expelling heavineſs, preventing the + Vertiginous Palſie, and is a laudable <i>Cephalick</i>. Beſides + it is an approv'd <i>Antiſcorbutick</i>; aids Concoction, cuts and diſſipates + Phlegmatick Humours. In ſhort, 'tis the moſt noble <i>Embamma</i>, + and ſo neceſſary an Ingredient to all cold and raw <i>Salleting</i>, + that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In <i>Italy</i> in + making <i>Muſtard</i>, they mingle <i>Limon</i> and <i>Orange-Peel</i>, + with the Seeds. How the beſt is made, ſee hereafter. + </p> + <p> + <i>Naſturtium Indicum</i>. See <i>Creſſes</i>. + </p> + <p> + 41. Nettles, <i>Urtica</i>; Hot, dry, <i>Diuretic, Solvent</i>; purifies + the Blood: The Buds, and very tender <i>Cimae</i>, a little bruiſed, + are by ſome eaten raw, by others boil'd, eſpecially in <i>Spring-Pottage</i>, + with other Herbs. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page31" name="page31"></a>[31]</span> + </p> + <p> + 42. Onion, <i>Cepa</i>, <i>Porrum</i>; the beſt are ſuch as are + brought us out of <i>Spain</i>, whence they of St. <i>Omers</i> had them, + and ſome that have weigh'd eight Pounds. Chooſe therefore the + large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. Being eaten crude and alone with <i>Oyl</i>, + <i>Vinegar</i>, and <i>Pepper</i>, we own them in <i>Sallet</i>, not + ſo hot as <i>Garlick</i>, nor at all ſo rank: Boil'd, they give + a kindly reliſh; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, + and profit the <i>Aſthmatical</i>: But eaten in exceſs, are + ſaid to offend the Head and Eyes, unleſs <i>Edulcorated</i> with + a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the + Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour riſing from the raw Onion, + when peeled, which ſome commend for its purging and quickning that + Senſe. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. + concerns the Kitchin. In our cold <i>Sallet</i> we ſupply them with + the <i>Porrum Sectile</i>, Tops of <i>Leeks</i>, and <i>Eſchalots</i> + (<i>Aſcalonia</i>) of guſt more exalted, yet not to the degree + of <i>Garlick</i>. Or (by what of later uſe is much preferr'd) with a + <i>Seed</i> or two of <i>Raccombo</i>, of a yet milder and delicate + nature, which by rubbing the Diſh only, imparts its Vertue agreeably + enough. In <i>Italy</i> they frequently make a <i>Sallet</i> of <i>Scalions</i>, + <i>Cives</i>, and <i>Chibbols</i> only ſeaſon'd with <i>Oyl</i> + and <i>Pepper</i>; <span class="pagenum"><a id="page32" name="page32"></a>[32]</span> + and an honeſt laborious Country-man, with good <i>Bread</i>, <i>Salt</i>, + and a little <i>Parſley</i>, will make a contented Meal with a roaſted + <i>Onion</i>. How this noble <i>Bulb</i> was deified in <a href="#note-37" + name="noteref-37" class="noteref" id="noteref-37"><sup>37</sup></a><i>Egypt</i> + we are told, and that whilſt they were building the <i>Pyramids</i>, + there was ſpent in this Root <a href="#note-38" name="noteref-38" + class="noteref" id="noteref-38"><sup>38</sup></a><i>Ninety Tun</i> of <i>Gold</i> + among the Workmen. So luſhious and tempting it ſeems they were, + that as whole Nations have ſubſiſted on them alone; ſo + the <i>Iſraelites</i> were ready to return to <i>Slavery</i> and <i>Brick-making</i> + for the love of them. Indeed <i>Hecamedes</i> we find preſents them + to <i>Patroclus</i>, in <i>Homer</i>, as a <i>Regalo</i>; But certainly we + are either miſtaken in the <i>Species</i> (which ſome will have + to be <i>Melons</i>) or uſe <i>Poetick</i> Licence, when we ſo + highly magnify them. + </p> + <p> + 43. Orach, <i>Atriplex</i>: Is cooling, allays the <i>Pituit</i> Humor: + Being ſet over the Fire, neither <i>this</i>, nor <i>Lettuce</i>, + needs any other Water than their own moiſture to boil them in, + without Expreſſion: The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other + cold <i>Salleting</i>; but 'tis better in Pottage. See <i>Blitum</i>. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page33" name="page33"></a>[33]</span> + </p> + <p> + 44. Orange, <i>Arantiæ</i> (<i>Malum aureum</i>) Moderately dry, + cooling, and inciſive; ſharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreſhes + and reſists Putrefaction: We ſpeak of the <i>Sub acid</i>; the + ſweet and bitter <i>Orange</i> being of no uſe in our <i>Sallet</i>. + The <i>Limon</i> is ſomewhat more acute, cooling and extinguiſhing + Thirſt; of all the <span class="Greek" title="Oxubapha"> Οξυβαφα</span> + <!-- [Greek: Oxubapha] --> the best <i>ſuccedaneum</i> to <i>Vinegar</i>. + The very Spoils and Rinds of <i>Orange</i> and <i>Limon</i> being ſhred + and ſprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they + are the tender <i>Seedlings</i> from the <i>Hot-Bed</i>, which impart an + <i>Aromatic</i> exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. <i>Vide</i> Limon. + </p> + <p> + 45. Parſnep, <i>Paſtinaca</i>, Carrot: firſt boil'd, being + cold, is of it ſelf a Winter-<i>Sallet</i>, eaten with <i>Oyl</i>, <i>Vinegar</i>, + &c. and having ſomething of Spicy, is by ſome, thought more + nouriſhing than the <i>Turnep</i>. + </p> + <p> + 46. Peaſe, <i>Piſum</i>: the Pod of the <i>Sugar-Peaſe</i>, + when firſt beginning to appear, with the <i>Husk</i> and <i>Tendrels</i>, + affording a pretty <i>Acid</i>, enter into the Compoſition, as do thoſe + of <i>Hops</i> and the <i>Vine</i>. + </p> + <p> + 47. Peper, <i>Piper</i>, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd Vertue + against all flatulency <span class="pagenum"><a id="page34" name="page34"></a>[34]</span> + proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Conſtitutions, and generally all + Crudities whatſoever; and therefore for being of univerſal uſe + to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and ſuch as abound in moiſture; + It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our <i>Sallets</i>; provided it + be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almoſt + impalpable Duſt, which is very pernicious and frequently adheres and + ſticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, inſtead of promoting + Concoction, it often cauſes a <i>Cardialgium</i>, and fires the + Blood: It ſhould therefore be groſly contus'd only. + </p> + <p> + <i>Indian Capſicum</i>, ſuperlatively hot and burning, is yet by + the <i>Africans</i> eaten with <i>Salt</i> and <i>Vinegar</i> by it ſelf, + as an uſual Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous conſequence + with us; being ſo much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting + quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithſtanding render'd not + only ſafe, but very agreeable in our <i>Sallet</i>. + </p> + <p> + Take the <i>Pods</i>, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become + ſufficiently hard, cut them into ſmall pieces, and ſtamp + 'em in a Mortar to duſt: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of <i>Wheat-flour</i>, + fermented with a little <i>Levain</i>: Kneed and make them into Cakes or + Loaves cut long-wiſe, in ſhape of <i>Naples-Biſcuit</i>. + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page35" name="page35"></a>[35]</span> Theſe + Re-bake a ſecond time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as + before, and ferce it through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seaſoning, + inſtead of vulgar <i>Peper</i>. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be + ſure to make the Mortar very clean, after having beaten <i>Indian Capſicum</i>, + before you ſtamp any thing in it elſe. The green Husks, or firſt + peeping Buds of the <i>Walnut-Tree</i>, dry'd to Powder, ſerve for <i>Peper</i> + in ſome places, and ſo do <i>Myrtle-berries</i>. + </p> + <p> + 48. Perſley, <i>Petroſelinum</i>, or <i>Apium hortenſe</i>; + being hot and dry, opens Obſtructions, is very <i>Diuretic</i>, yet + nouriſhing, <i>edulcorated</i> in ſhifted warm Water (the Roots + eſpecially) but of leſs Vertue than <i>Alexanders</i>; nor + ſo convenient in our crude <i>Sallet</i>, as when decocted on a + Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted; + tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at all, as ſacred + to <i>Oblivium</i> and the <i>Defunct</i>. In the mean time, there being + nothing more proper for Stuffing, (<i>Farces</i>) and other <i>Sauces</i>, + we conſign it to the <i>Olitories</i>. <i>Note</i>, that Perſley + is not ſo hurtful to the Eyes as is reported. See <i>Sellery</i>. + </p> + <p> + 49. Pimpernel, <i>Pimpinella</i>; eaten by the <i>French</i> and <i>Italians</i>, + is our common <i>Burnet</i>; of <span class="pagenum"><a id="page36" + name="page36"></a>[36]</span> ſo chearing and exhilarating a quality, + and ſo generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all <i>Sallets</i>) + 'tis paſs'd into a Proverb: + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <i>L'Inſalata non è buon, ne bella</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Ove non è la Pimpinella</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + But a freſh ſprig in <i>Wine</i>, recommends it to us as its moſt + genuine Element. + </p> + <p> + 50. Purslain, <i>Portulaca</i>; eſpecially the <i>Golden</i> whilſt + tender, next the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moiſt + and cooling, quickens Appetite, aſſwages Thirſt, and is + very profitable for hot and <i>Bilious</i> Tempers, as well as <i>Sanguine</i>, + and generally entertain'd in all our <i>Sallets</i>, mingled with the + hotter Herbs: Tis likewiſe familiarly eaten alone with <i>Oyl</i> and + <i>Vinegar</i>; but with moderation, as having been ſometimes found + to corrupt in the Stomach, which being <i>Pickl'd</i> 'tis not ſo apt + to do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil'd, which Dr. <i>Muffet</i> + would have in <i>Wine</i>, for Nouriſhment. + </p> + <p> + The Shrub <i>Halimus</i>, is a ſort of <i>Sea-Purſlain</i>: The + newly peeping Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleaſant <i>Acidule</i>, + even during winter, if it prove not too ſevere. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page37" name="page37"></a>[37]</span> <i>Purſlain</i> + is accus'd for being hurtful to the <i>Teeth</i>, if too much eaten. + </p> + <p> + 51. Radiſh, <i>Raphanus</i>. Albeit rather Medicinal, than ſo + commendably accompanying our <i>Sallets</i> (wherein they often ſlice + the larger Roots) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and + Roots; raiſed on the <a href="#note-39" name="noteref-39" + class="noteref" id="noteref-39"><sup>39</sup></a>Monthly <i>Hot-Bed</i>, + almoſt the whole Year round, affording a very grateful mordacity, and + ſufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: The bigger Roots (ſo + much desir'd) ſhould be ſuch as being tranſparent, eat + ſhort and quick, without ſtringineſs, and not too biting. + Theſe are eaten alone with <i>Salt</i> only, as carrying their <i>Peper</i> + in them; and were indeed by <i>Dioſcorides</i> and <i>Pliny</i> + celebrated above all Roots whatſoever; inſomuch as in the <i>Delphic</i> + Temple, there was <i>Raphanus ex auro dicatus</i>, a Radish of ſolid + Gold; and 'tis ſaid of <i>Moſchius</i>, that he wrote a whole + Volume in their praiſe. Notwithſtanding all which, I am ſure, + the great <a href="#note-40" name="noteref-40" class="noteref" + id="noteref-40"><sup>40</sup></a><i>Hippocrates</i> utterly condemns them, + as <i>Vitioſoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles</i>. And the <i>Naturaliſt</i> + calls it <i>Cibus Illiberalis</i>, fitter for <i>Ruſtics</i> than <i>Gentlemens</i> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page38" name="page38"></a>[38]</span> Tables. + And indeed (beſides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, + that as the Prince of <i>Phyſicians</i> writes, It is hard of Digeſtion, + <i>Inimicous</i> to the Stomach, cauſing nauſeous Eructations, + and ſometimes Vomiting, tho' otherwiſe <i>Diuretic</i>, and + thought to repel the Vapours of <i>Wine</i>, when the <i>Wits</i> were at + their genial <i>Club</i>. <i>Dioſcorides</i> and <a href="#note-41" + name="noteref-41" class="noteref" id="noteref-41"><sup>41</sup></a><i>Galen</i> + differ about their Eating; One preſcribes it before Meals, the latter + for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them more + <i>Nouriſhing</i>. + </p> + <p> + There is a <i>Raphanus ruſticanus</i>, the <i>Spaniſh</i> black + <i>Horſe Radish</i>, of a hotter quality, and not ſo friendly to + the Head; but a notable <i>Antiſcorbutic</i>, which may be eaten all + the Winter, and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Compoſition + of <i>Muſtard</i>; as are alſo the thin Shavings, mingled with + our cold Herbs. And now before I have done with this Root, for an + excellent and univerſal <i>Condiment</i>. Take <i>Horſe-Radiſh</i>, + whilſt newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwiſe laid to ſteep + in Water a competent time; then <i>grate</i> it on a <i>Grater</i> which + has no bottom, that ſo it may paſs thro', like a Mucilage, into + a Diſh of Earthen Ware: This <span class="pagenum"><a id="page39" + name="page39"></a>[39]</span> temper'd with <i>Vinegar</i>, in which a + little <i>Sugar</i> has been diſſolv'd, you have a <i>Sauce</i> + ſupplying <i>Muſtard</i> to the <i>Sallet</i>, and ſerving + likewiſe for any Diſh beſides. + </p> + <p> + 52. Rampion, <i>Rapunculus</i>, or the <i>Eſculent Campanula</i>: The + tender Roots eaten in the Spring, like thoſe of <i>Radiſhes</i>, + but much more Nouriſhing. + </p> + <p> + 53. Rocket, <i>Eruca Spaniſh</i>; hot and dry, to be qualified with + <i>Lettuce</i>, <i>Purcelain</i>, and the reſt, &c. See <i>Tarragon</i>. + </p> + <p> + Roccombo. See <i>Onions</i>. + </p> + <p> + 54. Roſemary, <i>Roſmarinus</i>; Soverainly <i>Cephalic</i>, and + for the <i>Memory</i>, <i>Sight</i>, and <i>Nerves</i>, incomparable: And + tho' not us'd in the Leaf with our <i>Sallet</i> furniture, yet the <i>Flowers</i>, + a little bitter, are always welcome in <i>Vinegar</i>; but above all, a + freſh Sprig or two in a Glaſs of <i>Wine</i>. See <i>Flowers</i>. + </p> + <p> + 55. Sage, <i>Salvia</i>; hot and dry. The tops of the <i>Red</i>, well + pick'd and waſh'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almoſt + imperceptible <i>Inſects</i>) with the <i>Flowers</i>, retain all + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page40" name="page40"></a>[40]</span> the + noble Properties of the other hot Plants; more eſpecially for the <i>Head</i>, + <i>Memory</i>, <i>Eyes</i>, and all <i>Paralytical</i> Affections. In + ſhort, 'tis a Plant endu'd with ſo many and wonderful + Properties, as that the aſſiduous uſe of it is ſaid to + render Men <i>Immortal</i>: We cannot therefore but allow the tender <i>Summities</i> + of the young Leaves; but principally the <i>Flowers</i> in our cold <i>Sallet</i>; + yet ſo as not to domineer. + </p> + <p> + Salſifax, <i>Scorzonera</i>. See <i>Vipergraſs</i>. + </p> + <p> + 56. Sampier, <i>Crithmum</i>: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about <i>Dover</i>, + &c.) not only <i>Pickl'd</i>, but crude and cold, when young and + tender (and ſuch as we may Cultivate, and have in our <i>Kitchin-Gardens</i>, + almoſt the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its <i>Aromatic</i>, and + other excellent Vertues and Effects againſt the <i>Spleen</i>, Cleanſing + the Paſſages, ſharpning Appetite, &c. ſo far + preferrable to moſt of our hotter Herbs, and <i>Sallet</i>-Ingredients, + that I have long wonder'd, it has not been long ſince propagated in + the <i>Potagere</i>, as it is in <i>France</i>; from whence I have often + receiv'd the Seeds, which have proſper'd better, and more kindly with + me, than what comes from our own Coaſts: It does not indeed <i>Pickle</i> + ſo well, as <span class="pagenum"><a id="page41" name="page41"></a>[41]</span> + being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all other reſpects for + compoſing <i>Sallets</i>, it has nothing like it. + </p> + <p> + 57. Scalions, <i>Aſcalonia</i>, <i>Cepæ</i>; The <i>French</i> + call them <i>Appetites</i>, which it notably quickens and ſtirs up: + Corrects Crudities, and promotes Concoction. The <i>Italians</i> ſteep + them in Water, mince, and eat them cold with <i>Oyl</i>, <i>Vinegar</i>, + <i>Salt</i>, &c. + </p> + <p> + 58. Scurvy-graſs, <i>Cochlearia</i>, of the Garden, but eſpecially + that of the Sea, is ſharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like <i>Naſturtium</i>, + prevalent in the <i>Scorbute</i>. A few of the tender Leaves may be + admitted in our Compoſition. See <i>Naſturtium Indicum</i>. + </p> + <p> + 59. Sellery, <i>Apium Italicum</i>, (and of the <i>Petroſeline</i> + Family) was formerly a ſtranger with us (nor very long ſince in + <i>Italy</i>) is an hot and more generous ſort of <i>Macedonian Perſley</i>, + or <i>Smallage</i>. The tender Leaves of the <i>Blancht</i> Stalk do well + in our <i>Sallet</i>, as likewiſe the ſlices of the whiten'd + Stems, which being crimp and ſhort, firſt peel'd and ſlit + long wiſe, are eaten with <i>Oyl</i>, <i>Vinegar</i>, <i>Salt</i>, + and <i>Peper</i>; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd in + the <span class="pagenum"><a id="page42" name="page42"></a>[42]</span> + middle of the <i>Grand Sallet</i>, at our Great Mens Tables, and <i>Prætors</i> + Feaſts, as the Grace of the whole Board. <i>Caution</i> is to be + given of a ſmall red <i>Worm</i>, often lurking in theſe Stalks, + as does the green in <i>Fennil</i>. + </p> + <p> + Shallots. See <i>Onion</i>. + </p> + <p> + 60. Skirrets, <i>Siſarum</i>; hot and moiſt, corroborating, and + good for the Stomach, exceedingly nouriſhing, wholſome and + delicate; of all the <i>Root-kind</i>, not ſubject to be Windy, and + ſo valued by the Emperor <i>Tiberius</i>, that he accepted them for + Tribute. + </p> + <p> + This excellent Root is ſeldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, ſtew'd, + roaſted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, ſliced, or in + pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were + heretofore ſomething bitter; See what Culture and Education effects! + </p> + <p> + 61. Sorrel, <i>Acetoſa</i>: of which there are divers kinds. The <i>French + Acetocella</i>, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the <i>North</i> + of <i>England</i>; <i>Roman Oxalis</i>; the broad <i>German</i>, &c. + but the beſt is of <i>Green-Land:</i> by nature cold, Abſterſive, + Acid, ſharpning Appetite, aſſwages Heat, cools the Liver, + ſtrengthens the Heart; <span class="pagenum"><a id="page43" + name="page43"></a>[43]</span> is an <i>Antiſcorbutic</i>, reſiſting + Putrefaction, and imparting ſo grateful a quickneſs to the reſt, + as ſupplies the want of <i>Orange</i>, <i>Limon</i>, and other <i>Omphacia</i>, + and therefore never to be excluded. Vide <i>Wood-Sorrel</i>. + </p> + <p> + 62. Sow-thiſtle, <i>Sonchus</i>; of the <i>Intybus</i>-kind. <i>Galen</i> + was us'd to eat it as <i>Lettuce</i>; exceedingly welcome to the late <i>Morocco</i>. + Ambaſſador and his Retinue. + </p> + <p> + 63. Sparagus, <i>Aſparagus</i> (<i>ab Aſperitate</i>) + temperately hot, and moiſt; <i>Cordial</i>, <i>Diuretic</i>, eaſie + of Digeſtion, and next to <i>Fleſh</i>, nothing more nourishing, + as <i>Sim. Sethius</i>, an excellent Phyſician holds. They are ſometimes, + but very ſeldom, eaten raw with <i>Oyl</i>, and <i>Vinegar</i>; but + with more delicacy (the bitterneſs firſt exhauſted) being + ſo ſpeedily boil'd, as not to loſe the <i>verdure</i> and + agreeable tenderneſs; which is done by letting the Water boil, before + you put them in. I do not eſteem the <i>Dutch</i> great and larger + ſort (eſpecially rais'd by the rankneſs of the Beds) ſo + ſweet and agreeable, as thoſe of a moderate ſize. + </p> + <p> + 64. Spinach, <i>Spinachia</i>: of old not us'd in <i>Sallets</i>, and the + oftner kept out the better; I <span class="pagenum"><a id="page44" + name="page44"></a>[44]</span> ſpeak of the <i>crude</i>: But being + boil'd to a <i>Pult</i>, and without other Water than its own moiſture, + is a moſt excellent Condiment with <i>Butter</i>, <i>Vinegar</i>, or + <i>Limon</i>, for almoſt all ſorts of boil'd Fleſh, and may + accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis <i>Laxative</i> and <i>Emollient</i>, + and therefore profitable for the Aged, and (tho' by original a <i>Spaniard</i>) + may be had at almoſt any Season, and in all places. + </p> + <p> + Stone-Crop, <i>Sedum Minus</i>. See <i>Trick-Madame</i>. + </p> + <p> + 65. Succory, <i>Cichorium</i>, an <i>Intube</i>; erratic and wild, with a + narrow dark Leaf, different from the <i>Sative</i>, tho' probably by + culture only; and for being very bitter, a little <i>edulcorated</i> with + <i>Sugar</i> and <i>Vinegar</i>, is by ſome eaten in the Summer, and + more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See <i>Endive</i>. + </p> + <p> + 66. Tansy, <i>Tanacetum</i>; hot and cleanſing; but in regard of its + domineering reliſh, ſparingly mixt with our cold <i>Sallet</i>, + and much fitter (tho' in very ſmall quantity) for the Pan, being + qualified with the Juices of other freſh Herbs, <i>Spinach</i>, <i>Green + Corn</i>, <i>Violet</i>, <i>Primrose-Leaves</i>, &c. at entrance of + the Spring, and then <span class="pagenum"><a id="page45" name="page45"></a>[45]</span> + fried browniſh, is eaten hot with the Juice of <i>Orange</i> and <i>Sugar</i>, + as one of the moſt agreeable of all the boil'd <i>Herbaceous</i> Diſhes. + </p> + <p> + 67. Tarragon, <i>Draco Herba</i>, of <i>Spaniſh</i> Extraction; hot + and ſpicy: The Tops and young Shoots, like thoſe of <i>Rochet</i>, + never to be ſecluded our Compoſition, eſpecially where + there is much <i>Lettuce</i>. 'Tis highly cordial and friendly to the + Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakneſs of the Ventricle, <i>&c.</i> + </p> + <p> + 68. Thiſtle, <i>Carduus Mariæ</i>; our Lady's milky or dappl'd + Thiſtle, diſarm'd of its Prickles, is worth eſteem: The + young Stalk about <i>May</i>, being peel'd and ſoak'd in Water, to + extract the bitterneſs, boil'd or raw, is a very wholſome <i>Sallet</i>, + eaten with <i>Oyl</i>, <i>Salt</i>, and <i>Peper</i>; ſome eat them + ſodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the <i>Artichoak</i>; + but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, ſome preferr; both Nouriſhing + and Reſtorative. + </p> + <p> + 69. Trick-Madame, <i>Sedum minus</i>, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moiſt, + grateful to the Stomach. The <i>Cimata</i> and Tops, when young and + tender, dreſs'd as <i>Purſelane</i>, is a frequent Ingredient in + our cold <i>Sallet</i>. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page46" name="page46"></a>[46]</span> + </p> + <p> + 70. Turnep, <i>Rapum</i>; moderately hot and moiſt: <i>Napus</i>; the + long <i>Navet</i> is certainly the moſt delicate of them, and best + Nouriſhing. <i>Pliny</i> ſpeaks of no fewer than ſix ſorts, + and of ſeveral Colours; ſome of which were ſuspected to be + artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is preferr'd; by others the + red <i>Bohemian</i>. But of whatever kind, being ſown upon the <i>Hot-bed</i>, + and no bigger than ſeedling <i>Radiſh</i>, they do excellently + in Compoſition; as do alſo the Stalks of the common <i>Turnep</i>, + when firſt beginning to Bud. + </p> + <p> + And here ſhould not be forgotten, that wholſome, as well as + agreeable ſort of <i>Bread</i>, we are <a href="#note-42" + name="noteref-42" class="noteref" id="noteref-42"><sup>42</sup></a>taught + to make; and of which we have eaten at the greateſt Perſons + Tables, hardly to be distinguiſh'd from the beſt of <i>Wheat</i>. + </p> + <p> + Let the <i>Turneps</i> firſt be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till + ſoft and tender; then ſtrongly preſſing out the Juice, + mix them together, and when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their + weight of Wheat-Meal, ſeaſon it as you do other <i>Bread</i>, + and knead it up; then letting the Dough remain a little to <i>ferment</i>, + faſhion the Paſte into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page47" name="page47"></a>[47]</span> Some + roaſt <i>Turneps</i> in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with + <i>Sugar</i> and <i>Butter</i>. + </p> + <p> + 71. Vine, <i>Vitis</i>, the <i>Capreols</i>, <i>Tendrels</i>, and <i>Claſpers</i> + (like thoſe of the <i>Hop</i>, &c.) whilſt very young, have + an agreeable <i>Acid</i>, which may be eaten alone, or with other <i>Sallet</i>. + </p> + <p> + 72. Viper-graſs, <i>Tragopogon</i>, <i>Scorzonera</i>, <i>Salſifex</i>, + &c. tho' Medicinal, and excellent againſt the <i>Palpitation of + the Heart</i>, <i>Faintings</i>, <i>Obſtruction of the Bowels</i>, + &c. are beſides a very ſweet and pleaſant <i>Sallet</i>; + being laid to ſoak out the bitterneſs, then peel'd, may be eaten + raw, or <i>Condited</i>; but beſt of all ſtew'd with <i>Marrow</i>, + <i>Spice</i>, <i>Wine</i>, &c. as <i>Artichoak</i>, <i>Skirrets</i>, + &c. ſliced or whole. They likewiſe may bake, fry, or boil + them; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing. + </p> + <p> + 73. Wood-Sorrel, <i>Trifolium acetoſum</i>, or <i>Alleluja</i>, of + the nature of other <i>Sorrels</i>. + </p> + <p> + To all which might we add ſundry more, formerly had in <i>deliciis</i>, + ſince grown <i>obſolete</i> or quite neglected with us: As among + the nobleſt <i>Bulbs</i>, that of the <i>Tulip</i>; a Root of which + has been valued not to eat, but for the <i>Flower</i> (and yet eaten by miſtake) + at more than an hundred <span class="pagenum"><a id="page48" name="page48"></a>[48]</span> + Pounds. The young freſh <i>Bulbs</i> are ſweet and high of taſte. + The <i>Aſphodil</i> or <i>Daffodil</i>; a <i>Sallet</i> ſo rare + in <i>Heſiod's</i> Days, that <i>Lobel</i> thinks it the <i>Parſnep</i>, + tho' not at all like it; however it was (with the <i>Mallow</i>) taken + anciently for any <i>Edule</i>-Root. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Ornithogalons</i> roaſted, as they do <i>Cheſtnuts</i>, + are eaten by the <i>Italians</i>, the wild yellow eſpecially, with <i>Oyl</i>, + <i>Vinegar</i>, and <i>Peper</i>. And ſo the ſmall <i>tuberous</i> + Roots of <i>Gramen Amygdaloſum</i>; which they alſo roaſt, + and make an <i>Emulſion</i> of, to uſe in Broaths as a great Reſtorative. + The <i>Oxylapathum</i>, us'd of old; in the time of <i>Galen</i> was eaten + frequently. As alſo <i>Dracontium</i>, with the Mordicant <i>Arum + Theophraſti</i>, which <i>Dodonæus</i> teaches how to Dreſs. + Nay, divers of the <i>Satyrions</i>, which ſome condited with <i>Sugar</i>, + others boil'd in Milk for a great Nouriſher, now diſcarded. But + what think we of the <i>Cicuta</i>, which there are who reckon among <i>Sallet</i> + Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous + in ours. To these add the <i>Viola Matronalis</i>, <i>Radix Lunaria</i>, + &c. nay, the <i>Green Poppy</i>, by most accounted among the deadly + Poyſons: How cautious then ought our <i>Sallet</i>-Gatherers to be, + in reading ancient Authors; leſt they happen to be impos'd on, where + they treat of <span class="pagenum"><a id="page49" name="page49"></a>[49]</span> + Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other + Nations and People of more robuſt and ſtrong conſtitutions? + beſsides the hazard of being miſtaken in the Names of divers <i>Simples</i>, + not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in <i>Botany</i>. + </p> + <p> + There are beſsides ſeveral remaining, which tho' <i>Abdicated</i> + here with us, find Entertainment ſtill in Foreign Countries: As the + large <i>Heliotrope</i> and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and + ſhew its golden Face) which being dreſs'd as the <i>Artichoak</i>, + is eaten for a dainty. This I add as a new Diſcovery. I once made <i>Macaroons</i> + with the ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the <i>Turpentine</i> did ſo + domineer over all, that it did not anſwer expectation. The <i>Radix + Perſonata</i> mounting with their young Heads, <i>Lyſimachia + ſiliquoſa glabra minor</i>, when freſh and tender, begins + to come into the <i>Sallet</i>-Tribe. The pale whiter <i>Popy</i>, is + eaten by the <i>Genoueſe</i>. By the <i>Spaniards</i>, the tops of <i>Wormwood</i> + with <i>Oyl</i> alone, and without ſo much as <i>Bread</i>; + profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offenſive to the Head; As is alſo + <i>Coriander</i> and <i>Rue</i>, which <i>Galen</i> was accuſtom'd to + eat raw, and by it ſelf, with <i>Oyl</i> and <i>Salt</i>, as + exceedingly grateful, as well as wholſome, and of great vertue againſt + Infection. <i>Pliny</i>, I remember, reports it to be <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page50" name="page50"></a>[50]</span> of ſuch effect for the Preſervation + of <i>Sight</i>; that the <i>Painters</i> of his Time, us'd to devour a + great quantity of it. And it is ſtill by the <i>Italians</i> + frequently mingled among their <i>Sallets</i>. The <i>Lapatha Perſonata</i> + (common <i>Burdock</i>) comes now and then to the beſt Tables, about + <i>April</i>, and when young, before the <i>Burrs</i> and <i>Clots</i> + appear, being ſtrip'd, and the bitterneſs ſoaked out, + treated as the <i>Chardoon</i>, is eaten in <i>Poiverade</i>; Some alſo + boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but theſe may ſuffice; + ſince as we find ſome are left off, and gone out, ſo others + be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater Plenty and + Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The <i>Cucumber</i> it + ſelf, now ſo univerſally eaten, being accounted little + better than <i>Poyſon</i>, even within our Memory, as already noted. + </p> + <p> + To conclude, and after all that has been ſaid of Plants and <i>Salleting</i>, + formerly in great eſteem, (but ſince obſolete and quite + rejected); What if the exalted Juice of the ancient <i>Silphium</i> ſhould + come in, and challenge the Precedency? It is a <a href="#note-43" + name="noteref-43" class="noteref" id="noteref-43"><sup>43</sup></a>Plant + formerly ſo highly priz'd, and rare for the richneſs of its Taſte + and other <span class="pagenum"><a id="page51" name="page51"></a>[51]</span> + Vertues; that as it was dedicated to <i>Apollo</i>, and hung up in his + Temple at <i>Delphi</i>; So we read of one ſingle Root brought to the + Emperor <i>Nero</i> for an extraordinary Preſent; and the Drug ſo + eſteem'd, that the <i>Romans</i> had long before amaſs'd a + quantity of it, and kept it in the Treaſury, till <i>Julius Cæſar</i> + rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In a word, it + was of that Account; that as a ſacred Plant, thoſe of the <i>Cyrenaic + Africa</i>, honour'd the very Figure of it, by ſtamping it on the + Reverſe of their <a href="#note-44" name="noteref-44" class="noteref" + id="noteref-44"><sup>44</sup></a>Coin; and when they would commend a thing + for its worth to the Skies, <span class="Greek" title="Bat-ou silphion"> + Βατ-ου σιλφιον</span>, + <!-- [Greek: Bat-ou silphion] --> grew into a Proverb: <i>Battus</i> + having been the Founder of the City <i>Cyrene</i>, near which it only + grew. 'Tis indeed conteſted among the Learned <i>Botanoſophiſts</i>, + whether this Plant was not the ſame with <i>Laſerpitium</i>, and + the Laſer it yields, the odoriferous <a href="#note-45" + name="noteref-45" class="noteref" id="noteref-45"><sup>45</sup></a><i>Benzoin</i>? + But doubtleſs had we the true and genuine <i>Silphium</i> (for it + appears to have been often ſophiſticated, and a ſpurious + ſort brought into <i>Italy</i>) it would ſoon recover its <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page52" name="page52"></a>[52]</span> priſtine + Reputation, and that it was not celebrated ſo for nothing + extraordinary; ſince beſsides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a + wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach, a Reſtorer of loſt + Appetite, and Maſculine Vigour, <i>&c.</i> and that they made uſe + of it almoſt in every thing they eat. + </p> + <p> + But ſhould we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, + by many, thought to be no other than the <a href="#note-46" + name="noteref-46" class="noteref" id="noteref-46"><sup>46</sup></a><i>Faetid + Aſſa</i> our nicer <i>Sallet-Eaters</i> (who yet beſtow as + odious an Epithet on the vulgar <i>Garlick</i>) would cry out upon it as + intolerable, and perhaps hardly believe it: But as <i>Ariſtophanes</i> + has brought it in, and ſufficiently deſcrib'd it; ſo the <i>Scholiaſt</i> + upon the place, puts it out of Controverſy: And that they made uſe + both of the <i>Leaves</i>, <i>Stalk</i>, (and <i>Extract</i> eſpecially) + as we now do <i>Garlick</i>, and other <i>Hautgouts</i> as nauſeous + altogether. In the mean time, <i>Garcius</i>, <i>Bontius</i>, and others, + aſſure us, that the <i>Indians</i> at this day univerſally + ſauce their Viands with it; and the <i>Bramins</i> (who eat no Fleſh + at all) inrich their <span class="pagenum"><a id="page53" name="page53"></a>[53]</span> + <i>Sallets</i>, by constantly rubbing the Diſhes with it. Nor are + ſome of our own ſkilful <i>Cooks</i> Ingnorant, how to condite + and uſe it, with the Applauſe of thoſe, who, ignorant of + the Secret, have admir'd the richneſs of the Guſt it has + imparted, when it has been ſubſtituted inſtead of all our + <i>Cipollati</i>, and other ſeaſonings of that Nature. + </p> + <p> + And thus have we done with the various <i>Species</i> of all ſuch <i>Eſculents</i> + as may properly enter the Compoſition of our <i>Acetaria</i>, and + cold <i>Sallet</i>. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, + Degrees, and <i>primary Qualities</i>, which <i>Intend</i> or <i>Remit</i>, + as to the Scale of <i>Heat</i>, <i>Cold</i>, <i>Drineſs</i>, <i>Moiſture</i>, + &c. (which is to be underſtood according to the different Texture + of their <i>component Particles</i>) it has not been without what I + thought neceſſary for the Inſtruction of the <i>Gatherer</i>, + and <i>Sallet-Dreſſer</i>; how he ought to chooſe, ſort, + and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together. + </p> + <p> + What Care and Circumſpection ſhould attend the choice and + collection of <i>Sallet</i> Herbs, has been partly ſhew'd. I can + therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of ſome, + who tell us, that a <i>Fool</i> is as fit to be the <i>Gatherer</i> of a + <i>Sallet</i> as a <i>Wiſer</i> Man. Becauſe, ſay they, one + can hardly chooſe amiſs, provided <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page54" name="page54"></a>[54]</span> the Plants be green, young, and + tender, where-ever they meet with them: But ſad experience ſhews, + how many fatal Miſtakes have been committed by thoſe who took + the deadly <i>Cicutæ</i>, <i>Hemlocks</i>, <i>Aconits</i>, &c. + for Garden <i>Perſley</i>, and <i>Parſneps</i>; the <i>Myrrhis + Sylveſtris</i>, or <i>Cow-Weed</i>, for <i>Chaerophilum</i>, (<i>Chervil</i>) + <i>Thapſia</i> for <i>Fennel</i>; the wild <i>Chondrilla</i> for <i>Succory</i>; + <i>Dogs-Mercury</i> inſtead of <i>Spinach</i>: <i>Papaver + Corniculatum Luteum</i>, and horn'd <i>Poppy</i> for <i>Eringo</i>; <i>Oenanthe + aquatica</i> for the <i>Paluſtral Apium</i>, and a world more, whoſe + dire effects have been many times ſudden Death, and the cause of + Mortal Accidents to thoſe who have eaten of them unwittingly: But + ſuppoſing ſome of thoſe wild and unknown Plants ſhould + not prove ſo <i>deleterious</i> and <a href="#note-47" + name="noteref-47" class="noteref" id="noteref-47"><sup>47</sup></a>unwholſome; + yet may others of them annoy the <i>Head</i>, <i>Brain</i>, and <i>Genus + Nervoſum</i>, weaken the <i>Eyes</i>, offend the <i>Stomach</i>, + affect the <i>Liver</i>, torment the <i>Bowels</i>, and diſcover + their malignity in dangerous and dreadful <i>Symptoms</i>. And therefore + ſuch <i>Plants</i> as are rather <i>Medicinal</i> than <i>Nouriſhing</i> + and <i>Refreſhing</i>, are ſtudiouſly to be rejected. So + highly neceſſary it is, that what we ſometimes find in <i>old + Books</i> concerning <i>Edules</i> of other <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page55" name="page55"></a>[55]</span> Countries and Climates + (frequently call'd by the Names of ſuch as are wholſome in ours, + and among us) miſlead not the unskilful Gatherer; to prevent which we + read of divers <i>Popes</i> and <i>Emperors</i>, that had ſometimes + Learned <i>Phyſicians</i> for their <i>Maſter-Cooks</i>. I + cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. + <i>Ray</i> <a href="#note-48" name="noteref-48" class="noteref" + id="noteref-48"><sup>48</sup></a>(<i>Tranſact. Num.</i> 238.) who + thinks it the Intereſt of Mankind, that all Perſons ſhould + be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their + Prejudice: Of ſuch, I ſay, with our excellent <a href="#note-49" + name="noteref-49" class="noteref" id="noteref-49"><sup>49</sup></a><i>Poet</i> + (a little chang'd) + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <i>Happy from ſuch conceal'd, if ſtill do lie</i>, + </p> + <p> + <i>Of Roots and Herbs the</i> unwholſome <i>Luxury</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + The Illuſtrious and Learned <i>Columna</i> has, by obſerving + what <a href="#note-50" name="noteref-50" class="noteref" id="noteref-50"><sup>50</sup></a><i>Inſects</i> + did uſually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants. + But I ſhould not ſo readily adventure upon it on that account, + as to its wholſomneſs: For tho' indeed one may ſafely eat + of a <i>Peach</i> or <span class="pagenum"><a id="page56" name="page56"></a>[56]</span> + <i>Abricot</i>, after a <i>Snail</i> has been Taſter, I queſtion + whether it might be ſo of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by + other <i>Inſects</i>: Nor would one conclude, the <i>Hyoſcyamus</i> + harmleſs, because the <i>Cimex</i> feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. + <i>Lyſter</i> has diſcover'd. Notice ſhould therefore be + taken what <i>Eggs</i> of <i>Inſects</i> are found adhering to the + Leaves of <i>Sallet-Herbs</i>, and frequently cleave ſo firmly to + them, as not eaſily to be waſh'd off, and ſo not being + taken notice of, paſſing for accidental and harmleſs Spots + only, may yet produce very ill effects. + </p> + <p> + <i>Grillus</i>, who according to the Doctrine of <i>Tranſmigration</i> + (as <i>Plutarch</i> tells us) had, in his turn, been a <i>Beaſt</i>; + diſcourſes how much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was + turn'd to <i>Man</i> again, as knowing then, what Plants were beſt + and moſt proper for him: Whilſt Men, <i>Sarcophagiſts</i> + (Fleſh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to ſeek. And 'tis + indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other <span class="Greek" + title="panphaga"> πανφαγα</span>, + <!-- [Greek: panphaga] --> and <i>herbaceous</i> Animals which feed on + Plants, are directed by their Smell, and accordingly make election of + their Food: But Men (beſsides the <i>Smell</i> and <i>Taſte</i>) + have, or ſhould have, <i>Reaſon</i>, <i>Experience</i>, and the + Aids of <i>Natural Philoſophy</i> to be their Guides in this Matter. + We have heard <i>of Plants</i>, that (like the <i>Baſilisk</i>) kill + and <span class="pagenum"><a id="page57" name="page57"></a>[57]</span> + infect by <a href="#note-51" name="noteref-51" class="noteref" + id="noteref-51"><sup>51</sup></a>looking on them only; and ſome by + the touch. The truth is, there's need of all the Senſes to determine + <i>Analogically</i> concerning the Vertues and Properties, even of the <i>Leaves</i> + alone of many <i>Edule Plants</i>: The moſt eminent Principles of + near the whole Tribe of <i>Sallet</i> Vegetables, inclining rather to <i>Acid</i> + and <i>Sowre</i> than to any other quality, eſpecially, Salt, Sweet, + or Luſcious. There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir'd, how to + ſuit and mingle our <i>Sallet</i>-Ingredients, ſo as may beſt + agree with the Conſtitution of the (vulgarly reputed) <i>Humors</i> + of thoſe who either ſtand in need of, or affect theſe Refreſhments, + and by ſo adjuſting them, that as nothing ſhould be ſuffer'd + to domineer, ſo ſhould none of them loſe their genuine Guſt, + Savour, or Vertue. To this end, + </p> + <p> + The Cooler, and moderately refreſhing, ſhould be choſen to + extinguiſh Thirſt, attemper the Blood, repreſs Vapours, <i>&c.</i> + </p> + <p> + The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be + qualify'd by the Cold and Moiſt: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the + <i>Sub-acid</i> and gentler Herbs: The <i>Mordicant</i> <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page58" name="page58"></a>[58]</span> and pungent, + and ſuch as repreſs or diſcuſs Flatulency (revive the + Spirits, and aid Concoction;) with ſuch as abate, and take off the + keenneſs, mollify and reconcile the more harſh and churliſh: + The mild and inſipid, animated with <i>piquant</i> and brisk: The Aſtringent + and Binders, with ſuch as are Laxative and Deobſtruct: The over-ſluggish, + raw, and unactive, with thoſe that are Eupeptic, and promote + Concoction: There are <i>Pectorals</i> for the Breaſt and Bowels. Thoſe + of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more or leſs <i>Specific</i>; + and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are deſcrib'd in our foregoing + <i>Catalogue</i>: For notwithſtanding it ſeem in general, that + raw <i>Sallets</i> and <i>Herbs</i> have experimentally been found to be + the most ſoveraign Diet in that <i>Endemial</i> (and indeed with us, + <i>Epidemical</i> and almoſt univerſal) Contagion the <i>Scorbute</i>, + to which we of this Nation, and moſt other <i>Ilanders</i> are + obnoxious; yet, ſince the <i>Naſturtia</i> are ſingly, and + alone as it were, the moſt effectual, and powerful Agents in + conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were enough to give the <i>Sallet-Dreſſer</i> + direction how to chooſe, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as + well as to ſhew what Remedies there are contain'd in our Magazine of + <i>Sallet-Plants</i> upon all Occaſions, rightly <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page59" name="page59"></a>[59]</span> marſhal'd and skilfully + apply'd. So as (with our <a href="#note-52" name="noteref-52" + class="noteref" id="noteref-52"><sup>52</sup></a>ſweet <i>Cowley</i>) + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <i>If thro' the ſtrong and beauteous Fence</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Of Temperance and Innocence,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>And wholſome Labours, and a quiet Mind,</i> + </p> + <p class="i2"> + <i>Diſeaſes paſſage find;</i> + </p> + <p class="i2"> + <i>They muſt not think here to aſſail</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>They muſt fight for it, and diſpute it hard,</i> + </p> + <p class="i2"> + <i>Before they can prevail;</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Scarce any Plant is uſed here,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Which 'gainſt ſome Aile a Weapon does not bear</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + We have ſaid how neceſſary it is, that in the Compoſure + of a <i>Sallet</i>, every Plant ſhould come in to bear its part, + without being over-power'd by ſome Herb of a ſtronger Taſte, + ſo as to endanger the native <i>Sapor</i> and vertue of the reſt; + but fall into their places, like the <i>Notes</i> in <i>Muſic</i>, in + which there ſhould be nothing harſh or grating: And tho' + admitting ſome <i>Diſcords</i> (to diſtinguiſh and + illuſtrate the reſt) ſtriking in the more ſprightly, + and ſometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Diſſonancies, + and melt them into an agreeable Compoſition. Thus the Comical <i>Maſter-Cook</i>, + introduc'd by <i>Damoxenus</i>, <span class="pagenum"><a id="page60" + name="page60"></a>[60]</span> when asked <span class="Greek" + title="pôs esin autois onmphonia"> πως εσις + αυτοις ονμφονια</span>; + <!-- [Greek: pôs esin autois onmphonia] --> <i>What Harmony there + was in Meats</i>? The very ſame (ſays he) that a <i>Diateſſaron</i>, + <i>Diapente</i>, and <i>Diapaſon</i> have one to another in a Conſort + of Muſic: And that there was as great care requir'd, not to mingle <a + href="#note-53" name="noteref-53" class="noteref" id="noteref-53"><sup>53</sup></a><i>Sapores + minime conſentientes</i>, jarring and repugnant Taſtes; looking + upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who ſhould be no better vers'd in + <i>Democritus</i>. The whole Scene is very diverting, as <i>Athenæus</i> + preſents it; and to the ſame ſenſe <i>Macrobius</i>, + <i>Saturn. lib.</i> I. <i>cap.</i> I. In ſhort, the main Skill of the + Artiſt lies in this: + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <i>What choice to chooſe, for delicacy beſt;</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>What Order ſo contriv'd, as not to mix</i> + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page61" name="page61"></a>[61]</span> + </p> + <p> + <i>Taſtes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Taſte after Taſte, upheld by kindlieſt change</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + As our <a href="#note-54" name="noteref-54" class="noteref" id="noteref-54"><sup>54</sup></a><i>Paradiſian + Bard</i> introduces Eve, dreſſing of a <i>Sallet</i> for her <i>Angelical</i> + Gueſt. + </p> + <p> + Thus, by the diſcreet choice and mixture of the <i>Oxoleon</i> (<i>Oyl</i>, + <i>Vinegar</i>, <i>Salt</i>, &c.) the Compoſition is perfect; + ſo as neither the <i>Prodigal</i>, <i>Niggard</i>, nor <i>Inſipid</i>, + ſhould (according to the <i>Italian</i> Rule) preſcribe in my + Opinion; ſince <i>One</i> may be too profuſe, the <i>Other</i> + <a href="#note-55" name="noteref-55" class="noteref" id="noteref-55"><sup>55</sup></a>over-ſaving, + and the <i>Third</i> (like himſelf) give it no Reliſh at all: It + may be too <i>ſharp</i>, if it exceed a grateful <i>Acid</i>; too <i>Inſulſe</i> + and flat, if the Profuſion be extream. From all which it appears, + that a Wiſe-Man is the proper Compoſer of an excellent <i>Sallet</i>, + and how many <i>Tranſcendences</i> belong to an accompliſh'd <i>Sallet-Dreſſer</i>, + ſo as to emerge an exact <i>Critic</i> indeed, He ſhould be + skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various <i>Species</i> of Taſtes, + according to the <i>Scheme</i> ſet us down in the <i>Tables</i> of + the Learned <a href="#note-56" name="noteref-56" class="noteref" + id="noteref-56"><sup>56</sup></a>Dr. <i>Grew</i>, to which I refer the + Curious. + </p> + <p> + 'Tis moreover to be conſider'd, that <i>Edule</i> <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page62" name="page62"></a>[62]</span> Plants are + not in all their Taſtes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made + us to conſiſt of different Parts and Members, both Internal and + External; ſo require they different Juices to nouriſh and ſupply + them: Wherefore the force and activity of ſome Plants lie in the <i>Root</i>; + and even the <i>Leaves</i> of ſome <i>Bitter-Roots</i> are ſweet, + and <i>è contra</i>. Of others, in the <i>Stem</i>, <i>Leaves</i>, + <i>Buds</i>, <i>Flowers</i>, &c. Some exert their Vigour without <i>Decoction</i>; + others being a little preſs'd or contus'd; others again <i>Raw</i>, + and beſt in Conſort; ſome alone, and <i>per ſe</i> + without any <span class="Greek" title="skenasia"> σκενασια</span>, + <!-- [Greek: skenasia] --> Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore + muſt be taken by the <i>Collector</i>, that what he gathers anſwer + to theſe Qualities; and that as near as he can, they conſiſt + (I ſpeak of the <i>cruder Salleting</i>) of the <i>Oluſcula</i>, + and <i>ex foliis pubeſcentibus</i>, or (as <i>Martial</i> calls them) + <i>Prototomi rudes</i>, and very tendereſt Parts <i>Gems</i>, young + <i>Buds</i>, and even firſt Rudiments of their ſeveral Plants; + ſuch as we ſometimes find in the <i>Craws</i> of the <i>Wood-Culver</i>, + <i>Stock-Dove</i>, <i>Partridge</i>, <i>Pheaſants</i>, and other + Upland Fowl, where we have a natural <i>Sallet</i>, pick'd, and almoſt + dreſs'd to our hands. + </p> + <p> + I. Preparatory to the Dreſſing therefore, let your Herby + Ingredients be exquiſitely cull'd, <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page63" name="page63"></a>[63]</span> and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, + ſlimy, canker'd, dry, ſpotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And + then that they be rather diſcreetly ſprinkl'd, than over-much + ſob'd with Spring-Water, eſpecially <i>Lettuce</i>, which Dr. <a + href="#note-57" name="noteref-57" class="noteref" id="noteref-57"><sup>57</sup></a><i>Muffet</i> + thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I ſuppoſe he means of the + <i>Cabbage</i>-kind, whoſe heads are ſufficiently protected by + the outer Leaves which cover it. After waſhing, let them remain a + while in the <i>Cullender</i>, to drain the ſuperfluous moiſture: + And laſtly, ſwing them altogether gently in a clean courſe + Napkin; and ſo they will be in perfect condition to receive the <i>Intinctus</i> + following. + </p> + <p> + II. That the <i>Oyl</i>, an Ingredient ſo indiſpenſibly and + highly neceſſary, as to have obtain'd the name of <i>Cibarium</i> + (and with us of <i>Sallet-Oyl</i>) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor + yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid <i>Olive</i> green, without + Smell, or the leaſt touch of <i>rancid</i>, or indeed of any other + ſensible Taſte or Scent at all; but ſmooth, light, and pleaſant + upon the Tongue; ſuch as the genuine <i>Omphacine</i>, and native <i>Luca + Olives</i> afford, fit to allay the tartneſs of <i>Vinegar</i>, and + other <i>Acids</i>, yet <span class="pagenum"><a id="page64" name="page64"></a>[64]</span> + gently to warm and humectate where it paſſes. Some who have an + averſion to <i>Oyl</i>, ſubſtitute freſh <i>Butter</i> + in its ſtead; but 'tis ſo exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, + as by no means to be allow'd. + </p> + <p> + III. <i>Thirdly</i>, That the <i>Vinegar</i> and other liquid <i>Acids</i>, + perfectly clear, neither ſowre, <i>Vapid</i> or ſpent; be of the + beſt Wine Vinegar, whether Diſtill'd, or otherwiſe <i>Aromatiz'd</i>, + and impregnated with the Infuſion of <i>Clove-gillyflowers</i>, <i>Elder</i>, + <i>Roſes</i>, <i>Roſemary</i>, <i>Naſturtium</i>, &c. + inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant. + </p> + <p> + A <i>Verjuice</i> not unfit for <i>Sallet</i>, is made by a <i>Grape</i> + of that Name, or the green immature Cluſters of moſt other + Grapes, preſs'd and put into a ſmall Veſſel to + ferment. + </p> + <p> + IV. <i>Fourthly</i>, That the <i>Salt</i> (<i>aliorum Condimentorum + Condimentum</i>, as <i>Plutarch</i> calls it) deterſive, penetrating, + quickning (and ſo great a reſiſter of Putrefaction, and + univerſal uſe, as to have ſometimes merited Divine + Epithets) be of the brighteſt <i>Bay grey-Salt</i>; moderately dried, + and <i>contus'd</i>, as being the leaſt Corroſive: But of this, + as of <i>Sugar</i> alſo, which ſome mingle with the <i>Salt</i> + (as warming without heating) if <span class="pagenum"><a id="page65" + name="page65"></a>[65]</span> perfectly refin'd, there would be no great + difficulty; provided none, ſave Ladies, were of the Meſs; whilſt + the perfection of <i>Sallets</i>, and that which gives them the name, conſiſts + in the grateful <i>Saline Acid</i>-point, temper'd as is directed, and + which we find to be moſt eſteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in + the mean time, have been ſo nice, and luxuriouſly curious as for + the heightning, and (as they affect to ſpeak) giving the utmoſt + <i>poinant</i> and <i>Relevèe</i> in lieu of our vulgar <i>Salt</i>, + to recommend and cry-up the <i>Eſſential-Salts</i> and <i>Spirits</i> + of the moſt Sanative Vegetables; or ſuch of the <i>Alcalizate</i> + and <i>Fixt</i>; extracted from the <i>Calcination</i> of <i>Baulm</i>, <i>Roſemary</i>, + <i>Wormwood</i>, <i>Scurvy-graſs</i>, &c. Affirming that without + the groſs Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreſhing + <i>Cordials</i>, and all the <i>Materia Medica</i> out of the <i>Salt-Cellar</i> + only: But to ſay no more of this Impertinence, as to <i>Salts</i> of + <i>Vegetables</i>; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike + in Operation, however different in <i>Taſte</i>, <i>Cryſtals</i>, + and <i>Figure</i>: It being a queſtion, whether they at all retain + the Vertues and Faculties of their <i>Simples</i>, unleſs they could + be made without <i>Colcination</i>. <i>Franciſcus Redi</i>, gives us + his Opinion of this, in a <i>Proceſs</i> how they are to be prepar'd; + and ſo does our <span class="pagenum"><a id="page66" name="page66"></a>[66]</span> + Learned <a href="#note-58" name="noteref-58" class="noteref" + id="noteref-58"><sup>58</sup></a>Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) whether <i>Lixivial</i>, + <i>Eſſential</i>, <i>Marine</i>, or other factitious <i>Salts</i> + of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But ſince 'tis + thought all <i>Fixed Salts</i> made the <i>common way</i>, are little + better than our <i>common Salt</i>, let it ſuffice, that our <i>Sallet-Salt</i> + be of the beſt ordinary <i>Bay-Salt</i>, clean, bright, dry, and + without clamineſs. + </p> + <p> + Of <i>Sugar</i> (by ſome call'd <i>Indian-Salt</i>) as it is rarely + us'd in <i>Sallet</i>, it ſhould be of the beſt refined, white, + hard, cloſe, yet light and ſweet as the <i>Madera's</i>: Nouriſhing, + preſerving, cleanſing, delighting the Taſte, and + preferrable to <i>Honey</i> for moſt uſes. <i>Note</i>, That + both <i>this</i>, <i>Salt</i>, and <i>Vinegar</i>, are to be proportion'd + to the Conſtitution, as well as what is ſaid of the Plants themſelves. + The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs. + </p> + <p> + V. That the <i>Muſtard</i> (another noble Ingredient) be of the beſt + <i>Tewksberry</i>; or elſe compos'd of the ſoundest and weightieſt + <i>Yorkſhire Seed</i>, exquiſitely ſifted, winnow'd, and + freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd + to the conſiſtence of a <span class="pagenum"><a id="page67" + name="page67"></a>[67]</span> Pap with <i>Vinegar</i>, in which ſhavings + of the <i>Horſe-Radiſh</i> have been ſteep'd: Then cutting + an <i>Onion</i>, and putting it into a ſmall Earthen <i>Gally-Pot</i>, + or ſome thick <i>Glaſs</i> of that ſhape; pour the <i>Muſtard</i> + over it, and cloſe it very well with a <i>Cork</i>. There be, who preſerve + the Flower and Duſt of the bruiſed Seed in a well-ſtopp'd + Glaſs, to temper, and have it freſh when they pleaſe. But + what is yet by ſome eſteem'd beyond all theſe, is compos'd + of the dried Seeds of the <i>Indian Naſturtium</i>, reduc'd to + Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little <i>Levain</i>, and ſo + from time to time made freſh, as indeed all other <i>Muſtard</i> + ſhould be. + </p> + <p> + <i>Note</i>, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a + poliſh'd <i>Cannon-Bullet</i>, in a large wooden Bowl-Diſh, or + which is moſt preferr'd, ground in a <i>Quern</i> contriv'd for this + purpoſe only. + </p> + <p> + VI. <i>Sixthly</i>, That the <i>Pepper</i> (white or black) be not bruis'd + to too ſmall a Duſt; which, as we caution'd, is very + prejudicial. And here let me mention the <i>Root</i> of the <i>Minor + Pimpinella</i>, or ſmall <i>Burnet Saxifrage</i>; which being dried, + is by ſome extoll'd beyond all other <i>Peppers</i>, and more wholſom. + </p> + <p> + Of other <i>Strewings</i> and <i>Aromatizers</i>, which <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page68" name="page68"></a>[68]</span> may likewiſe + be admitted to inrich our <i>Sallet</i>, we have already ſpoken, + where we mention <i>Orange</i> and <i>Limon-peel</i>; to which may alſo + be added, <i>Jamaica-Pepper</i>, <i>Juniper-berries</i>, &c. as of + ſingular Vertue. + </p> + <p> + Nor here ſhould I omit (the mentioning at leaſt of) <i>Saffron</i>, + which the <i>German</i> Houſewives have a <i>way</i> of forming into + Balls, by mingling it with a little <i>Honey</i>; which throughly dried, + they reduce to Powder, and ſprinkle it over their <i>Sallets</i> for + a noble <i>Cordial</i>. Thoſe of <i>Spain</i> and <i>Italy</i>, we + know, generally make uſe of this Flower, mingling its golden Tincture + with almoſt every thing they eat; But its being ſo apt to + prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little incourage its + admittance into our <i>Sallet</i>. + </p> + <p> + VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of freſh and new-laid <i>Eggs</i>, + boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and maſh'd with the <i>Muſtard</i>, + <i>Oyl</i>, and <i>Vinegar</i>; and part to cut into quarters, and eat + with the Herbs. + </p> + <p> + VIII. <i>Eighthly</i>, (according to the <i>ſuper</i>-curious) that + the <i>Knife</i>, with which the <i>Sallet Herbs</i> are cut (eſpecially + <i>Oranges</i>, <i>Limons</i>, &c.) be of <i>Silver</i>, and by no + means of <i>Steel</i>, which <span class="pagenum"><a id="page69" + name="page69"></a>[69]</span> all <i>Acids</i> are apt to corrode, and + retain a Metalic reliſh of. + </p> + <p> + IX. <i>Ninthly</i> and <i>Laſtly</i>, That the <i>Saladiere</i>, + (Sallet-Diſhes) be of <i>Porcelane</i>, or of the <i>Holland-Delft-Ware</i>; + neither too deep nor ſhallow, according to the quantity of the <i>Sallet</i> + Ingredients; <i>Pewter</i>, or even <i>Silver</i>, not at all ſo well + agreeing with <i>Oyl</i> and <i>Vinegar</i>, which leave their ſeveral + Tinctures. And note, That there ought to be one of the Diſhes, in + which to beat and mingle the Liquid <i>Vehicles</i>; and a ſecond to + receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they are to be pour'd; and then + with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually ſtirr'd, 'till all the + Furniture be equally moiſten'd: Some, who are huſbands of their + <i>Oyl</i>, pour at firſt the <i>Oyl</i> alone, as more apt to + communicate and diffuſe its Slipperineſs, than when it is + mingled and beaten with the <i>Acids</i>; which they pour on laſt of + all; and 'tis incredible how ſmall a quantity of <i>Oyl</i> (in this + quality, like the gilding of <i>Wyer</i>) is ſufficient, to imbue a + very plentiful aſſembly of <i>Sallet-Herbs</i>. + </p> + <p> + The <i>Sallet-Gatherer</i> likewiſe ſhould be provided with a + light, and neatly made <i>Withy-Dutch-Basket</i>, divided into ſeveral + Partitions. Thus inſtructed and knowing in the <i>Apparatus</i>; + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page70" name="page70"></a>[70]</span> the <i>Species</i>, + <i>Proportions</i>, and manner of <i>Dreſſing</i>, according to + the ſeveral Seaſons you have in the following Table. + </p> + <p> + It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble <a href="#note-59" + name="noteref-59" class="noteref" id="noteref-59"><sup>59</sup></a>Mr. <i>Boyle</i>, + what <i>Herbs</i> were proper and fit to make <i>Sallets</i> with, and how + beſt to order them? we have here (by the Aſſiſtance of + Mr. <i>London</i>, His Majeſty's Principal Gard'ner) reduc'd them to + a competent Number, not exceeding <i>Thirty Five</i>; but which may be + vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving out, any other <i>Sallet</i>-Plant, + mention'd in the foregoing Liſt, under theſe three or four + Heads. + </p> + <p> + But all theſe ſorts are not to be had at the very ſame + time, and therefore we have divided them into the <i>Quarterly Seaſons</i>, + each containing and laſting Three Months. + </p> + <p> + <i>Note</i>, That by <i>Parts</i> is to be underſtood a <i>Pugil</i>; + which is no more than one does uſually take up between the Thumb and + the two next Fingers. By <i>Faſcicule</i> a reaſonable full + Grip, or Handful. + </p> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + [Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their + original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section headers", + the column headers have been reproduced above each of these new sections, + and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually indicate the + restructuring. As you can see from following the link to the image of the + table, the original structure is <i>very</i> wide.] + </p> + <p style="text-align:center; text-indent: 0; font-variant: small-caps;"> + <a href="images/table.png">See the original table as an image.</a> + </p> + <table border="0" width="100%" summary="List of plants and their treatment for use in sallets."> + <tr> + <td colspan="6"> + <hr /> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="6"> + <b> IX. Blanch'd </b> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + </td> + <th colspan="3"> + Species. + </th> + <th></th> + <th> + Ordering and Culture. + </th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="9"> + <img src="images/sl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 13.5em; width: 18px; float: right;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + 1. <i>Endive</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td> + Tied-up to Blanch. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 2. <i>Cichory</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 6em; width: 12px; float: left;" /><br /> + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + Earth'd-up + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 3. <i>Sellery</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 4. <i>Sweet-Fennel</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 5. <i>Rampions</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + 6. <i>Roman</i> + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 6em; width: 12px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <i>Lettuce,</i> + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 6em; width: 12px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td> + Tied-up to Blanch. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + 7. <i>Coſſe</i> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + 8. <i>Sileſian</i> + </td> + <td> + Tied cloſe up. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + 9. <i>Cabbage</i> + </td> + <td> + Pome and Blanch of themſelves. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="6"> + <hr /> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="6"> + <b> XXVI. Green Unblanch'd </b> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + </td> + <th colspan="3"> + Species. + </th> + <th></th> + <th> + Ordering and Culture. + </th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="26"> + <img src="images/sl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 40em; width: 18px; float: right;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + 10. <i>Lob-Lettuce</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 4.5em; width: 12px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + Leaves, all of a midling ſize. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 11. <i>Corn-Sallet</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 12. <i>Purſlane</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 13. <i>Creſſes</i> broad, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 10px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + Seed-Leaves, and the next to them. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 14. <i>Spinach</i>, curled, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 15. <i>Sorrel</i> French, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 10px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + The fine young Leaves only, with the first Shoots. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 16. <i>Sorrel</i>, Greenland, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 17. <i>Radiſh</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td> + Only the tender young Leaves. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 18. <i>Creſſes</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td> + The Seed-Leaves, and thoſe only next them. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 19. <i>Turnep</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 4.5em; width: 12px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + The Seed-Leaves only. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 20. <i>Muſtard</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 21. <i>Scurvy-graſs</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 22. <i>Chervil</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 6em; width: 12px; float: left;" /><br /> + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + The young Leaves immediately after the Seedlings. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 23. <i>Burnet</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 24. <i>Rocket</i>, Spaniſh + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 25. <i>Perſley</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 26. <i>Tarragon</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 10px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + The tender Shoots and Tops. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 27. <i>Mints</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 28. <i>Sampier</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 4.5em; width: 12px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + The young tender Leaves and Shoots. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 29. <i>Balm</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 30. <i>Sage</i>, Red + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 31. <i>Shalots</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 10px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + The tender young Leaves. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 32. <i>Cives</i> and <i>Onion</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 33. <i>Naſturtium</i>, Indian + </td> + <td></td> + <td> + The Flowers and Bud-Flowers. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 34. <i>Rampion</i>, Belgrade + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 10px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + The Seed-Leaves and young Tops. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + 35. <i>Trip-Madame</i>, + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <table border="0" width="100%" summary="Time of year and proportions to be used of various sallet ingredients."> + <!-- 9 cols --> + <!-- ================= PART ONE ================== --> + <tr> + <td colspan="9"> + <hr /> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="9"> + Month. <i>January</i>, <i>February</i>, and <i>March</i>. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <th> + Order. <br /> and <br /> Cult. + </th> + <th> + </th> + <th colspan="3"> + Species. + </th> + <th> + </th> + <th colspan="3"> + Proportion. + </th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="5"> + Blanch'd as before + </td> + <td rowspan="5"> + <img src="images/cl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 7.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Rampions</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="5"> + <img src="images/cl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 7.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td align="center"> + 10 + </td> + <td rowspan="5"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 7.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="5"> + Roots in number. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Endive</i>, + </td> + <td align="center"> + 2 + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Succory</i>, + </td> + <td align="center"> + 5 + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Fennel</i>, ſweet, + </td> + <td align="center"> + 10 + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sellery</i>, + </td> + <td align="center"> + 4 + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="20"> + Green and <br /> Unblanch'd + </td> + <td rowspan="20"> + <img src="images/sl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 30em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Lamb-Lettuce</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + A pugil of each. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Lob-Lettuce</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Radiſh</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + Three parts each. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Creſſes</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Turneps</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 4.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="3" colspan="3"> + Of each One part. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Muſtard</i> Seedlings, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Scurvy-graſs</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Spinach</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sorrel</i>, Greenland, + </td> + <td rowspan="5"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 7.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="5" colspan="3"> + One part of each. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sorrel</i>, French, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Chervel</i>, ſweet, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Burnet</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Rocket</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Tarragon</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Twenty large Leaves. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Balm</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 4.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="3" colspan="3"> + One ſmall part of each. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Mint</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sampier</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Shalots</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + Very few. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Cives</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Cabbage</i>-Winter, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Two pugils or ſmall handfuls. + </td> + </tr> + <!-- ================= PART TWO ================== --> + <tr> + <td colspan="9"> + <hr /> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="9"> + Month. <i>April</i>, <i>May</i>, and <i>June</i>. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <th> + Order. <br /> and <br /> Cult. + </th> + <th> + </th> + <th colspan="3"> + Species. + </th> + <th> + </th> + <th colspan="3"> + Proportion. + </th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="3"> + Blanch'd + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <img src="images/cl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 4.5em; width: 8px; float: right;" /> + </td> + <td> + <i>Lop</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 4.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <i>Lettuce</i>. + </td> + <td rowspan="3"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 4.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3" rowspan="3"> + Of each a pugil. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <i>Sileſian</i> Winter + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + <i>Roman</i> Winter + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="13"> + Green Herbs <br /> Unblanch'd. <br /> Note, <i>That <br /> the young + <br /> Seedling Leaves <br /> of</i> Orange <i>and</i> <br /> Limon <i>may + all <br /> theſe Months be <br /> mingled with <br /> the Sallet</i>. + </td> + <td rowspan="13"> + <img src="images/sl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 19.5em; width: 8px; float: right;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Radiſhes</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Three parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Creſſes</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Purſelan</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + 1 Faſciat, or pretty full gripe. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sorrel</i>, French + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sampier</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + One part. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Onions</i>, young + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Six parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sage</i>-tops, the Red, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Perſley</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="5"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 7.5em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="5" colspan="3"> + Of each One part. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Creſſes</i>, the Indian, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Lettuce</i>, Belgrade, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Trip-Madame</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Chervil</i>, ſweet, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Burnet</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <!-- ================= PART THREE ================== --> + <tr> + <td colspan="9"> + <hr /> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="9"> + Month. <i>July</i>, <i>Auguſt</i>, and <i>September</i>. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <th> + Order. <br /> and <br /> Cult. + </th> + <th> + </th> + <th colspan="3"> + Species. + </th> + <th> + </th> + <th colspan="3"> + Proportion. + </th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="4"> + Blanch'd, <i>and <br /> may be eaten <br /> by themſelves <br /> + with ſome</i> <br /> Naſturtium-<i>Flowers</i>. + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <img src="images/cl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 6em; width: 8px; float: right;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + Sileſian <i>Lettuce</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + One whole <i>Lettuce</i>. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + Roman <i>Lettuce</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Creſs</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Cabbage</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Four parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="9"> + Green Herbs <br /> <i>by themſelves, <br /> or mingl'd <br /> with + the</i> <br /> Blanch'd. + </td> + <td rowspan="9"> + <img src="images/sl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 13.5em; width: 12px; float: right;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Creſſes</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Naſturtium</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Purſlane</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + One part. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Lop-Lettuce</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Belgrade</i>, or Crumpen-<i>Lettuce</i>, + </td> + <td> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 2em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Tarragon</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + One part. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sorrel</i>, French + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + Two parts of each. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Burnet</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Trip-Madame</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + One part. + </td> + </tr> + <!-- ================= PART FOUR ================== --> + <tr> + <td colspan="9"> + <hr /> + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="9"> + Month. <i>October</i>, <i>November</i>, and <i>December</i>. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <th> + Order. <br /> and <br /> Cult. + </th> + <th> + </th> + <th colspan="3"> + Species. + </th> + <th> + </th> + <th colspan="3"> + Proportion. + </th> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="6"> + Blanch'd + </td> + <td rowspan="6"> + <img src="images/sl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 9em; width: 12px; float: right;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Endive</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + Two if large, four if ſmall, Stalk and part of the Root and + Tendereſt Leaves. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Sellery</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Lop-Lettuce</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + An handful of each. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Lambs-Lettuce</i>, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Radiſh</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Three parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Creſſes</i>, + </td> + <td></td> + <td colspan="3"> + Two parts. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td rowspan="4"> + Green + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <img src="images/cl-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 6em; width: 10px; float: right;" /> + </td> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Turneps</i>, + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + One part of each. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Muſtard</i> Seedlings, + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Creſſes</i>, broad + </td> + <td rowspan="2"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 3em; width: 8px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="2" colspan="3"> + Two parts of each. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td colspan="3"> + <i>Spinach</i>, + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <hr /> + <p style="text-align:center; text-indent: 0; font-variant: small-caps;"> + <a href="images/table.png">See the original table as an image.</a> + </p> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page71" name="page71"></a>[71]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <p style="margin-left: 1.5em; text-indent: -1.5em; font-size: 150%;"> + <i>Farther Directions concerning the proper</i> Seaſons <i>for the</i> + Gathering, Compoſing, <i>and</i> Dreſſing <i>of a</i> + Sallet. + </p> + <hr class="full" /> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + <span class="dropcap">A</span> <span class="smallcap" + style="margin-left: -.75em;">nd</span> <i>Firſt</i>, as to the <i>Seaſon</i> + both <i>Plants</i> and <i>Roots</i> are then properly to be <i>Gather'd</i>, + and in prime, when moſt they abound with Juice and in Vigour: Some in + the <i>Spring</i>, or a little anticipating it before they Bloſſom, + or are in full Flower: Some in the <i>Autumnal</i> Months; which later Seaſon + many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in ſuch exuberance, yet as + being then better concocted, and ſo render'd fit for <i>Salleting</i>, + 'till the Spring begins a freſh to put forth new, and tender Shoots + and Leaves. + </p> + <p> + This, indeed, as to the <i>Root</i>, newly taken out of the Ground is + true; and therefore ſhould ſuch have their <i>Germination</i> + ſtopt the ſooner: The approaching and prevailing Cold, both + Maturing and Impregnating them; as does Heat the contrary, which now would + but exhauſt them: But for thoſe other <i>Eſculents</i> and + Herbs imploy'd in our <i>Compoſition</i> of <i>Sallets</i>, <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page72" name="page72"></a>[72]</span> the early <i>Spring</i>, + and enſuing Months (till they begin to mount, and prepare to <i>Seed</i>) + is certainly the moſt natural, and kindly Seaſon to collect and + accommodate them for the Table. Let none then conſult <i>Culpeper</i>, + or the <i>Figure-flingers</i>, to inform them when the governing <i>Planet</i> + is in its <i>Exaltation</i>; but look upon the <i>Plants</i> themſelves, + and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions. + </p> + <p> + Moreover, in <i>Gathering</i>, Reſpect is to be had to their + Proportions, as provided for in the <i>Table</i> under that Head, be the + Quality whatſoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholſome + than <i>Lettuce</i> and <i>Muſtard</i> for the <i>Head</i> and <i>Eyes</i>; + yet either of them eaten in exceſs, were highly prejudicial to them + both: Too much of the <i>firſt</i> extreamly debilitating and + weakning the <i>Ventricle</i>, and haſtning the further decay of + ſickly <i>Teeth</i>; and of the <i>ſecond</i> the <i>Optic + Nerves</i>, and <i>Sight</i> it ſelf; the like may be ſaid of + all the reſt. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Perſon, well + acquainted with the Nature and Properties of <i>Sallet-Herbs</i>, &c. + to be both the fitteſt <i>Gatherer</i> and <i>Compoſer</i> too; + which yet will require no great Cunning, after once he is acquainted with + our <i>Table</i> and <i>Catalogue</i>. + </p> + <p> + We purpoſely, and <i>in tranſitu</i> only, take notice here of + the Pickl'd, <i>Muriated</i>, or otherwiſe <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page73" name="page73"></a>[73]</span> prepared Herbs; excepting ſome + ſuch Plants, and Proportions of them, as are of hard digeſtion, + and not fit to be eaten altogether <i>Crude</i>, (of which in the <i>Appendix</i>) + and among which I reckon <i>Aſh-keys</i>, <i>Broom-buds</i> and <i>Pods</i>, + <i>Haricos</i>, <i>Gurkems</i>, <i>Olives</i>, <i>Capers</i>, the Buds and + Seeds of <i>Naſturtia</i>, <i>Young Wall-nuts</i>, <i>Pine-apples</i>, + <i>Eringo</i>, <i>Cherries</i>, <i>Cornelians</i>, <i>Berberries</i>, <i>&c.</i> + together with ſeveral Stalks, Roots, and Fruits; Ordinary Pot-herbs, + <i>Anis</i>, <i>Ciſtus Hortorum</i>, <i>Horminum</i>, <i>Pulegium</i>, + <i>Satureia</i>, <i>Thyme</i>; the intire Family of Pulſe and <i>Legumena</i>; + or other <i>Sauces</i>, <i>Pies</i>, <i>Tarts</i>, <i>Omlets</i>, <i>Tanſie</i>, + <i>Farces</i>, &c. <i>Condites</i> and Preſerves with <i>Sugar</i> + by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all of them the genuine Production of + the <i>Garden</i>, and mention'd in our <i>Kalendar</i>, together with + their Culture; whilſt we confine our ſelves to ſuch Plants + and <i>Eſculenta</i> as we find at hand; delight our ſelves to + gather, and are eaſily prepar'd for an <i>Extemporary Collation</i>, + or to Uſher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more + Agreeable) Diſhes, as the Cuſtom is. + </p> + <p> + But there now ſtarts up a Queſtion, Whether it were better, or + more proper, to <i>Begin</i> with <i>Sallets</i>, or End and Conclude with + them? Some think the harder Meats ſhould firſt be eaten for + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page74" name="page74"></a>[74]</span> better + Concoction; others, thoſe of eaſiest Digeſtion, to make + way, and prevent Obſtruction; and this makes for our <i>Sallets</i>, + <i>Horarii</i>, and <i>Fugaces Fructus</i> (as they call 'em) to be eaten + firſt of all, as agreeable to the general Opinion of the great <i>Hippocrates</i>, + and <i>Galen</i>, and of <i>Celſus</i> before him. And therefore the + <i>French</i> do well, to begin with their <i>Herbaceous Pottage</i>, and + for the <i>Cruder</i>, a Reason is given: + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-60" name="noteref-60" class="noteref" id="noteref-60"><sup>60</sup></a><i>Prima + tibi dabitur Ventri</i> Lactuca <i>movendo</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Utilis, & Poris fila refecta ſuis</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + And tho' this Cuſtom came in about Domitian's time<a href="#note-61" + name="noteref-61" class="noteref" id="noteref-61"><sup>61</sup></a>, <span + class="Greek" title="ho m arkaioi"> ο μ αρκαιοι</span>, + <!-- [Greek: ho m arkaioi] --> they anciently did quite the contrary, + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-62" name="noteref-62" class="noteref" id="noteref-62"><sup>62</sup></a><i>Gratáque + nobilium Lactuca ciborum</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + But of later Times, they were conſtant at the <i>Ante-cœnia</i>, + eating plentifully of <i>Sallet</i>, eſpecially of <i>Lettuce</i>, + and more refrigerating Herbs. Nor without Cauſe: For drinking + liberally they were found to expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the + <i>genial Compotation</i>, the ſpirituous <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page75" name="page75"></a>[75]</span> Liquor gently conciliating + Sleep: Beſides, that being of a crude nature, more diſpos'd, and + apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and diſturb a ſurcharg'd Stomach; + they thought convenient to begin with <i>Sallets</i>, and innovate the + ancient Uſage. + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-63" name="noteref-63" class="noteref" id="noteref-63"><sup>63</sup></a>——<i>Nam + Lactuca innatat acri</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Poſt Vinum Stomacho</i>—— + </p> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat, + </p> + <p> + It floats upon the Stomach—— + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + The <i>Spaniards</i>, notwithſtanding, eat but ſparingly of + Herbs at Dinner, eſpecially <i>Lettuce</i>, beginning with <i>Fruit</i>, + even before the <i>Olio</i> and Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking + their Wine pure, and eating the beſt Bread in the World; ſo as + it ſeems the Queſtion ſtill remains undecided with them, + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-64" name="noteref-64" class="noteref" id="noteref-64"><sup>64</sup></a><i>Claudere + quae cœnas</i> Lactuca <i>ſolebat avorum</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Dic mihi cur noſtras inchoat illa dapes?</i> + </p> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + The <i>Sallet</i>, which of old came in at laſt, + </p> + <p> + Why now with it begin we our Repaſt? + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page76" name="page76"></a>[76]</span> + </p> + <p> + And now ſince we mention'd <i>Fruit</i>, there riſes another + Scruple: Whether <i>Apples</i>, <i>Pears</i>, <i>Abricots</i>, <i>Cherries</i>, + <i>Plums</i>, and other Tree, and <i>Ort-yard-Fruit</i>, are to be + reckon'd among <i>Salleting</i>; and when likewiſe moſt ſeaſonably + to be eaten? But as none of theſe do properly belong to our <i>Catalogue</i> + of <i>Herbs</i> and <i>Plants</i>, to which this Diſcourſe is + confin'd (beſsides what we may occaſionally ſpeak of + hereafter) there is a very uſeful <a href="#note-65" name="noteref-65" + class="noteref" id="noteref-65"><sup>65</sup></a>Treatiſe on that + Subject already publiſh'd. We haſten then in the next place to + the <i>Dreſſing</i>, and <i>Compoſing</i> of our Sallet: + For by this time, our Scholar may long to ſee the <i>Rules</i> + reduc'd to <i>Practice</i>, and Refreſh himſelf with what he + finds growing among his own <i>Lactuceta</i> and other Beds of the <i>Kitchin-Garden</i>. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page77" name="page77"></a>[77]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <hr /> + <h2> + DRESSING + </h2> + <hr /> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + <span class="dropcap">I</span> <span class="smallcap">am</span> not + ambitious of being thought an excellent <i>Cook</i>, or of thoſe who + ſet up, and value themſelves, for their skill in <i>Sauces</i>; + ſuch as was <i>Mithacus</i> a <i>Culinary Philoſopher</i>, and + other <i>Eruditæ Gulæ</i>; who read Lectures of <i>Hautgouts</i>, + like the <i>Archeſtratus</i> in <i>Athenæus</i>: Tho' after + what we find the <i>Heroes</i> did of old, and ſee them chining out + the ſlaughter'd <i>Ox</i>, dreſſing the Meat, and do the + Offices of both <i>Cook</i> and <i>Butcher</i>, (for ſo <a + href="#note-66" name="noteref-66" class="noteref" id="noteref-66"><sup>66</sup></a><i>Homer</i> + repreſents <i>Achilles</i> himſelf, and the reſt of thoſe + Illuſtrious <i>Greeks</i>) I ſay, after this, let none reproach + our <i>Sallet-Dreſſer</i>, or diſdain ſo clean, + innocent, ſweet, and Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles + Filth and <i>Nidor</i>, Blood and Cruelty; whilſt all the World were + <i>Eaters</i>, and <i>Compoſers</i> of <i>Sallets</i> in its beſt + and brighteſt Age. + </p> + <p> + The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the <i>Endive</i> + have all its out-ſide Leaves ſtripped off, ſlicing <i>in</i> + the White: In like manner the <i>Sellery</i> is alſo to <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page78" name="page78"></a>[78]</span> have the + hollow green Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; ſlicing-in the + blanched Part, and cutting the Root into four equal Parts. + </p> + <p> + <i>Lettuce</i>, <i>Greſſes</i>, <i>Radiſh</i>, &c. (as + was directed) muſt be exquiſitely pick'd, cleans'd, waſh'd, + and put into the Strainer; ſwing'd, and ſhaken gently, and, if + you pleaſe, ſeparately, or all together; Becauſe ſome + like not ſo well the <i>Blanch'd</i> and Bitter Herbs, if eaten with + the reſt: Others mingle <i>Endive</i>, <i>Succory</i>, and <i>Rampions</i>, + without diſtinction, and generally eat <i>Sellery</i> by it ſelf, + as alſo Sweet <i>Fennel</i>. + </p> + <p> + From <i>April</i> till <i>September</i> (and during all the Hot <i>Months</i>) + may <i>Guinny-Pepper</i>, and <i>Horſe-Radiſh</i> be left out; + and therefore we only mention them in the Dreſſing, which ſhould + be in this manner. + </p> + <p> + Your <i>Herbs</i> being handſomely parcell'd, and ſpread on a + clean Napkin before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen + glaz'd Diſhes: Then, for the <i>Oxoleon</i>; Take of clear, and + perfectly good <i>Oyl-Olive</i>, three Parts; of ſharpeſt <i>Vinegar</i> + (<a href="#note-67" name="noteref-67" class="noteref" id="noteref-67"><sup>67</sup></a>ſweeteſt + of all <i>Condiments</i>) <i>Limon</i>, or Juice of <i>Orange</i>, one + Part; and therein let ſteep ſome Slices of <i>Horſe-Radiſh</i>, + with a <span class="pagenum"><a id="page79" name="page79"></a>[79]</span> + little <i>Salt</i>; Some in a ſeparate <i>Vinegar</i>, gently bruiſe + a <i>Pod</i> of <i>Guinny-Pepper</i>, ſtraining both the <i>Vinegars</i> + apart, to make Uſe of Either, or One alone, or of both, as they beſt + like; then add as much <i>Tewkesbury</i>, or other dry <i>Muſtard</i> + grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle all theſe + very well together; but pour not on the <i>Oyl</i> and <i>Vinegar</i>, + 'till immediately before the <i>Sallet</i> is ready to be eaten: And then + with the <i>Yolk</i> of two new-laid <i>Eggs</i> (boyl'd and prepar'd, as + before is taught) ſquaſh, and bruiſe them all into maſh + with a Spoon; and laſtly, pour it all upon the <i>Herbs</i>, ſtirring, + and mingling them 'till they are well and throughly imbib'd; not + forgetting the Sprinklings of <i>Aromaticks</i>, and ſuch Flowers, as + we have already mentioned, if you think fit, and garniſhing the Diſh + with the thin Slices of <i>Horſe-Radiſh</i>, <i>Red Beet</i>, <i>Berberries</i>, + &c. + </p> + <p> + <i>Note</i>, That the <i>Liquids</i> may be made more, or leſs <i>Acid</i>, + as is moſt agreeable to your Taſte. + </p> + <p> + Theſe <i>Rules</i>, and <i>Preſcriptions</i> duly <i>Obſerv'd</i>; + you have a <i>Sallet</i> (for a Table of Six or Eight Perſons) <i>Dreſs'd</i>, + and Accommodated <i>ſecundum Artem</i>: For, as the <a href="#note-68" + name="noteref-68" class="noteref" id="noteref-68"><sup>68</sup></a>Proverb + has it, <span class="pagenum"><a id="page80" name="page80"></a>[80]</span> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <span class="Greek" + title="'Ou ôantos andros esin artusai kalôs"> Ου + ωαντος ανδρος + εσιν αρτυσαι + καλως</span>. + <!-- [Greek: 'Ou ôantos andros esin artusai kalôs.] --> + </p> + <p> + <i>Non eſt cujuſvis rectè condire</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <span class="smallcap">And</span> now after all we have advanc'd in favour + of the <i>Herbaceous</i> Diet, there ſtill emerges a third Inquiry; + namely, Whether the Uſe of <i>Crude Herbs</i> and <i>Plants</i> are + ſo wholeſom as is pretended? + </p> + <p> + What Opinion the Prince of Phyſicians had of them, we ſhall + ſee hereafter; as alſo what the Sacred Records of elder Times + ſeem to infer, before there were any Fleſh-Shambles in the + World; together with the Reports of ſuch as are often converſant + among many Nations and People, who to this Day, living on <i>Herbs</i> and + <i>Roots</i>, arrive to incredible Age, in conſtant Health and + Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the <i>Air</i> and <i>Climate</i>, + <i>Cuſtom</i>, <i>Conſtitution</i>, &c. ſhould be + inquir'd into; eſpecially, when we compare the <i>Antediluvians</i> + mention'd <i>Gen.</i> 1. 29--the whole <i>Fifth</i> and <i>Ninth</i> + Chapters, <i>ver.</i> 3. confining them to <i>Fruit</i> and wholeſom + Sallets: I deny not that both the <i>Air</i> and <i>Earth</i> might then + be leſs humid and clammy, and conſequently Plants, and Herbs + better fermented, concocted, and leſs Rheumatick, than ſince, + and preſently after; to ſay nothing of the infinite Numbers of + putrid Carcaſſes of Dead <span class="pagenum"><a id="page81" + name="page81"></a>[81]</span> Animals, periſhing in the Flood, (of + which I find few, if any, have taken notice) which needs muſt have + corrupted the Air: Thoſe who live in Marſhes, and Uliginous + Places (like the Hundreds of <i>Eſſex</i>) being more obnoxious + to <i>Fevers</i>, <i>Agues</i>, <i>Pleuriſies</i>, and generally + unhealthful: The Earth alſo then a very Bog, compar'd with what it + likely was before that deſtructive <i>Cataclyſm</i>, when Men + breath'd the pure <i>Paradiſian</i> Air, ſucking in a more <i>æthereal</i>, + nouriſhing, and baulmy <i>Pabulum</i>, ſo foully vitiated now, + thro' the Intemperance, Luxury, and ſofter Education and Effeminacy + of the Ages ſince. + </p> + <p> + <i>Cuſtom</i>, and <i>Conſtitution</i> come next to be examin'd, + together with the Qualities, and <i>Vertue</i> of the Food; and I confeſs, + the two firſt, eſpecially that of <i>Conſtitution</i>, + ſeems to me the more likely Cauſe of Health, and conſequently + of Long-life; which induc'd me to conſider of what Quality the uſual + <i>Sallet</i> Furniture did more eminently conſiſt, that ſo + it might become more ſafely applicable to the Temper, Humour, and Diſpoſition + of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures might be regulated + and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but thoſe whoſe Conſtitutions + are Cold and Moiſt, are naturally affected with Things which are Hot + and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and <span class="pagenum"><a id="page82" + name="page82"></a>[82]</span> Dry Complexions, with ſuch as cool and + refrigerate; which perhaps made the <i>Junior Gordian</i> (and others like + him) prefer the <i>frigidæ Menſæ</i> (as of old they + call'd <i>Sallets</i>) which, according to <i>Cornelius Celſus</i>, + is the fitteſt Diet for <i>Obeſe</i> and Corpulent Perſons, + as not ſo Nutritive, and apt to Pamper: And conſequently, that + for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated; ſuch Herby Ingredients ſhould + be made choice of, as warm, and cheriſh the Natural Heat, depure the + Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive the Spirits: And therefore my <i>Lord</i> + <a href="#note-69" name="noteref-69" class="noteref" id="noteref-69"><sup>69</sup></a><i>Bacon</i> + ſhews what are beſt Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants + fitteſt to nouriſh. <i>Galen</i> indeed ſeems to exclude + them all, unleſs well accompanied with their due Correctives, of + which we have taken care: Notwithſtanding yet, that even the moſt + <i>Crude</i> and <i>Herby</i>, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be + Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the moſt vigorous Animals, whoſe + Food is only Graſs. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially + mingl'd, and dreſs'd a <i>Sallet</i> for them in every field, beſides + what they diſtinguiſh by Smell; nor queſtion <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page83" name="page83"></a>[83]</span> I, but Man at + firſt knew what Plants and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his + Natural Sagacity, and not Experience; which ſince by Art, and Trial, + and long Obſervation of their Properties and Effects, they hardly + recover: But in all Events, ſuppoſing with <a href="#note-70" + name="noteref-70" class="noteref" id="noteref-70"><sup>70</sup></a><i>Cardan</i>, + that Plants nouriſh little, they hurt as little. Nay, Experience + tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, but exceedingly benefit thoſe + who uſe them; indu'd as they are with ſuch admirable Properties + as they every day diſcover: For ſome Plants not only nouriſh + laudably, but induce a manifeſt and wholeſom Change; as <i>Onions</i>, + <i>Garlick</i>, <i>Rochet</i>, &c. which are both nutritive and warm; + <i>Lettuce</i>, <i>Purſelan</i>, the <i>Intybs</i>, &c. and + indeed moſt of the <i>Olera</i>, refreſh and cool: And as their + reſpective Juices being converted into the Subſtances of our + Bodies, they become <i>Aliment</i>; ſo in regard of their Change and + Alteration, we may allow them <i>Medicinal</i>; eſpecially the + greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of very few + (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole <i>Materia Medica</i>) + which may be juſtly call'd <i>Infallible Specifics</i>, <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page84" name="page84"></a>[84]</span> and upon whoſe + Performance we may as ſafely depend, as we may on ſuch as + familiarly we uſe for a Crude <i>Herb-Sallet;</i> diſcreetly choſen, + mingl'd, and dreſs'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be + improv'd, and render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in <i>Oyl</i>, + <i>Vinegar</i>, and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not + in all, nay, perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I ſaid, the + Choice, Mixture, Conſtitution, and <i>Seaſon</i> rightly be + underſtood) we ſtand up in Defence and Vindication of our <i>Sallet</i>, + againſt all Attacks and Oppoſers whoever. + </p> + <p> + We have mentioned <i>Seaſon</i> and with the great <i>Hippocrates</i>, + pronounce them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when thoſe + Parts of Plants us'd in <i>Sallet</i> are yet tender, delicate, and + impregnated with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refreſh, and + allay the Heat and Drought of the Hot and <i>Bilious</i>, Young and over-<i>Sanguine</i>, + Cold, <i>Pituit</i>, and Melancholy; in a word, for Perſons of all + Ages, Humours, and Conſtitutions whatſoever. + </p> + <p> + To this of the <i>Annual Seaſons</i>, we add that of <i>Culture</i> + alſo, as of very great Importance: And this is often diſcover'd + in the taſte and conſequently in the Goodneſs of ſuch + Plants and <i>Salleting</i>, as are Rais'd and brought us <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page85" name="page85"></a>[85]</span> freſh + out of the Country, compar'd with thoſe which the Avarice of the <i>Gardiner</i>, + or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts them to force and <i>Reſuſcitate</i> + of the moſt deſirable and delicious Plants. + </p> + <p> + It is certain, ſays a <a href="#note-71" name="noteref-71" + class="noteref" id="noteref-71"><sup>71</sup></a>Learned Perſon, that + about populous Cities, where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early + <i>Salleting</i>, nothing is more unwholſom: Men in the Country look + ſo much more healthy and freſh; and commonly are longer liv'd + than thoſe who dwell in the Middle and Skirts of vaſt and + crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung, loathſome and common Lay + Stalls; whoſe noiſome Steams, wafted by the Wind, poiſon + and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with thoſe pernicious + Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the <i>Hot Beds</i> for the + raiſing thoſe <i>Præcoces</i> indeed, and forward Plants + and Roots for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, + cannot but produce malignant and ill Effects to thoſe who feed upon + them. And the ſame was well obſerv'd by the <i>Editor</i> of our + famous <i>Roger Bacon's</i> Treatiſe concerning the <i>Cure of Old + Age</i>, and <i>Preſervation of Youth</i>: There being nothing ſo + proper for <span class="pagenum"><a id="page86" name="page86"></a>[86]</span> + <i>Sallet Herbs</i> and other <i>Edule Plants</i>, as the Genial and + Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd with well-digeſted Compoſt + (when requiſite) without any Mixture of Garbage, odious Carrion, and + other filthy Ordure, not half conſum'd and ventilated and indeed + reduc'd to the next Diſpoſition of Earth it ſelf, as it + ſhould be; and that in Sweet, <a href="#note-72" name="noteref-72" + class="noteref" id="noteref-72"><sup>72</sup></a>Riſing, Aery and + moderately Perflatile Grounds; where not only <i>Plants</i> but <i>Men</i> + do laſt, and live much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would + prefer Corn, and other Grain rais'd from <i>Marle</i>, <i>Chalk</i>, <i>Lime</i>, + and other ſweet Soil and Amendments, before that which is produc'd + from the <i>Dunghil</i> only. Beſide, Experience ſhews, that the + Rankneſs of <i>Dung</i> is frequently the Cauſe of Blaſts + and Smuttineſs; as if the <i>Lord</i> of the <i>Univerſe</i>, by + an Act of viſible Providence would check us, to take heed of all + unnatural Sordidneſs and Mixtures. We ſenſibly find this + Difference in Cattle and their Paſture; but moſt powerfully in + <i>Fowl</i>, from ſuch as are nouriſh'd with Corn, ſweet + and dry Food: And as of Vegetable <i>Meats</i>, ſo of <i>Drinks</i>, + 'tis obſerv'd, that the ſame Vine, according to the <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page87" name="page87"></a>[87]</span> Soil, + produces a <i>Wine</i> twice as heady as in the ſame, and a leſs + forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to determine + any thing of the <i>Peach</i> ſaid to be Poiſon in <i>Perſia</i>; + becauſe 'tis a <i>Vulgar Error</i>. + </p> + <p> + Now, becauſe among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and + ſpurious Birth than what is ſo impatiently longed after as <i>Early + Aſparagus</i>, &c. <a href="#note-73" name="noteref-73" + class="noteref" id="noteref-73"><sup>73</sup></a>Dr. <i>Liſter</i>, + (according to his communicative and obliging Nature) has taught us how to + raiſe ſuch as our <i>Gardiners</i> cover with naſty Litter, + during the Winter; by rather laying of Clean and Sweet <i>Wheat-Straw</i> + upon the Beds, <i>ſuper-ſeminating</i> and over-ſtrowing + them thick with the Powder of bruiſed <i>Oyſter-Shells</i>, + &c. to produce that moſt tender and delicious <i>Sallet</i>. In + the mean while, if nothing will ſatisfie ſave what is rais'd <i>Ex + tempore</i>, and by Miracles of Art ſo long before the time; let them + ſtudy (like the <i>Adepti</i>) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom + I knew; That having ſome Friends of his accidentally come to Dine + with him, and wanting an early Sallet, Before they ſate down to + Table, ſowed <i>Lettuce</i> and ſome other Seeds in a certain + Compoſition of Mould he had prepared; which within the <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page88" name="page88"></a>[88]</span> ſpace of + two Hours, being riſen near two Inches high, preſented them with + a delicate and tender <i>Sallet</i>; and this, without making uſe of + any nauſeous or fulſome Mixture; but of Ingredients not + altogether ſo cheap perhaps. <i>Honoratus Faber</i> (no mean <i>Philoſopher</i>) + ſhews us another Method by ſowing the Seeds ſteep'd in <i>Vinegar</i>, + caſting on it a good quantity of <i>Bean-Shell</i> Aſhes, + irrigating them with <i>Spirit of Wine</i>, and keeping the Beds well + cover'd under dry Matts. Such another Proceſs for the raiſing + early <i>Peas</i> and <i>Beans</i>, &c. we have the like <a + href="#note-74" name="noteref-74" class="noteref" id="noteref-74"><sup>74</sup></a>Accounts + of: But were they practicable and certain, I confeſs I ſhould + not be fonder of them, than of ſuch as the honeſt induſtrious + Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden ſeaſonably produce; + where they are legitimately born in juſt time, and without forcing + Nature. + </p> + <p> + But to return again to <i>Health</i> and <i>Long Life</i>, and the Wholeſomneſs + of the Herby-Diet, <a href="#note-75" name="noteref-75" class="noteref" + id="noteref-75"><sup>75</sup></a><i>John Beverovicius</i>, a Learn'd Phyſician + (out of <i>Peter Moxa</i>, a <i>Spaniard</i>) treating of the extream Age, + which thoſe of <i>America</i> uſually arrive to, aſſerts + in behalf of Crude and Natural Herbs: <i>Diphilus</i> of old, as <a + href="#note-76" name="noteref-76" class="noteref" id="noteref-76"><sup>76</sup></a><i>Athenæus</i> + tells <span class="pagenum"><a id="page89" name="page89"></a>[89]</span> + us, was on the other ſide, againſt all the Tribe of <i>Olera</i> + in general; and <i>Cardan</i> of late (as already noted) no great Friend + to them; Affirming Fleſh-Eaters to be much wiſer and more ſagacious. + But this his <a href="#note-77" name="noteref-77" class="noteref" + id="noteref-77"><sup>77</sup></a>Learned Antagoniſt utterly denies; + Whole Nations, Fleſh-Devourers (ſuch as the fartheſt <i>Northern</i>) + becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than the <i>Southern</i>; + and ſuch as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, and of + deeper Penetration: Witneſs the <i>Chaldæans</i>, <i>Aſſyrians</i>, + <i>Ægyptians</i>, &c. And further argues from the ſhort + Lives of moſt <i>Carnivorous</i> Animals, compared with Graſs + Feeders, and the Ruminating kind; as the <i>Hart</i>, <i>Camel</i>, and + the longævous <i>Elephant</i>, and other Feeders on Roots and + Vegetables. + </p> + <p> + I know what is pretended of our Bodies being compoſed of <i>Diſſimilar</i> + Parts, and ſo requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion, + keeping to the ſame <i>Species</i>; of which there is infinitely more + Variety in the <i>Herby</i> Family, than in all Nature beſsides: But + the Danger is in the <i>Generical</i> Difference of <i>Fleſh</i>, <i>Fiſh</i>, + <i>Fruit</i>, &c. with other made Diſhes and exotic Sauces; which + a wanton and expenſive <span class="pagenum"><a id="page90" + name="page90"></a>[90]</span> Luxury has introduc'd; debauching the + Stomach, and ſharpening it to devour things of ſuch difficult + Concoction, with thoſe of more eaſie Digeſtion, and of + contrary Substances, more than it can well diſpose of: Otherwiſe + Food of the ſame kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of <a + href="#note-78" name="noteref-78" class="noteref" id="noteref-78"><sup>78</sup></a><i>Celſus</i>, + <i>Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiæ, genus, & + modus pertineat</i>. They are (ſays he) eaſily eaten and taken + in: But regard ſhould be had to their Digeſtion, Nature, + Quantity and Quality of the Matter. As to that of <i>Diſſimilar</i> + Parts, requiring this contended for Variety: If we may judge by other + Animals (as I know not why we may not) there is (after all the late Conteſts + about <i>Comparative Anatomy</i>) ſo little Difference in the + Structure, as to the Uſe of thoſe Parts and Veſſels deſtin'd + to ſerve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and other Separations + for Supply of Life, <i>&c.</i> That it does not appear why there + ſhould need any Difference at all of Food; of which the moſt + ſimple has ever been eſteem'd the beſt, and moſt wholſome; + according to that of the <a href="#note-79" name="noteref-79" + class="noteref" id="noteref-79"><sup>79</sup></a>Naturaliſt, <i>Hominis + cibus utiliſſimus ſimplex</i>. And that ſo it is in + other <span class="pagenum"><a id="page91" name="page91"></a>[91]</span> + Animals, we find by their being ſo ſeldom afflicted with Mens Diſtempers, + deriv'd from the Cauſes above-mentioned: And if the many Diſeaſes + of <i>Horſes</i> ſeem to <a href="#note-80" name="noteref-80" + class="noteref" id="noteref-80"><sup>80</sup></a>contradict it, I am apt + to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd + Stable Commons, which they muſt eat or ſtarve, however + qualified; being reſtrained from their Natural and Spontaneous + Choice, which Nature and Instinct directs them to: To theſe add the + Cloſeneſs of the Air, ſtanding in an almoſt continu'd + Poſture; beſides the fulſome Drenches, unſeaſonable + Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant <i>Horſe-Quacks</i> and + ſurly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Uſage of their Maſters + in tiring Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, + Colds, <i>&c.</i> which wear out and deſtroy ſo many of thoſe + uſeful and generous Creatures before the time: Such as have been + better us'd, and ſome, whom their more gentle and good-natur'd + Patrons have in recompence of their long and faithful service, diſmiſs'd, + and ſent to Paſture for the reſt of their Lives (as the <i>Grand + Seignior</i> does his <i>Meccha-Camel</i>) have been known to live <i>forty</i>, + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page92" name="page92"></a>[92]</span> <i>fifty</i>, + nay (ſays <a href="#note-81" name="noteref-81" class="noteref" + id="noteref-81"><sup>81</sup></a><i>Ariſtotle</i>,) no fewer than <i>ſixty + five</i> Years. When once Old <i>Par</i> came to change his ſimple, + homely Diet, to that of the <i>Court</i> and <i>Arundel-Houſe</i>, he + quickly ſunk and dropt away: For, as we have ſhew'd, the Stomack + eaſily concocts plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and + difficult Task, to vanquiſh and overcome Meats of <a href="#note-82" + name="noteref-82" class="noteref" id="noteref-82"><sup>82</sup></a>different + Subſtances: Whence we ſo often ſee temperate and abſtemious + Perſons, of a Collegiate Diet, very healthy; Huſbandsmen and + laborious People, more robuſt, and longer liv'd than others of an + uncertain extravagant Diet. + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-83" name="noteref-83" class="noteref" id="noteref-83"><sup>83</sup></a>——<i>Nam + variae res</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius eſcae,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Quae ſimplex olim tibi ſederit</i>—— + </p> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + For different Meats do hurt; + </p> + <p> + Remember how + </p> + <p> + When to one Diſh confin'd, thou + </p> + <p> + healthier waſt than now: + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + was <i>Oſellus's Memorandum</i> in the Poet. + </p> + <p> + Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and aſſiſt + our Appetite) is unneceſſary, nor any thing more grateful, refreſhing + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page93" name="page93"></a>[93]</span> and + proper for thoſe eſpecially who lead ſedentary and ſtudious + Lives; Men of deep Thought, and ſuch as are otherwiſe diſturb'd + with Secular Cares and Buſineſſes, which hinders the + Function of the Stomach and other Organs: whilſt thoſe who have + their Minds free, uſe much Exerciſe, and are more active, create + themſelves a natural Appetite, which needs little or no Variety to + quicken and content it. + </p> + <p> + And here might we atteſt the <i>Patriarchal</i> World, nay, and many + Perſons ſince; who living very temperately came not much ſhort + of the <i>Poſt-Diluvians</i> themſelves, counting from <i>Abraham</i> + to this Day; and ſome exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a conſtant, + tho' courſe and ſimple Diet; wholſome and uncompounded + Drink; that never taſted <i>Brandy</i> or <i>Exotic Spirits</i>; but + us'd moderate Exerciſe, and obſerv'd good Hours: For ſuch a + one a curious Miſſionary tells us of in Perſia; who had + attain'd the Age of <i>four hundred</i> Years, (a full <i>Century</i> + beyond the famous <i>Johannes de Temporibus</i>) and was living <i>Anno</i> + 1636, and ſo may be ſtill for ought we know. But, to our Sallet. + </p> + <p> + Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining <a href="#note-84" name="noteref-84" + class="noteref" id="noteref-84"><sup>84</sup></a><i>Herbs</i> and <i>Fruit</i> + for the Food of Men, ſpeaks not a <span class="pagenum"><a id="page94" + name="page94"></a>[94]</span> Word concerning <i>Fleſh</i> for two + thouſand Years. And when after, by the <i>Moſaic</i> Conſtitution, + there were Diſtinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanneſs + of <i>Animals</i>; <i>Plants</i>, of what kind ſoever, were left free + and indifferent for every one to chooſe what beſt he lik'd. And + what if it was held undecent and unbecoming the Excellency of Man's + Nature, before Sin entred, and grew enormouſly wicked, that any + Creature ſhould be put to Death and Pain for him who had ſuch + infinite ſtore of the moſt delicious and nouriſhing Fruit + to delight, and the Tree of Life to ſuſtain him? Doubtleſs + there was no need of it. Infants ſought the Mother's Nipple as ſoon + as born; and when grown, and able to feed themſelves, run naturally + to Fruit, and ſtill will chooſe to eat it rather than Fleſh + and certainly might ſo perſiſt to do, did not Cuſtom + prevail, even againſt the very Dictates of Nature: Nor, queſtion + I, but that what the Heathen <a href="#note-85" name="noteref-85" + class="noteref" id="noteref-85"><sup>85</sup></a><i>Poets</i> recount of + the Happineſs of the <i>Golden Age</i>, ſprung from ſome + Tradition they had received of the <i>Paradiſian</i> Fare, their + innocent and healthful Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it ſuffice, + that <i>Adam</i>, and his yet innocent Spouſe, fed on Vegetables and + other <span class="pagenum"><a id="page95" name="page95"></a>[95]</span> + Hortulan Productions before the fatal Lapſe; which, by the way, many + Learned Men will hardly allow to have fallen out ſo ſoon as thoſe + imagine who ſcarcely grant them a ſingle Day; nay, nor half a + one, for their Continuance in the State of Original Perfection; whilſt + the ſending him into the Garden; Inſtructions how he ſhould + keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition concerning the <i>Sacramental</i> + Trees; the Impoſition of <a href="#note-86" name="noteref-86" + class="noteref" id="noteref-86"><sup>86</sup></a>Names, ſo appoſite + to the Nature of ſuch an Infinity of Living Creatures (requiring deep + Inſpection) the Formation of <i>Eve</i>, a meet Companion to relieve + his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and Succeſs + of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reaſonably think made but one Aſſault: + And that they ſhould ſo quickly forget the Injunction of their + Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Faſt, and all other their + Obligations in ſo few Moments. I ſay, all theſe Particulars + conſider'd; Can it be ſuppoſed they were ſo ſoon + tranſacted as thoſe do fancy, who take their Meaſure from + the Summary <i>Moſes</i> gives us, who did not write to gratifie Mens + Curioſity, but to tranſmit what was neceſſary and + ſufficient for us to know. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page96" name="page96"></a>[96]</span> This + then premis'd (as I ſee no Reaſon why it ſhould not) and + that during all this Space they liv'd on <i>Fruits</i> and <i>Sallets</i>; + 'tis little probable, that after their Tranſgreſſion, and + that they had forfeited their Dominion over the Creature (and were ſentenc'd + and exil'd to a Life of Sweat and Labour on a curſed and ungrateful + Soil) the offended God ſhould regale them with Pampering <i>Fleſh</i>, + or ſo much as ſuffer them to ſlay the more innocent Animal: + Or, that if at any time they had Permiſſion, it was for any + thing ſave Skins to cloath them, or in way of Adoration, or <i>Holocauſt</i> + for Expiation, of which nothing of the <i>Fleſh</i> was to be eaten. + Nor did the Brutes themſelves ſubſiſt by Prey (tho' + pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without deſtroying their Fellow + Creatures) as may be preſum'd from their long Secluſion of the + moſt Carnivorous among them in the Ark. + </p> + <p> + Thus then for two thouſand Years, the Univerſal Food was <i>Herbs</i> + and <i>Plants</i>; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of <i>Fleſh</i> + and other luxurious Meats, which ſhortened their Lives ſo many + hundred Years; the <a href="#note-87" name="noteref-87" class="noteref" + id="noteref-87"><sup>87</sup></a> <span class="Greek" + title="makro-biotê-a">μακρο-βιοτη-α</span> + <!-- [Greek: makro-biotê-a] --> of the Patriarchs, which was an + Emblem of Eternity as it were (after the new <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page97" name="page97"></a>[97]</span> Conceſſion) beginning + to dwindle to a little Span, a Nothing in Compariſon. + </p> + <p> + On the other ſide, examine we the preſent Uſages of ſeveral + other Heathen Nations; particularly (beſsides the <i>Ægyptian</i> + Prieſts of old) the <i>Indian Bramins</i>, Relicts of the ancient <i>Gymnoſophists</i> + to this Day, obſerving the Inſtitutions of their Founder. <i>Fleſh</i>, + we know was baniſh'd the <i>Platonic</i> Tables, as well as from thoſe + of <i>Pythagoras</i>; (See <a href="#note-88" name="noteref-88" + class="noteref" id="noteref-88"><sup>88</sup></a><i>Porphyry</i> and their + Diſciples) tho' on different Accounts. Among others of the Philoſophers, + from <i>Xenocrates</i>, <i>Polemon</i>, &c. we hear of many. The like + we find in <a href="#note-89" name="noteref-89" class="noteref" + id="noteref-89"><sup>89</sup></a><i>Clement Alexand.</i> <a href="#note-90" + name="noteref-90" class="noteref" id="noteref-90"><sup>90</sup></a><i>Euſebius</i> + names more. <i>Zeno</i>, <i>Archinomus</i>, <i>Phraartes</i>, <i>Chiron</i>, + and others, whom <i>Lærtius</i> reckons up. In ſhort, ſo + very many, eſpecially of the Chriſtian Profeſſion, + that ſome, even of the ancient <a href="#note-91" name="noteref-91" + class="noteref" id="noteref-91"><sup>91</sup></a>Fathers themſelves, + have almost thought that the Permiſſion of eating Fleſh to + <i>Noah</i> and his Sons, was granted them no otherwiſe than <i>Repudiation</i> + of Wives was to the <i>Jews</i>, namely, for <i>the Hardneſs of their + Hearts</i>, and to ſatisfie a murmuring Generation that a little + after loathed <i>Manna</i> it ſelf, and <i>Bread from Heaven</i>. + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page98" name="page98"></a>[98]</span> So + difficult a thing it is to ſubdue an unruly Appetite; which notwithſtanding + <a href="#note-92" name="noteref-92" class="noteref" id="noteref-92"><sup>92</sup></a><i>Seneca</i> + thinks not ſo hard a Task; where ſpeaking of the Philoſopher + <i>Sextius</i>, and <i>Socion's</i> (abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) + he celebrates the Advantages of the <i>Herby</i> and <i>Sallet</i> Diet, + as <i>Phyſical</i>, and <i>Natural</i> Advancers of Health and other + Bleſſings; whilſt Abſtinence from Fleſh deprives + Men of nothing but what <i>Lions</i>, <i>Vultures</i>, Beaſts and + birds of Prey, blood and gorge themſelves withal, The whole <i>Epiſtle</i> + deſerves the Reading, for the excellent Advice he gives on this and + other Subjects; and how from many troubleſome and ſlaviſh + Impertinencies, grown into Habit and Cuſtom (old as he was) he had + Emancipated and freed himſelf: Be this apply'd to our preſent + exceſſive Drinkers of Foreign and <i>Exotic</i> Liquors. And now + </p> + <p> + I am ſufficiently ſenſible how far, and to how little purpoſe + I am gone on this <i>Topic</i>: The Ply is long ſince taken, and our + raw <i>Sallet</i> deckt in its beſt Trim, is never like to invite Men + who once have taſted <i>Fleſh</i> to quit and abdicate a Cuſtom + which has now ſo long obtain'd. Nor truly do I think Conſcience + at all concern'd in the Matter, upon any Account of <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page99" name="page99"></a>[99]</span> Distinction of <i>Pure</i> and + <i>Impure</i>; tho' ſeriouſly conſider'd (as <i>Sextius</i> + held) <i>rationi magis congrua</i>, as it regards the cruel Butcheries of + ſo many harmleſs Creatures; ſome of which we put to mercileſs + and needleſs Torment, to accommodat them for exquiſite and + uncommon <i>Epicuriſm</i>. There lies elſe no poſitive + Prohibition; Diſcrimination of Meats being <a href="#note-93" + name="noteref-93" class="noteref" id="noteref-93"><sup>93</sup></a>Condemn'd + as the <i>Doctrine of Devils</i>: Nor do Meats <i>commend us to God</i>. + One eats <i>quid vult</i> (of every thing:) another <i>Olera</i>, and of + <i>Sallets</i> only: But this is not my Buſineſs, further than + to ſhew how poſſible it is by ſo many Inſtances + and Examples, to live on wholſome Vegetables, both long and happily: + For ſo + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-94" name="noteref-94" class="noteref" id="noteref-94"><sup>94</sup></a><i>The</i> + Golden Age, <i>with this Proviſion bleſt,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Such a</i> Grand Sallet <i>made, and was a Feaſt.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>The</i> Demi-Gods <i>with Bodies large and ſound,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Commended then the Product of the Ground.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Luſt</i>, + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page100" name="page100"></a>[100]</span> + </p> + <p> + <i>Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurſt:</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Be their vile Names in Execration held,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Who with foul Glutt'ny firſt the World defil'd:</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Parent of Vice, and all Diſeaſes ſince,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>With ghaſtly Death ſprung up alone from thence.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Ah, from ſuch reeking, bloody Tables fly,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Which Death for our Deſtruction does ſupply.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>In</i> Health, <i>if</i> Sallet-Herbs <i>you can't endure;</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Sick, you'll deſire them; or for</i> Food, <i>or</i> Cure. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + As to the other part of the Controverſie, which concerns us, <span + class="Greek" title="aimatophagoi"> αιματοφαγοι</span>, + <!-- [Greek: aimatophagoi] --> and <i>Occidental Blood</i>-Eaters; ſome + Grave and Learn'd Men of late ſeem to ſcruple the preſent Uſage, + whilſt they ſee the Prohibition appearing, and to carry ſuch + a Face of <i>Antiquity</i>, <a href="#note-95" name="noteref-95" + class="noteref" id="noteref-95"><sup>95</sup></a><i>Scripture</i>, <a + href="#note-96" name="noteref-96" class="noteref" id="noteref-96"><sup>96</sup></a><i>Councils</i>, + <a href="#note-97" name="noteref-97" class="noteref" id="noteref-97"><sup>97</sup></a><i>Canons</i>, + <a href="#note-98" name="noteref-98" class="noteref" id="noteref-98"><sup>98</sup></a><i>Fathers</i>; + <i>Imperial Conſtitutions</i>, and <i>Univerſal Practice</i>, + unleſs it be <span class="pagenum"><a id="page101" name="page101"></a>[101]</span> + among us of theſe Tracts of <i>Europe</i>, whither, with other + Barbarities, that of eating the <i>Blood</i> and <i>Animal</i> Life of + Creatures firſt was brought; and by our Mixtures with the <i>Goths</i>, + <i>Vandals</i>, and other Spawn of Pagan <i>Scythians</i>; grown a Cuſtom, + and ſince which I am perſuaded more Blood has been ſhed + between <i>Chriſtians</i> than there ever was before the Water of the + Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it only to our + eating <i>Blood</i>; but ſometimes wonder how it hap'ned that ſo + ſtrict, ſo ſolemn and famous a <i>Sanction</i> not upon a + <i>Ceremonial Account</i>; but (as ſome affirm) a <i>Moral</i> and <i>Perpetual</i> + from <i>Noah</i>, to whom the Conceſſion of eating <i>Fleſh</i> + was granted, and that of Blood forbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) + and whilſt there alſo ſeems to lie fairer Proofs than for + moſt other Controverſies agitated among <i>Chriſtians</i>, + ſhould be ſo generally forgotten, and give place to ſo many + other impertinent Diſputes and Cavels about other ſuperſtitious + Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats. + </p> + <p> + As to the Reaſon of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty + excepted, (and that by <i>Galen</i>, and other experienc'd Phyſicians, + the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholſome, cauſing Indigeſtion + and Obſtructions) if a poſitive <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page102" name="page102"></a>[102]</span> Command of <i>Almighty God</i> + were not enough, it ſeems ſufficiently intimated; becauſe + <i>Blood</i> was the <i>Vehicle</i> of the <i>Life</i> and <i>Animal Soul</i> + of the Creature: For what other myſterious Cauſe, as haply its + being always dedicated to <i>Expiatory Sacrifices</i>, &c. it is not + for us to enquire. 'Tis ſaid, that <i>Juſtin Martyr</i> being + asked, why the <i>Chriſtians</i> of his time were permitted the + eating <i>Fleſh</i> and not the <i>Blood</i>? readily anſwer'd, + That God might diſtinguiſh them from Beaſts, which eat them + both together. 'Tis likewiſe urg'd, that by the <i>Apoſtolical + Synod</i> (when the reſt of the <i>Jewiſh</i> Ceremonies and + Types were aboliſh'd) this Prohibition was mention'd as a thing <a + href="#note-99" name="noteref-99" class="noteref" id="noteref-99"><sup>99</sup></a><i>neceſſary</i>, + and rank'd with <i>Idolatry</i>, which was not to be local or temporary; + but univerſally injoyn'd to converted Strangers and <i>Proſelytes</i>, + as well as <i>Jews</i>: Nor could the Scandal of neglecting to obſerve + it, concern them alone, after ſo many Ages as it was and ſtill + is in continual Uſe; and thoſe who tranſgreſs'd, + ſo ſeverely puniſh'd, as by an <i>Imperial Law</i> to be + ſcourg'd to <i>Blood</i> and Bone: Indeed, ſo terrible was the + Interdiction, that <i>Idolatry</i> excepted (which was alſo Moral and + perpetual) nothing in Scripture <span class="pagenum"><a id="page103" + name="page103"></a>[103]</span> ſeems to be more expreſs. In the + mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does not, they ſay, + extend to that <span class="Greek" title="akribeia"> ακρβεια</span> + <!-- [Greek: akribeia] --> of thoſe few diluted Drops of <i>Extravaſated + Blood</i>, which might happen to tinge the Juice and Gravy of the Fleſh + (which were indeed <i>to ſtrain at a Gnat</i>) but to thoſe who + devour the <i>Venal</i> and <i>Arterial Blood</i> ſeparately, and in + Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations and <i>Apician</i> + Tables. + </p> + <p> + But this, and all the reſt will, I fear, ſeem but <i>Oleribus + verba facere</i>, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of + preaching down <i>Hogs-Puddings</i>, and uſurp the Chair of <i>Rabby-Buſy</i>: + And therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the <i>Antediluvian</i> + Diet, we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and ſuch as <i>Curcellæus</i>, + who has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from <i>Tertullian, Hierom, + S. Chryſoſtom</i>, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, <i>Lyra</i>, + <i>Toſtatus</i>, <i>Dionyſius Carthuſianus</i>, <i>Pererius</i>, + amongſt the <i>Pontificians</i>; of <i>Peter Martyr</i>, <i>Zanchy</i>, + <i>Aretius</i>, <i>Jac. Capellus</i>, <i>Hiddiger</i>, <i>Cocceius</i>, <i>Bochartus</i>, + &c. amongſt the <i>Proteſtants</i>; and <i>inſtar + omnium</i>, by <i>Salmaſius</i>, <i>Grotius</i>, <i>Voſſius</i>, + <i>Blundel</i>: In a Word, by the Learn'd of both Perſuaſions, + favourable enough to theſe Opinions, <i>Cajetan</i> and <i>Calvin</i> + only excepted, <span class="pagenum"><a id="page104" name="page104"></a>[104]</span> + who hold, that as to <i>Abſtinence</i> from <i>Fleſh</i>, there + was no poſitive Command or Impoſition concerning it; but that + the Uſe of <i>Herbs</i> and <i>Fruit</i> was recommended rather for + Temperance ſake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which ſcore + I am inclin'd to believe that the ancient <span class="Greek" + title="theraôentai"> θεραωενται</span>, + <!-- [Greek: theraôentai] --> and other devout and contemplative + Sects, diſtinguiſh'd themſelves; whoſe Courſe of + Life we have at large deſcrib'd in <a href="#note-100" + name="noteref-100" class="noteref" id="noteref-100"><sup>100</sup></a><i>Philo</i> + (who liv'd and taught much in Gardens) with others of the Abſtemious + <i>Chriſtians</i>; among whom, <i>Clemens</i> brings in St. <i>Mark</i> + the <i>Evangeliſt</i> himſelf, <i>James</i> our Lord's Brother. + St. <i>John</i>, &c. and with ſeveral of the devout Sex, the + famous <i>Diaconeſſe Olympias</i>, mention'd by <i>Palladius</i> + (not to name the reſt) who abſtaining from Fleſh, betook + themſelves to <i>Herbs</i> and <i>Sallets</i> upon the Account of + Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; and concerning which the + incomparable <i>Grotius</i> declares ingenuouſly his Opinion to be + far from cenſuring, not only thoſe who forbear the eating <i>Fleſh</i> + and Blood, <i>Experimenti Cauſa</i>, and for Diſcipline ſake; + but ſuch as forbear <i>ex Opinione</i>, and (becauſe it has been + the ancient Cuſtom) provided they blam'd none who freely <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page105" name="page105"></a>[105]</span> us'd their + Liberty; and I think he's in the right. + </p> + <p> + But leaving this Controverſie (<i>ne nimium extra oleas</i>) it has + often been objected, that <i>Fruit</i>, and <i>Plants</i>, and all other + things, may ſince the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have + univerſally become <i>Effœte</i>, impair'd and diverted of thoſe + Nutritious and tranſcendent Vertues they were at firſt endow'd + withal: But as this is begging the Queſtion, and to which we have + already ſpoken; ſo all are not agreed that there is any, the leaſt + <a href="#note-101" name="noteref-101" class="noteref" id="noteref-101"><sup>101</sup></a><i>Decay + in Nature</i>, where equal Induſtry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true + indeed, that the <i>Ordo Foliatorum, Feuillantines</i> (a late Order of <i>Aſcetic + Nuns</i>) amongſt other Mortifications, made Trial upon the <i>Leaves</i> + of <i>Plants</i> alone, to which they would needs confine themſelves; + but were not able to go through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it + would be enquir'd whether they had not firſt, and from their very + Childhood, been fed and brought up with <i>Fleſh</i>, and better Suſtenance + till they enter'd the <i>Cloyſter</i>; and what the Vegetables and + the Preparation of them were allow'd by their Inſtitution? Wherefore + this is nothing to our Modern Uſe <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page106" name="page106"></a>[106]</span> of <i>Sallets</i>, or its Diſparagement. + In the mean time, that we ſtill think it not only poſſible, + but likely, and with no great Art or Charge (taking <i>Roots</i> and <i>Fruit</i> + into the Basket) ſubſtantially to maintain Mens Lives in Health + and Vigour: For to <i>this</i>, and leſs than this, we have the + Suffrage of the great <a href="#note-102" name="noteref-102" + class="noteref" id="noteref-102"><sup>102</sup></a><i>Hippocrates</i> himſelf; + who thinks, <i>ab initio etiam hominum</i> (as well as other Animals) <i>tali + victu uſum eſſe</i>, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an + inconſiderable Speculation, That ſince <i>all Fleſh is Graſs</i> + (not in a <i>Figurative</i>, but <i>Natural</i> and <i>Real</i> Senſe) + <i>Man</i> himſelf, who lives on <i>Fleſh</i>, and I think upon + no Earthly Animal whatſoever, but ſuch as feed on Graſs, is + nouriſh'd with them ſtill; and ſo becoming an <i>Incarnate + Herb</i>, and Innocent <i>Canibal</i>, may truly be ſaid to devour + himſelf. + </p> + <p> + We have ſaid nothing of the <i>Lotophagi</i>, and ſuch as (like + St. <i>John</i> the <i>Baptiſt</i>, and other religious <i>Aſcetics</i>) + were Feeders on the <i>Summities</i> and Tops of Plants: But as divers of + thoſe, and others we have mention'd, were much in times of Streights, + Perſecutions, and other Circumſtances, which did not in the leaſt + make it a Pretence, exempting them from Labour, and other Humane Offices, + by enſnaring Obligations <span class="pagenum"><a id="page107" + name="page107"></a>[107]</span> and vows (never to be uſeful to the + Publick, in whatever Exigency) ſo I cannot but take Notice of what a + Learned <i>Critic</i> ſpeaking of Mens neglecting plain and Eſſential + Duties, under Colour of exerciſing themſelves in a more ſublime + Courſe of Piety, and being Righteous above what is commanded (as thoſe + who ſeclude themſelves in Monaſteries) that they manifeſtly + diſcover exceſſive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour, + Impatience of Injuries; to which <i>add, Melancholy Plots and Machinations</i>; + and that he must be either ſtupid, or infected with the ſame + Vice himſelf, who admires this <span class="Greek" + title="etheloperiosothrêskeia"> εθελοπεριοσοθρησκεια</span>, + <!-- [Greek: etheloperiosothrêskeia] --> or thinks they were for + that Cauſe the more pleaſing to God. This being ſo, what + may we then think of ſuch Armies of <i>Hermits</i>, <i>Monks</i> and + <i>Friers</i>, who pretending to juſtifie a miſtaken Zeal and + meritorious Abſtinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Diſtinction + of Meats (which God without Diſtinction has made the moderate Uſe + of common and <a href="#note-103" name="noteref-103" class="noteref" + id="noteref-103"><sup>103</sup></a>indifferent amongſt <i>Chriſtians</i>) + but by other ſordid Uſages, and unneceſſary Hardſhips, + wilfully prejudice their Health and Conſtitution? and through a + ſingular manner of living, dark and <i>Saturnine</i>; whilſt + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page108" name="page108"></a>[108]</span> they + would ſeem to abdicate and forſake the World (in Imitation, as + they pretend, of the Ancient <i>Eremites</i>) take care to ſettle, + and build their warm and ſtately Neſts in the moſt Populous + Cities, and Places of Reſort; ambitious doubtleſs of the Peoples + Veneration and Opinion of an extraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying + the <i>Deſarts</i>, where there is indeed no uſe of them; and + flocking to the <i>Towns</i> and <i>Cities</i> where there is leſs, + indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the Emperour <i>Valentinian</i> + baniſhed them the Cities, and <i>Conſtantine Copronymus</i> + finding them ſeditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leave their Cells, + and live as did others. For of theſe, ſome there are who ſeldom + ſpeak, and therefore edifie none; ſleep little, and lie hard, + are clad naſtily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholſom) + and therefore benefit none; Not becauſe they might not, both for + their own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but becauſe they + will not; Cuſtom, and a prodigious <a href="#note-104" + name="noteref-104" class="noteref" id="noteref-104"><sup>104</sup></a>Sloth + accompanying it; which renders it ſo far from <i>Penance</i>, and the + Mortification pretended, that they know not how to live, or ſpend + their <span class="pagenum"><a id="page109" name="page109"></a>[109]</span> + Time otherwiſe. This, as I have often conſider'd, ſo was I + glad to find it juſtly perſtring'd, and taken notice of by a <a + href="#note-105" name="noteref-105" class="noteref" id="noteref-105"><sup>105</sup></a>Learned + Perſon, amongſt others of his uſeful Remarks abroad. + </p> + <p> + 'Theſe, ſays he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of + Life, plainly ſhew it to proceed more from a chagrin and moroſe + Humour, than from any true and ſerious Principle of ſound + Religion; which teaches Men to be uſeful in their Generations, ſociable + and communicative, unaffected, and by no means ſingular and fantaſtic + in Garb and Habit, as are theſe (forſooth) Fathers (as they + affect to be call'd) ſpending their Days in idle and fruitleſs + Forms, and tedious Repetitions; and thereby thinking to merit the Reward + of thoſe Ancient, and truly pious <i>Solitaries</i>, who, God knows, + were driven from their Countries and Repoſe, by the Incurſions + of barbarous Nations (whilſt theſe have no ſuch Cauſe) + and compell'd to Auſterities, not of their own chuſing and + making, but the publick Calamity; and to <i>labour</i> with their <i>Hands</i> + for their own, and others neceſſary Support, as well as with + with their <i>Prayers</i> and holy Lives, Examples <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page110" name="page110"></a>[110]</span> to all the World: And ſome + of theſe indeed (beſsides the <i>Solitaries</i> of the <i>Thebaid</i>, + who wrought for abundance of poor Chriſtians, ſick, and in + Captivity) I might bring in, as ſuch who deſerv'd to have their + Names preſerv'd; not for their rigorous Fare, and uncouth Diſguiſes; + but for teaching that the Grace of Temperance and other Vertues, conſiſted + in a cheerful, innocent, and profitable Conversation. + </p> + <p> + And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the <i>Hortulan Proviſion</i> + has been celebrated for, beſsides its Antiquity, Health and <i>Longævity</i> + of the <i>Antediluvians</i>; that Temperance, Frugality, Leiſure, Eaſe, + and innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no + leſs attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent <i>Botaniſt</i> + <a href="#note-106" name="noteref-106" class="noteref" id="noteref-106"><sup>106</sup></a>Mr. + <i>Ray</i>. + </p> + <p> + 'The Uſe of Plants (ſays he) is all our Life long of that univerſal + Importance and Concern, <span class="pagenum"><a id="page111" + name="page111"></a>[111]</span> that we can neither live nor ſubſiſt + in any Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be ſaid to live indeed + at all without them: whatſoever Food is neceſſary to ſuſtain + us, whatſoever contributes to delight and refreſh us, are ſupply'd + and brought forth out of that plentiful and abundant ſtore: and ah, + how much more innocent, ſweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with + theſe, than with all the reeking Fleſh of butcher'd and ſlaughter'd + Animals: Certainly Man by Nature was never made to be a <i>Carnivorous</i> + Creature; nor is he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and + pointed Teeth and crooked Claws, ſharp'ned to rend and tear: But with + gentle Hands to gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and + eat them: Nor do we ſo much as read the Uſe of <i>Fleſh</i> + for Food, was at all permitted him, till after the Univerſal Deluge, + <i>&c.</i> + </p> + <p> + To this might we add that tranſporting Conſideration, becoming + both our Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wiſe and + glorious Author of Nature, who has given to <i>Plants</i> ſuch aſtoniſhing + Properties; ſuch fiery Heat in ſome to warm and cheriſh, + ſuch Coolneſs in others to temper and refreſh, ſuch + pinguid Juice to nouriſh and feed the Body, ſuch quickening <i>Acids</i> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page112" name="page112"></a>[112]</span> to + compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles to court the Obedience of the + Palate, ſuch Vigour to renew and ſupport our natural Strength, + ſuch raviſhing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and delight us: + In ſhort, ſuch ſpirituous and active Force to animate and + revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had almoſt + ſaid Heavenly Capacity too. What ſhall we add more? Our Gardens + preſent us with them all; and whilſt the <i>Shambles</i> are + cover'd with Gore and Stench, our <i>Sallets</i> ſcape the Insults of + the Summer <i>Fly</i>, purifies and warms the Blood againſt Winter + Rage: Nor wants there Variety in more abundance, than any of the former + Ages could ſhew. + </p> + <p> + Survey we their <i>Bills of Fare</i>, and Numbers of Courſes ſerv'd + up by <i>Athenæus</i>, dreſt with all the Garniſh of <i>Nicander</i> + and other <i>Grecian</i> Wits: What has the <i>Roman Grand Sallet</i> + worth the naming? <i>Parat Convivium</i>, The Gueſts are nam'd + indeed, and we are told, + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + —— <a href="#note-107" name="noteref-107" class="noteref" + id="noteref-107"><sup>107</sup></a><i>Varias, quas habet hortus opes?</i> + </p> + <p> + How richly the Garden's ſtor'd: + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + <i>In quibus eſt Luctuca ſedens, & tonſile porrum, Nee + deeſt ructatrix Mentha, nec herba ſalax, &c.</i> + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page113" name="page113"></a>[113]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h3> + A Goodly Sallet! + </h3> + <p> + <i>Lettuce</i>, <i>Leeks</i>, <i>Mint</i>, <i>Rocket</i>, <i>Colewort-Tops</i>, + with <i>Oyl</i> and <i>Eggs</i>, and ſuch an <i>Hotch-Pot</i> + following (as the Cook in <i>Plautus</i> would deſervedly laugh at). + But how infinitely out-done in this Age of ours, by the Variety of ſo + many rare <i>Edules</i> unknown to the Ancients, that there's no room for + the Compariſon. And, for Magnificence, let the <i>Sallet</i> dreſt + by the Lady for an Entertainment made by <i>Jacobus Catſius</i> (deſcrib'd + by the Poet <a href="#note-108" name="noteref-108" class="noteref" + id="noteref-108"><sup>108</sup></a><i>Barlæus</i>) ſhew; not at + all yet out-doing what we every Day almoſt find at our <i>Lord + Mayor's Table</i>, and other great Perſons, Lovers of the Gardens; + that ſort of elegant Cookery being capable of ſuch wonderful + Variety, tho' not altogether wanting of old, if that be true which is + related to us of <a href="#note-109" name="noteref-109" class="noteref" + id="noteref-109"><sup>109</sup></a><i>Nicomedes</i> a certain King of + Bithynia, whoſe Cook made him a <i>Pilchard</i> (a Fiſh he + exceedingly long'd for) of a well diſſembl'd Turnip, carv'd in + its Shape, and dreſt with <i>Oyl</i>, <i>Salt</i>, and <i>Pepper</i>, + that ſo deceiv'd, and yet pleaſed the Prince, that he commended + it for the beſt Fiſh he had ever eaten. Nor does all this exceed + what every induſtrious <i>Gardiner</i> may innocently enjoy, as well + as the greateſt Potentate on Earth. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page114" name="page114"></a>[114]</span> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + Vitellius <i>his Table, to which every Day</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>All Courtiers did a conſtant Tribute pay,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Could nothing more delicious afford</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Than Nature's Liberality.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Help'd with a little Art and Induſtry,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Allows the meaneſt Gard'ners Board,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>The Wanton Taſte no Fiſh or Fowl can chuſe,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>For which the Grape or Melon ſhe would loſe.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Be lifted in the Glutton's Bill of Fare;</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Yet ſtill the</i> Sallet, <i>and the</i> Fruit <i>we ſee</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + So the Sweet <a href="#note-110" name="noteref-110" class="noteref" + id="noteref-110"><sup>110</sup></a><i>Poet</i>, whom I can never part with + for his Love to this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me. + </p> + <p> + Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance, with which the benign and + bountiful Author of Nature has ſtor'd the whole Terreſtrial + World, more with <i>Plants</i> and <i>Vegetables</i> than with any other + Proviſion whatſoever; and the Variety not only equal, but by far + exceeding the Pleaſure and Delight of Taſte (above all the Art + of the <i>Kitchen</i>, than ever <a href="#note-111" name="noteref-111" + class="noteref" id="noteref-111"><sup>111</sup></a><i>Apicius</i> <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page115" name="page115"></a>[115]</span> knew) + ſeems loudly to call, and kindly invite all her living Inhabitants + (none excepted) who are of gentle Nature, and moſt uſeful, to + the ſame <i>Hoſpitable</i> and Common-Board, which firſt + ſhe furniſh'd with <i>Plants</i> and <i>Fruit</i>, as to their + natural and genuine Paſture; nay, and of the moſt wild, and + ſavage too <i>ab origine</i>: As in <i>Paradiſe</i>, where, as + the <i>Evangelical</i> <a href="#note-112" name="noteref-112" + class="noteref" id="noteref-112"><sup>112</sup></a>Prophet adumbrating the + future Glory of the <i>Catholick Church</i>, (of which that happy <i>Garden</i> + was the <i>Antitype</i>) the <i>Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and furious + Lion, ſhould eat Graſs and Herbs together with the Ox</i>. But + after all, <i>latet anguis in herba</i>, there's a <i>Snake</i> in the Graſs; + Luxury, and Exceſs in our moſt innocent Fruitions. There was a + time indeed when the Garden furniſh'd Entertainments for the moſt + Renown'd Heroes, virtuous and excellent Perſons; till the Blood-thirſty + and Ambitious, over-running the Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd + the World, to tranſplant its Luxury to its new Miſtriſs, <i>Rome</i>. + Thoſe whom heretofore <a href="#note-113" name="noteref-113" + class="noteref" id="noteref-113"><sup>113</sup></a>two Acres of Land would + have ſatisfied, and <span class="pagenum"><a id="page116" + name="page116"></a>[116]</span> plentifully maintain'd; had afterwards + their very Kitchens almoſt as large as their firſt Territories: + Nor was that enough: Entire <a href="#note-114" name="noteref-114" + class="noteref" id="noteref-114"><sup>114</sup></a><i>Foreſts</i> and + <i>Parks</i>, <i>Warrens</i> and <i>Fiſh-Ponds</i>, and ample Lakes + to furniſh their Tables, ſo as Men could not live by one another + without Oppreſſion: Nay, and to ſhew how the beſt, and + moſt innocent things may be perverted; they chang'd thoſe frugal + and <i>inemptas Dapes</i> of their Anceſtors, to that Height and + Profuſion; that we read of <a href="#note-115" name="noteref-115" + class="noteref" id="noteref-115"><sup>115</sup></a><i>Edicts</i> and <i>Sumptuary + Laws</i>, enacted to reſtrain even the Pride and Exceſs of <i>Sallets</i>. + But ſo it was not when the <i>Peaſe-Field</i> ſpread a + Table for the Conquerors of the World, and their Grounds were cultivated + <i>Vomere laureato, & triumphali aratore</i>: The greateſt + Princes took the <i>Spade</i> and the <i>Plough-Staff</i> in the ſame + Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Nobleſt <a href="#note-116" + name="noteref-116" class="noteref" id="noteref-116"><sup>116</sup></a>Families + thought it no Diſhonour, to derive their Names from <i>Plants</i> and + <i>Sallet-Herbs</i>; They arriv'd, I ſay to that Pitch of ingroſſing + all that was but green, and could be vary'd by <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page117" name="page117"></a>[117]</span> the Cook (<i>Heu quam prodiga + ventris</i>!) that, as <i>Pliny</i> tells us (<i>non ſine pudore</i>, + not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a <i>Thiſtle</i> + to dreſs for his Supper; or what his hungry <a href="#note-117" + name="noteref-117" class="noteref" id="noteref-117"><sup>117</sup></a><i>Aſs</i> + would not touch, for fear of pricking his Lips. + </p> + <p> + Verily the Luxury of the Eaſt ruin'd the greateſt Monarchies; + firſt, the <i>Perſian</i>, then the <i>Grecian</i>, and + afterwards <i>Rome</i> her ſelf: By what Steps, ſee elegantly + describ'd in Old <a href="#note-118" name="noteref-118" class="noteref" + id="noteref-118"><sup>118</sup></a><i>Gratius</i> the <i>Faliſcian</i>, + deploring his own Age compar'd with the former: + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <i>O quantum, & quoties decoris fruſtrata paterni!</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>At qualis noſtris, quam ſimplex menſa Camillis!</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Qui tibi cultus erat poſt tot, ſerrane, triumphos?</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Ergo illi ex habitu, virtutiſq; indole priſcæ,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Impoſuere orbi Romam caput</i>:—— + </p> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + Neighb'ring Exceſſes being made thine own, + </p> + <p> + How art thou fall'n from thine old Renown! + </p> + <p> + But our <i>Camilli</i> did but plainly fare, + </p> + <p> + No Port did oft triumphant <i>Serran</i> bear: + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page118" name="page118"></a>[118]</span> + </p> + <p> + Therefore ſuch Hardſhip, and their Heart ſo great + </p> + <p> + Gave <i>Rome</i> to be the World's Imperial Seat. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + But as theſe were the Senſual and Voluptuous, who abus'd their + Plenty, ſpent their Fortunes and ſhortned their Lives by their + Debauches; ſo never did they taſte the Delicaces, and true + Satisfaction of a ſober Repaſt, and the infinite Conveniences of + what a well-ſtor'd <i>Garden</i> affords; ſo elegantly deſcrib'd + by the <a href="#note-119" name="noteref-119" class="noteref" + id="noteref-119"><sup>119</sup></a><i>Naturaliſt</i>, as coſting + neither Fuel nor Fire to boil, Pains or time to gather and prepare, <i>Res + expedita & parata ſemper</i>: All was ſo near at hand, + readily dreſt, and of ſo eaſie Digeſtion; as neither + to offend the Brain, or dull the Senſes; and in the greateſt + Dearth of Corn, a little Bread ſuffic'd. In all Events, + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <i>Panis ematur, Olus, Vini Sextarius adde</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Queis humana ſibi doleat natura negatis</i>. + </p> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + Bread, Wine and wholſome Sallets you may buy, + </p> + <p> + What Nature adds beſides is Luxury. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page119" name="page119"></a>[119]</span> + </p> + <p> + They could then make an honeſt Meal, and dine upon a <i>Sallet</i> + without ſo much as a Grain, of <i>Exotic Spice</i>; And the <i>Potagere</i> + was in ſuch Reputation, that ſhe who neglected her <i>Kitchen-Garden</i> + (for that was ſtill the Good-Woman's Province) was never reputed a + tolerable Huſ-wife: <i>Si veſpertinus ſubitò te + oppreſſerit hoſpes</i>, ſhe was never ſurpriz'd, + had all (as we ſaid) at hand, and could in a Trice ſet forth an + handſome <i>Sallet</i>: And if this was Happineſs, <i>Convictus + facilis ſine arte menſa</i> (as the <i>Poet</i> reckons) it was + here in Perfection. In a Word, ſo univerſal was the <i>Sallet</i>, + that the <a href="#note-120" name="noteref-120" class="noteref" + id="noteref-120"><sup>120</sup></a>Un-bloody Shambles (as <i>Pliny</i> + calls them) yielded the <a href="#note-121" name="noteref-121" + class="noteref" id="noteref-121"><sup>121</sup></a><i>Roman</i> State a + more conſiderable Cuſtom (when there was little more than honeſt + <i>Cabbage</i> and <i>Worts</i>) than almoſt any thing beſsides + brought to Market. + </p> + <p> + They ſpent not then ſo much precious time as afterwards they + did, gorging themſelves with <i>Fleſh</i> and <i>Fiſh</i>, + ſo as hardly able to riſe, without reeking and reeling from + Table. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page120" name="page120"></a>[120]</span> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-122" name="noteref-122" class="noteref" id="noteref-122"><sup>122</sup></a>——<i>Vides + ut pallidus omnis</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Cœna deſurgat dubia? quin corpus onuſtum</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Heſternis vitiis, animum quoque prægravat unà,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Atque affigit humo divinæ particulam auræ</i>. + </p> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + See but how pale they look, how wretchedly, + </p> + <p> + With Yeſterday's Surcharge diſturb'd they be! + </p> + <p> + Nor Body only ſuff'ring, but the Mind, + </p> + <p> + That nobler Part, dull'd and depreſs'd we find. + </p> + <p> + Drowſie and unapt for Buſineſs, and other nobler Parts + of Life. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + Time was before Men in thoſe golden Days: Their Spirits were brisk + and lively. + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + ——<i>Ubi dicto citius curata ſopori</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Membra dedit, Vegetus præſcripta ad munera ſurgit</i>. + </p> + </div> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + With ſhorter, but much ſweeter Sleep content, + </p> + <p> + Vigorous and freſh, about their Buſineſs went. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + And Men had their Wits about them; their Appetites were natural, their + Sleep <i>molli ſub arbore</i>, ſound, ſweet, and kindly: + That excellent Emperour <i>Tacitus</i> being us'd to ſay of <i>Lettuce</i>, + that he did <i>ſomnum ſe mercari</i> when <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page121" name="page121"></a>[121]</span> he eat of them, and call'd it + a ſumptuous Feaſt, with a <i>Sallet</i> and a ſingle <i>Pullet</i>, + which was uſually all the Fleſh-Meat that ſober Prince eat + of; whilſt <i>Maximinus</i> (a profeſs'd Enemy to <i>Sallet</i>) + is reported to have ſcarce been ſatisfied, with ſixty + Pounds of Fleſh, and Drink proportionable. + </p> + <p> + There was then alſo leſs expenſive Grandure, but far more + true State; when <i>Conſuls</i>, great Stateſmen (and ſuch + as atchiev'd the most renown'd Actions) ſup'd in their <i>Gardens</i>; + not under coſtly, gilded, and inlaid Roofs, but the ſpreading <i>Platan</i>; + and drank of the Chryſtal Brook, and by Temperance, and healthy + Frugality, maintain'd the Glory of <i>Sallets</i>, <i>Ah, quanta + innocentiore victu</i>! with what Content and Satisfaction! Nor, as we + ſaid, wanted there Variety; for ſo in the moſt bliſsful + Place, and innocent State of Nature, See how the firſt <i>Empreſs</i> + of the World <i>Regal's</i> her <i>Celeſtial</i> Gueſt: + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-123" name="noteref-123" class="noteref" id="noteref-123"><sup>123</sup></a><i>With + ſav'ry Fruit of Taſte to pleaſe</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>True Appetite, —— and brings</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Whatever Earth's all-bearing Mother yields</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>——Fruit of all kinds, in Coat</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Rough, or ſmooth-Rind, or bearded Husk, or Shell</i>. + </p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page122" name="page122"></a>[122]</span> + <p> + <i>Heaps with unſparing Hand: For Drink the Grape</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>She cruſhes, inoffenſive Mouſt, and Meaches</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>From many a Berry, and from ſweet Kernel preſt,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>She temper'd dulcid Creams</i>.—— + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + Then for the Board. + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + ——<i>Rais'd of a graſſy Turf</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>The Table was, and Moſſy Seats had round;</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>And on the ample Meaths from Side to Side,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>All Autumn pil'd: Ah Innocence,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>Deſerving Paradiſe</i>! + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + Thus, the <i>Hortulan</i> Proviſion of the <a href="#note-124" + name="noteref-124" class="noteref" id="noteref-124"><sup>124</sup></a><i>Golden + Age</i> fitted all <i>Places</i>, <i>Times</i> and <i>Perſons</i>; + and when Man is reſtor'd to that State again, it will be as it was in + the Beginning. + </p> + <p> + But now after all (and for Cloſe of all) Let none yet imagine, that + whilſt we juſtifie our preſent Subject through all the <i>Topics + of Panegyric</i>, we would in Favour of the <i>Sallet</i>, dreſt with + all its Pomp and Advantage turn Mankind to <i>Graſs</i> again; which + were ungratefully to neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page123" name="page123"></a>[123]</span> Health and + Comfort: But by theſe Noble Inſtances and Examples, to reproach + the <i>Luxury</i> of the preſent Age; and by ſhewing the + infinite Bleſſing and Effects of Temperance, and the Vertues + accompanying it; with how little Nature, and a <a href="#note-125" + name="noteref-125" class="noteref" id="noteref-125"><sup>125</sup></a>Civil + Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, and within a little + Compaſs, reſerving the reſt, to the nobler Parts of Life. + And thus of old, + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <i>Hoc erat in votis, modus agri non ita magnus, &c.</i> + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + He that was poſſeſs'd of a little Spot of Ground, and + well-cultivated <i>Garden</i>, with other moderate Circumſtances, had + <a href="#note-126" name="noteref-126" class="noteref" id="noteref-126"><sup>126</sup></a><i>Hæredium</i>. + All that a modeſt Man could well deſire. Then, + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <a href="#note-127" name="noteref-127" class="noteref" id="noteref-127"><sup>127</sup></a><i>Happy + the Man, who from Ambition freed,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>A little Garden, little Field does feed.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>The Field gives frugal Nature what's requird;</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>The Garden what's luxuriouſly deſir'd:</i> + </p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page124" name="page124"></a>[124]</span> + <p> + <i>The ſpecious Evils of an anxious Life,</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>He leaves to Fools to be their endleſs Strife</i>. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + O Fortunatos nimium bona ſi ſua norint Horticulos! + </p> + <p> + <i>FINIS</i> + </p> + <div style="height: 8em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page125" name="page125"></a>[125]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <hr /> + <h2> + <i>APPENDIX</i> + </h2> + <hr /> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + <span class="dropcap">T</span> <span class="smallcap"><i>ho'</i></span> <i>it + was far from our firſt Intention to charge this ſmall Volume and + Diſcourſe concerning</i> Crude Sallets, <i>with any of the + following Receipts: Yet having ſince received them from an</i> + Experienc'd Houſewife; <i>and that they may poſſibly be uſeful + to correct, preſerve and improve our</i> Acetaria, <i>we have allow'd + them Place as an</i> Appendant <i>Variety upon Occaſion: Nor account + we it the leaſt Diſhonour to our former Treatiſe, that we + kindly entertain'd them; ſince (beſides divers Learned</i> Phyſicians, + <i>and ſuch as have</i> ex profeſſo <i>written</i> de Re + Cibaria) <i>we have the Examples of many other</i> <a href="#note-128" + name="noteref-128" class="noteref" id="noteref-128"><sup>128</sup></a>Noble + <i>and</i> Illuſtrious <i>Perſons both among the</i> Ancient <i>and</i> + Modern. + </p> + <p> + 1. Artichoak. <i>Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin + Slices or Quarters; then fry them in freſh Butter with ſome Parſley, + till it is criſp, and the Slices tender; and ſo diſh them + with other freſh melted Butter</i>. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page126" name="page126"></a>[126]</span> + </p> + <p> + <i>How a</i> Poiverade <i>is made, and the Bottoms preſerv'd all the + Winter, See</i> Acetaria. p. <a href="#page5">5</a>, <a href="#page6">6</a>. + </p> + <p> + Aſhen-keys. <i>See</i> Pickle. + </p> + <p> + Aſparagus. <i>See</i> Pickle. + </p> + <table summary="" style="margin-left: 1em;"> + <tr> + <td> + Beets. + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 6em; width: 10px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="4"> + <i>See</i> Pickle. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + Broom. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + Buds. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + Capers. + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <p> + Carrot. <i>See</i> Pudding. + </p> + <p> + Champignon. <i>See</i> Mushroom. + </p> + <p> + 2. Cheſſnut. <i>Roaſted under the Embers, or dry fryed, + till they ſhell, and quit their Husks, may be ſlit; the Juice of + Orange ſqueezed on a Lump of hard Sugar diſſolv'd; to which + add ſome Claret Wine</i>. + </p> + <table summary="" style="margin-left: 1em;"> + <tr> + <td> + Collyflower. + </td> + <td rowspan="5"> + <img src="images/cr-brace.png" alt="" + style="height: 7.5em; width: 10px; float: left;" /> + </td> + <td rowspan="5"> + <i>See</i> Pickle. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + Cucumber. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + Elder flowers. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + Flowers. + </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> + Gilly-flowers. + </td> + </tr> + </table> + <p> + Herbs. <i>See</i> Pudding <i>and</i> Tart. + </p> + <p> + Limon. <i>See</i> Pickle. + </p> + <p> + 3. Muſhroom. <i>Chuſe the ſmall, firm and white Buttons</i>, + growing <i>upon ſweet Paſture</i> <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page127" name="page127"></a>[127]</span> <i>Grounds, neither under, or + about any Trees: ſtrip off the upper Skin, and pare away all the + black ſpungy Bottom part; then ſlice them in quarters, and caſt + them in Water a while to cleanſe: Then Boil them in freſh Water, + and a little ſweet Butter; (ſome boil them a quarter of an hour + firſt) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth, preſſing + out the Water, and whilſt hot, add the Butter; and then boiling a + full Hour (to exhauſt the Malignity) ſhift them in another clean + Water, with Butter, as before till they become ſufficiently tender. + Then being taken out, pour upon them as much ſtrong Mutton (or other) + Broth as will cover them, with ſix Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve + Cloves, as many Pepper-Corns, four ſmall young Onions, half an + Handful of Perſly bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an</i> + Anchovy, <i>Oyſters raw, or pickl'd; a little Salt, ſweet + Butter; and ſo let them ſtew</i>. <i>See</i> Acetar. p. <a + href="#page26">26</a>. + </p> + <p> + Another. + </p> + <p> + <i>Prepared, and cleans'd as above, and caſt into Fountain-Water, to + preſerve them from growing black; Boil them in freſh Water and + Salt; and whilſt on the Fire, caſt in the</i> Muſhrooms, <i>letting + them boil till they become tender: Then ſtew them leiſurely + between two Diſhes (the Water being drained from them) in a third + Part of White-Wine</i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page128" name="page128"></a>[128]</span> + <i>and Butter, a ſmall Bundle of ſweet Herbs at diſcretion. + To theſe add Broth as before, with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg</i>, + Anchovies (<i>one is ſufficient</i>) <i>Oysters</i>, &c. <i>a + ſmall Onion, with the green Stem chopt ſmall; and laſtly, + ſome Mutton-Gravy, rubbing the Diſh gently with a Clove of + Garlick, or ſome</i> Rocombo <i>Seeds in its ſtead. Some beat + the Yolk of a freſh Egg with Vinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>In</i> France <i>ſome (more compendiouſly being peel'd and + prepared) caſt them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs, + Spices, and an Onion they ſtew them in their own Juice, without any + other Water or Liquor at all; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion, + thicken it with a little Butter, and ſo eat them</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>In</i> Poiverade. + </p> + <p> + <i>The large Muſhrooms well cleanſed</i>, &c. <i>being cut + into quarters and ſtrewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil'd on the + Grid-iron, and eaten with freſh Butter</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>In</i> Powder. + </p> + <p> + <i>Being freſh gathered, cleans'd</i>, &c. <i>and cut in Pieces, + ſtew them in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a + Cloth: Then putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, ſet them into the</i> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page129" name="page129"></a>[129]</span> <i>Oven + after the Bread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reſerve + them in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you pleaſe. For the reſt, + ſee</i> Pickle. + </p> + <p> + 4. Muſtard. <i>Procure the beſt and weightieſt Seed: caſt + it into Water two or three times, till no more of the Husk ariſe: + Then taking out the ſound</i> (<i>which will ſink to the Bottom</i>) + <i>rub it very dry in warm courſe Cloths, ſhewing it alſo a + little to the Fire in a Diſh or Pan. Then ſtamp it as ſmall + as to paſs through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then ſlice ſome + Horſe-Radiſh and lay it to ſoak in ſtrong Vinegar, + with a ſmall Lump of hard Sugar</i> (<i>which ſome leave out</i>) + <i>to temper the Flower with, being drained from the Radiſh, and + ſo pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug, with an Onion, and keep it well ſtop'd + with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is the more cleanly: But this</i> Receit + <i>is improv'd, if inſtead of Vinegar, Water only, or the Broth of + powder'd Beef be made uſe of. And to ſome of this</i> Muſtard + <i>adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon, you have an + excellent Sauce to any ſort of Fleſh or Fiſh</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>Note, that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time, and to + keep freſh a competent while. What part of it does not paſs the</i> + Sarſe, <i>may be beaten again; and you may reſerve the</i> <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page130" name="page130"></a>[130]</span> <i>Flower + in a well cloſed Glaſs, and make freſh Muſtard when + you pleaſe</i>. <i>See</i> Acetaria, p. <a href="#page38">38</a>, <a + href="#page67">67</a>. + </p> + <p> + Naſturtium. <i>Vide</i> Pickle. + </p> + <p> + Orange. <i>See</i> Limon <i>in Pickle</i>. + </p> + <p> + 5. Parſnip. <i>Take the large Roots, boil them, and ſtrip the + Skin: Then ſlit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices; Flower and + fry them in freſh Butter till they look brown. The sauce is other + ſweet Butter melted. Some ſtrow Sugar and Cinamon upon them. + Thus you may accomodate other Roots</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>There is made a Maſh or Pomate of this Root, being boiled very + tender with a little freſh Cream; and being heated again, put to it + ſome Butter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; diſh it upon + Sippets; ſometimes a few</i> Corinths <i>are added</i>. + </p> + <p> + Peny-royal. <i>See</i> Pudding. + </p> + <p> + Pickles. + </p> + <p> + 6. <i>Pickl'd</i> + </p> + <p> + Artichoaks. <i>See</i> Acetaria, p. <a href="#page5">5</a>. + </p> + <p> + 7. Aſhen-keys. <i>Gather them young, and boil them in three or four + Waters to extract the Bitterneſs; and when they feel tender, prepare + a Syrup</i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page131" name="page131"></a>[131]</span> + <i>of ſharp White-Wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a little Water. Then boil + them on a very quick Fire, and they will become of a green Colour, fit to + be potted ſo ſoon as cold</i>. + </p> + <p> + 8. Aſparagus. <i>Break off the hard Ends, and put them in White-Wine + Vinegar and Salt, well covered with it; and ſo let them remain for + ſix Weeks: Then taking them out, boil the Liquor or Pickle, and + ſcum it carefully. If need be, renew the Vinegar and Salt; and when + 'tis cold, pot them up again. Thus may one keep them the whole Year</i>. + </p> + <p> + 9. Beans. <i>Take ſuch as are freſh, young, and approaching + their full Growth. Put them into a ſtrong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar + and Salt able to bear an Egg. Cover them very cloſe, and ſo will + they be preſerved twelve Months: But a Month before you uſe + them, take out what Quantity you think ſufficient for your ſpending + a quarter of a Year (for ſo long the ſecond Pickle will keep + them ſound) and boil them in a Skillet of freſh Water, till they + begin to look green, as they ſoon will do. Then placing them one by + one, (to drain upon a clean courſe Napkin) range them Row by Row in a</i> + Jarr, <i>and cover them with Vinegar, and what Spice you pleaſe; + ſome Weight being laid upon</i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page132" + name="page132"></a>[132]</span> <i>them to keep them under the Pickle. + Thus you may preſerve French-Beans</i>, Harico's, &c. <i>the + whole Year about</i>. + </p> + <p> + 10. Broom-Buds <i>and</i> Pods. <i>Make a ſtrong Pickle, as above; + ſtir it very well, till the Salt be quite diſſolved, + clearing off the Dregs and Scum. The next Day pour it from the Bottom; and + having rubbed the Buds dry pot them up in a Pickle-Glaſs, which + ſhould be frequently ſhaken, till they ſink under it, and + keep it well ſtopt and covered</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>Thus may you-pickle any other</i> Buds. <i>Or as follows:</i> + </p> + <p> + 11. <i>Of</i> Elder. <i>Take the largeſt</i> Buds, <i>and boil them + in a Skillet with Salt and Water, ſufficient only to ſcald them; + and ſo (being taken off the Fire) let them remain covered till Green; + and then pot them with Vinegar and Salt, which has had one Boil up to + cleanſe it</i>. + </p> + <p> + 12. Collyflowers. <i>Boil them till they fall in Pieces: Then with ſome + of the Stalk, and worſt of the Flower, boil it in a part of the + Liquor till pretty ſtrong: Then being taken off, ſtrain it; and + when ſettled, clear it from the Bottom. Then with</i> Dill, <i>Groſs + Pepper, a pretty Quantity of Salt, when cold, add as much Vinegar as will + make it</i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page133" name="page133"></a>[133]</span> + <i>ſharp, and pour all upon the</i> Collyflower; <i>and ſo as to + keep them from touching one another; which is prevented by putting Paper + cloſe to them</i>. + </p> + <p> + Cornelians <i>are pickled like</i> Olives. + </p> + <p> + 13. Cowſlips. <i>Pick very clean; to each Pound of Flowers allow + about one Pound of Loaf Sugar, and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar, which + boil to a Syrup, and cover it ſcalding-hot. Thus you may pickle</i> + Clove-gillyflowers, Elder, <i>and other Flowers, which being eaten alone, + make a very agreeable Salletine</i>. + </p> + <p> + 14. Cucumbers. <i>Take the</i> Gorkems, <i>or ſmaller</i> Cucumbers; + <i>put them into</i> Rape-Vinegar, <i>and boyl, and cover them ſo cloſe, + as none of the Vapour may iſſue forth; and alſo let them + ſtand till the next day: Then boil them in freſh White-Wine + Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, white Pepper, and a little Salt, + (according to diſcretion) ſtraining the former Liquor from the</i> + Cucumbers; <i>and ſo place them in a Jarr, or wide mouthed Glaſs, + laying a litle Dill and Fennel between each Rank; and covering all with + the freſh ſcalding-hot Pickle, keep all cloſe, and repeat + it daily, till you find them ſufficiently green</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>In the ſame ſort</i> Cucumbers <i>of the largeſt ſize, + being peel'd and cut into thin Slices, are very delicate</i>. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page134" name="page134"></a>[134]</span> + Another. + </p> + <p> + <i>Wiping them clean, put them in a very ſtrong Brine of Water and + Salt, to ſoak two or three Hours or longer, if you ſee Cause: + Then range them in the</i> Jarr <i>or</i> Barrellet <i>with Herbs and + Spice as uſual; and cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts + Beer-Vinegar, and one of White-Wine Vinegar: Let all be very well cloſed. + A Fortnight after ſcald the Pickle again, and repeat it, as above: + Thus they will keep longer, and from being ſo ſoon ſharp, + eat crimp and well taſted, tho' not altogether ſo green. You may + add a Walnut-Leaf, Hyſop, Coſtmary</i>, &c. <i>and as ſome + do, ſtrow on them a little Powder of</i> Roch-Allom, <i>which makes + them firm and eatable within a Month or ſix Weeks after</i>. + </p> + <p> + Mango <i>of</i> Cucumbers. + </p> + <p> + <i>Take the biggest</i> Cucumbers <i>(and moſt of the</i> Mango <i>ſize) + that look green: Open them on the Top or Side; and ſcooping out the + Seeds, ſupply their Place with a ſmall Clove of Garlick, or + ſome</i> Roccombo <i>Seeds. Then put them into an Earthen Glazed</i> + Jarr, <i>or wide-mouth'd Glaſs, with as much White-Wine Vinegar as + will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c. + and when off the Fire, as much Salt as will</i> <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page135" name="page135"></a>[135]</span> <i>make a gentle Brine; and + ſo pour all boyling-hot on the</i> Cucumbers, <i>covering them cloſe + till the next Day. Then put them with a little Dill, and Pickle into a + large Skillet; and giving them a Boyl or two, return them into the Veſſel + again: And when all is cold, add a good Spoonful of the beſt</i> Muſtard, + <i>keeping it from the Air, and ſo have you an excellent</i> Mango. + <i>When you have occaſion to take any out, make uſe of a Spoon, + and not your Fingers</i>. + </p> + <p> + Elder. <i>See</i> Buds. + </p> + <p> + Flowers. <i>See</i> Cowſlips, <i>and for other</i> Flowers. + </p> + <p> + 15. Limon. <i>Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon, Boil and ſhift + them in ſeveral Waters, till they are pretty tender: Then drain and + wipe them dry with a clean Cloth; and make a Pickle with a little + White-Wine Vinegar, one part to two of fair Water, and a little Sugar, + carefully ſcum'd. When all is cold, pour it on the peel'd Rind, and + cover it all cloſe in a convenient Glaſs Jarr. Some make a Syrup + of Vinegar, White-Wine and Sugar not too thick, and pour it on hot</i>. + </p> + <p> + 16. Melon. <i>The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as</i> + Cucumber, <i>make an excellent Sallet</i>. <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page136" name="page136"></a>[136]</span> + </p> + <p> + 17. Muſhrom. <i>Take a Quart of the beſt White-Wine Vinegar; as + much of White-Wine, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg a pretty Quantity, beaten + together: Let the Spice boil therein to the Conſumption of half; then + taken off, and being cold, pour the Liquour on the</i> Muſhroms; <i>but + leave out the boiled Spice, and caſt in of the ſame ſort of + Spice whole, the Nutmeg only ſlit in Quarters, with ſome + Limon-Peel, white Pepper; and if you pleaſe a whole raw Onion, which + take out again when it begins to periſh</i>. + </p> + <p> + Another. + </p> + <p> + <i>The</i> Muſhroms <i>peel'd</i>, &c. <i>throw them into Water, + and then into a Sauce-Pan, with ſome long Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a + quarter'd Nutmeg, with an Onion, Shallot, or Roccombo-Seed, and a little + Salt. Let them all boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire: Then + take out and cold, with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice, boil them + in ſome White-Wine; which (being cold) caſt upon the</i> Muſhroms, + <i>and fill up the Pot with the beſt White-Wine, a Bay-Leaf or two, + and an Handful of Salt: Then cover them with the Liquor; and if for long + keeping, pour Sallet-Oil over all, tho' they will be preſerved a Year + without it</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>They are ſometimes boil'd in Salt and Water, with ſome Milk, + and laying them in the Colender</i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page137" + name="page137"></a>[137]</span> <i>to drain, till cold, and wiped dry, caſt + them into the Pickle with the White-Wine, Vinegar and Salt, grated Nutmeg, + Ginger bruiſed, Cloves, Mace, white Pepper and Limon-Peel; pour the + Liquor on them cold without boiling</i>. + </p> + <p> + 18. Naſturtium Indicum. <i>Gather the Buds before they open to + flower; lay them in the Shade three or four Hours, and putting them into + an Earthen Glazed Veſſel, pour good Vinegar on them, and cover + it with a Board. Thus letting it ſtand for eight or ten Days: Then + being taken out, and gently preſs'd, caſt them into freſh + Vinegar, and let them ſo remain as long as before. Repeat this a + third time, and Barrel them up with Vinegar and a little Salt</i>. + </p> + <p> + Orange. <i>See</i> Limon. + </p> + <p> + 20. Potato. <i>The ſmall green Fruit (when about the ſize of the + Wild Cherry) being pickled, is an agreeable Sallet. But the Root being roaſted + under the Embers, or otherwiſe, open'd with a Knife, the Pulp is + butter'd in the Skin, of which it will take up a good Quantity, and is + ſeaſoned with a little Salt and Pepper. Some eat them with Sugar + together in the Skin, which has a pleaſant Crimpneſs. They are + alſo ſtew'd and bak'd in Pyes</i>, &c. <span class="pagenum"><a + id="page138" name="page138"></a>[138]</span> + </p> + <p> + 21. Purſelan. <i>Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan; then cover them + with Beer-Vinegar and Water, keeping them down with a competent Weight to + imbibe, three Days: Being taken out, put them into a Pot with as much + White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again; and cloſe the Lid with + Paſte to keep in the Steam: Then ſet them on the Fire for three + or four Hours, often ſhaking and ſtirring them: Then open the + Cover, and turn and remove thoſe Stalks which lie at the Bottom, to + the Top, and boil them as before, till they are all of a Colour. When all + is cold, pot them with freſh White-Wine Vinegar, and ſo you may + preſerve them the whole Year round</i>. + </p> + <p> + 22. Radiſh. <i>The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl'd, are a pretty + Sallet</i>. + </p> + <p> + 23. Sampier. <i>Let it be gathered about</i> Michaelmas <i>(or the Spring) + and put two or three hours into a Brine of Water and Salt; then into a + clean Tin'd Braſs Pot, with three parts of ſtrong White-Wine + Vinegar, and one part of Water and Salt, or as much as will cover the</i> + Sampier, <i>keeping the Vapour from iſſuing out, by paſting + down the Pot-lid, and ſo hang it over the Fire for half an Hour only. + Being taken off, let it remain covered till it be cold; and then put it up + into ſmall Barrels </i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page139" + name="page139"></a>[139]</span> <i> or Jars, with the Liquor, and ſome + freſh Vinegar, Water and Salt; and thus it will keep very green. If + you be near the Sea, that Water will ſupply the place of Brine. This + is the</i> Dover <i>Receit</i>. + </p> + <p> + 24. Walnuts. <i>Gather the Nuts young, before they begin to harden, but + not before the Kernel is pretty white: Steep them in as much Water as will + more than cover them. Then ſet them on the Fire, and when the water + boils, and grows black, pour it off, and ſupply it with freſh, + boiling it as before, and continuing to ſhift it till it become + clear, and the</i> Nuts <i>pretty tender: Then let them be put into clean + Spring Water for two Days, changing it as before with freſh, two or + three times within this ſpace: Then lay them to drain, and dry on a + clean courſe Cloth, and put them up in a Glaſs Jar, with a few + Walnut Leaves, Dill, Cloves, Pepper, whole Mace and Salt; ſtrowing + them under every Layer of Nuts, till the Veſſel be three + quarters full; and laſtly, repleniſhing it with the beſt + Vinegar, keep it well covered; and ſo they will be fit to ſpend + within three Months</i>. + </p> + <p> + To make a <i>Mango</i> with them. + </p> + <p> + <i>The green Nuts prepared as before, cover the Bottom of the Jar with + ſome Dill, an Handful of Bay-Salt</i>, &c. <i>and then a Bed of + Nuts; and ſo</i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page140" name="page140"></a>[140]</span> + ſtratum <i>upon</i> ſtratum, <i>as above, adding to the Spice + ſome</i> Roccombo-Seeds; <i>and filling the reſt of the Jar with + the beſt White-Wine Vinegar, mingled with the beſt Muſtard; + and to let them remain cloſe covered, during two or three Months + time: And thus have you a more agreeable</i> Mango <i>than what is brought + us from abroad; which you may uſe in any Sauce, and is of it ſelf + a rich Condiment</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>Thus far</i> Pickles. + </p> + <p> + 25. Potage Maigre. <i>Take four Quarts of Spring-Water, two or three + Onions ſtuck with ſome Cloves, two or three Slices of Limon + Peel, Salt, whole white Pepper, Mace, a Raze or two of Ginger, tied up in + a fine Cloth (Lawn or Tiffany) and make all boil for half an Hour; Then + having Spinage, Sorrel, white Beet-Chard, a little Cabbage, a few ſmall + Tops of Cives, waſh'd and pick'd clean, ſhred them well, and caſt + them into the Liquor, with a Pint of blue Peaſe boil'd ſoft and + ſtrain'd, with a Bunch of ſweet Herbs, the Top and Bottom of a</i> + French Roll; <i>and ſo ſuffer it to boil during three Hours; and + then diſh it with another ſmall</i> French Roll, <i>and Slices + about the Diſh: Some cut Bread in ſlices, and frying them brown + (being dried) put them into the Pottage juſt as it is going to be + eaten</i>. + </p> + <p> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page141" name="page141"></a>[141]</span> + </p> + <p> + <i>The ſame Herbs, clean waſh'd, broken and pulled aſunder + only, being put in a cloſe cover'd Pipkin, without any other Water or + Liquor, will ſtew in their own Juice and Moiſture. Some add an + whole Onion, which after a while ſhould be taken out, remembring to + ſeaſon it with Salt and Spice, and ſerve it up with Bread + and a Piece of freſh Butter</i>. + </p> + <p> + 26. Pudding <i>of</i> Carrot. <i>Pare off ſome of the Cruſt of + Manchet-Bread, and grate of half as much of the reſt as there is of + the Root, which muſt alſo be grated: Then take half a Pint of + freſh Cream or New Milk, half a Pound of freſh Butter, ſix + new laid Eggs (taking out three of the Whites) maſh and mingle them + well with the Cream and Butter: Then put in the grated Bread and Carrot, + with near half a Pound of Sugar; and a little Salt; ſome grated + Nutmeg and beaten Spice; and pour all into a convenient Diſh or Pan, + butter'd, to keep the Ingredients from ſticking and burning; ſet + it in a quick Oven for about an Hour, and ſo have you a Compoſition + for any</i> Root-Pudding. + </p> + <p> + 27. Penny-royal. <i>The Cream, Eggs, Spice</i>, &c. <i>as above, but + not ſo much Sugar and Salt: Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and + Marigold </i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page142" name="page142"></a>[142]</span> + <i> flower</i>, &c. <i>very well ſhred, and mingle with the + Cream, Eggs</i>, &c. <i>four spoonfuls of Sack; half a Pint more of + Cream, and almoſt a Pound of Beef-Suet chopt very ſmall, the + Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf, and ſtirring all well together, put it + into a Bag flower'd and tie it faſt. It will be boil'd within an + Hour: Or may be baked in the Pan like the</i> Carrot-Pudding. <i>The + ſauce is for both, a little Roſe-water, leſs Vinegar, with + Butter beaten together and poured on it ſweetned with the Sugar Caſter</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>Of this Plant diſcreetly dried, is made a moſt wholſom + and excellent Tea</i>. + </p> + <p> + 28. <i>Of</i> Spinage. <i>Take a ſufficient Quantity of</i> Spinach, + <i>ſtamp and ſtrain out the Juice; put to it grated Manchet, the + Yolk of as many Eggs as in the former Compoſition of the</i> + Carrot-Pudding; <i>ſome Marrow ſhred ſmall, Nutmeg, Sugar, + ſome Corinths, (if you pleaſe) a few Carroways, Roſe, or + Orange-flower Water (as you beſt like) to make it grateful. Mingle + all with a little boiled Cream; and ſet the Diſh or Pan in the + Oven, with a Garniſh of Puff-Paſte. It will require but very + moderate Baking. Thus have you Receits for</i> Herb Puddings. + </p> + <p> + 29. Skirret-Milk <i>Is made by boiling the Roots tender, and the Pulp + ſtrained out, put into Cream</i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page143" + name="page143"></a>[143]</span> <i>or new Milk boiled, with three or four + Yolks of Eggs, Sugar, large Mace and other Spice</i>, &c. <i>And thus + is compoſed any other Root-Milk</i>. <i>See</i> Acetar. p. <a + href="#page42">42</a>. + </p> + <p> + 30. Tanſie. <i>Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biſcuits, + put them into half a Pint of Cream; with twelve freſh Eggs, four of + the Whites caſt out, ſtrain the reſt, and break them with + two Spoonfuls of Roſe-water, a little Salt and Sugar, half a grated + Nutmeg: And when ready for the Pan, put almoſt a Pint of the Juice of + Spinach, Cleaver, Beets, Corn-Sallet, Green Corn, Violet, or Primroſe + tender Leaves, (for of any of theſe you may take your choice) with a + very ſmall Sprig of Tanſie, and let it be fried ſo as to + look green in the Diſh, with a Strew of Sugar and ſtore of the + Juice of Orange: ſome affect to have it fryed a little brown and criſp</i>. + </p> + <p> + 31. Tart <i>of</i> Herbs. <i>An</i> Herb-Tart <i>is made thus: Boil freſh + Cream or Milk, with a little grated Bread or</i> Naples-Biſcuit <i>(which + is better) to thicken it; a pretty Quantity of Chervile, Spinach, Beete + (or what other Herb you pleaſe) being firſt par-boil'd and + chop'd. Then add</i> Macaron, <i>or Almonds beaten to a Paſte, a + little ſweet Butter, the Yolk of five Eggs, three of the Whites + rejected</i>. <span class="pagenum"><a id="page144" name="page144"></a>[144]</span> + <i>To theſe ſome add Corinths plump'd in Milk, or boil'd + therein, Sugar, Spice at Diſcretion, and ſtirring it all + together over the Fire, bake it in the Tart-Pan</i>. + </p> + <p> + 32. Thiſtle. <i>Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the</i> + Milky-Thiſtle, <i>about</i> May, <i>when they are young and tender: + waſh and ſcrape them, and boil them in Water, with a little + Salt, till they are very ſoft, and ſo let them lie to drain. + They are eaten with freſh Butter melted not too thin, and is a + delicate and wholſome Diſh. Other Stalks of the ſame kind + may ſo be treated, as the</i> Bur, <i>being tender and diſarmed + of its Prickles</i>, &c. + </p> + <p> + 33. Trufles, <i>and other</i> Tubers, <i>and</i> Boleti, <i>are roaſted + whole in the</i> Embers; <i>then ſlic'd and ſtew'd in ſtrong + Broth with Spice</i>, &c. <i>as</i> Muſhroms <i>are. Vide</i> + Acetar. p. <a href="#page28">28</a>. + </p> + <p> + 34. Turnep. <i>Take their Stalks (when they begin to run up to ſeed) + as far as they will eaſily break downwards: Peel and tie them in + Bundles. Then boiling them as they do</i> Sparagus, <i>are to be eaten + with melted Butter. Laſtly</i>, + </p> + <p> + 35. Minc'd, <i>or</i> Sallet-all-sorts. <i>Take Almonds blanch'd in cold + Water, cut them round and thin, and ſo leave them in the</i> <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page145" name="page145"></a>[145]</span> <i>Water; + Then have pickl'd Cucumbers, Olives, Cornelians, Capers, Berberries, + Red-Beet, Buds of</i> Naſturtium, <i>Broom</i>, &c. <i>Purſlan-stalk, + Sampier, Aſh-Keys, Walnuts, Muſhrooms (and almoſt of all + the pickl'd Furniture) with Raiſins of the Sun ſton'd, Citron + and Orange-Peel, Corinths (well cleanſed and dried)</i> &c. <i>mince + them ſeverally (except the Corinths) or all together; and ſtrew + them over with any Candy'd Flowers, and ſo diſpose of them in + the ſame Diſh both mixt, and by themſelves. To theſe + add roaſted</i> Maroons, Piſtachios, Pine-Kernels, <i>and of + Almonds four times as much as of the reſt, with ſome Roſe-water. + Here alſo come in the Pickled Flowers and Vinegar in little</i> China + <i>Diſhes. And thus have you an Univerſal</i> Winter-Sallet, <i>or + an</i> All ſort <i>in Compendium, fitted for a City Feaſt, and + diſtinguiſhed from the</i> Grand-Sallet: <i>which ſhou'd + conſiſt of the Green blanch'd and unpickled, under a ſtately</i> + Pennaſh <i>of</i> Sellery, <i>adorn'd with Buds and Flowers</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>And thus have we preſented you a Taſte of our</i> Engliſh + Garden Houſewifry <i>in the matter of</i> Sallets: <i>And though + ſome of them may be Vulgar, (as are moſt of the beſt + things;) Yet ſhe was willing to impart them, to ſhew the Plenty, + Riches and Variety of the</i> Sallet-Garden: <i>And to juſtifie</i> + <span class="pagenum"><a id="page146" name="page146"></a>[146]</span> <i>what + has been aſſerted of the Poſſibility of living (not + unhappily) on</i> Herbs <i>and</i> Plants, <i>according to</i> Original <i>and</i> + Divine Inſtitution, <i>improved by Time and long Experience. And if + we have admitted</i> Muſhroms <i>among the reſt (contrary to our + Intention, and for Reaſons given</i>, Acet. p. <a href="#page43">43</a>.) + <i>ſince many will by no means abandon them, we have endeavoured to + preſerve them from thoſe pernicious Effects which are attributed + to, and really in them: We cannot tell indeed whether they were ſo + treated and accommodated for the moſt Luxurious of the</i> Cæſarean + Tables, <i>when that Monarchy was in its higheſt Strain of</i> + Epicuriſm, <i>and ingroſs'd this</i> Haugout <i>for their ſecond + Courſe; whilſt this we know, that 'tis but what</i> Nature <i>affords + all her Vagabonds under every Hedge</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>And now, that our</i> Sallets <i>may not want a Glaſs of generous + Wine of the ſame Growth with the reſt of the Garden to recommend + it, let us have your Opinion of the following</i>. + </p> + <p> + Cowſlip-Wine. <i>To every Gallon of Water put two Pounds of</i> + Sugar; <i>boil it an Hour, and ſet it to cool: Then ſpread a + good brown</i> Toaſt <i>on both Sides with Yeaſt: But before you + make uſe of it, beat ſome Syrup of</i> Citron <i>with it, an + Ounce and half of Syrup to each Gallon of Liquor: Then put in the</i> Toaſt + <i>whilſt hot, to aſſiſt its</i> Fermentation, <span + class="pagenum"><a id="page147" name="page147"></a>[147]</span> <i>which + will ceaſe in two Days; during which time caſt in the</i> Cowſlip-Flowers + <i>(a little bruiſed, but not much ſtamp'd) to the Quantity of + half a Buſhel to ten Gallons (or rather three Pecks) four</i> Limons + <i>ſlic'd, with the Rinds and all. Laſtly, one Pottle of</i> + White <i>or</i> Rheniſh Wine; <i>and then after two Days, tun it up + in a ſweet Cask. Some leave out all the Syrup</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>And here, before we conclude, ſince there is nothing of more conſtant + Uſe than good Vinegar; or that has ſo near an Affinity to all + our</i> Acetaria, <i>we think it not amiſs to add the following (much + approved) Receit</i>. + </p> + <p> + Vinegar. <i>To every Gallon of Spring Water let there be allowed three + Pounds of</i> Malaga-Raiſins: <i>Put them in an Earthen Jarr, and + place them where they may have the hotteſt Sun, from</i> May till + Michaelmas: <i>Then preſſing them well, Tun the Liquor up in a + very ſtrong Iron-Hooped Veſſel to prevent its burſting. + It will appear very thick and muddy when newly preſs'd, but will + refine in the Veſſel, and be as clear as Wine. Thus let it + remain untouched for three Months, before it be drawn off, and it will + prove Excellent</i> Vinegar. + </p> + <p> + Butter. Butter <i>being likewiſe ſo frequent and neceſſary + an Ingredient to divers of the foregoing</i> Appendants: <i>It ſhould + be carefully melted, that it turn not to an Oil; which is prevented by + melting </i> <span class="pagenum"><a id="page148" name="page148"></a>[148]</span> + <i> it leiſurely, with a little fair Water at the Bottom of the Diſh + or Pan; and by continual ſhaking and ſtirring, kept from boiling + or over-heating, which makes it rank</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>Other rare and exquiſite</i> Liquors <i>and Teas (Products of our</i> + Gardens <i>only) we might ſuper-add, which we leave to our</i> Lady + Houſewives, <i>whoſe Province indeed all this while it is</i>. + </p> + <p> + <i>THE END</i> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <hr /> + <h2> + The Table + </h2> + <hr /> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Abſtemious Perſons who eat no Fleſh, nor were under + Vows</i>, <a href="#page104">104</a> + </li> + <li> + Abſterſives, <a href="#page42">42</a> + </li> + <li> + ACETARIA, <i>Criticiſms on the Word, how they differ from Olera, + &c.</i>, <a href="#page1">1</a> + </li> + <li> + Achilles, <a href="#page77">77</a> + </li> + <li> + Acids, <a href="#page63">63</a> + </li> + <li> + Adam <i>and</i> Eve <i>lived on Vegetables and Plants</i>, <a + href="#page94">94</a> + </li> + <li> + Africans <i>eat</i> Capſicum Indicum, <a href="#page34">34</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Aged Perſons</i>, <a href="#page44">44</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Sallet-Eaters</i>, <a href="#page80">80</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Agues</i>, <a href="#page81">81</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Air</i>, <a href="#page80">80</a> + </li> + <li> + Alliaria, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Ale</i>, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + Alleluja, <a href="#page47">47</a> + </li> + <li> + Alexanders, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + Allium, <a href="#page18">18</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Altar dedicated to Lettuce</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + Anagallis, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + Annæus Serenus <i>poiſoned by Muſhroms</i>, <a + href="#page27">27</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Anatomy, Comparative</i>, <a href="#page90">90</a> + </li> + <li> + Antecœnia, <a href="#page74">74</a> + </li> + <li> + Antediluvians <i>eat no Fleſh for</i> 2000 <i>years</i>, <a + href="#page80">80</a> + </li> + <li> + Aparine, <a href="#page12">12</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Aperitives</i>, <a href="#page10">10</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Appetite</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>How to subdue</i>, <a href="#page98">98</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Apician <i>Luxury</i>, <a href="#page103">103</a> + </li> + <li> + Apium, <a href="#page35">35</a>; + <ul> + <li> + Italicum, <a href="#page41">41</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Aromatics</i>, <a href="#page13">13</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Artichoaks</i>, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + Arum Theophraſti, <a href="#page48">48</a> + </li> + <li> + Aſcalonia, <a href="#page41">41</a> + </li> + <li> + Aſcetics, <a href="#page106">106</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Aſparagus</i>, <a href="#page43">43</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>preferable to the</i> Dutch, <a href="#page43">43</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>how to cover in Winter without Dung</i>, <a href="#page87">87</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Aſphodel, <a href="#page23">23</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Aſtringents</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Aſthmatical</i>, <a href="#page31">31</a> + </li> + <li> + Aſſa fœtida, <a href="#page52">52</a> + </li> + <li> + Atriplex, <a href="#page32">32</a> + </li> + <li> + Auguſtus, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Autumn</i>, <a href="#page71">71</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + B. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Barlæus's <i>Deſcription Poetic of a Sallet Collation</i>, <a + href="#page113">113</a> <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </li> + <li> + <i>Baſil</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Baulm</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Beere</i>, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Beet</i>, 7, <a href="#page79">79</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Benzoin</i>, <a href="#page51">51</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Bile</i>, <a href="#page36">36</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Blite</i>, <a href="#page8">8</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Blood to purifie</i>, <a href="#page8">8</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Eating it prohibited</i>, <a href="#page100">100</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Boletus, <a href="#page26">26</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Books of</i> Botany, <a href="#page54">54</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>to be read with caution where they write of Edule Plants</i>, <a + href="#page54">ib.</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Borrage</i>, <a href="#page8">8</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Bowels</i>, <a href="#page58">58</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Brain</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a>, <a href="#page38">38</a> + </li> + <li> + Bramins, <a href="#page97">97</a> + </li> + <li> + Brandy <i>and Exotic Liquors pernicious</i>, <a href="#page93">93</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Bread and Sallet ſufficient for Life</i>, <a href="#page2">2</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Made of Turnips</i>, <a href="#page46">46</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Breaſt</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + Broccoli, <a href="#page10">10</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Brook lime</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Broth</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Brute Animals much healthier than Men, why</i>, <a href="#page91">91</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Buds</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Buglos</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + Bulbo Caſtanum, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + Buphthalmum, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Burnet</i>, <a href="#page35">35</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Butter</i>, <a href="#page64">64</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + C. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Cabbage, <a href="#page10">10</a> + </li> + <li> + Capſicum Indicum, <a href="#page34">34</a> + </li> + <li> + Cardialgia, <a href="#page34">34</a> + </li> + <li> + Carduus Sativus, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + Cardon, Spaniſh, <a href="#page6">6</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Carnivorous Animals</i>, <a href="#page89">89</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Carrots</i>, <a href="#page11">11</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cattel reliſh of their Paſture and Food</i>, <a + href="#page86">86</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Vide Fowl</i>. + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cauly flower</i>, <a href="#page11">11</a> + </li> + <li> + Cepæ, <a href="#page31">31</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cephalics</i>, <a href="#page30">30</a> + </li> + <li> + Chæriphyllum, <a href="#page12">12</a> + </li> + <li> + Champignons, <a href="#page26">26</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Vide</i> Muſhroms. + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Chaſtity</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Children chuſe to eat Fruit before other Meat</i>, <a + href="#page94">94</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Chriſtians abſtaining from eating Fleſh</i>, <a + href="#page97">97</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Choler</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Church Catholics Future Glory predicted</i>, <a href="#page115">115</a> + </li> + <li> + Cibarium, <a href="#page63">63</a> + </li> + <li> + Cicuta, <a href="#page48">48</a> + </li> + <li> + Cinara, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Clary</i>, <a href="#page12">12</a> + </li> + <li> + Claudius Cæſar, <a href="#page27">27</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Claver</i>, <a href="#page12">12</a> + </li> + <li> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>Cleanſing</i>, <a + href="#page44">44</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Climate</i>, <a href="#page80">80</a> + </li> + <li> + Cochlearia, <a href="#page41">41</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>vide Scurvy-Graſs</i>. + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cooks</i>, <a href="#page77">77</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Phyſicians to Emperors and Popes</i>, <a href="#page55">55</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>vide</i> Heroes. + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Collation of Sallet, Extemporary</i>, <a href="#page73">73</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cold</i>, <a href="#page16">16</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cooling</i>, <a href="#page33">33</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Complexion</i>, <a href="#page84">84</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Compoſing, and Compoſer of Sallets</i>, <a href="#page71">71</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Compotation</i>, <a href="#page74">74</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Conceſſion to eat Fleſh, ſince which Mens Lives + ſhortned</i>, <a href="#page97">97</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Concoction</i>, <a href="#page18">18</a> + </li> + <li> + Condiments, <a href="#page64">64</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>vide</i> Sauce. + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Conſcience</i>, <a href="#page98">98</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Conſent; vide Harmony</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Conſtitution of Body</i>, <a href="#page57">57</a> + </li> + <li> + Conſuls <i>and Great Perſons ſupt in their Garden</i>, <a + href="#page121">121</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Contemplative Perſons</i>, <a href="#page104">104</a> + </li> + <li> + Convictus Facilis, <a href="#page117">117</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cordials</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Coriander</i>, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Corrago</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Correctives</i>, <a href="#page82">82</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Corn, what Ground moſt proper for it</i>, <a href="#page86">86</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Corn Sallet</i>, <a href="#page12">12</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Corroboratives</i>, <a href="#page52">52</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Corpulency</i>, <a href="#page82">82</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cowſlips</i>, <a href="#page13">13</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Creſſes</i>, <a href="#page13">13</a> + </li> + <li> + Crithmum, <a href="#page40">40</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Crudities</i>, <a href="#page26">26</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cruelty in butchering Animals for Food</i>, <a href="#page99">99</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cucumber</i>, <a href="#page13">13</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Culture, its Effects</i>, <a href="#page42">42</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Cuſtom</i>, <a href="#page81">81</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Of Sallet Herbs, how great a Revenue to</i> Rome, <a + href="#page119">119</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + D. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Daffodil</i>, <a href="#page48">48</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Daiſie</i>, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Dandelion</i>, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + Dapes Inemptæ, <a href="#page116">116</a> + </li> + <li> + Dauci, <a href="#page11">11</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Decay in Nature, none</i>, <a href="#page106">106</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Decoction</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Deobſtructions</i>, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + Deorum filii, <a href="#page26">26</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Diſtinction of Meats abrogated</i>, <a href="#page94">94</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Deterſives</i>, <a href="#page8">8</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Diſhes for Sallets</i>, <a href="#page69">69</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Diſſimilar Parts of Animals</i> <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + <i> require Variety of Food</i>, <a href="#page89">89</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Diuretics</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Dock</i>, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Dogs Mercury</i>, <a href="#page54">54</a> + </li> + <li> + Domitian <i>Emp.</i>, <a href="#page74">74</a> + </li> + <li> + Draco herba, <a href="#page45">45</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Dreſſing of Sallets</i>, vide <i>Sallet</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Dry Plants</i>, <a href="#page17">17</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Dung</i>, <a href="#page85">85</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Sallets raiſ'd on it undigeſted</i>, <a href="#page86">86</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + E. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Earth, <i>whether much altered ſince the Flood</i>, <a + href="#page81">81</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>about great Cities, produces rank and unwholſome Sallets</i>, + <a href="#page85">85</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Earth-Nuts</i>, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Eggs</i>, <a href="#page68">68</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Elder</i>, <a href="#page16">16</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Emollients</i>, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Endive</i>, <a href="#page16">16</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Epicuriſm</i>, <a href="#page99">99</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Eremit's</i>, vide <i>Monks</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Eruca</i>, <a href="#page39">39</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Eructation</i>, <a href="#page38">38</a> + </li> + <li> + Eruditæ gulæ, <a href="#page77">77</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Eſcalons</i>, <a href="#page31">31</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Eternity</i>, vide <i>Patriarchs</i>. + </li> + <li> + Eupeptics, <a href="#page58">58</a> + </li> + <li> + Euphroſyne, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Exceſs</i>, <a href="#page72">72</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Exhilarate</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Exotic Drinks and Sauces dangerous</i>, <a href="#page90">90</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Experience</i>, <a href="#page83">83</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Eyes</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a>, vide <i>Sight</i>. + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + F. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Fabrorum prandia, <a href="#page8">8</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Fainting</i>, <a href="#page47">47</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Families enobl'd by names of Sallet Plants</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Farcings</i>, <a href="#page35">35</a> + </li> + <li> + Faſcicule, <a href="#page70">70</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Fevers</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Felicity of the Hortulan Life</i>, <a href="#page122">122</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Fennel</i>, <a href="#page17">17</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Flatulents</i>, <a href="#page33">33</a> + </li> + <li> + Fleſh, <i>none eaten during 2000 years. Fleſh eaters not + ſo ingenious as Sallet eaters: unapt for Study and Buſſineſs; + ſhortens Life; how all Fleſh is Graſs</i>, <a + href="#page94">94</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Flowers</i>, <a href="#page17">17</a> + </li> + <li> + Foliatorum ordo, <a href="#page105">105</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Fowl reliſh of their Food</i>, <a href="#page86">86</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Food. No Neceſſity of different Food</i>, <a href="#page90">90</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>The simplest beſt</i>, <a href="#page92">92</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Man's original Food</i>, <a href="#page93">93</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>Fools unfit to gather Sallets + contrary to the</i> Italian <i>Proverb</i>, <a href="#page61">61</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Friers</i>, vide <i>Monks</i>. + </li> + <li> + Frigidæ Mensæ, <a href="#page82">82</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Frugality of the ancient</i> Romans, <i>&c.</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Fruit</i>, <a href="#page75">75</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>not reckon'd among Sallets</i>, <a href="#page76">76</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>not degenerated ſince the Flood, where induſtry is uſ'd</i>, + <a href="#page104">104</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Fugaces fructus, <a href="#page74">74</a> + </li> + <li> + Fungus, <a href="#page26">26</a>, vide <i>Muſhroms</i>. + </li> + <li> + Fungus reticularis, <a href="#page27">27</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Furniture and Ingredients of Sallets</i>, <a href="#page61">61</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + G. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Galen <i>Lover of Lettuce</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Gardiner's happy Life</i>, <a href="#page113">113</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Entertain Heroes and great Perſons</i>, <a href="#page115">115</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Garlick</i>, <a href="#page18">18</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Garniſhing</i>, <a href="#page8">8</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Gatherers of Sallets ſhould be ſkilful Herbariſts</i>, + <a href="#page71">71</a> + </li> + <li> + Gemmæ, <a href="#page9">9</a>, <i>vide</i> Buds. + </li> + <li> + <i>Gerkems</i>, <a href="#page15">15</a>, <i>vide Cucumber</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Ginny-Pepper</i>, <a href="#page78">78</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Goats beard</i>, <a href="#page18">18</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Golden Age</i>, <a href="#page99">99</a> + </li> + <li> + Gordian <i>Emp.</i>, <a href="#page82">82</a> + </li> + <li> + Gramen Amygdaloſum, <a href="#page48">48</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Grand Sallet</i>, <a href="#page42">42</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Graſs</i>, <a href="#page82">82</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Grillus</i>, <a href="#page56">56</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Gymnoſophiſts</i>, <a href="#page97">97</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + H. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Habits difficult to overcome, applied to Fleſh-Eaters</i>, <a + href="#page98">98</a> + </li> + <li> + Hæredium <i>of old</i>, <a href="#page123">123</a> + </li> + <li> + Halimus, <a href="#page36">36</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Harmony in mixing Sallet Ingredients as Notes in Muſick</i>, <a + href="#page60">60</a> + </li> + <li> + Hautgout, <a href="#page77">77</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Head</i>, <a href="#page40">40</a>, <i>vide Cephalicks</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Heart</i>, <a href="#page42">42</a>, <i>vide Cordials</i>. + </li> + <li> + Heliotrop, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Hemlock</i>, <a href="#page54">54</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Herbaceous Animals know by inſtinct what Herbs are proper for + them better than Men</i>, <a href="#page56">56</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>and excel them in moſt of the ſenſes</i>, <a + href="#page56">ib.</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Herbals</i>, vide <i>Books</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Herbs, crude, whether wholſome</i>, <a href="#page80">80</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>What proper for Sallets</i>, <a href="#page70">70</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Their Qualities and Vertues to be examined</i>, <a href="#page82">82</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Herby Diet most Natural</i>, <a href="#page98">98</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> Heroes <i>of old ſkill'd in + Cookery</i>, <a href="#page77">77</a> + </li> + <li> + Hippocrates <i>condemns Radiſh</i>, <a href="#page37">37</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>That Men need only Vegetables</i>, <a href="#page106">106</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Hippoſelinum, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + Holyhoc, <a href="#page24">24</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Honey</i>, <a href="#page14">14</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Hops</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + Horarii fructus, <a href="#page74">74</a> + </li> + <li> + Horminum, <a href="#page12">12</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Horſes not ſo diſeaſed as Men</i>, <a + href="#page91">91</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Recompenſ'd by ſome Maſters for long Service</i>, + <a href="#page91">91</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Horſe-Radiſh</i>, <a href="#page38">38</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Hortulan Proviſion moſt plentiful of any, advantageous, + univerſal, natural, &c.</i>, <a href="#page110">110</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Hot Plants</i>, <a href="#page8">8</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Hot Beds, how unwholſome for Salleting</i>, <a href="#page85">85</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Houſe-wife had charge of the Kitchin Garden</i>, <a + href="#page119">119</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Humours</i>, <a href="#page57">57</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Hypochondria</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Hyſop</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + I. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Ilander</i>, <a href="#page58">58</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>obnoxious to the Scorbute</i>, <a href="#page58">ib.</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Indigeſtion</i>, <a href="#page38">38</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Ingredients</i>, <a href="#page4">4</a>, vide <i>Furniture</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Inſects</i>, <a href="#page28">28</a> + </li> + <li> + Intuba Sativa, <a href="#page16">16</a> + </li> + <li> + Iſrælites <i>Love of Onions</i>, <a href="#page32">32</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + J. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Jack-by-the-Hedge</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + John <i>the</i> Baptiſt, <a href="#page106">106</a> + </li> + <li> + Juſtin Martyr <i>concerning the eating of Blood</i>, <a + href="#page101">101</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + K. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Knife for cutting Sallets</i>, <a href="#page68">68</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Kitchen Garden</i>, <a href="#page119">119</a>, vide Potagere. + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + L. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Lapathum, <a href="#page24">24</a> + </li> + <li> + Laſerpitium, <a href="#page51">51</a> + </li> + <li> + Latet anguis in herba, <a href="#page115">115</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Laws</i>, <a href="#page116">116</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Laxatives</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Leeks</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + Legumena, <a href="#page73">73</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Lettuce</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Limon</i>, <a href="#page23">23</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Liver</i>, <a href="#page13">13</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Longævity</i>, <a href="#page81">81</a> + </li> + <li> + Lotophagi, <a href="#page106">106</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Lungs</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + Lupulus, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Luxury</i>, <a href="#page81">81</a> + </li> + <li> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> Lyſimachia Seliquoſa + glabra, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + <li> + Lyſter, <i>Dr.</i>, <a href="#page56">56</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + M. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Macarons, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + <li> + Majoran, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Mallows</i>, <a href="#page23">23</a> + </li> + <li> + Malvæ folium sanctiſſimum, <a href="#page23">ib.</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Man before the Fall knew the Vertues of Plants</i>, <a href="#page83">83</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Unbecoming his Dignity to butcher the innocent Animal for Food</i>, + <a href="#page94">94</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Not by nature carnivorous</i>, <a href="#page111">111</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Not lapſed ſo ſoon as generally thought</i>, <a + href="#page95">95</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Marygold</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Maſculine Vigour</i>, <a href="#page52">52</a> + </li> + <li> + Materia medica, <a href="#page65">65</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Materials for Sallets</i>, vide <i>Furniture</i>. + </li> + <li> + Maximinus <i>an egregious Glutton, Sallet-hater</i>, <a href="#page121">121</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Meats commend not to God</i>, <a href="#page99">99</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Medals of</i> Battus <i>with</i> Silphium <i>on the reverſe</i>, + <a href="#page51">51</a> + </li> + <li> + Meliſſa, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Melon, how cultivated by the Ancients</i>, <a href="#page24">24</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Memory to aſſiſt</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Mints</i>, <a href="#page25">25</a> + </li> + <li> + Mithacus, <i>a Culinary Philoſopher</i>, <a href="#page77">77</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Mixture</i>, <a href="#page57">57</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Moiſt</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Monks and Friers perſtring'd for their idle unprofitable Life</i>, + <a href="#page107">107</a> & <i>ſeqq.</i> + </li> + <li> + Morocco <i>Ambaſſador</i>, <a href="#page43">43</a>; <i>Lover + of Sow-thiſtles</i>. + </li> + <li> + Mortuorum cibi <i>Muſhroms</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + Moſaical <i>Cuſtoms</i>, <a href="#page94">94</a>; + <ul> + <li> + Moſes <i>gave only a ſummary account of the Creation, + ſufficient for inſtruction, not Curioſity</i>, <a + href="#page102">102</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Muſhroms</i>, <a href="#page26">26</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Pernicious Accidents of eating them</i>, <a href="#page26">26</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>How produced artificially</i>, <a href="#page29">29</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Muſtard</i>, <a href="#page30">30</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Myrrh</i>, <a href="#page12">12</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Myrtil-Berries</i>, <a href="#page35">35</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + N. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Napus, <a href="#page46">46</a> + </li> + <li> + Naſturtium, <a href="#page13">13</a>; + <ul> + <li> + Indicum, <a href="#page41">41</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Nature invites all to Sallets</i>, <a href="#page111">111</a> + </li> + <li> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> Nepenthes, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Nerves</i>, <a href="#page54">54</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Nettle</i>, <a href="#page30">30</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Nigard</i>, <a href="#page61">61</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Nouriſhing</i>, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + O. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Obſtructions</i>, <a href="#page16">16</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Ocimum</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + Olera, <i>what properly, how diſtinguish'd from Acetaria</i>, <a + href="#page1">1</a>, <a href="#page2">2</a> + </li> + <li> + Oluſcula, <a href="#page4">4</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Onion</i>, <a href="#page31">31</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>What vaſt Quantities ſpent in</i> Egypt, <a + href="#page32">32</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Opening</i>, <a href="#page16">16</a> + </li> + <li> + Orach, <a href="#page32">32</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Orange</i>, <a href="#page23">23</a> + </li> + <li> + Ornithogallon, <a href="#page48">48</a> + </li> + <li> + Oxalis, <a href="#page42">42</a> + </li> + <li> + Oxylapathum, <a href="#page15">15</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Oyl, how to chooſe</i>, <a href="#page63">63</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Its diffuſive Nature</i>, <a href="#page69">69</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + P. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Painters</i>, <a href="#page50">50</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Palpitation</i>, <a href="#page47">47</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Palſie</i>, <a href="#page30">30</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Panacea</i>, <a href="#page10">10</a> + </li> + <li> + Paradiſian <i>Entertainment</i>, <a href="#page122">122</a> + </li> + <li> + Paralyſis, <a href="#page13">13</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Parſnip</i>, <a href="#page33">33</a> + </li> + <li> + Paſtinaca Sativa, <a href="#page11">11</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Patriarchs</i>, <a href="#page93">93</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Their Long Lives a Shadow of Eternity</i>, <a href="#page96">96</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Peach ſaid to be Poiſon in</i> Perſia, <i>a Fable</i>, + <a href="#page87">87</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Peas</i>, <a href="#page33">33</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Pectorals</i>, <a href="#page58">58</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Pepper</i>, <a href="#page33">33</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Beaten too ſmall, hurtful to the Stomach</i>, <a + href="#page34">34</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Perſly</i>, <a href="#page35">35</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Sacred to the Defunct</i>, <a href="#page35">ib.</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Philoſophers</i>, <a href="#page56">56</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Phlegm</i>, <a href="#page30">30</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Pickle</i>, <a href="#page72">72</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>What Sallet Plants proper for Pickles</i>, <a href="#page72">ib.</a>, + <i>vide Appendix</i>. + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Pig-Nuts</i>, <a href="#page28">28</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Pimpernel</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Plants, their Vertue</i>, <a href="#page59">59</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Variety</i>, <a href="#page114">114</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Nouriſhment</i>, <a href="#page83">83</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>No living at all without them</i>, <a href="#page110">110</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Plants infect by looking on</i>, <a href="#page57">57</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>When in prime</i>, <a href="#page71">71</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>how altered by the Soil and Culture</i>, <a href="#page84">84</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Not degenerated ſince the Flood</i>, <a href="#page105">105</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Platonic <i>Tables</i>, <a href="#page97">97</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Pleuriſie</i>, <a href="#page81">81</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Poiverade</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a> + </li> + <li> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>Poppy</i>, <a href="#page48">48</a> + </li> + <li> + Porrum, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + Poſtdiluvians, <a href="#page93">93</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Potage</i>, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + Potagere, <a href="#page119">119</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Pot-Herbs</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Poyſon</i>, <a href="#page18">18</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Præcoce Plants not ſo wholſome artificially raiſ'd</i>, + <a href="#page85">85</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Preparation to the dreſſing of Sallets</i>, <a + href="#page10">10</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Prodigal</i>, <a href="#page61">61</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Pugil</i>, <a href="#page70">70</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Puniſhment</i>, <a href="#page18">18</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Purſlan</i>, <a href="#page36">36</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Putrefaction</i>, <a href="#page33">33</a> + </li> + <li> + Pythagoras, <a href="#page97">97</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + Q. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Quality and Vertue of Plants</i>, <a href="#page53">53</a>. <i>See + Plants</i>. + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + R. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Radiſh</i>, <a href="#page37">37</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>of Gold dedicated at</i> Delphi, <a href="#page37">37</a>; + </li> + <li> + Moſchius <i>wrote a whole Volume in praiſe of them</i>, <a + href="#page37">ib.</a>; + </li> + <li> + Hippocrates <i>condemns them</i>, <a href="#page37">ib.</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Raphanus Ruſticanus <i>Horſe Radiſh</i>, <a href="#page38">38</a> + </li> + <li> + Radix Lunaria, <a href="#page48">48</a>; + <ul> + <li> + Perſonata, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Ragout, <a href="#page28">28</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Rampion</i>, <a href="#page39">39</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Rapum</i>, <a href="#page46">46</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Ray, Mr.</i>, <a href="#page55">55</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Refreſhing</i>, <a href="#page13">13</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Reſtaurative</i>, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Rocket</i>, <a href="#page39">39</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Roccombo</i>, <a href="#page18">18</a> + </li> + <li> + Roman <i>Sallet</i>, <a href="#page112">112</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Lux</i>, <a href="#page115">115</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Roſemary</i>, <a href="#page39">39</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Roots</i>, <a href="#page37">37</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Rhue</i>, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + S. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Saffron</i>, <a href="#page68">68</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sage</i>, <a href="#page39">39</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sallets, what, how improved, whence ſo called</i>, <a + href="#page3">3</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Ingredients</i>, <a href="#page4">4</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Variety and Store above what the Ancients had</i>, <a + href="#page112">112</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Bills of Fare</i>, <a href="#page112">112</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Skill in chooſing, gathering, compoſing and dreſſing</i>, + <a href="#page48">48</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>found in the Crops of Foul</i>, <a href="#page62">62</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>what formerly in uſe, now abdicated</i>, <a href="#page49">49</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>extemporary Sallets</i>, <a href="#page87">87</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Whether beſt to begin or conclude with Sallets</i>, <a + href="#page73">73</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> Salade de Preter, <a href="#page13">13</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Salt</i>, <a href="#page64">64</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>What beſt for Sallets</i>, <a href="#page64">64</a>; + </li> + <li> + <i>Salts Eſſential, and of Vegetables</i>, <a + href="#page65">65</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Sambucus, <a href="#page16">16</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sampier</i>, <a href="#page40">40</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sanguine</i>, <a href="#page36">36</a> + </li> + <li> + Sarcophagiſts, <a href="#page56">56</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sauce</i>, <a href="#page39">39</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Savoys</i>, <a href="#page11">11</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Scallions</i>, <a href="#page41">41</a> + </li> + <li> + Scorbute, vide <i>Scurvy</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Scurvy-Graſs</i>, <a href="#page41">41</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Scurvy</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Seaſon</i>, <a href="#page71">71</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Seaſoning</i>, <a href="#page79">79</a>, vide <i>Sallet</i>. + </li> + <li> + Sedum minus, <a href="#page45">45</a>, <i>vide</i> Stone-Crop. + </li> + <li> + <i>Sellery</i>, <a href="#page41">41</a> + </li> + <li> + Seneca, <a href="#page98">98</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Shambles</i>, <a href="#page77">77</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sight</i>, <a href="#page50">50</a>, vide <i>Eyes</i>. + </li> + <li> + Silphium, <a href="#page50">50</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>How precious and ſacred</i>, <a href="#page51">51</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + <i>Simples</i>, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sinapi</i>, <a href="#page30">30</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Siſarum</i>, <a href="#page42">42</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Skirrits</i>, <a href="#page42">ib.</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sleep, to procure</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Smallage</i>, <a href="#page41">41</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Smut in Wheat</i>, <a href="#page86">86</a> + </li> + <li> + Syrenium Vulgare, <a href="#page5">5</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Snails, ſafe Taſters</i>, <a href="#page56">56</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sonchus</i>, <a href="#page43">43</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sordidneſs</i>, <a href="#page87">87</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sorrel</i>, <a href="#page42">42</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sow-thiſtle</i>, vide Sonchus. + </li> + <li> + <i>Specificks, few yet diſcovered</i>, <a href="#page83">83</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Spleen</i>, <a href="#page10">10</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Spinach</i>, <a href="#page12">12</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Spirits, cheriſhing and reviving</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Spring</i>, <a href="#page71">71</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Stomach</i>, <a href="#page16">16</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Stone</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Stone-Crop</i>, <a href="#page44">44</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Strowings</i>, <a href="#page67">67</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Students</i>, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Succory</i>, <a href="#page44">44</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sugar</i>, <a href="#page14">14</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Summer</i>, <a href="#page84">84</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Sumptuary Laws</i>, <a href="#page116">116</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Swearing</i> per Braſſicam, <a href="#page11">11</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Swine uſed to find out Truffles and Earth-Nuts</i>, <a + href="#page28">28</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + T. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Table of Species, Culture, Proportion and dreſſing of + Sallets, according to the Seaſon</i>, <a href="#page70">70</a> + </li> + <li> + Tacitus, <i>Emp. Temperance</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Tanſie</i>, <a href="#page44">44</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Tarragon</i>, <a href="#page45">45</a> + </li> + <li> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> <i>Taſte ſhould be exquiſite + in the Compoſer of Sallets</i>, <a href="#page60">60</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Tea</i>, <a href="#page17">17</a>, vide Appendix. + </li> + <li> + <i>Temper</i>, <a href="#page81">81</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Temperance</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Teeth</i>, <a href="#page37">37</a> + </li> + <li> + Theriacle, <i>vide Garlick</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Thirſt, to aſſwage</i>, <a href="#page33">33</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Thiſtle</i>, <a href="#page45">45</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Thyme</i>, <a href="#page19">19</a>, vide <i>Pot-herbs</i>. + </li> + <li> + Tiberius Cæſ., <a href="#page42">42</a> + </li> + <li> + Tragopogon, <a href="#page47">47</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Tranſmigration</i>, <a href="#page56">56</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Tribute paid to Roots</i>, <a href="#page42">42</a> + </li> + <li> + Truffles, <a href="#page28">28</a> + </li> + <li> + Tubera, <a href="#page28">28</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Tulip eaten that coſt</i> 100 <i>l.</i>, <a href="#page47">47</a> + </li> + <li> + Turiones, <a href="#page9">9</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Turnip</i>, <a href="#page46">46</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Made a Fiſh</i>, <a href="#page113">113</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + V. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Vapours to repreſs</i>, <a href="#page21">21</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Variety neceſſary and proper</i>, <a href="#page92">92</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Ventricle</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a>, vide <i>Stomach</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Vine</i>, <a href="#page47">47</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Vinegar</i>, <a href="#page63">63</a>; vide Appendix. + </li> + <li> + <i>Viper-Graſs</i>, <a href="#page47">47</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Vertues of Sallet Plants and Furniture</i>, <a href="#page57">57</a>; + <ul> + <li> + <i>Conſiſt in the ſeveral and different Parts of the + ſame Plant</i>, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + </ul> + </li> + <li> + Voluptuaria Venena, <a href="#page28">28</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + U. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + Urtica, <a href="#page30">30</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + W. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Welſh, prolifick</i>, <a href="#page20">20</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Wind</i>, <a href="#page17">17</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Wine</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a>; vide <i>Appendix</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Winter Sallets</i>, <a href="#page7">7</a>; vide <i>Appendix</i>. + </li> + <li> + <i>Wood-Sorrel</i>, <a href="#page47">47</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Worms in Fennel, and Sellery</i>, <a href="#page17">17</a> + </li> + <li> + <i>Wormwood</i>, <a href="#page49">49</a> + </li> + </ul> + <h3> + Y. + </h3> + <ul> + <li> + <i>Youth to preserve</i>, <a href="#page85">85</a> + </li> + </ul> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <hr /> + <hr /> + <h2> + Footnotes + </h2> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="note-1" id="note-1"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 1 (<a href="#noteref-1">return</a>)<br /> <i>Lord Viſcount</i> + Brouncker, <i>Chancellor to the Late Qu. Conſort, now</i> Dowager. <i>The + Right Honourable</i> Cha. Montague, <i>Eſq; Chancellor of the</i> + Exchequer. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-2" id="note-2"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 2 (<a href="#noteref-2">return</a>)<br /> <i>Si quid temporis à + civilibus negotiis quibis totum jam intenderat animum, ſuffurari + potuit, colendis agris, priſcos illos Romanos</i> Numam Pompilium, + Cincinnatum, Catonem, Fabios, Cicerones, <i>alioſque virtute claros + viros imitare; qui in magno honore conſtituti, vites putare, ſtercorare + agros, & irrigare nequaquam turpe & inhone ſtum putarunt</i>. + In Vit. <i>Plin.</i> 2. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-3" id="note-3"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 3 (<a href="#noteref-3">return</a>)<br /> Ut hujuſmodi hiſtoriam + vix dum incohatum, non ante abſolvendam putem. + </p> + <p> + Exitio terras quam dabit una dies. <i>D. Raius</i> Praefat. Hiſt. + Plan. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-4" id="note-4"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 4 (<a href="#noteref-4">return</a>)<br /> Olera a frigidis diſtinct. + <i>See</i> Spartianus in Peſcennio. Salmaſ. in Jul. Capitolin. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-5" id="note-5"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 5 (<a href="#noteref-5">return</a>)<br /> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + Panis erat primis virides mortalibus Herbae; + </p> + <p> + Quas tellus nullo ſollicitante dabat. + </p> + <p> + Et modo carpebant vivaci ceſpite gramen; + </p> + <p> + Nunc epulæ tenera fronde cacumen erant. + </p> + <p style="text-align: right;"> + Ovid, Faſtor. IV. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-6" id="note-6"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 6 (<a href="#noteref-6">return</a>)<br /> <span class="Greek" + title="kaloumen gar lachana ta ôros tên hêmeneran chreian"> + καλουμεν γαρ + λαχανα τα ωρος + την ημενεραν χρειαν</span>, + <!-- [Greek: kaloumen gar lachana ta ôros tên hêmeneran + chreian] --> Theophraſt. Plant. 1. VII. cap. 7. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-7" id="note-7"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 7 (<a href="#noteref-7">return</a>)<br /> Gen. I. 29. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-8" id="note-8"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 8 (<a href="#noteref-8">return</a>)<br /> Plutarch Sympoſ. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-9" id="note-9"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 9 (<a href="#noteref-9">return</a>)<br /> Salmaſ. in Solin. <i>againſt</i> + Hieron. Mercurialis. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-10" id="note-10"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 10 (<a href="#noteref-10">return</a>)<br /> Galen. 2R. Aliment. cap. l. Et + Simp. Medic. Averroes, lib. V. Golloc. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-11" id="note-11"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 11 (<a href="#noteref-11">return</a>)<br /> Plin. lib. XIX. c. 4. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-12" id="note-12"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 12 (<a href="#noteref-12">return</a>)<br /> Convictus facilis, fine arte + menſa. Mart. Ep. 74. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-13" id="note-13"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 13 (<a href="#noteref-13">return</a>)<br /> <span class="Greek" + title="Apuron trophui"> Απυνρον τροφυι</span>, + <!-- [Greek: Apuron trophui] --> <i>which</i> Suidas <i>calls</i> <span + class="Greek" title="lachana"> λαχανα</span>, + <!-- [Greek: lachana] --> Olera quæ cruda ſumuntur ex Aceto. + Harduin in loc. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-14" id="note-14"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 14 (<a href="#noteref-14">return</a>)<br /> Plin. H. Nat. <i>lib. xix. cap. + 8</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-15" id="note-15"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 15 (<a href="#noteref-15">return</a>)<br /> <i>De</i> R.R. <i>cap. clvii</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-16" id="note-16"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 16 (<a href="#noteref-16">return</a>)<br /> <span class="Greek" + title="'Ephthos, dosikuos, apalos, aluôs, ourêtikos."> 'Εφθος, + δοσικυος, απαλος, + αλυως, ουρητικος.</span> + <!-- [Greek: 'Ephthos, dosikuos, apalos, aluôs, ourêtikos.] --> + Athen. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-17" id="note-17"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 17 (<a href="#noteref-17">return</a>)<br /> Cucumis elixus delicatior, + innocentior. Athenæus. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-18" id="note-18"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 18 (<a href="#noteref-18">return</a>)<br /> Eubulus. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-19" id="note-19"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 19 (<a href="#noteref-19">return</a>)<br /> In Lactuca occultatum à + Venere Adonin cecinit <i>Callimachus</i>, quod Allegoricè + interpretatus <i>Athenæus</i> illuc referendum putat, quod in + Venerem hebetiores fiant Lactucis vescentes assiduè. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-20" id="note-20"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 20 (<a href="#noteref-20">return</a>)<br /> Apud Sueton. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-21" id="note-21"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 21 (<a href="#noteref-21">return</a>)<br /> Vopiſeus Tacit. <i>For the + reſt both of the Kinds and Vertues</i> of Lettuce, <i>See</i> Plin. + H. Nat. <i>l. xix. c. 8. and xx. c. 7</i>. Fernel. &c. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-22" id="note-22"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 22 (<a href="#noteref-22">return</a>)<br /> De Legib. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-23" id="note-23"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 23 (<a href="#noteref-23">return</a>)<br /> <i>Hor</i>. Epod. II. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-24" id="note-24"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 24 (<a href="#noteref-24">return</a>)<br /> De Simp. Medic. L. vii. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-25" id="note-25"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 25 (<a href="#noteref-25">return</a>)<br /> <i>Lib.</i> ii. <i>cap.</i> 3. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-26" id="note-26"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 26 (<a href="#noteref-26">return</a>)<br /> Exoneraturas Ventrem mihi + Villica Malvas Attulit, & varias, quas habet hortus, Opes. + </p> + <p style="text-align: right; margin: -1em;"> + <i>Mart. Lib. x.</i> + </p> + <p> + <i>And our ſweet Poet</i>: + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p class="i2"> + ——Nulla eſt humanior herba, + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Nulla magis ſuavi commoditate bona eſt, + </p> + <p> + Omnia tam placidè regerat, blandéquerelaxat, + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Emollítque vias, nec ſinit eſſe rudes. + </p> + <p style="text-align: right;"> + Cowl. <i>Plan.</i> L. 4. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-27" id="note-27"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 27 (<a href="#noteref-27">return</a>)<br /> Cic <i>ad Attic</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-28" id="note-28"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 28 (<a href="#noteref-28">return</a>)<br /> Sueton <i>in Claudi.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-29" id="note-29"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 29 (<a href="#noteref-29">return</a>)<br /> Sen. Ep. lxiii. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-30" id="note-30"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 30 (<a href="#noteref-30">return</a>)<br /> Plin. N.H. <i>l. xxi</i>. c. + 23. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-31" id="note-31"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 31 (<a href="#noteref-31">return</a>)<br /> Tranſact. Philoſ. <i>Num.</i> + 202. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-32" id="note-32"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 32 (<a href="#noteref-32">return</a>)<br /> Apitius, <i>lib. vii. cap. 13</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-33" id="note-33"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 33 (<a href="#noteref-33">return</a>)<br /> Philoſ. Tranſact. <i>Num.</i> + 69. <i>Journey to</i> Paris. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-34" id="note-34"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 34 (<a href="#noteref-34">return</a>)<br /> Pratenſibus optima fungis + Natura eſt: aliis male creditur. <i>Hor. Sat. l. 7. Sat. 4.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-35" id="note-35"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 35 (<a href="#noteref-35">return</a>)<br /> Bacon <i>Nat. Hiſt.</i> + 12. Cent. vii. 547, 548, &c. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-36" id="note-36"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 36 (<a href="#noteref-36">return</a>)<br /> Gaffend. <i>Vita Peirſ.</i> + l. iv. Raderus <i>Mart.</i> l. Epig. xlvi. In ponticum—<i>ſays, + within four Days</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-37" id="note-37"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 37 (<a href="#noteref-37">return</a>)<br /> O Sanctas gentes, quibus haec + naſcuntur in hortis <br /> Numina****—— <i>Juv. Sat. 15.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-38" id="note-38"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 38 (<a href="#noteref-38">return</a>)<br /> Herodotus. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-39" id="note-39"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 39 (<a href="#noteref-39">return</a>)<br /> <span class="Greek" + title="hôra to rhadiôs phaines"> ωρα το + ραδιως φαινες</span>, + <!-- [Greek: hôra to rhadiôs phaines] --> quia tertio + à fatu die appareat. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-40" id="note-40"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 40 (<a href="#noteref-40">return</a>)<br /> De diaeta <i>lib.</i> ii. <i>cap.</i> + 25. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-41" id="note-41"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 41 (<a href="#noteref-41">return</a>)<br /> De Aliment. Facult. <i>lib.</i> + ii. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-42" id="note-42"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 42 (<a href="#noteref-42">return</a>)<br /> <i>Philoſ. Tranſact.</i> + Vol. xvii. Num. 205. p. 970. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-43" id="note-43"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 43 (<a href="#noteref-43">return</a>)<br /> <i>Plin.</i> H. Nat. Lib. xix. + cap. 3. & xx. c. 22. See Jo. Tzetzes Chil. vi. 48. & xvii. 119. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-44" id="note-44"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 44 (<a href="#noteref-44">return</a>)<br /> Spanheim, De uſu & + Praeſt. Numiſ. Diſſert. 4to. <i>It was ſometimes + alſo the Reverſe</i> of Jupiter Hammon. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-45" id="note-45"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 45 (<a href="#noteref-45">return</a>)<br /> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <span class="Greek" title="oud an eidoiês ge moi"> ουδ + αν ειδοιης γε + μοι</span> + <!-- [Greek: oud an eidoiês ge moi] --> + </p> + <p> + <span class="Greek" + title="Ton plouton auton k— to Bat-ou silphion"> Τον + πλουτον αυτον + κ— το Βατ-ου + σιλφιον</span>. + <!-- [Greek: Ton plouton auton k- to Bat-ou silphion]. --> + </p> + <p style="text-align: right;"> + <i>Aristoph</i>. in Pluto. Act. iv. Sc. 3. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-46" id="note-46"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 46 (<a href="#noteref-46">return</a>)<br /> <i>Of which ſome would + have it a courſer ſort</i> inamoeni odoris, <i>as the ſame + Comedian names it in his</i> Equites, <i>p. 239. and 240</i>. Edit. Basil. + <i>See likewiſe this diſcuſs'd, together with its + Properties, moſt copiouſly, in</i> Jo. Budaeus <i>a</i> Stapul. + <i>Comment. in</i> Theophraſt. lib. vi. cap. 1. <i>and</i> Bauhin. <i>Hiſt. + Plant.</i> lib. xxvii. cap. 53. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-47" id="note-47"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 47 (<a href="#noteref-47">return</a>)<br /> Vide <i>Cardanum</i> de uſu + Cibi. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-48" id="note-48"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 48 (<a href="#noteref-48">return</a>)<br /> <i>Vol.</i> xx. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-49" id="note-49"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 49 (<a href="#noteref-49">return</a>)<br /> Cowley: + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + <span class="Greek" + title="Oud oson in malachê te k— asphodelô meg oneiar"> + Ουδ οσον ιν + μαλαχη τε κ— + ασφοδελω μεγ + ονειαρ </span> + <!-- [Greek: Oud oson in malachê te k- asphodelô meg + oneiar] --> + </p> + <p> + <span class="Greek" + title="Krupsantes gar echousi theoi Bion anthrôpoisi."> Κρυψαντες + γαρ εχουσι + θεοι Βιον ανθρωποισι</span>. + <!-- [Greek: Krupsantes gar echousi theoi Bion anthrôpoisi.] --> + </p> + <p style="text-align: right;"> + Hesiod. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-50" id="note-50"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 50 (<a href="#noteref-50">return</a>)<br /> <i>Concerning this of Inſects, + See Mr.</i> Ray's <i>Hiſt. Plant. li. l. cap. 24</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-51" id="note-51"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 51 (<a href="#noteref-51">return</a>)<br /> <i>The poyſon'd Weeds: I + have ſeen a Man, who was ſo poyſon'd with it, that the Skin + peel'd off his Face, and yet he never touch'd it, only looked on it as he + paſs'd by</i>. <i>Mr.</i> Stafford, <i>Philoſ. Tranſact.</i> + Vol. III. Num. xl. p. 794. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-52" id="note-52"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 52 (<a href="#noteref-52">return</a>)<br /> Cowley, <i>Garden</i>, Miſcel. + Stanz. 8. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-53" id="note-53"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 53 (<a href="#noteref-53">return</a>)<br /> Sapores minime Conſentientes + <span class="Greek" title="kai sumpleko-uas ouchi symphônous haphas"> + και συμπλεκο-υας + ουχι συμφωνους + αφας</span>: + <!-- [Greek: kai sumpleko-uas ouchi symphônous haphas] --> Haec deſpicere + ingenioſi eſt artificis: <i>Neither did the Artiſt mingle + his Proviſions without extraordinary Study and Conſideration</i>: + <span class="Greek" title="Alla mixas panta kata symphônian"> + Αλλα μιξας παντα + κατα συμφωνιαν</span>. + <!-- [Greek: Alla mixas panta kata symphônian] --> Horum ſingulis + ſeorſum aſſumptis, tu expedito: Sic ego tanquam + Oraculo jubeo. —— Itaque literarum ignarum Coquum, tu cum + videris, & qui Democriti ſcripta omnia non perlegerit, vel + potius, impromptu non habeat, eum deride ut futilem: Ac ilium Mercede + conducito, qui Epicuri Canonen uſu plane didicerit, <i>&c. as it + follows in the</i> Gaſtronomia <i>of</i> Archeſtratus, Athen. + lib. xxiii. <i>Such another</i> Bragadoccio Cook Horace <i>deſcribes</i> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + Nec ſibi Coenarum quivis temere arroget artem + </p> + <p> + Non prius exacta tenui ratione ſaporem. + </p> + <p style="text-align:right;"> + <i>Sat. lib. ii. Sat. 4.</i> + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-54" id="note-54"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 54 (<a href="#noteref-54">return</a>)<br /> Milton's <i>Paradiſe Loſt</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-55" id="note-55"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 55 (<a href="#noteref-55">return</a>)<br /> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + —— Qui + </p> + <p> + Tingat olus ſiccum muria vaſer in calice emptâ + </p> + <p> + Ipſe ſacrum irrorans piper —— Perſ. <i>Sat.</i> + vi. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-56" id="note-56"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 56 (<a href="#noteref-56">return</a>)<br /> <i>Dr.</i> Grew, Lect. vi. c. + 2. 3. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-57" id="note-57"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 57 (<a href="#noteref-57">return</a>)<br /> <i>Muffet</i>, de Diaeta, <i>c.</i> + 23. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-58" id="note-58"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 58 (<a href="#noteref-58">return</a>)<br /> <i>Dr.</i> Grew, <i>Annat. + Plant.</i> Lib. l. Sect. iv. cap. l, &c. <i>See alſo</i>, Tranſact. + <i>Num.</i> 107. <i>Vol.</i> ix. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-59" id="note-59"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 59 (<a href="#noteref-59">return</a>)<br /> <i>Philoſoph. Tranſact.</i> + Vol. III. Num. xl. p. 799. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-60" id="note-60"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 60 (<a href="#noteref-60">return</a>)<br /> Mart. <i>Epig. lib.</i> xi. 39. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-61" id="note-61"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 61 (<a href="#noteref-61">return</a>)<br /> Athen. l. 2. <i>Of which Change + of Diet ſee</i> Plut. iv. <i>Sympoſ.</i> 9. Plinii <i>Epiſt.</i> + I. <i>ad Eretrium.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-62" id="note-62"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 62 (<a href="#noteref-62">return</a>)<br /> Virg. <i>Moreto</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-63" id="note-63"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 63 (<a href="#noteref-63">return</a>)<br /> Hor. <i>Sat. I. 2. Sat. 4.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-64" id="note-64"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 64 (<a href="#noteref-64">return</a>)<br /> Mart. <i>Ep. l.</i> v. <i>Ep. + 17</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-65" id="note-65"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 65 (<a href="#noteref-65">return</a>)<br /> <i>Concerning the Uſe of + Fruit (beſsides many others) whether beſt to be eaten before, or + after Meals? Publiſhed by a Phyſician of</i> Rochel, <i>and + render'd out of</i> French <i>into</i> Engliſh. <i>Printed by</i> T. + Baſſet <i>in</i> Fleetſtreet. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-66" id="note-66"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 66 (<a href="#noteref-66">return</a>)<br /> Achilles, Patroclus, Automedon. + <i>Iliad. ix. & alibi</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-67" id="note-67"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 67 (<a href="#noteref-67">return</a>)<br /> <i>For ſo ſome + pronounce it</i>, V. Athenaeum Deip. <i>Lib.</i> II. <i>Cap.</i> 26 <span + class="Greek" title="êd-">ηδ-</span> + <!-- [Greek: êd-] --> quaſi <span class="Greek" + title="êdusma"> ηδυσμα</span>, + <!-- [Greek: êdusma] --> <i>perhaps for that it incites Appetite, + and cauſes Hunger, which is the beſt Sauce</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-68" id="note-68"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 68 (<a href="#noteref-68">return</a>)<br /> Cratinus in Glauco. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-69" id="note-69"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 69 (<a href="#noteref-69">return</a>)<br /> Nat. Hiſt. IV. <i>Cent.</i> + VII. 130. Se Ariſt. Prob. <i>Sect.</i> xx. <i>Quaeſt.</i> 36. <i>Why + ſome Fruits and Plants are beſt raw, others boil'd, roaſted</i>, + &c, <i>as becoming ſweeter; but the Crude more ſapid and + grateful</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-70" id="note-70"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 70 (<a href="#noteref-70">return</a>)<br /> Card. <i>Contradicent</i>. Med. + l. iv. <i>Cant.</i> 18. Diphilus <i>not at all</i>. Athenaeus. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-71" id="note-71"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 71 (<a href="#noteref-71">return</a>)<br /> <i>Sir</i> Tho. Brown's <i>Miſcel.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-72" id="note-72"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 72 (<a href="#noteref-72">return</a>)<br /> Caule ſuburbano qui ficcis + crevit in agris Dulcior,—— <br /> ——Hor. <i>Sat.</i> + l. 2. §4. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-73" id="note-73"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 73 (<a href="#noteref-73">return</a>)<br /> Tranſact. Philoſ. <i>Num.</i> + xxv. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-74" id="note-74"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 74 (<a href="#noteref-74">return</a>)<br /> <i>Num.</i> xviii. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-75" id="note-75"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 75 (<a href="#noteref-75">return</a>)<br /> <i>Theſaur. Sanit.</i> c. + 2. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-76" id="note-76"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 76 (<a href="#noteref-76">return</a>)<br /> <i>As</i> Delcampius <i>interprets + the Place</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-77" id="note-77"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 77 (<a href="#noteref-77">return</a>)<br /> Scaliger ad Card. Exercit. 213. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-78" id="note-78"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 78 (<a href="#noteref-78">return</a>)<br /> <i>Cel.</i> Lib. Cap. 4. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-79" id="note-79"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 79 (<a href="#noteref-79">return</a>)<br /> Plin. <i>Nat. Hiſt. l. 3. + c. 12.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-80" id="note-80"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 80 (<a href="#noteref-80">return</a>)<br /> Hanc brevitatem Vitae (<i>ſpeaking + of Horſes</i>) fortaſſe homini debet, <i>Verul. Hist.</i> + Vit. & Mort. <i>See this throughly controverted</i>, Macrob. <i>Saturn.</i> + l. vii. c. v. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-81" id="note-81"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 81 (<a href="#noteref-81">return</a>)<br /> Ariſt. <i>Hiſt. + Animal. l.</i> v. <i>c.</i> 14. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-82" id="note-82"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 82 (<a href="#noteref-82">return</a>)<br /> <span class="Greek" + title="anomoia sasiazei."> ανομοια + σασιαζει </span> + <!-- [Greek: anomoia sasiazei.] --> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-83" id="note-83"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 83 (<a href="#noteref-83">return</a>)<br /> Hor. <i>Sat. l.</i> II. <i>Sat.</i> + 2. Macr. <i>Sat. l.</i> VII. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-84" id="note-84"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 84 (<a href="#noteref-84">return</a>)<br /> Gen. ix. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-85" id="note-85"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 85 (<a href="#noteref-85">return</a>)<br /> Metam. i. Fab. iii. <i>and</i> + xv. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-86" id="note-86"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 86 (<a href="#noteref-86">return</a>)<br /> Gen. xi. 19. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-87" id="note-87"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 87 (<a href="#noteref-87">return</a>)<br /> Gen. ix. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-88" id="note-88"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 88 (<a href="#noteref-88">return</a>)<br /> <i>Porphyr.</i> de Abſtin. + <i>Proclum</i>, <i>Jambleum</i>, &c. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-89" id="note-89"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 89 (<a href="#noteref-89">return</a>)<br /> Strom, vii. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-90" id="note-90"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 90 (<a href="#noteref-90">return</a>)<br /> Praep. Lv. paſſim. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-91" id="note-91"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 91 (<a href="#noteref-91">return</a>)<br /> Tertul. <i>de Tejun.</i> cap. + iv. Hieron. <i>adverſ.</i> Jovin. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-92" id="note-92"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 92 (<a href="#noteref-92">return</a>)<br /> Sen. <i>Epiſt.</i> 108. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-93" id="note-93"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 93 (<a href="#noteref-93">return</a>)<br /> 1 <i>Cor.</i> viii. 8. 1. <i>Tim.</i> + iv. 1. 3. 14. <i>Rom.</i> ii. 3. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-94" id="note-94"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 94 (<a href="#noteref-94">return</a>)<br /> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + Has Epulas habuit teneri gens aurea mundis + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Et cœnæ ingentis tune caput ipſa ſui. + </p> + <p> + Semide unque meo creverunt corpora ſucco, + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Materiam tanti ſanguinis ille dedit. + </p> + <p> + Tune neque fraus nota eſt, neque vis, neque fœda libido; + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Hæc nimis proles ſæva caloris erat. + </p> + <p> + Si ſacrum illorum, ſit deteſtabile nomen, + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Qui primi ſervæ regne dedere gulæ. + </p> + <p> + Hinc vitiis patefacta via eſt, morbiſq; ſecutis ſas, + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Se lethi facies exeruere novæ. + </p> + <p> + Ah, fuge crudeles Animantum ſanguine men + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Quaſque tibi obſonat mors inimica dapes. + </p> + <p> + Poſcas tandem æger, ſi ſanus negligis, herbas. + </p> + <p class="i2"> + Eſſe cibus nequeunt? at medicamen erunt. + </p> + <p> + <i>Colci</i> Plaut. lib. 1. Lactuca. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-95" id="note-95"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 95 (<a href="#noteref-95">return</a>)<br /> Gen. ix. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-96" id="note-96"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 96 (<a href="#noteref-96">return</a>)<br /> Ancyra xiv. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-97" id="note-97"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 97 (<a href="#noteref-97">return</a>)<br /> Can. Apoſt. 50. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-98" id="note-98"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 98 (<a href="#noteref-98">return</a>)<br /> Clem. Paedag. <i>Lib.</i> ii. + c. l. <i>Vide</i> Prudent. <i>Hymn</i>. <span class="Greek" + title="cha thêmerinôn"> χα θημερινων</span>: + <!-- [Greek: cha thêmerinôn] --> Nos Oloris Coma, nos ſiliqua + facta legumine multitudo paraveris innocuis Epulis. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-99" id="note-99"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 99 (<a href="#noteref-99">return</a>)<br /> xv. <i>Acts</i>, 20, 29. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-100" id="note-100"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 100 (<a href="#noteref-100">return</a>)<br /> <i>Philo</i> de Vit. Contemp. + <i>Joſeph</i>. Antiq. <i>Lib.</i> 13 <i>Cap.</i> 9. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-101" id="note-101"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 101 (<a href="#noteref-101">return</a>)<br /> <i>Hackwell</i>. Apolog. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-102" id="note-102"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 102 (<a href="#noteref-102">return</a>)<br /> Hippoc. de vetere Medicina, + Cap. 6, 7. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-103" id="note-103"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 103 (<a href="#noteref-103">return</a>)<br /> 2 <i>Tim.</i> iv. 3. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-104" id="note-104"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 104 (<a href="#noteref-104">return</a>)<br /> <i>This, with their + prodigious Ignorance</i>. <i>See</i> Mab. des Etudes Monaſt. <i>Part.</i> + 2. c. 17. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-105" id="note-105"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 105 (<a href="#noteref-105">return</a>)<br /> <i>Dr.</i> Liſter's <i>Journey + to</i> Paris. <i>See L'Apocalyps</i> de Meliton, <i>ou Revelation des Myſteres + Cenobitiques</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-106" id="note-106"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 106 (<a href="#noteref-106">return</a>)<br /> Plantarum uſus latiſſimè + patet, & in omni vitæ parte occurrit, ſine illis lautè, + ſine illis commodè non vivitur, ac nec vivitur omninò. + Quæcunque ad victu neceſſaria ſunt, quæcunque + ad delicias faciunt, è locupletiſſimo ſuo penu abundè + ſubminiſtrant: Quantò ex eis menſa innocentior, + mundior, ſalubrior, quam ex animalium cæde & Laniena! Homo + certè naturâ animal carnivorum non eſt; nullis ad prædam + & rapinam armis inſtructum; non dentibus exertis & ferratis, + non unguibus aduncis: Manus ad fructos colligendos, dentes ad mandendos + comparati; nee legimus ſe ante diluvium carnes ad eſum conceſſas, + &c. <i>Raii Hiſt. Plant. Lib.</i> 1. <i>cap.</i> 24. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-107" id="note-107"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 107 (<a href="#noteref-107">return</a>)<br /> Mart. <i>lib.</i> x. <i>Epig.</i> + 44. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-108" id="note-108"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 108 (<a href="#noteref-108">return</a>)<br /> Barl. <i>Eleg. lib.</i> 3. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-109" id="note-109"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 109 (<a href="#noteref-109">return</a>)<br /> Athen. Deip. <i>l.</i> i. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-110" id="note-110"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 110 (<a href="#noteref-110">return</a>)<br /> Cowley, <i>Garden. Stanz.</i> + 6. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-111" id="note-111"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 111 (<a href="#noteref-111">return</a>)<br /> <i>Hence in</i> Macrobius + Sat. lib. vii. c. 5. <i>we find</i> Eupolis <i>the Comedian in his</i> + Æges, <i>bringing in Goats boaſting the Variety of their Food,</i> + <span class="Greek" + title="Boskometh ulês apo pantodaôês, elatês"> + Βοσκομεθ υλης + απο παντοδαωης, + ελατης</span>, + <!-- [Greek: Boskometh ulês apo pantodaôês, + elatês] --> &c. <i>After which follows a Banquet of + innumerable ſorts</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-112" id="note-112"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 112 (<a href="#noteref-112">return</a>)<br /> Eſa. lxv. 25. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-113" id="note-113"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 113 (<a href="#noteref-113">return</a>)<br /> Bina tunc jugera populo + Romano ſatis erat, nullique majorem modum attribuit, quo ſervos + paulo ante principis Neronis, contemptis hujus ſpatii Virdariis, piſcinas + juvat habere majores, gratumque, ſi non aliquem & culinas. <i>Plin. + Hiſt. Nat. lib.</i> xviii. <i>c.</i> 2. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-114" id="note-114"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 114 (<a href="#noteref-114">return</a>)<br /> Interea guſtus elements + per omnia quaerunt. <i>Juv. Sat. 4.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-115" id="note-115"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 115 (<a href="#noteref-115">return</a>)<br /> Cicero. <i>Epiſt.</i> + Lib. 7. <i>Ep.</i> 26. <i>Complaining of a coſtly Sallet, that had + almoſt coſt him his Life</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-116" id="note-116"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 116 (<a href="#noteref-116">return</a>)<br /> Valeriana, <i>That of</i> + Lectucini, Achilleia, Lyſimachia, Fabius, Cicero, Lentulus, Piſo, + &c. a Fabis, Cicere, Lente, Piſis bene ſerendis dicti, <i>Plin.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-117" id="note-117"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 117 (<a href="#noteref-117">return</a>)<br /> Mirum eſſet non + licere pecori Carduis veſci, non licet plebei, &c. <i>And in + another Place</i>, Quoniam portenta quoque terrarum in ganeam vertimus, + etiam quæ refugeant quadrupeded conſciæ, <i>Plin.</i> Hiſt. + Nat. l. xix. c. 8. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-118" id="note-118"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 118 (<a href="#noteref-118">return</a>)<br /> Gra. Faliſc. <i>Gyneget</i>. + Waſ. <i>See concerning this Exceſs</i> Macr. <i>Sat. l. 2. c. 9.</i> + & ſequ. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-119" id="note-119"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 119 (<a href="#noteref-119">return</a>)<br /> Horti maximè + placebant, quia non egerent igni, parceréntque ligno, expedita res, + & parata ſemper, unde <i>Acetaria</i> appellantur, facilia + concoqui, nee oneratura ſenſum cibo, & quæ minime + accenderent deſiderium panis. <i>Plin. Hiſt. Nat. Lib.</i> xix. + <i>c.</i> 4. <i>And of this exceeding Frugality of the</i> Romans, <i>till + after the</i> Mithridatic <i>War, ſee</i> Athenæus Deip. Lib. + 6. cap. 21. Horat. <i>Serm. Sat.</i> 1. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-120" id="note-120"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 120 (<a href="#noteref-120">return</a>)<br /> Nequam eſſe in domo + matrem familias (etenim hæc cura Fœminæ dicebatur) ubi + indiligens eſſet hortus. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-121" id="note-121"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 121 (<a href="#noteref-121">return</a>)<br /> Alterum ſuccidium. <i>Cic.</i> + in <i>Catone</i>. Tiberias <i>had a Tribute of</i> Skirrits <i>paid him</i>. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-122" id="note-122"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 122 (<a href="#noteref-122">return</a>)<br /> Hor. <i>Sat. l. 2.</i> Vix + prae vino ſuſtinet palpebras, eunti in conſilium, &c. + <i>See the Oration of</i> C. <i>Titius</i> de Leg. Fan. Mac <i>Sat. l. 2. + c. 12.</i> + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-123" id="note-123"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 123 (<a href="#noteref-123">return</a>)<br /> Milton's <i>Paradiſe</i>, + 1. v. ver. 228. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-124" id="note-124"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 124 (<a href="#noteref-124">return</a>)<br /> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + At victus illa ætas cui ſecimus aurea nomen + </p> + <p> + Fructibus arboreis, & quas humus educat herbis + </p> + <p> + Fortunata fuit.——<i>Met. xv.</i> + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-125" id="note-125"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 125 (<a href="#noteref-125">return</a>)<br /> Bene moratus venter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-126" id="note-126"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 126 (<a href="#noteref-126">return</a>)<br /> TAB. II. + </p> + <p> + <a name="note-127" id="note-127"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 127 (<a href="#noteref-127">return</a>)<br /> + </p> + <div class="poem"> + <div class="stanza"> + <p> + Fœlix, quem miſera procul ambitione remotum, + </p> + <p> + Parvus ager placide, parvus & hortus, alit. + </p> + <p> + Præbet ager quicquid frugi natura requirit, + </p> + <p> + Hortus habet quicquid luxurioſa petit, + </p> + <p> + Cætera follicitæ ſpecioſa incommoda vitæ + </p> + <p> + Permittit ſtultis quærere, habere malis. + </p> + <p style="text-align: right;"> + <i>Cowley</i>, Pl. lib. iv. + </p> + </div> + </div> + <p> + <a name="note-128" id="note-128"> + <!-- Note --></a> + </p> + <p class="foot"> + 128 (<a href="#noteref-128">return</a>)<br /> Plin. Athenæus, + Macrobius, Bacon, Boyle, Digby, <i>&c.</i> + </p> + <hr class="full" /> + <p> + <span class="nopagenum">[pg]</span> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <div style="width: 450px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"> + <div style="background: url(images/decor-1.png); width: 450px; height: 20px;"></div> + <p style="text-indent: 0;"> + <i>An Edition of one thousand copies was designed by Richard Ellis and + printed under his supervision at The Haddon Craftsmen, Camden, New + Jersey</i>. + </p> + <div style="background: url(images/decor-2.png); width: 450px; height: 20px;"></div> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + </div> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets, by John Evelyn + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS *** + +***** This file should be named 15517-h.htm or 15517-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/5/1/15517/ + +Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets + +Author: John Evelyn + +Release Date: April 1, 2005 [EBook #15517] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS *** + + + + +Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + + + + + +[Illustration: Joannes Evelyn Arm^r] + + + + + + +_ACETARIA_ + +A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS + + * * * * * + +By _JOHN EVELYN, Esq._ + +Author of the _Kalendarium_ + + * * * * * + +_BROOKLYN_, + +Published by the _Women's Auxiliary_, + +BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN + +1937 + + + + +_Printed in the United States of America_ + + + + +_Publisher's Note_ + + +This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of +1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and +those noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt +has been made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit +has been retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have +been carefully followed; also the old-style S [s] has been retained. +Much of the flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly; +and one should remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a +man of letters, and if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous, +they are as amusing a conceit as the French and German complacencies of +a more recent generation. + + + + +_Foreword to Acetaria_ + + +John Evelyn, famous for his "Diary," was a friend and contemporary of +Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public servants who had held minor +offices in the government. But, while Pepys' diary is sparkling and +redolent of the free manners of the Restoration, Evelyn's is the record +of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to gardens, to sculpture and +architecture, rather than to the gaieties of contemporary social life. +Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was "county." He represents the +combination of public servant and country gentleman which has been the +supreme achievement of English culture. + +Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I must +observe that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a +course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence." + +Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons +was brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of +Norfolk, was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the +University of Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and +civic affairs and was commissioner for improving the streets and +buildings in London. He had charge of the sick and wounded of the Dutch +War and also, with the fineness of character typical of his kind, he +remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was also active in +organizing the Royal Society and became its first secretary. + +In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing +his own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books, +one of them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener; +instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees." Evelyn +undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "_Les Delices de +la Campagne_." Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons, +consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this +book which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such +as Acetaria. He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The Compleat +Gardener." His "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written as +a protest against the destruction of trees in England being carried +on by the glass factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded +in inducing landowners to plant millions of trees. + +The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject +matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from the Greek, +political and historical pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or the +inconvenience of the Aer and Smoke of London dissipated," in which he +suggests that sweet-smelling trees should be planted to purify the air +of London. He also wrote a book called "Sculpture, or the History of +Chalcography and Engraving in Copper." + +Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn +grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first +advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing +foods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby, +he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic +comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the +little book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth +edition of the "Kalendarium Hortense," a gardener's almanac. + +The material for _Acetaria_ was gathered as early as 1679 with the +idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture. +The _Plan of a Royal Garden_, was Evelyn's outline for that +ambitious work. + +The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical +for today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are +cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for flavoring soups, egg dishes, +"salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet herbs prepared in ramikins +and the pudding flavored with the petals of calendulas are particularly +good. + +The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It +also shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign +of Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit of +scientific investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas. +Evelyn supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to +prepare new dishes. + +Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it +is not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with +a leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse +trotting through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we +read, we can almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the +family assembled around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or +again we can almost smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy +rows in the well-tilled and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn. + +_Helen M. Fox_ + + * * * * * + + + +[Illustration: _Facsimile of Title Page of First Edition_] + + + + * * * * * + + + + +_To the Right Honourable_ + +_JOHN_ + +Lord Somers + +_of Evesham_ + +Lord _High-Chancellor_ of England, + +and _President_ of the _Royal-Society_. + + * * * * * + + +_My Lord_, + +The _Idea_ and _Plan_ of the _Royal-Society_ having been first conceiv'd +and delineated by a _Great_ and _Learned Chancellor_, which High Office +your Lordship deservedly bears; not as an Acquisition of Fortune, but +your Intellectual Endowments; Conspicuous (among other Excellencies) by +the Inclination Your Lordship discovers to promote _Natural Knowledge_: +As it justifies the Discernment of that _Assembly_, to pitch upon Your +Lordship for their _President_, so does it no less discover the Candor, +yea, I presume to say, the Sublimity of your Mind, in so generously +honoring them with your _Acceptance_ of the _Choice_ they have made. + +A [1]_Chancellor_, and a very Learned Lord, was the _First_ who honoured +the _Chair_; and a no less Honorable and Learned _Chancellor_, resigns +it to Your Lordship: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardships +the _Society_ has hitherto gone through; it has thro' the Favour and +Protection of its _Presidents_, not only preserv'd its Reputation from +the Malevolence of Enemies and Detracters, but gone on _Culminating_, +and now _Triumphantly_ in Your Lordship: Under whose propitious +Influence, I am perswaded, it may promise it self _That_, which indeed +has hitherto been wanting, to justifie the Glorious _Title_ it bears of +a ROYAL SOCIETY. The _Emancipating_ it from some Remaining and +Discouraging Circumstances, which it as yet labours under; among which, +that of a _Precarious_ and unsteady Abode, is not the least. + +This _Honor_ was reserv'd for Your Lordship; and an _Honor_, permit +me to call it, not at all unworthy the Owning of the Greatest Person +living: Namely, the Establishing and Promoting _Real Knowledge_; and +(next to what is _Divine_) truly so called; as far, at least, as Humane +Nature extends towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire +beyond the Land of _Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult +Qualities_, and other _Inadequate Notions_; which, by their Obstreperous +and Noisy Disputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men from +adventuring on further Discoveries, confin'd them in a lazy +Acquiescence, and to be fed with _Fantasms_ and fruitless Speculations, +which signifie nothing to the _specifick_ Nature of Things, solid and +useful knowledge; by the _Investigation of Causes, Principles, Energies, +Powers_, and _Effects_ of _Bodies_, and _Things Visible_; and to improve +them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind. + +_My Lord_, That which the _Royal Society_ needs to accomplish an entire +Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumstances more easie) capable to +subsist with Honor, and to reach indeed the Glorious Ends of its +_Institution_, is an Establishment in a more Settl'd, _Appropriate_, +and _Commodious Place_; having hitherto (like the _Tabernacle_ in the +_Wilderness_) been only _Ambulatory_ for almost _Forty Years_: But +_Solomon_ built the First _Temple_; and what forbids us to hope, that as +Great a _Prince_ may build _Solomon's House_, as that Great _Chancellor_ +(one of Your Lordship's Learned _Predecessors_) had design'd the _Plan_; +there being nothing in that _August_ and _Noble Model_ impossible, or +beyond the _Power_ of _Nature_ and Learned Industry. + +Thus, whilst King _Solomon's_ Temple was _Consecrated_ to the _God_ +of _Nature_, and his true Worship; _This_ may be _Dedicated_, and set +apart for the _Works_ of _Nature_; deliver'd from those Illusions and +Impostors, that are still endeavouring to cloud and depress the True, +and _Substantial Philosophy_: A _shallow_ and _Superficial Insight_, +wherein (as that Incomparable Person rightly observes) having made so +many _Atheists_: whilst a _profound_ and thorow _Penetration_ into her +_Recesses_ (which is the _Business_ of the _Royal Society_) would lead +Men to the _Knowledge_, and _Admiration_ of the _Glorious Author_. + +And now, _My Lord_, I expect some will wonder what my Meaning is, to +usher in a _Trifle_, with so much Magnificence, and end at last in a +fine _Receipt_ for the _Dressing_ of a _Sallet_ with an Handful of +_Pot-Herbs_! But yet, _My Lord_, this _Subject_, as low and despicable +as it appears, challenges a Part of _Natural History_, and the Greatest +Princes have thought it no Disgrace, not only to make it their +_Diversion_, but their _Care_, and to promote and encourage it in the +midst of their weightiest Affairs: He who wrote of the _Cedar_ of +_Libanus_, wrote also of the _Hysop which grows upon the Wall_. + +To verifie this, how much might I say of _Gardens_ and _Rural +Employments_, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular +Business, and that in the Estimate of as Great Men as any Age has +produc'd! And it is of such _Great Souls_ we have it recorded; That +after they had perform'd the Noblest Exploits for the Publick, they +sometimes chang'd their _Scepters_ for the _Spade_, and their _Purple_ +for the Gardiner's _Apron_. And of these, some, My _Lord_, were +_Emperors, Kings, Consuls, Dictators_, and Wise _Statesmen_; who amidst +the most important Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all +their Pomp and Dignity in Exchange of this Learned Pleasure: Nor that +of the most _refin'd_ Part of _Agriculture_ (the _Philosophy_ of the +_Garden_ and _Parterre_ only) but of _Herbs_, and wholesom _Sallets_, +and other plain and useful Parts of _Geoponicks_, and Wrote _Books_ of +_Tillage_ and _Husbandry_; and took the _Plough-Tackle_ for their +_Banner_, and their _Names_ from the _Grain_ and _Pulse_ they sow'd, +as the Marks and Characters of the highest Honor. + +But I proceed no farther on a _Topic_ so well known to Your Lordship: +Nor urge I Examples of such Illustrious Persons laying aside their +Grandeur, and even of deserting their Stations; (which would infinitely +prejudice the Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm) +But to shew how consisent the Diversions of the _Garden_ and _Villa_ +were, with the highest and busiest Employment of the _Commonwealth_, and +never thought a Reproch, or the least Diminution to the Gravity and +Veneration due to their Persons, and the Noble Rank they held. + +Will Your Lordship give me Leave to repeat what is said of the Younger +_Pliny_, (Nephew to the _Naturalist_) and whom I think we may parallel +with the Greatest of his time (and perhaps of any since) under the +Worthiest _Emperor_ the _Roman_ world ever had? A Person of vast +Abilities, Rich, and High in his Master's Favour; that so Husbanded his +time, as in the Midst of the weightiest Affairs, to have Answer'd, and +by his [2]_Example_, made good what I have said on this Occasion. The +Ancient and best Magistrates of _Rome_ allow'd but the _Ninth_ Day for +the _City_ and _Publick Business_; the rest for the _Country_ and the +_Sallet Garden_: There were then fewer _Causes_ indeed at the _Bar_; +but never greater _Justice_, nor _better Judges_ and _Advocates_. And +'tis hence observed, that we hardly find a Great and Wise Man among +the Ancients, _qui nullos habuit hortos_, excepting only _Pomponius +Atticus_; wilst his Dear _Cicero_ professes, that he never laid out his +Money more readily, than in the purchasing of _Gardens_, and those sweet +Retirements, for which he so often left the _Rostra_ (and Court of the +Greatest and most flourishing State of the World) to visit, prune, and +water them with his own Hands. + +But, _My Lord_, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a _Gardiner_ +ought not to be so bold. The present I humbly make your Lordship, is +indeed but a _Sallet_ of _Crude Herbs_: But there is among them that +which was a _Prize_ at the _Isthmian Games_; and Your Lordship knows +who it was both accepted, and rewarded as despicable an Oblation of +this kind. The Favor I humbly beg, is Your Lordship's Pardon for this +Presumption. The Subject is _mean_, and requires it, and my _Reputation_ +in danger; should Your Lordship hence suspect that one could never write +so much of _dressing Sallets_, who minded anything serious, besides the +gratifying a Sensual Appetite with a Voluptuary _Apician_ Art. + +Truly, _My Lord_, I am so far from designing to promote those _Supplicia +Luxuriae_, (as _Seneca_ calls them) by what I have here written; that +were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if not altogether to +their Pristine _Diet_, yet to a much more _wholsome_ and _temperate_ +than is now in Fashion: And what if they find me like to some who are +eager after _Hunting_ and other Field-Sports, which are _Laborious_ +Exercises? and _Fishing_, which is indeed a _Lazy_ one? who, after all +their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either: +For some such I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm so of my self, +(when a well drest and excellent _Sallet_ is before me) I am yet a very +moderate Eater of them. So as to this _Book-Luxury_, I can affirm, and +that truly what the _Poet_ says of himself (on a less innocent Occasion) +_Lasciva pagina, vita proba._ God forbid, that after all I have advanc'd +in Praise of _Sallets_, I should be thought to plead for the Vice I +censure, and chuse that of _Epicurus_ for my _Lemma_; _In hac arte +consenui_; or to have spent my time in nothing else. The _Plan_ annext +to these Papers, and the _Apparatus_ made to superstruct upon it, would +acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on _Sallets_ only. What +I humbly offer Your Lordship, is (as I said) Part of _Natural History_, +the Product of _Horticulture_, and the _Field_, dignified by the most +illustrious, and sometimes tilled _Laureato Vomere_; which, as it +concerns a Part of _Philosophy_, I may (without Vanity) be allow'd to +have taken some Pains in Cultivating, as an inferior Member of the +_Royal Society_. + +But, _My Lord_, wilst You read on (if at least You vouchsafe me that +Honor to read at all) I am conscious I rob the Publick of its most +Precious Moments. + +I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordship's Pardon: Nor indeed +needed I to have said half this, to kindle in Your Breast, that which is +already shining there (Your Lordship's Esteem of the _Royal Society_) +after what You were pleas'd to Express in such an Obliging manner, when +it was lately to wait upon Your Lordship; among whom I had the Honor +to be a Witness of Your Generous, and Favourable Acceptance of their +Addresses, who am, + +_My Lord, + Your Lordship's Most Humble + and Most Obedient Servant, + + JOHN EVELYN_. + + + * * * * * + + + + +THE PREFACE + + +The _Favourable Entertainment which the_ Kalendar _has found, +encouraging the_ Bookseller _to adventure upon_ a Ninth Impression, I +_could not refuse his Request of my Revising, and Giving it the best +Improvement I was capable_, to an Inexhaustible Subject, _as it regards +a Part of_ Horticulture; _and offer some little Aid to such as love a +Diversion so Innocent and Laudable. There are those of late, who have +arrogated, and given the Glorious Title_ of Compleat _and_ Accomplish'd +Gardiners, _to what they have Publish'd; as if there were nothing +wanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected from the +Field; and that_ Nature _had been quite emptied of all her fertile +Store: Whilst those who thus magnifie their Discoveries, have after +all, penetrated but a very little Way into this Vast, Ample, and as +yet, Unknown Territory; Who see not, that it would still require the +Revolution of many Ages; deep, and long_ Experience, _for any Man to +Emerge that Perfect, and Accomplish'd Artist_ Gardiner _they boast +themselves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and far +extended Limits of the_ Vegetable Kingdom, _so incomprehensible is the +Variety it every Day produces, of the most Useful, and Admirable of all +the Aspectable Works of God; since almost all we_ see, _and_ touch, +_and_ taste, _and_ smell, eat _and_ drink, are clad _with, and_ defended +(_from the Greatest_ Prince _to the Meanest_ Peasant) _is furnished from +that Great and Universal Plantation_, Epitomiz'd _in our_ Gardens, +_highly worth the Contemplation of the most Profound Divine, and +Deepest_ Philosopher. + +_I should be asham'd to acknowledge how little I have advanced, could +I find that ever any Mortal Man from_ Adam, Noah, Solomon, Aristotle, +Theophrastus, Dioscorides, _and the rest of Nature's Interpreters, had +ever arriv'd to the perfect Knowledge of any one_ Plant, _or_ Vulgar +Weed _whatsoever: But this perhaps may yet possibly be reserv'd for +another State of Things, and a_ [3]_longer Day; that is_, When Time +shall be no more, but Knowledge shall be encreas'd. + +_We have heard of one who studied and contemplated the Nature of_ +Bees _only, for_ Sixty Years: _After which, you will not wonder, +that a Person of my Acquaintance, should have spent almost_ Forty, +_in Gathering and Amassing Materials for an_ Hortulan _Design, to +so enormous an Heap, as to fill some_ Thousand Pages; _and yet be +comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, within the +Square of less than_ One (_skilfully Planted and Cultivated) sufficient +to furnish, and entertain his Time and Thoughts all his Life long, with +a most Innocent, Agreeable, and Useful Employment. But you may justly +wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it too, with that Reproach_, This Man +began to build, but was not able to finish! _This has been the Fate of +that Undertaking; and I dare promise, will be of whosoever imagines +(without the Circumstances of extraordinary Assistance, and no ordinary +Expence) to pursue the_ Plan, _erect, and finish the_ Fabrick _as it +ought to be_. + +_But this is that which_ Abortives _the Perfection of the most Glorious +and Useful Undertakings; the Unsatiable Coveting to Exhaust all that +should, or can be said upon every Head: If such a one have any thing +else to mind, or do in the World, let me tell him, he thinks of Building +too late; and rarely find we any, who care to superstruct upon the +Foundation of another, and whose_ Ideas _are alike. There ought +therefore to be as many_ Hands, _and_ Subsidiaries _to such a Design_ +(_and those_ Matters _too_) _as there are distinct Parts of the Whole +(according to the subsequent Table) that those who have the Means and +Courage, may_ (_tho' they do not undertake the_ Whole) _finish a_ Part +_at least, and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat, +and Consummate Work indeed_. + +_Of_ One _or_ Two _of these_, I _attempted only a_ Specimen _in my_ +SILVA _and the_ KALENDAR; Imperfect, _I say, because they are both +capable of Great Improvements: It is not therefore to be expected_ +(_Let me use the Words of an Old, and Experienced_ Gardiner) Cuncta +me dicturum, quae vastitas ejus scientiae contineret, sed plurima; nam +illud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque est ulla +Disciplina aut Ars, quae singulari consummata sit ingenio. + +_May it then suffice_ aliquam partem tradidisse, _and that I have done +my Endeavour_. + + ... Jurtilis olim + Ne Videar vixisse. + + +_Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean, +concerning_ Gardening:) _But this is not a Place to Expatiate, deterr'd, +as I have long since been, from so bold an Enterprize, as the Fabrick +I mentioned. I content my self then with an_ Humble Cottage, _and a +Simple_ Potagere, _Appendant to the_ Calendar; _which, Treating only +(and that briefly) of the_ Culture _of_ Moderate Gardens; _Nothing +seems to me, shou'd be more_ Welcome _and_ Agreeable, _than whilst the +Product of them is come into more_ Request _and_ Use _amongst us, than +heretofore (beside what we call, and distinguish by the Name of_ Fruit) +_I did annex some particular Directions concerning_ S A L L E T S. + + + * * * * * + + + + +_THE_ + + PLAN + +_OF A_ + +_ROYAL GARDEN:_ + + +Describing, and Shewing the _Amplitude_, and _Extent_ of that Part of +_Georgicks_, which belongs to _Horticulture_. + + + * * * * * + +In Three Books + + * * * * * + + +_BOOK I_. + + +_Chap. I_. Of _Principles and Elements_ in general. + +_Chap. II_. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; _Fire, Air, Water; +Earth_. + +_Chap. III_. Of the Celestial _Influences_, and particularly of the +_Sun, Moon_, and of the _Climates_. + +_Chap. IV_. Of the Four _Annual Seasons_. + +_Chap. V_. Of the Natural _Mould_ and _Soil_ of a Garden. + +_Chap. VI_. Of _Composts_, and _Stercoration, Repastination, Dressing_ +and _Stirring_ the _Earth_ and _Mould_ of a Garden. + + +_BOOK II_. + + +_Chap. I_. A Garden _Derived_ and _Defin'd;_ its _Dignity, Distinction_, +and _Sorts_. + +_Chap. II_. Of a _Gardiner_, how to be _qualify 'd, regarded_ and +_rewarded_; his _Habitation, Cloathing, Diet_, Under-_Workmen_ and +_Assistants_. + +_Chap. III_. Of the _Instruments_ belonging to a Gardiner; their various +_Uses_, and _Machanical_ Powers. + +_Chap. IV_. Of the _Terms_ us'd, and affected by Gardiners. + +_Chap. V_. Of _Enclosing, Fencing, Plotting_, and disposing of the +Ground; and of _Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, &c._ + +_Chap. VI_. Of a _Seminary, Nurseries_; and of Propagating _Trees, +Plants_ and _Flowers, Planting_ and _Transplanting, &c._ + +_Chap. VII_. Of _Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks_ and +_Embossments_. + +_Chap. VIII_. Of _Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles, +Close-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns_, and other +_Relievo's_; of _Topiary_ and _Hortulan Architecture_. + +_Chap. IX_. Of _Fountains, Jetto's, Cascades, Rivulets, Piscinas, +Canals, Baths_, and other Natural, and Artificial _Water-works_. + +_Chap. X_. Of _Rocks, Grotts, Cryptae, Mounts, Precipices, Ventiducts, +Conservatories_, of _Ice_ and _Snow_, and other Hortulan Refreshments. + +_Chap. XI_. Of _Statues, Busts, Obelisks, Columns, Inscriptions, Dials, +Vasa's, Perspectives, Paintings_, and other Ornaments. + +_Chap. XII_. Of _Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres_, Artificial _Echo's, +Automata_ and _Hydraulic Musck_. + +_Chap. XIII_. Of _Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Insects, &c._ + +_Chap. XIV_. Of _Verdures, Perennial Greens_, and _Perpetual Springs_. + +_Chap. XV_. Of _Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves_, and +Conservatories of Tender _Plants_ and _Fruits_, and how to order them. + +_Chap. XVI_. Of the _Coronary_ Garden: _Flowers_ and _Rare Plants_, how +they are to be _Raised, Governed_ and _Improved_; and how the Gardiner +_is_ to keep his _Register_. + +_Chap. XVII_. Of the _Philosophical Medical_ Garden. + +_Chap. XVIII_. Of _Stupendous_ and _Wonderful_ _Plants_. + +_Chap. XIX_. Of the _Hort-Yard_ and _Potagere_; and what _Fruit-Trees, +Olitory_ and _Esculent_ _Plants_, may be admitted into a Garden of +Pleasure. + +_Chap. XX_. Of _Sallets_. + +_Chap. XXI_. Of a _Vineyard_, and Directions concerning the making of +_Wine_ and other _Vinous_ Liquors, and of _Teas_. + +_Chap. XXII_. Of _Watering, Pruning, Plashing, Pallisading, Nailing, +Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleansing, &c._ + +_Chap. XXIII_. Of the _Enemies_ and _Infirmities_ to which Gardens are +obnoxious, together with _Remedies_. + +_Chap. XXIV_. Of the Gardiner's _Almanack_ or _Kalendarium Hortense_, +directing what he is to do Monthly, and what _Fruits_ and _Flowers_ are +in prime. + + +_BOOK III_. + + +_Chap. I_. Of _Conserving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying, +Transmuting_, and Altering the + +_Species, Forms_, and (reputed) _Substantial Qualities_ of _Plants, +Fruits_ and _Flowers_. + +_Chap. II_. Of the Hortulan _Elaboratory_; and of _distilling_ and +_extracting_ of _Waters, Spirits, Essences, Salts, Colours_, +Resuscitation of _Plants_, with other rare Experiments, and an Account +of their _Virtues_. + +_Chap. III_. Of Composing the _Hortus Hyemalis_, and making Books, of +_Natural, Arid Plants_ and _Flowers_, with several Ways of Preserving +them in their _Beauty_. + +_Chap. IV_. Of _Painting_ of Flowers, Flowers _enamell'd, Silk, +Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Pasts, Horns, Glass, Shells, Feathers, +Moss, Pietra Comessa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings_, and other +Artificial Representations of them. + +_Chap. V_. Of _Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Festoons, Encarpa, +Flower-Pots, Nosegays, Poeses, Deckings_, and other Flowery _Pomps_. + +_Chap. VI_. Of _Hortulan Laws_ and _Privileges_. + +_Chap. VII_. Of the _Hortulan Study_, and of a _Library, Authors_ and +_Books_ assistant to it. + +_Chap. VIII_. Of _Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral_, and +_Political_; with divers _Historical_ Passages, and Solemnities, to shew +the _Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight_, and Universal Use of +Gardens. + +_Chap. IX_. Of Garden _Burial_. + +_Chap. X_. Of _Paradise_, and of the most _Famous Gardens_ in the World, +_Ancient_ and _Modern_. + +_Chap. XI_. The Description of a _Villa_. + +_Chap. XII_. The _Corollary_ and _Conclusion_. + + ----_Laudato ingentia rura_, + _Exiguum colito_.---- + + + * * * * * + + +[Illustration] + + + + +ACETARIA: + +A Discourse of Sallets + + * * * * * + + +Sallets in general consist of certain _Esculent_ Plants and Herbs, +improv'd by Culture, Industry, and Art of the _Gard'ner_: Or, as others +say, they are a Composition of _Edule_ Plants and Roots of several +kinds, to be eaten _Raw_ or _Green, Blanch'd_ or _Candied_: simple--and +_per se_, or intermingl'd with others according to the Season. The +Boil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwise disguis'd, variously accommodated +by the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine +Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, _&c._ challenge not the name of +_Sallet_ so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore, + +Those who _Criticize_ not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguish +the [4]_Olera_ (which were never eaten _Raw_) from _Acetaria_, which +were never _Boil'd;_ and so they derive the Etymology of _Olus_, from +_Olla, the Pot_. But others deduce it from [Greek: Olos], comprehending +the _Universal Genus_ of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from [Greek: Pan] +_Panis;_ esteeming that he who had [5]_Bread_ and _Herbs_, was +sufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire: Others +again will have it, _ab Olendo_, i.e. _Crescendo_, from its continual +_growth and springing up_: So the younger _Scaliger_ on _Varro_: But his +Father _Julius_ extends it not so generally to all Plants, as to all +the _Esculents_, according to the Text: _We call those_ Olera (says +[6]_Theophrastus) which are commonly eaten_, in which sense it may be +taken, to include both _Boil'd_ and _Raw_: Last of all, _ab Alendo_, +as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the +[7]Creation. + +A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the +_Cumini Sectores_, and impertinently Curious; whilst as it concerns +the business in hand, we are by _Sallet_ to understand a particular +Composition of certain _Crude_ and fresh Herbs, such as usually are, +or may safely be eaten with some _Acetous_ Juice, _Oyl, Salt_, &c. to +give them a grateful Gust and _Vehicle_; exclusive of the [8][Greek: +psuchrai trapezai], eaten without their due Correctives, which the +Learned [9]_Salmasius_, and, indeed generally, the [10]old _Physicians_ +affirm (and that truly) all _Crude_ and raw [Greek: lachana] require +to render them wholsome; so as probably they were from hence, as +[11]_Pliny_ thinks, call'd _Acetaria_: and not (as _Hermolaus_ and +some others) _Acceptaria ab Accipiendo_; nor from Accedere, though so +[12]ready at hand, and easily dress'd; requiring neither _Fire, Cost_, +or _Attendance_, to boil, roast, and prepare them as did Flesh, and +other Provisions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always +in use, _&c._ And hence indeed the more frugal _Italians_ and _French_, +to this Day, gather _Ogni Verdura_, any thing almost that's _Green_ +and Tender, to the very Tops of _Nettles_; so as every Hedge affords +a _Sallet_ (not unagreeable) season'd with its proper _Oxybaphon_ of +_Vinegar, Salt, Oyl_, &c. which doubtless gives it both the Relish +and Name of _Salad, Emsalada_[13], as with us of _Sallet_; from the +_Sapidity_, which renders not _Plants_ and _Herbs_ alone, but _Men_ +themselves, and their Conversations, pleasant and agreeable: But of +this enough, and perhaps too much; least whilst I write of _Salt_ and +_Sallet_, I appear my self _Insipid_: I pass therefore to the +Ingredients, which we will call + + +Furniture _and_ Materials + + +The _Materials_ of _Sallets_, which together with the grosser _Olera_, +consist of _Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers_, &c. _Fruits_ +(belonging to another Class) would require a much ampler Volume, than +would suit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an _Appendix_ +only) should we extend the following _Catalogue_ further than to a brief +enumeration only of such _Herbaceous_ Plants, _Oluscula_ and smaller +_Esculents_, as are chiefly us'd in _Cold Sallets_, of whose Culture we +have treated there; and as we gather them from the _Mother_ and _Genial +Bed_, with a touch only of their _Qualities_, for Reasons hereafter +given. + + +1. Alexanders, _Hipposelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare_ (much of the +nature of _Persly_) is moderately hot, and of a cleansing Faculty, +Deobstructing, nourishing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle fresh +Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be chosen, and the Stalks eaten in the +Spring; and when _Blanch'd_, in Winter likewise, with _Oyl, Pepper, +Salt_, &c. by themselves, or in Composition: They make also an excellent +_Vernal_ Pottage. + + +2. Artichaux, _Cinara_, (_Carduus Sativus_) hot and dry. The Heads being +slit in quarters first eaten raw, with _Oyl_, a little _Vinegar, Salt_, +and _Pepper_, gratefully recommend a Glass of _Wine_; Dr. _Muffet_ says, +at the end of Meals. + +They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh _Butter_ +crisp with _Persley_. But then become a most delicate and excellent +Restorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The +_Bottoms_ are also bak'd in _Pies_, with _Marrow, Dates_, and other rich +Ingredients: In _Italy_ they sometimes broil them, and as the Scaly +Leaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet _Oyl_; but with Care +extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that +hazard escap'd, they eat them with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_. + +The Stalk is _Blanch'd_ in Autumn, and the _Pith_ eaten raw or boil'd. +The way of preserving them fresh all Winter, is by separating the +_Bottoms_ from the _Leaves_, and after Parboiling, allowing to every +_Bottom_, a small earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in fresh +melted _Butter_, as they do Wild-Fowl, _&c._ Or if more than one, in +a larger Pot, in the same Bed and Covering, _Layer_ upon _Layer_. + +They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper +being put between every _Bottom_, to hinder them from touching one +another, and so hung up in a dry place. They are likewise _Pickl'd_. + +'Tis not very long since this noble _Thistle_ came first into _Italy_, +Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and so rare in _England_, that +they were commonly sold for _Crowns_ a piece: But what _Carthage_ yearly +spent in them (as _Pliny_ computes the Sum) amounted to _Sestertia Sena +Millia_, 30000 _l. Sterling_. + +_Note_, That the _Spanish Cardon_, a wild and smaller _Artichoak_, with +sharp pointed Leaves, and lesser Head; the Stalks being _Blanch'd_ and +tender, are serv'd-up _a la Poiverade_ (that is with _Oyl, Pepper_, &c.) +as the _French_ term is. + + +3. Basil, _Ocimum_ (as _Baulm_) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not too +strong, somewhat offensive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Tops +to be very sparingly us'd in our _Sallet_. + + +4. Baulm, _Melissa, Baum_, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating, +sovereign for the Brain, strengthning the Memory, and powerfully chasing +away _Melancholy_. The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with other +Herbs; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd, put into _Wine_ or other Drinks, +during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickness: This noble +Plant yields an incomparable _Wine_, made as is that of _Cowslip_-Flowers. + + +5. Beet, _Beta_; of which there is both _Red, Black_, and _White_: The +_Costa_, or Rib of the _White Beet_ (by the _French_ call'd the _Chard_) +being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the _Roots_ (especially +of the _Red_) cut into thin slices, boil'd, when cold, is of it self a +grateful winter _Sallet_; or being mingl'd with other _Oluscula, Oyl, +Vinegar, Salt_, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moist, and naturally +somewhat _Laxative_: But however by the _Epigrammatist_ stil'd +_Foolish_ and _Insipid, as Innocentior quam Olus_ (for so the Learned +[14]_Harduin_ reads the place) 'tis by _Diphilus_ of old, and others +since, preferr'd before _Cabbage_ as of better Nourishment: _Martial_ +(not unlearn'd in the Art of _Sallet_) commends it with _Wine_ and +_Pepper_: He names it indeed--_Fabrorum prandia_, for its being so +vulgar. But eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, as usually, it is no +despicable _Sallet_. There is a _Beet_ growing near the Sea, which is +the most delicate of all. The Roots of the _Red Beet_, pared into thin +Slices and Circles, are by the _French_ and _Italians_ contriv'd into +curious Figures to adorn their _Sallets_. + + +_6_. Blite, _Blitum_; English _Mercury_, or (as our Country House wives +call it) _All-good_, the gentle _Turiones_, and Tops may be eaten as +_Sparagus_, or sodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, much +us'd in _Spain_ and _Italy_; but besides its humidity and detersive +Nature, 'tis _Insipid_ enough. + + +7. Borrage, _Borrago_ (_Gaudia semper ago_) hot and kindly moist, +purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleasant Flavour: +The tender Leaves, and Flowers especially, may be eaten in Composition; +but above all, the Sprigs in _Wine_, like those of _Baum_, are of known +Vertue to revive the _Hypochondriac_, and chear the hard Student. See +_Bugloss_. + + +8. Brooklime, _Anagallis aquatica_; moderately hot and moist, prevalent +in the _Scorbute_, and _Stone_. + + +9. Bugloss, _Buglossum_; in mature much like _Borrage_, yet something +more astringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatly +restorative, being Conserv'd: And for the rest, so much commended by +_Averroes_; that for its effects, cherishing the Spirits, justly call'd +_Euphrosynum_; Nay, some will have it the _Nepenthes_ of _Homer_: But +indeed, what we now call _Bugloss_, was not that of the Ancients, but +rather _Borrage_, for the like Virtue named _Corrago_. + + +Burnet, See _Pimpinella_. + + +10. Buds, _Gemmae, Turiones_; the first Rudiments and Tops of most +_Sallet_-Plants, preferrable to all other less tender Parts; such as +_Ashen-Keys, Broom-buds_, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of _Capers_, +esteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent against the _Spleen_ and +_Scurvy_; and being _Pickl'd_, are sprinkl'd among the _Sallets_, or +eaten by themselves. + + +11. Cabbage, _Brassica_ (and its several kinds) _Pompey's_ beloved Dish, +so highly celebrated by old [15]_Cato_, _Pythagoras_, and _Chrysippus_ +the Physician (as the only _Panacea_) is not so generally magnify'd +by the rest of Doctors, as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice; +yet _Loosening_ if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, _Astringent_, +according to _C. Celsus_; and therefore seldom eaten raw, excepting +by the _Dutch_. The _Cymae_, or Sprouts rather of the _Cole_ are very +delicate, so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. In +raising this _Plant_ great care is to be had of the Seed. The best comes +from _Denmark_ and _Russia_, especially the _Cauly-flower_, (anciently +unknown) or from _Aleppo_. Of the _French_, the _Pancaliere a la large +Coste_, the white, large and ponderous are to be chosen; and so the +_Cauly-flower_: After boiling some steep them in Milk, and seethe them +again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little _Nitre_. The _Broccoli_ +from _Naples_, perhaps the _Halmyridia_ of _Pliny_ (or _Athenaeus_ +rather) _Capiata marina_ & _florida_, our _Sea-keele_ (the ancient +_Crambe_) and growing on our Coast, are very delicate, as are the +_Savoys_, commended for being not so rank, but agreeable to most +_Palates_, and of better Nourishment: In general, _Cabbages_ are thought +to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have them +noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the _Cauly-flower_ rather: But +whilst the Learned are not agreed about it, _Theophrastus_ affirms the +contrary, and _Pliny_ commends the Juice raw, with a little _Honey_, for +the moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, _Cabbage_ +('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach, +and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we +read the Ancients had for them, calling them _Divine_, and Swearing, +_per Brassicam_. 'Tis scarce an hundred Years since we first had +_Cabbages_ out of _Holland_. Sir _Anth. Ashley_ of _Wiburg St. Giles_ +in _Dorsetshire_, being (as I am told) the first who planted them in +_England_. + + +12. Cardon, See _Artichaux_. + + +13. Carrots, _Dauci_, or _Pastinaca Sativa_; temperately warm and dry, +Spicy; the best are yellow, very nourishing; let them be rais'd in +Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy. + + +14. Chervile, _Chaerophyllum, Myrrhis_; The sweet aromatick _Spanish +Chervile_, moderately hot and dry: The tender _Cimae_, and Tops, with +other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our _Sallets_, (as long as they +may be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The +_Roots_ are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons: +This (as likewise _Spinach_) is us'd in _Tarts_, and serves alone for +divers Sauces. + + + Cibbols. \ + Cives. / Vide Onions, _Schoenopraesson_. + + +15. Clary, _Horminum_, when tender not to be rejected, and in _Omlets_, +made up with _Cream_, fried in sweet _Butter_, are eaten with _Sugar_, +Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_. + + +16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_, +are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages. + + +17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Tops +and Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with other +Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ call +them _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_. + + +18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_. + + +19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: But +above all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the +torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect against +the _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_, +and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_ +being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the +_Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_, +proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees, +and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little. + + +20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved +_Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpen +the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c._ if rightly prepar'd; that +is, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice, +in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_, +too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste from +a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in +thin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity, +macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others +prepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress them +with very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of +_Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (and +indeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retaining +their Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothing +remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the +_Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and +_Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth is +greatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without the +least damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since +_Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being +accounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that in +the _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it a +raw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd in +White-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriated +with the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter. + + +21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_ +are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Spring +till _June_. + + +22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters, +to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, and +little inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-People +eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife +_Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_. + + +23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho' +otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_, +are excellent for the _Scorbute_. + + +Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near +_Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by +Rustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots, +or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing. + + +24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful both +to the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho' +the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in +_Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most +sovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently +wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_. + + +25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, and +tenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold, +profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructions +of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in +Composition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent being +boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, and +the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_. + + +Eschalot. See _Onions_. + + +26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick, +hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain; +especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be +peel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts and +Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_, +and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into +Composition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call +_Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, which +sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out, +as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_. + + +27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ and +Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their +_Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alone +in their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_, +sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'd +in _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange, +Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some of +them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome +_Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c. + + +28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_ +and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with +almost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to help +Conception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (by +which it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yet +think it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in +_Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst we +absolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of its +intolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that the +eating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as had +committed the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats, +nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the +Dish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler +_Roccombo_. + +_Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its +fierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_. + + +Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_. + + +29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in +_Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast, +and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_. + + +30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for +_Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eaten +raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: They +are _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions. + + +31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran, +Mary-gold_, &c. as all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in +_Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalent +against Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Names +of _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, than +the tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, are +by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; +communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy. + + +32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many Medicinal +Properties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by Country +People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges. + + +33. Leeks, and _Cibbols, Porrum_; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since +_Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eat +them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to +the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender +and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See +_Onion_. + + +34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_, +(to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of +its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principal +Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and +Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem +with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and +enobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_. + +It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet +less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in +Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites +Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates +Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals, +_Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was) +from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the +most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients +called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great +[20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness +to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to +this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor +[21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other +Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to +say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_. +How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells +himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and +concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In +a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_ +store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome +to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual +_Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not +so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_, +or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported +to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture +of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our +Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly +Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_; +for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of +_Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, +Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all +the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or +_Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf, +Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of +the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that +besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest, +there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up +to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and +indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant +_Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd +from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and +taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally +to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of. + + +35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_, +&c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or +bitter. See _Orange_. + + +36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the +_Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, +be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by +the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvae folium +Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_ +and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table: +The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvae salubres corpori_, +approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_, +by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than +_Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_, +that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but +by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_, +tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with +_Butter_. + + +Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See +_Blitum_. + + +37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho' +an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy +and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and +well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the +noblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think +our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet +under the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially they +were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for +_Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours. + +There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly +Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they +drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all +dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been +accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten +in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as +harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with +_Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with +a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to +commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely +cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo. +Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary +_Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe +Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are +very delicate. + + +38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and +warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, +and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the +_Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone +(as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little +_Sugar_. + + +39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terrae_, by _Porphyry +Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_ +Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French, +Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as +some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten +crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to +order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the +very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable +only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen, +they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally +reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without +cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest +Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole +Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Caesarian +Tables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Broma theon], a Dainty fit for +the _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they +have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_ +deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annaeus Serenus_, and +several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the +same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of +this suspicious Dainty) _Quae voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who +indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats +_Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his +Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution, +[Greek: Bare pnigoenta muketon], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenaeus_ +reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three +Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient +warning. + +Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about +_London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we +send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_, +and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl, +and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_ +purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell, +and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord +_Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and +doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these +rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves +insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or +_Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down. +But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage +none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all +concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and +referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other +_Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr. +_Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and +corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in +deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less +pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich, +airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of +about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round +and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated +in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or +Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce, +they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their +Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed +_Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tells +us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and +compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle +it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in +_France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat is +in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings +and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three +Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other +Experiments. + + +40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the +Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of +_Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to +quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling +heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable +_Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aids +Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the +most noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw +_Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In +_Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with +the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter. + + +_Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_. + + +41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the +Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some +eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other +Herbs. + +42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of +_Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd +eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. +Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own +them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd, +they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut +Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to +offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration. +In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable +only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some +commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in +Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold +_Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and +_Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of +_Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or +two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing +the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they +frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only +season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man, +with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented +Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in +[37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the +_Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_ +among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as +whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were +ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them. +Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as +a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which +some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so +highly magnify them. + + +43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set +over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than +their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender +Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in +Pottage. See _Blitum_. + + +44. Orange, _Arantiae_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling, +and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists +Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_ +being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute, +cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best +_succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and +_Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the +Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which +impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon. + + +45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it +self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having +something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the +_Turnep_. + + +46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning +to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_, +enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_. + + +47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd +Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic +Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for +being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such +as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our +_Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) +to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently +adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of +promoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires the +Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only. + +_Indian Capsicum_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the +_Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usual +Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much +more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and +Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable +in our _Sallet_. + +Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become +sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar +to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermented +with a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut +long-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time, +till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it +through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar +_Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very +clean, after having beaten _Indian Capsicum_, before you stamp any thing +in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_, +dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do +_Myrtle-berries_. + + +48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry, +opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_ +in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than +_Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decocted +on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be +admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at +all, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, there +being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_, +we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtful +to the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_. + + +49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, is +our common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so +generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tis +pass'd into a Proverb: + + _L'Insalata non e buon, ne bella_ + _Ove non e la Pimpinella_. + + +But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuine +Element. + + +50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, next +the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and +cooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitable +for hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generally +entertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis +likewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but with +moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, +which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after +it has been boil'd, which Dr. _Muffet_ would have in _Wine_, for +Nourishment. + +The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peeping +Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even during +winter, if it prove not too severe. + +_Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too much +eaten. + + +51. Radish, _Raphanus_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably +accompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots) +are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the +[39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a very +grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: +The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent, +eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are +eaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; and +were indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Roots +whatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Raphanus ex +auro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, that +he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am +sure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe, +innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _Cibus +Illiberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed +(besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the +Prince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ to +the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho' +otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, when +the _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_ +differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter +for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them +more _Nourishing_. + +There is a _Raphanus rusticanus_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_, +of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable +_Antiscorbutic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account +an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are also +the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have +done with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take +_Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to +steep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which has +no bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of +Earthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_ +has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the +_Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides. + + +52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Roots +eaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing. + + +53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with +_Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_. + + +Roccombo. See _Onions_. + + +54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_, +_Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with +our _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are always +welcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of +_Wine_. See _Flowers_. + + +55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'd +and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost +imperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the noble +Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_, +_Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tis +a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the +assiduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannot +therefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; but +principally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not to +domineer. + + +Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergrass_. + + +56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about +_Dover_, &c.) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young and +tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_, +almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and other +excellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing the +Passages, sharpning Appetite, &c. so far preferrable to most of our +hotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, +it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in +_France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have +prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own +Coasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tender +Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_, +it has nothing like it. + + +57. Scalions, _Ascalonia_, _Cepae_; The _French_ call them _Appetites_, +which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes +Concoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold +with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c. + + +58. Scurvy-grass, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially that +of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_, +prevalent in the _Scorbute_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted +in our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indicum_. + + +59. Sellery, _Apium Italicum_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family) +was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) is +an hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_. +The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, as +likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short, +first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, +_Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd +in the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and +_Praetors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to be +given of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the +green in _Fennil_. + + +Shallots. See _Onion_. + + +60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the +Stomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the +_Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor +_Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute. + +This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd, +roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is +very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore +something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects! + + +61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _French +Acetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_ +of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. but the best +is of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning +Appetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is +an _Antiscorbutic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful +a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_, +and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide +_Wood-Sorrel_. + + +62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'd +to eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco._ +Ambassador and his Retinue. + + +63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist; +_Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothing +more nourishing, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. They +are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; but +with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily +boil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which is +done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem +the _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of +the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size. + + +64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftner +kept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a +_Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most +excellent Condiment with _Butter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almost +all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis +_Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and +(tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, and +in all places. + + +Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_. + + +65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrow +dark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only; +and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and +_Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the +Stomach than the Palate. See _Endive_. + + +66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its +domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and much +fitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with +the Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_, +_Primrose-Leaves_, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried +brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as one +of the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes. + + +67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: The +Tops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded our +Composition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highly +cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness +of the Ventricle, _&c._ + + +68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariae_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle, +disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_, +being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or +raw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; +some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the +_Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both +Nourishing and Restorative. + + +69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist, +grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender, +dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_. + + +70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_ +is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. _Pliny_ +speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which +were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is +preferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, being +sown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they do +excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common +_Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud. + +And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable +sort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten +at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best +of _Wheat_. + +Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and +tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and +when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, +season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting the +Dough remain a little to _ferment_, fashion the Paste into Loaves, and +bake it like common Bread. + +Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with +_Sugar_ and _Butter_. + + +71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (like +those of the _Hop_, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_, +which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_. + + +72. Viper-grass, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. tho' +Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_, +_Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. are besides a very sweet +and pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then +peel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with +_Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. as _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. sliced or +whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root +there is hardly growing. + + +73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature of +other _Sorrels_. + + +To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_, +since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest +_Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not to +eat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an +hundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste. + +The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days, +that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; however +it was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root. + +The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the +_Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and +_Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_; +which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broaths +as a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of +_Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant +_Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonaeus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers +of the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd in +Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the +_Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whatever +it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these +add the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. nay, the _Green Poppy_, +by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our +_Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen +to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten +in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust +and strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the +Names of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among the +Learned in _Botany_. + +There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ here +with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large +_Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its +golden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for a +dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with the +ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, that +it did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with their +young Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender, +begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eaten +by the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_ +alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach, +but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which +_Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and +_Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great +vertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of such +effect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time, +us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the _Italians_ +frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_ +(common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_, +and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd, +and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in +_Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but +these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so +others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater +Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cucumber_ +it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than +_Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted. + +To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_, +formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What +if the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, and +challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd, +and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was +dedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we read +of one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinary +Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long before +amass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _Julius +Caesar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In +a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the +_Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on +the Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for +its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb: +_Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which it +only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_, +whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser it +yields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true and +genuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and +a spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristine +Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary; +since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of +the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, _&c._ +and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat. + +But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, +by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid Assa_ our nicer +_Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar +_Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly +believe it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficiently +describ'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out of +Controversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and +_Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ as +nauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others, +assure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce their +Viands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their +_Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of +our own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with +the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the +richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substituted +instead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature. + +And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_ +as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold +_Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, +and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of +_Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understood +according to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) it +has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of +the _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort, +and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together. + +What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of +_Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means, +approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_ +is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because, +say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green, +young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience +shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the +deadly _Cicutae_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. for Garden _Persley_, and +_Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_, +(_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_; +_Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, and +horn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _Palustral +Apium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden +Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them +unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should +not prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of them +annoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_, +offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, and +discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. And +therefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nourishing_ and +_Refreshing_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is, +that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of other +Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are +wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer; +to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that had +sometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannot +therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_ +[48](_Transact. Num._ 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that +all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and +Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_ +(a little chang'd) + + _Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_, + _Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_. + + +The Illustrious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what +[50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the +Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account, +as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_ +or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether it +might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_: +Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_ +feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice should +therefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to the +Leaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as +not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passing +for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill +effects. + +_Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as +_Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses how +much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again, +as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst +Men, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek. +And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga], +and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their +Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides +the _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_, +and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter. +We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by +[51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's +need of all the Senses to determine _Analogically_ concerning the +Vertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _Edule +Plants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_ +Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any other +quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill +and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients, +so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed) +_Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect these +Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be +suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust, +Savour, or Vertue. To this end, + +The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish +Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c._ + +The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be +qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the +_Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such as +repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;) +with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the +more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_ +and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and +Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are +Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breast +and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more +or less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd +in our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general, +that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be the +most soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_ +and almost universal) Contagion the _Scorbute_, to which we of this +Nation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the +_Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and +powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were +enough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, and +proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are +contain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightly +marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_) + + + _If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_ + _Of Temperance and Innocence,_ + _And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind,_ + _Diseases passage find;_ + _They must not think here to assail_ + _A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,_ + _They must fight for it, and dispute it hard,_ + _Before they can prevail;_ + _Scarce any Plant is used here,_ + _Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_. + + +We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_, +every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd +by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_ +and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_ +in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And +tho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and illustrate the rest) +striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile +all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the +Comical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pos +esin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The very +same (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ have +one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care +requir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring and +repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should +be no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting, +as _Athenaeus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn. +lib._ I. _cap._ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this: + + _What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_ + _What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_ + _Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_ + _Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_. + + +As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ for +her _Angelical_ Guest. + +Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_, +_Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the +_Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_ +Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the +_Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no +Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_; +too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which +it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent +_Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd +_Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should +be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes, +according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned +[56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious. + +'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all their +Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of +different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they +different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and +activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of +some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _e contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_, +_Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without +_Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again +_Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek: +skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken +by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and +that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_) +of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls +them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_, +and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes +find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_, +_Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_, +pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands. + + +I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients +be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, +dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather +discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially +_Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, +I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently +protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them +remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture: +And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and +so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_ +following. + + +II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, +as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_) +be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of +a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_, +or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, +light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_, +and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_, +and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes. +Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in its +stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means +to be allow'd. + + +III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly +clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, +whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with +the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_, +_Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant. + +A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name, +or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put +into a small Vessel to ferment. + + +IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_, +as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great +a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes +merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately +dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as +of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without +heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; +provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of +_Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful +_Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be +most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been +so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they +affect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevee_ in lieu of +our vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and +_Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_ +and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_, +_Wormwood_, _Scurvy-grass_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant, +we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, and +all the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say no +more of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeed +there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however +different in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question, +whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_, +unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_, +gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to be +prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) +whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other factitious _Salts_ +of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis +thought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better than +our _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the best +ordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess. + +Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in +_Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet +light and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing, +delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_, +That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to the +Constitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one +for cold, the other for hot stomachs. + + +V. That the _Mustard_ (another noble Ingredient) be of the best +_Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _Yorkshire +Seed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little +(not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of +a Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have been +steep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen +_Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Glass_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_ +over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preserve +the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, to +temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some +esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _Indian +Nasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little +_Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other +_Mustard_ should be. + +_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a +polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most +preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only. + + +VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to +too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here +let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet +Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other +_Peppers_, and more wholsom. + +Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted +to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention +_Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_, +_Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue. + +Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the +_German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling it +with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and +sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_ +and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its +golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt +to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little +incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_. + + +VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_, +boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_, +_Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the +Herbs. + + +VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_, +with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_, +&c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are +apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of. + + +IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes) +be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep +nor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients; +_Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and +_Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there +ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid +_Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they +are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually +stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are +husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt +to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled +and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis +incredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the +gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly +of _Sallet-Herbs_. + +The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and +neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions. + +Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_, +_Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several +Seasons you have in the following Table. + +It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_ +were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them? +we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Principal +Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty +Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving +out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under +these three or four Heads. + +But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and +therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each +containing and lasting Three Months. + +_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no +more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next +Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful. + + * * * * * + +[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their +original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section +headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these +new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually +indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.] + + + ========================================================================= + Species. Ordering and Culture. + ========================================================================= + / 1. _Endive_, Tied-up to Blanch. + | 2. _Cichory_, \ + | 3. _Sellery_, | Earth'd-up + IX. | 4. _Sweet-Fennel_, | + Blanch'd | 5. _Rampions_, / + | + | 6. _Roman_ \ \ Tied-up to Blanch. + | 7. _Cosse_ | _Lettuce,_ | + | 8. _Silesian_ | | Tied close up. + \ 9. _Cabbage_ / / Pome and Blanch of themselves. + + / 10. _Lob-Lettuce_, \ + | 11. _Corn-Sallet_, | Leaves, all of a midling size. + | 12. _Purslane_, / + | + XXVI. | 13. _Cresses_ broad, \ Seed-Leaves, + | 14. _Spinach_, curled, / and the next to them. + | + Green | 15. _Sorrel_, French, \ The fine young Leaves only, + Unblanch'd | 16. _Sorrel_, Greenland, / with the first Shoots. + | + | 17. _Radish_, Only the tender young Leaves. + | 18. _Cresses_, The Seed-Leaves, and those + | only next them. + | 19. _Turnip_, \ + | 20. _Mustard_, | The Seed-Leaves only. + | 21. _Scurvy-grass_, / + | + | 22. _Chervil_, \ The young Leaves + | 23. _Burnet_, | immediately after + | 24. _Rocket_, Spanish, | the Seedlings. + | 25. _Persly_, / + | + | 26. _Tarragon_, \ The tender Shoots + | 27. _Mints_, / and Tops. + | + | 28. _Sampier_, \ + | 29. _Balm_, | The young tender + | 30. _Sage_, Red, / Leaves and Shoots. + | + | 31. _Shalots_, \ + | 32. _Cives_ and _Onion_, / The tender young leaves. + | + | 33. _Nasturtium_, Indian The Flowers and Bud-Flowers. + | + | 34. _Rampion_, Belgrade \ The Seed-Leaves + \ 35. _Trip-Madame_, / and young Tops. + ========================================================================= + + + + + ========================================================================= + Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_. + ========================================================================= + Ordering + and Species. Proportion. + Culture. + + / _Rampions_, / 10 \ + Blanch'd | _Endive_, | 2 | + as before | _Succory_, | 5 | Roots in Number. + | _Fennel_, Sweet. | 10 | + \ _Sellery_, \ 4 / + + / _Lamb-Lettuce_, \ + | _Lob-Lettuce_, / A pugil of each. + | + | _Radish_, \ + | _Cresses_, / Three parts each. + | + | _Turneps_, \ + | _Mustard_, Seedlings, / Of each One part. + | _Scurvy-grass_, + | _Spinach_, Two parts. + | _Sorrel_, Greenland, \ + Green and | _Sorrel_, French | + Unblanch'd | _Chervil_, sweet, | One part of each. + | _Burnet_, | + | _Rocket_, / + | Twenty large Leaves. + | _Tarragon_, + | _Balm_, \ + | _Mint_, / One small part of each. + | _Sampier_, + | _Shalots_, \ + | _Cives_, / Very few + | + | _Cabbage_, Winter. Two pugils or + \ small handfuls. + + ========================================================================= + Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_. + ========================================================================= + Ordering + and Species. Proportion. + Culture. + + / _Lop_, \ \ + Blanch'd | _Silesan_, Winter, | Lettuce. | Of each a pugil. + \ _Roman_, Winter, / / + + / _Radishes_, Three parts. + Green Herbs | _Cresses_, Two parts. + Unblanch'd. | _Purselan_, 1 Fasciat, + | or pretty full gripe + | _Sorrel_, French, Two parts. + Note, _That | _Sampier_, One part. + the young | _Onions_, young. Six parts. + Seedling | _Sage_-tops,_ the Red, Two parts. + Leaves of | + Orange and | _Persley_, \ + Lemon may | _Cresses_, the Indian, | + all these | _Lettuce_, Belgrade, | Of each One part. + months be | _Trip-Madame_, | + mingled with | _Chervil_, sweet / + the Sallet._ | + \ _Burnet_, Two parts. + + ========================================================================= + Month. _July_, _August_, and _September_. + ========================================================================= + Ordering + and Species. Proportion. + Culture. + + Blanch'd, / Silesian _Lettuce_, One whole _Lettuce_. + _and may be | + eaten by | Roman _Lettuce_, \ Two parts. + themselves | _Cress_, / + with some_ | + Nasturtium- \ _Cabbage_, Four parts. + _flowers_. + + / _Cresses_, \ + | _Nasturtium_, / Two parts. + | + | _Purslane_, \ + | _Lop-Lettuce_, / One part. + | + Green Herbs | Belgrade, _or_ \ + _by | Crumpen-_Lettuce_. / Two parts. + themselves | + or mingl'd | _Tarragon_, One part. + with the_ | + Blanch'd. | _Sorrel_, French \ + | _Burnet_, / Two parts of each. + | + \ _Trip-Madame_, One part. + + ========================================================================= + Month. _October_, _November_, and _December_. + ========================================================================= + Ordering + and Species. Proportion. + Culture. + + / _Endive. \ Two if large, four + | _Sellery_, | if small, Stalk and + | | part of the Root and + | / tenderest Leaves. + | + Blanch'd | _Lop-Lettuce_, \ + | _Lambs-Lettuce_, / An handful of each. + | + | _Radish_, Three parts. + \ _Cresses_, Two parts. + + / _Turneps_, \ + | _Mustard_ Seedlings, / One part of each. + Green | + | _Cresses_, broad, \ + \ _Spinach_, / Two parts of each. + + + * * * * * + + + + +_Farther Directions concerning the proper_ Seasons _for the_ Gathering, +Composing, _and_ Dressing _of a_ Sallet. + + +And _First_, as to the _Season_ both _Plants_ and _Roots_ are then +properly to be _Gather'd_, and in prime, when most they abound with +Juice and in Vigour: Some in the _Spring_, or a little anticipating +it before they Blossom, or are in full Flower: Some in the _Autumnal_ +Months; which later Season many prefer, the Sap of the Herb, tho' not in +such exuberance, yet as being then better concocted, and so render'd fit +for _Salleting_, 'till the Spring begins a fresh to put forth new, and +tender Shoots and Leaves. + +This, indeed, as to the _Root_, newly taken out of the Ground is true; +and therefore should such have their _Germination_ stopt the sooner: The +approaching and prevailing Cold, both Maturing and Impregnating them; as +does Heat the contrary, which now would but exhaust them: But for those +other _Esculents_ and Herbs imploy'd in our _Composition_ of _Sallets_, +the early _Spring_, and ensuing Months (till they begin to mount, and +prepare to _Seed_) is certainly the most natural, and kindly Season +to collect and accommodate them for the Table. Let none then consult +_Culpeper_, or the _Figure-flingers_, to inform them when the governing +_Planet_ is in its _Exaltation_; but look upon the _Plants_ themselves, +and judge of their Vertues by their own Complexions. + +Moreover, in _Gathering_, Respect is to be had to their Proportions, +as provided for in the _Table_ under that Head, be the Quality +whatsoever: For tho' there is indeed nothing more wholsome than +_Lettuce_ and _Mustard_ for the _Head_ and _Eyes_; yet either of them +eaten in excess, were highly prejudicial to them both: Too much of +the _first_ extreamly debilitating and weakning the _Ventricle_, and +hastning the further decay of sickly _Teeth_; and of the _second_ the +_Optic Nerves_, and _Sight_ it self; the like may be said of all the +rest. I conceive therefore, a Prudent Person, well acquainted with the +Nature and Properties of _Sallet-Herbs_, &c. to be both the fittest +_Gatherer_ and _Composer_ too; which yet will require no great Cunning, +after once he is acquainted with our _Table_ and _Catalogue_. + +We purposely, and _in transitu_ only, take notice here of the Pickl'd, +_Muriated_, or otherwise prepared Herbs; excepting some such Plants, +and Proportions of them, as are of hard digestion, and not fit to be +eaten altogether _Crude_, (of which in the _Appendix_) and among which +I reckon _Ash-keys_, _Broom-buds_ and _Pods_, _Haricos_, _Gurkems_, +_Olives_, _Capers_, the Buds and Seeds of _Nasturtia_, _Young +Wall-nuts_, _Pine-apples_, _Eringo_, _Cherries_, _Cornelians_, +_Berberries_, _&c._ together with several Stalks, Roots, and Fruits; +Ordinary Pot-herbs, _Anis_, _Cistus Hortorum_, _Horminum_, _Pulegium_, +_Satureia_, _Thyme_; the intire Family of Pulse and _Legumena_; or other +_Sauces_, _Pies_, _Tarts_, _Omlets_, _Tansie_, _Farces_, &c. _Condites_ +and Preserves with _Sugar_ by the Hand of Ladies; tho' they are all +of them the genuine Production of the _Garden_, and mention'd in our +_Kalendar_, together with their Culture; whilst we confine our selves +to such Plants and _Esculenta_ as we find at hand; delight our selves +to gather, and are easily prepar'd for an _Extemporary Collation_, +or to Usher in, and Accompany other (more Solid, tho' haply not more +Agreeable) Dishes, as the Custom is. + +But there now starts up a Question, Whether it were better, or more +proper, to _Begin_ with _Sallets_, or End and Conclude with them? Some +think the harder Meats should first be eaten for better Concoction; +others, those of easiest Digestion, to make way, and prevent +Obstruction; and this makes for our _Sallets_, _Horarii_, and _Fugaces +Fructus_ (as they call 'em) to be eaten first of all, as agreeable to +the general Opinion of the great _Hippocrates_, and _Galen_, and of +_Celsus_ before him. And therefore the _French_ do well, to begin with +their _Herbaceous Pottage_, and for the _Cruder_, a Reason is given: + + [60]_Prima tibi dabitur Ventri_ Lactuca _movendo_ + _Utilis, & Poris fila refecta suis_. + + +And tho' this Custom came in about Domitian's time[61], [Greek: ho m +arkaioi], they anciently did quite the contrary, + + [62]_Grataque nobilium Lactuca ciborum_. + + +But of later Times, they were constant at the _Ante-coenia_, eating +plentifully of _Sallet_, especially of _Lettuce_, and more refrigerating +Herbs. Nor without Cause: For drinking liberally they were found to +expell, and allay the Fumes and Vapors of the _genial Compotation_, the +spirituous Liquor gently conciliating Sleep: Besides, that being of a +crude nature, more dispos'd, and apt to fluctuate, corrupt, and disturb +a surcharg'd Stomach; they thought convenient to begin with _Sallets_, +and innovate the ancient Usage. + + [63]----_Nam Lactuca innatat acri_ + _Post Vinum Stomacho_---- + + For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat, + It floats upon the Stomach---- + + +The _Spaniards_, notwithstanding, eat but sparingly of Herbs at Dinner, +especially _Lettuce_, beginning with _Fruit_, even before the _Olio_ and +Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine pure, and eating the +best Bread in the World; so as it seems the Question still remains +undecided with them, + + [64]_Claudere quae coenas_ Lactuca _solebat avorum_ + _Dic mihi cur nostras inchoat illa dapes?_ + + The _Sallet_, which of old came in at last, + Why now with it begin we our Repast? + + +And now since we mention'd _Fruit_, there rises another Scruple: +Whether _Apples_, _Pears_, _Abricots_, _Cherries_, _Plums_, and other +Tree, and _Ort-yard-Fruit_, are to be reckon'd among _Salleting_; and +when likewise most seasonably to be eaten? But as none of these do +properly belong to our _Catalogue_ of _Herbs_ and _Plants_, to which +this Discourse is confin'd (bessides what we may occasionally speak of +hereafter) there is a very useful [65]Treatise on that Subject already +publish'd. We hasten then in the next place to the _Dressing_, and +_Composing_ of our Sallet: For by this time, our Scholar may long to +see the _Rules_ reduc'd to _Practice_, and Refresh himself with what +he finds growing among his own _Lactuceta_ and other Beds of the +_Kitchin-Garden_. + + + * * * * * + + + + +DRESSING + + +I am not ambitious of being thought an excellent _Cook_, or of those who +set up, and value themselves, for their skill in _Sauces_; such as was +_Mithacus_ a _Culinary Philosopher_, and other _Eruditae Gulae_; who read +Lectures of _Hautgouts_, like the _Archestratus_ in _Athenaeus_: Tho' +after what we find the _Heroes_ did of old, and see them chining out the +slaughter'd _Ox_, dressing the Meat, and do the Offices of both _Cook_ +and _Butcher_, (for so [66]_Homer_ represents _Achilles_ himself, and +the rest of those Illustrious _Greeks_) I say, after this, let none +reproach our _Sallet-Dresser_, or disdain so clean, innocent, sweet, and +Natural a Quality; compar'd with the Shambles Filth and _Nidor_, Blood +and Cruelty; whilst all the World were _Eaters_, and _Composers_ of +_Sallets_ in its best and brightest Age. + +The Ingredients therefore gather'd and proportion'd, as above; Let the +_Endive_ have all its out-side Leaves stripped off, slicing _in_ the +White: In like manner the _Sellery_ is also to have the hollow green +Stem or Stalk trimm'd and divided; slicing-in the blanched Part, and +cutting the Root into four equal Parts. + +_Lettuce_, _Gresses_, _Radish_, &c. (as was directed) must be +exquisitely pick'd, cleans'd, wash'd, and put into the Strainer; +swing'd, and shaken gently, and, if you please, separately, or all +together; Because some like not so well the _Blanch'd_ and Bitter +Herbs, if eaten with the rest: Others mingle _Endive_, _Succory_, and +_Rampions_, without distinction, and generally eat _Sellery_ by it +self, as also Sweet _Fennel_. + +From _April_ till _September_ (and during all the Hot _Months_) may +_Guinny-Pepper_, and _Horse-Radish_ be left out; and therefore we only +mention them in the Dressing, which should be in this manner. + +Your _Herbs_ being handsomely parcell'd, and spread on a clean Napkin +before you, are to be mingl'd together in one of the Earthen glaz'd +Dishes: Then, for the _Oxoleon_; Take of clear, and perfectly good +_Oyl-Olive_, three Parts; of sharpest _Vinegar_ ([67]sweetest of all +_Condiments_) _Limon_, or Juice of _Orange_, one Part; and therein let +steep some Slices of _Horse-Radish_, with a little _Salt_; Some in a +separate _Vinegar_, gently bruise a _Pod_ of _Guinny-Pepper_, straining +both the _Vinegars_ apart, to make Use of Either, or One alone, or of +both, as they best like; then add as much _Tewkesbury_, or other dry +_Mustard_ grated, as will lie upon an Half-Crown Piece: Beat, and mingle +all these very well together; but pour not on the _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, +'till immediately before the _Sallet_ is ready to be eaten: And then +with the _Yolk_ of two new-laid _Eggs_ (boyl'd and prepar'd, as before +is taught) squash, and bruise them all into mash with a Spoon; and +lastly, pour it all upon the _Herbs_, stirring, and mingling them 'till +they are well and throughly imbib'd; not forgetting the Sprinklings of +_Aromaticks_, and such Flowers, as we have already mentioned, if you +think fit, and garnishing the Dish with the thin Slices of +_Horse-Radish_, _Red Beet_, _Berberries_, &c. + +_Note_, That the _Liquids_ may be made more, or less _Acid_, as is most +agreeable to your Taste. + + +These _Rules_, and _Prescriptions_ duly _Observ'd_; you have a _Sallet_ +(for a Table of Six or Eight Persons) _Dress'd_, and Accommodated +_secundum Artem_: For, as the [68]Proverb has it, + + [Greek: 'Ou oantos andros esin artusai kalos.] + _Non est cujusvis recte condire_. + + +And now after all we have advanc'd in favour of the _Herbaceous_ Diet, +there still emerges a third Inquiry; namely, Whether the Use of _Crude +Herbs_ and _Plants_ are so wholesom as is pretended? + +What Opinion the Prince of Physicians had of them, we shall see +hereafter; as also what the Sacred Records of elder Times seem to infer, +before there were any Flesh-Shambles in the World; together with the +Reports of such as are often conversant among many Nations and People, +who to this Day, living on _Herbs_ and _Roots_, arrive to incredible +Age, in constant Health and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the +_Air_ and _Climate_, _Custom_, _Constitution_, &c. should be inquir'd +into; especially, when we compare the _Antediluvians_ mention'd _Gen._ +1. 29--the whole _Fifth_ and _Ninth_ Chapters, _ver._ 3. confining them +to _Fruit_ and wholesom Sallets: I deny not that both the _Air_ and +_Earth_ might then be less humid and clammy, and consequently Plants, +and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and less Rheumatick, than since, +and presently after; to say nothing of the infinite Numbers of putrid +Carcasses of Dead Animals, perishing in the Flood, (of which I find +few, if any, have taken notice) which needs must have corrupted the +Air: Those who live in Marshes, and Uliginous Places (like the Hundreds +of _Essex_) being more obnoxious to _Fevers_, _Agues_, _Pleurisies_, +and generally unhealthful: The Earth also then a very Bog, compar'd +with what it likely was before that destructive _Cataclysm_, when +Men breath'd the pure _Paradisian_ Air, sucking in a more _aethereal_, +nourishing, and baulmy _Pabulum_, so foully vitiated now, thro' the +Intemperance, Luxury, and softer Education and Effeminacy of the +Ages since. + +_Custom_, and _Constitution_ come next to be examin'd, together with +the Qualities, and _Vertue_ of the Food; and I confess, the two first, +especially that of _Constitution_, seems to me the more likely Cause of +Health, and consequently of Long-life; which induc'd me to consider of +what Quality the usual _Sallet_ Furniture did more eminently consist, +that so it might become more safely applicable to the Temper, Humour, +and Disposition of our Bodies; according to which, the various Mixtures +might be regulated and proportion'd: There's no doubt, but those whose +Constitutions are Cold and Moist, are naturally affected with Things +which are Hot and Dry; as on the contrary, Hot, and Dry Complexions, +with such as cool and refrigerate; which perhaps made the _Junior +Gordian_ (and others like him) prefer the _frigidae Mensae_ (as of old +they call'd _Sallets_) which, according to _Cornelius Celsus_, is the +fittest Diet for _Obese_ and Corpulent Persons, as not so Nutritive, and +apt to Pamper: And consequently, that for the Cold, Lean, and Emaciated; +such Herby Ingredients should be made choice of, as warm, and cherish +the Natural Heat, depure the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive +the Spirits: And therefore my _Lord_ [69]_Bacon_ shews what are best +Raw, what Boil'd, and what Parts of Plants fittest to nourish. _Galen_ +indeed seems to exclude them all, unless well accompanied with their due +Correctives, of which we have taken care: Notwithstanding yet, that even +the most _Crude_ and _Herby_, actually Cold and Weak, may potentially be +Hot, and Strengthning, as we find in the most vigorous Animals, whose +Food is only Grass. 'Tis true indeed, Nature has providentially mingl'd, +and dress'd a _Sallet_ for them in every field, besides what they +distinguish by Smell; nor question I, but Man at first knew what Plants +and Fruits were good, before the Fall, by his Natural Sagacity, and not +Experience; which since by Art, and Trial, and long Observation of their +Properties and Effects, they hardly recover: But in all Events, +supposing with [70]_Cardan_, that Plants nourish little, they hurt as +little. Nay, Experience tells us, that they not only hurt not at all, +but exceedingly benefit those who use them; indu'd as they are with such +admirable Properties as they every day discover: For some Plants not +only nourish laudably, but induce a manifest and wholesom Change; as +_Onions_, _Garlick_, _Rochet_, &c. which are both nutritive and warm; +_Lettuce_, _Purselan_, the _Intybs_, &c. and indeed most of the _Olera_, +refresh and cool: And as their respective Juices being converted into +the Substances of our Bodies, they become _Aliment_; so in regard of +their Change and Alteration, we may allow them _Medicinal_; especially +the greater Numbers, among which we all this while have skill but of +very few (not only in the Vegetable Kingdom, but in the whole _Materia +Medica_) which may be justly call'd _Infallible Specifics_, and upon +whose Performance we may as safely depend, as we may on such as +familiarly we use for a Crude _Herb-Sallet;_ discreetly chosen, mingl'd, +and dress'd accordingly: Not but that many of them may be improv'd, and +render'd better in Broths, and Decoctions, than in _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, +and other Liquids and Ingredients: But as this holds not in all, nay, +perhaps in few comparatively, (provided, as I said, the Choice, Mixture, +Constitution, and _Season_ rightly be understood) we stand up in Defence +and Vindication of our _Sallet_, against all Attacks and Opposers +whoever. + +We have mentioned _Season_ and with the great _Hippocrates_, pronounce +them more proper for the Summer, than the Winter; and when those Parts +of Plants us'd in _Sallet_ are yet tender, delicate, and impregnated +with the Vertue of the Spring, to cool, refresh, and allay the Heat and +Drought of the Hot and _Bilious_, Young and over-_Sanguine_, Cold, +_Pituit_, and Melancholy; in a word, for Persons of all Ages, Humours, +and Constitutions whatsoever. + +To this of the _Annual Seasons_, we add that of _Culture_ also, as of +very great Importance: And this is often discover'd in the taste and +consequently in the Goodness of such Plants and _Salleting_, as are +Rais'd and brought us fresh out of the Country, compar'd with those +which the Avarice of the _Gardiner_, or Luxury rather of the Age, tempts +them to force and _Resuscitate_ of the most desirable and delicious +Plants. + +It is certain, says a [71]Learned Person, that about populous Cities, +where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early _Salleting_, nothing +is more unwholsom: Men in the Country look so much more healthy and +fresh; and commonly are longer liv'd than those who dwell in the Middle +and Skirts of vast and crowded Cities, inviron'd with rotten Dung, +loathsome and common Lay Stalls; whose noisome Steams, wafted by the +Wind, poison and infect the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with those +pernicious Exhalations, and Materials of which they make the _Hot Beds_ +for the raising those _Praecoces_ indeed, and forward Plants and Roots +for the wanton Palate; but which being corrupt in the Original, cannot +but produce malignant and ill Effects to those who feed upon them. And +the same was well observ'd by the _Editor_ of our famous _Roger Bacon's_ +Treatise concerning the _Cure of Old Age_, and _Preservation of Youth_: +There being nothing so proper for _Sallet Herbs_ and other _Edule +Plants_, as the Genial and Natural Mould, impregnate, and enrich'd +with well-digested Compost (when requisite) without any Mixture of +Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half consum'd and +ventilated and indeed reduc'd to the next Disposition of Earth it self, +as it should be; and that in Sweet, [72]Rising, Aery and moderately +Perflatile Grounds; where not only _Plants_ but _Men_ do last, and live +much longer. Nor doubt I, but that every body would prefer Corn, and +other Grain rais'd from _Marle_, _Chalk_, _Lime_, and other sweet Soil +and Amendments, before that which is produc'd from the _Dunghil_ only. +Beside, Experience shews, that the Rankness of _Dung_ is frequently the +Cause of Blasts and Smuttiness; as if the _Lord_ of the _Universe_, +by an Act of visible Providence would check us, to take heed of all +unnatural Sordidness and Mixtures. We sensibly find this Difference +in Cattle and their Pasture; but most powerfully in _Fowl_, from such +as are nourish'd with Corn, sweet and dry Food: And as of Vegetable +_Meats_, so of _Drinks_, 'tis observ'd, that the same Vine, according +to the Soil, produces a _Wine_ twice as heady as in the same, and a +less forc'd Ground; and the like I believe of all other Fruit, not to +determine any thing of the _Peach_ said to be Poison in _Persia_; +because 'tis a _Vulgar Error_. + +Now, because among other things, nothing more betrays its unclean and +spurious Birth than what is so impatiently longed after as _Early +Asparagus_, &c. [73]Dr. _Lister_, (according to his communicative and +obliging Nature) has taught us how to raise such as our _Gardiners_ +cover with nasty Litter, during the Winter; by rather laying of +Clean and Sweet _Wheat-Straw_ upon the Beds, _super-seminating_ and +over-strowing them thick with the Powder of bruised _Oyster-Shells_, +&c. to produce that most tender and delicious _Sallet_. In the mean +while, if nothing will satisfie save what is rais'd _Ex tempore_, and +by Miracles of Art so long before the time; let them study (like the +_Adepti_) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew; That having +some Friends of his accidentally come to Dine with him, and wanting an +early Sallet, Before they sate down to Table, sowed _Lettuce_ and some +other Seeds in a certain Composition of Mould he had prepared; which +within the space of two Hours, being risen near two Inches high, +presented them with a delicate and tender _Sallet_; and this, without +making use of any nauseous or fulsome Mixture; but of Ingredients not +altogether so cheap perhaps. _Honoratus Faber_ (no mean _Philosopher_) +shews us another Method by sowing the Seeds steep'd in _Vinegar_, +casting on it a good quantity of _Bean-Shell_ Ashes, irrigating them +with _Spirit of Wine_, and keeping the Beds well cover'd under dry +Matts. Such another Process for the raising early _Peas_ and _Beans_, +&c. we have the like [74]Accounts of: But were they practicable and +certain, I confess I should not be fonder of them, than of such as +the honest industrious Country-man's Field, and Good Wife's Garden +seasonably produce; where they are legitimately born in just time, +and without forcing Nature. + +But to return again to _Health_ and _Long Life_, and the Wholesomness +of the Herby-Diet, [75]_John Beverovicius_, a Learn'd Physician (out of +_Peter Moxa_, a _Spaniard_) treating of the extream Age, which those of +_America_ usually arrive to, asserts in behalf of Crude and Natural +Herbs: _Diphilus_ of old, as [76]_Athenaeus_ tells us, was on the other +side, against all the Tribe of _Olera_ in general; and _Cardan_ of late +(as already noted) no great Friend to them; Affirming Flesh-Eaters to +be much wiser and more sagacious. But this his [77]Learned Antagonist +utterly denies; Whole Nations, Flesh-Devourers (such as the farthest +_Northern_) becoming Heavy, Dull, Unactive, and much more Stupid than +the _Southern_; and such as feed much on Plants, are more Acute, Subtil, +and of deeper Penetration: Witness the _Chaldaeans_, _Assyrians_, +_AEgyptians_, &c. And further argues from the short Lives of most +_Carnivorous_ Animals, compared with Grass Feeders, and the Ruminating +kind; as the _Hart_, _Camel_, and the longaevous _Elephant_, and other +Feeders on Roots and Vegetables. + +I know what is pretended of our Bodies being composed of _Dissimilar_ +Parts, and so requiring Variety of Food: Nor do I reject the Opinion, +keeping to the same _Species_; of which there is infinitely more Variety +in the _Herby_ Family, than in all Nature bessides: But the Danger is in +the _Generical_ Difference of _Flesh_, _Fish_, _Fruit_, &c. with other +made Dishes and exotic Sauces; which a wanton and expensive Luxury has +introduc'd; debauching the Stomach, and sharpening it to devour things +of such difficult Concoction, with those of more easie Digestion, and of +contrary Substances, more than it can well dispose of: Otherwise Food of +the same kind would do us little hurt: So true is that of [78]_Celsus_, +_Eduntur facilius; ad concoctionem autem materiae, genus, & modus +pertineat_. They are (says he) easily eaten and taken in: But regard +should be had to their Digestion, Nature, Quantity and Quality of the +Matter. As to that of _Dissimilar_ Parts, requiring this contended for +Variety: If we may judge by other Animals (as I know not why we may not) +there is (after all the late Contests about _Comparative Anatomy_) so +little Difference in the Structure, as to the Use of those Parts and +Vessels destin'd to serve the Offices of Concoction, Nutrition, and +other Separations for Supply of Life, _&c._ That it does not appear +why there should need any Difference at all of Food; of which the most +simple has ever been esteem'd the best, and most wholsome; according +to that of the [79]Naturalist, _Hominis cibus utilissimus simplex_. +And that so it is in other Animals, we find by their being so seldom +afflicted with Mens Distempers, deriv'd from the Causes above-mentioned: +And if the many Diseases of _Horses_ seem to [80]contradict it, I am apt +to think it much imputable to the Rack and Manger, the dry and wither'd +Stable Commons, which they must eat or starve, however qualified; being +restrained from their Natural and Spontaneous Choice, which Nature +and Instinct directs them to: To these add the Closeness of the Air, +standing in an almost continu'd Posture; besides the fulsome Drenches, +unseasonable Watrings, and other Practices of ignorant _Horse-Quacks_ +and surly Grooms: The Tyranny and cruel Usage of their Masters in tiring +Journeys, hard, labouring and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, Colds, +_&c._ which wear out and destroy so many of those useful and generous +Creatures before the time: Such as have been better us'd, and some, whom +their more gentle and good-natur'd Patrons have in recompence of their +long and faithful service, dismiss'd, and sent to Pasture for the rest +of their Lives (as the _Grand Seignior_ does his _Meccha-Camel_) have +been known to live _forty_, _fifty_, nay (says [81]_Aristotle_,) no fewer +than _sixty five_ Years. When once Old _Par_ came to change his simple, +homely Diet, to that of the _Court_ and _Arundel-House_, he quickly sunk +and dropt away: For, as we have shew'd, the Stomack easily concocts +plain, and familiar Food; but finds it an hard and difficult Task, to +vanquish and overcome Meats of [82]different Substances: Whence we so +often see temperate and abstemious Persons, of a Collegiate Diet, very +healthy; Husbandsmen and laborious People, more robust, and longer liv'd +than others of an uncertain extravagant Diet. + + [83]----_Nam variae res_ + _Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius escae,_ + _Quae simplex olim tibi sederit_---- + + For different Meats do hurt; + Remember how + When to one Dish confin'd, thou + healthier wast than now: + + +was _Osellus's Memorandum_ in the Poet. + +Not that variety (which God has certainly ordain'd to delight and assist +our Appetite) is unnecessary, nor any thing more grateful, refreshing +and proper for those especially who lead sedentary and studious Lives; +Men of deep Thought, and such as are otherwise disturb'd with Secular +Cares and Businesses, which hinders the Function of the Stomach and +other Organs: whilst those who have their Minds free, use much Exercise, +and are more active, create themselves a natural Appetite, which needs +little or no Variety to quicken and content it. + +And here might we attest the _Patriarchal_ World, nay, and many +Persons since; who living very temperately came not much short of the +_Post-Diluvians_ themselves, counting from _Abraham_ to this Day; and +some exceeding them, who liv'd in pure Air, a constant, tho' course and +simple Diet; wholsome and uncompounded Drink; that never tasted _Brandy_ +or _Exotic Spirits_; but us'd moderate Exercise, and observ'd good +Hours: For such a one a curious Missionary tells us of in Persia; who +had attain'd the Age of _four hundred_ Years, (a full _Century_ beyond +the famous _Johannes de Temporibus_) and was living _Anno_ 1636, and so +may be still for ought we know. But, to our Sallet. + +Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining [84]_Herbs_ and _Fruit_ for the +Food of Men, speaks not a Word concerning _Flesh_ for two thousand +Years. And when after, by the _Mosaic_ Constitution, there were +Distinctions and Prohibitions about the legal Uncleanness of _Animals_; +_Plants_, of what kind soever, were left free and indifferent for every +one to choose what best he lik'd. And what if it was held undecent and +unbecoming the Excellency of Man's Nature, before Sin entred, and grew +enormously wicked, that any Creature should be put to Death and Pain for +him who had such infinite store of the most delicious and nourishing +Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to sustain him? Doubtless there +was no need of it. Infants sought the Mother's Nipple as soon as born; +and when grown, and able to feed themselves, run naturally to Fruit, and +still will choose to eat it rather than Flesh and certainly might so +persist to do, did not Custom prevail, even against the very Dictates of +Nature: Nor, question I, but that what the Heathen [85]_Poets_ recount +of the Happiness of the _Golden Age_, sprung from some Tradition they +had received of the _Paradisian_ Fare, their innocent and healthful +Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it suffice, that _Adam_, and his +yet innocent Spouse, fed on Vegetables and other Hortulan Productions +before the fatal Lapse; which, by the way, many Learned Men will hardly +allow to have fallen out so soon as those imagine who scarcely grant +them a single Day; nay, nor half a one, for their Continuance in the +State of Original Perfection; whilst the sending him into the Garden; +Instructions how he should keep and cultivate it; Edict, and Prohibition +concerning the _Sacramental_ Trees; the Imposition of [86]Names, so +apposite to the Nature of such an Infinity of Living Creatures +(requiring deep Inspection) the Formation of _Eve_, a meet Companion to +relieve his Solitude; the Solemnity of their Marriage; the Dialogues and +Success of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot reasonably think made but +one Assault: And that they should so quickly forget the Injunction of +their Maker and Benefactor; break their Faith and Fast, and all other +their Obligations in so few Moments. I say, all these Particulars +consider'd; Can it be supposed they were so soon transacted as those do +fancy, who take their Measure from the Summary _Moses_ gives us, who did +not write to gratifie Mens Curiosity, but to transmit what was necessary +and sufficient for us to know. + +This then premis'd (as I see no Reason why it should not) and that +during all this Space they liv'd on _Fruits_ and _Sallets_; 'tis little +probable, that after their Transgression, and that they had forfeited +their Dominion over the Creature (and were sentenc'd and exil'd to a +Life of Sweat and Labour on a cursed and ungrateful Soil) the offended +God should regale them with Pampering _Flesh_, or so much as suffer +them to slay the more innocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they had +Permission, it was for any thing save Skins to cloath them, or in way of +Adoration, or _Holocaust_ for Expiation, of which nothing of the _Flesh_ +was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themselves subsist by Prey (tho' +pleas'd perhaps with Hunting, without destroying their Fellow Creatures) +as may be presum'd from their long Seclusion of the most Carnivorous +among them in the Ark. + +Thus then for two thousand Years, the Universal Food was _Herbs_ and +_Plants_; which abundantly recompens'd the Want of _Flesh_ and other +luxurious Meats, which shortened their Lives so many hundred Years; the +[87][Greek: makro-biote-a] of the Patriarchs, which was an Emblem of +Eternity as it were (after the new Concession) beginning to dwindle to +a little Span, a Nothing in Comparison. + +On the other side, examine we the present Usages of several other +Heathen Nations; particularly (bessides the _aegyptian_ Priests of old) +the _Indian Bramins_, Relicts of the ancient _Gymnosophists_ to this +Day, observing the Institutions of their Founder. _Flesh_, we know was +banish'd the _Platonic_ Tables, as well as from those of _Pythagoras_; +(See [88]_Porphyry_ and their Disciples) tho' on different Accounts. +Among others of the Philosophers, from _Xenocrates_, _Polemon_, &c. we +hear of many. The like we find in [89]_Clement Alexand._ [90]_Eusebius_ +names more. _Zeno_, _Archinomus_, _Phraartes_, _Chiron_, and others, +whom _Laertius_ reckons up. In short, so very many, especially of the +Christian Profession, that some, even of the ancient [91]Fathers +themselves, have almost thought that the Permission of eating Flesh to +_Noah_ and his Sons, was granted them no otherwise than _Repudiation_ of +Wives was to the _Jews_, namely, for _the Hardness of their Hearts_, and +to satisfie a murmuring Generation that a little after loathed _Manna_ +it self, and _Bread from Heaven_. So difficult a thing it is to subdue +an unruly Appetite; which notwithstanding [92]_Seneca_ thinks not so +hard a Task; where speaking of the Philosopher _Sextius_, and _Socion's_ +(abhorring Cruelty and Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the +_Herby_ and _Sallet_ Diet, as _Physical_, and _Natural_ Advancers of +Health and other Blessings; whilst Abstinence from Flesh deprives Men of +nothing but what _Lions_, _Vultures_, Beasts and birds of Prey, blood +and gorge themselves withal, The whole _Epistle_ deserves the Reading, +for the excellent Advice he gives on this and other Subjects; and how +from many troublesome and slavish Impertinencies, grown into Habit and +Custom (old as he was) he had Emancipated and freed himself: Be this +apply'd to our present excessive Drinkers of Foreign and _Exotic_ +Liquors. And now + +I am sufficiently sensible how far, and to how little purpose I am gone +on this _Topic_: The Ply is long since taken, and our raw _Sallet_ deckt +in its best Trim, is never like to invite Men who once have tasted +_Flesh_ to quit and abdicate a Custom which has now so long obtain'd. +Nor truly do I think Conscience at all concern'd in the Matter, upon any +Account of Distinction of _Pure_ and _Impure_; tho' seriously consider'd +(as _Sextius_ held) _rationi magis congrua_, as it regards the cruel +Butcheries of so many harmless Creatures; some of which we put to +merciless and needless Torment, to accommodat them for exquisite and +uncommon _Epicurism_. There lies else no positive Prohibition; +Discrimination of Meats being [93]Condemn'd as the _Doctrine of Devils_: +Nor do Meats _commend us to God_. One eats _quid vult_ (of every thing:) +another _Olera_, and of _Sallets_ only: But this is not my Business, +further than to shew how possible it is by so many Instances and +Examples, to live on wholsome Vegetables, both long and happily: For so + + [94]_The_ Golden Age, _with this Provision blest,_ + _Such a_ Grand Sallet _made, and was a Feast._ + _The_ Demi-Gods _with Bodies large and sound,_ + _Commended then the Product of the Ground._ + _Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Lust_, + _Which Over-heating and Intemp'rance nurst:_ + _Be their vile Names in Execration held,_ + _Who with foul Glutt'ny first the World defil'd:_ + _Parent of Vice, and all Diseases since,_ + _With ghastly Death sprung up alone from thence._ + _Ah, from such reeking, bloody Tables fly,_ + _Which Death for our Destruction does supply._ + _In_ Health, _if_ Sallet-Herbs _you can't endure;_ + _Sick, you'll desire them; or for_ Food, _or_ Cure. + + +As to the other part of the Controversie, which concerns us, [Greek: +aimatophagoi], and _Occidental Blood_-Eaters; some Grave and Learn'd +Men of late seem to scruple the present Usage, whilst they see the +Prohibition appearing, and to carry such a Face of _Antiquity_, +[95]_Scripture_, [96]_Councils_, [97]_Canons_, [98]_Fathers_; _Imperial +Constitutions_, and _Universal Practice_, unless it be among us of these +Tracts of _Europe_, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eating +the _Blood_ and _Animal_ Life of Creatures first was brought; and by +our Mixtures with the _Goths_, _Vandals_, and other Spawn of Pagan +_Scythians_; grown a Custom, and since which I am persuaded more Blood +has been shed between _Christians_ than there ever was before the Water +of the Flood covered this Corner of the World: Not that I impute it +only to our eating _Blood_; but sometimes wonder how it hap'ned that +so strict, so solemn and famous a _Sanction_ not upon a _Ceremonial +Account_; but (as some affirm) a _Moral_ and _Perpetual_ from _Noah_, +to whom the Concession of eating _Flesh_ was granted, and that of Blood +forbidden (nor to this Day once revok'd) and whilst there also seems +to lie fairer Proofs than for most other Controversies agitated among +_Christians_, should be so generally forgotten, and give place to so +many other impertinent Disputes and Cavels about other superstitious +Fopperies, which frequently end in Blood and cutting of Throats. + +As to the Reason of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruelty +excepted, (and that by _Galen_, and other experienc'd Physicians, +the eating Blood is condemn'd as unwholsome, causing Indigestion and +Obstructions) if a positive Command of _Almighty God_ were not enough, +it seems sufficiently intimated; because _Blood_ was the _Vehicle_ of +the _Life_ and _Animal Soul_ of the Creature: For what other mysterious +Cause, as haply its being always dedicated to _Expiatory Sacrifices_, +&c. it is not for us to enquire. 'Tis said, that _Justin Martyr_ +being asked, why the _Christians_ of his time were permitted the +eating _Flesh_ and not the _Blood_? readily answer'd, That God might +distinguish them from Beasts, which eat them both together. 'Tis +likewise urg'd, that by the _Apostolical Synod_ (when the rest of the +_Jewish_ Ceremonies and Types were abolish'd) this Prohibition was +mention'd as a thing [99]_necessary_, and rank'd with _Idolatry_, which +was not to be local or temporary; but universally injoyn'd to converted +Strangers and _Proselytes_, as well as _Jews_: Nor could the Scandal +of neglecting to observe it, concern them alone, after so many Ages as +it was and still is in continual Use; and those who transgress'd, so +severely punish'd, as by an _Imperial Law_ to be scourg'd to _Blood_ and +Bone: Indeed, so terrible was the Interdiction, that _Idolatry_ excepted +(which was also Moral and perpetual) nothing in Scripture seems to be +more express. In the mean time, to relieve all other Scruples, it does +not, they say, extend to that [Greek: akribeia] of those few diluted +Drops of _Extravasated Blood_, which might happen to tinge the Juice +and Gravy of the Flesh (which were indeed _to strain at a Gnat_) but +to those who devour the _Venal_ and _Arterial Blood_ separately, and +in Quantity, as a choice Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations +and _Apician_ Tables. + +But this, and all the rest will, I fear, seem but _Oleribus verba +facere_, and (as the Proverb goes) be Labour-in-vain to think of +preaching down _Hogs-Puddings_, and usurp the Chair of _Rabby-Busy_: And +therefore what is advanc'd in Countenance of the _Antediluvian_ Diet, +we leave to be ventilated by the Learned, and such as _Curcellaeus_, who +has borrow'd of all the Ancient Fathers, from _Tertullian, Hierom, S. +Chrysostom_, &c. to the later Doctors and Divines, _Lyra_, _Tostatus_, +_Dionysius Carthusianus_, _Pererius_, amongst the _Pontificians_; of +_Peter Martyr_, _Zanchy_, _Aretius_, _Jac. Capellus_, _Hiddiger_, +_Cocceius_, _Bochartus_, &c. amongst the _Protestants_; and _instar +omnium_, by _Salmasius_, _Grotius_, _Vossius_, _Blundel_: In a Word, by +the Learn'd of both Persuasions, favourable enough to these Opinions, +_Cajetan_ and _Calvin_ only excepted, who hold, that as to _Abstinence_ +from _Flesh_, there was no positive Command or Imposition concerning +it; but that the Use of _Herbs_ and _Fruit_ was recommended rather for +Temperance sake, and the Prolongation of Life: Upon which score I am +inclin'd to believe that the ancient [Greek: theraoentai], and other +devout and contemplative Sects, distinguish'd themselves; whose Course +of Life we have at large describ'd in [100]_Philo_ (who liv'd and taught +much in Gardens) with others of the Abstemious _Christians_; among whom, +_Clemens_ brings in St. _Mark_ the _Evangelist_ himself, _James_ our +Lord's Brother. St. _John_, &c. and with several of the devout Sex, the +famous _Diaconesse Olympias_, mention'd by _Palladius_ (not to name +the rest) who abstaining from Flesh, betook themselves to _Herbs_ and +_Sallets_ upon the Account of Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying +it; and concerning which the incomparable _Grotius_ declares ingenuously +his Opinion to be far from censuring, not only those who forbear the +eating _Flesh_ and Blood, _Experimenti Causa_, and for Discipline sake; +but such as forbear _ex Opinione_, and (because it has been the ancient +Custom) provided they blam'd none who freely us'd their Liberty; and I +think he's in the right. + +But leaving this Controversie (_ne nimium extra oleas_) it has often +been objected, that _Fruit_, and _Plants_, and all other things, may +since the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have universally +become _Effoete_, impair'd and diverted of those Nutritious and +transcendent Vertues they were at first endow'd withal: But as this is +begging the Question, and to which we have already spoken; so all are +not agreed that there is any, the least [101]_Decay in Nature_, where +equal Industry and Skill's apply'd. 'Tis true indeed, that the _Ordo +Foliatorum, Feuillantines_ (a late Order of _Ascetic Nuns_) amongst +other Mortifications, made Trial upon the _Leaves_ of _Plants_ alone, +to which they would needs confine themselves; but were not able to go +through that thin and meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir'd whether +they had not first, and from their very Childhood, been fed and brought +up with _Flesh_, and better Sustenance till they enter'd the _Cloyster_; +and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them were allow'd by +their Institution? Wherefore this is nothing to our Modern Use of +_Sallets_, or its Disparagement. In the mean time, that we still think +it not only possible, but likely, and with no great Art or Charge +(taking _Roots_ and _Fruit_ into the Basket) substantially to maintain +Mens Lives in Health and Vigour: For to _this_, and less than this, we +have the Suffrage of the great [102]_Hippocrates_ himself; who thinks, +_ab initio etiam hominum_ (as well as other Animals) _tali victu +usum esse_, and needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconsiderable +Speculation, That since _all Flesh is Grass_ (not in a _Figurative_, +but _Natural_ and _Real_ Sense) _Man_ himself, who lives on _Flesh_, +and I think upon no Earthly Animal whatsoever, but such as feed on +Grass, is nourish'd with them still; and so becoming an _Incarnate +Herb_, and Innocent _Canibal_, may truly be said to devour himself. + +We have said nothing of the _Lotophagi_, and such as (like St. _John_ +the _Baptist_, and other religious _Ascetics_) were Feeders on the +_Summities_ and Tops of Plants: But as divers of those, and others we +have mention'd, were much in times of Streights, Persecutions, and other +Circumstances, which did not in the least make it a Pretence, exempting +them from Labour, and other Humane Offices, by ensnaring Obligations +and vows (never to be useful to the Publick, in whatever Exigency) +so I cannot but take Notice of what a Learned _Critic_ speaking of +Mens neglecting plain and Essential Duties, under Colour of exercising +themselves in a more sublime Course of Piety, and being Righteous above +what is commanded (as those who seclude themselves in Monasteries) that +they manifestly discover excessive Pride, Hatred of their Neighbour, +Impatience of Injuries; to which _add, Melancholy Plots and +Machinations_; and that he must be either stupid, or infected with the +same Vice himself, who admires this [Greek: etheloperiosothreskeia], or +thinks they were for that Cause the more pleasing to God. This being +so, what may we then think of such Armies of _Hermits_, _Monks_ and +_Friers_, who pretending to justifie a mistaken Zeal and meritorious +Abstinence; not only by a peculiar Diet and Distinction of Meats +(which God without Distinction has made the moderate Use of common and +[103]indifferent amongst _Christians_) but by other sordid Usages, and +unnecessary Hardships, wilfully prejudice their Health and Constitution? +and through a singular manner of living, dark and _Saturnine_; whilst +they would seem to abdicate and forsake the World (in Imitation, as they +pretend, of the Ancient _Eremites_) take care to settle, and build their +warm and stately Nests in the most Populous Cities, and Places of +Resort; ambitious doubtless of the Peoples Veneration and Opinion of an +extraordinary Sanclity; and therefore flying the _Desarts_, where there +is indeed no use of them; and flocking to the _Towns_ and _Cities_ where +there is less, indeed none at all; and therefore no Marvel that the +Emperour _Valentinian_ banished them the Cities, and _Constantine +Copronymus_ finding them seditious, oblig'd them to marry, to leave +their Cells, and live as did others. For of these, some there are who +seldom speak, and therefore edifie none; sleep little, and lie hard, are +clad nastily, and eat meanly (and oftentimes that which is unwholsom) +and therefore benefit none; Not because they might not, both for their +own, and the Good of others, and the Publick; but because they will not; +Custom, and a prodigious [104]Sloth accompanying it; which renders it +so far from _Penance_, and the Mortification pretended, that they know +not how to live, or spend their Time otherwise. This, as I have often +consider'd, so was I glad to find it justly perstring'd, and taken +notice of by a [105]Learned Person, amongst others of his useful +Remarks abroad. + +'These, says he, willingly renouncing the innocent Comforts of Life, +plainly shew it to proceed more from a chagrin and morose Humour, than +from any true and serious Principle of sound Religion; which teaches +Men to be useful in their Generations, sociable and communicative, +unaffected, and by no means singular and fantastic in Garb and Habit, +as are these (forsooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call'd) spending +their Days in idle and fruitless Forms, and tedious Repetitions; and +thereby thinking to merit the Reward of those Ancient, and truly pious +_Solitaries_, who, God knows, were driven from their Countries and +Repose, by the Incursions of barbarous Nations (whilst these have no +such Cause) and compell'd to Austerities, not of their own chusing and +making, but the publick Calamity; and to _labour_ with their _Hands_ +for their own, and others necessary Support, as well as with with their +_Prayers_ and holy Lives, Examples to all the World: And some of these +indeed (bessides the _Solitaries_ of the _Thebaid_, who wrought for +abundance of poor Christians, sick, and in Captivity) I might bring +in, as such who deserv'd to have their Names preserv'd; not for their +rigorous Fare, and uncouth Disguises; but for teaching that the Grace +of Temperance and other Vertues, consisted in a cheerful, innocent, +and profitable Conversation. + +And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the _Hortulan Provision_ +has been celebrated for, bessides its Antiquity, Health and _Longaevity_ +of the _Antediluvians_; that Temperance, Frugality, Leisure, Ease, and +innumerable other Vertues and Advantages, which accompany it, are no +less attributable to it. Let us hear our excellent _Botanist_ [106]Mr. +_Ray_. + +'The Use of Plants (says he) is all our Life long of that universal +Importance and Concern, that we can neither live nor subsist in any +Plenty with Decency, or Conveniency or be said to live indeed at all +without them: whatsoever Food is necessary to sustain us, whatsoever +contributes to delight and refresh us, are supply'd and brought forth +out of that plentiful and abundant store: and ah, how much more +innocent, sweet and healthful, is a Table cover'd with these, than with +all the reeking Flesh of butcher'd and slaughter'd Animals: Certainly +Man by Nature was never made to be a _Carnivorous_ Creature; nor is +he arm'd at all for Prey and Rapin, with gag'd and pointed Teeth and +crooked Claws, sharp'ned to rend and tear: But with gentle Hands to +gather Fruit and Vegetables, and with Teeth to chew and eat them: Nor +do we so much as read the Use of _Flesh_ for Food, was at all permitted +him, till after the Universal Deluge, _&c._ + +To this might we add that transporting Consideration, becoming both our +Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely wise and glorious Author of +Nature, who has given to _Plants_ such astonishing Properties; such +fiery Heat in some to warm and cherish, such Coolness in others to +temper and refresh, such pinguid Juice to nourish and feed the Body, +such quickening _Acids_ to compel the Appetite, and grateful vehicles to +court the Obedience of the Palate, such Vigour to renew and support our +natural Strength, such ravishing Flavour and Perfumes to recreate and +delight us: In short, such spirituous and active Force to animate and +revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of Human, and, I had +almost said Heavenly Capacity too. What shall we add more? Our Gardens +present us with them all; and whilst the _Shambles_ are cover'd with +Gore and Stench, our _Sallets_ scape the Insults of the Summer _Fly_, +purifies and warms the Blood against Winter Rage: Nor wants there +Variety in more abundance, than any of the former Ages could shew. + +Survey we their _Bills of Fare_, and Numbers of Courses serv'd up by +_Athenaeus_, drest with all the Garnish of _Nicander_ and other _Grecian_ +Wits: What has the _Roman Grand Sallet_ worth the naming? _Parat +Convivium_, The Guests are nam'd indeed, and we are told, + + ----[107]_Varias, quas habet hortus opes?_ + How richly the Garden's stor'd: + + + _In quibus est Luctuca sedens, & tonsile porrum, + Nee deest ructatrix Mentha, nec herba salax, &c._ + + + * * * * * + + + + +A Goodly Sallet! + + +_Lettuce_, _Leeks_, _Mint_, _Rocket_, _Colewort-Tops_, with _Oyl_ and +_Eggs_, and such an _Hotch-Pot_ following (as the Cook in _Plautus_ +would deservedly laugh at). But how infinitely out-done in this Age of +ours, by the Variety of so many rare _Edules_ unknown to the Ancients, +that there's no room for the Comparison. And, for Magnificence, let +the _Sallet_ drest by the Lady for an Entertainment made by _Jacobus +Catsius_ (describ'd by the Poet [108]_Barlaeus_) shew; not at all yet +out-doing what we every Day almost find at our _Lord Mayor's Table_, and +other great Persons, Lovers of the Gardens; that sort of elegant Cookery +being capable of such wonderful Variety, tho' not altogether wanting +of old, if that be true which is related to us of [109]_Nicomedes_ +a certain King of Bithynia, whose Cook made him a _Pilchard_ (a Fish +he exceedingly long'd for) of a well dissembl'd Turnip, carv'd in its +Shape, and drest with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Pepper_, that so deceiv'd, and +yet pleased the Prince, that he commended it for the best Fish he had +ever eaten. Nor does all this exceed what every industrious _Gardiner_ +may innocently enjoy, as well as the greatest Potentate on Earth. + + Vitellius _his Table, to which every Day_ + _All Courtiers did a constant Tribute pay,_ + _Could nothing more delicious afford_ + _Than Nature's Liberality._ + _Help'd with a little Art and Industry,_ + _Allows the meanest Gard'ners Board,_ + _The Wanton Taste no Fish or Fowl can chuse,_ + _For which the Grape or Melon she would lose._ + _Tho' all th' Inhabitants of Sea and Air._ + _Be lifted in the Glutton's Bill of Fare;_ + _Yet still the_ Sallet, _and the_ Fruit _we see_ + _Plac'd the third Story high in all her Luxury_. + + +So the Sweet [110]_Poet_, whom I can never part with for his Love to +this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me. + +Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance, with which the benign and +bountiful Author of Nature has stor'd the whole Terrestrial World, more +with _Plants_ and _Vegetables_ than with any other Provision whatsoever; +and the Variety not only equal, but by far exceeding the Pleasure +and Delight of Taste (above all the Art of the _Kitchen_, than ever +[111]_Apicius_ knew) seems loudly to call, and kindly invite all her +living Inhabitants (none excepted) who are of gentle Nature, and most +useful, to the same _Hospitable_ and Common-Board, which first she +furnish'd with _Plants_ and _Fruit_, as to their natural and genuine +Pasture; nay, and of the most wild, and savage too _ab origine_: As in +_Paradise_, where, as the _Evangelical_ [112]Prophet adumbrating the +future Glory of the _Catholick Church_, (of which that happy _Garden_ +was the _Antitype_) the _Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and furious Lion, +should eat Grass and Herbs together with the Ox_. But after all, _latet +anguis in herba_, there's a _Snake_ in the Grass; Luxury, and Excess in +our most innocent Fruitions. There was a time indeed when the Garden +furnish'd Entertainments for the most Renown'd Heroes, virtuous and +excellent Persons; till the Blood-thirsty and Ambitious, over-running +the Nations, and by Murders and Rapine rifl'd the World, to transplant +its Luxury to its new Mistriss, _Rome_. Those whom heretofore [113]two +Acres of Land would have satisfied, and plentifully maintain'd; had +afterwards their very Kitchens almost as large as their first +Territories: Nor was that enough: Entire [114]_Forests_ and _Parks_, +_Warrens_ and _Fish-Ponds_, and ample Lakes to furnish their Tables, +so as Men could not live by one another without Oppression: Nay, and +to shew how the best, and most innocent things may be perverted; they +chang'd those frugal and _inemptas Dapes_ of their Ancestors, to that +Height and Profusion; that we read of [115]_Edicts_ and _Sumptuary +Laws_, enacted to restrain even the Pride and Excess of _Sallets_. But +so it was not when the _Pease-Field_ spread a Table for the Conquerors +of the World, and their Grounds were cultivated _Vomere laureato, +& triumphali aratore_: The greatest Princes took the _Spade_ and the +_Plough-Staff_ in the same Hand they held the Sceptre; and the Noblest +[116]Families thought it no Dishonour, to derive their Names from +_Plants_ and _Sallet-Herbs_; They arriv'd, I say to that Pitch of +ingrossing all that was but green, and could be vary'd by the Cook +(_Heu quam prodiga ventris_!) that, as _Pliny_ tells us (_non sine +pudore_, not without blushing) a poor Man could hardly find a _Thistle_ +to dress for his Supper; or what his hungry [117]_Ass_ would not touch, +for fear of pricking his Lips. + +Verily the Luxury of the East ruin'd the greatest Monarchies; first, the +_Persian_, then the _Grecian_, and afterwards _Rome_ her self: By what +Steps, see elegantly describ'd in Old [118]_Gratius_ the _Faliscian_, +deploring his own Age compar'd with the former: + + _O quantum, & quoties decoris frustrata paterni!_ + _At qualis nostris, quam simplex mensa Camillis!_ + _Qui tibi cultus erat post tot, serrane, triumphos?_ + _Ergo illi ex habitu, virtutisq; indole priscae,_ + _Imposuere orbi Romam caput_:---- + + Neighb'ring Excesses being made thine own, + How art thou fall'n from thine old Renown! + But our _Camilli_ did but plainly fare, + No Port did oft triumphant _Serran_ bear: + Therefore such Hardship, and their Heart so great + Gave _Rome_ to be the World's Imperial Seat. + + +But as these were the Sensual and Voluptuous, who abus'd their Plenty, +spent their Fortunes and shortned their Lives by their Debauches; so +never did they taste the Delicaces, and true Satisfaction of a sober +Repast, and the infinite Conveniences of what a well-stor'd _Garden_ +affords; so elegantly describ'd by the [119]_Naturalist_, as costing +neither Fuel nor Fire to boil, Pains or time to gather and prepare, +_Res expedita & parata semper_: All was so near at hand, readily drest, +and of so easie Digestion; as neither to offend the Brain, or dull the +Senses; and in the greatest Dearth of Corn, a little Bread suffic'd. +In all Events, + + _Panis ematur, Olus, Vini Sextarius adde_ + _Queis humana sibi doleat natura negatis_. + + Bread, Wine and wholsome Sallets you may buy, + What Nature adds besides is Luxury. + + +They could then make an honest Meal, and dine upon a _Sallet_ without +so much as a Grain, of _Exotic Spice_; And the _Potagere_ was in such +Reputation, that she who neglected her _Kitchen-Garden_ (for that was +still the Good-Woman's Province) was never reputed a tolerable Hus-wife: +_Si vespertinus subito te oppresserit hospes_, she was never surpriz'd, +had all (as we said) at hand, and could in a Trice set forth an handsome +_Sallet_: And if this was Happiness, _Convictus facilis sine arte mensa_ +(as the _Poet_ reckons) it was here in Perfection. In a Word, so +universal was the _Sallet_, that the [120]Un-bloody Shambles (as _Pliny_ +calls them) yielded the [121]_Roman_ State a more considerable Custom +(when there was little more than honest _Cabbage_ and _Worts_) than +almost any thing bessides brought to Market. + +They spent not then so much precious time as afterwards they did, +gorging themselves with _Flesh_ and _Fish_, so as hardly able to rise, +without reeking and reeling from Table. + + [122]----_Vides ut pallidus omnis_ + _Coena desurgat dubia? quin corpus onustum_ + _Hesternis vitiis, animum quoque praegravat una,_ + _Atque affigit humo divinae particulam aurae_. + + See but how pale they look, how wretchedly, + With Yesterday's Surcharge disturb'd they be! + Nor Body only suff'ring, but the Mind, + That nobler Part, dull'd and depress'd we find. + Drowsie and unapt for Business, and other nobler Parts of Life. + + +Time was before Men in those golden Days: Their Spirits were brisk and +lively. + + ----_Ubi dicto citius curata sopori_ + _Membra dedit, Vegetus praescripta ad munera surgit_. + + With shorter, but much sweeter Sleep content, + Vigorous and fresh, about their Business went. + + +And Men had their Wits about them; their Appetites were natural, their +Sleep _molli sub arbore_, sound, sweet, and kindly: That excellent +Emperour _Tacitus_ being us'd to say of _Lettuce_, that he did _somnum +se mercari_ when he eat of them, and call'd it a sumptuous Feast, with +a _Sallet_ and a single _Pullet_, which was usually all the Flesh-Meat +that sober Prince eat of; whilst _Maximinus_ (a profess'd Enemy to +_Sallet_) is reported to have scarce been satisfied, with sixty Pounds +of Flesh, and Drink proportionable. + +There was then also less expensive Grandure, but far more true State; +when _Consuls_, great Statesmen (and such as atchiev'd the most renown'd +Actions) sup'd in their _Gardens_; not under costly, gilded, and inlaid +Roofs, but the spreading _Platan_; and drank of the Chrystal Brook, and +by Temperance, and healthy Frugality, maintain'd the Glory of _Sallets_, +_Ah, quanta innocentiore victu_! with what Content and Satisfaction! +Nor, as we said, wanted there Variety; for so in the most blissful +Place, and innocent State of Nature, See how the first _Empress_ of the +World _Regal's_ her _Celestial_ Guest: + + [123]_With sav'ry Fruit of Taste to please_ + _True Appetite, ---- and brings_ + _Whatever Earth's all-bearing Mother yields_ + _----Fruit of all kinds, in Coat_ + _Rough, or smooth-Rind, or bearded Husk, or Shell_. + _Heaps with unsparing Hand: For Drink the Grape_ + _She crushes, inoffensive Moust, and Meaches_ + _From many a Berry, and from sweet Kernel prest,_ + _She temper'd dulcid Creams_.---- + + +Then for the Board. + + ----_Rais'd of a grassy Turf_ + _The Table was, and Mossy Seats had round;_ + _And on the ample Meaths from Side to Side,_ + _All Autumn pil'd: Ah Innocence,_ + _Deserving Paradise_! + + +Thus, the _Hortulan_ Provision of the [124]_Golden Age_ fitted all +_Places_, _Times_ and _Persons_; and when Man is restor'd to that State +again, it will be as it was in the Beginning. + +But now after all (and for Close of all) Let none yet imagine, that +whilst we justifie our present Subject through all the _Topics of +Panegyric_, we would in Favour of the _Sallet_, drest with all its Pomp +and Advantage turn Mankind to _Grass_ again; which were ungratefully +to neglect the Bounty of Heaven, as well as his Health and Comfort: +But by these Noble Instances and Examples, to reproach the _Luxury_ +of the present Age; and by shewing the infinite Blessing and Effects of +Temperance, and the Vertues accompanying it; with how little Nature, and +a [125]Civil Appetite may be happy, contented with moderate things, and +within a little Compass, reserving the rest, to the nobler Parts of +Life. And thus of old, + + _Hoc erat in votis, modus agri non ita magnus, _&a._ + +He that was possess'd of a little Spot of Ground, and well=cultivated +_Garden_, with other moderate Circumstances, had [126]_Haeredium_. All +that a modest Man could well desire. Then, + + + [127]_Happy the Man, who from Ambition freed,_ + _A little Garden, little Field does feed._ + _The Field gives frugal Nature what's requird;_ + _The Garden what's luxuriously desir'd:_ + _The specious Evils of an anxious Life,_ + _He leaves to Fools to be their endless Strife_. + + +O Fortunatos nimium bona si sua norint Horticulos! + + +_FINIS_ + + + * * * * * + + + + +_APPENDIX_ + + +Tho' _it was far from our first Intention to charge this small Volume +and Discourse concerning_ Crude Sallets, _with any of the following +Receipts: Yet having since received them from an_ Experienc'd Housewife; +_and that they may possibly be useful to correct, preserve and improve +our_ Acetaria, _we have allow'd them Place as an_ Appendant _Variety +upon Occasion: Nor account we it the least Dishonour to our former +Treatise, that we kindly entertain'd them; since (besides divers +Learned_ Physicians, _and such as have_ ex professo _written_ de Re +Cibaria) _we have the Examples of many other_ [128]Noble _and_ +Illustrious _Persons both among the_ Ancient _and_ Modern. + + +1. Artichoak. _Clear it of the Leaves and cut the Bottoms in pretty thin +Slices or Quarters; then fry them in fresh Butter with some Parsley, +till it is crisp, and the Slices tender; and so dish them with other +fresh melted Butter_. + +_How a_ Poiverade _is made, and the Bottoms preserv'd all the Winter, +See_ Acetaria. p. 5, 6. + +Ashen-keys. _See_ Pickle. + +Asparagus. _See_ Pickle. + + Beets. \ + Broom. | + Buds. | _See_ Pickle. + Capers. / + +Carrot. _See_ Pudding. + +Champignon. _See_ Mushroom. + + +2. Chessnut. _Roasted under the Embers, or dry fryed, till they shell, +and quit their Husks, may be slit; the Juice of Orange squeezed on a +Lump of hard Sugar dissolv'd; to which add some Claret Wine_. + + Collyflower. \ + Cucumber. | + Elder flowers. | _See_ Pickle. + Flowers. | + Gilly-flowers. / + +Herbs. _See_ Pudding _and_ Tart. + +Limon. _See_ Pickle. + + +3. Mushroom. _Chuse the small, firm and white Buttons_, growing _upon +sweet Pasture_ _Grounds, neither under, or about any Trees: strip off +the upper Skin, and pare away all the black spungy Bottom part; then +slice them in quarters, and cast them in Water a while to cleanse: Then +Boil them in fresh Water, and a little sweet Butter; (some boil them a +quarter of an hour first) and then taking them out, dry them in a Cloth, +pressing out the Water, and whilst hot, add the Butter; and then boiling +a full Hour (to exhaust the Malignity) shift them in another clean +Water, with Butter, as before till they become sufficiently tender. Then +being taken out, pour upon them as much strong Mutton (or other) Broth +as will cover them, with six Spoonfuls of White-Wine, twelve Cloves, as +many Pepper-Corns, four small young Onions, half an Handful of Persly +bound up with two or three Spriggs of Thyme, an_ Anchovy, _Oysters raw, +or pickl'd; a little Salt, sweet Butter; and so let them stew_. _See_ +Acetar. p. 26. + + +Another. + + +_Prepared, and cleans'd as above, and cast into Fountain-Water, to +preserve them from growing black; Boil them in fresh Water and Salt; and +whilst on the Fire, cast in the_ Mushrooms, _letting them boil till they +become tender: Then stew them leisurely between two Dishes (the Water +being drained from them) in a third Part of White-Wine_ _and Butter, a +small Bundle of sweet Herbs at discretion. To these add Broth as before, +with Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg_, Anchovies (_one is sufficient_) _Oysters_, +&c. _a small Onion, with the green Stem chopt small; and lastly, some +Mutton-Gravy, rubbing the Dish gently with a Clove of Garlick, or some_ +Rocombo _Seeds in its stead. Some beat the Yolk of a fresh Egg with +Vinegar, and Butter, and a little Pepper_. + +_In_ France _some (more compendiously being peel'd and prepared) cast +them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet Herbs, Spices, and an Onion +they stew them in their own Juice, without any other Water or Liquor at +all; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion, thicken it with a little +Butter, and so eat them_. + + +_In_ Poiverade. + + +_The large Mushrooms well cleansed_, &c. _being cut into quarters and +strewed with Pepper and Salt, are broil'd on the Grid-iron, and eaten +with fresh Butter_. + + +_In_ Powder. + + +_Being fresh gathered, cleans'd_, &c. _and cut in Pieces, stew them +in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them with a Cloth: Then +putting them into an Earth-Glazed Pot, set them into the Oven after the +Bread is drawn: Repeat this till they are perfectly dry; and reserve +them in Papers to crumble into what Sauce you please. For the rest, +see_ Pickle. + + +4. Mustard. _Procure the best and weightiest Seed: cast it into Water +two or three times, till no more of the Husk arise: Then taking out the +sound_ (_which will sink to the Bottom_) _rub it very dry in warm course +Cloths, shewing it also a little to the Fire in a Dish or Pan. Then +stamp it as small as to pass through a fine Tiffany Sieve: Then slice +some Horse-Radish and lay it to soak in strong Vinegar, with a small +Lump of hard Sugar_ (_which some leave out_) _to temper the Flower with, +being drained from the Radish, and so pot it all in a Glaz'd Mug, with +an Onion, and keep it well stop'd with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is +the more cleanly: But this_ Receit _is improv'd, if instead of Vinegar, +Water only, or the Broth of powder'd Beef be made use of. And to some of +this_ Mustard _adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of Limon, +you have an excellent Sauce to any sort of Flesh or Fish_. + +_Note, that a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one time, and to +keep fresh a competent while. What part of it does not pass the_ Sarse, +_may be beaten again; and you may reserve the Flower in a well closed +Glass, and make fresh Mustard when you please_. _See_ Acetaria, p. 38, +67. + +Nasturtium. _Vide_ Pickle. + +Orange. _See_ Limon _in Pickle_. + + +5. Parsnip. _Take the large Roots, boil them, and strip the Skin: Then +slit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices; Flower and fry them in +fresh Butter till they look brown. The sauce is other sweet Butter +melted. Some strow Sugar and Cinamon upon them. Thus you may accomodate +other Roots_. + +_There is made a Mash or Pomate of this Root, being boiled very tender +with a little fresh Cream; and being heated again, put to it some +Butter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; dish it upon Sippets; +sometimes a few_ Corinths _are added_. + +Peny-royal. _See_ Pudding. + + +Pickles. + + +6. _Pickl'd_ + Artichoaks. _See_ Acetaria, p. 5. + + +7. Ashen-keys. _Gather them young, and boil them in three or four Waters +to extract the Bitterness; and when they feel tender, prepare a Syrup of +sharp White-Wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a little Water. Then boil them on +a very quick Fire, and they will become of a green Colour, fit to be +potted so soon as cold_. + + +8. Asparagus. _Break off the hard Ends, and put them in White-Wine +Vinegar and Salt, well covered with it; and so let them remain for six +Weeks: Then taking them out, boil the Liquor or Pickle, and scum it +carefully. If need be, renew the Vinegar and Salt; and when 'tis cold, +pot them up again. Thus may one keep them the whole Year_. + + +9. Beans. _Take such as are fresh, young, and approaching their full +Growth. Put them into a strong Brine of White-Wine Vinegar and Salt able +to bear an Egg. Cover them very close, and so will they be preserved +twelve Months: But a Month before you use them, take out what Quantity +you think sufficient for your spending a quarter of a Year (for so long +the second Pickle will keep them sound) and boil them in a Skillet of +fresh Water, till they begin to look green, as they soon will do. Then +placing them one by one, (to drain upon a clean course Napkin) range +them Row by Row in a_ Jarr, _and cover them with Vinegar, and what Spice +you please; some Weight being laid upon them to keep them under the +Pickle. Thus you may preserve French-Beans_, Harico's, &c. _the whole +Year about_. + + +10. Broom-Buds _and_ Pods. _Make a strong Pickle, as above; stir it very +well, till the Salt be quite dissolved, clearing off the Dregs and Scum. +The next Day pour it from the Bottom; and having rubbed the Buds dry pot +them up in a Pickle-Glass, which should be frequently shaken, till they +sink under it, and keep it well stopt and covered_. + +_Thus may you-pickle any other_ Buds. _Or as follows:_ + + +11. _Of_ Elder. _Take the largest_ Buds, _and boil them in a Skillet +with Salt and Water, sufficient only to scald them; and so (being taken +off the Fire) let them remain covered till Green; and then pot them with +Vinegar and Salt, which has had one Boil up to cleanse it_. + + +12. Collyflowers. _Boil them till they fall in Pieces: Then with some of +the Stalk, and worst of the Flower, boil it in a part of the Liquor till +pretty strong: Then being taken off, strain it; and when settled, clear +it from the Bottom. Then with_ Dill, _Gross Pepper, a pretty Quantity of +Salt, when cold, add as much Vinegar as will make it sharp, and pour all +upon the_ Collyflower; _and so as to keep them from touching one +another; which is prevented by putting Paper close to them_. + +Cornelians _are pickled like_ Olives. + + +13. Cowslips. _Pick very clean; to each Pound of Flowers allow about one +Pound of Loaf Sugar, and one Pint of White-Wine Vinegar, which boil to a +Syrup, and cover it scalding-hot. Thus you may pickle_ Clove-gillyflowers, +Elder, _and other Flowers, which being eaten alone, make a very agreeable +Salletine_. + + +14. Cucumbers. _Take the_ Gorkems, _or smaller_ Cucumbers; _put them +into_ Rape-Vinegar, _and boyl, and cover them so close, as none of the +Vapour may issue forth; and also let them stand till the next day: Then +boil them in fresh White-Wine Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg, Ginger, +white Pepper, and a little Salt, (according to discretion) straining the +former Liquor from the_ Cucumbers; _and so place them in a Jarr, or wide +mouthed Glass, laying a litle Dill and Fennel between each Rank; and +covering all with the fresh scalding-hot Pickle, keep all close, and +repeat it daily, till you find them sufficiently green_. + +_In the same sort_ Cucumbers _of the largest size, being peel'd and cut +into thin Slices, are very delicate_. + + +Another. + + +_Wiping them clean, put them in a very strong Brine of Water and Salt, +to soak two or three Hours or longer, if you see Cause: Then range +them in the_ Jarr _or_ Barrellet _with Herbs and Spice as usual; and +cover them with hot Liquor made of two parts Beer-Vinegar, and one of +White-Wine Vinegar: Let all be very well closed. A Fortnight after scald +the Pickle again, and repeat it, as above: Thus they will keep longer, +and from being so soon sharp, eat crimp and well tasted, tho' not +altogether so green. You may add a Walnut-Leaf, Hysop, Costmary_, &c. +_and as some do, strow on them a little Powder of_ Roch-Allom, _which +makes them firm and eatable within a Month or six Weeks after_. + + +Mango _of_ Cucumbers. + + +_Take the biggest_ Cucumbers _(and most of the_ Mango _size) that look +green: Open them on the Top or Side; and scooping out the Seeds, supply +their Place with a small Clove of Garlick, or some_ Roccombo _Seeds. +Then put them into an Earthen Glazed_ Jarr, _or wide-mouth'd Glass, with +as much White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar +with Pepper, Cloves, Mace, &c. and when off the Fire, as much Salt as +will make a gentle Brine; and so pour all boyling-hot on the_ Cucumbers, +_covering them close till the next Day. Then put them with a little +Dill, and Pickle into a large Skillet; and giving them a Boyl or two, +return them into the Vessel again: And when all is cold, add a good +Spoonful of the best_ Mustard, _keeping it from the Air, and so have you +an excellent_ Mango. _When you have occasion to take any out, make use +of a Spoon, and not your Fingers_. + +Elder. _See_ Buds. + +Flowers. _See_ Cowslips, _and for other_ Flowers. + + +15. Limon. _Take Slices of the thick Rind Limon, Boil and shift them in +several Waters, till they are pretty tender: Then drain and wipe them +dry with a clean Cloth; and make a Pickle with a little White-Wine +Vinegar, one part to two of fair Water, and a little Sugar, carefully +scum'd. When all is cold, pour it on the peel'd Rind, and cover it all +close in a convenient Glass Jarr. Some make a Syrup of Vinegar, +White-Wine and Sugar not too thick, and pour it on hot_. + + +16. Melon. _The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickled as_ +Cucumber, _make an excellent Sallet_. + + +17. Mushrom. _Take a Quart of the best White-Wine Vinegar; as much of +White-Wine, Cloves, Mace, Nutmeg a pretty Quantity, beaten together: Let +the Spice boil therein to the Consumption of half; then taken off, and +being cold, pour the Liquour on the_ Mushroms; _but leave out the boiled +Spice, and cast in of the same sort of Spice whole, the Nutmeg only slit +in Quarters, with some Limon-Peel, white Pepper; and if you please a +whole raw Onion, which take out again when it begins to perish_. + + +Another. + + +_The_ Mushroms _peel'd_, &c. _throw them into Water, and then into +a Sauce-Pan, with some long Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a quarter'd Nutmeg, +with an Onion, Shallot, or Roccombo-Seed, and a little Salt. Let them +all boil a quarter of an hour on a very quick Fire: Then take out +and cold, with a pretty Quantity of the former Spice, boil them in some +White-Wine; which (being cold) cast upon the_ Mushroms, _and fill up +the Pot with the best White-Wine, a Bay-Leaf or two, and an Handful of +Salt: Then cover them with the Liquor; and if for long keeping, pour +Sallet-Oil over all, tho' they will be preserved a Year without it_. + +_They are sometimes boil'd in Salt and Water, with some Milk, and laying +them in the Colender to drain, till cold, and wiped dry, cast them into +the Pickle with the White-Wine, Vinegar and Salt, grated Nutmeg, Ginger +bruised, Cloves, Mace, white Pepper and Limon-Peel; pour the Liquor on +them cold without boiling_. + + +18. Nasturtium Indicum. _Gather the Buds before they open to flower; lay +them in the Shade three or four Hours, and putting them into an Earthen +Glazed Vessel, pour good Vinegar on them, and cover it with a Board. +Thus letting it stand for eight or ten Days: Then being taken out, and +gently press'd, cast them into fresh Vinegar, and let them so remain as +long as before. Repeat this a third time, and Barrel them up with +Vinegar and a little Salt_. + +Orange. _See_ Limon. + + +20. Potato. _The small green Fruit (when about the size of the Wild +Cherry) being pickled, is an agreeable Sallet. But the Root being +roasted under the Embers, or otherwise, open'd with a Knife, the Pulp +is butter'd in the Skin, of which it will take up a good Quantity, and +is seasoned with a little Salt and Pepper. Some eat them with Sugar +together in the Skin, which has a pleasant Crimpness. They are also +stew'd and bak'd in Pyes_, &c. + + +21. Purselan. _Lay the Stalks in an Earthen Pan; then cover them with +Beer-Vinegar and Water, keeping them down with a competent Weight to +imbibe, three Days: Being taken out, put them into a Pot with as much +White-Wine Vinegar as will cover them again; and close the Lid with +Paste to keep in the Steam: Then set them on the Fire for three or four +Hours, often shaking and stirring them: Then open the Cover, and turn +and remove those Stalks which lie at the Bottom, to the Top, and boil +them as before, till they are all of a Colour. When all is cold, pot +them with fresh White-Wine Vinegar, and so you may preserve them the +whole Year round_. + + +22. Radish. _The Seed-Pods of this Root being pickl'd, are a pretty +Sallet_. + + +23. Sampier. _Let it be gathered about_ Michaelmas _(or the Spring) and +put two or three hours into a Brine of Water and Salt; then into a clean +Tin'd Brass Pot, with three parts of strong White-Wine Vinegar, and one +part of Water and Salt, or as much as will cover the_ Sampier, _keeping +the Vapour from issuing out, by pasting down the Pot-lid, and so hang +it over the Fire for half an Hour only. Being taken off, let it remain +covered till it be cold; and then put it up into small Barrels or Jars, +with the Liquor, and some fresh Vinegar, Water and Salt; and thus it +will keep very green. If you be near the Sea, that Water will supply the +place of Brine. This is the_ Dover _Receit_. + + +24. Walnuts. _Gather the Nuts young, before they begin to harden, but +not before the Kernel is pretty white: Steep them in as much Water as +will more than cover them. Then set them on the Fire, and when the water +boils, and grows black, pour it off, and supply it with fresh, boiling +it as before, and continuing to shift it till it become clear, and the_ +Nuts _pretty tender: Then let them be put into clean Spring Water for +two Days, changing it as before with fresh, two or three times within +this space: Then lay them to drain, and dry on a clean course Cloth, +and put them up in a Glass Jar, with a few Walnut Leaves, Dill, Cloves, +Pepper, whole Mace and Salt; strowing them under every Layer of Nuts, +till the Vessel be three quarters full; and lastly, replenishing it with +the best Vinegar, keep it well covered; and so they will be fit to spend +within three Months_. + + +To make a _Mango_ with them. + + +_The green Nuts prepared as before, cover the Bottom of the Jar with +some Dill, an Handful of Bay-Salt_, &c. _and then a Bed of Nuts; +and so_ stratum _upon_ stratum, _as above, adding to the Spice some_ +Roccombo-Seeds; _and filling the rest of the Jar with the best +White-Wine Vinegar, mingled with the best Mustard; and to let them +remain close covered, during two or three Months time: And thus have you +a more agreeable_ Mango _than what is brought us from abroad; which you +may use in any Sauce, and is of it self a rich Condiment_. + + +_Thus far_ Pickles. + + +25. Potage Maigre. _Take four Quarts of Spring-Water, two or three +Onions stuck with some Cloves, two or three Slices of Limon Peel, Salt, +whole white Pepper, Mace, a Raze or two of Ginger, tied up in a fine +Cloth (Lawn or Tiffany) and make all boil for half an Hour; Then having +Spinage, Sorrel, white Beet-Chard, a little Cabbage, a few small Tops of +Cives, wash'd and pick'd clean, shred them well, and cast them into the +Liquor, with a Pint of blue Pease boil'd soft and strain'd, with a Bunch +of sweet Herbs, the Top and Bottom of a_ French Roll; _and so suffer it +to boil during three Hours; and then dish it with another small_ French +Roll, _and Slices about the Dish: Some cut Bread in slices, and frying +them brown (being dried) put them into the Pottage just as it is going +to be eaten_. + +_The same Herbs, clean wash'd, broken and pulled asunder only, being put +in a close cover'd Pipkin, without any other Water or Liquor, will stew +in their own Juice and Moisture. Some add an whole Onion, which after a +while should be taken out, remembring to season it with Salt and Spice, +and serve it up with Bread and a Piece of fresh Butter_. + + +26. Pudding _of_ Carrot. _Pare off some of the Crust of Manchet-Bread, +and grate of half as much of the rest as there is of the Root, which +must also be grated: Then take half a Pint of fresh Cream or New Milk, +half a Pound of fresh Butter, six new laid Eggs (taking out three of the +Whites) mash and mingle them well with the Cream and Butter: Then put +in the grated Bread and Carrot, with near half a Pound of Sugar; and a +little Salt; some grated Nutmeg and beaten Spice; and pour all into a +convenient Dish or Pan, butter'd, to keep the Ingredients from sticking +and burning; set it in a quick Oven for about an Hour, and so have you +a Composition for any_ Root-Pudding. + + +27. Penny-royal. _The Cream, Eggs, Spice_, &c. _as above, but not so +much Sugar and Salt: Take a pretty Quantity of Peny-royal and Marigold +flower_, &c. _very well shred, and mingle with the Cream, Eggs_, &c. +_four spoonfuls of Sack; half a Pint more of Cream, and almost a Pound +of Beef-Suet chopt very small, the Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf, and +stirring all well together, put it into a Bag flower'd and tie it fast. +It will be boil'd within an Hour: Or may be baked in the Pan like the_ +Carrot-Pudding. _The sauce is for both, a little Rose-water, less +Vinegar, with Butter beaten together and poured on it sweetned with the +Sugar Caster_. + +_Of this Plant discreetly dried, is made a most wholsom and excellent +Tea_. + + +28. _Of_ Spinage. _Take a sufficient Quantity of_ Spinach, _stamp and +strain out the Juice; put to it grated Manchet, the Yolk of as many Eggs +as in the former Composition of the_ Carrot-Pudding; _some Marrow shred +small, Nutmeg, Sugar, some Corinths, (if you please) a few Carroways, +Rose, or Orange-flower Water (as you best like) to make it grateful. +Mingle all with a little boiled Cream; and set the Dish or Pan in the +Oven, with a Garnish of Puff-Paste. It will require but very moderate +Baking. Thus have you Receits for_ Herb Puddings. + + +29. Skirret-Milk _Is made by boiling the Roots tender, and the Pulp +strained out, put into Cream or new Milk boiled, with three or four +Yolks of Eggs, Sugar, large Mace and other Spice_, &c. _And thus is +composed any other Root-Milk_. _See_ Acetar. p. 42. + + +30. Tansie. _Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-Biscuits, put +them into half a Pint of Cream; with twelve fresh Eggs, four of the +Whites cast out, strain the rest, and break them with two Spoonfuls of +Rose-water, a little Salt and Sugar, half a grated Nutmeg: And when +ready for the Pan, put almost a Pint of the Juice of Spinach, Cleaver, +Beets, Corn-Sallet, Green Corn, Violet, or Primrose tender Leaves, +(for of any of these you may take your choice) with a very small Sprig +of Tansie, and let it be fried so as to look green in the Dish, with a +Strew of Sugar and store of the Juice of Orange: some affect to have +it fryed a little brown and crisp_. + + +31. Tart _of_ Herbs. _An_ Herb-Tart _is made thus: Boil fresh Cream or +Milk, with a little grated Bread or_ Naples-Biscuit _(which is better) +to thicken it; a pretty Quantity of Chervile, Spinach, Beete (or what +other Herb you please) being first par-boil'd and chop'd. Then add_ +Macaron, _or Almonds beaten to a Paste, a little sweet Butter, the Yolk +of five Eggs, three of the Whites rejected. To these some add Corinths +plump'd in Milk, or boil'd therein, Sugar, Spice at Discretion, and +stirring it all together over the Fire, bake it in the Tart-Pan_. + + +32. Thistle. _Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the_ +Milky-Thistle, _about_ May, _when they are young and tender: wash and +scrape them, and boil them in Water, with a little Salt, till they are +very soft, and so let them lie to drain. They are eaten with fresh +Butter melted not too thin, and is a delicate and wholsome Dish. Other +Stalks of the same kind may so be treated, as the_ Bur, _being tender +and disarmed of its Prickles_, &c. + + +33. Trufles, _and other_ Tubers, _and_ Boleti, _are roasted whole in +the_ Embers; _then slic'd and stew'd in strong Broth with Spice_, &c. +_as_ Mushroms _are. Vide_ Acetar. p. 28. + + +34. Turnep. _Take their Stalks (when they begin to run up to seed) as +far as they will easily break downwards: Peel and tie them in Bundles. +Then boiling them as they do_ Sparagus, _are to be eaten with melted +Butter. Lastly_, + + +35. Minc'd, _or_ Sallet-all-sorts. + +_Take Almonds blanch'd in cold Water, cut them round and thin, and +so leave them in the_ _Water; Then have pickl'd Cucumbers, Olives, +Cornelians, Capers, Berberries, Red-Beet, Buds of_ Nasturtium, _Broom_, +&c. _Purslan-stalk, Sampier, Ash-Keys, Walnuts, Mushrooms (and almost +of all the pickl'd Furniture) with Raisins of the Sun ston'd, Citron +and Orange-Peel, Corinths (well cleansed and dried)_ &c. _mince them +severally (except the Corinths) or all together; and strew them over +with any Candy'd Flowers, and so dispose of them in the same Dish both +mixt, and by themselves. To these add roasted_ Maroons, Pistachios, +Pine-Kernels, _and of Almonds four times as much as of the rest, with +some Rose-water. Here also come in the Pickled Flowers and Vinegar in +little_ China _Dishes. And thus have you an Universal_ Winter-Sallet, +_or an_ All sort _in Compendium, fitted for a City Feast, and +distinguished from the_ Grand-Sallet: _which shou'd consist of the Green +blanch'd and unpickled, under a stately_ Pennash _of_ Sellery, _adorn'd +with Buds and Flowers_. + + +_And thus have we presented you a Taste of our_ English Garden +Housewifry _in the matter of_ Sallets: _And though some of them may be +Vulgar, (as are most of the best things;) Yet she was willing to impart +them, to shew the Plenty, Riches and Variety of the_ Sallet-Garden: +_And to justifie what has been asserted of the Possibility of living +(not unhappily) on_ Herbs _and_ Plants, _according to_ Original _and_ +Divine Institution, _improved by Time and long Experience. And if we have +admitted_ Mushroms _among the rest (contrary to our Intention, and for +Reasons given_, Acet. p. 43.) _since many will by no means abandon them, +we have endeavoured to preserve them from those pernicious Effects which +are attributed to, and really in them: We cannot tell indeed whether +they were so treated and accommodated for the most Luxurious of the_ +Caesarean Tables, _when that Monarchy was in its highest Strain of_ +Epicurism, _and ingross'd this_ Haugout _for their second Course; whilst +this we know, that 'tis but what_ Nature _affords all her Vagabonds +under every Hedge_. + +_And now, that our_ Sallets _may not want a Glass of generous Wine of +the same Growth with the rest of the Garden to recommend it, let us have +your Opinion of the following_. + + +Cowslip-Wine. _To every Gallon of Water put two Pounds of_ Sugar; _boil +it an Hour, and set it to cool: Then spread a good brown_ Toast _on both +Sides with Yeast: But before you make use of it, beat some Syrup of_ +Citron _with it, an Ounce and half of Syrup to each Gallon of Liquor: +Then put in the_ Toast _whilst hot, to assist its_ Fermentation, _which +will cease in two Days; during which time cast in the_ Cowslip-Flowers +_(a little bruised, but not much stamp'd) to the Quantity of half a +Bushel to ten Gallons (or rather three Pecks) four_ Limons _slic'd, with +the Rinds and all. Lastly, one Pottle of_ White _or_ Rhenish Wine; _and +then after two Days, tun it up in a sweet Cask. Some leave out all the +Syrup_. + +_And here, before we conclude, since there is nothing of more constant +Use than good Vinegar; or that has so near an Affinity to all our_ +Acetaria, _we think it not amiss to add the following (much approved) +Receit_. + +Vinegar. _To every Gallon of Spring Water let there be allowed three +Pounds of_ Malaga-Raisins: _Put them in an Earthen Jarr, and place them +where they may have the hottest Sun, from_ May till Michaelmas: _Then +pressing them well, Tun the Liquor up in a very strong Iron-Hooped +Vessel to prevent its bursting. It will appear very thick and muddy when +newly press'd, but will refine in the Vessel, and be as clear as Wine. +Thus let it remain untouched for three Months, before it be drawn off, +and it will prove Excellent_ Vinegar. + +Butter. Butter _being likewise so frequent and necessary an Ingredient +to divers of the foregoing_ Appendants: _It should be carefully melted, +that it turn not to an Oil; which is prevented by melting it leisurely, +with a little fair Water at the Bottom of the Dish or Pan; and by +continual shaking and stirring, kept from boiling or over-heating, which +makes it rank_. + +_Other rare and exquisite_ Liquors _and Teas (Products of our_ Gardens +_only) we might super-add, which we leave to our_ Lady Housewives, +_whose Province indeed all this while it is_. + + +_THE END_ + + + * * * * * + + + + +The Table + + + _Abstemious Persons who eat no Flesh, nor were under Vows_, 104 + + Abstersives, 42 + + ACETARIA, _Criticisms on the Word, how they differ from Olera, &c._, 1 + + Achilles, 77 + + Acids, 63 + + Adam _and_ Eve _lived on Vegetables and Plants_, 94 + + Africans _eat_ Capsicum Indicum, 34 + + _Aged Persons_, 44; + _Sallet-Eaters_, 80 + + _Agues_, 81 + + _Air_, 80 + + Alliaria, 19 + + _Ale_, 15 + + Alleluja, 47 + + Alexanders, 5 + + Allium, 18 + + _Altar dedicated to Lettuce_, 21 + + Anagallis, 9 + + Annaeus Serenus _poisoned by Mushroms_, 27 + + _Anatomy, Comparative_, 90 + + Antecoenia, 74 + + Antediluvians _eat no Flesh for_ 2000 _years_, 80 + + Aparine, 12 + + _Aperitives_, 10 + + _Appetite_, 21; + _How to subdue_, 98 + + Apician _Luxury_, 103 + + Apium, 35; + Italicum, 41 + + _Aromatics_, 13 + + _Artichoaks_, 5 + + Arum Theophrasti, 48 + + Ascalonia, 41 + + Ascetics, 106 + + _Asparagus_, 43; + _preferable to the_ Dutch, 43; + _how to cover in Winter without Dung_, 87 + + Asphodel, 23 + + _Astringents_, 9 + + _Asthmatical_, 31 + + Assa foetida, 52 + + Atriplex, 32 + + Augustus, 21 + + _Autumn_, 71 + + +B. + + Barlaeus's _Description Poetic of a Sallet Collation_, 113 + + _Basil_, 7 + + _Baulm_, 7 + + _Beere_, 15 + + _Beet_, 7, 79 + + _Benzoin_, 51 + + _Bile_, 36 + + _Blite_, 8 + + _Blood to purifie_, 8; + _Eating it prohibited_, 100 + + Boletus, 26 + + _Books of_ Botany, 54; + _to be read with caution where they write of Edule Plants_, ib. + + _Borrage_, 8 + + _Bowels_, 58 + + _Brain_, 7, 38 + + Bramins, 97 + + Brandy _and Exotic Liquors pernicious_, 93 + + _Bread and Sallet sufficient for Life_, 2; + _Made of Turnips_, 46 + + _Breast_, 19 + + Broccoli, 10 + + _Brook lime_, 9 + + _Broth_, 19 + + _Brute Animals much healthier than Men, why_, 91 + + _Buds_, 9 + + _Buglos_, 9 + + Bulbo Castanum, 15 + + Buphthalmum, 15 + + _Burnet_, 35 + + _Butter_, 64 + + +C. + + Cabbage, 10 + + Capsicum Indicum, 34 + + Cardialgia, 34 + + Carduus Sativus, 5 + + Cardon, Spanish, 6 + + _Carnivorous Animals_, 89 + + _Carrots_, 11 + + _Cattel relish of their Pasture and Food_, 86; + _Vide Fowl_. + + _Cauly flower_, 11 + + Cepae, 31 + + _Cephalics_, 30 + + Chaeriphyllum, 12 + + Champignons, 26; + _Vide_ Mushroms. + + _Chastity_, 21 + + _Children chuse to eat Fruit before other Meat_, 94 + + _Christians abstaining from eating Flesh_, 97 + + _Choler_, 20 + + _Church Catholics Future Glory predicted_, 115 + + Cibarium, 63 + + Cicuta, 48 + + Cinara, 5 + + _Clary_, 12 + + Claudius Caesar, 27 + + _Claver_, 12 + + _Cleansing_, 44 + + _Climate_, 80 + + Cochlearia, 41; + _vide Scurvy-Grass_. + + _Cooks_, 77; + _Physicians to Emperors and Popes_, 55; + _vide_ Heroes. + + _Collation of Sallet, Extemporary_, 73 + + _Cold_, 16 + + _Cooling_, 33 + + _Complexion_, 84 + + _Composing, and Composer of Sallets_, 71 + + _Compotation_, 74 + + _Concession to eat Flesh, since which Mens Lives shortned_, 97 + + _Concoction_, 18 + + Condiments, 64; + _vide_ Sauce. + + _Conscience_, 98 + + _Consent; vide Harmony_. + + _Constitution of Body_, 57 + + Consuls _and Great Persons supt in their Garden_, 121 + + _Contemplative Persons_, 104 + + Convictus Facilis, 117 + + _Cordials_, 7 + + _Coriander_, 49 + + _Corrago_, 9 + + _Correctives_, 82 + + _Corn, what Ground most proper for it_, 86 + + _Corn Sallet_, 12 + + _Corroboratives_, 52 + + _Corpulency_, 82 + + _Cowslips_, 13 + + _Cresses_, 13 + + Crithmum, 40 + + _Crudities_, 26 + + _Cruelty in butchering Animals for Food_, 99 + + _Cucumber_, 13 + + _Culture, its Effects_, 42 + + _Custom_, 81; + _Of Sallet Herbs, how great a Revenue to_ Rome, 119 + + +D. + + _Daffodil_, 48 + + _Daisie_, 15 + + _Dandelion_, 15 + + Dapes Inemptae, 116 + + Dauci, 11 + + _Decay in Nature, none_, 106 + + _Decoction_, 19 + + _Deobstructions_, 5 + + Deorum filii, 26 + + _Distinction of Meats abrogated_, 94 + + _Detersives_, 8 + + _Dishes for Sallets_, 69 + + _Dissimilar Parts of Animals require Variety of Food_, 89 + + _Diuretics_, 19 + + _Dock_, 15 + + _Dogs Mercury_, 54 + + Domitian _Emp._, 74 + + Draco herba, 45 + + _Dressing of Sallets_, vide _Sallet_. + + _Dry Plants_, 17 + + _Dung_, 85; + _Sallets rais'd on it undigested_, 86 + + +E. + + Earth, _whether much altered since the Flood_, 81; + _about great Cities, produces rank and unwholsome Sallets_, 85 + + _Earth-Nuts_, 15 + + _Eggs_, 68 + + _Elder_, 16 + + _Emollients_, 15 + + _Endive_, 16 + + _Epicurism_, 99 + + _Eremit's_, vide _Monks_. + + _Eruca_, 39 + + _Eructation_, 38 + + Eruditae gulae, 77 + + _Escalons_, 31 + + _Eternity_, vide _Patriarchs_. + + Eupeptics, 58 + + Euphrosyne, 9 + + _Excess_, 72 + + _Exhilarate_, 7 + + _Exotic Drinks and Sauces dangerous_, 90 + + _Experience_, 83 + + _Eyes_, 7, vide _Sight_. + + +F. + + Fabrorum prandia, 8 + + _Fainting_, 47 + + _Families enobl'd by names of Sallet Plants_, 20 + + _Farcings_, 35 + + Fascicule, 70 + + _Fevers_, 20 + + _Felicity of the Hortulan Life_, 122 + + _Fennel_, 17 + + _Flatulents_, 33 + + Flesh, _none eaten during 2000 years. Flesh eaters not so ingenious as + Sallet eaters: unapt for Study and Bussiness; shortens Life; how all + Flesh is Grass_, 94 + + _Flowers_, 17 + + Foliatorum ordo, 105 + + _Fowl relish of their Food_, 86 + + _Food. No Necessity of different Food_, 90; + _The simplest best_, 92; + _Man's original Food_, 93 + + _Fools unfit to gather Sallets contrary to the_ Italian _Proverb_, 61 + + _Friers_, vide _Monks_. + + Frigidae Mensae, 82 + + _Frugality of the ancient_ Romans, _&c._, 21 + + _Fruit_, 75; + _not reckon'd among Sallets_, 76; + _not degenerated since the Flood, where industry is us'd_, 104 + + Fugaces fructus, 74 + + Fungus, 26, vide _Mushroms_. + + Fungus reticularis, 27 + + _Furniture and Ingredients of Sallets_, 61 + + +G. + + Galen _Lover of Lettuce_, 21 + + _Gardiner's happy Life_, 113; + _Entertain Heroes and great Persons_, 115 + + _Garlick_, 18 + + _Garnishing_, 8 + + _Gatherers of Sallets should be skilful Herbarists_, 71 + + Gemmae, 9, _vide_ Buds. + + _Gerkems_, 15, _vide Cucumber_. + + _Ginny-Pepper_, 78 + + _Goats beard_, 18 + + _Golden Age_, 99 + + Gordian _Emp._, 82 + + Gramen Amygdalosum, 48 + + _Grand Sallet_, 42 + + _Grass_, 82 + + _Grillus_, 56 + + _Gymnosophists_, 97 + + +H. + + _Habits difficult to overcome, applied to Flesh-Eaters_, 98 + + Haeredium _of old_, 123 + + Halimus, 36 + + _Harmony in mixing Sallet Ingredients as Notes in Musick_, 60 + + Hautgout, 77 + + _Head_, 40, _vide Cephalicks_. + + _Heart_, 42, _vide Cordials_. + + Heliotrop, 49 + + _Hemlock_, 54 + + _Herbaceous Animals know by instinct what Herbs are proper for them + better than Men_, 56; + _and excel them in most of the senses_, ib. + + _Herbals_, vide _Books_. + + _Herbs, crude, whether wholsome_, 80; + _What proper for Sallets_, 70; + _Their Qualities and Vertues to be examined_, 82; + _Herby Diet most Natural_, 98 + + Heroes _of old skill'd in Cookery_, 77 + + Hippocrates _condemns Radish_, 37; + _That Men need only Vegetables_, 106 + + Hipposelinum, 5 + + Holyhoc, 24 + + _Honey_, 14 + + _Hops_, 19 + + Horarii fructus, 74 + + Horminum, 12 + + _Horses not so diseased as Men_, 91; + _Recompens'd by some Masters for long Service_, 91 + + _Horse-Radish_, 38 + + _Hortulan Provision most plentiful of any, advantageous, universal, + natural, &c._, 110 + + _Hot Plants_, 8 + + _Hot Beds, how unwholsome for Salleting_, 85 + + _House-wife had charge of the Kitchin Garden_, 119 + + _Humours_, 57 + + _Hypochondria_, 9 + + _Hysop_, 19 + + +I. + + _Ilander_, 58; + _obnoxious to the Scorbute_, ib. + + _Indigestion_, 38 + + _Ingredients_, 4, vide _Furniture_. + + _Insects_, 28 + + Intuba Sativa, 16 + + Israelites _Love of Onions_, 32 + + +J. + + _Jack-by-the-Hedge_, 19 + + John _the_ Baptist, 106 + + Justin Martyr _concerning the eating of Blood_, 101 + + +K. + + _Knife for cutting Sallets_, 68 + + _Kitchen Garden_, 119, vide Potagere. + + +L. + + Lapathum, 24 + + Laserpitium, 51 + + Latet anguis in herba, 115 + + _Laws_, 116 + + _Laxatives_, 7 + + _Leeks_, 20 + + Legumena, 73 + + _Lettuce_, 20 + + _Limon_, 23 + + _Liver_, 13 + + _Longaevity_, 81 + + Lotophagi, 106 + + _Lungs_, 20 + + Lupulus, 19 + + _Luxury_, 81 + + Lysimachia Seliquosa glabra, 49 + + Lyster, _Dr._, 56 + + +M. + + Macarons, 49 + + Majoran, 19 + + _Mallows_, 23 + + Malvae folium sanctissimum, ib. + + _Man before the Fall knew the Vertues of Plants_, 83; + _Unbecoming his Dignity to butcher the innocent Animal for Food_, 94; + _Not by nature carnivorous_, 111; + _Not lapsed so soon as generally thought_, 95 + + _Marygold_, 19 + + _Masculine Vigour_, 52 + + Materia medica, 65 + + _Materials for Sallets_, vide _Furniture_. + + Maximinus _an egregious Glutton, Sallet-hater_, 121 + + _Meats commend not to God_, 99 + + _Medals of_ Battus _with_ Silphium _on the reverse_, 51 + + Melissa, 7 + + _Melon, how cultivated by the Ancients_, 24 + + _Memory to assist_, 7 + + _Mints_, 25 + + Mithacus, _a Culinary Philosopher_, 77 + + _Mixture_, 57 + + _Moist_, 9 + + _Monks and Friers perstring'd for their idle unprofitable Life_, 107 + & _seqq._ + + Morocco _Ambassador_, 43; _Lover of Sow-thistles_. + + Mortuorum cibi _Mushroms_, 20 + + Mosaical _Customs_, 94; + Moses _gave only a summary account of the Creation, sufficient for + instruction, not Curiosity_, 102 + + _Mushroms_, 26; + _Pernicious Accidents of eating them_, 26; + _How produced artificially_, 29 + + _Mustard_, 30 + + _Myrrh_, 12 + + _Myrtil-Berries_, 35 + + +N. + + Napus, 46 + + Nasturtium, 13; + Indicum, 41 + + _Nature invites all to Sallets_, 111 + + Nepenthes, 9 + + _Nerves_, 54 + + _Nettle_, 30 + + _Nigard_, 61 + + _Nourishing_, 5 + + +O. + + _Obstructions_, 16 + + _Ocimum_, 7 + + Olera, _what properly, how distinguish'd from Acetaria_, 1, 2 + + Oluscula, 4 + + _Onion_, 31; + _What vast Quantities spent in_ Egypt, 32 + + _Opening_, 16 + + Orach, 32 + + _Orange_, 23 + + Ornithogallon, 48 + + Oxalis, 42 + + Oxylapathum, 15 + + _Oyl, how to choose_, 63; + _Its diffusive Nature_, 69 + + +P. + + _Painters_, 50 + + _Palpitation_, 47 + + _Palsie_, 30 + + _Panacea_, 10 + + Paradisian _Entertainment_, 122 + + Paralysis, 13 + + _Parsnip_, 33 + + Pastinaca Sativa, 11 + + _Patriarchs_, 93; + _Their Long Lives a Shadow of Eternity_, 96 + + _Peach said to be Poison in_ Persia, _a Fable_, 87 + + _Peas_, 33 + + _Pectorals_, 58 + + _Pepper_, 33; + _Beaten too small, hurtful to the Stomach_, 34 + + _Persly_, 35; + _Sacred to the Defunct_, ib. + + _Philosophers_, 56 + + _Phlegm_, 30 + + _Pickle_, 72; + _What Sallet Plants proper for Pickles_, ib., _vide Appendix_. + + _Pig-Nuts_, 28 + + _Pimpernel_, 9 + + _Plants, their Vertue_, 59; + _Variety_, 114; + _Nourishment_, 83; + _No living at all without them_, 110; + _Plants infect by looking on_, 57; + _When in prime_, 71; + _how altered by the Soil and Culture_, 84; + _Not degenerated since the Flood_, 105 + + Platonic _Tables_, 97 + + _Pleurisie_, 81 + + _Poiverade_, 7 + + _Poppy_, 48 + + Porrum, 20 + + Postdiluvians, 93 + + _Potage_, 5 + + Potagere, 119 + + _Pot-Herbs_, 19 + + _Poyson_, 18 + + _Praecoce Plants not so wholsome artificially rais'd_, 85 + + _Preparation to the dressing of Sallets_, 10 + + _Prodigal_, 61 + + _Pugil_, 70 + + _Punishment_, 18 + + _Purslan_, 36 + + _Putrefaction_, 33 + + Pythagoras, 97 + + +Q. + + _Quality and Vertue of Plants_, 53. _See Plants_. + + +R. + + _Radish_, 37; + _of Gold dedicated at_ Delphi, 37; + Moschius _wrote a whole Volume in praise of them_, ib.; + Hippocrates _condemns them_, ib. + + Raphanus Rusticanus _Horse Radish_, 38 + + Radix Lunaria, 48; + Personata, 49 + + Ragout, 28 + + _Rampion_, 39 + + _Rapum_, 46 + + _Ray, Mr._, 55 + + _Refreshing_, 13 + + _Restaurative_, 5 + + _Rocket_, 39 + + _Roccombo_, 18 + + Roman _Sallet_, 112; + _Lux_, 115 + + _Rosemary_, 39 + + _Roots_, 37 + + _Rhue_, 49 + + +S. + + + _Saffron_, 68 + + _Sage_, 39 + + _Sallets, what, how improved, whence so called_, 3; + _Ingredients_, 4; + _Variety and Store above what the Ancients had_, 112; + _Bills of Fare_, 112; + _Skill in choosing, gathering, composing and dressing_, 48; + _found in the Crops of Foul_, 62; + _what formerly in use, now abdicated_, 49; + _extemporary Sallets_, 87; + _Whether best to begin or conclude with Sallets_, 73 + + Salade de Preter, 13 + + _Salt_, 64; + _What best for Sallets_, 64; + _Salts Essential, and of Vegetables_, 65 + + Sambucus, 16 + + _Sampier_, 40 + + _Sanguine_, 36 + + Sarcophagists, 56 + + _Sauce_, 39 + + _Savoys_, 11 + + _Scallions_, 41 + + Scorbute, vide _Scurvy_. + + _Scurvy-Grass_, 41 + + _Scurvy_, 9 + + _Season_, 71 + + _Seasoning_, 79, vide _Sallet_. + + Sedum minus, 45, _vide_ Stone-Crop. + + _Sellery_, 41 + + Seneca, 98 + + _Shambles_, 77 + + _Sight_, 50, vide _Eyes_. + + Silphium, 50; + _How precious and sacred_, 51 + + _Simples_, 49 + + _Sinapi_, 30 + + _Sisarum_, 42 + + _Skirrits_, ib. + + _Sleep, to procure_, 21 + + _Smallage_, 41 + + _Smut in Wheat_, 86 + + Syrenium Vulgare, 5 + + _Snails, safe Tasters_, 56 + + _Sonchus_, 43 + + _Sordidness_, 87 + + _Sorrel_, 42 + + _Sow-thistle_, vide Sonchus. + + _Specificks, few yet discovered_, 83 + + _Spleen_, 10 + + _Spinach_, 12 + + _Spirits, cherishing and reviving_, 9 + + _Spring_, 71 + + _Stomach_, 16 + + _Stone_, 9 + + _Stone-Crop_, 44 + + _Strowings_, 67 + + _Students_, 9 + + _Succory_, 44 + + _Sugar_, 14 + + _Summer_, 84 + + _Sumptuary Laws_, 116 + + _Swearing_ per Brassicam, 11 + + _Swine used to find out Truffles and Earth-Nuts_, 28 + + +T. + + _Table of Species, Culture, Proportion and dressing of Sallets, + according to the Season_, 70 + + Tacitus, _Emp. Temperance_, 21 + + _Tansie_, 44 + + _Tarragon_, 45 + + _Taste should be exquisite in the Composer of Sallets_, 60 + + _Tea_, 17, vide Appendix. + + _Temper_, 81 + + _Temperance_, 21 + + _Teeth_, 37 + + Theriacle, _vide Garlick_. + + _Thirst, to asswage_, 33 + + _Thistle_, 45 + + _Thyme_, 19, vide _Pot-herbs_. + + Tiberius Caes., 42 + + Tragopogon, 47 + + _Transmigration_, 56 + + _Tribute paid to Roots_, 42 + + Truffles, 28 + + Tubera, 28 + + _Tulip eaten that cost_ 100 _l._, 47 + + Turiones, 9 + + _Turnip_, 46; + _Made a Fish_, 113 + + +V. + + _Vapours to repress_, 21 + + _Variety necessary and proper_, 92 + + _Ventricle_, 20, vide _Stomach_. + + _Vine_, 47 + + _Vinegar_, 63; vide Appendix. + + _Viper-Grass_, 47 + + _Vertues of Sallet Plants and Furniture_, 57; + _Consist in the several and different Parts of the same Plant_, 49 + + Voluptuaria Venena, 28 + + +U. + + Urtica, 30 + + +W. + + _Welsh, prolifick_, 20 + + _Wind_, 17 + + _Wine_, 7; vide _Appendix_. + + _Winter Sallets_, 7; vide _Appendix_. + + _Wood-Sorrel_, 47 + + _Worms in Fennel, and Sellery_, 17 + + _Wormwood_, 49 + + +Y. + + _Youth to preserve_, 85 + + + * * * * * + + + + +FOOTNOTES + + +[Footnote 1: _Lord Viscount_ Brouncker, _Chancellor to the Late Qu. +Consort, now_ Dowager. _The Right Honourable_ Cha. Montague, _Esq; +Chancellor of the_ Exchequer.] + +[Footnote 2: _Si quid temporis a civilibus negotiis quibis totum jam +intenderat animum, suffurari potuit, colendis agris, priscos illos +Romanos_ Numam Pompilium, Cincinnatum, Catonem, Fabios, Cicerones, +_aliosque virtute claros viros imitare; qui in magno honore constituti, +vites putare, stercorare agros, & irrigare nequaquam turpe & inhone stum +putarunt_. In Vit. _Plin._ 2.] + +[Footnote 3: Ut hujusmodi historiam vix dum incohatum, non ante +absolvendam putem. + +Exitio terras quam dabit una dies. _D. Raius_ Praefat. Hist. Plan.] + +[Footnote 4: Olera a frigidis distinct. _See_ Spartianus in Pescennio. +Salmas. in Jul. Capitolin.] + +[Footnote 5: + + Panis erat primis virides mortalibus Herbae; + Quas tellus nullo sollicitante dabat. + Et modo carpebant vivaci cespite gramen; + Nunc epulae tenera fronde cacumen erant. + +Ovid, Fastor. IV.] + +[Footnote 6: [Greek: kaloumen gar lachana ta oros ten hemeneran +chreian], Theophrast. Plant. 1. VII. cap. 7.] + +[Footnote 7: Gen. I. 29.] + +[Footnote 8: Plutarch Sympos.] + +[Footnote 9: Salmas. in Solin. _against_ Hieron. Mercurialis.] + +[Footnote 10: Galen. 2R. Aliment. cap. l. Et Simp. Medic. Averroes, lib. +V. Golloc.] + +[Footnote 11: Plin. lib. XIX. c. 4.] + +[Footnote 12: Convictus facilis, fine arte mensa. Mart. Ep. 74.] + +[Footnote 13: [Greek: Apuron trophui], _which_ Suidas _calls_ [Greek: +lachana], Olera quae cruda sumuntur ex Aceto. Harduin in loc.] + +[Footnote 14: Plin. H. Nat. _lib. xix. cap. 8._] + +[Footnote 15: _De_ R.R. _cap. clvii_.] + +[Footnote 16: [Greek: 'Ephthos, dosikuos, apalos, aluos, ouretikos]. +Athen.] + +[Footnote 17: Cucumis elixus delicatior, innocentior. Athenaeus.] + +[Footnote 18: Eubulus.] + +[Footnote 19: In Lactuca occultatum a Venere Adonin cecinit +_Callimachus_, quod Allegorice interpretatus _Athenaeus_ illuc referendum +putat, quod in Venerem hebetiores fiant Lactucis vescentes assidue.] + +[Footnote 20: Apud Sueton.] + +[Footnote 21: Vopiseus Tacit. _For the rest both of the Kinds and +Vertues_ of Lettuce, _See_ Plin. H. Nat. _l. xix. c. 8. and xx. c. 7_. +Fernel. &c.] + +[Footnote 22: De Legib.] + +[Footnote 23: _Hor_. Epod. II.] + +[Footnote 24: De Simp. Medic. L. vii.] + +[Footnote 25: _Lib._ ii. _cap._ 3.] + +[Footnote 26: Exoneraturas Ventrem mihi Villica Malvas Attulit, & +varias, quas habet hortus, Opes. + +_Mart. Lib. x._ + +_And our sweet Poet_: + + ----Nulla est humanior herba, + Nulla magis suavi commoditate bona est, + Omnia tam placide regerat, blandequerelaxat, + Emollitque vias, nec sinit esse rudes. + +Cowl. _Plan._ L. 4.] + +[Footnote 27: Cic _ad Attic_.] + +[Footnote 28: Sueton _in Claudi._] + +[Footnote 29: Sen. Ep. lxiii.] + +[Footnote 30: Plin. N.H. _l. xxi_. c. 23.] + +[Footnote 31: Transact. Philos. _Num._ 202.] + +[Footnote 32: Apitius, _lib. vii. cap. 13_.] + +[Footnote 33: Philos. Transact. _Num._ 69. _Journey to_ Paris.] + +[Footnote 34: Pratensibus optima fungis Natura est: aliis male creditur. +_Hor. Sat. l. 7. Sat. 4._] + +[Footnote 35: Bacon _Nat. Hist._ 12. Cent. vii. 547, 548, &c.] + +[Footnote 36: Gaffend. _Vita Peirs._ l. iv. Raderus _Mart._ l. Epig. +xlvi. In ponticum--_says, within four Days_.] + +[Footnote 37: O Sanctas gentes, quibus haec nascuntur in hortis +Numina****---- _Juv. Sat. 15._] + +[Footnote 38: Herodotus.] + +[Footnote 39: [Greek: hora to rhadios phaines], quia tertio a fatu die +appareat.] + +[Footnote 40: De diaeta _lib._ ii. _cap._ 25.] + +[Footnote 41: De Aliment. Facult. _lib._ ii.] + +[Footnote 42: _Philos. Transact._ Vol. xvii. Num. 205. p. 970.] + +[Footnote 43: _Plin._ H. Nat. Lib. xix. cap. 3. & xx. c. 22. See Jo. +Tzetzes Chil. vi. 48. & xvii. 119.] + +[Footnote 44: Spanheim, De usu & Praest. Numis. Dissert. 4to. _It was +sometimes also the Reverse_ of Jupiter Hammon.] + +[Footnote 45: + [Greek: oud an eidoies ge moi] + [Greek: Ton plouton auton k- to Bat-ou silphion]. + _Aristoph_. in Pluto. Act. iv. Sc. 3.] + +[Footnote 46: _Of which some would have it a courser sort_ inamoeni +odoris, _as the same Comedian names it in his_ Equites, _p. 239. and +240_. Edit. Basil. _See likewise this discuss'd, together with its +Properties, most copiously, in_ Jo. Budaeus _a_ Stapul. _Comment. in_ +Theophrast. lib. vi. cap. 1. _and_ Bauhin. _Hist. Plant._ lib. xxvii. +cap. 53.] + +[Footnote 47: Vide _Cardanum_ de usu Cibi.] + +[Footnote 48: _Vol._ xx.] + +[Footnote 49: Cowley: + + [Greek: Oud oson in malache te k- asphodelo meg oneiar] + [Greek: Krupsantes gar echousi theoi Bion anthropoisi.] + Hesiod.] + +[Footnote 50: _Concerning this of Insects, See Mr._ Ray's _Hist. Plant. +li. l. cap. 24_.] + +[Footnote 51: _The poyson'd Weeds: I have seen a Man, who was so +poyson'd with it, that the Skin peel'd off his Face, and yet he never +touch'd it, only looked on it as he pass'd by_. _Mr._ Stafford, _Philos. +Transact._ Vol. III. Num. xl. p. 794.] + +[Footnote 52: Cowley, _Garden_, Miscel. Stanz. 8.] + +[Footnote 53: Sapores minime Consentientes [Greek: kai sumpleko-uas +ouchi symphonous haphas]: Haec despicere ingeniosi est artificis: +_Neither did the Artist mingle his Provisions without extraordinary +Study and Consideration_: [Greek: Alla mixas panta kata symphonian]. +Horum singulis seorsum assumptis, tu expedito: Sic ego tanquam Oraculo +jubeo.----Itaque literarum ignarum Coquum, tu cum videris, & qui +Democriti scripta omnia non perlegerit, vel potius, impromptu non +habeat, eum deride ut futilem: Ac ilium Mercede conducito, qui Epicuri +Canonen usu plane didicerit, _&c. as it follows in the_ Gastronomia _of_ +Archestratus, Athen. lib. xxiii. _Such another_ Bragadoccio Cook Horace +_describes_ + + Nec sibi Coenarum quivis temere arroget artem + Non prius exacta tenui ratione saporem. + _Sat. lib. ii. Sat. 4._] + +[Footnote 54: Milton's _Paradise Lost_.] + +[Footnote 55: + + ---- Qui + Tingat olus siccum muria vaser in calice empta + Ipse sacrum irrorans piper ---- Pers. _Sat._ vi.] + +[Footnote 56: _Dr._ Grew, Lect. vi. c. 2. 3.] + +[Footnote 57: _Muffet_, de Diaeta, _c._ 23.] + +[Footnote 58: _Dr._ Grew, _Annat. Plant._ Lib. l. Sect. iv. cap. l, &c. +_See also_, Transact. _Num._ 107. _Vol._ ix.] + +[Footnote 59: _Philosoph. Transact._ Vol. III. Num. xl. p. 799.] + +[Footnote 60: Mart. _Epig. lib._ xi. 39.] + +[Footnote 61: Athen. l. 2. _Of which Change of Diet see_ Plut. iv. +_Sympos._ 9. Plinii _Epist._ I. _ad Eretrium._] + +[Footnote 62: Virg. _Moreto_.] + +[Footnote 63: Hor. _Sat. I. 2. Sat. 4._] + +[Footnote 64: Mart. _Ep. l._ v. _Ep. 17_.] + +[Footnote 65: _Concerning the Use of Fruit (bessides many others) +whether best to be eaten before, or after Meals? Published by a +Physician of_ Rochel, _and render'd out of_ French _into_ English. +_Printed by_ T. Basset _in_ Fleetstreet.] + +[Footnote 66: Achilles, Patroclus, Automedon. _Iliad. ix. & alibi_.] + +[Footnote 67: _For so some pronounce it_, V. Athenaeum Deip. _Lib._ II. +_Cap._ 26 [Greek: ed-] quasi [Greek: edusma], _perhaps for that it +incites Appetite, and causes Hunger, which is the best Sauce_.] + +[Footnote 68: Cratinus in Glauco.] + +[Footnote 69: Nat. Hist. IV. _Cent._ VII. 130. Se Arist. Prob. _Sect._ +xx. _Quaest._ 36. _Why some Fruits and Plants are best raw, others +boil'd, roasted_, &c, _as becoming sweeter; but the Crude more sapid and +grateful_.] + +[Footnote 70: Card. _Contradicent_. Med. l. iv. _Cant._ 18. Diphilus +_not at all_. Athenaeus.] + +[Footnote 71: _Sir_ Tho. Brown's _Miscel._] + +[Footnote 72: Caule suburbano qui ficcis crevit in agris Dulcior,-- +--Hor. _Sat._ l. 2. Section 4.] + +[Footnote 73: Transact. Philos. _Num._ xxv.] + +[Footnote 74: _Num._ xviii.] + +[Footnote 75: _Thesaur. Sanit._ c. 2.] + +[Footnote 76: _As_ Delcampius _interprets the Place_.] + +[Footnote 77: Scaliger ad Card. Exercit. 213.] + +[Footnote 78: _Cel._ Lib. Cap. 4.] + +[Footnote 79: Plin. _Nat. Hist. l. 3. c. 12._] + +[Footnote 80: Hanc brevitatem Vitae (_speaking of Horses_) fortasse +homini debet, _Verul. Hist._ Vit. & Mort. _See this throughly +controverted_, Macrob. _Saturn._ l. vii. c. v.] + +[Footnote 81: Arist. _Hist. Animal. l._ v. _c._ 14.] + +[Footnote 82: [Greek: anomoia sasiazei].] + +[Footnote 83: Hor. _Sat. l._ II. _Sat._ 2. Macr. _Sat. l._ VII.] + +[Footnote 84: Gen. ix.] + +[Footnote 85: Metam. i. Fab. iii. _and_ xv.] + +[Footnote 86: Gen. xi. 19.] + +[Footnote 87: Gen. ix.] + +[Footnote 88: _Porphyr._ de Abstin. _Proclum_, _Jambleum_, &c.] + +[Footnote 89: Strom, vii.] + +[Footnote 90: Praep. Lv. passim.] + +[Footnote 91: Tertul. _de Tejun._ cap. iv. Hieron. _advers._ Jovin.] + +[Footnote 92: Sen. _Epist._ 108.] + +[Footnote 93: 1 _Cor._ viii. 8. 1. _Tim._ iv. 1. 3. 14. _Rom._ ii. 3.] + +[Footnote 94: + + Has Epulas habuit teneri gens aurea mundis + Et coenae ingentis tune caput ipsa sui. + Semide unque meo creverunt corpora succo, + Materiam tanti sanguinis ille dedit. + Tune neque fraus nota est, neque vis, neque foeda libido; + Haec nimis proles saeva caloris erat. + Si sacrum illorum, sit detestabile nomen, + Qui primi servae regne dedere gulae. + Hinc vitiis patefacta via est, morbisq; secutis sas, + Se lethi facies exeruere novae. + Ah, fuge crudeles Animantum sanguine men + Quasque tibi obsonat mors inimica dapes. + Poscas tandem aeger, si sanus negligis, herbas. + Esse cibus nequeunt? at medicamen erunt. + _Colci_ Plaut. lib. 1. Lactuca.] + +[Footnote 95: Gen. ix.] + +[Footnote 96: Ancyra xiv.] + +[Footnote 97: Can. Apost. 50.] + +[Footnote 98: Clem. Paedag. _Lib._ ii. c. l. _Vide_ Prudent. _Hymn_. +[Greek: cha themerinon]: Nos Oloris Coma, nos siliqua facta legumine +multitudo paraveris innocuis Epulis.] + +[Footnote 99: xv. _Acts_, 20, 29.] + +[Footnote 100: _Philo_ de Vit. Contemp. _Joseph_. Antiq. _Lib._ 13 +_Cap._ 9.] + +[Footnote 101: _Hackwell_. Apolog.] + +[Footnote 102: Hippoc. de vetere Medicina, Cap. 6, 7.] + +[Footnote 103: 2 _Tim._ iv. 3.] + +[Footnote 104: _This, with their prodigious Ignorance_. _See_ Mab. des +Etudes Monast. _Part._ 2. c. 17.] + +[Footnote 105: _Dr._ Lister's _Journey to_ Paris. _See L'Apocalyps_ de +Meliton, _ou Revelation des Mysteres Cenobitiques_.] + +[Footnote 106: Plantarum usus latissime patet, & in omni vitae parte +occurrit, sine illis laute, sine illis commode non vivitur, ac nec +vivitur omnino. Quaecunque ad victu necessaria sunt, quaecunque ad +delicias faciunt, e locupletissimo suo penu abunde subministrant: Quanto +ex eis mensa innocentior, mundior, salubrior, quam ex animalium caede & +Laniena! Homo certe natura animal carnivorum non est; nullis ad praedam & +rapinam armis instructum; non dentibus exertis & ferratis, non unguibus +aduncis: Manus ad fructos colligendos, dentes ad mandendos comparati; +nee legimus se ante diluvium carnes ad esum concessas, &c. _Raii Hist. +Plant. Lib._ 1. _cap._ 24.] + +[Footnote 107: Mart. _lib._ x. _Epig._ 44.] + +[Footnote 108: Barl. _Eleg. lib._ 3.] + +[Footnote 109: Athen. Deip. _l._ i.] + +[Footnote 110: Cowley, _Garden. Stanz._ 6.] + +[Footnote 111: _Hence in_ Macrobius Sat. lib. vii. c. 5. _we find_ +Eupolis _the Comedian in his_ aeges, _bringing in Goats boasting the +Variety of their Food,_ [Greek: Boskometh ules apo pantodaoes, elates], +&c. _After which follows a Banquet of innumerable sorts_.] + +[Footnote 112: Esa. lxv. 25.] + +[Footnote 113: Bina tunc jugera populo Romano satis erat, nullique +majorem modum attribuit, quo servos paulo ante principis Neronis, +contemptis hujus spatii Virdariis, piscinas juvat habere majores, +gratumque, si non aliquem & culinas. _Plin. Hist. Nat. lib._ xviii. +_c._ 2.] + +[Footnote 114: Interea gustus elements per omnia quaerunt. _Juv. Sat. +4._] + +[Footnote 115: Cicero. _Epist._ Lib. 7. _Ep._ 26. _Complaining of a +costly Sallet, that had almost cost him his Life_.] + +[Footnote 116: Valeriana, _That of_ Lectucini, Achilleia, Lysimachia, +Fabius, Cicero, Lentulus, Piso, &c. a Fabis, Cicere, Lente, Pisis bene +serendis dicti, _Plin._] + +[Footnote 117: Mirum esset non licere pecori Carduis vesci, non licet +plebei, &c. _And in another Place_, Quoniam portenta quoque terrarum in +ganeam vertimus, etiam quae refugeant quadrupeded consciae, _Plin._ Hist. +Nat. l. xix. c. 8.] + +[Footnote 118: Gra. Falisc. _Gyneget_. Was. _See concerning this Excess_ +Macr. _Sat. l. 2. c. 9._ & sequ.] + +[Footnote 119: Horti maxime placebant, quia non egerent igni, +parcerentque ligno, expedita res, & parata semper, unde _Acetaria_ +appellantur, facilia concoqui, nee oneratura sensum cibo, & quae minime +accenderent desiderium panis. _Plin. Hist. Nat. Lib._ xix. _c._ 4. _And +of this exceeding Frugality of the_ Romans, _till after the_ Mithridatic +_War, see_ Athenaeus Deip. Lib. 6. cap. 21. Horat. _Serm. Sat._ 1.] + +[Footnote 120: Nequam esse in domo matrem familias (etenim haec cura +Foeminae dicebatur) ubi indiligens esset hortus.] + +[Footnote 121: Alterum succidium. _Cic._ in _Catone_. Tiberias _had a +Tribute of_ Skirrits _paid him_.] + +[Footnote 122: Hor. _Sat. l. 2._ Vix prae vino sustinet palpebras, eunti +in consilium, &c. _See the Oration of_ C. _Titius_ de Leg. Fan. Mac +_Sat. l. 2. c. 12._] + +[Footnote 123: Milton's _Paradise_, 1. v. ver. 228.] + +[Footnote 124: + + At victus illa aetas cui secimus aurea nomen + Fructibus arboreis, & quas humus educat herbis + Fortunata fuit.----_Met. xv._] + +[Footnote 125: Bene moratus venter.] + +[Footnote 126: TAB. II.] + +[Footnote 127: + + Foelix, quem misera procul ambitione remotum, + Parvus ager placide, parvus & hortus, alit. + Praebet ager quicquid frugi natura requirit, + Hortus habet quicquid luxuriosa petit, + Caetera follicitae speciosa incommoda vitae + Permittit stultis quaerere, habere malis. + _Cowley_, Pl. lib. iv.] + +[Footnote 128: Plin. Athenaeus, Macrobius, Bacon, Boyle, Digby, _&c._] + + * * * * * + +_An Edition of one thousand copies was designed by Richard Ellis +and printed under his supervision at The Haddon Craftsmen, Camden, +New Jersey_. + + * * * * * + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Acetaria: A Discourse of Sallets, by John Evelyn + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACETARIA: A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS *** + +***** This file should be named 15517.txt or 15517.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/5/1/15517/ + +Produced by David Garcia and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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