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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/15363-0.txt b/15363-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ec3367b --- /dev/null +++ b/15363-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1921 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of Carving and Serving, by Mrs. D. A. Lincoln + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you +will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before +using this eBook. + +Title: Carving and Serving + +Author: Mrs. D. A. Lincoln + +Release Date: March 15, 2005 [eBook #15363] +[Most recently updated: October 7, 2021] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +Produced by: Jason Isbell and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARVING AND SERVING *** + + + + +CARVING AND SERVING + +BY MRS. D.A. LINCOLN +AUTHOR OF ”THE BOSTON COOK BOOK” + +BOSTON +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY +1906 + +_Copyright, 1886_, BY MRS. D.A. LINCOLN. + +University Press: +JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS + TIP OF THE SIRLOIN, OR RIB ROAST + SIRLOIN ROAST + THE BACK OF THE RUMP + FILLET OF BEEF OR TENDERLOIN + ROUND OF BEEF, FILLET OF VEAL, OR FRICANDEAU OF VEAL + BEEFSTEAK + LEG OF MUTTON OR LAMB, OR KNUCKLE OF VEAL + LEG OF VENISON + SADDLE OF MUTTON + SADDLE OF VENISON + HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON + LOIN OF MUTTON, LAMB, VEAL, PORK, OR VENISON + SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR VEAL + FOREQUARTER OF LAMB OR VEAL + NECK OF VEAL + BREAST OF VEAL + CALF’S HEAD + ROAST PIG + HAM + TONGUE + CORNED BEEF + CHARTREUSE, OR PRESSED MEAT + TO CUT UP A CHICKEN FOR A STEW OR FRICASSEE + BOILED FOWL OR TURKEY + BROILED CHICKEN + ROAST TURKEY + ROAST GOOSE + ROAST DUCK + PIGEONS + PARTRIDGES + LARDED GROUSE + RABBIT + SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS + FISH + BAKED FISH + SCALLOPED DISHES, MEAT PIES, ENTRÉES, ETC. + SALADS + VEGETABLES + SOUPS + TEA AND COFFEE + PIES + PUDDINGS + MOULDS OF PUDDING, CREAMS, CHARLOTTE RUSSE, ICE-CREAM, ETC. + FRUIT AND NUTS + THE THICKNESS OF SLICES + UTENSILS FOR CARVING AND SERVING + LAST BUT NOT LEAST + + + + +CARVING AND SERVING. + + + + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS. + + +“Do you teach your pupils how to carve?” + +“Please give us a lecture on carving; my husband says he will come if +you will.” + +I have been so frequently addressed in this way that I have decided to +publish a manual on the Art of Carving. Instruction in this art cannot +be given at a lecture with any profit to my pupils or satisfaction to +myself. One cannot learn by simply seeing a person carve a few times. As +much as any other art, it requires study; and success is not attainable +without much practice. There are certain rules which should be +thoroughly understood; if followed faithfully in daily practice, they +will help more than mere observation. + +This manual is not offered as a guide for special occasions, company +dinners, etc., nor for those whose experience renders it unnecessary, or +whose means allow them to employ one skilled in the art. But it is +earnestly hoped that the suggestions here offered will aid those who +desire, at their own table in everyday home life, to acquire that ease +and perfection of manner which, however suddenly it may be confronted +with obstacles, will be equal to every occasion. + +Printed rules for carving are usually accompanied with cuts showing the +position of the joint or fowl on the platter, and having lines +indicating the method of cutting. But this will not be attempted in this +manual, as such illustrations seldom prove helpful; for the actual thing +before us bears faint resemblance to the pictures, which give us only +the surface, with no hint of what may be inside. + +It is comparatively a slight matter to carve a solid mass of lean meat. +It is the bones, tough gristle, and tendons, that interfere with the +easy progress of the knife. To expect any one to carve well without any +conception of the internal structure of what may be placed before him is +as absurd as to expect one to amputate a limb successfully who has no +knowledge of human anatomy. + +Some notion of the relative position of bones, joints, fat, tough and +tender muscles, is the first requisite to good carving. All agree that +skill in carving may be acquired by practice; and so it may. Any one can +divide a joint if he cut and hack at it long enough, and so learn after +a time just where to make the right cut. But a more satisfactory way is +to make a careful study before the material is cooked, and thus learn +the exact position of every joint, bone, and muscle. Become familiar +with a shoulder or a leg of mutton; locate the joints by moving the +bones in the joints, or by cutting it into sections, some time when it +is to be used for a stew. Or remove the bone in the leg by scraping the +meat away at either end. Learn to distinguish the different cuts of +meat. The best way to learn about carving poultry and game is to cut +them up for a stew or fricassee, provided care be taken not to chop +them, but to disjoint them skilfully. + +Then, when you attempt to carve, do the best you can every time. Never +allow yourself to be careless about it, even should the only spectators +be your wife and children. But do not make your first effort in the art +at a company dinner. Every lady should learn the art. There is no reason +why she may not excel in it, as she has every opportunity to study the +joint or fowl before cooking. Strength is not required, so much as +neatness and care. A firm, steady hand, a cool, collected manner, and +confidence in one’s ability will help greatly. Children also should be +taught this accomplishment, and should be taught it as soon as they can +handle a knife safely. If parents would allow the children to share +their duties at the daily family table, and occasionally when company is +present, a graceful manner would soon be acquired. When called upon to +preside over their own homes there would less frequently be heard the +apology, “Father always carved at home, and I have had no practice.” The +only recollection that I now have of a dinner at a friend’s some years +ago is the easy and skilful way a young son of my hostess presided at +the head of the table, while the father occupied the place of guest at +the mother’s right hand. + +One must learn first of all to carve neatly, without scattering crumbs +or splashing gravy over the cloth or platter; also to cut straight, +uniform slices. This may seem an easy matter; but do we often see +pressed beef, tongue, or even bread cut as it should be? Be careful to +divide the material in such a manner that each person may be served +equally well. Have you never received all flank, or a hard dry wing, +while another guest had all tenderloin, or the second joint? After a +little experience you can easily distinguish between the choice portions +and the inferior. Lay each portion on the plate with the browned or best +side up. Keep it compact, not mussy; and serve a good portion of meat, +not a bone with hardly any meat on it. After all are served, the portion +on the platter should not be left jagged, rough, and sprawling, but +should look inviting enough to tempt one to desire a second portion. + +Care should be taken to carve in such a way as to get the best effect. A +nice joint is often made less inviting from having been cut with the +grain, while meat of rather poor quality is made more tender and +palatable if divided across the grain. Where the whole of the joint is +not required, learn to carve economically, that it may be left in good +shape for another dinner. + +After you have learned to do the simplest work neatly and gracefully, +much painstaking will be necessary in acquiring the power to accomplish +with elegance the more difficult tasks. For to reach the highest degree +of excellence in the art, one must be able to carve the most difficult +joint with perfect skill and ease. + +But after all this study and a great amount of practice failure often +happens, and blame is laid upon the carver which really belongs to some +other person,--the butcher, the cook, the table-girl, or the guest. Not +all men who sell meat know or practice the best way of cutting up meat. +Much may be done by the butcher and by the cook to facilitate the work +of the carver. These helps will be noticed more particularly under the +head of special dishes. + +An essential aid to easy carving, and one often overlooked, is that the +platter be large enough to hold not merely the joint or fowl while +whole, but also the several portions as they are detached. + +The joint should be placed in the middle of the platter, in the position +indicated under special directions. There should be sufficient space on +either side for the portions of meat as they are carved; that is, space +on the bottom, none of the slices being allowed to hang over the edge of +the dish. If necessary, provide an extra dish. The persistency with +which some housekeepers cling to a small dish for fear the meat will +look lost on a larger one often makes successful carving impossible. + +The platter should be placed near the carver, that he may easily reach +any part of the joint. + +The cook should see that all skewers, strings, etc., be removed before +sending the meat or fish to the table. It is extremely awkward to find +one’s knife impeded by a bit of twine. + +The carver may stand or sit, as suits his convenience. Anything that is +done easily is generally done gracefully, but when one works at a +disadvantage awkwardness is always the result. + +A very important matter is the condition of the knife. It should have a +handle easy to grasp, a long, thin, sharp, pointed blade, and be of a +size adapted to the article to be carved and to the person using it. A +lady or a child will prefer a small knife. Be as particular to have the +knife sharp as to have it bright and clean; and always sharpen it before +announcing the dinner. It is very annoying for a person to be obliged to +wait and sharpen the knife, or to turn the meat round to get it into the +right position. Never allow a carving-knife to be used to cut bread, or +for any other than its legitimate purpose. + +The fork should be strong, with long tines, and should have a guard. + +Place the fork deep enough in the meat so that you can hold it firmly in +position. Hold the knife and fork in an easy, natural way. Many persons +grasp the fork as if it were a dagger, and stab it into the meat; but +such a display of force is unnecessary and clownish. The hand should be +over the handle of the fork, the palm down, and the forefinger extended. + +Do not appear to make hard work of carving. Avoid all scowling or +contortion of the mouth if a difficult spot be touched. Don’t let your +countenance betray the toughness of the joint or your own lack of skill. +Work slowly but skilfully, and thus avoid the danger of landing the +joint in your neighbor’s lap. + +Do not be guilty of the discourtesy of asking each guest, before you +begin to carve, to choose between roast lamb and warmed-over beef, or +between pie and pudding, or whatever you may have, and thus cause a +guest who may have chosen the lamb or the pie the discomfort of knowing +that it has been cut solely for her. Such economy may be excusable in +the privacy of one’s own family, but not in the presence of invited +guests. First divide or carve what you have to serve, and then offer the +choice to your guests. + +“To carve and serve decently and in good order” is indeed mainly the +duty of the host; but there is sometimes an unfortunate lack of skill on +the part of the hostess in her share of the serving. A certain pride is +permitted to her, and is expected of her, in serving neatly her tea, +coffee, and soup, in dividing appropriately her pies and puddings, and +even in cutting and arranging deftly the bread upon her board. + +A word to the guest, and then we will proceed to explicit directions. + +Never stare at the carver. Remember you are invited to dine, not to take +a lesson in carving. Appear perfectly unconscious of his efforts; a +glance now and then will give you sufficient insight into his method. +There often seems to be an irresistible fascination about carving which +silences all tongues and draws all eyes to the head of the table. The +most skilful carver will sometimes fail if conscious of being watched. +With a little tact the hostess can easily engage the attention of her +guests, that the carver may not be annoyed. + +Should your preference be asked, and you have any, name it at once, +provided there is also enough for others who may prefer the same kind. +Remember there are only two fillets, or side-bones, or second joints; if +you are the first to be served, do not test the skill of the carver by +preferring a portion difficult to obtain. + +Many of these cautions may seem uncalled for, but they have been +suggested by personal observation of their necessity. People of good +breeding would never err in any of these ways; but alas, not all people +are well bred, and innate selfishness often crops out in small matters. + +The following explicit directions have not been taken from books. They +were given to the writer a few years ago by one who was an adept in the +art, who had received her instruction from a skilful surgeon, and who at +her own table gave a practical demonstration of the fact that a lady can +not only “carve decently and in good order,” but with ease and elegance. + + + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS. + + +TIP OF THE SIRLOIN, OR RIB ROAST. + +It is easier to carve this joint by cutting across the ribs, parallel +with the backbone, but that is cutting with the grain; and meat, +especially beef, seems more tender if cut across the grain. + +Place it on the platter with the backbone at the right. If the backbones +be not removed before cooking, place the fork in the middle and cut +close to the backbone down to the ribs. Shave off the thick, gristly +cord near the backbone, as this, if left on, interferes with cutting +thin slices. Then cut, from the side nearest you, thin uniform slices +parallel with the ribs. Run the knife under and separate them from the +bone. Many prefer to remove the bone and skewer the meat into a roll +before cooking. It may then be laid, flesh down, on the dish, and carved +across the top horizontally in thin slices; or if you find it easier, +place it with the skin surface up, and carve down from the flesh side +nearest you. + +This style of serving is generally preferred, but there are advantages +in retaining the bone; for the thin end when rolled under is not cooked +to such a nice degree of crispness, and the slices are usually larger +than desired. Again, the ribs, by keeping the meat in position, secure +for it a clean cut, and not one broken and jagged, and the thin end may +be served or not, as you please. + + +SIRLOIN ROAST. + +The backbone or thickest end should be at the right end of the dish. + +Carve a sirloin roast by cutting several thin slices parallel with the +ribs. Then cut down across the ribs near the backbone, and also at the +flank end, and separate the slices. + +The slices should be as thin as possible and yet remain slices, not +shavings. Turn the meat over and cut out the tenderloin and slice it in +the same manner across the grain; or turn the meat over and remove the +tenderloin first. Many prefer to leave the tenderloin to be served cold. +Cut slices of the crisp fat on the flank in the same way, and serve to +those who wish it. This is a part which many dislike, but some persons +consider it very choice. Always offer it unless you know the tastes of +those whom you are serving. + + +THE BACK OF THE RUMP. + +A roast from the back of the rump, if cooked without removing the bone, +should be placed on the platter with the backbone on the farther side. +Cut first underneath to loosen the meat from the bone. Then, if the +family be large and all the meat is to be used, the slices may be cut +lengthwise; but should only a small quantity be needed, cut crosswise +and only from the small end. It is then in better shape for the second +day. + +It is more economical to serve the poorer parts the first day, as they +are never better than when hot and freshly cooked. Reserve the more +tender meat to be served cold. + + +FILLET OF BEEF OR TENDERLOIN. + +Before cooking, remove all the fat, and every fibre of the tough white +membrane. Press it into shape again and lard it, or cover it with its +own fat. If this fibre be not removed, the sharpest knife will fail to +cut through it. Place it on the platter with the larger end at the +right; or if two short fillets be used, place the thickest ends in the +middle. Carve from the thickest part, in thin, uniform slices. + + +ROUND OF BEEF, FILLET OF VEAL, OR FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +These are placed on the platter, flesh side up, and carved in horizontal +slices, care being taken to carve evenly, so that the portion remaining +may be in good shape. As the whole of the browned outside comes off with +the first slices, divide this into small pieces, to be served if desired +with the rare, juicy, inside slices. + + +BEEFSTEAK. + +It may seem needless to direct one how to carve a sirloin steak, but it +sometimes appears to require more skill than to carve poultry, as those +who have been so unfortunate as to receive only the flank can testify. + +I believe most strongly, as a matter of economy, in removing the bone, +and any tough membrane or gristle that will not be eaten, before cooking +the steak. If there be a large portion of the flank, cook that in some +other way. With a small, sharp knife cut close to the rib on each side, +round the backbone, and remove the tough white membrane on the edge of +the tenderloin. Leave the fat on the upper edge, and the kidney fat +also, or a part of it, if it be very thick. There need be no waste or +escape of juices if the cutting be done quickly, neatly, and just before +cooking. Press the tenderloin--that is, the small portion on the under +side of the bone--close to the upper part, that the shape may not be +changed. + +In serving place it on the dish with the tenderloin next to the carver. +Cut in long narrow strips from the fat edge down through the tenderloin. +Give each person a bit of tenderloin, upper part, and fat. If the bone +be not removed before cooking, remove the tenderloin first by cutting +close to the bone, and divide it into narrow pieces; then remove the +meat from the upper side of the bone and cut in the same manner. A long, +narrow strip about as wide as the steak is thick is much more easily +managed on one’s plate than a square piece. Serve small portions, and +then, if more be desired, help again. + +In carving large rump steaks or round steaks, cut always across the +grain, in narrow strips. Carving-knives are always sharper than +table-knives, and should do the work of cutting the fibres of the meat; +then the short fibres may easily be separated by one’s own knife. There +is a choice in the several muscles of a large rump steak, and it is +quite an art to serve it equally. + + +LEG OF MUTTON OR LAMB, OR KNUCKLE OF VEAL. + +Before cooking, remove the rump-bones at the larger end. For a small +family it is more economical to remove all the bones and fill the cavity +with stuffing. Tie or skewer it into compact shape; there is then less +waste, as the meat that is not used at the first dinner does not become +dry and hard by keeping. + +In serving, the thickest part of the leg should be toward the back of +the platter. Put the fork in at the top, turn the leg toward you to +bring the thickest part up, and cut through to the bone. Cut several +slices of medium thickness, toward the thickest part, then slip the +knife under and cut them away from the bone. A choice bit of crisp fat +may be found on the larger end, and there is a sweet morsel near the +knuckle or lower joint. If more be required, slice from the under side +of the bone in the same manner. + + +LEG OF VENISON. + +This is carved in the same way as a leg of mutton,--through the thickest +part down to the bone. + + +SADDLE OF MUTTON. + +Remove the ends of the ribs and roll the flank under before cooking. + +Place it on the platter with the tail end at the left. Put the fork in +firmly near the centre, and carve down to the ribs in long slices, +parallel with the backbone, and the whole length. Slip the knife under +and separate the slices from the ribs; do the same on the other side of +the back. Divide the slices if very long. Cut the crisp fat from the +sides in slanting slices. Turn partly over and remove the choice bit of +tenderloin and kidney fat under the ribs. + +Carving a saddle of mutton in this way is really cutting with the grain +of the meat, but it is the method adopted by the best authorities. It is +only the choicest quality of mutton, and that which has been kept long +enough to be very tender, that is prepared for cooking in this way. The +fibres are not so tough as those of beef; there is no perceptible +difference in the tenderness of the meat when cut in this manner, and +there is an advantage in obtaining slices which are longer, and yet as +thin as those from cutting across the grain. + + +SADDLE OF VENISON. + +Carve the same as a saddle of mutton. Serve some of the dish gravy with +each portion. Venison and mutton soon become chilled, the fat +particularly, thus losing much of their delicacy. Send them to the table +very hot, on hot platters; carve quickly, and serve at once on warm +plates. + + +HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON. + +This is the leg and loin undivided, or, as more commonly called, the +hind quarter. + +The butcher should split the whirl-bone, disjoint the backbone, and +split the ribs in the flank. The rump-bone and aitch-bone may be removed +before cooking. Place it on the platter with the loin or backbone +nearest the carver. Separate the leg from the loin; this is a difficult +joint to divide when the bones have not been removed, but it can be done +with practice. When the leg has been taken off, carve that as directed +on page 19. Carve the loin by first cutting off the flank and dividing +it, then divide between each rib in the loin, or cut long slices +parallel with the backbone, in the same way as directed for a saddle of +mutton. Some English authorities recommend cutting perpendicularly +through the thickest part of the leg near the knuckle, and then cutting +across at right angles with this first cut, in long thin slices, the +entire length of the joint; the slices are then separated from the bone +and divided as desired. When carved in this way the loin and leg are not +divided. This is not so economical as the first method. + + +LOIN OF MUTTON, LAMB, VEAL, PORK, OR VENISON. + +These should always be divided at the joints in the backbone by the +butcher; then it is an easy matter to separate the ribs, serving one to +each person, with a portion of the kidney and fat if desired. But if the +butcher neglect to do this, and you have no cleaver with which to do it, +it is better to cut slices down to the ribs parallel with the backbone, +as directed in the saddle of mutton, than to suffer the annoyance of +hacking at the joints. + +Before cooking a loin of pork, gash through the fat between the ribs; +this will give more of the crisp fat, and will aid in separating the +ribs. + + +SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR VEAL. + +Place it on the platter with the thickest part up. From the thickest +part cut thin slices, slanting down to the knuckle; then make several +cuts across to the larger end, and remove these slices from the +shoulder-blade. Separate the blade at the shoulder-joint, and remove it. +Cut the meat under the blade in perpendicular slices. + +Any part of the forequarter of mutton is more tender and palatable, and +more easily carved, if before cooking it be boned and stuffed. Or it may +be boned, rolled, and corned. + + +FOREQUARTER OF LAMB OR VEAL. + +This is a difficult joint for a beginner, but after a little study and +practice one may manipulate it with dexterity. Some time when a lamb +stew or fricassee is to be prepared, study the joint carefully and +practice cutting it up, and thus become familiar with the position of +the shoulder-blade joint,--the only one difficult to reach. The backbone +should always be disjointed. The ribs should be divided across the +breast and at the junction of the breast-bone, and the butcher should +also remove the shoulder-blade and the bone in the leg. Unless the joint +be very young and tender, it is better to use the breast portion for a +stew or fricassee; but when nice and tender the breast may be roasted +with the other portions, as the choice gelatinous morsels near the +breast-bones are preferred by many. This joint consists of three +portions,--the shoulder or knuckle, the breast or brisket, and the ribs. +Put it on the platter with the backbone up. Put the fork in near the +knuckle. Cut through the flesh clear round the leg and well up on the +shoulder, but not too far on the breast. With the fork lift the leg away +from the shoulder, cutting in till you come to the joint, after +separating which, remove the leg to a separate dish, to be afterward +cut into thin slices through the thickest part. Cut across from left to +right where the ribs have been broken, separating the gristly breast +from the upper portion. Then remove the blade if it has not been done +before cooking. Divide each of these portions between the ribs, and +serve a piece of the rib, the breast, or a slice from the leg, as +preferred. + + +NECK OF VEAL. + +The vertebra should be disjointed, and the ribs cut on the inside +through the bone only, on the thin end. Place it on the platter with the +back up and cut across from left to right, where the ribs were divided, +separating the small ends of the ribs from the thicker upper portion; +then cut between each short rib. Carve from the back down in slanting +slices, then slip the knife under close to the ribs and remove the +slices. This gives a larger portion than the cutting of the slices +straight would give, and yet not so large as if each were helped to a +whole rib. Serve a short rib with each slice. + + +BREAST OF VEAL. + +Place it on the dish with the breast-bone or brisket nearest you. Cut +off the gristly brisket, then separate it into sections. Cut the upper +part parallel with the ribs, or between each rib if very small. Slice +the sweetbread, and serve a portion of brisket, rib, and sweetbread to +each person. + + +CALF’S HEAD. + +Calf’s head served whole is a favorite dish in England, but seldom seen +on American tables. For those who have this preference a few hints about +carving may be desirable. Place it on the platter with the face toward +the right. Cut from left to right, through the middle of the cheek down +to the bone, in several parallel slices of medium thickness; then +separate them from the bone. Cut down at the back of the throat and +slice the throat sweetbread. With the point of the knife cut out the +gelatinous portion near the eye, and serve to those who desire it. There +is a small portion of delicate lean meat to be found after removing the +jawbone. Some are fond of the palate, which lies under the head. The +tongue should be sliced, and a portion of this and of the brains offered +to each person. + + +ROAST PIG. + +This is sometimes partly divided before serving. Cut off the head and +divide it through the middle; then divide through the backbone. Place it +on the platter back to back, with half the head on each end of the dish. + +If the pig be very young, it is in better style to serve it whole. +Before cooking, truss the forelegs forward and the hind legs backward. +Place the pig on the platter with the head at the left. Cut off the +head, separating the neck-joint with the point of the knife, then cut +through the flesh on either side. Take off the shoulders by cutting in a +circle from under the foreleg round nearly to the backbone and down +again. Bend it forward and cut through the joint. Cut off the hams in +the same way. Then split the backbone the entire length and divide +between each rib. Cut slices from the thickest part of the hams and the +shoulders. The ribs are the choice portion, but those who like it at all +consider any part of it a delicacy. + + +HAM. + +If the ham is not to be served whole, the simplest and most economical +way is to begin near the smaller end and cut in very thin slices, on +each side of the bone. Divide the slices and arrange them neatly on the +dish, one lapping over another, with the fat edge outside. + +Where the whole ham is to appear on the table it should be trimmed +neatly, and the end of the bone covered with a paper ruffle. The +thickest part should be on the further side of the platter. Make an +incision through the thickest part, a little way from the smaller end. +Shave off in very thin slices, cutting toward the larger end and down to +the bone at every slice. The knife should be very sharp to make a clean +cut, and each slice should have a portion of the fat with the crisp +crust. To serve it hot a second day, fill the cavity with a bread +stuffing, cover it with buttered crumbs, and brown it in the oven. If it +is to be served cold, brown the crumbs first and then sprinkle them +over the stuffing. If this be done the edges will not dry and the +symmetry of the ham is preserved. Carve as before, toward the larger +end, and if more be needed, cut also from the other side of the bone. + +By filling the cavity again with stuffing, a ham may be served as a +whole one the third time and look as inviting as when first served. +Should there be two or three inches of the thickest end left for another +serving, saw off the bone, lay the meat flesh side up, with the fat on +the further side of the platter, and carve horizontally in thin slices. + + +TONGUE. + +The centre of the tongue is the choicest portion. Cut across in slices +as thin as a wafer. The tip of the tongue is more delicate when cut +lengthwise in thin slices, though this is not the usual practice. + + +CORNED BEEF. + +Corned beef should be put while hot into a pan or mould, in layers of +fat and lean, with the fibres running the long way of the pan. After +pressing it, place it on the platter and slice thinly from one end. This +gives uniform slices, cut across the grain, each one having a fair +proportion of fat and lean. + + +CHARTREUSE, OR PRESSED MEAT. + +Any moulds of meat, either plain or in jelly or rice, should be cut from +one end, or in the middle and toward either end, in uniform slices, the +thickness varying with the kind of meat. Be careful not to break them in +serving. If only a part of a slice be desired, divide it neatly. Help +also to the rice or jelly. + + +TO CUT UP A CHICKEN FOR A STEW OR FRICASSEE. + +Nothing is more unsightly and unappetizing than a portion of chicken +with the bones chopped at all sorts of angles, and with splinters of +bone in the meat. All bones will separate easily at the joint when the +cord or tendon and gristly portion connecting them have been cut. + +After the chicken has been singed and wiped, and the crop removed from +the end of the neck, place it in front of you with the breast up and the +neck at the left. With a small sharp knife make an incision in the thin +skin between the inside of the legs and the body. Cut through the skin +only, down toward the right side of the leg, and then on the left. Bend +the leg over toward you, and you will see where the flesh joins the body +and also where the joint is, for the bone will move in the joint. Cut +through the flesh close to the body, first on the right of the joint and +then on the left, and as you bend the leg over, cut the cord and +gristle in the joint, and this will free the leg from the body. Find the +joint in the leg and divide it neatly. Work the wing until you see where +the joint is, then cut through the flesh on the shoulder, bend the wing +up and cut down through the gristle and cord. Make a straight clean cut, +leaving no jagged edges. Divide the wing in the joint, and then remove +the leg and wing from the opposite side, and divide in the same way. +Make an incision in the skin near the vent, cut through the membrane +lying between the breast and the tail down to the backbone on each side, +remove the entrails, and break off the backbone just below the ribs. +Separate the side-bones from the back by cutting close to the backbone +from one end to the other on each side. This is a little difficult to +do; and in your first experiment it would be better not to divide it +until after boiling it, as it separates more easily after the connecting +gristle has been softened by cooking. Take off the neck close to the +back by cutting through the flesh and twisting or wringing it until the +bone is disjointed. + +Cut off the wish-bone in a slanting direction from the front of the +breast-bone down to the shoulder on each side. Cut through the cartilage +between the end of the collar-bone and the breast. Cut between the end +of the shoulder-blade and the back down toward the wing-joint, turn the +blade over toward the neck, and cut through the joint. + +This joint in the wing, collar-bone, and shoulder-blade is the hardest +to separate. Remove the breast from the back by cutting through the +cartilage connecting the ribs; this can be seen from the inside. The +breast should be left whole and the bone removed after stewing; but if +the chicken is to be fried you may remove the bone first. + +It is not necessary in boiling a chicken to divide it so minutely, for +the wings and legs can be disjointed, and the side-bones and breast +separated from the back more easily after cooking; but it is valuable +practice, and if one learns to do it neatly it will help in carving a +boiled fowl or roast turkey. + +In arranging a fricasseed chicken on the platter, put the neck and ribs +at the left end of the dish and the backbone at the right end. Put the +breast over the ribs, arrange the wings on each side of the breast, the +second joints next to the side-bones, and cross the ends of the +drumsticks over the tail. + + +BOILED FOWL OR TURKEY. + +Fowls or turkeys for boiling should be trussed with the ends of the legs +drawn into the body through a slit in the skin, and kept in place with a +small skewer. Turn the tip of the wing over on the back. Cut off the +neck, not the skin, close to the body, and after putting in the +stuffing, fasten the skin of the neck to the back. Put strips of cloth +round it, or pin it in a cloth, to keep it white and preserve the shape. + +In carving, place it on the platter with the head at the left. Put the +fork in firmly across the breast-bone. With the point of the knife cut +through the skin near the tail, and lift the legs out from the inside. +Then cut through the skin between the legs and body, bend the leg over, +and cut across through the joint. Cut from the top of the shoulder down +toward the body until the wing-joint is exposed, then cut through this, +separating the wing from the body. Remove the leg and wing from the +other side. Shave off a thin slice on the end of the breast toward each +wing-joint, slip the knife under at the top of the breast-bone, and turn +back the wish-bone. + +Capons and large fowls may be sliced thinly across the breast in the +same manner as a roast turkey. But if the fowl be small, draw the knife +along the edge of the breast-bone on each side, and lay the meat away +from the bone; the fillets will separate easily. Then divide the meat +across the grain. Separate the collar-bone from the breast. Slip the +knife under the shoulder-blade, turn it over, and separate at the joint. +Cut through the cartilage connecting the ribs; this will separate the +breast from the back. Now remove the fork from the breast, turn the back +over, place the knife midway, and with the fork lift up the tail end, +separating the back from the body. Place the fork in the middle of the +backbone, cut close to the backbone from one end to the other on each +side, freeing the side-bones. + +The wing and breast of a boiled fowl are the favorite portions. It is +important that the fowl be cooked just right. If underdone, the joints +will not separate readily; and if overdone they will fall apart so +quickly that carving is impossible. Unless the knife be very sharp, and +the work done carefully, the skin of the breast will come off with the +leg or wing. + + +BROILED CHICKEN. + +Split the chicken down the back and remove the backbone. If the chicken +be very young and tender--and only such are suitable for +broiling--remove the breast-bone before cooking, or cut the bone through +the middle, lengthwise and crosswise from the inside, without cutting +into the meat. In serving, divide through the breast from the neck down, +and serve half to each person; or if a smaller portion be desired, +divide each half crosswise through the breast, leaving the wing on one +part and the leg on the other. + +If the chicken be large, break the joints of the legs, thighs, and +wings, without breaking through the skin; cut the tendons on the thighs +from the inside, cut the membrane on the inside of the collar-bone and +wing-joint, and remove the breast-bone. This may all be done before +cooking, and will not injure the appearance of the outside. + +In serving, separate the legs and wings at the joints, then separate the +breast from the lower part, and divide the breast lengthwise and +crosswise. + +Carving-scissors are convenient for cutting any kind of broiled game or +poultry. + + +ROAST TURKEY. + +Turkeys should be carefully trussed. The wings and thighs should be +brought close to the body and kept in position by skewers. The ends of +the drumsticks may be drawn into the body or crossed over the tail and +tied firmly. + +After cooking, free the ends of the drumsticks from the body and trim +them with a paper ruffle. This will enable the carver to touch them if +necessary without soiling his hands. Place the turkey on the platter +with the head at the left. Unless the platter be very large, provide an +extra dish, also a fork for serving. + +Insert the carving-fork across the middle of the breast-bone. Cut +through the skin between the breast and the thigh. Bend the leg over, +and cut off close to the body and through the joint. Cut through the top +of the shoulder down through the wing-joint. Shave off the breast in +thin slices, slanting from the front of the breast-bone down toward the +wing-joint. + +If the family be small and the turkey is to be served for a second +dinner, carve only from the side nearest you. Tip the bird over +slightly, and with the point of the knife remove the oyster and the +small dark portion found on the side-bone. Then remove the fork from the +breast and divide the leg and wing. Cut through the skin between the +body and breast, and with a spoon remove a portion of the stuffing. +Serve light or dark meat and stuffing, as preferred. If carved in this +way, the turkey will be left with one half entire, and if placed on a +clean platter with the cut side nearest the carver, and garnished with +parsley, will present nearly as fine an appearance, to all but the +carver, as when first served. + +When there are many to be served, take off the leg and wing from each +side and slice the whole of the breast before removing the fork; then +divide as required. + +It is not often necessary to cut up the whole body of the turkey; but +where every scrap of the meat will be needed, or you wish to exercise +your skill, proceed to carve in this manner. + +Put the fork in firmly across the middle of the breast-bone. Cut through +the skin between the leg and body. Bend the leg over and cut off at the +joint. If the turkey be very tender or overcooked, the side-bone will +separate from the back and come away with the second joint, making it +more difficult to separate the thigh from the side-bone. Cut through the +top of the shoulder and separate the wing at the joint. Cut off the leg +and wing from the other side. Carve the breast on each side, in thin +slices, slanting slightly toward the wing. Be careful to take a portion +of crisp outside with each slice. Shave off the crisp skin near the +neck, in order to reach the stuffing. Insert the point of the knife at +the front of the breast-bone, turn back the wish-bone and separate it. +Cut through the cartilage on each side, separating the collar-bones from +the breast. Tip the body slightly over and slip the knife under the end +of the shoulder-blade; turn it over toward the wing. Repeat this process +on the opposite side. Cut through the cartilage which divides the ribs, +separating the breast-bone from the back. Lay the breast one side and +remove the fork from it. Take the stuffing from the back. Turn the back +over, place the knife midway just below the ribs, and with the fork lift +up the tail end, separating the back from the body. Place the fork in +the middle of the backbone, and cut close to the backbone from one end +to the other, on each side, freeing the side-bone. Then divide the legs +and wings at the joints. The joint in the leg is not quite in the middle +of the bend, but a trifle nearer the thigh. It requires some practice to +strike these joints in the right spot. Cut off the meat from each side +of the bone in the second joint and leg, as these when large are more +than one person requires, and it is inconvenient to have so large bones +on one’s plate. + +It is easier to finish the carving before beginning to serve. An expert +carver will have the whole bird disjointed and literally in pieces with +a very few strokes of the knife. + + +ROAST GOOSE. + +A green goose neatly trussed and “done to a turn” looks very tempting on +the platter; but there is so little meat in proportion to the size of +the bird that unless it be skilfully carved only a small number can be +served. The breast of a goose is broader and flatter than that of a +turkey. It should be carved in a different manner, although many writers +give the same directions for carving both. + +Place it on the platter with the head at the left. Insert the fork +firmly across the ridge of the breast-bone. Begin at the wing and cut +down through the meat to the bone, the whole length of the breast. Cut +down in the same way in parallel slices, as thin as can be cut, until +you come to the ridge of the breast-bone. Slip the knife under the meat +at the end of the breast, and remove the slices from the bone. Cut in +the same manner on the other side of the breast. Cut through the skin +below the breast, insert a spoon and help to the stuffing. If more be +required, cut the wing off at the joint. Then tip the body over slightly +and cut off the leg. This thigh-joint is tougher, and requires more +skill in separating, than the second joint of a turkey. It lies nearer +the backbone. But practice and familiarity with its location will enable +one to strike it accurately. The wish-bone, shoulder-blade, and +collar-bone may be removed according to the directions given for carving +roast turkey. Some prefer to remove the wing and leg before slicing the +breast. + + +ROAST DUCK. + +Place it in the same position and carve in the same way as a goose. + +Begin at the wing, and cut down to the bone in long thin slices, +parallel with the breast-bone; then remove them from the bone. The +breast is the favorite portion; but the “wing of a flyer and the leg of +a swimmer” are esteemed by epicures. + +The stuffing is not often desired, but if so it may be found by cutting +across below the end of the breast. + +Geese and ducks are seldom entirely cut up at the table, as there is +very little meat on the back. But often from a seemingly bare carcass +enough may be obtained to make a savory entrée. + + +PIGEONS. + +These, if small, are served whole. If large, cut through the middle from +the neck to the end of the breast and down through the backbone. The +bones are thin, and may easily be divided with a sharp knife. When +smaller portions are required, cut from the shoulder down below the leg, +separating the wing and leg from the body. + + +PARTRIDGES. + +Cut through above the joint of the wing, down below the leg, and remove +the wing and leg in one portion. Cut under the breast from the lower end +through the ribs to the neck and remove the breast entire. Then divide +it through the middle, and, if very plump, divide again. When very small +they may be divided through the breast and back into two equal parts. + + +LARDED GROUSE. + +Turn the legs over and free them from the body. Cut slices down to the +bone the entire length of the breast; then slip the knife under and +remove the slices. Cut off the wing and leg, and separate the backbone +from the body. There are some morsels on the back which are considered +choice by those who like the peculiar flavor of this game. As this is a +dry meat, help generously to the bread sauce which should always +accompany it. + +Where this is the principal dish, or where a larger portion is required, +divide it through the breast, as directed for small pigeons. + +_Woodcock_, _Snipe_, and other _Small Birds_ are usually served +whole. But if only a portion be desired, divide them through the breast. + + +RABBIT. + +A rabbit should be trussed, with the forelegs turned toward the back, +and the hind legs forward. Place it on the platter with the back up and +head at the left. Remove the shoulders by cutting round between them and +the body, carrying the knife up nearly to the backbone. Turn them back +and cut through the joint. Remove the hind legs in the same manner. Then +place the fork in the middle of the back and cut several slices from +each side of the loin parallel with the backbone. The loin is the +choicest part. + + +SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS. + +These are not divided, one being served to each person. + + +FISH. + +A broad silver knife should be used in serving fish. Serve as little of +the bone as possible, and be careful not to break the flakes. + +_Halibut or Salmon_. A middle cut, or thick piece, of halibut or salmon +should be placed on the platter with the skin surface up and the back +toward the farther side of the dish. Carve in thick slices down to the +bone, slip the knife under and remove them. Then remove the bone, and +serve the lower portion in the same manner. + +A thin slice of halibut should be laid on the platter with the flesh +side up. Cut next to the bone on each side, divide the fish as required, +and leave the bone on the platter. + +_Mackerel, White-fish_, etc. These and other thin fish for broiling +should be split down the back before cooking. In serving, divide through +the middle lengthwise, and then divide each half into such portions as +may be desired. Be careful not to break or crumble them. + +_Smelts, Perch_, and other small pan-fish are served whole. They should +be arranged on the dish with heads and tails alternating, or in a circle +round a silver cup placed in the centre of the platter and holding the +sauce. Or, place two or three on a silver skewer, and serve a skewerful +to each person. + +Small slices and rolled fillets of fish are not divided. + + +BAKED FISH. + +_Cod, Haddock, Cusk, Blue-fish, Shad, Small Salmon, and Bass_. +These when served whole may be carved in a more satisfactory manner if +before cooking they are prepared according to the following directions: + +Stuff them and place them upright in the pan instead of on one side. +Fish that are broad and short like shad may be kept in place by propping +with stale bread or pared potatoes; but others that are narrow in +proportion to the length may be skewered or tied into the shape of the +letter S. + +Thread a trussing needle with strong twine, run it through the head and +fasten it there; then bend the head round and draw the needle through +the middle of the body. Bend the tail in the opposite direction, run the +needle through near the tail, draw the string tightly and fasten it. +Gash the skin two inches apart on each side. Fish thus prepared will +retain its shape until served. + +Place it on the platter with the head at the left and the outward curve +on the farther side of the dish. Make an incision along each side of the +backbone the entire length of the fish. Then cut through the gashes on +the side nearest you and lay each portion away from the bone. Then +remove the fish on the farther side of the bone. Raise the bone to +reach the stuffing, and serve a little of the fish, stuffing, and sauce +to each person. The skeleton should be left entire on the platter. + +If the fish has been baked in the usual way and placed on the platter on +its side, cut across through to the backbone, but not through it, and +serve, apportioning as may be desired. Slip the knife under and remove +the portion from the bone. When the fish is all removed from the top, +remove the backbone, and then divide the lower portion. + + +SCALLOPED DISHES, MEAT PIES, ENTRÉES, ETC. + +Meats and fish which have the sauce on the same dish require special +care in serving, that they may present a neat rather than a sloppy +appearance on the plate. A drop of gravy on the edge of the plate will +offend a fastidious taste. + +_Scalloped Dishes_, or anything with a crust of crumbs, should be served +with a spoon. + +_Meat Pies_, with a pastry crust, require a broad knife and spoon. Put +the portion on the plate neatly, with the crust or browned side up. + +_Poached Eggs, Quails, and other Meats on Toast._ A broad knife should +be used in helping to these dishes. Take up the toast carefully, and lay +it on the plate without displacing the egg or bird. + + +SALADS. + +The most tasteful way of arranging meat-salads or fish-salads is with +whole, fresh, lettuce-leaves. Put two or more leaves together on the +platter, and in the nest or dish thus made lay a spoonful of the salad, +with the Mayonnaise on the top. In serving, slip the spoon or broad +knife under the leaves and keep them in place with the fork. Put the +salad on the plate carefully, in the same position, not tipped over. Or +you may have a border of fresh lettuce-leaves in the salad-dish. With +the fork lay one or two leaves on the plate, and then put a spoonful of +salad on the leaves. In this way each person has the Mayonnaise on the +top; the lettuce is underneath and fresh and crisp, instead of wilted, +as it would be if all of it were mixed with the salad. + + +VEGETABLES. + +In serving vegetables, take up a neat, rounding spoonful. Lay them on +the bottom of the plate, not on the rim or edge. Where there are several +kinds, do not let them touch each other on the plate. + +Serve, on separate dishes, _fritters_ with a sweet sauce, _peas_, +_tomatoes_, or any vegetable with much liquid. + +_Asparagus on Toast_ is a dish that one often sees served very +awkwardly. Use a square or rectangular platter rather than one narrow at +the ends. + +The bread for the toast should be cut long and narrow, rather than +square, and should be laid, not lengthwise, but across the platter. Lay +the asparagus in the same direction, the tips all at the farther side. +Put the knife, which should be broad and long, under the toast, and keep +the asparagus in place with the fork. You will find it much easier to +serve than when arranged in the usual way. + +_Macaroni_ as often prepared is another dish which it is not easy to +serve neatly. Always break or cut it into pieces less than two inches +long, before cooking, or before it is sent to the table. + +In serving _sweet corn_ on the cob, provide finger-bowls, or a small +doily to use in holding the ear of corn. + + +SOUPS. + +One ladleful of soup is sufficient for each plate. It is quite an art to +take up a ladleful and pour it into the soup-plate without dropping any +on the edge of the tureen or plate, and it requires a steady hand to +pass the plate without slopping the soup up on the rim. Dip the ladle +into the soup, take it up, and when the drop has fallen from the bottom +of it, lift it over quickly but empty it slowly. + +Croûtons and crackers lose their crispness if put into the tureen with +the soup, and should therefore be passed separately. + + +TEA AND COFFEE. + +Much has been written on the importance of serving neatly the various +drinks for an invalid. But careful service is equally essential at the +daily home table. It is mistaken generosity to fill the cup so full that +when sugar and cream are added, the liquid will spill over into the +saucer. One should never be compelled to clean the bottom of the cup on +the edge of the saucer, or on the napkin, to keep the liquid from +dripping on the cloth. + +In serving tea and coffee, ascertain the tastes of those at the table as +to sugar and cream. Put the cream and sugar in the cup, and an extra +block of sugar in the saucer; pour in the liquid until the cup is three +fourths full. Where there are no servants to wait on the table, this way +makes less confusion than to pass the sugar and cream to each person. + +Always provide a pitcher of boiling hot water and a slop-bowl. In cold +weather, pour hot water into the cups to warm them; then turn it into +the bowl. In serving a second time, rinse the inside of the cup with hot +water before filling. + + +PIES. + +It was formerly considered necessary to divide a pie with mathematical +exactness into quarters or sixths. A better way is to cut out one piece +of the usual size and offer it, and then if less be desired, cut off +such portions as may be needed. + +In serving a pie, always use a fork with the knife. + +Pies with no undercrust are more easily served with a broad knife or a +triangular knife made expressly for pies. For serving berry and juicy +fruit pies, a spoon also may be needed. Where two or three kinds are +served, help to very small portions of each, even if it be at a +Thanksgiving dinner. + +It is presuming on the capacity of the common-sized plate, and it is an +insult to the human stomach, to offer any one three sixths of a pie +after a dinner of the usual courses. + + +PUDDINGS. + +Hot puddings of a soft consistency should be served with a spoon; +sometimes a fork also is needed. With the edge of the spoon cut through +the brown crust in a semicircle, slip the spoon under, and take up a +spoonful; slip it off on the plate, leaving it right side up. + +Take special case to serve temptingly anything with a meringue. + + +MOULDS OF PUDDING, CREAMS, CHARLOTTE RUSSE, ICE-CREAM, ETC. + +Anything stiff enough to be moulded should be cut in slices from three +fourths of an inch to an inch thick; the wider slices in oval-shaped +moulds may be divided through the middle. A broad silver knife with a +raised edge is very convenient to use in serving Bavarian Cream, +Ice-Creams, and Charlottes. + + +FRUIT AND NUTS. + +A pair of grape scissors should be laid on the fruit-dish to use in +dividing large bunches of grapes or raisins; but a nut-cracker is too +suggestive of hotel life to be acceptable on the home table. Crack the +nuts before they are sent to the table. Salt should be served with the +nuts. + +Pass oranges, apples, pears, peaches, and bananas in the fruit-dish, to +allow each person the opportunity of choice. + +_Watermelon_. Before serving, cut a slice from each end. Make incisions +through the middle in the form of the letter V, separate the parts, and +place each in an upright position. Cut through the divisions, and serve +one section to each person. + +Cantaloupes, if small, are sometimes served cut in halves. If large, +divide from end to end in nature’s lines of depression. + + +THE THICKNESS OF SLICES. + +By “very thin slices of meat” we mean slices less than an eighth of an +inch thick. + +“Thin slices” are from one eighth of an inch to three sixteenths of an +inch in thickness. + +Slices of “medium thickness” are one quarter of an inch. + +Bread for dinner should be cut in slices one inch and a half thick, and +each slice should be divided across into three or four long pieces, +according to the width of the slice. + +For tea, cut slices three eighths of an inch thick, and for toast, one +quarter of an inch. + +Thick loaves of cake should be cut in slices from three fourths of an +inch to an inch thick, and divided once. Cut loaves of medium thickness +in pieces as broad as the cake is thick, and divide them once. Thin +sheets of cake should be cut in rectangular pieces twice as broad as the +cake is thick. Then divide once, or even twice, if the sheet be very +wide. Layer cakes baked in round pans are usually divided into +triangular pieces; but they are less suggestive of baker’s Washington +pie, which is so offensively common, if the edges be trimmed in such a +way as to leave a square. Then cut this square into smaller squares or +rectangles. + + +UTENSILS FOR CARVING AND SERVING. + +In any first-class cutlery store you will find knives for each special +kind of carving. If your purse will permit the indulgence, it will be +convenient to have a breakfast-carver, a slicer, a jointer, a +game-carver, and a pair of game-scissors. But if you can afford to have +only one, you will find a medium-sized meat-carver the knife best +adapted to all varieties of carving. The blade should be about nine +inches long and one inch and a quarter wide, slightly curved, and +tapering to a point. + +The fork should have two slender curving tines about three eighths of an +inch apart and two and a half inches long, and should have a guard. + +A breakfast or steak carver is of the same general shape, but the handle +is smaller, and the blade is six or seven inches long. A slicer for +roasts has a wide, straight blade, twelve inches long, and rounded +instead of pointed at the end. This is especially convenient for carving +thin slices from any large roasts, or other varieties of solid meat. The +width of the blade helps to steady the meat, and its great length +enables one to cut with a single, long, smooth stroke through the entire +surface. With a knife having a short blade a sort of sawing motion would +be made, and the slice would be jagged. As there are no joints to +separate, a point on the blade is unnecessary. + +A jointer is another form of carver, useful where the joints are so +large or so difficult to separate that considerable strength is +required. The handle has a crook or guard on the end to enable the +carver to grasp it more securely and use all the strength necessary. + +A game-carver has a small, narrow, pointed blade; but the shape and +length of the handle is the distinguishing feature. The handle should be +long enough to reach from the tip of the forefinger to an inch beyond +the back side of the hand, so that the edge of the hand about an inch +above the wrist rests against the handle of the carver. In dividing a +difficult joint, the manipulation should be made, not by turning the +hand, but by turning the knife with the fingers. In this way the +position of the point of the blade can be more easily changed as the +joint may require. The handle of the carving-knife supports the hand of +the carver. + +Game-scissors have handles like scissors; the two short blades are quite +deeply curved, something like the blade of a pruning-knife, making the +cutting-power greater. This enables the person using them to cut through +quite large bones in tough joints which would otherwise be quite +difficult to separate. + +Another form of jointer has two blades, one shorter than the other, and +a round handle divided the entire length, with a spring in the end next +the blade. When the handle is closed, the blades are together and the +outer edge of the longer blade is used like a knife for cutting the +meat. By opening the handle the curving edges of the blades are used +like scissors for cutting the bones. + +There are various styles of steels or knife-sharpeners, but the one now +in my possession is the best I have ever seen. + +It is a four-sided bar of steel, about three eighths of an inch wide and +thick, and eight inches long, having the four sides deeply grooved, thus +making the edges very prominent. These edges are so sharp that but +little pressure of the knife on the steel is required. The handle has a +large guard to protect the left hand from the edge of the blade. + +But few people know how to use a steel properly. It is difficult to +describe the process,--so easy to a natural mechanic and so awkward to +others,--or to instruct one in the knack of it, by mere description. +Hold the steel firmly in the left hand. Let the edge of the knife near +the handle rest on the steel, the back of the knife raised slightly at +an angle of about 30°. Draw the knife along lightly but steadily, always +at the same angle, the entire length of the blade. Then pass the knife +under the steel and draw the other surface along the opposite edge of +the steel, from the handle to the point, at the same angle. Repeat these +alternate motions the entire length of the blade, not on the point +merely, until you have an edge. + +Some persons prefer to turn the knife over, drawing it first from the +left hand and then toward it, sharpening each surface alternately on the +same edge of the steel. This is more difficult to do, as you cannot so +surely keep the blade at the same angle,--and this is the most important +point. If held at any other than the proper angle, either no edge is +made, or it is taken off as soon as obtained. + +It is bewildering, if one has any intention of buying, to examine the +assortment of spoons, knives, forks, etc., displayed at the +silversmith’s. + +There are ladles for soups, sauces, gravy, and cream; shovels for sugar +and salt, and scoops for cheese; tongs for sugar, pickles, olives, and +asparagus; spoons for sugar, jelly, fruit, sauces, salads, vegetables, +and macaroni; slicers for ice-cream, cake, and jelly; knives for fish, +pie, cake, and fruit; forks for fish, oysters, pickles, olives, salad, +and asparagus; scissors for grapes and raisins; crackers and picks for +nuts; and rests for the carving knife and fork. Some of these are really +useful; some as little so as many of the hundred and one novelties +designed particularly for wedding gifts. But in neat and careful serving +it is essential to have a soup-ladle, a gravy or sauce ladle, a pair of +tongs or shells for block sugar, a slender-tined silver fork for +pickles, a plentiful supply of large and medium-sized spoons, a +carving-rest, a crumb-scraper, and at least one broad silver knife and +fork, which if occasion requires may do duty at several courses. + + +LAST BUT NOT LEAST. + +In offering a second portion of anything do not remind one that he has +already been helped. + +“Can’t I give you another piece of meat or pie?” “Won’t you have some +more tea or pudding?” Expressions like these are frequently heard. + +It is in far better taste to say, “Will you have some hot coffee?” “May +I give you some of the salad?” “Let me help you to this choice portion.” + +We trust none of our readers will regard this suggestion as trivial. +For, concerning kindness, we know that perfection is no trifle. It is +the essence of that second commandment which we are divinely told is +like “the first of all the commandments;” and it cannot be attained +without assiduous attention to all the minor words and the common acts +of life. + +“_Among all the Cook-Books this will certainly take its place as one of +the very best_.”--THE CHRISTIAN UNION + + + * * * * * + + +MRS. LINCOLN’S + +BOSTON COOK-BOOK. + +WHAT TO DO AND WHAT NOT TO DO IN COOKING. + +BY MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN, + +FIRST PRINCIPAL OF THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL + +NEW REVISED EDITION, including 250 additional recipes. + +_With_ 50 _Illustrations_. 12_mo_. _Cloth_. +600 _pages_. _Price_ $2.00. + + * * * * * + +A SELECTION FROM SOME OF THE MANY NOTICES BY THE PRESS. + +“Mrs. Lincoln, nothing daunted by the legion of cook-books already in +existence, thinks there is room for one more. Her handsome and +serviceable-looking volume seems to contain everything essential to a +complete understanding of the culinary art. The Introduction of +thirty-five pages discusses such subjects as cooking in general, fire, +fuel, management of a stove, the various processes of boiling, stewing, +baking, frying, roasting, and broiling, with full explanation of the +chemical theory underlying each and distinguishing them; also hints on +measuring and mixing, with tables of weights, measures, and proportions; +of time in cooking various articles, and of average cost of material. +One who can learn nothing from this very instructive Introduction must +be well-informed indeed. Following this comes an elaborate and +exhaustive chapter on bread-making in all its steps and phases. To this +important topic some seventy pages are devoted. And so on through the +whole range of viands. Exactness, plainness, thoroughness, seem to +characterize all the author’s teachings. No point is neglected, and +directions are given for both necessary and luxurious dishes. There are +chapters on cooking for invalids, the dining-room, care of kitchen +utensils, etc. There is also a valuable outline of study for teachers +taking up the chemical properties of food, and the physiological +functions of digestion, absorption, nutrition, etc. Add the +miscellaneous questions for examination, the topics and illustrations +for lectures on cookery, list of utensils needed in a cooking-school, an +explanation of foreign terms used in cookery, a classified and an +alphabetical index,--and you have what must be considered as complete a +work of its kind as has yet appeared.”--_Mirror, Springfield, Ill_. + +“In answer to the question, ‘What does cookery mean?’ Mr. Ruskin says: +‘It means the knowledge of Circe and Medea, and of Calypso and of Helen, +and of Rebekah and of all the Queens of Sheba. It means knowledge of all +fruits and balms and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in +fields and groves, and savory to meals; it means carefulness and +inventiveness, and readiness of appliances; it means the economy of your +great-grandmothers and the science of modern chemistry; it means much +tasting and no wasting; it means English thoroughness, and French art, +and American hospitality.’ It is not extravagant to say that as far as +these mythological, biblical, and practical requirements can be met by +one weak woman, they are met by Mrs. Lincoln. And to the varied and +extensive range of knowledge she adds an acquaintance with Milton and +with Confucius, as shown by the apt quotations on her titlepage. The +book is intended to satisfy the needs and wants of the experienced +housekeeper, the tyro, and of the teacher in a cooking-school. In its +receipts, in its tables of time and proportion, in its clear and minute +directions about every detail of kitchen and dining-room, it has left +unanswered few questions which may suggest themselves to the most or the +least intelligent.”--_The Nation_. + +“Mrs. Lincoln’s ‘Boston Cook-Book’ is no mere amateur compilation, much +less an _omnium gatherum_ of receipts. Its title does scant justice to +it, for it is not so much a cook-book as a dietetic and culinary +cyclopædia. Mrs. Lincoln is a lady of culture and practical tastes, who +has made the fine art of _cuisine_ the subject of professional study and +teaching. In this book she has shown her literary skill and +intelligence, as well as her expertness as a practical cook and teacher +of cookery. It is full of interest and instruction for any one, though +one should never handle a skillet or know the feeling of dough. Nothing +in the way of explanation is left unsaid. And for a young housekeeper, +it is a complete outfit for the culinary department of her duties and +domain. There are many excellent side-hints as to the nature, history, +and hygiene of food, which are not often found in such books; and the +Indexes are of the completest and most useful kind. We find ourselves +quite enthusiastic over the work, and feel like saying to the +accomplished authoress, ‘Many daughters have done virtuously, but thou +excellest them all.’”--_Rev. Dr. Zabriskie, in Christian Intelligencer_. + +“Among all the cook-books, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln’s ‘Boston Cook-Book’ will +certainly take its place as one of the very best. It is published and +arranged in a very convenient and attractive form, and the style in +which it is written has a certain literary quality which will tempt +those who are not interested in recipes and cooking to peruse its pages. +The recipes are practical, and give just those facts which are generally +omitted from books of this sort, to the discouragement of the +housekeeper, and frequently to the lamentable disaster and failure of +her plans. Mrs. Lincoln has laid a large number of people under +obligation, and puts into her book a large amount of general experience +in the difficult and delicate art of cooking. The book is admirably +arranged, and is supplied with the most perfect indexes we have ever +seen in any work of the kind”--_The Christian Union_. + +“Mrs. Lincoln has written a cook-book; really written one, not made +merely a compilation of receipts,--that sort of mechanical work any one +can do who has patience enough to search for the rules, and system +enough to arrange them. Mrs. Lincoln’s book is written out of the +experience of life, both as a housekeeper and a teacher. Her long +experience as principal of the Boston Cooking-School has enabled her to +find out just what it is that people most want and need to know. I have +no hesitation in recommending Mrs. Lincoln’s as the best cook-book, in +all respects, of any I have seen. It is exactly fitted for use as a +family authority, in that it is the work, not of a theorizer, but of a +woman who knows what she is talking about. It is the very common-sense +of the science of cookery.”--_Extracts from Sallie Joy White’s letters +in Philadelphia and Portland papers_. + +“Mrs. Lincoln’s ‘Boston Cook-Book’ is a characteristically American, not +to say Yankee, production. Boston productions are nothing if not +profound, and even this cookery manual must begin with a definition, a +pinch of philology, and the culinary chemistry of heat, cold, water, +air, and drying.... But a touch of the blue-stocking has never been +harmful to cookery. This book is as deft as it is fundamental. It is so +perfectly and generously up to everything culinary, that it cannot help +spilling over a little into sciences and philosophy. It is the trimmest, +best arranged, best illustrated, most intelligible, manual of cookery as +a high art, and as an economic art, that has appeared.”--_Independent_. + +“It is a pleasure to be able to give a man or a book unqualified praise. +We have no fear in saying that Mrs. Lincoln’s work is the best and most +practical cook-book of its kind that has ever appeared. It does not +emanate from the _chef_ of some queen’s or nobleman’s _cuisine_, but it +tells in the most simple and practical and exact way those little things +which women ought to know, but have generally to learn by sad experience. +It is a book which ought to be in every household.”--_Philadelphia Press_. + +“The ‘Boston Cook-Book’ has a special recommendation. The author, Mrs. +Lincoln, was early trained to a love for all household work. That +precious experience is a thing for which a cooking-school is no manner +of substitute, while it is just the thing for professional training to +build upon, widen, and correct. Mrs. Lincoln’s book is practical, and +though there is much of theory, it gives proof of being based less upon +theory and much upon experiment. The book is handsomely gotten up, and +will ere long attest its usefulness in better food better prepared, and +therefore better digested, in many homes.”--_Leader_. + +“It is the embodiment of the actual experience and observation of a +woman who has learned and employed superior domestic methods. It is the +outcome of Mrs. Lincoln’s conscientious and successful labors for the +development of practical cooking. It is to be recommended for its +usefulness in point of receipts of moderate cost and quantity, in its +variety, its comprehensiveness, and for the excellence of its +typographical form.”--_Boston Transcript_. + +“The instruction given by Mrs. Lincoln at the Boston Cooking-School is +so widely and favorably known for its thoroughness and attention to +scientific and economical principles, that a cook-book embodying these +ideas and principles will be considered a great gain to the housekeeping +department. In care and excellence, her book illustrates the modern +advance in home cooking.”--_Boston Journal_. + +“The book needs no other _raison d’être_ than its own excellence. Every +housekeeper in the land would be fortunate to have upon her shelf a copy +of Mrs. Lincoln’s work.”--_Boston Courier_. + +“Mrs. Lincoln’s book contains in one volume what most other cook-books +contain in three; and its directions are always terse and to the point. +It is a thoroughly practical book, and teaches us all how to live well +and wisely every day in the year.”--_The Beacon_. + +“The most valuable feature of Mrs. Lincoln’s Cook-Book is, without +doubt, the application of scientific knowledge to the culinary art. Mrs. +Lincoln has the gift of teaching, and its use in this connection is +worthy of the warmest commendation. She has made the necessary +explanations in a very lucid and succinct manner. To the thousands of +intelligent housekeepers who recognize the importance of the art of the +kitchen, this book will be a boon.”--_Eclectic_. + +“The book, although at first sight it seems no larger than other +cook-books, has over five hundred pages, and takes up the minutest +details of housekeeping. Having examined all the standard cook-books now +in the market, this seems superior to all. There is so much in this that +is not found in other cook-books, that it is equal to a small library in +itself.”--_Extracts from Anna Barrow’s letters in Oxford and Portland +papers_. + +“We have at last from Boston something better than the Emersonian +philosophy or the learning of Harvard,--something that will contribute +more to human health, and consequently to human happiness; and that is, +a good, practical cook-book, with illustrations.... We commend Mrs. +Lincoln’s volume heartily, and wish it might make a part of every bridal +outfit.”--_The Churchman_. + +“For plain, practical, and at the same time scientific treatment of a +difficult subject, commend us to Mrs. Lincoln’s ‘Boston Cook-Book.’ No +better book has appeared to keep pace with the wholesome advance of +culinary art, as practiced in the common-sense cooking-school.”--_Toledo_. + +“It combines whatever is best in those which have gone before, with +improvements and refinements peculiar to itself. It is so complete and +admirable in its various departments, that it seems to fill every +requirement. How soon it will be rivalled or superseded it is unsafe to +predict; but for the present we may commend it as in every respect +unsurpassed.”--_The Dial_. + +“The volume is a compound of information on every household matter; well +arranged, clearly written, and attractively made up. Of the many +valuable cook-books, not one better deserves a place, or is more likely +to secure and hold it.”--_Helen Campbell_. + +“The possession of your cook-book has made me quite beside myself. I +prize it highly, not only for personal reasons, but because of its real +worth. I feel so safe with it as a guide, and if I abide by its rules +and laws no harm can befall me.”--_Adeline Miller, a former pupil, +Atlanta, Georgia_. + +“One need only glance over the pages of Mrs Lincoln’s Cook-Book to +realize the fact of her aptness in scholarship.”--_Alta, San Francisco_. + +“Mrs. Lincoln brings not only the fruits of a long experience to the +preparation of her work, but a great amount of scientific research, so +that the book is really a mine of information in its way.”--_The Post, +Washington_. + +“It is one of the most interesting treatises on cooking and housework that +we have ever read. It contains much useful information to the general +reader, and is one we would recommend to every housekeeper.”--_Saratoga +Sentinel_. + + + * * * * * + + +Mrs. Lincoln’s Boston Cook-Book _is kept on sale by all booksellers +everywhere. If you cannot readily obtain it, enclose the amount, $2.00, +directly to_ MRS. D.A. LINCOLN, Boston, Mass., _or to the Publishers, +who will mail it, postpaid_. + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARVING AND SERVING *** + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the +United States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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A. Lincoln</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online +at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you +are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the +country where you are located before using this eBook. +</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Carving and Serving</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Mrs. D. A. Lincoln</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: March 15, 2005 [eBook #15363]<br /> +[Most recently updated: October 7, 2021]</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Jason Isbell and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team</div> +<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARVING AND SERVING ***</div> + +<div class="fig" style="width:65%;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" style="width:100%;" alt="[Illustration]" /> +</div> + +<h1>CARVING AND SERVING</h1> + +<h2 class="no-break">BY MRS. D.A. LINCOLN</h2> + +<h3>AUTHOR OF “THE BOSTON COOK BOOK”</h3> + +<h5>BOSTON<br/> + LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY<br/> + 1906</h5> + +<h5><i>Copyright, 1886</i>, BY MRS. D.A. LINCOLN.</h5> + +<h5>University Press:<br/> +JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE.</h5> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<table summary="" style=""> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap01">GENERAL DIRECTIONS</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap02">SPECIAL DIRECTIONS</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap03">TIP OF THE SIRLOIN, OR RIB ROAST</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap04">SIRLOIN ROAST</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap05">THE BACK OF THE RUMP</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap06">FILLET OF BEEF OR TENDERLOIN</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap07">ROUND OF BEEF, FILLET OF VEAL, OR FRICANDEAU OF VEAL</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap08">BEEFSTEAK</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap09">LEG OF MUTTON OR LAMB, OR KNUCKLE OF VEAL</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap10">LEG OF VENISON</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap11">SADDLE OF MUTTON</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap12">SADDLE OF VENISON</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap13">HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap14">LOIN OF MUTTON, LAMB, VEAL, PORK, OR VENISON</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap15">SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR VEAL</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap16">FOREQUARTER OF LAMB OR VEAL</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap17">NECK OF VEAL</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap18">BREAST OF VEAL</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap19">CALF’S HEAD</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap20">ROAST PIG</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap21">HAM</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap22">TONGUE</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap23">CORNED BEEF</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap24">CHARTREUSE, OR PRESSED MEAT</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap25">TO CUT UP A CHICKEN FOR A STEW OR FRICASSEE</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap26">BOILED FOWL OR TURKEY</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap27">BROILED CHICKEN</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap28">ROAST TURKEY</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap29">ROAST GOOSE</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap30">ROAST DUCK</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap31">PIGEONS</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap32">PARTRIDGES</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap33">LARDED GROUSE</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap34">RABBIT</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap35">SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap36">FISH</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap37">BAKED FISH</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap38">SCALLOPED DISHES, MEAT PIES, ENTRÉES, ETC.</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap39">SALADS</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap40">VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap41">SOUPS</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap42">TEA AND COFFEE</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap43">PIES</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap44">PUDDINGS</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap45">MOULDS OF PUDDING, CREAMS, CHARLOTTE RUSSE, ICE-CREAM, ETC.</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap46">FRUIT AND NUTS</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap47">THE THICKNESS OF SLICES</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap48">UTENSILS FOR CARVING AND SERVING</a></td> +</tr> + +<tr> +<td> <a href="#chap49">LAST BUT NOT LEAST</a></td> +</tr> + +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2>CARVING AND SERVING.</h2> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2><a name="chap01"></a>GENERAL DIRECTIONS.</h2> + +<p> +“Do you teach your pupils how to carve?” +</p> + +<p> +“Please give us a lecture on carving; my husband says he will come if +you will.” +</p> + +<p> +I have been so frequently addressed in this way that I have decided to +publish a manual on the Art of Carving. Instruction in this art cannot +be given at a lecture with any profit to my pupils or satisfaction to +myself. One cannot learn by simply seeing a person carve a few times. As +much as any other art, it requires study; and success is not attainable +without much practice. There are certain rules which should be +thoroughly understood; if followed faithfully in daily practice, they +will help more than mere observation. +</p> + +<p> +This manual is not offered as a guide for special occasions, company +dinners, etc., nor for those whose experience renders it unnecessary, or +whose means allow them to employ one skilled in the art. But it is +earnestly hoped that the suggestions here offered will aid those who +desire, at their own table in everyday home life, to acquire that ease +and perfection of manner which, however suddenly it may be confronted +with obstacles, will be equal to every occasion. +</p> + +<p> +Printed rules for carving are usually accompanied with cuts showing the +position of the joint or fowl on the platter, and having lines +indicating the method of cutting. But this will not be attempted in this +manual, as such illustrations seldom prove helpful; for the actual thing +before us bears faint resemblance to the pictures, which give us only +the surface, with no hint of what may be inside. +</p> + +<p> +It is comparatively a slight matter to carve a solid mass of lean meat. +It is the bones, tough gristle, and tendons, that interfere with the +easy progress of the knife. To expect any one to carve well without any +conception of the internal structure of what may be placed before him is +as absurd as to expect one to amputate a limb successfully who has no +knowledge of human anatomy. +</p> + +<p> +Some notion of the relative position of bones, joints, fat, tough and +tender muscles, is the first requisite to good carving. All agree that +skill in carving may be acquired by practice; and so it may. Any one can +divide a joint if he cut and hack at it long enough, and so learn after +a time just where to make the right cut. But a more satisfactory way is +to make a careful study before the material is cooked, and thus learn +the exact position of every joint, bone, and muscle. Become familiar +with a shoulder or a leg of mutton; locate the joints by moving the +bones in +the joints, or by cutting it into sections, some time when it +is to be used for a stew. Or remove the bone in the leg by scraping the +meat away at either end. Learn to distinguish the different cuts of +meat. The best way to learn about carving poultry and game is to cut +them up for a stew or fricassee, provided care be taken not to chop +them, but to disjoint them skilfully. +</p> + +<p> +Then, when you attempt to carve, do the best you can every time. Never +allow yourself to be careless about it, even should the only spectators +be your wife and children. But do not make your first effort in the art +at a company dinner. Every lady should learn the art. There is no reason +why she may not excel in it, as she has every opportunity to study the +joint or fowl before cooking. Strength is not required, so much as +neatness and care. A firm, steady hand, a cool, collected manner, and +confidence in one’s ability will help greatly. Children also should be +taught this accomplishment, and should be taught it as soon as they can +handle a knife safely. If parents would allow the children to share +their duties at the daily family table, and occasionally when company is +present, a graceful manner would soon be acquired. When called upon to +preside over their own homes there would less frequently be heard the +apology, “Father always carved at home, and I have had no practice.” The +only recollection that I now have of a dinner at a friend’s some years +ago is the easy and skilful way a young son of my hostess presided at +the head of the table, while the father occupied the place of guest at +the mother’s right hand. +</p> + +<p> +One must learn first of all to carve neatly, without scattering crumbs +or splashing gravy over the cloth or platter; also to cut straight, +uniform slices. This may seem an easy matter; but do we often see +pressed beef, tongue, or even bread cut as it should be? Be careful to +divide the material in such a manner that each person may be served +equally well. Have you never received all flank, or a hard dry wing, +while another guest had all tenderloin, or the second joint? After a +little experience you can easily distinguish between the choice portions +and the inferior. Lay each portion on the plate with the browned or best +side up. Keep it compact, not mussy; and serve a good portion of meat, +not a bone with hardly any meat on it. After all are served, the portion +on the platter should not be left jagged, rough, and sprawling, but +should look inviting enough to tempt one to desire a second portion. +</p> + +<p> +Care should be taken to carve in such a way as to get the best effect. A +nice joint is often made less inviting from having been cut with the +grain, while meat of rather poor quality is made more tender and +palatable if divided across the grain. Where the whole of the joint is +not required, learn to carve economically, that it may be left in good +shape for another dinner. +</p> + +<p> +After you have learned to do the simplest work neatly and gracefully, +much painstaking will be +necessary in acquiring the power to accomplish +with elegance the more difficult tasks. For to reach the highest degree +of excellence in the art, one must be able to carve the most difficult +joint with perfect skill and ease. +</p> + +<p> +But after all this study and a great amount of practice failure often +happens, and blame is laid upon the carver which really belongs to some +other person,—the butcher, the cook, the table-girl, or the guest. Not +all men who sell meat know or practice the best way of cutting up meat. +Much may be done by the butcher and by the cook to facilitate the work +of the carver. These helps will be noticed more particularly under the +head of special dishes. +</p> + +<p> +An essential aid to easy carving, and one often overlooked, is that the +platter be large enough to hold not merely the joint or fowl while +whole, but also the several portions as they are detached. +</p> + +<p> +The joint should be placed in the middle of the platter, in the position +indicated under special directions. There should be sufficient space on +either side for the portions of meat as they are carved; that is, space +on the bottom, none of the slices being allowed to hang over the edge of +the dish. If necessary, provide an extra dish. The persistency with +which some housekeepers cling to a small dish for fear the meat will +look lost on a larger one often makes successful carving impossible. +</p> + +<p> +The platter should be placed near the carver, that he may easily reach +any part of the joint. +</p> + +<p> +The cook should see that all skewers, strings, etc., be removed before +sending the meat or fish to the table. It is extremely awkward to find +one’s knife impeded by a bit of twine. +</p> + +<p> +The carver may stand or sit, as suits his convenience. Anything that is +done easily is generally done gracefully, but when one works at a +disadvantage awkwardness is always the result. +</p> + +<p> +A very important matter is the condition of the knife. It should have a +handle easy to grasp, a long, thin, sharp, pointed blade, and be of a +size adapted to the article to be carved and to the person using it. A +lady or a child will prefer a small knife. Be as particular to have the +knife sharp as to have it bright and clean; and always sharpen it before +announcing the dinner. It is very annoying for a person to be obliged to +wait and sharpen the knife, or to turn the meat round to get it into the +right position. Never allow a carving-knife to be used to cut bread, or +for any other than its legitimate purpose. +</p> + +<p> +The fork should be strong, with long tines, and should have a guard. +</p> + +<p> +Place the fork deep enough in the meat so that you can hold it firmly in +position. Hold the knife and fork in an easy, natural way. Many persons +grasp the fork as if it were a dagger, and stab it into the meat; but +such a display of force is unnecessary and clownish. The hand should be +over the handle of the fork, the palm down, and the forefinger extended. +</p> + +<p> +Do not appear to make hard work of carving. Avoid all scowling or +contortion of the mouth if a difficult spot be touched. Don’t let your +countenance betray the toughness of the joint or your own lack of skill. +Work slowly but skilfully, and thus avoid the danger of landing the +joint in your neighbor’s lap. +</p> + +<p> +Do not be guilty of the discourtesy of asking each guest, before you +begin to carve, to choose between roast lamb and warmed-over beef, or +between pie and pudding, or whatever you may have, and thus cause a +guest who may have chosen the lamb or the pie the discomfort of knowing +that it has been cut solely for her. Such economy may be excusable in +the privacy of one’s own family, but not in the presence of invited +guests. First divide or carve what you have to serve, and then offer the +choice to your guests. +</p> + +<p> +“To carve and serve decently and in good order” is indeed mainly the +duty of the host; but there is sometimes an unfortunate lack of skill on +the part of the hostess in her share of the serving. A certain pride is +permitted to her, and is expected of her, in serving neatly her tea, +coffee, and soup, in dividing appropriately her pies and puddings, and +even in cutting and arranging deftly the bread upon her board. +</p> + +<p> +A word to the guest, and then we will proceed to explicit directions. +</p> + +<p> +Never stare at the carver. Remember you are invited to dine, not to take +a lesson in carving. Appear perfectly unconscious of his efforts; a +glance now and then will give you sufficient insight into his method. +There often seems to be an irresistible fascination about carving which +silences all tongues and draws all eyes to the head of the table. The +most skilful carver will sometimes fail if conscious of being watched. +With a little tact the hostess can easily engage the attention of her +guests, that the carver may not be annoyed. +</p> + +<p> +Should your preference be asked, and you have any, name it at once, +provided there is also enough for others who may prefer the same kind. +Remember there are only two fillets, or side-bones, or second joints; if +you are the first to be served, do not test the skill of the carver by +preferring a portion difficult to obtain. +</p> + +<p> +Many of these cautions may seem uncalled for, but they have been +suggested by personal observation of their necessity. People of good +breeding would never err in any of these ways; but alas, not all people +are well bred, and innate selfishness often crops out in small matters. +</p> + +<p> +The following explicit directions have not been taken from books. They +were given to the writer a few years ago by one who was an adept in the +art, who had received her instruction from a skilful surgeon, and who at +her own table gave a practical demonstration of the fact that a lady can +not only “carve decently and in good order,” but with ease and elegance. +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2><a name="chap02"></a>SPECIAL DIRECTIONS.</h2> + +<h3><a name="chap03"></a>TIP OF THE SIRLOIN, OR RIB ROAST.</h3> + +<p> +It is easier to carve this joint by cutting across the ribs, parallel +with the backbone, but that is cutting with the grain; and meat, +especially beef, seems more tender if cut across the grain. +</p> + +<p> +Place it on the platter with the backbone at the right. If the backbones +be not removed before cooking, place the fork in the middle and cut +close to the backbone down to the ribs. Shave off the thick, gristly +cord near the backbone, as this, if left on, interferes with cutting +thin slices. Then cut, from the side nearest you, thin uniform slices +parallel with the ribs. Run the knife under and separate them from the +bone. Many prefer to remove the bone and skewer the meat into a roll +before cooking. It may then be laid, flesh down, on the dish, and carved +across the top horizontally in thin slices; or if you find it easier, +place it with the skin surface up, and carve down from the flesh side +nearest you. +</p> + +<p> +This style of serving is generally preferred, but there are advantages +in retaining the bone; for the thin end when rolled under is not cooked +to such a nice degree of crispness, and the slices are usually larger +than desired. Again, the ribs, by keeping the meat in position, secure +for it a clean cut, and not one broken and jagged, and the thin end may +be served or not, as you please. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap04"></a>SIRLOIN ROAST.</h3> + +<p> +The backbone or thickest end should be at the right end of the dish. +</p> + +<p> +Carve a sirloin roast by cutting several thin slices parallel with the +ribs. Then cut down across the ribs near the backbone, and also at the +flank end, and separate the slices. +</p> + +<p> +The slices should be as thin as possible and yet remain slices, not +shavings. Turn the meat over and cut out the tenderloin and slice it in +the same manner across the grain; or turn the meat over and remove the +tenderloin first. Many prefer to leave the tenderloin to be served cold. +Cut slices of the crisp fat on the flank in the same way, and serve to +those who wish it. This is a part which many dislike, but some persons +consider it very choice. Always offer it unless you know the tastes of +those whom you are serving. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap05"></a>THE BACK OF THE RUMP.</h3> + +<p> +A roast from the back of the rump, if cooked without removing the bone, +should be placed on the platter with the backbone on the farther side. +Cut first underneath to loosen the meat from the bone. Then, if the +family be large and all the meat is to be used, the slices may be cut +lengthwise; but should only a small quantity be needed, cut crosswise +and only from the small end. It is then in better shape for the second +day. +</p> + +<p> +It is more economical to serve the poorer parts the first day, as they +are never better than when hot and freshly cooked. Reserve the more +tender meat to be served cold. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap06"></a>FILLET OF BEEF OR TENDERLOIN.</h3> + +<p> +Before cooking, remove all the fat, and every fibre of the tough white +membrane. Press it into shape again and lard it, or cover it with its +own fat. If this fibre be not removed, the sharpest knife will fail to +cut through it. Place it on the platter with the larger end at the +right; or if two short fillets be used, place the thickest ends in the +middle. Carve from the thickest part, in thin, uniform slices. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap07"></a>ROUND OF BEEF, FILLET OF VEAL, OR FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.</h3> + +<p> +These are placed on the platter, flesh side up, and carved in horizontal +slices, care being taken to carve evenly, so that the portion remaining +may be in good shape. As the whole of the browned outside comes off with +the first slices, divide this into small pieces, to be served if desired +with the rare, juicy, inside slices. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap08"></a>BEEFSTEAK.</h3> + +<p> +It may seem needless to direct one how to carve a sirloin steak, but it +sometimes appears to require more skill than to carve poultry, as those +who have been so unfortunate as to receive only the flank can testify. +</p> + +<p> +I believe most strongly, as a matter of economy, in removing the bone, +and any tough membrane or gristle that will not be eaten, before cooking +the steak. If there be a large portion of the flank, cook that in some +other way. With a small, sharp knife cut close to the rib on each side, +round the backbone, and remove the tough white membrane on the edge of +the tenderloin. Leave the fat on the upper edge, and the kidney fat +also, or a part of it, if it be very thick. There need be no waste or +escape of juices if the cutting be done quickly, neatly, and just before +cooking. Press the tenderloin—that is, the small portion on the under +side of the bone—close to the upper part, that the shape may not be +changed. +</p> + +<p> +<a name="Page_19"></a> +In serving place it on the dish with the tenderloin next to the carver. +Cut in long narrow strips from the fat edge down through the tenderloin. +Give each person a bit of tenderloin, upper part, and fat. If the bone +be not removed before cooking, remove the tenderloin first by cutting +close to the bone, and divide it into narrow pieces; then remove the +meat from the upper side of the bone and cut in the same manner. A long, +narrow strip about as wide as the steak is thick is much more easily +managed on one’s plate than a square piece. Serve small portions, and +then, if more be desired, help again. +</p> + +<p> +In carving large rump steaks or round steaks, cut always across the +grain, in narrow strips. Carving-knives are always sharper than +table-knives, and should do the work of cutting the fibres of the meat; +then the short fibres may easily be separated by one’s own knife. There +is a choice in the several muscles of a large rump steak, and it is +quite an art to serve it equally. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap09"></a>LEG OF MUTTON OR LAMB, OR KNUCKLE OF VEAL.</h3> + +<p> +Before cooking, remove the rump-bones at the larger end. For a small +family it is more economical to remove all the bones and fill the cavity +with stuffing. Tie or skewer it into compact shape; there is then less +waste, as the meat that is not used at the first dinner does not become +dry and hard by keeping. +</p> + +<p> +In serving, the thickest part of the leg should be toward the back of +the platter. Put the fork in at the top, turn the leg toward you to +bring the thickest part up, and cut through to the bone. Cut several +slices of medium thickness, toward the thickest part, then slip the +knife under and cut them away from the bone. A choice bit of crisp fat +may be found on the larger end, and there is a sweet morsel near the +knuckle or lower joint. If more be required, slice from the under side +of the bone in the same manner. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap10"></a>LEG OF VENISON.</h3> + +<p> +This is carved in the same way as a leg of mutton,—through the thickest +part down to the bone. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap11"></a>SADDLE OF MUTTON.</h3> + +<p> +Remove the ends of the ribs and roll the flank under before cooking. +</p> + +<p> +Place it on the platter with the tail end at the left. Put the fork in +firmly near the centre, and carve down to the ribs in long slices, +parallel with the backbone, and the whole length. Slip the knife under +and separate the slices from the ribs; do the same on the other side of +the back. Divide the slices if very long. Cut the crisp fat from the +sides in slanting slices. Turn partly over and remove the choice bit of +tenderloin and kidney fat under the ribs. +</p> + +<p> +Carving a saddle of mutton in this way is really cutting with the grain +of the meat, but it is the method adopted by the best authorities. It is +only the choicest quality of mutton, and that which has been kept long +enough to be very tender, that is prepared for cooking in this way. The +fibres are not so tough as those of beef; there is no perceptible +difference in the tenderness of the meat when cut in this manner, and +there is an advantage in obtaining slices which are longer, and yet as +thin as those from cutting across the grain. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap12"></a>SADDLE OF VENISON.</h3> + +<p> +Carve the same as a saddle of mutton. Serve some of the dish gravy with +each portion. Venison and mutton soon become chilled, the fat +particularly, thus losing much of their delicacy. Send them to the table +very hot, on hot platters; carve quickly, and serve at once on warm +plates. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap13"></a>HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON.</h3> + +<p> +This is the leg and loin undivided, or, as more commonly called, the +hind quarter. +</p> + +<p> +The butcher should split the whirl-bone, disjoint the backbone, and split the +ribs in the flank. The rump-bone and aitch-bone may be removed before cooking. +Place it on the platter with the loin or backbone nearest the carver. Separate +the leg from the loin; this is a difficult joint to divide when the bones have +not been removed, but it can be done with practice. When the leg has been taken +off, carve that as directed on page <a href='#Page_19'>19</a>. Carve the loin +by first cutting off the flank and dividing it, then divide between each rib in +the loin, or cut long slices parallel with the backbone, in the same way as +directed for a saddle of mutton. Some English authorities recommend cutting +perpendicularly through the thickest part of the leg near the knuckle, and then +cutting across at right angles with this first cut, in long thin slices, the +entire length of the joint; the slices are then separated from the bone and +divided as desired. When carved in this way the loin and leg are not divided. +This is not so economical as the first method. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap14"></a>LOIN OF MUTTON, LAMB, VEAL, PORK, OR VENISON.</h3> + +<p> +These should always be divided at the joints in the backbone by the +butcher; then it is an easy matter to separate the ribs, serving one to +each person, with a portion of the kidney and fat if desired. But if the +butcher neglect to do this, and you have no cleaver with which to do it, +it is better to cut slices down to the ribs parallel with the backbone, +as directed in the saddle of mutton, than to suffer the annoyance of +hacking at the joints. +</p> + +<p> +Before cooking a loin of pork, gash through the fat between the ribs; +this will give more of the crisp fat, and will aid in separating the +ribs. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap15"></a>SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR VEAL.</h3> + +<p> +Place it on the platter with the thickest part up. From the thickest +part cut thin slices, slanting down to the knuckle; then make several +cuts across to the larger end, and remove these slices from the +shoulder-blade. Separate the blade at the shoulder-joint, and remove it. +Cut the meat under the blade in perpendicular slices. +</p> + +<p> +Any part of the forequarter of mutton is more tender and palatable, and +more easily carved, if before cooking it be boned and stuffed. Or it may +be boned, rolled, and corned. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap16"></a>FOREQUARTER OF LAMB OR VEAL.</h3> + +<p> +This is a difficult joint for a beginner, but after a little study and +practice one may manipulate it with dexterity. Some time when a lamb +stew or fricassee is to be prepared, study the joint carefully and +practice cutting it up, and thus become familiar with the position of +the shoulder-blade joint,—the only one difficult to reach. The backbone +should always be disjointed. The ribs should be divided across the +breast and at the junction of the breast-bone, and the butcher should +also remove the shoulder-blade and the bone in the leg. Unless the joint +be very young and tender, it is better to use the breast portion for a +stew or fricassee; but when nice and tender the breast may be roasted +with the other portions, as the choice gelatinous morsels near the +breast-bones are preferred by many. This joint consists of three +portions,—the shoulder or knuckle, the breast or brisket, and the ribs. +Put it on the platter with the backbone up. Put the fork in near the +knuckle. Cut through the flesh clear round the leg and well up on the +shoulder, but not too far on the breast. With the fork lift the leg away +from the shoulder, cutting in till you come to the joint, after +separating which, remove the leg to a separate dish, to be afterward +cut into thin slices through the thickest part. Cut across from left to +right where the ribs have been broken, separating the gristly breast +from the upper portion. Then remove the blade if it has not been done +before cooking. Divide each of these portions between the ribs, and +serve a piece of the rib, the breast, or a slice from the leg, as +preferred. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap17"></a>NECK OF VEAL.</h3> + +<p> +The vertebra should be disjointed, and the ribs cut on the inside +through the bone only, on the thin end. Place it on the platter with the +back up and cut across from left to right, where the ribs were divided, +separating the small ends of the ribs from the thicker upper portion; +then cut between each short rib. Carve from the back down in slanting +slices, then slip the knife under close to the ribs and remove the +slices. This gives a larger portion than the cutting of the slices +straight would give, and yet not so large as if each were helped to a +whole rib. Serve a short rib with each slice. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap18"></a>BREAST OF VEAL.</h3> + +<p> +Place it on the dish with the breast-bone or brisket nearest you. Cut +off the gristly brisket, then separate it into sections. Cut the upper +part parallel with the ribs, or between each rib if very small. Slice +the sweetbread, and serve a portion of brisket, rib, and sweetbread to +each person. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap19"></a>CALF’S HEAD.</h3> + +<p> +Calf’s head served whole is a favorite dish in England, but seldom seen +on American tables. For those who have this preference a few hints about +carving may be desirable. Place it on the platter with the face toward +the right. Cut from left to right, through the middle of the cheek down +to the bone, in several parallel slices of medium thickness; then +separate them from the bone. Cut down at the back of the throat and +slice the throat sweetbread. With the point of the knife cut out the +gelatinous portion near the eye, and serve to those who desire it. There +is a small portion of delicate lean meat to be found after removing the +jawbone. Some are fond of the palate, which lies under the head. The +tongue should be sliced, and a portion of this and of the brains offered +to each person. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap20"></a>ROAST PIG.</h3> + +<p> +This is sometimes partly divided before serving. Cut off the head and +divide it through the middle; then divide through the backbone. Place it +on the platter back to back, with half the head on each end of the dish. +</p> + +<p> +If the pig be very young, it is in better style to serve it whole. +Before cooking, truss the forelegs forward and the hind legs backward. +Place the pig on the platter with the head at the left. Cut off the +head, separating the neck-joint with the point of the knife, +then cut through the flesh on either side. Take off the shoulders by cutting in a +circle from under the foreleg round nearly to the backbone and down +again. Bend it forward and cut through the joint. Cut off the hams in +the same way. Then split the backbone the entire length and divide +between each rib. Cut slices from the thickest part of the hams and the +shoulders. The ribs are the choice portion, but those who like it at all +consider any part of it a delicacy. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap21"></a>HAM.</h3> + +<p> +If the ham is not to be served whole, the simplest and most economical +way is to begin near the smaller end and cut in very thin slices, on +each side of the bone. Divide the slices and arrange them neatly on the +dish, one lapping over another, with the fat edge outside. +</p> + +<p> +Where the whole ham is to appear on the table it should be trimmed +neatly, and the end of the bone covered with a paper ruffle. The +thickest part should be on the further side of the platter. Make an +incision through the thickest part, a little way from the smaller end. +Shave off in very thin slices, cutting toward the larger end and down to +the bone at every slice. The knife should be very sharp to make a clean +cut, and each slice should have a portion of the fat with the crisp +crust. To serve it hot a second day, fill the cavity with a bread +stuffing, cover it with buttered crumbs, and brown it in the oven. If it +is to be served cold, brown the crumbs first and then sprinkle them +over the stuffing. If this be done the edges will not dry and the +symmetry of the ham is preserved. Carve as before, toward the larger +end, and if more be needed, cut also from the other side of the bone. +</p> + +<p> +By filling the cavity again with stuffing, a ham may be served as a +whole one the third time and look as inviting as when first served. +Should there be two or three inches of the thickest end left for another +serving, saw off the bone, lay the meat flesh side up, with the fat on +the further side of the platter, and carve horizontally in thin slices. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap22"></a>TONGUE.</h3> + +<p> +The centre of the tongue is the choicest portion. Cut across in slices +as thin as a wafer. The tip of the tongue is more delicate when cut +lengthwise in thin slices, though this is not the usual practice. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap23"></a>CORNED BEEF.</h3> + +<p> +Corned beef should be put while hot into a pan or mould, in layers of +fat and lean, with the fibres running the long way of the pan. After +pressing it, place it on the platter and slice thinly from one end. This +gives uniform slices, cut across the grain, each one having a fair +proportion of fat and lean. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap24"></a>CHARTREUSE, OR PRESSED MEAT.</h3> + +<p> +Any moulds of meat, either plain or in jelly or rice, should be cut from +one end, or in the middle and toward either end, in uniform slices, the +thickness varying with the kind of meat. Be careful not to break them in +serving. If only a part of a slice be desired, divide it neatly. Help +also to the rice or jelly. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap25"></a>TO CUT UP A CHICKEN FOR A STEW OR FRICASSEE.</h3> + +<p> +Nothing is more unsightly and unappetizing than a portion of chicken +with the bones chopped at all sorts of angles, and with splinters of +bone in the meat. All bones will separate easily at the joint when the +cord or tendon and gristly portion connecting them have been cut. +</p> + +<p> +After the chicken has been singed and wiped, and the crop removed from +the end of the neck, place it in front of you with the breast up and the +neck at the left. With a small sharp knife make an incision in the thin +skin between the inside of the legs and the body. Cut through the skin +only, down toward the right side of the leg, and then on the left. Bend +the leg over toward you, and you will see where the flesh joins the body +and also where the joint is, for the bone will move in the joint. Cut +through the flesh close to the body, first on the right of the joint and +then on the left, and as you bend the leg over, cut the cord and +gristle in the joint, and this will free the leg from the body. Find the +joint in the leg and divide it neatly. Work the wing until you see where +the joint is, then cut through the flesh on the shoulder, bend the wing +up and cut down through the gristle and cord. Make a straight clean cut, +leaving no jagged edges. Divide the wing in the joint, and then remove +the leg and wing from the opposite side, and divide in the same way. +Make an incision in the skin near the vent, cut through the membrane +lying between the breast and the tail down to the backbone on each side, +remove the entrails, and break off the backbone just below the ribs. +Separate the side-bones from the back by cutting close to the backbone +from one end to the other on each side. This is a little difficult to +do; and in your first experiment it would be better not to divide it +until after boiling it, as it separates more easily after the connecting +gristle has been softened by cooking. Take off the neck close to the +back by cutting through the flesh and twisting or wringing it until the +bone is disjointed. +</p> + +<p> +Cut off the wish-bone in a slanting direction from the front of the +breast-bone down to the shoulder on each side. Cut through the cartilage +between the end of the collar-bone and the breast. Cut between the end +of the shoulder-blade and the back down toward the wing-joint, turn the +blade over toward the neck, and cut through the joint. +</p> + +<p> +This joint in the wing, collar-bone, and shoulder-blade is the hardest +to separate. Remove the breast from the back by cutting through the +cartilage connecting the ribs; this can be seen from the inside. The +breast should be left whole and the bone removed after stewing; but if +the chicken is to be fried you may remove the bone first. +</p> + +<p> +It is not necessary in boiling a chicken to divide it so minutely, for +the wings and legs can be disjointed, and the side-bones and breast +separated from the back more easily after cooking; but it is valuable +practice, and if one learns to do it neatly it will help in carving a +boiled fowl or roast turkey. +</p> + +<p> +In arranging a fricasseed chicken on the platter, put the neck and ribs +at the left end of the dish and the backbone at the right end. Put the +breast over the ribs, arrange the wings on each side of the breast, the +second joints next to the side-bones, and cross the ends of the +drumsticks over the tail. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap26"></a>BOILED FOWL OR TURKEY.</h3> + +<p> +Fowls or turkeys for boiling should be trussed with the ends of the legs +drawn into the body through a slit in the skin, and kept in place with a +small skewer. Turn the tip of the wing over on the back. Cut off the +neck, not the skin, close to the body, and after putting in the +stuffing, fasten the skin of the neck to the back. Put strips of cloth +round it, or pin it in a cloth, to keep it white and preserve the shape. +</p> + +<p> +In carving, place it on the platter with the head at the left. Put the +fork in firmly across the breast-bone. With the point of the knife cut +through the skin near the tail, and lift the legs out from the inside. +Then cut through the skin between the legs and body, bend the leg over, +and cut across through the joint. Cut from the top of the shoulder down +toward the body until the wing-joint is exposed, then cut through this, +separating the wing from the body. Remove the leg and wing from the +other side. Shave off a thin slice on the end of the breast toward each +wing-joint, slip the knife under at the top of the breast-bone, and turn +back the wish-bone. +</p> + +<p> +Capons and large fowls may be sliced thinly across the breast in the +same manner as a roast turkey. But if the fowl be small, draw the knife +along the edge of the breast-bone on each side, and lay the meat away +from the bone; the fillets will separate easily. Then divide the meat +across the grain. Separate the collar-bone from the breast. Slip the +knife under the shoulder-blade, turn it over, and separate at the joint. +Cut through the cartilage connecting the ribs; this will separate the +breast from the back. Now remove the fork from the breast, turn the back +over, place the knife midway, and with the fork lift up the tail end, +separating the back from the body. Place the fork in the middle of the +backbone, cut close to the backbone from one end to the other on each +side, freeing the side-bones. +</p> + +<p> +The wing and breast of a boiled fowl are the favorite portions. It is +important that the fowl be cooked just right. If underdone, the joints +will not separate readily; and if overdone they will fall apart so +quickly that carving is impossible. Unless the knife be very sharp, and +the work done carefully, the skin of the breast will come off with the +leg or wing. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap27"></a>BROILED CHICKEN.</h3> + +<p> +Split the chicken down the back and remove the backbone. If the chicken +be very young and tender—and only such are suitable for +broiling—remove the breast-bone before cooking, or cut the bone through +the middle, lengthwise and crosswise from the inside, without cutting +into the meat. In serving, divide through the breast from the neck down, +and serve half to each person; or if a smaller portion be desired, +divide each half crosswise through the breast, leaving the wing on one +part and the leg on the other. +</p> + +<p> +If the chicken be large, break the joints of the legs, thighs, and +wings, without breaking through the skin; cut the tendons on the thighs +from the inside, cut the membrane on the inside of the collar-bone and +wing-joint, and remove the breast-bone. This may all be done before +cooking, and will not injure the appearance of the outside. +</p> + +<p> +In serving, separate the legs and wings at the joints, then separate the +breast from the lower part, and divide the breast lengthwise and +crosswise. +</p> + +<p> +Carving-scissors are convenient for cutting any kind of broiled game or +poultry. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap28"></a>ROAST TURKEY.</h3> + +<p> +Turkeys should be carefully trussed. The wings and thighs should be +brought close to the body and kept in position by skewers. The ends of +the drumsticks may be drawn into the body or crossed over the tail and +tied firmly. +</p> + +<p> +After cooking, free the ends of the drumsticks from the body and trim +them with a paper ruffle. This will enable the carver to touch them if +necessary without soiling his hands. Place the turkey on the platter +with the head at the left. Unless the platter be very large, provide an +extra dish, also a fork for serving. +</p> + +<p> +Insert the carving-fork across the middle of the breast-bone. Cut +through the skin between the breast and the thigh. Bend the leg over, +and cut off close to the body and through the joint. Cut through the top +of the shoulder down through the wing-joint. Shave off the breast in +thin slices, slanting from the front of the breast-bone down toward the +wing-joint. +</p> + +<p> +If the family be small and the turkey is to be served for a second +dinner, carve only from the side nearest you. Tip the bird over +slightly, and with the point of the knife remove the oyster and the +small dark portion found on the side-bone. Then remove the fork from the +breast and divide the leg and wing. Cut through the skin between the +body and breast, and with a spoon remove a portion of the stuffing. +Serve light or dark meat and stuffing, as preferred. If carved in +this way, the turkey will be left with one half entire, and if placed on a +clean platter with the cut side nearest the carver, and garnished with +parsley, will present nearly as fine an appearance, to all but the +carver, as when first served. +</p> + +<p> +When there are many to be served, take off the leg and wing from each +side and slice the whole of the breast before removing the fork; then +divide as required. +</p> + +<p> +It is not often necessary to cut up the whole body of the turkey; but +where every scrap of the meat will be needed, or you wish to exercise +your skill, proceed to carve in this manner. +</p> + +<p> +Put the fork in firmly across the middle of the breast-bone. Cut through +the skin between the leg and body. Bend the leg over and cut off at the +joint. If the turkey be very tender or overcooked, the side-bone will +separate from the back and come away with the second joint, making it +more difficult to separate the thigh from the side-bone. Cut through the +top of the shoulder and separate the wing at the joint. Cut off the leg +and wing from the other side. Carve the breast on each side, in thin +slices, slanting slightly toward the wing. Be careful to take a portion +of crisp outside with each slice. Shave off the crisp skin near the +neck, in order to reach the stuffing. Insert the point of the knife at +the front of the breast-bone, turn back the wish-bone and separate it. +Cut through the cartilage on each side, separating the collar-bones from +the breast. Tip the body slightly over and slip the knife under the end +of the shoulder-blade; turn it over toward the wing. Repeat this process +on the opposite side. Cut through the cartilage which divides the ribs, +separating the breast-bone from the back. Lay the breast one side and +remove the fork from it. Take the stuffing from the back. Turn the back +over, place the knife midway just below the ribs, and with the fork lift +up the tail end, separating the back from the body. Place the fork in +the middle of the backbone, and cut close to the backbone from one end +to the other, on each side, freeing the side-bone. Then divide the legs +and wings at the joints. The joint in the leg is not quite in the middle +of the bend, but a trifle nearer the thigh. It requires some practice to +strike these joints in the right spot. Cut off the meat from each side +of the bone in the second joint and leg, as these when large are more +than one person requires, and it is inconvenient to have so large bones +on one’s plate. +</p> + +<p> +It is easier to finish the carving before beginning to serve. An expert +carver will have the whole bird disjointed and literally in pieces with +a very few strokes of the knife. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap29"></a>ROAST GOOSE.</h3> + +<p> +A green goose neatly trussed and “done to a turn” looks very tempting on +the platter; but there is so little meat in proportion to the size of +the bird that unless it be skilfully carved only a small number can be +served. The breast of a goose is broader and flatter than that of a +turkey. It should be carved in a different manner, although many writers +give the same directions for carving both. +</p> + +<p> +Place it on the platter with the head at the left. Insert the fork +firmly across the ridge of the breast-bone. Begin at the wing and cut +down through the meat to the bone, the whole length of the breast. Cut +down in the same way in parallel slices, as thin as can be cut, until +you come to the ridge of the breast-bone. Slip the knife under the meat +at the end of the breast, and remove the slices from the bone. Cut in +the same manner on the other side of the breast. Cut through the skin +below the breast, insert a spoon and help to the stuffing. If more be +required, cut the wing off at the joint. Then tip the body over slightly +and cut off the leg. This thigh-joint is tougher, and requires more +skill in separating, than the second joint of a turkey. It lies nearer +the backbone. But practice and familiarity with its location will enable +one to strike it accurately. The wish-bone, shoulder-blade, and +collar-bone may be removed according to the directions given for carving +roast turkey. Some prefer to remove the wing and leg before slicing the +breast. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap30"></a>ROAST DUCK.</h3> + +<p> +Place it in the same position and carve in the same way as a goose. +</p> + +<p> +Begin at the wing, and cut down to the bone in long thin slices, +parallel with the breast-bone; then remove them from the bone. The +breast is the favorite portion; but the “wing of a flyer and the leg of +a swimmer” are esteemed by epicures. +</p> + +<p> +The stuffing is not often desired, but if so it may be found by cutting +across below the end of the breast. +</p> + +<p> +Geese and ducks are seldom entirely cut up at the table, as there is +very little meat on the back. But often from a seemingly bare carcass +enough may be obtained to make a savory entrée. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap31"></a>PIGEONS.</h3> + +<p> +These, if small, are served whole. If large, cut through the middle from +the neck to the end of the breast and down through the backbone. The +bones are thin, and may easily be divided with a sharp knife. When +smaller portions are required, cut from the shoulder down below the leg, +separating the wing and leg from the body. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap32"></a>PARTRIDGES.</h3> + +<p> +Cut through above the joint of the wing, down below the leg, and remove +the wing and leg in one portion. Cut under the breast from the lower end +through the ribs to the neck and remove the breast entire. Then divide +it through the middle, and, if very plump, divide again. When very small +they may be divided through the breast and back into two equal parts. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap33"></a>LARDED GROUSE.</h3> + +<p> +Turn the legs over and free them from the body. Cut slices down to the +bone the entire length of the breast; then slip the knife under and +remove the slices. Cut off the wing and leg, and separate the backbone +from the body. There are some morsels on the back which are considered +choice by those who like the peculiar flavor of this game. As this is a +dry meat, help generously to the bread sauce which should always +accompany it. +</p> + +<p> +Where this is the principal dish, or where a larger portion is required, +divide it through the breast, as directed for small pigeons. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Woodcock</i>, <i>Snipe</i>, and other <i>Small Birds</i> are usually served +whole. But if only a portion be desired, divide them through the breast. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap34"></a>RABBIT.</h3> + +<p> +A rabbit should be trussed, with the forelegs turned toward the back, +and the hind legs forward. Place it on the platter with the back up and +head at the left. Remove the shoulders by cutting round between them and +the body, carrying the knife up nearly to the backbone. Turn them back +and cut through the joint. Remove the hind legs in the same manner. Then +place the fork in the middle of the back and cut several slices from +each side of the loin parallel with the backbone. The loin is the +choicest part. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap35"></a>SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS.</h3> + +<p> +These are not divided, one being served to each person. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap36"></a>FISH.</h3> + +<p> +A broad silver knife should be used in serving fish. Serve as little of +the bone as possible, and be careful not to break the flakes. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Halibut or Salmon</i>. A middle cut, or thick piece, of halibut or salmon +should be placed on the platter with the skin surface up and the back +toward the farther side of the dish. Carve in thick slices down to the +bone, slip the knife under and remove them. Then remove the bone, and +serve the lower portion in the same manner. +</p> + +<p> +A thin slice of halibut should be laid on the platter with the flesh +side up. Cut next to the bone on each side, divide the fish as required, +and leave the bone on the platter. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Mackerel, White-fish</i>, etc. These and other thin fish for broiling +should be split down the back before cooking. In serving, divide through +the middle lengthwise, and then divide each half into such portions as +may be desired. Be careful not to break or crumble them. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Smelts, Perch</i>, and other small pan-fish are served whole. They should +be arranged on the dish with heads and tails alternating, or in a circle +round a silver cup placed in the centre of the platter and holding the +sauce. Or, place two or three on a silver skewer, and serve a skewerful +to each person. +</p> + +<p> +Small slices and rolled fillets of fish are not divided. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap37"></a>BAKED FISH.</h3> + +<p> +<i>Cod, Haddock, Cusk, Blue-fish, Shad, Small Salmon, and Bass</i>. These +when served whole may be carved in a more satisfactory manner if before +cooking they are prepared according to the following directions: +</p> + +<p> +Stuff them and place them upright in the pan instead of on one side. +Fish that are broad and short like shad may be kept in place by propping +with stale bread or pared potatoes; but others that are narrow in +proportion to the length may be skewered or tied into the shape of the +letter S. +</p> + +<p> +Thread a trussing needle with strong twine, run it through the head and +fasten it there; then bend the head round and draw the needle through +the middle of the body. Bend the tail in the opposite direction, run the +needle through near the tail, draw the string tightly and fasten it. +Gash the skin two inches apart on each side. Fish thus prepared will +retain its shape until served. +</p> + +<p> +Place it on the platter with the head at the left and the outward curve +on the farther side of the dish. Make an incision along each side of the +backbone the entire length of the fish. Then cut through the gashes on +the side nearest you and lay each portion away from the bone. Then +remove the fish on the farther side of the bone. Raise the bone to +reach the stuffing, and serve a little of the fish, stuffing, and sauce +to each person. The skeleton should be left entire on the platter. +</p> + +<p> +If the fish has been baked in the usual way and placed on the platter on +its side, cut across through to the backbone, but not through it, and +serve, apportioning as may be desired. Slip the knife under and remove +the portion from the bone. When the fish is all removed from the top, +remove the backbone, and then divide the lower portion. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap38"></a>SCALLOPED DISHES, MEAT PIES, ENTRÉES, ETC.</h3> + +<p> +Meats and fish which have the sauce on the same dish require special +care in serving, that they may present a neat rather than a sloppy +appearance on the plate. A drop of gravy on the edge of the plate will +offend a fastidious taste. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Scalloped Dishes</i>, or anything with a crust of crumbs, should be served +with a spoon. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Meat Pies</i>, with a pastry crust, require a broad knife and spoon. Put +the portion on the plate neatly, with the crust or browned side up. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Poached Eggs, Quails, and other Meats on Toast.</i> A broad knife should +be used in helping to these dishes. Take up the toast carefully, and lay +it on the plate without displacing the egg or bird. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap39"></a>SALADS.</h3> + +<p> +The most tasteful way of arranging meat-salads or fish-salads is with +whole, fresh, lettuce-leaves. Put two or more leaves together on the +platter, and in the nest or dish thus made lay a spoonful of the salad, +with the Mayonnaise on the top. In serving, slip the spoon or broad +knife under the leaves and keep them in place with the fork. Put the +salad on the plate carefully, in the same position, not tipped over. Or +you may have a border of fresh lettuce-leaves in the salad-dish. With +the fork lay one or two leaves on the plate, and then put a spoonful of +salad on the leaves. In this way each person has the Mayonnaise on the +top; the lettuce is underneath and fresh and crisp, instead of wilted, +as it would be if all of it were mixed with the salad. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap40"></a>VEGETABLES.</h3> + +<p> +In serving vegetables, take up a neat, rounding spoonful. Lay them on +the bottom of the plate, not on the rim or edge. Where there are several +kinds, do not let them touch each other on the plate. +</p> + +<p> +Serve, on separate dishes, <i>fritters</i> with a sweet sauce, <i>peas</i>, +<i>tomatoes</i>, or any vegetable with much liquid. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Asparagus on Toast</i> is a dish that one often sees served very +awkwardly. Use a square or rectangular platter rather than one narrow at +the ends. +</p> + +<p> +The bread for the toast should be cut long and narrow, rather than +square, and should be laid, not lengthwise, but across the platter. Lay +the asparagus in the same direction, the tips all at the farther side. +Put the knife, which should be broad and long, under the toast, and keep +the asparagus in place with the fork. You will find it much easier to +serve than when arranged in the usual way. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Macaroni</i> as often prepared is another dish which it is not easy to +serve neatly. Always break or cut it into pieces less than two inches +long, before cooking, or before it is sent to the table. +</p> + +<p> +In serving <i>sweet corn</i> on the cob, provide finger-bowls, or a small +doily to use in holding the ear of corn. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap41"></a>SOUPS.</h3> + +<p> +One ladleful of soup is sufficient for each plate. It is quite an art to +take up a ladleful and pour it into the soup-plate without dropping any +on the edge of the tureen or plate, and it requires a steady hand to +pass the plate without slopping the soup up on the rim. Dip the ladle +into the soup, take it up, and when the drop has fallen from the bottom +of it, lift it over quickly but empty it slowly. +</p> + +<p> +Croûtons and crackers lose their crispness if put into the tureen with +the soup, and should therefore be passed separately. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap42"></a>TEA AND COFFEE.</h3> + +<p> +Much has been written on the importance of serving neatly the various +drinks for an invalid. But careful service is equally essential at the +daily home table. It is mistaken generosity to fill the cup so full that +when sugar and cream are added, the liquid will spill over into the +saucer. One should never be compelled to clean the bottom of the cup on +the edge of the saucer, or on the napkin, to keep the liquid from +dripping on the cloth. +</p> + +<p> +In serving tea and coffee, ascertain the tastes of those at the table as +to sugar and cream. Put the cream and sugar in the cup, and an extra +block of sugar in the saucer; pour in the liquid until the cup is three +fourths full. Where there are no servants to wait on the table, this way +makes less confusion than to pass the sugar and cream to each person. +</p> + +<p> +Always provide a pitcher of boiling hot water and a slop-bowl. In cold +weather, pour hot water into the cups to warm them; then turn it into +the bowl. In serving a second time, rinse the inside of the cup with hot +water before filling. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap43"></a>PIES.</h3> + +<p> +It was formerly considered necessary to divide a pie with mathematical +exactness into quarters or sixths. A better way is to cut out one piece +of the usual size and offer it, and then if less be desired, cut off +such portions as may be needed. +</p> + +<p> +In serving a pie, always use a fork with the knife. +</p> + +<p> +Pies with no undercrust are more easily served with a broad knife or a +triangular knife made expressly for pies. For serving berry and juicy +fruit pies, a spoon also may be needed. Where two or three kinds are +served, help to very small portions of each, even if it be at a +Thanksgiving dinner. +</p> + +<p> +It is presuming on the capacity of the common-sized plate, and it is an +insult to the human stomach, to offer any one three sixths of a pie +after a dinner of the usual courses. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap44"></a>PUDDINGS.</h3> + +<p> +Hot puddings of a soft consistency should be served with a spoon; +sometimes a fork also is needed. With the edge of the spoon cut through +the brown crust in a semicircle, slip the spoon under, and take up a +spoonful; slip it off on the plate, leaving it right side up. +</p> + +<p> +Take special case to serve temptingly anything with a meringue. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap45"></a>MOULDS OF PUDDING, CREAMS, CHARLOTTE RUSSE, ICE-CREAM, ETC. +</h3> + +<p> +Anything stiff enough to be moulded should be cut in slices from three +fourths of an inch to an inch thick; the wider slices in oval-shaped +moulds may be divided through the middle. A broad silver knife with a +raised edge is very convenient to use in serving Bavarian Cream, +Ice-Creams, and Charlottes. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap46"></a>FRUIT AND NUTS.</h3> + +<p> +A pair of grape scissors should be laid on the fruit-dish to use in +dividing large bunches of grapes or raisins; but a nut-cracker is too +suggestive of hotel life to be acceptable on the home table. Crack the +nuts before they are sent to the table. Salt should be served with the +nuts. +</p> + +<p> +Pass oranges, apples, pears, peaches, and bananas in the fruit-dish, to +allow each person the opportunity of choice. +</p> + +<p> +<i>Watermelon</i>. Before serving, cut a slice from each end. Make incisions +through the middle in the form of the letter V, separate the parts, and +place each in an upright position. Cut through the divisions, and serve +one section to each person. +</p> + +<p> +Cantaloupes, if small, are sometimes served cut in halves. If large, +divide from end to end in nature’s lines of depression. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap47"></a>THE THICKNESS OF SLICES.</h3> + +<p> +By “very thin slices of meat” we mean slices less than an eighth of an +inch thick. +</p> + +<p> +“Thin slices” are from one eighth of an inch to three sixteenths of an +inch in thickness. +</p> + +<p> +Slices of “medium thickness” are one quarter of an inch. +</p> + +<p> +Bread for dinner should be cut in slices one inch and a half thick, and +each slice should be divided across into three or four long pieces, +according to the width of the slice. +</p> + +<p> +For tea, cut slices three eighths of an inch thick, and for toast, one +quarter of an inch. +</p> + +<p> +Thick loaves of cake should be cut in slices from three fourths of an +inch to an inch thick, and divided once. Cut loaves of medium thickness +in pieces as broad as the cake is thick, and divide them once. Thin +sheets of cake should be cut in rectangular pieces twice as broad as the +cake is thick. Then divide once, or even twice, if the sheet be very +wide. Layer cakes baked in round pans are usually divided into +triangular pieces; but they are less suggestive of baker’s Washington +pie, which is so offensively common, if the edges be trimmed in such a +way as to leave a square. Then cut this square into smaller squares or +rectangles. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap48"></a>UTENSILS FOR CARVING AND SERVING.</h3> + +<p> +In any first-class cutlery store you will find knives for each special +kind of carving. If your purse will permit the indulgence, it will be +convenient to have a breakfast-carver, a slicer, a jointer, a +game-carver, and a pair of game-scissors. But if you can afford to have +only one, you will find a medium-sized meat-carver the knife best +adapted to all varieties of carving. The blade should be about nine +inches long and one inch and a quarter wide, slightly curved, and +tapering to a point. +</p> + +<p> +The fork should have two slender curving tines about three eighths of an +inch apart and two and a half inches long, and should have a guard. +</p> + +<p> +A breakfast or steak carver is of the same general shape, but the handle +is smaller, and the blade is six or seven inches long. A slicer for +roasts has a wide, straight blade, twelve inches long, and rounded +instead of pointed at the end. This is especially convenient for carving +thin slices from any large roasts, or other varieties of solid meat. The +width of the blade helps to steady the meat, and its great length +enables one to cut with a single, long, smooth stroke through the entire +surface. With a knife having a short blade a sort of sawing motion would +be made, and the slice would be jagged. As there are no joints to +separate, a point on the blade is unnecessary. +</p> + +<p> +A jointer is another form of carver, useful where +the joints are so large or so difficult to separate that considerable strength is +required. The handle has a crook or guard on the end to enable the +carver to grasp it more securely and use all the strength necessary. +</p> + +<p> +A game-carver has a small, narrow, pointed blade; but the shape and +length of the handle is the distinguishing feature. The handle should be +long enough to reach from the tip of the forefinger to an inch beyond +the back side of the hand, so that the edge of the hand about an inch +above the wrist rests against the handle of the carver. In dividing a +difficult joint, the manipulation should be made, not by turning the +hand, but by turning the knife with the fingers. In this way the +position of the point of the blade can be more easily changed as the +joint may require. The handle of the carving-knife supports the hand of +the carver. +</p> + +<p> +Game-scissors have handles like scissors; the two short blades are quite +deeply curved, something like the blade of a pruning-knife, making the +cutting-power greater. This enables the person using them to cut through +quite large bones in tough joints which would otherwise be quite +difficult to separate. +</p> + +<p> +Another form of jointer has two blades, one shorter than the other, and +a round handle divided the entire length, with a spring in the end next +the blade. When the handle is closed, the blades are together and the +outer edge of the longer blade is used like a knife for cutting the +meat. By opening the handle the curving edges of the blades are used +like scissors for cutting the bones. +</p> + +<p> +There are various styles of steels or knife-sharpeners, but the one now +in my possession is the best I have ever seen. +</p> + +<p> +It is a four-sided bar of steel, about three eighths of an inch wide and +thick, and eight inches long, having the four sides deeply grooved, thus +making the edges very prominent. These edges are so sharp that but +little pressure of the knife on the steel is required. The handle has a +large guard to protect the left hand from the edge of the blade. +</p> + +<p> +But few people know how to use a steel properly. It is difficult to +describe the process,—so easy to a natural mechanic and so awkward to +others,—or to instruct one in the knack of it, by mere description. +Hold the steel firmly in the left hand. Let the edge of the knife near +the handle rest on the steel, the back of the knife raised slightly at +an angle of about 30°. Draw the knife along lightly but steadily, always +at the same angle, the entire length of the blade. Then pass the knife +under the steel and draw the other surface along the opposite edge of +the steel, from the handle to the point, at the same angle. Repeat these +alternate motions the entire length of the blade, not on the point +merely, until you have an edge. +</p> + +<p> +Some persons prefer to turn the knife over, drawing it first from the +left hand and then toward it, sharpening each surface alternately on the +same edge of the steel. This is more difficult to do, as you cannot +so surely keep the blade at the same angle,—and this is the most important +point. If held at any other than the proper angle, either no edge is +made, or it is taken off as soon as obtained. +</p> + +<p> +It is bewildering, if one has any intention of buying, to examine the +assortment of spoons, knives, forks, etc., displayed at the +silversmith’s. +</p> + +<p> +There are ladles for soups, sauces, gravy, and cream; shovels for sugar +and salt, and scoops for cheese; tongs for sugar, pickles, olives, and +asparagus; spoons for sugar, jelly, fruit, sauces, salads, vegetables, +and macaroni; slicers for ice-cream, cake, and jelly; knives for fish, +pie, cake, and fruit; forks for fish, oysters, pickles, olives, salad, +and asparagus; scissors for grapes and raisins; crackers and picks for +nuts; and rests for the carving knife and fork. Some of these are really +useful; some as little so as many of the hundred and one novelties +designed particularly for wedding gifts. But in neat and careful serving +it is essential to have a soup-ladle, a gravy or sauce ladle, a pair of +tongs or shells for block sugar, a slender-tined silver fork for +pickles, a plentiful supply of large and medium-sized spoons, a +carving-rest, a crumb-scraper, and at least one broad silver knife and +fork, which if occasion requires may do duty at several courses. +</p> + +<h3><a name="chap49"></a>LAST BUT NOT LEAST.</h3> + +<p> +In offering a second portion of anything do not remind one that he has +already been helped. +</p> + +<p> +“Can’t I give you another piece of meat or pie?” “Won’t you have some +more tea or pudding?” Expressions like these are frequently heard. +</p> + +<p> +It is in far better taste to say, “Will you have some hot coffee?” “May +I give you some of the salad?” “Let me help you to this choice portion.” +</p> + +<p> +We trust none of our readers will regard this suggestion as trivial. +For, concerning kindness, we know that perfection is no trifle. It is +the essence of that second commandment which we are divinely told is +like “the first of all the commandments;” and it cannot be attained +without assiduous attention to all the minor words and the common acts +of life. +</p> + +<hr style='width: 80%;' /> + +<p class="center"> +<i>“Among all the Cook-Books this will certainly take its place as one of +the very best</i>.”—THE CHRISTIAN UNION +</p> + +<hr style='width: 10%;' /> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div class="chapter"> + +<h2>MRS. LINCOLN’S<br/> +BOSTON COOK-BOOK.</h2> + +<h3>WHAT TO DO AND WHAT NOT TO DO IN COOKING.</h3> + +<h3>BY MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN,</h3> + +<h5>FIRST PRINCIPAL OF THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL</h5> + +<h3>NEW REVISED EDITION, including 250 additional recipes.</h3> + +<h5><i>With</i> 50 <i>Illustrations</i>. 12<i>mo</i>. <i>Cloth</i>. +600 <i>pages</i>. <i>Price</i> $2.00.</h5> + +<hr style='width: 10%;' /> + +<h3>A SELECTION FROM SOME OF THE MANY NOTICES BY THE PRESS.</h3> + +<p> +“Mrs. Lincoln, nothing daunted by the legion of cook-books already in +existence, thinks there is room for one more. Her handsome and +serviceable-looking volume seems to contain everything essential to a +complete understanding of the culinary art. The Introduction of +thirty-five pages discusses such subjects as cooking in general, fire, +fuel, management of a stove, the various processes of boiling, stewing, +baking, frying, roasting, and broiling, with full explanation of the +chemical theory underlying each and distinguishing them; also hints on +measuring and mixing, with tables of weights, measures, and proportions; +of time in cooking various articles, and of average cost of material. +One who can learn nothing from this very instructive Introduction must +be well-informed indeed. Following this comes an elaborate and +exhaustive chapter on bread-making in all its steps and phases. To this +important topic some seventy pages are devoted. And so on through the +whole range of viands. Exactness, plainness, thoroughness, seem to +characterize all the author’s teachings. No point is neglected, and +directions are given for both necessary and luxurious dishes. There are +chapters on cooking for invalids, the dining-room, care of kitchen +utensils, etc. There is also a valuable outline of study for teachers +taking up the chemical properties of food, and the physiological +functions of digestion, absorption, nutrition, etc. Add the +miscellaneous questions for examination, the topics and illustrations +for lectures on cookery, list of utensils needed in a cooking-school, an +explanation of foreign terms used in cookery, a classified and an +alphabetical index,—and you have what must be considered as complete a +work of its kind as has yet appeared.”—<i>Mirror, Springfield, Ill</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“In answer to the question, ‘What does cookery mean?’ Mr. Ruskin says: +‘It means the knowledge of Circe and Medea, and of Calypso and of Helen, +and of Rebekah and of all the Queens of Sheba. It means knowledge of all +fruits and balms and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in +fields and groves, and savory to meals; it means carefulness and +inventiveness, and readiness of appliances; it means the economy of your +great-grandmothers and the science of modern chemistry; it means much +tasting and no wasting; it means English thoroughness, and French art, +and American hospitality.’ It is not extravagant to say that as far as +these mythological, biblical, and practical requirements can be met by +one weak woman, they are met by Mrs. Lincoln. And to the varied and +extensive range of knowledge she adds an acquaintance with Milton and +with Confucius, as shown by the apt quotations on her titlepage. The +book is intended to satisfy the needs and wants of the experienced +housekeeper, the tyro, and of the teacher in a cooking-school. In its +receipts, in its tables of time and proportion, in its clear and minute +directions about every detail of kitchen and dining-room, it has left +unanswered few questions which may suggest themselves to the most or the +least intelligent.”—<i>The Nation</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“Mrs. Lincoln’s ‘Boston Cook-Book’ is no mere amateur compilation, much +less an <i>omnium gatherum</i> of receipts. Its title does scant justice to +it, for it is not so much a cook-book as a dietetic and culinary +cyclopædia. Mrs. Lincoln is a lady of culture and practical tastes, who +has made the fine art of <i>cuisine</i> the subject of professional study and +teaching. In this book she has shown her literary skill and +intelligence, as well as her expertness as a practical cook and teacher +of cookery. It is full of interest and instruction for any one, though +one should never handle a skillet or know the feeling of dough. Nothing +in the way of explanation is left unsaid. And for a young housekeeper, +it is a complete outfit for the culinary department of her duties and +domain. There are many excellent side-hints as to the nature, history, +and hygiene of food, which are not often found in such books; and the +Indexes are of the completest and most useful kind. We find ourselves +quite enthusiastic over the work, and feel like saying to the +accomplished authoress, ‘Many daughters have done virtuously, but thou +excellest them all.’”—<i>Rev. Dr. Zabriskie, in Christian Intelligencer</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“Among all the cook-books, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln’s ‘Boston Cook-Book’ will +certainly take its place as one of the very best. It is published and +arranged in a very convenient and attractive form, and the style in +which it is written has a certain literary quality which will tempt +those who are not interested in recipes and cooking to peruse its pages. +The recipes are practical, and give just those facts which are generally +omitted from books of this sort, to the discouragement of the +housekeeper, and frequently to the lamentable disaster and failure of +her plans. Mrs. Lincoln has laid a large number of people under +obligation, and puts into her book a large amount of general experience +in the difficult and delicate art of cooking. The book is admirably +arranged, and is supplied with the most perfect indexes we have ever +seen in any work of the kind”—<i>The Christian Union</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“Mrs. Lincoln has written a cook-book; really written one, not made +merely a compilation of receipts,—that sort of mechanical work any one +can do who has patience enough to search for the rules, and system +enough to arrange them. Mrs. Lincoln’s book is written out of the +experience of life, both as a housekeeper and a teacher. Her long +experience as principal of the Boston Cooking-School has enabled her to +find out just what it is that people most want and need to know. I have +no hesitation in recommending Mrs. Lincoln’s as the best cook-book, in +all respects, of any I have seen. It is exactly fitted for use as a +family authority, in that it is the work, not of a theorizer, but of a +woman who knows what she is talking about. It is the very common-sense +of the science of cookery.”—<i>Extracts from Sallie Joy White’s letters +in Philadelphia and Portland papers</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“Mrs. Lincoln’s ‘Boston Cook-Book’ is a characteristically American, not +to say Yankee, production. Boston productions are nothing if not +profound, and even this cookery manual must begin with a definition, a +pinch of philology, and the culinary chemistry of heat, cold, water, +air, and drying.... But a touch of the blue-stocking has never been +harmful to cookery. This book is as deft as it is fundamental. It is so +perfectly and generously up to everything culinary, that it cannot help +spilling over a little into sciences and philosophy. It is the trimmest, +best arranged, best illustrated, most intelligible, manual of cookery as +a high art, and as an economic art, that has appeared.”—<i>Independent</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“It is a pleasure to be able to give a man or a book unqualified praise. +We have no fear in saying that Mrs. Lincoln’s work is the best and most +practical cook-book of its kind that has ever appeared. It does not +emanate from the <i>chef</i> of some queen’s or nobleman’s <i>cuisine</i>, but it +tells in the most simple and practical and exact way those little things +which women ought to know, but have generally to learn by sad experience. +It is a book which ought to be in every household.”—<i>Philadelphia Press</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“The ‘Boston Cook-Book’ has a special recommendation. The author, Mrs. +Lincoln, was early trained to a love for all household work. That +precious experience is a thing for which a cooking-school is no manner +of substitute, while it is just the thing for professional training to +build upon, widen, and correct. Mrs. Lincoln’s book is practical, and +though there is much of theory, it gives proof of being based less upon +theory and much upon experiment. The book is handsomely gotten up, and +will ere long attest its usefulness in better food better prepared, and +therefore better digested, in many homes.”—<i>Leader</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“It is the embodiment of the actual experience and observation of a +woman who has learned and employed superior domestic methods. It is the +outcome of Mrs. Lincoln’s conscientious and successful labors for the +development of practical cooking. It is to be recommended for its +usefulness in point of receipts of moderate cost and quantity, in its +variety, its comprehensiveness, and for the excellence of its +typographical form.”—<i>Boston Transcript</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“The instruction given by Mrs. Lincoln at the Boston Cooking-School is +so widely and favorably known for its thoroughness and attention to +scientific and economical principles, that a cook-book embodying these +ideas and principles will be considered a great gain to the housekeeping +department. In care and excellence, her book illustrates the modern +advance in home cooking.”—<i>Boston Journal</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“The book needs no other <i>raison d’être</i> than its own excellence. Every +housekeeper in the land would be fortunate to have upon her shelf a copy +of Mrs. Lincoln’s work.”—<i>Boston Courier</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“Mrs. Lincoln’s book contains in one volume what most other cook-books +contain in three; and its directions are always terse and to the point. +It is a thoroughly practical book, and teaches us all how to live well +and wisely every day in the year.”—<i>The Beacon</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“The most valuable feature of Mrs. Lincoln’s Cook-Book is, without +doubt, the application of scientific knowledge to the culinary art. Mrs. +Lincoln has the gift of teaching, and its use in this connection is +worthy of the warmest commendation. She has made the necessary +explanations in a very lucid and succinct manner. To the thousands of +intelligent housekeepers who recognize the importance of the art of the +kitchen, this book will be a boon.”—<i>Eclectic</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“The book, although at first sight it seems no larger than other +cook-books, has over five hundred pages, and takes up the minutest +details of housekeeping. Having examined all the standard cook-books now +in the market, this seems superior to all. There is so much in this that +is not found in other cook-books, that it is equal to a small library in +itself.”—<i>Extracts from Anna Barrow’s letters in Oxford and Portland +papers</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“We have at last from Boston something better than the Emersonian +philosophy or the learning of Harvard,—something that will contribute +more to human health, and consequently to human happiness; and that is, +a good, practical cook-book, with illustrations.... We commend Mrs. +Lincoln’s volume heartily, and wish it might make a part of every bridal +outfit.”—<i>The Churchman</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“For plain, practical, and at the same time scientific treatment of a +difficult subject, commend us to Mrs. Lincoln’s ‘Boston Cook-Book.’ No +better book has appeared to keep pace with the wholesome advance of +culinary art, as practiced in the common-sense cooking-school.”—<i>Toledo</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“It combines whatever is best in those which have gone before, with +improvements and refinements peculiar to itself. It is so complete and +admirable in its various departments, that it seems to fill every +requirement. How soon it will be rivalled or superseded it is unsafe to +predict; but for the present we may commend it as in every respect +unsurpassed.”—<i>The Dial</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“The volume is a compound of information on every household matter; well +arranged, clearly written, and attractively made up. Of the many +valuable cook-books, not one better deserves a place, or is more likely +to secure and hold it.”—<i>Helen Campbell</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“The possession of your cook-book has made me quite beside myself. I +prize it highly, not only for personal reasons, but because of its real +worth. I feel so safe with it as a guide, and if I abide by its rules +and laws no harm can befall me.”—<i>Adeline Miller, a former pupil, +Atlanta, Georgia</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“One need only glance over the pages of Mrs Lincoln’s Cook-Book to +realize the fact of her aptness in scholarship.”—<i>Alta, San Francisco</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“Mrs. Lincoln brings not only the fruits of a long experience to the +preparation of her work, but a great amount of scientific research, so +that the book is really a mine of information in its way.”—<i>The Post, +Washington</i>. +</p> + +<p> +“It is one of the most interesting treatises on cooking and housework that +we have ever read. It contains much useful information to the general +reader, and is one we would recommend to every housekeeper.”—<i>Saratoga +Sentinel</i>. +</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p> +Mrs. Lincoln’s Boston Cook-Book <i>is kept on sale by all booksellers +everywhere. If you cannot readily obtain it, enclose the amount, $2.00, +directly to</i> MRS. D.A. LINCOLN, Boston, Mass., <i>or to the Publishers, +who will mail it, postpaid</i>. +</p> + +<p class="right"> +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON +</p> + +</div><!--end chapter--> + +<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARVING AND SERVING ***</div> +<div style='text-align:left'> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will +be renamed. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ +concept and trademark. 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Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed38f65 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #15363 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/15363) diff --git a/old/15363-8.txt b/old/15363-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f26a3b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/15363-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1942 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Carving and Serving, by Mrs. D. A. Lincoln + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Carving and Serving + +Author: Mrs. D. A. Lincoln + +Release Date: March 15, 2005 [EBook #15363] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARVING AND SERVING *** + + + + +Produced by Jason Isbell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. (www.pgdp.net) + + + + + +CARVING AND SERVING + +BY MRS. D.A. LINCOLN +AUTHOR OF "THE BOSTON COOK BOOK" + +BOSTON +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY +1906 + +_Copyright, 1886_, BY MRS. D.A. LINCOLN. + +University Press: +JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS 7 + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS 15 + TIP OF THE SIRLOIN, OR RIB ROAST 15 + SIRLOIN ROAST 16 + THE BACK OF THE RUMP 16 + FILLET OF BEEF OR TENDERLOIN 17 + ROUND OF BEEF, FILLET OF VEAL, OR FRICANDEAU OF VEAL 17 + BEEFSTEAK 18 + LEG OF MUTTON OR LAMB, OR KNUCKLE OF VEAL 19 + LEG OF VENISON 20 + SADDLE OF MUTTON 20 + SADDLE OF VENISON 21 + HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON 21 + LOIN OF MUTTON, LAMB, VEAL, PORK, OR VENISON 22 + SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR VEAL 22 + FOREQUARTER OF LAMB OR VEAL 23 + NECK OF VEAL 24 + BREAST OF VEAL 24 + CALF'S HEAD 25 + ROAST PIG 25 + HAM 26 + TONGUE 27 + CORNED BEEF 27 + CHARTREUSE, OR PRESSED MEAT 28 + TO CUT UP A CHICKEN FOR A STEW OR FRICASSEE 28 + BOILED FOWL OR TURKEY 30 + BROILED CHICKEN 32 + ROAST TURKEY 33 + ROAST GOOSE 35 + ROAST DUCK 36 + PIGEONS 37 + PARTRIDGES 37 + LARDED GROUSE 38 + RABBIT 38 + SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS 39 + FISH 39 + BAKED FISH 40 + SCALLOPED DISHES, MEAT PIES, ENTRES, ETC. 41 + SALADS 42 + VEGETABLES 42 + SOUPS 43 + TEA AND COFFEE 43 + PIES 44 + PUDDINGS 45 + MOULDS OF PUDDING, CREAMS, CHARLOTTE RUSSE, ICE-CREAM, ETC. 45 + FRUIT AND NUTS 46 + THE THICKNESS OF SLICES 47 + UTENSILS FOR CARVING AND SERVING 48 + LAST BUT NOT LEAST 52 + + + + +CARVING AND SERVING. + + + + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS. + + +"Do you teach your pupils how to carve?" + +"Please give us a lecture on carving; my husband says he will come if +you will." + +I have been so frequently addressed in this way that I have decided to +publish a manual on the Art of Carving. Instruction in this art cannot +be given at a lecture with any profit to my pupils or satisfaction to +myself. One cannot learn by simply seeing a person carve a few times. As +much as any other art, it requires study; and success is not attainable +without much practice. There are certain rules which should be +thoroughly understood; if followed faithfully in daily practice, they +will help more than mere observation. + +This manual is not offered as a guide for special occasions, company +dinners, etc., nor for those whose experience renders it unnecessary, or +whose means allow them to employ one skilled in the art. But it is +earnestly hoped that the suggestions here offered will aid those who +desire, at their own table in everyday home life, to acquire that ease +and perfection of manner which, however suddenly it may be confronted +with obstacles, will be equal to every occasion. + +Printed rules for carving are usually accompanied with cuts showing the +position of the joint or fowl on the platter, and having lines +indicating the method of cutting. But this will not be attempted in this +manual, as such illustrations seldom prove helpful; for the actual thing +before us bears faint resemblance to the pictures, which give us only +the surface, with no hint of what may be inside. + +It is comparatively a slight matter to carve a solid mass of lean meat. +It is the bones, tough gristle, and tendons, that interfere with the +easy progress of the knife. To expect any one to carve well without any +conception of the internal structure of what may be placed before him is +as absurd as to expect one to amputate a limb successfully who has no +knowledge of human anatomy. + +Some notion of the relative position of bones, joints, fat, tough and +tender muscles, is the first requisite to good carving. All agree that +skill in carving may be acquired by practice; and so it may. Any one can +divide a joint if he cut and hack at it long enough, and so learn after +a time just where to make the right cut. But a more satisfactory way is +to make a careful study before the material is cooked, and thus learn +the exact position of every joint, bone, and muscle. Become familiar +with a shoulder or a leg of mutton; locate the joints by moving the +bones in the joints, or by cutting it into sections, some time when it +is to be used for a stew. Or remove the bone in the leg by scraping the +meat away at either end. Learn to distinguish the different cuts of +meat. The best way to learn about carving poultry and game is to cut +them up for a stew or fricassee, provided care be taken not to chop +them, but to disjoint them skilfully. + +Then, when you attempt to carve, do the best you can every time. Never +allow yourself to be careless about it, even should the only spectators +be your wife and children. But do not make your first effort in the art +at a company dinner. Every lady should learn the art. There is no reason +why she may not excel in it, as she has every opportunity to study the +joint or fowl before cooking. Strength is not required, so much as +neatness and care. A firm, steady hand, a cool, collected manner, and +confidence in one's ability will help greatly. Children also should be +taught this accomplishment, and should be taught it as soon as they can +handle a knife safely. If parents would allow the children to share +their duties at the daily family table, and occasionally when company is +present, a graceful manner would soon be acquired. When called upon to +preside over their own homes there would less frequently be heard the +apology, "Father always carved at home, and I have had no practice." The +only recollection that I now have of a dinner at a friend's some years +ago is the easy and skilful way a young son of my hostess presided at +the head of the table, while the father occupied the place of guest at +the mother's right hand. + +One must learn first of all to carve neatly, without scattering crumbs +or splashing gravy over the cloth or platter; also to cut straight, +uniform slices. This may seem an easy matter; but do we often see +pressed beef, tongue, or even bread cut as it should be? Be careful to +divide the material in such a manner that each person may be served +equally well. Have you never received all flank, or a hard dry wing, +while another guest had all tenderloin, or the second joint? After a +little experience you can easily distinguish between the choice portions +and the inferior. Lay each portion on the plate with the browned or best +side up. Keep it compact, not mussy; and serve a good portion of meat, +not a bone with hardly any meat on it. After all are served, the portion +on the platter should not be left jagged, rough, and sprawling, but +should look inviting enough to tempt one to desire a second portion. + +Care should be taken to carve in such a way as to get the best effect. A +nice joint is often made less inviting from having been cut with the +grain, while meat of rather poor quality is made more tender and +palatable if divided across the grain. Where the whole of the joint is +not required, learn to carve economically, that it may be left in good +shape for another dinner. + +After you have learned to do the simplest work neatly and gracefully, +much painstaking will be necessary in acquiring the power to accomplish +with elegance the more difficult tasks. For to reach the highest degree +of excellence in the art, one must be able to carve the most difficult +joint with perfect skill and ease. + +But after all this study and a great amount of practice failure often +happens, and blame is laid upon the carver which really belongs to some +other person,--the butcher, the cook, the table-girl, or the guest. Not +all men who sell meat know or practice the best way of cutting up meat. +Much may be done by the butcher and by the cook to facilitate the work +of the carver. These helps will be noticed more particularly under the +head of special dishes. + +An essential aid to easy carving, and one often overlooked, is that the +platter be large enough to hold not merely the joint or fowl while +whole, but also the several portions as they are detached. + +The joint should be placed in the middle of the platter, in the position +indicated under special directions. There should be sufficient space on +either side for the portions of meat as they are carved; that is, space +on the bottom, none of the slices being allowed to hang over the edge of +the dish. If necessary, provide an extra dish. The persistency with +which some housekeepers cling to a small dish for fear the meat will +look lost on a larger one often makes successful carving impossible. + +The platter should be placed near the carver, that he may easily reach +any part of the joint. + +The cook should see that all skewers, strings, etc., be removed before +sending the meat or fish to the table. It is extremely awkward to find +one's knife impeded by a bit of twine. + +The carver may stand or sit, as suits his convenience. Anything that is +done easily is generally done gracefully, but when one works at a +disadvantage awkwardness is always the result. + +A very important matter is the condition of the knife. It should have a +handle easy to grasp, a long, thin, sharp, pointed blade, and be of a +size adapted to the article to be carved and to the person using it. A +lady or a child will prefer a small knife. Be as particular to have the +knife sharp as to have it bright and clean; and always sharpen it before +announcing the dinner. It is very annoying for a person to be obliged to +wait and sharpen the knife, or to turn the meat round to get it into the +right position. Never allow a carving-knife to be used to cut bread, or +for any other than its legitimate purpose. + +The fork should be strong, with long tines, and should have a guard. + +Place the fork deep enough in the meat so that you can hold it firmly in +position. Hold the knife and fork in an easy, natural way. Many persons +grasp the fork as if it were a dagger, and stab it into the meat; but +such a display of force is unnecessary and clownish. The hand should be +over the handle of the fork, the palm down, and the forefinger extended. + +Do not appear to make hard work of carving. Avoid all scowling or +contortion of the mouth if a difficult spot be touched. Don't let your +countenance betray the toughness of the joint or your own lack of skill. +Work slowly but skilfully, and thus avoid the danger of landing the +joint in your neighbor's lap. + +Do not be guilty of the discourtesy of asking each guest, before you +begin to carve, to choose between roast lamb and warmed-over beef, or +between pie and pudding, or whatever you may have, and thus cause a +guest who may have chosen the lamb or the pie the discomfort of knowing +that it has been cut solely for her. Such economy may be excusable in +the privacy of one's own family, but not in the presence of invited +guests. First divide or carve what you have to serve, and then offer the +choice to your guests. + +"To carve and serve decently and in good order" is indeed mainly the +duty of the host; but there is sometimes an unfortunate lack of skill on +the part of the hostess in her share of the serving. A certain pride is +permitted to her, and is expected of her, in serving neatly her tea, +coffee, and soup, in dividing appropriately her pies and puddings, and +even in cutting and arranging deftly the bread upon her board. + +A word to the guest, and then we will proceed to explicit directions. + +Never stare at the carver. Remember you are invited to dine, not to take +a lesson in carving. Appear perfectly unconscious of his efforts; a +glance now and then will give you sufficient insight into his method. +There often seems to be an irresistible fascination about carving which +silences all tongues and draws all eyes to the head of the table. The +most skilful carver will sometimes fail if conscious of being watched. +With a little tact the hostess can easily engage the attention of her +guests, that the carver may not be annoyed. + +Should your preference be asked, and you have any, name it at once, +provided there is also enough for others who may prefer the same kind. +Remember there are only two fillets, or side-bones, or second joints; if +you are the first to be served, do not test the skill of the carver by +preferring a portion difficult to obtain. + +Many of these cautions may seem uncalled for, but they have been +suggested by personal observation of their necessity. People of good +breeding would never err in any of these ways; but alas, not all people +are well bred, and innate selfishness often crops out in small matters. + +The following explicit directions have not been taken from books. They +were given to the writer a few years ago by one who was an adept in the +art, who had received her instruction from a skilful surgeon, and who at +her own table gave a practical demonstration of the fact that a lady can +not only "carve decently and in good order," but with ease and elegance. + + + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS. + + +TIP OF THE SIRLOIN, OR RIB ROAST. + +It is easier to carve this joint by cutting across the ribs, parallel +with the backbone, but that is cutting with the grain; and meat, +especially beef, seems more tender if cut across the grain. + +Place it on the platter with the backbone at the right. If the backbones +be not removed before cooking, place the fork in the middle and cut +close to the backbone down to the ribs. Shave off the thick, gristly +cord near the backbone, as this, if left on, interferes with cutting +thin slices. Then cut, from the side nearest you, thin uniform slices +parallel with the ribs. Run the knife under and separate them from the +bone. Many prefer to remove the bone and skewer the meat into a roll +before cooking. It may then be laid, flesh down, on the dish, and carved +across the top horizontally in thin slices; or if you find it easier, +place it with the skin surface up, and carve down from the flesh side +nearest you. + +This style of serving is generally preferred, but there are advantages +in retaining the bone; for the thin end when rolled under is not cooked +to such a nice degree of crispness, and the slices are usually larger +than desired. Again, the ribs, by keeping the meat in position, secure +for it a clean cut, and not one broken and jagged, and the thin end may +be served or not, as you please. + + +SIRLOIN ROAST. + +The backbone or thickest end should be at the right end of the dish. + +Carve a sirloin roast by cutting several thin slices parallel with the +ribs. Then cut down across the ribs near the backbone, and also at the +flank end, and separate the slices. + +The slices should be as thin as possible and yet remain slices, not +shavings. Turn the meat over and cut out the tenderloin and slice it in +the same manner across the grain; or turn the meat over and remove the +tenderloin first. Many prefer to leave the tenderloin to be served cold. +Cut slices of the crisp fat on the flank in the same way, and serve to +those who wish it. This is a part which many dislike, but some persons +consider it very choice. Always offer it unless you know the tastes of +those whom you are serving. + + +THE BACK OF THE RUMP. + +A roast from the back of the rump, if cooked without removing the bone, +should be placed on the platter with the backbone on the farther side. +Cut first underneath to loosen the meat from the bone. Then, if the +family be large and all the meat is to be used, the slices may be cut +lengthwise; but should only a small quantity be needed, cut crosswise +and only from the small end. It is then in better shape for the second +day. + +It is more economical to serve the poorer parts the first day, as they +are never better than when hot and freshly cooked. Reserve the more +tender meat to be served cold. + + +FILLET OF BEEF OR TENDERLOIN. + +Before cooking, remove all the fat, and every fibre of the tough white +membrane. Press it into shape again and lard it, or cover it with its +own fat. If this fibre be not removed, the sharpest knife will fail to +cut through it. Place it on the platter with the larger end at the +right; or if two short fillets be used, place the thickest ends in the +middle. Carve from the thickest part, in thin, uniform slices. + + +ROUND OF BEEF, FILLET OF VEAL, OR FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +These are placed on the platter, flesh side up, and carved in horizontal +slices, care being taken to carve evenly, so that the portion remaining +may be in good shape. As the whole of the browned outside comes off with +the first slices, divide this into small pieces, to be served if desired +with the rare, juicy, inside slices. + + +BEEFSTEAK. + +It may seem needless to direct one how to carve a sirloin steak, but it +sometimes appears to require more skill than to carve poultry, as those +who have been so unfortunate as to receive only the flank can testify. + +I believe most strongly, as a matter of economy, in removing the bone, +and any tough membrane or gristle that will not be eaten, before cooking +the steak. If there be a large portion of the flank, cook that in some +other way. With a small, sharp knife cut close to the rib on each side, +round the backbone, and remove the tough white membrane on the edge of +the tenderloin. Leave the fat on the upper edge, and the kidney fat +also, or a part of it, if it be very thick. There need be no waste or +escape of juices if the cutting be done quickly, neatly, and just before +cooking. Press the tenderloin--that is, the small portion on the under +side of the bone--close to the upper part, that the shape may not be +changed. + +In serving place it on the dish with the tenderloin next to the carver. +Cut in long narrow strips from the fat edge down through the tenderloin. +Give each person a bit of tenderloin, upper part, and fat. If the bone +be not removed before cooking, remove the tenderloin first by cutting +close to the bone, and divide it into narrow pieces; then remove the +meat from the upper side of the bone and cut in the same manner. A long, +narrow strip about as wide as the steak is thick is much more easily +managed on one's plate than a square piece. Serve small portions, and +then, if more be desired, help again. + +In carving large rump steaks or round steaks, cut always across the +grain, in narrow strips. Carving-knives are always sharper than +table-knives, and should do the work of cutting the fibres of the meat; +then the short fibres may easily be separated by one's own knife. There +is a choice in the several muscles of a large rump steak, and it is +quite an art to serve it equally. + + +LEG OF MUTTON OR LAMB, OR KNUCKLE OF VEAL. + +Before cooking, remove the rump-bones at the larger end. For a small +family it is more economical to remove all the bones and fill the cavity +with stuffing. Tie or skewer it into compact shape; there is then less +waste, as the meat that is not used at the first dinner does not become +dry and hard by keeping. + +In serving, the thickest part of the leg should be toward the back of +the platter. Put the fork in at the top, turn the leg toward you to +bring the thickest part up, and cut through to the bone. Cut several +slices of medium thickness, toward the thickest part, then slip the +knife under and cut them away from the bone. A choice bit of crisp fat +may be found on the larger end, and there is a sweet morsel near the +knuckle or lower joint. If more be required, slice from the under side +of the bone in the same manner. + + +LEG OF VENISON. + +This is carved in the same way as a leg of mutton,--through the thickest +part down to the bone. + + +SADDLE OF MUTTON. + +Remove the ends of the ribs and roll the flank under before cooking. + +Place it on the platter with the tail end at the left. Put the fork in +firmly near the centre, and carve down to the ribs in long slices, +parallel with the backbone, and the whole length. Slip the knife under +and separate the slices from the ribs; do the same on the other side of +the back. Divide the slices if very long. Cut the crisp fat from the +sides in slanting slices. Turn partly over and remove the choice bit of +tenderloin and kidney fat under the ribs. + +Carving a saddle of mutton in this way is really cutting with the grain +of the meat, but it is the method adopted by the best authorities. It is +only the choicest quality of mutton, and that which has been kept long +enough to be very tender, that is prepared for cooking in this way. The +fibres are not so tough as those of beef; there is no perceptible +difference in the tenderness of the meat when cut in this manner, and +there is an advantage in obtaining slices which are longer, and yet as +thin as those from cutting across the grain. + + +SADDLE OF VENISON. + +Carve the same as a saddle of mutton. Serve some of the dish gravy with +each portion. Venison and mutton soon become chilled, the fat +particularly, thus losing much of their delicacy. Send them to the table +very hot, on hot platters; carve quickly, and serve at once on warm +plates. + + +HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON. + +This is the leg and loin undivided, or, as more commonly called, the +hind quarter. + +The butcher should split the whirl-bone, disjoint the backbone, and +split the ribs in the flank. The rump-bone and aitch-bone may be removed +before cooking. Place it on the platter with the loin or backbone +nearest the carver. Separate the leg from the loin; this is a difficult +joint to divide when the bones have not been removed, but it can be done +with practice. When the leg has been taken off, carve that as directed +on page 19. Carve the loin by first cutting off the flank and dividing +it, then divide between each rib in the loin, or cut long slices +parallel with the backbone, in the same way as directed for a saddle of +mutton. Some English authorities recommend cutting perpendicularly +through the thickest part of the leg near the knuckle, and then cutting +across at right angles with this first cut, in long thin slices, the +entire length of the joint; the slices are then separated from the bone +and divided as desired. When carved in this way the loin and leg are not +divided. This is not so economical as the first method. + + +LOIN OF MUTTON, LAMB, VEAL, PORK, OR VENISON. + +These should always be divided at the joints in the backbone by the +butcher; then it is an easy matter to separate the ribs, serving one to +each person, with a portion of the kidney and fat if desired. But if the +butcher neglect to do this, and you have no cleaver with which to do it, +it is better to cut slices down to the ribs parallel with the backbone, +as directed in the saddle of mutton, than to suffer the annoyance of +hacking at the joints. + +Before cooking a loin of pork, gash through the fat between the ribs; +this will give more of the crisp fat, and will aid in separating the +ribs. + + +SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR VEAL. + +Place it on the platter with the thickest part up. From the thickest +part cut thin slices, slanting down to the knuckle; then make several +cuts across to the larger end, and remove these slices from the +shoulder-blade. Separate the blade at the shoulder-joint, and remove it. +Cut the meat under the blade in perpendicular slices. + +Any part of the forequarter of mutton is more tender and palatable, and +more easily carved, if before cooking it be boned and stuffed. Or it may +be boned, rolled, and corned. + + +FOREQUARTER OF LAMB OR VEAL. + +This is a difficult joint for a beginner, but after a little study and +practice one may manipulate it with dexterity. Some time when a lamb +stew or fricassee is to be prepared, study the joint carefully and +practice cutting it up, and thus become familiar with the position of +the shoulder-blade joint,--the only one difficult to reach. The backbone +should always be disjointed. The ribs should be divided across the +breast and at the junction of the breast-bone, and the butcher should +also remove the shoulder-blade and the bone in the leg. Unless the joint +be very young and tender, it is better to use the breast portion for a +stew or fricassee; but when nice and tender the breast may be roasted +with the other portions, as the choice gelatinous morsels near the +breast-bones are preferred by many. This joint consists of three +portions,--the shoulder or knuckle, the breast or brisket, and the ribs. +Put it on the platter with the backbone up. Put the fork in near the +knuckle. Cut through the flesh clear round the leg and well up on the +shoulder, but not too far on the breast. With the fork lift the leg away +from the shoulder, cutting in till you come to the joint, after +separating which, remove the leg to a separate dish, to be afterward +cut into thin slices through the thickest part. Cut across from left to +right where the ribs have been broken, separating the gristly breast +from the upper portion. Then remove the blade if it has not been done +before cooking. Divide each of these portions between the ribs, and +serve a piece of the rib, the breast, or a slice from the leg, as +preferred. + + +NECK OF VEAL. + +The vertebra should be disjointed, and the ribs cut on the inside +through the bone only, on the thin end. Place it on the platter with the +back up and cut across from left to right, where the ribs were divided, +separating the small ends of the ribs from the thicker upper portion; +then cut between each short rib. Carve from the back down in slanting +slices, then slip the knife under close to the ribs and remove the +slices. This gives a larger portion than the cutting of the slices +straight would give, and yet not so large as if each were helped to a +whole rib. Serve a short rib with each slice. + + +BREAST OF VEAL. + +Place it on the dish with the breast-bone or brisket nearest you. Cut +off the gristly brisket, then separate it into sections. Cut the upper +part parallel with the ribs, or between each rib if very small. Slice +the sweetbread, and serve a portion of brisket, rib, and sweetbread to +each person. + + +CALF'S HEAD. + +Calf's head served whole is a favorite dish in England, but seldom seen +on American tables. For those who have this preference a few hints about +carving may be desirable. Place it on the platter with the face toward +the right. Cut from left to right, through the middle of the cheek down +to the bone, in several parallel slices of medium thickness; then +separate them from the bone. Cut down at the back of the throat and +slice the throat sweetbread. With the point of the knife cut out the +gelatinous portion near the eye, and serve to those who desire it. There +is a small portion of delicate lean meat to be found after removing the +jawbone. Some are fond of the palate, which lies under the head. The +tongue should be sliced, and a portion of this and of the brains offered +to each person. + + +ROAST PIG. + +This is sometimes partly divided before serving. Cut off the head and +divide it through the middle; then divide through the backbone. Place it +on the platter back to back, with half the head on each end of the dish. + +If the pig be very young, it is in better style to serve it whole. +Before cooking, truss the forelegs forward and the hind legs backward. +Place the pig on the platter with the head at the left. Cut off the +head, separating the neck-joint with the point of the knife, then cut +through the flesh on either side. Take off the shoulders by cutting in a +circle from under the foreleg round nearly to the backbone and down +again. Bend it forward and cut through the joint. Cut off the hams in +the same way. Then split the backbone the entire length and divide +between each rib. Cut slices from the thickest part of the hams and the +shoulders. The ribs are the choice portion, but those who like it at all +consider any part of it a delicacy. + + +HAM. + +If the ham is not to be served whole, the simplest and most economical +way is to begin near the smaller end and cut in very thin slices, on +each side of the bone. Divide the slices and arrange them neatly on the +dish, one lapping over another, with the fat edge outside. + +Where the whole ham is to appear on the table it should be trimmed +neatly, and the end of the bone covered with a paper ruffle. The +thickest part should be on the further side of the platter. Make an +incision through the thickest part, a little way from the smaller end. +Shave off in very thin slices, cutting toward the larger end and down to +the bone at every slice. The knife should be very sharp to make a clean +cut, and each slice should have a portion of the fat with the crisp +crust. To serve it hot a second day, fill the cavity with a bread +stuffing, cover it with buttered crumbs, and brown it in the oven. If it +is to be served cold, brown the crumbs first and then sprinkle them +over the stuffing. If this be done the edges will not dry and the +symmetry of the ham is preserved. Carve as before, toward the larger +end, and if more be needed, cut also from the other side of the bone. + +By filling the cavity again with stuffing, a ham may be served as a +whole one the third time and look as inviting as when first served. +Should there be two or three inches of the thickest end left for another +serving, saw off the bone, lay the meat flesh side up, with the fat on +the further side of the platter, and carve horizontally in thin slices. + + +TONGUE. + +The centre of the tongue is the choicest portion. Cut across in slices +as thin as a wafer. The tip of the tongue is more delicate when cut +lengthwise in thin slices, though this is not the usual practice. + + +CORNED BEEF. + +Corned beef should be put while hot into a pan or mould, in layers of +fat and lean, with the fibres running the long way of the pan. After +pressing it, place it on the platter and slice thinly from one end. This +gives uniform slices, cut across the grain, each one having a fair +proportion of fat and lean. + + +CHARTREUSE, OR PRESSED MEAT. + +Any moulds of meat, either plain or in jelly or rice, should be cut from +one end, or in the middle and toward either end, in uniform slices, the +thickness varying with the kind of meat. Be careful not to break them in +serving. If only a part of a slice be desired, divide it neatly. Help +also to the rice or jelly. + + +TO CUT UP A CHICKEN FOR A STEW OR FRICASSEE. + +Nothing is more unsightly and unappetizing than a portion of chicken +with the bones chopped at all sorts of angles, and with splinters of +bone in the meat. All bones will separate easily at the joint when the +cord or tendon and gristly portion connecting them have been cut. + +After the chicken has been singed and wiped, and the crop removed from +the end of the neck, place it in front of you with the breast up and the +neck at the left. With a small sharp knife make an incision in the thin +skin between the inside of the legs and the body. Cut through the skin +only, down toward the right side of the leg, and then on the left. Bend +the leg over toward you, and you will see where the flesh joins the body +and also where the joint is, for the bone will move in the joint. Cut +through the flesh close to the body, first on the right of the joint and +then on the left, and as you bend the leg over, cut the cord and +gristle in the joint, and this will free the leg from the body. Find the +joint in the leg and divide it neatly. Work the wing until you see where +the joint is, then cut through the flesh on the shoulder, bend the wing +up and cut down through the gristle and cord. Make a straight clean cut, +leaving no jagged edges. Divide the wing in the joint, and then remove +the leg and wing from the opposite side, and divide in the same way. +Make an incision in the skin near the vent, cut through the membrane +lying between the breast and the tail down to the backbone on each side, +remove the entrails, and break off the backbone just below the ribs. +Separate the side-bones from the back by cutting close to the backbone +from one end to the other on each side. This is a little difficult to +do; and in your first experiment it would be better not to divide it +until after boiling it, as it separates more easily after the connecting +gristle has been softened by cooking. Take off the neck close to the +back by cutting through the flesh and twisting or wringing it until the +bone is disjointed. + +Cut off the wish-bone in a slanting direction from the front of the +breast-bone down to the shoulder on each side. Cut through the cartilage +between the end of the collar-bone and the breast. Cut between the end +of the shoulder-blade and the back down toward the wing-joint, turn the +blade over toward the neck, and cut through the joint. + +This joint in the wing, collar-bone, and shoulder-blade is the hardest +to separate. Remove the breast from the back by cutting through the +cartilage connecting the ribs; this can be seen from the inside. The +breast should be left whole and the bone removed after stewing; but if +the chicken is to be fried you may remove the bone first. + +It is not necessary in boiling a chicken to divide it so minutely, for +the wings and legs can be disjointed, and the side-bones and breast +separated from the back more easily after cooking; but it is valuable +practice, and if one learns to do it neatly it will help in carving a +boiled fowl or roast turkey. + +In arranging a fricasseed chicken on the platter, put the neck and ribs +at the left end of the dish and the backbone at the right end. Put the +breast over the ribs, arrange the wings on each side of the breast, the +second joints next to the side-bones, and cross the ends of the +drumsticks over the tail. + + +BOILED FOWL OR TURKEY. + +Fowls or turkeys for boiling should be trussed with the ends of the legs +drawn into the body through a slit in the skin, and kept in place with a +small skewer. Turn the tip of the wing over on the back. Cut off the +neck, not the skin, close to the body, and after putting in the +stuffing, fasten the skin of the neck to the back. Put strips of cloth +round it, or pin it in a cloth, to keep it white and preserve the shape. + +In carving, place it on the platter with the head at the left. Put the +fork in firmly across the breast-bone. With the point of the knife cut +through the skin near the tail, and lift the legs out from the inside. +Then cut through the skin between the legs and body, bend the leg over, +and cut across through the joint. Cut from the top of the shoulder down +toward the body until the wing-joint is exposed, then cut through this, +separating the wing from the body. Remove the leg and wing from the +other side. Shave off a thin slice on the end of the breast toward each +wing-joint, slip the knife under at the top of the breast-bone, and turn +back the wish-bone. + +Capons and large fowls may be sliced thinly across the breast in the +same manner as a roast turkey. But if the fowl be small, draw the knife +along the edge of the breast-bone on each side, and lay the meat away +from the bone; the fillets will separate easily. Then divide the meat +across the grain. Separate the collar-bone from the breast. Slip the +knife under the shoulder-blade, turn it over, and separate at the joint. +Cut through the cartilage connecting the ribs; this will separate the +breast from the back. Now remove the fork from the breast, turn the back +over, place the knife midway, and with the fork lift up the tail end, +separating the back from the body. Place the fork in the middle of the +backbone, cut close to the backbone from one end to the other on each +side, freeing the side-bones. + +The wing and breast of a boiled fowl are the favorite portions. It is +important that the fowl be cooked just right. If underdone, the joints +will not separate readily; and if overdone they will fall apart so +quickly that carving is impossible. Unless the knife be very sharp, and +the work done carefully, the skin of the breast will come off with the +leg or wing. + + +BROILED CHICKEN. + +Split the chicken down the back and remove the backbone. If the chicken +be very young and tender--and only such are suitable for +broiling--remove the breast-bone before cooking, or cut the bone through +the middle, lengthwise and crosswise from the inside, without cutting +into the meat. In serving, divide through the breast from the neck down, +and serve half to each person; or if a smaller portion be desired, +divide each half crosswise through the breast, leaving the wing on one +part and the leg on the other. + +If the chicken be large, break the joints of the legs, thighs, and +wings, without breaking through the skin; cut the tendons on the thighs +from the inside, cut the membrane on the inside of the collar-bone and +wing-joint, and remove the breast-bone. This may all be done before +cooking, and will not injure the appearance of the outside. + +In serving, separate the legs and wings at the joints, then separate the +breast from the lower part, and divide the breast lengthwise and +crosswise. + +Carving-scissors are convenient for cutting any kind of broiled game or +poultry. + + +ROAST TURKEY. + +Turkeys should be carefully trussed. The wings and thighs should be +brought close to the body and kept in position by skewers. The ends of +the drumsticks may be drawn into the body or crossed over the tail and +tied firmly. + +After cooking, free the ends of the drumsticks from the body and trim +them with a paper ruffle. This will enable the carver to touch them if +necessary without soiling his hands. Place the turkey on the platter +with the head at the left. Unless the platter be very large, provide an +extra dish, also a fork for serving. + +Insert the carving-fork across the middle of the breast-bone. Cut +through the skin between the breast and the thigh. Bend the leg over, +and cut off close to the body and through the joint. Cut through the top +of the shoulder down through the wing-joint. Shave off the breast in +thin slices, slanting from the front of the breast-bone down toward the +wing-joint. + +If the family be small and the turkey is to be served for a second +dinner, carve only from the side nearest you. Tip the bird over +slightly, and with the point of the knife remove the oyster and the +small dark portion found on the side-bone. Then remove the fork from the +breast and divide the leg and wing. Cut through the skin between the +body and breast, and with a spoon remove a portion of the stuffing. +Serve light or dark meat and stuffing, as preferred. If carved in this +way, the turkey will be left with one half entire, and if placed on a +clean platter with the cut side nearest the carver, and garnished with +parsley, will present nearly as fine an appearance, to all but the +carver, as when first served. + +When there are many to be served, take off the leg and wing from each +side and slice the whole of the breast before removing the fork; then +divide as required. + +It is not often necessary to cut up the whole body of the turkey; but +where every scrap of the meat will be needed, or you wish to exercise +your skill, proceed to carve in this manner. + +Put the fork in firmly across the middle of the breast-bone. Cut through +the skin between the leg and body. Bend the leg over and cut off at the +joint. If the turkey be very tender or overcooked, the side-bone will +separate from the back and come away with the second joint, making it +more difficult to separate the thigh from the side-bone. Cut through the +top of the shoulder and separate the wing at the joint. Cut off the leg +and wing from the other side. Carve the breast on each side, in thin +slices, slanting slightly toward the wing. Be careful to take a portion +of crisp outside with each slice. Shave off the crisp skin near the +neck, in order to reach the stuffing. Insert the point of the knife at +the front of the breast-bone, turn back the wish-bone and separate it. +Cut through the cartilage on each side, separating the collar-bones from +the breast. Tip the body slightly over and slip the knife under the end +of the shoulder-blade; turn it over toward the wing. Repeat this process +on the opposite side. Cut through the cartilage which divides the ribs, +separating the breast-bone from the back. Lay the breast one side and +remove the fork from it. Take the stuffing from the back. Turn the back +over, place the knife midway just below the ribs, and with the fork lift +up the tail end, separating the back from the body. Place the fork in +the middle of the backbone, and cut close to the backbone from one end +to the other, on each side, freeing the side-bone. Then divide the legs +and wings at the joints. The joint in the leg is not quite in the middle +of the bend, but a trifle nearer the thigh. It requires some practice to +strike these joints in the right spot. Cut off the meat from each side +of the bone in the second joint and leg, as these when large are more +than one person requires, and it is inconvenient to have so large bones +on one's plate. + +It is easier to finish the carving before beginning to serve. An expert +carver will have the whole bird disjointed and literally in pieces with +a very few strokes of the knife. + + +ROAST GOOSE. + +A green goose neatly trussed and "done to a turn" looks very tempting on +the platter; but there is so little meat in proportion to the size of +the bird that unless it be skilfully carved only a small number can be +served. The breast of a goose is broader and flatter than that of a +turkey. It should be carved in a different manner, although many writers +give the same directions for carving both. + +Place it on the platter with the head at the left. Insert the fork +firmly across the ridge of the breast-bone. Begin at the wing and cut +down through the meat to the bone, the whole length of the breast. Cut +down in the same way in parallel slices, as thin as can be cut, until +you come to the ridge of the breast-bone. Slip the knife under the meat +at the end of the breast, and remove the slices from the bone. Cut in +the same manner on the other side of the breast. Cut through the skin +below the breast, insert a spoon and help to the stuffing. If more be +required, cut the wing off at the joint. Then tip the body over slightly +and cut off the leg. This thigh-joint is tougher, and requires more +skill in separating, than the second joint of a turkey. It lies nearer +the backbone. But practice and familiarity with its location will enable +one to strike it accurately. The wish-bone, shoulder-blade, and +collar-bone may be removed according to the directions given for carving +roast turkey. Some prefer to remove the wing and leg before slicing the +breast. + + +ROAST DUCK. + +Place it in the same position and carve in the same way as a goose. + +Begin at the wing, and cut down to the bone in long thin slices, +parallel with the breast-bone; then remove them from the bone. The +breast is the favorite portion; but the "wing of a flyer and the leg of +a swimmer" are esteemed by epicures. + +The stuffing is not often desired, but if so it may be found by cutting +across below the end of the breast. + +Geese and ducks are seldom entirely cut up at the table, as there is +very little meat on the back. But often from a seemingly bare carcass +enough may be obtained to make a savory entre. + + +PIGEONS. + +These, if small, are served whole. If large, cut through the middle from +the neck to the end of the breast and down through the backbone. The +bones are thin, and may easily be divided with a sharp knife. When +smaller portions are required, cut from the shoulder down below the leg, +separating the wing and leg from the body. + + +PARTRIDGES. + +Cut through above the joint of the wing, down below the leg, and remove +the wing and leg in one portion. Cut under the breast from the lower end +through the ribs to the neck and remove the breast entire. Then divide +it through the middle, and, if very plump, divide again. When very small +they may be divided through the breast and back into two equal parts. + + +LARDED GROUSE. + +Turn the legs over and free them from the body. Cut slices down to the +bone the entire length of the breast; then slip the knife under and +remove the slices. Cut off the wing and leg, and separate the backbone +from the body. There are some morsels on the back which are considered +choice by those who like the peculiar flavor of this game. As this is a +dry meat, help generously to the bread sauce which should always +accompany it. + +Where this is the principal dish, or where a larger portion is required, +divide it through the breast, as directed for small pigeons. + +_Woodcock_, _Snipe_, and other _Small Birds_ are usually served +whole. But if only a portion be desired, divide them through the breast. + + +RABBIT. + +A rabbit should be trussed, with the forelegs turned toward the back, +and the hind legs forward. Place it on the platter with the back up and +head at the left. Remove the shoulders by cutting round between them and +the body, carrying the knife up nearly to the backbone. Turn them back +and cut through the joint. Remove the hind legs in the same manner. Then +place the fork in the middle of the back and cut several slices from +each side of the loin parallel with the backbone. The loin is the +choicest part. + + +SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS. + +These are not divided, one being served to each person. + + +FISH. + +A broad silver knife should be used in serving fish. Serve as little of +the bone as possible, and be careful not to break the flakes. + +_Halibut or Salmon_. A middle cut, or thick piece, of halibut or salmon +should be placed on the platter with the skin surface up and the back +toward the farther side of the dish. Carve in thick slices down to the +bone, slip the knife under and remove them. Then remove the bone, and +serve the lower portion in the same manner. + +A thin slice of halibut should be laid on the platter with the flesh +side up. Cut next to the bone on each side, divide the fish as required, +and leave the bone on the platter. + +_Mackerel, White-fish_, etc. These and other thin fish for broiling +should be split down the back before cooking. In serving, divide through +the middle lengthwise, and then divide each half into such portions as +may be desired. Be careful not to break or crumble them. + +_Smelts, Perch_, and other small pan-fish are served whole. They should +be arranged on the dish with heads and tails alternating, or in a circle +round a silver cup placed in the centre of the platter and holding the +sauce. Or, place two or three on a silver skewer, and serve a skewerful +to each person. + +Small slices and rolled fillets of fish are not divided. + + +BAKED FISH. + +_Cod, Haddock, Cusk, Blue-fish, Shad, Small Salmon, and Bass_. +These when served whole may be carved in a more satisfactory manner if +before cooking they are prepared according to the following directions: + +Stuff them and place them upright in the pan instead of on one side. +Fish that are broad and short like shad may be kept in place by propping +with stale bread or pared potatoes; but others that are narrow in +proportion to the length may be skewered or tied into the shape of the +letter S. + +Thread a trussing needle with strong twine, run it through the head and +fasten it there; then bend the head round and draw the needle through +the middle of the body. Bend the tail in the opposite direction, run the +needle through near the tail, draw the string tightly and fasten it. +Gash the skin two inches apart on each side. Fish thus prepared will +retain its shape until served. + +Place it on the platter with the head at the left and the outward curve +on the farther side of the dish. Make an incision along each side of the +backbone the entire length of the fish. Then cut through the gashes on +the side nearest you and lay each portion away from the bone. Then +remove the fish on the farther side of the bone. Raise the bone to +reach the stuffing, and serve a little of the fish, stuffing, and sauce +to each person. The skeleton should be left entire on the platter. + +If the fish has been baked in the usual way and placed on the platter on +its side, cut across through to the backbone, but not through it, and +serve, apportioning as may be desired. Slip the knife under and remove +the portion from the bone. When the fish is all removed from the top, +remove the backbone, and then divide the lower portion. + + +SCALLOPED DISHES, MEAT PIES, ENTRES, ETC. + +Meats and fish which have the sauce on the same dish require special +care in serving, that they may present a neat rather than a sloppy +appearance on the plate. A drop of gravy on the edge of the plate will +offend a fastidious taste. + +_Scalloped Dishes_, or anything with a crust of crumbs, should be served +with a spoon. + +_Meat Pies_, with a pastry crust, require a broad knife and spoon. Put +the portion on the plate neatly, with the crust or browned side up. + +_Poached Eggs, Quails, and other Meats on Toast._ A broad knife should +be used in helping to these dishes. Take up the toast carefully, and lay +it on the plate without displacing the egg or bird. + + +SALADS. + +The most tasteful way of arranging meat-salads or fish-salads is with +whole, fresh, lettuce-leaves. Put two or more leaves together on the +platter, and in the nest or dish thus made lay a spoonful of the salad, +with the Mayonnaise on the top. In serving, slip the spoon or broad +knife under the leaves and keep them in place with the fork. Put the +salad on the plate carefully, in the same position, not tipped over. Or +you may have a border of fresh lettuce-leaves in the salad-dish. With +the fork lay one or two leaves on the plate, and then put a spoonful of +salad on the leaves. In this way each person has the Mayonnaise on the +top; the lettuce is underneath and fresh and crisp, instead of wilted, +as it would be if all of it were mixed with the salad. + + +VEGETABLES. + +In serving vegetables, take up a neat, rounding spoonful. Lay them on +the bottom of the plate, not on the rim or edge. Where there are several +kinds, do not let them touch each other on the plate. + +Serve, on separate dishes, _fritters_ with a sweet sauce, _peas_, +_tomatoes_, or any vegetable with much liquid. + +_Asparagus on Toast_ is a dish that one often sees served very +awkwardly. Use a square or rectangular platter rather than one narrow at +the ends. + +The bread for the toast should be cut long and narrow, rather than +square, and should be laid, not lengthwise, but across the platter. Lay +the asparagus in the same direction, the tips all at the farther side. +Put the knife, which should be broad and long, under the toast, and keep +the asparagus in place with the fork. You will find it much easier to +serve than when arranged in the usual way. + +_Macaroni_ as often prepared is another dish which it is not easy to +serve neatly. Always break or cut it into pieces less than two inches +long, before cooking, or before it is sent to the table. + +In serving _sweet corn_ on the cob, provide finger-bowls, or a small +doily to use in holding the ear of corn. + + +SOUPS. + +One ladleful of soup is sufficient for each plate. It is quite an art to +take up a ladleful and pour it into the soup-plate without dropping any +on the edge of the tureen or plate, and it requires a steady hand to +pass the plate without slopping the soup up on the rim. Dip the ladle +into the soup, take it up, and when the drop has fallen from the bottom +of it, lift it over quickly but empty it slowly. + +Crotons and crackers lose their crispness if put into the tureen with +the soup, and should therefore be passed separately. + + +TEA AND COFFEE. + +Much has been written on the importance of serving neatly the various +drinks for an invalid. But careful service is equally essential at the +daily home table. It is mistaken generosity to fill the cup so full that +when sugar and cream are added, the liquid will spill over into the +saucer. One should never be compelled to clean the bottom of the cup on +the edge of the saucer, or on the napkin, to keep the liquid from +dripping on the cloth. + +In serving tea and coffee, ascertain the tastes of those at the table as +to sugar and cream. Put the cream and sugar in the cup, and an extra +block of sugar in the saucer; pour in the liquid until the cup is three +fourths full. Where there are no servants to wait on the table, this way +makes less confusion than to pass the sugar and cream to each person. + +Always provide a pitcher of boiling hot water and a slop-bowl. In cold +weather, pour hot water into the cups to warm them; then turn it into +the bowl. In serving a second time, rinse the inside of the cup with hot +water before filling. + + +PIES. + +It was formerly considered necessary to divide a pie with mathematical +exactness into quarters or sixths. A better way is to cut out one piece +of the usual size and offer it, and then if less be desired, cut off +such portions as may be needed. + +In serving a pie, always use a fork with the knife. + +Pies with no undercrust are more easily served with a broad knife or a +triangular knife made expressly for pies. For serving berry and juicy +fruit pies, a spoon also may be needed. Where two or three kinds are +served, help to very small portions of each, even if it be at a +Thanksgiving dinner. + +It is presuming on the capacity of the common-sized plate, and it is an +insult to the human stomach, to offer any one three sixths of a pie +after a dinner of the usual courses. + + +PUDDINGS. + +Hot puddings of a soft consistency should be served with a spoon; +sometimes a fork also is needed. With the edge of the spoon cut through +the brown crust in a semicircle, slip the spoon under, and take up a +spoonful; slip it off on the plate, leaving it right side up. + +Take special case to serve temptingly anything with a meringue. + + +MOULDS OF PUDDING, CREAMS, CHARLOTTE RUSSE, ICE-CREAM, ETC. + +Anything stiff enough to be moulded should be cut in slices from three +fourths of an inch to an inch thick; the wider slices in oval-shaped +moulds may be divided through the middle. A broad silver knife with a +raised edge is very convenient to use in serving Bavarian Cream, +Ice-Creams, and Charlottes. + + +FRUIT AND NUTS. + +A pair of grape scissors should be laid on the fruit-dish to use in +dividing large bunches of grapes or raisins; but a nut-cracker is too +suggestive of hotel life to be acceptable on the home table. Crack the +nuts before they are sent to the table. Salt should be served with the +nuts. + +Pass oranges, apples, pears, peaches, and bananas in the fruit-dish, to +allow each person the opportunity of choice. + +_Watermelon_. Before serving, cut a slice from each end. Make incisions +through the middle in the form of the letter V, separate the parts, and +place each in an upright position. Cut through the divisions, and serve +one section to each person. + +Cantaloupes, if small, are sometimes served cut in halves. If large, +divide from end to end in nature's lines of depression. + + +THE THICKNESS OF SLICES. + +By "very thin slices of meat" we mean slices less than an eighth of an +inch thick. + +"Thin slices" are from one eighth of an inch to three sixteenths of an +inch in thickness. + +Slices of "medium thickness" are one quarter of an inch. + +Bread for dinner should be cut in slices one inch and a half thick, and +each slice should be divided across into three or four long pieces, +according to the width of the slice. + +For tea, cut slices three eighths of an inch thick, and for toast, one +quarter of an inch. + +Thick loaves of cake should be cut in slices from three fourths of an +inch to an inch thick, and divided once. Cut loaves of medium thickness +in pieces as broad as the cake is thick, and divide them once. Thin +sheets of cake should be cut in rectangular pieces twice as broad as the +cake is thick. Then divide once, or even twice, if the sheet be very +wide. Layer cakes baked in round pans are usually divided into +triangular pieces; but they are less suggestive of baker's Washington +pie, which is so offensively common, if the edges be trimmed in such a +way as to leave a square. Then cut this square into smaller squares or +rectangles. + + +UTENSILS FOR CARVING AND SERVING. + +In any first-class cutlery store you will find knives for each special +kind of carving. If your purse will permit the indulgence, it will be +convenient to have a breakfast-carver, a slicer, a jointer, a +game-carver, and a pair of game-scissors. But if you can afford to have +only one, you will find a medium-sized meat-carver the knife best +adapted to all varieties of carving. The blade should be about nine +inches long and one inch and a quarter wide, slightly curved, and +tapering to a point. + +The fork should have two slender curving tines about three eighths of an +inch apart and two and a half inches long, and should have a guard. + +A breakfast or steak carver is of the same general shape, but the handle +is smaller, and the blade is six or seven inches long. A slicer for +roasts has a wide, straight blade, twelve inches long, and rounded +instead of pointed at the end. This is especially convenient for carving +thin slices from any large roasts, or other varieties of solid meat. The +width of the blade helps to steady the meat, and its great length +enables one to cut with a single, long, smooth stroke through the entire +surface. With a knife having a short blade a sort of sawing motion would +be made, and the slice would be jagged. As there are no joints to +separate, a point on the blade is unnecessary. + +A jointer is another form of carver, useful where the joints are so +large or so difficult to separate that considerable strength is +required. The handle has a crook or guard on the end to enable the +carver to grasp it more securely and use all the strength necessary. + +A game-carver has a small, narrow, pointed blade; but the shape and +length of the handle is the distinguishing feature. The handle should be +long enough to reach from the tip of the forefinger to an inch beyond +the back side of the hand, so that the edge of the hand about an inch +above the wrist rests against the handle of the carver. In dividing a +difficult joint, the manipulation should be made, not by turning the +hand, but by turning the knife with the fingers. In this way the +position of the point of the blade can be more easily changed as the +joint may require. The handle of the carving-knife supports the hand of +the carver. + +Game-scissors have handles like scissors; the two short blades are quite +deeply curved, something like the blade of a pruning-knife, making the +cutting-power greater. This enables the person using them to cut through +quite large bones in tough joints which would otherwise be quite +difficult to separate. + +Another form of jointer has two blades, one shorter than the other, and +a round handle divided the entire length, with a spring in the end next +the blade. When the handle is closed, the blades are together and the +outer edge of the longer blade is used like a knife for cutting the +meat. By opening the handle the curving edges of the blades are used +like scissors for cutting the bones. + +There are various styles of steels or knife-sharpeners, but the one now +in my possession is the best I have ever seen. + +It is a four-sided bar of steel, about three eighths of an inch wide and +thick, and eight inches long, having the four sides deeply grooved, thus +making the edges very prominent. These edges are so sharp that but +little pressure of the knife on the steel is required. The handle has a +large guard to protect the left hand from the edge of the blade. + +But few people know how to use a steel properly. It is difficult to +describe the process,--so easy to a natural mechanic and so awkward to +others,--or to instruct one in the knack of it, by mere description. +Hold the steel firmly in the left hand. Let the edge of the knife near +the handle rest on the steel, the back of the knife raised slightly at +an angle of about 30. Draw the knife along lightly but steadily, always +at the same angle, the entire length of the blade. Then pass the knife +under the steel and draw the other surface along the opposite edge of +the steel, from the handle to the point, at the same angle. Repeat these +alternate motions the entire length of the blade, not on the point +merely, until you have an edge. + +Some persons prefer to turn the knife over, drawing it first from the +left hand and then toward it, sharpening each surface alternately on the +same edge of the steel. This is more difficult to do, as you cannot so +surely keep the blade at the same angle,--and this is the most important +point. If held at any other than the proper angle, either no edge is +made, or it is taken off as soon as obtained. + +It is bewildering, if one has any intention of buying, to examine the +assortment of spoons, knives, forks, etc., displayed at the +silversmith's. + +There are ladles for soups, sauces, gravy, and cream; shovels for sugar +and salt, and scoops for cheese; tongs for sugar, pickles, olives, and +asparagus; spoons for sugar, jelly, fruit, sauces, salads, vegetables, +and macaroni; slicers for ice-cream, cake, and jelly; knives for fish, +pie, cake, and fruit; forks for fish, oysters, pickles, olives, salad, +and asparagus; scissors for grapes and raisins; crackers and picks for +nuts; and rests for the carving knife and fork. Some of these are really +useful; some as little so as many of the hundred and one novelties +designed particularly for wedding gifts. But in neat and careful serving +it is essential to have a soup-ladle, a gravy or sauce ladle, a pair of +tongs or shells for block sugar, a slender-tined silver fork for +pickles, a plentiful supply of large and medium-sized spoons, a +carving-rest, a crumb-scraper, and at least one broad silver knife and +fork, which if occasion requires may do duty at several courses. + + +LAST BUT NOT LEAST. + +In offering a second portion of anything do not remind one that he has +already been helped. + +"Can't I give you another piece of meat or pie?" "Won't you have some +more tea or pudding?" Expressions like these are frequently heard. + +It is in far better taste to say, "Will you have some hot coffee?" "May +I give you some of the salad?" "Let me help you to this choice portion." + +We trust none of our readers will regard this suggestion as trivial. +For, concerning kindness, we know that perfection is no trifle. It is +the essence of that second commandment which we are divinely told is +like "the first of all the commandments;" and it cannot be attained +without assiduous attention to all the minor words and the common acts +of life. + +"_Among all the Cook-Books this will certainly take its place as one of +the very best_."--THE CHRISTIAN UNION + + + * * * * * + + +MRS. LINCOLN'S + +BOSTON COOK-BOOK. + +WHAT TO DO AND WHAT NOT TO DO IN COOKING. + +BY MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN, + +FIRST PRINCIPAL OF THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL + +NEW REVISED EDITION, including 250 additional recipes. + +_With_ 50 _Illustrations_. 12_mo_. _Cloth_. +600 _pages_. _Price_ $2.00. + + * * * * * + +A SELECTION FROM SOME OF THE MANY NOTICES BY THE PRESS. + +"Mrs. Lincoln, nothing daunted by the legion of cook-books already in +existence, thinks there is room for one more. Her handsome and +serviceable-looking volume seems to contain everything essential to a +complete understanding of the culinary art. The Introduction of +thirty-five pages discusses such subjects as cooking in general, fire, +fuel, management of a stove, the various processes of boiling, stewing, +baking, frying, roasting, and broiling, with full explanation of the +chemical theory underlying each and distinguishing them; also hints on +measuring and mixing, with tables of weights, measures, and proportions; +of time in cooking various articles, and of average cost of material. +One who can learn nothing from this very instructive Introduction must +be well-informed indeed. Following this comes an elaborate and +exhaustive chapter on bread-making in all its steps and phases. To this +important topic some seventy pages are devoted. And so on through the +whole range of viands. Exactness, plainness, thoroughness, seem to +characterize all the author's teachings. No point is neglected, and +directions are given for both necessary and luxurious dishes. There are +chapters on cooking for invalids, the dining-room, care of kitchen +utensils, etc. There is also a valuable outline of study for teachers +taking up the chemical properties of food, and the physiological +functions of digestion, absorption, nutrition, etc. Add the +miscellaneous questions for examination, the topics and illustrations +for lectures on cookery, list of utensils needed in a cooking-school, an +explanation of foreign terms used in cookery, a classified and an +alphabetical index,--and you have what must be considered as complete a +work of its kind as has yet appeared."--_Mirror, Springfield, Ill_. + +"In answer to the question, 'What does cookery mean?' Mr. Ruskin says: +'It means the knowledge of Circe and Medea, and of Calypso and of Helen, +and of Rebekah and of all the Queens of Sheba. It means knowledge of all +fruits and balms and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in +fields and groves, and savory to meals; it means carefulness and +inventiveness, and readiness of appliances; it means the economy of your +great-grandmothers and the science of modern chemistry; it means much +tasting and no wasting; it means English thoroughness, and French art, +and American hospitality.' It is not extravagant to say that as far as +these mythological, biblical, and practical requirements can be met by +one weak woman, they are met by Mrs. Lincoln. And to the varied and +extensive range of knowledge she adds an acquaintance with Milton and +with Confucius, as shown by the apt quotations on her titlepage. The +book is intended to satisfy the needs and wants of the experienced +housekeeper, the tyro, and of the teacher in a cooking-school. In its +receipts, in its tables of time and proportion, in its clear and minute +directions about every detail of kitchen and dining-room, it has left +unanswered few questions which may suggest themselves to the most or the +least intelligent."--_The Nation_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln's 'Boston Cook-Book' is no mere amateur compilation, much +less an _omnium gatherum_ of receipts. Its title does scant justice to +it, for it is not so much a cook-book as a dietetic and culinary +cyclopdia. Mrs. Lincoln is a lady of culture and practical tastes, who +has made the fine art of _cuisine_ the subject of professional study and +teaching. In this book she has shown her literary skill and +intelligence, as well as her expertness as a practical cook and teacher +of cookery. It is full of interest and instruction for any one, though +one should never handle a skillet or know the feeling of dough. Nothing +in the way of explanation is left unsaid. And for a young housekeeper, +it is a complete outfit for the culinary department of her duties and +domain. There are many excellent side-hints as to the nature, history, +and hygiene of food, which are not often found in such books; and the +Indexes are of the completest and most useful kind. We find ourselves +quite enthusiastic over the work, and feel like saying to the +accomplished authoress, 'Many daughters have done virtuously, but thou +excellest them all.'"--_Rev. Dr. Zabriskie, in Christian Intelligencer_. + +"Among all the cook-books, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln's 'Boston Cook-Book' will +certainly take its place as one of the very best. It is published and +arranged in a very convenient and attractive form, and the style in +which it is written has a certain literary quality which will tempt +those who are not interested in recipes and cooking to peruse its pages. +The recipes are practical, and give just those facts which are generally +omitted from books of this sort, to the discouragement of the +housekeeper, and frequently to the lamentable disaster and failure of +her plans. Mrs. Lincoln has laid a large number of people under +obligation, and puts into her book a large amount of general experience +in the difficult and delicate art of cooking. The book is admirably +arranged, and is supplied with the most perfect indexes we have ever +seen in any work of the kind"--_The Christian Union_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln has written a cook-book; really written one, not made +merely a compilation of receipts,--that sort of mechanical work any one +can do who has patience enough to search for the rules, and system +enough to arrange them. Mrs. Lincoln's book is written out of the +experience of life, both as a housekeeper and a teacher. Her long +experience as principal of the Boston Cooking-School has enabled her to +find out just what it is that people most want and need to know. I have +no hesitation in recommending Mrs. Lincoln's as the best cook-book, in +all respects, of any I have seen. It is exactly fitted for use as a +family authority, in that it is the work, not of a theorizer, but of a +woman who knows what she is talking about. It is the very common-sense +of the science of cookery."--_Extracts from Sallie Joy White's letters +in Philadelphia and Portland papers_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln's 'Boston Cook-Book' is a characteristically American, not +to say Yankee, production. Boston productions are nothing if not +profound, and even this cookery manual must begin with a definition, a +pinch of philology, and the culinary chemistry of heat, cold, water, +air, and drying.... But a touch of the blue-stocking has never been +harmful to cookery. This book is as deft as it is fundamental. It is so +perfectly and generously up to everything culinary, that it cannot help +spilling over a little into sciences and philosophy. It is the trimmest, +best arranged, best illustrated, most intelligible, manual of cookery as +a high art, and as an economic art, that has appeared."--_Independent_. + +"It is a pleasure to be able to give a man or a book unqualified praise. +We have no fear in saying that Mrs. Lincoln's work is the best and most +practical cook-book of its kind that has ever appeared. It does not +emanate from the _chef_ of some queen's or nobleman's _cuisine_, but it +tells in the most simple and practical and exact way those little things +which women ought to know, but have generally to learn by sad experience. +It is a book which ought to be in every household."--_Philadelphia Press_. + +"The 'Boston Cook-Book' has a special recommendation. The author, Mrs. +Lincoln, was early trained to a love for all household work. That +precious experience is a thing for which a cooking-school is no manner +of substitute, while it is just the thing for professional training to +build upon, widen, and correct. Mrs. Lincoln's book is practical, and +though there is much of theory, it gives proof of being based less upon +theory and much upon experiment. The book is handsomely gotten up, and +will ere long attest its usefulness in better food better prepared, and +therefore better digested, in many homes."--_Leader_. + +"It is the embodiment of the actual experience and observation of a +woman who has learned and employed superior domestic methods. It is the +outcome of Mrs. Lincoln's conscientious and successful labors for the +development of practical cooking. It is to be recommended for its +usefulness in point of receipts of moderate cost and quantity, in its +variety, its comprehensiveness, and for the excellence of its +typographical form."--_Boston Transcript_. + +"The instruction given by Mrs. Lincoln at the Boston Cooking-School is +so widely and favorably known for its thoroughness and attention to +scientific and economical principles, that a cook-book embodying these +ideas and principles will be considered a great gain to the housekeeping +department. In care and excellence, her book illustrates the modern +advance in home cooking."--_Boston Journal_. + +"The book needs no other _raison d'tre_ than its own excellence. Every +housekeeper in the land would be fortunate to have upon her shelf a copy +of Mrs. Lincoln's work."--_Boston Courier_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln's book contains in one volume what most other cook-books +contain in three; and its directions are always terse and to the point. +It is a thoroughly practical book, and teaches us all how to live well +and wisely every day in the year."--_The Beacon_. + +"The most valuable feature of Mrs. Lincoln's Cook-Book is, without +doubt, the application of scientific knowledge to the culinary art. Mrs. +Lincoln has the gift of teaching, and its use in this connection is +worthy of the warmest commendation. She has made the necessary +explanations in a very lucid and succinct manner. To the thousands of +intelligent housekeepers who recognize the importance of the art of the +kitchen, this book will be a boon."--_Eclectic_. + +"The book, although at first sight it seems no larger than other +cook-books, has over five hundred pages, and takes up the minutest +details of housekeeping. Having examined all the standard cook-books now +in the market, this seems superior to all. There is so much in this that +is not found in other cook-books, that it is equal to a small library in +itself."--_Extracts from Anna Barrow's letters in Oxford and Portland +papers_. + +"We have at last from Boston something better than the Emersonian +philosophy or the learning of Harvard,--something that will contribute +more to human health, and consequently to human happiness; and that is, +a good, practical cook-book, with illustrations.... We commend Mrs. +Lincoln's volume heartily, and wish it might make a part of every bridal +outfit."--_The Churchman_. + +"For plain, practical, and at the same time scientific treatment of a +difficult subject, commend us to Mrs. Lincoln's 'Boston Cook-Book.' No +better book has appeared to keep pace with the wholesome advance of +culinary art, as practiced in the common-sense cooking-school."--_Toledo_. + +"It combines whatever is best in those which have gone before, with +improvements and refinements peculiar to itself. It is so complete and +admirable in its various departments, that it seems to fill every +requirement. How soon it will be rivalled or superseded it is unsafe to +predict; but for the present we may commend it as in every respect +unsurpassed."--_The Dial_. + +"The volume is a compound of information on every household matter; well +arranged, clearly written, and attractively made up. Of the many +valuable cook-books, not one better deserves a place, or is more likely +to secure and hold it."--_Helen Campbell_. + +"The possession of your cook-book has made me quite beside myself. I +prize it highly, not only for personal reasons, but because of its real +worth. I feel so safe with it as a guide, and if I abide by its rules +and laws no harm can befall me."--_Adeline Miller, a former pupil, +Atlanta, Georgia_. + +"One need only glance over the pages of Mrs Lincoln's Cook-Book to +realize the fact of her aptness in scholarship."--_Alta, San Francisco_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln brings not only the fruits of a long experience to the +preparation of her work, but a great amount of scientific research, so +that the book is really a mine of information in its way."--_The Post, +Washington_. + +"It is one of the most interesting treatises on cooking and housework that +we have ever read. It contains much useful information to the general +reader, and is one we would recommend to every housekeeper."--_Saratoga +Sentinel_. + + + * * * * * + + +Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook-Book _is kept on sale by all booksellers +everywhere. If you cannot readily obtain it, enclose the amount, $2.00, +directly to_ MRS. D.A. LINCOLN, Boston, Mass., _or to the Publishers, +who will mail it, postpaid_. + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Carving and Serving, by Mrs. D. A. Lincoln + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARVING AND SERVING *** + +***** This file should be named 15363-8.txt or 15363-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/3/6/15363/ + +Produced by Jason Isbell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Carving and Serving + +Author: Mrs. D. A. Lincoln + +Release Date: March 15, 2005 [EBook #15363] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARVING AND SERVING *** + + + + +Produced by Jason Isbell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. (www.pgdp.net) + + + + + +CARVING AND SERVING + +BY MRS. D.A. LINCOLN +AUTHOR OF "THE BOSTON COOK BOOK" + +BOSTON +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY +1906 + +_Copyright, 1886_, BY MRS. D.A. LINCOLN. + +University Press: +JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS 7 + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS 15 + TIP OF THE SIRLOIN, OR RIB ROAST 15 + SIRLOIN ROAST 16 + THE BACK OF THE RUMP 16 + FILLET OF BEEF OR TENDERLOIN 17 + ROUND OF BEEF, FILLET OF VEAL, OR FRICANDEAU OF VEAL 17 + BEEFSTEAK 18 + LEG OF MUTTON OR LAMB, OR KNUCKLE OF VEAL 19 + LEG OF VENISON 20 + SADDLE OF MUTTON 20 + SADDLE OF VENISON 21 + HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON 21 + LOIN OF MUTTON, LAMB, VEAL, PORK, OR VENISON 22 + SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR VEAL 22 + FOREQUARTER OF LAMB OR VEAL 23 + NECK OF VEAL 24 + BREAST OF VEAL 24 + CALF'S HEAD 25 + ROAST PIG 25 + HAM 26 + TONGUE 27 + CORNED BEEF 27 + CHARTREUSE, OR PRESSED MEAT 28 + TO CUT UP A CHICKEN FOR A STEW OR FRICASSEE 28 + BOILED FOWL OR TURKEY 30 + BROILED CHICKEN 32 + ROAST TURKEY 33 + ROAST GOOSE 35 + ROAST DUCK 36 + PIGEONS 37 + PARTRIDGES 37 + LARDED GROUSE 38 + RABBIT 38 + SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS 39 + FISH 39 + BAKED FISH 40 + SCALLOPED DISHES, MEAT PIES, ENTREES, ETC. 41 + SALADS 42 + VEGETABLES 42 + SOUPS 43 + TEA AND COFFEE 43 + PIES 44 + PUDDINGS 45 + MOULDS OF PUDDING, CREAMS, CHARLOTTE RUSSE, ICE-CREAM, ETC. 45 + FRUIT AND NUTS 46 + THE THICKNESS OF SLICES 47 + UTENSILS FOR CARVING AND SERVING 48 + LAST BUT NOT LEAST 52 + + + + +CARVING AND SERVING. + + + + +GENERAL DIRECTIONS. + + +"Do you teach your pupils how to carve?" + +"Please give us a lecture on carving; my husband says he will come if +you will." + +I have been so frequently addressed in this way that I have decided to +publish a manual on the Art of Carving. Instruction in this art cannot +be given at a lecture with any profit to my pupils or satisfaction to +myself. One cannot learn by simply seeing a person carve a few times. As +much as any other art, it requires study; and success is not attainable +without much practice. There are certain rules which should be +thoroughly understood; if followed faithfully in daily practice, they +will help more than mere observation. + +This manual is not offered as a guide for special occasions, company +dinners, etc., nor for those whose experience renders it unnecessary, or +whose means allow them to employ one skilled in the art. But it is +earnestly hoped that the suggestions here offered will aid those who +desire, at their own table in everyday home life, to acquire that ease +and perfection of manner which, however suddenly it may be confronted +with obstacles, will be equal to every occasion. + +Printed rules for carving are usually accompanied with cuts showing the +position of the joint or fowl on the platter, and having lines +indicating the method of cutting. But this will not be attempted in this +manual, as such illustrations seldom prove helpful; for the actual thing +before us bears faint resemblance to the pictures, which give us only +the surface, with no hint of what may be inside. + +It is comparatively a slight matter to carve a solid mass of lean meat. +It is the bones, tough gristle, and tendons, that interfere with the +easy progress of the knife. To expect any one to carve well without any +conception of the internal structure of what may be placed before him is +as absurd as to expect one to amputate a limb successfully who has no +knowledge of human anatomy. + +Some notion of the relative position of bones, joints, fat, tough and +tender muscles, is the first requisite to good carving. All agree that +skill in carving may be acquired by practice; and so it may. Any one can +divide a joint if he cut and hack at it long enough, and so learn after +a time just where to make the right cut. But a more satisfactory way is +to make a careful study before the material is cooked, and thus learn +the exact position of every joint, bone, and muscle. Become familiar +with a shoulder or a leg of mutton; locate the joints by moving the +bones in the joints, or by cutting it into sections, some time when it +is to be used for a stew. Or remove the bone in the leg by scraping the +meat away at either end. Learn to distinguish the different cuts of +meat. The best way to learn about carving poultry and game is to cut +them up for a stew or fricassee, provided care be taken not to chop +them, but to disjoint them skilfully. + +Then, when you attempt to carve, do the best you can every time. Never +allow yourself to be careless about it, even should the only spectators +be your wife and children. But do not make your first effort in the art +at a company dinner. Every lady should learn the art. There is no reason +why she may not excel in it, as she has every opportunity to study the +joint or fowl before cooking. Strength is not required, so much as +neatness and care. A firm, steady hand, a cool, collected manner, and +confidence in one's ability will help greatly. Children also should be +taught this accomplishment, and should be taught it as soon as they can +handle a knife safely. If parents would allow the children to share +their duties at the daily family table, and occasionally when company is +present, a graceful manner would soon be acquired. When called upon to +preside over their own homes there would less frequently be heard the +apology, "Father always carved at home, and I have had no practice." The +only recollection that I now have of a dinner at a friend's some years +ago is the easy and skilful way a young son of my hostess presided at +the head of the table, while the father occupied the place of guest at +the mother's right hand. + +One must learn first of all to carve neatly, without scattering crumbs +or splashing gravy over the cloth or platter; also to cut straight, +uniform slices. This may seem an easy matter; but do we often see +pressed beef, tongue, or even bread cut as it should be? Be careful to +divide the material in such a manner that each person may be served +equally well. Have you never received all flank, or a hard dry wing, +while another guest had all tenderloin, or the second joint? After a +little experience you can easily distinguish between the choice portions +and the inferior. Lay each portion on the plate with the browned or best +side up. Keep it compact, not mussy; and serve a good portion of meat, +not a bone with hardly any meat on it. After all are served, the portion +on the platter should not be left jagged, rough, and sprawling, but +should look inviting enough to tempt one to desire a second portion. + +Care should be taken to carve in such a way as to get the best effect. A +nice joint is often made less inviting from having been cut with the +grain, while meat of rather poor quality is made more tender and +palatable if divided across the grain. Where the whole of the joint is +not required, learn to carve economically, that it may be left in good +shape for another dinner. + +After you have learned to do the simplest work neatly and gracefully, +much painstaking will be necessary in acquiring the power to accomplish +with elegance the more difficult tasks. For to reach the highest degree +of excellence in the art, one must be able to carve the most difficult +joint with perfect skill and ease. + +But after all this study and a great amount of practice failure often +happens, and blame is laid upon the carver which really belongs to some +other person,--the butcher, the cook, the table-girl, or the guest. Not +all men who sell meat know or practice the best way of cutting up meat. +Much may be done by the butcher and by the cook to facilitate the work +of the carver. These helps will be noticed more particularly under the +head of special dishes. + +An essential aid to easy carving, and one often overlooked, is that the +platter be large enough to hold not merely the joint or fowl while +whole, but also the several portions as they are detached. + +The joint should be placed in the middle of the platter, in the position +indicated under special directions. There should be sufficient space on +either side for the portions of meat as they are carved; that is, space +on the bottom, none of the slices being allowed to hang over the edge of +the dish. If necessary, provide an extra dish. The persistency with +which some housekeepers cling to a small dish for fear the meat will +look lost on a larger one often makes successful carving impossible. + +The platter should be placed near the carver, that he may easily reach +any part of the joint. + +The cook should see that all skewers, strings, etc., be removed before +sending the meat or fish to the table. It is extremely awkward to find +one's knife impeded by a bit of twine. + +The carver may stand or sit, as suits his convenience. Anything that is +done easily is generally done gracefully, but when one works at a +disadvantage awkwardness is always the result. + +A very important matter is the condition of the knife. It should have a +handle easy to grasp, a long, thin, sharp, pointed blade, and be of a +size adapted to the article to be carved and to the person using it. A +lady or a child will prefer a small knife. Be as particular to have the +knife sharp as to have it bright and clean; and always sharpen it before +announcing the dinner. It is very annoying for a person to be obliged to +wait and sharpen the knife, or to turn the meat round to get it into the +right position. Never allow a carving-knife to be used to cut bread, or +for any other than its legitimate purpose. + +The fork should be strong, with long tines, and should have a guard. + +Place the fork deep enough in the meat so that you can hold it firmly in +position. Hold the knife and fork in an easy, natural way. Many persons +grasp the fork as if it were a dagger, and stab it into the meat; but +such a display of force is unnecessary and clownish. The hand should be +over the handle of the fork, the palm down, and the forefinger extended. + +Do not appear to make hard work of carving. Avoid all scowling or +contortion of the mouth if a difficult spot be touched. Don't let your +countenance betray the toughness of the joint or your own lack of skill. +Work slowly but skilfully, and thus avoid the danger of landing the +joint in your neighbor's lap. + +Do not be guilty of the discourtesy of asking each guest, before you +begin to carve, to choose between roast lamb and warmed-over beef, or +between pie and pudding, or whatever you may have, and thus cause a +guest who may have chosen the lamb or the pie the discomfort of knowing +that it has been cut solely for her. Such economy may be excusable in +the privacy of one's own family, but not in the presence of invited +guests. First divide or carve what you have to serve, and then offer the +choice to your guests. + +"To carve and serve decently and in good order" is indeed mainly the +duty of the host; but there is sometimes an unfortunate lack of skill on +the part of the hostess in her share of the serving. A certain pride is +permitted to her, and is expected of her, in serving neatly her tea, +coffee, and soup, in dividing appropriately her pies and puddings, and +even in cutting and arranging deftly the bread upon her board. + +A word to the guest, and then we will proceed to explicit directions. + +Never stare at the carver. Remember you are invited to dine, not to take +a lesson in carving. Appear perfectly unconscious of his efforts; a +glance now and then will give you sufficient insight into his method. +There often seems to be an irresistible fascination about carving which +silences all tongues and draws all eyes to the head of the table. The +most skilful carver will sometimes fail if conscious of being watched. +With a little tact the hostess can easily engage the attention of her +guests, that the carver may not be annoyed. + +Should your preference be asked, and you have any, name it at once, +provided there is also enough for others who may prefer the same kind. +Remember there are only two fillets, or side-bones, or second joints; if +you are the first to be served, do not test the skill of the carver by +preferring a portion difficult to obtain. + +Many of these cautions may seem uncalled for, but they have been +suggested by personal observation of their necessity. People of good +breeding would never err in any of these ways; but alas, not all people +are well bred, and innate selfishness often crops out in small matters. + +The following explicit directions have not been taken from books. They +were given to the writer a few years ago by one who was an adept in the +art, who had received her instruction from a skilful surgeon, and who at +her own table gave a practical demonstration of the fact that a lady can +not only "carve decently and in good order," but with ease and elegance. + + + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS. + + +TIP OF THE SIRLOIN, OR RIB ROAST. + +It is easier to carve this joint by cutting across the ribs, parallel +with the backbone, but that is cutting with the grain; and meat, +especially beef, seems more tender if cut across the grain. + +Place it on the platter with the backbone at the right. If the backbones +be not removed before cooking, place the fork in the middle and cut +close to the backbone down to the ribs. Shave off the thick, gristly +cord near the backbone, as this, if left on, interferes with cutting +thin slices. Then cut, from the side nearest you, thin uniform slices +parallel with the ribs. Run the knife under and separate them from the +bone. Many prefer to remove the bone and skewer the meat into a roll +before cooking. It may then be laid, flesh down, on the dish, and carved +across the top horizontally in thin slices; or if you find it easier, +place it with the skin surface up, and carve down from the flesh side +nearest you. + +This style of serving is generally preferred, but there are advantages +in retaining the bone; for the thin end when rolled under is not cooked +to such a nice degree of crispness, and the slices are usually larger +than desired. Again, the ribs, by keeping the meat in position, secure +for it a clean cut, and not one broken and jagged, and the thin end may +be served or not, as you please. + + +SIRLOIN ROAST. + +The backbone or thickest end should be at the right end of the dish. + +Carve a sirloin roast by cutting several thin slices parallel with the +ribs. Then cut down across the ribs near the backbone, and also at the +flank end, and separate the slices. + +The slices should be as thin as possible and yet remain slices, not +shavings. Turn the meat over and cut out the tenderloin and slice it in +the same manner across the grain; or turn the meat over and remove the +tenderloin first. Many prefer to leave the tenderloin to be served cold. +Cut slices of the crisp fat on the flank in the same way, and serve to +those who wish it. This is a part which many dislike, but some persons +consider it very choice. Always offer it unless you know the tastes of +those whom you are serving. + + +THE BACK OF THE RUMP. + +A roast from the back of the rump, if cooked without removing the bone, +should be placed on the platter with the backbone on the farther side. +Cut first underneath to loosen the meat from the bone. Then, if the +family be large and all the meat is to be used, the slices may be cut +lengthwise; but should only a small quantity be needed, cut crosswise +and only from the small end. It is then in better shape for the second +day. + +It is more economical to serve the poorer parts the first day, as they +are never better than when hot and freshly cooked. Reserve the more +tender meat to be served cold. + + +FILLET OF BEEF OR TENDERLOIN. + +Before cooking, remove all the fat, and every fibre of the tough white +membrane. Press it into shape again and lard it, or cover it with its +own fat. If this fibre be not removed, the sharpest knife will fail to +cut through it. Place it on the platter with the larger end at the +right; or if two short fillets be used, place the thickest ends in the +middle. Carve from the thickest part, in thin, uniform slices. + + +ROUND OF BEEF, FILLET OF VEAL, OR FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +These are placed on the platter, flesh side up, and carved in horizontal +slices, care being taken to carve evenly, so that the portion remaining +may be in good shape. As the whole of the browned outside comes off with +the first slices, divide this into small pieces, to be served if desired +with the rare, juicy, inside slices. + + +BEEFSTEAK. + +It may seem needless to direct one how to carve a sirloin steak, but it +sometimes appears to require more skill than to carve poultry, as those +who have been so unfortunate as to receive only the flank can testify. + +I believe most strongly, as a matter of economy, in removing the bone, +and any tough membrane or gristle that will not be eaten, before cooking +the steak. If there be a large portion of the flank, cook that in some +other way. With a small, sharp knife cut close to the rib on each side, +round the backbone, and remove the tough white membrane on the edge of +the tenderloin. Leave the fat on the upper edge, and the kidney fat +also, or a part of it, if it be very thick. There need be no waste or +escape of juices if the cutting be done quickly, neatly, and just before +cooking. Press the tenderloin--that is, the small portion on the under +side of the bone--close to the upper part, that the shape may not be +changed. + +In serving place it on the dish with the tenderloin next to the carver. +Cut in long narrow strips from the fat edge down through the tenderloin. +Give each person a bit of tenderloin, upper part, and fat. If the bone +be not removed before cooking, remove the tenderloin first by cutting +close to the bone, and divide it into narrow pieces; then remove the +meat from the upper side of the bone and cut in the same manner. A long, +narrow strip about as wide as the steak is thick is much more easily +managed on one's plate than a square piece. Serve small portions, and +then, if more be desired, help again. + +In carving large rump steaks or round steaks, cut always across the +grain, in narrow strips. Carving-knives are always sharper than +table-knives, and should do the work of cutting the fibres of the meat; +then the short fibres may easily be separated by one's own knife. There +is a choice in the several muscles of a large rump steak, and it is +quite an art to serve it equally. + + +LEG OF MUTTON OR LAMB, OR KNUCKLE OF VEAL. + +Before cooking, remove the rump-bones at the larger end. For a small +family it is more economical to remove all the bones and fill the cavity +with stuffing. Tie or skewer it into compact shape; there is then less +waste, as the meat that is not used at the first dinner does not become +dry and hard by keeping. + +In serving, the thickest part of the leg should be toward the back of +the platter. Put the fork in at the top, turn the leg toward you to +bring the thickest part up, and cut through to the bone. Cut several +slices of medium thickness, toward the thickest part, then slip the +knife under and cut them away from the bone. A choice bit of crisp fat +may be found on the larger end, and there is a sweet morsel near the +knuckle or lower joint. If more be required, slice from the under side +of the bone in the same manner. + + +LEG OF VENISON. + +This is carved in the same way as a leg of mutton,--through the thickest +part down to the bone. + + +SADDLE OF MUTTON. + +Remove the ends of the ribs and roll the flank under before cooking. + +Place it on the platter with the tail end at the left. Put the fork in +firmly near the centre, and carve down to the ribs in long slices, +parallel with the backbone, and the whole length. Slip the knife under +and separate the slices from the ribs; do the same on the other side of +the back. Divide the slices if very long. Cut the crisp fat from the +sides in slanting slices. Turn partly over and remove the choice bit of +tenderloin and kidney fat under the ribs. + +Carving a saddle of mutton in this way is really cutting with the grain +of the meat, but it is the method adopted by the best authorities. It is +only the choicest quality of mutton, and that which has been kept long +enough to be very tender, that is prepared for cooking in this way. The +fibres are not so tough as those of beef; there is no perceptible +difference in the tenderness of the meat when cut in this manner, and +there is an advantage in obtaining slices which are longer, and yet as +thin as those from cutting across the grain. + + +SADDLE OF VENISON. + +Carve the same as a saddle of mutton. Serve some of the dish gravy with +each portion. Venison and mutton soon become chilled, the fat +particularly, thus losing much of their delicacy. Send them to the table +very hot, on hot platters; carve quickly, and serve at once on warm +plates. + + +HAUNCH OF VENISON OR MUTTON. + +This is the leg and loin undivided, or, as more commonly called, the +hind quarter. + +The butcher should split the whirl-bone, disjoint the backbone, and +split the ribs in the flank. The rump-bone and aitch-bone may be removed +before cooking. Place it on the platter with the loin or backbone +nearest the carver. Separate the leg from the loin; this is a difficult +joint to divide when the bones have not been removed, but it can be done +with practice. When the leg has been taken off, carve that as directed +on page 19. Carve the loin by first cutting off the flank and dividing +it, then divide between each rib in the loin, or cut long slices +parallel with the backbone, in the same way as directed for a saddle of +mutton. Some English authorities recommend cutting perpendicularly +through the thickest part of the leg near the knuckle, and then cutting +across at right angles with this first cut, in long thin slices, the +entire length of the joint; the slices are then separated from the bone +and divided as desired. When carved in this way the loin and leg are not +divided. This is not so economical as the first method. + + +LOIN OF MUTTON, LAMB, VEAL, PORK, OR VENISON. + +These should always be divided at the joints in the backbone by the +butcher; then it is an easy matter to separate the ribs, serving one to +each person, with a portion of the kidney and fat if desired. But if the +butcher neglect to do this, and you have no cleaver with which to do it, +it is better to cut slices down to the ribs parallel with the backbone, +as directed in the saddle of mutton, than to suffer the annoyance of +hacking at the joints. + +Before cooking a loin of pork, gash through the fat between the ribs; +this will give more of the crisp fat, and will aid in separating the +ribs. + + +SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR VEAL. + +Place it on the platter with the thickest part up. From the thickest +part cut thin slices, slanting down to the knuckle; then make several +cuts across to the larger end, and remove these slices from the +shoulder-blade. Separate the blade at the shoulder-joint, and remove it. +Cut the meat under the blade in perpendicular slices. + +Any part of the forequarter of mutton is more tender and palatable, and +more easily carved, if before cooking it be boned and stuffed. Or it may +be boned, rolled, and corned. + + +FOREQUARTER OF LAMB OR VEAL. + +This is a difficult joint for a beginner, but after a little study and +practice one may manipulate it with dexterity. Some time when a lamb +stew or fricassee is to be prepared, study the joint carefully and +practice cutting it up, and thus become familiar with the position of +the shoulder-blade joint,--the only one difficult to reach. The backbone +should always be disjointed. The ribs should be divided across the +breast and at the junction of the breast-bone, and the butcher should +also remove the shoulder-blade and the bone in the leg. Unless the joint +be very young and tender, it is better to use the breast portion for a +stew or fricassee; but when nice and tender the breast may be roasted +with the other portions, as the choice gelatinous morsels near the +breast-bones are preferred by many. This joint consists of three +portions,--the shoulder or knuckle, the breast or brisket, and the ribs. +Put it on the platter with the backbone up. Put the fork in near the +knuckle. Cut through the flesh clear round the leg and well up on the +shoulder, but not too far on the breast. With the fork lift the leg away +from the shoulder, cutting in till you come to the joint, after +separating which, remove the leg to a separate dish, to be afterward +cut into thin slices through the thickest part. Cut across from left to +right where the ribs have been broken, separating the gristly breast +from the upper portion. Then remove the blade if it has not been done +before cooking. Divide each of these portions between the ribs, and +serve a piece of the rib, the breast, or a slice from the leg, as +preferred. + + +NECK OF VEAL. + +The vertebra should be disjointed, and the ribs cut on the inside +through the bone only, on the thin end. Place it on the platter with the +back up and cut across from left to right, where the ribs were divided, +separating the small ends of the ribs from the thicker upper portion; +then cut between each short rib. Carve from the back down in slanting +slices, then slip the knife under close to the ribs and remove the +slices. This gives a larger portion than the cutting of the slices +straight would give, and yet not so large as if each were helped to a +whole rib. Serve a short rib with each slice. + + +BREAST OF VEAL. + +Place it on the dish with the breast-bone or brisket nearest you. Cut +off the gristly brisket, then separate it into sections. Cut the upper +part parallel with the ribs, or between each rib if very small. Slice +the sweetbread, and serve a portion of brisket, rib, and sweetbread to +each person. + + +CALF'S HEAD. + +Calf's head served whole is a favorite dish in England, but seldom seen +on American tables. For those who have this preference a few hints about +carving may be desirable. Place it on the platter with the face toward +the right. Cut from left to right, through the middle of the cheek down +to the bone, in several parallel slices of medium thickness; then +separate them from the bone. Cut down at the back of the throat and +slice the throat sweetbread. With the point of the knife cut out the +gelatinous portion near the eye, and serve to those who desire it. There +is a small portion of delicate lean meat to be found after removing the +jawbone. Some are fond of the palate, which lies under the head. The +tongue should be sliced, and a portion of this and of the brains offered +to each person. + + +ROAST PIG. + +This is sometimes partly divided before serving. Cut off the head and +divide it through the middle; then divide through the backbone. Place it +on the platter back to back, with half the head on each end of the dish. + +If the pig be very young, it is in better style to serve it whole. +Before cooking, truss the forelegs forward and the hind legs backward. +Place the pig on the platter with the head at the left. Cut off the +head, separating the neck-joint with the point of the knife, then cut +through the flesh on either side. Take off the shoulders by cutting in a +circle from under the foreleg round nearly to the backbone and down +again. Bend it forward and cut through the joint. Cut off the hams in +the same way. Then split the backbone the entire length and divide +between each rib. Cut slices from the thickest part of the hams and the +shoulders. The ribs are the choice portion, but those who like it at all +consider any part of it a delicacy. + + +HAM. + +If the ham is not to be served whole, the simplest and most economical +way is to begin near the smaller end and cut in very thin slices, on +each side of the bone. Divide the slices and arrange them neatly on the +dish, one lapping over another, with the fat edge outside. + +Where the whole ham is to appear on the table it should be trimmed +neatly, and the end of the bone covered with a paper ruffle. The +thickest part should be on the further side of the platter. Make an +incision through the thickest part, a little way from the smaller end. +Shave off in very thin slices, cutting toward the larger end and down to +the bone at every slice. The knife should be very sharp to make a clean +cut, and each slice should have a portion of the fat with the crisp +crust. To serve it hot a second day, fill the cavity with a bread +stuffing, cover it with buttered crumbs, and brown it in the oven. If it +is to be served cold, brown the crumbs first and then sprinkle them +over the stuffing. If this be done the edges will not dry and the +symmetry of the ham is preserved. Carve as before, toward the larger +end, and if more be needed, cut also from the other side of the bone. + +By filling the cavity again with stuffing, a ham may be served as a +whole one the third time and look as inviting as when first served. +Should there be two or three inches of the thickest end left for another +serving, saw off the bone, lay the meat flesh side up, with the fat on +the further side of the platter, and carve horizontally in thin slices. + + +TONGUE. + +The centre of the tongue is the choicest portion. Cut across in slices +as thin as a wafer. The tip of the tongue is more delicate when cut +lengthwise in thin slices, though this is not the usual practice. + + +CORNED BEEF. + +Corned beef should be put while hot into a pan or mould, in layers of +fat and lean, with the fibres running the long way of the pan. After +pressing it, place it on the platter and slice thinly from one end. This +gives uniform slices, cut across the grain, each one having a fair +proportion of fat and lean. + + +CHARTREUSE, OR PRESSED MEAT. + +Any moulds of meat, either plain or in jelly or rice, should be cut from +one end, or in the middle and toward either end, in uniform slices, the +thickness varying with the kind of meat. Be careful not to break them in +serving. If only a part of a slice be desired, divide it neatly. Help +also to the rice or jelly. + + +TO CUT UP A CHICKEN FOR A STEW OR FRICASSEE. + +Nothing is more unsightly and unappetizing than a portion of chicken +with the bones chopped at all sorts of angles, and with splinters of +bone in the meat. All bones will separate easily at the joint when the +cord or tendon and gristly portion connecting them have been cut. + +After the chicken has been singed and wiped, and the crop removed from +the end of the neck, place it in front of you with the breast up and the +neck at the left. With a small sharp knife make an incision in the thin +skin between the inside of the legs and the body. Cut through the skin +only, down toward the right side of the leg, and then on the left. Bend +the leg over toward you, and you will see where the flesh joins the body +and also where the joint is, for the bone will move in the joint. Cut +through the flesh close to the body, first on the right of the joint and +then on the left, and as you bend the leg over, cut the cord and +gristle in the joint, and this will free the leg from the body. Find the +joint in the leg and divide it neatly. Work the wing until you see where +the joint is, then cut through the flesh on the shoulder, bend the wing +up and cut down through the gristle and cord. Make a straight clean cut, +leaving no jagged edges. Divide the wing in the joint, and then remove +the leg and wing from the opposite side, and divide in the same way. +Make an incision in the skin near the vent, cut through the membrane +lying between the breast and the tail down to the backbone on each side, +remove the entrails, and break off the backbone just below the ribs. +Separate the side-bones from the back by cutting close to the backbone +from one end to the other on each side. This is a little difficult to +do; and in your first experiment it would be better not to divide it +until after boiling it, as it separates more easily after the connecting +gristle has been softened by cooking. Take off the neck close to the +back by cutting through the flesh and twisting or wringing it until the +bone is disjointed. + +Cut off the wish-bone in a slanting direction from the front of the +breast-bone down to the shoulder on each side. Cut through the cartilage +between the end of the collar-bone and the breast. Cut between the end +of the shoulder-blade and the back down toward the wing-joint, turn the +blade over toward the neck, and cut through the joint. + +This joint in the wing, collar-bone, and shoulder-blade is the hardest +to separate. Remove the breast from the back by cutting through the +cartilage connecting the ribs; this can be seen from the inside. The +breast should be left whole and the bone removed after stewing; but if +the chicken is to be fried you may remove the bone first. + +It is not necessary in boiling a chicken to divide it so minutely, for +the wings and legs can be disjointed, and the side-bones and breast +separated from the back more easily after cooking; but it is valuable +practice, and if one learns to do it neatly it will help in carving a +boiled fowl or roast turkey. + +In arranging a fricasseed chicken on the platter, put the neck and ribs +at the left end of the dish and the backbone at the right end. Put the +breast over the ribs, arrange the wings on each side of the breast, the +second joints next to the side-bones, and cross the ends of the +drumsticks over the tail. + + +BOILED FOWL OR TURKEY. + +Fowls or turkeys for boiling should be trussed with the ends of the legs +drawn into the body through a slit in the skin, and kept in place with a +small skewer. Turn the tip of the wing over on the back. Cut off the +neck, not the skin, close to the body, and after putting in the +stuffing, fasten the skin of the neck to the back. Put strips of cloth +round it, or pin it in a cloth, to keep it white and preserve the shape. + +In carving, place it on the platter with the head at the left. Put the +fork in firmly across the breast-bone. With the point of the knife cut +through the skin near the tail, and lift the legs out from the inside. +Then cut through the skin between the legs and body, bend the leg over, +and cut across through the joint. Cut from the top of the shoulder down +toward the body until the wing-joint is exposed, then cut through this, +separating the wing from the body. Remove the leg and wing from the +other side. Shave off a thin slice on the end of the breast toward each +wing-joint, slip the knife under at the top of the breast-bone, and turn +back the wish-bone. + +Capons and large fowls may be sliced thinly across the breast in the +same manner as a roast turkey. But if the fowl be small, draw the knife +along the edge of the breast-bone on each side, and lay the meat away +from the bone; the fillets will separate easily. Then divide the meat +across the grain. Separate the collar-bone from the breast. Slip the +knife under the shoulder-blade, turn it over, and separate at the joint. +Cut through the cartilage connecting the ribs; this will separate the +breast from the back. Now remove the fork from the breast, turn the back +over, place the knife midway, and with the fork lift up the tail end, +separating the back from the body. Place the fork in the middle of the +backbone, cut close to the backbone from one end to the other on each +side, freeing the side-bones. + +The wing and breast of a boiled fowl are the favorite portions. It is +important that the fowl be cooked just right. If underdone, the joints +will not separate readily; and if overdone they will fall apart so +quickly that carving is impossible. Unless the knife be very sharp, and +the work done carefully, the skin of the breast will come off with the +leg or wing. + + +BROILED CHICKEN. + +Split the chicken down the back and remove the backbone. If the chicken +be very young and tender--and only such are suitable for +broiling--remove the breast-bone before cooking, or cut the bone through +the middle, lengthwise and crosswise from the inside, without cutting +into the meat. In serving, divide through the breast from the neck down, +and serve half to each person; or if a smaller portion be desired, +divide each half crosswise through the breast, leaving the wing on one +part and the leg on the other. + +If the chicken be large, break the joints of the legs, thighs, and +wings, without breaking through the skin; cut the tendons on the thighs +from the inside, cut the membrane on the inside of the collar-bone and +wing-joint, and remove the breast-bone. This may all be done before +cooking, and will not injure the appearance of the outside. + +In serving, separate the legs and wings at the joints, then separate the +breast from the lower part, and divide the breast lengthwise and +crosswise. + +Carving-scissors are convenient for cutting any kind of broiled game or +poultry. + + +ROAST TURKEY. + +Turkeys should be carefully trussed. The wings and thighs should be +brought close to the body and kept in position by skewers. The ends of +the drumsticks may be drawn into the body or crossed over the tail and +tied firmly. + +After cooking, free the ends of the drumsticks from the body and trim +them with a paper ruffle. This will enable the carver to touch them if +necessary without soiling his hands. Place the turkey on the platter +with the head at the left. Unless the platter be very large, provide an +extra dish, also a fork for serving. + +Insert the carving-fork across the middle of the breast-bone. Cut +through the skin between the breast and the thigh. Bend the leg over, +and cut off close to the body and through the joint. Cut through the top +of the shoulder down through the wing-joint. Shave off the breast in +thin slices, slanting from the front of the breast-bone down toward the +wing-joint. + +If the family be small and the turkey is to be served for a second +dinner, carve only from the side nearest you. Tip the bird over +slightly, and with the point of the knife remove the oyster and the +small dark portion found on the side-bone. Then remove the fork from the +breast and divide the leg and wing. Cut through the skin between the +body and breast, and with a spoon remove a portion of the stuffing. +Serve light or dark meat and stuffing, as preferred. If carved in this +way, the turkey will be left with one half entire, and if placed on a +clean platter with the cut side nearest the carver, and garnished with +parsley, will present nearly as fine an appearance, to all but the +carver, as when first served. + +When there are many to be served, take off the leg and wing from each +side and slice the whole of the breast before removing the fork; then +divide as required. + +It is not often necessary to cut up the whole body of the turkey; but +where every scrap of the meat will be needed, or you wish to exercise +your skill, proceed to carve in this manner. + +Put the fork in firmly across the middle of the breast-bone. Cut through +the skin between the leg and body. Bend the leg over and cut off at the +joint. If the turkey be very tender or overcooked, the side-bone will +separate from the back and come away with the second joint, making it +more difficult to separate the thigh from the side-bone. Cut through the +top of the shoulder and separate the wing at the joint. Cut off the leg +and wing from the other side. Carve the breast on each side, in thin +slices, slanting slightly toward the wing. Be careful to take a portion +of crisp outside with each slice. Shave off the crisp skin near the +neck, in order to reach the stuffing. Insert the point of the knife at +the front of the breast-bone, turn back the wish-bone and separate it. +Cut through the cartilage on each side, separating the collar-bones from +the breast. Tip the body slightly over and slip the knife under the end +of the shoulder-blade; turn it over toward the wing. Repeat this process +on the opposite side. Cut through the cartilage which divides the ribs, +separating the breast-bone from the back. Lay the breast one side and +remove the fork from it. Take the stuffing from the back. Turn the back +over, place the knife midway just below the ribs, and with the fork lift +up the tail end, separating the back from the body. Place the fork in +the middle of the backbone, and cut close to the backbone from one end +to the other, on each side, freeing the side-bone. Then divide the legs +and wings at the joints. The joint in the leg is not quite in the middle +of the bend, but a trifle nearer the thigh. It requires some practice to +strike these joints in the right spot. Cut off the meat from each side +of the bone in the second joint and leg, as these when large are more +than one person requires, and it is inconvenient to have so large bones +on one's plate. + +It is easier to finish the carving before beginning to serve. An expert +carver will have the whole bird disjointed and literally in pieces with +a very few strokes of the knife. + + +ROAST GOOSE. + +A green goose neatly trussed and "done to a turn" looks very tempting on +the platter; but there is so little meat in proportion to the size of +the bird that unless it be skilfully carved only a small number can be +served. The breast of a goose is broader and flatter than that of a +turkey. It should be carved in a different manner, although many writers +give the same directions for carving both. + +Place it on the platter with the head at the left. Insert the fork +firmly across the ridge of the breast-bone. Begin at the wing and cut +down through the meat to the bone, the whole length of the breast. Cut +down in the same way in parallel slices, as thin as can be cut, until +you come to the ridge of the breast-bone. Slip the knife under the meat +at the end of the breast, and remove the slices from the bone. Cut in +the same manner on the other side of the breast. Cut through the skin +below the breast, insert a spoon and help to the stuffing. If more be +required, cut the wing off at the joint. Then tip the body over slightly +and cut off the leg. This thigh-joint is tougher, and requires more +skill in separating, than the second joint of a turkey. It lies nearer +the backbone. But practice and familiarity with its location will enable +one to strike it accurately. The wish-bone, shoulder-blade, and +collar-bone may be removed according to the directions given for carving +roast turkey. Some prefer to remove the wing and leg before slicing the +breast. + + +ROAST DUCK. + +Place it in the same position and carve in the same way as a goose. + +Begin at the wing, and cut down to the bone in long thin slices, +parallel with the breast-bone; then remove them from the bone. The +breast is the favorite portion; but the "wing of a flyer and the leg of +a swimmer" are esteemed by epicures. + +The stuffing is not often desired, but if so it may be found by cutting +across below the end of the breast. + +Geese and ducks are seldom entirely cut up at the table, as there is +very little meat on the back. But often from a seemingly bare carcass +enough may be obtained to make a savory entree. + + +PIGEONS. + +These, if small, are served whole. If large, cut through the middle from +the neck to the end of the breast and down through the backbone. The +bones are thin, and may easily be divided with a sharp knife. When +smaller portions are required, cut from the shoulder down below the leg, +separating the wing and leg from the body. + + +PARTRIDGES. + +Cut through above the joint of the wing, down below the leg, and remove +the wing and leg in one portion. Cut under the breast from the lower end +through the ribs to the neck and remove the breast entire. Then divide +it through the middle, and, if very plump, divide again. When very small +they may be divided through the breast and back into two equal parts. + + +LARDED GROUSE. + +Turn the legs over and free them from the body. Cut slices down to the +bone the entire length of the breast; then slip the knife under and +remove the slices. Cut off the wing and leg, and separate the backbone +from the body. There are some morsels on the back which are considered +choice by those who like the peculiar flavor of this game. As this is a +dry meat, help generously to the bread sauce which should always +accompany it. + +Where this is the principal dish, or where a larger portion is required, +divide it through the breast, as directed for small pigeons. + +_Woodcock_, _Snipe_, and other _Small Birds_ are usually served +whole. But if only a portion be desired, divide them through the breast. + + +RABBIT. + +A rabbit should be trussed, with the forelegs turned toward the back, +and the hind legs forward. Place it on the platter with the back up and +head at the left. Remove the shoulders by cutting round between them and +the body, carrying the knife up nearly to the backbone. Turn them back +and cut through the joint. Remove the hind legs in the same manner. Then +place the fork in the middle of the back and cut several slices from +each side of the loin parallel with the backbone. The loin is the +choicest part. + + +SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS. + +These are not divided, one being served to each person. + + +FISH. + +A broad silver knife should be used in serving fish. Serve as little of +the bone as possible, and be careful not to break the flakes. + +_Halibut or Salmon_. A middle cut, or thick piece, of halibut or salmon +should be placed on the platter with the skin surface up and the back +toward the farther side of the dish. Carve in thick slices down to the +bone, slip the knife under and remove them. Then remove the bone, and +serve the lower portion in the same manner. + +A thin slice of halibut should be laid on the platter with the flesh +side up. Cut next to the bone on each side, divide the fish as required, +and leave the bone on the platter. + +_Mackerel, White-fish_, etc. These and other thin fish for broiling +should be split down the back before cooking. In serving, divide through +the middle lengthwise, and then divide each half into such portions as +may be desired. Be careful not to break or crumble them. + +_Smelts, Perch_, and other small pan-fish are served whole. They should +be arranged on the dish with heads and tails alternating, or in a circle +round a silver cup placed in the centre of the platter and holding the +sauce. Or, place two or three on a silver skewer, and serve a skewerful +to each person. + +Small slices and rolled fillets of fish are not divided. + + +BAKED FISH. + +_Cod, Haddock, Cusk, Blue-fish, Shad, Small Salmon, and Bass_. +These when served whole may be carved in a more satisfactory manner if +before cooking they are prepared according to the following directions: + +Stuff them and place them upright in the pan instead of on one side. +Fish that are broad and short like shad may be kept in place by propping +with stale bread or pared potatoes; but others that are narrow in +proportion to the length may be skewered or tied into the shape of the +letter S. + +Thread a trussing needle with strong twine, run it through the head and +fasten it there; then bend the head round and draw the needle through +the middle of the body. Bend the tail in the opposite direction, run the +needle through near the tail, draw the string tightly and fasten it. +Gash the skin two inches apart on each side. Fish thus prepared will +retain its shape until served. + +Place it on the platter with the head at the left and the outward curve +on the farther side of the dish. Make an incision along each side of the +backbone the entire length of the fish. Then cut through the gashes on +the side nearest you and lay each portion away from the bone. Then +remove the fish on the farther side of the bone. Raise the bone to +reach the stuffing, and serve a little of the fish, stuffing, and sauce +to each person. The skeleton should be left entire on the platter. + +If the fish has been baked in the usual way and placed on the platter on +its side, cut across through to the backbone, but not through it, and +serve, apportioning as may be desired. Slip the knife under and remove +the portion from the bone. When the fish is all removed from the top, +remove the backbone, and then divide the lower portion. + + +SCALLOPED DISHES, MEAT PIES, ENTREES, ETC. + +Meats and fish which have the sauce on the same dish require special +care in serving, that they may present a neat rather than a sloppy +appearance on the plate. A drop of gravy on the edge of the plate will +offend a fastidious taste. + +_Scalloped Dishes_, or anything with a crust of crumbs, should be served +with a spoon. + +_Meat Pies_, with a pastry crust, require a broad knife and spoon. Put +the portion on the plate neatly, with the crust or browned side up. + +_Poached Eggs, Quails, and other Meats on Toast._ A broad knife should +be used in helping to these dishes. Take up the toast carefully, and lay +it on the plate without displacing the egg or bird. + + +SALADS. + +The most tasteful way of arranging meat-salads or fish-salads is with +whole, fresh, lettuce-leaves. Put two or more leaves together on the +platter, and in the nest or dish thus made lay a spoonful of the salad, +with the Mayonnaise on the top. In serving, slip the spoon or broad +knife under the leaves and keep them in place with the fork. Put the +salad on the plate carefully, in the same position, not tipped over. Or +you may have a border of fresh lettuce-leaves in the salad-dish. With +the fork lay one or two leaves on the plate, and then put a spoonful of +salad on the leaves. In this way each person has the Mayonnaise on the +top; the lettuce is underneath and fresh and crisp, instead of wilted, +as it would be if all of it were mixed with the salad. + + +VEGETABLES. + +In serving vegetables, take up a neat, rounding spoonful. Lay them on +the bottom of the plate, not on the rim or edge. Where there are several +kinds, do not let them touch each other on the plate. + +Serve, on separate dishes, _fritters_ with a sweet sauce, _peas_, +_tomatoes_, or any vegetable with much liquid. + +_Asparagus on Toast_ is a dish that one often sees served very +awkwardly. Use a square or rectangular platter rather than one narrow at +the ends. + +The bread for the toast should be cut long and narrow, rather than +square, and should be laid, not lengthwise, but across the platter. Lay +the asparagus in the same direction, the tips all at the farther side. +Put the knife, which should be broad and long, under the toast, and keep +the asparagus in place with the fork. You will find it much easier to +serve than when arranged in the usual way. + +_Macaroni_ as often prepared is another dish which it is not easy to +serve neatly. Always break or cut it into pieces less than two inches +long, before cooking, or before it is sent to the table. + +In serving _sweet corn_ on the cob, provide finger-bowls, or a small +doily to use in holding the ear of corn. + + +SOUPS. + +One ladleful of soup is sufficient for each plate. It is quite an art to +take up a ladleful and pour it into the soup-plate without dropping any +on the edge of the tureen or plate, and it requires a steady hand to +pass the plate without slopping the soup up on the rim. Dip the ladle +into the soup, take it up, and when the drop has fallen from the bottom +of it, lift it over quickly but empty it slowly. + +Croutons and crackers lose their crispness if put into the tureen with +the soup, and should therefore be passed separately. + + +TEA AND COFFEE. + +Much has been written on the importance of serving neatly the various +drinks for an invalid. But careful service is equally essential at the +daily home table. It is mistaken generosity to fill the cup so full that +when sugar and cream are added, the liquid will spill over into the +saucer. One should never be compelled to clean the bottom of the cup on +the edge of the saucer, or on the napkin, to keep the liquid from +dripping on the cloth. + +In serving tea and coffee, ascertain the tastes of those at the table as +to sugar and cream. Put the cream and sugar in the cup, and an extra +block of sugar in the saucer; pour in the liquid until the cup is three +fourths full. Where there are no servants to wait on the table, this way +makes less confusion than to pass the sugar and cream to each person. + +Always provide a pitcher of boiling hot water and a slop-bowl. In cold +weather, pour hot water into the cups to warm them; then turn it into +the bowl. In serving a second time, rinse the inside of the cup with hot +water before filling. + + +PIES. + +It was formerly considered necessary to divide a pie with mathematical +exactness into quarters or sixths. A better way is to cut out one piece +of the usual size and offer it, and then if less be desired, cut off +such portions as may be needed. + +In serving a pie, always use a fork with the knife. + +Pies with no undercrust are more easily served with a broad knife or a +triangular knife made expressly for pies. For serving berry and juicy +fruit pies, a spoon also may be needed. Where two or three kinds are +served, help to very small portions of each, even if it be at a +Thanksgiving dinner. + +It is presuming on the capacity of the common-sized plate, and it is an +insult to the human stomach, to offer any one three sixths of a pie +after a dinner of the usual courses. + + +PUDDINGS. + +Hot puddings of a soft consistency should be served with a spoon; +sometimes a fork also is needed. With the edge of the spoon cut through +the brown crust in a semicircle, slip the spoon under, and take up a +spoonful; slip it off on the plate, leaving it right side up. + +Take special case to serve temptingly anything with a meringue. + + +MOULDS OF PUDDING, CREAMS, CHARLOTTE RUSSE, ICE-CREAM, ETC. + +Anything stiff enough to be moulded should be cut in slices from three +fourths of an inch to an inch thick; the wider slices in oval-shaped +moulds may be divided through the middle. A broad silver knife with a +raised edge is very convenient to use in serving Bavarian Cream, +Ice-Creams, and Charlottes. + + +FRUIT AND NUTS. + +A pair of grape scissors should be laid on the fruit-dish to use in +dividing large bunches of grapes or raisins; but a nut-cracker is too +suggestive of hotel life to be acceptable on the home table. Crack the +nuts before they are sent to the table. Salt should be served with the +nuts. + +Pass oranges, apples, pears, peaches, and bananas in the fruit-dish, to +allow each person the opportunity of choice. + +_Watermelon_. Before serving, cut a slice from each end. Make incisions +through the middle in the form of the letter V, separate the parts, and +place each in an upright position. Cut through the divisions, and serve +one section to each person. + +Cantaloupes, if small, are sometimes served cut in halves. If large, +divide from end to end in nature's lines of depression. + + +THE THICKNESS OF SLICES. + +By "very thin slices of meat" we mean slices less than an eighth of an +inch thick. + +"Thin slices" are from one eighth of an inch to three sixteenths of an +inch in thickness. + +Slices of "medium thickness" are one quarter of an inch. + +Bread for dinner should be cut in slices one inch and a half thick, and +each slice should be divided across into three or four long pieces, +according to the width of the slice. + +For tea, cut slices three eighths of an inch thick, and for toast, one +quarter of an inch. + +Thick loaves of cake should be cut in slices from three fourths of an +inch to an inch thick, and divided once. Cut loaves of medium thickness +in pieces as broad as the cake is thick, and divide them once. Thin +sheets of cake should be cut in rectangular pieces twice as broad as the +cake is thick. Then divide once, or even twice, if the sheet be very +wide. Layer cakes baked in round pans are usually divided into +triangular pieces; but they are less suggestive of baker's Washington +pie, which is so offensively common, if the edges be trimmed in such a +way as to leave a square. Then cut this square into smaller squares or +rectangles. + + +UTENSILS FOR CARVING AND SERVING. + +In any first-class cutlery store you will find knives for each special +kind of carving. If your purse will permit the indulgence, it will be +convenient to have a breakfast-carver, a slicer, a jointer, a +game-carver, and a pair of game-scissors. But if you can afford to have +only one, you will find a medium-sized meat-carver the knife best +adapted to all varieties of carving. The blade should be about nine +inches long and one inch and a quarter wide, slightly curved, and +tapering to a point. + +The fork should have two slender curving tines about three eighths of an +inch apart and two and a half inches long, and should have a guard. + +A breakfast or steak carver is of the same general shape, but the handle +is smaller, and the blade is six or seven inches long. A slicer for +roasts has a wide, straight blade, twelve inches long, and rounded +instead of pointed at the end. This is especially convenient for carving +thin slices from any large roasts, or other varieties of solid meat. The +width of the blade helps to steady the meat, and its great length +enables one to cut with a single, long, smooth stroke through the entire +surface. With a knife having a short blade a sort of sawing motion would +be made, and the slice would be jagged. As there are no joints to +separate, a point on the blade is unnecessary. + +A jointer is another form of carver, useful where the joints are so +large or so difficult to separate that considerable strength is +required. The handle has a crook or guard on the end to enable the +carver to grasp it more securely and use all the strength necessary. + +A game-carver has a small, narrow, pointed blade; but the shape and +length of the handle is the distinguishing feature. The handle should be +long enough to reach from the tip of the forefinger to an inch beyond +the back side of the hand, so that the edge of the hand about an inch +above the wrist rests against the handle of the carver. In dividing a +difficult joint, the manipulation should be made, not by turning the +hand, but by turning the knife with the fingers. In this way the +position of the point of the blade can be more easily changed as the +joint may require. The handle of the carving-knife supports the hand of +the carver. + +Game-scissors have handles like scissors; the two short blades are quite +deeply curved, something like the blade of a pruning-knife, making the +cutting-power greater. This enables the person using them to cut through +quite large bones in tough joints which would otherwise be quite +difficult to separate. + +Another form of jointer has two blades, one shorter than the other, and +a round handle divided the entire length, with a spring in the end next +the blade. When the handle is closed, the blades are together and the +outer edge of the longer blade is used like a knife for cutting the +meat. By opening the handle the curving edges of the blades are used +like scissors for cutting the bones. + +There are various styles of steels or knife-sharpeners, but the one now +in my possession is the best I have ever seen. + +It is a four-sided bar of steel, about three eighths of an inch wide and +thick, and eight inches long, having the four sides deeply grooved, thus +making the edges very prominent. These edges are so sharp that but +little pressure of the knife on the steel is required. The handle has a +large guard to protect the left hand from the edge of the blade. + +But few people know how to use a steel properly. It is difficult to +describe the process,--so easy to a natural mechanic and so awkward to +others,--or to instruct one in the knack of it, by mere description. +Hold the steel firmly in the left hand. Let the edge of the knife near +the handle rest on the steel, the back of the knife raised slightly at +an angle of about 30 deg.. Draw the knife along lightly but steadily, always +at the same angle, the entire length of the blade. Then pass the knife +under the steel and draw the other surface along the opposite edge of +the steel, from the handle to the point, at the same angle. Repeat these +alternate motions the entire length of the blade, not on the point +merely, until you have an edge. + +Some persons prefer to turn the knife over, drawing it first from the +left hand and then toward it, sharpening each surface alternately on the +same edge of the steel. This is more difficult to do, as you cannot so +surely keep the blade at the same angle,--and this is the most important +point. If held at any other than the proper angle, either no edge is +made, or it is taken off as soon as obtained. + +It is bewildering, if one has any intention of buying, to examine the +assortment of spoons, knives, forks, etc., displayed at the +silversmith's. + +There are ladles for soups, sauces, gravy, and cream; shovels for sugar +and salt, and scoops for cheese; tongs for sugar, pickles, olives, and +asparagus; spoons for sugar, jelly, fruit, sauces, salads, vegetables, +and macaroni; slicers for ice-cream, cake, and jelly; knives for fish, +pie, cake, and fruit; forks for fish, oysters, pickles, olives, salad, +and asparagus; scissors for grapes and raisins; crackers and picks for +nuts; and rests for the carving knife and fork. Some of these are really +useful; some as little so as many of the hundred and one novelties +designed particularly for wedding gifts. But in neat and careful serving +it is essential to have a soup-ladle, a gravy or sauce ladle, a pair of +tongs or shells for block sugar, a slender-tined silver fork for +pickles, a plentiful supply of large and medium-sized spoons, a +carving-rest, a crumb-scraper, and at least one broad silver knife and +fork, which if occasion requires may do duty at several courses. + + +LAST BUT NOT LEAST. + +In offering a second portion of anything do not remind one that he has +already been helped. + +"Can't I give you another piece of meat or pie?" "Won't you have some +more tea or pudding?" Expressions like these are frequently heard. + +It is in far better taste to say, "Will you have some hot coffee?" "May +I give you some of the salad?" "Let me help you to this choice portion." + +We trust none of our readers will regard this suggestion as trivial. +For, concerning kindness, we know that perfection is no trifle. It is +the essence of that second commandment which we are divinely told is +like "the first of all the commandments;" and it cannot be attained +without assiduous attention to all the minor words and the common acts +of life. + +"_Among all the Cook-Books this will certainly take its place as one of +the very best_."--THE CHRISTIAN UNION + + + * * * * * + + +MRS. LINCOLN'S + +BOSTON COOK-BOOK. + +WHAT TO DO AND WHAT NOT TO DO IN COOKING. + +BY MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN, + +FIRST PRINCIPAL OF THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL + +NEW REVISED EDITION, including 250 additional recipes. + +_With_ 50 _Illustrations_. 12_mo_. _Cloth_. +600 _pages_. _Price_ $2.00. + + * * * * * + +A SELECTION FROM SOME OF THE MANY NOTICES BY THE PRESS. + +"Mrs. Lincoln, nothing daunted by the legion of cook-books already in +existence, thinks there is room for one more. Her handsome and +serviceable-looking volume seems to contain everything essential to a +complete understanding of the culinary art. The Introduction of +thirty-five pages discusses such subjects as cooking in general, fire, +fuel, management of a stove, the various processes of boiling, stewing, +baking, frying, roasting, and broiling, with full explanation of the +chemical theory underlying each and distinguishing them; also hints on +measuring and mixing, with tables of weights, measures, and proportions; +of time in cooking various articles, and of average cost of material. +One who can learn nothing from this very instructive Introduction must +be well-informed indeed. Following this comes an elaborate and +exhaustive chapter on bread-making in all its steps and phases. To this +important topic some seventy pages are devoted. And so on through the +whole range of viands. Exactness, plainness, thoroughness, seem to +characterize all the author's teachings. No point is neglected, and +directions are given for both necessary and luxurious dishes. There are +chapters on cooking for invalids, the dining-room, care of kitchen +utensils, etc. There is also a valuable outline of study for teachers +taking up the chemical properties of food, and the physiological +functions of digestion, absorption, nutrition, etc. Add the +miscellaneous questions for examination, the topics and illustrations +for lectures on cookery, list of utensils needed in a cooking-school, an +explanation of foreign terms used in cookery, a classified and an +alphabetical index,--and you have what must be considered as complete a +work of its kind as has yet appeared."--_Mirror, Springfield, Ill_. + +"In answer to the question, 'What does cookery mean?' Mr. Ruskin says: +'It means the knowledge of Circe and Medea, and of Calypso and of Helen, +and of Rebekah and of all the Queens of Sheba. It means knowledge of all +fruits and balms and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in +fields and groves, and savory to meals; it means carefulness and +inventiveness, and readiness of appliances; it means the economy of your +great-grandmothers and the science of modern chemistry; it means much +tasting and no wasting; it means English thoroughness, and French art, +and American hospitality.' It is not extravagant to say that as far as +these mythological, biblical, and practical requirements can be met by +one weak woman, they are met by Mrs. Lincoln. And to the varied and +extensive range of knowledge she adds an acquaintance with Milton and +with Confucius, as shown by the apt quotations on her titlepage. The +book is intended to satisfy the needs and wants of the experienced +housekeeper, the tyro, and of the teacher in a cooking-school. In its +receipts, in its tables of time and proportion, in its clear and minute +directions about every detail of kitchen and dining-room, it has left +unanswered few questions which may suggest themselves to the most or the +least intelligent."--_The Nation_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln's 'Boston Cook-Book' is no mere amateur compilation, much +less an _omnium gatherum_ of receipts. Its title does scant justice to +it, for it is not so much a cook-book as a dietetic and culinary +cyclopaedia. Mrs. Lincoln is a lady of culture and practical tastes, who +has made the fine art of _cuisine_ the subject of professional study and +teaching. In this book she has shown her literary skill and +intelligence, as well as her expertness as a practical cook and teacher +of cookery. It is full of interest and instruction for any one, though +one should never handle a skillet or know the feeling of dough. Nothing +in the way of explanation is left unsaid. And for a young housekeeper, +it is a complete outfit for the culinary department of her duties and +domain. There are many excellent side-hints as to the nature, history, +and hygiene of food, which are not often found in such books; and the +Indexes are of the completest and most useful kind. We find ourselves +quite enthusiastic over the work, and feel like saying to the +accomplished authoress, 'Many daughters have done virtuously, but thou +excellest them all.'"--_Rev. Dr. Zabriskie, in Christian Intelligencer_. + +"Among all the cook-books, Mrs. D.A. Lincoln's 'Boston Cook-Book' will +certainly take its place as one of the very best. It is published and +arranged in a very convenient and attractive form, and the style in +which it is written has a certain literary quality which will tempt +those who are not interested in recipes and cooking to peruse its pages. +The recipes are practical, and give just those facts which are generally +omitted from books of this sort, to the discouragement of the +housekeeper, and frequently to the lamentable disaster and failure of +her plans. Mrs. Lincoln has laid a large number of people under +obligation, and puts into her book a large amount of general experience +in the difficult and delicate art of cooking. The book is admirably +arranged, and is supplied with the most perfect indexes we have ever +seen in any work of the kind"--_The Christian Union_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln has written a cook-book; really written one, not made +merely a compilation of receipts,--that sort of mechanical work any one +can do who has patience enough to search for the rules, and system +enough to arrange them. Mrs. Lincoln's book is written out of the +experience of life, both as a housekeeper and a teacher. Her long +experience as principal of the Boston Cooking-School has enabled her to +find out just what it is that people most want and need to know. I have +no hesitation in recommending Mrs. Lincoln's as the best cook-book, in +all respects, of any I have seen. It is exactly fitted for use as a +family authority, in that it is the work, not of a theorizer, but of a +woman who knows what she is talking about. It is the very common-sense +of the science of cookery."--_Extracts from Sallie Joy White's letters +in Philadelphia and Portland papers_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln's 'Boston Cook-Book' is a characteristically American, not +to say Yankee, production. Boston productions are nothing if not +profound, and even this cookery manual must begin with a definition, a +pinch of philology, and the culinary chemistry of heat, cold, water, +air, and drying.... But a touch of the blue-stocking has never been +harmful to cookery. This book is as deft as it is fundamental. It is so +perfectly and generously up to everything culinary, that it cannot help +spilling over a little into sciences and philosophy. It is the trimmest, +best arranged, best illustrated, most intelligible, manual of cookery as +a high art, and as an economic art, that has appeared."--_Independent_. + +"It is a pleasure to be able to give a man or a book unqualified praise. +We have no fear in saying that Mrs. Lincoln's work is the best and most +practical cook-book of its kind that has ever appeared. It does not +emanate from the _chef_ of some queen's or nobleman's _cuisine_, but it +tells in the most simple and practical and exact way those little things +which women ought to know, but have generally to learn by sad experience. +It is a book which ought to be in every household."--_Philadelphia Press_. + +"The 'Boston Cook-Book' has a special recommendation. The author, Mrs. +Lincoln, was early trained to a love for all household work. That +precious experience is a thing for which a cooking-school is no manner +of substitute, while it is just the thing for professional training to +build upon, widen, and correct. Mrs. Lincoln's book is practical, and +though there is much of theory, it gives proof of being based less upon +theory and much upon experiment. The book is handsomely gotten up, and +will ere long attest its usefulness in better food better prepared, and +therefore better digested, in many homes."--_Leader_. + +"It is the embodiment of the actual experience and observation of a +woman who has learned and employed superior domestic methods. It is the +outcome of Mrs. Lincoln's conscientious and successful labors for the +development of practical cooking. It is to be recommended for its +usefulness in point of receipts of moderate cost and quantity, in its +variety, its comprehensiveness, and for the excellence of its +typographical form."--_Boston Transcript_. + +"The instruction given by Mrs. Lincoln at the Boston Cooking-School is +so widely and favorably known for its thoroughness and attention to +scientific and economical principles, that a cook-book embodying these +ideas and principles will be considered a great gain to the housekeeping +department. In care and excellence, her book illustrates the modern +advance in home cooking."--_Boston Journal_. + +"The book needs no other _raison d'etre_ than its own excellence. Every +housekeeper in the land would be fortunate to have upon her shelf a copy +of Mrs. Lincoln's work."--_Boston Courier_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln's book contains in one volume what most other cook-books +contain in three; and its directions are always terse and to the point. +It is a thoroughly practical book, and teaches us all how to live well +and wisely every day in the year."--_The Beacon_. + +"The most valuable feature of Mrs. Lincoln's Cook-Book is, without +doubt, the application of scientific knowledge to the culinary art. Mrs. +Lincoln has the gift of teaching, and its use in this connection is +worthy of the warmest commendation. She has made the necessary +explanations in a very lucid and succinct manner. To the thousands of +intelligent housekeepers who recognize the importance of the art of the +kitchen, this book will be a boon."--_Eclectic_. + +"The book, although at first sight it seems no larger than other +cook-books, has over five hundred pages, and takes up the minutest +details of housekeeping. Having examined all the standard cook-books now +in the market, this seems superior to all. There is so much in this that +is not found in other cook-books, that it is equal to a small library in +itself."--_Extracts from Anna Barrow's letters in Oxford and Portland +papers_. + +"We have at last from Boston something better than the Emersonian +philosophy or the learning of Harvard,--something that will contribute +more to human health, and consequently to human happiness; and that is, +a good, practical cook-book, with illustrations.... We commend Mrs. +Lincoln's volume heartily, and wish it might make a part of every bridal +outfit."--_The Churchman_. + +"For plain, practical, and at the same time scientific treatment of a +difficult subject, commend us to Mrs. Lincoln's 'Boston Cook-Book.' No +better book has appeared to keep pace with the wholesome advance of +culinary art, as practiced in the common-sense cooking-school."--_Toledo_. + +"It combines whatever is best in those which have gone before, with +improvements and refinements peculiar to itself. It is so complete and +admirable in its various departments, that it seems to fill every +requirement. How soon it will be rivalled or superseded it is unsafe to +predict; but for the present we may commend it as in every respect +unsurpassed."--_The Dial_. + +"The volume is a compound of information on every household matter; well +arranged, clearly written, and attractively made up. Of the many +valuable cook-books, not one better deserves a place, or is more likely +to secure and hold it."--_Helen Campbell_. + +"The possession of your cook-book has made me quite beside myself. I +prize it highly, not only for personal reasons, but because of its real +worth. I feel so safe with it as a guide, and if I abide by its rules +and laws no harm can befall me."--_Adeline Miller, a former pupil, +Atlanta, Georgia_. + +"One need only glance over the pages of Mrs Lincoln's Cook-Book to +realize the fact of her aptness in scholarship."--_Alta, San Francisco_. + +"Mrs. Lincoln brings not only the fruits of a long experience to the +preparation of her work, but a great amount of scientific research, so +that the book is really a mine of information in its way."--_The Post, +Washington_. + +"It is one of the most interesting treatises on cooking and housework that +we have ever read. It contains much useful information to the general +reader, and is one we would recommend to every housekeeper."--_Saratoga +Sentinel_. + + + * * * * * + + +Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook-Book _is kept on sale by all booksellers +everywhere. If you cannot readily obtain it, enclose the amount, $2.00, +directly to_ MRS. D.A. LINCOLN, Boston, Mass., _or to the Publishers, +who will mail it, postpaid_. + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Carving and Serving, by Mrs. D. A. Lincoln + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CARVING AND SERVING *** + +***** This file should be named 15363.txt or 15363.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/3/6/15363/ + +Produced by Jason Isbell and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. 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