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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/15360-8.txt b/15360-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3bdff1f --- /dev/null +++ b/15360-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10075 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Easiest Way in Housekeeping and Cooking +by Helen Campbell + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Easiest Way in Housekeeping and Cooking + Adapted to Domestic Use or Study in Classes + +Author: Helen Campbell + +Release Date: March 14, 2005 [EBook #15360] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EASIEST WAY IN *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + + +THE +EASIEST WAY +IN +HOUSEKEEPING AND COOKING. + +Adapted to Domestic Use or Study in Classes +BY +HELEN CAMPBELL, + +AUTHOR OF "IN FOREIGN KITCHENS," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," "PRISONERS OF +POVERTY,", "SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH," +"WOMEN WAGE-EARNERS," ETC., ETC. + +"If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere well +It were done quickly." + +BOSTON: +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, +1903. + + + + +_Copyright, 1893,_ +BY ROBERTS BROTHERS. + +University Press: +JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A. + + +A Book for Agnes L.V.W. + +AND THE SOUTHERN GIRLS WHO STUDIED +WITH HER. + + + + +PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION. + + +The little book now revised and sent out with some slight additions, +remains substantially the same as when first issued in 1880. In the midst +of always increasing cookery-books, it has had a firm constituency of +friends, especially in the South, where its necessity was first made +plain. To enlarge it in any marked degree would violate the original plan, +for which the critic will please read the pages headed "Introductory," +where he or she will find full explanation of the growth and purpose of +the book. Whoever desires more receipts and more elaborate forms of +preparation must look for their sources in the bibliography at the end, +since their introduction in these pages would practically nullify the +title, proved true by years of testing at the hands of inexperienced +housekeepers, whose warm words have long been very pleasant to the author +of "The Easiest Way." + +NEW YORK, June, 1893. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +PART FIRST. + +PAGE + +INTRODUCTORY 5 + +CHAPTER. + + I. THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT 11 + II. THE HOUSE: ITS VENTILATION 19 + III. DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY 27 + IV. THE DAY'S WORK 35 + V. FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH 45 + VI. WASHING-DAY AND CLEANING IN GENERAL 54 + VII. THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION 68 +VIII. FOOD AND ITS LAWS 73 + IX. THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH 80 + X. THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD 90 + XI. THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD 100 + XII. CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES 110 + +PART SECOND. + +STOCK AND SEASONING 119 +SOUPS 122 +FISH 131 +MEATS 144 +POULTRY 161 +SAUCES AND SALADS 173 +EGGS AND BREAKFAST DISHES 180 +TEA, COFFEE, &C 193 +VEGETABLES 197 +BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES 208 +CAKE 221 +PASTRY AND PIES 232 +PUDDINGS, BOILED AND BAKED 238 +CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, &C 245 +CANNING AND PRESERVING 252 +PICKLES AND CATCHUPS 257 +CANDIES 259 +SICK-ROOM COOKERY 261 +HOUSEHOLD HINTS 270 +HINTS TO TEACHERS 280 +LESSONS FOR PRACTICE CLASS 282 +TWENTY TOPICS FOR CLASS USE 285 +LIST OF AUTHORITIES REFERRED TO 286 +EXAMINATION QUESTIONS 287 +BIBLIOGRAPHY 288 +INDEX 289 + + + + +_Introductory._ + + +That room or toleration for another "cook-book" can exist in the public +mind, will be denied at once, with all the vigor to be expected from a +people overrun with cook-books, and only anxious to relegate the majority +of them to their proper place as trunk-linings and kindling-material. The +minority, admirable in plan and execution, and elaborate enough to serve +all republican purposes, are surely sufficient for all the needs that have +been or may be. With Mrs. Cornelius and Miss Parloa, Marion Harland and +Mrs. Whitney, and innumerable other trustworthy authorities, for all +every-day purposes, and Mrs. Henderson for such festivity as we may at +times desire to make, another word is not only superfluous but absurd; in +fact, an outrage on common sense, not for one instant to be justified. + +Such was my own attitude and such my language hardly a year ago; yet that +short space of time has shown me, that, whether the public admit the +claim, or no, one more cook-book MUST BE. And this is why:-- + +A year of somewhat exceptional experience--that involved in building up +several cooking-schools in a new locality, demanding the most thorough +and minute system to assure their success and permanence--showed the +inadequacies of any existing hand-books, and the necessities to be met in +making a new one. Thus the present book has a twofold character, and +represents, not only the ordinary receipt or cook book, usable in any part +of the country and covering all ordinary household needs, but covers the +questions naturally arising in every lesson given, and ending in +statements of the most necessary points in household science. There are +large books designed to cover this ground, and excellent of their kind, +but so cumbrous in form and execution as to daunt the average reader. + +Miss Corson's "Cooking-School Text-Book" commended itself for its +admirable plainness and fullness of detail, but was almost at once found +impracticable as a system for my purposes; her dishes usually requiring +the choicest that the best city market could afford, and taking for +granted also a taste for French flavorings not yet common outside of our +large cities, and to no great extent within them. To utilize to the best +advantage the food-resources of whatever spot one might be in, to give +information on a hundred points suggested by each lesson, yet having no +place in the ordinary cook-book, in short, _to teach household science as +well as cooking_, became my year's work; and it is that year's work which +is incorporated in these pages. Beginning with Raleigh, N.C., and lessons +given in a large school there, it included also a seven-months' course at +the Deaf and Dumb Institute, and regular classes for ladies. Straight +through, in those classes, it became my business to say, "This is no +infallible system, warranted to give the whole art of cooking in twelve +lessons. All I can do for you is to lay down clearly certain fixed +principles; to show you how to economize thoroughly, yet get a better +result than by the expenditure of perhaps much more material. Before our +course ends, you will have had performed before you every essential +operation in cooking, and will know, so far as I can make you know, +prices, qualities, constituents, and physiological effects of every type +of food. Beyond this, the work lies in your own hands." + +Armed with manuals,--American, English, French,--bent upon systematizing +the subject, yet finding none entirely adequate, gradually, and in spite +of all effort to the contrary, I found that my teaching rested more and +more on my own personal experience as a housekeeper, both at the South and +at the North. The mass of material in many books was found confusing and +paralyzing, choice seeming impossible when a dozen methods were given. And +for the large proportion of receipts, directions were so vague that only a +trained housekeeper could be certain of the order of combination, or +results when combined. So from the crowd of authorities was gradually +eliminated a foundation for work; and on that foundation has risen a +structure designed to serve two ends. + +For the young housekeeper, beginning with little or no knowledge, but +eager to do and know the right thing, not alone for kitchen but for the +home as a whole, the list of topics touched upon in Part I. became +essential. That much of the knowledge compressed there should have been +gained at home, is at once admitted: but, unfortunately, few homes give +it; and the aim has been to cover the ground concisely yet clearly and +attractively. As to Part II., it does not profess to be the whole art of +cooking, but merely the line of receipts most needed in the average +family, North or South. Each receipt has been tested personally by the +writer, often many times; and each one is given so minutely that failure +is well-nigh impossible, if the directions are intelligently followed. A +few distinctively Southern dishes are included, but the ground covered has +drawn from all sources; the series of excellent and elaborate manuals by +well-known authors having contributed here and there, but the majority of +rules being, as before said, the result of years of personal experiment, +or drawn from old family receipt-books. + +To facilitate the work of the teacher, however, a scheme of lessons is +given at the end, covering all that can well be taught in the ordinary +school year: each lesson is given with page references to the receipts +employed, while a shorter and more compact course is outlined for the use +of classes for ladies. A list of topics is also given for school use; it +having been found to add greatly to the interest of the course to write +each week the story of some ingredient in the lesson for the day, while a +set of questions, to be used at periodical intervals, fixes details, and +insures a certain knowledge of what progress has been made. The course +covers the chemistry and physiology of food, as well as an outline of +household science in general, and may serve as a text-book wherever such +study is introduced. It is hoped that this presentation of the subject +will lessen the labor necessary in this new field, though no text-book can +fully take the place of personal enthusiastic work. + +That training is imperatively demanded for rich and poor alike, is now +unquestioned; but the mere taking a course of cooking-lessons alone does +not meet the need in full. The present book aims to fill a place hitherto +unoccupied; and precisely the line of work indicated there has been found +the only practical method in a year's successful organization of schools +at various points. Whether used at home with growing girls, in +cooking-clubs, in schools, or in private classes, it is hoped that the +system outlined and the authorities referred to will stimulate interest, +and open up a new field of work to many who have doubted if the food +question had any interest beyond the day's need, and who have failed to +see that nothing ministering to the best life and thought of this +wonderful human body could ever by any chance be rightfully called "common +or unclean." We are but on the threshold of the new science. If these +pages make the way even a little plainer, the author will have +accomplished her full purpose, and will know that in spite of appearances +there is "room for one more." + +HELEN CAMPBELL. + + + + +_THE EASIEST WAY._ + + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT. + + +From the beginning it must be understood that what is written here applies +chiefly to country homes. The general principles laid down are applicable +with equal force to town or city life; but as a people we dwell mostly in +the country, and, even in villages or small towns, each house is likely to +have its own portion of land about it, and to look toward all points of +the compass, instead of being limited to two, as in city blocks. Of the +comparative advantages or disadvantages of city or country life, there is +no need to speak here. Our business is simply to give such details as may +apply to both, but chiefly to the owners of moderate incomes, or salaried +people, whose expenditure must always be somewhat limited. With the +exterior of such homes, women at present have very little to do; and the +interior also is thus far much in the hands of architects, who decide for +general prettiness of effect, rather than for the most convenient +arrangement of space. The young bride, planning a home, is resolved upon a +bay-window, as large a parlor as possible, and an effective spare-room; +but, having in most cases no personal knowledge of work, does not +consider whether kitchen and dining-room are conveniently planned, or not, +and whether the arrangement of pantries and closets is such that both +rooms must be crossed a hundred times a day, when a little foresight might +have reduced the number certainly by one-half, perhaps more. + +Inconvenience can, in most cases, be remedied; but unhealthfulness or +unwholesomeness of location, very seldom: and therefore, in the beginning, +I write that ignorance is small excuse for error, and that every one able +to read at all, or use common-sense about any detail of life, is able to +form a judgment of what is healthful or unhealthful. If no books are at +hand, consult the best physician near, and have his verdict as to the +character of the spot in which more or less of your life in this world +will be spent, and which has the power to affect not only your mental and +bodily health, but that of your children. Because your fathers and mothers +have been neglectful of these considerations, is no reason why you should +continue in ignorance; and the first duty in making a home is to consider +earnestly and intelligently certain points. + +Four essentials are to be thought of in the choice of any home; and their +neglect, and the ignorance which is the foundation of this neglect, are +the secret of not only the chronic ill-health supposed to be a necessity +of the American organization, but of many of the epidemics and mysterious +diseases classed under the head of "visitations of Providence." + +These essentials are: a wholesome situation, good ventilation, good +drainage, and a dry cellar. Rich or poor, high or low, if one of these be +disregarded, the result will tell, either on your own health or on that of +your family. Whether palace or hut, brown-stone front or simple wooden +cottage, the law is the same. As a rule, the ordinary town or village is +built upon low land, because it is easier to obtain a water-supply from +wells and springs. In such a case, even where the climate itself may be +tolerably healthy, the drainage from the hills at hand, or the nearness of +swamps and marshes produced by the same cause, makes a dry cellar an +impossibility; and this shut-in and poisonous moisture makes malaria +inevitable. The dwellers on low lands are the pill and patent-medicine +takers; and no civilized country swallows the amount of tonics and bitters +consumed by our own. + +If possible, let the house be on a hill, or at least a rise of ground, to +secure the thorough draining-away of all sewage and waste water. Even in a +swampy and malarious country, such a location will insure all the health +possible in such a region, if the other conditions mentioned are +faithfully attended to. + +Let the living-rooms and bedrooms, as far as may be, have full sunshine +during a part of each day; and reserve the north side of the house for +store-rooms, refrigerator, and the rooms seldom occupied. Do not allow +trees to stand so near as to shut out air or sunlight; but see that, while +near enough for beauty and for shade, they do not constantly shed +moisture, and make twilight in your rooms even at mid-day. Sunshine is the +enemy of disease, which thrives in darkness and shadow. Consumption or +scrofulous disease is almost inevitable in the house shut in by trees, +whose blinds are tightly closed lest some ray of sunshine fade the +carpets; and over and over again it has been proved that the first +conditions of health are, abundant supply of pure air, and free admission +of sunlight to every nook and cranny. Even with imperfect or improper +food, these two allies are strong enough to carry the day for health; and, +when the three work in harmony, the best life is at once assured. + +If the house must be on the lowlands, seek a sandy or gravelly soil; and +avoid those built over clay beds, or even where clay bottom is found under +the sand or loam. In the last case, if drainage is understood, pipes may +be so arranged as to secure against any standing water; but, unless this +is done, the clammy moisture on walls, and the chill in every closed room, +are sufficient indication that the conditions for disease are ripe or +ripening. The only course in such case, after seeking proper drainage, is, +first, abundant sunlight, and, second, open fires, which will act not only +as drying agents, but as ventilators and purifiers. Aim to have at least +one open fire in the house. It is not an extravagance, but an essential, +and economy may better come in at some other place. + +Having settled these points as far as possible,--the question of +water-supply and ventilation being left to another chapter,--it is to be +remembered that the house is not merely a place to be made pleasant for +one's friends. They form only a small portion of the daily life; and the +first consideration should be: Is it so planned that the necessary and +inevitable work of the day can be accomplished with the least expenditure +of force? North and South, the kitchen is often the least-considered room +of the house; and, so long as the necessary meals are served up, the +difficulties that may have hedged about such serving are never counted. At +the South it is doubly so, and necessarily; old conditions having made +much consideration of convenience for servants an unthought-of thing. +With a throng of unemployed women and children, the question could only +be, how to secure some small portion of work for each one; and in such +case, the greater the inconveniences, the more chance for such employment. +Water could well be half a mile distant, when a dozen little darkies had +nothing to do but form a running line between house and spring; and so +with wood and kindling and all household necessities. + +To-day, with the old service done away with once for all, and with a set +of new conditions governing every form of work, the Southern woman faces +difficulties to which her Northern or Western sister is an utter stranger; +faces them often with a patience and dignity beyond all praise, but still +with a hopelessness of better things, the necessary fruit of ignorance. +Old things are passed away, and the new order is yet too unfamiliar for +rules to have formulated and settled in any routine of action. While there +is, at the North, more intuitive and inherited sense of how things should +be done, there is on many points an almost equal ignorance, more +especially among the cultivated classes, who, more than at any period of +woman's history, are at the mercy of their servants. Every science is +learned but domestic science. The schools ignore it; and, indeed, in the +rush toward an early graduation, there is small room for it. + +"She can learn at home," say the mothers. "She will take to it when her +time comes, just as a duck takes to water," add the fathers; and the +matter is thus dismissed as settled. + +In the mean time the "she" referred to--the average daughter of average +parents in both city and country--neither "learns at home," nor "takes to +it naturally," save in exceptional cases; and the reason for this is +found in the love, which, like much of the love given, is really only a +higher form of selfishness. The busy mother of a family, who has fought +her own way to fairly successful administration, longs to spare her +daughters the petty cares, the anxious planning, that have helped to eat +out her own youth; and so the young girl enters married life with a vague +sense of the dinners that must be, and a general belief that somehow or +other they come of themselves. And so with all household labor. That to +perform it successfully and skillfully, demands not only training, but the +best powers one can bring to bear upon its accomplishment, seldom enters +the mind; and the student, who has ended her course of chemistry or +physiology enthusiastically, never dreams of applying either to every-day +life. + +This may seem a digression; and yet, in the very outset, it is necessary +to place this work upon the right footing, and to impress with all +possible earnestness the fact, that Household Science holds every other +science in tribute, and that only that home which starts with this +admission and builds upon the best foundation the best that thought can +furnish, has any right to the name of "home." The swarms of drunkards, of +idiots, of insane, of deaf and dumb, owe their existence to an ignorance +of the laws of right living, which is simply criminal, and for which we +must be judged; and no word can be too earnest, which opens the young +girl's eyes to the fact that in her hands lie not alone her own or her +husband's future, but the future of the nation. It is hard to see beyond +one's own circle; but if light is sought for, and there is steady resolve +and patient effort to do the best for one's individual self, and those +nearest one, it will be found that the shadow passes, and that progress is +an appreciable thing. + +Begin in your own home. Study to make it not only beautiful, but perfectly +appointed. If your own hands must do the work, learn every method of +economizing time and strength. If you have servants, whether one or more, +let the same laws rule. It is not easy, I admit; no good thing is: but +there is infinite reward for every effort. Let no failure discourage, but +let each one be only a fresh round in the ladder all must climb who would +do worthy work; and be sure that the end will reward all pain, all +self-sacrifice, and make you truly the mistresses of the home for which +every woman naturally and rightfully hopes, but which is never truly hers +till every shade of detail in its administration has been mastered. + +The house, then, is the first element of home to be considered and +studied; and we have settled certain points as to location and +arrangement. This is no hand-book of plans for houses, that ground being +thoroughly covered in various books,--the titles of two or three of which +are given in a list of reference-books at the end. But, whether you build +or buy, see to it that your kitchens and working-rooms are well lighted, +well aired, and of good size, and that in the arrangement of the kitchen +especially, the utmost convenience becomes the chief end. Let sink, +pantries, stove or range, and working-space for all operations in cooking, +be close at hand. The difference between a pantry at the opposite end of +the room, and one opening close to the sink, for instance, may seem a +small matter; but when it comes to walking across the room with every dish +that is washed, the steps soon count up as miles, and in making even a +loaf of bread, the time and strength expended in gathering materials +together would go far toward the thorough kneading, which, when added to +the previous exertion, makes the whole operation, which might have been +only a pleasure, a burden and an annoyance. + +Let, then, stove, fuel, water, work-table, and pantries be at the same end +of the kitchen, and within a few steps of one another, and it will be +found that while the general labor of each day must always be the same, +the time required for its accomplishment will be far less, under these +favorable conditions. The successful workman,--the type-setter, the +cabinet-maker, or carpenter,--whose art lies in the rapid combination of +materials, arranges his materials and tools so as to be used with the +fewest possible movements; and the difference between a skilled and +unskilled workman is not so much the rate of speed in movement, as in the +ability to make each motion tell. The kitchen is the housekeeper's +workshop; and, in the chapter on _House-work_, some further details as to +methods and arrangements will be given. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. + + +Having settled the four requisites in any home, and suggested the points +to be made in regard to the first one,--that of wholesome +situation,--_Ventilation_ is next in order. Theoretically, each one of us +who has studied either natural philosophy or physiology will state at +once, with more or less glibness, the facts as to the atmosphere, its +qualities, and the amount of air needed by each individual; practically +nullifying such statement by going to bed in a room with closed windows +and doors, or sitting calmly in church or public hall, breathing over and +over again the air ejected from the lungs all about,--practice as cleanly +and wholesome as partaking of food chewed over and over by an +indiscriminate crowd. + +Now, as to find the Reason Why of all statements and operations is our +first consideration, the familiar ground must be traversed again, and the +properties and constituents of air find place here. It is an old story, +and, like other old stories accepted by the multitude, has become almost +of no effect; passive acceptance mentally, absolute rejection physically, +seeming to be the portion of much of the gospel of health. "Cleanliness is +next to godliness," is almost an axiom. I am disposed to amend it, and +assert that cleanliness _is_ godliness, or a form of godliness. At any +rate, the man or woman who demands cleanliness without and within, this +cleanliness meaning pure air, pure water, pure food, must of necessity +have a stronger body and therefore a clearer mind (both being nearer what +God meant for body and mind) than the one who has cared little for law, +and so lived oblivious to the consequences of breaking it. + +Ventilation, seemingly the simplest and easiest of things to be +accomplished, has thus far apparently defied architects and engineers. +Congress has spent a million in trying to give fresh air to the Senate and +Representative Chambers, and will probably spend another before that is +accomplished. In capitols, churches, and public halls of every sort, the +same story holds. Women faint, men in courts of justice fall in apoplectic +fits, or become victims of new and mysterious diseases, simply from the +want of pure air. A constant slow murder goes on in nurseries and +schoolrooms; and white-faced, nerveless children grow into white-faced and +nerveless men and women, as the price of this violated law. + +What is this air, seemingly so hard to secure, so hard to hold as part of +our daily life, without which we can not live, and which we yet +contentedly poison nine times out of ten? + +Oxygen, nitrogen, carbonic acid, and watery vapor; the last two being a +small portion of the bulk, oxygen and nitrogen making up four-fifths. +Small as the proportion of oxygen seems, an increase of but one-fifth more +would be destruction. It is the life-giver, but undiluted would be the +life-destroyer; and the three-fifths of nitrogen act as its diluent. No +other element possesses the same power. Fires and light-giving combustion +could not exist an instant without oxygen. Its office seems that of +universal destruction. By its action decay begins in meat or vegetables +and fruits; and it is for this reason, that, to preserve them, all oxygen +must be driven out by bringing them to the boiling point, and sealing them +up in jars to which no air can find entrance. With only undiluted oxygen +to breathe, the tissues would dry and shrivel, fuel burn with a fury none +could withstand, and every operation of nature be conducted with such +energy as soon to exhaust and destroy all power. But "a mixture of the +fiery oxygen and inert nitrogen gives us the golden mean. The oxygen now +quietly burns the fuel in our stoves, and keeps us warm; combines with the +oil in our lamps, and gives us light; corrodes our bodies, and gives us +strength; cleanses the air, and keeps it fresh and invigorating; sweetens +foul water, and makes it wholesome; works all around us and within us a +constant miracle, yet with such delicacy and quietness, we never perceive +or think of it, until we see it with the eye of science." + +Food and air are the two means by which bodies live. In the full-grown +man, whose weight will average about one hundred and fifty-four pounds, +one hundred and eleven pounds is oxygen drawn from the air we breathe. +Only when food has been dissolved in the stomach, absorbed at last into +the blood, and by means of circulation brought into contact with the +oxygen of the air taken into our lungs, can it begin to really feed and +nourish the body; so that the lungs may, after all, be regarded as the +true stomach, the other being not much more than the food-receptacle. + +Take these lungs, made up within of branching tubes, these in turn formed +by myriads of air-cells, and each air-cell owning its network of minute +cells called _capillaries_. To every air-cell is given a blood-vessel +bringing blood from the heart, which finds its way through every capillary +till it reaches another blood-vessel that carries it back to the heart. It +leaves the heart charged with carbonic acid and watery vapor. It returns, +if pure air has met it in the lung, with all corruption destroyed, a +dancing particle of life. But to be life, and not slow death, thirty-three +hogsheads of air must pass daily into the lungs, and twenty-eight pounds +of blood journey from heart to lungs and back again three times in each +hour. It rests wholly with ourselves, whether this wonderful tide, ebbing +and flowing with every breath, shall exchange its poisonous and clogging +carbonic acid and watery vapor for life-giving oxygen, or retain it to +weigh down and debilitate every nerve in the body. + +With every thought and feeling some actual particles of brain and nerve +are dissolved, and sent floating on this crimson current. With every +motion of a muscle, whether great or small, with every process that can +take place in the body, this ceaseless change of particles is going on. +Wherever oxygen finds admission, its union with carbon to form carbonic +acid, or with hydrogen to form water, produces heat. The waste of the body +is literally burned up by the oxygen; and it is this burning which means +the warmth of a living body, its absence giving the stony cold of the +dead. "Who shall deliver me from the body of this death?" may well be the +literal question for each day of our lives; and "pure air" alone can +secure genuine life. Breathing bad air reduces all the processes of the +body, lessens vitality; and thus, one in poor health will suffer more from +bad air than those who have become thoroughly accustomed to it. If +weakened vitality were the only result, it would not be so serious a +matter; but scrofula is soon fixed upon such constitutions, beginning with +its milder form as in consumption, but ending in the absolute rottenness +of bone and tissue. The invalid may live in the healthiest climate, pass +hours each day in the open air, and yet undo or neutralize much of the +good of this by sleeping in an unventilated room at night. Diseased +joints, horrible affections of the eye or ear or skin, are inevitable. The +greatest living authorities on lung-diseases pronounce deficient +ventilation the chief cause of consumption, and more fatal _than all other +causes put together_; and, even where food and clothing are both +unwholesome, free air has been found able to counteract their effect. + +In the country the balance ordained in nature has its compensating power. +The poisonous carbonic acid thrown off by lungs and body is absorbed by +vegetation whose food it is, and which in every waving leaf or blade of +grass returns to us the oxygen we demand. Shut in a close room all day, or +even in a tolerably ventilated one, there may be no sense of closeness; +but go to the open air for a moment, and, if the nose has not been +hopelessly ruined by want of education, it will tell unerringly the degree +of oxygen wanting and required. + +It is ordinarily supposed that carbonic-acid gas, being heavier, sinks to +the bottom of the room, and that thus trundle-beds, for instance, are +especially unwholesome. This would be so, were the gas pure. As a matter +of fact, however, being warmed in the body, and thus made lighter, it +rises into the common air, so that usually more will be found at the top +than at the bottom of a room. This gas is, however, not the sole cause of +disease. From both lungs and skin, matter is constantly thrown off, and +floats in the form of germs in all impure air. To a person who by long +confinement to close rooms has become so sensitive that any sudden current +of air gives a cold, ventilation seems an impossibility and a cruelty; and +the problem becomes: How to admit pure air throughout the house, and yet +avoid currents and draughts. "Night-air" is even more dreaded than the +confined air of rooms; yet, as the only air to be had at night must come +under this head, it is safer to breathe that than to settle upon carbonic +acid as lung-food for a third, at least, of the twenty-four hours. As +fires feed on oxygen, it follows that every lamp, every gas-jet, every +furnace, are so many appetites satisfying themselves upon our store of +food, and that, if they are burning about us, a double amount of oxygen +must be furnished. + +The only mode of ventilation that will work always and without fail is +that of a warm-air flue, the upward heated air-current of which draws off +the foul gases from the room: this, supplemented by an opening on the +opposite side of the room for the admission of pure air, will accomplish +the desired end. An open fire-place will secure this, provided the flue is +kept warm by heat from the kitchen fire, or some other during seasons when +the fire-place is not used. But perhaps the simplest way is to have ample +openings (from eight to twelve inches square) at the top and bottom of +each room, opening into the chimney-flue: then, even if a stove is used, +the flue can be kept heated by the extension of the stove-pipe some +distance up within the chimney, and the ascending current of hot air will +draw the foul air from the room into the flue. This, as before stated, +must be completed by a fresh-air opening into the room on another side: if +no other can be had, the top of the window may be lowered a little. The +stove-pipe _extension_ within the chimney would better be of cast-iron, as +more durable than the sheet-iron. When no fire is used in the +sleeping-rooms, the chimney-flue must be heated by pipes from the kitchen +or other fires; and, with the provision for _fresh_ air never forgotten, +this simple device will invariably secure pure and well-oxygenated air for +breathing. "Fussy and expensive," may be the comment; but the expense is +less than the average yearly doctor's bill, and the fussiness nothing that +your own hands must engage in. Only let heads take it in, and see to it +that no neglect is allowed. In a southern climate doors and windows are of +necessity open more constantly; but at night they are closed from the fear +referred to, that night-air holds some subtle poison. It is merely colder, +and perhaps moister, than day-air; and an extra bed-covering neutralizes +this danger. Once accustomed to sleeping with open windows, you will find +that taking cold is impossible. + +If custom, or great delicacy of organization, makes unusual sensitiveness +to cold, have a board the precise width of the window, and five or six +inches high. Then raise the lower sash, putting this under it; and an +upward current of air will be created, which will in great part purify the +room. + +Beyond every thing, watch that no causes producing foul air are allowed to +exist for a moment. A vase of neglected flowers will poison the air of a +whole room. In the area or cellar, a decaying head of cabbage, a basket of +refuse vegetables, a forgotten barrel of pork or beef brine, a neglected +garbage pail or box, are all premiums upon disease. Let air and sunlight +search every corner of the house. Insist upon as nearly spotless +_cleanliness_ as may be, and the second prime necessity of the home is +secure. + +When, as it is written, man was formed from the dust of the earth, the +Lord God "breathed into his nostrils the breath of life; and man became a +_living soul_." + +Shut off that breath of life, or poison it as it is daily poisoned, and +not only body, but soul, dies. The child, fresh from its long day out of +doors, goes to bed quiet, content, and happy. It wakes up a little demon, +bristling with crossness, and determined not to "be good." The breath of +life carefully shut out, death has begun its work, and you are +responsible. And the same criminal blunder causes not only the child's +suffering, but also the weakness which makes many a delicate woman +complain that it "takes till noon to get her strength up." + +Open the windows. Take the portion to which you were born, and life will +grow easier. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. + + +Air and sunshine having been assured for all parts of the house in daily +use, the next question must be an unfailing and full supply of pure water. +"Dig a well, or build near a spring," say the builders; and the well is +dug, or the spring tapped, under the general supposition that water is +clean and pure, simply because it is water, while the surroundings of +either spring or well are unnoticed. Drainage is so comparatively new a +question, that only the most enlightened portions of the country consider +its bearings; and the large majority of people all over the land not only +do not know the interests involved in it, but would resent as a personal +slight any hint that their own water-supply might be affected by deficient +drainage. + +Pure water is simply oxygen and hydrogen, eight-ninths being oxygen and +but one-ninth hydrogen; the latter gas, if pure, having, like oxygen, +neither taste nor smell. Rain-water is the purest type; and, if collected +in open vessels as it falls, is necessarily free from any possible taint +(except at the very first of a rain, when it washes down considerable +floating impurity from the atmosphere, especially in cities). This mode +being for obvious reasons impracticable, cisterns are made, and rain +conducted to them through pipes leading from the roof. The water has thus +taken up all the dust, soot, and other impurities found upon the roof, +and, unless filtered, can not be considered desirable drink. The best +cistern will include a filter of some sort, and this is accomplished in +two ways. Either the cistern is divided into two parts, the water being +received on one side, and allowed to slowly filter through a wall of +porous brick, regarded by many as an amply sufficient means of +purification; or a more elaborate form is used, the division in such case +being into upper and under compartments, the upper one containing the +usual filter of iron, charcoal, sponge, and gravel or sand. If this water +has a free current of air passing over it, it will acquire more sparkle +and character; but as a rule it is flat and unpleasant in flavor, being +entirely destitute of the earthy salts and the carbonic-acid gas to be +found in the best river or spring water. + +Distilled water comes next in purity, and is, in fact, identical in +character with rain-water; the latter being merely steam, condensed into +rain in the great alembic of the sky. But both have the curious property +of taking up and dissolving _lead_ wherever they find it; and it is for +this reason that lead pipes as leaders from or to cisterns should _never_ +be allowed, unless lined with some other metal. + +The most refreshing as well as most wholesome water is river or spring +water, perfectly filtered so that no possible impurity can remain. It is +then soft and clear; has sufficient air and carbonic acid to make it +refreshing, and enough earthy salts to prevent its taking up lead, and so +becoming poisonous. River-water for daily use of course requires a system +of pipes, and in small places is practically unavailable; so that wells +are likely, in such case, to be the chief source of supply. Such water +will of course be spring-water, with the characteristics of the soil +through which it rises. If the well be shallow, and fed by surface +springs, all impurities of the soil will be found in it; and thus to _dig +deep_ becomes essential, for many reasons. Dr. Parker of England, in some +papers on practical hygiene, gives a clear and easily understood statement +of some causes affecting the purity of well-water. + +"A well drains an extent of ground around it, in the shape of an inverted +cone, which is in proportion to its own depth and the looseness of the +soil. In very loose soils a well of sixty or eighty feet will drain a +large area, perhaps as much as two hundred feet in diameter, or even more; +but the exact amount is not, as far as I know, precisely determined. + +"Certain trades pour their refuse water into rivers, gas-works; +slaughter-houses; tripe-houses; size, horn, and isinglass manufactories; +wash-houses, starch-works, and calico-printers, and many others. In houses +it is astonishing how many instances occur of the water of butts, +cisterns, and tanks, getting contaminated by leaking of pipes and other +causes, such as the passage of sewer-gas through overflow-pipes, &c. + +"As there is now no doubt that typhoid-fever, cholera, and dysentery may +be caused by water rendered impure by the evacuations passed in those +diseases, and as simple diarrhoea seems also to be largely caused by +animal organic [matter in] suspension or solution, it is evident how +necessary it is to be quick-sighted in regard to the possible impurity of +water from incidental causes of this kind. Therefore all tanks and +cisterns should be inspected regularly, and any accidental source of +impurity must be looked out for. Wells should be covered; a good coping +put round to prevent substances being washed down; the distances from +cess-pools and dung-heaps should be carefully noted; no sewer should be +allowed to pass near a well. The same precautions should be taken with +springs. In the case of rivers, we must consider if contamination can +result from the discharge of fecal matters, trade refuse, &c." + +Now, suppose all such precautions have been disregarded. Suppose, as is +most usual, that the well is dug near the kitchen-door,--probably between +kitchen and barn; the drain, if there is a drain from the kitchen, pouring +out the dirty water of wash-day and all other days, which sinks through +the ground, and acts as feeder to the waiting well. Suppose the +manure-pile in the barnyard also sends down its supply, and the privies +contribute theirs. The water may be unchanged in color or odor: yet none +the less you are drinking a foul and horrible poison; slow in action, it +is true, but making you ready for diphtheria and typhoid-fever, and +consumption, and other nameless ills. It is so easy to doubt or set aside +all this, that I give one case as illustration and warning of all the +evils enumerated above. + +The State Board of Health for Massachusetts has long busied itself with +researches on all these points, and the case mentioned is in one of their +reports. The house described is one in Hadley, built by a clergyman. "It +was provided with an open well and sink-drain, with its deposit-box in +close proximity thereto, affording facility to discharge its gases in the +well as the most convenient place. The cellar was used, as country cellars +commonly are, for the storage of provisions of every kind, and the +windows were never opened. The only escape for the soil-moisture and +ground-air, except that which was absorbed by the drinking-water, was +through the crevices of the floors into the rooms above. After a few +months' residence in the house, the clergyman's wife died of fever. He +soon married again; and the second wife also died of fever, within a year +from the time of marriage. His children were sick. He occupied the house +about two years. The wife of his successor was soon taken ill, and barely +escaped with her life. A physician then took the house. He married, and +his wife soon after died of fever. Another physician took the house, and +within a few months came near dying of erysipelas. He deserved it. The +house, meanwhile, received no treatment; the doctors, according to their +usual wont, even in their own families, were satisfied to deal with the +consequences, and leave the causes to do their worst. + +"Next after the doctors, a school-teacher took the house, and made a few +changes, for convenience apparently, for substantially it remained the +same; for he, too, escaped as by the skin of his teeth. Finally, after the +foreclosure of many lives, the sickness and fatality of the property +became so marked, that it became unsalable. When at last sold, every sort +of prediction was made as to the risk of occupancy; but, by a thorough +attention to sanitary conditions, no such risks have been encountered." + +These deaths were suicides,--ignorant ones, it is true, not one stopping +to think what causes lay at the bottom of such "mysterious dispensations." +But, just as surely as corn gives a crop from the seed sown, so surely +typhoid fever and diphtheria follow bad drainage or the drinking of +impure water. + +Boiling such water destroys the germs of disease; but neither boiled water +nor boiled germs are pleasant drinking. + +If means are too narrow to admit of the expense attendant upon making a +drain long enough and tight enough to carry off all refuse water to a safe +distance from the house, then adopt another plan. Remember that to throw +dirty water on the ground near a well, is as deliberate poisoning as if +you threw arsenic in the well itself. Have a large tub or barrel standing +on a wheelbarrow or small hand-cart; and into this pour every drop of +dirty water, wheeling it away to orchard or garden, where it will enrich +the soil, which will transform it, and return it to you, not in disease, +but in fruit and vegetables. Also see that the well has a roof, and, if +possible, a lattice-work about it, that all leaves and flying dirt may be +prevented from falling into it. You do not want your water to be a +solution or tincture of dead leaves, dead frogs and insects, or stray mice +or kittens; and this it must be, now and again, if not covered +sufficiently to exclude such chances, _though not the air_, which must be +given free access to it. + +As to hard and soft water, the latter is always most desirable, as soft +water extracts the flavor of tea and coffee far better than hard, and is +also better for all cooking and washing purposes. Hard water results from +a superabundance of lime; and this lime "cakes" on the bottom of +tea-kettles, curdles soap, and clings to every thing boiled in it, from +clothes to meat and vegetables (which last are always more tender if +cooked in soft water; though, if it be too soft, they are apt to boil to a +porridge). + +Washing-soda or borax will soften hard water, and make it better for all +household purposes; but rain-water, even if not desired for drinking, will +be found better than any softened by artificial means. + +If, as in many towns, the supply of drinking-water for many families comes +from the town pump or pumps, the same principles must be attended to. A +well in Golden Square, London, was noted for its especially bright and +sparkling water, so much so that people sent from long distances to secure +it. The cholera broke out; and all who drank from the well became its +victims, though the square seemed a healthy location. Analysis showed it +to be not only alive with a species of fungus growing in it, but also +weighted with dead organic matter from a neighboring churchyard. Every +tissue in the living bodies which had absorbed this water was inflamed, +and ready to yield to the first epidemic; and cholera was the natural +outcome of such conditions. Knowledge should guard against any such +chances. See to it that no open cesspool poisons either air or water about +your home. Sunk at a proper distance from the house, and connected with it +by a drain so tightly put together that none of the contents can escape, +the cesspool, which may be an elaborate, brick-lined cistern, or merely an +old hogshead thoroughly tarred within and without, and sunk in the ground, +becomes one of the most important adjuncts of a good garden. If, in +addition to this, a pile of all the decaying vegetable matter--leaves, +weeds, &c.--is made, all dead cats, hens, or puppies finding burial there; +and the whole closely covered with earth to absorb, as fresh earth has the +power to do, all foul gases and vapors; and if at intervals the pile is +wet through with liquid from the cesspool, the richest form of fertilizer +is secured, and one of the great agricultural duties of man +fulfilled,--that of "returning to the soil, as fertilizers, all the salts +produced by the combustion of food in the human body." + +Where the water-supply is brought into the house from a common reservoir, +much the same rules hold good. We can not of course control the character +of the general supply, but we can see to it that our own water and waste +pipes are in the most perfect condition; that traps and all the best +methods of preventing the escape of sewer-gas into our houses are +provided; that stationary or "set" basins have the plug always in them; +and that every water-closet is provided with a ventilating pipe +sufficiently high and long to insure the full escape of all gases from the +house. Simple disinfectants used from time to time--chloride of lime and +carbolic acid--will be found useful, and the most absolute cleanliness is +at all times the first essential. + +With air and water at their best, the home has a reasonable chance of +escaping many of the sorrows brought by disease or uncertain health; and, +the power to work to the best advantage being secured, we may now pass to +the forms that work must take. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE DAY'S WORK. + + +It is safe to say that no class of women in the civilized world is +subjected to such incessant trials of temper, and such temptation to be +fretful, as the American housekeeper. The reasons for this state of things +are legion; and, if in the beginning we take ground from which the whole +field may be clearly surveyed, we may be able to secure a better +understanding of what housekeeping means, and to guard against some of the +dangers accompanying it. + +The first difficulty lies in taking for granted that successful +housekeeping is as much an instinct as that which leads the young bird to +nest-building, and that no specific training is required. The man who +undertakes a business, passes always through some form of apprenticeship, +and must know every detail involved in the management; but to the large +proportion of women, housekeeping is a combination of accidental forces +from whose working it is hoped breakfasts and dinners and suppers will be +evolved at regular periods, other necessities finding place where they +can. The new home, prettily furnished, seems a lovely toy, and is +surrounded by a halo, which, as facts assert themselves, quickly fades +away. Moth and rust and dust invade the most secret recesses. Breakage and +general disaster attend the progress of Bridget or Chloe. The kitchen +seems the headquarters of extraordinary smells, and the stove an abyss in +its consumption of coal or wood. Food is wasted by bad cooking, or +ignorance as to needed amounts, or methods of using left-over portions; +and, as bills pile up, a hopeless discouragement often settles upon both +wife and husband, and reproaches and bitterness and alienation are guests +in the home, to which they need never have come had a little knowledge +barred them out. + +In the beginning, then, be sure of one thing,--that all the wisdom you +have or can acquire, all the patience and tact and self-denial you can +make yours by the most diligent effort, will be needed every day and every +hour of the day. Details are in themselves wearying, and to most men their +relation to housekeeping is unaccountable. The day's work of a systematic +housekeeper would confound the best-trained man of business. In the +woman's hand is the key to home-happiness, but it is folly to assert that +all lies with her. Let it be felt from the beginning that her station is a +difficult one, that her duties are important, and that judgment and skill +must guide their performance; let boys be taught the honor that lies in +such duties,--and there will be fewer heedless and unappreciative +husbands. On the other hand, let the woman remember that the good general +does not waste words on hindrances, or leave his weak spots open to +observation, but, learning from every failure or defeat, goes on steadily +to victory. To fret will never mend a matter; and "Study to be quiet" in +thought, word, and action, is the first law of successful housekeeping. +Never under-estimate the difficulties to be met, for this is as much an +evil as over-apprehension. The best-arranged plans may be overturned at a +moment's notice. In a mixed family, habits and pursuits differ so widely +that the housekeeper must hold herself in readiness to find her most +cherished schemes set aside. Absolute adherence to a system is only +profitable so far as the greatest comfort and well-being of the family are +affected; and, dear as a fixed routine may be to the housekeeper's mind, +it may often well be sacrificed to the general pleasure or comfort. A +quiet, controlled mind, a soft voice, no matter what the provocation to +raise it may be, is "an excellent thing in woman." And the certainty that, +hard as such control may be, it holds the promise of the best and fullest +life here and hereafter, is a motive strong enough, one would think, to +insure its adoption. Progress may be slow, but the reward for every step +forward is certain. + +We have already found that each day has its fixed routine, and are ready +now to take up the order of work, which will be the same in degree whether +one servant is kept, or many, or none. The latter state of things will +often happen in the present uncertain character of household service. Old +family servants are becoming more and more rare; and, unless the new +generation is wisely trained, we run the risk of being even more at their +mercy in the future than in the past. + +First, then, on rising in the morning, see that a full current of air can +pass through every sleeping-room; remove all clothes from the beds, and +allow them to air at least an hour. Only in this way can we be sure that +the impurities, thrown off from even the cleanest body by the pores during +the night, are carried off. A neat housekeeper is often tempted to make +beds, or have them made, almost at once; but no practice can be more +unwholesome. + +While beds and bedrooms are airing, breakfast is to be made ready, the +table set, and kitchen and dining-room put in order. The kitchen-fire must +first be built. If a gas or oil stove can be used, the operations are all +simpler. If not, it is always best to have dumped the grate the night +before if coal is used, and to have laid the fire ready for lighting. In +the morning brush off all ashes, and wipe or blacken the stove. Strong, +thick gloves, and a neat box for brushes, blacking, &c., will make this a +much less disagreeable operation than it sounds. Rinse out the tea-kettle, +fill it with fresh water, and put over to boil. Then remove the ashes, +and, if coal is used, sift them, as cinders can be burned a large part of +the time where only a moderate fire is desired. + +The table can be set, and the dining or sitting room swept, or merely +brushed up and dusted, in the intervals of getting breakfast. To have +every thing clean, hot, and not only well prepared but ready on time, is +the first law, not only for breakfast, but for every other meal. + +After breakfast comes the dish-washing, dreaded by all beginners, but +needlessly so. With a full supply of all conveniences,--plenty of soap and +sapolio, which is far better and cleaner to use than either sand or ashes; +with clean, soft towels for glass and silver; a mop, the use of which not +only saves the hands but enables you to have hotter water; and a full +supply of coarser towels for the heavier dishes,--the work can go on +swiftly. Let the dish-pan be half full of hot soap and water. _Wash glass +first_, paying no attention to the old saying that "hot water rots glass." +Be careful never to put glass into hot water, bottom first, as the sudden +expansion may crack it. Slip it in edgeways, and the finest and most +delicate cut-glass will be safe. _Wash silver next._ Hot suds, and instant +wiping on dry soft cloths, will retain the brightness of silver, which +treated in this way requires much less polishing, and therefore lasts +longer. If any pieces require rubbing, use a little whiting made into a +paste, and put on wet. Let it dry, and then polish with a chamois-skin. +Once a month will be sufficient for rubbing silver, if it is properly +washed. _China comes next_--all plates having been carefully scraped, and +all cups rinsed out. To fill the pan with unscraped and unrinsed dishes, +and pour half-warm water over the whole, is a method too often adopted; +and the results are found in sticky dishes and lustreless silver. Put all +china, silver, and glass in their places as soon as washed. Then take any +tin or iron pans, wash, wipe with a dry towel, and put near the fire to +dry thoroughly. A knitting-needle or skewer may be kept to dig out corners +unreachable by dishcloth or towel, and if perfectly dried they will remain +free from rust. + +The cooking-dishes, saucepans, &c., come next in order; and here the wire +dish-cloth will be found useful, as it does not scratch, yet answers every +purpose of a knife. Every pot, kettle, and saucepan must be put into the +pan of hot water. If very greasy, it is well to allow them to stand partly +full of water in which a few drops of ammonia have been put. The _outside +must be washed_ as carefully as the inside. Till this is done, there will +always be complaint of the unpleasantness of handling cooking-utensils. +Properly done, they are as clean as the china or glass. + +Plated knives save much work. If steel ones are used, they must be +polished after every meal. In washing them, see that the handles are never +allowed to touch the water. Ivory discolors and cracks if wet. +Bristol-brick finely powdered is the best polisher, and, mixed with a +little water, can be applied with a large cork. A regular knife-board, or +a small board on which you can nail three strips of wood in box form, will +give you the best mode of keeping brick and cork in place. After rubbing, +wash clean, and wipe dry. + +The dish-towels are the next consideration. A set should be used but a +week, and must be washed and rinsed each day if you would not have the +flavor of dried-in dish-water left on your dishes. Dry them, if possible, +in the open air: if not, have a rack, and stand them near the fire. On +washing-days, let those that have been used a week have a thorough +boiling. The close, sour smell that all housekeepers have noticed about +dish-towels comes from want of boiling and drying in fresh air, and is +unpardonable and unnecessary. + +Keep hot water constantly in your kettles or water-pots, by always +remembering to fill with cold when you take out hot. Put away every +article carefully in its place. + +If tables are stained, and require any scrubbing, remember that to wash or +scrub wood you must follow the grain, as rubbing across it rubs the dirt +in instead of taking it off. + +The same rule applies to floors. A clean, coarse cloth, hot suds, and a +good scrubbing-brush, will simplify the operation. Wash off the table; +then dip the brush in the suds, and scour with the grain of the wood. +Finally wash off all soapy water, and wipe dry. To save strength, the +table on which dishes are washed may be covered with kitchen oilcloth, +which will merely require washing and wiping; with an occasional scrubbing +for the table below. + +The table must be cleaned as soon as the dishes are washed, because if +dishes stand upon tables the fragments of food have time to harden, and +the washing is made doubly hard. + +Leaving the kitchen in order, the bedrooms will come next. Turn the +mattresses daily, and make the bed smoothly and carefully. Put the under +sheet with the wrong side next the bed, and the upper one with the marked +end always at the top, to avoid the part where the feet lie, from being +reversed and so reaching the face. The sheets should be large enough to +tuck in thoroughly, three yards long by two and a half wide being none too +large for a double bed. Pillows should be beaten and then smoothed with +the hand, and the aim be to have an even, unwrinkled surface. As to the +use of shams, whether sheet or pillow, it is a matter of taste; but in all +cases, covered or uncovered, let the bed-linen be daintily clean. + +Empty all slops, and with hot water wash out all the bowls, pitchers, &c., +using separate cloths for these purposes, and never toilet towels. Dust +the room, arrange every thing in place, and, if in summer, close the +blinds, and darken till evening, that it may be as cool as possible. + +Sweeping days for bedrooms need come but once a week, but all rooms used +by many people require daily sweeping; halls, passages, and dining and +sitting rooms coming under this head. Careful dusting daily will often do +away with the need of frequent sweeping, which wears out carpets +unnecessarily. A carpet-sweeper is a real economy, both in time and +strength; but, if not obtainable, a light broom carefully handled, not +with a long stroke which sends clouds of dust over every thing, but with a +short quick one, which only experience can give, is next best. For a +thorough sweeping, remove as many articles from the room as possible, +dusting each one thoroughly, and cover the larger ones which must remain +with old sheets or large squares of common unbleached cotton cloth, kept +for this purpose. If the furniture is rep or woolen of any description, +dust about each button, that no moth may find lodgment, and then cover +closely. A feather duster, long or short, as usually applied, is the enemy +of cleanliness. Its only legitimate use is for the tops of pictures or +books and ornaments; and such dusting should be done _before_ the room is +swept, as well as afterward, the first one removing the heaviest coating, +which would otherwise be distributed over the room. For piano, and +furniture of delicate woods generally, old silk handkerchiefs make the +best dusters. For all ordinary purposes, squares of old cambric, hemmed, +and washed when necessary, will be found best. Insist upon their being +kept for this purpose, and forbid the use of toilet towels, always a +temptation to the average servant. Remember that in dusting, the process +should be a _wiping_; not a flirting of the cloth, which simply sends the +dust up into the air to settle down again about where it was before. + +If moldings and wash-boards or wainscotings are wiped off with a damp +cloth, one fruitful source of dust will be avoided. For all intricate work +like the legs of pianos, carved backs of furniture, &c., a pair of small +bellows will be found most efficient. Brooms, dust-pan, and brushes long +and short, whisk-broom, feather and other dusters, should have one fixed +place, and be returned to it after every using. If oil-cloth is on halls +or passages, it should be washed weekly with warm milk and water, a quart +of skim-milk to a pail of water being sufficient. Never use soap or +scrubbing-brush, as they destroy both color and texture. + +All brass or silver-plated work about fire-place, doorknobs, or bath-room +faucets, should be cleaned once a week and before sweeping. For silver, +rub first with powdered whiting moistened with a little alcohol or hot +water. Let it dry on, and then polish with a dry chamois-skin. If there is +any intricate work, use a small toothbrush. Whiting, silver-soap, cloths, +chamois, and brushes should all be kept in a box together. In another may +be the rotten-stone necessary for cleaning brass, a small bottle of oil, +and some woolen cloths. Old merino or flannel under-wear makes excellent +rubbing-cloths. Mix the rotten-stone with enough oil to make a paste; rub +on with one cloth, and polish with another. Thick gloves can be worn, and +all staining of the hands avoided. + +The bedrooms and the necessary daily sweeping finished, a look into cellar +and store-rooms is next in order,--in the former, to see that no decaying +vegetable matter is allowed to accumulate; in the latter, that bread-jar +or boxes are dry and sweet, and all stores in good condition. + +Where there are servants, it should be understood that the mistress makes +this daily progress. Fifteen minutes or half an hour will often cover the +time consumed; but it should be a fixed duty never omitted. A look into +the refrigerator or meat-safe to note what is left and suggest the best +use for it; a glance at towels and dish-cloths to see that all are clean +and sweet, and another under all sinks and into each pantry,--will prevent +the accumulation of bones and stray bits of food and dirty rags, the +paradise of the cockroach, and delight of mice and rats. A servant, if +honest, will soon welcome such investigation, and respect her mistress the +more for insisting upon it, and, if not, may better find other quarters. +One strong temptation to dishonesty is removed where such inspection is +certain, and the weekly bills will be less than in the house where matters +are left to take care of themselves. + +The preparation of dinner if at or near the middle of the day, and the +dish-washing which follows, end the heaviest portion of the day's work; +and the same order must be followed. Only an outline can be given; each +family demanding variations in detail, and each head of a family in time +building up her own system. Remember, however, that, if but one servant is +kept, she can not do every thing, and that your own brain must constantly +supplement her deficiencies, until training and long practice have made +your methods familiar. Even then she is likely at any moment to leave, and +the battle to begin over again; and the only safeguard in time of such +disaster is personal knowledge as to simplest methods of doing the work, +and inexhaustible patience in training the next applicant, finding comfort +in the thought, that, if your own home has lost, that of some one else is +by so much the gainer. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH. + + +The popular idea of a fire to cook by seems to be, a red-hot top, the +cover of every pot and saucepan dancing over the bubbling, heaving +contents, and coal packed in even with the covers. Try to convince a +servant that the lid need not hop to assure boiling, nor the fire rise +above the fire-box, and there is a profound skepticism, which, even if not +expressed, finds vent in the same amount of fuel and the same general +course of action as before the remonstrance. + +The modern stove has brought simplicity of working, and yet the highest +point of convenience, nearly to perfection. With full faith that the fuel +of the future will be gas, its use is as yet, for many reasons, very +limited; the cost of gas in our smaller cities and towns preventing its +adoption by any but the wealthy, who are really in least need of it. With +the best gas-stoves, a large part of the disagreeable in cooking is done +away. No flying ashes, no cinders, no uneven heat, affected by every +change of wind, but a steady flame, regulated to any desired point, and, +when used, requiring only a turn of the hand to end the operation. + +Ranges set in a solid brick-work are considered the best form of +cooking-apparatus; but there are some serious objections to their use, +the first being the large amount of fuel required, and then the intense +heat thrown out. Even with water in the house, they are not a necessity. A +water-back, fully as effectual as the range water-back, can be set in any +good stove, and connected with a boiler, large or small, according to the +size of the stove; and for such stove, if properly managed, only about +half the amount of coal will be needed. + +Fix thoroughly in your minds the directions for making and keeping a fire; +for, by doing so, one of the heaviest expenses in housekeeping can be +lessened fully half. + +First, then, remove the covers, and gather all ashes and cinders from the +inside top of the stove, into the grate. Now put on the covers; shut the +doors; close all the draughts, and dump the contents of the grate into the +pan below. In some stoves there is an under-grate, to which a handle is +attached; and, this grate being shaken, the ashes pass through to the +ash-pan, and the cinders remain in the grate. In that case, they can +simply be shoveled out into the extra coal-hod, all pieces of clinker +picked out, and a little water sprinkled on them. If all must be dumped +together, a regular ash-sifter will be required, placed over a barrel +which receives the ashes, while the cinders remain, and are to be treated +as described. + +Into the grate put shavings or paper, or the fat pine known as lightwood. +If the latter be used, paper is unnecessary. Lay on some small sticks of +wood, _crossing them_ so that there may be a draught through them; add +then one or two sticks of hard wood, and set the shavings or paper on +fire, seeing that every draught is open. As soon as the wood is well on +fire, cover with about six inches of coal, the smaller, or nut-coal, being +always best for stove use. When the coal is burning brightly, shut up all +the dampers save the slide in front of the grate, and you will have a fire +which will last, without poking or touching in any way, four hours. Even +if a little more heat is needed for ovens, and you open the draughts, this +rule still holds good. + +Never, for any reason, allow the coal to come above the edge of the +fire-box or lining. If you do, ashes and cinders will fall into the +oven-flues, and they will soon be choked up, and require cleaning. Another +reason also lies in the fact that the stove-covers resting on red-hot +coals soon burn out, and must be renewed; whereas, by carefully avoiding +such chance, a stove may be used many years without crack or failure of +any sort. + +If fresh heat is required for baking or any purpose after the first four +hours, let the fire burn low, then take off the covers, and with the poker +_from the bottom_ rake out all the ashes thoroughly. Then put in two or +three sticks of wood, fill as before with fresh coal, and the fire is good +for another four hours or more. If only a light fire be required after +dinner for getting tea, rake only slightly; then, fill with _cinders_, and +close all the dampers. Half an hour before using the stove, open them, and +the fire will rekindle enough for any ordinary purpose. As there is great +difference in the "drawing" of chimneys, the exact time required for +making a fire can not be given. + +In using wood, the same principles apply; but of course the fire must be +fed much oftener. Grate-fires, as well as those in the ordinary stove, are +to be made in much the same way. In a grate, a blower is fastened on until +the coal is burning well; but, if the fire is undisturbed after its +renewal, it should burn from six to eight hours without further attention. +Then rake out the ashes, add coal, put on the blower a few minutes, and +then proceed as before. If an exceedingly slow fire is desired, cover the +top with cinders, or with ashes moistened with water. In making a grate or +stove fire, keep a coarse cloth to lay before it, that ashes may not spoil +the carpet; and wipe about the fire-place with a damp, coarse cloth. In +putting on coal in a sick-room, where noise would disturb the patient, it +is a good plan to put it in small paper bags or in pieces of newspaper, in +which it can be laid on silently. A short table of degrees of heat in +various forms of fuel is given below; the degree required for baking, &c, +finding place when we come to general operations in cooking. + + DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL. + +Willow charcoal 600° _Fah._ +Ordinary charcoal 700° _Fah._ +Hard wood 800° to 900° _Fah._ +Coal 1000° _Fah._ + +_Lights_ are next in order. Gas hardly requires mention, as the care of it +is limited to seeing that it is not turned too high, the flame in such +case not only vitiating the air of the room with double speed, but leaving +a film of smoke upon every thing in it. Kerosene is the oil most largely +used for lamps; and the light from either a student-lamp, or the lamp to +which a "student-burner" has been applied, is the purest and steadiest now +in use. A few simple rules for the care of lamps will prevent, not only +danger of explosion, but much breakage of chimneys, smoking, &c. + +1. Let the wick always touch the bottom of the lamp, and see that the top +is trimmed square and even across, with a pair of scissors kept for the +purpose. + +2. Remember that a lamp, if burned with only a little oil in it, generates +a gas which is liable at any moment to explode. Fill lamps to within half +an inch of the top. If filled brimming full, the outside of the lamp will +be constantly covered with the oil, even when unlighted; while as soon as +lighted, heat expanding it, it will run over, and grease every thing near +it. + +3. In lighting a lamp, turn the wick up gradually, that the chimney may +heat slowly: otherwise the glass expands too rapidly, and will crack. + +4. Keep the wick turned high enough to burn freely. Many persons turn down +the wick to save oil, but the room is quickly poisoned by the evil smell +from the gas thus formed. If necessary, as in a sick-room, to have little +light, put the lamp in the hall or another room, rather than to turn it +down. + +5. Remember, that, as with the fire, plenty of fresh air is necessary for +a free blaze, and that your lamp must be kept as free from dirt as the +stove from ashes. In washing the chimneys, use hot suds; and wipe with +bits of newspaper, which not only dry the glass better than a cloth, but +polish it also. + +6. In using either student-lamps, whether German or American, or the +beautiful and costly forms known as moderator-lamps, remember, that, to +secure a clear flame, the oil which accumulates in the cup below the wick, +as well as any surplus which has overflowed from the reservoir, must be +_poured out daily_. The neglect of this precaution is the secret of much +of the trouble attending the easy getting out of order of expensive lamps, +which will cease to be sources of difficulty if this rule be followed +carefully. + +7. Keep every thing used in such cleaning in a small box; the ordinary +starch-box with sliding lid being excellent for this purpose. Extra wicks, +lamp-scissors, rags for wiping off oil, can all find place here. See that +lamp-rags are burned now and then, and fresh ones taken; as the smell of +kerosene is very penetrating, and a room is often made unpleasant by the +presence of dirty lamp-rags. If properly cared for, lamps need be no more +offensive than gas. + +_Things_ to work with. + +We have settled that our kitchen shall be neat, cheerful, and sunny, with +closets as much as possible near enough together to prevent extra steps +being taken. If the servant is sufficiently well-trained to respect the +fittings of a well-appointed kitchen, and to take pleasure in keeping them +in order, the whole apparatus can be arranged in the kitchen-closets. If, +however, there is any doubt on this point, it will be far better to have +your own special table, and shelf or so above it, where the utensils +required for your own personal use in delicate cooking can be arranged. + +In any kitchen not less than two tables are required: one for all rough +work,--preparing meat, vegetables, &c, and dishing up meals; the other for +general convenience. The first must stand as near the sink and fire as +possible; and close to it, on a dresser, which it is well to have just +above the table and within reach of the hand, should be all the essentials +for convenient work, namely:-- + +A meat-block or board; + +A small meat-saw; + +A small cleaver and meat-knife; + +Spoons, skewers, vegetable-cutters, and any other small conveniences used +at this table, such as potato-slicer, larding and trussing needles, &c.; + +A chopping-knife and wooden tray or bowl; + +Rolling-pin, and bread and pastry board; + +Narrow-bladed, very sharp knife for paring, the French cook-knife being +the best ever invented for this purpose. + +A deep drawer in the table for holding coarse towels and aprons, balls of +twine of two sizes, squares of cloth used in boiling delicate fish or +meats, &c., will be found almost essential. Basting-spoons and many small +articles can hang on small hooks or nails, and are more easily picked up +than if one must feel over a shelf for them. These will be egg-beaters, +graters, ladle, &c. The same dresser, or a space over the sink, must hold +washing-pans for meat and vegetables, dish-pans, tin measures from a gill +up to one quart, saucepans, milk-boiler, &c. Below the sink, the closet +for iron-ware can be placed, or, if preferred, be between sink and stove. +A list in detail of every article required for a comfortably-fitted-up +kitchen is given at the end of the book. House-furnishing stores furnish +elaborate and confusing ones. The present list is simply what is needed +for the most efficient work. Of course, as you experiment and advance, it +may be enlarged; but the simple outfit can be made to produce all the +results likely to be needed, and many complicated patent arrangements are +hindrances, rather than helps. + +The _Iron-ware_ closet must hold at least two iron pots, frying-pans large +and small, and a Scotch kettle with frying-basket for oysters, fish-balls, +&c.,--this kettle being a broad shallow one four or five inches deep. +Roasting-pans, commonly called dripping-pans, are best of Russia iron. + +_Tin-ware_ must include colander, gravy and jelly strainers, and +vegetable-sifter or _purée_-sieve; six tin pie-plates, and from four to +six jelly-cake tins with straight edges; and at least one porcelain-lined +kettle, holding not less than four quarts, while a three-gallon one for +preserving and canning is also desirable; + +Muffin rings or pans; "gem-pans;" + +Four bread-tins, of best tin (or, better still, Russia iron), the best +size for which is ten inches long by four wide and four deep; the loaf +baked in such pan requiring less time, and giving a slice of just the +right shape and size; + +Cake-tins of various shapes as desired, a set of small tins being +desirable for little cakes. + +A small sifter in basket shape will be found good for cake-making, and a +larger one for bread; and spices can be most conveniently kept in a +spice-caster, which is a stand holding six or eight small labeled +canisters. Near it can also be small tin boxes or glass cans for dried +sweet herbs, the salt-box, &c. + +The _Crockery_ required will be: at least two large mixing-bowls, holding +not less than eight or ten quarts, and intended for bread, cake, and many +other purposes; a bowl with lip to pour from, and also a smaller-sized one +holding about two quarts; half a dozen quart and pint bowls; + +Half a dozen one-and two-quart round or oval pudding-dishes or nappies; + +Several deep plates for use in putting away cold food; + +Blancmange-molds, three sizes; + +One large pitcher, also three-pint and quart sizes; + +Yeast-jar, or, what is better, two or three Mason's glass cans, kept for +yeast. + +This list does not include any crockery for setting a servant's table; +that being governed by the number kept, and other considerations. Such +dishes should be of heavier ware than your own, as they are likely to +receive rougher handling; but there should be a full supply as one means +of teaching neatness. + +_Wooden-ware_ is essential in the shape of a nest of boxes for rice, +tapioca, &c.; and wooden pails for sugar, Graham-flour, &c.; while you +will gradually accumulate many conveniences in the way of jars, stone pots +for pickling, demijohns, &c., which give the store-room, at last, the +expression dear to all thrifty housekeepers. + +Scrubbing and water pails, scrubbing and blacking brushes, soap-dishes, +sand-box, knife-board, and necessities in cleaning, must all find place, +and, having found it, keep it to the end; absolute order and system being +the first condition of comfortable housekeeping. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. + + +Why Monday should be fixed upon as washing-day, is often questioned; but, +like many other apparently arbitrary arrangements, its foundation is in +common-sense. Tuesday has its advantages also, soon to be mentioned; but +to any later period than Tuesday there are serious objections. All +clothing is naturally changed on Sunday; and, if washed before dirt has +had time to harden in the fiber of the cloth, the operation is much +easier. The German custom, happily passing away, of washing only annually +or semi-annually, is both disgusting, and destructive to health and +clothes; the air of whatever room such accumulations are stored in being +poisoned, while the clothes themselves are rubbed to pieces in the +endeavor to get out the long-seated dirt. + +A weekly wash being the necessity if perfect cleanliness exists, the +simplest and best method of thoroughly accomplishing it comes up for +question. While few women are obliged to use their own hands in such +directions, plenty of needy and unskilled workwomen who can earn a living +in no other way being ready to relieve us, it is yet quite as necessary to +know every detail, in order that the best work may be required, and that +where there is ignorance of methods in such work they may be taught. + +The advantages of washing on Tuesday are, that it allows Monday for +setting in order after the necessary rest of Sunday, gives opportunity to +collect and put in soak all the soiled clothing, and so does away with the +objection felt by many good people to performing this operation Sunday +night. + +To avoid such sin, bed-clothing is often changed on Saturday; but it seems +only part of the freshness and sweetness which ought always to make Sunday +the white-day of the week, that such change should be made on that +morning, while the few minutes required for sorting the clothes, and +putting them in water, are quite as legitimate as any needed operation. + +If Monday be the day, then, Saturday night may be chosen for filling the +tubs, supposing the kitchen to be unfurnished with stationary tubs. Sunday +night enough hot water can be added to make the whole just warm--not hot. +Now put in one tub all fine things,--collars and cuffs, shirts and fine +underwear. Bed-linen may be added, or soaked in a separate tub; but +table-linen must of course be kept apart. Last, let the coarsest and most +soiled articles have another. Do not add soap, as if there is any stain it +is likely to set it. If the water is hard, a little borax may be added. +And see that the clothes are pressed down, and well covered with water. + +Monday morning, and the earlier the better (the morning sun drying and +sweetening clothes better than the later), have the boiler full of clean +warm suds. Soft soap may be used, or a bar of hard dissolved in hot water, +and used like soft soap. All the water in which the clothes have soaked +should be drained off, and the hot suds poured on. Begin with the cleanest +articles, which when washed carefully are wrung out, and put in a tub of +warm water. Rinse out from this; rub soap on all the parts which are most +soiled, these parts being bands and sleeves, and put them in the boiler +with cold water enough to cover them. To boil up once will be sufficient +for fine clothes. Then take them out into a tub of clean cold water; rinse +them in this, and then in a tub of water made very slightly blue with the +indigo-bag or liquid indigo. From this water they must be wrung out very +dry, and hung out, always out of doors if possible. A wringer is much +better than wringing by hand, as the latter is more unequal, and also +often twists off buttons. The lines must be perfectly clean. A +galvanized-iron wire is best of all; as it never rusts, and needs only to +be wiped off each week. If rope is used, never leave it exposed to +weather, but bring it in after each washing. A dirty, weather-stained line +will often ruin a nice garment. Leave clothes on the line till perfectly +dry. If any fruit-stains are on napkins or table-cloths, lay the stained +part over a bowl, and pour on boiling water till they disappear. Ink can +be taken out if the spot is washed while fresh, in cold water, or milk and +water; and a little salt will help in taking out wine-stains. Machine-oil +must have a little lard or butter rubbed on the spot, which is then to be +washed in warm suds. Never rub soap directly on any stain, as it sets it. +For iron-rust, spread the garment in the sun, and cover the spot with +salt; then squeeze on lemon-juice enough to wet it. This is much safer and +quite as sure as the acids sold for this purpose. In bright sunshine the +spot will disappear in a few hours. + +Remember that long boiling does not improve clothes. If washed clean, +simply scalding is all that is required. + +If delicate curtains, either lace or muslin, are to be washed, allow a +tablespoonful of powdered borax to two gallons of warm water, and soap +enough to make a strong suds. Soak the curtains in this all night. In the +morning add more warm water, and press every part between the hands, +without rubbing. Put them in fresh suds, and, if the water still looks +dark after another washing, take still another. Boil and rinse as in +directions given for other clothes. Starch with very thick hot starch, and +dry, not by hanging out, and then ironing, but by putting a light common +mattress in the sun, and pinning the curtain upon it, stretching carefully +as you pin. One mattress holds two, which will dry in an hour or two. If +there is no sun, lay a sheet on the floor of an unused room, and pin the +curtains down upon it. + +In washing flannels, remember that it must be done in a sunny day, that +they may dry as rapidly as possible. Put them into hot suds. Do not rub +them on a washing-board, as this is one means of fulling and ruining them. +Press and rub them in the hands, changing them soon to fresh hot suds. +Rinse in a pail of clear hot water; wring very dry; shake, and hang at +once in the sun. Flannels thus treated, no matter how delicate, retain +their softness and smoothness, and do not shrink. + +Starch is the next consideration, and is made in two ways,--either raw or +boiled. Boiled starch is made by adding cold water to raw starch in the +proportion of one cup of water to three-quarters of a cup of starch, and +then pouring on boiling water till it has thickened to a smooth mass, +constantly stirring as you pour. A bit of butter is added by many +excellent laundresses, the bit not to be larger than a filbert. Any thing +starched with boiled starch must be dried and sprinkled before ironing, +while with raw starch this is not necessary. + +To make raw starch, allow four even tablespoonfuls to a half-pint of cold +water. Dip collars, cuffs, and shirt-bosoms, or any thing which must be +very stiff, into this starch, being careful to have them dry. When wet, +clap them well between the hands, as this distributes the starch evenly +among the fibers of the cloth. The same rule must be followed in using +boiled starch. Roll the articles in a damp cloth, as this makes them iron +more smoothly; and in an hour they will be ready for the iron. In using +boiled starch, after the articles have been dried, and then dampened by +sprinkling water lightly upon them, either by the hand, or by shaking over +them a small whisk-broom which is dipped as needed in water, it is better +to let them lie ten or twelve hours. + +All clothes require this folding and dampening. Sheets and table-cloths +should be held by two persons, shaken and "snapped," and then folded +carefully, stretching the edges if necessary. + +Colored clothing must be rinsed before starching, and the starch should be +thin and cool. + +For ironing neatly and well, there will be required, half a dozen +flat-irons, steel bottoms preferred; a skirt-board and bosom-board, both +covered, first with old blanket or carpet, then with thick strong +cotton-cloth, and over this a cover of lighter cloth, sewed on so that it +may be removed as often as may be necessary to wash it. If a bag the size +of each is made, and they are hung up in this as soon as used, such +washing need very seldom be. Having these, many dispense with +ironing-sheet and blanket; but it is better to use a table for all large +articles, and on this the ironing-sheet can be pinned, or tied by tapes, +or strips of cloth, sewed to each corner. A stand on which to set the +irons, a paper and coarse cloth to rub them off on, and a bit of yellow +wax tied in a cloth, and used to remove any roughness from the iron, are +the requirements of the ironing-table. + +Once a month, while the irons are still slightly warm, wash them in warm +water in which a little lard has been melted. Never let them stand day +after day on the stove, and never throw cold water on them, as it makes +them very rough. + +If the starch clings to the irons, put a little Bristol-brick on a board, +and rub them up and down till free. If they are too hot for use, put in a +current of air a few moments; and in all cases try them on a piece of +paper or cloth before putting them on a garment. If through carelessness +or accident an article is scorched, lay it in the hottest sunshine to be +found. If the fiber is not burned, this will often take the spot entirely +out. + +Let the ironed clothes hang in the air for at least twenty-four hours +after ironing. Unaired sheets have often brought on fatal sickness. +Examine all clothes sent up from the wash. If the laundress is sure this +inspection will take place, it is a constant spur to working in the best +way, and a word of praise for good points is always a stimulus. Mending +should be done as the clothes are looked over, before putting away. Place +the sheets from each wash at the bottom of the pile, that the same ones +may not be used over and over, but all come in rotation; and the same with +table-linen. If the table-cloth in use is folded carefully in the creases, +and kept under a heavy piece of plank, it will retain a fresh look till +soiled. Special hints as to washing blankets and dress-materials will be +given in the latter part of the book. + +However carefully and neatly a house may be kept, it requires a special +putting in order, known as _House-cleaning_, at least once a year. Spring +and fall are both devoted to it in New England; and, if the matter be +conducted quietly, there are many advantages in the double cleaning. In a +warmer climate, where insect-life is more troublesome and the reign of +flies lasts longer, two cleanings are rather a necessity. As generally +managed, they are a terror to every one, and above all to gentlemen, who +resent it from beginning to end. No wonder, if at the first onslaught all +home comfort ends, and regular meals become irregular lunches, and a quiet +night's rest something sought but not found. + +A few simple rules govern here, and will rob the ordeal of half its +terrors. + +If coal or wood are to be laid in for the year's supply, let it be done +before cleaning begins, as much dust is spread through the house in such +work. + +Heavy carpets do not require taking up every year; once in two, or even +three, being sufficient unless they are in constant use. Take out the +tacks, however, each year; fold back the carpet half a yard or so; have +the floor washed with a strong suds in which borax has been dissolved,--a +tablespoonful to a pail of water; then dust black pepper along the edges, +and retack the carpet. By this means moths are kept away; and, as their +favorite place is in corners and folds, this laying back enables one to +search out and destroy them. + +Sapolio is better than sand for scouring paint, and in all cases a little +borax in the water makes such work easier. + +Closets should be put in order first; all winter clothing packed in +trunks, or put in bags made from several thicknesses of newspaper, +printers' ink being one of the most effectual protections against moths. +Gum-camphor is also excellent; and, if you have no camphor-wood chest or +closet, a pound of the gum, sewed into little bags, will last for years. +In putting away clothing, blankets, &c., look all over, and brush and +shake with the utmost care before folding, in order to get rid of any +possible moth-eggs. + +If matting is used, wipe it with borax-water, using a cloth wet enough to +dampen but _not_ wet. + +Window-glass thoroughly washed can be dried and polished with old +newspapers; or whiting can be used, and rubbed off with a woolen cloth. + +Hard-wood furniture, black walnut, or other varieties, requires oiling +lightly with boiled linseed oil, and rubbing dry with a woolen cloth; and +varnished furniture, mahogany or rosewood, if kept carefully dusted, +requires only an occasional rubbing with chamois-skin or thick flannel to +retain its polish perfectly. Soap should never be used on varnish of any +sort. + +Ingrain and other carpets, after shaking, are brightened in color by +sprinkling a pound or two of salt over the surface, and sweeping +carefully; and it is also useful to occasionally wipe off a carpet with +borax-water, using a thick flannel, and taking care not to wet, but only +dampen the carpet. Mirrors can be cleaned with whiting. Never scrub +oil-pictures: simply wipe with a damp cloth, and, if picture-cord is used, +wipe it off to secure against moths. + +It is impossible to cover the whole ground of cleaning in this chapter. +Experience is the best teacher. Only remember that a household earthquake +is not necessary, and that the whole work can be done so gradually, +quietly, and systematically, that only the workers need know much about +it. The sense of purity transfused through the air and breathing from +every nook and corner should be the only indication that upheaval has +existed. The best work is always in silence. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. + + +"The lamp of life" is a very old metaphor for the mysterious principle +vitalizing nerve and muscle; but no comparison could be so apt. The +full-grown adult takes in each day, through lungs and mouth, about eight +and a half pounds of dry food, water, and the air necessary for breathing +purposes. Through the pores of the skin, the lungs, kidneys, and lower +intestines, there is a corresponding waste; and both supply and waste +amount in a year to one and a half tons, or three thousand pounds. + +The steadiness and clear shining of the flame of a lamp depend upon +quality, as well as amount of the oil supplied, and, too, the texture of +the wick; and so all human life and work are equally made or marred by the +food which sustains life, as well as the nature of the constitution +receiving that food. + +Before the nature and quality of food can be considered, we must know the +constituents of the body to be fed, and something of the process through +which digestion and nutrition are accomplished. + +I shall take for granted that you have a fairly plain idea of the stomach +and its dependences. Physiologies can always be had, and for minute +details they must be referred to. Bear in mind one or two main points: +that all food passes from the mouth to the stomach, an irregularly-shaped +pouch or bag with an opening into the duodenum, and from thence into the +larger intestine. From the mouth to the end of this intestine, the whole +may be called the alimentary canal; a tube of varying size and some +thirty-six feet in length. The mouth must be considered part of it, as it +is in the mouth that digestion actually begins; all starchy foods +depending upon the action of the saliva for genuine digestion, saliva +having some strange power by which starch is converted into sugar. +Swallowed whole, or placed directly in the stomach, such food passes +through the body unchanged. Each division of the alimentary canal has its +own distinct digestive juice, and I give them in the order in which they +occur. + +First, The saliva; secreted from the glands of the mouth:--alkaline, +glairy, adhesive. + +Second, The gastric juice; secreted in the inner or third lining of the +stomach,--an acid, and powerful enough to dissolve all the fiber and +albumen of flesh food. + +Third, The pancreatic juice; secreted by the pancreas, which you know in +animals as sweetbreads. This juice has a peculiar influence upon fats, +which remain unchanged by saliva and gastric juice; and not until +dissolved by pancreatic juice, and made into what chemists call an +_emulsion_, can they be absorbed into the system. + +Fourth, The bile; which no physiologist as yet thoroughly understands. We +know its action, but hardly _why_ it acts. It is a necessity, however; for +if by disease the supply be cut off, an animal emaciates and soon dies. + +Fifth, The intestinal juice; which has some properties like saliva, and is +the last product of the digestive forces. + +A meal, then, in its passage downward is first diluted and increased in +bulk by a watery fluid which prepares all the starchy portion for +absorption. Then comes a still more profuse fluid, dissolving all the +meaty part. Then the fat is attended to by the stream of pancreatic juice, +and at the same time the bile pours upon it, doing its own work in its own +mysterious way; and last of all, lest any process should have been +imperfect, the long canal sends out a juice having some of the properties +of all. + +Thus each day's requirements call for + + PINTS. + +Of saliva 3-3/4 + gastric juice 12 + bile 3-3/4 + pancreatic juice 1-1/2 + intestinal juice 1/2 + ------- + 21-1/2 + +Do not fancy this is all wasted or lost. Very far from it: for the whole +process seems to be a second circulation, as it were; and, while the blood +is moving in its wonderful passage through veins and arteries, another +circulation as wonderful, an endless current going its unceasing round so +long as life lasts, is also taking place. But without food the first would +become impossible; and the quality of food, and its proper digestion, mean +good or bad blood as the case may be. We must follow our mouthful of food, +and see how this action takes place. + +When the different juices have all done their work, the _chyme_, which is +food as it passes from the stomach into the duodenum or passage to the +lower stomach or bowels, becomes a milky substance called _chyle_, which +moves slowly, pushed by numberless muscles along the bowel, which squeeze +much of it into little glands at the back of the bowels. These are called +the mesenteric glands; and, as each one receives its portion of chyle, a +wonderful thing happens. About half of it is changed into small round +bodies called corpuscles, and they float with the rest of the milky fluid +through delicate pipes which take it to a sort of bag just in front of the +spine. To this bag is fastened another pipe or tube--the thoracic +duct--which follows the line of the spine; and up this tube the small +bodies travel till they come to the neck and a spot where two veins meet. +A door in one opens, and the transformation is complete. The small bodies +are raw food no more, but blood, traveling fast to where it may be +purified, and begin its endless round in the best condition. For, as you +know, venous blood is still impure and dirty blood. Before it can be +really alive it must pass through the veins to the right side of the +heart, flow through into the upper chamber, then through another door or +valve into the lower, where it is pumped out into the lungs. If these +lungs are, as they should be, full of pure air, each corpuscle is so +charged with oxygen, that the last speck of impurity is burned up, and it +goes dancing and bounding on its way. That is what health means: perfect +food made into perfect blood, and giving that sense of strength and +exhilaration that we none of us know half as much about as we should. We +get it sometimes on mountain-tops in clear autumn days when the air is +like wine; but God meant it to be our daily portion, and this very +despised knowledge of cookery is to bring it about. If a lung is +imperfect, supplied only with foul air as among the very poor, or diseased +as in consumption, food does not nourish, and you now know why. We have +found that the purest air and the purest water contain the largest +proportion of oxygen; and it is this that vitalizes both food and, through +food, the blood. + +To nourish this body, then, demands many elements; and to study these has +been the joint work of chemists and physiologists, till at last every +constituent of the body is known and classified. Many as these +constituents are, they are all resolved into the simple elements, oxygen, +hydrogen, nitrogen, and carbon, while a little sulphur, a little +phosphorus, lime, chlorine, sodium, &c., are added. + +FLESH and BLOOD are composed of water, fat, fibrine, albumen, gelatine, +and the compounds of lime, phosphorus, soda, potash, magnesia, iron, &c. + +BONE contains cartilage, gelatine, fat, and the salts of lime, magnesia, +soda, &c., in combination with phosphoric and other acids. + +CARTILAGE consists of chondrine, a substance somewhat like gelatine, and +contains also the salts of sulphur, lime, soda, potash, phosphorus, +magnesia, and iron. + +BILE is made up of water, fat, resin, sugar, cholesterine, some fatty +acids, and the salts of potash, iron, and soda. + +THE BRAIN is made up of water, albumen, fat, phosphoric acid, osmazone, +and salts. + +THE LIVER unites water, fat, and albumen, with phosphoric and other acids, +and lime, iron, soda, and potash. + +THE LUNGS are formed of two substances: one like gelatine; another of the +nature of caseine and albumen, fibrine, cholesterine, iron, water, soda, +and various fatty and organic acids. + +How these varied elements are held together, even science with all its +deep searchings has never told. No man, by whatsoever combination of +elements, has ever made a living plant, much less a living animal. No +better comparison has ever been given than that of Youmans, who makes a +table of the analogies between the human body and the steam-engine, which +I give as it stands. + + +ANALOGIES OF THE STEAM-ENGINE AND THE LIVING BODY. + +_The Steam Engine in Action takes_: + +1. Fuel: coal and wood, both combustible. + +2. Water for evaporation. + +3. Air for combustion. + + +_And Produces_: + +4. A steady boiling heat of 212° by quick combustion. + +5. Smoke loaded with carbonic acid and watery vapor. + +6. Incombustible ashes. + +7. Motive force of simple alternate push and pull in the piston, which, +acting through wheels, bands, and levers, does work of endless variety. + +8. A deficiency of fuel, water, or air, disturbs, then stops the motion. + + +_The Animal Body in Life takes_: + +1. Food: vegetables and flesh, both combustible. + +2. Water for circulation. + +3. Air for respiration. + + +_And Produces_: + +4. A steady animal heat, by slow combustion, of 98°. + +5. Expired breath loaded with carbonic acid and watery vapor. + +6. Incombustible animal refuse. + +7. Motive force of simple alternate contraction and relaxation in the +muscles, which, acting through joints, tendons, and levers, does work of +endless variety. + +8. A deficiency of food, drink, or air, first disturbs, then stops the +motion and the life. + + +Carrying out this analogy, you will at once see why a person working hard +with either body or mind requires more food than the one who does but +little. The food taken into the human body can never be a simple element. +We do not feed on plain, undiluted oxygen or nitrogen; and, while the +composition of the human body includes really sixteen elements in all, +oxygen is the only one used in its natural state. I give first the +elements as they exist in a body weighing about one hundred and fifty-four +pounds, this being the average weight of a full-grown man; and add a +table, compiled from different sources, of the composition of the body as +made up from these elements. Dry as such details may seem, they are the +only key to a full understanding of the body, and the laws of the body, so +far as the food-supply is concerned; though you will quickly find that the +day's food means the day's thought and work, well or ill, and that in your +hands is put a power mightier than you know,--the power to build up body, +and through body the soul, into a strong and beautiful manhood and +womanhood. + + +ELEMENTS OF THE HUMAN BODY. + +---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- + | Lbs. | Oz. | Grs. +---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- +1. Oxygen, a gas, and supporter of combustion, | | | + weighs | 103 | 2 | 335 + | | | +2. Carbon, a solid; found most nearly pure in charcoal. | | | + Carbon in the body combines with other | | | + elements to produce carbonic-acid gas, and by | | | + its burning sets heat free. Its weight is | 18 | 11 | 150 + | | | +3. Hydrogen, a gas, is a part of all bone, blood, and | | | + muscle, and weighs | 4 | 14 | 0 + | | | +4. Nitrogen, a gas, is also part of all muscle, blood, | | | + and bone; weighing | 4 | 14 | 0 + | | | +5. Phosphorus, a solid, found in brain and bones, | | | + weighs | 1 | 12 | 25 + | | | +6. Sulphur, a solid, found in all parts of the body, | | | + weighs | 0 | 8 | 0 + | | | +7. Chlorine, a gas, found in all parts of the body, | | | + weighs | 0 | 4 | 150 + | | | +8. Fluorine, supposed to be a gas, is found with calcium | | | + in teeth and bones, and weighs | 0 | 3 | 300 + | | | +9. Silicon, a solid, found united with oxygen in the | | | + hair, skin, bile, bones, blood, and saliva, weighs | 0 | 0 | 14 + | | | +10. Magnesium, a metal found in union with phosphoric | | | + acid in the bones | 0 | 2 | 250 + | | | +11. Potassium, a metal, the basis of potash, is found | | | + as phosphate and chloride; weighs | 0 | 3 | 340 + | | | +12. Sodium, a metal, basis of soda; weighs | 0 | 3 | 217 + | | | +13. Calcium, a metal, basis of lime, found chiefly in | | | + bones and teeth; weighs | 3 | 13 | 190 + | | | +14. Iron, a metal essential in the coloring of the | | | + blood, and found everywhere in the body; | | | + weighs | 0 | 0 | 65 + | | | +15. Manganese. } Faint traces of both these metals | | | + } | | | +16. Copper metals.} are found in brain and blood, | | | + but in too minute portions to be given by | | | + weight. | | | + |------|-----|----- + Total | 154 | 0 | 0 + +The second table gives the combinations of these elements; and, though a +knowledge of such combinations is not as absolutely essential as the +first, we still can not well dispense with it. The same weight--one +hundred and fifty-four pounds--is taken as the standard. + + +COMPOSITION OF THE BODY. + +---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- + | Lbs. | Oz. | Grs. +---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- +1. Water, which is found in every part of the body, | | | + and amounts to | 109 | 0 | 0 + | | | +2. Fibrine, and like substances, found in the blood, | | | + and forming the chief solid materials of the | | | + flesh | 15 | 10 | 0 + | | | +3. Phosphate of lime, chiefly in bones and teeth, but | | | + in all liquids and tissues | 8 | 12 | 0 + +4. Fat, a mixture of three chemical compounds, | | | + and distributed all through the body | 4 | 8 | 0 + | | | +5. Osseine, the organic framework of bones; boiled, | | | + gives gelatine. Weight | 4 | 7 | 350 + | | | +6. Keratine, a nitrogenous substance, forming the | | | + greater part of hair, nails, and skin. Weighs | 4 | 2 | 0 + | | | +7. Cartilagine resembles the osseine of bone, and is a | | | + nitrogenous substance, the chief constituent of | | | + cartilage, weighing | 1 | 8 | 0 + | | | +8. Hæmoglobine gives the red color to blood, and is | | | + a nitrogenous substance containing iron, and | | | + weighing | 1 | 8 | 0 + | | | +9. Albumen is a soluble nitrogenous substance, | | | + found in the blood, chyle, lymph, and muscle, | | | + and weighs | 1 | 1 | 0 + | | | +10. Carbonate of lime is found in the bones chiefly, | | | + and weighs | 1 | 1 | 0 + | | | +11. Hephalin is found in nerves and brain, with | | | + cerebrine and other compounds | 0 | 13 | 0 + | | | +12. Fluoride of calcium is found in teeth and bones, | | | + and weighs | 0 | 7 | 175 + | | | +13. Phosphate of magnesia is also in teeth and bones, | | | + and weighs | 0 | 7 | 0 + | | | +14. Chloride of sodium, or common salt, is found in | | | + all parts of the body, and weighs | 0 | 7 | 0 + | | | +15. Cholesterine, glycogen, and inosite are compounds | | | + containing hydrogen, oxygen, and carbon, | | | + found in muscle, liver, and brain, and | | | + weighing | 0 | 3 | 0 + | | | +16. Sulphate phosphate, and salts of sodium, found | | | + in all tissues and liquids | 0 | 2 | 107 + | | | +17. Sulphate, phosphate, and chloride of potassium, | | | + are also in all tissues and liquids | 0 | 1 | 300 + | | | +18. Silica, found in hair, skin, and bone | 0 | 0 | 30 + | | | + | --- | --- | --- + | 154 | 0 | 0 + +With this basis, to give us some understanding of the complicated and +delicate machinery with which we must work, the question arises, what food +contains all these constituents, and what its amount and character must +be. The answer to this question will help us to form an intelligent plan +for providing a family with the right nutrition. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +FOOD AND ITS LAWS. + + +We have found, that, in analyzing the constituents of the body, water is +the largest part; and turning to food, whether animal or vegetable, the +same fact holds good. It forms the larger part of all the drinks, of +fruits, of succulent vegetables, eggs, fish, cheese, the cereals, and even +of fats. + +Fat is found in butter, lard, drippings, milk, eggs, cheese, fish, meat, +the cereals, leguminous vegetables,--such as pease and beans,--nuts, +cocoa, and chocolate. + +Sugar abounds in fruits and vegetables, and is found in milk and cereals. + +Starch, which under the action of the saliva changes into glucose or +grape-sugar, is present in vegetables and cereals. + +Flesh foods, called as often nitrogenous foods, from containing so large a +proportion of nitrogen, are made up of fibrine, albumen, caseine, +gelatine, and gluten; the first four elements being present in flesh, the +latter in vegetables. + +Salts of various forms exist in both animal and vegetable food. In meat, +fish, and potatoes are found phosphorus, lime, and magnesia. Common salt +is largely made up of soda, but is found with potash in many vegetables. +This last element is also in meat, fish, milk, vegetables, and fruits. +Iron abounds in flesh and vegetables; and sulphur enters into albumen, +caseine, and fibrine. + +The simplest division of food is into _flesh-formers_ and +_heat-producers_; the former being as often called nitrogenous food, or +albumenoids; the latter, heat-giving or carbonaceous foods. Much minuter +divisions could be made, but these two cover the ground sufficiently well. +For a healthy body both are necessary, but climate and constitution will +always make a difference in the amounts required. Thus, in a keen and +long-continued winter, the most condensed forms of carbonaceous foods will +be needed; while in summer a small portion of nitrogenous food to nourish +muscle, and a large amount of cooling fruits and vegetables, are +indicated; both of these, though more or less carbonaceous in character, +containing so much water as to neutralize any heat-producing effects. + +Muscle being the first consideration in building up a strong body, we need +first to find out the values of different foods as flesh-formers, healthy +flesh being muscle in its most perfect condition. Flesh and fat are never +to be confounded, fat being really a species of disease,--the overloading +of muscle and tissue with what has no rightful place there. There should +be only enough fat to round over the muscle, but never hide its play. The +table given is the one in use in the food-gallery of the South Kensington +Museum, and includes not only the nutritive value, but the cost also, of +each article; taking beef as the standard with which other animal foods +are to be compared, beef being the best-known of all meats. Among +vegetables, lentils really contain most nourishment; but wheat is chosen +as being much more familiar, lentils being very little used in this +country save by the German part of the population, and having so strong +and peculiar a flavor that we are never likely to largely adopt their use. + +About an equal amount of nourishment is found in the varied amounts +mentioned in the table which follows:-- + +TABLE. + + Cost about +Eight ounces of lean beef (half-pound) 6 cts. +Ten ounces of dried lentils 7 cts. +Eleven ounces of pease or beans 5 cts. +Twelve ounces of cocoa-nibs 20 cts. +Fourteen ounces of tea 40 cts. +Fifteen ounces of oatmeal 5 cts. +One pound and one ounce of wheaten flour 4 cts. +One pound and one ounce of coffee 30 cts. +One pound and two ounces of rye-flour 5 cts. +One pound and three ounces of barley 5 cts. +One pound and five ounces Indian meal 5 cts. +One pound and thirteen ounces of buckwheat-flour 10 cts. +Two pounds of wheaten bread 10 cts. +Two pounds and six ounces of rice 20 cts. +Five pounds and three ounces of cabbage 10 cts. +Five pounds and three ounces of onions 15 cts. +Eight pounds and fifteen ounces of turnips 9 cts. +Ten pounds and seven ounces of potatoes 10 cts. +Fifteen pounds and ten ounces of carrots 15 cts. + +Now, because tea, coffee, and cocoa approach so nearly in value as +nutriment to beef and lentils, we must not be misled. Fourteen ounces of +tea are equivalent to half a pound of meat; but a repast of dry tea not +being very usual, in fact, being out of the question altogether, it +becomes plain, that the principal value of these foods, used as we must +use them, in very small quantities, is in the warmth and comfort they +give. Also, these weights (except the bread) are of uncooked food. Eight +ounces of meat would, if boiled or roasted, dwindle to five or six, while +the ten ounces of lentils or beans would swell to twice the capacity of +any ordinary stomach. So, ten pounds of potatoes are required to give you +the actual benefit contained in the few ounces of meat; and only the +Irishman fresh from his native cabin can calmly consider a meal of that +magnitude, while, as to carrots, neither Irishman nor German, nor the most +determined and enterprising American, could for a moment face the +spectacle of fifteen pounds served up for his noonday meal. + +The inference is plain. Union is strength, here as elsewhere; and the +perfect meal must include as many of these elements as will make it not +too bulky, yet borrowing flavor and substance wherever necessary. + +As a rule, the food best adapted to climate and constitution seems to have +been instinctively decided upon by many nations; and a study of national +dishes, and their adaptation to national needs, is curious and +interesting. The Esquimaux or Greenlander finds his most desirable meal in +a lump of raw blubber, the most condensed form of carbonaceous food being +required to preserve life. It is not a perverted taste, but the highest +instinct; for in that cruel cold the body must furnish the food on which +the keen air draws, and the lamp of life there has a very literal supply. + +Take now the other extreme of temperature,--the East Indies, China, +Africa, and part even of the West Indies and America,--and you find rice +the universal food. There is very little call, as you may judge, for +heat-producers, but rather for flesh-formers; and starch and sugar both +fulfill this end, the rice being chiefly starch, which turns into sugar +under the action of the saliva. Add a little melted butter, the East +Indian _ghee_, or olive-oil used in the West Indies instead, and we have +all the elements necessary for life under those conditions. + +A few degrees northward, and the same rice is mingled with bits of fish +or meat, as in the Turkish _pilau_, a dish of rice to which mutton or +poultry is added. + +The wandering Arab finds in his few dates, and handful of parched wheat or +maize, the sugar and starch holding all the heat required, while his +draught of mare's or camel's milk, and his occasional _pilau_ of mutton, +give him the various elements which seem sufficient to make him the model +of endurance, blitheness, and muscular power. So the Turkish +burden-bearers who pick up a two-hundred-pound bag of coffee as one picks +up a pebble, use much the same diet, though adding melons and cucumbers, +which are eaten as we eat apples. + +The noticeable point in the Italian dietary is the universal and profuse +use of macaroni. Chestnuts and Indian corn, the meal of which is made into +a dish called _polenta_, something like our mush, are also used, but +macaroni is found at every table, noble or peasant's. No form of wheat +presents such condensed nourishment, and it deserves larger space on our +own bills of fare than we have ever given it. + +In Spain we find the _olla podrida_, a dish containing, as chief +ingredient, the _garbanzo_ or field-pea: it is a rich stew, of fowls or +bacon, red peppers, and pease. Red pepper enters into most of the dishes +in torrid climates, and there is a good and sufficient reason for this +apparent mistake. Intense and long-continued heat weakens the action of +the liver, and thus lessens the supply of bile; and red pepper has the +power of stimulating the liver, and so assisting digestion. East Indian +curries, and the Mexican and Spanish _olla_, are therefore founded on +common-sense. + +In France the _pot-au-feu_, or soup-pot, simmers in every peasant or +middle-class home, and is not to be despised even in richer ones. In this +dish, a small portion of meat is cooked so judiciously as to flavor a +large mass of vegetables and broth; and this, served with salad and oil +and bread, forms a meal which can hardly be surpassed in its power of +making the most of every constituent offered. In Germany soups are a +national dish also; but their extreme fondness for pork, especially raw +ham and sausage, is the source of many diseases. Sweden, Norway, +Russia,--all the far northern countries,--tend more and more to the oily +diet of the Esquimaux, fish being a large part of it. There is no room for +other illustrations; but, as you learn the properties of food, you will be +able to read national dietaries, from the Jewish down, with a new +understanding of what power food had and has in forming national +peculiarities. + +It is settled, then, that to renew our muscles which are constantly +wearing out, we must eat the food containing the same constituents; and +these we find in meat, milk, eggs, and the entire gluten of grains, &c, as +in wheaten-grits or oatmeal. + +Fat and heat must come to us from the starches and sugars, in sufficient +supply to "put a layer of wadding between muscles and skin, fill out the +wrinkles, and keep one warm." To find out the proportion needed for one's +own individual constitution, is the first work for all of us. The laborer +requires one thing, the growing child another, the man or woman whose +labor is purely intellectual another; and to understand how best to meet +these needs, demands a knowledge to which most of us have been +indifferent. If there is excess or lack of any necessary element, that +excess or lack means disease, and for such disease we are wholly +responsible. Food is not the only and the universal elixir of life; for +weak or poor blood is often an inheritance, and comes to one tainted by +family diseases, or by defects in air or climate in general. But, even +when outward conditions are most disastrous, perfect food has power to +avert or alter their effects; and the child who begins life burdened with +scrofulous or other diseases, and grows to a pale, weak, unwholesome +youth, and either a swift passing into the next world, or a life here of +hopeless invalidism, can, nine times out of ten, have this course of +things stopped by scientific understanding of what foods are necessary for +such conditions. + +I propose to take the life of one who from babyhood up has been fed on the +best food, perfectly prepared, and to give the tables of such food for +different periods in that life, allowing only such digression as will show +the effects of an opposite course of treatment; thus showing the relations +of food to health,--a more necessary and vital form of knowledge than any +other that the world owns. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. + + +We begin, then, with a typical baby, born of civilized parents, and living +in the midst of the best civilization to be had. Savage or even partially +civilized life could never furnish the type we desire. It is true, as we +have seen, that natural laws, so deeply planted that they have become +instincts, have given to many wild nations a dietary meeting their +absolute needs; but only civilization can find the key to these modes, and +make past experience pay tribute to present knowledge. We do not want an +Indian baby, bound and swathed like a little mummy, hanging from the pole +of a wigwam, placidly sucking a fish's tail, or a bone of boiled dog; nor +an Esquimaux baby, with its strip of blubber; nor the Hottentot, with its +rope of jerked beef; nor the South-sea Islander, with its half-cocoanut. +Nor will we admit the average Irish baby, among the laboring classes in +both city and country, brought to the table at three months old to swallow +its portion of coffee or tea; nor the small German, whom at six months I +have seen swallowing its little mug of lager as philosophically as its +serious-faced father. That these babies have fevers and rashes, and a host +of diseases peculiar to that age, is a matter of course; and equally a +matter of course that the round-eyed mother wonders where it got its +dreadful disposition, but scorns the thought that lager or coffee can be +irritants, or that the baby stomach requires but one food, and that one +the universal food of all young animal life,--milk. + +Take, then, our typical baby, lying fresh and sweet in the well aired and +lighted room we suppose to be his birthright. The bones are still soft, +the tender flesh and skin with little or no power of resistance. Muscles, +nerves, all the wonderful tissues, are in process of formation; and in the +strange growth and development of this most helpless yet most precious of +all God's creations, there are certain elements which must be +had,--phosphates to harden the delicate bones; nitrogen for flesh, which +is only developed muscle; carbon,--or sugar and fat, which represent +carbon,--for the whole wonderful course of respiration and circulation. +Water, too, must be in abundance to fill the tiny stomach, which in the +beginning can hold but a spoonful; and to float the blood-corpuscles +through the winding channels whose mysteries, even now, no man has fully +penetrated. Caseine, which is the solid, nourishing, cheesy part of milk, +and abounds in nitrogen, is also needed; and all the salts and alkalies +that we have found to be necessary in forming perfect blood. Let us see if +milk will meet these wants. + + +COMPOSITION OF COW'S MILK. + +(_Supposed to contain 1,000 parts._) + +Water 870.2 +Caseine 44.8 +Butter 31.3 +Sugar 47.7 + ------ +_Carried forward_ 994.0 + +_Brought forward_ 994.0 + +Soda } +Chloride of sodium and potassium} +Phosphate of soda and potassa } +Phosphate of lime } 6.0 +Magnesia } +Iron } +Alkaline carbonates } + ------- + 1,000.0 + +Mother's milk being nearly the same, having only a larger proportion of +water, will for the first year of our baby's life meet every demand the +system can make. Even the first teeth are no sign, as ignorant mothers +believe, that the stomach calls for stronger food. They are known, with +reason, as milk-teeth, and the grinders delay their appearance for months +afterward. A little oatmeal, bread and milk, and various porridges, come +in here, that the bones may harden more rapidly; but that is all. The baby +is in constant motion; and eyes and ears are taking in the mysteries of +the new life, and busy hands testing properties, and little feet walking +into mischief, all day. This is hardly the place to dwell upon the amount +of knowledge acquired from birth to five years of age; yet when you +consider how the mind is reaching in every direction, appropriating, +investigating, drawing conclusions which are the foundation of all our +after-knowledge, you will see that the brain is working with an intensity +never afterwards equaled; and, as brain-work means actual destruction of +brain-fiber, how vital it is that food should be furnished in the right +ratio, and made up of the right elements! + +With the coming of the grinders, and the call of the muscles and tissues +for stronger food, begins the necessity for a more varied dietary. Our +baby now, from two and a half to seven years of age, will require daily:-- + +Bread, not less than 12 ounces. +Butter 1 ounce. +Milk 1/2 pint. +Meat 2 ounces. +Vegetables 6 ounces. +Pudding or gruel 6 ounces. + +This table is made from the dietaries of various children's hospitals, +where long experiment has settled the quantities and qualities necessary +to health, or, as in these cases, recovery from sickness, at which time +the appetite is always keener. + +In many cases physicians who have studied the laws of food, and kept pace +with modern experiments in dietetics, strike out meat altogether till the +child is seven or eight years old, and allow it but once daily after this +time, and in very limited amount. Sir Henry Thompson, one of the most +distinguished of English physicians, and a man noted for his popularity as +diner out and giver of dinners, writes strenuously against the prevailing +excessive use of meat, and especially protests against its over use for +children; and his opinion is shared by most thoughtful medical men. The +nitrogenous vegetables advantageously take its place; and cheese, as +prepared after the formulas given in Mattieu Williams's "Chemistry of +Cookery," is a food the value of which we are but just beginning to +appreciate. + +As to quantity, with the healthy child, playing at will, there need be +very little restraint. Few children will eat too much of perfectly simple +food, such as this table includes. Let cake or pastry or sweetmeats enter +in, and of course, as long as the thing tastes good, the child will beg +for more. English children are confined to this simple diet; and though of +course a less exacting climate has much to do with the greater +healthfulness of the English than the American people, the plain but +hearty and regular diet of childhood has far more. + +Our young American of seven, at a hotel breakfast, would call for coffee +and ham and eggs and sausages and hot cakes. His English cousin would have +no liberty to call for anything. In fact, it is very doubtful if he would +be brought to table at all; and if there, bread and milk or oatmeal and +milk would form his meal. + +By this time I do not doubt our baby has your heartiest pity, and you are +saying, "What! no snacks? no cooky nor cake nor candy? no running to aunt +or grandmother or tender-hearted cook for goodies? If that must be so, +half the pleasure of childhood is lost." + +Perhaps; but suppose that with that pleasure some other things are also +lost. Suppose our baby to have begun life with a nervous, irritable, +sensitive organization, keenly alive to pain, and this hard regimen to +have covered these nerves with firm flesh, and filled the veins with +clean, healthy blood. Suppose headache is unknown, and loss of appetite, +and a bad taste in the mouth, and all the evils we know so well; and that +work and play are easy, and food of the simplest eaten with solid +satisfaction. The child would choose the pleasant taste, and let health +go, naturally; for a child has small reason, and life must be ordered for +it. But if the mother or father has no sense or understanding of the laws +of food, it is useless to hope for the wholesome results that under the +diet of our baby are sure to follow. + +By seven some going to school has begun; and from this time on the diet, +while of the same general character, may vary more from day to day. Habits +of life are fixed during this time; and even if parents dislike certain +articles of food themselves, it is well to give no sign, but as far as +possible, accustom the child to eat any wholesome food. We are a wandering +people, and sooner or later are very likely to have circumnavigated the +globe, at least in part. Our baby must have no antipathies, but every good +thing given by Nature shall at least be tolerated. "I never eat this," or +"I never eat that," is a formula that no educated person has a right to +use save when some food actually hurtful or to which he has a natural +repulsion is presented to him. Certain articles of diet are often +strangely and unaccountably harmful to some. Oysters are an almost deadly +poison to certain constitutions; milk to others. Cheese has produced the +same effect, and even strawberries; yet all these are luxuries to the +ordinary stomach. + +Usually the thing to guard against most carefully is gluttony, so far as +boys are concerned. With girls the tendency often is to eat far too +little. A false delicacy, a feeling that paleness and fragility are +beautiful and feminine, inclines the young girl often to eat less than she +desires; and the stomach accustoms itself to the insufficient supply, till +the reception of a reasonable meal is an impossibility. Or if they eat +improper food (hot breads and much fat and sweets), the same result +follows. Digestion, or rather assimilation, is impossible; and pasty face +and lusterless eyes become the rule. A greedy woman is the exception; and +yet all schoolgirls know the temptation to over-eating produced by a box +of goodies from home, or the stronger temptation, after a school-term has +ended, to ravage all cake-boxes and preserve-jars. Then comes the pill or +powder, and the habit of going to them for a relief which if no excess had +been committed, would have been unnecessary. Patent medicines are the +natural sequence of unwholesome food, and both are outrages on +common-sense. + +We will take it for granted, then, that our baby has come to boyhood and +youth in blissful ignorance of their names or natures. But as we are not +in the least certain what personal tastes he may have developed, or what +form his life-work is to take,--whether professional or mercantile or +artisan in one of the many trades,--we can now only give the regimen best +adapted for each. + +Supposing his tastes to be scholarly, and a college and professional +career to be chosen, the time has come for slight changes in the system of +diet,--very slight, however. It has become a popular saying among thinkers +upon these questions, "Without phosphorus, no thinking;" and like all +arbitrary utterances it has done more harm than good. The amount of +phosphorus passing through the system bears no relation whatever to the +intensity of thought. "A captive lion," to quote from Dr. Chambers, one of +the most distinguished living authorities on diet, "a leopard, or hare, +which can have wonderfully little to think about, assimilates and parts +with a greater quantity of phosphorus than a professor of chemistry +working hard in his laboratory; while a beaver, who always seems to be +contriving something, excretes so little phosphorus that chemical analysis +cannot detect it." + +Phosphatic salts are demanded, but so are other salts, fat, and water; +and the dietaries that order students to live upon fish, eggs, and +oysters, because they are rich in phosphorus, without which the brain +starves, err just so far as they make this the sole reason,--the real +reason being that these articles are all easily digested, and that the +student, leading an inactive muscular life, does not require the heavy, +hearty food of the laborer. + +The most perfect regimen for the intellectual life is precisely what would +be advised for the growing boy: frequent _small_ supplies of +easily-digested food, that the stomach may never be overloaded, or the +brain clouded by the fumes of half-assimilated food. If our boy trains for +a foot-race, rows with the college crew, or goes in for base-ball, his +power as a brain-worker at once diminishes. Strong muscular action and +development hinder continuous mental work; and the literary life, as a +rule, allows no extremes, demanding only mild exercise and temperance as +its foundation-stones. But our boy can well afford to develop his muscular +system so perfectly that his mild exercise would seem to the untrained man +tolerably heavy work. + +The rower in a college crew requires six weeks of training before his +muscular power and endurance have reached their height. Every particle of +superfluous fat must be removed, for fat is not strength, but weakness. +There is a vast difference between the plumpness of good muscular +development and the flabby, heavy overloading of these muscles with rolls +of fat. The chest must be enlarged, that the lungs may have full play, and +be capable of long-continued, extra draughts upon them; and special diet +and special exercise alone can accomplish these ends. All fat-producing +foods are struck out, sugar and all starchy foods coming under this head, +as well as all puddings, pies, cakes, and sweets in general. Our boy, +after a short run, would breakfast on lean, under-done beef or mutton, dry +toast, or the crust of bread, and tea without milk or sugar; would dine on +meat and a little bread and claret, and sup on more meat and toast, with +cresses or some acid fruit, having rowed twice over the course in the +afternoon, steadily increasing the speed, and following it by a bath and +rub. At least nine hours sleep must be had; and with this diet, at the end +of the training-time the muscles are hard and firm, the skin wonderfully +pure and clear, and the capacity for long, steady breathing under +exertion, almost unlimited. No better laws for the reduction of excessive +fat can be laid down for any one. + +Under such a course, severe mental exertion is impossible; and the return +to it requires to be gradual. But light exercise with dumb-bells, &c., +fresh air, walking, and good food are the conditions of all sound mental +work, whether done by man or woman. + +For the clerk or bookkeeper closely confined to desk or counter, much the +same regimen is needed, with brisk exercise at the beginning and end of +the day,--at least always walking rather than riding to and from the +office or store; while in all the trades where hard labor is necessary, +heartier food must be the rule. And for all professions or trades, the +summing-up is the same: suitable food, fresh air, sunlight, and perfect +cleanliness,--the following of these laws insuring the perfect use of +every power to the very end. + +As old age advances, the food-demand lessens naturally. Nourishing food +is still necessary, but taken in much smaller quantities and more often, +in order that the waning powers of the stomach may not be overtaxed. +Living on such principles, work can go on till the time for work is over, +and the long sleep comes as quietly as to a tired child. Simple +common-sense and self-control will free one once for all from the fear, +too often hanging over middle life, of a paralytic and helpless +invalidism, or the long train of apoplectic symptoms often the portion +even of middle life. + +I omit detail as to the character and effects of tea, coffee, alcohol, &c, +such details coming in the chapters on the chemistry of food. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. + + +Animal food has a wider range than is usually included under that head. +The vegetarian who announces that no animal food is allowed upon his table +offers a meal in which one finds milk, eggs, butter, and cheese,--all +forms of animal food, and all strongly nourishing. A genuine vegetarian, +if consistent, would be forced to reject all of these; and it has already +been attempted in several large water-cures by enthusiasts who have laid +aside their common-sense, and resigned with it some of the most essential +forces for life and work. Meat may often be entirely renounced, or eaten +only at rare intervals, with great advantage to health and working power, +but the dietary for the varied nourishment which seems demanded must +include butter, cheese, eggs, and milk. + +Meats will be regarded as essential by the majority, and naturally they +come first in considering food; and beef is taken as the standard, being +identical in composition with the structures of the human body. + +BEEF, if properly fed, is in perfection at seven years old. It should then +be a light red on the cut surface, a darker red near the bone, and +slightly marbled with fat. Beef contains, in a hundred parts, nearly +twenty of nitrogen, seventy-two of water, four of fat, and the remainder +in salts of various descriptions. The poorer the quality of the beef, the +more it will waste in cooking; and its appearance before cooking is also +very different from that of the first quality, which, though looking +moist, leaves no stain upon the hand. In poor beef, the watery part seems +to separate from the rest, which lies in a pool of serous bloody fluid. +The gravy from such beef is pale and poor in flavor; while the fat, which +in healthy beef is firm and of a delicate yellow, in the inferior quality +is dark yellow and of rank smell and taste. Beef is firmer in texture and +more satisfying to the stomach than any other form of meat, and is usually +considered more strengthening. + +MUTTON is a trifle more digestible, however. A healthy person would not +notice this, the digestive power in health being more than is necessary +for the ordinary meal; but the dyspeptic will soon find that mutton gives +his stomach less work. Its composition is very nearly the same as that of +beef; and both when cooked, either by roasting or boiling, lose about a +third of their substance, and come to us with twenty-seven parts of +nitrogen, fifteen of fat, fifty-four of water, and three of salty matters. + +Mountain sheep and cattle have the finest-flavored meat, and are also +richest in nitrogenous matter. The mountain mutton of Virginia and North +Carolina is as famous as the English Southdown; but proper feeding +anywhere will make a new thing of the ordinary beef and mutton. When our +cattle are treated with decent humanity,--not driven days with scant food +and water, and then packed into cars with no food and no water, and driven +at last to slaughter feverish and gasping in anguish that we have no right +to permit for one moment,--we may expect tender, wholesome, well-flavored +meat. It is astonishing that under present conditions it can be as good as +it is. + +In well-fed animals, the fat forms about a third of the weight, the +largest part being in the loin. In mutton, one-half is fat; in pork, +three-quarters; while poultry and game have very little. + +The amount of bone varies very greatly. The loin and upper part of the leg +have least; nearly half the entire weight being in the shin, and a tenth +in the carcass. In the best mutton and pork, the bones are smaller, and +fat much greater in proportion to size. + +VEAL and LAMB, like all young meats, are much less digestible than beef or +mutton. Both should have very white, clear fat; and if that about the +kidneys is red or discolored, the meat should be rejected. Veal has but +sixteen parts of nitrogenous matter to sixty-three of water, and the bones +contain much more gelatine than is found in older animals. But in all +bones much useful carbon and nitrogen is found; three pounds of bone +yielding as much carbon, and six pounds as much nitrogen, as one pound of +meat. Carefully boiled, this nutriment can all be extracted, and flavored +with vegetables, form the basis of an endless variety of soups. + +PORK is of all meats the most difficult to digest, containing as it does +so large a proportion of fat. In a hundred parts of the meat, only nine of +nitrogen are found, fat being forty-eight and water thirty-nine, with but +two of salty matters. Bacon properly cured is much more digestible than +pork, the smoke giving it certain qualities not existing in uncured pork. +No food has yet been found which can take its place for army and navy use +or in pioneering. Beef when salted or smoked loses much of its virtue, +and eight ounces of fat pork will give nearly three times as much carbon +or heat-food as the same amount of beef; but its use is chiefly for the +laborer, and it should have only occasional place in the dietary of +sedentary persons. + +The pig is liable to many most unpleasant diseases, measles and trichina +spiralis being the most fatal to the eaters of meat thus affected; but the +last--a small animalcule of deadly effect if taken alive into the human +stomach, as is done in eating raw ham or sausage--becomes harmless if the +same meat is long and thoroughly boiled. Never be tempted into eating raw +ham or sausage; and in using pork in any form, try to have some knowledge +of the pig. A clean, well-fed pig in a well-kept stye is a wonderfully +different object from the hideous beast grunting its way in many a +Southern or Western town, feeding on offal and sewage, and rolling in +filth. Such meat is unfit for human consumption, and the eating of it +insures disease. + +We come now to another form of meat, that of edible ENTRAILS. This +includes _Tripe_, _Haslet_, or lights, &c. More nitrogen is found here +than in any other portion of the meat. The cheap and abundant supply in +this country has made us, as a people, reject all but the liver. In the +country, the sweetbreads or pancreas are often thrown away, and tripe +also. The European peasant has learned to utilize every scrap; and while +such use should not be too strongly urged, it is certain that this meat is +far better than _no_ meat. Fully one-third of the animals' weight comes +under this head,--that is, feet, tail, head, and tongue, lungs, liver, +spleen, omentum, pancreas, and heart, together with the intestines. The +rich man is hardly likely to choose much of this food, the tongue and +sweetbreads being the only dainty bits; but there are wholesome and savory +dishes to be made from every part, and the knowledge of their preparation +may be of greatest value to a poorer neighbor. Both ox-tails and head make +excellent soup. Tripe, the inner lining of the stomach, is, if properly +prepared, not only appetizing but pleasant to the eye. Calves' feet make +good jelly; and pigs' feet, ears, and head are soused or made into +scrapple. Blood-puddings are much eaten by Germans, but we are not likely +to adopt their use. Fresh blood has, however, been found of wonderful +effect for consumptive patients; and there are certain slaughter-houses in +our large cities where every day pale invalids are to be found waiting for +the goblet of almost living food from the veins of the still warm animal. +Horrible as it seems, the taste for it is soon acquired; and certainly the +good results warrant at least the effort to acquire it. + +VENISON comes next in the order of meats, but is more like game than any +ordinary butchers' meat. It is lean, dark in color, and savory, and if +well cooked, very digestible. + +POULTRY are of more importance to us than game, and the flesh, containing +less nitrogen, is not so stimulating as beef or mutton. Old fowls are +often tough and indigestible, and have often, also, a rank flavor like a +close hen-house, produced by the absorption into the flesh of the oil +intended by nature to lubricate the feathers. + +GAME contains even less fat than poultry, and is considered more +strengthening. The flesh of rabbits and hares is more like poultry or game +than meat, but is too close in fiber to be as digestible. Pigeons and many +other birds come under none of the heads given. As a rule, flesh is +tender in proportion to the smallness of the animal, and many varieties +are eaten for the description of which we have no room here. + +FISH forms the only animal food for a large part of the world. It does not +possess the satisfying or stimulating properties belonging to flesh, yet +the inhabitants of fishing-towns are shown to be unusually strong and +healthy. The flesh of some fish is white, and of others red; the red +holding much more oil, and being therefore less digestible. In _Salmon_, +the most nutritious of all fishes, there are, in a hundred parts, sixteen +of nitrogen, six of fat, nearly two of saline matter, and seventy-seven of +water. _Eels_ contain thirteen parts of fat. _Codfish_, the best-known of +all the white fish, vary greatly, according to the time of year in which +they are taken, being much more digestible in season than out (i.e., from +October to May). _Mackerel_ and _Herring_ both abound in oil, the latter +especially, giving not only relish to the Irishman's potato, but the +carbon he needs as heat-food. _Shell-fish_ are far less digestible, the +_Oyster_ being the only exception. The nitrogenous matter in oysters is +fourteen parts, of fatty matter one and a half, of saline matter two, and +of water eighty. At the time of spawning--from May to September--they lose +their good condition, and become unwholesome. _Lobsters_ rank next in +importance, and are more delicate and finer-flavored than _Crabs_. Both +are, however, very difficult of digestion, and should only be used +occasionally. The many forms of pickled and smoked fish are convenient, +but always less wholesome than fresh. + +MILK comes next, and has already been considered in a previous chapter. It +is sometimes found to disagree with the stomach, but usually because +looked upon as drink and not as real food, the usual supply of which is +taken, forgetful of the fact that a glass or two of milk contains as much +nourishment as two-thirds of the average meal. The nitrogenous matter in +milk is known as caseine, and it is this which principally forms cheese. + +CHEESE is commonly considered only a relish, but is in reality one of the +most condensed forms of nitrogenous food; and a growing knowledge of its +value has at last induced the Army Department to add it to the army ration +list. Mattieu Williams, after giving the chemical formulas of caseine and +the other elements of cheese, writes; "I have good and sufficient reasons +for thus specifying the properties of this constituent of food. I regard +it as the most important of all that I have to describe in connection with +my subject,--The Science of Cookery. It contains, as I shall presently +show, more nutritious material than any other food that is ordinarily +obtainable, and its cookery is singularly neglected,--practically an +unknown art, especially in this country. We commonly eat it raw, although +in its raw state it is peculiarly indigestible, and in the only cooked +form familiarly known among us here, that of Welsh rabbit or rare-bit, it +is too often rendered still more indigestible, though this need not be the +case. Cream-cheese is the richest form, but keeps less well than that of +milk. Stilton, the finest English brand, is made partly of cream, partly +of milk, and so with various other foreign brands, Gruyere, &c. Parmesan +is delicately flavored with fine herbs, and retains this flavor almost +unaltered by age. Our American cheeses now rank with the best foreign +ones, and will grow more and more in favor as their value is understood, +this being their strongly nitrogenous character. A cheese of twenty +pounds weight contains as much food as a sheep weighing sixty pounds, as +it hangs in the butcher's shop. In Dutch and factory cheeses, where the +curd has been precipitated by hydrochloric acid, the food value is less +than where rennet is used; but even in this case, it is far beyond meat in +actual nutritive power." + +BUTTER is a purely carbonaceous or heat-giving food, being the fatty part +of the milk, which rises in cream. It is mentioned in the very earliest +history, and the craving for it seems to be universal. Abroad it is eaten +without salt; but to keep it well, salt is a necessity, and its absence +soon allows the development of a rank and unpleasant odor. In other words, +butter without it becomes rancid; and if any particle of whey is allowed +to remain in it, the same effect takes place. + +Perfect butter is golden in color, waxy in consistency, and with a +sweetness of odor quite indescribable, yet unmistakable to the trained +judge of butter. It possesses the property of absorption of odors in a +curious degree; and if shut in a tight closet or a refrigerator with fish, +meat, or vegetables of rank or even pronounced smell, exchanges its own +delicate aroma for theirs, and reaches us bereft once for all of what is +the real charm of perfect butter. For this reason absolute cleanliness and +daintiness of vessels containing milk or cream, or used in any way in the +manufacture of butter, is one of the first laws of the dairy. + +_Ghee_, the East-Indian form of butter, is simply fresh butter clarified +by melting, and is used as a dressing for the meal of rice. Butter, though +counted as a pure fat, is in reality made up of at least six fatty +principles, there being sixty-eight per cent of margarine and thirty per +cent of oleine, the remainder being volatile compounds of fatty acids. In +the best specimens of butter there is a slight amount of caseine, not over +five per cent at most, though in poor there is much more. It is the only +fat which may be constantly eaten without harm to the stomach, though if +not perfectly good it becomes an irritant. + +The _Drippings_ of roasted meat, more especially of beef, rank next in +value; and _Lard_ comes last on the list, its excessive use being a +serious evil. Eaten constantly, as in pastry or the New-England doughnut, +it is not only indigestible, but becomes the source of forms of scrofulous +disease. It is often a convenient substitute for butter, but if it must be +used, would better be in connection with the harmless fat. + +Eggs come last; and as a young animal is developed from them, it follows +that they contain all that is necessary for animal life, though in the +case of the chicken the shell also is used, all the earthy matter being +absorbed. In a hundred parts are found fourteen of nitrogen, ten and a +half of fatty matter, one and a half of saline matter, and seventy-four of +water. Of this water the largest part is contained in the white, which is +almost pure albumen, each particle of albumen being enclosed in very +thin-walled cells; it is the breaking of these cells and the admission of +air that enables one to beat the white of egg to a stiff froth. The fat is +accumulated in the yolk, often amounting to thirty per cent. Raw and +lightly-boiled eggs are easy of digestion, but hard-boiled ones decidedly +not so. An egg loses its freshness within a day or so. The shell is +porous; and the always-feeding and destroying oxygen of the air quickly +gains admission, causing a gradual decomposition. To preserve them, they +must be coated with lard or gum, or packed in either salt or oats, points +down. In this way they keep good a long time, and while hardly desirable +to eat as boiled eggs, answer for many purposes in cooking. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. + + +We come now to the vegetable kingdom, the principal points that we are to +consider arranging themselves somewhat as follows:-- + +Farinaceous seeds, +Oleaginous seeds, +Leguminous seeds, +Tubers and roots, +Herbaceous articles, +Fruits, +Saccharine and farinaceous preparations. + +Under the first head, that of farinaceous seeds, are included wheat, rye, +oats, Indian corn, rice, and a variety of less-known grains, all +possessing in greater or less degree the same constituents. It will be +impossible to more than touch upon many of them; and wheat must stand as +the representative, being the best-known and most widely used of all +grains. Each one is made up of nitrogenous compounds, gluten, albumen, +caseine, and fibrine, gluten being the most valuable. Starch, dextrine, +sugar, and cellulose are also found; fatty matter, which gives the +characteristic odor of grain; mineral substances, as phosphates of lime +and magnesia, salts of potash and soda, and silica, which we shall shortly +mention again. + +_Hard Wheat_, or that grown in hot climates and on fertile soil, has much +more nitrogen than that of colder countries. In hard wheat, in a hundred +parts, twenty-two will be of nitrogen, fifty-nine starch, ten dextrine, +&c, four cellulose, two and a half of fatty matter, and three of mineral, +thus giving many of the constituents found in animal food. + +This wheat is taken as bread, white or brown, biscuits, crackers, various +preparations of the grain whether whole or crushed, and among the Italians +as _macaroni_, the most condensed form of cereal food. The best macaroni +is made from the red wheat grown along the Mediterranean Sea, a hot summer +and warm climate producing a grain, rich, as already mentioned, in +nitrogen, and with a smaller proportion of water than farther north. The +intense though short summer of our own far North-west seems to bring +somewhat the same result, but the outer husk is harder. This husk was for +years considered a necessity in all really nutritious bread; and a +generation of vegetarians taking their name from Dr. Graham, and known as +Grahamites, conceived the idea of living upon the wheaten flour in which +husk and kernel were ground together. Now, to stomachs and livers brought +to great grief by persistent pie and doughnuts and some other New-England +wickednesses, these husks did a certain office of stimulation, stirring up +jaded digestions, and really seeming to arrest or modify long-standing +dyspepsia. But they did not know what we do, that this outer husk is a +layer of pure silica, one of the hardest of known minerals. Boil it six +weeks, and it comes out unchanged. Boil it six years, or six centuries, +and the result would be the same. You can not stew a grindstone or bring +granite to porridge, and the wheat-husk is equally obstinate. So long as +enthusiasts ate husk and kernel ground together, little harm was done. But +when a more progressive soul declared that in bran alone the true +nutriment lay, and a host of would-be healthier people proceeded to eat +bran and preach bran, there came a time when eating and preaching both +stopped, from sheer want of strength to go on. The enthusiasts were +literally starving themselves to death--for starvation is by no means mere +deprivation of food: on the contrary, a man may eat heartily to the day of +his death, and feel no inconvenience, so far as any protest of the stomach +is concerned, yet the verdict of the wise physician would be, "Died of +starvation." If the food was unsuitable, and could not be assimilated, +this was inevitable. Blood, muscle, nerve--each must have its fitting +food; and thus it is easy to see why knowledge is the first condition of +healthful living. The moral is: Never rashly experiment in diet till sure +what you are about, and, if you can not for yourselves find out the nature +of your projected food, call upon some one who can. + +Where wheat is ground whole, it includes six and a half parts of +heat-producers to one of flesh-formers. The amount of starch varies +greatly. Two processes of making flour are now in use,--one the old, or +St. Louis process; the other, the "new process," giving Haxall flour. In +the former, grindstones were used, which often reached so great a degree +of heat as to injure the flour; and repeated siftings gave the various +grades. In the new, the outer husk is rejected, and a system of knives is +used, which chop the grain to powder, and it is claimed do not heat it. +The product is more starchy, and for this reason less desirable. We eat +far too much heat-producing food, and any thing which gives us the gluten +of the grain is more wholesome, and thus "seconds" is really a more +nutritious flour than the finer grades. Try for yourselves a small +experiment, and you will learn the nature of flour better than in pages of +description. + +Take a little flour; wet it with cold water enough to form a dough. Place +it on a sieve, and, while working it with one hand, pour a steady stream +of water over it with another. Shortly you will find a grayish, tough, +elastic lump before you, while in the pan below, when the water is +carefully poured off, will be pure wheat-starch, the water itself +containing all the sugar, dextrine or gum, and mineral matter. This +toughness and elasticity of gluten is an important quality; for in +bread-making, were it not for the gluten, the carbonic-acid gas formed by +the action of yeast on dough would all escape. But, though it works its +way out vigorously enough to swell up each cell, the gluten binds it fast, +and enables us to have a panful of light "sponge," where a few hours +before was only a third of a pan. + +Starch, as you have seen, will not dissolve in the cold water. Dry it, +after the water is poured on, and minute grains remain. Look at these +grains under a microscope, and each one is cased in a thick skin, which +cold water can not dissolve. In boiling water, the skins crack, and the +inside swells and becomes gummy. Long boiling is thus an essential for all +starchy foods. + +Bread proper is simply flour, water, and salt, mixed to a firm dough and +baked. Such bread as this, Abram gave to his angelic guests, and at this +day the Bedouin Arab bakes it on his heated stone. But bread, as we +understand it, is always lightened by the addition of yeast or some form +of baking-powder, yeast making the most wholesome as well as most +palatable bread. Carbonic-acid gas is the active agent required; and yeast +so acts upon the little starch-granules, which the microscope shows as +forming the finest flour, that this gas is formed and evenly distributed +through the whole dough. The process is slow, and in the action some of +the natural sweetness of the flour is lost. In what is known as aërated +bread, the gas made was forced directly into the dough, by means of a +machine invented for the purpose; and a very scientific and very good +bread it is. But it demands an apparatus not to be had save at great +expense, and the older fashions give a sufficiently sweet and desirable +bread. + +_Rye_ and _Indian Corn_ form the next best-known varieties of flour in +bread-making; but barley and oats are also used, and beans, pease, rice, +chestnuts, in short, any farinaceous seed, or legume rich in starch, can +fill the office. + +_Oatmeal_ may take rank as one of the best and most digestible forms of +farinaceous food. Some twenty-eight per cent of the grain is husk, +seventy-two being kernel; and this kernel forms a meal containing twelve +parts of nitrogenous matter, sixty-three of carbo-hydrates, five and a +half of fatty matter, three of saline, and fifteen of water. So little +gluten is found, that the flour of oats can not be made into loaves of +bread; although, mixed and baked as thin cakes, it forms a large part of +the Scotchman's food. It requires thorough cooking, and is then slightly +laxative and very easily digested. + +_Buckwheat_ is very rich in nitrogenous substances, and as we eat it, in +the form of cakes with butter and sirup, so heating a food, as to be only +suitable for hard workers in cold weather. + +Indian corn has also a very small proportion of gluten, and thus makes a +bread which crumbles too readily. But it is the favorite form of bread, +not only for South and West in our own country, but in Spanish America, +Southern Europe, Germany, and Ireland. It contains a larger amount of +fatty matter than any other grain, this making it a necessity in fattening +animals. In a hundred parts are eleven of nitrogen, sixty-five of +carbo-hydrates, eight of fatty matter, one and a half of saline, and +fourteen of water. The large amount of fatty matter makes it difficult to +keep much meal on hand, as it grows rancid and breeds worms; and it is +best that it should be ground in small quantities as required. + +_Rice_ abounds in starch. In a hundred parts are found seven and a half of +nitrogen, eighty-eight of starch, one of dextrine, eight-tenths of fatty +matter, one of cellulose, and nine-tenths of mineral matter. Taken alone +it can not be called a nutritive food; but eaten with butter or milk and +eggs, or as by the East Indians in curry, it holds an important place. + +We come now to OLEAGINOUS SEEDS; nuts, the cocoanut, almonds, &c, coming +under this head. While they are rich in oil, this very fact makes them +indigestible, and they should be eaten sparingly. + +_Olive-oil_ must find mention here. No fat of either the animal or +vegetable kingdom surpasses this in delicacy and purity. Palm-oil fills +its place with the Asiatics in part; but the olive has no peer in this +respect, and we lose greatly in our general distaste for this form of +food. The liking for it should be encouraged as decidedly as the liking +for butter. It is less heating, more soothing to the tissues, and from +childhood to old age its liberal use prevents many forms of disease, as +well as equalizes digestion in general. + +LEGUMINOUS SEEDS are of more importance, embracing as they do the whole +tribe of beans, pease, and lentils. Twice as much nitrogen is found in +beans as in wheat; and they rank so near to animal food, that by the +addition of a little fat they practically can take its place. Bacon and +beans have thus been associated for centuries, and New England owes to +Assyria the model for the present Boston bean-pot. In the best table-bean, +either Lima or the butter-bean, will be found in a hundred parts, thirty +of nitrogen, fifty-six of starch, one and a half of cellulose, two of +fatty matter, three and a half of saline, and eight and a half of water. +The proportion of nitrogen is less in pease, but about the same in +lentils. The chestnut also comes under this head, and is largely eaten in +Spain and Italy, either boiled, or dried and ground into flour. + +TUBERS and ROOTS follow, and of these the _Potato_ leads the van. Low as +you may have noticed their standing on the food-table to be, they are the +most economical and valuable of foods, combining as well with others, and +as little cloying to the palate, as bread itself. Each pound of potatoes +contains seven hundred and seventy grains of carbon, and twenty-four +grains of nitrogen; each pound of wheat-flour, two thousand grains of +carbon, and one hundred and twenty of nitrogen. But the average cost of +the pound of potatoes is but one cent; that of the pound of wheat, four. +It is obtainable at all seasons, and thus invaluable as a permanent store, +though best in the winter. Spring, the germinating season, diminishes its +nutritive value. New potatoes are less nutritious than older ones, and in +cooking, if slightly underdone, are said to satisfy the appetite better; +this being the reason why the laboring classes prefer them, as they say, +"with a bone in them." + +In a hundred parts are found but two of nitrogen, eighteen of starch, +three of sugar, two-tenths of fat, seven-tenths of saline matter, and +seventy-five parts of water. The _Sweet-potato_, _Yam_, and _Artichoke_ +are all of the same character. Other _Tubers_, the _Turnip_, _Beet_, +_Carrot_, and _Parsnip_, are in ordinary use. The turnip is nine-tenths +water, but possesses some valuable qualities. The beet, though also +largely water, has also a good deal of sugar, and is excellent food. +Carrots and parsnips are much alike in composition. Carrots are generally +rejected as food, but properly cooked are very appetizing, their greatest +use, however, being in soups and stews. + +HERBACEOUS ARTICLES follow; and, though we are not accustomed to consider +_Cabbage_ as an herb, it began existence as cole-wort, a shrub or herb on +the south coast of England. Cultivation has developed it into a firm round +head; and as a vegetable, abounding as it does in nitrogen, it ranks next +to beans as a food. _Cauliflower_ is a very delicate and highly prized +form of cabbage, but cabbage itself can be so cooked as to strongly +resemble it. + +_Onions_ are next in value, being much milder and sweeter when grown in a +warm climate, but used chiefly as a flavoring. _Lettuce_ and _Celery_ are +especially valuable; the former for salads, the latter to be eaten without +dressing though it is excellent cooked. _Tomatoes_ are really a fruit, +though eaten as a vegetable, and are of especial value as a cooling food. +Egg-plant, cucumbers, &c., all demand space; and so with edible fungi, +mushrooms, and truffles, the latter the property of the epicure, and +really not so desirable as that fact would indicate. + +FRUITS are last in order; and among these stands first of all the apple. +While in actual analysis fruits have less nutritive value than vegetables, +their acids and salts give to them the power of counteracting the +unhealthy states brought about by the long use of dried or salted +provisions. They are a corrective also of the many evils arising from +profuse meat-eating, the citric acid of lemons and grape-fruit being an +antidote to rheumatic and gouty difficulties. Cold storage now enables one +to command grapes long after their actual season has ended, and they are +invaluable food. The brain-worker is learning to depend more and more on +fruit in all its forms; and apples lead the list, containing more solid +nutriment than any other form. While considered less digestible raw than +baked, they are still one of the most attractive, life-giving forms of +food, and if eaten daily would prove a standard antidote to patent +medicine. The list of fruits is too long for mention here; but all have +their specific uses, and are necessary to perfect health. + +SUGAR and HONEY follow in the stores of the vegetable kingdom. Cane-sugar +and glucose, or grape-sugar, are the two recognized varieties, though the +making of beet-sugar has become an industry here as well as in France. +Grape-sugar requires to be used in five times the amount of cane, to +secure the same degree of sweetness. Honey also is a food,--a concentrated +solution of sugar, mixed with odorous, gummy, and waxy matters. It +possesses much the same food value as sugar, and is easily digested. + +With the various FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS, _Sago_, _Tapioca_,_ +Arrow-root_, &c, the vegetable dietary ends. All are light, digestible +foods, principally starchy in character, but with little nutriment unless +united with milk or eggs. Their chief use is in the sick-room. + +Restricted as comment must be, each topic introduced will well reward +study; and the story of each of these varied ingredients in cookery, if +well learned, will give one an unsuspected range of thought, and a new +sense of the wealth that may be hidden in very common things. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES. + + +Condiments are simply seasoning or flavoring agents, and, though hardly +coming under the head of food, yet have an important part to play. As food +by their use is rendered more tempting, a larger amount is consumed, and +thus a delicate or uncertain appetite is often aided. In some cases they +have the power of correcting the injurious character of some foods. + +Salt stands foremost. Vinegar, lemon-juice, and pickles owe their value to +acidity; while mustard, pepper black and red, ginger, curry-powder, and +horse-radish all depend chiefly upon pungency. Under the head of aromatic +condiments are ranged cinnamon, nutmegs, cloves, allspice, mint, thyme, +fennel, sage, parsley, vanilla, leeks, onions, shallots, garlic, and +others, all of them entering into the composition of various sauces in +general use. + +Salt is the one thing indispensable. The old Dutch law condemned criminals +to a diet of unsalted food, the effects being said to be those of the +severest physical torture. Years ago an experiment tried near Paris +demonstrated the necessity of its use. A number of cattle were fed without +the ration of salt; an equal number received it regularly. At the end of a +specified time, the unsalted animals were found rough of coat, the hair +falling off in spots, the eyes wild, and the flesh hardly half the amount +of those naturally fed. + +A class of extreme Grahamites in this country decry the use of salt, as +well as of any form of animal food; and I may add that the expression of +their thought in both written and spoken speech is as savorless as their +diet. + +Salt exists, as we have already found, in the blood: the craving for it is +a universal instinct, even buffaloes making long journeys across the +plains to the salt-licks; and its use not only gives character to insipid +food, but increases the flow of the gastric juice. + +Black pepper, if used profusely as is often done in American cooking, +becomes an irritant, and produces indigestion. Red pepper, or cayenne, on +the contrary, is a useful stimulant at times; but, as with mustard, any +over-use irritates the lining of the stomach. + +So with spices and sweet herbs. There should be only such use of them as +will flavor well, delicately, and almost imperceptibly. No one flavor +should predominate, and only a sense of general savoriness rule. Extracts, +as of vanilla, lemon, bitter almond, &c., should be used with the greatest +care, and if possible always be added to an article after it cools, as the +heat wastes the strength. + + +BEVERAGES. + +Tea and coffee are the most universal drinks, after water. The flavor of +both is due to a principle, _theine_ in tea, _caffeine_ in coffee, in +which both the good and the ill effects of these drinks are bound up. It +is hardly necessary the principles should have different names, as they +have been found by chemists to be identical; the essential spirit of cocoa +and chocolate,--_theobromine_,--though not identical, having many of the +same properties. + +_Tea_ is valuable chiefly for its warming and comforting qualities. Taken +in moderation, it acts partly as a sedative, partly as a stimulant, +arresting the destruction of tissue, and seeming to invigorate the whole +nervous system. The water in it, even if impure, is made wholesome by +boiling, and the milk and sugar give a certain amount of real nourishment. +Nervous headaches are often cured by it, and it has, like coffee, been +used as an antidote in opium-poisoning. + +Pass beyond the point of moderation, and it becomes an irritant, precisely +in the same way that an overdose of morphine will, instead of putting to +sleep, for just so much longer time prevent any sleep at all. The woman +who can not eat, and who braces her nerves with a cup of green tea,--the +most powerful form of the herb,--is doing a deeper wrong than she may be +able to believe. The immediate effect is delightful. Lightness, +exhilaration, and sense of energy are all there; but the re-action comes +surely, and only a stronger dose next time accomplishes the end desired. +Nervous headaches, hysteria in its thousand forms, palpitations, and the +long train of nervous symptoms, own inordinate tea and coffee drinking as +their parent. Taken in reasonable amounts, tea can not be said to be +hurtful; and the medium qualities, carefully prepared, often make a more +wholesome tea than that of the highest price, the harmful properties being +strongest in the best. If the water is soft, it should be used as soon as +boiled, boiling causing all the gases which give flavor to water to +escape. In hard water, boiling softens it. In all cases the water must be +fresh, and poured boiling upon the proper portion of tea,--the teapot +having first been well scalded with boiling water. Never boil any tea but +English-breakfast tea; for all others, simple steeping gives the drink in +perfection. + +A disregard of these rules gives one the rank, black, unpleasant infusion +too often offered as tea; while, if boiled in tin, it becomes a species of +slow poison,--the tannic acid in the tea acting upon the metal, and +producing a chemical compound whose character it is hard to determine. +Various other plants possess the essential principle of tea, and are used +as such; as in Paraguay, where the Brazilian holly is dried, and makes a +tea very exhilarating in quality, but much more astringent. + +The use of _Coffee_ dates back even farther than that of tea. Of the many +varieties, Mocha and Java are finest in flavor, and a mixture of one-third +Mocha with two-thirds Java gives the drink at its best. As in tea, there +are three chief constituents: (1) A volatile oil, giving the aroma it +possesses, but less in amount than that in tea. (2) Astringent matter,--a +modification of tannin, but also less than in tea. (3) Caffeine, now found +identical with theine, but varying in amount in different varieties of +coffee,--being in some three or four per cent, in others less. + +The most valuable property of coffee is its power of relieving the +sensation of hunger and fatigue. To the soldier on active service, nothing +can take its place; and in our own army it became the custom often, not +only to drink the infusion, but, if on a hard march, to eat the grounds +also. In all cases it diminishes the waste of tissue. In hot weather it is +too heating and stimulating, acting powerfully upon the liver, and, by +producing over-activity of that organ, bringing about a general +disturbance. + +So many adulterations are found in ground coffee, that it is safest for +the real coffee-lover to buy the bean whole. Roasting is usually more +perfectly done at the grocers', in their rotary roasters, which give every +grain its turn; but, by care and constant stirring, it can be accomplished +at home. Too much boiling dissipates the delicious aroma we all know; and +the best methods are considered to be those which allow no boiling, after +boiling water has been poured upon it, but merely a standing, to infuse +and settle. The old fashion, however, of mixing with an egg, and boiling a +few minutes, makes a coffee hardly inferior in flavor. In fact, the +methods are many, but results, under given conditions, much the same; and +we may choose urn, or old-fashioned tin pot, or a French biggin, with the +certainty that good coffee, well roasted, boiling water, and good judgment +as to time, will give always a delicious drink. Make a note of the fact +that long boiling sets free tannic acid, powerful enough to literally tan +the coats of the stomach, and bring on incurable dyspepsia. Often coffee +without milk can be taken, where, with milk, it proves harmful; but, in +all cases, moderation must rule. Taken too strong, palpitation of the +heart, vertigo, and fainting are the usual consequences. + +_Cocoa_, or, literally, cacao, from the cacao-tree, comes in the form of a +thick seed, twenty or thirty of which make up the contents of a gourd-like +fruit, the spaces between being filled with a somewhat acid pulp. The +seeds, when freed from this pulp by various processes, are first dried in +the sun, and then roasted; and from these roasted seeds come various forms +of cocoa. + +_Cocoa-shells_ are the outer husk, and by long boiling yield a pleasant +and rather nutritious drink. Cocoa itself is the nut ground to powder, and +sometimes mixed with sugar, the husk being sometimes ground with it. + +In _Chocolate_--a preparation of cocoa--the cocoa is carefully dried and +roasted, and then ground to a smooth paste, the nuts being placed on a hot +iron plate, and so keeping the oily matter to aid in forming a paste. +Sugar and flavorings, as vanilla, are often added, and the whole pressed +into cakes. The whole substance of the nut being used, it is exceedingly +nutritious, and made more so by the milk and sugar added. Eaten with bread +it forms not only a nourishing but a hearty meal; and so condensed is its +form, that a small cake carried in traveling, and eaten with a cracker or +two, will give temporarily the effect of a full meal. + +In a hundred parts of chocolate are found forty-eight of fatty matter or +cocoa-butter, twenty-one of nitrogenous matter, four of theobromine, +eleven of starch, three of cellulose, three of mineral matter, and ten of +water; there being also traces of coloring matter, aromatic essence, and +sugar. Twice as much nitrogenous, and twenty-five times as much fatty +matter as wheaten flour, make it a valuable food, though the excess of fat +will make it disagree with a very delicate stomach. + +_Alcohol_ is last upon our list, and scientific men are still uncertain +whether or not it can in any degree be considered as a food; but we have +no room for the various arguments for and against. You all know, in part +at least, the effects of intemperance; and even the moderate daily drinker +suffers from clouded mind, irritable nerves, and ruined digestion. + +This is not meant as an argument for total abstinence; but there are cases +where such abstinence is the only rule. In an inherited tendency to drink, +there is no other safe road; but to the man or woman who lives by law, and +whose body is in the best condition, wine in its many forms is a +permissible _occasional_ luxury, and so with beer and cider and the wide +range of domestic drinks. In old age its use is almost essential, but +always in moderation, individual temperament modifying every rule, and +making the best knowledge an imperative need. A little alcoholic drink +increases a delicate appetite: a great deal diminishes or takes it away +entirely, and also hinders and in many cases stops digestion altogether. +In its constant over-use the membranes of the stomach are gradually +destroyed, and every organ in the body suffers. In ales and beers there is +not only alcohol, but much nitrogenous and sugary matter, very fattening +in its nature. A light beer, well flavored with hops, is an aid to +digestion, but taken in excess produces biliousness. The long list of +alcoholic products it is not necessary to give, nor is it possible to +enter into much detail regarding alcohol itself; but there are one or two +points so important that they can not be passed by. + +You will recall in a preceding chapter the description of the circulation +of the blood, and of its first passage through veins and arteries for +cleansing, before a second round could make it food for the whole complex +nervous system. Alcohol taken in excess, it has been proved in countless +experiments by scientific men, possesses the power of coagulating the +blood. The little corpuscles adhere in masses, and cannot force themselves +through the smaller vessels, and circulation is at once hindered. This, +however, is the secondary stage. At first, as many of you have had +occasion to notice, the face flushes, the eyes grow brighter, and thought +and word both come more freely. The heart beats far more rapidly, and the +speed increases in proportion to the amount of alcohol absorbed. The +average number of beats of the heart, allowing for its slower action +during sleep, is 100,000 beats per day. Under a small supply of alcohol +this rose to 127,000, and in actual intoxication to 131,000. + +The flush upon the cheek is only a token of the same fact within; every +organ is congested. The brain has been examined under such circumstances, +and "looked as if injected with vermilion ... the membrane covering both +brains resembling a delicate web of coagulated red blood, so tensely were +its fine vessels engorged." + +At a later stage the muscular power is paralyzed, the rule of mind over +body suspended, and a heavy, brutal sleep comes, long or short according +to the amount taken. This is the extreme of alcoholism, and death the only +ending to it, as a habitual condition. Alcohol seems a necessary evil; for +that its occasional beneficence can modify or neutralize the long list of +woe and crime and brutality following in its train, is more than doubtful. + +"Whatever good can come from alcohol, or whatever evil, is all included in +that primary physiological and luxurious action of the agent upon the +nervous supply of the circulation.... If it be really a luxury for the +heart to be lifted up by alcohol, for the blood to course more swiftly +through the brain, for the thoughts to flow more vehemently, for words to +come more fluently, for emotions to rise ecstatically, and for life to +rush on beyond the pace set by nature; then those who enjoy the luxury +must enjoy it--with the consequences." + +And now, at the end of our talks together, friends, there is yet another +word. Much must remain unsaid in these narrow limits; but they are wide +enough, I hope, to have given the key by which you may find easy entrance +to the mysteries we all may know, indeed must, if our lives are truly +lived. If through intemperance, in meat or drink, in feeling or thought, +you lessen bodily or mental power, you alone are accountable, whether +ignorant or not. Only in a never-failing self-control can safety ever be. +Temperance is the foundation of high living; and here is its definition, +by one whose own life holds it day by day:-- + +"Temperance is personal cleanliness; is modesty; is quietness; is +reverence for one's elders and betters; is deference to one's mother and +sisters; is gentleness; is courage; is the withholding from all which +leads to excess in daily living; is the eating and drinking only of that +which will insure the best body which the best soul is to inhabit: nay, +temperance is all these, and more." + + + + +_PART II._ + + + + +STOCK AND SEASONING. + + +The preparation called STOCK is for some inscrutable reason a +stumbling-block to average cooks, and even by experienced housekeepers is +often looked upon as troublesome and expensive. Where large amounts of +fresh meat are used in its preparation, the latter adjective might be +appropriate; but stock in reality is the only mode by which every scrap of +bone or meat, whether cooked or uncooked, can be made to yield the last +particle of nourishment contained in it. Properly prepared and strained +into a stone jar, it will keep a week, and is as useful in the making of +hashes and gravies as in soup itself. + +The first essential is a tightly-covered kettle, either tinned iron or +porcelain-lined, holding not less than two gallons; three being a +preferable size. Whether cooked or uncooked meat is used, it should be cut +into small bits, and all bones broken or sawn into short pieces, that the +marrow may be easily extracted. + +To every pound of meat and bone allow one quart of cold water, one even +teaspoon of salt, and half a saltspoon of pepper. Let the meat stand till +the water is slightly colored with its juice; then put upon the fire, and +let it come slowly to a boil, skimming off every particle of scum as it +rises. The least neglect of this point will give a broth in which bits of +dark slime float about, unpleasant to sight and taste. A cup of cold +water, thrown in as the kettle boils, will make the scum rise more freely. +Let it boil steadily, but very slowly, allowing an hour to each pound of +meat. The water will boil away, leaving, at the end of the time specified, +not more than half or one-third the original amount. In winter this will +become a firm jelly, which can be used by simply melting it, thus +obtaining a strong, clear broth; or can be diluted with an equal quantity +of water, and vegetables added for a vegetable soup. + +The meat used in stock, if boiled the full length of time given, has +parted with all its juices, and is therefore useless as food. If wanted +for hashes or croquettes, the portion needed should be taken out as soon +as tender, and a pint of the stock with it, to use as gravy. Strain, when +done, into a stone pot or crock kept for the purpose, and, when cold, +remove the cake of fat which will rise to the top. This fat, melted and +strained, serves for many purposes better than lard. If the stock is to be +kept several days, leave the fat on till ready to use it. + +Fresh and cooked meat may be used together, and all remains of poultry or +game, and trimmings of chops and steaks, may be added, mutton being the +only meat which can not as well be used in combination; though even this, +by trimming off all the fat, may also be added. If it is intended to keep +the stock for some days, no vegetables should be added, as vegetable +juices ferment very easily. For clear soups they must be cooked with the +meat; and directions will be given under that head for amounts and +seasonings. + +The secret of a savory soup lies in many flavors, none of which are +allowed to predominate; and, minutely as rules for such flavoring may be +given, only careful and frequent _tasting_ will insure success. Every +vegetable, spice, and sweet herb, curry-powders, catchups, sauces, dried +or fresh lemon-peel, can be used; and the simple stock, by the addition of +these various ingredients, becomes the myriad number of soups to be found +in the pages of great cooking manuals like Gouffée's or Francatelli's. + +_Brown soups_ are made by frying the meat or game used in them till +thoroughly brown on all sides, and using dark spices or sauces in their +seasoning. + +_White soups_ are made with light meats, and often with the addition of +milk or cream. + +_Purées_ are merely thick soups strained carefully before serving, and +made usually of some vegetable which thickens in boiling, as beans, pease, +&c, though there are several forms of fish _purées_ in which the +foundation is thickened milk, to which the fish is added, and the whole +then rubbed through a common sieve, if a regular purée-sieve is not to be +had. + +Browned flour is often used for coloring, but does not thicken a soup, as, +in browning it, the starchy portion has been destroyed; and it will not +therefore mix, but settles at the bottom. Burned sugar or caramel makes a +better coloring, and also adds flavor. With clear soups grated cheese is +often served, either Parmesan or any rich cheese being used. Onions give a +better flavor if they are fried in a little butter or dripping before +using, and many professional cooks fry all soup vegetables lightly. +Cabbage and potatoes should be parboiled in a separate water before +adding to a soup. In using wine or catchup, add only at the last moment, +as boiling dissipates the flavor. Unless a thick vegetable soup is +desired, always strain into the tureen. Rice, sago, macaroni, or any +cereal may be used as thickening; the amounts required being found under +the different headings. Careful skimming, long boiling, and as careful +removing of fat, will secure a broth especially desirable as a food for +children and the old, but almost equally so for any age; while many +fragments, otherwise entirely useless, discover themselves as savory and +nutritious parts of the day's supply of food. + + * * * * * + +SOUPS. + + +BEEP SOUP WITH VEGETABLES. + +For this very excellent soup take two quarts of stock prepared beforehand, +as already directed. If the stock is a jelly, as will usually be the case +in winter, an amount sufficient to fill a quart-measure can be diluted +with a pint of water, and will then be rich enough. Add to this one small +carrot, a turnip, a small parsnip, and two onions, all chopped fine; a +cupful of chopped cabbage; two tablespoonfuls of barley or rice; and +either six fresh tomatoes sliced, or a small can of sealed ones. Boil +gently at least one hour; then add one saltspoonful each of pepper, +curry-powder, and clove. If the stock has been salted properly, no more +will be needed; but tasting is essential to secure just the right flavors. +Boil a few minutes longer, and serve without straining. + +This is an especially savory and hearty soup, and the combinations of +vegetables may be varied indefinitely. A cup of chopped celery is an +exceedingly nice addition, or, if this is not to be had, a teaspoonful of +celery salt, or a saltspoonful of celery-seed. A lemon may also be sliced +thin, and added at the last. Where tomatoes are used, a little sugar is +always an improvement; in this case an even tablespoonful being +sufficient. If a thicker broth is desired, one heaped tablespoonful of +corn-starch or flour may be first dissolved in a little cold water; then a +cup of the hot broth gradually mixed with it, and the whole added to the +soup and boiled for five minutes. + + +CLEAR OR AMBER SOUP. + +This soup needs careful attention. It may be made of beef alone, but, if +desired very rich for a special dinner, requires the addition of either a +chicken or a knuckle of veal. Allow, then, for the best soup, a +soup-bone,--the shin of beef being most desirable,--weighing from two to +three pounds; a chicken; a slice of fat ham; two onions, each stuck with +three cloves; one small carrot and parsnip; one stalk of celery; one +tablespoonful of salt; half a saltspoonful of pepper; and four quarts of +cold water. + +Cut all the meat from the beef bone in small pieces; slice the onions; fry +the ham (or, if preferred, a thick slice of salt pork weighing not less +than two ounces); fry the onions a bright brown in this fat; add the +pieces of beef, and brown them also. Now put all the materials, bones +included, into the soup-kettle; add the cold water, and let it very +gradually come to a boil. Skim with the utmost care, and then boil slowly +and steadily for not less than five hours, six or even seven being +preferable. Strain, and set in a cold place. Next day remove the fat, and +put the soup on the fire one hour before it will be wanted. Break the +white and shell of an egg into a bowl; add a spoonful of cold water, and +beat a moment; add a little of the hot soup, that the white may mix more +thoroughly with the soup, and then pour it into the kettle. Let all boil +slowly for ten minutes; then strain, either through a jelly-bag, or +through a thick cloth laid in a sieve or colander. Do not stir, as this +would cloud the soup; and, if not clear and sparkling, strain again. +Return to the fire, and heat to boiling-point, putting a lemon cut in thin +slices, and, if liked, a glass of sherry, into the tureen before serving. +A poached egg, or a boiled egg from which the shell has been peeled, is +often served with each plate of this soup, which must be clear to deserve +its name. + + +WHITE SOUP. + +Veal or chicken must be used for this soup; and the stock must always be +prepared the day beforehand, having been flavored with two chopped onions +and a cup of cut celery, or celery-seed and other seasoning, in the +proportions already given. On the day it is to be used, heat a quart of +milk; stir one tablespoonful of butter to a cream; add a heaping +tablespoonful of flour or corn-starch, a saltspoonful of mace, and the +same amount of white pepper. Stir into the boiling milk, and add to the +soup. Let all boil a moment, and then pour into the tureen. Three eggs, +beaten very light and stirred into the hot milk without boiling, make a +still richer soup. The bones of cold roast chicken or turkey may be used +in this way; and the broth of any meat, if perfectly clear, can serve as +foundation, though veal or chicken is most delicate. + + +MOCK TURTLE SOUP. + +A calf's head is usually taken for this soup; but a set of calf's feet and +a pound of lean veal answer equally well. In either case, boil the meat in +four quarts of water for five hours, reducing the amount to two quarts, +and treating as stock for clear soup. + +Remove all fat, and put on the fire next day, half an hour before dinner, +seasoning it with a saltspoonful each of mace, powdered thyme, or sweet +marjoram and clove. Melt a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a small +saucepan; add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and stir both till a +bright brown. Add soup till a smooth thickening is made, and pour it into +the soup-kettle. Cut about half a pound of the cold meat into small square +pieces,--_dice_ they are called,--and put into the tureen. Make forcemeat +balls by chopping a large cup of meat very fine; season with a +saltspoonful each of pepper and thyme; mix in the yolk of a raw egg; make +into little balls the size of a hickory-nut, and fry brown in a little +butter. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon into the tureen with (or +without) a wine-glass of sherry. Pour in the soup, and serve. If egg-balls +are desired, make them of the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed fine. +Add the yolk of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a saltspoon +of salt and half a one of pepper, and flour enough to make a dough which +can be easily handled. Roll out; cut into little dice, and make each into +a ball by rolling between the palms of the hands. Boil five minutes in the +soup. + + +MUTTON BROTH. + +Prepare and boil as directed for stock. The broth from a boiled leg of +mutton can be used, or any cheap pieces and trimmings from chops. One +small turnip and an onion will give flavoring enough. On the day it is to +be used, add to two quarts of broth half a cup of rice, and boil for half +an hour. + + +CHICKEN BROTH. + +Even an old fowl which is unusable in any other way makes excellent broth. +Prepare as in any stock, and, when used, add a tablespoonful of rice to +each quart of broth, boiling till tender. A white soup will be found the +most savory mode of preparation, the plain broth with rice being best for +children and invalids. + + +TOMATO SOUP WITHOUT MEAT. + +Materials for this soup are: one large can, or twelve fresh tomatoes; one +quart of boiling water; two onions; a small carrot; half a small turnip; +two or three sprigs of parsley, or a stalk of celery,--all cut fine, and +boiled one hour. As the water boils away, add more to it, so that the +quantity may remain the same. Season with one even tablespoonful each of +salt and sugar, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cream a tablespoonful of +butter with two heaping ones of flour, and add hot soup till it will pour +easily. Pour into the soup; boil all together for five minutes; then +strain through a sieve, and serve with toasted crackers or bread. + + +HASTY TOMATO SOUP. + +Simple but excellent. One large can of tomatoes and one pint of water +brought to the boiling-point, and rubbed through a sieve. Return to the +fire. Add half a teaspoonful of soda, and stir till it stops foaming. +Season with one even tablespoonful of salt, two of sugar, one +saltspoonful of cayenne. Thicken with two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, +and one of butter rubbed to a cream, with hot soup added till it pours +easily. Boil a pint of milk separately, and, when ready to use, pour into +the boiling tomato, and serve at once, as standing long makes the milk +liable to curdle. + + +OYSTER SOUP. + +Two quarts of perfectly fresh oysters. Strain off the juice, and add an +equal amount of water, or, if they are solid, add one pint of water, and +then strain and boil. Skim carefully. Add to one quart of milk one +tablespoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper, and, if +thickening is liked, use same proportions as in hasty tomato soup, and set +to boil. When the milk boils, put in the oysters. The moment the edges +curl a little, which will be when they have boiled one minute, they are +done, and should be served at once. Longer boiling toughens and spoils +them. This rule may be used also for stewed oysters, omitting the +thickening; or they may be put simply into the boiling juice, with the +same proportions of butter, salt, and pepper, and cooked the same length +of time. + + +CLAM SOUP. + +Fifty clams (hard or soft), boiled in a quart of water one hour. Take out, +and chop fine. Add one quart of milk, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and +one teaspoonful of salt. It will be necessary to taste, however, as some +clams are salter than others. Rub one tablespoonful of butter to a cream +with two of flour, and use as thickening. Add the chopped clams, and boil +five minutes. If the clams are disliked, simply strain through a sieve, +or cut off the hard part and use the soft only. + + +PURÉE, OF FISH, VEGETABLES, ETC. + +One pound of fresh boiled salmon, or one small can of the sealed. + +Pick out all bone and skin, and, if the canned is used, pour off every +drop of oil. Shred it as fine as possible. Boil one quart of milk, +seasoning with one teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful each of mace +and white pepper, increasing the amount slightly if more is liked. Thicken +with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of butter rubbed to a cream, +with a cup of boiling water; add thickening and salmon, and boil two +minutes. Strain into the tureen through a purée sieve, rubbing as much as +possible of the salmon through with a potato-masher, and _serve very hot_. +All that will not go through can be mixed with an equal amount of +cracker-crumbs or mashed potato, made into small cakes or rolls, and fried +in a little butter for breakfast, or treated as croquettes, and served at +dinner. + +This thickened milk is the foundation for many forms of fish and vegetable +purées. A pint of green pease, boiled, mashed, and added; or asparagus or +spinach in the same proportions can be used. _Lobster_ makes a purée as +delicious as that of salmon. Dry the "coral" in the oven; pound it fine, +and add to the milk before straining, thus giving a clear pink color. Cut +all the meat and green fat into dice, and put into the tureen, pouring the +hot milk upon it. Boiled _cod_ or _halibut_ can be used; but nothing is so +nice as the salmon, either fresh or canned. For a _Purée of Celery_ boil +one pint of cut celery in water till tender; then add to boiling milk, +and rub through the sieve. For _Potato Purée_ use six large or ten medium +sized potatoes, boiled and mashed fine; then stirred into the milk, and +strained; a large tablespoonful of chopped parsley being put in the +tureen. For a _Green-Corn Soup_ use the milk without straining; adding a +can of corn, or the corn cut from six ears of fresh boiled corn, and an +even tablespoonful of sugar, and boiling ten minutes. _Salsify_ can also +be used, the combinations being numberless, and one's own taste a safe +guide in making new ones. + + +TURTLE-BEAN SOUP. + +Wash and soak over-night, in cold water, one pint of the black or turtle +beans. In the morning put on the fire in three quarts of cold water, +which, as it boils away, must be added to, to preserve the original +quantity. Add quarter of a pound of salt pork and half a pound of lean +beef; one carrot and two onions cut fine; one tablespoonful of salt; one +saltspoonful of cayenne. Cover closely, and boil four or five hours. Rub +through a colander, having first put in the tureen three hard-boiled eggs +cut in slices, one lemon sliced thin, and half a glass of wine. This soup +is often served with small sausages which have been boiled in it for ten +minutes, and then skinned, and used either whole or cut in bits. Cold +baked beans can also be used, in which case the meat, eggs, and wine are +omitted. + + +PEA SOUP. + +One quart of dried pease, washed and soaked over-night; split pease are +best. In the morning put them on the fire with six quarts of cold water; +half a pound of salt pork; one even tablespoonful of salt; one +saltspoonful of cayenne; and one teaspoonful of celery-seed. Fry till a +bright brown three onions cut small, and add to the pease; cover closely, +and boil four or five hours. Strain through a colander, and, if not +perfectly smooth, return to fire, and add a thickening made of one heaping +teaspoonful of flour and an even one of butter, stirred together with a +little hot water and boiled five minutes. Beans can be used in precisely +the same way; and both bean and pea soups are nicer served with +_croutons_, or a thick slice of bread cut in dice, and fried brown and +crisp, or simply browned in the oven, and put into the tureen at the +moment of serving. + + +ONION SOUP. + +Take three large onions, slice them very thin, and then fry to a bright +brown in a large spoonful of either butter or stock-fat, the latter +answering equally well. When brown, add half a teacupful of flour, and +stir constantly until red. Then pour in slowly one pint of boiling water, +stirring steadily till it is all in. Boil and mash fine four large +potatoes, and stir into one quart of boiling milk, taking care that there +are no lumps. Add this to the fried onions, with one teaspoonful of salt +and half a teaspoonful of white pepper. Let all boil for five minutes, and +then serve with toasted or fried bread. Simple as this seems, it is one of +the best of the vegetable soups, though it is made richer by the use of +stock instead of water. + + +BROWNED FLOUR FOR SOUPS. + +Put a pint of sifted flour into a perfectly clean frying-pan, and stir and +turn constantly as it darkens, till the whole is an even dark brown. If +scorched at all, it is ruined, and should not be used for any purpose. As +a coloring for soups and gravies it is by no means as good as caramel or +burned sugar. + + +CARAMEL. + +Half a pound of brown sugar; one tablespoonful of water. Put into a +frying-pan, and stir steadily over the fire till it becomes a deep dark +brown in color. Then add one cup of boiling water and one teaspoonful of +salt. Boil a minute longer, bottle, and keep corked. One tablespoonful +will color a clear soup, and it can be used for many jellies, gravies, and +sauces. + + * * * * * + +FISH. + + +The most essential point in choosing fish is their _freshness_, and this +is determined as follows: if the gills are red, the eyes prominent and +full, and the whole fish stiff, they are good; but if the eyes are sunken, +the gills pale, and the fish flabby, they are stale and unwholesome, and, +though often eaten in this condition, lack all the fine flavor of a +freshly-caught fish. + +The fish being chosen, the greatest care is necessary in cleaning. If this +is properly done, one washing will be sufficient: the custom of allowing +fresh fish to lie in water after cleaning, destroys much of their flavor. + +Fresh-water fish, especially the cat-fish, have often a muddy taste and +smell. To get rid of this, soak in water strongly salted; say, a cupful of +salt to a gallon of water, letting it heat gradually in this, and boiling +it for one minute; then drying it thoroughly before cooking. + +All fish for boiling should be put into cold water, with the exception of +salmon, which loses its color unless put into boiling water. A +tablespoonful each of salt and vinegar to every two quarts of water +improves the flavor of all boiled fish, and also makes the flesh firmer. +Allow ten minutes to the pound after the fish begins to boil, and test +with a knitting-needle or sharp skewer. If it runs in easily, the fish can +be taken off. If a fish-kettle with strainer is used, the fish can be +lifted out without danger of breaking. If not, it should be thoroughly +dredged with flour, and served in a cloth kept for the purpose. In all +cases drain it perfectly, and send to table on a folded napkin laid upon +the platter. + +In frying, fish should, like all fried articles, be _immersed_ in the hot +lard or drippings. Small fish can be fried whole; larger ones boned, and +cut in small pieces. If they are egged and crumbed, the _egg_ will form a +covering, hardening at once, and absolutely impervious to fat. + +Pan-fish, as they are called,--flounders and small fish generally,--can +also be fried by rolling in Indian meal or flour, and browning in the fat +of salt pork. + +Baking and broiling preserve the flavor most thoroughly. + +Cold boiled fish can always be used, either by spicing as in the rule to +be given, or by warming again in a little butter and water. Cold fried or +broiled fish, can be put in a pan, and set in the oven till hot, this +requiring not over ten minutes; a longer time giving a strong, oily taste, +which spoils it. Plain boiled or mashed potatoes are always served with +fish where used as a dinner-course. If fish is boiled whole, do not cut +off either tail or head. The tail can be skewered in the mouth if liked; +or a large fish may be boiled in the shape of the letter S by threading a +trussing-needle, fastening a string around the head, then passing the +needle through the middle of the body, drawing the string tight and +fastening it around the tail. + + +BAKED FISH. + +Bass, fresh shad, blue-fish, pickerel, &c., can be cooked in this way:-- + +See that the fish has been properly cleaned. Wash in salted water, and +wipe dry. For stuffing for a fish weighing from four to six pounds, take +four large crackers, or four ounces of bread-crumbs; quarter of a pound of +salt pork; one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper; a +tablespoonful of chopped parsley, or a teaspoonful of thyme. Chop half the +pork fine, and mix with the crumbs and seasoning, using half a cup of hot +water to mix them, or, if preferred, a beaten egg. Put this dressing into +the body of the fish, which is then to be fastened together with a skewer. +Cut the remainder of the pork in narrow strips, and lay it in gashes cut +across the back of the fish about two inches apart. Dredge thickly with +flour, using about two tablespoonfuls. Put a tin baking-sheet in the +bottom of a pan, as without it the fish can not be easily taken up. Lay +the fish on this; pour a cup of boiling water into the pan, and bake in a +hot oven for one hour, basting it very often that the skin may not crack; +and, at the end of half an hour, dredging again with flour, repeating this +every ten minutes till the fish is done. If the water dries away, add +enough to preserve the original quantity. When the fish is done, slide it +carefully from the tin sheet on to a hot platter. Set the baking-pan on +top of the stove. Mix a teaspoonful of flour with quarter of a cup of cold +water, and stir into the boiling gravy. A tablespoonful of walnut or +mushroom catchup, or of Worcestershire sauce, may be added if liked. +_Serve very hot._ + +Before sending a baked fish to table, take out the skewer. When done, it +should have a handsome brown crust. If pork is disliked, it may be omitted +altogether, and a tablespoonful of butter substituted in the stuffing. +Basting should be done as often as once in ten minutes, else the skin will +blister and crack. Where the fish is large, it will be better to sew the +body together after stuffing, rather than to use a skewer. The string can +be cut and removed before serving. + +If any is left, it can be warmed in the remains of the gravy, or, if this +has been used, make a gravy of one cup of hot water, thickened with one +teaspoonful of flour or corn-starch stirred smooth first in a little cold +water. Add a tablespoonful of butter and any catchup or sauce desired. +Take all bones from the fish; break it up in small pieces, and stew not +over five minutes in the gravy. Or it can be mixed with an equal amount of +mashed potato or bread-crumbs, a cup of milk and an egg added, with a +teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and baked until +brown--about fifteen minutes--in a hot oven. + + +TO BOIL FISH. + +General directions have already been given. All fish must boil _very_ +gently, or the outside will break before the inside is done. In all cases +salt and a little vinegar, a teaspoonful each, are allowed to each quart +of water. Where the fish has very little flavor, Dubois' receipt for +boiling will be found exceedingly nice, and much less trouble than the +name applied by professional cooks to this method--_au court +bouillon_--would indicate. It is as follows:-- + +Mince a carrot, an onion, and one stalk of celery, and fry them in a +little butter. Add two or three sprigs of parsley, two tablespoonfuls of +salt, six pepper-corns, and three cloves. Pour on two quarts of boiling +water and one pint of vinegar, and boil for fifteen minutes. Skim as it +boils, and use, when cold, for boiling the fish. Wine can be used instead +of vinegar; and, by straining carefully and keeping in a cold place, the +same mixture can be used several times. + + +TO BROIL FISH. + +If the fish is large, it should be split, in order to insure its being +cooked through; though notches may be cut at equal distances, so that the +heat can penetrate. Small fish may be broiled whole. The gridiron should +be well greased with dripping or olive oil. If a double-wire gridiron is +used, there will be no trouble in turning either large or small fish. If a +single-wire or old-fashioned iron one, the best way is to first loosen +with a knife any part that sticks; then, holding a platter over the fish +with one hand, turn the gridiron with the other, and the fish can then be +returned to it without breaking. + +Small fish require a hot, clear fire; large ones, a more moderate one, +that the outside may not be burned before the inside is done. Cook always +with the _skin-side_ down at first, and broil to a golden brown,--this +requiring, for small fish, ten minutes; for large ones, from ten to +twenty, according to size. When done, pepper and salt lightly; and to a +two-pound fish allow a tablespoonful of butter spread over it. Set the +fish in the oven a moment, that the butter may soak in, and then serve. A +teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and half a lemon squeezed over shad or any +fresh fish, is a very nice addition. Where butter, lemon, and parsley are +blended beforehand, it makes the sauce known as _maître d'hôtel_ sauce, +which is especially good for broiled shad. + +In broiling steaks or cutlets of large fish,--say, salmon, halibut, fresh +cod, &c.,--the same general directions apply. Where very delicate broiling +is desired, the pieces of fish can be wrapped in buttered paper before +laying on the gridiron; this applying particularly to salmon. + + +TO FRY FISH. + +Small fish--such as trout, perch, smelts, &c.--may simply be rolled in +Indian meal or flour, and fried either in the fat of salt pork, or in +boiling lard or drippings. A nicer method, however, with fish, whether +small or in slices, is to dip them first in flour or fine crumbs, then in +beaten egg,--one egg, with two tablespoonfuls of cold water and half a +teaspoonful of salt, being enough for two dozen smelts; then rolling again +in crumbs or meal, and dropping into hot lard. The egg hardens instantly, +and not a drop of fat can penetrate the inside. Fry to a golden brown. +Take out with a skimmer; lay in the oven on a double brown paper for a +moment, and then serve. + +_Filets_ of fish are merely flounders, or any flat fish with few bones, +boned, skinned, and cut in small pieces; then egged and fried. + +To bone a fish of this sort, use a very sharp knife. The fish should have +been scaled, but not cleaned or cut open. Make a cut down the back from +head to tail. Now, holding the knife pressed close to the bone, cut +carefully till the fish is free on one side; then turn, and cut away the +other. To skin, take half the fish at a time firmly in one hand; hold the +blade of the knife flat as in boning, and run it slowly between skin and +flesh. Cut the fish in small diamond-shaped pieces; egg, crumb, and put +into shape with the knife; and then fry. The operation is less troublesome +than it sounds, and the result most satisfactory. + +The _bones and trimmings_ remaining can either be stewed in a pint of +water till done, adding half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of +pepper, and a tablespoonful of catchup; straining the gravy off, and +thickening with one heaping teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little +cold water: or they can be broiled. For broiled bones, mix one +saltspoonful of mustard, as much cayenne as could be taken up on the point +of a penknife, a saltspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. A +tablespoonful of olive-oil may be added, if liked. Lay the bone in this, +turning it till all is absorbed; broil over a quick fire; and _serve very +hot_. + +Fish may also be fried in batter (p. 182), or these pieces, or _filets_, +may be laid on a buttered dish; a simple drawn butter or cream sauce (p. +182) poured over them; the whole covered with rolled bread or +cracker-crumbs, dotted with bits of butter, and baked half an hour. A cup +of canned mushrooms is often added. + + +TO STEW FISH. + +Any fresh-water fish is good, cooked in this way; cat-fish which have been +soaked in salted water, to take away the muddy taste, being especially +nice. Cut the fish in small pieces. Boil two sliced onions in a cup of +water. Pour off this water; add another cup, and two tablespoonfuls of +wine, a saltspoonful of pepper, and salt to taste (about half a +teaspoonful). Put in the fish, and cook for twenty minutes. Thicken the +gravy with a heaping teaspoonful of flour, rubbed to a cream with a +teaspoonful of butter. If wine is not used, add a sprig of chopped parsley +and the juice of half a lemon. + +These methods will be found sufficient for all fresh fish, no other +special rules being necessary. Experience and individual taste will guide +their application. If the fish is oily, as in the case of mackerel or +herring, broiling will always be better than frying. If fried, let it be +with very little fat, as their own oil will furnish part. + + +TO BOIL SALT CODFISH. + +The large, white cod, which cuts into firm, solid slices, should be used. +If properly prepared, there is no need of the strong smell, which makes it +so offensive to many, and which comes only in boiling. The fish is now to +be had boned, and put up in small boxes, and this is by far the most +desirable form. In either case, lay in tepid water _skin-side up_, and +soak all night. If the skin is down, the salt, instead of soaking out, +settles against it, and is retained. Change the water in the morning, and +soak two or three hours longer; then, after scraping and cleaning +thoroughly, put in a kettle with tepid water enough to well cover it, and +set it where it will heat to the scalding-point, but _not boil_. Keep it +at this point, but never let it boil a moment. Let it cook in this way an +hour: two will do no harm. Remove every particle of bone and dark skin +before serving, sending it to table in delicate pieces, none of which +need be rejected. With egg sauce (p. 169), mashed or mealy boiled +potatoes, and sugar-beets, this makes the New-England "fish dinner" a +thing of terror when poorly prepared, but both savory and delicate where +the above rule is closely followed. + +Fish-balls, and all the various modes of using salted cod, require this +preparation beforehand. + + +SALT COD WITH CREAM. + +Flake two pounds of cold boiled salt cod very fine. Boil one pint of milk. +Mix butter the size of a small egg with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and +stir into it. Add a few sprigs of parsley or half an onion minced very +fine, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Butter a +quart pudding-dish. Put in alternate layers of dressing and fish till +nearly full. Cover the top with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, dot with +bits of butter, and brown in a quick oven about twenty minutes. The fish +may be mixed with an equal part of mashed potato, and baked; and not only +codfish, but any boiled _fresh_ fish, can be used, in which case double +the measure of salt given will be required. + + +SPICED FISH. + +Any remains of cold fresh fish may be used. Take out all bones or bits of +skin. Lay in a deep dish, and barely cover with hot vinegar in which a few +cloves and allspice have been boiled. It is ready for use as soon as cold. + + +POTTED FISH. + +Fresh herring or mackerel or shad may be used. Skin the fish, and cut in +small pieces, packing them in a small stone jar. Just cover with vinegar. +For six pounds of fish allow one tablespoonful of salt, and a dozen each +of whole allspice, cloves, and pepper-corns. Tie a thick paper over the +top of the cover, and bake five hours. The vinegar dissolves the bones +perfectly, and the fish is an excellent relish at supper. + + +FISH CHOWDER. + +Three pounds of any sort of fresh fish may be taken; but fresh cod is +always best. Six large potatoes and two onions, with half a pound of salt +pork. + +Cut the pork into dice, and fry to a light brown. Add the onions, and +brown them also. Pour the remaining fat into a large saucepan, or butter +it, as preferred. Put in a layer of potatoes, a little onion and pork, and +a layer of the fish cut in small pieces, salting and peppering each layer. +A tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper will be a mild +seasoning. A pinch of cayenne may be added, if liked. Barely cover with +boiling water, and boil for half an hour. In the meantime boil a pint of +milk, and, when at boiling-point, break into it three ship biscuit or half +a dozen large crackers; add a heaping tablespoonful of butter. Put the +chowder in a platter, and pile the softened crackers on top, pouring the +milk over all. Or the milk may be poured directly into the chowder; the +crackers laid in, and softened in the steam; and the whole served in a +tureen. Three or four tomatoes are sometimes added. In clam chowder the +same rule would be followed, substituting one hundred clams for the fish, +and using a small can of tomatoes if fresh ones were not in season. + + +STEWED OYSTERS. + +The rule already given for _oyster soup_ is an excellent one, omitting the +thickening. A simpler one is to strain the juice from a quart of oysters, +and add an equal amount of water. Bring it to boiling-point; skim +carefully; season with salt to taste, this depending on the saltness of +the oysters, half a teaspoonful being probably enough. Add a saltspoonful +of pepper, a tablespoonful of butter, and a cup of milk. The milk may be +omitted, if preferred. Add the oysters. Boil till the edges curl, and no +longer. Serve at once, as they toughen by standing. + + +FRIED OYSTERS. + +Choose large oysters, and drain thoroughly in a colander. Dry in a towel. +Dip first in sifted cracker-crumbs; then in egg, one egg beaten with a +large spoonful of cold water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a +saltspoonful of pepper, being enough for two dozen oysters. Roll again in +crumbs, and drop into boiling lard. If a wire frying-basket is used, lay +them in this. Fry to a light brown. Lay them on brown paper a moment to +drain, and serve at once on a _hot platter_. As they require hardly more +than a minute to cook, it is better to wait till all are at the table +before beginning to fry. Oysters are very good, merely fried in a little +hot butter; but the first method preserves their flavor best. + + +SCALLOPED OYSTERS. + +One quart of oysters; one large breakfast cup of cracker or bread crumbs, +the crackers being nicer if freshly toasted and rolled hot; two large +spoonfuls of butter; one teaspoonful of salt; half a teaspoonful of +pepper; one saltspoonful of mace. Mix the salt, pepper, and mace together. +Butter a pudding-dish; heat the juice with the seasoning and butter, +adding a teacup of milk or cream if it can be had, though water will +answer. Put alternate layers of crumbs and oysters, filling the dish in +this way. Pour the juice over, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. If +not well browned, heat a shovel red-hot, and brown the top with that; +longer baking toughening the oysters. + + +OYSTERS FOR PIE OR PATTIES. + +One quart of oysters put on to boil in their own liquor. Turn them while +boiling into a colander to drain. Melt a piece of butter the size of an +egg in the saucepan, add a tablespoonful of sifted flour, and stir one +minute. Pour in the oyster liquor slowly, which must be not less than a +large cupful. Beat the yolks of two eggs thoroughly with a saltspoonful of +salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and one of mace. Add to the boiling +liquor, but do not let it boil. Put in the oysters, and either use them to +fill a pie, the form for which is already baked, for patties for dinner, +or serve them on thin slices of buttered toast for breakfast or tea. + + +SPICED OR PICKLED OYSTERS. + +To a gallon of large, fine oysters, allow one pint of cider or white-wine +vinegar; one tablespoonful of salt; one grated nutmeg; eight blades of +mace; three dozen cloves, and as many whole allspice; and a saltspoon even +full of cayenne pepper. Strain the oyster juice, and bring to the +boiling-point in a porcelain-lined kettle. Skim carefully as it boils up. +Add the vinegar, and skim also, throwing in the spices and salt when it +has boiled a moment. Boil all together for five minutes, and then pour +over the oysters, adding a lemon cut in very thin slices. They are ready +for the table next day, but will keep a fortnight or more in a cold place. +If a sharp pickle is desired, use a quart instead of a pint of vinegar. + + +SMOTHERED OYSTERS (_Maryland fashion_). + +Drain all the juice from a quart of oysters. Melt in a frying-pan a piece +of butter the size of an egg, with as much cayenne pepper as can be taken +up on the point of a penknife, and a saltspoonful of salt. Put in the +oysters, and cover closely. They are done as soon as the edges ruffle. +Serve on thin slices of buttered toast as a breakfast or supper dish. A +glass of sherry is often added. + + +OYSTER OR CLAM FRITTERS. + +Chop twenty-five clams or oysters fine, and mix them with a batter made as +follows: One pint of flour, in which has been sifted one heaping +teaspoonful of baking-powder and half a teaspoonful of salt; one large cup +of milk, and two eggs well beaten. Stir eggs and milk together; add the +flour slowly; and, last, the clams or oysters. Drop by spoonfuls into +boiling lard. Fry to a golden brown, and serve at once; or they may be +fried like pancakes in a little hot fat. Whole clams or oysters may be +used instead of chopped ones, and fried singly. + + +TO BOIL LOBSTERS OR CRABS. + +Be sure that the lobster is alive, as, if dead, it will not be fit to use. +Have water boiling in a large kettle, and, holding the lobster or crab by +the back, drop it in head foremost; the reason for this being, that the +animal dies instantly when put in in this way. An hour is required for a +medium-sized lobster, the shell turning red when done. When cold, the meat +can be used either plain or in salad, or cooked in various ways. A +can-opener will be found very convenient in opening a lobster. + + +STEWED OR CURRIED LOBSTER. + +Cut the meat into small bits, and add the green fat, and the coral which +is found only in the hen-lobster. Melt in a saucepan one tablespoonful of +butter and a heaping tablespoonful of flour. Stir smoothly together, +adding slowly one large cup of either stock or milk, a saltspoonful of +mace, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Put in +the lobster, and cook for ten minutes. For curry, simply add one +teaspoonful of curry-powder. This stewed lobster may also be put in the +shell of the back, which has been cleaned and washed, bread or cracker +crumbs sprinkled over it, and browned in the oven; or it may be treated as +a scallop, buttering a dish, and putting in alternate layers of crumbs and +lobster, ending with crumbs. Crabs, though more troublesome to extract +from the shell, are almost equally good, treated in any of the ways given. + + * * * * * + +MEATS. + + +The qualities and characteristics of meats have already been spoken of in +Part I., and it is necessary here to give only a few simple rules for +marketing. + +The best BEEF is of a clear red color, slightly marbled with fat, and the +fat itself of a clear white. Where the beef is dark red or bluish, and the +fat yellow, it is too old, or too poorly fed, to be good. The sirloin and +ribs, especially the sixth, seventh, and eighth, make the best +roasting-pieces. The ribs can be removed and used for stock, and the beef +rolled or skewered firmly, making a piece very easily carved, and almost +as presentable the second day as the first. For steaks sirloin is nearly +as good, and much more economical, than porter-house, which gives only a +small eatable portion, the remainder being only fit for the stock-pot. If +the beef be very young and tender, steaks from the round may be used; but +these are usually best stewed. Other pieces and modes of cooking are given +under their respective heads. + +MUTTON should be a light, clear red, and the fat very white and firm. It +is always improved by keeping, and in cold weather can be hung for a +month, if carefully watched to see that it has not become tainted. Treated +in this way, well-fed mutton is equal to venison. If the fat is deep +yellow, and the lean dark red, the animal is too old; and no keeping will +make it really good eating. Four years is considered the best age for +prime mutton. + +VEAL also must have clear white fat, and should be fine in grain. If the +kidney is covered with firm white fat, it indicates health, and the meat +is good; if yellow, it is unwholesome, and should not be eaten. The loin +and fillet are used in roasting, and are the choice pieces, the breast +coming next, and the neck and ribs being good for stewing and fricassees. + +PORK should have fine, white fat, and the meat should be white and smooth. +Only country-fed pork should ever be eaten, the pig even then being +liable to diseases unknown to other animals, and the meat, even when +carefully fed, being at all times less digestible than any sort. _Bacon_, +carefully cured and smoked, is considered its most wholesome form. + +POULTRY come last. The best _Turkeys_ have black legs; and, if young, the +toes and bill are soft and pliable. The combs of fowls should be bright +colored, and the legs smooth. + +_Geese_, if young and fine, are plump in the breast, have white soft fat, +and yellow feet. + +_Ducks_ are chosen by the same rule as geese, and are firm and thick on +the breast. + +_Pigeons_ should be fresh, the breast plump, and the feet elastic. Only +experience can make one familiar with other signs; and a good butcher can +usually be trusted to tide one over the season of inexperience, though the +sooner it ends the better for all parties concerned. + + +BOILED MEATS AND STEWS. + +All meats intended to be boiled and served whole at table must be put into +_boiling water_, thus following an entirely opposite rule from those +intended for soups. In the latter, the object being to extract all the +juice, cold water must always be used first, and then heated with the meat +in. In the former, all the juice is to be kept in; and, by putting into +boiling water, the albumen of the meat hardens on the surface and makes a +case or coating for the meat, which accomplishes this end. Where something +between a soup and plain boiled meat is desired, as in _beef bouilli_, the +meat is put on in cold water, which is brought to a boil _very quickly_, +thus securing good gravy, yet not robbing the meat of all its juices. +With corned or salted meats, tongue, &c., cold water must be used, and +half an hour to the pound allowed. If to be eaten cold, such meats should +always be allowed to cool in the water in which they were boiled; and this +water, if not too salt, can be used for dried bean or pea soups. + + +BEEF À LA MODE. + +Six or eight pounds of beef from the round, cut thick. Take out the bone, +trim off all rough bits carefully, and rub the meat well with the +following spicing: One teaspoonful each of pepper and ground clove, +quarter of a cup of brown sugar, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Mix these +all together, and rub thoroughly into the beef, which must stand +over-night. + +Next morning make a stuffing of one pint of bread or cracker crumbs; one +large onion chopped fine; a tablespoonful of sweet marjoram or thyme; half +a teaspoonful each of pepper and ground clove, and a heaping teaspoonful +of salt. Add a large cup of hot water, in which has been melted a heaping +tablespoonful of butter, and stir into the crumbs. Beat an egg light, and +mix with it. If there is more than needed to fill the hole, make gashes in +the meat, and stuff with the remainder. Now bind into shape with a strip +of cotton cloth, sewing or tying it firmly. Put a trivet or small iron +stand into a soup-pot, and lay the beef upon it. Half cover it with cold +water; put in two onions stuck with three cloves each, a large +tablespoonful of salt, and a half teaspoonful of pepper; and stew very +slowly, allowing half an hour to the pound, and turning the meat twice +while cooking. At the end of this time take off the cloth, and put the +meat, which must remain on the trivet, in a roasting-pan. Dredge it +quickly with flour, set into a hot oven, and brown thoroughly. Baste once +with the gravy, and dredge again, the whole operation requiring about half +an hour. The water in the pot should have been reduced to about a pint. +Pour this into the roasting-pan after the meat is taken up, skimming off +every particle of fat. Thicken with a heaping tablespoonful of browned +flour, stirred smooth in a little cold water, and add a tablespoonful of +catchup and two of wine, if desired, though neither is necessary. Taste, +as a little more salt may be required. + +The thick part of a leg of veal may be treated in the same manner, both +being good either hot or cold; and a round of beef may be also used +without spicing or stuffing, and browned in the same way, the remains +being either warmed in the gravy or used for hashes or croquettes. + + +BEEF À LA MODE (_Virginia fashion_). + +Use the round, as in the foregoing receipt, and remove the bone; and for +eight pounds allow half a pint of good vinegar; one large onion minced +fine; half a teaspoonful each of mustard, black pepper, clove, and +allspice; and two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar. Cut half a pound of fat +salt pork into lardoons, or strips, two or three inches long and about +half an inch square. Boil the vinegar with the onion and seasoning, and +pour over the strips of pork, and let them stand till cold. Then pour off +the liquor, and thicken it with bread or cracker crumbs. Make incisions in +the beef at regular intervals,--a carving-steel being very good for this +purpose,--and push in the strips of pork. Fill the hole from which the +bone was taken with the rest of the pork and the dressing, and tie the +beef firmly into shape. Put two tablespoonfuls of dripping or lard in a +frying-pan, and brown the meat on all sides. This will take about half an +hour. Now put the meat on a trivet in the kettle; half cover with boiling +water; and add a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, an onion +and a small carrot cut fine, and two or three sprigs of parsley. Cook very +slowly, allowing half an hour to a pound, and make gravy by the directions +given for it in the preceding receipt. + +_Braised beef_ is prepared by either method given here for _à la mode_ +beef, but cooked in a covered iron pan, which comes for the purpose, and +which is good also for beef _à la mode_, or for any tough meat which +requires long cooking, and is made tenderer by keeping in all the steam. + + +BOILED MUTTON. + +A _shoulder_, or _fore-quarter_, of mutton, weighing five or six pounds, +will boil in an hour, as it is so thin. The _leg_, or _hind-quarter_, +requires twenty minutes to the pound; though, if very young and tender, it +will do in less. It can be tried with a knitting-needle to see if it is +tender. It is made whiter and more delicate by boiling in a cloth, but +should be served without it. Boil in well-salted water according to the +rule already given. Boiled or mashed turnips are usually served with it, +and either drawn butter or caper sauce as on p. 169. + +_Lamb_ may be boiled in the same manner, but is better roasted; and so +also with _veal_. + + +BOILED CORNED BEEF. + +If to be eaten hot, the _round_ is the best piece. If cold and pressed, +what are called "_plate pieces_"--that is, the brisket, the flank, and +the thin part of the ribs--may be used. Wash, and put into cold water, +allowing half an hour to a pound after it begins to boil. If to be eaten +cold, let it stand in the water till nearly cold, as this makes it richer. +Take out all bones from a thin piece; wrap in a cloth, and put upon a +large platter. Lay a tin sheet over it, and set on a heavy +weight,--flat-irons will do,--and let it stand over-night. Or the meat may +be picked apart with a knife and fork; the fat and lean evenly mixed and +packed into a pan, into which a smaller pan is set on top of the meat, and +the weight in this. Thus marbled slices may be had. All corned beef is +improved by pressing, and all trimmings from it can be used in hash or +croquettes. + + +BOILED TONGUE. + +Smoked tongue will be found much better than either fresh or pickled +tongues. + +Soak it over night, after washing it. Put on in cold water, and boil +steadily four hours. Then take out; peel off the skin, and return to the +water to cool. Cut in _lengthwise_ slices, as this makes it tenderer. The +root of the tongue may be chopped very fine, and seasoned like deviled ham +(p. 265). + + +BOILED HAM. + +Small hams are better in flavor and quality than large ones. A brush +should be kept to scrub them with, as it is impossible to get them clean +without it. Soak over-night in plenty of cold water. Next morning, scrape, +and trim off all the hard black parts, scrubbing it well. Put on to boil +in cold water. Let it heat very gradually. Allow half an hour to the +pound. When done, take from the water, skin, and return, letting it remain +till cold. Dot with spots of black pepper, and cover the knuckle with a +frill of white paper. It is much nicer, whether eaten hot or cold, if +covered with bread or cracker crumbs and browned in the oven. The fat is +useless, save for soap-grease. In carving, cut down in thin slices through +the middle. The knuckle can always be deviled (p. 265). A _leg of pork_ +which has simply been corned is boiled in the same way as ham, soaking +over-night, and browning in the oven or not, as liked. + + +IRISH STEW. + +This may be made of either beef or mutton, though mutton is generally +used. Reject all bones, and trim off all fat and gristle, reserving these +for the stock-pot. Cut the meat in small pieces, not over an inch square, +and cover with cold water. Skim carefully as it boils up, and see that the +water is kept at the same level by adding as it boils away. For two pounds +of meat allow two sliced onions, eight good-sized potatoes, two +teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, and +cook for two hours. Thicken the gravy with one tablespoonful of flour +stirred smooth in a little cold water, and serve very hot. The trimmings +from a fore-quarter of mutton will be enough for a stew, leaving a +well-shaped roast besides. If beef is used, add one medium-sized carrot +cut fine, and some sprigs of parsley. Such a stew would be called by a +French cook a _ragoût_, and can be made of any pieces of meat or poultry. + + +WHITE STEW, OR FRICASSEE. + +Use _veal_ for this stew, allowing an hour to a pound of meat, and the +same proportions of salt and pepper as in the preceding receipt, adding a +saltspoonful of mace. Thicken, when done, with one heaping tablespoonful +of flour rubbed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an egg, and one +cup of hot milk added just at the last. A cauliflower nicely boiled, cut +up, and stewed with it a moment, is very nice. + +This stew becomes a _pot-pie_ by making a nice biscuit-crust, as on p. +164; cutting it out in rounds, and laying in the kettle half an hour +before the stew is done. Cover closely, and do not turn them. Lay them, +when done, around the edge of the platter; pile the meat in the centre, +and pour over it the thickened gravy. Two beaten eggs are sometimes added, +and it is then called a _blanquette_ of veal. + + +BROWN STEW OR FRICASSEE. + +To make these stews the meat is cut in small pieces, and browned on each +side in a little hot dripping; or, if preferred, quarter of a pound of +pork is cut in thin slices and fried crisp, the fat from it being used for +browning. Cover the meat with warm water when done. If a stew, any +vegetables liked can be added; a fricassee never containing them, having +only meat and a gravy, thickened with browned flour and seasoned in the +proportions already given. Part of a can of mushrooms may be used with a +beef stew, and a glass of wine added; this making a _ragoût with +mushrooms_. The countless receipts one sees in large cook-books for +ragoûts and fricassees are merely variations in the flavoring of simple +stews; and, after a little experimenting, any one can improvise her own, +remembering that the strongly-flavored vegetables (as carrots) belong +especially to dark meats, and the more delicate ones to light. Fresh pork +is sometimes used in a white fricassee, in which case a little powdered +sage is better than mace as a seasoning. + +_Curries_ can be made by adding a heaping teaspoonful of curry-powder to a +brown fricassee, and serving with boiled rice; put the rice around the +edge of the platter, and pour the curry in the middle. Chicken makes the +best curry; but veal is very good. In a genuine East-Indian curry, +lemon-juice and grated cocoa-nut are added; but it is an unwholesome +combination. + + +BEEF ROLLS. + +Two pounds of steak from the round, cut in very thin slices. Trim off all +fat and gristle, and cut into pieces about four inches square. Now cut +_very thin_ as many slices of salt pork as you have slices of steak, +making them a little smaller. Mix together one teaspoonful of salt and one +of thyme or summer savory, and one saltspoonful of pepper. Lay the pork on +a square of steak; sprinkle with the seasoning; roll up tightly, and tie. +When all are tied, put the bits of fat and trimmings into a hot +frying-pan, and add a tablespoonful of drippings. Lay in the rolls, and +brown on all sides, which will require about ten minutes; then put them in +a saucepan. Add to the fat in the pan a heaping tablespoonful of flour, +and stir till a bright brown. Pour in gradually one quart of boiling +water, and then strain it over the beef rolls. Cover closely, and cook two +hours, or less if the steak is tender, stirring now and then to prevent +scorching. Take off the strings before serving. These rolls can be +prepared without the pork, and are very nice; or a whole beefsteak can be +used, covering it with a dressing made as for stuffed veal, and then +rolling; tying at each end, browning, and stewing in the same way. This +can be eaten cold or hot; while the small rolls are much better hot. If +wanted as a breakfast dish, they can be cooked the day beforehand, left in +the gravy, and simply heated through next morning. + + +BRUNSWICK STEW. + +Two squirrels or small chickens; one quart of sliced tomatoes; one pint of +sweet corn; one pint of lima or butter beans; one quart of sliced +potatoes; two onions; half a pound of fat salt pork. + +Cut the pork in slices, and fry brown; cut the squirrels or chickens in +pieces, and brown a little, adding the onion cut fine. Now put all the +materials in a soup-pot; cover with two quarts of boiling water, and +season with one tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half a +teaspoonful of cayenne pepper. Stew slowly for four hours. Just before +serving, cream a large spoonful of butter with a heaping tablespoonful of +flour; thin with the broth, and pour in, letting all cook five minutes +longer. To be eaten in soup-plates. + + +ROASTED MEATS. + +Our roasted meats are really _baked_ meats; but ovens are now so well made +and ventilated, that there is little difference of flavor in the two +processes. + +Allow ten minutes to the pound if the meat is liked rare, and from twelve +to fifteen, if well done. It is always better to place the meat on a +trivet or stand made to fit easily in the roasting-pan, so that it may not +become sodden in the water used for gravy. Put into a hot oven, that the +surface may soon sear over and hold in the juices, enough of which will +escape for the gravy. All rough bits should have been trimmed off, and a +joint of eight or ten pounds rubbed with a tablespoonful of salt. Dredge +thickly with flour, and let it brown on the meat before basting it, which +must be done as often as once in fifteen minutes. Pepper lightly. If the +water in the pan dries away, add enough to have a pint for gravy in the +end. Dredge with flour at least twice, as this makes a crisp and +relishable outer crust. Take up the meat, when done, on a hot platter. +Make the gravy in the roasting-pan, by setting it on top of the stove, and +first scraping up all the browning from the corners and bottom. If there +is much fat, pour it carefully off. If the dredging has been well managed +while roasting, the gravy will be thick enough. If not, stir a teaspoonful +of browned flour smooth in cold water, and add. Should the gravy be too +light, color with a teaspoonful of caramel, and taste to see that the +seasoning is right. + +_Mutton_ requires fifteen minutes to the pound, unless preferred rare, in +which case ten will be sufficient. If a tin kitchen is used, fifteen +minutes for beef, and twenty for mutton, will be needed. + + +STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON. + +Have the butcher take out the first joint in a leg of mutton; or it can be +done at home by using a very sharp, narrow-bladed knife, and holding it +close to the bone. Rub in a tablespoonful of salt, and then fill with a +dressing made as follows: One pint of fine bread or cracker crumbs, in +which have been mixed dry one even tablespoonful of salt and one of summer +savory or thyme, and one teaspoonful of pepper. Chop one onion very fine, +and add to it, with one egg well beaten. Melt a piece of butter the size +of an egg in a cup of hot water, and pour on the crumbs. If not enough to +thoroughly moisten them, add a little more. Either fasten with a skewer, +or sew up, and roast as in previous directions. Skim all the fat from the +gravy, as the flavor of mutton-fat is never pleasant. A tablespoonful of +currant jelly may be put into the gravy-tureen, and the gravy strained +upon it. The meat must be basted, and dredged with flour, as carefully as +beef. Both the shoulder and saddle are roasted in the same way, but +without stuffing; and the leg may be also, though used to more advantage +with one. + +Lamb requires less time; a leg weighing six pounds needing but one hour, +or an hour and a quarter if roasted before an open fire. + + +ROAST VEAL. + +Veal is so dry a meat, that a moist dressing is almost essential. This +dressing may be made as in the previous receipt; or, instead of butter, +quarter of a pound of salt pork can be chopped fine, and mixed with it. If +the loin is used,--and this is always best,--take out the bone to the +first joint, and fill the hole with dressing, as in the leg of mutton. In +using the breast, bone also, reserving the bones for stock; lay the +dressing on it; roll, and tie securely. Baste often. Three or four thin +slices of salt pork may be laid on the top; or, if this is not liked, melt +a tablespoonful of butter in a cup of hot water, and baste with that. +Treat it as in directions for roasted meats, but allow a full half-hour to +the pound, and make the gravy as for beef. Cold veal makes so many nice +dishes, that a large piece can always be used satisfactorily. + + +ROAST PORK. + +Bone the leg as in mutton, and stuff; substituting sage for the sweet +marjoram, and using two onions instead of one. Allow half an hour to the +pound, and make gravy as for roast beef. Spare-ribs are considered most +delicate; and both are best eaten cold, the hot pork being rather gross, +and, whether hot or cold, less digestible than any other meat. + + +ROAST VENISON. + +In winter venison can be kept a month; and, in all cases, it should hang +in a cold place at least a month before using. Allow half an hour to a +pound in roasting, and baste very often. Small squares of salt pork are +sometimes inserted in incisions made here and there, and help to enrich +the gravy. In roasting a haunch it is usually covered with a thick paste +of flour and water, and a paper tied over this, not less than four hours +being required to roast it. At the end of three, remove the paper and +paste, dredge and baste till well browned. The last basting is with a +glass of claret; and this, and half a small glass of currant jelly are +added to the gravy. Venison steaks are treated as in directions for +broiled meats. + + +BAKED PORK AND BEANS. + +Pick over one quart of dried beans, what is known as "navy beans" being +the best, and soak over-night in plenty of cold water. + +Turn off the water in the morning, and put on to boil in cold water till +tender,--at least one hour. An earthen pot is always best for this, as a +shallow dish does not allow enough water to keep them from drying. Drain +off the water. Put the beans in the pot. Take half a pound of salt pork, +fat and lean together being best. Score the skin in small squares with a +knife, and bury it, all but the surface of this rind, in the beans. Cover +them completely with boiling water. Stir in one tablespoonful of salt, and +two of good molasses. Cover, and bake slowly,--not less than five +hours,--renewing the water if it bakes away. Take off the cover an hour +before they are done, that the pork may brown a little. If pork is +disliked, use a large spoonful of butter instead. Cold baked beans can be +warmed in a frying-pan with a little water, and are even better than at +first, or they can be used in a soup as in directions given. A teaspoonful +of made mustard is sometimes stirred in, and gives an excellent flavor to +a pot of baked beans. Double the quality if the family is large, as they +keep perfectly well in winter, the only season at which so hearty a dish +is required, save for laborers. + + +BROILED AND FRIED MEATS. + +If the steak is tender, never pound or chop it. If there is much fat, trim +it off, or it will drop on the coals and smoke. If tough, as in the +country is very likely to be the case, pounding becomes necessary, but a +better method is to use the chopping-knife; not chopping through, but +going lightly over the whole surface. Broken as it may seem, it closes at +once on the application of a quick heat. + +The best _broiler_ is by all means a light wire one, which can be held in +the hand and turned quickly. The fire should be quick and hot. Place the +steak in the centre of the broiler, and hold it close to the coals an +instant on each side, letting both sear over before broiling really +begins. + +Where a steak has been cut three-quarters of an inch thick, ten minutes +will be sufficient to cook it rare, and fifteen will make it well done. +Turn almost constantly, and, when done, serve at once on a _hot dish_. +Never salt broiled meats beforehand, as it extracts the juices. Cut up a +tablespoonful of butter, and let it melt on the hot dish, turning the +steak in it once or twice. Salt and pepper lightly, and, if necessary to +have it stand at all, cover with an earthen dish, or stand in the open +oven. _Chops_ and _cutlets_ are broiled in the same way. Veal is so dry a +meat that it is better fried. + +Where broiling for any reason cannot be conveniently done, the next best +method is to heat a frying-pan very hot; grease it with a bit of fat cut +from the steak, just enough to prevent it from sticking. Turn almost as +constantly as in broiling, and season in the same way when done. Venison +steaks are treated in the same manner. + + +VEAL CUTLETS. + +Fry four or five slices of salt pork till brown, or use drippings instead, +if this fat is disliked. Let the cutlets, which are best cut from the leg, +be made as nearly of a size as possible; dip them in well-beaten egg and +then in cracker-crumbs, and fry to a golden brown. Where the veal is +tough, it is better to parboil it for ten or fifteen minutes before +frying. + + +PORK STEAK. + +Pork steaks or chops should be cut quite thin, and sprinkled with pepper +and salt and a little powdered sage. Have the pan hot; put in a +tablespoonful of dripping, and fry the pork slowly for twenty minutes, +turning often. A gravy can be made for these, and for veal cutlets also, +by mixing a tablespoonful of flour with the fat left in the pan, and +stirring it till a bright brown, then adding a large cup of boiling water, +and salt to taste; a saltspoonful being sufficient, with half the amount +of pepper. + +Pigs' liver, which many consider very nice, is treated in precisely the +same way, using a teaspoonful of powdered sage to two pounds of liver. + + +FRIED HAM OR BACON. + +Cut the ham in very thin slices. Take off the rind, and, if the ham is old +or hard, parboil it for five minutes. Have the pan hot, and, unless the +ham is quite fat, use a teaspoonful of drippings. Turn the slices often, +and cook from five to eight minutes. They can be served dry, or, if gravy +is liked, add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat, stir till smooth, and +pour in slowly a large cup of milk or water. Salt pork can be fried in the +same way. If eggs are to be fried with the ham, take up the slices, break +in the eggs, and dip the boiling fat over them as they fry. If there is +not fat enough, add half a cup of lard. To make each egg round, put +muffin-rings into the frying-pan, and break an egg into each, pouring the +boiling fat over them from a spoon till done, which will be in from three +to five minutes. Serve one on each slice of ham, and make no gravy. The +fat can be strained, and used in frying potatoes. + + +FRIED TRIPE. + +The tripe can be merely cut in squares, rolled in flour, salted and +peppered, and fried brown in drippings, or the pieces may be dipped in a +batter made as for clam fritters, or egged and crumbed like oysters, and +fried. In cities it can be bought already prepared. In the country it must +first be cleaned, and then boiled till tender. + + +TO WARM COLD MEATS. + +Cold roast beef should be cut in slices, the gravy brought to +boiling-point, and each slice dipped in just long enough to heat, as +stewing in the gravy toughens it. Rare mutton is treated in the same way, +but is nicer warmed in a chafing-dish at table, adding a tablespoonful of +currant jelly and one of wine to the gravy. Venison is served in the same +manner. Veal and pork can cook in the gravy without toughening, and so +with turkey and chicken. Cold duck or game is very nice warmed in the same +way as mutton, the bones in all cases being reserved for stock. + + * * * * * + +POULTRY. + + +TO CLEAN POULTRY. + +First be very careful to singe off all down by holding over a blazing +paper, or a little alcohol burning in a saucer. Cut off the feet and ends +of the wings, and the neck as far as it is dark. If the fowl is killed at +home, be sure that the head is chopped off, and never allow the neck to be +wrung as is often done. It is not only an unmerciful way of killing, but +the blood has thus no escape, and settles about all the vital organs. The +head should be cut off, and the body hang and bleed thoroughly before +using. + +Pick out all the pin-feathers with the blade of a small knife. Turn back +the skin of the neck, loosening it with the finger and thumb, and draw out +the windpipe and crop, which can be done without making any cut. Now cut a +slit in the lower part of the fowl, the best place being close to the +thigh. By working the fingers in slowly, keeping them close to the body, +the whole intestines can be removed in a mass. Be especially careful not +to break the gall-bag, which is near the upper part of the breastbone, and +attached to the liver. If this operation is carefully performed, it will +be by no means so disagreeable as it seems. A French cook simply wipes out +the inside, considering that much flavor is lost by washing. I prefer to +wash in one water, and dry quickly, though in the case of an old fowl, +which often has a strong smell, it is better to dissolve a teaspoonful of +soda in the first water, which should be warm, and wash again in cold, +then wiping dry as possible. Split and wash the gizzard, reserving it for +gravy. + + +DRESSING FOR POULTRY. + +One pint of bread or cracker crumbs, into which mix dry one teaspoonful of +pepper, one of thyme or summer savory, one even tablespoonful of salt, +and, if in season, a little chopped parsley. Melt a piece of butter the +size of an egg in one cup of boiling water, and mix with the crumbs, +adding one or two well-beaten eggs. A slice of salt pork chopped fine is +often substituted for the butter. + +For _ducks_ two onions are chopped fine, and added to the above; or a +potato dressing is made, as for geese, using six large boiled potatoes, +mashed hot, and seasoned with an even tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful +each of sage and pepper, and two chopped onions. + +_Game_ is usually roasted unstuffed; but grouse and prairie-chickens may +have the same dressing as chickens and turkeys, this being used also for +boiled fowls. + + +ROAST TURKEY. + +Prepare by cleaning, as in general directions above, and, when dry, rub +the inside with a teaspoonful of salt. Put the gizzard, heart, and liver +on the fire in a small saucepan, with one quart of boiling water and one +teaspoonful of salt, and boil two hours. Put a little stuffing in the +breast, and fold back the skin of the neck, holding it with a stitch or +with a small skewer. Put the remainder in the body, and sew it up with +darning-cotton. Cross and tie the legs down tight, and run a skewer +through the wings to fasten them to the body. Lay it in the roasting-pan, +and for an eight-pound turkey allow not less than three hours' time, a ten +or twelve pound one needing four. Put a pint of boiling water with one +teaspoonful of salt in the pan, and add to it as it dries away. Melt a +heaping tablespoonful of butter in the water, and baste very often. The +secret of a handsomely-browned turkey, lies in this frequent basting. +Dredge over the flour two or three times, as in general roasting +directions, and turn the turkey so that all sides will be reached. When +done, take up on a hot platter. Put the baking-pan on the stove, having +before this chopped the gizzard and heart fine, and mashed the liver, and +put them in the gravy-tureen. Stir a tablespoonful of brown flour into +the gravy in the pan, scraping up all the brown, and add slowly the water +in which the giblets were boiled, which should be about a pint. Strain on +to the chopped giblets, and taste to see if salt enough. The gravy for all +roast poultry is made in this way. Serve with cranberry sauce or jelly. + + +ROAST OR BOILED CHICKENS. + +Stuff and truss as with turkeys, and to a pair of chickens weighing two +and a half pounds each, allow one hour to roast, basting often, and making +a gravy as in preceding receipt. + +Boil as in rule for turkeys. + + +ROAST DUCK. + +After cleaning, stuff as in rule given for poultry dressing, and +roast,--if game, half an hour; if tame, one hour, making gravy as in +directions given, and serving with currant jelly. + + +ROAST GOOSE. + +No fat save its own is needed in basting a goose, which, if large, +requires two hours to roast. Skim off as much fat as possible before +making the gravy, as it has a strong taste. + + +BIRDS. + +Small birds may simply be washed and wiped dry, tied firmly, and roasted +twenty minutes, dredging with flour, basting with butter and water, and +adding a little currant jelly or wine to the gravy. They may be served on +toast. + + +FRIED CHICKEN. + +Cut the chicken into nice pieces for serving. Roll in flour, or, if +preferred, in beaten egg and crumbs. Heat a cupful of nice dripping or +lard; add a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; lay in the +pieces, and fry brown on each side, allowing not less than twenty minutes +for the thickest pieces and ten for the thin ones. Lay on a hot platter, +and make a gravy by adding one tablespoonful of flour to the fat, stirring +smooth, and adding slowly one cupful of boiling water or stock. Strain +over the chicken. Milk or cream is often used instead of water. + + +BROWN FRICASSEE. + +Fry one or two chickens as above, using only flour to roll them in. Three +or four slices of salt pork may be used, cutting them in bits, and frying +brown, before putting in the chicken. When fried, lay the pieces in a +saucepan, and cover with warm water, adding one teaspoonful of salt and a +saltspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, and stew one hour, or longer if the +chickens are old. Take up the pieces, and thicken the gravy with one +tablespoonful of flour, first stirred smooth in a little cold water. Or +the flour may be added to the fat in the pan after frying, and water +enough for a thin gravy, which can all be poured into the saucepan, though +with this method there is more danger of burning. If not dark enough, +color with a teaspoonful of caramel. By adding a chopped onion fried in +the fat, and a teaspoonful of curry-powder, this becomes a curry, to be +served with boiled rice. + + +WHITE FRICASSEE. + +Cut up the chicken as in brown fricassee, and stew without frying for an +hour and a half, reducing the water to about one pint. Take up the chicken +on a hot platter. Melt one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add +a heaping tablespoonful of flour, stirring constantly till smooth. Pour in +slowly one cup of milk, and, as it boils and thickens, add the chicken +broth, and serve. This becomes a pot-pie by adding biscuit-crust as in +rule for veal pot-pie, p. 150, and serving in the same way. The same crust +may also be used with a brown fricassee, but is most customary with a +white. + + +CHICKEN PIE. + +Make a fricassee, as above directed, either brown or white, as best liked, +and a nice pie-crust, as on p. 224, or a biscuit-crust if pie-crust is +considered too rich. Line a deep baking-dish with the crust; a good way +being to use a plain biscuit-crust for the lining, and pie-crust for the +lid. Lay in the cooked chicken; fill up with the gravy, and cover with +pastry, cutting a round hole in the centre; and bake about three-quarters +of an hour. The top can be decorated with leaves made from pastry, and in +this case will need to have a buttered paper laid over it for the first +twenty minutes, that they need not burn. Eat either cold or hot. Game pies +can be made in the same way, and veal is a very good substitute for +chicken. Where veal is used, a small slice of ham may be added, and a +little less salt; both veal and ham being cut very small before filling +the pie. + + +BOILED TURKEY. + +Clean, stuff, and truss the fowl selected, as for a roasted turkey. The +body is sometimes filled with oysters. To truss in the tightest and most +compact way, run a skewer under the leg-joint between the leg and the +thigh, then through the body and under the opposite leg-joint in the same +way; push the thighs up firmly close to the sides; wind a string about the +ends of the skewer, and tie it tight. Treat the wings in the same way, +though in boiled fowls the points are sometimes drawn under the back, and +tied there. The turkey may be boiled with or without cloth around it. In +either case use _boiling_ water, salted as for stock, and allow twenty +minutes to the pound. It is usually served with oyster sauce, but parsley +or capers may be used instead. + + +CHICKEN CROQUETTES. + +Take all the meat from a cold roast or boiled chicken, and chop moderately +fine. Mince an onion very small, and fry brown in a piece of butter the +size of an egg. Add one small cup of stock or water; one saltspoonful each +of pepper and mace; one teaspoonful of salt; the juice of half a lemon; +two well-beaten eggs; and, if liked, a glass of wine. Make into small +rolls like corks, or mold in a pear shape, sticking in a clove for the +stem when fried. Roll in sifted cracker-crumbs; dip in an egg beaten with +a spoonful of water, and again in crumbs; put in the frying-basket, and +fry in boiling lard. Drain on brown paper, and pile on a napkin in +serving. + +A more delicate croquette is made by using simply the white meat, and +adding a set of calf's brains which have been boiled in salted water. A +cupful of boiled rice mashed fine is sometimes substituted for the +brains. Use same seasoning as above, adding quarter of a saltspoonful of +cayenne, omitting the wine, and using instead half a cup of cream or milk. +Fry as directed. Veal croquettes can hardly be distinguished from those of +chicken. + + +PHILADELPHIA CHICKEN CROQUETTES. + +The croquette first given is dry when fried, and even the second form is +somewhat so, many preferring them so. For the creamy delicious veal, +sweetbread, or chicken croquette one finds in Philadelphia, the following +materials are necessary: one pint of hot cream; two even tablespoonfuls of +butter; four heaping tablespoonfuls of sifted flour; half a teaspoonful of +salt; half a saltspoonful of white pepper; a dust of cayenne; half a +teaspoonful of celery salt; and one teaspoonful of onion juice. Scald the +cream in a double boiler. Melt the butter in an enameled or granite +saucepan, and as it boils, stir in the flour, stirring till perfectly +smooth. Add the cream very slowly, stirring constantly as it thickens, +adding the seasoning at the last. An egg may also be added, but the +croquettes are more creamy without it. To half a pound of chicken chopped +fine, add one teaspoonful of lemon juice and one of minced parsley, one +beaten egg and the pint of cream sauce. Spread on a platter to cool, and +when cool make into shapes, either corks or like pears; dip in egg and +crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Oyster, sweetbread, and veal croquettes +are made by the same form, using a pint of chopped oysters. To the +sweetbreads a small can of mushrooms may be added cut in bits. + + +SALMI OF DUCKS OR GAME. + +Cut the meat from cold roast ducks or game into small bits. Break the +bones and trimmings, and cover with stock or cold water, adding two +cloves, two pepper-corns, and a bay-leaf or pinch of sweet herbs. Boil +till reduced to a cupful for a pint of meat. Mince two small onions fine, +and fry brown in two tablespoonfuls of butter; then add two tablespoonfuls +of flour and stir till deep brown, adding to it the strained broth from +the bones. Put in the bits of meat with one tablespoonful of lemon juice +and one of Worcestershire sauce. Simmer for fifteen minutes, and at the +last add, if liked, six or eight mushrooms and a glass of claret. Serve on +slices of fried bread, and garnish with fried bread and parsley. + + +CASSEROLE OF RICE AND MEAT. + +This can be made of any kind of meat, but is nicest of veal or poultry. +Boil a large cup of rice till tender, and let it cool. Chop fine half a +pound of meat, and season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a small grated +onion, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley and a pinch of cayenne. Add a +teacupful of cracker crumbs and a beaten egg, and wet with stock or hot +water enough to make it pack easily. Butter a tin mould, quart size best, +and line the bottom and sides with rice about half an inch thick. Pack in +the meat; cover with rice, and steam one hour. Loosen at edges; turn out +on hot platter, and pour tomato sauce around it. + + +ITALIA'S PRIDE. + +This is a favorite dish in the writer's family, having been sent many +years ago from Italy by a friend who had learned its composition from her +Italian cook. Its name was bestowed by the children of the house. One +large cup of chopped meat; two onions minced and fried brown in butter; a +pint of cold boiled macaroni or spaghetti; a pint of fresh or cold stewed +tomatoes; one teaspoonful of salt; half a teaspoonful of white pepper. +Butter a pudding dish, and put first a layer of macaroni, then tomato, +then meat and some onion and seasoning, continuing this till the dish is +full. Cover with fine bread crumbs, dot with bits of butter, and bake for +half an hour. Serve very hot. + + +DEVILED HAM. + +For this purpose use either the knuckle or any odds and ends remaining. +Cut off all dark or hard bits, and see that at least a quarter of the +amount is fat. Chop as finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. +For a pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows:-- + +One even tablespoonful of sugar; one even teaspoonful of ground mustard; +one saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; one spoonful of butter; one teacupful +of boiling vinegar. Mix the sugar, mustard, and pepper thoroughly, and add +the vinegar little by little. Stir it into the chopped ham, and pack it in +small molds, if it is to be served as a lunch or supper relish, turning +out upon a small platter and garnishing with parsley. + +For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin; butter lightly, and spread with +about a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. The root of a boiled tongue can be +prepared in the same way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in little +jars, and pour melted butter over the top. + + +BONED TURKEY. + +This is a delicate dish, and is usually regarded as an impossibility for +any ordinary housekeeper; and unless one is getting up a supper or other +entertainment, it is hardly worth while to undertake it. If the legs and +wings are left on, the boning becomes much more difficult. The best plan +is to cut off both them and the neck, boiling all with the turkey, and +using the meat for croquettes or hash. + +Draw only the crop and windpipe, as the turkey is more easily handled +before dressing. Choose a fat hen turkey of some six or seven pounds +weight, and cut off legs up to second joint, with half the wings and the +neck. Now, with a very sharp knife, make a clean cut down the entire back, +and holding the knife close to the body, cut away the flesh, first on one +side and then another, making a clean cut around the pope's nose. Be very +careful, in cutting down the breastbone, not to break through the skin. +The entire meat will now be free from the bones, save the pieces remaining +in legs and wings. Cut out these, and remove all sinews. Spread the turkey +skin-side down on the board. Cut out the breasts, and cut them up in long, +narrow pieces, or as you like. Chop fine a pound and a half of veal or +fresh pork, and a slice of fat ham also. Season with one teaspoonful of +salt, a saltspoonful each of mace and pepper, half a saltspoonful of +cayenne, and the juice of lemon. Cut half a pound of cold boiled smoked +tongue into dice. Make layers of this force-meat, putting half of it on +the turkey and then the dice of tongue, with strips of the breast between, +using force meat for the last layer. Roll up the turkey in a tight roll, +and sew the skin together. Now roll it firmly in a napkin, tying at the +ends and across in two places to preserve the shape. Cover it with boiling +water, salted as for stock, putting in all the bones and giblets, and two +onions stuck with three cloves each. Boil four hours. Let it cool in the +liquor. Take up in a pan, lay a tin sheet on it, and press with a heavy +weight. Strain the water in which it was boiled, and put in a cold place. + +Next day take off the napkin, and set the turkey in the oven a moment to +melt off any fat. It can be sliced and eaten in this way, but makes a +handsomer dish served as follows: + +Remove the fat from the stock, and heat three pints of it to +boiling-point, adding two-thirds of a package of gelatine which has been +soaked in a little cold water. Strain a cupful of this into some pretty +mold,--an ear of corn is a good shape,--and the remainder in two pans or +deep plates, coloring each with caramel,--a teaspoonful in one, and two in +the other. Lay the turkey on a small platter turned face down in a larger +one, and when the jelly is cold and firm, put the molded form on top of +it. Now cut part of the jelly into rounds with a pepper-box top or a small +star-cutter, and arrange around the mold, chopping the rest and piling +about the edge, so that the inner platter or stand is completely +concealed. The outer row of jelly can have been colored red by cutting up, +and boiling in the stock for it, half of a red beet. Sprigs of parsley or +delicate celery-tops may be used as garnish, and it is a very +elegant-looking as well as savory dish. The legs and wings can be left on +and trussed outside, if liked, making it as much as possible in the +original shape; but it is no better, and much more trouble. + + +JELLIED CHICKEN. + +Tenderness is no object here, the most ancient dweller in the barnyard +answering equally well, and even better than "broilers." + +Draw carefully, and if the fowl is old, wash it in water in which a +spoonful of soda has been dissolved, rinsing in cold. Put on in cold +water, and season with a tablespoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of +pepper. Boil till the meat slips easily from the bones, reducing the broth +to about a quart. Strain, and when cold, take off the fat. Where any +floating particles remain, they can always be removed by laying a piece of +soft paper on the broth for a moment. Cut the breast in long strips, and +the rest of the meat in small pieces. Boil two or three eggs hard, and +when cold, cut in thin slices. Slice a lemon very thin. Dissolve half a +package of gelatine in a little cold water; heat the broth to +boiling-point, and add a saltspoonful of mace, and if liked, a glass of +sherry, though it is not necessary, pouring it on the gelatine. Choose a +pretty mold, and lay in strips of the breast; then a layer of egg-slices, +putting them close against the mold. Nearly fill with chicken, laid in +lightly; then strain on the broth till it is nearly full, and set in a +cold place. Dip for an instant in hot water before turning out. It is nice +as a supper or lunch dish, and very pretty in effect. + + * * * * * + +SAUCES AND SALADS. + + +The foundation for a large proportion of sauces is in what the French cook +knows as a _roux_, and we as "drawn butter." As our drawn butter is often +lumpy, or with the taste of the raw flour, I give the French method as a +security against such disaster. + + +TO MAKE A ROUX. + +Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an egg, and add two even +tablespoonfuls of sifted flour; one ounce of butter to two of flour being +a safe rule. Stir till smooth, and pour in slowly one pint of milk, or +milk and water, or water alone. With milk it is called _cream roux_, and +is used for boiled fish and poultry. Where the butter and flour are +allowed to brown, it is called a _brown roux_, and is thinned with the +soup or stew which it is designed to thicken. Capers added to a _white +roux_--which is the butter and flour, with water added--give _caper +sauce_, for use with boiled mutton. Pickled nasturtiums are a good +substitute for capers. Two hard-boiled eggs cut fine give egg sauce. +Chopped parsley or pickle, and the variety of catchups and sauces, make an +endless variety; the _white roux_ being the basis for all of them. + + +BREAD SAUCE. + +For this sauce boil one point of milk, with one onion cut in pieces. When +it has boiled five minutes, take out the onion, and thicken the milk with +half a pint of sifted bread-crumbs. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in a +frying-pan; put in half a pint of coarser crumbs, stirring them till a +light brown. Flavor the sauce with half a teaspoonful of salt, a +saltspoonful of pepper, and a grate of nutmeg; and serve with game, +helping a spoonful of the sauce, and one of the browned crumbs. The boiled +onion may be minced fine and added, and the browned crumbs omitted. + + +CELERY SAUCE. + +Wash and boil a small head of celery, which has been cut up fine, in one +pint of water, with half a teaspoonful of salt. Boil till tender, which +will require about half an hour. Make a _cream roux_, using half a pint of +milk, and adding quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper. Stir into the +celery; boil a moment, and serve. A teaspoonful of celery salt can be +used, if celery is out of season, adding it to the full rule for _cream +roux_. Cauliflower may be used in the same way as celery, cutting it very +fine, and adding a large cupful to the sauce. Use either with boiled +meats. + + +MINT SAUCE. + +Look over and strip off the leaves, and cut them as fine as possible with +a sharp knife. Use none of the stalk but the tender tips. To a cupful of +chopped mint allow an equal quantity of sugar, and half a cup of good +vinegar. It should stand an hour before using. + + +CRANBERRY SAUCE. + +Wash one quart of cranberries in warm water, and pick them over carefully. +Put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, with one pint of cold water and one +pint of sugar, and cook without stirring for half an hour, turning then +into molds. This is the simplest method. They can be strained through a +sieve, and put in bowls, forming a marmalade, which can be cut in slices +when cold; or the berries can be crushed with a spoon while boiling, but +left unstrained. + + +APPLE SAUCE. + +Pare, core, and quarter some apples (sour being best), and stew till +tender in just enough water to cover them. Rub them through a sieve, +allowing a teacupful of sugar to a quart of strained apple, or even less, +where intended to eat with roast pork or goose. Where intended for lunch +or tea, do not strain, but treat as follows: Make a sirup of one large +cupful of sugar and one of water for every dozen good-sized apples. Add +half a lemon, cut in very thin slices. Put in the apple; cover closely, +and stew till tender, keeping the quarters as whole as possible. The lemon +may be omitted. + + +PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE. + +Make a _white roux_, with a pint of either water or milk; but water will +be very good. Add to it a large cup of sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon or +any essence liked, and a wine-glass of wine. Vinegar can be substituted. +Grate in a little nutmeg, and serve hot. + + +MOLASSES SAUCE. + +This sauce is intended especially for apple dumplings and puddings. One +pint of molasses; one tablespoonful of butter; the juice of one lemon, or +a large spoonful of vinegar. Boil twenty minutes. It may be thickened with +a tablespoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, but is +good in either case. + + +FOAMING SAUCE. + +Cream half a cup of butter till very light, and add a heaping cup of +sugar, beating both till white. Set the bowl in which it was beaten into a +pan of boiling water, and allow it to melt slowly. Just before serving +but _not before_, pour into it slowly half a cup or four spoonfuls of +boiling water, stirring to a thick foam. Grate in nutmeg, or use a +teaspoonful of lemon essence, and if wine is liked, add a glass of sherry +or a tablespoonful of brandy. For a pudding having a decided flavor of its +own, a sauce without wine is preferable. + + +HARD SAUCE + +Beat together the same proportions of butter and sugar as in the preceding +receipt; add a tablespoonful of wine if desired; pile lightly on a pretty +dish; grate nutmeg over the top, and set in a cold place till used. + + +FRUIT SAUCES. + +The sirup of any nice canned fruit may be used cold as sauce for cold +puddings and blancmanges, or heated and thickened for hot, allowing to a +pint of juice a heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little +cold water, and boiling it five minutes. Strawberry or raspberry sirup is +especially nice. + + +PLAIN SALAD DRESSING. + +Three tablespoonfuls of best olive-oil; one tablespoonful of vinegar; one +saltspoonful each of salt and pepper mixed together; and then, with three +tablespoonfuls of best olive-oil, adding last the tablespoonful of +vinegar. This is the simplest form of dressing. The lettuce, or other +salad material, must be fresh and crisp, and should not be mixed till the +moment of eating. + + +SPANISH TOMATO SAUCE. + +One can of tomatoes or six large fresh ones; two minced onions fried brown +in a large tablespoonful of butter. Add to the tomatoes with three sprigs +of parsley and thyme, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper; +three cloves and two allspice, with a small blade of mace and a bit of +lemon peel, and two lumps of sugar. Stew very slowly for two hours, then +rub through a sieve, and return to the fire. Add two tablespoonfuls of +flour, browned with a tablespoonful of butter, and boil up once. It should +be smooth and thick. Keep on ice, and it will keep a week. Excellent. + + +MAYONNAISE SAUCE. + +For this sauce use the yolks of three raw eggs; one even tablespoonful of +mustard; one of sugar; one teaspoonful of salt; and a saltspoonful of +cayenne. + +Break the egg yolks into a bowl; beat a few strokes, and gradually add the +mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. Now take a pint bottle of best +olive-oil, and stir in a few drops at a time. The sauce will thicken like +a firm jelly. When the oil is half in, add the juice of one lemon by +degrees with the remainder of the oil; and last, add quarter of a cup of +good vinegar. This will keep for weeks, and can be used with either +chicken, salmon, or vegetable salad. + +A simpler form can be made with the yolk of one egg, half a pint of oil, +and half the ingredients given above. It can be colored red with the juice +of a boiled beet, or with the coral of a lobster, and is very nice as a +dressing for raw tomatoes, cutting them in thick slices, and putting a +little of it on each slice. + +Mayonnaise may be varied in many ways, _sauce tartare_ being a favorite +one. This is simply two even tablespoonfuls of capers, half a small onion, +and a tablespoonful of parsley, and two gherkins or a small cucumber, all +minced fine and added to half a pint of mayonnaise. This keeps a long +time, and is very nice for fried fish or plain boiled tongue. + + +DRESSING WITHOUT OIL. + +Cream a small cup of butter, and stir into it the yolks of three eggs. Mix +together one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of salt, and quarter +of a saltspoonful of cayenne, and add to the butter and egg. Stir in +slowly, instead of oil, one cup of cream, and add the juice of one lemon +and half a cup of vinegar. + + +BOILED DRESSING FOR COLD SLAW. + +This is good also for vegetable salads. One small cup of good vinegar; two +tablespoonfuls of sugar; half a teaspoonful each of salt and mustard; a +saltspoonful of pepper; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; and two +beaten eggs. Put these all in a small saucepan over the fire, and stir +till it becomes a smooth paste. Have a firm, white cabbage, very cold, and +chopped fine; and mix the dressing well through it. It will keep several +days in a cold place. + + +CHICKEN SALAD. + +Boil a tender chicken, and when cold, cut all the meat in dice. Cut up +white tender celery enough to make the same amount, and mix with the meat. +Stir into it a tablespoonful of oil with three of vinegar, and a +saltspoonful each of mustard and salt, and let it stand an hour or two. +When ready to serve, mix the whole with a mayonnaise sauce, leaving part +to mask the top; or use the mayonnaise alone, without the first dressing +of vinegar and oil. Lettuce can be substituted for celery; and where +neither is obtainable, a crisp white cabbage may be chopped fine, and the +meat of the chicken also, and either a teaspoonful of extract of celery or +celery-seed used to flavor it The fat of the chicken, taken from the water +in which it was boiled, carefully melted and strained, and cooled again, +is often used by Southern housekeepers. + + +SALMON MAYONNAISE. + +Carefully remove all the skin and bones from a pound of boiled salmon, or +use a small can of the sealed, draining away all the liquid. Cut in small +pieces, and season with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a small onion +minced fine, and half a teaspoonful each of salt and pepper. Cover the +bottom of the salad dish with crisp lettuce-leaves; lay the salmon on it, +and pour on the sauce. The meat of a lobster can be treated in the same +way. + + * * * * * + +EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. + + +BOILED EGGS. + +Let the water be boiling fast when the eggs are put in, that it may not be +checked. They should have lain in warm water a few minutes before boiling, +to prevent the shells cracking. Allow three minutes for a soft-boiled egg; +four, to have the white firmly set; and ten, for a hard-boiled egg. +Another method is to pour boiling water on the eggs, and let them stand +for ten minutes where they will be nearly at boiling-point, though not +boiling. The white and yolk are then perfectly cooked, and of jelly-like +consistency. + + +POACHED EGGS. + +Have a deep frying-pan full of boiling water,--simmering, not boiling +furiously. Put in two teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt. +Break each egg into a cup or saucer, allowing one for each person; slide +gently into the water, and let them stand five minutes, but without +boiling. Have ready small slices of buttered toast which have been +previously dipped quickly into hot water. Take up the eggs on a skimmer; +trim the edges evenly, and slip off upon the toast, serving at once. For +fried eggs, see _Ham and Eggs_, p. 158. + + +SCRAMBLED EGGS. + +Break half a dozen eggs into a bowl, and beat for a minute. Have the +frying-pan hot. Melt a tablespoonful of butter, with an even teaspoonful +of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and turn in the eggs. Stir them +constantly as they harden, until they are a firm yet delicate mixture of +white and yellow, and turn into a hot dish, serving at once. A cup of milk +may be added if liked. The whole operation should not exceed five minutes. + + +BAKED EGGS. + +Break the eggs into a buttered pudding-dish. Salt and pepper them very +lightly, and bake in a quick oven till set. Or turn over them a cupful of +good gravy, that of veal or poultry being especially nice, and bake in +the same way. Serve in the dish they were baked in. + + +STUFFED EGGS. + +Boil eggs for twenty minutes. Drop them in cold water, and when cold, take +off the shells, and cut the egg in two lengthwise. Take out the yolks +carefully; rub them fine on a plate, and add an equal amount of deviled +ham, or of cold tongue or chicken, minced very fine. If chicken is used, +add a saltspoonful of salt and a pinch of cayenne. Roll the mixture into +little balls the size of the yolk; fill each white with it; arrange on a +dish with sprigs of parsley, and use cold as a lunch dish. They can also +be served hot by laying them in a deep buttered pie-plate, covering with a +cream _roux_, dusting thickly with bread-crumbs, and browning in a quick +oven. + + +PLAIN OMELET. + +The pan for frying an omelet should be clean and very smooth. Break the +eggs one by one into a cup, to avoid the risk of a spoiled one. Allow from +three to five, but never _over_ five, for a single omelet. Turn them into +a bowl, and give them twelve beats with whisk or fork. Put butter the size +of an egg into the frying-pan, and let it run over the entire surface. As +it begins to boil, turn in the eggs. Hold the handle of the pan in one +hand, and with the other draw the egg constantly up from the edges as it +sets, passing a knife underneath to let the butter run under. Shake the +pan now and then to keep the omelet from scorching. It should be firm at +the edges, and creamy in the middle. When done, either fold over one-half +on the other, and turn on to a hot platter to serve at once, or set in the +oven a minute to brown the top, turning it out in a round. A little +chopped ham or parsley may be added. The myriad forms of omelet to be +found in large cook-books are simply this plain one, with a spoonful or so +of chopped mushrooms or tomatoes or green pease laid in the middle of it +just before folding and serving. A variation is also made by beating +whites and yolks separately, then adding half a cup of cream or milk; +doubling the seasoning given above, and then following the directions for +frying. Quarter of an onion and a sprig or two of parsley minced fine are +a very nice addition. A cupful of finely minced fish, either fresh or +salt, makes a fish omlet. Chopped oysters may also be used; and many +persons like a large spoonful of grated cheese, though this is a French +rather than American taste. + + +BAKED OMELET. + +One large cup of milk; five eggs; a saltspoonful of salt; and half a one +of white pepper mixed with the last. Beat the eggs well, a Dover +egg-beater being the best possible one where yolks and whites are not +separated; add the salt and pepper, and then the milk. Melt a piece of +butter the size of an egg in a frying-pan, and when it boils, pour in the +egg. Let it stand two minutes, or long enough to harden a little, but do +not stir at all. When a little firm, put into a quick oven, and bake till +brown. It will rise very high, but falls almost immediately. Serve at once +on a very hot platter. This omelet can also be varied with chopped ham or +parsley. The old-fashioned iron spider with short handle is best for +baking it, as a long-handled pan cannot be shut up in the oven. This +omelet can also be fried in large spoonfuls, like pancakes, rolling each +one as done. + + +CHEESE FONDU. + +This preparation of grated cheese and eggs can be made in a large dish for +several people, or in "portions" for one, each in a small earthen dish. +For one portion allow two eggs; half a saltspoonful of salt; a heaping +tablespoonful of grated cheese; two of milk; and a few grains of cayenne. +Melt a teaspoonful of butter in the dish, and when it boils, pour in the +cheese and egg, and cook slowly till it is well set. It is served in the +dish in which it is cooked, and should be eaten at once. + +An adaptation of this has been made by Mattieu Williams, the author of the +"Chemistry of Cookery." It is as follows:-- + +Soak enough slices of bread to fill a quart pudding-dish, in a pint of +milk, to which half a teaspoonful of salt and two beaten eggs have been +added. Butter the pudding-dish and lay in the bread, putting a thick +coating of grated cheese on each slice. Pour what milk may remain over the +top, and bake slowly about half an hour. + + +CHEESE SOUFFLÉ. + +Melt in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and add to it half a +teaspoonful of dry mustard; a grain of cayenne; a saltspoonful of white +pepper; a grate of nutmeg; two tablespoonfuls of flour; and stir all +smooth, adding a gill of milk and a large cupful of grated cheese. Stir +into this as much powdered bi-carbonate of potash as will stand on a +three-cent piece, and then beat in three eggs, yolks and whites beaten +separately. Pour this into a buttered earthen dish; bake in a quick oven, +and serve at once. In all cases where cheese disagrees it will be found +that the bi-carbonate of potash renders it harmless. + + +TO BOIL OATMEAL OR CRUSHED WHEAT. + +Have ready a quart of boiling water in a farina-boiler, or use a small +pail set in a saucepan of boiling water. If oatmeal or any grain is boiled +in a single saucepan, it forms, no matter how often it is stirred, a thick +crust on the bottom; and, as _never to stir_ is a cardinal rule for all +these preparations, let the next one be, a double boiler. + +Add a teaspoonful of salt to the quart of water in the inside boiler. Be +sure it is boiling, and then throw in one even cup of oatmeal or crushed +wheat. Now _let it alone_ for two hours, only being sure that the water in +the outside saucepan does not dry away, but boils steadily. When done, +each grain should be distinct, yet jelly-like. Stirring makes a mere mush, +neither very attractive nor palatable. If there is not time for this long +boiling in the morning, let it be done the afternoon before. Do not turn +out the oatmeal, but fill the outer boiler next morning, and let it boil +half an hour, or till heated through. + + +COARSE HOMINY. + +Treat like oatmeal, using same amount to a quart of water, save that it +must be thoroughly washed beforehand. Three hours' boiling is better than +two. + + +FINE HOMINY. + +Allow a cupful to a quart of boiling, salted water. Wash it in two or +three waters, put over, and boil steadily for half an hour, or till it +will pour out easily. If too thin, boil uncovered for a short time. Stir +in a tablespoonful of butter before sending to table. Any of these +preparations may be cut in slices when cold, floured on each side, and +fried brown like mush. + + +FINE HOMINY CAKES. + +One pint of cold boiled hominy; two eggs; a saltspoonful of salt; and a +tablespoonful of butter melted. Break up the hominy fine with a fork, and +add salt and butter. Beat the eggs,--whites and yolks separately; add the +yolks first, and last the whites; and either fry brown in a little butter +or drop by spoonfuls on buttered plates, and bake brown in a quick oven. +This is a nice side-dish at dinner. Oatmeal and wheat can be used in the +same way at breakfast. + + +HASTY PUDDING, OR MUSH. + +One cup of sifted Indian meal, stirred smooth in a bowl with a little cold +water. Have ready a quart of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt, +and pour in the meal. Boil half an hour, or till it will just pour, +stirring often. To be eaten hot with butter and sirup. Rye or graham flour +can be used in the same way. If intended to fry, pour the hot mush into a +shallow pan which has been wet with cold water to prevent its sticking. A +spoonful of butter may be added while hot, but is not necessary. Cut in +thin slices when cold; flour each side; and fry brown in a little butter +or nice drippings, serving hot. + + +WHAT TO DO WITH COLD POTATOES. + +Chop, as for hash; melt a tablespoonful of either butter or nice drippings +in a frying-pan; add, for six or eight good-sized potatoes, one even +teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. When the fat boils, put +in the potatoes, and fry for about ten minutes, or until well browned. As +soon as they are done, if not ready to use, move to the back of the stove, +that they may not burn. + +Or cut each potato in lengthwise slices; dredge on a little flour; and fry +brown on each side, watching carefully that they do not burn. The fat from +two or three slices of fried salt pork may be used for these. + + +LYONNAISE POTATOES. + +Slice six cold boiled potatoes. Mince very fine an onion and two or three +sprigs of parsley,--enough to fill a teaspoon. Melt in a frying-pan a +tablespoonful of butter; put in the onion, and fry light brown; then add +the potatoes, and fry to a light brown also, turning them often. Put into +a hot dish, stirring in the minced parsley, and pouring over them any +butter that may be left in the pan. + + +STEWED POTATOES. + +One pint of cold boiled potatoes cut in bits; one cup of milk; butter the +size of an egg; a heaping teaspoonful of flour. Melt the butter in a +saucepan; add the flour, and cook a moment; and pour in the milk, an even +teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. When it boils, +add the potatoes. Boil a minute, and serve. + + +SARATOGA POTATOES. + +Pare potatoes, and slice thin as wafers, either with a potato-slicer or a +thin-bladed, very sharp knife. Lay in very cold water at least an hour +before using. If for breakfast, over-night is better. Have boiling lard at +least three inches deep in a frying kettle or pan. Dry the potatoes +thoroughly in a towel, and drop in a few slices at a time, frying to a +golden brown. Take out with a skimmer, and lay on a double brown paper in +the oven to dry, salting them lightly. They may be eaten either hot or +cold. Three medium-sized potatoes will make a large dishful; or, as they +keep perfectly well, enough may be done at once for several meals, heating +them a few minutes in the oven before using. + + +FISH BALLS. + +One pint of cold salt fish, prepared as on page 136, and chopped very +fine. Eight good-sized, freshly-boiled potatoes, or enough to make a quart +when mashed. Mash with half a teaspoonful of salt, and a heaping +tablespoonful of butter, and, if liked, a teaspoonful of made mustard. Mix +in the chopped fish, blending both thoroughly. Make into small, round +cakes; flour on each side; and fry brown in a little drippings or fat of +fried pork. A nicer way is to make into round balls, allowing a large +tablespoonful to each. Roll in flour; or they can be egged and crumbed +like croquettes. Drop into boiling lard; drain on brown paper, and serve +hot. Fresh fish can be used in the same way, and is very nice. +Breadcrumbs, softened in milk, can be used instead of potato, but are not +so good. + + +FISH HASH. + +Use either fresh fish or salt. If the former, double the measure of salt +will be needed. Prepare and mix as in fish balls, allowing always double +the amount of fresh mashed potato that you have of fish. Melt a large +spoonful of butter or drippings in a frying-pan. When hot, put in the +fish. Let it stand till brown on the bottom, and then stir. Do this two or +three times, letting it brown at the last, pressing it into omelet form, +and turning out on a hot platter, or piling it lightly. + + +FISH WITH CREAM. + +One pint of cold minced fish, either salt cod or fresh fish; always +doubling the amount of seasoning given if fresh is used. Melt in a +frying-pan a tablespoonful of butter; stir in a heaping one of flour, and +cook a minute; then add a pint of milk and a saltspoonful each of salt and +pepper. When it boils, stir in the fish, and add two well-beaten eggs. +Cook for a minute, and serve very hot. + +Cold salmon, or that put up unspiced, is nice done in this way. The eggs +can be omitted, but it is not as good. If cream is plenty, use part cream. +Any cold boiled fresh fish can be used in this way. + + +SALT MACKEREL OR ROE HERRING. + +Soak over-night, the skin-side up. In the morning wipe dry, and either +broil, as in general directions for broiling fish, page 133, or fry brown +in pork fat or drippings. + +Salted shad are treated in the same way. All are better broiled. + + +FRIED SAUSAGES. + +If in skins, prick them all over with a large darning-needle or fork; +throw them into a saucepan of boiling water and boil for one minute. Take +out, wipe dry, and lay in a hot frying-pan, in which has been melted a +tablespoonful of hot lard or drippings. Turn often. As soon as brown they +are done. If gravy is wanted, stir a tablespoonful of flour into the fat +in the pan; add a cup of boiling water, and salt to taste,--about a +saltspoonful,--and pour, not _over_, but around the sausages. Serve hot. + + +FRIZZLED BEEF. + +Half a pound of smoked beef cut very thin. This can be just heated in a +tablespoonful of hot butter, and then served, or prepared as follows:-- + +Pour boiling water on the beef, and let it stand five minutes. In the +meantime melt in a frying-pan one tablespoonful of butter; stir in a +tablespoonful of flour, and add slowly half a pint of milk or water. Put +in the beef which has been taken from the water; cook a few minutes, and +add two or three well-beaten eggs, cooking only a minute longer. It can be +prepared without eggs, or they may be added to the beef just heated in +butter; but the last method is best. + + +VEAL LOAF. + +Three pounds of lean veal and quarter of a pound of salt pork chopped very +fine. Mince an onion as fine as possible. Grate a nutmeg, or use half a +teaspoonful of powdered mace, mixing it with an even tablespoonful of +salt, and an even saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. Add three well-beaten +eggs, a teacupful of milk, and a large spoonful of melted butter. Mix the +ingredients very thoroughly; form into a loaf; cover thickly with sifted +bread or cracker crumbs, and bake three hours, basting now and then with a +little butter and water. When cold, cut in thin slices, and use for +breakfast or tea. It is good for breakfast with baked potatoes, and slices +of it are sometimes served around a salad. A glass of wine is sometimes +added before baking. + + +MEAT HASH. + +The English hash is meat cut either in slices or mouthfuls, and warmed in +the gravy; and the Southern hash is the same. A genuine hash, however, +requires potato, and may be made of any sort of meat; cold roast beef +being excellent, and cold corned beef best of all. Mutton is good; but +veal should always be used as a mince, and served on toast as in the rule +to be given. + +Chop the meat fine, and allow one-third meat to two-thirds potato. For +corned-beef hash the potatoes should be freshly boiled and mashed. For +other cold meats finely-chopped cold potatoes will answer. To a quart of +the mixture allow a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper +mixed together, and sprinkled on the meat before chopping. Heat a +tablespoonful of butter or nice drippings in a frying-pan; moisten the +hash with a little cold gravy or water; and heat slowly, stirring often. +It may be served on buttered toast when hot, without browning, but is +better browned. To accomplish this, first heat through, then set on the +back of the stove, and let it stand twenty minutes. Fold like an omelet, +or turn out in a round, and serve hot. + + +MINCED VEAL. + +Chop cold veal fine, picking out all bits of gristle. To a pint-bowlful +allow a large cup of boiling water; a tablespoonful of butter and one of +flour; a teaspoonful of salt; and a saltspoonful each of pepper and mace. +Make a _roux_ with the butter and flour, and add the seasoning; put in the +veal, and cook five minutes, serving it on buttered toast, made as in +directions given for water toast. + + +TOAST, DRY OR BUTTERED. + +Not one person in a hundred makes good toast; yet nothing can be simpler. +Cut the slices of bread evenly, and rather thin. If a wire toaster is +used, several can be done at once. Hold just far enough from the fire to +brown nicely; and turn often, that there may be no scorching. Toast to an +even, golden brown. No rule will secure this, and only experience and care +will teach one just what degree of heat will do it. If to be buttered dry, +butter each slice evenly as taken from the fire, and pile on a hot plate. +If served without butter, either send to table in a toast-rack, or, if on +a plate, do not pile together, but let the slices touch as little as +possible, that they may not steam and lose crispness. + + +WATER TOAST. + +Have a pan of boiling hot, well-salted water; a teaspoonful to a quart +being the invariable rule. Dip each slice of toast quickly into this. It +must not be _wet_, but only moistened. Butter, and pile on a hot plate. +Poached eggs and minces are served on this form of toast, which is also +nice with fricasseed chicken. + + +MILK TOAST. + +Scald a quart of milk in a double boiler, and thicken it with two even +tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, or the +same amount of flour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and a heaping +tablespoonful of butter. Have ready a dozen slices of water toast, which, +unless wanted quite rich, needs no butter. Pour the thickened milk into a +pan, that each slice may be easily dipped into it, and pile them when +dipped in a deep dish, pouring the rest of the milk over them. Serve very +hot. Cream is sometimes used instead of milk, in which case no thickening +is put in, and only a pint heated with a saltspoonful of salt. + + * * * * * + +TEA, COFFEE, ETC. + +For these a cardinal rule has already been given in Part I., but can not +be enforced too often; viz., the necessity of fresh water boiled, and used +as soon as it boils, that the gases which give it character and sparkle +may not have had time to escape. Tea and coffee both should be kept from +the air, but the former even more carefully than the latter, as the +delicate flavor evaporates more quickly. + + +TEA. + +To begin with, never use a tin teapot if an earthen one is obtainable. An +even teaspoonful of dry tea is the usual allowance for a person. Scald the +teapot with a little _boiling water_, and pour it off. Put in the tea, and +pour on not over a cup of boiling water, letting it stand a minute or two +for the leaves to swell. Then fill with the needed amount of _water still +boiling_, this being about a small cupful to a person. Cover closely, and +let it stand five minutes. Ten will be required for English breakfast tea, +but _never boil_ either, above all in a tin pot. Boiling liberates the +tannic acid of the tea, which acts upon the tin, making a compound bitter +and metallic in taste, and unfit for human stomachs. + + +COFFEE. + +The best coffee is made from a mixture of two-thirds Java and one-third +Mocha; the Java giving strength, and the Mocha flavor and aroma. The +roasting must be very perfectly done. If done at home, constant stirring +is necessary to prevent burning; but all good grocers use now rotary +roasters, which brown each grain perfectly. Buy in small quantities +_unground_; keep closely covered; and if the highest flavor is wanted, +heat hot before grinding. + +A noted German chemist claims to have discovered an effectual antidote to +the harmful effects of coffee,--an antidote for which he had searched for +years. In his experiments he discovered that the fibre of cotton, in its +natural state before bleaching, neutralizes the harmful principle of the +caffein. To make absolutely harmless coffee which yet has no loss of +flavor, it is to be boiled in a bag of unbleached cheese-cloth or +something equally porous. In the coffee-pot of his invention, the rounds +of cotton are slipped between two cylinders of tin, and the boiling water +is poured through once or twice, on the same principle as French filtered +coffee. The cloths must be rinsed in hot and then cold water daily and +carefully dried; and none are to be used longer than one week, as at the +end of that time, even with careful washing, the fibre is saturated with +the harmful principle. The same proportions of coffee as those given below +are used, and the pot must stand in a hot place while the water filters +through. + +For a quart of coffee allow four heaping tablespoonfuls of coffee when +ground. Scald the coffee-pot; mix the ground coffee with a little cold +water and two or three egg-shells, which can be dried and kept for this +purpose. Part of a fresh egg with the shell is still better. Put into the +hot coffee-pot, and pour on one quart of _boiling water_. Cover tightly, +and boil five minutes; then pour out a cupful to free the spout from +grounds, and return this to the pot. Let it stand a few minutes to settle, +and serve with boiled milk, and cream if it is to be had. Never for +appearance's sake decant coffee. Much of the flavor is lost by turning +from one pot into another, and the shapes are now sufficiently pretty to +make the block tin ones not at all unpresentable at table. + +Where coffee is required for a large company, allow a pound and a half to +a gallon of water. + +Coffee made in a French filter or biggin is considered better by many; but +I have preferred to give a rule that may be used with certainty where +French cooking utensils are unknown. + + +COCOA, BROMA, AND SHELLS. + +The directions found on packages of these articles are always reliable. +The _cocoa_ or _broma_ should be mixed smoothly with a little boiling +water, and added to that in the saucepan; one quart of either requiring a +pint each of milk and water, about three tablespoonfuls of cocoa, and a +small cup of sugar. A pinch of salt is always a great improvement. Boil +for half an hour. + +SHELLS are merely the husk of the cocoa-nut; and a cupful to a quart of +boiling water is the amount needed. Boil steadily an hour, and use with +milk and sugar. + + +CHOCOLATE. + +This rule, though unlike that given in cook-books generally, makes a drink +in consistency and flavor like that offered at Maillard's or Mendee's, the +largest chocolate manufacturers in the country. + +Scrape or grate fine two squares (two ounces) of Baker's or any +unsweetened chocolate. Add to this one small cup of sugar and a pinch of +salt, and put into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of water. Stir for a +few minutes till smooth and glossy, and then pour in gradually one pint of +milk and one of boiling water. Let all boil a minute. Dissolve one heaping +teaspoonful of corn-starch or arrow-root in a little cold water, and add +to the chocolate. Boil one minute, and serve. If cream can be had, whip to +a stiff froth, allowing two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a few drops of +vanilla essence to a cup of cream. Serve a spoonful laid on the top of the +chocolate in each cup. The corn-starch may be omitted, but is necessary +to the perfection of this rule, the following of which renders the +chocolate not only smooth, but entirely free from any oily particles. +Flavor is lost by any longer boiling, though usually half an hour has been +considered necessary. + + * * * * * + +VEGETABLES. + + +POTATOES. + +To be able to boil a potato perfectly is one of the tests of a good cook, +there being nothing in the whole range of vegetables which is apparently +so difficult to accomplish. Like the making of good bread, nothing is +simpler when once learned. A good boiled potato should be white, mealy, +and served very hot. If the potatoes are old, peel thinly with a sharp +knife; cut out all spots, and let them lie in cold water some hours before +using. It is more economical to boil before peeling, as the best part of +the potato lies next the skin; but most prefer them peeled. Put on in +boiling water, allowing a teaspoonful of salt to every quart of water. +Medium-sized potatoes will boil in half an hour. Let them be as nearly of +a size as possible, and if small and large are cooked at the same time, +put on the large ones ten or fifteen minutes before the small. When done, +pour off every drop of water; cover with a clean towel, and set on the +back of the range to dry for a few minutes before serving. The poorest +potato can be made tolerable by this treatment. Never let them wait for +other things, but time the preparation of dinner so that they will be +ready at the moment needed. New potatoes require no peeling, but should +merely be well washed and rubbed. + + +MASHED POTATOES. + +Boil as directed, and when dry and mealy, mash fine with a potato-masher +or large spoon, allowing for a dozen medium-sized potatoes a piece of +butter the size of an egg, half a cup of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and +half a teaspoonful of white pepper. The milk may be omitted if the potato +is preferred dry. Pile lightly in a dish, or smooth over, and serve at +once. Never brown in the oven, as it destroys the good flavor. + + +POTATO SNOW. + +Mash as above, and rub through a colander into a very hot dish, being +careful not to press it down in any way, and serve hot as possible. + + +BAKED POTATOES. + +Wash and scrub carefully, as some persons eat the skin. A large potato +requires an hour to bake. Their excellence depends upon being eaten the +moment they are done. + + +POTATOES WITH BEEF. + +Pare, and lay in cold water at least an hour. An hour before a roast of +beef is done, lay in the pan, and baste them when the beef is basted. They +are very nice. + +POTATO CROQUETTES. + +Cold mashed potatoes may be used, but fresh is better. To half a dozen +potatoes, mashed as in directions given, allow quarter of a saltspoonful +each of mace or nutmeg and cayenne pepper, and one beaten egg. Make in +little balls or rolls; egg and crumb, and fry in boiling lard. Drain on +brown paper, and serve like chicken croquettes. + + +SWEET POTATOES. + +Wash carefully, and boil without peeling from three-quarters of an hour to +an hour. Peel, and dry in the oven ten minutes. They are better baked, +requiring about an hour for medium-sized ones. + + +BEETS. + +Winter beets should be soaked over-night. Wash them carefully; but never +peel or even prick them, as color and sweetness would be lost. Put in +boiling, salted water. Young beets will cook in two hours; old ones +require five or six. Peel, and if large, cut in slices, putting a little +butter on each one. They can be served cold in a little vinegar. + + +PARSNIPS. + +Wash, and scrape clean; cut lengthwise in halves, and boil an hour, or two +if very old. Serve whole with a little drawn butter, or mash fine, season +well, allowing to half a dozen large parsnips a teaspoonful of salt, a +saltspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. + + +PARSNIP FRITTERS. + +Three large parsnips boiled and mashed fine, adding two well-beaten eggs, +half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls +of milk, and one heaping one of flour. Drop in spoonfuls, and fry brown in +a little hot butter. _Oyster-plant_ fritters are made in the same way. + + +OYSTER-PLANT STEWED. + +Scrape, and throw at once into cold water with a little vinegar in it, to +keep them from turning black. Cut in small pieces, or boil whole for an +hour. Mash fine, and make like parsnip fritters; or drain the pieces dry, +and serve with drawn butter. + + +CARROTS. + +Carrots are most savory boiled with corned beef for two hours. They may +also be boiled plain, cut in slices, and served with drawn butter. For old +carrots not less than two hours will be necessary. Plenty of water must be +used, and when cold the carrots are to be cut in dice. Melt in a saucepan +a spoonful of butter; add half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of +pepper, and a teaspoonful of sugar, and when the butter boils put in the +carrots, and stir till heated through. Pile them in the centre of a +platter, and put around them a can of French peas, which have been cooked +in only a spoonful of water, with a teaspoonful of sugar, a spoonful of +butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. This is a pretty +and excellent dish, and substantial as meat. A cup of stock can be added +to the carrots if desired, but they are better without it. + + +TURNIPS. + +Pare and cut in quarters. Boil in well-salted water for an hour, or until +tender. Drain off the water, and let them stand a few minutes to dry; then +mash fine, allowing for about a quart a teaspoonful of salt, half a one of +pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. + +Or they may be left in pieces, and served with drawn butter. + + +CABBAGE. + +Wash, and look over very carefully, and lay in cold water an hour. Cut in +quarters, and boil with corned beef an hour, or till tender, or with a +small piece of salt pork. Drain, and serve whole as possible. A much nicer +way is to boil in well-salted water, changing it once after the first +half-hour. Boil an hour; take up and drain; chop fine, and add a teacupful +of milk, a piece of butter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, and +half a one of pepper. Serve very hot. For cabbage Virginia fashion, and +the best of fashions, too, bake this last form in a buttered pudding-dish, +having first stirred in two or three well-beaten eggs, and covered the top +with bread-crumbs. Bake till brown. + + +CAULIFLOWER. + +Wash and trim, and boil in a bag made of mosquito-netting to keep it +whole. Boil steadily in well-salted water for one hour. Dish carefully, +and pour over it a nice drawn butter. Any cold remains may be used as +salad, or chopped and baked, as in rule for baked cabbage. + + +ONIONS. + +If milk is plenty, use equal quantities of skim-milk and water, allowing a +quart of each for a dozen or so large onions. If water alone is used, +change it after the first half-hour, as this prevents their turning dark; +salting as for all vegetables, and boiling young onions one hour; old +ones, two. Either chop fine, and add a spoonful of butter, half a +teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper, or serve them whole in a +dressing made by heating one cup of milk with the same butter and other +seasoning as when chopped. Put the onions in a hot dish, pour this over +them, and serve. They may also be half boiled; then put in a buttered +dish, covered with this sauce and a layer of bread-crumbs, and baked for +an hour. + + +WINTER SQUASH. + +Cut in two, and take out the seeds and fiber. Half will probably be enough +to cook at once. Cut this in pieces; pare off the rind, and lay each piece +in a steamer. Never boil in water if it can be avoided, as it must be as +dry as possible. Steam for two hours. Mash fine, or run through a +vegetable sifter, and, for a quart or so of squash, allow a piece of +butter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of +pepper. Serve very hot. + + +SUMMER SQUASH, OR CIMLINS. + +Steam as directed above, taking out the seeds, but not peeling them. Mash +through a colander; season, and serve hot. If very young, the seeds are +often cooked in them. Half an hour will be sufficient. + + +PEASE. + +Shell, and put over in boiling, salted water, to which a teaspoonful of +sugar has been added. Boil till tender, half an hour or a little more. +Drain off the water; add a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a +saltspoonful of salt. If the pease are old, put a bit of soda the size of +a pea in the water. + + +FIELD PEASE. + +These are generally used after drying. Soak over-night, and boil two +hours, or till tender, with or without a small piece of bacon. If +without, butter as for green pease. Or they can be mashed fine, rubbed +through a sieve, and then seasoned, adding a pinch of cayenne pepper. + +In Virginia they are often boiled, mashed a little, and fried in a large +cake. + + +SUCCOTASH. + +Boil green corn and beans separately. Cut the corn from the cob, and +season both as in either alone. A nicer way, however, is to score the rows +in half a dozen ears of corn; scrape off the corn; add a pint of lima or +any nice green bean, and boil one hour in a quart of boiling water, with +one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Let +the water boil away to about a cupful; add a spoonful of butter, and serve +in a hot dish. Many, instead of butter, use with it a small piece of +pork,--about quarter of a pound; but it is better without. A spoonful of +cream may be added. Canned corn and beans may be used; and even dried +beans and coarse hominy--the former well soaked, and both boiled together +three hours--are very good. + + +STRING BEANS. + +String, cut in bits, and boil an hour if very young. If old, an hour and +an half, or even two, may be needed. Drain off the water, and season like +green pease. + + +SHELLED BEANS. + +Any green bean may be used in this way, lima and butter beans being the +nicest. Put on in boiling, salted water, and boil not less than one hour. +Season like string beans. + + +GREEN CORN. + +Husk, and pick off all the silk. Boil in well-salted water, and serve on +the cob, wrapped in a napkin, or cut off and seasoned like beans. Cutting +down through each row gives, when scraped off, the kernel without the +hull. + + +GREEN-CORN FRITTERS. + +One pint of green corn grated. This will require about six ears. Mix with +this, half a cup of milk, two well-beaten eggs, half a cup of flour, one +teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of +melted butter. Fry in very small cakes in a little hot butter, browning +well on both sides. Serve very hot. + + +CORN PUDDING. + +One pint of cut or grated corn, one pint of milk, two well-beaten eggs, +one teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Butter a +pudding-dish, and bake the mixture half an hour. Canned corn can be used +in the same way. + + +EGG-PLANT. + +Peel, cut in slices half an inch thick, and lay them in well-salted water +for an hour. Wipe dry; dip in flour or meal, and fry brown on each side. +Fifteen minutes will be needed to cook sufficiently. The slices can be +egged and crumbed before frying, and are nicer than when merely floured. + + +EGG-PLANT FRITTERS. + +Peel the egg-plant, and take out the seeds. Boil for an hour in +well-salted water. Drain as dry as possible; mash fine, and prepare +precisely like corn fritters. + + +BAKED EGG-PLANT. + +Peel, and cut out a piece from the top; remove the seeds, and fill the +space with a dressing like that for ducks, fitting in the piece cut out. +Bake an hour, basting with a spoonful of butter melted in a cup of water, +and dredging with flour between each basting. It is very nice. + + +ASPARAGUS. + +Wash, and cut off almost all of the white end. Tie up in small bundles; +put into boiling, salted water, and cook till tender,--about half an hour, +or more if old. + +Make some slices of water toast, as in rule given, using the water in +which the asparagus was boiled; lay the slices on a hot platter, and the +asparagus upon them, pouring a spoonful of melted butter over it. The +asparagus may be cut in little bits, and, when boiled, a drawn butter +poured over it, or served on toast, as when left whole. Cold asparagus may +be cut fine, and used in an omelet, or simply warmed over. + + +SPINACH. + +Not less than a peck is needed for a dinner for three or four. Pick over +carefully, wash, and let it lie in cold water an hour or two. Put on in +boiling, salted water, and boil an hour, or until tender. Take up in a +colander, that it may drain perfectly. Have in a hot dish a piece of +butter the size of an egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of +pepper, and, if liked, a tablespoonful of vinegar. Chop the spinach fine, +and put in the dish, stirring in this dressing thoroughly. A teacupful of +cream is often added. Any tender greens, beet or turnip tops, kale, &c., +are treated in this way; kale, however, requiring two hours' boiling. + + +ARTICHOKES. + +Cut off the outside leaves; trim the bottom; throw into boiling, salted +water, with a teaspoonful of vinegar in it, and boil an hour. Season, and +serve like turnips, or with drawn butter poured over them. + + +TOMATOES STEWED. + +Pour on boiling water to take off the skins; cut in pieces, and stew +slowly for half an hour; adding for a dozen tomatoes a tablespoonful of +butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful +of sugar. Where they are preferred sweet, two tablespoonfuls of sugar will +be necessary. They may be thickened with a tablespoonful of flour or +corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, or with half a cup of rolled +cracker or bread crumbs. Canned tomatoes are stewed in the same way. + + +BAKED TOMATOES. + +Take off the skins; lay the tomatoes in a buttered pudding-dish; put a bit +of butter on each one. Mix a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of +pepper, with a cup of bread or cracker crumbs, and cover the top. Bake an +hour. + +Or cut the tomatoes in bits, and put a layer of them and one of seasoned +crumbs, ending with crumbs. Dot the top with bits of butter, that it may +brown well, and bake in the same way. Canned tomatoes are almost equally +good. Thin slices of well-buttered bread may be used instead of crumbs. + + +FRIED TOMATOES. + +Cut in thick slices. Mix in a plate half a teacupful of flour, a +saltspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper; and dip each slice in +this, frying brown in hot butter. + + +BROILED TOMATOES. + +Prepare as for frying, and broil in a wire broiler, putting a bit of +butter on each slice when brown, and serving on a hot dish or on buttered +toast. + + +RICE. + +Wash in cold water, changing it at least twice. It is better if allowed to +soak an hour. Drain, and throw into a good deal of boiling, salted water, +allowing not less than two quarts to a cupful of rice. Boil twenty +minutes, stirring now and then. Pour into a colander, that every drop of +water may drain off, and then set it at the back of the stove to dry for +ten minutes. In this way every grain is distinct, yet perfectly tender. If +old, half an hour's boiling may be required. Test by biting a grain at the +end of twenty minutes. If tender, it is done. + + +RICE CROQUETTES. + +Where used as a vegetable with dinner, to a pint of cold boiled rice allow +a tablespoonful of melted butter and one or two well-beaten eggs. Mix +thoroughly. A pinch of cayenne or a little chopped parsley may be added. +Make in the shape of corks; egg and crumb, and fry a golden brown. + + +MACARONI. + +Never wash macaroni if it can be avoided. Break in lengths of three or +four inches and throw into boiling, salted water, allowing quarter of a +pound for a dinner for three or four. Boil for half an hour, and drain off +the water. It may be served plain with tomato sauce, or simply buttered, +or with drawn butter poured over it. + + +MACARONI WITH CHEESE. + +Boil as directed. Make a pint of white sauce or _roux_, as on p. 169, +using milk if it can be had, though water answers. Have a cupful of good +grated cheese. Butter a pudding-dish. Put in a layer of macaroni, one of +sauce, and one of cheese, ending with cheese. Dust the top with sifted +bread or cracker crumbs, dot with bits of butter, and bake fifteen minutes +in a quick oven. It can be baked in the same way without cheese, or with +simply a cup of milk and two eggs added, making a sort of pudding. + + * * * * * + +BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. + +BREAD-MAKING AND FLOUR. + + +Much of the health, and consequently much of the happiness, of the family +depends upon good bread: therefore no pains should be spared in learning +the best method of making, which will prove easiest in the end. + +Yeast, flour, kneading, and baking must each be perfect, and nothing in +the whole range of cooking is of such prime importance. + +Once master the problem of yeast, and the first form of wheat bread, and +endless varieties of both bread and breakfast cakes can be made. + +The old and the new process flour--the former being known as the St. +Louis, and the latter as Haxall flour--are now to be had at all good +grocers; and from either good bread may be made, though that from the +latter keeps moist longer. Potapsco flour is of the same quality as the +St. Louis. It contains more starch than the St. Louis, and for this reason +requires, even more than that, the use in the family of coarser or graham +flour at the same time; white bread alone not being as nutritious or +strengthening, for reasons given in Part I. Graham flour is fast being +superseded by a much better form, prepared principally by the Health Food +Company in New York, in which the entire grain, save the husk, is ground +as fine as the ordinary flour, thus doing away with the coarseness that +many have objected to in graham bread. + +Flour made by the new process swells more than that by the old, and a +little less quantity--about an eighth less--is therefore required in +mixing and kneading. As definite rules as possible are given for the whole +operation; but experience alone can insure perfect bread, changes of +temperature affecting it at once, and baking being also a critical point. + +Pans made of thick tin, or, better still, of Russia iron, ten inches long, +four or five wide, and four deep, make the best-shaped loaf, and one +requiring a reasonably short time to bake. + + +YEAST. + +Ingredients: One teacupful of lightly broken hops; one pint of sifted +flour; one cupful of sugar; one tablespoonful of salt; four large or six +medium-sized potatoes; and two quarts of boiling water. + +Boil the potatoes, and mash them fine. At the same time, having tied the +hops in a little bag, boil them for half an hour in the two quarts of +water, but in another saucepan. Mix the flour, sugar, and salt well +together in a large mixing-bowl, and pour on the boiling hop-water, +stirring constantly. Now add enough of this to the mashed potato to thin +it till it can be poured, and mix all together, straining it through a +sieve to avoid any possible lumps. Add to this, when cool, either a cupful +of yeast left from the last, or of baker's yeast, or a Twin Brothers' +yeast cake dissolved in a little warm water. Let it stand till partly +light, and then stir down two or three times in the course of five or six +hours, as this makes it stronger. At the end of that time it will be +light. Keep in a covered stone jar, or in glass cans. By stirring in +corn-meal till a dough is made, and then forming it in small cakes and +drying in the sun, _dry yeast_ is made, which keeps better than the liquid +in hot weather. Crumb, and soak in warm water half an hour before using. + +_Potato yeast_ is made by omitting hops and flour, but mashing the +potatoes fine with the same proportion of other ingredients, and adding +the old yeast, when cool, as before. It is very nice, but must be made +fresh every week; while the other, kept in a cool place, will be good a +month. + + +BREAD. + +For four loaves of bread of the pan-size given above, allow as follows: +Four quarts of flour; one large cup of yeast; one tablespoonful of salt, +one of sugar, and one of butter or lard; one pint of milk mixed with one +of warm water, or one quart of water alone for the "wetting." + +Sift the flour into a large pan or bowl. Put the sugar, salt, and butter +in the bottom of the bread pan or bowl, and pour on a spoonful or two of +boiling water, enough to dissolve all. Add the quart of wetting, and the +yeast. Now stir in slowly two quarts of the flour; cover with a cloth, +and set in a temperature of about 75° to rise until morning. Bread mixed +at nine in the evening will be ready to mould into loaves or rolls by six +the next morning. In summer it would be necessary to find a cool place; in +winter a warm one,--the chief point being to keep the temperature _even_. +If mixed early in the morning, it is ready to mold and bake in the +afternoon, from seven to eight hours being all it should stand. + +This first mixture is called a _sponge_; and, if only a loaf of graham or +rye bread is wanted, one quart of it can be measured, and thickened with +other flour as in the rules given hereafter. + +To finish as _wheat bread_, stir in enough flour from the two quarts +remaining to make a dough. Flour the molding-board very thickly, and turn +out. Now begin kneading, flouring the hands, but after the dough is +gathered into a smooth lump, using as little flour as may be. Knead with +the palm of the hand as much as possible. The dough quickly becomes a flat +cake. Fold it over, and keep on, kneading not less than twenty minutes; +half an hour being better. + +Make into loaves; put into the pans; set them in a warm place, and let +them rise from thirty to forty-five minutes, or till they have become +nearly double in size. Bake in an oven hot enough to brown a teaspoonful +of flour in one minute; spreading the flour on a bit of broken plate, that +it may have an even heat. Loaves of this size will bake in from forty-five +to sixty minutes. Then take them from the pans; wrap in thick cloths kept +for the purpose and stand them, tilted up against the pans till cold. +Never lay hot bread on a pine table, as it will sweat, and absorb the +pitchy odor and taste; but tilt, so that air may pass around it freely. +Keep well covered in a tin box or large stone pot, which should be wiped +out every day or two, and scalded and dried thoroughly now and then. Pans +for wheat bread should be greased very lightly; for graham or rye, much +more, as the dough sticks and clings. + +Instead of mixing a sponge, all the flour may be molded in and kneaded at +once, and the dough set to rise in the same way. When light, turn out. Use +as little flour as possible, and knead for fifteen minutes; less time +being required, as part of the kneading has already been done. + + +GRAHAM BREAD. + +One quart of wheat sponge; one even quart of graham flour; half a +teacupful of brown sugar or molasses; half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved +in a little hot water; and half a teaspoonful of salt. + +Pour the sponge in a deep bowl; stir in the molasses, &c, and lastly the +flour, which must never be sifted. The mixture should be so stiff, that +the spoon moves with difficulty. Bake in two loaves for an hour or an hour +and a quarter, graham requiring longer baking than wheat. + +If no sponge can be spared, make as follows: One pint of milk or water; +half a cup of sugar or molasses; half a cup of yeast; one teaspoonful of +salt; one cup of wheat flour; two cups of graham. Warm the milk or water; +add the yeast and other ingredients, and then the flour; and set in a cool +place--about 60° Fahrenheit--over-night, graham bread souring more easily +than wheat. Early in the morning stir well; put into two deep, +well-greased pans; let it rise an hour in a warm place, and bake one +hour. + + +GRAHAM MUFFINS. + +These are made by the same rule as the bread. Fill the muffin-pans +two-thirds full; let them rise till even with the top of the pans, which +will take about an hour; and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. To make +them a little nicer, a large spoonful of melted butter may be added, and +two beaten eggs. This will require longer to rise, as butter clogs the +air-cells, and makes the working of the yeast slower. The quantities given +for bread will make two dozen muffins. + + +RYE BREAD. + +This bread is made by nearly the same rule as the graham, either using +wheat sponge, or setting one over-night, but is kneaded slightly. Follow +the rule just given, substituting rye for graham, but use enough rye to +make a dough which can be turned out. It will take a quart. Use wheat +flour for the molding-board and hands, as rye is very sticky; and knead +only long enough to get into good shape. Raise, and bake as in rule for +graham bread. + + +RYE MUFFINS. + +Make by above rule, but use only one pint of rye flour, adding two eggs +and a spoonful of melted butter, and baking in the same way. A set of +earthen cups are excellent for both these and graham muffins, as the heat +in baking is more even. They are used also for pop-overs, Sunderland +puddings, and some small cakes. + + +BROWN BREAD. + +Sift together into a deep bowl one even cup of Indian meal, two heaping +cups of rye flour, one even teaspoonful of salt, and one of soda. To one +pint of hot water add one cup of molasses, and stir till well mixed. Make +a hole in the middle of the meal, and stir in the molasses and water, +beating all till smooth. Butter a tin pudding-boiler, or a three-pint tin +pail, and put in the mixture, setting the boiler into a kettle or saucepan +of boiling water. Boil steadily for four hours, keeping the water always +at the same level. At the end of that time, take out the boiler, and set +in the oven for fifteen minutes to dry and form a crust. Turn out, and +serve hot. + +Milk may be used instead of water, or the same mixture raised over-night +with half a cup of yeast, and then steamed. + + +PLAIN ROLLS. + +A pint-bowlful of bread dough will make twelve small rolls. Increase +amount of dough if more are desired. Flour the molding-board lightly, and +work into the dough a piece of butter or lard the size of an egg. Knead +not less than fifteen minutes, and cut into round cakes, which may be +flattened and folded over, if folded or pocket rolls are wanted. In this +case put a bit of butter or lard the size of a pea between the folds. For +a cleft or French roll make the dough into small round balls, and press a +knife-handle almost through the center of each. Put them about an inch +apart in well-buttered pans, and let them rise an hour and a half before +baking. They require more time to rise than large loaves, as, being small, +heat penetrates them almost at once, and thus there is very little rising +in the oven. + +Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. + + +PARKER-HOUSE ROLLS. + +Two quarts of flour; one pint of milk; butter the size of an egg; one +tablespoonful of sugar; one teacupful of good yeast; one teaspoonful of +salt. + +Boil the milk, and add the butter, salt, and sugar. Sift the flour into a +deep bowl, and, when the milk is merely blood-warm, stir together with +enough of the flour to form a batter or sponge. Do this at nine or ten in +the evening, and set in a cool place, from 50° to 60°. Next morning about +nine mix in the remainder of the flour; turn on to the molding-board; and +knead for twenty minutes, using as little flour as possible. Return to the +bowl, and set in cool place again till about four in the afternoon. Knead +again for fifteen minutes; roll out, and cut into rounds, treating them as +in plain rolls. Let them rise one hour, and bake twenty minutes. One +kneading makes a good breakfast roll; but, to secure the peculiar delicacy +of a "Parker-House," two are essential, and they are generally baked as a +folded or pocket roll. If baked round, make the dough into a long roll on +the board; cut off small pieces, and make into round balls with the hand, +setting them well apart in the pan. + + +SODA AND CREAM OF TARTAR BISCUIT. + +One quart of flour; one even teaspoonful of salt; one teaspoonful of soda, +and two of cream of tartar; a piece of lard or butter the size of an egg; +and a large cup of milk or water. + +Mix the soda, cream of tartar, and salt with the flour, having first +mashed them fine, and sift all together twice. Rub the shortening in with +the hands till perfectly fine. Add the milk; mix and roll out as quickly +as possible; cut in rounds, and bake in a quick oven. If properly made, +they are light as puffs; but their success depends upon thorough and rapid +mixing and baking. + + +BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT. + +Make as above, using two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, instead of +the soda and cream of tartar. + + +BEATEN BISCUIT. + +Three pints of sifted flour; one cup of lard; one teaspoonful of salt. Rub +the lard and flour well together, and make into a very stiff dough with +about a cup of milk or water: a little more may be necessary. Beat the +dough with a rolling-pin for half an hour, or run through the little +machine that comes for the purpose. Make into small biscuit, prick several +times, and bake till brown. + + +WAFERS. + +One pint of sifted flour; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; half a +teaspoonful of salt. + +Rub butter and flour together, and make into dough with half a cup of warm +milk. Beat half an hour with the rolling-pin. Then take a bit of it no +larger than a nut, and roll to the size of a saucer. They can not be too +thin. Flour the pans lightly, and bake in a quick oven from five to ten +minutes. + + +WAFFLES. + +One pint of flour; one teaspoonful of baking powder; half a teaspoonful of +salt; three eggs; butter the size of an egg; and one and a quarter cups of +milk. + +Sift salt and baking powder with the flour; rub in the butter. Mix and +add the beaten yolks and milk, and last stir in the whites which have been +beaten to a stiff froth. Bake at once in well-greased waffle-irons. By +using two cups of milk, the mixture is right for pancakes. If sour milk is +used, substitute soda for the baking powder. Sour cream makes delicious +waffles. + + +RICE OR HOMINY WAFFLES. + +One pint of warm boiled rice or hominy; one cup of sweet or sour milk; +butter the size of a walnut; three eggs; one teaspoonful of salt and one +of soda sifted with one pint of flour. + +Stir rice and milk together; add the beaten yolks; then the flour, and +last the whites beaten stiff. By adding a small cup more of milk, rice +pancakes can be made. Boiled oatmeal or wheaten grits may be substituted +for the rice. + + +BREAKFAST PUFFS OR POP-OVERS. + +One pint of flour, one pint of milk, and one egg. Stir the milk into the +flour; beat the egg very light, and add it, stirring it well in. Meantime +have a set of gem-pans well buttered, heating in the oven. Put in the +dough (the material is enough for a dozen puffs), and bake for half an +hour in a _very hot oven_. This is one of the simplest but most delicate +breakfast cakes made. Ignorant cooks generally spoil several batches by +persisting in putting in baking powder or soda, as they can not believe +that the puffs will rise without. + + +SHORT-CAKE. + +One quart of flour; one teaspoonful of salt and two of baking powder +sifted with the flour; one cup of butter, or half lard and half butter; +one large cup of hot milk. Rub the butter into the flour. Add the milk, +and roll out the dough, cutting in small square cakes and baking to a +light brown. + +For a strawberry or peach short-cake have three tin pie-plates buttered; +roll the dough to fit them, and bake quickly. Fill either, when done, with +a quart of strawberries or raspberries mashed with a cup of sugar, or with +peaches cut fine and sugared, and served hot. + + +CORN BREAD. + +Two cups of corn meal; one cup of flour; one teaspoonful of soda and one +of salt; one heaping tablespoonful of butter; a teacup full of sugar; +three eggs; two cups of sour milk, the more creamy the better. If sweet +milk is used, substitute baking powder for soda. + +Sift meal, flour, soda, and salt together; beat the yolks of the eggs with +the sugar; add the milk, and stir into the meal; melt the butter, and stir +in, beating hard for five minutes. Beat the whites stiff, and stir in, and +bake at once either in one large, round loaf, or in tin pie-plates. The +loaf will need half an hour or a little more; the pie-plates, not over +twenty minutes. + +This can be baked as muffins, or, by adding another cup of milk, becomes a +pancake mixture. + + +HOE-CAKE. + +One quart of corn meal; one teaspoon full of salt; one tablespoonful of +melted lard; one large cup of boiling water. Melt the lard in the water. +Mix the salt with the meal, and pour on the water, stirring it into a +dough. When cool, make either into one large oval cake or two smaller +ones, and bake in the oven to a bright brown, which will take about half +an hour; or make in small cakes, and bake slowly on a griddle, browning +well on each side. Genuine hoe-cake is baked before an open fire on a +board. + + +BUCKWHEAT CAKES. + +Two cups of buckwheat flour; one of wheat flour; one of corn meal; half a +cup of yeast; one teaspoonful of salt; one quart of boiling water. Mix the +corn meal and salt, and pour on the boiling water very slowly, that the +meal may swell. As soon as merely warm, stir in the sifted flour and +yeast. All buckwheat may be used, instead of part wheat flour. Beat well, +cover, and put in a cool place,--about 60°. In the morning stir well, and +add half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm water. Grease +the griddle with a bit of salt pork on a fork, or a _very little_ +drippings rubbed over it evenly, but never have it floating with fat, as +many cooks do. Drop in large spoonfuls, and bake and serve _few at a +time_, or they will become heavy and unfit to eat. If a cupful of the +batter is saved, no yeast need be used for the next baking, and in cold +weather this can be done for a month. + + +HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. + +One quart of flour; one teaspoonful of salt and two of baking powder +sifted with the flour; one pint of huckleberries; half a cup of butter; +two eggs; two cups of sweet milk; two cups of sugar. + +Cream the butter, and add the sugar and yolks of eggs; stir in the milk, +and add the flour slowly; then beating the whites of the eggs stiff, and +adding them. Have the huckleberries picked over, washed, dried, and well +dusted with flour. Stir them in last of all; fill the pans three-quarters +full, and bake in a moderate oven for about half an hour. + + +APPLE CAKE. + +Make as above; but, instead of huckleberries, use one pint of sour, tender +apples, cut in thin slices. It is a delicious breakfast or tea cake. + + +BROWN-BREAD BREWIS. + +Dry all bits of crust or bread in the oven, browning them nicely. To a +pint of these, allow one quart of milk, half a cup of butter, and a +teaspoonful of salt. Boil the milk; add the butter and salt, and then the +browned bread, and simmer slowly for fifteen minutes, or until perfectly +soft. It is very nice. Bits of white bread or sea biscuit can be used in +the same way. + + +CRISPED CRACKERS. + +Split large soft crackers, what is called the "Boston cracker" being best; +butter them well as for eating; lay the buttered halves in baking-pans, +and brown in a quick oven. Good at any meal. + + +SOUR BREAD. + +If, by any mishap, bread has soured a little, make into water toast or +brewis, adding a teaspoonful of soda to the water or milk. + + +TO USE DRY BREAD. + +Brown in the oven every scrap that is left, seeing that it does not +scorch. Roll while hot and crisp, and sift, using the fine crumbs for +croquettes, &c., and the coarser ones for puddings and pancakes. Keep dry +in glass jars; or tin cans will answer. + + +BREAD PANCAKES. + +One cup of coarse crumbs, soaked over-night in a quart of warm milk, or +milk and water. In the morning mash fine, and run through a sieve. Add +three eggs well beaten, half a cup of flour, a large spoonful of sugar, a +teaspoonful of salt, and, if liked, a little nutmeg. If the bread was in +the least sour, add a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm +water. Bake like pancakes, but more slowly. + + +TO FRESHEN STALE BREAD OR ROLLS. + +Wrap in a cloth, and steam for ten or fifteen minutes in a steamer. Then +dry in the oven. Rolls or biscuits may have the top crust wet with a +little melted butter, and then brown a minute after steaming. + + + * * * * * + +CAKE. + + +CAKE-MAKING. + +In all cake-making, see that every thing is ready to your hand,--pans +buttered, or papered if necessary; flour sifted; all spices and other +materials on your working-table; and the fire in good order. + +No matter how plain the cake, there is a certain order in mixing, which, +if followed, produces the best result from the materials used; and this +order is easily reduced to rules. + +First, always cream the butter; that is, stir it till light and creamy. If +very cold, heat the bowl a little, but never enough to melt, only to +soften the butter. Second, add the sugar to the butter, and mix +thoroughly. + +Third, if eggs are used, beat yolks and whites separately for a delicate +cake; add yolks to sugar and butter, and beat together a minute. For a +plain cake, beat yolks and whites together (a Dover egg-beater doing this +better than any thing else can), and add to butter and sugar. + +Fourth, if milk is used, add this. + +Fifth, stir in the measure of flour little by little, and beat smooth. + +Flavoring may be added at any time. If dry spices are used, mix them with +the sugar. Always sift baking powder with the flour. If soda and cream of +tartar are used, sift the cream of tartar with the flour, and dissolve the +soda in a little milk or warm water. For very delicate cakes, powdered +sugar is best. For gingerbreads and small cakes or cookies, light brown +answers. + +Where fruit cake is to be made, raisins should be stoned and chopped, and +currants washed and dried, the day beforehand. A cup of currants being a +nice and inexpensive addition to buns or any plain cake, it is well to +prepare several pounds at once, drying thoroughly, and keeping in glass +jars. Being the very dirtiest article known to the storeroom, currants +require at least three washings in warm water, rubbing them well in the +hands. Then spread them out on a towel, and proceed to pick out all the +sticks, grit, small stones, and legs and wings to be found; then put the +fruit into a slow oven, and dry it carefully, that none may scorch. + +In baking, a moderate oven is one in which a teaspoonful of flour will +brown while you count thirty; a quick one, where but twelve can be +counted. + +The "cup" used in all these receipts is the ordinary kitchen cup, holding +half a pint. The measures of flour are, in all cases, of _sifted flour_, +which can be sifted by the quantity, and kept in a wooden pail. "Prepared +flour" is especially nice for doughnuts and plain cakes. No great variety +of receipts is given, as every family is sure to have one enthusiastic +cake-maker who gleans from all sources; and this book aims to give fuller +space to substantials than to sweets. Half the energy spent by many +housekeepers upon cake would insure the perfect bread, which, nine times +out of ten, is not found upon their tables, and success in which they +count an impossibility. If cake is to be made, however, let it be done in +the most perfect way; seeing only that bread is first irreproachable. + + +SPONGE CAKE. + +One pound of the finest granulated, or of powdered, sugar; half a pound of +sifted flour; ten eggs; grated rind of two lemons, and the juice of one; +and a saltspoonful of salt. + +Break the eggs, yolks and whites separately, and beat the yolks to a +creamy froth. Beat the whites till they can be turned upside down without +spilling. Put yolks and whites together, and beat till blended; then add +the sugar slowly; then the lemon rind and juice and the salt, and last the +flour. Whisk together as lightly and quickly as possible. Turn into either +three buttered bread-pans of the size given on p. 201, or bake in a large +loaf, as preferred. Fill the pans two-thirds full, and, when in the oven, +do not open it for ten minutes. Bake about half an hour, and test by +running a clean broom-straw into the loaf. If it comes out dry, they are +done. Turn out, and cool on a sieve, or on the pans turned upside down. + + +ROLLED JELLY CAKE. + +Three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; one heaped cup of sugar; +one scant cup of flour in which a teaspoonful of baking powder and a pinch +of salt have been sifted; quarter of a cup of boiling water. + +Mix as in sponge cake; add the water last, and bake in a large +roasting-pan, spreading the batter as thinly as possible. It will bake in +ten minutes. When done, and while still hot, spread with any acid jelly, +and roll carefully from one side. This cake is nice for lining +Charlotte-Russe molds also. For that purpose the water may be omitted, its +only use being to make the cake roll more easily. + + +CUP CAKE. + +One cup of butter; two cups of sugar; four eggs, yolks and whites beaten +separately; one cup of milk; three and a half cups of flour; a grated +nutmeg, or a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon; and a heaping teaspoonful of +baking powder. + +Cream the butter; add the sugar, and then the yolks; then the milk and the +whites, and last the flour, in which the baking powder has been sifted. +Bake half an hour, either in two brick loaves or one large one. It is +nice, also, baked in little tins. Half may be flavored with essence, and +the other half with a teaspoonful of mixed spice,--half cinnamon, and the +rest mace and allspice. By using a heaping tablespoonful of yellow ginger, +this becomes a delicious sugar gingerbread, or, with mixed spices and +ginger, a spice gingerbread. + +This cake with the variations upon it makes up page after page in the +large cook-books. Use but half a cup of butter, and you have a plain _Cup +Cake_. Add a cup of currants and one of chopped raisins, and it is plain +_Fruit Cake_, needing to bake one hour. Bake on Washington-pie tins, and +you have the foundation for _Cream_ and _Jelly Cakes_. A little +experience, and then invention, will show you how varied are the +combinations, and how one page in your cook-book can do duty for twenty. + + +POUND CAKE. + +One pound of sugar; one pound of flour; three-quarters of a pound of +butter; nine eggs; one teaspoonful of baking powder, and one of lemon +extract; one nutmeg grated. + +Cream the butter, and add half the flour, sifting the baking powder with +the other half. Beat the yolks to a creamy foam, and add; and then the +sugar, beating hard. Have the whites a stiff froth, and stir in, adding +flavoring and remainder of flour. Bake in one large loaf for one hour, +letting the oven be moderate. Frost, if liked. + + +FRUIT CAKE. + +One pound of butter; one pound of sugar; one pound and a quarter of sifted +flour; ten eggs; two nutmegs grated; a tablespoonful each of ground +cloves, cinnamon, and allspice; a teaspoonful of soda; a cup of brandy or +wine, and one of dark molasses; one pound of citron; two pounds of stoned +and chopped raisins, and two of currants washed and dried. + +Dredge the prepared fruit with enough of the flour to coat it thoroughly. +To have the cake very dark and rich looking, brown the flour a little, +taking great care not to scorch it. Cream the butter, and add the sugar, +in which the spices have been mixed; then the beaten yolks of eggs; then +the whites beaten to a stiff froth, and the flour. Dissolve the soda in a +very little warm water, and add. Now stir in the fruit. Have either one +large, round pan, or two smaller ones. Put at least three thicknesses of +buttered letter-paper on the sides and bottom; turn in the mixture, and +bake for three hours in a moderate oven. Cover with thick paper if there +is the least danger of scorching. This will keep, if well frosted, for two +years. + + +DOVER CAKE. + +One pound of flour; one pound of sugar; half a pound of butter; one teacup +of milk; six eggs; one teaspoonful of baking powder; one grated nutmeg. + +Cream the butter; add first sugar, then beaten yolks of eggs and milk, +then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and last the flour. Bake +forty-five minutes in a large dripping-pan, sifting fine sugar over the +top, and cut in small squares; or it may be baked in one round loaf, and +frosted on the bottom, or in small tins. Half a pound of citron cut fine +is often added. + + +WHITE OR SILVER CAKE. + +Half a cup of butter; a heaping cupful of powdered sugar; two cups of +flour, with a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted in; half a cup of milk; +whites of six eggs; one teaspoonful of almond extract. + +Cream the butter, and add the flour, beating till it is a smooth paste. +Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add the sugar and essence. Now mix +both quickly, and bake in a sheet about an inch and a half thick. About +half an hour will be needed. Frost while hot, with one white of egg, +beaten ten minutes with a small cup of sifted powdered sugar, and juice +of half a lemon. This frosting hardens very quickly. Before it is quite +hard, divide it into oblong or square pieces, scoring at intervals with +the back of a large knife. The milk can be omitted if a richer cake is +wanted. It may also be baked in jelly-cake tins; one small cocoanut +grated, and mixed with one cup of sugar, and spread between, and the whole +frosted. Or beat the white of an egg with one cup of sugar, and the juice +of one large or two small oranges, and spread between. Either form is +delicious. + + +GOLD CAKE. + +One cup of sugar; half a cup of butter; two cups of flour; yolks of six +eggs; grated rind and juice of a lemon or orange; half a teaspoonful of +soda, mixed with the flour, and sifted twice. + +Cream the butter; add the sugar, then the beaten yolks and the flour, +beating hard for several minutes. Last, add the lemon or orange juice, and +bake like silver cake; frosting, if liked. If frosting is made for either +or both cakes, the extra yolks may be used in making this one, eight being +still nicer than six. + + +BREAD CAKE. + +Two cups or a pint-bowlful of raised dough ready for baking; one cup of +butter; two cups of sugar; one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, or half a +nutmeg grated; three eggs; one teaspoonful of soda in quarter of a cup of +warm water, and half a cup of flour. + +Cream the butter, and add the sugar. Then put in the bread dough, and work +together till well mixed. The hand is best for this, though it can be done +with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs, then the flour, and last the soda. Let +it stand in a warm place for one hour, and bake in a moderate oven +forty-five minutes, testing with a broom-straw. A pound of stoned and +chopped raisins is a nice addition. Omitting them, and adding flour enough +to roll out, makes an excellent raised doughnut or bun. Let it rise two +hours; then cut in shapes, and fry in boiling lard. Or, for buns, bake in +a quick oven, and, a minute before taking out, brush the top with a +spoonful of sugar and milk mixed together. + + +PLAIN BUNS. + +One pint-bowlful of dough; one cup of sugar; butter the size of an egg; +one teaspoonful of cinnamon. + +Boll the dough thin. Spread the butter upon it. Mix sugar and cinnamon +together, and sprinkle on it. Now turn over the edges of the dough +carefully to keep the sugar in, and press and work gently for a few +minutes, that it may not break through. Knead till thoroughly mixed. Roll +out; cut like biscuit, and let them rise an hour, baking in a quick oven. + +The same rule can be used for raised doughnuts. + + +DOUGHNUTS. + +First put on the lard, and let it be heating gradually. To test it when +hot, drop in a bit of bread; if it browns as you count twenty, it is +right. Never let it boil furiously, or scorch. This is the rule for all +frying, whether fritters, croquettes, or cakes. + +One quart of flour into which has been sifted a teaspoonful of salt, and +one of soda if sour milk is used, or two of baking powder if sweet milk. +If cream can be had, use part cream, allowing one large cup of milk, or +cream and milk. One heaping cup of fine brown sugar; one teaspoonful of +ground cinnamon, and half a one of mace or nutmeg; use one spoonful of +butter, if you have no cream, stirring it into the sugar. Add two or three +beaten eggs; mixing all as in general directions for cake. They can be +made without eggs. Roll out; cut in shapes, and fry brown, taking them out +with a fork into a sieve set over a pan that all fat may drain off. + +Cut thin, and baked brown in a quick oven, these make a good plain cooky. + + +GINGER SNAPS. + +One cup of butter and lard or dripping mixed, or dripping alone can be +used; one cup of molasses; one cup of brown sugar; two teaspoonfuls of +ginger, and one each of clove, allspice, and mace; one teaspoonful of +salt, and one of soda dissolved in half a cup of hot water; one egg. + +Stir together the shortening, sugar, molasses, and spice. Add the soda, +and then sifted flour enough to make a dough,--about three pints. Turn on +to the board, and knead well. Take about quarter of it, and roll out thin +as a knife-blade. Bake in a quick oven. They will bake in five minutes, +and will keep for months. By using only four cups of flour, this can be +baked in a loaf as spiced gingerbread; or it can be rolled half an inch +thick, and baked as a cooky. In this, as in all cakes, experience will +teach you many variations. + + +PLAIN GINGERBREAD. + +Two cups of molasses; one of sour milk; half a cup of lard or drippings; +four cups of flour; two teaspoonfuls of ginger, and one of cinnamon; half +a teaspoonful of salt; one egg, and a teaspoonful of soda. + +Mix molasses and shortening; add the spice and egg, then the milk, and +last the flour, with soda sifted in it. Bake at once in a sheet about an +inch thick for half an hour. Try with a broom-straw. Good hot for lunch +with chocolate. A plain cooky is made by adding flour enough to roll out. +The egg may be omitted. + + +JUMBLES. + +The richest jumbles are made from either the rule for Pound or Dover Cake, +with flour enough added to roll out. The Cup-Cake rule makes good but +plainer ones. Make rings, either by cutting in long strips and joining the +ends, or by using a large and small cutter. Sift sugar over the top, and +bake a delicate brown. By adding a large spoonful of yellow ginger, any of +these rules become hard sugar-gingerbread, and all will keep for a long +time. + + +DROP CAKES. + +Any of the rules last mentioned become drop cakes by buttering muffin-tins +or tin sheets, and dropping a teaspoonful of these mixtures into them. If +on sheets, let them be two inches apart. Sift sugar over the top, and bake +in a quick oven. They are done as soon as brown. + + +CREAM CAKES. + +One pint of boiling water in a saucepan. Melt in it a piece of butter the +size of an egg. Add half a teaspoonful of salt. While still boiling, stir +in one large cup of flour, and cook for three minutes. Take from the fire; +cool ten minutes; then break in, one by one, six eggs, and beat till +smooth. Have muffin-pans buttered, or large baking-sheets. Drop a spoonful +of the mixture on them, allowing room to spread, and bake half an hour in +a quick oven. Cool on a sieve, and, when cool, fill with a cream made as +below. + +FILLING FOR CREAM CAKES. + +One pint of milk, one cup of sugar, two eggs, half a cup of flour, and a +piece of butter the size of a walnut. + +Mix the sugar and flour, add the beaten eggs, and beat all till smooth. +Stir into the boiling milk with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil for +fifteen minutes. When cold, add a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon. Make a +slit in each cake, and fill with the cream. Corn-starch may be used +instead of flour. This makes a very nice filling for plain cup cake baked +on jelly-cake tins. + + +MERINGUES, OR KISSES. + +Whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth; quarter of a pound of sifted +powdered sugar; a few drops of vanilla. + +Add the sugar to the whites. Have ready a hard-wood board which fits the +oven. Wet the top well with boiling water, and cover it with sheets of +letter-paper. Drop the meringue mixture on this in large spoonfuls, and +set in a _very slow_ oven. The secret of a good meringue is to _dry_, not +bake; and they should be in the oven at least half an hour. Take them out +when dry. Slip a thin, sharp knife under each one, and put two together; +or scoop out the soft part very carefully, and fill with a little jelly or +with whipped cream. + + + + +PASTRY AND PIES. + + +In the first place, don't make either, except very semi-occasionally. +Pastry, even when good, is so indigestible that children should never have +it, and their elders but seldom. A nice short-cake made as on p. 209, and +filled with stewed fruit, or with fresh berries mashed and sweetened, is +quite as agreeable to eat, and far more wholesome. But, as people _will_ +both make and eat pie-crust, the best rules known are given. + +Butter, being more wholesome than lard, should always be used if it can be +afforded. A mixture of lard and butter is next best. Clarified dripping +makes a good crust for meat pies, and cream can also be used. For +dumplings nothing can be better than a light biscuit-crust, made as on p. +208. It is also good for meat pies. + + +PLAIN PIE-CRUST. + +One quart of flour; one even teacup of lard, and one of butter; one teacup +of ice-water or very cold water; and a teaspooonful of salt. + +Rub the lard and salt into the flour till it is dry and crumbly. Add the +ice-water, and work to a smooth dough. Wash the butter, and have it cold +and firm as possible. Divide it in three parts. Roll out the paste, and +dot it all over with bits from one part of the butter. Sprinkle with +flour, and roll up. Roll out, and repeat till the butter is gone. If the +crust can now stand on the ice for half an hour, it will be nicer and more +flaky. This amount will make three good-sized pies. Enough for the bottom +crusts can be taken off after one rolling in of butter, thus making the +top crust richer. Lard alone will make a tender, but not a flaky, paste. + + +PUFF PASTE. + +One pound of flour; three-quarters of a pound of butter; one teacupful of +ice-water; one teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar; yolk of one egg. + +Wash the butter; divide into three parts, reserving a bit the size of an +egg; and put it on the ice for an hour. Rub the bit of butter, the salt, +and sugar, into the flour, and stir in the ice-water and egg beaten +together. Make into a dough, and knead on the molding-board till glossy +and firm: at least ten minutes will be required. Roll out into a sheet ten +or twelve inches square. Cut a cake of the ice-cold butter in thin slices, +or flatten it very thin with the rolling-pin. Lay it on the paste, +sprinkle with flour, and fold over the edges. Press it in somewhat with +the rolling-pin, and roll out again. Always roll _from_ you. Do this again +and again till the butter is all used, rolling up the paste after the last +cake is in, and then putting it on the ice for an hour or more. Have +filling all ready, and let the paste be as nearly ice-cold as possible +when it goes into the oven. There are much more elaborate rules; but this +insures handsome paste. Make a plainer one for the bottom crusts. Cover +puff paste with a damp cloth, and it may be kept on the ice a day or two +before baking. + + +PATTIES FROM PUFF PASTE. + +Roll the paste about a third of an inch thick, and cut out with a round or +oval cutter about two inches in diameter. Take a cutter half an inch +smaller, and press it into the piece already cut out, so as to sink +half-way through the crust: this to mark out the top piece. Lay on tins, +and bake to a delicate brown. They should treble in thickness by rising, +and require from twenty minutes to half an hour to bake. When done, the +marked-out top can easily be removed. Take out the soft inside, and fill +with sweetmeats for dessert, or with minced chicken or oysters prepared as +on p. 140. + + +GRANDMOTHER'S APPLE PIE. + +Line a deep pie-plate with plain paste. Pare sour apples,--greenings are +best; quarter, and cut in thin slices. Allow one cup of sugar, and quarter +of a grated nutmeg mixed with it. Fill the pie-plate heaping full of the +sliced apple, sprinkling the sugar between the layers. It will require not +less than six good-sized apples. Wet the edges of the pie with cold water; +lay on the cover, and press down securely, that no juice may escape. Bake +three-quarters of an hour, or a little less if the apples are very tender. +No pie in which the apples are stewed beforehand can compare with this in +flavor. If they are used, stew till tender, and strain. Sweeten and flavor +to taste. Fill the pies, and bake half an hour. + + +DRIED-APPLE PIES. + +Wash one pint of dried apples, and put in a porcelain kettle with two +quarts of warm water. Let them stand all night. In the morning put on the +fire, and stew slowly for an hour. Then add one pint of sugar, a +teaspoonful of dried lemon or orange rind, or half a fresh lemon sliced, +and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon. Stew half an hour longer, and then use +for filling the pies. The apple can be strained if preferred, and a +teaspoonful of butter added. This quantity will make two pies. Dried +peaches are treated in the same way. + + +LEMON PIES. + +Three lemons, juice of all and the grated rind of two; two cups of sugar; +three cups of boiling water; three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved +in a little cold water; three eggs; a piece of butter the size of an egg. + +Pour the boiling water on the dissolved corn-starch, and boil for five +minutes. Add the sugar and butter, the yolks of the eggs beaten to a +froth, and last the lemon juice and rind. Line the plates with crust, +putting a narrow rim of it around each one. Pour in the filling, and bake +half an hour. Beat the whites to a stiff froth; add half a teacup of +powdered sugar and ten drops of lemon extract, and, when the pie is baked, +spread this on. The heat will cook it sufficiently, but it can be browned +a moment in the oven. If to be kept a day, do not make the frosting till +just before using. The whites will keep in a cold place. Orange pie can be +made in the same way. + + +SWEET-POTATO PIE OR PUDDING. + +One pound of hot, boiled sweet potato rubbed through a sieve; one cup of +butter; one heaping cup of sugar; half a grated nutmeg; one glass of +brandy; a pinch of salt; six eggs. + +Add the sugar, spice, and butter to the hot potato. Beat whites and yolks +separately, and add, and last the brandy. Line deep plates with nice +paste, making a rim of puff paste. Fill with the mixture, and bake till +the crust is done,--about half an hour. Wickedly rich, but very +delicious. Irish potatoes can be treated in the same way, and are more +delicate. + + +SQUASH OR PUMPKIN PIE. + +Prepare and steam as in directions on p. 194. Strain through a sieve. To a +quart of the strained squash add one quart of new milk, with a spoonful or +two of cream if possible; one heaping cup of sugar into which has been +stirred a teaspoonful of salt, a heaping one of ginger, and half a one of +cinnamon. Mix this with the squash, and add from two to four well-beaten +eggs. Bake in deep plates lined with plain pie-crust. They are done when a +knife-blade on being run into the middle comes out clean. About forty +minutes will be enough. For pumpkin pie half a cup of molasses may be +added, and the eggs can be omitted, substituting half a cup of flour mixed +with the sugar and spice before stirring in. A teaspoonful of butter can +also be added. + + +CHERRY AND BERRY PIES. + +Have a very deep plate, and either no under crust save a rim, or a very +thin one. Allow a cup of sugar to a quart of fruit, but no spices. Stone +cherries. Prick the upper crust half a dozen times with a fork to let out +the steam. + +For rhubarb or pie-plant pies, peel the stalks; cut them in little bits, +and fill the pie. Bake with an upper crust. + + +CUSTARD PIE. + +Line and rim deep plates with pastry, a thin custard pie being very poor. +Beat together a teacupful of sugar, four eggs, and a pinch of salt, and +mix slowly with one quart of milk. Fill the plate up to the pastry rim +_after it is in the oven_, and bake till the custard is firm, trying, as +for squash pies, with a knife-blade. + + +MINCE-MEAT FOR PIES. + +Two pounds of cold roast or boiled beef, or a small beef-tongue, boiled +the day beforehand, cooled and chopped; one pound of beef-suet, freed from +all strings, and chopped fine as powder; two pounds of raisins stoned and +chopped; one pound of currants washed and dried; six pounds of chopped +apples; half a pound of citron cut in slips; two pounds of brown sugar; +one pint of molasses; one quart of boiled cider; one pint of wine or +brandy, or a pint of any nice sirup from sweet pickles may be substituted; +two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt; one teaspoonful of pepper; three +tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon; two of allspice; one of clove; one of +mace; three grated nutmegs; grated rind and juice of three lemons; a +cupful of chopped, candied orange or lemon peel. + +Mix spices and salt with sugar, and stir into the meat and suet. Add the +apples, and then the cider and other wetting, stirring very thoroughly. +Lastly, mix in the fruit. Fill and bake as in apple pies. This mince-meat +will keep two months easily. If it ferments at all, put over the fire in a +porcelain-lined kettle, and boil half an hour. Taste, and judge for +yourselves whether more or less spice is needed. Butter can be used +instead of suet, and proportions varied to taste. + + +RAMMEKINS, OR CHEESE STRAWS. + +One pound of puff paste; one cup of good grated cheese. Roll the paste +half an inch thick; sprinkle on half the cheese; press in lightly with the +rolling-pin; roll up, and roll out again, using the other half of the +cheese. Fold, and roll about a third of an inch thick. Cut in long, narrow +strips, four or five inches long and half an inch wide, and bake in a +quick oven to a delicate brown. Excellent with chocolate at lunch, or for +dessert with fruit. + + * * * * * + +PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. + +For boiled puddings a regular pudding-boiler holding from three pints to +two quarts is best, a tin pail with a very tight-fitting cover answering +instead, though not as good. For large dumplings a thick +pudding-cloth--the best being of Canton flannel, used with the nap-side +out--should be dipped in hot water, and wrung out, dredged evenly and +thickly with flour, and laid over a large bowl. From half to +three-quarters of a yard square is a good size. In filling this, pile the +fruit or berries on the rolled-out crust which has been laid in the middle +of the cloth, and gather the edges of the paste evenly over it. Then +gather the cloth up, leaving room for the dumpling to swell, and tying +very tightly. In turning out, lift to a dish; press all the water from the +ends of the cloth; untie and turn away from the pudding, and lay a hot +dish upon it, turning over the pudding into it, and serving at once, as it +darkens or falls by standing. + +In using a boiler, butter well, and fill only two-thirds full that the +mixture may have room to swell. Set it in boiling water, and see that it +is kept at the same height, about an inch from the top. Cover the outer +kettle that the steam may be kept in. Small dumplings, with a single apple +or peach in each, can be cooked in a steamer. Puddings are not only much +more wholesome, but less expensive than pies. + + +APPLE DUMPLING. + +Make a crust, as for biscuit, or a potato-crust as follows: Three large +potatoes, boiled and mashed while hot. Add to them two cups of sifted +flour and one teaspoonful of salt, and mix thoroughly. Now chop or cut +into it one small cup of butter, and mix into a paste with about a +teacupful of cold water. Dredge the board thick with flour, and roll +out,--thick in the middle, and thin at the edges. Fill, as directed, with +apples pared and quartered, eight or ten good-sized ones being enough for +this amount of crust. Boil for three hours. Turn out as directed, and eat +with butter and sirup or with a made sauce. Peaches pared and halved, or +canned ones drained from the sirup, can be used. In this case, prepare the +sirup for sauce, as on p. 172. Blueberries are excellent in the same way. + + +ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING, OR CHRISTMAS PUDDING. + +One pound of raisins stoned and cut in two; one pound of currants washed +and dried; one pound of beef-suet chopped very fine; one pound of +bread-crumbs; one pound of flour; half a pound of brown sugar; eight eggs; +one pint of sweet milk; one teaspoonful of salt; a tablespoonful of +cinnamon; two grated nutmegs; a glass each of wine and brandy. + +Prepare the fruit, and dredge thickly with flour. Soak the bread in the +milk; beat the eggs, and add. Stir in the rest of the flour, the suet, and +last the fruit. Boil six hours either in a cloth or large mold. Half the +amounts given makes a good-sized pudding; but, as it will keep three +months, it might be boiled in two molds. Serve with a rich sauce. + + +ANY-DAY PLUM PUDDING. + +One cup of sweet milk; one cup of molasses; one cup each of raisins and +currants; one cup of suet chopped fine, or, instead, a small cup of +butter; one teaspoonful of salt, and one of soda, sifted with three cups +of flour; one teaspoonful each of cinnamon and allspice. + +Mix milk, molasses, suet, and spice; add flour, and then the fruit. Put in +a buttered mold, and boil three hours. Eat with hard or liquid sauce. A +cupful each of prunes and dates or figs can be substituted for the fruit, +and is very nice; and the same amount of dried apple, measured after +soaking and chopping, is also good. Or the fruit can be omitted +altogether, in which case it becomes "Troy Pudding." + + +BATTER PUDDING, BOILED OR BAKED. + +Two cups of flour in which is sifted a heaping teaspoonful of baking +powder, two cups of sweet milk, four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt. Stir +the flour gradually into the milk, and beat hard for five minutes. Beat +yolks and whites separately, and then add to batter. Have the +pudding-boiler buttered. Pour in the batter, and boil steadily for two +hours. It may also be baked an hour in a buttered pudding-dish. Serve at +once, when done, with a liquid sauce. + + +SUNDERLAND PUDDINGS. + +Are merely puffs or pop-overs eaten with sauce. See p. 209. + + +BREAD PUDDING. + +One cup of dried and rolled bread-crumbs, or one pint of fresh ones; one +quart of milk; two eggs; one cup of sugar; half a teaspoonful of cinnamon; +a little grated nutmeg; a saltspoonful of salt. + +Soak the crumbs in the milk for an hour or two; mix the spice and salt +with the sugar, and beat the eggs with it, stirring them slowly into the +milk. Butter a pudding-dish; pour in the mixture; and bake half an hour, +or till done. Try with a knife-blade, as in general directions. The whites +may be kept out for a meringue, allowing half a teacup of powdered sugar +to them. By using fresh bread-crumbs and four eggs, this becomes what is +known as "Queen of Puddings." As soon as done, spread the top with half a +cup of any acid jelly, and cover with the whites which have been beaten +stiff, with a teacupful of sugar. Brown slightly in the oven. Half a pound +of raisins may be added. + + +BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING. + +Fill a pudding-dish two-thirds full with very thin slices of bread and +butter. A cupful of currants or dried cherries may be sprinkled between +the slices. Make a custard of two eggs beaten with a cup of sugar; add a +quart of milk, and pour over the bread. Cover with a plate, and set on the +back of the stove an hour; then bake from half to three-quarters of an +hour. Serve very hot, as it falls when cool. + + +BREAD-AND-APPLE PUDDING. + +Butter a deep pudding-dish, and put first a layer of crumbs, then one of +any good acid apple, sliced rather thin, and so on till the dish is nearly +full. Six or eight apples and a quart of fresh crumbs will fill a +two-quart dish. Dissolve a cup of sugar and one teaspoonful of cinnamon in +one pint of boiling water, and pour into the dish. Let the pudding stand +half an hour to swell; then bake till brown,--about three-quarters of an +hour,--and eat with liquid sauce. It can be made with slices of bread and +butter, instead of crumbs. + + +BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING. + +Wash one teacupful of tapioca, and put it in one quart of cold water to +soak for several hours. Pare and core as many good apples as will fit in a +two-quart buttered pudding-dish. When the tapioca is softened, add a +cupful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and +pour over the apples. Bake an hour, and eat with or without sauce. + + +TAPIOCA PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; one teacupful of tapioca; three eggs; a cup of sugar; a +teaspoonful of salt; a tablespoonful of butter; a teaspoonful of lemon +extract. + +Wash the tapioca, and soak in the milk for two hours, setting it on the +back of the stove to swell. Beat eggs and sugar together, reserving whites +for a meringue if liked; melt the butter, and add, and stir into the milk. +Bake half an hour. Sago pudding is made in the same way. + + +TAPIOCA CREAM. + +One teacupful of tapioca washed and soaked over-night in one pint of warm +water. Next morning add a quart of milk and a teaspoonful of salt, and +boil in a milk-boiler for two hours. Just before taking it from the fire, +add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and three eggs +beaten with a cup of sugar. The whites may be made in a meringue. Pour +into a glass dish which has had warm water standing in it, to prevent +cracking, and eat cold. Rice or sago cream is made in the same way. + + +PLAIN RICE PUDDING. + +One cup of rice; three pints of milk; one heaping cup of sugar; one +teaspoonful of salt. + +Wash the rice well. Butter a two-quart pudding-dish, and stir rice, sugar, +and salt together. Pour on the milk. Grate nutmeg over it, and bake for +three hours. Very good. + + +MINUTE PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; one pint of flour; two eggs; one teaspoonful of salt. + +Boil the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs, and add the flour slowly, +with enough of the milk to make it smooth. Stir into the boiling milk, and +cook it half an hour. Eat with liquid sauce or sirup. It is often made +without eggs. + + +CORN-STARCH PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch; one cup of sugar; +three eggs; a teaspoonful each of salt and vanilla. + +Boil the milk; dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold milk, and add. +Cook five minutes, and add the eggs and flavoring beaten with the sugar. +Turn into a buttered dish, and bake fifteen minutes, covering then with a +meringue made of the whites, or cool in molds, in this case using only the +whites of the eggs. The yolks can be made in a custard to pour around +them. A cup of grated cocoanut can be added, or two teaspoonfuls of +chocolate stirred smooth in a little boiling water. + + +GELATINE PUDDING. + +Four eggs; one pint of milk; one cup of sugar; a saltspoonful of salt; a +teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla; a third of a box of gelatine. + +Soak the gelatine a few minutes in a little cold water, and then dissolve +it in three-quarters of a cup of boiling water. Have ready a custard made +from the milk and yolks of the eggs. Beat the yolks and sugar together, +and stir into the boiling milk. When cold, add the gelatine water and the +whites of the eggs beaten very stiff. Pour into molds. It is both pretty +and good. + + +CABINET PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; half a package of gelatine; a teaspoonful each of salt +and vanilla; a cup of sugar. + +Boil the milk; soak the gelatine fifteen minutes in a little cold water; +dissolve in the boiling milk, and add the sugar and salt. Now butter a +Charlotte-Russe mold thickly. Cut slips of citron into leaves or pretty +shapes, and stick on the mold. Fill it lightly with any light cake, either +plain or rich. Strain on the gelatine and milk, and set in a cold place. +Turn out before serving. Delicate crackers may be used instead of cake. + + +CORN-MEAL OR INDIAN PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; one cup of sifted corn meal; one cup of molasses (not +"sirup"); one teaspoonful of salt. + +Stir meal, salt, and molasses together. Boil the milk, and add slowly. +Butter a pudding-dish, and pour in the mixture; adding, after it is set in +the oven, one cup of cold milk poured over the top. Bake three hours in a +moderate oven. + + * * * * * + +CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. + + +BAKED CUSTARD. + +One quart of milk; four eggs; one teacup of sugar; half a teaspoonful of +salt; nutmeg. + +Boil the milk. Beat the eggs very light, and add the sugar and salt. Pour +on the milk very slowly, stirring constantly. Bake in a pudding-dish or in +cups. If in cups, set them in a baking-pan, and half fill it with boiling +water. Grate nutmeg over each. The secret of a good custard is in slow +baking and the most careful watching. Test often with a knife-blade, and +do not bake an instant after the blade comes out smooth and clean. To be +eaten cold. Six eggs are generally used; but four are plenty. + + +BOILED CUSTARD. + +One quart of milk; three or four eggs; one cup of sugar; one teaspoonful +of vanilla; half a teaspoonful of salt; one teaspoonful of corn-starch. + +Boil the milk. Dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold water, and boil +in the milk five minutes. It prevents the custard from curdling, which +otherwise it is very apt to do. Beat the eggs and sugar well together, +stir into the milk, and add the salt and flavoring. Take at once from the +fire, and, when cool, pour either into a large glass dish, covering with a +meringue of the whites, or into small glasses with a little jelly or jam +at the bottom of each. Or the whites can be used in making an apple-float, +as below, and the yolks for the custard. + +For _Cocoanut Custard_ add a cup of grated cocoanut; for _Chocolate_, two +tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate dissolved in half a cup of boiling +water. + + +TIPSY PUDDING. + +Make a boiled custard as directed. Half fill a deep dish with any light, +stale cake. Add to a teacup of wine a teacup of boiling water, and pour +over it. Add the custard just before serving. + + +APPLE FLOAT. + +Six good, acid apples stewed and strained. When cold, add a teacupful of +sugar, half a teaspoonful of vanilla, and the beaten whites of three or +four eggs. Serve at once. + + +BLANCMANGE. + +One quart of milk; one cup of sugar; half a package of gelatine; half a +teaspoonful of salt; a teaspoonful of any essence liked. + +Soak the gelatine ten minutes in half a cup of cold water. Boil the milk, +and add gelatine and the other ingredients. Strain into molds, and let it +stand in a cold place all night to harden. For chocolate blancmange add +two tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate dissolved in a little boiling +water. + + +SPANISH CREAM. + +Make a blancmange as on p. 238; but, just before taking from the fire, add +the yolks of four eggs, and then strain. The whites can be used for +meringues. + + +WHIPPED CREAM. + +One pint of rich cream; one cup of sugar; one glass of sherry or Madeira. + +Mix all, and put on the ice an hour, as cream whips much better when +chilled. Using a whip-churn enables it to be done in a few minutes; but a +fork or egg-beater will answer. Skim off all the froth as it rises, and +lay on a sieve to drain, returning the cream which drips away to be +whipped over again. Set on the ice a short time before serving. + + +CHARLOTTE RUSSE. + +Make a sponge cake as on p. 216, and line a Charlotte mold with it, +cutting a piece the size of the bottom, and fitting the rest around the +sides. Fill with cream whipped as above, and let it stand on the ice to +set a little. This is the easiest form of Charlotte. It is improved by the +beaten whites of three eggs stirred into the cream. Flavor with half a +teaspoonful of vanilla if liked. + + +BAVARIAN CREAM. + +Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth. Boil a pint of rich milk with a +teacupful of sugar, and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. Soak half a box of +gelatine for an hour in half a cup of warm water, and add to the milk. Add +the yolks of four eggs beaten smooth, and take from the fire instantly. + +When cold and just beginning to thicken, stir in the whipped cream. Put +in molds, and set in a cold place. This can be used also for filling +Charlotte Russe. For chocolate add chocolate as directed in rule for +boiled custard; for coffee, one teacup of clear, strong coffee. + + +STRAWBERRY CREAM. + +Three pints of strawberries mashed fine. Strain the juice, and add a +heaping cup of sugar, and then gelatine soaked as above, and dissolved in +a teacup of boiling water. Add the pint of whipped cream, and pour into +molds. + + +FRUIT CREAMS. + +Half a pint of peach or pine-apple marmalade stirred smooth with a +teacupful of sweet cream. Add gelatine dissolved as in rule for strawberry +cream, and, when cold, the pint of whipped cream. These creams are very +delicious, and not as expensive as rich pastry. + + +OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE. + +Six whites and three yolks of eggs; three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar +sifted; a few drops of lemon or vanilla. Beat the yolks, flavoring, and +sugar to a light cream; beat the whites to the stiffest froth. Have the +yolks in a deep bowl. Turn the whites on to them, and do not stir, but +mix, by cutting down through the middle, and gradually mixing white and +yellow. Turn on to a tin or earthen baking-dish with high sides, and bake +in a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes. It will rise very high, +and must be served the instant it is done, to avoid its falling. + + +FRIED CREAM. + +One pint of milk; half a cup of sugar; yolks of three eggs; two +tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and one of flour mixed; half a teaspoonful +of vanilla, and two inches of stick-cinnamon; a teaspoonful of butter. + +Boil the cinnamon in the milk. Stir the corn-starch and flour smooth in a +little cold milk or water, and add to the milk. Beat the yolks light with +the sugar, and add. Take from the fire; take out the cinnamon, and stir in +the butter and vanilla, and pour out on a buttered tin or dish, letting it +be about half an inch thick. When cold and stiff, cut into pieces about +three inches long and two wide. Dip carefully in sifted cracker-crumbs; +then in a beaten egg, and in crumbs again, and fry like croquettes. Dry in +the oven four or five minutes, and serve at once. Very delicious. + + +PEACH FRITTERS. + +Make a batter as on p. 208. Take the fruit from a small can of peaches, +lay it on a plate, and sprinkle with a spoonful of sugar and a glass of +wine. Let it lie an hour, turning it once. Dip each piece in batter, and +drop in boiling lard, or chop and mix with batter. Prepare the juice for a +sauce as on p. 172. Fresh peaches or slices of tender apple can be used in +the same way. Drain on brown paper, and sift sugar over them, before they +go to table. + + +FREEZING OF ICE CREAM AND ICES. + +With a patent freezer ice cream and ices can be prepared with less trouble +than puff paste. The essential points are the use of rock-salt, and +pounding the ice into small bits. Set the freezer in the centre of the +tub. Put a layer of ice three inches deep, then of salt, and so on till +the tub is full, ending with ice. Put in the cream, and turn for ten +minutes, or till you can not turn the beater. Then take off the cover, +scrape down the sides, and beat like cake for at least five minutes. Pack +the tub again, having let off all water; cover with a piece of old carpet. +If molds are used, fill as soon as the cream is frozen; pack them full of +it, and lay in ice and salt. When ready to turn out, dip in warm water a +moment. Handle gently, and serve at once. + + +ICE CREAM OF CREAM. + +To a gallon of sweet cream add two and a quarter pounds of sugar, and four +tablespoonfuls of vanilla or other extract, as freezing destroys flavors. +Freeze as directed. + + +ICE CREAM WITH EGGS. + +Boil two quarts of rich milk, and add to it, when boiling, four +tablespoonfuls of corn-starch wet with a cup of cold milk. Boil for ten +minutes, stirring often. Beat twelve eggs to a creamy froth with a heaping +quart of sugar, and stir in, taking from the fire as soon as it boils. +When cold, add three tablespoonfuls of vanilla or lemon, and two quarts +either of cream or very rich milk, and freeze. For strawberry or raspberry +cream allow the juice of one quart of berries to a gallon of cream. For +chocolate cream grate half a pound of chocolate; melt it with one pint of +sugar and a little water, and add to above rule. + + +WATER ICES. + +Are simply fruit juices and water made very sweet, with a few whites of +eggs whipped stiff, and added. For lemon ice take two quarts of water, +one quart of sugar, and the juice of seven lemons. Mix and add, after it +has begun to freeze, the stiffly-beaten whites of four eggs. Orange ice is +made in the same way. + + +WINE JELLY. + +One box of gelatine; one cup of wine; three lemons, juice and rind; a +small stick of cinnamon; one quart of boiling water; one pint of white +sugar. + +Soak the gelatine in one cup of cold water half an hour. Boil the cinnamon +in the quart of water for five minutes, and then add the yellow rind of +the lemons cut very thin, and boil a minute. Take out cinnamon and rinds, +and add sugar, wine, and gelatine. Strain at once through a fine strainer +into molds, and, when cold, set on the ice to harden. To turn out, dip for +a moment in hot water. A pint of wine is used, if liked very strong. + + + +LEMON JELLY. + +Omit the wine, but make as above in other respects, using five lemons. +Oranges are nice also. The juice may be used as in lemon jelly, or the +little sections may be peeled as carefully as possible of all the white +skin. Pour a little lemon jelly in a mold, and let it harden. Then fill +with four oranges prepared in this way, and pour in liquid jelly to cover +them. Candied fruit may be used instead. The jelly reserved to add to the +mold can be kept in a warm place till the other has hardened. Fresh +strawberries or raspberries, or cut-up peaches, can be used instead of +oranges. + +CANNING AND PRESERVING. + +Canning is so simple an operation that it is unfortunate that most people +consider it difficult. The directions generally given are so troublesome +that one can not wonder it is not attempted oftener; but it need be hardly +more care than the making of apple sauce, which, by the way, can always be +made while apples are plenty, and canned for spring use. In an experience +of years, not more than one can in a hundred has ever been lost, and fruit +put up at home is far nicer than any from factories. + +In canning, see first that the jars are clean, the rubbers whole and in +perfect order, and the tops clean and ready to screw on. Fill the jars +with hot (not boiling) water half an hour before using, and have them +ready on a table sufficiently large to hold the preserving-kettle, a +dish-pan quarter full of hot water, and the cans. Have ready, also, a deep +plate, large enough to hold two cans; a silver spoon; an earthen cup with +handle; and, if possible, a can-filler,--that is, a small tin in +strainer-shape, but without the bottom, and fitting about the top. The +utmost speed is needed in filling and screwing down tops, and for this +reason every thing _must be_ ready beforehand. + +In filling the can let the fruit come to the top; then run the +spoon-handle down on all sides to let out the air; pour in juice till it +runs over freely, and screw the top down at once, using a towel to protect +the hand. Set at once in a dish-pan of water, as this prevents the table +being stained by juice, and also its hardening on the hot can. Proceed in +this way till all are full; wipe them dry; and, when cold, give the tops +an additional screw, as the glass contracts in cooling, and loosens them. +Label them, and keep in a dark, cool closet. When the fruit is used, wash +the jar, and dry carefully at the back of the stove. Wash the rubber also, +and dry on a towel, putting it in the jar when dry, and screwing on the +top. They are then ready for next year's use. Mason's cans are decidedly +the best for general use. + + +GENERAL RULES FOR CANNING. + +For all small fruits allow one-third of a pound of sugar to a pound of +fruit. Make it into a sirup with a teacup of water to each pound, and skim +carefully. Throw in the fruit, and boil ten minutes, canning as directed. +Raspberries and blackberries are best; huckleberries are excellent for +pies, and easily canned. Pie-plant can be stewed till tender. It requires +half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. + +For peaches, gages, &c, allow the same amount of sugar as for raspberries. +Pare peaches, and can whole or in halves as preferred. Prick plums and +gages with a large darning-needle to prevent their bursting. In canning +pears, pare and drop at once, into cold water, as this prevents their +turning dark. + +Always use a porcelain-lined kettle, and stir either with a silver or a +wooden spoon,--never an iron one. Currants are nice mixed with an equal +weight of raspberries, and all fruit is more wholesome canned than in +preserves. + + +TO CAN TOMATOES. + +Unless very plenty, it is cheaper to buy these in the tins. Pour on +boiling water to help in removing the skins; fill the preserving kettle, +but add no water. Boil them five minutes, and then can. Do not season till +ready to use them for the table. Okra and tomatoes may be scalded together +in equal parts, and canned for soups. + + +PRESERVES. + +Preserves are scarcely needed if canning is nicely done. They require much +more trouble, and are too rich for ordinary use, a pound of sugar to one +of fruit being required. If made at all, the fruit must be very fresh, and +the sirup perfectly clear. For sirup allow one teacup of cold water to +every pound of sugar, and, as it heats, add to every three or four pounds +the white of an egg. Skim very carefully, boiling till no more rises, and +it is ready for use. Peaches, pears, green gages, cherries, and +crab-apples are all preserved alike. Peel, stone, and halve peaches, and +boil only a few pieces at a time till clear. Peel, core, and halve pears. +Prick plums and gages several times. Core crab-apples, and cut half the +stem from cherries. Cook till tender. Put up _when cold_ in small jars, +and paste paper over them. + + +JAMS. + +Make sirup as directed above. Use raspberries, strawberries, or any small +fruit, and boil for half an hour. Put up in small jars or tumblers; lay +papers dipped in brandy on the fruit, and paste on covers, or use patent +jelly-glasses. + + +MARMALADE. + +Quinces make the best; but crab-apples or any sour apple are also good. +Poor quinces, unfit for other use, can be washed and cut in small pieces, +coring, but not paring them. Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar and +a teacupful of water to a pound of fruit, and boil slowly two hours, +stirring and mashing it fine. Strain through a colander, and put up in +glasses or bowls. Peach marmalade is made in the same way. + + +CURRANT JELLY. + +The fruit must be picked when just ripened, as when too old it will not +form jelly. Look over, and then put stems and all in a porcelain-lined +kettle. Crush a little of the fruit to form juice, but add no water. As it +heats, jam with a potato-masher; and when hot through, strain through a +jelly-bag. Let all run off that will, before squeezing the bag. It will be +a little clearer than the squeezed juice. To every pint of this juice add +one pound of best white sugar, taking care that it has not a blue tinge. +Jelly from bluish-white sugars does not harden well. Boil the juice +twenty-five minutes; add the sugar, and boil for five more. Put up in +glasses. + + +ORANGE MARMALADE. + +This recipe, taken from the "New York Evening Post," has been thoroughly +tested by the author, and found delicious. + +"A recipe for orange marmalade that I think will be entirely new to most +housewives, and that I know is delicious, comes from an English +housekeeper. It is a sweet that is choice and very healthful. If made now, +when oranges and lemons are plentiful, it may be had at a cost of from +five to six cents for a large glass. The recipe calls for one dozen +oranges (sweet or part bitter), one half-dozen lemons, and ten pounds of +granulated sugar. Wash the fruit in tepid water thoroughly, and scrub the +skins with a soft brush to get rid of the possible microbes that it is +said may lurk on the skins of fruit. Dry the fruit; take a very sharp +knife, and on a hard-wood board slice it very thin. Throw away the thick +pieces that come off from the ends. Save all the seeds, and put them in +one bowl; the sliced fruit in another. Pour half a gallon of water over +the contents of each bowl, and soak for thirty-six hours. Then put the +fruit in your preserving-kettle, with the water that has been standing on +it, and strain in (through a colander) the water put on the lemon-seeds. +Cook gently two hours; then add the sugar, and cook another hour, or until +the mixture jellies. Test by trying a little in a saucer. Put away in +glasses or cans, as other jelly." + + +FRUIT JELLIES. + +Crab-apple, quince, grapes, &c., are all made in the same way. Allow a +teacup of water to a pound of fruit; boil till very tender; then strain +through a cloth, and treat as currant jelly. Cherries will not jelly +without gelatine, and grapes are sometimes troublesome. Where gelatine is +needed, allow a package to two quarts of juice. + + +CANDIED FRUITS. + +Make a sirup as for preserves, and boil any fruit, prepared as directed, +until tender. Let them stand two days in the sirup. Take out; drain +carefully; lay them on plates; sift sugar over them, and dry either in the +sun or in a moderately warm oven. + +PICKLES AND CATCHUPS. + +Sour pickles are first prepared by soaking in a brine made of one pint of +coarse salt to six quarts of water. Boil this, and pour it scalding hot +over the pickle, cucumbers, green tomatoes, &c. Cucumbers may lie in this +a week, or a month even, but must be soaked in cold water two days before +using them. Other pickles lie only a month. + +Sweet pickles are made from any fruit used in preserving, allowing three, +or sometimes four, pounds of sugar to a quart of best cider vinegar, and +boiling both together. + + +CUCUMBER PICKLES. + +Half a bushel of cucumbers, small, and as nearly as possible the same +size. Make a brine as directed, and pour over them. Next morning prepare a +pickle as follows: Two gallons of cider vinegar; one quart of brown sugar. +Boil, and skim carefully, and add to it half a pint of white mustard seed; +one ounce of stick-cinnamon broken fine; one ounce of alum; half an ounce +each of whole cloves and black pepper-corns. Boil five minutes, and pour +over the cucumbers. They can be used in a week. In a month scald the +vinegar once more, and pour over them. + + +TOMATO CHUTNEY. + +One peck of green tomatoes; six large green peppers; six onions; one cup +of salt. Chop onions and peppers fine, slice the tomatoes about quarter of +an inch thick, and sprinkle the salt over all. In the morning drain off +all the salt and water, and put the tomatoes in a porcelain-lined kettle. +Mix together thoroughly two pounds of brown sugar; quarter of a pound of +mustard-seed; one ounce each of powdered cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and +black pepper; half an ounce of allspice; quarter of an ounce each of +cayenne pepper and ground mustard. Stir all into the tomatoes; cover with +cider vinegar,--about two quarts,--and boil slowly for two hours. Very +nice, but very hot. If wanted less so, omit the cayenne and ground +mustard. + + +RIPE CUCUMBER OR MELON-RIND PICKLES. + +Pare, seed, and cut lengthwise into four pieces, or in thick slices. Boil +an ounce of alum in one gallon of water, and pour over them, letting them +stand at least half a day on the back of the stove. Take them out, and let +them lie in cold water until cold. Have ready a quart of vinegar, three +pounds of brown sugar, and an ounce of stick-cinnamon and half an ounce +cloves. Boil the vinegar and sugar, and skim; add the spices and the melon +rind or cucumber, and boil for half an hour. + + +SWEET-PICKLED PEACHES, PEARS, OR PLUMS. + +Seven pounds of fruit; four pounds of brown sugar; one quart of vinegar; +one ounce of cloves; two ounces of stick-cinnamon. Pare the peaches or +not, as liked. If unpared, wash and wipe each one to rub off the wool. +Boil vinegar and sugar, and skim well; add spices, sticking one or two +cloves in each peach. Boil ten minutes, and take out into jars. Boil the +sirup until reduced one-half, and pour over them. Pears are peeled and +cored; apples peeled, cored, and quartered. They can all be put in stone +jars; but Mason's cans are better. + + +TOMATO CATCHUP. + +Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes, skins and all, and, when soft, strain +through a colander. Be sure that it is a colander, and _not_ a sieve, for +reasons to be given. Add to this pulp two quarts of best vinegar; one cup +of salt; two pounds of brown sugar; half an ounce of cayenne pepper; three +ounces each of powdered allspice and mace; two ounces of powdered +cinnamon; three ounces of celery-seed. Mix spices and sugar well together, +and stir into the tomato; add the vinegar, and stir thoroughly. Now strain +the whole through a _sieve_. A good deal of rather thick pulp will not go +through. Pour all that runs through into a large kettle, and let it boil +slowly till reduced one-half. Put the thick pulp into a smaller kettle, +and boil twenty minutes. Use as a pickle with cold meats or with boiled +fish. A teacupful will flavor a soup. In the old family rule from which +this is taken, a pint of brandy is added ten minutes before the catchup is +done; but it is not necessary, though an improvement. Bottle, and keep in +a cool, dark place. It keeps for years. + + * * * * * + +CANDIES. + + +CREAM CANDY. + +One pound of granulated sugar; one teacupful of water; half a teacupful of +vinegar. Boil--trying very often after the first ten minutes--till it will +harden in cold water. Cool, and pull white. + + +CHOCOLATE CARAMELS. + +One cup of sugar; one cup of milk; half a cup of molasses; two ounces of +grated chocolate. Melt the chocolate in a very little water; add the +sugar, milk, and molasses, and boil twenty minutes, or until very thick. +Pour in buttered pans, and cut in small squares when cool. + + +MOLASSES CANDY. + +Two cups of molasses, one of brown sugar, a teaspoonful of butter, and a +tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil from twenty minutes to half an hour. Pour +in a buttered dish, and pull when cool. + + +NUT CANDY. + +Make molasses candy as above. Just before taking it from the fire, add a +heaping pint of shelled peanuts or walnuts. Cut in strips before it is +quite cold. + + +COCOANUT DROPS. + +One cocoanut grated; half its weight in powdered sugar; whites of two +eggs; one teaspoonful of corn-starch. Mix corn-starch and sugar; add +cocoanut, and then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Make in little +cones, and bake on buttered paper in a slow oven. + + +CHOCOLATE CREAMS. + +One pound of granulated sugar; half a pound of chocolate; one teaspoonful +of acetic acid; one tablespoonful of water; one teaspoonful of vanilla. +Melt the sugar slowly, wetting a little with the water. Add the acid and +vanilla, and boil till sugary, trying _very_ often by stirring a little in +a saucer. When sugary, take from the fire, and stir until almost hard; +then roll in little balls, and put on a buttered plate. Melt the chocolate +in two tablespoonfuls of water with a cup of sugar, and boil five minutes. +When just warm, dip in the little balls till well coated, and lay on +plates to dry. Very nice. + + * * * * * + +SICK-ROOM COOKERY. + +GENERAL HINTS. + +As recovery from any illness depends in large part upon proper food, and +as the appetite of the sick is always capricious and often requires +tempting, the greatest pains should be taken in the preparation of their +meals. If only dry toast and tea, let each be perfect, remembering +instructions for making each, and serving on the freshest of napkins and +in dainty china. A _tête-à-tête_ service is very nice for use in a +sick-room; and in any case a very small teapot can be had, that the tea +may always be made fresh. Prepare only a small amount of any thing, and +never discuss it beforehand. A surprise will often rouse a flagging +appetite. Be ready, too, to have your best attempts rejected. The article +disliked one day may be just what is wanted the next. Never let food stand +in a sick-room,--for it becomes hateful to a sensitive patient,--and have +every thing as daintily clean as possible. Remember, too, that gelatine is +not nourishing, and do not be satisfied to feed a patient on jellies. +Bread from any brown flour will be more nourishing than wheat. Corn meal +is especially valuable for thin, chilly invalids, as it contains so much +heat. In severe sickness a glass tube is very useful for feeding gruels +and drinks, and little white china boats with spouts are also good. A +wooden tray with legs six or seven inches high, to stand on the bed, is +very convenient for serving meals. Let ventilation, sunshine, and absolute +cleanliness rule in the sick-room. Never raise a dust, but wipe the carpet +with a damp cloth, and pick up bits as needed. Never let lamp or sun light +shine directly in the eyes, and, when the patient shows desire to sleep, +darken the room a little. Never whisper, nor wear rustling dresses, nor +become irritated at exactions, but keep a cheerful countenance, which +helps often far more than drugs. Experience must teach the rest. + + +BEEF TEA, OR ESSENCE OF BEEF. + +Cut a pound of perfectly lean beef into small bits. Do not allow any +particle of fat to remain. Put in a wide-mouthed bottle, cork tightly, and +set in a kettle of cold water. Boil for three hours; pour off the juice, +which is now completely extracted from the meat. There will be probably a +small cupful. Season with a saltspoonful of salt. This is given in extreme +sickness, feeding a teaspoonful at a time. + + +BEEF TEA FOR CONVALESCENTS. + +One pound of lean beef prepared as above. Add a pint of cold +water,--rain-water is best,--and soak for an hour. Cover closely, and boil +for ten minutes; or put in the oven, and let it remain an hour. Pour off +the juice, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, and use. A little +celery salt makes a change. + + +CHICKEN BROTH. + +The bones and a pound of meat from a chicken put in three pints of cold +water. Skim thoroughly when it comes to a boil, add a teaspoonful of salt, +and simmer for three hours. Strain and serve. A tablespoonful of soaked +rice or tapioca may be added after the broth is strained. Return it in +this case to the fire, and boil half an hour longer. + + +CHICKEN JELLY. + +Boil chicken as for broth, but reduce the liquid to half a pint. Strain +into a cup or little mold, and turn out when cold. + + +CHICKEN PANADA. + +Take the breast of the chicken boiled as above; cut in bits, and pound +smooth in a mortar. Take a teacupful of bread-crumbs; soak them soft in +warm milk, or, if liked better, in a little broth. Mix them with the +chicken; add a saltspoonful of salt, and, if allowed, a pinch of mace; and +serve in a cup with a spoon. + + +BEEF, TAPIOCA, AND EGG BROTH. + +One pound of lean beef, prepared as for beef tea, and soaked one hour in a +quart of cold water. Boil slowly for two hours. Strain it. Add a half +teaspoonful of salt, and half a cupful of tapioca which has been washed +and soaked an hour in warm water. Boil slowly half an hour. Serve in a +shallow bowl, in which a poached egg is put at the last, or stir a beaten +egg into one cup of the boiling soup, and serve at once with wafers or +crackers. + + +MUTTON BROTH. + +Made as chicken broth. Any strong stock, from which the fat has been +taken, answers for broths. + + +OATMEAL GRUEL. + +Have ready, in a double boiler, one quart of boiling water with a +teaspoonful of salt, and sprinkle in two tablespoonfuls of fine oatmeal. +Boil an hour; then strain, and serve with cream or milk and sugar if +ordered. Farina gruel is made in the same way. + + +INDIAN OR CORN MEAL GRUEL. + +One quart of boiling water; one teaspoonful of salt. Mix three +tablespoonfuls of corn meal with a little cold water, and stir in slowly. +Boil one hour; strain and serve, a cupful at once. + + +MILK PORRIDGE. + +One quart of boiling milk; two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with a little +cold milk and half a teaspoonful of salt. Stir into the milk, and boil +half an hour. + +Strain and serve. If allowed, a handful of raisins and a little grated +nutmeg may be boiled with it. + + +WINE WHEY. + +Boil one cup of new milk, and add half a wine-glass of good sherry or +Madeira wine. Boil a minute; strain, and use with or without sugar as +liked. + + +EGG-NOG. + +One egg; one tablespoonful of sugar; half a cup of milk; one tablespoonful +of wine. + +Beat the sugar and yolk to a cream; add the wine, and then the milk. Beat +the white to a stiff froth, and stir in very lightly. + +Omit the milk where more condensed nourishment is desired. + + +ARROW-ROOT OR RICE JELLY. + +Two heaping teaspoonfuls of either arrow-root or rice flour; a pinch of +salt; a heaping tablespoonful of sugar; one cup of boiling water. + +Mix the flour with a little cold water, and add to the boiling water. Boil +until transparent, and pour into cups or small molds. For a patient with +summer complaint, flavor by boiling a stick of cinnamon in it. For a fever +patient add the juice of quarter of a lemon. + + +DR. GAUNT'S RICE JELLY. + +Take four tablespoonfuls of rice, and boil it hard in three pints of water +for twenty minutes. Let simmer for two hours. Then force through fine hair +strainer, and allow it to cool. Place in an ice chest over night. + +DIRECTIONS FOR USE. + +Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of the rice jelly in each one-half pint of +milk. + + +RICE WATER FOR DRINK. + +One quart of boiling water; a pinch of salt; one tablespoonful of rice or +rice flour. Boil half an hour, and strain. + + +TOAST WATER. + +Toast two slices of bread very brown, but do not scorch. Put in a pitcher, +and while hot pour on one quart of cold water. Let it stand half an hour, +and it is ready for use. + + +CRUST COFFEE. + +Two thick slices of graham or Boston brown bread toasted as brown as +possible. Pour on one pint of boiling water, and steep ten minutes. Serve +with milk and sugar, like coffee. + + +BEEF JUICE. + +Broil a thick piece of beef steak three minutes. Squeeze all the juice +with a lemon-squeezer into a cup; salt very lightly, and give like beef +tea. + + +JELLY AND ICE. + +Break ice in bits no bigger than a pea. A large pin will break off bits +from a lump very easily. To a tablespoonful add one of wine jelly broken +up. It is very refreshing in fever. + + +PANADA. + +Lay in a bowl two Boston or graham crackers split; sprinkle on a pinch of +salt, and cover with boiling water. Set the bowl in a saucepan of boiling +water, and let it stand half an hour, till the crackers look clear. Slide +into a hot saucer without breaking, and eat with cream and sugar. As they +are only good hot, do just enough for the patient's appetite at one time. + + +MILK TOAST. + +Toast one or two thin slices of bread; dip quickly in a little salted +boiling water, and spread on a little butter. Boil a teacupful of milk; +thicken with a teaspoonful of flour mixed in a little cold water with a +pinch of salt; lay the toast in a small, hot, deep plate, and pour over +the milk. Cream toast is made in the same way. + + +BEEF SANDWICH. + +Two or three tablespoonfuls of raw, very tender beef, scraped fine, and +spread between two slices of slightly buttered bread. Sprinkle on pepper +and salt. + + +PREPARED FLOUR. + +Tie a pint of flour tightly in a cloth, and boil for four hours. Scrape +off the outer crust, and the inside will be found to be a dry ball. Grate +this as required, allowing one tablespoonful wet in cold milk to a pint of +boiling milk, and boiling till smooth. Add a saltspoonful of salt. This is +excellent for summer complaint, whether in adults or children. The beaten +white of an egg can also be stirred in if ordered. If this porridge is +used from the beginning of the complaint, little or no medicine will be +required. + + +PARCHED RICE. + +Roast to a deep brown as you would coffee, and then cook as in rule for +boiled rice, p. 199, and eat with cream and sugar. + + +RICE COFFEE. + +Parch as above, and grind. Allow half a cup to a quart of boiling water, +and let it steep fifteen minutes. Strain, and drink plain, or with milk +and sugar. + + +HERB TEAS. + +For the dried herbs allow one teaspoonful to a cup of boiling water. Pour +the water on them; cover, and steep ten minutes or so. Camomile tea is +good for sleeplessness; calamus and catnip for babies' colic; and cinnamon +for hemorrhages and summer complaint. Slippery-elm and flax-seed are also +good for the latter. + + +BEEF STEAK OR CHOPS, ETC. + +With beef steak, cut a small thick piece of a nice shape; broil carefully, +and serve on a very hot plate, salting a little, but using no butter +unless allowed by the physician. + +Chops should be trimmed very neatly, and cooked in the same way. A nice +way of serving a chop is to broil, and cut in small bits. Have ready a +baked potato. Cut a slice from the top; take out the inside, and season as +for eating; add the chop, and return all to the skin, covering it, and +serving as hot as possible. + +When appetite has returned, poached eggs on toast, a little salt cod with +cream, or many of the dishes given under the head of Breakfast Dishes, are +relished. Prepare small quantities, preserving the right proportions of +seasoning. + + +TAPIOCA JELLY. + +Two ounces of tapioca,--about two tablespoonfuls,--soaked over-night in +one cup of cold water. In the morning add a second cup of cold water, and +boil till very clear. Add quarter of a cup of sugar; two teaspoonfuls of +brandy or four of wine; or the thin rind and juice of a lemon may be used +instead. Very good hot, but better poured into small molds wet with cold +water, and turned out when firm. + + +TAPIOCA GRUEL. + +Half a cup of tapioca soaked over-night in a cup of cold water. In the +morning add a quart of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt, and boil three +hours. It can be eaten plain, or with sugar and wine. Most of the +blancmanges and creams given can be prepared in smaller quantities, if +allowed. Baked custards can be made with the whites of the eggs, if a very +delicate one is desired. + + +APPLE WATER. + +Two roasted sour apples, or one pint of washed dried apples. Pour on one +quart of boiling water; cover, and let it stand half an hour, when it is +ready for use. + + + + +HOUSEHOLD HINTS. + + +SOFT SOAP. + +All mutton and ham fat should be melted and strained into a large stone +pot. The practice of throwing lumps of fat into a pot, and waiting till +there are several pounds before trying them out, is a disgusting one, as +often such a receptacle is alive with maggots. Try out the fat, and strain +as carefully as you would lard or beef drippings, and it is then always +ready for use. If concentrated lye or potash, which comes in little tins, +is used, directions will be found on the tins. Otherwise allow a pound of +stone potash to every pound of grease. Twelve pounds of each will make a +barrel of soft soap. + +Crack the potash in small pieces. Put in a large kettle with two gallons +of water, and boil till dissolved. Then add the grease, and, when melted, +pour all into a tight barrel. Fill it up with boiling water, and for a +week, stir daily for five or ten minutes. It will gradually become like +jelly. + + +TO PURIFY SINKS AND DRAINS. + +To one pound of common copperas add one gallon of boiling water, and use +when dissolved. The copperas is poison, and must never be left unmarked. + + +FURNITURE POLISH. + +Mix two tablespoonfuls of sweet or linseed oil with a tablespoonful of +turpentine, and rub on with a piece of flannel, polishing with a dry +piece. + + +TO KEEP EGGS. + +Be sure that the eggs are fresh. Place them points down in a stone jar or +tight firkin, and pour over them the following brine, which is enough for +a hundred and fifty:-- + +One pint of slacked lime, one pint of salt, two ounces of cream of tartar, +and four gallons of water. Boil all together for ten minutes; skim, and, +when cold, pour it over the eggs. They can also be kept in salt tightly +packed, but not as well. + + +TO MAKE HARD WATER SOFT. + +Dissolve in one gallon of boiling water a pound and a quarter of washing +soda, and a quarter of a pound of borax. In washing clothes allow quarter +of a cup of this to every gallon of water. + + +TO TAKE OUT FRUIT-STAINS. + +Stretch the stained part tightly over a bowl, and pour on boiling water +till it is free from spot. + + +TO TAKE OUT INK-SPOTS. + +Ink spilled upon carpets or on woolen table-covers can be taken out, if +washed at once in cold water. Change the water often, and continue till +the stain is gone. + + +MIXED SPICES. + +Three heaping tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon, one heaping one each of +clove and mace, and one even one of allspice. Mix thoroughly, and use for +dark cakes and for puddings. + + +SPICE SALT. + +Four ounces of salt; one of black pepper; one each of thyme, sweet +marjoram, and summer savory; half an ounce each of clove, allspice, and +mace; quarter of an ounce of cayenne pepper; one ounce of celery salt. Mix +all together; sift three times, and keep closely covered. Half an ounce +will flavor a stuffing for roast meat; and a tablespoonful is nice in many +soups and stews. + + +TO WASH GREASY TIN AND IRON. + +Pour a few drops of ammonia into every greasy roasting-pan, first +half-filling with warm water. A bottle of ammonia should always stand near +the sink for such uses. Never allow dirty pots or pans to stand and dry; +for it doubles the labor of washing. Pour in water, and use ammonia, and +the work is half done. + + +TO CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER. + +Scrape a little rotten-stone fine, and make into a paste with sweet oil. +Rub on with a piece of flannel; let it dry, and polish with a +chamois-skin. Copper is cleaned either with vinegar and salt mixed in +equal parts, or with oxalic acid. The latter is a deadly poison, and must +be treated accordingly. + + +WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. + +As many families have no scales for weighing, a table of measures is given +which can be used instead. Weighing is always best, but not always +convenient. The cup used is the ordinary coffee or kitchen cup, holding +half a pint. A set of tin measures, from a gill up to a quart, is very +useful in all cooking operations. + +One quart of sifted flour is one pound. + +One pint of granulated sugar is one pound. + +Two cups of butter packed are one pound. + +Ten eggs are one pound. + +Five cupfuls of sifted flour are one pound. + +A wine-glassful is half a gill. + +Eight even tablespoonfuls are a gill. + +Four even saltspoonfuls make a teaspoonful. + +A saltspoonful is a good measure of salt for all custards, puddings, +blancmanges, &c. + +One teaspoonful of soda to a quart of flour. + +Two teaspoonfuls of soda to one of cream of tartar. + +The teaspoonful given in all these receipts is just rounded full, not +heaped. + +Two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder to one quart of flour. + +One cup of sweet or sour milk as wetting for one quart of flour. + + +TIME TABLE FOR ROASTED MEATS. + +Beef, from six to eight pounds, one hour and a half, or twelve minutes to +the pound. + +Mutton, ten minutes to the pound for rare; fifteen for well-done. + +Lamb, a very little less according to age and size of roast. + +Veal, twenty minutes to a pound. + +Pork, half an hour to a pound. + +Turkey of eight or ten pounds weight, not less than three hours. + +Goose of seven or eight pounds, two hours. + +Chickens, from an hour to an hour and a half. + +Tame ducks, one hour. + +Game duck, from thirty to forty minutes. + +Partridges, grouse, &c., half an hour. + +Pigeons, half an hour. + +Small birds, twenty minutes. + + +TIME TABLE FOR BOILED MEATS. + +Beef _à la mode_, eight pounds, four hours. + +Corned beef, eight pounds, four hours. + +Corned or smoked tongue, eight pounds, four hours. + +Ham, eight or ten pounds, five hours. + +Mutton, twenty minutes to a pound. + +Veal, half an hour to a pound. + +Turkey, ten pounds, three hours. + +Chickens, one hour and a half. + +Old fowls, two or three hours. + + +TIME TABLE FOR FISH. + +Halibut and salmon, fifteen minutes to a pound. + +Blue-fish, bass, &c., ten minutes to a pound. + +Fresh cod, six minutes to a pound. + +Baked halibut, twelve minutes to a pound. + +Baked blue-fish, &c., ten minutes to a pound. + +Trout, pickerel, &c., eight minutes to a pound. + + +TIME TABLE FOR VEGETABLES. + +_Half an hour_,--Pease, potatoes, asparagus, rice, corn, summer squash, +canned tomatoes, macaroni. + +_Three-quarters of an hour_,--Young beets, young turnips, young carrots +and parsnips, baked potatoes (sweet and Irish), boiled sweet potatoes, +onions, canned corn, tomatoes. + +_One hour_,--New cabbage, shelled and string beans, spinach and greens, +cauliflower, oyster-plant, and winter squash. + +_Two hours_,--Winter carrots, parsnips, turnips, cabbage, and onions. + +_Three to eight hours_,--Old beets. + + +TIME TABLE FOR BREAD, CAKES, ETC. + +Bread,--large loaves, an hour; small loaves, from half to three-quarters +of an hour. + +Biscuits and rolls, in from fifteen to twenty minutes. + +Brown bread, steamed, three hours. + +Loaves of sponge cake, forty-five minutes; if thin, about thirty. + +Loaves of richer cake, from forty-five minutes to an hour. + +Fruit cake, about two hours, if in two or three pound loaves. + +Small thin cakes and cookies, from ten to fifteen minutes. Watch +carefully. + +Baked puddings, rice, &c., one hour. + +Boiled puddings, three hours. + +Custards to be watched and tested after the first fifteen minutes. + +Batter puddings baked, forty-five minutes. + +Pie-crust, about half an hour. + + +DEVILED HAM. + +For this purpose, use either the knuckle or any odds and ends remaining. +Cut off all dark or hard bits, and see that at least a quarter of the +amount is fat. Chop as finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. +For a pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows:-- + +One even tablespoonful of sugar; one even teaspoonful of ground mustard; +one saltspoonful of Cayenne pepper; one teacupful of good vinegar. Mix the +sugar, mustard, and pepper thoroughly, and add the vinegar little by +little. Stir it into the chopped ham, and pack it in small molds, if it is +to be served as a lunch or supper relish, turning out upon a small platter +and garnishing with parsley. + +For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin; butter lightly, and spread with +about a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. The root of a boiled tongue can be +prepared in the same way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in little +jars, and pour melted butter over the top. + +This receipt should have had place under "Meats," but was overlooked. + + + + +LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED FOR SUCCESSFUL WORKING. + + +TIN WARE. + +One boiler for clothes, holding eight or ten gallons.--Two dish-pans,--one +large, one medium-sized.--One two-quart covered tin pail.--One four-quart +covered tin pail.--Two thick tin four-quart saucepans.--Two two-quart +saucepans.--Four measures, from one gill to a quart, and broad and low, +rather than high.--Three tin scoops of different sizes for flour, sugar, +&c.--Two pint and two half-pint molds for jellies.--Two quart molds.--One +skimmer with long handle.--One large and one small dipper.--Four +bread-pans, 10x4x4.--Three jelly-cake tins.--Six pie-plates.--Two long +biscuit-tins.--One coffee-pot.--One colander.--One large grater.--One +nutmeg-grater.--Two wire sieves; one ten inches across, the other four, +and with tin sides.--One flour-sifter.--One fine jelly-strainer.--One +frying-basket.--One Dover egg-beater.--One wire egg-beater.--One +apple-corer.--One pancake-turner.--One set of spice-boxes, or a +spice-caster.--One pepper-box.--One flour-dredger.--One +sugar-dredger.--One biscuit-cutter.--One potato-cutter.--A dozen +muffin-rings.--Small tins for little cakes.--One muffin-pan.--One double +milk-boiler, the inside boiler holding two quarts.--One fish-boiler, which +can also be used for hams.--One deep bread-pan; a dish-pan is good, but +must be kept for this.--One steamer.--One pudding-boiler.--One +cake-box.--Six teaspoons. + + +WOODEN WARE. + +One bread-board.--One rolling-pin.--One meat-board.--One wash-board.--One +lemon-squeezer.--One potato-masher.--Two large spoons.--One small +one.--Nest of wooden boxes for rice, tapioca, &c.--Wooden pails for graham +and corn meal.--Chopping-tray.--Water-pail.--Scrubbing-pail.--Wooden cover +for flour-barrel.--One board for cutting bread.--One partitioned +knife-box. + + +IRON WARE. + +One pair of scales.--One two-gallon pot with steamer to fit.--One +three-gallon soup-pot with close-fitting cover.--One three-gallon +porcelain-lined kettle, to be kept only for preserving.--One four or six +quart one, for apple sauce, &c.--One tea-kettle.--One large and one small +frying-pan.--Two Russia or sheet iron dripping-pans; one large enough for +a large turkey.--Two gem-pans with deep cups.--Two long-handled +spoons.--Two spoons with shorter handles.--One large meat-fork.--One +meat-saw.--One cleaver.--One griddle.--One wire broiler.--One +toaster.--One waffle-iron.--One can-opener.--Three pairs of common knives +and forks.--One small Scotch or frying kettle.--One chopping-knife.--One +meat-knife.--One bread-knife.--One set of skewers.--Trussing-needles. + + +EARTHEN AND STONE WARE. + +Two large mixing-bowls, holding eight or ten quarts each.--One eight-quart +lip-bowl for cake.--Half a dozen quart bowls.--Half a dozen pint +bowls.--Three or four deep plates for putting away cold food.--Six +baking-dishes of different sizes, round or oval.--Two quart +blancmange-molds.--Two or three pitchers.--Two stone crocks, holding a +gallon each.--Two, holding two quarts each.--One bean-pot for baked +beans.--One dozen Mason's jars for holding yeast, and many things used in +a store closet.--Stone jugs for vinegar and molasses.--Two or three large +covered stone jars for pickles.--One deep one for bread.--One earthen +teapot.--One dozen pop-over cups.--One dozen custard-cups.--Measuring-cup. + + +MISCELLANEOUS. + +Scrubbing and blacking brushes.--Soap-dish.--Knife-board.-- +Vegetable-cutters.--Pastry-brush.--Egg-basket.--Market-basket.-- +Broom.--Brush.--Dust-pan.--Floor and sink cloths.--Whisk-broom.-- +Four roller-towels.--Twelve dish-towels.--Dishes enough for setting +servants' table, heavy stone-china being best. + + + + +HINTS TO TEACHERS. + + +In beginning with a class of school-girls from fourteen to eighteen, it is +best to let the first two or three lessons be demonstration lessons; that +is, to have all operations performed by the teacher. An assistant may be +chosen from the class, who can help in any required way. The receipts for +the day should first be read, and copied plainly by all the pupils. Each +process must be fully explained, and be as daintily and deftly performed +as possible. Not more than six dishes at the most can be prepared in one +lesson, and four will be the usual number. Two lessons a week, from two to +three hours each, are all for which the regular school-course gives time; +and there should be not more than one day between, as many dishes can not +be completed in one lesson. + +After yeast and bread have been once made by the teacher, bread should be +the first item in every lesson thereafter, and the class made a +practice-class. Each pupil should make bread twice,--once under the +teacher's supervision, and at least once entirely alone. In a large class +this may occupy the entire time in the school-year. Let the most important +operations be thoroughly learned, even if there is little variety. To make +and bake all forms of bread, to broil a steak, boil a potato, and make +good tea and coffee, may not seem sufficient result for a year's work; +but the girl who can do this has mastered the principles of cooking, and +is abundantly able to go on alone. + +The fire should be made and cared for by each in turn, and the best modes +of washing dishes, and keeping the room and stores in the best order, be +part of each lesson. + +Once a week let a topic be given out, on which all are to write, any +ingredient in cooking being chosen, and the papers read and marked in +order of merit. + +Once a month examine on these topics, and on what has been learned. Let +digestion and forms of food be well understood, and spare no pains to make +the lesson attractive and stimulating to interest. + +In classes for ladies the work is usually done entirely by the teacher, +and at least five dishes are prepared. A large class can thus be taught; +but the results will never be as satisfactory as in a practice-class, +though the latter is of course much more troublesome to the teacher, as it +requires far more patience and tact to watch and direct the imperfect +doing of a thing than to do it one's self. + +A class lunch or supper is a pleasant way of demonstrating what progress +has been made; and, in such entertainment, do not aim at great variety, +but insist upon the perfect preparation of a few things. To lay and +decorate a table prettily is an accomplishment, and each classroom should +have enough china and glass to admit of this. + +To indicate the method which the writer has found practicable and useful, +a course of twelve lessons is given, embracing the essential operations; +and beyond this the teacher can construct her own bills of fare. When the +making of bread begins, it will be found that not more than two or three +other things can be made at one lesson. Let one of these be a simple cake +or pudding for the benefit of the class, whose interest is wonderfully +stimulated by something good to eat. + +Large white aprons and small half-sleeves to draw on over the +dress-sleeves are essential, and must be insisted upon. A little cap of +Swiss muslin is pretty, and finishes the uniform well, but is not a +necessity. + +For the rest each teacher must judge for herself, only remembering to +_demand the most absolute neatness_ in all work done, and to _give the +most perfect patience_ no matter how stupid the pupil may seem. + + +TWELVE LESSONS. + + +LESSON FIRST. + +To make stock. +Beef rolls. +Apple float. +Boiled custard. + +LESSON SECOND. + +To clarify fat or drippings. +Clear soup. +Beef soup with vegetables. +To make caramel. +Cream cakes. + +LESSON THIRD. + +Beef _à la mode_. +To boil potatoes. +Mashed potatoes. +Potato snow. +Potato croquettes. +Yeast. +Wine jelly. + +LESSON FOURTH. + +Bread. +Plain rolls. +Beef hash with potatoes. +Beef croquettes. +Coddled apples. + +LESSON FIFTH. + +Graham bread. +Rye bread. +To broil beef steak. +To boil macaroni. +Macaroni baked with cheese. +To make a _roux_. +Baked custard. + +LESSON SIXTH. + +Parker-House rolls. +Steamed brown bread. +Purée of salmon. +Croquettes of salmon. +Corn-starch pudding. + +LESSON SEVENTH. + +Baked fish. +To devil ham. +Stuffed eggs. +Plain omelet. +Saratoga potatoes. +To use stale bread. +Bread pudding and plain sauce. + +LESSON EIGHTH. + +Irish stew. +Boiled cabbage. +Baked cabbage. +Lyonnaise potatoes. +Whipped cream. +Sponge cake. +Charlotte Russe. + +LESSON NINTH. + +Bean soup. +To dress and truss a chicken. +Chicken fricassee,--brown. +Chicken pie. +Meringues, plain and with jelly. + +LESSON TENTH. + +Oyster soup. +Oyster scallop. +Fried oysters. +Pie-crust. +Oyster patties. +Lemon and apple pie. + +LESSON ELEVENTH. + +To bone a turkey or chicken. +Force-meat. +Boiled parsnips. +To boil rice. +Parsnip fritters. + +LESSON TWELFTH. + +To decorate boned turkey. +To roast beef. +To bake potatoes with beef. +Gravy. +Rice croquettes. +Chicken or turkey croquettes. + + +LIST OF TOPICS FOR TWENTY LESSONS. + +Wheat and corn. +Making of flour and meal. +Tea. +Coffee. +Chocolate and cocoa. +Tapioca and sago. +Rice. +Salt. +Pepper. +Cloves and allspice. +Cinnamon, nutmegs, and mace. +Ginger and mustard. +Olive-oil. +Raisins and currants. +Macaroni and vermicelli. +Potatoes. +Sweet potatoes. +Yeast and bread. +Butter. +Fats. + + +LIST OF AUTHORITIES TO WHICH THE TEACHER MAY REFER. + +Draper's Physiology. +Dalton's Physiology. +Carpenter's Physiology. +Foster's Physiology. +Youman's Chemistry. +Johnston's Chemistry of Common Life. +Lewes's Physiology of Common Life. +Gray's How Plants Grow. +Rand's Vegetable Kingdom. +Brillât Savarin's Art of Dining. +Brillât Savarin's Physiologie du Goût. +The Cook's Oracle, Dr. Kitchener. +Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Chambers. +Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Pary. +Food and Digestion, by Dr. Brinton. +Food, by Dr. Letheby. +Cook-books at discretion. + + + + +QUESTIONS FOR FINAL EXAMINATION AT END OF YEAR. + +1. How is soup-stock made? + +2. How is white soup made? + +3. What are purées? + +4. How is clear soup made? + +5. How is caramel made, and what are its uses? + +6. How is meat jelly made and colored? + +7. How is meat boiled, roasted, and broiled? + +8. How can cold meat be used? + +9. How is poultry roasted and broiled? + +10. How are potatoes cooked? + +11. How are dried leguminous vegetables cooked? + +12. How is rice boiled dry? + +13. How is macaroni boiled? + +14. How are white and brown sauces made? + +15. Give plain salad-dressing and mayonnaise. + +16. How are beef tea and chicken broth made? + +17. Give receipts for plain omelet and omelette soufflée. + +18. How are bread, biscuit, and rolls made? + +19. How is pie-crust made? + +20. Rule for puff paste? + +21. How should you furnish a kitchen? + +22. What are the best kinds of cooking utensils? + + +END. + + + + +BIBLIOGRAPHY. + + +THE CHEMISTRY OF COOKERY. By W. Mattieu Williams. + +THE PERFECT WAY IN DIET. By Dr. Anna Kingsford. + +FOODS. By Edward Smith. + +FRUITS, AND HOW TO USE THEM. By Hester M. Poole. + +EATING FOR STRENGTH. Dr. M.L. Holbrook. + +FRUIT AND BREAD. By Gustav Schlickeyesen. Translated by Dr. M.L. Holbrook. + +FOOD AND FEEDING. By Sir Henry Thompson. + +MRS. LINCOLN'S BOSTON COOK BOOK. What to Do and What not to Do in Cooking. + +JUST HOW. By Mrs. A.D.T. Whitney. + +MRS. RORER'S PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK. + +PRACTICAL COOKING AND DINNER-GIVING. Mrs. Henderson. + +IN THE KITCHEN. By Mrs. E.S. Miller. + +GOOD LIVING. A Practical Cook Book for Town and Country. By Sara Van Buren +Brugière. + +FRENCH DISHES FOR AMERICAN TABLES. By Pierre Caron. + +CUISINE CLASSIQUE. Urbain-Dubois. + +CARÈME. + +GOUFFÉ. + +SOYER. + +DIET FOR THE SICK. A Treatise on the Values of Foods, their Application to +Special Conditions of Health and Disease, and on the Best Methods of their +Preparation. By Mrs. Mary E. Henderson. + +Cookery-Books at discretion. + + + + +INDEX. + + +PART II. + + +Apple Dumplings, 239. + float, 246. + water, 269. + +Artichokes, 206. + +Asparagus, 205. + +Authorities for reference, 286. + + +Beans, string, 203. + shelled, 203. + +Beef _a la mode_, 147. + corned, 149. + frizzled, 190. + juice, 266. + rolls, 153. + sandwich, 267. + steak, 158. + steak for sick, 268. + tea or essence, 262. + tea for convalescents, 262. + Virginia fashion, 148. + +Beets, 199. + +Bibliography, 288. + +Birds, 164. + +Biscuit, baking-powder, 216. + beaten, 216. + soda and cream of tartar, 215. + +Blancmange, 246. + +Boiled meats and stews, 146 + +Bread-making and flour, 208. + +Bread, 210. + brown, 214. + cake, 227. + corn, 218. + graham, 212. + pancakes, 221. + rye, 213. + sour, 220. + to use dry, 220. + to freshen stale, 221. + +Breakfast puffs or popovers, 217. + +Brown-bread brewis, 220. + +Broth, mutton, 125, 263. + chicken, 126. + beef, tapioca, and egg, 263. + +Buns, plain, 228, + + +Cake making, 221. + +Cake, apple, 220. + bread, 227. + cup, 224. + Dover, 226. + fruit, 225. + gold, 227. + huckleberry, 219. + pound, 225. + rolled jelly, 224. + sponge, 223. + white or silver, 226. + +Cakes, cream, 230. + filling for, 231. + drop, 230. + buckwheat, 219. + +Cabbage, 201. + +Candy, cream, 259. + +Candy, molasses, 260. + nut, 260. + +Chocolate creams, 260. + caramels, 260 + +Cocoanut drops, 260. + +Canning, General Rules for, 253. + tomatoes, 253. + +Caramel, 131. + +Carrots, 200. + +Carrots _sautés_, 200. + +Casserole of rice and meat, 169. + +Cauliflower, 201. + +Cheese fondu, 184. + soufflé, 184. + +Charlotte Russe, 247. + +Cheese straws, 237. + +Chicken broth, 126. + broth for sick, 263. + croquettes, Philadelphia, 168. + croquettes, 167. + fricassee, brown, 165. + fricassee, white, 166. + fried, 165. + jellied, 173. + panada, 263. + pie, 160. + roasted or boiled, 164. + salad, 179. + +Chocolate, 196. + +Cocoa, 196. + +Coffee, 194. + crust, 266. + rice, 267. + +Copper, to clean, 272. + +Corn, green, 204. + fritters, 204. + pudding, 204. + +Cream, Bavarian, 247. + fried, 249. + fruit, 248. + ice, with cream, 250. + ice, with eggs, 250. + to freeze, 249. + Spanish, 247. + strawberry, 248. + whipped, 247. + +Crisped crackers, 220. + +Croquettes, chicken, 167. + potato, 198. + rice, 207. + +Crushed wheat, boiled, 185. + +Curries, 153. + +Custard, baked, 245. + boiled, 245. + pie, 236. + + +Doughnuts, 228. + +Dressing, boiled for cold slaw, 179. + for poultry, 162. + without oil, 179. + plain salad, 177. + +Drop cakes, 230. + +Duck, roast, 164. + + +Egg-nog, 264. +Egg-plant, 204. + baked, 205. + fritters, 204. + +Eggs, baked, 181. + boiled, 180. + poached, 181. + scrambled, 181. + stuffed, 182. + to keep, 271. + +Examination questions, 287. + + +Fish, 131. + baked, 133. + balls, 188. + boiled, 134. + broiled, 135. + chowder, 140. + fried, 136. + hash, 189. + potted, 139. +salt cod, boiled, 188. +salt cod, with cream, 139. + spiced, 139. + stewed, 137. + with cream, 189. + +Flour browned for soup, 130. + prepared, 267. + +Freezing ices and creams, 249. + +Fritters, clam, 143. + oyster, 143. + peach, 249. + +Fruits, candied, 256. + jellied, 256. + +Fruit-stains, to take out, 271. + +Fruit cream, 248. + +Furniture polish, 270. + + +Gingerbread, 229. + +Ginger snaps, 229. + +Goose, roasted, 164. + +Gruel, corn meal or Indian, 264. + oatmeal, 264. + tapioca, 269. + + +Ham, boiled, 150. + deviled, 170. + fried, 160. + +Hash, meat, 191. + +Hasty pudding, 186. + +Herb teas, 267. + +Herring, roe, 189. + +Hints to teachers, 280. + +Hoe-cake, 218. + +Hominy cakes, 186. + coarse, 185. + fine, 186. + +Huckleberry cake, 219. + +Ink-spots, to take out, 271. + +Iron or tin, to wash, 272. +Italia's Pride, 169. + + +Jams, 254. + +Jelly and ice, 266. + arrow-root, 265. + rice, Dr. Gaunt's, 265. + chicken, 263. + currant, 255. + fruit, 256. + lemon, 251. + rice, 265. + tapioca, 268. + wine, 251. + +Jumbles, 230. + + +List of utensils required, 277. + +Lobster, boiled, 143. + curried, 144. + + +Macaroni, 207. + with cheese, 208. + +Mackerel, salt, 189. + +Marmalade, 254. + +Marmalade, orange, 255. + +Mayonnaise, 178. + of salmon, 180. + +Meats, 144. + roasted, 154. + broiled and fried, 158. + +Meat, cold, to warm, 161. + +Meringues, 231. + +Mince-meat, for pies, 237. + +Muffins, graham, 213. + rye, 213. + +Mush, 186. + +Mutton, boiled, 149. + broth, 125. + broth for sick, 263. + chops, 268. + leg of, stuffed, 155. + roasted, 155. + + +Oatmeal, boiled, 185. + +Omelet, plain, 182. + baked, 183. + +Omelette soufflée, 248. + +Onions, boiled, 201. + +Oyster or clam fritters, 143. + +Oyster-plant, 200. + +Oysters, fried, 141. + for pie or patties, 142. + scalloped, 141. + smothered, 143. + spiced or pickled, 142. + stewed, 141. + +Panada, 266. + +Parsnips, 199. + fritters, 199. + +Pastry and pies, 232. + +Patties, 233. + +Pease, 202. + field, 202. + +Pickles, cucumber, 257. + ripe cucumber, 258. + melon-rind, 258. + sweet; peaches, &c, 258, + +Pie, cherry or berry, 236. + custard, 236. + dried-apple, 234. + grandmother's apple-pie, 234. + lemon, 235. + squash or pumpkin, 236. + sweet potato, or pudding, 235. + +Plain pie-crust, 232. + +Pork and beans, 157. + roasted, 157. + steak, 160. + +Potato croquettes, 198. + snow, 198. + +Potatoes, baked, 198. + baked with beef, 198. + boiled, 197. + Lyonnaise, 187. + mashed, 198. + Saratoga, 188. + +Potatoes, stewed, 187. + sweet, 199. + what to do with cold, 187. + +Poultry, to clean, 161. + dressing for, 162. + +Porridge, milk, 264. + +Preserves, 254. + +Pudding, any-day plum, 240. + batter, 240. + bread, 241. + bread-and-apple, 242. + bread-and-butter, 241. + bird's-nest, 242. + corn-starch, 243. + cabinet, 244. + corn-meal or Indian, 245. + English plum, 239. + gelatine, 244. + minute, 243. + plain rice, 243. + Sunder land, 241. + tapioca, 242. + tapioca cream, 243. + tipsy, 246. + +Puff paste, 233. + +Purées, 128. + +Rammekins, 237. + +Rice, boiled, 207. + croquettes, 207. + water, 265. + parched, 267. + +Rolls, plain, 214. + Parker-House, 215, + +Roux, to make, 174. + +Salads, 173. + +Salmi of duck or game, 169. + +Sauces, 173. + +Sauce, apple, 176. + bread, 174. + celery, 175 + cranberry, 175. + foaming, 176. + fruit, 177. + hard, 177. + mayonnaise, 178. + mint, 175. + molasses, 176. + plain pudding, 176. + +Spanish tomato, 178. + +Sausage, fried, 190. + +Short-cake, 217. + +Sinks and drains, to purify, 270. + +Soft soap, 270. + +Soup, amber or clear, 123. + beef, with vegetables, 122. + clam, 127. + mock turtle, 125. + onion, 130. + oyster, 127. + pea, 129. + tomato, without meat, 126. + tomato, hasty, 126. + turtle-bean, 129. + white, 124. + +Spanish tomato sauce, 178. + +Spinach, 205. + +Spice salt, 272. + +Spices, mixed, 271. + +Stew, Brunswick, 154. + brown, 152. + Irish, 151. + white, 152. + +Stock and seasoning, 119. + +Squash, winter, 202. + summer, 202. + +Succotash, 203. + + +Tea, 194. + +Time table for roasted meats, 273. + for boiled meats, 274. + for fish, 274. + for vegetables, 274. + bread, cake, &c., 275. + +Toast, dry or buttered, 192. + for sick, 266. + milk, 193, 266, + water, 193, 265. + +Topics for twenty lessons, 285. + +Tomato catchup, 259. + chutney, 257. + +Tomatoes, baked, 206. + canned, 253. + stewed, 206. + fried, 206. + boiled, 207. + +Tongue, boiled, 150. + deviled, 170. + +Tripe, 161. + +Turkey, boiled, 167. + boned, 171. + roasted, 163. + +Turnips, 200. + +Twelve lessons, 282. + + +Veal, 156. + cutlets, 159. + loaf, 191. + minced, 192. + +Venison, roast, 157. + + +Wafers, 216. + +Waffles, 216. + rice or hominy, 217. + +Water, apple, 269. + toast, 266. + hard, to make soft, 271. + ices, 250. + +Weights and measures, 272. + +Wine whey, 264. + +Yeast, 209. + + + + +SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL. + +_16mo. Cloth. Price, $1.00._ + +Besides being equal to Mrs. Campbell's best work in the past, it is +strikingly original in presenting the ethics of the body as imperiously +claiming recognition in the radical cure of inebriety. It forces attention +to the physical and spiritual value of foods, and weaves precedent and +precept into one of the most beguiling stories of recent date. + + It is the gospel of good food, with the added influence of fresh air, + sunlight, cleanliness, and physical exercise that occupy profitably + the attention of Helen Campbell. Martha is a baby when the story + begins, and a child not yet in her teens when the narrative comes to + an end, but she has a salutary power over many lives. Her father is a + wise country physician, who makes his chaise, in his daily progress + about the hills, serve as his little daughter's cradle and + kindergarten. When she gets old enough to understand he expounds to + her his views of the sins committed against hygiene, and his lessons + sink into an appreciative mind. When he encounters particularly hard + cases she applies his principles with unfailing logic, and is able to + suggest helpful means of cure. The old doctor is delightfully + sagacious in demonstrating how the confirmed pie-eater marries the tea + inebriate, with the result in doughnut-devouring, dyspeptic, and + consumptive offspring. "What did they die of?" asked little Martha, in + the village graveyard; and her father answers solemnly, + "Intemperance." So Martha declares that she will be a "food doctor," + and later on she helps her father in saving several victims of strong + drink. The book is one that should find hosts of earnest readers, for + its admonitions are sadly needed, not in the country alone, but in the + city, where, if better ideas of diet prevail, people have yet as a + rule a long way to go before they attain the path of wisdom. Meanwhile + it remains true, as Mrs. Campbell makes Dr Scarborough declare, that + the cabbage soup and black bread of the poorest French peasants are + really better suited to the sustenance of healthy life than the + "messes" that pass for food in many parts of rural New England.--_The + Beacon._ + +_Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +Publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +ROGER BERKELEY'S PROBATION. + +A Story. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL, + +_Author of "Prisoners of Poverty," "Mrs. Herndon's Income," "Miss +Melinda's Opportunity," "The What-to-do Club," etc._ + +16mo, cloth, price, $1.00; paper, 50 cents. + + This story is on the scale of a cabinet picture. It presents + interesting figures, natural situations, and warm colors. Written in a + quiet key, it is yet moving, and the letter from Bolton describing the + fortunate sale of Roger's painting of "The Factory Bell" sends a tear + of sympathetic joy to the reader's eye. Roger Berkeley was a young + American art student in Paris, called home by the mortal sickness of + his mother, and detained at home by the spendthriftness of his father + and the embarrassment that had overtaken the family affairs through + the latter cause. A concealed mortgage on the old homestead, the + mysterious disappearance of a package of bonds intended for Roger's + student use, and the paralytic incapacity of the father to give the + information which his conscience prompted him to give, have a share in + the development of the story. Roger is obliged for the time to abandon + his art work, and takes a situation in a mill; and this trying + diversion from his purpose is his "probation." How he profits by this + loss is shown in the result. The mill-life gives Mrs. Campbell + opportunity to express herself characteristically in behalf of + down-trodden "labor." The whole story is simple, natural, sweet, and + tender; and the figures of Connie, poor little cripple, and Miss + Medora Flint, angular and snappish domestic, lend picturesqueness to + its group of characters.--_Literary World_. + +_Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +Publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +MISS MELINDA'S OPPORTUNITY. + +A STORY. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL, + +AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," "PRISONERS OF +POVERTY." + +16mo. Cloth, price, $1.00; paper covers, 50 cents. + + "Mrs. Helen Campbell has written 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity' with a + definite purpose in view, and this purpose will reveal itself to the + eyes of all of its philanthropic readers. The true aim of the story is + to make life more real and pleasant to the young girls who spend the + greater part of the day toiling in the busy stores of New York. Just + as in the 'What-to-do Club' the social level of village life was + lifted several grades higher, so are the little friendly circles of + shop-girls made to enlarge and form clubs in 'Miss Melinda's + Opportunity.'"--_Boston Herald._ + + "'Miss Melinda's Opportunity,' a story by Helen Campbell, is in a + somewhat lighter vein than are the earlier books of this clever + author; but it is none the less interesting and none the less + realistic. The plot is unpretentious, and deals with the simplest and + most conventional of themes; but the character-drawing is uncommonly + strong, especially that of Miss Melinda, which is a remarkably + vigorous and interesting transcript from real life, and highly + finished to the slightest details. There is much quiet humor in the + book, and it is handled with skill and reserve. Those who have been + attracted to Mrs. Campbell's other works will welcome the latest of + them with pleasure and satisfaction."--_Saturday Gazette._ + + "The best book that Helen Campbell has yet produced is her latest + story, 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity,' which is especially strong in + character-drawing, and its life sketches are realistic and full of + vigor, with a rich vein of humor running through them. Miss Melinda is + a dear lady of middle life, who has finally found her opportunity to + do a great amount of good with her ample pecuniary means by helping + those who have the disposition to help themselves. The story of how + some bright and energetic girls who had gone to New York to earn their + living put a portion of their earnings into a common treasury, and + provided themselves with a comfortable home and good fare for a very + small sum per week, is not only of lively interest, but furnishes + hints for other girls in similar circumstances that may prove of great + value. An unpretentious but well-sustained plot runs through the book, + with a happy ending, in which Miss Melinda figures as the angel that + she is."--_Home Journal._ + +_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB + +A STORY FOR GIRLS + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL. + +16mo. Cloth. Price $1.50. + + "'The What-to-do Club' is an unpretending story. It introduces us to a + dozen or more village girls of varying ranks. One has had superior + opportunities; another exceptional training; two or three have been + 'away to school;' some are farmers' daughters; there is a teacher, two + or three poor self-supporters,--in fact, about such an assemblage as + any town between New York and Chicago might give us. But while there + is a large enough company to furnish a delightful coterie, there is + absolutely no social life among them.... Town and country need more + improving, enthusiastic work to redeem them from barrenness and + indolence. Our girls need a chance to do independent work, to study + practical business, to fill their minds with other thoughts than the + petty doings of neighbors. A What-to-do Club is one step toward higher + village life. It is one step toward disinfecting a neighborhood of the + poisonous gossip which floats like a pestilence around localities + which ought to furnish the most desirable homes in our + country.'"--_The Chautauquan._ + + "'The What-to-do Club' is a delightful story for girls, especially for + New England girls, by Helen Campbell. The heroine of the story is + Sybil Waite, the beautiful, resolute, and devoted daughter of a + broken-down but highly educated Vermont lawyer. The story shows how + much it is possible for a well-trained and determined young woman to + accomplish when she sets out to earn her own living, or help others. + Sybil begins with odd jobs of carpentering, and becomes an artist so + woodwork. She is first jeered at, then admired, respected, and finally + loved by a worthy man. The book closes pleasantly with John claiming + Sybil as his own. The labors of Sybil and her friends and of the New + Jersey 'Busy Bodies,' which are said to be actual facts, ought to + encourage many young women to more successful competition in the + battles of life.'"--_Golden Rule._ + + "In the form of a story, this book suggests ways in which young women + may make money at home, with practical directions for so doing. + Stories with a moral are not usually interesting, but this one is an + exception to the rule. The narrative is lively, the incidents probable + and amusing, the characters well-drawn, and the dialects various and + characteristic. Mrs. Campbell is a natural storyteller, and has the + gift of making a tale interesting. Even the recipes for pickles and + preserves, evaporating fruits, raising poultry, and keeping bees, are + made poetic and invested with a certain ideal glamour, and we are + thrilled and absorbed by an array of figures of receipts and + expenditures, equally with the changeful incidents of flirtation, + courtship, and matrimony. Fun and pathos, sense and sentiment, are + mingled throughout, and the combination has resulted in one of the + brightest stories of the season."--_Woman's Journal._ + +_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, by publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME. + +A NOVEL. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL. + +AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB." + +One volume. 16mo. Cloth. $1.50. + + "Confirmed novel-readers who have regarded fiction as created for + amusement and luxury alone, lay down this book with a new and serious + purpose in life. The social scientist reads it, and finds the solution + of many a tangled problem; the philanthropist finds in it direction + and counsel. A novel written with a purpose, of which never for an + instant does the author lose sight, it is yet absorbing in its + interest. It reveals the narrow motives and the intrinsic selfishness + of certain grades of social life; the corruption of business methods; + the 'false, fairy gold,' of fashionable charities, and 'advanced' + thought. Margaret Wentworth is a typical New England girl, reflective, + absorbed, full of passionate and repressed intensity under a quiet and + apparently cold exterior. The events that group themselves about her + life are the natural result of such a character brought into contact + with real life. The book cannot be too widely read."--_Boston + Traveller._ + + "If the 'What-to-do Club' was clever, this is decidedly more so. It is + a powerful story, and is evidently written in some degree, we cannot + quite say how great a degree, from fact. The personages of the story + are very well drawn,--indeed, 'Amanda Briggs' is as good as anything + American fiction has produced. We fancy we could pencil on the margin + the real names of at least half the characters. It is a book for the + wealthy to read that they may know something that is required of them, + because it does not ignore the difficulties in their way, and + especially does not overlook the differences which social standing + puts between class and class. It is a deeply interesting story + considered as mere fiction, one of the best which has lately appeared. + We hope the authoress will go on in a path where she has shown herself + so capable."--_The Churchman._ + + "In Mrs. Campbell's novel we have a work that is not to be judged by + ordinary standards. The story holds the reader's interest by its + realistic pictures of the local life around us, by its constant and + progressive action, and by the striking dramatic quality of scenes and + incidents, described in a style clear, connected, and harmonious. The + novel-reader who is not taken up and made to share the author's + enthusiasm before getting half-way through the book must possess a + taste satiated and depraved by indulgence in exciting and sensational + fiction. The earnestness of the author's presentation of essentially + great purposes lends intensity to her narrative. Succeeding as she + does in impressing us strongly with her convictions, there is nothing + of dogmatism in their preaching. But the suggestiveness of every + chapter is backed by pictures of real life."--_New York World._ + +_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +PRISONERS OF POVERTY. + +WOMEN WAGE-WORKERS: THEIR TRADES AND THEIR LIVES. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL, + +AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," "MISS MELINDA'S +OPPORTUNITY," ETC. + +16mo. Cloth. $1.00. Paper, 50 cents. + + The author writes earnestly and warmly, but without prejudice, and her + volume is an eloquent plea for the amelioration of the evils with + which she deals. In the present importance into which the labor + question generally has loomed, this volume is a timely and valuable + contribution to its literature, and merits wide reading and careful + thought.--_Saturday Evening Gazette._ + + She has given us a most effective picture of the condition of New York + working-women, because she has brought to the study of the subject not + only great care but uncommon aptitude. She has made a close personal + investigation, extending apparently over a long time; she has had the + penetration to search many queer and dark corners which are not often + thought of by similar explorers; and we suspect that, unlike too many + philanthropists, she has the faculty of winning confidence and + extracting the truth. She is sympathetic, but not a sentimentalist; + she appreciates exactness in facts and figures; she can see both sides + of a question, and she has abundant common sense.--_New York Tribune._ + + Helen Campbell's "Prisoners of Poverty" is a striking example of the + trite phrase that "truth is stranger than fiction." It is a series of + pictures of the lives of women wage-workers in New York, based on the + minutest personal inquiry and observation. No work of fiction has ever + presented more startling pictures, and, indeed, if they occurred in a + novel would at once be stamped as a figment of the brain.... + Altogether, Mrs. Campbell's book is a notable contribution to the + labor literature of the day, and will undoubtedly enlist sympathy for + the cause of the oppressed working-women whose stories do their own + pleading.--_Springfield Union._ + + It is good to see a new book by Helen Campbell. She has written + several for the cause of working-women, and now comes her latest and + best work, called "Prisoners of Poverty," on women wage-workers and + their lives. It is compiled from a series of papers written for the + Sunday edition of a New York paper. The author is well qualified to + write on these topics, having personally investigated the horrible + situation of a vast army of working-women in New York,--a reflection + of the same conditions that exist in all large cities. + + It is glad tidings to hear that at last a voice is raised for the + woman side of these great labor questions that are seething below the + surface calm of society. And it is well that one so eloquent and + sympathetic as Helen Campbell has spoken in behalf of the victims and + against the horrors, the injustices, and the crimes that have forced + them into conditions of living--if it can be called living--that are + worse than death. It is painful to read of these terrors that exist so + near our doors, but none the less necessary, for no person of mind or + heart can thrust this knowledge aside. It is the first step towards a + solution of the labor complications, some of which have assumed foul + shapes and colossal proportions, through ignorance, weakness, and + wickedness.--_Hartford Times._ + +_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes for e-book: + +In this book, spelling is inconsistent, but is generally left as found in +the original scans used for transcription. Some of the most common +inconsistencies are noted below. If you are using this book for research, +please verify any spelling or punctuation with another source. + +Spelling variants: + omelet(te), omlet + souflé(e) + Gouffé(e) + cocoanut, cocoa-nut + dishcloth, dish-cloth + forcemeat, force-meat + oilcloth, oil-cloth + popovers, pop-overs + schoolgirls, school-girls + storeroom, store-room + underdone, under-done + underwear, under-wear + +Obvious typos corrected: + identital for identical + cacoa-nut for cocoa-nut + BOILED for BROILED + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Easiest Way in Housekeeping and +Cooking, by Helen Campbell + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EASIEST WAY IN *** + +***** This file should be named 15360-8.txt or 15360-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/3/6/15360/ + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Easiest Way in Housekeeping and Cooking + Adapted to Domestic Use or Study in Classes + +Author: Helen Campbell + +Release Date: March 14, 2005 [EBook #15360] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EASIEST WAY IN *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<hr style="width: 95%;" /> +<h1>THE +EASIEST WAY +IN +HOUSEKEEPING AND COOKING.</h1> + +<h2>Adapted to Domestic Use or Study in Classes</h2> +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>HELEN CAMPBELL,</h2> + +<p class="center">AUTHOR OF "IN FOREIGN KITCHENS," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," "PRISONERS +OF POVERTY,", "SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA +SCARBOROUGH," "WOMEN WAGE-EARNERS," ETC., ETC.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p class="center">"If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere well<br /> +It were done quickly."</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p class="center">BOSTON:<br /> +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY,<br /> +1903. +</p> + + + +<p class="center"><i>Copyright, 1893,</i><br /> +BY ROBERTS BROTHERS.</p> + +<p class="center">University Press:<br /> +JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A. +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3>A Book for Agnes L.V.W.</h3> + +<h3>AND THE SOUTHERN GIRLS WHO STUDIED +WITH HER.</h3> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION.</h2> + + +<p>The little book now revised and sent out with some +slight additions, remains substantially the same as +when first issued in 1880. In the midst of always increasing +cookery-books, it has had a firm constituency of +friends, especially in the South, where its necessity was +first made plain. To enlarge it in any marked degree +would violate the original plan, for which the critic will +please read the pages headed "Introductory," where he +or she will find full explanation of the growth and +purpose of the book. Whoever desires more receipts +and more elaborate forms of preparation must look for +their sources in the bibliography at the end, since their +introduction in these pages would practically nullify the +title, proved true by years of testing at the hands of +inexperienced housekeepers, whose warm words have +long been very pleasant to the author of "The Easiest +Way."</p> + +<p>NEW YORK, June, 1893.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + + +<h3>PART FIRST.</h3> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td align='right'> </td><td align='left'><a href="#Introductory">INTRODUCTORY</a></td><td align='left'>5</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>I.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_I">THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT</a></td><td align='left'>11</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>II.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_II">THE HOUSE: ITS VENTILATION</a></td><td align='left'>19</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>III.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_III">DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY</a></td><td align='left'>27</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IV.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">THE DAY'S WORK</a></td><td align='left'>35</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>V.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_V">FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH</a></td><td align='left'>45</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VI.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">WASHING-DAY AND CLEANING IN GENERAL</a></td><td align='left'>54</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VII.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION</a></td><td align='left'>68</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>VIII.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">FOOD AND ITS LAWS</a></td><td align='left'>73</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>IX.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH</a></td><td align='left'>80</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>X.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_X">THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD</a></td><td align='left'>90</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XI.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD</a></td><td align='left'>100</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>XII.</td><td align='left'><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES</a></td><td align='left'>110</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<h3>PART SECOND.</h3> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Second Part"> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#STOCK_AND_SEASONING">STOCK AND SEASONING</a></td><td align='left'>119</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SOUPS">SOUPS</a></td><td align='left'>122</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#FISH">FISH</a></td><td align='left'>131</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#MEATS">MEATS</a></td><td align='left'>144</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#POULTRY">POULTRY</a></td><td align='left'>161</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SAUCES_AND_SALADS">SAUCES AND SALADS</a></td><td align='left'>173</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#EGGS_CHEESE_AND_BREAKFAST_DISHES">EGGS AND BREAKFAST DISHES</a></td><td align='left'>180</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#TEA_COFFEE_ETC">TEA, COFFEE, &C</a></td><td align='left'>193</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#VEGETABLES">VEGETABLES</a></td><td align='left'>197</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#BREAD_AND_BREAKFAST_CAKES">BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES</a></td><td align='left'>208</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CAKE">CAKE</a></td><td align='left'>221</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#PASTRY_AND_PIES">PASTRY AND PIES</a></td><td align='left'>232</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#PUDDINGS_BOILED_AND_BAKED">PUDDINGS, BOILED AND BAKED</a></td><td align='left'>238</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CUSTARDS_CREAMS_JELLIES_ETC">CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, &C</a></td><td align='left'>245</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CANNING_AND_PRESERVING">CANNING AND PRESERVING</a></td><td align='left'>252</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#PICKLES_AND_CATCHUPS">PICKLES AND CATCHUPS</a></td><td align='left'>257</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#CANDIES">CANDIES</a></td><td align='left'>259</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#SICK_ROOM_COOKERY">SICK-ROOM COOKERY</a></td><td align='left'>261</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#HOUSEHOLD_HINTS">HOUSEHOLD HINTS</a></td><td align='left'>270</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#HINTS_TO_TEACHERS">HINTS TO TEACHERS</a></td><td align='left'>280</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#TWELVE_LESSONS">LESSONS FOR PRACTICE CLASS</a></td><td align='left'>282</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#LIST_OF_TOPICS_FOR_TWENTY_LESSONS">TWENTY TOPICS FOR CLASS USE</a></td><td align='left'>285</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#LIST_OF_AUTHORITIES_TO_WHICH_THE_TEACHER_MAY_REFER">LIST OF AUTHORITIES REFERRED TO</a></td><td align='left'>286</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#QUESTIONS_FOR_FINAL_EXAMINATION_AT_END_OF">EXAMINATION QUESTIONS</a></td><td align='left'>287</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#BIBLIOGRAPHY">BIBLIOGRAPHY</a></td><td align='left'>288</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a></td><td align='left'>289</td></tr> +</table></div> + + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Introductory" id="Introductory" /><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5"></a><i>Introductory.</i></h2> + + +<p>That room or toleration for another "cook-book" can +exist in the public mind, will be denied at once, with +all the vigor to be expected from a people overrun with +cook-books, and only anxious to relegate the majority of +them to their proper place as trunk-linings and kindling-material. +The minority, admirable in plan and execution, +and elaborate enough to serve all republican purposes, are +surely sufficient for all the needs that have been or may +be. With Mrs. Cornelius and Miss Parloa, Marion Harland +and Mrs. Whitney, and innumerable other trustworthy +authorities, for all every-day purposes, and Mrs. +Henderson for such festivity as we may at times desire to +make, another word is not only superfluous but absurd; in +fact, an outrage on common sense, not for one instant to +be justified.</p> + +<p>Such was my own attitude and such my language hardly +a year ago; yet that short space of time has shown me, +that, whether the public admit the claim, or no, one more +cook-book MUST BE. And this is why:—</p> + +<p>A year of somewhat exceptional experience—that involved +in building up several cooking-schools in a new +<a name="Page_6" id="Page_6"></a>locality, demanding the most thorough and minute system +to assure their success and permanence—showed the inadequacies +of any existing hand-books, and the necessities +to be met in making a new one. Thus the present book +has a twofold character, and represents, not only the ordinary +receipt or cook book, usable in any part of the country +and covering all ordinary household needs, but covers +the questions naturally arising in every lesson given, and +ending in statements of the most necessary points in household +science. There are large books designed to cover +this ground, and excellent of their kind, but so cumbrous +in form and execution as to daunt the average reader.</p> + +<p>Miss Corson's "Cooking-School Text-Book" commended +itself for its admirable plainness and fullness of +detail, but was almost at once found impracticable as a +system for my purposes; her dishes usually requiring the +choicest that the best city market could afford, and taking +for granted also a taste for French flavorings not yet common +outside of our large cities, and to no great extent +within them. To utilize to the best advantage the food-resources +of whatever spot one might be in, to give information +on a hundred points suggested by each lesson, yet +having no place in the ordinary cook-book, in short, <i>to teach +household science as well as cooking</i>, became my year's +work; and it is that year's work which is incorporated in +these pages. Beginning with Raleigh, N.C., and lessons +given in a large school there, it included also a seven-months' +course at the Deaf and Dumb Institute, and regular +classes for ladies. Straight through, in those classes, it +became my business to say, "This is no infallible system, +warranted to give the whole art of cooking in twelve lessons. +All I can do for you is to lay down clearly certain fixed +<a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>principles; to show you how to economize thoroughly, yet +get a better result than by the expenditure of perhaps much +more material. Before our course ends, you will have had +performed before you every essential operation in cooking, +and will know, so far as I can make you know, prices, +qualities, constituents, and physiological effects of every +type of food. Beyond this, the work lies in your own +hands."</p> + +<p>Armed with manuals,—American, English, French,—bent +upon systematizing the subject, yet finding none +entirely adequate, gradually, and in spite of all effort to +the contrary, I found that my teaching rested more and +more on my own personal experience as a housekeeper, +both at the South and at the North. The mass of material +in many books was found confusing and paralyzing, +choice seeming impossible when a dozen methods were +given. And for the large proportion of receipts, directions +were so vague that only a trained housekeeper +could be certain of the order of combination, or results +when combined. So from the crowd of authorities was +gradually eliminated a foundation for work; and on that +foundation has risen a structure designed to serve two +ends.</p> + +<p>For the young housekeeper, beginning with little or no +knowledge, but eager to do and know the right thing, not +alone for kitchen but for the home as a whole, the list +of topics touched upon in Part I. became essential. +That much of the knowledge compressed there should +have been gained at home, is at once admitted: but, unfortunately, +few homes give it; and the aim has been to +cover the ground concisely yet clearly and attractively. +As to Part II., it does not profess to be the whole +<a name="Page_8" id="Page_8"></a>art of cooking, but merely the line of receipts most +needed in the average family, North or South. Each receipt +has been tested personally by the writer, often many +times; and each one is given so minutely that failure is +well-nigh impossible, if the directions are intelligently followed. +A few distinctively Southern dishes are included, +but the ground covered has drawn from all sources; the +series of excellent and elaborate manuals by well-known +authors having contributed here and there, but the majority +of rules being, as before said, the result of years of +personal experiment, or drawn from old family receipt-books.</p> + +<p>To facilitate the work of the teacher, however, a scheme +of lessons is given at the end, covering all that can well +be taught in the ordinary school year: each lesson is given +with page references to the receipts employed, while a +shorter and more compact course is outlined for the use +of classes for ladies. A list of topics is also given for +school use; it having been found to add greatly to the interest +of the course to write each week the story of some +ingredient in the lesson for the day, while a set of questions, +to be used at periodical intervals, fixes details, and +insures a certain knowledge of what progress has been +made. The course covers the chemistry and physiology +of food, as well as an outline of household science in general, +and may serve as a text-book wherever such study +is introduced. It is hoped that this presentation of the +subject will lessen the labor necessary in this new field, +though no text-book can fully take the place of personal +enthusiastic work.</p> + +<p>That training is imperatively demanded for rich and +poor alike, is now unquestioned; but the mere taking a +<a name="Page_9" id="Page_9"></a>course of cooking-lessons alone does not meet the need +in full. The present book aims to fill a place hitherto unoccupied; +and precisely the line of work indicated there +has been found the only practical method in a year's +successful organization of schools at various points. +Whether used at home with growing girls, in cooking-clubs, +in schools, or in private classes, it is hoped that +the system outlined and the authorities referred to will +stimulate interest, and open up a new field of work to +many who have doubted if the food question had any interest +beyond the day's need, and who have failed to see +that nothing ministering to the best life and thought of +this wonderful human body could ever by any chance be +rightfully called "common or unclean." We are but on +the threshold of the new science. If these pages make +the way even a little plainer, the author will have accomplished +her full purpose, and will know that in spite of +appearances there is "room for one more."</p> + +<p>HELEN CAMPBELL.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10"></a><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11"></a><i>THE EASIEST WAY.</i></h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I" />CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<h2>THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT.</h2> + + +<p>From the beginning it must be understood that what is +written here applies chiefly to country homes. The +general principles laid down are applicable with equal +force to town or city life; but as a people we dwell mostly +in the country, and, even in villages or small towns, each +house is likely to have its own portion of land about it, +and to look toward all points of the compass, instead of +being limited to two, as in city blocks. Of the comparative +advantages or disadvantages of city or country life, +there is no need to speak here. Our business is simply +to give such details as may apply to both, but chiefly to +the owners of moderate incomes, or salaried people, whose +expenditure must always be somewhat limited. With the +exterior of such homes, women at present have very little +to do; and the interior also is thus far much in the hands +of architects, who decide for general prettiness of effect, +rather than for the most convenient arrangement of space. +The young bride, planning a home, is resolved upon a bay-window, +as large a parlor as possible, and an effective +spare-room; but, having in most cases no personal knowl<a name="Page_12" id="Page_12"></a>edge +of work, does not consider whether kitchen and dining-room +are conveniently planned, or not, and whether +the arrangement of pantries and closets is such that both +rooms must be crossed a hundred times a day, when a +little foresight might have reduced the number certainly +by one-half, perhaps more.</p> + +<p>Inconvenience can, in most cases, be remedied; but unhealthfulness +or unwholesomeness of location, very seldom: +and therefore, in the beginning, I write that ignorance +is small excuse for error, and that every one able to +read at all, or use common-sense about any detail of life, +is able to form a judgment of what is healthful or unhealthful. +If no books are at hand, consult the best +physician near, and have his verdict as to the character of +the spot in which more or less of your life in this world +will be spent, and which has the power to affect not only +your mental and bodily health, but that of your children. +Because your fathers and mothers have been neglectful of +these considerations, is no reason why you should continue +in ignorance; and the first duty in making a home is to +consider earnestly and intelligently certain points.</p> + +<p>Four essentials are to be thought of in the choice of +any home; and their neglect, and the ignorance which is +the foundation of this neglect, are the secret of not only +the chronic ill-health supposed to be a necessity of the +American organization, but of many of the epidemics and +mysterious diseases classed under the head of "visitations +of Providence."</p> + +<p>These essentials are: a wholesome situation, good ventilation, +good drainage, and a dry cellar. Rich or poor, +high or low, if one of these be disregarded, the result will +tell, either on your own health or on that of your fam<a name="Page_13" id="Page_13"></a>ily. +Whether palace or hut, brown-stone front or simple +wooden cottage, the law is the same. As a rule, the +ordinary town or village is built upon low land, because it +is easier to obtain a water-supply from wells and springs. +In such a case, even where the climate itself may be +tolerably healthy, the drainage from the hills at hand, or +the nearness of swamps and marshes produced by the +same cause, makes a dry cellar an impossibility; and this +shut-in and poisonous moisture makes malaria inevitable. +The dwellers on low lands are the pill and patent-medicine +takers; and no civilized country swallows the amount +of tonics and bitters consumed by our own.</p> + +<p>If possible, let the house be on a hill, or at least a rise +of ground, to secure the thorough draining-away of all +sewage and waste water. Even in a swampy and malarious +country, such a location will insure all the health +possible in such a region, if the other conditions mentioned +are faithfully attended to.</p> + +<p>Let the living-rooms and bedrooms, as far as may be, +have full sunshine during a part of each day; and reserve +the north side of the house for store-rooms, refrigerator, +and the rooms seldom occupied. Do not allow trees to +stand so near as to shut out air or sunlight; but see that, +while near enough for beauty and for shade, they do not +constantly shed moisture, and make twilight in your +rooms even at mid-day. Sunshine is the enemy of disease, +which thrives in darkness and shadow. Consumption +or scrofulous disease is almost inevitable in the house +shut in by trees, whose blinds are tightly closed lest some +ray of sunshine fade the carpets; and over and over again +it has been proved that the first conditions of health are, +abundant supply of pure air, and free admission of sun<a name="Page_14" id="Page_14"></a>light +to every nook and cranny. Even with imperfect or +improper food, these two allies are strong enough to carry +the day for health; and, when the three work in harmony, +the best life is at once assured.</p> + +<p>If the house must be on the lowlands, seek a sandy or +gravelly soil; and avoid those built over clay beds, or +even where clay bottom is found under the sand or loam. +In the last case, if drainage is understood, pipes may be +so arranged as to secure against any standing water; but, +unless this is done, the clammy moisture on walls, and +the chill in every closed room, are sufficient indication +that the conditions for disease are ripe or ripening. The +only course in such case, after seeking proper drainage, +is, first, abundant sunlight, and, second, open fires, which +will act not only as drying agents, but as ventilators and +purifiers. Aim to have at least one open fire in the +house. It is not an extravagance, but an essential, and +economy may better come in at some other place.</p> + +<p>Having settled these points as far as possible,—the +question of water-supply and ventilation being left to +another chapter,—it is to be remembered that the house +is not merely a place to be made pleasant for one's friends. +They form only a small portion of the daily life; and the +first consideration should be: Is it so planned that the +necessary and inevitable work of the day can be accomplished +with the least expenditure of force? North and +South, the kitchen is often the least-considered room of +the house; and, so long as the necessary meals are served +up, the difficulties that may have hedged about such serving +are never counted. At the South it is doubly so, and +necessarily; old conditions having made much consideration +of convenience for servants an unthought-of thing.<a name="Page_15" id="Page_15"></a> +With a throng of unemployed women and children, the +question could only be, how to secure some small portion +of work for each one; and in such case, the greater the +inconveniences, the more chance for such employment. +Water could well be half a mile distant, when a dozen +little darkies had nothing to do but form a running line +between house and spring; and so with wood and kindling +and all household necessities.</p> + +<p>To-day, with the old service done away with once for +all, and with a set of new conditions governing every +form of work, the Southern woman faces difficulties to +which her Northern or Western sister is an utter stranger; +faces them often with a patience and dignity beyond all +praise, but still with a hopelessness of better things, the +necessary fruit of ignorance. Old things are passed +away, and the new order is yet too unfamiliar for rules to +have formulated and settled in any routine of action. +While there is, at the North, more intuitive and inherited +sense of how things should be done, there is on many +points an almost equal ignorance, more especially among +the cultivated classes, who, more than at any period of +woman's history, are at the mercy of their servants. +Every science is learned but domestic science. The +schools ignore it; and, indeed, in the rush toward an +early graduation, there is small room for it.</p> + +<p>"She can learn at home," say the mothers. "She +will take to it when her time comes, just as a duck takes +to water," add the fathers; and the matter is thus dismissed +as settled.</p> + +<p>In the mean time the "she" referred to—the average +daughter of average parents in both city and country—neither +"learns at home," nor "takes to it naturally,"<a name="Page_16" id="Page_16"></a> +save in exceptional cases; and the reason for this is found +in the love, which, like much of the love given, is really +only a higher form of selfishness. The busy mother of a +family, who has fought her own way to fairly successful +administration, longs to spare her daughters the petty +cares, the anxious planning, that have helped to eat out +her own youth; and so the young girl enters married life +with a vague sense of the dinners that must be, and a +general belief that somehow or other they come of themselves. +And so with all household labor. That to perform +it successfully and skillfully, demands not only training, +but the best powers one can bring to bear upon its +accomplishment, seldom enters the mind; and the student, +who has ended her course of chemistry or physiology +enthusiastically, never dreams of applying either to every-day +life.</p> + +<p>This may seem a digression; and yet, in the very outset, +it is necessary to place this work upon the right footing, +and to impress with all possible earnestness the fact, that +Household Science holds every other science in tribute, +and that only that home which starts with this admission +and builds upon the best foundation the best that thought +can furnish, has any right to the name of "home." The +swarms of drunkards, of idiots, of insane, of deaf and +dumb, owe their existence to an ignorance of the laws of +right living, which is simply criminal, and for which we +must be judged; and no word can be too earnest, which +opens the young girl's eyes to the fact that in her hands +lie not alone her own or her husband's future, but the +future of the nation. It is hard to see beyond one's own +circle; but if light is sought for, and there is steady +resolve and patient effort to do the best for one's individ<a name="Page_17" id="Page_17"></a>ual +self, and those nearest one, it will be found that the +shadow passes, and that progress is an appreciable thing.</p> + +<p>Begin in your own home. Study to make it not only +beautiful, but perfectly appointed. If your own hands +must do the work, learn every method of economizing +time and strength. If you have servants, whether one or +more, let the same laws rule. It is not easy, I admit; +no good thing is: but there is infinite reward for every +effort. Let no failure discourage, but let each one be only +a fresh round in the ladder all must climb who would do +worthy work; and be sure that the end will reward all +pain, all self-sacrifice, and make you truly the mistresses +of the home for which every woman naturally and rightfully +hopes, but which is never truly hers till every shade +of detail in its administration has been mastered.</p> + +<p>The house, then, is the first element of home to be considered +and studied; and we have settled certain points +as to location and arrangement. This is no hand-book +of plans for houses, that ground being thoroughly covered +in various books,—the titles of two or three of +which are given in a list of reference-books at the end. +But, whether you build or buy, see to it that your kitchens +and working-rooms are well lighted, well aired, and of +good size, and that in the arrangement of the kitchen +especially, the utmost convenience becomes the chief end. +Let sink, pantries, stove or range, and working-space for +all operations in cooking, be close at hand. The difference +between a pantry at the opposite end of the room, +and one opening close to the sink, for instance, may seem +a small matter; but when it comes to walking across the +room with every dish that is washed, the steps soon count +up as miles, and in making even a loaf of bread, the time +<a name="Page_18" id="Page_18"></a>and strength expended in gathering materials together +would go far toward the thorough kneading, which, when +added to the previous exertion, makes the whole operation, +which might have been only a pleasure, a burden +and an annoyance.</p> + +<p>Let, then, stove, fuel, water, work-table, and pantries +be at the same end of the kitchen, and within a few steps +of one another, and it will be found that while the general +labor of each day must always be the same, the time required +for its accomplishment will be far less, under these +favorable conditions. The successful workman,—the +type-setter, the cabinet-maker, or carpenter,—whose art +lies in the rapid combination of materials, arranges his +materials and tools so as to be used with the fewest possible +movements; and the difference between a skilled and +unskilled workman is not so much the rate of speed in +movement, as in the ability to make each motion tell. +The kitchen is the housekeeper's workshop; and, in the +chapter on <i>House-work</i>, some further details as to methods +and arrangements will be given.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II" /><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<h2>THE HOUSE: VENTILATION.</h2> + + +<p>Having settled the four requisites in any home, and +suggested the points to be made in regard to the +first one,—that of wholesome situation,—<i>Ventilation</i> is +next in order. Theoretically, each one of us who has +studied either natural philosophy or physiology will state +at once, with more or less glibness, the facts as to the +atmosphere, its qualities, and the amount of air needed +by each individual; practically nullifying such statement +by going to bed in a room with closed windows and doors, +or sitting calmly in church or public hall, breathing over +and over again the air ejected from the lungs all about,—practice +as cleanly and wholesome as partaking of food +chewed over and over by an indiscriminate crowd.</p> + +<p>Now, as to find the Reason Why of all statements and +operations is our first consideration, the familiar ground +must be traversed again, and the properties and constituents +of air find place here. It is an old story, and, like +other old stories accepted by the multitude, has become +almost of no effect; passive acceptance mentally, absolute +rejection physically, seeming to be the portion of much of +the gospel of health. "Cleanliness is next to godliness," +is almost an axiom. I am disposed to amend it, and +assert that cleanliness <i>is</i> godliness, or a form of godliness.<a name="Page_20" id="Page_20"></a> +At any rate, the man or woman who demands cleanliness +without and within, this cleanliness meaning pure +air, pure water, pure food, must of necessity have a +stronger body and therefore a clearer mind (both being +nearer what God meant for body and mind) than the one +who has cared little for law, and so lived oblivious to the +consequences of breaking it.</p> + +<p>Ventilation, seemingly the simplest and easiest of +things to be accomplished, has thus far apparently defied +architects and engineers. Congress has spent a million +in trying to give fresh air to the Senate and Representative +Chambers, and will probably spend another before +that is accomplished. In capitols, churches, and public +halls of every sort, the same story holds. Women faint, +men in courts of justice fall in apoplectic fits, or become +victims of new and mysterious diseases, simply from the +want of pure air. A constant slow murder goes on in +nurseries and schoolrooms; and white-faced, nerveless +children grow into white-faced and nerveless men and +women, as the price of this violated law.</p> + +<p>What is this air, seemingly so hard to secure, so hard +to hold as part of our daily life, without which we can not +live, and which we yet contentedly poison nine times out +of ten?</p> + +<p>Oxygen, nitrogen, carbonic acid, and watery vapor; the +last two being a small portion of the bulk, oxygen and +nitrogen making up four-fifths. Small as the proportion +of oxygen seems, an increase of but one-fifth more would +be destruction. It is the life-giver, but undiluted would be +the life-destroyer; and the three-fifths of nitrogen act as +its diluent. No other element possesses the same power. +Fires and light-giving combustion could not exist an +<a name="Page_21" id="Page_21"></a>instant without oxygen. Its office seems that of universal +destruction. By its action decay begins in meat or vegetables +and fruits; and it is for this reason, that, to preserve +them, all oxygen must be driven out by bringing them to +the boiling point, and sealing them up in jars to which no +air can find entrance. With only undiluted oxygen to +breathe, the tissues would dry and shrivel, fuel burn with +a fury none could withstand, and every operation of nature +be conducted with such energy as soon to exhaust and +destroy all power. But "a mixture of the fiery oxygen +and inert nitrogen gives us the golden mean. The +oxygen now quietly burns the fuel in our stoves, and keeps +us warm; combines with the oil in our lamps, and gives us +light; corrodes our bodies, and gives us strength; cleanses +the air, and keeps it fresh and invigorating; sweetens foul +water, and makes it wholesome; works all around us and +within us a constant miracle, yet with such delicacy and +quietness, we never perceive or think of it, until we see it +with the eye of science."</p> + +<p>Food and air are the two means by which bodies live. +In the full-grown man, whose weight will average about +one hundred and fifty-four pounds, one hundred and eleven +pounds is oxygen drawn from the air we breathe. Only +when food has been dissolved in the stomach, absorbed +at last into the blood, and by means of circulation brought +into contact with the oxygen of the air taken into +our lungs, can it begin to really feed and nourish the +body; so that the lungs may, after all, be regarded as +the true stomach, the other being not much more than the +food-receptacle.</p> + +<p>Take these lungs, made up within of branching tubes, +these in turn formed by myriads of air-cells, and each air-<a name="Page_22" id="Page_22"></a>cell +owning its network of minute cells called <i>capillaries</i>. +To every air-cell is given a blood-vessel bringing blood +from the heart, which finds its way through every capillary +till it reaches another blood-vessel that carries it back to +the heart. It leaves the heart charged with carbonic acid +and watery vapor. It returns, if pure air has met it in +the lung, with all corruption destroyed, a dancing particle +of life. But to be life, and not slow death, thirty-three +hogsheads of air must pass daily into the lungs, and +twenty-eight pounds of blood journey from heart to lungs +and back again three times in each hour. It rests wholly +with ourselves, whether this wonderful tide, ebbing and +flowing with every breath, shall exchange its poisonous +and clogging carbonic acid and watery vapor for life-giving +oxygen, or retain it to weigh down and debilitate every +nerve in the body.</p> + +<p>With every thought and feeling some actual particles +of brain and nerve are dissolved, and sent floating on +this crimson current. With every motion of a muscle, +whether great or small, with every process that can take +place in the body, this ceaseless change of particles is +going on. Wherever oxygen finds admission, its union +with carbon to form carbonic acid, or with hydrogen to +form water, produces heat. The waste of the body is +literally burned up by the oxygen; and it is this burning +which means the warmth of a living body, its absence +giving the stony cold of the dead. "Who shall deliver me +from the body of this death?" may well be the literal question +for each day of our lives; and "pure air" alone can +secure genuine life. Breathing bad air reduces all the processes +of the body, lessens vitality; and thus, one in poor +health will suffer more from bad air than those who have +<a name="Page_23" id="Page_23"></a>become thoroughly accustomed to it. If weakened vitality +were the only result, it would not be so serious a matter; +but scrofula is soon fixed upon such constitutions, beginning +with its milder form as in consumption, but ending in +the absolute rottenness of bone and tissue. The invalid +may live in the healthiest climate, pass hours each day in +the open air, and yet undo or neutralize much of the good +of this by sleeping in an unventilated room at night. Diseased +joints, horrible affections of the eye or ear or skin, +are inevitable. The greatest living authorities on lung-diseases +pronounce deficient ventilation the chief cause +of consumption, and more fatal <i>than all other causes put +together</i>; and, even where food and clothing are both unwholesome, +free air has been found able to counteract +their effect.</p> + +<p>In the country the balance ordained in nature has its +compensating power. The poisonous carbonic acid thrown +off by lungs and body is absorbed by vegetation whose +food it is, and which in every waving leaf or blade of +grass returns to us the oxygen we demand. Shut in a +close room all day, or even in a tolerably ventilated one, +there may be no sense of closeness; but go to the open +air for a moment, and, if the nose has not been hopelessly +ruined by want of education, it will tell unerringly the +degree of oxygen wanting and required.</p> + +<p>It is ordinarily supposed that carbonic-acid gas, being +heavier, sinks to the bottom of the room, and that thus +trundle-beds, for instance, are especially unwholesome. +This would be so, were the gas pure. As a matter of +fact, however, being warmed in the body, and thus made +lighter, it rises into the common air, so that usually more +will be found at the top than at the bottom of a room.<a name="Page_24" id="Page_24"></a> +This gas is, however, not the sole cause of disease. From +both lungs and skin, matter is constantly thrown off, and +floats in the form of germs in all impure air. To a person +who by long confinement to close rooms has become +so sensitive that any sudden current of air gives a cold, +ventilation seems an impossibility and a cruelty; and the +problem becomes: How to admit pure air throughout the +house, and yet avoid currents and draughts. "Night-air" +is even more dreaded than the confined air of rooms; yet, +as the only air to be had at night must come under this +head, it is safer to breathe that than to settle upon carbonic +acid as lung-food for a third, at least, of the twenty-four +hours. As fires feed on oxygen, it follows that every +lamp, every gas-jet, every furnace, are so many appetites +satisfying themselves upon our store of food, and that, if +they are burning about us, a double amount of oxygen +must be furnished.</p> + +<p>The only mode of ventilation that will work always and +without fail is that of a warm-air flue, the upward heated +air-current of which draws off the foul gases from the +room: this, supplemented by an opening on the opposite +side of the room for the admission of pure air, will accomplish +the desired end. An open fire-place will secure +this, provided the flue is kept warm by heat from the +kitchen fire, or some other during seasons when the fire-place +is not used. But perhaps the simplest way is to +have ample openings (from eight to twelve inches square) +at the top and bottom of each room, opening into the +chimney-flue: then, even if a stove is used, the flue can +be kept heated by the extension of the stove-pipe some +distance up within the chimney, and the ascending current +of hot air will draw the foul air from the room into +<a name="Page_25" id="Page_25"></a>the flue. This, as before stated, must be completed by a +fresh-air opening into the room on another side: if no +other can be had, the top of the window may be lowered +a little. The stove-pipe <i>extension</i> within the chimney +would better be of cast-iron, as more durable than the +sheet-iron. When no fire is used in the sleeping-rooms, +the chimney-flue must be heated by pipes from the kitchen +or other fires; and, with the provision for <i>fresh</i> air never +forgotten, this simple device will invariably secure pure +and well-oxygenated air for breathing. "Fussy and expensive," +may be the comment; but the expense is less +than the average yearly doctor's bill, and the fussiness +nothing that your own hands must engage in. Only +let heads take it in, and see to it that no neglect is +allowed. In a southern climate doors and windows are +of necessity open more constantly; but at night they are +closed from the fear referred to, that night-air holds some +subtle poison. It is merely colder, and perhaps moister, +than day-air; and an extra bed-covering neutralizes this +danger. Once accustomed to sleeping with open windows, +you will find that taking cold is impossible.</p> + +<p>If custom, or great delicacy of organization, makes unusual +sensitiveness to cold, have a board the precise width +of the window, and five or six inches high. Then raise +the lower sash, putting this under it; and an upward current +of air will be created, which will in great part purify +the room.</p> + +<p>Beyond every thing, watch that no causes producing +foul air are allowed to exist for a moment. A vase of +neglected flowers will poison the air of a whole room. +In the area or cellar, a decaying head of cabbage, a basket +of refuse vegetables, a forgotten barrel of pork or beef +<a name="Page_26" id="Page_26"></a>brine, a neglected garbage pail or box, are all premiums +upon disease. Let air and sunlight search every corner +of the house. Insist upon as nearly spotless <i>cleanliness</i> +as may be, and the second prime necessity of the home +is secure.</p> + +<p>When, as it is written, man was formed from the dust +of the earth, the Lord God "breathed into his nostrils +the breath of life; and man became a <i>living soul</i>."</p> + +<p>Shut off that breath of life, or poison it as it is daily +poisoned, and not only body, but soul, dies. The child, +fresh from its long day out of doors, goes to bed quiet, +content, and happy. It wakes up a little demon, bristling +with crossness, and determined not to "be good." The +breath of life carefully shut out, death has begun its work, +and you are responsible. And the same criminal blunder +causes not only the child's suffering, but also the weakness +which makes many a delicate woman complain that +it "takes till noon to get her strength up."</p> + +<p>Open the windows. Take the portion to which you +were born, and life will grow easier.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III" /><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<h2>DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY.</h2> + + +<p>Air and sunshine having been assured for all parts of +the house in daily use, the next question must be an +unfailing and full supply of pure water. "Dig a well, or +build near a spring," say the builders; and the well is +dug, or the spring tapped, under the general supposition +that water is clean and pure, simply because it is water, +while the surroundings of either spring or well are unnoticed. +Drainage is so comparatively new a question, that +only the most enlightened portions of the country consider +its bearings; and the large majority of people all +over the land not only do not know the interests involved +in it, but would resent as a personal slight any hint that +their own water-supply might be affected by deficient +drainage.</p> + +<p>Pure water is simply oxygen and hydrogen, eight-ninths +being oxygen and but one-ninth hydrogen; the latter gas, +if pure, having, like oxygen, neither taste nor smell. +Rain-water is the purest type; and, if collected in open +vessels as it falls, is necessarily free from any possible +taint (except at the very first of a rain, when it washes +down considerable floating impurity from the atmosphere, +especially in cities). This mode being for obvious reasons +impracticable, cisterns are made, and rain conducted to +<a name="Page_28" id="Page_28"></a>them through pipes leading from the roof. The water +has thus taken up all the dust, soot, and other impurities +found upon the roof, and, unless filtered, can not be considered +desirable drink. The best cistern will include a filter +of some sort, and this is accomplished in two ways. +Either the cistern is divided into two parts, the water +being received on one side, and allowed to slowly filter +through a wall of porous brick, regarded by many as an +amply sufficient means of purification; or a more elaborate +form is used, the division in such case being into +upper and under compartments, the upper one containing +the usual filter of iron, charcoal, sponge, and gravel or +sand. If this water has a free current of air passing +over it, it will acquire more sparkle and character; but as +a rule it is flat and unpleasant in flavor, being entirely +destitute of the earthy salts and the carbonic-acid gas to +be found in the best river or spring water.</p> + +<p>Distilled water comes next in purity, and is, in fact, +identical in character with rain-water; the latter being +merely steam, condensed into rain in the great alembic of +the sky. But both have the curious property of taking up +and dissolving <i>lead</i> wherever they find it; and it is for this +reason that lead pipes as leaders from or to cisterns should +<i>never</i> be allowed, unless lined with some other metal.</p> + +<p>The most refreshing as well as most wholesome water +is river or spring water, perfectly filtered so that no possible +impurity can remain. It is then soft and clear; +has sufficient air and carbonic acid to make it refreshing, +and enough earthy salts to prevent its taking up lead, and +so becoming poisonous. River-water for daily use of +course requires a system of pipes, and in small places is +practically unavailable; so that wells are likely, in such +<a name="Page_29" id="Page_29"></a>case, to be the chief source of supply. Such water will +of course be spring-water, with the characteristics of the +soil through which it rises. If the well be shallow, and +fed by surface springs, all impurities of the soil will be +found in it; and thus to <i>dig deep</i> becomes essential, for +many reasons. Dr. Parker of England, in some papers +on practical hygiene, gives a clear and easily understood +statement of some causes affecting the purity of well-water.</p> + +<p>"A well drains an extent of ground around it, in the +shape of an inverted cone, which is in proportion to its +own depth and the looseness of the soil. In very loose +soils a well of sixty or eighty feet will drain a large area, +perhaps as much as two hundred feet in diameter, or even +more; but the exact amount is not, as far as I know, precisely +determined.</p> + +<p>"Certain trades pour their refuse water into rivers, +gas-works; slaughter-houses; tripe-houses; size, horn, +and isinglass manufactories; wash-houses, starch-works, +and calico-printers, and many others. In houses it is +astonishing how many instances occur of the water of +butts, cisterns, and tanks, getting contaminated by leaking +of pipes and other causes, such as the passage of sewer-gas +through overflow-pipes, &c.</p> + +<p>"As there is now no doubt that typhoid-fever, cholera, +and dysentery may be caused by water rendered impure +by the evacuations passed in those diseases, and as simple +diarrhoea seems also to be largely caused by animal organic +[matter in] suspension or solution, it is evident how +necessary it is to be quick-sighted in regard to the possible +impurity of water from incidental causes of this kind. +Therefore all tanks and cisterns should be inspected regu<a name="Page_30" id="Page_30"></a>larly, +and any accidental source of impurity must be looked +out for. Wells should be covered; a good coping put +round to prevent substances being washed down; the distances +from cess-pools and dung-heaps should be carefully +noted; no sewer should be allowed to pass near a well. +The same precautions should be taken with springs. In +the case of rivers, we must consider if contamination can +result from the discharge of fecal matters, trade refuse, +&c."</p> + +<p>Now, suppose all such precautions have been disregarded. +Suppose, as is most usual, that the well is dug +near the kitchen-door,—probably between kitchen and +barn; the drain, if there is a drain from the kitchen, +pouring out the dirty water of wash-day and all other +days, which sinks through the ground, and acts as feeder +to the waiting well. Suppose the manure-pile in the barnyard +also sends down its supply, and the privies contribute +theirs. The water may be unchanged in color or +odor: yet none the less you are drinking a foul and horrible +poison; slow in action, it is true, but making you +ready for diphtheria and typhoid-fever, and consumption, +and other nameless ills. It is so easy to doubt or set +aside all this, that I give one case as illustration and +warning of all the evils enumerated above.</p> + +<p>The State Board of Health for Massachusetts has long +busied itself with researches on all these points, and the +case mentioned is in one of their reports. The house described +is one in Hadley, built by a clergyman. "It was +provided with an open well and sink-drain, with its deposit-box +in close proximity thereto, affording facility to +discharge its gases in the well as the most convenient +place. The cellar was used, as country cellars commonly +<a name="Page_31" id="Page_31"></a>are, for the storage of provisions of every kind, and the +windows were never opened. The only escape for the +soil-moisture and ground-air, except that which was absorbed +by the drinking-water, was through the crevices of +the floors into the rooms above. After a few months' residence +in the house, the clergyman's wife died of fever. +He soon married again; and the second wife also died of +fever, within a year from the time of marriage. His children +were sick. He occupied the house about two years. +The wife of his successor was soon taken ill, and barely +escaped with her life. A physician then took the house. +He married, and his wife soon after died of fever. +Another physician took the house, and within a few +months came near dying of erysipelas. He deserved it. +The house, meanwhile, received no treatment; the doctors, +according to their usual wont, even in their own +families, were satisfied to deal with the consequences, and +leave the causes to do their worst.</p> + +<p>"Next after the doctors, a school-teacher took the +house, and made a few changes, for convenience apparently, +for substantially it remained the same; for he, +too, escaped as by the skin of his teeth. Finally, after +the foreclosure of many lives, the sickness and fatality of +the property became so marked, that it became unsalable. +When at last sold, every sort of prediction was made as +to the risk of occupancy; but, by a thorough attention to +sanitary conditions, no such risks have been encountered."</p> + +<p>These deaths were suicides,—ignorant ones, it is true, +not one stopping to think what causes lay at the bottom +of such "mysterious dispensations." But, just as surely +as corn gives a crop from the seed sown, so surely typhoid +<a name="Page_32" id="Page_32"></a>fever and diphtheria follow bad drainage or the drinking +of impure water.</p> + +<p>Boiling such water destroys the germs of disease; but +neither boiled water nor boiled germs are pleasant +drinking.</p> + +<p>If means are too narrow to admit of the expense attendant +upon making a drain long enough and tight enough to +carry off all refuse water to a safe distance from the house, +then adopt another plan. Remember that to throw dirty +water on the ground near a well, is as deliberate poisoning +as if you threw arsenic in the well itself. Have a +large tub or barrel standing on a wheelbarrow or small +hand-cart; and into this pour every drop of dirty water, +wheeling it away to orchard or garden, where it will enrich +the soil, which will transform it, and return it to you, not +in disease, but in fruit and vegetables. Also see that the +well has a roof, and, if possible, a lattice-work about it, +that all leaves and flying dirt may be prevented from falling +into it. You do not want your water to be a solution +or tincture of dead leaves, dead frogs and insects, or stray +mice or kittens; and this it must be, now and again, if not +covered sufficiently to exclude such chances, <i>though not +the air</i>, which must be given free access to it.</p> + +<p>As to hard and soft water, the latter is always most +desirable, as soft water extracts the flavor of tea and +coffee far better than hard, and is also better for all cooking +and washing purposes. Hard water results from a +superabundance of lime; and this lime "cakes" on the +bottom of tea-kettles, curdles soap, and clings to every +thing boiled in it, from clothes to meat and vegetables +(which last are always more tender if cooked in soft water; +though, if it be too soft, they are apt to boil to a porridge).</p> + +<p><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33"></a>Washing-soda or borax will soften hard water, and +make it better for all household purposes; but rain-water, +even if not desired for drinking, will be found better than +any softened by artificial means.</p> + +<p>If, as in many towns, the supply of drinking-water for +many families comes from the town pump or pumps, the +same principles must be attended to. A well in Golden +Square, London, was noted for its especially bright and +sparkling water, so much so that people sent from long +distances to secure it. The cholera broke out; and all +who drank from the well became its victims, though the +square seemed a healthy location. Analysis showed it to +be not only alive with a species of fungus growing in it, +but also weighted with dead organic matter from a neighboring +churchyard. Every tissue in the living bodies +which had absorbed this water was inflamed, and ready to +yield to the first epidemic; and cholera was the natural +outcome of such conditions. Knowledge should guard +against any such chances. See to it that no open cesspool +poisons either air or water about your home. Sunk +at a proper distance from the house, and connected with +it by a drain so tightly put together that none of the contents +can escape, the cesspool, which may be an elaborate, +brick-lined cistern, or merely an old hogshead thoroughly +tarred within and without, and sunk in the ground, +becomes one of the most important adjuncts of a good +garden. If, in addition to this, a pile of all the decaying +vegetable matter—leaves, weeds, &c.—is made, all +dead cats, hens, or puppies finding burial there; and the +whole closely covered with earth to absorb, as fresh earth +has the power to do, all foul gases and vapors; and if +at intervals the pile is wet through with liquid from the +<a name="Page_34" id="Page_34"></a>cesspool, the richest form of fertilizer is secured, and one +of the great agricultural duties of man fulfilled,—that of +"returning to the soil, as fertilizers, all the salts produced +by the combustion of food in the human body."</p> + +<p>Where the water-supply is brought into the house from +a common reservoir, much the same rules hold good. +We can not of course control the character of the general +supply, but we can see to it that our own water and waste +pipes are in the most perfect condition; that traps and all +the best methods of preventing the escape of sewer-gas +into our houses are provided; that stationary or "set" +basins have the plug always in them; and that every +water-closet is provided with a ventilating pipe sufficiently +high and long to insure the full escape of all gases from the +house. Simple disinfectants used from time to time—chloride +of lime and carbolic acid—will be found useful, +and the most absolute cleanliness is at all times the first +essential.</p> + +<p>With air and water at their best, the home has a reasonable +chance of escaping many of the sorrows brought by +disease or uncertain health; and, the power to work to the +best advantage being secured, we may now pass to the +forms that work must take.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV" /><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<h2>THE DAY'S WORK.</h2> + + +<p>It is safe to say that no class of women in the civilized +world is subjected to such incessant trials of temper, +and such temptation to be fretful, as the American housekeeper. +The reasons for this state of things are legion; +and, if in the beginning we take ground from which the +whole field may be clearly surveyed, we may be able to +secure a better understanding of what housekeeping +means, and to guard against some of the dangers accompanying +it.</p> + +<p>The first difficulty lies in taking for granted that successful +housekeeping is as much an instinct as that which +leads the young bird to nest-building, and that no specific +training is required. The man who undertakes a business, +passes always through some form of apprenticeship, and +must know every detail involved in the management; but +to the large proportion of women, housekeeping is a combination +of accidental forces from whose working it is +hoped breakfasts and dinners and suppers will be evolved +at regular periods, other necessities finding place where +they can. The new home, prettily furnished, seems a +lovely toy, and is surrounded by a halo, which, as facts +assert themselves, quickly fades away. Moth and rust +and dust invade the most secret recesses. Breakage and +<a name="Page_36" id="Page_36"></a>general disaster attend the progress of Bridget or Chloe. +The kitchen seems the headquarters of extraordinary +smells, and the stove an abyss in its consumption of coal +or wood. Food is wasted by bad cooking, or ignorance +as to needed amounts, or methods of using left-over portions; +and, as bills pile up, a hopeless discouragement +often settles upon both wife and husband, and reproaches +and bitterness and alienation are guests in the home, to +which they need never have come had a little knowledge +barred them out.</p> + +<p>In the beginning, then, be sure of one thing,—that all +the wisdom you have or can acquire, all the patience +and tact and self-denial you can make yours by the most +diligent effort, will be needed every day and every hour of +the day. Details are in themselves wearying, and to +most men their relation to housekeeping is unaccountable. +The day's work of a systematic housekeeper would confound +the best-trained man of business. In the woman's +hand is the key to home-happiness, but it is folly to assert +that all lies with her. Let it be felt from the beginning +that her station is a difficult one, that her duties are important, +and that judgment and skill must guide their performance; +let boys be taught the honor that lies in such +duties,—and there will be fewer heedless and unappreciative +husbands. On the other hand, let the woman remember +that the good general does not waste words on +hindrances, or leave his weak spots open to observation, +but, learning from every failure or defeat, goes on steadily +to victory. To fret will never mend a matter; and +"Study to be quiet" in thought, word, and action, is the +first law of successful housekeeping. Never under-estimate +the difficulties to be met, for this is as much an evil +<a name="Page_37" id="Page_37"></a>as over-apprehension. The best-arranged plans may be +overturned at a moment's notice. In a mixed family, +habits and pursuits differ so widely that the housekeeper +must hold herself in readiness to find her most cherished +schemes set aside. Absolute adherence to a system is +only profitable so far as the greatest comfort and well-being +of the family are affected; and, dear as a fixed +routine may be to the housekeeper's mind, it may often +well be sacrificed to the general pleasure or comfort. A +quiet, controlled mind, a soft voice, no matter what the +provocation to raise it may be, is "an excellent thing in +woman." And the certainty that, hard as such control +may be, it holds the promise of the best and fullest life +here and hereafter, is a motive strong enough, one would +think, to insure its adoption. Progress may be slow, but +the reward for every step forward is certain.</p> + +<p>We have already found that each day has its fixed routine, +and are ready now to take up the order of work, +which will be the same in degree whether one servant is +kept, or many, or none. The latter state of things will +often happen in the present uncertain character of household +service. Old family servants are becoming more and +more rare; and, unless the new generation is wisely +trained, we run the risk of being even more at their mercy +in the future than in the past.</p> + +<p>First, then, on rising in the morning, see that a full +current of air can pass through every sleeping-room; remove +all clothes from the beds, and allow them to air at +least an hour. Only in this way can we be sure that the +impurities, thrown off from even the cleanest body by the +pores during the night, are carried off. A neat housekeeper +is often tempted to make beds, or have them +<a name="Page_38" id="Page_38"></a>made, almost at once; but no practice can be more unwholesome.</p> + +<p>While beds and bedrooms are airing, breakfast is to be +made ready, the table set, and kitchen and dining-room +put in order. The kitchen-fire must first be built. If a +gas or oil stove can be used, the operations are all simpler. +If not, it is always best to have dumped the grate +the night before if coal is used, and to have laid the fire +ready for lighting. In the morning brush off all ashes, +and wipe or blacken the stove. Strong, thick gloves, and +a neat box for brushes, blacking, &c., will make this a +much less disagreeable operation than it sounds. Rinse +out the tea-kettle, fill it with fresh water, and put over to +boil. Then remove the ashes, and, if coal is used, sift +them, as cinders can be burned a large part of the time +where only a moderate fire is desired.</p> + +<p>The table can be set, and the dining or sitting room +swept, or merely brushed up and dusted, in the intervals +of getting breakfast. To have every thing clean, hot, +and not only well prepared but ready on time, is the first +law, not only for breakfast, but for every other meal.</p> + +<p>After breakfast comes the dish-washing, dreaded by all +beginners, but needlessly so. With a full supply of all +conveniences,—plenty of soap and sapolio, which is far +better and cleaner to use than either sand or ashes; +with clean, soft towels for glass and silver; a mop, the +use of which not only saves the hands but enables you to +have hotter water; and a full supply of coarser towels for +the heavier dishes,—the work can go on swiftly. Let the +dish-pan be half full of hot soap and water. <i>Wash glass +first</i>, paying no attention to the old saying that "hot +water rots glass." Be careful never to put glass into +<a name="Page_39" id="Page_39"></a>hot water, bottom first, as the sudden expansion may +crack it. Slip it in edgeways, and the finest and most +delicate cut-glass will be safe. <i>Wash silver next.</i> Hot +suds, and instant wiping on dry soft cloths, will retain the +brightness of silver, which treated in this way requires +much less polishing, and therefore lasts longer. If any +pieces require rubbing, use a little whiting made into a +paste, and put on wet. Let it dry, and then polish with a +chamois-skin. Once a month will be sufficient for rubbing +silver, if it is properly washed. <i>China comes next</i>—all +plates having been carefully scraped, and all cups +rinsed out. To fill the pan with unscraped and unrinsed +dishes, and pour half-warm water over the whole, is a +method too often adopted; and the results are found in +sticky dishes and lustreless silver. Put all china, silver, +and glass in their places as soon as washed. Then take +any tin or iron pans, wash, wipe with a dry towel, and put +near the fire to dry thoroughly. A knitting-needle or +skewer may be kept to dig out corners unreachable by +dishcloth or towel, and if perfectly dried they will remain +free from rust.</p> + +<p>The cooking-dishes, saucepans, &c., come next in order; +and here the wire dish-cloth will be found useful, as it +does not scratch, yet answers every purpose of a knife. +Every pot, kettle, and saucepan must be put into the pan +of hot water. If very greasy, it is well to allow them to +stand partly full of water in which a few drops of ammonia +have been put. The <i>outside must be washed</i> as carefully +as the inside. Till this is done, there will always be +complaint of the unpleasantness of handling cooking-utensils. +Properly done, they are as clean as the china +or glass.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40"></a>Plated knives save much work. If steel ones are used, +they must be polished after every meal. In washing them, +see that the handles are never allowed to touch the water. +Ivory discolors and cracks if wet. Bristol-brick finely +powdered is the best polisher, and, mixed with a little +water, can be applied with a large cork. A regular knife-board, +or a small board on which you can nail three strips +of wood in box form, will give you the best mode of keeping +brick and cork in place. After rubbing, wash clean, +and wipe dry.</p> + +<p>The dish-towels are the next consideration. A set +should be used but a week, and must be washed and +rinsed each day if you would not have the flavor of dried-in +dish-water left on your dishes. Dry them, if possible, +in the open air: if not, have a rack, and stand them near +the fire. On washing-days, let those that have been used +a week have a thorough boiling. The close, sour smell +that all housekeepers have noticed about dish-towels comes +from want of boiling and drying in fresh air, and is unpardonable +and unnecessary.</p> + +<p>Keep hot water constantly in your kettles or water-pots, +by always remembering to fill with cold when you take +out hot. Put away every article carefully in its place.</p> + +<p>If tables are stained, and require any scrubbing, remember +that to wash or scrub wood you must follow the grain, +as rubbing across it rubs the dirt in instead of taking it +off.</p> + +<p>The same rule applies to floors. A clean, coarse cloth, +hot suds, and a good scrubbing-brush, will simplify the +operation. Wash off the table; then dip the brush in the +suds, and scour with the grain of the wood. Finally wash +off all soapy water, and wipe dry. To save strength, the +<a name="Page_41" id="Page_41"></a>table on which dishes are washed may be covered with +kitchen oilcloth, which will merely require washing and +wiping; with an occasional scrubbing for the table below.</p> + +<p>The table must be cleaned as soon as the dishes are +washed, because if dishes stand upon tables the fragments +of food have time to harden, and the washing is made +doubly hard.</p> + +<p>Leaving the kitchen in order, the bedrooms will come +next. Turn the mattresses daily, and make the bed +smoothly and carefully. Put the under sheet with the +wrong side next the bed, and the upper one with the +marked end always at the top, to avoid the part where +the feet lie, from being reversed and so reaching the face. +The sheets should be large enough to tuck in thoroughly, +three yards long by two and a half wide being none too +large for a double bed. Pillows should be beaten and +then smoothed with the hand, and the aim be to have +an even, unwrinkled surface. As to the use of shams, +whether sheet or pillow, it is a matter of taste; but in all +cases, covered or uncovered, let the bed-linen be daintily +clean.</p> + +<p>Empty all slops, and with hot water wash out all the +bowls, pitchers, &c., using separate cloths for these purposes, +and never toilet towels. Dust the room, arrange +every thing in place, and, if in summer, close the blinds, +and darken till evening, that it may be as cool as possible.</p> + +<p>Sweeping days for bedrooms need come but once a +week, but all rooms used by many people require daily +sweeping; halls, passages, and dining and sitting rooms +coming under this head. Careful dusting daily will often +do away with the need of frequent sweeping, which wears +out carpets unnecessarily. A carpet-sweeper is a real +<a name="Page_42" id="Page_42"></a>economy, both in time and strength; but, if not obtainable, +a light broom carefully handled, not with a long stroke +which sends clouds of dust over every thing, but with a +short quick one, which only experience can give, is next +best. For a thorough sweeping, remove as many articles +from the room as possible, dusting each one thoroughly, +and cover the larger ones which must remain with old +sheets or large squares of common unbleached cotton +cloth, kept for this purpose. If the furniture is rep or +woolen of any description, dust about each button, that +no moth may find lodgment, and then cover closely. A +feather duster, long or short, as usually applied, is the +enemy of cleanliness. Its only legitimate use is for +the tops of pictures or books and ornaments; and such +dusting should be done <i>before</i> the room is swept, as well +as afterward, the first one removing the heaviest coating, +which would otherwise be distributed over the room. +For piano, and furniture of delicate woods generally, +old silk handkerchiefs make the best dusters. For all +ordinary purposes, squares of old cambric, hemmed, and +washed when necessary, will be found best. Insist upon +their being kept for this purpose, and forbid the use of +toilet towels, always a temptation to the average servant. +Remember that in dusting, the process should be a <i>wiping</i>; +not a flirting of the cloth, which simply sends the dust up +into the air to settle down again about where it was +before.</p> + +<p>If moldings and wash-boards or wainscotings are +wiped off with a damp cloth, one fruitful source of dust +will be avoided. For all intricate work like the legs of +pianos, carved backs of furniture, &c., a pair of small +bellows will be found most efficient. Brooms, dust-pan, +<a name="Page_43" id="Page_43"></a>and brushes long and short, whisk-broom, feather and +other dusters, should have one fixed place, and be returned +to it after every using. If oil-cloth is on halls or passages, +it should be washed weekly with warm milk and water, a +quart of skim-milk to a pail of water being sufficient. +Never use soap or scrubbing-brush, as they destroy both +color and texture.</p> + +<p>All brass or silver-plated work about fire-place, doorknobs, +or bath-room faucets, should be cleaned once a +week and before sweeping. For silver, rub first with +powdered whiting moistened with a little alcohol or hot +water. Let it dry on, and then polish with a dry chamois-skin. +If there is any intricate work, use a small toothbrush. +Whiting, silver-soap, cloths, chamois, and brushes +should all be kept in a box together. In another may be +the rotten-stone necessary for cleaning brass, a small +bottle of oil, and some woolen cloths. Old merino or flannel +under-wear makes excellent rubbing-cloths. Mix the +rotten-stone with enough oil to make a paste; rub on with +one cloth, and polish with another. Thick gloves can be +worn, and all staining of the hands avoided.</p> + +<p>The bedrooms and the necessary daily sweeping finished, +a look into cellar and store-rooms is next in order,—in +the former, to see that no decaying vegetable matter is +allowed to accumulate; in the latter, that bread-jar or +boxes are dry and sweet, and all stores in good condition.</p> + +<p>Where there are servants, it should be understood that +the mistress makes this daily progress. Fifteen minutes or +half an hour will often cover the time consumed; but it should +be a fixed duty never omitted. A look into the refrigerator +or meat-safe to note what is left and suggest the best +use for it; a glance at towels and dish-cloths to see that +<a name="Page_44" id="Page_44"></a>all are clean and sweet, and another under all sinks and +into each pantry,—will prevent the accumulation of bones +and stray bits of food and dirty rags, the paradise of the +cockroach, and delight of mice and rats. A servant, if +honest, will soon welcome such investigation, and respect +her mistress the more for insisting upon it, and, if not, +may better find other quarters. One strong temptation to +dishonesty is removed where such inspection is certain, and +the weekly bills will be less than in the house where matters +are left to take care of themselves.</p> + +<p>The preparation of dinner if at or near the middle of +the day, and the dish-washing which follows, end the +heaviest portion of the day's work; and the same order +must be followed. Only an outline can be given; each +family demanding variations in detail, and each head of a +family in time building up her own system. Remember, +however, that, if but one servant is kept, she can not do +every thing, and that your own brain must constantly supplement +her deficiencies, until training and long practice +have made your methods familiar. Even then she is +likely at any moment to leave, and the battle to begin +over again; and the only safeguard in time of such disaster +is personal knowledge as to simplest methods of +doing the work, and inexhaustible patience in training +the next applicant, finding comfort in the thought, that, if +your own home has lost, that of some one else is by so +much the gainer.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V" /><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<h2>FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH.</h2> + + +<p>The popular idea of a fire to cook by seems to be, a +red-hot top, the cover of every pot and saucepan dancing +over the bubbling, heaving contents, and coal packed +in even with the covers. Try to convince a servant that +the lid need not hop to assure boiling, nor the fire rise +above the fire-box, and there is a profound skepticism, +which, even if not expressed, finds vent in the same +amount of fuel and the same general course of action as +before the remonstrance.</p> + +<p>The modern stove has brought simplicity of working, +and yet the highest point of convenience, nearly to perfection. +With full faith that the fuel of the future will be +gas, its use is as yet, for many reasons, very limited; the +cost of gas in our smaller cities and towns preventing its +adoption by any but the wealthy, who are really in least +need of it. With the best gas-stoves, a large part of the +disagreeable in cooking is done away. No flying ashes, +no cinders, no uneven heat, affected by every change of +wind, but a steady flame, regulated to any desired point, +and, when used, requiring only a turn of the hand to end +the operation.</p> + +<p>Ranges set in a solid brick-work are considered the +best form of cooking-apparatus; but there are some seri<a name="Page_46" id="Page_46"></a>ous +objections to their use, the first being the large amount +of fuel required, and then the intense heat thrown out. +Even with water in the house, they are not a necessity. +A water-back, fully as effectual as the range water-back, +can be set in any good stove, and connected with a boiler, +large or small, according to the size of the stove; and for +such stove, if properly managed, only about half the +amount of coal will be needed.</p> + +<p>Fix thoroughly in your minds the directions for making +and keeping a fire; for, by doing so, one of the +heaviest expenses in housekeeping can be lessened fully +half.</p> + +<p>First, then, remove the covers, and gather all ashes and +cinders from the inside top of the stove, into the grate. +Now put on the covers; shut the doors; close all the +draughts, and dump the contents of the grate into the +pan below. In some stoves there is an under-grate, to +which a handle is attached; and, this grate being shaken, +the ashes pass through to the ash-pan, and the cinders +remain in the grate. In that case, they can simply be +shoveled out into the extra coal-hod, all pieces of clinker +picked out, and a little water sprinkled on them. If all +must be dumped together, a regular ash-sifter will be +required, placed over a barrel which receives the ashes, +while the cinders remain, and are to be treated as described.</p> + +<p>Into the grate put shavings or paper, or the fat pine +known as lightwood. If the latter be used, paper is unnecessary. +Lay on some small sticks of wood, <i>crossing them</i> +so that there may be a draught through them; add then +one or two sticks of hard wood, and set the shavings or +paper on fire, seeing that every draught is open. As +<a name="Page_47" id="Page_47"></a>soon as the wood is well on fire, cover with about six +inches of coal, the smaller, or nut-coal, being always +best for stove use. When the coal is burning brightly, +shut up all the dampers save the slide in front of the +grate, and you will have a fire which will last, without +poking or touching in any way, four hours. Even if a +little more heat is needed for ovens, and you open the +draughts, this rule still holds good.</p> + +<p>Never, for any reason, allow the coal to come above +the edge of the fire-box or lining. If you do, ashes and +cinders will fall into the oven-flues, and they will soon be +choked up, and require cleaning. Another reason also lies +in the fact that the stove-covers resting on red-hot coals +soon burn out, and must be renewed; whereas, by carefully +avoiding such chance, a stove may be used many +years without crack or failure of any sort.</p> + +<p>If fresh heat is required for baking or any purpose after +the first four hours, let the fire burn low, then take off +the covers, and with the poker <i>from the bottom</i> rake out +all the ashes thoroughly. Then put in two or three sticks +of wood, fill as before with fresh coal, and the fire is good +for another four hours or more. If only a light fire be +required after dinner for getting tea, rake only slightly; +then, fill with <i>cinders</i>, and close all the dampers. Half an +hour before using the stove, open them, and the fire will +rekindle enough for any ordinary purpose. As there is +great difference in the "drawing" of chimneys, the exact +time required for making a fire can not be given.</p> + +<p>In using wood, the same principles apply; but of course +the fire must be fed much oftener. Grate-fires, as well as +those in the ordinary stove, are to be made in much the +same way. In a grate, a blower is fastened on until the coal +<a name="Page_48" id="Page_48"></a>is burning well; but, if the fire is undisturbed after its renewal, +it should burn from six to eight hours without further +attention. Then rake out the ashes, add coal, put on the +blower a few minutes, and then proceed as before. If an +exceedingly slow fire is desired, cover the top with cinders, +or with ashes moistened with water. In making a grate +or stove fire, keep a coarse cloth to lay before it, that +ashes may not spoil the carpet; and wipe about the fire-place +with a damp, coarse cloth. In putting on coal in +a sick-room, where noise would disturb the patient, it is a +good plan to put it in small paper bags or in pieces of +newspaper, in which it can be laid on silently. A short +table of degrees of heat in various forms of fuel is given +below; the degree required for baking, &c, finding place +when we come to general operations in cooking.</p> + +<div class='center'> +<b>DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL.</b><br /> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL"> +<tr><td align='left'>Willow charcoal</td><td align='right'>600°<i>Fah.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ordinary charcoal</td><td align='right'>700°<i>Fah.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Hard wood</td><td align='right'>800° to 900°<i>Fah.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Coal</td><td align='right'>1000°<i>Fah.</i></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p><i>Lights</i> are next in order. Gas hardly requires mention, +as the care of it is limited to seeing that it is not turned +too high, the flame in such case not only vitiating the air +of the room with double speed, but leaving a film of smoke +upon every thing in it. Kerosene is the oil most largely +used for lamps; and the light from either a student-lamp, +or the lamp to which a "student-burner" has been applied, +is the purest and steadiest now in use. A few simple +rules for the care of lamps will prevent, not only danger +of explosion, but much breakage of chimneys, smoking, &c.</p> + +<p>1. Let the wick always touch the bottom of the lamp, +<a name="Page_49" id="Page_49"></a>and see that the top is trimmed square and even across, +with a pair of scissors kept for the purpose.</p> + +<p>2. Remember that a lamp, if burned with only a little +oil in it, generates a gas which is liable at any moment to +explode. Fill lamps to within half an inch of the top. If +filled brimming full, the outside of the lamp will be constantly +covered with the oil, even when unlighted; while as +soon as lighted, heat expanding it, it will run over, and +grease every thing near it.</p> + +<p>3. In lighting a lamp, turn the wick up gradually, that +the chimney may heat slowly: otherwise the glass expands +too rapidly, and will crack.</p> + +<p>4. Keep the wick turned high enough to burn freely. +Many persons turn down the wick to save oil, but the room +is quickly poisoned by the evil smell from the gas thus +formed. If necessary, as in a sick-room, to have little +light, put the lamp in the hall or another room, rather +than to turn it down.</p> + +<p>5. Remember, that, as with the fire, plenty of fresh air +is necessary for a free blaze, and that your lamp must be +kept as free from dirt as the stove from ashes. In washing +the chimneys, use hot suds; and wipe with bits of +newspaper, which not only dry the glass better than a +cloth, but polish it also.</p> + +<p>6. In using either student-lamps, whether German or +American, or the beautiful and costly forms known as +moderator-lamps, remember, that, to secure a clear flame, +the oil which accumulates in the cup below the wick, as +well as any surplus which has overflowed from the reservoir, +must be <i>poured out daily</i>. The neglect of this precaution +is the secret of much of the trouble attending the +easy getting out of order of expensive lamps, which will +<a name="Page_50" id="Page_50"></a>cease to be sources of difficulty if this rule be followed +carefully.</p> + +<p>7. Keep every thing used in such cleaning in a small +box; the ordinary starch-box with sliding lid being excellent +for this purpose. Extra wicks, lamp-scissors, rags +for wiping off oil, can all find place here. See that lamp-rags +are burned now and then, and fresh ones taken; as +the smell of kerosene is very penetrating, and a room is +often made unpleasant by the presence of dirty lamp-rags. +If properly cared for, lamps need be no more offensive +than gas.</p> + +<p><i>Things</i> to work with.</p> + +<p>We have settled that our kitchen shall be neat, cheerful, +and sunny, with closets as much as possible near enough +together to prevent extra steps being taken. If the servant +is sufficiently well-trained to respect the fittings of a +well-appointed kitchen, and to take pleasure in keeping +them in order, the whole apparatus can be arranged in the +kitchen-closets. If, however, there is any doubt on this +point, it will be far better to have your own special table, +and shelf or so above it, where the utensils required for +your own personal use in delicate cooking can be arranged.</p> + +<p>In any kitchen not less than two tables are required: +one for all rough work,—preparing meat, vegetables, &c, +and dishing up meals; the other for general convenience. +The first must stand as near the sink and fire as possible; +and close to it, on a dresser, which it is well to have just +above the table and within reach of the hand, should be all +the essentials for convenient work, namely:—</p> + +<p>A meat-block or board;</p> + +<p>A small meat-saw;</p> + +<p>A small cleaver and meat-knife;</p> + +<p><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51"></a>Spoons, skewers, vegetable-cutters, and any other small +conveniences used at this table, such as potato-slicer, larding +and trussing needles, &c.;</p> + +<p>A chopping-knife and wooden tray or bowl;</p> + +<p>Rolling-pin, and bread and pastry board;</p> + +<p>Narrow-bladed, very sharp knife for paring, the French +cook-knife being the best ever invented for this purpose.</p> + +<p>A deep drawer in the table for holding coarse towels +and aprons, balls of twine of two sizes, squares of cloth +used in boiling delicate fish or meats, &c., will be found +almost essential. Basting-spoons and many small articles +can hang on small hooks or nails, and are more easily +picked up than if one must feel over a shelf for them. +These will be egg-beaters, graters, ladle, &c. The same +dresser, or a space over the sink, must hold washing-pans +for meat and vegetables, dish-pans, tin measures from a +gill up to one quart, saucepans, milk-boiler, &c. Below +the sink, the closet for iron-ware can be placed, or, if preferred, +be between sink and stove. A list in detail of +every article required for a comfortably-fitted-up kitchen +is given at the end of the book. House-furnishing stores +furnish elaborate and confusing ones. The present list +is simply what is needed for the most efficient work. +Of course, as you experiment and advance, it may be +enlarged; but the simple outfit can be made to produce +all the results likely to be needed, and many complicated +patent arrangements are hindrances, rather than helps.</p> + +<p>The <i>Iron-ware</i> closet must hold at least two iron pots, +frying-pans large and small, and a Scotch kettle with frying-basket +for oysters, fish-balls, &c.,—this kettle being a +broad shallow one four or five inches deep. Roasting-pans, +commonly called dripping-pans, are best of Russia +iron.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52"></a><i>Tin-ware</i> must include colander, gravy and jelly strainers, +and vegetable-sifter or <i>purée</i>-sieve; six tin pie-plates, +and from four to six jelly-cake tins with straight edges; +and at least one porcelain-lined kettle, holding not less +than four quarts, while a three-gallon one for preserving +and canning is also desirable;</p> + +<p>Muffin rings or pans; "gem-pans;"</p> + +<p>Four bread-tins, of best tin (or, better still, Russia +iron), the best size for which is ten inches long by four +wide and four deep; the loaf baked in such pan requiring +less time, and giving a slice of just the right shape and +size;</p> + +<p>Cake-tins of various shapes as desired, a set of small +tins being desirable for little cakes.</p> + +<p>A small sifter in basket shape will be found good for +cake-making, and a larger one for bread; and spices can +be most conveniently kept in a spice-caster, which is a +stand holding six or eight small labeled canisters. Near +it can also be small tin boxes or glass cans for dried +sweet herbs, the salt-box, &c.</p> + +<p>The <i>Crockery</i> required will be: at least two large mixing-bowls, +holding not less than eight or ten quarts, and +intended for bread, cake, and many other purposes; a +bowl with lip to pour from, and also a smaller-sized one +holding about two quarts; half a dozen quart and pint +bowls;</p> + +<p>Half a dozen one-and two-quart round or oval pudding-dishes +or nappies;</p> + +<p>Several deep plates for use in putting away cold food;</p> + +<p>Blancmange-molds, three sizes;</p> + +<p>One large pitcher, also three-pint and quart sizes;</p> + +<p>Yeast-jar, or, what is better, two or three Mason's glass +cans, kept for yeast.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53"></a>This list does not include any crockery for setting a +servant's table; that being governed by the number kept, +and other considerations. Such dishes should be of +heavier ware than your own, as they are likely to receive +rougher handling; but there should be a full supply as one +means of teaching neatness.</p> + +<p><i>Wooden-ware</i> is essential in the shape of a nest of +boxes for rice, tapioca, &c.; and wooden pails for sugar, +Graham-flour, &c.; while you will gradually accumulate +many conveniences in the way of jars, stone pots for +pickling, demijohns, &c., which give the store-room, at +last, the expression dear to all thrifty housekeepers.</p> + +<p>Scrubbing and water pails, scrubbing and blacking +brushes, soap-dishes, sand-box, knife-board, and necessities +in cleaning, must all find place, and, having found it, +keep it to the end; absolute order and system being the +first condition of comfortable housekeeping.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI" /><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<h2>WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL.</h2> + + +<p>Why Monday should be fixed upon as washing-day, +is often questioned; but, like many other apparently +arbitrary arrangements, its foundation is in common-sense. +Tuesday has its advantages also, soon to be mentioned; +but to any later period than Tuesday there are +serious objections. All clothing is naturally changed on +Sunday; and, if washed before dirt has had time to harden +in the fiber of the cloth, the operation is much easier. +The German custom, happily passing away, of washing +only annually or semi-annually, is both disgusting, and destructive +to health and clothes; the air of whatever room +such accumulations are stored in being poisoned, while +the clothes themselves are rubbed to pieces in the endeavor +to get out the long-seated dirt.</p> + +<p>A weekly wash being the necessity if perfect cleanliness +exists, the simplest and best method of thoroughly accomplishing +it comes up for question. While few women are +obliged to use their own hands in such directions, plenty +of needy and unskilled workwomen who can earn a living +in no other way being ready to relieve us, it is yet quite +as necessary to know every detail, in order that the best +work may be required, and that where there is ignorance +of methods in such work they may be taught.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55"></a>The advantages of washing on Tuesday are, that it +allows Monday for setting in order after the necessary +rest of Sunday, gives opportunity to collect and put in +soak all the soiled clothing, and so does away with the +objection felt by many good people to performing this +operation Sunday night.</p> + +<p>To avoid such sin, bed-clothing is often changed on Saturday; +but it seems only part of the freshness and sweetness +which ought always to make Sunday the white-day +of the week, that such change should be made on that +morning, while the few minutes required for sorting the +clothes, and putting them in water, are quite as legitimate +as any needed operation.</p> + +<p>If Monday be the day, then, Saturday night may be +chosen for filling the tubs, supposing the kitchen to be +unfurnished with stationary tubs. Sunday night enough +hot water can be added to make the whole just warm—not +hot. Now put in one tub all fine things,—collars and +cuffs, shirts and fine underwear. Bed-linen may be added, +or soaked in a separate tub; but table-linen must of +course be kept apart. Last, let the coarsest and most +soiled articles have another. Do not add soap, as if there +is any stain it is likely to set it. If the water is hard, a +little borax may be added. And see that the clothes are +pressed down, and well covered with water.</p> + +<p>Monday morning, and the earlier the better (the morning +sun drying and sweetening clothes better than the +later), have the boiler full of clean warm suds. Soft soap +may be used, or a bar of hard dissolved in hot water, and +used like soft soap. All the water in which the clothes +have soaked should be drained off, and the hot suds poured +on. Begin with the cleanest articles, which when washed +<a name="Page_56" id="Page_56"></a>carefully are wrung out, and put in a tub of warm water. +Rinse out from this; rub soap on all the parts which are +most soiled, these parts being bands and sleeves, and put +them in the boiler with cold water enough to cover them. +To boil up once will be sufficient for fine clothes. Then +take them out into a tub of clean cold water; rinse them +in this, and then in a tub of water made very slightly blue +with the indigo-bag or liquid indigo. From this water +they must be wrung out very dry, and hung out, always +out of doors if possible. A wringer is much better than +wringing by hand, as the latter is more unequal, and also +often twists off buttons. The lines must be perfectly clean. +A galvanized-iron wire is best of all; as it never rusts, and +needs only to be wiped off each week. If rope is used, +never leave it exposed to weather, but bring it in after +each washing. A dirty, weather-stained line will often +ruin a nice garment. Leave clothes on the line till +perfectly dry. If any fruit-stains are on napkins or table-cloths, +lay the stained part over a bowl, and pour on +boiling water till they disappear. Ink can be taken out if +the spot is washed while fresh, in cold water, or milk and +water; and a little salt will help in taking out wine-stains. +Machine-oil must have a little lard or butter rubbed on the +spot, which is then to be washed in warm suds. Never +rub soap directly on any stain, as it sets it. For iron-rust, +spread the garment in the sun, and cover the spot +with salt; then squeeze on lemon-juice enough to wet it. +This is much safer and quite as sure as the acids sold for +this purpose. In bright sunshine the spot will disappear +in a few hours.</p> + +<p>Remember that long boiling does not improve clothes. +If washed clean, simply scalding is all that is required.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57"></a>If delicate curtains, either lace or muslin, are to be +washed, allow a tablespoonful of powdered borax to two +gallons of warm water, and soap enough to make a strong +suds. Soak the curtains in this all night. In the morning +add more warm water, and press every part between +the hands, without rubbing. Put them in fresh suds, and, +if the water still looks dark after another washing, take +still another. Boil and rinse as in directions given for +other clothes. Starch with very thick hot starch, and +dry, not by hanging out, and then ironing, but by putting +a light common mattress in the sun, and pinning +the curtain upon it, stretching carefully as you pin. One +mattress holds two, which will dry in an hour or two. If +there is no sun, lay a sheet on the floor of an unused +room, and pin the curtains down upon it.</p> + +<p>In washing flannels, remember that it must be done in +a sunny day, that they may dry as rapidly as possible. +Put them into hot suds. Do not rub them on a washing-board, +as this is one means of fulling and ruining them. +Press and rub them in the hands, changing them soon to +fresh hot suds. Rinse in a pail of clear hot water; +wring very dry; shake, and hang at once in the sun. +Flannels thus treated, no matter how delicate, retain their +softness and smoothness, and do not shrink.</p> + +<p>Starch is the next consideration, and is made in two +ways,—either raw or boiled. Boiled starch is made by +adding cold water to raw starch in the proportion of one +cup of water to three-quarters of a cup of starch, and +then pouring on boiling water till it has thickened to a +smooth mass, constantly stirring as you pour. A bit of +butter is added by many excellent laundresses, the bit +not to be larger than a filbert. Any thing starched with +<a name="Page_58" id="Page_58"></a>boiled starch must be dried and sprinkled before ironing, +while with raw starch this is not necessary.</p> + +<p>To make raw starch, allow four even tablespoonfuls to +a half-pint of cold water. Dip collars, cuffs, and shirt-bosoms, +or any thing which must be very stiff, into this +starch, being careful to have them dry. When wet, clap +them well between the hands, as this distributes the starch +evenly among the fibers of the cloth. The same rule +must be followed in using boiled starch. Roll the articles +in a damp cloth, as this makes them iron more smoothly; +and in an hour they will be ready for the iron. In using +boiled starch, after the articles have been dried, and then +dampened by sprinkling water lightly upon them, either +by the hand, or by shaking over them a small whisk-broom +which is dipped as needed in water, it is better +to let them lie ten or twelve hours.</p> + +<p>All clothes require this folding and dampening. Sheets +and table-cloths should be held by two persons, shaken +and "snapped," and then folded carefully, stretching the +edges if necessary.</p> + +<p>Colored clothing must be rinsed before starching, and +the starch should be thin and cool.</p> + +<p>For ironing neatly and well, there will be required, +half a dozen flat-irons, steel bottoms preferred; a skirt-board +and bosom-board, both covered, first with old blanket +or carpet, then with thick strong cotton-cloth, and +over this a cover of lighter cloth, sewed on so that it may +be removed as often as may be necessary to wash it. If +a bag the size of each is made, and they are hung up +in this as soon as used, such washing need very seldom +be. Having these, many dispense with ironing-sheet +and blanket; but it is better to use a table for all large +<a name="Page_59" id="Page_59"></a>articles, and on this the ironing-sheet can be pinned, or +tied by tapes, or strips of cloth, sewed to each corner. A +stand on which to set the irons, a paper and coarse cloth +to rub them off on, and a bit of yellow wax tied in a cloth, +and used to remove any roughness from the iron, are the +requirements of the ironing-table.</p> + +<p>Once a month, while the irons are still slightly warm, +wash them in warm water in which a little lard has been +melted. Never let them stand day after day on the stove, +and never throw cold water on them, as it makes them +very rough.</p> + +<p>If the starch clings to the irons, put a little Bristol-brick +on a board, and rub them up and down till free. If they +are too hot for use, put in a current of air a few moments; +and in all cases try them on a piece of paper or cloth before +putting them on a garment. If through carelessness +or accident an article is scorched, lay it in the hottest sunshine +to be found. If the fiber is not burned, this will +often take the spot entirely out.</p> + +<p>Let the ironed clothes hang in the air for at least +twenty-four hours after ironing. Unaired sheets have +often brought on fatal sickness. Examine all clothes sent +up from the wash. If the laundress is sure this inspection +will take place, it is a constant spur to working in the +best way, and a word of praise for good points is always +a stimulus. Mending should be done as the clothes are +looked over, before putting away. Place the sheets from +each wash at the bottom of the pile, that the same ones +may not be used over and over, but all come in rotation; +and the same with table-linen. If the table-cloth in use +is folded carefully in the creases, and kept under a heavy +piece of plank, it will retain a fresh look till soiled.<a name="Page_60" id="Page_60"></a> +Special hints as to washing blankets and dress-materials +will be given in the latter part of the book.</p> + +<p>However carefully and neatly a house may be kept, it +requires a special putting in order, known as <i>House-cleaning</i>, +at least once a year. Spring and fall are both +devoted to it in New England; and, if the matter be conducted +quietly, there are many advantages in the double +cleaning. In a warmer climate, where insect-life is more +troublesome and the reign of flies lasts longer, two cleanings +are rather a necessity. As generally managed, they +are a terror to every one, and above all to gentlemen, who +resent it from beginning to end. No wonder, if at the +first onslaught all home comfort ends, and regular meals +become irregular lunches, and a quiet night's rest something +sought but not found.</p> + +<p>A few simple rules govern here, and will rob the ordeal +of half its terrors.</p> + +<p>If coal or wood are to be laid in for the year's supply, +let it be done before cleaning begins, as much dust is +spread through the house in such work.</p> + +<p>Heavy carpets do not require taking up every year; once +in two, or even three, being sufficient unless they are in +constant use. Take out the tacks, however, each year; +fold back the carpet half a yard or so; have the floor +washed with a strong suds in which borax has been dissolved,—a +tablespoonful to a pail of water; then dust +black pepper along the edges, and retack the carpet. By +this means moths are kept away; and, as their favorite +place is in corners and folds, this laying back enables one +to search out and destroy them.</p> + +<p>Sapolio is better than sand for scouring paint, and in +all cases a little borax in the water makes such work +easier.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61"></a>Closets should be put in order first; all winter clothing +packed in trunks, or put in bags made from several thicknesses +of newspaper, printers' ink being one of the most +effectual protections against moths. Gum-camphor is +also excellent; and, if you have no camphor-wood chest +or closet, a pound of the gum, sewed into little bags, will +last for years. In putting away clothing, blankets, &c., +look all over, and brush and shake with the utmost care +before folding, in order to get rid of any possible moth-eggs.</p> + +<p>If matting is used, wipe it with borax-water, using a +cloth wet enough to dampen but <i>not</i> wet.</p> + +<p>Window-glass thoroughly washed can be dried and polished +with old newspapers; or whiting can be used, and +rubbed off with a woolen cloth.</p> + +<p>Hard-wood furniture, black walnut, or other varieties, +requires oiling lightly with boiled linseed oil, and rubbing +dry with a woolen cloth; and varnished furniture, mahogany +or rosewood, if kept carefully dusted, requires +only an occasional rubbing with chamois-skin or thick +flannel to retain its polish perfectly. Soap should never +be used on varnish of any sort.</p> + +<p>Ingrain and other carpets, after shaking, are brightened +in color by sprinkling a pound or two of salt over the +surface, and sweeping carefully; and it is also useful to +occasionally wipe off a carpet with borax-water, using a +thick flannel, and taking care not to wet, but only dampen +the carpet. Mirrors can be cleaned with whiting. Never +scrub oil-pictures: simply wipe with a damp cloth, and, if +picture-cord is used, wipe it off to secure against moths.</p> + +<p>It is impossible to cover the whole ground of cleaning +in this chapter. Experience is the best teacher. Only +<a name="Page_62" id="Page_62"></a>remember that a household earthquake is not necessary, +and that the whole work can be done so gradually, quietly, +and systematically, that only the workers need know much +about it. The sense of purity transfused through the air +and breathing from every nook and corner should be the +only indication that upheaval has existed. The best work +is always in silence.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII" /><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<h2>THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION.</h2> + + +<p>"The lamp of life" is a very old metaphor for the +mysterious principle vitalizing nerve and muscle; +but no comparison could be so apt. The full-grown adult +takes in each day, through lungs and mouth, about eight +and a half pounds of dry food, water, and the air necessary +for breathing purposes. Through the pores of the skin, +the lungs, kidneys, and lower intestines, there is a corresponding +waste; and both supply and waste amount in a +year to one and a half tons, or three thousand pounds.</p> + +<p>The steadiness and clear shining of the flame of a lamp +depend upon quality, as well as amount of the oil supplied, +and, too, the texture of the wick; and so all human +life and work are equally made or marred by the food +which sustains life, as well as the nature of the constitution +receiving that food.</p> + +<p>Before the nature and quality of food can be considered, +we must know the constituents of the body to be fed, +and something of the process through which digestion and +nutrition are accomplished.</p> + +<p>I shall take for granted that you have a fairly plain idea +of the stomach and its dependences. Physiologies can +always be had, and for minute details they must be referred +to. Bear in mind one or two main points: that all food +passes from the mouth to the stomach, an irregularly-<a name="Page_64" id="Page_64"></a>shaped +pouch or bag with an opening into the duodenum, +and from thence into the larger intestine. From the mouth +to the end of this intestine, the whole may be called the +alimentary canal; a tube of varying size and some thirty-six +feet in length. The mouth must be considered part of +it, as it is in the mouth that digestion actually begins; +all starchy foods depending upon the action of the saliva +for genuine digestion, saliva having some strange power +by which starch is converted into sugar. Swallowed +whole, or placed directly in the stomach, such food passes +through the body unchanged. Each division of the alimentary +canal has its own distinct digestive juice, and I +give them in the order in which they occur.</p> + +<p>First, The saliva; secreted from the glands of the +mouth:—alkaline, glairy, adhesive.</p> + +<p>Second, The gastric juice; secreted in the inner or third +lining of the stomach,—an acid, and powerful enough to +dissolve all the fiber and albumen of flesh food.</p> + +<p>Third, The pancreatic juice; secreted by the pancreas, +which you know in animals as sweetbreads. This juice +has a peculiar influence upon fats, which remain unchanged +by saliva and gastric juice; and not until dissolved by +pancreatic juice, and made into what chemists call an +<i>emulsion</i>, can they be absorbed into the system.</p> + +<p>Fourth, The bile; which no physiologist as yet thoroughly +understands. We know its action, but hardly <i>why</i> +it acts. It is a necessity, however; for if by disease the +supply be cut off, an animal emaciates and soon dies.</p> + +<p>Fifth, The intestinal juice; which has some properties +like saliva, and is the last product of the digestive forces.</p> + +<p>A meal, then, in its passage downward is first diluted +and increased in bulk by a watery fluid which prepares all +<a name="Page_65" id="Page_65"></a>the starchy portion for absorption. Then comes a still +more profuse fluid, dissolving all the meaty part. Then +the fat is attended to by the stream of pancreatic juice, +and at the same time the bile pours upon it, doing its own +work in its own mysterious way; and last of all, lest any +process should have been imperfect, the long canal sends +out a juice having some of the properties of all.</p> + +<p>Thus each day's requirements call for</p> + + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>PINTS.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Of</td><td align='left'>saliva</td><td align='left'>3¾</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>gastric juice</td><td align='left'>12</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>bile</td><td align='left'>3¾</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>pancreatic juice</td><td align='left'>1½</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>intestinal juice</td><td align='left'>½</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>——</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'></td><td align='left'>21½</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Do not fancy this is all wasted or lost. Very far from +it: for the whole process seems to be a second circulation, +as it were; and, while the blood is moving in its wonderful +passage through veins and arteries, another circulation as +wonderful, an endless current going its unceasing round +so long as life lasts, is also taking place. But without +food the first would become impossible; and the quality of +food, and its proper digestion, mean good or bad blood as +the case may be. We must follow our mouthful of food, +and see how this action takes place.</p> + +<p>When the different juices have all done their work, the +<i>chyme</i>, which is food as it passes from the stomach into +the duodenum or passage to the lower stomach or bowels, +becomes a milky substance called <i>chyle</i>, which moves +slowly, pushed by numberless muscles along the bowel, +which squeeze much of it into little glands at the back of +the bowels. These are called the mesenteric glands; and, +<a name="Page_66" id="Page_66"></a>as each one receives its portion of chyle, a wonderful thing +happens. About half of it is changed into small round +bodies called corpuscles, and they float with the rest of +the milky fluid through delicate pipes which take it to a +sort of bag just in front of the spine. To this bag is +fastened another pipe or tube—the thoracic duct—which +follows the line of the spine; and up this tube the small +bodies travel till they come to the neck and a spot where +two veins meet. A door in one opens, and the transformation +is complete. The small bodies are raw food no +more, but blood, traveling fast to where it may be purified, +and begin its endless round in the best condition. For, as +you know, venous blood is still impure and dirty blood. +Before it can be really alive it must pass through the +veins to the right side of the heart, flow through into the +upper chamber, then through another door or valve into +the lower, where it is pumped out into the lungs. If these +lungs are, as they should be, full of pure air, each corpuscle +is so charged with oxygen, that the last speck of +impurity is burned up, and it goes dancing and bounding +on its way. That is what health means: perfect food +made into perfect blood, and giving that sense of strength +and exhilaration that we none of us know half as much +about as we should. We get it sometimes on mountain-tops +in clear autumn days when the air is like wine; but +God meant it to be our daily portion, and this very despised +knowledge of cookery is to bring it about. If a +lung is imperfect, supplied only with foul air as among the +very poor, or diseased as in consumption, food does not +nourish, and you now know why. We have found that the +purest air and the purest water contain the largest proportion +of oxygen; and it is this that vitalizes both food and, +through food, the blood.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67"></a>To nourish this body, then, demands many elements; +and to study these has been the joint work of chemists +and physiologists, till at last every constituent of the body +is known and classified. Many as these constituents are, +they are all resolved into the simple elements, oxygen, +hydrogen, nitrogen, and carbon, while a little sulphur, a +little phosphorus, lime, chlorine, sodium, &c., are added.</p> + +<p>FLESH and BLOOD are composed of water, fat, fibrine, +albumen, gelatine, and the compounds of lime, phosphorus, +soda, potash, magnesia, iron, &c.</p> + +<p>BONE contains cartilage, gelatine, fat, and the salts of +lime, magnesia, soda, &c., in combination with phosphoric +and other acids.</p> + +<p>CARTILAGE consists of chondrine, a substance somewhat +like gelatine, and contains also the salts of sulphur, lime, +soda, potash, phosphorus, magnesia, and iron.</p> + +<p>BILE is made up of water, fat, resin, sugar, cholesterine, +some fatty acids, and the salts of potash, iron, and soda.</p> + +<p>THE BRAIN is made up of water, albumen, fat, phosphoric +acid, osmazone, and salts.</p> + +<p>THE LIVER unites water, fat, and albumen, with phosphoric +and other acids, and lime, iron, soda, and potash.</p> + +<p>THE LUNGS are formed of two substances: one like gelatine; +another of the nature of caseine and albumen, +fibrine, cholesterine, iron, water, soda, and various fatty +and organic acids.</p> + +<p>How these varied elements are held together, even +science with all its deep searchings has never told. No +man, by whatsoever combination of elements, has ever +made a living plant, much less a living animal. No better +comparison has ever been given than that of Youmans, +who makes a table of the analogies between the human +body and the steam-engine, which I give as it stands.<a name="Page_68" id="Page_68"></a></p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="ANALOGIES OF THE STEAM-ENGINE AND THE LIVING BODY."> +<tr><td align='left'><b>ANALOGIES OF THE STEAM-ENGINE AND THE LIVING BODY.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i><b>The Steam Engine in Action takes</b></i>:</td><td align='left'><i><b>The Animal Body in Life takes</b></i>:</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>1. Fuel: coal and wood, both combustible.</td><td align='left'>1. Food: vegetables and flesh, both combustible.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>2. Water for evaporation.</td><td align='left'>2. Water for circulation.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>3. Air for combustion.</td><td align='left'>3. Air for respiration.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><i><b>And Produces</b></i>:</td><td align='left'><i><b>And Produces</b></i>:</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>4. A steady boiling heat of 212° by quick combustion.</td><td align='left'>4. A steady animal heat, by slow combustion, of 98°.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>5. Smoke loaded with carbonic acid and watery vapor.</td><td align='left'>5. Expired breath loaded with carbonic acid and watery vapor.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>6. Incombustible ashes.</td><td align='left'>6. Incombustible animal refuse.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>7. Motive force of simple alternate push and pull in the piston, which, acting through wheels, bands, and levers, does work of endless variety.</td><td align='left'>7. Motive force of simple alternate contraction and relaxation in the muscles, which, acting through joints, tendons, and levers, does work of endless variety.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>8. A deficiency of fuel, water, or air, disturbs, then stops the motion.</td><td align='left'>8. A deficiency of food, drink, or air, first disturbs, then stops the motion and the life.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>Carrying out this analogy, you will at once see why a +person working hard with either body or mind requires +more food than the one who does but little. The food +taken into the human body can never be a simple element. +We do not feed on plain, undiluted oxygen or nitrogen; +and, while the composition of the human body includes +really sixteen elements in all, oxygen is the only one used +in its natural state. I give first the elements as they exist +in a body weighing about one hundred and fifty-four +<a name="Page_69" id="Page_69"></a>pounds, this being the average weight of a full-grown +man; and add a table, compiled from different sources, of +the composition of the body as made up from these elements. +Dry as such details may seem, they are the only +key to a full understanding of the body, and the laws of +the body, so far as the food-supply is concerned; though +you will quickly find that the day's food means the day's +thought and work, well or ill, and that in your hands is +put a power mightier than you know,—the power to build +up body, and through body the soul, into a strong and +beautiful manhood and womanhood.</p> + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="ELEMENTS OF THE HUMAN BODY."> +<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='center'><b>ELEMENTS OF THE HUMAN BODY.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>Lbs.</td><td align='right'>Oz.</td><td align='right'>Grs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>1.</td><td align='left'>Oxygen, a gas, and supporter of combustion, weighs</td><td align='right'>103</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='right'>335</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>2.</td><td align='left'>Carbon, a solid; found most nearly pure in charcoal. Carbon in the body combines with other elements to produce carbonic-acid gas, and by its burning sets heat free. Its weight is</td><td align='right'>18</td><td align='right'>11</td><td align='right'>150</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>3.</td><td align='left'>Hydrogen, a gas, is a part of all bone, blood, and muscle, and weighs</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>14</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>4.</td><td align='left'>Nitrogen, a gas, is also part of all muscle, blood, and bone; weighing</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>14</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>5.</td><td align='left'>Phosphorus, a solid, found in brain and bones, weighs</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='right'>25</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>6.</td><td align='left'>Sulphur, a solid, found in all parts of the body, weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>8</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>7.</td><td align='left'>Chlorine, a gas, found in all parts of the body, weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>150</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>8.</td><td align='left'>Fluorine, supposed to be a gas, is found with calcium in teeth and bones, and weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='right'>300</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>9.</td><td align='left'>Silicon, a solid, found united with oxygen in the hair, skin, bile, bones, blood, and saliva, weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>14</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>10.</td><td align='left'>Magnesium, a metal found in union with phosphoric acid in the bones</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='right'>250</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>11.</td><td align='left'>Potassium, a metal, the basis of potash, is found as phosphate and chloride; weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='right'>340</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>12.</td><td align='left'>Sodium, a metal, basis of soda; weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='right'>217</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>13.</td><td align='left'>Calcium, a metal, basis of lime, found chiefly in bones and teeth; weighs</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='right'>13</td><td align='right'>190</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>14.</td><td align='left'>Iron, a metal essential in the coloring of the blood, and found everywhere in the body; weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>65</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>15.</td><td align='left'>Manganese.}</td><td align='right'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>16.</td><td align='left'>Copper metals.} Faint traces of both these metals are found in brain and blood, but in too minute portions to be given by weight.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'><b>Total</b></td><td align='right'><b>154</b></td><td align='right'><b>0</b></td><td align='right'><b>0</b></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>The second table gives the combinations of these elements; and, though a +knowledge of such combinations is not as absolutely essential as the +first, we still can not well dispense with it. The same weight—one +hundred and fifty-four pounds—is taken as the standard.</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="COMPOSITION OF THE BODY."> +<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='center'><b>COMPOSITION OF THE BODY.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'>Lbs.</td><td align='right'>Oz.</td><td align='right'>Grs.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>1.</td><td align='left'>Water, which is found in every part of the body, and amounts to</td><td align='right'>109</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>2.</td><td align='left'>Fibrine, and like substances, found in the blood, and forming the chief solid materials of the flesh</td><td align='right'>15</td><td align='right'>10</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>3.</td><td align='left'>Phosphate of lime, chiefly in bones and teeth, but in all liquids and tissues</td><td align='right'>8</td><td align='right'>12</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>4.</td><td align='left'>Fat, a mixture of three chemical compounds, and distributed all through the body</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>8</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>5.</td><td align='left'>Osseine, the organic framework of bones; boiled, gives gelatine. Weight</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>7</td><td align='left'>350</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>6.</td><td align='left'>Keratine, a nitrogenous substance, forming the greater part of hair, nails, and skin. Weighs</td><td align='right'>4</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>7.</td><td align='left'>Cartilagine resembles the osseine of bone, and is a nitrogenous substance, the chief constituent of cartilage, weighing</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='right'>8</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>8.</td><td align='left'>Hæmoglobine gives the red color to blood, and is a nitrogenous substance containing iron, and weighing</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='right'>8</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>9.</td><td align='left'>Albumen is a soluble nitrogenous substance, found in the blood, chyle, lymph, and muscle, and weighs</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>10.</td><td align='left'>Carbonate of lime is found in the bones chiefly, and weighs</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>11.</td><td align='left'>Hephalin is found in nerves and brain, with cerebrine and other compounds</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>13</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>12.</td><td align='left'>Fluoride of calcium is found in teeth and bones, and weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>7</td><td align='right'>175</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>13.</td><td align='left'>Phosphate of magnesia is also in teeth and bones, and weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>7</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>14.</td><td align='left'>Chloride of sodium, or common salt, is found in all parts of the body, and weighs</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>7</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>15.</td><td align='left'>Cholesterine, glycogen, and inosite are compounds containing hydrogen, oxygen, and carbon, found in muscle, liver, and brain, and weighing</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>3</td><td align='right'>0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>16.</td><td align='left'>Sulphate phosphate, and salts of sodium, found in all tissues and liquids</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>2</td><td align='right'>107</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>17.</td><td align='left'>Sulphate, phosphate, and chloride of potassium, are also in all tissues and liquids</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>1</td><td align='right'>300</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>18.</td><td align='left'>Silica, found in hair, skin, and bone</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>0</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'></td><td align='left'><b>154</b></td><td align='right'><b>0</b></td><td align='right'><b>0</b></td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>With this basis, to give us some understanding of the complicated and +delicate machinery with which we must work, the question arises, what food +contains all these constituents, and what its amount and character must +be. The answer to this question will help us to form an intelligent plan +for providing a family with the right nutrition.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII" />CHAPTER VIII.</h2> +<p><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73"></a></p> + +<h2>FOOD AND ITS LAWS.</h2> + +<p>We have found, that, in analyzing the constituents of +the body, water is the largest part; and turning +to food, whether animal or vegetable, the same fact holds +good. It forms the larger part of all the drinks, of fruits, +of succulent vegetables, eggs, fish, cheese, the cereals, +and even of fats.</p> + +<p>Fat is found in butter, lard, drippings, milk, eggs, +cheese, fish, meat, the cereals, leguminous vegetables,—such +as pease and beans,—nuts, cocoa, and chocolate.</p> + +<p>Sugar abounds in fruits and vegetables, and is found in +milk and cereals.</p> + +<p>Starch, which under the action of the saliva changes +into glucose or grape-sugar, is present in vegetables and +cereals.</p> + +<p>Flesh foods, called as often nitrogenous foods, from +containing so large a proportion of nitrogen, are made up +of fibrine, albumen, caseine, gelatine, and gluten; the first +four elements being present in flesh, the latter in vegetables.</p> + +<p>Salts of various forms exist in both animal and vegetable +food. In meat, fish, and potatoes are found phosphorus, +lime, and magnesia. Common salt is largely made +up of soda, but is found with potash in many vegetables. +This last element is also in meat, fish, milk, vegetables, +and fruits. Iron abounds in flesh and vegetables; and +sulphur enters into albumen, caseine, and fibrine.</p> + +<p>The simplest division of food is into <i>flesh-formers</i> and +<i>heat-producers</i>; the former being as often called nitrogenous +food, or albumenoids; the latter, heat-giving or carbonaceous +foods. Much minuter divisions could be made, +but these two cover the ground sufficiently well. For a +healthy body both are necessary, but climate and constitution +will always make a difference in the amounts required. +Thus, in a keen and long-continued winter, the +most condensed forms of carbonaceous foods will be +needed; while in summer a small portion of nitrogenous +food to nourish muscle, and a large amount of cooling +fruits and vegetables, are indicated; both of these, though +more or less carbonaceous in character, containing so +much water as to neutralize any heat-producing effects.</p> + +<p>Muscle being the first consideration in building up a +strong body, we need first to find out the values of different +foods as flesh-formers, healthy flesh being muscle in +its most perfect condition. Flesh and fat are never to be +confounded, fat being really a species of disease,—the +overloading of muscle and tissue with what has no rightful +place there. There should be only enough fat to round +over the muscle, but never hide its play. The table given +is the one in use in the food-gallery of the South Kensington +Museum, and includes not only the nutritive value, but +the cost also, of each article; taking beef as the standard +with which other animal foods are to be compared, beef +being the best-known of all meats. Among vegetables, +lentils really contain most nourishment; but wheat is chosen +as being much more familiar, lentils being very little +used in this country save by the German part of the population, +and having so strong and peculiar a flavor that we +are never likely to largely adopt their use.</p> + +<p>About an equal amount of nourishment is found in the +varied amounts mentioned in the table which follows:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="an equal amount of nourishment is found"> +<tr><td align='center'><b>TABLE.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='right'>Cost about</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eight ounces of lean beef (half-pound)</td><td align='right'>6 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ten ounces of dried lentils</td><td align='right'>7 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eleven ounces of pease or beans</td><td align='right'>5 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Twelve ounces of cocoa-nibs</td><td align='right'>20 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fourteen ounces of tea</td><td align='right'>40 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fifteen ounces of oatmeal</td><td align='right'>5 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One pound and one ounce of wheaten flour</td><td align='right'>4 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One pound and one ounce of coffee</td><td align='right'>30 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One pound and two ounces of rye-flour</td><td align='right'>5 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One pound and three ounces of barley</td><td align='right'>5 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One pound and five ounces Indian meal</td><td align='right'>5 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>One pound and thirteen ounces of buckwheat-flour</td><td align='right'>10 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Two pounds of wheaten bread</td><td align='right'>10 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Two pounds and six ounces of rice</td><td align='right'>20 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Five pounds and three ounces of cabbage</td><td align='right'>10 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Five pounds and three ounces of onions</td><td align='right'>15 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Eight pounds and fifteen ounces of turnips</td><td align='right'>9 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ten pounds and seven ounces of potatoes</td><td align='right'>10 cts.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Fifteen pounds and ten ounces of carrots</td><td align='right'>15 cts.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Now, because tea, coffee, and cocoa approach so nearly +in value as nutriment to beef and lentils, we must not be +misled. Fourteen ounces of tea are equivalent to half a +pound of meat; but a repast of dry tea not being very +usual, in fact, being out of the question altogether, it +becomes plain, that the principal value of these foods, +used as we must use them, in very small quantities, is in +the warmth and comfort they give. Also, these weights +(except the bread) are of uncooked food. Eight ounces +of meat would, if boiled or roasted, dwindle to five or six, +while the ten ounces of lentils or beans would swell to twice +<a name="Page_76" id="Page_76"></a>the capacity of any ordinary stomach. So, ten pounds +of potatoes are required to give you the actual benefit contained +in the few ounces of meat; and only the Irishman +fresh from his native cabin can calmly consider a meal of +that magnitude, while, as to carrots, neither Irishman nor +German, nor the most determined and enterprising American, +could for a moment face the spectacle of fifteen +pounds served up for his noonday meal.</p> + +<p>The inference is plain. Union is strength, here as elsewhere; +and the perfect meal must include as many of +these elements as will make it not too bulky, yet borrowing +flavor and substance wherever necessary.</p> + +<p>As a rule, the food best adapted to climate and constitution +seems to have been instinctively decided upon by +many nations; and a study of national dishes, and their +adaptation to national needs, is curious and interesting. +The Esquimaux or Greenlander finds his most desirable +meal in a lump of raw blubber, the most condensed form +of carbonaceous food being required to preserve life. It +is not a perverted taste, but the highest instinct; for in +that cruel cold the body must furnish the food on which +the keen air draws, and the lamp of life there has a very +literal supply.</p> + +<p>Take now the other extreme of temperature,—the +East Indies, China, Africa, and part even of the West +Indies and America,—and you find rice the universal +food. There is very little call, as you may judge, for heat-producers, +but rather for flesh-formers; and starch and +sugar both fulfill this end, the rice being chiefly starch, +which turns into sugar under the action of the saliva. +Add a little melted butter, the East Indian <i>ghee</i>, or olive-oil +used in the West Indies instead, and we have all the +elements necessary for life under those conditions.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77"></a>A few degrees northward, and the same rice is mingled +with bits of fish or meat, as in the Turkish <i>pilau</i>, a dish +of rice to which mutton or poultry is added.</p> + +<p>The wandering Arab finds in his few dates, and handful +of parched wheat or maize, the sugar and starch holding +all the heat required, while his draught of mare's or +camel's milk, and his occasional <i>pilau</i> of mutton, give +him the various elements which seem sufficient to make +him the model of endurance, blitheness, and muscular +power. So the Turkish burden-bearers who pick up a +two-hundred-pound bag of coffee as one picks up a pebble, +use much the same diet, though adding melons and +cucumbers, which are eaten as we eat apples.</p> + +<p>The noticeable point in the Italian dietary is the universal +and profuse use of macaroni. Chestnuts and Indian +corn, the meal of which is made into a dish called <i>polenta</i>, +something like our mush, are also used, but macaroni is +found at every table, noble or peasant's. No form of +wheat presents such condensed nourishment, and it deserves +larger space on our own bills of fare than we have +ever given it.</p> + +<p>In Spain we find the <i>olla podrida</i>, a dish containing, as +chief ingredient, the <i>garbanzo</i> or field-pea: it is a rich +stew, of fowls or bacon, red peppers, and pease. Red +pepper enters into most of the dishes in torrid climates, +and there is a good and sufficient reason for this apparent +mistake. Intense and long-continued heat weakens the +action of the liver, and thus lessens the supply of bile; and +red pepper has the power of stimulating the liver, and so +assisting digestion. East Indian curries, and the Mexican +and Spanish <i>olla</i>, are therefore founded on common-sense.</p> + +<p>In France the <i>pot-au-feu</i>, or soup-pot, simmers in every +<a name="Page_78" id="Page_78"></a>peasant or middle-class home, and is not to be despised +even in richer ones. In this dish, a small portion of meat +is cooked so judiciously as to flavor a large mass of vegetables +and broth; and this, served with salad and oil and +bread, forms a meal which can hardly be surpassed in its +power of making the most of every constituent offered. +In Germany soups are a national dish also; but their +extreme fondness for pork, especially raw ham and sausage, +is the source of many diseases. Sweden, Norway, +Russia,—all the far northern countries,—tend more and +more to the oily diet of the Esquimaux, fish being a large +part of it. There is no room for other illustrations; but, +as you learn the properties of food, you will be able to +read national dietaries, from the Jewish down, with a +new understanding of what power food had and has in +forming national peculiarities.</p> + +<p>It is settled, then, that to renew our muscles which are +constantly wearing out, we must eat the food containing +the same constituents; and these we find in meat, milk, +eggs, and the entire gluten of grains, &c, as in wheaten-grits +or oatmeal.</p> + +<p>Fat and heat must come to us from the starches and +sugars, in sufficient supply to "put a layer of wadding +between muscles and skin, fill out the wrinkles, and keep +one warm." To find out the proportion needed for one's +own individual constitution, is the first work for all of us. +The laborer requires one thing, the growing child another, +the man or woman whose labor is purely intellectual +another; and to understand how best to meet +these needs, demands a knowledge to which most of us +have been indifferent. If there is excess or lack of any +necessary element, that excess or lack means disease, and +<a name="Page_79" id="Page_79"></a>for such disease we are wholly responsible. Food is not +the only and the universal elixir of life; for weak or poor +blood is often an inheritance, and comes to one tainted +by family diseases, or by defects in air or climate in +general. But, even when outward conditions are most +disastrous, perfect food has power to avert or alter their +effects; and the child who begins life burdened with +scrofulous or other diseases, and grows to a pale, weak, +unwholesome youth, and either a swift passing into the +next world, or a life here of hopeless invalidism, can, +nine times out of ten, have this course of things stopped +by scientific understanding of what foods are necessary +for such conditions.</p> + +<p>I propose to take the life of one who from babyhood up +has been fed on the best food, perfectly prepared, and to +give the tables of such food for different periods in that +life, allowing only such digression as will show the effects +of an opposite course of treatment; thus showing the relations +of food to health,—a more necessary and vital +form of knowledge than any other that the world owns.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX" /><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<h2>THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH.</h2> + + +<p>We begin, then, with a typical baby, born of civilized +parents, and living in the midst of the best civilization +to be had. Savage or even partially civilized life +could never furnish the type we desire. It is true, as we +have seen, that natural laws, so deeply planted that they +have become instincts, have given to many wild nations a +dietary meeting their absolute needs; but only civilization +can find the key to these modes, and make past experience +pay tribute to present knowledge. We do not want an +Indian baby, bound and swathed like a little mummy, +hanging from the pole of a wigwam, placidly sucking a +fish's tail, or a bone of boiled dog; nor an Esquimaux +baby, with its strip of blubber; nor the Hottentot, with +its rope of jerked beef; nor the South-sea Islander, with +its half-cocoanut. Nor will we admit the average Irish +baby, among the laboring classes in both city and country, +brought to the table at three months old to swallow its +portion of coffee or tea; nor the small German, whom at +six months I have seen swallowing its little mug of lager +as philosophically as its serious-faced father. That these +babies have fevers and rashes, and a host of diseases +peculiar to that age, is a matter of course; and equally a +matter of course that the round-eyed mother wonders +<a name="Page_81" id="Page_81"></a>where it got its dreadful disposition, but scorns the +thought that lager or coffee can be irritants, or that the +baby stomach requires but one food, and that one the universal +food of all young animal life,—milk.</p> + +<p>Take, then, our typical baby, lying fresh and sweet in +the well aired and lighted room we suppose to be his +birthright. The bones are still soft, the tender flesh and +skin with little or no power of resistance. Muscles, +nerves, all the wonderful tissues, are in process of formation; +and in the strange growth and development of this +most helpless yet most precious of all God's creations, +there are certain elements which must be had,—phosphates +to harden the delicate bones; nitrogen for flesh, +which is only developed muscle; carbon,—or sugar and +fat, which represent carbon,—for the whole wonderful +course of respiration and circulation. Water, too, must +be in abundance to fill the tiny stomach, which in the +beginning can hold but a spoonful; and to float the blood-corpuscles +through the winding channels whose mysteries, +even now, no man has fully penetrated. Caseine, which +is the solid, nourishing, cheesy part of milk, and abounds +in nitrogen, is also needed; and all the salts and alkalies +that we have found to be necessary in forming perfect +blood. Let us see if milk will meet these wants.</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='right'><b>COMPOSITION OF COW'S MILK.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>(<i>Supposed to contain 1,000 parts.</i>)</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Water</td><td align='right'>870.2</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Caseine</td><td align='right'>44.8</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Butter</td><td align='right'>31.3</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Sugar</td><td align='right'>47.7</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><i>Carried forward</i></td><td align='right'><b>994.0</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'><i>Brought forward</i></td><td align='right'><b>994.0</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Soda }</td><td align='right'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Chloride of sodium and potassium }</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Phosphate of soda and potassa }</td><td align='right'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Phosphate of lime }</td><td align='right'>6.0</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Magnesia }</td><td align='right'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Iron }</td><td align='right'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>Alkaline carbonates }</td><td align='right'></td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'><b>1,000.0</b></td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Mother's milk being nearly the same, having only a +larger proportion of water, will for the first year of our +baby's life meet every demand the system can make. Even +the first teeth are no sign, as ignorant mothers believe, +that the stomach calls for stronger food. They are known, +with reason, as milk-teeth, and the grinders delay their +appearance for months afterward. A little oatmeal, bread +and milk, and various porridges, come in here, that the +bones may harden more rapidly; but that is all. The +baby is in constant motion; and eyes and ears are taking +in the mysteries of the new life, and busy hands testing +properties, and little feet walking into mischief, all day. +This is hardly the place to dwell upon the amount of +knowledge acquired from birth to five years of age; yet +when you consider how the mind is reaching in every +direction, appropriating, investigating, drawing conclusions +which are the foundation of all our after-knowledge, +you will see that the brain is working with an intensity +never afterwards equaled; and, as brain-work means actual +destruction of brain-fiber, how vital it is that food +should be furnished in the right ratio, and made up of the +right elements!</p> + +<p>With the coming of the grinders, and the call of the +<a name="Page_83" id="Page_83"></a>muscles and tissues for stronger food, begins the necessity +for a more varied dietary. Our baby now, from two and +a half to seven years of age, will require daily:—</p> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Daily Requirements"> +<tr><td align='left'>Bread, not less than</td><td align='left'>12 ounces.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Butter</td><td align='left'>1 ounce.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Milk</td><td align='left'>1/2 pint.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Meat</td><td align='left'>2 ounces.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Vegetables</td><td align='left'>6 ounces.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Pudding or gruel</td><td align='left'>6 ounces.</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p>This table is made from the dietaries of various children's +hospitals, where long experiment has settled the +quantities and qualities necessary to health, or, as in these +cases, recovery from sickness, at which time the appetite +is always keener.</p> + +<p>In many cases physicians who have studied the laws +of food, and kept pace with modern experiments in +dietetics, strike out meat altogether till the child is +seven or eight years old, and allow it but once daily +after this time, and in very limited amount. Sir Henry +Thompson, one of the most distinguished of English +physicians, and a man noted for his popularity as diner +out and giver of dinners, writes strenuously against the +prevailing excessive use of meat, and especially protests +against its over use for children; and his opinion is shared +by most thoughtful medical men. The nitrogenous vegetables +advantageously take its place; and cheese, as +prepared after the formulas given in Mattieu Williams's +"Chemistry of Cookery," is a food the value of which +we are but just beginning to appreciate.</p> + +<p>As to quantity, with the healthy child, playing at will, +there need be very little restraint. Few children will eat +too much of perfectly simple food, such as this table +<a name="Page_84" id="Page_84"></a>includes. Let cake or pastry or sweetmeats enter in, +and of course, as long as the thing tastes good, the +child will beg for more. English children are confined +to this simple diet; and though of course a less +exacting climate has much to do with the greater healthfulness +of the English than the American people, the +plain but hearty and regular diet of childhood has far +more.</p> + +<p>Our young American of seven, at a hotel breakfast, +would call for coffee and ham and eggs and sausages and +hot cakes. His English cousin would have no liberty to +call for anything. In fact, it is very doubtful if he would +be brought to table at all; and if there, bread and milk +or oatmeal and milk would form his meal.</p> + +<p>By this time I do not doubt our baby has your heartiest +pity, and you are saying, "What! no snacks? no cooky +nor cake nor candy? no running to aunt or grandmother +or tender-hearted cook for goodies? If that must be so, +half the pleasure of childhood is lost."</p> + +<p>Perhaps; but suppose that with that pleasure some +other things are also lost. Suppose our baby to have +begun life with a nervous, irritable, sensitive organization, +keenly alive to pain, and this hard regimen to have covered +these nerves with firm flesh, and filled the veins with +clean, healthy blood. Suppose headache is unknown, and +loss of appetite, and a bad taste in the mouth, and all the +evils we know so well; and that work and play are easy, +and food of the simplest eaten with solid satisfaction. +The child would choose the pleasant taste, and let health +go, naturally; for a child has small reason, and life must +be ordered for it. But if the mother or father has no +sense or understanding of the laws of food, it is useless to +<a name="Page_85" id="Page_85"></a>hope for the wholesome results that under the diet of our +baby are sure to follow.</p> + +<p>By seven some going to school has begun; and from +this time on the diet, while of the same general character, +may vary more from day to day. Habits of life are fixed +during this time; and even if parents dislike certain articles +of food themselves, it is well to give no sign, but as +far as possible, accustom the child to eat any wholesome +food. We are a wandering people, and sooner or later are +very likely to have circumnavigated the globe, at least in +part. Our baby must have no antipathies, but every good +thing given by Nature shall at least be tolerated. "I never +eat this," or "I never eat that," is a formula that no +educated person has a right to use save when some food +actually hurtful or to which he has a natural repulsion is +presented to him. Certain articles of diet are often +strangely and unaccountably harmful to some. Oysters +are an almost deadly poison to certain constitutions; +milk to others. Cheese has produced the same effect, +and even strawberries; yet all these are luxuries to the +ordinary stomach.</p> + +<p>Usually the thing to guard against most carefully is +gluttony, so far as boys are concerned. With girls the +tendency often is to eat far too little. A false delicacy, +a feeling that paleness and fragility are beautiful and +feminine, inclines the young girl often to eat less than she +desires; and the stomach accustoms itself to the insufficient +supply, till the reception of a reasonable meal is an +impossibility. Or if they eat improper food (hot breads +and much fat and sweets), the same result follows. +Digestion, or rather assimilation, is impossible; and +pasty face and lusterless eyes become the rule. A greedy +<a name="Page_86" id="Page_86"></a>woman is the exception; and yet all schoolgirls know the +temptation to over-eating produced by a box of goodies +from home, or the stronger temptation, after a school-term +has ended, to ravage all cake-boxes and preserve-jars. +Then comes the pill or powder, and the habit of +going to them for a relief which if no excess had been +committed, would have been unnecessary. Patent medicines +are the natural sequence of unwholesome food, and +both are outrages on common-sense.</p> + +<p>We will take it for granted, then, that our baby has +come to boyhood and youth in blissful ignorance of their +names or natures. But as we are not in the least certain +what personal tastes he may have developed, or what form +his life-work is to take,—whether professional or mercantile +or artisan in one of the many trades,—we can now +only give the regimen best adapted for each.</p> + +<p>Supposing his tastes to be scholarly, and a college and +professional career to be chosen, the time has come for +slight changes in the system of diet,—very slight, however. +It has become a popular saying among thinkers +upon these questions, "Without phosphorus, no thinking;" +and like all arbitrary utterances it has done more +harm than good. The amount of phosphorus passing +through the system bears no relation whatever to the +intensity of thought. "A captive lion," to quote from +Dr. Chambers, one of the most distinguished living authorities +on diet, "a leopard, or hare, which can have +wonderfully little to think about, assimilates and parts +with a greater quantity of phosphorus than a professor of +chemistry working hard in his laboratory; while a beaver, +who always seems to be contriving something, excretes so +little phosphorus that chemical analysis cannot detect it."</p> + +<p><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87"></a>Phosphatic salts are demanded, but so are other salts, +fat, and water; and the dietaries that order students to live +upon fish, eggs, and oysters, because they are rich in phosphorus, +without which the brain starves, err just so far as +they make this the sole reason,—the real reason being that +these articles are all easily digested, and that the student, +leading an inactive muscular life, does not require the +heavy, hearty food of the laborer.</p> + +<p>The most perfect regimen for the intellectual life is +precisely what would be advised for the growing boy: +frequent <i>small</i> supplies of easily-digested food, that the +stomach may never be overloaded, or the brain clouded +by the fumes of half-assimilated food. If our boy trains +for a foot-race, rows with the college crew, or goes in for +base-ball, his power as a brain-worker at once diminishes. +Strong muscular action and development hinder continuous +mental work; and the literary life, as a rule, allows no +extremes, demanding only mild exercise and temperance +as its foundation-stones. But our boy can well afford to +develop his muscular system so perfectly that his mild +exercise would seem to the untrained man tolerably heavy +work.</p> + +<p>The rower in a college crew requires six weeks of training +before his muscular power and endurance have reached +their height. Every particle of superfluous fat must be +removed, for fat is not strength, but weakness. There is +a vast difference between the plumpness of good muscular +development and the flabby, heavy overloading of these +muscles with rolls of fat. The chest must be enlarged, +that the lungs may have full play, and be capable of long-continued, +extra draughts upon them; and special diet +and special exercise alone can accomplish these ends.<a name="Page_88" id="Page_88"></a> +All fat-producing foods are struck out, sugar and all +starchy foods coming under this head, as well as all +puddings, pies, cakes, and sweets in general. Our boy, +after a short run, would breakfast on lean, under-done +beef or mutton, dry toast, or the crust of bread, and tea +without milk or sugar; would dine on meat and a little +bread and claret, and sup on more meat and toast, with +cresses or some acid fruit, having rowed twice over the +course in the afternoon, steadily increasing the speed, and +following it by a bath and rub. At least nine hours sleep +must be had; and with this diet, at the end of the training-time +the muscles are hard and firm, the skin wonderfully +pure and clear, and the capacity for long, steady +breathing under exertion, almost unlimited. No better +laws for the reduction of excessive fat can be laid down +for any one.</p> + +<p>Under such a course, severe mental exertion is impossible; +and the return to it requires to be gradual. But +light exercise with dumb-bells, &c., fresh air, walking, +and good food are the conditions of all sound mental +work, whether done by man or woman.</p> + +<p>For the clerk or bookkeeper closely confined to desk or +counter, much the same regimen is needed, with brisk +exercise at the beginning and end of the day,—at least +always walking rather than riding to and from the office +or store; while in all the trades where hard labor is necessary, +heartier food must be the rule. And for all professions +or trades, the summing-up is the same: suitable +food, fresh air, sunlight, and perfect cleanliness,—the +following of these laws insuring the perfect use of every +power to the very end.</p> + +<p>As old age advances, the food-demand lessens naturally.<a name="Page_89" id="Page_89"></a> +Nourishing food is still necessary, but taken in much +smaller quantities and more often, in order that the +waning powers of the stomach may not be overtaxed. +Living on such principles, work can go on till the time +for work is over, and the long sleep comes as quietly as +to a tired child. Simple common-sense and self-control +will free one once for all from the fear, too often hanging +over middle life, of a paralytic and helpless invalidism, +or the long train of apoplectic symptoms often the portion +even of middle life.</p> + +<p>I omit detail as to the character and effects of tea, +coffee, alcohol, &c, such details coming in the chapters +on the chemistry of food.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X" /><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<h2>THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD.</h2> + + +<p>Animal food has a wider range than is usually +included under that head. The vegetarian who +announces that no animal food is allowed upon his table +offers a meal in which one finds milk, eggs, butter, and +cheese,—all forms of animal food, and all strongly +nourishing. A genuine vegetarian, if consistent, would +be forced to reject all of these; and it has already been +attempted in several large water-cures by enthusiasts who +have laid aside their common-sense, and resigned with it +some of the most essential forces for life and work. +Meat may often be entirely renounced, or eaten only at +rare intervals, with great advantage to health and working +power, but the dietary for the varied nourishment +which seems demanded must include butter, cheese, eggs, +and milk.</p> + +<p>Meats will be regarded as essential by the majority, +and naturally they come first in considering food; and +beef is taken as the standard, being identical in composition +with the structures of the human body.</p> + +<p>BEEF, if properly fed, is in perfection at seven years old. +It should then be a light red on the cut surface, a darker +red near the bone, and slightly marbled with fat. Beef +contains, in a hundred parts, nearly twenty of nitrogen, +<a name="Page_91" id="Page_91"></a>seventy-two of water, four of fat, and the remainder in +salts of various descriptions. The poorer the quality of +the beef, the more it will waste in cooking; and its appearance +before cooking is also very different from that of the +first quality, which, though looking moist, leaves no stain +upon the hand. In poor beef, the watery part seems to +separate from the rest, which lies in a pool of serous bloody +fluid. The gravy from such beef is pale and poor in flavor; +while the fat, which in healthy beef is firm and of a delicate +yellow, in the inferior quality is dark yellow and of rank +smell and taste. Beef is firmer in texture and more satisfying +to the stomach than any other form of meat, and is +usually considered more strengthening.</p> + +<p>MUTTON is a trifle more digestible, however. A healthy +person would not notice this, the digestive power in health +being more than is necessary for the ordinary meal; but +the dyspeptic will soon find that mutton gives his stomach +less work. Its composition is very nearly the same as that +of beef; and both when cooked, either by roasting or +boiling, lose about a third of their substance, and come +to us with twenty-seven parts of nitrogen, fifteen of fat, +fifty-four of water, and three of salty matters.</p> + +<p>Mountain sheep and cattle have the finest-flavored meat, +and are also richest in nitrogenous matter. The mountain +mutton of Virginia and North Carolina is as famous as +the English Southdown; but proper feeding anywhere will +make a new thing of the ordinary beef and mutton. +When our cattle are treated with decent humanity,—not +driven days with scant food and water, and then packed +into cars with no food and no water, and driven at last to +slaughter feverish and gasping in anguish that we have no +right to permit for one moment,—we may expect tender, +<a name="Page_92" id="Page_92"></a>wholesome, well-flavored meat. It is astonishing that +under present conditions it can be as good as it is.</p> + +<p>In well-fed animals, the fat forms about a third of the +weight, the largest part being in the loin. In mutton, one-half +is fat; in pork, three-quarters; while poultry and +game have very little.</p> + +<p>The amount of bone varies very greatly. The loin +and upper part of the leg have least; nearly half the +entire weight being in the shin, and a tenth in the carcass. +In the best mutton and pork, the bones are smaller, and +fat much greater in proportion to size.</p> + +<p>VEAL and LAMB, like all young meats, are much less +digestible than beef or mutton. Both should have very +white, clear fat; and if that about the kidneys is red or +discolored, the meat should be rejected. Veal has but +sixteen parts of nitrogenous matter to sixty-three of +water, and the bones contain much more gelatine than is +found in older animals. But in all bones much useful +carbon and nitrogen is found; three pounds of bone yielding +as much carbon, and six pounds as much nitrogen, as +one pound of meat. Carefully boiled, this nutriment can +all be extracted, and flavored with vegetables, form the +basis of an endless variety of soups.</p> + +<p>PORK is of all meats the most difficult to digest, containing +as it does so large a proportion of fat. In a +hundred parts of the meat, only nine of nitrogen are found, +fat being forty-eight and water thirty-nine, with but two +of salty matters. Bacon properly cured is much more +digestible than pork, the smoke giving it certain qualities +not existing in uncured pork. No food has yet been +found which can take its place for army and navy use or +in pioneering. Beef when salted or smoked loses much of +<a name="Page_93" id="Page_93"></a>its virtue, and eight ounces of fat pork will give nearly +three times as much carbon or heat-food as the same +amount of beef; but its use is chiefly for the laborer, and +it should have only occasional place in the dietary of +sedentary persons.</p> + +<p>The pig is liable to many most unpleasant diseases, +measles and trichina spiralis being the most fatal to the +eaters of meat thus affected; but the last—a small animalcule +of deadly effect if taken alive into the human +stomach, as is done in eating raw ham or sausage—becomes +harmless if the same meat is long and thoroughly +boiled. Never be tempted into eating raw ham or sausage; +and in using pork in any form, try to have some +knowledge of the pig. A clean, well-fed pig in a well-kept +stye is a wonderfully different object from the +hideous beast grunting its way in many a Southern or +Western town, feeding on offal and sewage, and rolling +in filth. Such meat is unfit for human consumption, and +the eating of it insures disease.</p> + +<p>We come now to another form of meat, that of edible +ENTRAILS. This includes <i>Tripe</i>, <i>Haslet</i>, or lights, &c. +More nitrogen is found here than in any other portion of +the meat. The cheap and abundant supply in this country +has made us, as a people, reject all but the liver. In the +country, the sweetbreads or pancreas are often thrown +away, and tripe also. The European peasant has learned +to utilize every scrap; and while such use should not be +too strongly urged, it is certain that this meat is far better +than <i>no</i> meat. Fully one-third of the animals' weight +comes under this head,—that is, feet, tail, head, and +tongue, lungs, liver, spleen, omentum, pancreas, and +heart, together with the intestines. The rich man is +<a name="Page_94" id="Page_94"></a>hardly likely to choose much of this food, the tongue and +sweetbreads being the only dainty bits; but there are +wholesome and savory dishes to be made from every part, +and the knowledge of their preparation may be of greatest +value to a poorer neighbor. Both ox-tails and head make +excellent soup. Tripe, the inner lining of the stomach, +is, if properly prepared, not only appetizing but pleasant +to the eye. Calves' feet make good jelly; and pigs' +feet, ears, and head are soused or made into scrapple. +Blood-puddings are much eaten by Germans, but we are +not likely to adopt their use. Fresh blood has, however, +been found of wonderful effect for consumptive patients; +and there are certain slaughter-houses in our large cities +where every day pale invalids are to be found waiting for +the goblet of almost living food from the veins of the +still warm animal. Horrible as it seems, the taste for it +is soon acquired; and certainly the good results warrant +at least the effort to acquire it.</p> + +<p>VENISON comes next in the order of meats, but is more +like game than any ordinary butchers' meat. It is lean, +dark in color, and savory, and if well cooked, very +digestible.</p> + +<p>POULTRY are of more importance to us than game, and +the flesh, containing less nitrogen, is not so stimulating as +beef or mutton. Old fowls are often tough and indigestible, +and have often, also, a rank flavor like a close hen-house, +produced by the absorption into the flesh of the +oil intended by nature to lubricate the feathers.</p> + +<p>GAME contains even less fat than poultry, and is considered +more strengthening. The flesh of rabbits and +hares is more like poultry or game than meat, but is too +close in fiber to be as digestible. Pigeons and many +<a name="Page_95" id="Page_95"></a>other birds come under none of the heads given. As a +rule, flesh is tender in proportion to the smallness of the +animal, and many varieties are eaten for the description +of which we have no room here.</p> + +<p>FISH forms the only animal food for a large part of the +world. It does not possess the satisfying or stimulating +properties belonging to flesh, yet the inhabitants of fishing-towns +are shown to be unusually strong and healthy. +The flesh of some fish is white, and of others red; the red +holding much more oil, and being therefore less digestible. +In <i>Salmon</i>, the most nutritious of all fishes, there +are, in a hundred parts, sixteen of nitrogen, six of fat, +nearly two of saline matter, and seventy-seven of water. +<i>Eels</i> contain thirteen parts of fat. <i>Codfish</i>, the best-known +of all the white fish, vary greatly, according to the +time of year in which they are taken, being much more +digestible in season than out (i.e., from October to May). +<i>Mackerel</i> and <i>Herring</i> both abound in oil, the latter especially, +giving not only relish to the Irishman's potato, but +the carbon he needs as heat-food. <i>Shell-fish</i> are far less +digestible, the <i>Oyster</i> being the only exception. The nitrogenous +matter in oysters is fourteen parts, of fatty matter +one and a half, of saline matter two, and of water eighty. +At the time of spawning—from May to September—they +lose their good condition, and become unwholesome. +<i>Lobsters</i> rank next in importance, and are more delicate +and finer-flavored than <i>Crabs</i>. Both are, however, very +difficult of digestion, and should only be used occasionally. +The many forms of pickled and smoked fish are convenient, +but always less wholesome than fresh.</p> + +<p>MILK comes next, and has already been considered in +a previous chapter. It is sometimes found to disagree +<a name="Page_96" id="Page_96"></a>with the stomach, but usually because looked upon as +drink and not as real food, the usual supply of which is +taken, forgetful of the fact that a glass or two of milk +contains as much nourishment as two-thirds of the average +meal. The nitrogenous matter in milk is known as +caseine, and it is this which principally forms cheese.</p> + +<p>CHEESE is commonly considered only a relish, but is in +reality one of the most condensed forms of nitrogenous +food; and a growing knowledge of its value has at last +induced the Army Department to add it to the army ration +list. Mattieu Williams, after giving the chemical formulas +of caseine and the other elements of cheese, writes; +"I have good and sufficient reasons for thus specifying the +properties of this constituent of food. I regard it as the +most important of all that I have to describe in connection +with my subject,—The Science of Cookery. It +contains, as I shall presently show, more nutritious material +than any other food that is ordinarily obtainable, +and its cookery is singularly neglected,—practically an +unknown art, especially in this country. We commonly +eat it raw, although in its raw state it is peculiarly indigestible, +and in the only cooked form familiarly known +among us here, that of Welsh rabbit or rare-bit, it is too +often rendered still more indigestible, though this need +not be the case. Cream-cheese is the richest form, but +keeps less well than that of milk. Stilton, the finest +English brand, is made partly of cream, partly of milk, +and so with various other foreign brands, Gruyere, &c. +Parmesan is delicately flavored with fine herbs, and retains +this flavor almost unaltered by age. Our American +cheeses now rank with the best foreign ones, and will +grow more and more in favor as their value is understood, +<a name="Page_97" id="Page_97"></a>this being their strongly nitrogenous character. A cheese +of twenty pounds weight contains as much food as a sheep +weighing sixty pounds, as it hangs in the butcher's shop. +In Dutch and factory cheeses, where the curd has been precipitated +by hydrochloric acid, the food value is less than +where rennet is used; but even in this case, it is far beyond +meat in actual nutritive power."</p> + +<p>BUTTER is a purely carbonaceous or heat-giving food, +being the fatty part of the milk, which rises in cream. It +is mentioned in the very earliest history, and the craving +for it seems to be universal. Abroad it is eaten without +salt; but to keep it well, salt is a necessity, and its absence +soon allows the development of a rank and unpleasant +odor. In other words, butter without it becomes rancid; +and if any particle of whey is allowed to remain in it, the +same effect takes place.</p> + +<p>Perfect butter is golden in color, waxy in consistency, +and with a sweetness of odor quite indescribable, yet +unmistakable to the trained judge of butter. It possesses +the property of absorption of odors in a curious degree; +and if shut in a tight closet or a refrigerator with fish, +meat, or vegetables of rank or even pronounced smell, +exchanges its own delicate aroma for theirs, and reaches +us bereft once for all of what is the real charm of perfect +butter. For this reason absolute cleanliness and daintiness +of vessels containing milk or cream, or used in any +way in the manufacture of butter, is one of the first laws +of the dairy.</p> + +<p><i>Ghee</i>, the East-Indian form of butter, is simply fresh +butter clarified by melting, and is used as a dressing for +the meal of rice. Butter, though counted as a pure fat, +is in reality made up of at least six fatty principles, there +<a name="Page_98" id="Page_98"></a>being sixty-eight per cent of margarine and thirty per cent +of oleine, the remainder being volatile compounds of fatty +acids. In the best specimens of butter there is a slight +amount of caseine, not over five per cent at most, though +in poor there is much more. It is the only fat which may +be constantly eaten without harm to the stomach, though +if not perfectly good it becomes an irritant.</p> + +<p>The <i>Drippings</i> of roasted meat, more especially of beef, +rank next in value; and <i>Lard</i> comes last on the list, its +excessive use being a serious evil. Eaten constantly, as +in pastry or the New-England doughnut, it is not only +indigestible, but becomes the source of forms of scrofulous +disease. It is often a convenient substitute for butter, +but if it must be used, would better be in connection with +the harmless fat.</p> + +<p>Eggs come last; and as a young animal is developed +from them, it follows that they contain all that is necessary +for animal life, though in the case of the chicken +the shell also is used, all the earthy matter being absorbed. +In a hundred parts are found fourteen of nitrogen, ten +and a half of fatty matter, one and a half of saline +matter, and seventy-four of water. Of this water the +largest part is contained in the white, which is almost +pure albumen, each particle of albumen being enclosed in +very thin-walled cells; it is the breaking of these cells +and the admission of air that enables one to beat the +white of egg to a stiff froth. The fat is accumulated in +the yolk, often amounting to thirty per cent. Raw and +lightly-boiled eggs are easy of digestion, but hard-boiled +ones decidedly not so. An egg loses its freshness within +a day or so. The shell is porous; and the always-feeding +and destroying oxygen of the air quickly gains admis<a name="Page_99" id="Page_99"></a>sion, +causing a gradual decomposition. To preserve +them, they must be coated with lard or gum, or packed +in either salt or oats, points down. In this way they +keep good a long time, and while hardly desirable to eat +as boiled eggs, answer for many purposes in cooking.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI" /><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<h2>THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD.</h2> + + +<p>We come now to the vegetable kingdom, the principal +points that we are to consider arranging themselves +somewhat as follows:—</p> + +<p> +Farinaceous seeds,<br /> +Oleaginous seeds,<br /> +Leguminous seeds,<br /> +Tubers and roots,<br /> +Herbaceous articles,<br /> +Fruits,<br /> +Saccharine and farinaceous preparations.<br /> +</p> + +<p>Under the first head, that of farinaceous seeds, are included +wheat, rye, oats, Indian corn, rice, and a variety +of less-known grains, all possessing in greater or less +degree the same constituents. It will be impossible to +more than touch upon many of them; and wheat must +stand as the representative, being the best-known and +most widely used of all grains. Each one is made up +of nitrogenous compounds, gluten, albumen, caseine, and +fibrine, gluten being the most valuable. Starch, dextrine, +sugar, and cellulose are also found; fatty matter, which +gives the characteristic odor of grain; mineral substances, +as phosphates of lime and magnesia, salts of potash and +soda, and silica, which we shall shortly mention again.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101"></a><i>Hard Wheat</i>, or that grown in hot climates and on +fertile soil, has much more nitrogen than that of colder +countries. In hard wheat, in a hundred parts, twenty-two +will be of nitrogen, fifty-nine starch, ten dextrine, +&c, four cellulose, two and a half of fatty matter, and +three of mineral, thus giving many of the constituents +found in animal food.</p> + +<p>This wheat is taken as bread, white or brown, biscuits, +crackers, various preparations of the grain whether whole +or crushed, and among the Italians as <i>macaroni</i>, the most +condensed form of cereal food. The best macaroni is +made from the red wheat grown along the Mediterranean +Sea, a hot summer and warm climate producing a grain, +rich, as already mentioned, in nitrogen, and with a smaller +proportion of water than farther north. The intense +though short summer of our own far North-west seems to +bring somewhat the same result, but the outer husk is +harder. This husk was for years considered a necessity +in all really nutritious bread; and a generation of vegetarians +taking their name from Dr. Graham, and known +as Grahamites, conceived the idea of living upon the +wheaten flour in which husk and kernel were ground +together. Now, to stomachs and livers brought to great +grief by persistent pie and doughnuts and some other +New-England wickednesses, these husks did a certain +office of stimulation, stirring up jaded digestions, and +really seeming to arrest or modify long-standing dyspepsia. +But they did not know what we do, that this +outer husk is a layer of pure silica, one of the hardest +of known minerals. Boil it six weeks, and it comes +out unchanged. Boil it six years, or six centuries, and +the result would be the same. You can not stew a +<a name="Page_102" id="Page_102"></a>grindstone or bring granite to porridge, and the wheat-husk +is equally obstinate. So long as enthusiasts ate +husk and kernel ground together, little harm was done. +But when a more progressive soul declared that in bran +alone the true nutriment lay, and a host of would-be +healthier people proceeded to eat bran and preach bran, +there came a time when eating and preaching both stopped, +from sheer want of strength to go on. The enthusiasts +were literally starving themselves to death—for starvation +is by no means mere deprivation of food: on the contrary, +a man may eat heartily to the day of his death, and +feel no inconvenience, so far as any protest of the stomach +is concerned, yet the verdict of the wise physician would +be, "Died of starvation." If the food was unsuitable, +and could not be assimilated, this was inevitable. Blood, +muscle, nerve—each must have its fitting food; and thus +it is easy to see why knowledge is the first condition of +healthful living. The moral is: Never rashly experiment +in diet till sure what you are about, and, if you can not for +yourselves find out the nature of your projected food, call +upon some one who can.</p> + +<p>Where wheat is ground whole, it includes six and a +half parts of heat-producers to one of flesh-formers. The +amount of starch varies greatly. Two processes of making +flour are now in use,—one the old, or St. Louis process; +the other, the "new process," giving Haxall flour. +In the former, grindstones were used, which often reached +so great a degree of heat as to injure the flour; and repeated +siftings gave the various grades. In the new, the outer +husk is rejected, and a system of knives is used, which +chop the grain to powder, and it is claimed do not heat it. +The product is more starchy, and for this reason less +<a name="Page_103" id="Page_103"></a>desirable. We eat far too much heat-producing food, and +any thing which gives us the gluten of the grain is more +wholesome, and thus "seconds" is really a more nutritious +flour than the finer grades. Try for yourselves a +small experiment, and you will learn the nature of flour +better than in pages of description.</p> + +<p>Take a little flour; wet it with cold water enough to +form a dough. Place it on a sieve, and, while working it +with one hand, pour a steady stream of water over it with +another. Shortly you will find a grayish, tough, elastic +lump before you, while in the pan below, when the water +is carefully poured off, will be pure wheat-starch, the +water itself containing all the sugar, dextrine or gum, +and mineral matter. This toughness and elasticity of +gluten is an important quality; for in bread-making, were +it not for the gluten, the carbonic-acid gas formed by the +action of yeast on dough would all escape. But, though +it works its way out vigorously enough to swell up each +cell, the gluten binds it fast, and enables us to have a +panful of light "sponge," where a few hours before was +only a third of a pan.</p> + +<p>Starch, as you have seen, will not dissolve in the cold +water. Dry it, after the water is poured on, and minute +grains remain. Look at these grains under a microscope, +and each one is cased in a thick skin, which cold water +can not dissolve. In boiling water, the skins crack, and +the inside swells and becomes gummy. Long boiling is +thus an essential for all starchy foods.</p> + +<p>Bread proper is simply flour, water, and salt, mixed to +a firm dough and baked. Such bread as this, Abram +gave to his angelic guests, and at this day the Bedouin +Arab bakes it on his heated stone. But bread, as we un<a name="Page_104" id="Page_104"></a>derstand +it, is always lightened by the addition of yeast +or some form of baking-powder, yeast making the most +wholesome as well as most palatable bread. Carbonic-acid +gas is the active agent required; and yeast so acts upon the +little starch-granules, which the microscope shows as forming +the finest flour, that this gas is formed and evenly +distributed through the whole dough. The process is +slow, and in the action some of the natural sweetness of +the flour is lost. In what is known as aërated bread, +the gas made was forced directly into the dough, by means +of a machine invented for the purpose; and a very scientific +and very good bread it is. But it demands an apparatus +not to be had save at great expense, and the older +fashions give a sufficiently sweet and desirable bread.</p> + +<p><i>Rye</i> and <i>Indian Corn</i> form the next best-known varieties +of flour in bread-making; but barley and oats are +also used, and beans, pease, rice, chestnuts, in short, any +farinaceous seed, or legume rich in starch, can fill the +office.</p> + +<p><i>Oatmeal</i> may take rank as one of the best and most +digestible forms of farinaceous food. Some twenty-eight +per cent of the grain is husk, seventy-two being kernel; +and this kernel forms a meal containing twelve parts of +nitrogenous matter, sixty-three of carbo-hydrates, five +and a half of fatty matter, three of saline, and fifteen of +water. So little gluten is found, that the flour of oats +can not be made into loaves of bread; although, mixed and +baked as thin cakes, it forms a large part of the Scotchman's +food. It requires thorough cooking, and is then +slightly laxative and very easily digested.</p> + +<p><i>Buckwheat</i> is very rich in nitrogenous substances, and +as we eat it, in the form of cakes with butter and sirup, +<a name="Page_105" id="Page_105"></a>so heating a food, as to be only suitable for hard workers +in cold weather.</p> + +<p>Indian corn has also a very small proportion of gluten, +and thus makes a bread which crumbles too readily. But +it is the favorite form of bread, not only for South and +West in our own country, but in Spanish America, Southern +Europe, Germany, and Ireland. It contains a larger +amount of fatty matter than any other grain, this making +it a necessity in fattening animals. In a hundred parts +are eleven of nitrogen, sixty-five of carbo-hydrates, eight +of fatty matter, one and a half of saline, and fourteen +of water. The large amount of fatty matter makes it +difficult to keep much meal on hand, as it grows rancid +and breeds worms; and it is best that it should be ground +in small quantities as required.</p> + +<p><i>Rice</i> abounds in starch. In a hundred parts are found +seven and a half of nitrogen, eighty-eight of starch, one +of dextrine, eight-tenths of fatty matter, one of cellulose, +and nine-tenths of mineral matter. Taken alone it can +not be called a nutritive food; but eaten with butter or +milk and eggs, or as by the East Indians in curry, it holds +an important place.</p> + +<p>We come now to OLEAGINOUS SEEDS; nuts, the cocoanut, +almonds, &c, coming under this head. While they +are rich in oil, this very fact makes them indigestible, and +they should be eaten sparingly.</p> + +<p><i>Olive-oil</i> must find mention here. No fat of either the +animal or vegetable kingdom surpasses this in delicacy +and purity. Palm-oil fills its place with the Asiatics in +part; but the olive has no peer in this respect, and we +lose greatly in our general distaste for this form of food. +The liking for it should be encouraged as decidedly as +<a name="Page_106" id="Page_106"></a>the liking for butter. It is less heating, more soothing to +the tissues, and from childhood to old age its liberal use +prevents many forms of disease, as well as equalizes digestion +in general.</p> + +<p>LEGUMINOUS SEEDS are of more importance, embracing +as they do the whole tribe of beans, pease, and lentils. +Twice as much nitrogen is found in beans as in wheat; +and they rank so near to animal food, that by the addition +of a little fat they practically can take its place. +Bacon and beans have thus been associated for centuries, +and New England owes to Assyria the model for the present +Boston bean-pot. In the best table-bean, either +Lima or the butter-bean, will be found in a hundred +parts, thirty of nitrogen, fifty-six of starch, one and a +half of cellulose, two of fatty matter, three and a half +of saline, and eight and a half of water. The proportion +of nitrogen is less in pease, but about the same in +lentils. The chestnut also comes under this head, and is +largely eaten in Spain and Italy, either boiled, or dried +and ground into flour.</p> + +<p>TUBERS and ROOTS follow, and of these the <i>Potato</i> leads +the van. Low as you may have noticed their standing +on the food-table to be, they are the most economical and +valuable of foods, combining as well with others, and as +little cloying to the palate, as bread itself. Each pound +of potatoes contains seven hundred and seventy grains of +carbon, and twenty-four grains of nitrogen; each pound +of wheat-flour, two thousand grains of carbon, and one +hundred and twenty of nitrogen. But the average cost +of the pound of potatoes is but one cent; that of the +pound of wheat, four. It is obtainable at all seasons, and +thus invaluable as a permanent store, though best in the +<a name="Page_107" id="Page_107"></a>winter. Spring, the germinating season, diminishes its +nutritive value. New potatoes are less nutritious than +older ones, and in cooking, if slightly underdone, are said +to satisfy the appetite better; this being the reason why +the laboring classes prefer them, as they say, "with a +bone in them."</p> + +<p>In a hundred parts are found but two of nitrogen, +eighteen of starch, three of sugar, two-tenths of fat, +seven-tenths of saline matter, and seventy-five parts of +water. The <i>Sweet-potato</i>, <i>Yam</i>, and <i>Artichoke</i> are all of +the same character. Other <i>Tubers</i>, the <i>Turnip</i>, <i>Beet</i>, <i>Carrot</i>, +and <i>Parsnip</i>, are in ordinary use. The turnip is nine-tenths +water, but possesses some valuable qualities. The +beet, though also largely water, has also a good deal of +sugar, and is excellent food. Carrots and parsnips are +much alike in composition. Carrots are generally rejected +as food, but properly cooked are very appetizing, their +greatest use, however, being in soups and stews.</p> + +<p>HERBACEOUS ARTICLES follow; and, though we are not +accustomed to consider <i>Cabbage</i> as an herb, it began +existence as cole-wort, a shrub or herb on the south coast +of England. Cultivation has developed it into a firm +round head; and as a vegetable, abounding as it does in +nitrogen, it ranks next to beans as a food. <i>Cauliflower</i> +is a very delicate and highly prized form of cabbage, but +cabbage itself can be so cooked as to strongly resemble +it.</p> + +<p><i>Onions</i> are next in value, being much milder and +sweeter when grown in a warm climate, but used chiefly +as a flavoring. <i>Lettuce</i> and <i>Celery</i> are especially valuable; +the former for salads, the latter to be eaten without +dressing though it is excellent cooked. <i>Tomatoes</i> are +<a name="Page_108" id="Page_108"></a>really a fruit, though eaten as a vegetable, and are of +especial value as a cooling food. Egg-plant, cucumbers, +&c., all demand space; and so with edible fungi, +mushrooms, and truffles, the latter the property of the +epicure, and really not so desirable as that fact would +indicate.</p> + +<p>FRUITS are last in order; and among these stands first +of all the apple. While in actual analysis fruits have +less nutritive value than vegetables, their acids and salts +give to them the power of counteracting the unhealthy +states brought about by the long use of dried or salted +provisions. They are a corrective also of the many evils +arising from profuse meat-eating, the citric acid of lemons +and grape-fruit being an antidote to rheumatic and gouty +difficulties. Cold storage now enables one to command +grapes long after their actual season has ended, and they +are invaluable food. The brain-worker is learning to +depend more and more on fruit in all its forms; and +apples lead the list, containing more solid nutriment than +any other form. While considered less digestible raw than +baked, they are still one of the most attractive, life-giving +forms of food, and if eaten daily would prove a standard +antidote to patent medicine. The list of fruits is too +long for mention here; but all have their specific uses, +and are necessary to perfect health.</p> + +<p>SUGAR and HONEY follow in the stores of the vegetable +kingdom. Cane-sugar and glucose, or grape-sugar, are the +two recognized varieties, though the making of beet-sugar +has become an industry here as well as in France. Grape-sugar +requires to be used in five times the amount of cane, +to secure the same degree of sweetness. Honey also is a +food,—a concentrated solution of sugar, mixed with +<a name="Page_109" id="Page_109"></a>odorous, gummy, and waxy matters. It possesses much +the same food value as sugar, and is easily digested.</p> + +<p>With the various FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS, <i>Sago</i>, +<i>Tapioca</i>,<i> Arrow-root</i>, &c, the vegetable dietary ends. +All are light, digestible foods, principally starchy in character, +but with little nutriment unless united with milk +or eggs. Their chief use is in the sick-room.</p> + +<p>Restricted as comment must be, each topic introduced +will well reward study; and the story of each of these +varied ingredients in cookery, if well learned, will give +one an unsuspected range of thought, and a new sense of +the wealth that may be hidden in very common things.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII" /><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<h2>CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES.</h2> + + +<p>Condiments are simply seasoning or flavoring +agents, and, though hardly coming under the head of +food, yet have an important part to play. As food by +their use is rendered more tempting, a larger amount is +consumed, and thus a delicate or uncertain appetite is +often aided. In some cases they have the power of correcting +the injurious character of some foods.</p> + +<p>Salt stands foremost. Vinegar, lemon-juice, and pickles +owe their value to acidity; while mustard, pepper +black and red, ginger, curry-powder, and horse-radish all +depend chiefly upon pungency. Under the head of aromatic +condiments are ranged cinnamon, nutmegs, cloves, +allspice, mint, thyme, fennel, sage, parsley, vanilla, leeks, +onions, shallots, garlic, and others, all of them entering +into the composition of various sauces in general use.</p> + +<p>Salt is the one thing indispensable. The old Dutch law +condemned criminals to a diet of unsalted food, the effects +being said to be those of the severest physical torture. +Years ago an experiment tried near Paris demonstrated +the necessity of its use. A number of cattle were fed +without the ration of salt; an equal number received it +regularly. At the end of a specified time, the unsalted +animals were found rough of coat, the hair falling off in +<a name="Page_111" id="Page_111"></a>spots, the eyes wild, and the flesh hardly half the amount +of those naturally fed.</p> + +<p>A class of extreme Grahamites in this country decry +the use of salt, as well as of any form of animal food; and +I may add that the expression of their thought in both +written and spoken speech is as savorless as their diet.</p> + +<p>Salt exists, as we have already found, in the blood: +the craving for it is a universal instinct, even buffaloes +making long journeys across the plains to the salt-licks; +and its use not only gives character to insipid food, but +increases the flow of the gastric juice.</p> + +<p>Black pepper, if used profusely as is often done in +American cooking, becomes an irritant, and produces indigestion. +Red pepper, or cayenne, on the contrary, is a +useful stimulant at times; but, as with mustard, any over-use +irritates the lining of the stomach.</p> + +<p>So with spices and sweet herbs. There should be only +such use of them as will flavor well, delicately, and almost +imperceptibly. No one flavor should predominate, and +only a sense of general savoriness rule. Extracts, as of +vanilla, lemon, bitter almond, &c., should be used with +the greatest care, and if possible always be added to an +article after it cools, as the heat wastes the strength.</p> + + +<p>BEVERAGES.</p> + +<p>Tea and coffee are the most universal drinks, after water. +The flavor of both is due to a principle, <i>theine</i> in tea, +<i>caffeine</i> in coffee, in which both the good and the ill effects +of these drinks are bound up. It is hardly necessary the +principles should have different names, as they have been +found by chemists to be identical; the essential spirit of +cocoa and chocolate,—<i>theobromine</i>,—though not identical, +having many of the same properties.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112"></a><i>Tea</i> is valuable chiefly for its warming and comforting +qualities. Taken in moderation, it acts partly as a sedative, +partly as a stimulant, arresting the destruction of +tissue, and seeming to invigorate the whole nervous system. +The water in it, even if impure, is made wholesome +by boiling, and the milk and sugar give a certain +amount of real nourishment. Nervous headaches are +often cured by it, and it has, like coffee, been used as an +antidote in opium-poisoning.</p> + +<p>Pass beyond the point of moderation, and it becomes +an irritant, precisely in the same way that an overdose of +morphine will, instead of putting to sleep, for just so much +longer time prevent any sleep at all. The woman who +can not eat, and who braces her nerves with a cup of green +tea,—the most powerful form of the herb,—is doing a +deeper wrong than she may be able to believe. The immediate +effect is delightful. Lightness, exhilaration, and +sense of energy are all there; but the re-action comes +surely, and only a stronger dose next time accomplishes +the end desired. Nervous headaches, hysteria in its +thousand forms, palpitations, and the long train of nervous +symptoms, own inordinate tea and coffee drinking as their +parent. Taken in reasonable amounts, tea can not be said +to be hurtful; and the medium qualities, carefully prepared, +often make a more wholesome tea than that of the +highest price, the harmful properties being strongest in +the best. If the water is soft, it should be used as soon +as boiled, boiling causing all the gases which give flavor +to water to escape. In hard water, boiling softens it. In +all cases the water must be fresh, and poured boiling upon +the proper portion of tea,—the teapot having first been +well scalded with boiling water. Never boil any tea but<a name="Page_113" id="Page_113"></a> +English-breakfast tea; for all others, simple steeping gives +the drink in perfection.</p> + +<p>A disregard of these rules gives one the rank, black, +unpleasant infusion too often offered as tea; while, if +boiled in tin, it becomes a species of slow poison,—the +tannic acid in the tea acting upon the metal, and producing +a chemical compound whose character it is hard +to determine. Various other plants possess the essential +principle of tea, and are used as such; as in Paraguay, +where the Brazilian holly is dried, and makes a tea very +exhilarating in quality, but much more astringent.</p> + +<p>The use of <i>Coffee</i> dates back even farther than that of +tea. Of the many varieties, Mocha and Java are finest in +flavor, and a mixture of one-third Mocha with two-thirds +Java gives the drink at its best. As in tea, there are three +chief constituents: (1) A volatile oil, giving the aroma +it possesses, but less in amount than that in tea. (2) +Astringent matter,—a modification of tannin, but also +less than in tea. (3) Caffeine, now found identical with +theine, but varying in amount in different varieties of coffee,—being +in some three or four per cent, in others less.</p> + +<p>The most valuable property of coffee is its power of +relieving the sensation of hunger and fatigue. To the +soldier on active service, nothing can take its place; and +in our own army it became the custom often, not only to +drink the infusion, but, if on a hard march, to eat the +grounds also. In all cases it diminishes the waste of +tissue. In hot weather it is too heating and stimulating, +acting powerfully upon the liver, and, by producing over-activity +of that organ, bringing about a general disturbance.</p> + +<p>So many adulterations are found in ground coffee, that it +<a name="Page_114" id="Page_114"></a>is safest for the real coffee-lover to buy the bean whole. +Roasting is usually more perfectly done at the grocers', in +their rotary roasters, which give every grain its turn; but, +by care and constant stirring, it can be accomplished at +home. Too much boiling dissipates the delicious aroma +we all know; and the best methods are considered to be +those which allow no boiling, after boiling water has been +poured upon it, but merely a standing, to infuse and +settle. The old fashion, however, of mixing with an egg, +and boiling a few minutes, makes a coffee hardly inferior +in flavor. In fact, the methods are many, but results, +under given conditions, much the same; and we may +choose urn, or old-fashioned tin pot, or a French biggin, +with the certainty that good coffee, well roasted, boiling +water, and good judgment as to time, will give always +a delicious drink. Make a note of the fact that long +boiling sets free tannic acid, powerful enough to literally +tan the coats of the stomach, and bring on incurable dyspepsia. +Often coffee without milk can be taken, where, +with milk, it proves harmful; but, in all cases, moderation +must rule. Taken too strong, palpitation of the heart, +vertigo, and fainting are the usual consequences.</p> + +<p><i>Cocoa</i>, or, literally, cacao, from the cacao-tree, comes +in the form of a thick seed, twenty or thirty of which +make up the contents of a gourd-like fruit, the spaces between +being filled with a somewhat acid pulp. The seeds, +when freed from this pulp by various processes, are first +dried in the sun, and then roasted; and from these roasted +seeds come various forms of cocoa.</p> + +<p><i>Cocoa-shells</i> are the outer husk, and by long boiling +yield a pleasant and rather nutritious drink. Cocoa itself +is the nut ground to powder, and sometimes mixed with +sugar, the husk being sometimes ground with it.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115"></a>In <i>Chocolate</i>—a preparation of cocoa—the cocoa is +carefully dried and roasted, and then ground to a smooth +paste, the nuts being placed on a hot iron plate, and so +keeping the oily matter to aid in forming a paste. Sugar +and flavorings, as vanilla, are often added, and the whole +pressed into cakes. The whole substance of the nut +being used, it is exceedingly nutritious, and made more +so by the milk and sugar added. Eaten with bread it +forms not only a nourishing but a hearty meal; and so +condensed is its form, that a small cake carried in traveling, +and eaten with a cracker or two, will give temporarily +the effect of a full meal.</p> + +<p>In a hundred parts of chocolate are found forty-eight of +fatty matter or cocoa-butter, twenty-one of nitrogenous +matter, four of theobromine, eleven of starch, three of cellulose, +three of mineral matter, and ten of water; there +being also traces of coloring matter, aromatic essence, and +sugar. Twice as much nitrogenous, and twenty-five times +as much fatty matter as wheaten flour, make it a valuable +food, though the excess of fat will make it disagree with +a very delicate stomach.</p> + +<p><i>Alcohol</i> is last upon our list, and scientific men are +still uncertain whether or not it can in any degree be considered +as a food; but we have no room for the various +arguments for and against. You all know, in part at least, +the effects of intemperance; and even the moderate daily +drinker suffers from clouded mind, irritable nerves, and +ruined digestion.</p> + +<p>This is not meant as an argument for total abstinence; +but there are cases where such abstinence is the only rule. +In an inherited tendency to drink, there is no other safe +road; but to the man or woman who lives by law, and +<a name="Page_116" id="Page_116"></a>whose body is in the best condition, wine in its many +forms is a permissible <i>occasional</i> luxury, and so with beer +and cider and the wide range of domestic drinks. In old +age its use is almost essential, but always in moderation, +individual temperament modifying every rule, and making +the best knowledge an imperative need. A little alcoholic +drink increases a delicate appetite: a great deal diminishes +or takes it away entirely, and also hinders and in many +cases stops digestion altogether. In its constant over-use +the membranes of the stomach are gradually destroyed, +and every organ in the body suffers. In ales and beers +there is not only alcohol, but much nitrogenous and sugary +matter, very fattening in its nature. A light beer, well +flavored with hops, is an aid to digestion, but taken in +excess produces biliousness. The long list of alcoholic +products it is not necessary to give, nor is it possible to +enter into much detail regarding alcohol itself; but there +are one or two points so important that they can not be +passed by.</p> + +<p>You will recall in a preceding chapter the description of +the circulation of the blood, and of its first passage through +veins and arteries for cleansing, before a second round +could make it food for the whole complex nervous system. +Alcohol taken in excess, it has been proved in countless +experiments by scientific men, possesses the power of +coagulating the blood. The little corpuscles adhere in +masses, and cannot force themselves through the smaller +vessels, and circulation is at once hindered. This, however, +is the secondary stage. At first, as many of you +have had occasion to notice, the face flushes, the eyes +grow brighter, and thought and word both come more +freely. The heart beats far more rapidly, and the speed +<a name="Page_117" id="Page_117"></a>increases in proportion to the amount of alcohol absorbed. +The average number of beats of the heart, allowing for +its slower action during sleep, is 100,000 beats per day. +Under a small supply of alcohol this rose to 127,000, and +in actual intoxication to 131,000.</p> + +<p>The flush upon the cheek is only a token of the same +fact within; every organ is congested. The brain has +been examined under such circumstances, and "looked as +if injected with vermilion ... the membrane covering +both brains resembling a delicate web of coagulated red +blood, so tensely were its fine vessels engorged."</p> + +<p>At a later stage the muscular power is paralyzed, the +rule of mind over body suspended, and a heavy, brutal +sleep comes, long or short according to the amount taken. +This is the extreme of alcoholism, and death the only +ending to it, as a habitual condition. Alcohol seems a +necessary evil; for that its occasional beneficence can +modify or neutralize the long list of woe and crime and +brutality following in its train, is more than doubtful.</p> + +<p>"Whatever good can come from alcohol, or whatever +evil, is all included in that primary physiological and luxurious +action of the agent upon the nervous supply of the +circulation.... If it be really a luxury for the heart to +be lifted up by alcohol, for the blood to course more +swiftly through the brain, for the thoughts to flow more +vehemently, for words to come more fluently, for emotions +to rise ecstatically, and for life to rush on beyond the pace +set by nature; then those who enjoy the luxury must +enjoy it—with the consequences."</p> + +<p>And now, at the end of our talks together, friends, there +is yet another word. Much must remain unsaid in these +narrow limits; but they are wide enough, I hope, to have +<a name="Page_118" id="Page_118"></a>given the key by which you may find easy entrance to the +mysteries we all may know, indeed must, if our lives are +truly lived. If through intemperance, in meat or drink, +in feeling or thought, you lessen bodily or mental power, +you alone are accountable, whether ignorant or not. Only +in a never-failing self-control can safety ever be. Temperance +is the foundation of high living; and here is its definition, +by one whose own life holds it day by day:—</p> + +<p>"Temperance is personal cleanliness; is modesty; is +quietness; is reverence for one's elders and betters; is +deference to one's mother and sisters; is gentleness; +is courage; is the withholding from all which leads to +excess in daily living; is the eating and drinking only +of that which will insure the best body which the best +soul is to inhabit: nay, temperance is all these, and +more."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119"></a><i>PART II.</i></h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="STOCK_AND_SEASONING" id="STOCK_AND_SEASONING" />STOCK AND SEASONING.</h2> + + +<p>The preparation called STOCK is for some inscrutable +reason a stumbling-block to average cooks, and even +by experienced housekeepers is often looked upon as +troublesome and expensive. Where large amounts of +fresh meat are used in its preparation, the latter adjective +might be appropriate; but stock in reality is the only mode +by which every scrap of bone or meat, whether cooked or +uncooked, can be made to yield the last particle of nourishment +contained in it. Properly prepared and strained +into a stone jar, it will keep a week, and is as useful in +the making of hashes and gravies as in soup itself.</p> + +<p>The first essential is a tightly-covered kettle, either +tinned iron or porcelain-lined, holding not less than two +gallons; three being a preferable size. Whether cooked +or uncooked meat is used, it should be cut into small bits, +and all bones broken or sawn into short pieces, that the +marrow may be easily extracted.</p> + +<p>To every pound of meat and bone allow one quart of +cold water, one even teaspoon of salt, and half a saltspoon +of pepper. Let the meat stand till the water is +slightly colored with its juice; then put upon the fire, and +let it come slowly to a boil, skimming off every particle +<a name="Page_120" id="Page_120"></a>of scum as it rises. The least neglect of this point will +give a broth in which bits of dark slime float about, unpleasant +to sight and taste. A cup of cold water, thrown +in as the kettle boils, will make the scum rise more freely. +Let it boil steadily, but very slowly, allowing an hour to +each pound of meat. The water will boil away, leaving, +at the end of the time specified, not more than half or +one-third the original amount. In winter this will become +a firm jelly, which can be used by simply melting it, thus +obtaining a strong, clear broth; or can be diluted with an +equal quantity of water, and vegetables added for a vegetable +soup.</p> + +<p>The meat used in stock, if boiled the full length of time +given, has parted with all its juices, and is therefore useless +as food. If wanted for hashes or croquettes, the portion +needed should be taken out as soon as tender, and a +pint of the stock with it, to use as gravy. Strain, when +done, into a stone pot or crock kept for the purpose, and, +when cold, remove the cake of fat which will rise to the +top. This fat, melted and strained, serves for many purposes +better than lard. If the stock is to be kept several +days, leave the fat on till ready to use it.</p> + +<p>Fresh and cooked meat may be used together, and all +remains of poultry or game, and trimmings of chops and +steaks, may be added, mutton being the only meat which +can not as well be used in combination; though even this, +by trimming off all the fat, may also be added. If it is +intended to keep the stock for some days, no vegetables +should be added, as vegetable juices ferment very easily. +For clear soups they must be cooked with the meat; and +directions will be given under that head for amounts and +seasonings.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121"></a>The secret of a savory soup lies in many flavors, none +of which are allowed to predominate; and, minutely as +rules for such flavoring may be given, only careful and +frequent <i>tasting</i> will insure success. Every vegetable, +spice, and sweet herb, curry-powders, catchups, sauces, +dried or fresh lemon-peel, can be used; and the simple +stock, by the addition of these various ingredients, becomes +the myriad number of soups to be found in the +pages of great cooking manuals like Gouffée's or Francatelli's.</p> + +<p><i>Brown soups</i> are made by frying the meat or game used +in them till thoroughly brown on all sides, and using dark +spices or sauces in their seasoning.</p> + +<p><i>White soups</i> are made with light meats, and often with +the addition of milk or cream.</p> + +<p><i>Purées</i> are merely thick soups strained carefully before +serving, and made usually of some vegetable which +thickens in boiling, as beans, pease, &c, though there are +several forms of fish <i>purées</i> in which the foundation is +thickened milk, to which the fish is added, and the whole +then rubbed through a common sieve, if a regular purée-sieve +is not to be had.</p> + +<p>Browned flour is often used for coloring, but does not +thicken a soup, as, in browning it, the starchy portion has +been destroyed; and it will not therefore mix, but settles +at the bottom. Burned sugar or caramel makes a better +coloring, and also adds flavor. With clear soups grated +cheese is often served, either Parmesan or any rich cheese +being used. Onions give a better flavor if they are fried +in a little butter or dripping before using, and many professional +cooks fry all soup vegetables lightly. Cabbage +and potatoes should be parboiled in a separate water be<a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a>fore +adding to a soup. In using wine or catchup, add +only at the last moment, as boiling dissipates the flavor. +Unless a thick vegetable soup is desired, always strain into +the tureen. Rice, sago, macaroni, or any cereal may be +used as thickening; the amounts required being found +under the different headings. Careful skimming, long +boiling, and as careful removing of fat, will secure a +broth especially desirable as a food for children and the +old, but almost equally so for any age; while many fragments, +otherwise entirely useless, discover themselves as +savory and nutritious parts of the day's supply of food.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="SOUPS" id="SOUPS" />SOUPS.</h2> + + +<p>BEEP SOUP WITH VEGETABLES.</p> + +<p>For this very excellent soup take two quarts of stock +prepared beforehand, as already directed. If the stock +is a jelly, as will usually be the case in winter, an amount +sufficient to fill a quart-measure can be diluted with a +pint of water, and will then be rich enough. Add to +this one small carrot, a turnip, a small parsnip, and two +onions, all chopped fine; a cupful of chopped cabbage; +two tablespoonfuls of barley or rice; and either six fresh +tomatoes sliced, or a small can of sealed ones. Boil +gently at least one hour; then add one saltspoonful each +of pepper, curry-powder, and clove. If the stock has +been salted properly, no more will be needed; but tasting +is essential to secure just the right flavors. Boil a few +minutes longer, and serve without straining.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a>This is an especially savory and hearty soup, and the +combinations of vegetables may be varied indefinitely. A +cup of chopped celery is an exceedingly nice addition, or, +if this is not to be had, a teaspoonful of celery salt, or a +saltspoonful of celery-seed. A lemon may also be sliced +thin, and added at the last. Where tomatoes are used, a +little sugar is always an improvement; in this case an +even tablespoonful being sufficient. If a thicker broth is +desired, one heaped tablespoonful of corn-starch or flour +may be first dissolved in a little cold water; then a cup of +the hot broth gradually mixed with it, and the whole added +to the soup and boiled for five minutes.</p> + + +<p>CLEAR OR AMBER SOUP.</p> + +<p>This soup needs careful attention. It may be made of +beef alone, but, if desired very rich for a special dinner, +requires the addition of either a chicken or a knuckle of +veal. Allow, then, for the best soup, a soup-bone,—the +shin of beef being most desirable,—weighing from two to +three pounds; a chicken; a slice of fat ham; two onions, +each stuck with three cloves; one small carrot and parsnip; +one stalk of celery; one tablespoonful of salt; half +a saltspoonful of pepper; and four quarts of cold water.</p> + +<p>Cut all the meat from the beef bone in small pieces; +slice the onions; fry the ham (or, if preferred, a thick +slice of salt pork weighing not less than two ounces); +fry the onions a bright brown in this fat; add the pieces +of beef, and brown them also. Now put all the materials, +bones included, into the soup-kettle; add the cold water, +and let it very gradually come to a boil. Skim with the +utmost care, and then boil slowly and steadily for not less +than five hours, six or even seven being preferable.<a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a> +Strain, and set in a cold place. Next day remove the fat, +and put the soup on the fire one hour before it will be +wanted. Break the white and shell of an egg into a +bowl; add a spoonful of cold water, and beat a moment; +add a little of the hot soup, that the white may mix more +thoroughly with the soup, and then pour it into the kettle. +Let all boil slowly for ten minutes; then strain, either +through a jelly-bag, or through a thick cloth laid in a +sieve or colander. Do not stir, as this would cloud the +soup; and, if not clear and sparkling, strain again. Return +to the fire, and heat to boiling-point, putting a lemon +cut in thin slices, and, if liked, a glass of sherry, into the +tureen before serving. A poached egg, or a boiled egg +from which the shell has been peeled, is often served with +each plate of this soup, which must be clear to deserve its +name.</p> + + +<p>WHITE SOUP.</p> + +<p>Veal or chicken must be used for this soup; and the +stock must always be prepared the day beforehand, having +been flavored with two chopped onions and a cup of cut +celery, or celery-seed and other seasoning, in the proportions +already given. On the day it is to be used, heat a +quart of milk; stir one tablespoonful of butter to a cream; +add a heaping tablespoonful of flour or corn-starch, a +saltspoonful of mace, and the same amount of white +pepper. Stir into the boiling milk, and add to the soup. +Let all boil a moment, and then pour into the tureen. +Three eggs, beaten very light and stirred into the hot milk +without boiling, make a still richer soup. The bones of +cold roast chicken or turkey may be used in this way; and +the broth of any meat, if perfectly clear, can serve as +foundation, though veal or chicken is most delicate.<a name="Page_125" id="Page_125"></a></p> + + +<p>MOCK TURTLE SOUP.</p> + +<p>A calf's head is usually taken for this soup; but a set +of calf's feet and a pound of lean veal answer equally +well. In either case, boil the meat in four quarts of water +for five hours, reducing the amount to two quarts, and +treating as stock for clear soup.</p> + +<p>Remove all fat, and put on the fire next day, half an +hour before dinner, seasoning it with a saltspoonful each +of mace, powdered thyme, or sweet marjoram and clove. +Melt a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a small +saucepan; add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and stir +both till a bright brown. Add soup till a smooth thickening +is made, and pour it into the soup-kettle. Cut about +half a pound of the cold meat into small square pieces,—<i>dice</i> +they are called,—and put into the tureen. Make +forcemeat balls by chopping a large cup of meat very fine; +season with a saltspoonful each of pepper and thyme; +mix in the yolk of a raw egg; make into little balls the +size of a hickory-nut, and fry brown in a little butter. +Squeeze the juice of half a lemon into the tureen with (or +without) a wine-glass of sherry. Pour in the soup, and +serve. If egg-balls are desired, make them of the yolks +of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed fine. Add the yolk of a +raw egg, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a saltspoon +of salt and half a one of pepper, and flour enough to +make a dough which can be easily handled. Roll out; +cut into little dice, and make each into a ball by rolling +between the palms of the hands. Boil five minutes in the +soup.</p> + + +<p>MUTTON BROTH.</p> + +<p>Prepare and boil as directed for stock. The broth +from a boiled leg of mutton can be used, or any cheap +<a name="Page_126" id="Page_126"></a>pieces and trimmings from chops. One small turnip and +an onion will give flavoring enough. On the day it is to +be used, add to two quarts of broth half a cup of rice, +and boil for half an hour.</p> + + +<p>CHICKEN BROTH.</p> + +<p>Even an old fowl which is unusable in any other way +makes excellent broth. Prepare as in any stock, and, +when used, add a tablespoonful of rice to each quart of +broth, boiling till tender. A white soup will be found the +most savory mode of preparation, the plain broth with +rice being best for children and invalids.</p> + + +<p>TOMATO SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.</p> + +<p>Materials for this soup are: one large can, or twelve +fresh tomatoes; one quart of boiling water; two onions; +a small carrot; half a small turnip; two or three sprigs +of parsley, or a stalk of celery,—all cut fine, and boiled +one hour. As the water boils away, add more to it, +so that the quantity may remain the same. Season with +one even tablespoonful each of salt and sugar, and half +a teaspoonful of pepper. Cream a tablespoonful of butter +with two heaping ones of flour, and add hot soup till +it will pour easily. Pour into the soup; boil all together +for five minutes; then strain through a sieve, and serve +with toasted crackers or bread.</p> + + +<p>HASTY TOMATO SOUP.</p> + +<p>Simple but excellent. One large can of tomatoes and +one pint of water brought to the boiling-point, and +rubbed through a sieve. Return to the fire. Add half a +teaspoonful of soda, and stir till it stops foaming. Sea<a name="Page_127" id="Page_127"></a>son +with one even tablespoonful of salt, two of sugar, +one saltspoonful of cayenne. Thicken with two heaping +tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of butter rubbed to a +cream, with hot soup added till it pours easily. Boil a pint +of milk separately, and, when ready to use, pour into the +boiling tomato, and serve at once, as standing long makes +the milk liable to curdle.</p> + + +<p>OYSTER SOUP.</p> + +<p>Two quarts of perfectly fresh oysters. Strain off the +juice, and add an equal amount of water, or, if they are +solid, add one pint of water, and then strain and boil. +Skim carefully. Add to one quart of milk one tablespoonful +of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper, and, if +thickening is liked, use same proportions as in hasty tomato +soup, and set to boil. When the milk boils, put in the +oysters. The moment the edges curl a little, which will +be when they have boiled one minute, they are done, and +should be served at once. Longer boiling toughens and +spoils them. This rule may be used also for stewed oysters, +omitting the thickening; or they may be put simply +into the boiling juice, with the same proportions of butter, +salt, and pepper, and cooked the same length of time.</p> + + +<p>CLAM SOUP.</p> + +<p>Fifty clams (hard or soft), boiled in a quart of water +one hour. Take out, and chop fine. Add one quart of +milk, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and one teaspoonful +of salt. It will be necessary to taste, however, as some +clams are salter than others. Rub one tablespoonful of +butter to a cream with two of flour, and use as thickening. +Add the chopped clams, and boil five minutes. If the +<a name="Page_128" id="Page_128"></a>clams are disliked, simply strain through a sieve, or cut +off the hard part and use the soft only.</p> + + +<p>PURÉE, OF FISH, VEGETABLES, ETC.</p> + +<p>One pound of fresh boiled salmon, or one small can of +the sealed.</p> + +<p>Pick out all bone and skin, and, if the canned is used, +pour off every drop of oil. Shred it as fine as possible. +Boil one quart of milk, seasoning with one teaspoonful +of salt, and one saltspoonful each of mace and white +pepper, increasing the amount slightly if more is liked. +Thicken with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of butter +rubbed to a cream, with a cup of boiling water; add +thickening and salmon, and boil two minutes. Strain into +the tureen through a purée sieve, rubbing as much as possible +of the salmon through with a potato-masher, and +<i>serve very hot</i>. All that will not go through can be mixed +with an equal amount of cracker-crumbs or mashed potato, +made into small cakes or rolls, and fried in a little +butter for breakfast, or treated as croquettes, and served +at dinner.</p> + +<p>This thickened milk is the foundation for many forms of +fish and vegetable purées. A pint of green pease, boiled, +mashed, and added; or asparagus or spinach in the same +proportions can be used. <i>Lobster</i> makes a purée as delicious +as that of salmon. Dry the "coral" in the oven; +pound it fine, and add to the milk before straining, thus +giving a clear pink color. Cut all the meat and green fat +into dice, and put into the tureen, pouring the hot milk +upon it. Boiled <i>cod</i> or <i>halibut</i> can be used; but nothing is +so nice as the salmon, either fresh or canned. For a <i>Purée +of Celery</i> boil one pint of cut celery in water till tender; +<a name="Page_129" id="Page_129"></a>then add to boiling milk, and rub through the sieve. +For <i>Potato Purée</i> use six large or ten medium sized potatoes, +boiled and mashed fine; then stirred into the milk, +and strained; a large tablespoonful of chopped parsley +being put in the tureen. For a <i>Green-Corn Soup</i> use the +milk without straining; adding a can of corn, or the corn +cut from six ears of fresh boiled corn, and an even tablespoonful +of sugar, and boiling ten minutes. <i>Salsify</i> can +also be used, the combinations being numberless, and +one's own taste a safe guide in making new ones.</p> + + +<p>TURTLE-BEAN SOUP.</p> + +<p>Wash and soak over-night, in cold water, one pint +of the black or turtle beans. In the morning put on +the fire in three quarts of cold water, which, as it boils +away, must be added to, to preserve the original quantity. +Add quarter of a pound of salt pork and half a pound +of lean beef; one carrot and two onions cut fine; one +tablespoonful of salt; one saltspoonful of cayenne. Cover +closely, and boil four or five hours. Rub through a colander, +having first put in the tureen three hard-boiled eggs +cut in slices, one lemon sliced thin, and half a glass of +wine. This soup is often served with small sausages +which have been boiled in it for ten minutes, and then +skinned, and used either whole or cut in bits. Cold baked +beans can also be used, in which case the meat, eggs, and +wine are omitted.</p> + + +<p>PEA SOUP.</p> + +<p>One quart of dried pease, washed and soaked over-night; +split pease are best. In the morning put them on +the fire with six quarts of cold water; half a pound of +salt pork; one even tablespoonful of salt; one saltspoonful +<a name="Page_130" id="Page_130"></a>of cayenne; and one teaspoonful of celery-seed. Fry till a +bright brown three onions cut small, and add to the pease; +cover closely, and boil four or five hours. Strain through +a colander, and, if not perfectly smooth, return to fire, +and add a thickening made of one heaping teaspoonful of +flour and an even one of butter, stirred together with a +little hot water and boiled five minutes. Beans can be +used in precisely the same way; and both bean and pea +soups are nicer served with <i>croutons</i>, or a thick slice of +bread cut in dice, and fried brown and crisp, or simply +browned in the oven, and put into the tureen at the +moment of serving.</p> + + +<p>ONION SOUP.</p> + +<p>Take three large onions, slice them very thin, and then +fry to a bright brown in a large spoonful of either butter +or stock-fat, the latter answering equally well. When +brown, add half a teacupful of flour, and stir constantly +until red. Then pour in slowly one pint of boiling water, +stirring steadily till it is all in. Boil and mash fine four +large potatoes, and stir into one quart of boiling milk, +taking care that there are no lumps. Add this to the fried +onions, with one teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful +of white pepper. Let all boil for five minutes, and then +serve with toasted or fried bread. Simple as this seems, +it is one of the best of the vegetable soups, though it is +made richer by the use of stock instead of water.</p> + + +<p>BROWNED FLOUR FOR SOUPS.</p> + +<p>Put a pint of sifted flour into a perfectly clean frying-pan, +and stir and turn constantly as it darkens, till the +whole is an even dark brown. If scorched at all, it is +<a name="Page_131" id="Page_131"></a>ruined, and should not be used for any purpose. As a +coloring for soups and gravies it is by no means as good +as caramel or burned sugar.</p> + + +<p>CARAMEL.</p> + +<p>Half a pound of brown sugar; one tablespoonful of +water. Put into a frying-pan, and stir steadily over the +fire till it becomes a deep dark brown in color. Then add +one cup of boiling water and one teaspoonful of salt. +Boil a minute longer, bottle, and keep corked. One +tablespoonful will color a clear soup, and it can be used +for many jellies, gravies, and sauces.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="FISH" id="FISH" />FISH.</h2> + + +<p>The most essential point in choosing fish is their <i>freshness</i>, +and this is determined as follows: if the gills are +red, the eyes prominent and full, and the whole fish stiff, +they are good; but if the eyes are sunken, the gills pale, +and the fish flabby, they are stale and unwholesome, and, +though often eaten in this condition, lack all the fine flavor +of a freshly-caught fish.</p> + +<p>The fish being chosen, the greatest care is necessary in +cleaning. If this is properly done, one washing will be +sufficient: the custom of allowing fresh fish to lie in water +after cleaning, destroys much of their flavor.</p> + +<p>Fresh-water fish, especially the cat-fish, have often a +muddy taste and smell. To get rid of this, soak in water +strongly salted; say, a cupful of salt to a gallon of water, +<a name="Page_132" id="Page_132"></a>letting it heat gradually in this, and boiling it for one +minute; then drying it thoroughly before cooking.</p> + +<p>All fish for boiling should be put into cold water, with +the exception of salmon, which loses its color unless put +into boiling water. A tablespoonful each of salt and +vinegar to every two quarts of water improves the flavor +of all boiled fish, and also makes the flesh firmer. Allow +ten minutes to the pound after the fish begins to boil, and +test with a knitting-needle or sharp skewer. If it runs in +easily, the fish can be taken off. If a fish-kettle with +strainer is used, the fish can be lifted out without danger +of breaking. If not, it should be thoroughly dredged +with flour, and served in a cloth kept for the purpose. In +all cases drain it perfectly, and send to table on a folded +napkin laid upon the platter.</p> + +<p>In frying, fish should, like all fried articles, be <i>immersed</i> +in the hot lard or drippings. Small fish can be fried +whole; larger ones boned, and cut in small pieces. If +they are egged and crumbed, the <i>egg</i> will form a covering, +hardening at once, and absolutely impervious to fat.</p> + +<p>Pan-fish, as they are called,—flounders and small fish +generally,—can also be fried by rolling in Indian meal or +flour, and browning in the fat of salt pork.</p> + +<p>Baking and broiling preserve the flavor most thoroughly.</p> + +<p>Cold boiled fish can always be used, either by spicing +as in the rule to be given, or by warming again in a little +butter and water. Cold fried or broiled fish, can be put in +a pan, and set in the oven till hot, this requiring not over +ten minutes; a longer time giving a strong, oily taste, +which spoils it. Plain boiled or mashed potatoes are +always served with fish where used as a dinner-course. If +<a name="Page_133" id="Page_133"></a>fish is boiled whole, do not cut off either tail or head. The +tail can be skewered in the mouth if liked; or a large fish +may be boiled in the shape of the letter S by threading a +trussing-needle, fastening a string around the head, then +passing the needle through the middle of the body, drawing +the string tight and fastening it around the tail.</p> + + +<p>BAKED FISH.</p> + +<p>Bass, fresh shad, blue-fish, pickerel, &c., can be cooked +in this way:—</p> + +<p>See that the fish has been properly cleaned. Wash in +salted water, and wipe dry. For stuffing for a fish weighing +from four to six pounds, take four large crackers, or +four ounces of bread-crumbs; quarter of a pound of salt +pork; one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of +pepper; a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, or a teaspoonful +of thyme. Chop half the pork fine, and mix with the +crumbs and seasoning, using half a cup of hot water to +mix them, or, if preferred, a beaten egg. Put this dressing +into the body of the fish, which is then to be fastened +together with a skewer. Cut the remainder of the pork +in narrow strips, and lay it in gashes cut across the back +of the fish about two inches apart. Dredge thickly with +flour, using about two tablespoonfuls. Put a tin baking-sheet +in the bottom of a pan, as without it the fish can not +be easily taken up. Lay the fish on this; pour a cup of +boiling water into the pan, and bake in a hot oven for one +hour, basting it very often that the skin may not crack; +and, at the end of half an hour, dredging again with flour, +repeating this every ten minutes till the fish is done. If +the water dries away, add enough to preserve the original +quantity. When the fish is done, slide it carefully from +<a name="Page_134" id="Page_134"></a>the tin sheet on to a hot platter. Set the baking-pan on +top of the stove. Mix a teaspoonful of flour with quarter +of a cup of cold water, and stir into the boiling gravy. +A tablespoonful of walnut or mushroom catchup, or of +Worcestershire sauce, may be added if liked. <i>Serve +very hot.</i></p> + +<p>Before sending a baked fish to table, take out the +skewer. When done, it should have a handsome brown +crust. If pork is disliked, it may be omitted altogether, +and a tablespoonful of butter substituted in the stuffing. +Basting should be done as often as once in ten minutes, +else the skin will blister and crack. Where the fish is +large, it will be better to sew the body together after stuffing, +rather than to use a skewer. The string can be cut +and removed before serving.</p> + +<p>If any is left, it can be warmed in the remains of the +gravy, or, if this has been used, make a gravy of one cup +of hot water, thickened with one teaspoonful of flour or +corn-starch stirred smooth first in a little cold water. Add +a tablespoonful of butter and any catchup or sauce desired. +Take all bones from the fish; break it up in small pieces, +and stew not over five minutes in the gravy. Or it can +be mixed with an equal amount of mashed potato or bread-crumbs, +a cup of milk and an egg added, with a teaspoonful +of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and baked until +brown—about fifteen minutes—in a hot oven.</p> + + +<p>TO BOIL FISH.</p> + +<p>General directions have already been given. All fish +must boil <i>very</i> gently, or the outside will break before the +inside is done. In all cases salt and a little vinegar, a +teaspoonful each, are allowed to each quart of water.<a name="Page_135" id="Page_135"></a> +Where the fish has very little flavor, Dubois' receipt for +boiling will be found exceedingly nice, and much less +trouble than the name applied by professional cooks to +this method—<i>au court bouillon</i>—would indicate. It is +as follows:—</p> + +<p>Mince a carrot, an onion, and one stalk of celery, and +fry them in a little butter. Add two or three sprigs of +parsley, two tablespoonfuls of salt, six pepper-corns, and +three cloves. Pour on two quarts of boiling water and +one pint of vinegar, and boil for fifteen minutes. Skim as +it boils, and use, when cold, for boiling the fish. Wine +can be used instead of vinegar; and, by straining carefully +and keeping in a cold place, the same mixture can be used +several times.</p> + + +<p>TO BROIL FISH.</p> + +<p>If the fish is large, it should be split, in order to insure +its being cooked through; though notches may be cut at +equal distances, so that the heat can penetrate. Small +fish may be broiled whole. The gridiron should be well +greased with dripping or olive oil. If a double-wire gridiron +is used, there will be no trouble in turning either +large or small fish. If a single-wire or old-fashioned iron +one, the best way is to first loosen with a knife any part +that sticks; then, holding a platter over the fish with one +hand, turn the gridiron with the other, and the fish can +then be returned to it without breaking.</p> + +<p>Small fish require a hot, clear fire; large ones, a more +moderate one, that the outside may not be burned before +the inside is done. Cook always with the <i>skin-side</i> down +at first, and broil to a golden brown,—this requiring, for +small fish, ten minutes; for large ones, from ten to twenty, +according to size. When done, pepper and salt lightly; +<a name="Page_136" id="Page_136"></a>and to a two-pound fish allow a tablespoonful of butter +spread over it. Set the fish in the oven a moment, that +the butter may soak in, and then serve. A teaspoonful of +chopped parsley, and half a lemon squeezed over shad or +any fresh fish, is a very nice addition. Where butter, +lemon, and parsley are blended beforehand, it makes the +sauce known as <i>maître d'hôtel</i> sauce, which is especially +good for broiled shad.</p> + +<p>In broiling steaks or cutlets of large fish,—say, salmon, +halibut, fresh cod, &c.,—the same general directions +apply. Where very delicate broiling is desired, the pieces +of fish can be wrapped in buttered paper before laying +on the gridiron; this applying particularly to salmon.</p> + + +<p>TO FRY FISH.</p> + +<p>Small fish—such as trout, perch, smelts, &c.—may +simply be rolled in Indian meal or flour, and fried either +in the fat of salt pork, or in boiling lard or drippings. A +nicer method, however, with fish, whether small or in +slices, is to dip them first in flour or fine crumbs, then +in beaten egg,—one egg, with two tablespoonfuls of cold +water and half a teaspoonful of salt, being enough for +two dozen smelts; then rolling again in crumbs or meal, +and dropping into hot lard. The egg hardens instantly, +and not a drop of fat can penetrate the inside. Fry to a +golden brown. Take out with a skimmer; lay in the oven +on a double brown paper for a moment, and then serve.</p> + +<p><i>Filets</i> of fish are merely flounders, or any flat fish with +few bones, boned, skinned, and cut in small pieces; then +egged and fried.</p> + +<p>To bone a fish of this sort, use a very sharp knife. +The fish should have been scaled, but not cleaned or cut +<a name="Page_137" id="Page_137"></a>open. Make a cut down the back from head to tail. +Now, holding the knife pressed close to the bone, cut +carefully till the fish is free on one side; then turn, and cut +away the other. To skin, take half the fish at a time +firmly in one hand; hold the blade of the knife flat as in +boning, and run it slowly between skin and flesh. Cut +the fish in small diamond-shaped pieces; egg, crumb, and +put into shape with the knife; and then fry. The operation +is less troublesome than it sounds, and the result most +satisfactory.</p> + +<p>The <i>bones and trimmings</i> remaining can either be +stewed in a pint of water till done, adding half a teaspoonful +of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful +of catchup; straining the gravy off, and thickening +with one heaping teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a +little cold water: or they can be broiled. For broiled +bones, mix one saltspoonful of mustard, as much cayenne +as could be taken up on the point of a penknife, a saltspoonful +of salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. A +tablespoonful of olive-oil may be added, if liked. Lay +the bone in this, turning it till all is absorbed; broil over +a quick fire; and <i>serve very hot</i>.</p> + +<p>Fish may also be fried in batter (p. 182), or these pieces, +or <i>filets</i>, may be laid on a buttered dish; a simple drawn +butter or cream sauce (p. 182) poured over them; the +whole covered with rolled bread or cracker-crumbs, dotted +with bits of butter, and baked half an hour. A cup of +canned mushrooms is often added.</p> + + +<p>TO STEW FISH.</p> + +<p>Any fresh-water fish is good, cooked in this way; cat-fish +which have been soaked in salted water, to take away +<a name="Page_138" id="Page_138"></a>the muddy taste, being especially nice. Cut the fish in +small pieces. Boil two sliced onions in a cup of water. +Pour off this water; add another cup, and two tablespoonfuls +of wine, a saltspoonful of pepper, and salt to taste +(about half a teaspoonful). Put in the fish, and cook +for twenty minutes. Thicken the gravy with a heaping +teaspoonful of flour, rubbed to a cream with a teaspoonful +of butter. If wine is not used, add a sprig of chopped +parsley and the juice of half a lemon.</p> + +<p>These methods will be found sufficient for all fresh fish, +no other special rules being necessary. Experience and +individual taste will guide their application. If the fish +is oily, as in the case of mackerel or herring, broiling +will always be better than frying. If fried, let it be with +very little fat, as their own oil will furnish part.</p> + + +<p>TO BOIL SALT CODFISH.</p> + +<p>The large, white cod, which cuts into firm, solid slices, +should be used. If properly prepared, there is no need of +the strong smell, which makes it so offensive to many, and +which comes only in boiling. The fish is now to be had +boned, and put up in small boxes, and this is by far the +most desirable form. In either case, lay in tepid water +<i>skin-side up</i>, and soak all night. If the skin is down, the +salt, instead of soaking out, settles against it, and is retained. +Change the water in the morning, and soak two +or three hours longer; then, after scraping and cleaning +thoroughly, put in a kettle with tepid water enough to well +cover it, and set it where it will heat to the scalding-point, +but <i>not boil</i>. Keep it at this point, but never let it boil a +moment. Let it cook in this way an hour: two will do +no harm. Remove every particle of bone and dark skin +<a name="Page_139" id="Page_139"></a>before serving, sending it to table in delicate pieces, none +of which need be rejected. With egg sauce (p. 169), +mashed or mealy boiled potatoes, and sugar-beets, this +makes the New-England "fish dinner" a thing of terror +when poorly prepared, but both savory and delicate where +the above rule is closely followed.</p> + +<p>Fish-balls, and all the various modes of using salted +cod, require this preparation beforehand.</p> + + +<p>SALT COD WITH CREAM.</p> + +<p>Flake two pounds of cold boiled salt cod very fine. +Boil one pint of milk. Mix butter the size of a small +egg with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir into it. +Add a few sprigs of parsley or half an onion minced +very fine, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful +of salt. Butter a quart pudding-dish. Put in +alternate layers of dressing and fish till nearly full. +Cover the top with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, dot +with bits of butter, and brown in a quick oven about +twenty minutes. The fish may be mixed with an equal +part of mashed potato, and baked; and not only codfish, +but any boiled <i>fresh</i> fish, can be used, in which case +double the measure of salt given will be required.</p> + + +<p>SPICED FISH.</p> + +<p>Any remains of cold fresh fish may be used. Take out +all bones or bits of skin. Lay in a deep dish, and barely +cover with hot vinegar in which a few cloves and allspice +have been boiled. It is ready for use as soon as cold.</p> + + +<p>POTTED FISH.</p> + +<p>Fresh herring or mackerel or shad may be used. Skin +<a name="Page_140" id="Page_140"></a>the fish, and cut in small pieces, packing them in a small +stone jar. Just cover with vinegar. For six pounds of +fish allow one tablespoonful of salt, and a dozen each of +whole allspice, cloves, and pepper-corns. Tie a thick +paper over the top of the cover, and bake five hours. +The vinegar dissolves the bones perfectly, and the fish is +an excellent relish at supper.</p> + + +<p>FISH CHOWDER.</p> + +<p>Three pounds of any sort of fresh fish may be taken; +but fresh cod is always best. Six large potatoes and two +onions, with half a pound of salt pork.</p> + +<p>Cut the pork into dice, and fry to a light brown. Add +the onions, and brown them also. Pour the remaining fat +into a large saucepan, or butter it, as preferred. Put in +a layer of potatoes, a little onion and pork, and a layer of +the fish cut in small pieces, salting and peppering each +layer. A tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of +pepper will be a mild seasoning. A pinch of cayenne may +be added, if liked. Barely cover with boiling water, and +boil for half an hour. In the meantime boil a pint of +milk, and, when at boiling-point, break into it three ship +biscuit or half a dozen large crackers; add a heaping +tablespoonful of butter. Put the chowder in a platter, and +pile the softened crackers on top, pouring the milk over +all. Or the milk may be poured directly into the chowder; +the crackers laid in, and softened in the steam; and the +whole served in a tureen. Three or four tomatoes are +sometimes added. In clam chowder the same rule would +be followed, substituting one hundred clams for the fish, +and using a small can of tomatoes if fresh ones were not +in season.<a name="Page_141" id="Page_141"></a></p> + + +<p>STEWED OYSTERS.</p> + +<p>The rule already given for <i>oyster soup</i> is an excellent +one, omitting the thickening. A simpler one is to strain +the juice from a quart of oysters, and add an equal +amount of water. Bring it to boiling-point; skim carefully; +season with salt to taste, this depending on the +saltness of the oysters, half a teaspoonful being probably +enough. Add a saltspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful +of butter, and a cup of milk. The milk may be omitted, +if preferred. Add the oysters. Boil till the edges curl, +and no longer. Serve at once, as they toughen by +standing.</p> + + +<p>FRIED OYSTERS.</p> + +<p>Choose large oysters, and drain thoroughly in a colander. +Dry in a towel. Dip first in sifted cracker-crumbs; +then in egg, one egg beaten with a large spoonful of +cold water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful +of pepper, being enough for two dozen oysters. Roll +again in crumbs, and drop into boiling lard. If a wire +frying-basket is used, lay them in this. Fry to a light +brown. Lay them on brown paper a moment to drain, +and serve at once on a <i>hot platter</i>. As they require +hardly more than a minute to cook, it is better to wait till +all are at the table before beginning to fry. Oysters are +very good, merely fried in a little hot butter; but the first +method preserves their flavor best.</p> + + +<p>SCALLOPED OYSTERS.</p> + +<p>One quart of oysters; one large breakfast cup of +cracker or bread crumbs, the crackers being nicer if +freshly toasted and rolled hot; two large spoonfuls +of butter; one teaspoonful of salt; half a teaspoonful +<a name="Page_142" id="Page_142"></a>of pepper; one saltspoonful of mace. Mix the salt, +pepper, and mace together. Butter a pudding-dish; heat +the juice with the seasoning and butter, adding a teacup +of milk or cream if it can be had, though water will answer. +Put alternate layers of crumbs and oysters, filling +the dish in this way. Pour the juice over, and bake in a +quick oven twenty minutes. If not well browned, heat +a shovel red-hot, and brown the top with that; longer +baking toughening the oysters.</p> + + +<p>OYSTERS FOR PIE OR PATTIES.</p> + +<p>One quart of oysters put on to boil in their own liquor. +Turn them while boiling into a colander to drain. Melt +a piece of butter the size of an egg in the saucepan, add +a tablespoonful of sifted flour, and stir one minute. Pour +in the oyster liquor slowly, which must be not less than a +large cupful. Beat the yolks of two eggs thoroughly +with a saltspoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, +and one of mace. Add to the boiling liquor, but do not +let it boil. Put in the oysters, and either use them to +fill a pie, the form for which is already baked, for patties +for dinner, or serve them on thin slices of buttered toast +for breakfast or tea.</p> + + +<p>SPICED OR PICKLED OYSTERS.</p> + +<p>To a gallon of large, fine oysters, allow one pint of +cider or white-wine vinegar; one tablespoonful of salt; +one grated nutmeg; eight blades of mace; three dozen +cloves, and as many whole allspice; and a saltspoon even +full of cayenne pepper. Strain the oyster juice, and +bring to the boiling-point in a porcelain-lined kettle. +Skim carefully as it boils up. Add the vinegar, and skim +<a name="Page_143" id="Page_143"></a>also, throwing in the spices and salt when it has boiled a +moment. Boil all together for five minutes, and then +pour over the oysters, adding a lemon cut in very thin +slices. They are ready for the table next day, but will +keep a fortnight or more in a cold place. If a sharp +pickle is desired, use a quart instead of a pint of vinegar.</p> + + +<p>SMOTHERED OYSTERS (<i>Maryland fashion</i>).</p> + +<p>Drain all the juice from a quart of oysters. Melt in a +frying-pan a piece of butter the size of an egg, with as +much cayenne pepper as can be taken up on the point +of a penknife, and a saltspoonful of salt. Put in the +oysters, and cover closely. They are done as soon as the +edges ruffle. Serve on thin slices of buttered toast as a +breakfast or supper dish. A glass of sherry is often +added.</p> + + +<p>OYSTER OR CLAM FRITTERS.</p> + +<p>Chop twenty-five clams or oysters fine, and mix them +with a batter made as follows: One pint of flour, in +which has been sifted one heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder +and half a teaspoonful of salt; one large cup +of milk, and two eggs well beaten. Stir eggs and milk +together; add the flour slowly; and, last, the clams or +oysters. Drop by spoonfuls into boiling lard. Fry to a +golden brown, and serve at once; or they may be fried +like pancakes in a little hot fat. Whole clams or oysters +may be used instead of chopped ones, and fried singly.</p> + + +<p>TO BOIL LOBSTERS OR CRABS.</p> + +<p>Be sure that the lobster is alive, as, if dead, it will not +be fit to use. Have water boiling in a large kettle, and, +holding the lobster or crab by the back, drop it in head +<a name="Page_144" id="Page_144"></a>foremost; the reason for this being, that the animal dies +instantly when put in in this way. An hour is required +for a medium-sized lobster, the shell turning red when +done. When cold, the meat can be used either plain or +in salad, or cooked in various ways. A can-opener will +be found very convenient in opening a lobster.</p> + + +<p>STEWED OR CURRIED LOBSTER.</p> + +<p>Cut the meat into small bits, and add the green fat, +and the coral which is found only in the hen-lobster. +Melt in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and a +heaping tablespoonful of flour. Stir smoothly together, +adding slowly one large cup of either stock or milk, a +saltspoonful of mace, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half +a teaspoonful of salt. Put in the lobster, and cook for +ten minutes. For curry, simply add one teaspoonful of +curry-powder. This stewed lobster may also be put in +the shell of the back, which has been cleaned and washed, +bread or cracker crumbs sprinkled over it, and browned +in the oven; or it may be treated as a scallop, buttering a +dish, and putting in alternate layers of crumbs and lobster, +ending with crumbs. Crabs, though more troublesome +to extract from the shell, are almost equally good, +treated in any of the ways given.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="MEATS" id="MEATS" />MEATS.</h2> + + +<p>The qualities and characteristics of meats have already +been spoken of in Part I., and it is necessary here to give +only a few simple rules for marketing.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145"></a>The best BEEF is of a clear red color, slightly marbled +with fat, and the fat itself of a clear white. Where the +beef is dark red or bluish, and the fat yellow, it is too old, +or too poorly fed, to be good. The sirloin and ribs, +especially the sixth, seventh, and eighth, make the best +roasting-pieces. The ribs can be removed and used for +stock, and the beef rolled or skewered firmly, making a +piece very easily carved, and almost as presentable the +second day as the first. For steaks sirloin is nearly as +good, and much more economical, than porter-house, which +gives only a small eatable portion, the remainder being +only fit for the stock-pot. If the beef be very young and +tender, steaks from the round may be used; but these are +usually best stewed. Other pieces and modes of cooking +are given under their respective heads.</p> + +<p>MUTTON should be a light, clear red, and the fat very +white and firm. It is always improved by keeping, and +in cold weather can be hung for a month, if carefully +watched to see that it has not become tainted. Treated +in this way, well-fed mutton is equal to venison. If the +fat is deep yellow, and the lean dark red, the animal is +too old; and no keeping will make it really good eating. +Four years is considered the best age for prime mutton.</p> + +<p>VEAL also must have clear white fat, and should be +fine in grain. If the kidney is covered with firm white +fat, it indicates health, and the meat is good; if yellow, +it is unwholesome, and should not be eaten. The loin +and fillet are used in roasting, and are the choice pieces, +the breast coming next, and the neck and ribs being good +for stewing and fricassees.</p> + +<p>PORK should have fine, white fat, and the meat should +be white and smooth. Only country-fed pork should ever +<a name="Page_146" id="Page_146"></a>be eaten, the pig even then being liable to diseases unknown +to other animals, and the meat, even when carefully +fed, being at all times less digestible than any sort. +<i>Bacon</i>, carefully cured and smoked, is considered its most +wholesome form.</p> + +<p>POULTRY come last. The best <i>Turkeys</i> have black legs; +and, if young, the toes and bill are soft and pliable. The +combs of fowls should be bright colored, and the legs +smooth.</p> + +<p><i>Geese</i>, if young and fine, are plump in the breast, have +white soft fat, and yellow feet.</p> + +<p><i>Ducks</i> are chosen by the same rule as geese, and are +firm and thick on the breast.</p> + +<p><i>Pigeons</i> should be fresh, the breast plump, and the feet +elastic. Only experience can make one familiar with +other signs; and a good butcher can usually be trusted to +tide one over the season of inexperience, though the +sooner it ends the better for all parties concerned.</p> + + +<p>BOILED MEATS AND STEWS.</p> + +<p>All meats intended to be boiled and served whole at +table must be put into <i>boiling water</i>, thus following an +entirely opposite rule from those intended for soups. In +the latter, the object being to extract all the juice, cold +water must always be used first, and then heated with the +meat in. In the former, all the juice is to be kept in; +and, by putting into boiling water, the albumen of the +meat hardens on the surface and makes a case or coating +for the meat, which accomplishes this end. Where something +between a soup and plain boiled meat is desired, as +in <i>beef bouilli</i>, the meat is put on in cold water, which is +brought to a boil <i>very quickly</i>, thus securing good gravy, +<a name="Page_147" id="Page_147"></a>yet not robbing the meat of all its juices. With corned +or salted meats, tongue, &c., cold water must be used, +and half an hour to the pound allowed. If to be eaten +cold, such meats should always be allowed to cool in the +water in which they were boiled; and this water, if not +too salt, can be used for dried bean or pea soups.</p> + + +<p>BEEF À LA MODE.</p> + +<p>Six or eight pounds of beef from the round, cut thick. +Take out the bone, trim off all rough bits carefully, and +rub the meat well with the following spicing: One teaspoonful +each of pepper and ground clove, quarter of a +cup of brown sugar, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Mix +these all together, and rub thoroughly into the beef, which +must stand over-night.</p> + +<p>Next morning make a stuffing of one pint of bread or +cracker crumbs; one large onion chopped fine; a tablespoonful +of sweet marjoram or thyme; half a teaspoonful +each of pepper and ground clove, and a heaping teaspoonful +of salt. Add a large cup of hot water, in which has +been melted a heaping tablespoonful of butter, and stir +into the crumbs. Beat an egg light, and mix with it. If +there is more than needed to fill the hole, make gashes in +the meat, and stuff with the remainder. Now bind into +shape with a strip of cotton cloth, sewing or tying it +firmly. Put a trivet or small iron stand into a soup-pot, +and lay the beef upon it. Half cover it with cold water; +put in two onions stuck with three cloves each, a large +tablespoonful of salt, and a half teaspoonful of pepper; +and stew very slowly, allowing half an hour to the pound, +and turning the meat twice while cooking. At the end of +this time take off the cloth, and put the meat, which must +<a name="Page_148" id="Page_148"></a>remain on the trivet, in a roasting-pan. Dredge it quickly +with flour, set into a hot oven, and brown thoroughly. +Baste once with the gravy, and dredge again, the whole +operation requiring about half an hour. The water in the +pot should have been reduced to about a pint. Pour this +into the roasting-pan after the meat is taken up, skimming +off every particle of fat. Thicken with a heaping tablespoonful +of browned flour, stirred smooth in a little cold +water, and add a tablespoonful of catchup and two of +wine, if desired, though neither is necessary. Taste, as +a little more salt may be required.</p> + +<p>The thick part of a leg of veal may be treated in the +same manner, both being good either hot or cold; and a +round of beef may be also used without spicing or stuffing, +and browned in the same way, the remains being either +warmed in the gravy or used for hashes or croquettes.</p> + + +<p>BEEF À LA MODE (<i>Virginia fashion</i>).</p> + +<p>Use the round, as in the foregoing receipt, and remove +the bone; and for eight pounds allow half a pint of good +vinegar; one large onion minced fine; half a teaspoonful +each of mustard, black pepper, clove, and allspice; and +two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar. Cut half a pound of +fat salt pork into lardoons, or strips, two or three inches +long and about half an inch square. Boil the vinegar +with the onion and seasoning, and pour over the strips of +pork, and let them stand till cold. Then pour off the +liquor, and thicken it with bread or cracker crumbs. Make +incisions in the beef at regular intervals,—a carving-steel +being very good for this purpose,—and push in the strips +of pork. Fill the hole from which the bone was taken +with the rest of the pork and the dressing, and tie the +<a name="Page_149" id="Page_149"></a>beef firmly into shape. Put two tablespoonfuls of dripping +or lard in a frying-pan, and brown the meat on all +sides. This will take about half an hour. Now put the +meat on a trivet in the kettle; half cover with boiling +water; and add a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of +pepper, an onion and a small carrot cut fine, and two or +three sprigs of parsley. Cook very slowly, allowing half +an hour to a pound, and make gravy by the directions +given for it in the preceding receipt.</p> + +<p><i>Braised beef</i> is prepared by either method given here +for <i>à la mode</i> beef, but cooked in a covered iron pan, which +comes for the purpose, and which is good also for beef <i>à +la mode</i>, or for any tough meat which requires long cooking, +and is made tenderer by keeping in all the steam.</p> + + +<p>BOILED MUTTON.</p> + +<p>A <i>shoulder</i>, or <i>fore-quarter</i>, of mutton, weighing five or +six pounds, will boil in an hour, as it is so thin. The <i>leg</i>, +or <i>hind-quarter</i>, requires twenty minutes to the pound; +though, if very young and tender, it will do in less. It +can be tried with a knitting-needle to see if it is tender. +It is made whiter and more delicate by boiling in a cloth, +but should be served without it. Boil in well-salted water +according to the rule already given. Boiled or mashed +turnips are usually served with it, and either drawn butter +or caper sauce as on p. 169.</p> + +<p><i>Lamb</i> may be boiled in the same manner, but is better +roasted; and so also with <i>veal</i>.</p> + + +<p>BOILED CORNED BEEF.</p> + +<p>If to be eaten hot, the <i>round</i> is the best piece. If cold +and pressed, what are called "<i>plate pieces</i>"—that is, the +<a name="Page_150" id="Page_150"></a>brisket, the flank, and the thin part of the ribs—may be +used. Wash, and put into cold water, allowing half an +hour to a pound after it begins to boil. If to be eaten +cold, let it stand in the water till nearly cold, as this +makes it richer. Take out all bones from a thin piece; +wrap in a cloth, and put upon a large platter. Lay a tin +sheet over it, and set on a heavy weight,—flat-irons will +do,—and let it stand over-night. Or the meat may be +picked apart with a knife and fork; the fat and lean +evenly mixed and packed into a pan, into which a smaller +pan is set on top of the meat, and the weight in this. +Thus marbled slices may be had. All corned beef is +improved by pressing, and all trimmings from it can be +used in hash or croquettes.</p> + + +<p>BOILED TONGUE.</p> + +<p>Smoked tongue will be found much better than either +fresh or pickled tongues.</p> + +<p>Soak it over night, after washing it. Put on in cold +water, and boil steadily four hours. Then take out; peel +off the skin, and return to the water to cool. Cut in <i>lengthwise</i> +slices, as this makes it tenderer. The root of the +tongue may be chopped very fine, and seasoned like deviled +ham (p. 265).</p> + + +<p>BOILED HAM.</p> + +<p>Small hams are better in flavor and quality than large +ones. A brush should be kept to scrub them with, as it +is impossible to get them clean without it. Soak over-night +in plenty of cold water. Next morning, scrape, +and trim off all the hard black parts, scrubbing it well. +Put on to boil in cold water. Let it heat very gradually.<a name="Page_151" id="Page_151"></a> +Allow half an hour to the pound. When done, take from +the water, skin, and return, letting it remain till cold. +Dot with spots of black pepper, and cover the knuckle +with a frill of white paper. It is much nicer, whether +eaten hot or cold, if covered with bread or cracker crumbs +and browned in the oven. The fat is useless, save for +soap-grease. In carving, cut down in thin slices through +the middle. The knuckle can always be deviled (p. +265). A <i>leg of pork</i> which has simply been corned is +boiled in the same way as ham, soaking over-night, and +browning in the oven or not, as liked.</p> + + +<p>IRISH STEW.</p> + +<p>This may be made of either beef or mutton, though +mutton is generally used. Reject all bones, and trim off +all fat and gristle, reserving these for the stock-pot. Cut +the meat in small pieces, not over an inch square, and +cover with cold water. Skim carefully as it boils up, and +see that the water is kept at the same level by adding as +it boils away. For two pounds of meat allow two sliced +onions, eight good-sized potatoes, two teaspoonfuls of +salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, +and cook for two hours. Thicken the gravy with one +tablespoonful of flour stirred smooth in a little cold water, +and serve very hot. The trimmings from a fore-quarter +of mutton will be enough for a stew, leaving a well-shaped +roast besides. If beef is used, add one medium-sized +carrot cut fine, and some sprigs of parsley. Such a stew +would be called by a French cook a <i>ragoût</i>, and can be +made of any pieces of meat or poultry.<a name="Page_152" id="Page_152"></a></p> + + +<p>WHITE STEW, OR FRICASSEE.</p> + +<p>Use <i>veal</i> for this stew, allowing an hour to a pound of +meat, and the same proportions of salt and pepper as in +the preceding receipt, adding a saltspoonful of mace. +Thicken, when done, with one heaping tablespoonful of +flour rubbed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an +egg, and one cup of hot milk added just at the last. A +cauliflower nicely boiled, cut up, and stewed with it a +moment, is very nice.</p> + +<p>This stew becomes a <i>pot-pie</i> by making a nice biscuit-crust, +as on p. 164; cutting it out in rounds, and laying +in the kettle half an hour before the stew is done. Cover +closely, and do not turn them. Lay them, when done, +around the edge of the platter; pile the meat in the centre, +and pour over it the thickened gravy. Two beaten +eggs are sometimes added, and it is then called a <i>blanquette</i> +of veal.</p> + + +<p>BROWN STEW OR FRICASSEE.</p> + +<p>To make these stews the meat is cut in small pieces, +and browned on each side in a little hot dripping; or, if +preferred, quarter of a pound of pork is cut in thin slices +and fried crisp, the fat from it being used for browning. +Cover the meat with warm water when done. If a stew, +any vegetables liked can be added; a fricassee never containing +them, having only meat and a gravy, thickened +with browned flour and seasoned in the proportions already +given. Part of a can of mushrooms may be used with a +beef stew, and a glass of wine added; this making a +<i>ragoût with mushrooms</i>. The countless receipts one sees +in large cook-books for ragoûts and fricassees are merely +variations in the flavoring of simple stews; and, after +<a name="Page_153" id="Page_153"></a>a little experimenting, any one can improvise her own, +remembering that the strongly-flavored vegetables (as +carrots) belong especially to dark meats, and the more +delicate ones to light. Fresh pork is sometimes used in +a white fricassee, in which case a little powdered sage is +better than mace as a seasoning.</p> + +<p><i>Curries</i> can be made by adding a heaping teaspoonful +of curry-powder to a brown fricassee, and serving with +boiled rice; put the rice around the edge of the platter, +and pour the curry in the middle. Chicken makes the +best curry; but veal is very good. In a genuine East-Indian +curry, lemon-juice and grated cocoa-nut are added; +but it is an unwholesome combination.</p> + + +<p>BEEF ROLLS.</p> + +<p>Two pounds of steak from the round, cut in very thin +slices. Trim off all fat and gristle, and cut into pieces +about four inches square. Now cut <i>very thin</i> as many +slices of salt pork as you have slices of steak, making +them a little smaller. Mix together one teaspoonful of +salt and one of thyme or summer savory, and one saltspoonful +of pepper. Lay the pork on a square of steak; +sprinkle with the seasoning; roll up tightly, and tie. +When all are tied, put the bits of fat and trimmings into +a hot frying-pan, and add a tablespoonful of drippings. +Lay in the rolls, and brown on all sides, which will require +about ten minutes; then put them in a saucepan. +Add to the fat in the pan a heaping tablespoonful of +flour, and stir till a bright brown. Pour in gradually one +quart of boiling water, and then strain it over the beef +rolls. Cover closely, and cook two hours, or less if the +steak is tender, stirring now and then to prevent scorch<a name="Page_154" id="Page_154"></a>ing. +Take off the strings before serving. These rolls +can be prepared without the pork, and are very nice; or +a whole beefsteak can be used, covering it with a dressing +made as for stuffed veal, and then rolling; tying at each +end, browning, and stewing in the same way. This can +be eaten cold or hot; while the small rolls are much better +hot. If wanted as a breakfast dish, they can be cooked +the day beforehand, left in the gravy, and simply heated +through next morning.</p> + + +<p>BRUNSWICK STEW.</p> + +<p>Two squirrels or small chickens; one quart of sliced +tomatoes; one pint of sweet corn; one pint of lima or +butter beans; one quart of sliced potatoes; two onions; +half a pound of fat salt pork.</p> + +<p>Cut the pork in slices, and fry brown; cut the squirrels +or chickens in pieces, and brown a little, adding the onion +cut fine. Now put all the materials in a soup-pot; cover +with two quarts of boiling water, and season with one +tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half a teaspoonful +of cayenne pepper. Stew slowly for four hours. +Just before serving, cream a large spoonful of butter +with a heaping tablespoonful of flour; thin with the broth, +and pour in, letting all cook five minutes longer. To be +eaten in soup-plates.</p> + + +<p>ROASTED MEATS.</p> + +<p>Our roasted meats are really <i>baked</i> meats; but ovens +are now so well made and ventilated, that there is little +difference of flavor in the two processes.</p> + +<p>Allow ten minutes to the pound if the meat is liked +rare, and from twelve to fifteen, if well done. It is al<a name="Page_155" id="Page_155"></a>ways +better to place the meat on a trivet or stand made to +fit easily in the roasting-pan, so that it may not become +sodden in the water used for gravy. Put into a hot oven, +that the surface may soon sear over and hold in the juices, +enough of which will escape for the gravy. All rough +bits should have been trimmed off, and a joint of eight or +ten pounds rubbed with a tablespoonful of salt. Dredge +thickly with flour, and let it brown on the meat before +basting it, which must be done as often as once in fifteen +minutes. Pepper lightly. If the water in the pan dries +away, add enough to have a pint for gravy in the end. +Dredge with flour at least twice, as this makes a crisp and +relishable outer crust. Take up the meat, when done, on +a hot platter. Make the gravy in the roasting-pan, by +setting it on top of the stove, and first scraping up all the +browning from the corners and bottom. If there is much +fat, pour it carefully off. If the dredging has been well +managed while roasting, the gravy will be thick enough. +If not, stir a teaspoonful of browned flour smooth in cold +water, and add. Should the gravy be too light, color with +a teaspoonful of caramel, and taste to see that the seasoning +is right.</p> + +<p><i>Mutton</i> requires fifteen minutes to the pound, unless +preferred rare, in which case ten will be sufficient. If a +tin kitchen is used, fifteen minutes for beef, and twenty +for mutton, will be needed.</p> + + +<p>STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON.</p> + +<p>Have the butcher take out the first joint in a leg of +mutton; or it can be done at home by using a very sharp, +narrow-bladed knife, and holding it close to the bone. +Rub in a tablespoonful of salt, and then fill with a dress<a name="Page_156" id="Page_156"></a>ing +made as follows: One pint of fine bread or cracker +crumbs, in which have been mixed dry one even tablespoonful +of salt and one of summer savory or thyme, and +one teaspoonful of pepper. Chop one onion very fine, +and add to it, with one egg well beaten. Melt a piece of +butter the size of an egg in a cup of hot water, and pour +on the crumbs. If not enough to thoroughly moisten +them, add a little more. Either fasten with a skewer, or +sew up, and roast as in previous directions. Skim all the +fat from the gravy, as the flavor of mutton-fat is never +pleasant. A tablespoonful of currant jelly may be put +into the gravy-tureen, and the gravy strained upon it. +The meat must be basted, and dredged with flour, as +carefully as beef. Both the shoulder and saddle are +roasted in the same way, but without stuffing; and the +leg may be also, though used to more advantage with +one.</p> + +<p>Lamb requires less time; a leg weighing six pounds +needing but one hour, or an hour and a quarter if roasted +before an open fire.</p> + + +<p>ROAST VEAL.</p> + +<p>Veal is so dry a meat, that a moist dressing is almost +essential. This dressing may be made as in the previous +receipt; or, instead of butter, quarter of a pound of salt +pork can be chopped fine, and mixed with it. If the loin +is used,—and this is always best,—take out the bone to +the first joint, and fill the hole with dressing, as in the +leg of mutton. In using the breast, bone also, reserving +the bones for stock; lay the dressing on it; roll, and tie +securely. Baste often. Three or four thin slices of salt +pork may be laid on the top; or, if this is not liked, melt +<a name="Page_157" id="Page_157"></a>a tablespoonful of butter in a cup of hot water, and baste +with that. Treat it as in directions for roasted meats, +but allow a full half-hour to the pound, and make the +gravy as for beef. Cold veal makes so many nice dishes, +that a large piece can always be used satisfactorily.</p> + + +<p>ROAST PORK.</p> + +<p>Bone the leg as in mutton, and stuff; substituting sage +for the sweet marjoram, and using two onions instead of +one. Allow half an hour to the pound, and make gravy +as for roast beef. Spare-ribs are considered most delicate; +and both are best eaten cold, the hot pork being +rather gross, and, whether hot or cold, less digestible +than any other meat.</p> + + +<p>ROAST VENISON.</p> + +<p>In winter venison can be kept a month; and, in all +cases, it should hang in a cold place at least a month +before using. Allow half an hour to a pound in roasting, +and baste very often. Small squares of salt pork are +sometimes inserted in incisions made here and there, and +help to enrich the gravy. In roasting a haunch it is +usually covered with a thick paste of flour and water, and +a paper tied over this, not less than four hours being +required to roast it. At the end of three, remove the +paper and paste, dredge and baste till well browned. The +last basting is with a glass of claret; and this, and half a +small glass of currant jelly are added to the gravy. Venison +steaks are treated as in directions for broiled meats.</p> + + +<p>BAKED PORK AND BEANS.</p> + +<p>Pick over one quart of dried beans, what is known as<a name="Page_158" id="Page_158"></a> +"navy beans" being the best, and soak over-night in +plenty of cold water.</p> + +<p>Turn off the water in the morning, and put on to boil in +cold water till tender,—at least one hour. An earthen +pot is always best for this, as a shallow dish does not +allow enough water to keep them from drying. Drain off +the water. Put the beans in the pot. Take half a pound +of salt pork, fat and lean together being best. Score the +skin in small squares with a knife, and bury it, all but the +surface of this rind, in the beans. Cover them completely +with boiling water. Stir in one tablespoonful of salt, +and two of good molasses. Cover, and bake slowly,—not +less than five hours,—renewing the water if it bakes +away. Take off the cover an hour before they are done, +that the pork may brown a little. If pork is disliked, use +a large spoonful of butter instead. Cold baked beans can +be warmed in a frying-pan with a little water, and are +even better than at first, or they can be used in a soup as +in directions given. A teaspoonful of made mustard is +sometimes stirred in, and gives an excellent flavor to a +pot of baked beans. Double the quality if the family is +large, as they keep perfectly well in winter, the only season +at which so hearty a dish is required, save for laborers.</p> + + +<p>BROILED AND FRIED MEATS.</p> + +<p>If the steak is tender, never pound or chop it. If +there is much fat, trim it off, or it will drop on the coals +and smoke. If tough, as in the country is very likely to +be the case, pounding becomes necessary, but a better +method is to use the chopping-knife; not chopping +through, but going lightly over the whole surface. +Broken as it may seem, it closes at once on the application +of a quick heat.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159"></a>The best <i>broiler</i> is by all means a light wire one, which +can be held in the hand and turned quickly. The fire +should be quick and hot. Place the steak in the centre of +the broiler, and hold it close to the coals an instant on each +side, letting both sear over before broiling really begins.</p> + +<p>Where a steak has been cut three-quarters of an inch +thick, ten minutes will be sufficient to cook it rare, and +fifteen will make it well done. Turn almost constantly, +and, when done, serve at once on a <i>hot dish</i>. Never salt +broiled meats beforehand, as it extracts the juices. Cut up +a tablespoonful of butter, and let it melt on the hot dish, +turning the steak in it once or twice. Salt and pepper +lightly, and, if necessary to have it stand at all, cover with +an earthen dish, or stand in the open oven. <i>Chops</i> and +<i>cutlets</i> are broiled in the same way. Veal is so dry a meat +that it is better fried.</p> + +<p>Where broiling for any reason cannot be conveniently +done, the next best method is to heat a frying-pan very +hot; grease it with a bit of fat cut from the steak, just +enough to prevent it from sticking. Turn almost as constantly +as in broiling, and season in the same way when +done. Venison steaks are treated in the same manner.</p> + + +<p>VEAL CUTLETS.</p> + +<p>Fry four or five slices of salt pork till brown, or use +drippings instead, if this fat is disliked. Let the cutlets, +which are best cut from the leg, be made as nearly of a +size as possible; dip them in well-beaten egg and then in +cracker-crumbs, and fry to a golden brown. Where the +veal is tough, it is better to parboil it for ten or fifteen +minutes before frying.<a name="Page_160" id="Page_160"></a></p> + + +<p>PORK STEAK.</p> + +<p>Pork steaks or chops should be cut quite thin, and +sprinkled with pepper and salt and a little powdered sage. +Have the pan hot; put in a tablespoonful of dripping, +and fry the pork slowly for twenty minutes, turning often. +A gravy can be made for these, and for veal cutlets also, +by mixing a tablespoonful of flour with the fat left in the +pan, and stirring it till a bright brown, then adding a +large cup of boiling water, and salt to taste; a saltspoonful +being sufficient, with half the amount of pepper.</p> + +<p>Pigs' liver, which many consider very nice, is treated in +precisely the same way, using a teaspoonful of powdered +sage to two pounds of liver.</p> + + +<p>FRIED HAM OR BACON.</p> + +<p>Cut the ham in very thin slices. Take off the rind, +and, if the ham is old or hard, parboil it for five minutes. +Have the pan hot, and, unless the ham is quite fat, use a +teaspoonful of drippings. Turn the slices often, and +cook from five to eight minutes. They can be served +dry, or, if gravy is liked, add a tablespoonful of flour to +the fat, stir till smooth, and pour in slowly a large cup +of milk or water. Salt pork can be fried in the same +way. If eggs are to be fried with the ham, take up the +slices, break in the eggs, and dip the boiling fat over them +as they fry. If there is not fat enough, add half a cup +of lard. To make each egg round, put muffin-rings into +the frying-pan, and break an egg into each, pouring the +boiling fat over them from a spoon till done, which will +be in from three to five minutes. Serve one on each slice +of ham, and make no gravy. The fat can be strained, +and used in frying potatoes.<a name="Page_161" id="Page_161"></a></p> + + +<p>FRIED TRIPE.</p> + +<p>The tripe can be merely cut in squares, rolled in flour, +salted and peppered, and fried brown in drippings, or the +pieces may be dipped in a batter made as for clam fritters, +or egged and crumbed like oysters, and fried. In cities +it can be bought already prepared. In the country it +must first be cleaned, and then boiled till tender.</p> + + +<p>TO WARM COLD MEATS.</p> + +<p>Cold roast beef should be cut in slices, the gravy +brought to boiling-point, and each slice dipped in just +long enough to heat, as stewing in the gravy toughens it. +Rare mutton is treated in the same way, but is nicer +warmed in a chafing-dish at table, adding a tablespoonful +of currant jelly and one of wine to the gravy. Venison +is served in the same manner. Veal and pork can cook +in the gravy without toughening, and so with turkey and +chicken. Cold duck or game is very nice warmed in the +same way as mutton, the bones in all cases being reserved +for stock.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="POULTRY" id="POULTRY" />POULTRY.</h2> + + +<p>TO CLEAN POULTRY.</p> + +<p>First be very careful to singe off all down by holding +over a blazing paper, or a little alcohol burning in a +saucer. Cut off the feet and ends of the wings, and the +neck as far as it is dark. If the fowl is killed at home, +be sure that the head is chopped off, and never allow +the neck to be wrung as is often done. It is not only +<a name="Page_162" id="Page_162"></a>an unmerciful way of killing, but the blood has thus no +escape, and settles about all the vital organs. The head +should be cut off, and the body hang and bleed thoroughly +before using.</p> + +<p>Pick out all the pin-feathers with the blade of a small +knife. Turn back the skin of the neck, loosening it with +the finger and thumb, and draw out the windpipe and crop, +which can be done without making any cut. Now cut a +slit in the lower part of the fowl, the best place being +close to the thigh. By working the fingers in slowly, +keeping them close to the body, the whole intestines can +be removed in a mass. Be especially careful not to break +the gall-bag, which is near the upper part of the breastbone, +and attached to the liver. If this operation is carefully +performed, it will be by no means so disagreeable as +it seems. A French cook simply wipes out the inside, +considering that much flavor is lost by washing. I prefer +to wash in one water, and dry quickly, though in the case +of an old fowl, which often has a strong smell, it is better +to dissolve a teaspoonful of soda in the first water, which +should be warm, and wash again in cold, then wiping dry +as possible. Split and wash the gizzard, reserving it for +gravy.</p> + + +<p>DRESSING FOR POULTRY.</p> + +<p>One pint of bread or cracker crumbs, into which mix +dry one teaspoonful of pepper, one of thyme or summer +savory, one even tablespoonful of salt, and, if in season, +a little chopped parsley. Melt a piece of butter the size +of an egg in one cup of boiling water, and mix with the +crumbs, adding one or two well-beaten eggs. A slice of +salt pork chopped fine is often substituted for the butter.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163"></a>For <i>ducks</i> two onions are chopped fine, and added to +the above; or a potato dressing is made, as for geese, +using six large boiled potatoes, mashed hot, and seasoned +with an even tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful each of +sage and pepper, and two chopped onions.</p> + +<p><i>Game</i> is usually roasted unstuffed; but grouse and +prairie-chickens may have the same dressing as chickens +and turkeys, this being used also for boiled fowls.</p> + + +<p>ROAST TURKEY.</p> + +<p>Prepare by cleaning, as in general directions above, and, +when dry, rub the inside with a teaspoonful of salt. Put +the gizzard, heart, and liver on the fire in a small saucepan, +with one quart of boiling water and one teaspoonful of +salt, and boil two hours. Put a little stuffing in the breast, +and fold back the skin of the neck, holding it with a stitch +or with a small skewer. Put the remainder in the body, +and sew it up with darning-cotton. Cross and tie the legs +down tight, and run a skewer through the wings to fasten +them to the body. Lay it in the roasting-pan, and for +an eight-pound turkey allow not less than three hours' +time, a ten or twelve pound one needing four. Put a pint +of boiling water with one teaspoonful of salt in the pan, +and add to it as it dries away. Melt a heaping tablespoonful +of butter in the water, and baste very often. +The secret of a handsomely-browned turkey, lies in this +frequent basting. Dredge over the flour two or three times, +as in general roasting directions, and turn the turkey so +that all sides will be reached. When done, take up on a +hot platter. Put the baking-pan on the stove, having +before this chopped the gizzard and heart fine, and mashed +the liver, and put them in the gravy-tureen. Stir a table<a name="Page_164" id="Page_164"></a>spoonful +of brown flour into the gravy in the pan, +scraping up all the brown, and add slowly the water in +which the giblets were boiled, which should be about a +pint. Strain on to the chopped giblets, and taste to see +if salt enough. The gravy for all roast poultry is made +in this way. Serve with cranberry sauce or jelly.</p> + + +<p>ROAST OR BOILED CHICKENS.</p> + +<p>Stuff and truss as with turkeys, and to a pair of chickens +weighing two and a half pounds each, allow one hour +to roast, basting often, and making a gravy as in preceding +receipt.</p> + +<p>Boil as in rule for turkeys.</p> + + +<p>ROAST DUCK.</p> + +<p>After cleaning, stuff as in rule given for poultry dressing, +and roast,—if game, half an hour; if tame, one +hour, making gravy as in directions given, and serving +with currant jelly.</p> + + +<p>ROAST GOOSE.</p> + +<p>No fat save its own is needed in basting a goose, +which, if large, requires two hours to roast. Skim off as +much fat as possible before making the gravy, as it has +a strong taste.</p> + + +<p>BIRDS.</p> + +<p>Small birds may simply be washed and wiped dry, tied +firmly, and roasted twenty minutes, dredging with flour, +basting with butter and water, and adding a little currant +jelly or wine to the gravy. They may be served on toast.<a name="Page_165" id="Page_165"></a></p> + + +<p>FRIED CHICKEN.</p> + +<p>Cut the chicken into nice pieces for serving. Roll in +flour, or, if preferred, in beaten egg and crumbs. Heat +a cupful of nice dripping or lard; add a teaspoonful of +salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; lay in the pieces, and +fry brown on each side, allowing not less than twenty +minutes for the thickest pieces and ten for the thin ones. +Lay on a hot platter, and make a gravy by adding one +tablespoonful of flour to the fat, stirring smooth, and +adding slowly one cupful of boiling water or stock. Strain +over the chicken. Milk or cream is often used instead of +water.</p> + + +<p>BROWN FRICASSEE.</p> + +<p>Fry one or two chickens as above, using only flour to +roll them in. Three or four slices of salt pork may be +used, cutting them in bits, and frying brown, before putting +in the chicken. When fried, lay the pieces in a +saucepan, and cover with warm water, adding one teaspoonful +of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cover +closely, and stew one hour, or longer if the chickens are +old. Take up the pieces, and thicken the gravy with one +tablespoonful of flour, first stirred smooth in a little cold +water. Or the flour may be added to the fat in the pan +after frying, and water enough for a thin gravy, which +can all be poured into the saucepan, though with this +method there is more danger of burning. If not dark +enough, color with a teaspoonful of caramel. By adding +a chopped onion fried in the fat, and a teaspoonful of +curry-powder, this becomes a curry, to be served with +boiled rice.<a name="Page_166" id="Page_166"></a></p> + + +<p>WHITE FRICASSEE.</p> + +<p>Cut up the chicken as in brown fricassee, and stew +without frying for an hour and a half, reducing the water +to about one pint. Take up the chicken on a hot platter. +Melt one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add +a heaping tablespoonful of flour, stirring constantly till +smooth. Pour in slowly one cup of milk, and, as it boils +and thickens, add the chicken broth, and serve. This +becomes a pot-pie by adding biscuit-crust as in rule for +veal pot-pie, p. 150, and serving in the same way. +The same crust may also be used with a brown fricassee, +but is most customary with a white.</p> + + +<p>CHICKEN PIE.</p> + +<p>Make a fricassee, as above directed, either brown or +white, as best liked, and a nice pie-crust, as on p. 224, +or a biscuit-crust if pie-crust is considered too rich. Line +a deep baking-dish with the crust; a good way being to +use a plain biscuit-crust for the lining, and pie-crust for +the lid. Lay in the cooked chicken; fill up with the +gravy, and cover with pastry, cutting a round hole in the +centre; and bake about three-quarters of an hour. The +top can be decorated with leaves made from pastry, and +in this case will need to have a buttered paper laid over it +for the first twenty minutes, that they need not burn. Eat +either cold or hot. Game pies can be made in the same +way, and veal is a very good substitute for chicken. +Where veal is used, a small slice of ham may be added, +and a little less salt; both veal and ham being cut very +small before filling the pie.<a name="Page_167" id="Page_167"></a></p> + + +<p>BOILED TURKEY.</p> + +<p>Clean, stuff, and truss the fowl selected, as for a +roasted turkey. The body is sometimes filled with oysters. +To truss in the tightest and most compact way, run +a skewer under the leg-joint between the leg and the thigh, +then through the body and under the opposite leg-joint in +the same way; push the thighs up firmly close to the +sides; wind a string about the ends of the skewer, and tie +it tight. Treat the wings in the same way, though in +boiled fowls the points are sometimes drawn under the +back, and tied there. The turkey may be boiled with or +without cloth around it. In either case use <i>boiling</i> water, +salted as for stock, and allow twenty minutes to the pound. +It is usually served with oyster sauce, but parsley or +capers may be used instead.</p> + + +<p>CHICKEN CROQUETTES.</p> + +<p>Take all the meat from a cold roast or boiled chicken, +and chop moderately fine. Mince an onion very small, +and fry brown in a piece of butter the size of an egg. +Add one small cup of stock or water; one saltspoonful +each of pepper and mace; one teaspoonful of salt; the +juice of half a lemon; two well-beaten eggs; and, if +liked, a glass of wine. Make into small rolls like corks, +or mold in a pear shape, sticking in a clove for the stem +when fried. Roll in sifted cracker-crumbs; dip in an +egg beaten with a spoonful of water, and again in +crumbs; put in the frying-basket, and fry in boiling lard. +Drain on brown paper, and pile on a napkin in serving.</p> + +<p>A more delicate croquette is made by using simply the +white meat, and adding a set of calf's brains which have +been boiled in salted water. A cupful of boiled rice +<a name="Page_168" id="Page_168"></a>mashed fine is sometimes substituted for the brains. Use +same seasoning as above, adding quarter of a saltspoonful +of cayenne, omitting the wine, and using instead half a +cup of cream or milk. Fry as directed. Veal croquettes +can hardly be distinguished from those of chicken.</p> + + +<p>PHILADELPHIA CHICKEN CROQUETTES.</p> + +<p>The croquette first given is dry when fried, and even +the second form is somewhat so, many preferring them so. +For the creamy delicious veal, sweetbread, or chicken +croquette one finds in Philadelphia, the following materials +are necessary: one pint of hot cream; two even +tablespoonfuls of butter; four heaping tablespoonfuls of +sifted flour; half a teaspoonful of salt; half a saltspoonful +of white pepper; a dust of cayenne; half a teaspoonful +of celery salt; and one teaspoonful of onion juice. Scald +the cream in a double boiler. Melt the butter in an +enameled or granite saucepan, and as it boils, stir in the +flour, stirring till perfectly smooth. Add the cream very +slowly, stirring constantly as it thickens, adding the +seasoning at the last. An egg may also be added, but the +croquettes are more creamy without it. To half a pound +of chicken chopped fine, add one teaspoonful of lemon +juice and one of minced parsley, one beaten egg and the +pint of cream sauce. Spread on a platter to cool, and +when cool make into shapes, either corks or like pears; +dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Oyster, +sweetbread, and veal croquettes are made by the same +form, using a pint of chopped oysters. To the sweetbreads +a small can of mushrooms may be added cut in +bits.<a name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></a></p> + + +<p>SALMI OF DUCKS OR GAME.</p> + +<p>Cut the meat from cold roast ducks or game into small +bits. Break the bones and trimmings, and cover with +stock or cold water, adding two cloves, two pepper-corns, +and a bay-leaf or pinch of sweet herbs. Boil till reduced +to a cupful for a pint of meat. Mince two small onions +fine, and fry brown in two tablespoonfuls of butter; then +add two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir till deep brown, +adding to it the strained broth from the bones. Put in +the bits of meat with one tablespoonful of lemon juice and +one of Worcestershire sauce. Simmer for fifteen minutes, +and at the last add, if liked, six or eight mushrooms and a +glass of claret. Serve on slices of fried bread, and garnish +with fried bread and parsley.</p> + + +<p>CASSEROLE OF RICE AND MEAT.</p> + +<p>This can be made of any kind of meat, but is nicest of +veal or poultry. Boil a large cup of rice till tender, and +let it cool. Chop fine half a pound of meat, and season +with half a teaspoonful of salt, a small grated onion, and +a teaspoonful of minced parsley and a pinch of cayenne. +Add a teacupful of cracker crumbs and a beaten egg, and +wet with stock or hot water enough to make it pack easily. +Butter a tin mould, quart size best, and line the bottom +and sides with rice about half an inch thick. Pack in the +meat; cover with rice, and steam one hour. Loosen at +edges; turn out on hot platter, and pour tomato sauce +around it.</p> + + +<p>ITALIA'S PRIDE.</p> + +<p>This is a favorite dish in the writer's family, having +been sent many years ago from Italy by a friend who had +<a name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></a>learned its composition from her Italian cook. Its name +was bestowed by the children of the house. One large cup +of chopped meat; two onions minced and fried brown in +butter; a pint of cold boiled macaroni or spaghetti; a +pint of fresh or cold stewed tomatoes; one teaspoonful of +salt; half a teaspoonful of white pepper. Butter a pudding +dish, and put first a layer of macaroni, then tomato, then +meat and some onion and seasoning, continuing this till +the dish is full. Cover with fine bread crumbs, dot with +bits of butter, and bake for half an hour. Serve very +hot.</p> + + +<p>DEVILED HAM.</p> + +<p>For this purpose use either the knuckle or any odds +and ends remaining. Cut off all dark or hard bits, and +see that at least a quarter of the amount is fat. Chop as +finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. For a +pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows:—</p> + +<p>One even tablespoonful of sugar; one even teaspoonful +of ground mustard; one saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; +one spoonful of butter; one teacupful of boiling vinegar. +Mix the sugar, mustard, and pepper thoroughly, and add +the vinegar little by little. Stir it into the chopped ham, +and pack it in small molds, if it is to be served as a lunch +or supper relish, turning out upon a small platter and garnishing +with parsley.</p> + +<p>For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin; butter lightly, +and spread with about a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. +The root of a boiled tongue can be prepared in the same +way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in little jars, +and pour melted butter over the top.<a name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></a></p> + + +<p>BONED TURKEY.</p> + +<p>This is a delicate dish, and is usually regarded as an +impossibility for any ordinary housekeeper; and unless +one is getting up a supper or other entertainment, it is +hardly worth while to undertake it. If the legs and wings +are left on, the boning becomes much more difficult. The +best plan is to cut off both them and the neck, boiling all +with the turkey, and using the meat for croquettes or +hash.</p> + +<p>Draw only the crop and windpipe, as the turkey is more +easily handled before dressing. Choose a fat hen turkey +of some six or seven pounds weight, and cut off legs up to +second joint, with half the wings and the neck. Now, +with a very sharp knife, make a clean cut down the entire +back, and holding the knife close to the body, cut away +the flesh, first on one side and then another, making a +clean cut around the pope's nose. Be very careful, in cutting +down the breastbone, not to break through the skin. +The entire meat will now be free from the bones, save the +pieces remaining in legs and wings. Cut out these, and +remove all sinews. Spread the turkey skin-side down on +the board. Cut out the breasts, and cut them up in long, +narrow pieces, or as you like. Chop fine a pound and a +half of veal or fresh pork, and a slice of fat ham also. +Season with one teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful each +of mace and pepper, half a saltspoonful of cayenne, and +the juice of lemon. Cut half a pound of cold boiled +smoked tongue into dice. Make layers of this force-meat, +putting half of it on the turkey and then the dice of +tongue, with strips of the breast between, using force meat +for the last layer. Roll up the turkey in a tight roll, and +<a name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></a>sew the skin together. Now roll it firmly in a napkin, +tying at the ends and across in two places to preserve the +shape. Cover it with boiling water, salted as for stock, +putting in all the bones and giblets, and two onions stuck +with three cloves each. Boil four hours. Let it cool in +the liquor. Take up in a pan, lay a tin sheet on it, and +press with a heavy weight. Strain the water in which it +was boiled, and put in a cold place.</p> + +<p>Next day take off the napkin, and set the turkey in the +oven a moment to melt off any fat. It can be sliced and +eaten in this way, but makes a handsomer dish served as +follows:</p> + +<p>Remove the fat from the stock, and heat three pints of +it to boiling-point, adding two-thirds of a package of +gelatine which has been soaked in a little cold water. +Strain a cupful of this into some pretty mold,—an ear +of corn is a good shape,—and the remainder in two +pans or deep plates, coloring each with caramel,—a teaspoonful +in one, and two in the other. Lay the turkey on +a small platter turned face down in a larger one, and when +the jelly is cold and firm, put the molded form on top of +it. Now cut part of the jelly into rounds with a pepper-box +top or a small star-cutter, and arrange around the +mold, chopping the rest and piling about the edge, so +that the inner platter or stand is completely concealed. +The outer row of jelly can have been colored red by cutting +up, and boiling in the stock for it, half of a red beet. +Sprigs of parsley or delicate celery-tops may be used as +garnish, and it is a very elegant-looking as well as savory +dish. The legs and wings can be left on and trussed outside, +if liked, making it as much as possible in the original +shape; but it is no better, and much more trouble.<a name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></a></p> + + +<p>JELLIED CHICKEN.</p> + +<p>Tenderness is no object here, the most ancient dweller +in the barnyard answering equally well, and even better +than "broilers."</p> + +<p>Draw carefully, and if the fowl is old, wash it in water +in which a spoonful of soda has been dissolved, rinsing in +cold. Put on in cold water, and season with a tablespoonful +of salt and a half teaspoonful of pepper. Boil +till the meat slips easily from the bones, reducing the +broth to about a quart. Strain, and when cold, take off +the fat. Where any floating particles remain, they can +always be removed by laying a piece of soft paper on the +broth for a moment. Cut the breast in long strips, and +the rest of the meat in small pieces. Boil two or three +eggs hard, and when cold, cut in thin slices. Slice a +lemon very thin. Dissolve half a package of gelatine in +a little cold water; heat the broth to boiling-point, and +add a saltspoonful of mace, and if liked, a glass of +sherry, though it is not necessary, pouring it on the +gelatine. Choose a pretty mold, and lay in strips of the +breast; then a layer of egg-slices, putting them close +against the mold. Nearly fill with chicken, laid in lightly; +then strain on the broth till it is nearly full, and set in a +cold place. Dip for an instant in hot water before turning +out. It is nice as a supper or lunch dish, and very +pretty in effect.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="SAUCES_AND_SALADS" id="SAUCES_AND_SALADS" />SAUCES AND SALADS.</h2> + + +<p>The foundation for a large proportion of sauces is in +what the French cook knows as a <i>roux</i>, and we as "drawn +butter." As our drawn butter is often lumpy, or with +<a name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></a>the taste of the raw flour, I give the French method as a +security against such disaster.</p> + + +<p>TO MAKE A ROUX.</p> + +<p>Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an egg, +and add two even tablespoonfuls of sifted flour; one +ounce of butter to two of flour being a safe rule. Stir +till smooth, and pour in slowly one pint of milk, or milk +and water, or water alone. With milk it is called <i>cream +roux</i>, and is used for boiled fish and poultry. Where +the butter and flour are allowed to brown, it is called a +<i>brown roux</i>, and is thinned with the soup or stew which +it is designed to thicken. Capers added to a <i>white +roux</i>—which is the butter and flour, with water added—give +<i>caper sauce</i>, for use with boiled mutton. Pickled +nasturtiums are a good substitute for capers. Two hard-boiled +eggs cut fine give egg sauce. Chopped parsley or +pickle, and the variety of catchups and sauces, make an +endless variety; the <i>white roux</i> being the basis for all of +them.</p> + + +<p>BREAD SAUCE.</p> + +<p>For this sauce boil one point of milk, with one onion +cut in pieces. When it has boiled five minutes, take out +the onion, and thicken the milk with half a pint of sifted +bread-crumbs. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in a frying-pan; +put in half a pint of coarser crumbs, stirring them +till a light brown. Flavor the sauce with half a teaspoonful +of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a grate of nutmeg; +and serve with game, helping a spoonful of the +sauce, and one of the browned crumbs. The boiled onion +may be minced fine and added, and the browned crumbs +omitted.<a name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></a></p> + + +<p>CELERY SAUCE.</p> + +<p>Wash and boil a small head of celery, which has been +cut up fine, in one pint of water, with half a teaspoonful +of salt. Boil till tender, which will require about half an +hour. Make a <i>cream roux</i>, using half a pint of milk, +and adding quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper. Stir +into the celery; boil a moment, and serve. A teaspoonful +of celery salt can be used, if celery is out of season, +adding it to the full rule for <i>cream roux</i>. Cauliflower may +be used in the same way as celery, cutting it very fine, +and adding a large cupful to the sauce. Use either with +boiled meats.</p> + + +<p>MINT SAUCE.</p> + +<p>Look over and strip off the leaves, and cut them as +fine as possible with a sharp knife. Use none of the +stalk but the tender tips. To a cupful of chopped mint +allow an equal quantity of sugar, and half a cup of good +vinegar. It should stand an hour before using.</p> + + +<p>CRANBERRY SAUCE.</p> + +<p>Wash one quart of cranberries in warm water, and pick +them over carefully. Put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, +with one pint of cold water and one pint of sugar, and +cook without stirring for half an hour, turning then into +molds. This is the simplest method. They can be +strained through a sieve, and put in bowls, forming a +marmalade, which can be cut in slices when cold; or the +berries can be crushed with a spoon while boiling, but +left unstrained.<a name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></a></p> + + +<p>APPLE SAUCE.</p> + +<p>Pare, core, and quarter some apples (sour being best), +and stew till tender in just enough water to cover them. +Rub them through a sieve, allowing a teacupful of sugar to +a quart of strained apple, or even less, where intended to +eat with roast pork or goose. Where intended for lunch or +tea, do not strain, but treat as follows: Make a sirup of one +large cupful of sugar and one of water for every dozen good-sized +apples. Add half a lemon, cut in very thin slices. +Put in the apple; cover closely, and stew till tender, keeping +the quarters as whole as possible. The lemon may be +omitted.</p> + + +<p>PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE.</p> + +<p>Make a <i>white roux</i>, with a pint of either water or milk; +but water will be very good. Add to it a large cup of +sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon or any essence liked, and +a wine-glass of wine. Vinegar can be substituted. Grate +in a little nutmeg, and serve hot.</p> + + +<p>MOLASSES SAUCE.</p> + +<p>This sauce is intended especially for apple dumplings +and puddings. One pint of molasses; one tablespoonful +of butter; the juice of one lemon, or a large spoonful +of vinegar. Boil twenty minutes. It may be thickened +with a tablespoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little +cold water, but is good in either case.</p> + + +<p>FOAMING SAUCE.</p> + +<p>Cream half a cup of butter till very light, and add a +heaping cup of sugar, beating both till white. Set the +bowl in which it was beaten into a pan of boiling water, +<a name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></a>and allow it to melt slowly. Just before serving but <i>not +before</i>, pour into it slowly half a cup or four spoonfuls of +boiling water, stirring to a thick foam. Grate in nutmeg, +or use a teaspoonful of lemon essence, and if wine is +liked, add a glass of sherry or a tablespoonful of brandy. +For a pudding having a decided flavor of its own, a sauce +without wine is preferable.</p> + + +<p>HARD SAUCE</p> + +<p>Beat together the same proportions of butter and sugar +as in the preceding receipt; add a tablespoonful of wine +if desired; pile lightly on a pretty dish; grate nutmeg +over the top, and set in a cold place till used.</p> + + +<p>FRUIT SAUCES.</p> + +<p>The sirup of any nice canned fruit may be used cold +as sauce for cold puddings and blancmanges, or heated +and thickened for hot, allowing to a pint of juice a heaping +teaspoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold +water, and boiling it five minutes. Strawberry or raspberry +sirup is especially nice.</p> + + +<p>PLAIN SALAD DRESSING.</p> + +<p>Three tablespoonfuls of best olive-oil; one tablespoonful +of vinegar; one saltspoonful each of salt and pepper +mixed together; and then, with three tablespoonfuls of +best olive-oil, adding last the tablespoonful of vinegar. +This is the simplest form of dressing. The lettuce, or +other salad material, must be fresh and crisp, and should +not be mixed till the moment of eating.<a name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></a></p> + + +<p>SPANISH TOMATO SAUCE.</p> + +<p>One can of tomatoes or six large fresh ones; two +minced onions fried brown in a large tablespoonful of +butter. Add to the tomatoes with three sprigs of parsley +and thyme, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a one of +pepper; three cloves and two allspice, with a small blade +of mace and a bit of lemon peel, and two lumps of sugar. +Stew very slowly for two hours, then rub through a sieve, +and return to the fire. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour, +browned with a tablespoonful of butter, and boil up once. +It should be smooth and thick. Keep on ice, and it will +keep a week. Excellent.</p> + + +<p>MAYONNAISE SAUCE.</p> + +<p>For this sauce use the yolks of three raw eggs; one +even tablespoonful of mustard; one of sugar; one teaspoonful +of salt; and a saltspoonful of cayenne.</p> + +<p>Break the egg yolks into a bowl; beat a few strokes, +and gradually add the mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. +Now take a pint bottle of best olive-oil, and stir in a few +drops at a time. The sauce will thicken like a firm jelly. +When the oil is half in, add the juice of one lemon by +degrees with the remainder of the oil; and last, add +quarter of a cup of good vinegar. This will keep for +weeks, and can be used with either chicken, salmon, or +vegetable salad.</p> + +<p>A simpler form can be made with the yolk of one egg, +half a pint of oil, and half the ingredients given above. +It can be colored red with the juice of a boiled beet, or +with the coral of a lobster, and is very nice as a dressing +for raw tomatoes, cutting them in thick slices, and putting +a little of it on each slice.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></a>Mayonnaise may be varied in many ways, <i>sauce tartare</i> +being a favorite one. This is simply two even tablespoonfuls +of capers, half a small onion, and a tablespoonful +of parsley, and two gherkins or a small cucumber, all +minced fine and added to half a pint of mayonnaise. +This keeps a long time, and is very nice for fried fish or +plain boiled tongue.</p> + + +<p>DRESSING WITHOUT OIL.</p> + +<p>Cream a small cup of butter, and stir into it the yolks +of three eggs. Mix together one teaspoonful of mustard, +one teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of +cayenne, and add to the butter and egg. Stir in slowly, +instead of oil, one cup of cream, and add the juice of one +lemon and half a cup of vinegar.</p> + + +<p>BOILED DRESSING FOR COLD SLAW.</p> + +<p>This is good also for vegetable salads. One small cup +of good vinegar; two tablespoonfuls of sugar; half a +teaspoonful each of salt and mustard; a saltspoonful of +pepper; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; and two +beaten eggs. Put these all in a small saucepan over the +fire, and stir till it becomes a smooth paste. Have a firm, +white cabbage, very cold, and chopped fine; and mix the +dressing well through it. It will keep several days in a +cold place.</p> + + +<p>CHICKEN SALAD.</p> + +<p>Boil a tender chicken, and when cold, cut all the meat +in dice. Cut up white tender celery enough to make the +same amount, and mix with the meat. Stir into it a tablespoonful +of oil with three of vinegar, and a saltspoonful +each of mustard and salt, and let it stand an hour or two.<a name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></a> +When ready to serve, mix the whole with a mayonnaise +sauce, leaving part to mask the top; or use the mayonnaise +alone, without the first dressing of vinegar and oil. +Lettuce can be substituted for celery; and where neither +is obtainable, a crisp white cabbage may be chopped fine, +and the meat of the chicken also, and either a teaspoonful +of extract of celery or celery-seed used to flavor it The +fat of the chicken, taken from the water in which it was +boiled, carefully melted and strained, and cooled again, +is often used by Southern housekeepers.</p> + + +<p>SALMON MAYONNAISE.</p> + +<p>Carefully remove all the skin and bones from a pound +of boiled salmon, or use a small can of the sealed, draining +away all the liquid. Cut in small pieces, and season +with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a small onion +minced fine, and half a teaspoonful each of salt and +pepper. Cover the bottom of the salad dish with crisp +lettuce-leaves; lay the salmon on it, and pour on the sauce. +The meat of a lobster can be treated in the same way.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="EGGS_CHEESE_AND_BREAKFAST_DISHES" id="EGGS_CHEESE_AND_BREAKFAST_DISHES" />EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST +DISHES.</h2> + + +<p>BOILED EGGS.</p> + +<p>Let the water be boiling fast when the eggs are put in, +that it may not be checked. They should have lain in +warm water a few minutes before boiling, to prevent the +shells cracking. Allow three minutes for a soft-boiled +egg; four, to have the white firmly set; and ten, for a +<a name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></a>hard-boiled egg. Another method is to pour boiling water +on the eggs, and let them stand for ten minutes where +they will be nearly at boiling-point, though not boiling. +The white and yolk are then perfectly cooked, and of jelly-like +consistency.</p> + + +<p>POACHED EGGS.</p> + +<p>Have a deep frying-pan full of boiling water,—simmering, +not boiling furiously. Put in two teaspoonfuls of +vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt. Break each egg into +a cup or saucer, allowing one for each person; slide gently +into the water, and let them stand five minutes, but without +boiling. Have ready small slices of buttered toast +which have been previously dipped quickly into hot water. +Take up the eggs on a skimmer; trim the edges evenly, +and slip off upon the toast, serving at once. For fried +eggs, see <i>Ham and Eggs</i>, p. 158.</p> + + +<p>SCRAMBLED EGGS.</p> + +<p>Break half a dozen eggs into a bowl, and beat for a +minute. Have the frying-pan hot. Melt a tablespoonful +of butter, with an even teaspoonful of salt and a +saltspoonful of pepper, and turn in the eggs. Stir them +constantly as they harden, until they are a firm yet delicate +mixture of white and yellow, and turn into a hot +dish, serving at once. A cup of milk may be added if +liked. The whole operation should not exceed five +minutes.</p> + + +<p>BAKED EGGS.</p> + +<p>Break the eggs into a buttered pudding-dish. Salt and +pepper them very lightly, and bake in a quick oven till +set. Or turn over them a cupful of good gravy, that of +<a name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></a>veal or poultry being especially nice, and bake in the +same way. Serve in the dish they were baked in.</p> + + +<p>STUFFED EGGS.</p> + +<p>Boil eggs for twenty minutes. Drop them in cold water, +and when cold, take off the shells, and cut the egg in two +lengthwise. Take out the yolks carefully; rub them fine +on a plate, and add an equal amount of deviled ham, or of +cold tongue or chicken, minced very fine. If chicken is +used, add a saltspoonful of salt and a pinch of cayenne. +Roll the mixture into little balls the size of the yolk; +fill each white with it; arrange on a dish with sprigs of +parsley, and use cold as a lunch dish. They can also be +served hot by laying them in a deep buttered pie-plate, +covering with a cream <i>roux</i>, dusting thickly with bread-crumbs, +and browning in a quick oven.</p> + + +<p>PLAIN OMELET.</p> + +<p>The pan for frying an omelet should be clean and +very smooth. Break the eggs one by one into a cup, +to avoid the risk of a spoiled one. Allow from three +to five, but never <i>over</i> five, for a single omelet. Turn +them into a bowl, and give them twelve beats with whisk +or fork. Put butter the size of an egg into the frying-pan, +and let it run over the entire surface. As it begins +to boil, turn in the eggs. Hold the handle of the pan +in one hand, and with the other draw the egg constantly +up from the edges as it sets, passing a knife underneath +to let the butter run under. Shake the pan now and then +to keep the omelet from scorching. It should be firm at +the edges, and creamy in the middle. When done, either +<a name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></a>fold over one-half on the other, and turn on to a hot platter +to serve at once, or set in the oven a minute to brown +the top, turning it out in a round. A little chopped ham +or parsley may be added. The myriad forms of omelet to +be found in large cook-books are simply this plain one, +with a spoonful or so of chopped mushrooms or tomatoes +or green pease laid in the middle of it just before folding +and serving. A variation is also made by beating whites +and yolks separately, then adding half a cup of cream or +milk; doubling the seasoning given above, and then following +the directions for frying. Quarter of an onion and a +sprig or two of parsley minced fine are a very nice addition. +A cupful of finely minced fish, either fresh or salt, +makes a fish omlet. Chopped oysters may also be used; +and many persons like a large spoonful of grated cheese, +though this is a French rather than American taste.</p> + + +<p>BAKED OMELET.</p> + +<p>One large cup of milk; five eggs; a saltspoonful of +salt; and half a one of white pepper mixed with the last. +Beat the eggs well, a Dover egg-beater being the best +possible one where yolks and whites are not separated; +add the salt and pepper, and then the milk. Melt a piece +of butter the size of an egg in a frying-pan, and when it +boils, pour in the egg. Let it stand two minutes, or long +enough to harden a little, but do not stir at all. When a +little firm, put into a quick oven, and bake till brown. It +will rise very high, but falls almost immediately. Serve +at once on a very hot platter. This omelet can also be +varied with chopped ham or parsley. The old-fashioned +iron spider with short handle is best for baking it, as a +<a name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></a>long-handled pan cannot be shut up in the oven. This +omelet can also be fried in large spoonfuls, like pancakes, +rolling each one as done.</p> + + +<p>CHEESE FONDU.</p> + +<p>This preparation of grated cheese and eggs can be made +in a large dish for several people, or in "portions" for +one, each in a small earthen dish. For one portion allow +two eggs; half a saltspoonful of salt; a heaping tablespoonful +of grated cheese; two of milk; and a few grains +of cayenne. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in the dish, +and when it boils, pour in the cheese and egg, and cook +slowly till it is well set. It is served in the dish in which +it is cooked, and should be eaten at once.</p> + +<p>An adaptation of this has been made by Mattieu +Williams, the author of the "Chemistry of Cookery." +It is as follows:—</p> + +<p>Soak enough slices of bread to fill a quart pudding-dish, +in a pint of milk, to which half a teaspoonful of salt and +two beaten eggs have been added. Butter the pudding-dish +and lay in the bread, putting a thick coating of +grated cheese on each slice. Pour what milk may remain +over the top, and bake slowly about half an hour.</p> + + +<p>CHEESE SOUFFLÉ.</p> + +<p>Melt in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and +add to it half a teaspoonful of dry mustard; a grain of +cayenne; a saltspoonful of white pepper; a grate of nutmeg; +two tablespoonfuls of flour; and stir all smooth, +adding a gill of milk and a large cupful of grated cheese. +Stir into this as much powdered bi-carbonate of potash as +<a name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></a>will stand on a three-cent piece, and then beat in three +eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. Pour this +into a buttered earthen dish; bake in a quick oven, and +serve at once. In all cases where cheese disagrees it +will be found that the bi-carbonate of potash renders it +harmless.</p> + + +<p>TO BOIL OATMEAL OR CRUSHED WHEAT.</p> + +<p>Have ready a quart of boiling water in a farina-boiler, +or use a small pail set in a saucepan of boiling water. +If oatmeal or any grain is boiled in a single saucepan, +it forms, no matter how often it is stirred, a thick crust +on the bottom; and, as <i>never to stir</i> is a cardinal rule for +all these preparations, let the next one be, a double boiler.</p> + +<p>Add a teaspoonful of salt to the quart of water in the +inside boiler. Be sure it is boiling, and then throw in one +even cup of oatmeal or crushed wheat. Now <i>let it alone</i> +for two hours, only being sure that the water in the outside +saucepan does not dry away, but boils steadily. +When done, each grain should be distinct, yet jelly-like. +Stirring makes a mere mush, neither very attractive nor +palatable. If there is not time for this long boiling in +the morning, let it be done the afternoon before. Do +not turn out the oatmeal, but fill the outer boiler next +morning, and let it boil half an hour, or till heated +through.</p> + + +<p>COARSE HOMINY.</p> + +<p>Treat like oatmeal, using same amount to a quart of +water, save that it must be thoroughly washed beforehand. +Three hours' boiling is better than two.<a name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></a></p> + + +<p>FINE HOMINY.</p> + +<p>Allow a cupful to a quart of boiling, salted water. +Wash it in two or three waters, put over, and boil steadily +for half an hour, or till it will pour out easily. If too +thin, boil uncovered for a short time. Stir in a tablespoonful +of butter before sending to table. Any of these +preparations may be cut in slices when cold, floured on +each side, and fried brown like mush.</p> + + +<p>FINE HOMINY CAKES.</p> + +<p>One pint of cold boiled hominy; two eggs; a saltspoonful +of salt; and a tablespoonful of butter melted. +Break up the hominy fine with a fork, and add salt and +butter. Beat the eggs,—whites and yolks separately; +add the yolks first, and last the whites; and either fry +brown in a little butter or drop by spoonfuls on buttered +plates, and bake brown in a quick oven. This is a nice +side-dish at dinner. Oatmeal and wheat can be used in +the same way at breakfast.</p> + + +<p>HASTY PUDDING, OR MUSH.</p> + +<p>One cup of sifted Indian meal, stirred smooth in a +bowl with a little cold water. Have ready a quart of +boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt, and pour in the +meal. Boil half an hour, or till it will just pour, stirring +often. To be eaten hot with butter and sirup. Rye or +graham flour can be used in the same way. If intended +to fry, pour the hot mush into a shallow pan which has +been wet with cold water to prevent its sticking. A +spoonful of butter may be added while hot, but is not +<a name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></a>necessary. Cut in thin slices when cold; flour each side; +and fry brown in a little butter or nice drippings, serving +hot.</p> + + +<p>WHAT TO DO WITH COLD POTATOES.</p> + +<p>Chop, as for hash; melt a tablespoonful of either butter +or nice drippings in a frying-pan; add, for six or eight +good-sized potatoes, one even teaspoonful of salt and a +saltspoonful of pepper. When the fat boils, put in the +potatoes, and fry for about ten minutes, or until well +browned. As soon as they are done, if not ready to use, +move to the back of the stove, that they may not burn.</p> + +<p>Or cut each potato in lengthwise slices; dredge on a +little flour; and fry brown on each side, watching carefully +that they do not burn. The fat from two or three slices +of fried salt pork may be used for these.</p> + + +<p>LYONNAISE POTATOES.</p> + +<p>Slice six cold boiled potatoes. Mince very fine an +onion and two or three sprigs of parsley,—enough to +fill a teaspoon. Melt in a frying-pan a tablespoonful of +butter; put in the onion, and fry light brown; then add +the potatoes, and fry to a light brown also, turning them +often. Put into a hot dish, stirring in the minced parsley, +and pouring over them any butter that may be left in the +pan.</p> + + +<p>STEWED POTATOES.</p> + +<p>One pint of cold boiled potatoes cut in bits; one cup of +milk; butter the size of an egg; a heaping teaspoonful +of flour. Melt the butter in a saucepan; add the flour, +and cook a moment; and pour in the milk, an even tea<a name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></a>spoonful +of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. +When it boils, add the potatoes. Boil a minute, and +serve.</p> + + +<p>SARATOGA POTATOES.</p> + +<p>Pare potatoes, and slice thin as wafers, either with a +potato-slicer or a thin-bladed, very sharp knife. Lay +in very cold water at least an hour before using. If for +breakfast, over-night is better. Have boiling lard at +least three inches deep in a frying kettle or pan. Dry +the potatoes thoroughly in a towel, and drop in a few +slices at a time, frying to a golden brown. Take out +with a skimmer, and lay on a double brown paper in +the oven to dry, salting them lightly. They may be +eaten either hot or cold. Three medium-sized potatoes +will make a large dishful; or, as they keep perfectly well, +enough may be done at once for several meals, heating +them a few minutes in the oven before using.</p> + + +<p>FISH BALLS.</p> + +<p>One pint of cold salt fish, prepared as on page 136, +and chopped very fine. Eight good-sized, freshly-boiled +potatoes, or enough to make a quart when mashed. Mash +with half a teaspoonful of salt, and a heaping tablespoonful +of butter, and, if liked, a teaspoonful of made +mustard. Mix in the chopped fish, blending both thoroughly. +Make into small, round cakes; flour on each +side; and fry brown in a little drippings or fat of fried +pork. A nicer way is to make into round balls, allowing +a large tablespoonful to each. Roll in flour; or they can +be egged and crumbed like croquettes. Drop into boiling +lard; drain on brown paper, and serve hot. Fresh fish +<a name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></a>can be used in the same way, and is very nice. Breadcrumbs, +softened in milk, can be used instead of potato, +but are not so good.</p> + + +<p>FISH HASH.</p> + +<p>Use either fresh fish or salt. If the former, double +the measure of salt will be needed. Prepare and mix as +in fish balls, allowing always double the amount of fresh +mashed potato that you have of fish. Melt a large spoonful +of butter or drippings in a frying-pan. When hot, +put in the fish. Let it stand till brown on the bottom, and +then stir. Do this two or three times, letting it brown at +the last, pressing it into omelet form, and turning out on a +hot platter, or piling it lightly.</p> + + +<p>FISH WITH CREAM.</p> + +<p>One pint of cold minced fish, either salt cod or fresh +fish; always doubling the amount of seasoning given if +fresh is used. Melt in a frying-pan a tablespoonful of +butter; stir in a heaping one of flour, and cook a minute; +then add a pint of milk and a saltspoonful each of salt +and pepper. When it boils, stir in the fish, and add two +well-beaten eggs. Cook for a minute, and serve very hot.</p> + +<p>Cold salmon, or that put up unspiced, is nice done in +this way. The eggs can be omitted, but it is not as good. +If cream is plenty, use part cream. Any cold boiled +fresh fish can be used in this way.</p> + + +<p>SALT MACKEREL OR ROE HERRING.</p> + +<p>Soak over-night, the skin-side up. In the morning +wipe dry, and either broil, as in general directions for +<a name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></a>broiling fish, page 133, or fry brown in pork fat or +drippings.</p> + +<p>Salted shad are treated in the same way. All are +better broiled.</p> + + +<p>FRIED SAUSAGES.</p> + +<p>If in skins, prick them all over with a large darning-needle +or fork; throw them into a saucepan of boiling +water and boil for one minute. Take out, wipe dry, and +lay in a hot frying-pan, in which has been melted a tablespoonful +of hot lard or drippings. Turn often. As soon +as brown they are done. If gravy is wanted, stir a tablespoonful +of flour into the fat in the pan; add a cup of +boiling water, and salt to taste,—about a saltspoonful,—and +pour, not <i>over</i>, but around the sausages. Serve +hot.</p> + + +<p>FRIZZLED BEEF.</p> + +<p>Half a pound of smoked beef cut very thin. This can +be just heated in a tablespoonful of hot butter, and then +served, or prepared as follows:—</p> + +<p>Pour boiling water on the beef, and let it stand five +minutes. In the meantime melt in a frying-pan one +tablespoonful of butter; stir in a tablespoonful of flour, +and add slowly half a pint of milk or water. Put in the +beef which has been taken from the water; cook a few +minutes, and add two or three well-beaten eggs, cooking +only a minute longer. It can be prepared without eggs, +or they may be added to the beef just heated in butter; +but the last method is best.<a name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></a></p> + + +<p>VEAL LOAF.</p> + +<p>Three pounds of lean veal and quarter of a pound of +salt pork chopped very fine. Mince an onion as fine as +possible. Grate a nutmeg, or use half a teaspoonful of +powdered mace, mixing it with an even tablespoonful +of salt, and an even saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. +Add three well-beaten eggs, a teacupful of milk, and a +large spoonful of melted butter. Mix the ingredients very +thoroughly; form into a loaf; cover thickly with sifted +bread or cracker crumbs, and bake three hours, basting +now and then with a little butter and water. When cold, +cut in thin slices, and use for breakfast or tea. It is +good for breakfast with baked potatoes, and slices of it +are sometimes served around a salad. A glass of wine is +sometimes added before baking.</p> + + +<p>MEAT HASH.</p> + +<p>The English hash is meat cut either in slices or mouthfuls, +and warmed in the gravy; and the Southern hash +is the same. A genuine hash, however, requires potato, +and may be made of any sort of meat; cold roast beef +being excellent, and cold corned beef best of all. Mutton +is good; but veal should always be used as a mince, and +served on toast as in the rule to be given.</p> + +<p>Chop the meat fine, and allow one-third meat to two-thirds +potato. For corned-beef hash the potatoes should +be freshly boiled and mashed. For other cold meats +finely-chopped cold potatoes will answer. To a quart of +the mixture allow a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful +of pepper mixed together, and sprinkled on the +meat before chopping. Heat a tablespoonful of butter or +nice drippings in a frying-pan; moisten the hash with a +<a name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></a>little cold gravy or water; and heat slowly, stirring often. +It may be served on buttered toast when hot, without +browning, but is better browned. To accomplish this, +first heat through, then set on the back of the stove, and +let it stand twenty minutes. Fold like an omelet, or turn +out in a round, and serve hot.</p> + + +<p>MINCED VEAL.</p> + +<p>Chop cold veal fine, picking out all bits of gristle. To +a pint-bowlful allow a large cup of boiling water; a tablespoonful +of butter and one of flour; a teaspoonful of +salt; and a saltspoonful each of pepper and mace. Make +a <i>roux</i> with the butter and flour, and add the seasoning; +put in the veal, and cook five minutes, serving it on buttered +toast, made as in directions given for water toast.</p> + + +<p>TOAST, DRY OR BUTTERED.</p> + +<p>Not one person in a hundred makes good toast; yet +nothing can be simpler. Cut the slices of bread evenly, +and rather thin. If a wire toaster is used, several can +be done at once. Hold just far enough from the fire to +brown nicely; and turn often, that there may be no +scorching. Toast to an even, golden brown. No rule +will secure this, and only experience and care will teach +one just what degree of heat will do it. If to be +buttered dry, butter each slice evenly as taken from the +fire, and pile on a hot plate. If served without butter, +either send to table in a toast-rack, or, if on a plate, do +not pile together, but let the slices touch as little as possible, +that they may not steam and lose crispness.<a name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></a></p> + + +<p>WATER TOAST.</p> + +<p>Have a pan of boiling hot, well-salted water; a teaspoonful +to a quart being the invariable rule. Dip each +slice of toast quickly into this. It must not be <i>wet</i>, but +only moistened. Butter, and pile on a hot plate. Poached +eggs and minces are served on this form of toast, which +is also nice with fricasseed chicken.</p> + + +<p>MILK TOAST.</p> + +<p>Scald a quart of milk in a double boiler, and thicken it +with two even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved in a +little cold water, or the same amount of flour. Add a +teaspoonful of salt, and a heaping tablespoonful of butter. +Have ready a dozen slices of water toast, which, unless +wanted quite rich, needs no butter. Pour the thickened +milk into a pan, that each slice may be easily dipped into +it, and pile them when dipped in a deep dish, pouring the +rest of the milk over them. Serve very hot. Cream is +sometimes used instead of milk, in which case no thickening +is put in, and only a pint heated with a saltspoonful +of salt.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + + +<h2><a name="TEA_COFFEE_ETC" id="TEA_COFFEE_ETC" />TEA, COFFEE, ETC.</h2> + +<p>For these a cardinal rule has already been given in +Part I., but can not be enforced too often; viz., the necessity +of fresh water boiled, and used as soon as it boils, +that the gases which give it character and sparkle may +not have had time to escape. Tea and coffee both should +be kept from the air, but the former even more carefully +<a name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></a>than the latter, as the delicate flavor evaporates more +quickly.</p> + + +<p>TEA.</p> + +<p>To begin with, never use a tin teapot if an earthen +one is obtainable. An even teaspoonful of dry tea is +the usual allowance for a person. Scald the teapot with +a little <i>boiling water</i>, and pour it off. Put in the tea, +and pour on not over a cup of boiling water, letting it +stand a minute or two for the leaves to swell. Then fill +with the needed amount of <i>water still boiling</i>, this being +about a small cupful to a person. Cover closely, and let it +stand five minutes. Ten will be required for English +breakfast tea, but <i>never boil</i> either, above all in a tin pot. +Boiling liberates the tannic acid of the tea, which acts +upon the tin, making a compound bitter and metallic in +taste, and unfit for human stomachs.</p> + + +<p>COFFEE.</p> + +<p>The best coffee is made from a mixture of two-thirds +Java and one-third Mocha; the Java giving strength, +and the Mocha flavor and aroma. The roasting must be +very perfectly done. If done at home, constant stirring +is necessary to prevent burning; but all good grocers +use now rotary roasters, which brown each grain perfectly. +Buy in small quantities <i>unground</i>; keep closely +covered; and if the highest flavor is wanted, heat hot before +grinding.</p> + +<p>A noted German chemist claims to have discovered an +effectual antidote to the harmful effects of coffee,—an +antidote for which he had searched for years. In his experiments +he discovered that the fibre of cotton, in its natural +<a name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></a>state before bleaching, neutralizes the harmful principle of +the caffein. To make absolutely harmless coffee which yet +has no loss of flavor, it is to be boiled in a bag of unbleached +cheese-cloth or something equally porous. In the coffee-pot +of his invention, the rounds of cotton are slipped +between two cylinders of tin, and the boiling water is +poured through once or twice, on the same principle as +French filtered coffee. The cloths must be rinsed in hot +and then cold water daily and carefully dried; and none +are to be used longer than one week, as at the end of that +time, even with careful washing, the fibre is saturated +with the harmful principle. The same proportions of +coffee as those given below are used, and the pot must +stand in a hot place while the water filters through.</p> + +<p>For a quart of coffee allow four heaping tablespoonfuls +of coffee when ground. Scald the coffee-pot; mix the +ground coffee with a little cold water and two or three +egg-shells, which can be dried and kept for this purpose. +Part of a fresh egg with the shell is still better. Put into +the hot coffee-pot, and pour on one quart of <i>boiling water</i>. +Cover tightly, and boil five minutes; then pour out a cupful +to free the spout from grounds, and return this to the +pot. Let it stand a few minutes to settle, and serve with +boiled milk, and cream if it is to be had. Never for +appearance's sake decant coffee. Much of the flavor is +lost by turning from one pot into another, and the shapes +are now sufficiently pretty to make the block tin ones not +at all unpresentable at table.</p> + +<p>Where coffee is required for a large company, allow a +pound and a half to a gallon of water.</p> + +<p>Coffee made in a French filter or biggin is considered +better by many; but I have preferred to give a rule that +<a name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></a>may be used with certainty where French cooking utensils +are unknown.</p> + + +<p>COCOA, BROMA, AND SHELLS.</p> + +<p>The directions found on packages of these articles are +always reliable. The <i>cocoa</i> or <i>broma</i> should be mixed +smoothly with a little boiling water, and added to that in +the saucepan; one quart of either requiring a pint each +of milk and water, about three tablespoonfuls of cocoa, and +a small cup of sugar. A pinch of salt is always a great +improvement. Boil for half an hour.</p> + +<p>SHELLS are merely the husk of the cocoa-nut; and a +cupful to a quart of boiling water is the amount needed. +Boil steadily an hour, and use with milk and sugar.</p> + + +<p>CHOCOLATE.</p> + +<p>This rule, though unlike that given in cook-books generally, +makes a drink in consistency and flavor like that +offered at Maillard's or Mendee's, the largest chocolate +manufacturers in the country.</p> + +<p>Scrape or grate fine two squares (two ounces) of Baker's +or any unsweetened chocolate. Add to this one small cup +of sugar and a pinch of salt, and put into a saucepan with +a tablespoonful of water. Stir for a few minutes till +smooth and glossy, and then pour in gradually one pint +of milk and one of boiling water. Let all boil a minute. +Dissolve one heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch or arrow-root +in a little cold water, and add to the chocolate. Boil +one minute, and serve. If cream can be had, whip to a +stiff froth, allowing two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a +few drops of vanilla essence to a cup of cream. Serve +a spoonful laid on the top of the chocolate in each cup.<a name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></a> +The corn-starch may be omitted, but is necessary to the +perfection of this rule, the following of which renders +the chocolate not only smooth, but entirely free from +any oily particles. Flavor is lost by any longer boiling, +though usually half an hour has been considered +necessary.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="VEGETABLES" id="VEGETABLES" />VEGETABLES.</h2> + + +<p>POTATOES.</p> + +<p>To be able to boil a potato perfectly is one of the +tests of a good cook, there being nothing in the whole +range of vegetables which is apparently so difficult to +accomplish. Like the making of good bread, nothing is +simpler when once learned. A good boiled potato should +be white, mealy, and served very hot. If the potatoes +are old, peel thinly with a sharp knife; cut out all spots, +and let them lie in cold water some hours before using. +It is more economical to boil before peeling, as the best +part of the potato lies next the skin; but most prefer them +peeled. Put on in boiling water, allowing a teaspoonful +of salt to every quart of water. Medium-sized potatoes +will boil in half an hour. Let them be as nearly of a size +as possible, and if small and large are cooked at the same +time, put on the large ones ten or fifteen minutes before +the small. When done, pour off every drop of water; +cover with a clean towel, and set on the back of the range +to dry for a few minutes before serving. The poorest +potato can be made tolerable by this treatment. Never +let them wait for other things, but time the preparation of +dinner so that they will be ready at the moment needed.<a name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></a> +New potatoes require no peeling, but should merely be +well washed and rubbed.</p> + + +<p>MASHED POTATOES.</p> + +<p>Boil as directed, and when dry and mealy, mash fine +with a potato-masher or large spoon, allowing for a dozen +medium-sized potatoes a piece of butter the size of an +egg, half a cup of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a +teaspoonful of white pepper. The milk may be omitted +if the potato is preferred dry. Pile lightly in a dish, or +smooth over, and serve at once. Never brown in the +oven, as it destroys the good flavor.</p> + + +<p>POTATO SNOW.</p> + +<p>Mash as above, and rub through a colander into a very +hot dish, being careful not to press it down in any way, +and serve hot as possible.</p> + + +<p>BAKED POTATOES.</p> + +<p>Wash and scrub carefully, as some persons eat the +skin. A large potato requires an hour to bake. Their +excellence depends upon being eaten the moment they are +done.</p> + + +<p>POTATOES WITH BEEF.</p> + +<p>Pare, and lay in cold water at least an hour. An hour +before a roast of beef is done, lay in the pan, and baste +them when the beef is basted. They are very nice.</p> + +<p>POTATO CROQUETTES.</p> + +<p>Cold mashed potatoes may be used, but fresh is better. +To half a dozen potatoes, mashed as in directions given, +<a name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></a>allow quarter of a saltspoonful each of mace or nutmeg +and cayenne pepper, and one beaten egg. Make in little +balls or rolls; egg and crumb, and fry in boiling lard. +Drain on brown paper, and serve like chicken croquettes.</p> + + +<p>SWEET POTATOES.</p> + +<p>Wash carefully, and boil without peeling from three-quarters +of an hour to an hour. Peel, and dry in the oven +ten minutes. They are better baked, requiring about an +hour for medium-sized ones.</p> + + +<p>BEETS.</p> + +<p>Winter beets should be soaked over-night. Wash them +carefully; but never peel or even prick them, as color and +sweetness would be lost. Put in boiling, salted water. +Young beets will cook in two hours; old ones require +five or six. Peel, and if large, cut in slices, putting a +little butter on each one. They can be served cold in a +little vinegar.</p> + + +<p>PARSNIPS.</p> + +<p>Wash, and scrape clean; cut lengthwise in halves, and +boil an hour, or two if very old. Serve whole with a +little drawn butter, or mash fine, season well, allowing to +half a dozen large parsnips a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful +of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter.</p> + + +<p>PARSNIP FRITTERS.</p> + +<p>Three large parsnips boiled and mashed fine, adding +two well-beaten eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful +of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of milk, and one +heaping one of flour. Drop in spoonfuls, and fry brown in +a little hot butter. <i>Oyster-plant</i> fritters are made in the +same way.<a name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></a></p> + + +<p>OYSTER-PLANT STEWED.</p> + +<p>Scrape, and throw at once into cold water with a little +vinegar in it, to keep them from turning black. Cut in +small pieces, or boil whole for an hour. Mash fine, and +make like parsnip fritters; or drain the pieces dry, and +serve with drawn butter.</p> + + +<p>CARROTS.</p> + +<p>Carrots are most savory boiled with corned beef for two +hours. They may also be boiled plain, cut in slices, and +served with drawn butter. For old carrots not less than +two hours will be necessary. Plenty of water must be +used, and when cold the carrots are to be cut in dice. +Melt in a saucepan a spoonful of butter; add half a teaspoonful +of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful +of sugar, and when the butter boils put in the carrots, +and stir till heated through. Pile them in the centre of a +platter, and put around them a can of French peas, which +have been cooked in only a spoonful of water, with a teaspoonful +of sugar, a spoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful +of salt, and a dash of pepper. This is a pretty and +excellent dish, and substantial as meat. A cup of stock +can be added to the carrots if desired, but they are better +without it.</p> + + +<p>TURNIPS.</p> + +<p>Pare and cut in quarters. Boil in well-salted water for +an hour, or until tender. Drain off the water, and let +them stand a few minutes to dry; then mash fine, allowing +for about a quart a teaspoonful of salt, half a one of +pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut.</p> + +<p>Or they may be left in pieces, and served with drawn +butter.<a name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></a></p> + + +<p>CABBAGE.</p> + +<p>Wash, and look over very carefully, and lay in cold +water an hour. Cut in quarters, and boil with corned beef +an hour, or till tender, or with a small piece of salt pork. +Drain, and serve whole as possible. A much nicer way is +to boil in well-salted water, changing it once after the first +half-hour. Boil an hour; take up and drain; chop fine, +and add a teacupful of milk, a piece of butter the size of +an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper. +Serve very hot. For cabbage Virginia fashion, and the +best of fashions, too, bake this last form in a buttered +pudding-dish, having first stirred in two or three well-beaten +eggs, and covered the top with bread-crumbs. +Bake till brown.</p> + + +<p>CAULIFLOWER.</p> + +<p>Wash and trim, and boil in a bag made of mosquito-netting +to keep it whole. Boil steadily in well-salted water +for one hour. Dish carefully, and pour over it a nice +drawn butter. Any cold remains may be used as salad, +or chopped and baked, as in rule for baked cabbage.</p> + + +<p>ONIONS.</p> + +<p>If milk is plenty, use equal quantities of skim-milk and +water, allowing a quart of each for a dozen or so large +onions. If water alone is used, change it after the first +half-hour, as this prevents their turning dark; salting as +for all vegetables, and boiling young onions one hour; +old ones, two. Either chop fine, and add a spoonful of +butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper, or +serve them whole in a dressing made by heating one cup +<a name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></a>of milk with the same butter and other seasoning as when +chopped. Put the onions in a hot dish, pour this over +them, and serve. They may also be half boiled; then put +in a buttered dish, covered with this sauce and a layer of +bread-crumbs, and baked for an hour.</p> + + +<p>WINTER SQUASH.</p> + +<p>Cut in two, and take out the seeds and fiber. Half will +probably be enough to cook at once. Cut this in pieces; +pare off the rind, and lay each piece in a steamer. Never +boil in water if it can be avoided, as it must be as dry as +possible. Steam for two hours. Mash fine, or run +through a vegetable sifter, and, for a quart or so of squash, +allow a piece of butter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful +of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Serve very hot.</p> + + +<p>SUMMER SQUASH, OR CIMLINS.</p> + +<p>Steam as directed above, taking out the seeds, but not +peeling them. Mash through a colander; season, and +serve hot. If very young, the seeds are often cooked in +them. Half an hour will be sufficient.</p> + + +<p>PEASE.</p> + +<p>Shell, and put over in boiling, salted water, to which a +teaspoonful of sugar has been added. Boil till tender, +half an hour or a little more. Drain off the water; add a +piece of butter the size of an egg, and a saltspoonful of +salt. If the pease are old, put a bit of soda the size of a +pea in the water.</p> + + +<p>FIELD PEASE.</p> + +<p>These are generally used after drying. Soak over-night, +and boil two hours, or till tender, with or without a small +<a name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></a>piece of bacon. If without, butter as for green pease. +Or they can be mashed fine, rubbed through a sieve, and +then seasoned, adding a pinch of cayenne pepper.</p> + +<p>In Virginia they are often boiled, mashed a little, and +fried in a large cake.</p> + + +<p>SUCCOTASH.</p> + +<p>Boil green corn and beans separately. Cut the corn +from the cob, and season both as in either alone. A +nicer way, however, is to score the rows in half a dozen +ears of corn; scrape off the corn; add a pint of lima or +any nice green bean, and boil one hour in a quart of +boiling water, with one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, +and a saltspoonful of pepper. Let the water boil away +to about a cupful; add a spoonful of butter, and serve +in a hot dish. Many, instead of butter, use with it a +small piece of pork,—about quarter of a pound; but it +is better without. A spoonful of cream may be added. +Canned corn and beans may be used; and even dried +beans and coarse hominy—the former well soaked, and +both boiled together three hours—are very good.</p> + + +<p>STRING BEANS.</p> + +<p>String, cut in bits, and boil an hour if very young. If +old, an hour and an half, or even two, may be needed. +Drain off the water, and season like green pease.</p> + + +<p>SHELLED BEANS.</p> + +<p>Any green bean may be used in this way, lima and +butter beans being the nicest. Put on in boiling, salted +water, and boil not less than one hour. Season like +string beans.<a name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></a></p> + + +<p>GREEN CORN.</p> + +<p>Husk, and pick off all the silk. Boil in well-salted +water, and serve on the cob, wrapped in a napkin, or cut +off and seasoned like beans. Cutting down through each +row gives, when scraped off, the kernel without the hull.</p> + + +<p>GREEN-CORN FRITTERS.</p> + +<p>One pint of green corn grated. This will require about +six ears. Mix with this, half a cup of milk, two well-beaten +eggs, half a cup of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, +half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of +melted butter. Fry in very small cakes in a little hot +butter, browning well on both sides. Serve very hot.</p> + + +<p>CORN PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One pint of cut or grated corn, one pint of milk, two +well-beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful +of pepper. Butter a pudding-dish, and bake +the mixture half an hour. Canned corn can be used in +the same way.</p> + + +<p>EGG-PLANT.</p> + +<p>Peel, cut in slices half an inch thick, and lay them in +well-salted water for an hour. Wipe dry; dip in flour or +meal, and fry brown on each side. Fifteen minutes will +be needed to cook sufficiently. The slices can be egged +and crumbed before frying, and are nicer than when +merely floured.</p> + + +<p>EGG-PLANT FRITTERS.</p> + +<p>Peel the egg-plant, and take out the seeds. Boil for an +hour in well-salted water. Drain as dry as possible; +mash fine, and prepare precisely like corn fritters.<a name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></a></p> + + +<p>BAKED EGG-PLANT.</p> + +<p>Peel, and cut out a piece from the top; remove the +seeds, and fill the space with a dressing like that for +ducks, fitting in the piece cut out. Bake an hour, basting +with a spoonful of butter melted in a cup of water, and +dredging with flour between each basting. It is very nice.</p> + + +<p>ASPARAGUS.</p> + +<p>Wash, and cut off almost all of the white end. Tie up +in small bundles; put into boiling, salted water, and cook +till tender,—about half an hour, or more if old.</p> + +<p>Make some slices of water toast, as in rule given, using +the water in which the asparagus was boiled; lay the +slices on a hot platter, and the asparagus upon them, +pouring a spoonful of melted butter over it. The asparagus +may be cut in little bits, and, when boiled, a drawn +butter poured over it, or served on toast, as when left +whole. Cold asparagus may be cut fine, and used in an +omelet, or simply warmed over.</p> + + +<p>SPINACH.</p> + +<p>Not less than a peck is needed for a dinner for three or +four. Pick over carefully, wash, and let it lie in cold +water an hour or two. Put on in boiling, salted water, +and boil an hour, or until tender. Take up in a colander, +that it may drain perfectly. Have in a hot dish a piece of +butter the size of an egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, a +saltspoonful of pepper, and, if liked, a tablespoonful of +vinegar. Chop the spinach fine, and put in the dish, stirring +in this dressing thoroughly. A teacupful of cream is +often added. Any tender greens, beet or turnip tops, +kale, &c., are treated in this way; kale, however, requiring +two hours' boiling.<a name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></a></p> + + +<p>ARTICHOKES.</p> + +<p>Cut off the outside leaves; trim the bottom; throw into +boiling, salted water, with a teaspoonful of vinegar in it, +and boil an hour. Season, and serve like turnips, or with +drawn butter poured over them.</p> + + +<p>TOMATOES STEWED.</p> + +<p>Pour on boiling water to take off the skins; cut in +pieces, and stew slowly for half an hour; adding for a +dozen tomatoes a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful +of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful of +sugar. Where they are preferred sweet, two tablespoonfuls +of sugar will be necessary. They may be thickened +with a tablespoonful of flour or corn-starch dissolved in a +little cold water, or with half a cup of rolled cracker or +bread crumbs. Canned tomatoes are stewed in the same +way.</p> + + +<p>BAKED TOMATOES.</p> + +<p>Take off the skins; lay the tomatoes in a buttered +pudding-dish; put a bit of butter on each one. Mix a +teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper, with a +cup of bread or cracker crumbs, and cover the top. Bake +an hour.</p> + +<p>Or cut the tomatoes in bits, and put a layer of them +and one of seasoned crumbs, ending with crumbs. Dot +the top with bits of butter, that it may brown well, and +bake in the same way. Canned tomatoes are almost +equally good. Thin slices of well-buttered bread may be +used instead of crumbs.</p> + + +<p>FRIED TOMATOES.</p> + +<p>Cut in thick slices. Mix in a plate half a teacupful of +<a name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></a>flour, a saltspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper; +and dip each slice in this, frying brown in hot butter.</p> + + +<p>BROILED TOMATOES.</p> + +<p>Prepare as for frying, and broil in a wire broiler, putting +a bit of butter on each slice when brown, and serving on +a hot dish or on buttered toast.</p> + + +<p>RICE.</p> + +<p>Wash in cold water, changing it at least twice. It is +better if allowed to soak an hour. Drain, and throw into +a good deal of boiling, salted water, allowing not less than +two quarts to a cupful of rice. Boil twenty minutes, stirring +now and then. Pour into a colander, that every drop +of water may drain off, and then set it at the back of the +stove to dry for ten minutes. In this way every grain is +distinct, yet perfectly tender. If old, half an hour's +boiling may be required. Test by biting a grain at the +end of twenty minutes. If tender, it is done.</p> + + +<p>RICE CROQUETTES.</p> + +<p>Where used as a vegetable with dinner, to a pint of +cold boiled rice allow a tablespoonful of melted butter +and one or two well-beaten eggs. Mix thoroughly. A +pinch of cayenne or a little chopped parsley may be added. +Make in the shape of corks; egg and crumb, and fry a +golden brown.</p> + + +<p>MACARONI.</p> + +<p>Never wash macaroni if it can be avoided. Break in +lengths of three or four inches and throw into boiling, +salted water, allowing quarter of a pound for a dinner for +three or four. Boil for half an hour, and drain off the +<a name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></a>water. It may be served plain with tomato sauce, or +simply buttered, or with drawn butter poured over it.</p> + + +<p>MACARONI WITH CHEESE.</p> + +<p>Boil as directed. Make a pint of white sauce or <i>roux</i>, +as on p. 169, using milk if it can be had, though water +answers. Have a cupful of good grated cheese. Butter +a pudding-dish. Put in a layer of macaroni, one of +sauce, and one of cheese, ending with cheese. Dust the +top with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, dot with bits of +butter, and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven. It can +be baked in the same way without cheese, or with simply +a cup of milk and two eggs added, making a sort of pudding.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="BREAD_AND_BREAKFAST_CAKES" id="BREAD_AND_BREAKFAST_CAKES" />BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES.</h2> + +<p>BREAD-MAKING AND FLOUR.</p> + + +<p>Much of the health, and consequently much of the +happiness, of the family depends upon good bread: therefore +no pains should be spared in learning the best method +of making, which will prove easiest in the end.</p> + +<p>Yeast, flour, kneading, and baking must each be perfect, +and nothing in the whole range of cooking is of such +prime importance.</p> + +<p>Once master the problem of yeast, and the first form of +wheat bread, and endless varieties of both bread and +breakfast cakes can be made.</p> + +<p>The old and the new process flour—the former being +known as the St. Louis, and the latter as Haxall flour—are<a name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></a> +now to be had at all good grocers; and from either +good bread may be made, though that from the latter +keeps moist longer. Potapsco flour is of the same quality +as the St. Louis. It contains more starch than the St. +Louis, and for this reason requires, even more than that, +the use in the family of coarser or graham flour at the +same time; white bread alone not being as nutritious or +strengthening, for reasons given in Part I. Graham flour +is fast being superseded by a much better form, prepared +principally by the Health Food Company in New York, +in which the entire grain, save the husk, is ground as fine +as the ordinary flour, thus doing away with the coarseness +that many have objected to in graham bread.</p> + +<p>Flour made by the new process swells more than that +by the old, and a little less quantity—about an eighth +less—is therefore required in mixing and kneading. As +definite rules as possible are given for the whole operation; +but experience alone can insure perfect bread, changes of +temperature affecting it at once, and baking being also a +critical point.</p> + +<p>Pans made of thick tin, or, better still, of Russia iron, +ten inches long, four or five wide, and four deep, make +the best-shaped loaf, and one requiring a reasonably short +time to bake.</p> + + +<p>YEAST.</p> + +<p>Ingredients: One teacupful of lightly broken hops; one +pint of sifted flour; one cupful of sugar; one tablespoonful +of salt; four large or six medium-sized potatoes; and +two quarts of boiling water.</p> + +<p>Boil the potatoes, and mash them fine. At the same +time, having tied the hops in a little bag, boil them for +half an hour in the two quarts of water, but in another +<a name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></a>saucepan. Mix the flour, sugar, and salt well together in +a large mixing-bowl, and pour on the boiling hop-water, +stirring constantly. Now add enough of this to the mashed +potato to thin it till it can be poured, and mix all together, +straining it through a sieve to avoid any possible lumps. +Add to this, when cool, either a cupful of yeast left from +the last, or of baker's yeast, or a Twin Brothers' yeast +cake dissolved in a little warm water. Let it stand till +partly light, and then stir down two or three times in the +course of five or six hours, as this makes it stronger. At +the end of that time it will be light. Keep in a covered +stone jar, or in glass cans. By stirring in corn-meal till a +dough is made, and then forming it in small cakes and +drying in the sun, <i>dry yeast</i> is made, which keeps better +than the liquid in hot weather. Crumb, and soak in warm +water half an hour before using.</p> + +<p><i>Potato yeast</i> is made by omitting hops and flour, but +mashing the potatoes fine with the same proportion of +other ingredients, and adding the old yeast, when cool, as +before. It is very nice, but must be made fresh every +week; while the other, kept in a cool place, will be good +a month.</p> + + +<p>BREAD.</p> + +<p>For four loaves of bread of the pan-size given above, +allow as follows: Four quarts of flour; one large cup of +yeast; one tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, and one of +butter or lard; one pint of milk mixed with one of warm +water, or one quart of water alone for the "wetting."</p> + +<p>Sift the flour into a large pan or bowl. Put the sugar, +salt, and butter in the bottom of the bread pan or bowl, +and pour on a spoonful or two of boiling water, enough to +dissolve all. Add the quart of wetting, and the yeast.<a name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></a> +Now stir in slowly two quarts of the flour; cover with a +cloth, and set in a temperature of about 75° to rise until +morning. Bread mixed at nine in the evening will be +ready to mould into loaves or rolls by six the next morning. +In summer it would be necessary to find a cool +place; in winter a warm one,—the chief point being to +keep the temperature <i>even</i>. If mixed early in the morning, +it is ready to mold and bake in the afternoon, from seven +to eight hours being all it should stand.</p> + +<p>This first mixture is called a <i>sponge</i>; and, if only a loaf +of graham or rye bread is wanted, one quart of it can be +measured, and thickened with other flour as in the rules +given hereafter.</p> + +<p>To finish as <i>wheat bread</i>, stir in enough flour from the +two quarts remaining to make a dough. Flour the molding-board +very thickly, and turn out. Now begin kneading, +flouring the hands, but after the dough is gathered +into a smooth lump, using as little flour as may be. Knead +with the palm of the hand as much as possible. The +dough quickly becomes a flat cake. Fold it over, and keep +on, kneading not less than twenty minutes; half an hour +being better.</p> + +<p>Make into loaves; put into the pans; set them in a +warm place, and let them rise from thirty to forty-five +minutes, or till they have become nearly double in size. +Bake in an oven hot enough to brown a teaspoonful of +flour in one minute; spreading the flour on a bit of broken +plate, that it may have an even heat. Loaves of this size +will bake in from forty-five to sixty minutes. Then take +them from the pans; wrap in thick cloths kept for the +purpose and stand them, tilted up against the pans till +cold. Never lay hot bread on a pine table, as it will sweat, +<a name="Page_212" id="Page_212"></a>and absorb the pitchy odor and taste; but tilt, so that air +may pass around it freely. Keep well covered in a tin +box or large stone pot, which should be wiped out every +day or two, and scalded and dried thoroughly now and +then. Pans for wheat bread should be greased very lightly; +for graham or rye, much more, as the dough sticks +and clings.</p> + +<p>Instead of mixing a sponge, all the flour may be molded +in and kneaded at once, and the dough set to rise in the +same way. When light, turn out. Use as little flour as +possible, and knead for fifteen minutes; less time being +required, as part of the kneading has already been done.</p> + + +<p>GRAHAM BREAD.</p> + +<p>One quart of wheat sponge; one even quart of graham +flour; half a teacupful of brown sugar or molasses; half +a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water; and +half a teaspoonful of salt.</p> + +<p>Pour the sponge in a deep bowl; stir in the molasses, +&c, and lastly the flour, which must never be sifted. +The mixture should be so stiff, that the spoon moves +with difficulty. Bake in two loaves for an hour or an +hour and a quarter, graham requiring longer baking than +wheat.</p> + +<p>If no sponge can be spared, make as follows: One pint +of milk or water; half a cup of sugar or molasses; half +a cup of yeast; one teaspoonful of salt; one cup of +wheat flour; two cups of graham. Warm the milk or +water; add the yeast and other ingredients, and then the +flour; and set in a cool place—about 60° Fahrenheit—over-night, +graham bread souring more easily than wheat. +Early in the morning stir well; put into two deep, well-<a name="Page_213" id="Page_213"></a>greased +pans; let it rise an hour in a warm place, and +bake one hour.</p> + + +<p>GRAHAM MUFFINS.</p> + +<p>These are made by the same rule as the bread. Fill +the muffin-pans two-thirds full; let them rise till even +with the top of the pans, which will take about an hour; +and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. To make +them a little nicer, a large spoonful of melted butter may +be added, and two beaten eggs. This will require longer +to rise, as butter clogs the air-cells, and makes the working +of the yeast slower. The quantities given for bread +will make two dozen muffins.</p> + + +<p>RYE BREAD.</p> + +<p>This bread is made by nearly the same rule as the +graham, either using wheat sponge, or setting one over-night, +but is kneaded slightly. Follow the rule just given, +substituting rye for graham, but use enough rye to make +a dough which can be turned out. It will take a quart. +Use wheat flour for the molding-board and hands, as rye +is very sticky; and knead only long enough to get into +good shape. Raise, and bake as in rule for graham +bread.</p> + + +<p>RYE MUFFINS.</p> + +<p>Make by above rule, but use only one pint of rye flour, +adding two eggs and a spoonful of melted butter, and +baking in the same way. A set of earthen cups are excellent +for both these and graham muffins, as the heat in +baking is more even. They are used also for pop-overs, +Sunderland puddings, and some small cakes.<a name="Page_214" id="Page_214"></a></p> + + +<p>BROWN BREAD.</p> + +<p>Sift together into a deep bowl one even cup of Indian +meal, two heaping cups of rye flour, one even teaspoonful +of salt, and one of soda. To one pint of hot water +add one cup of molasses, and stir till well mixed. Make +a hole in the middle of the meal, and stir in the molasses +and water, beating all till smooth. Butter a tin pudding-boiler, +or a three-pint tin pail, and put in the mixture, +setting the boiler into a kettle or saucepan of boiling +water. Boil steadily for four hours, keeping the water +always at the same level. At the end of that time, take +out the boiler, and set in the oven for fifteen minutes to +dry and form a crust. Turn out, and serve hot.</p> + +<p>Milk may be used instead of water, or the same mixture +raised over-night with half a cup of yeast, and then +steamed.</p> + + +<p>PLAIN ROLLS.</p> + +<p>A pint-bowlful of bread dough will make twelve small +rolls. Increase amount of dough if more are desired. +Flour the molding-board lightly, and work into the dough +a piece of butter or lard the size of an egg. Knead not +less than fifteen minutes, and cut into round cakes, which +may be flattened and folded over, if folded or pocket rolls +are wanted. In this case put a bit of butter or lard the +size of a pea between the folds. For a cleft or French +roll make the dough into small round balls, and press a +knife-handle almost through the center of each. Put +them about an inch apart in well-buttered pans, and let +them rise an hour and a half before baking. They require +more time to rise than large loaves, as, being small, +heat penetrates them almost at once, and thus there is +very little rising in the oven.</p> + +<p>Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes.<a name="Page_215" id="Page_215"></a></p> + + +<p>PARKER-HOUSE ROLLS.</p> + +<p>Two quarts of flour; one pint of milk; butter the size +of an egg; one tablespoonful of sugar; one teacupful of +good yeast; one teaspoonful of salt.</p> + +<p>Boil the milk, and add the butter, salt, and sugar. +Sift the flour into a deep bowl, and, when the milk is +merely blood-warm, stir together with enough of the flour +to form a batter or sponge. Do this at nine or ten in the +evening, and set in a cool place, from 50° to 60°. Next +morning about nine mix in the remainder of the flour; turn +on to the molding-board; and knead for twenty minutes, +using as little flour as possible. Return to the bowl, and set +in cool place again till about four in the afternoon. Knead +again for fifteen minutes; roll out, and cut into rounds, +treating them as in plain rolls. Let them rise one hour, +and bake twenty minutes. One kneading makes a good +breakfast roll; but, to secure the peculiar delicacy of a +"Parker-House," two are essential, and they are generally +baked as a folded or pocket roll. If baked round, make +the dough into a long roll on the board; cut off small +pieces, and make into round balls with the hand, setting +them well apart in the pan.</p> + + +<p>SODA AND CREAM OF TARTAR BISCUIT.</p> + +<p>One quart of flour; one even teaspoonful of salt; one +teaspoonful of soda, and two of cream of tartar; a piece +of lard or butter the size of an egg; and a large cup of +milk or water.</p> + +<p>Mix the soda, cream of tartar, and salt with the flour, +having first mashed them fine, and sift all together twice. +Rub the shortening in with the hands till perfectly fine. +Add the milk; mix and roll out as quickly as possible; +<a name="Page_216" id="Page_216"></a>cut in rounds, and bake in a quick oven. If properly +made, they are light as puffs; but their success depends +upon thorough and rapid mixing and baking.</p> + + +<p>BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT.</p> + +<p>Make as above, using two heaping teaspoonfuls of +baking powder, instead of the soda and cream of tartar.</p> + + +<p>BEATEN BISCUIT.</p> + +<p>Three pints of sifted flour; one cup of lard; one teaspoonful +of salt. Rub the lard and flour well together, +and make into a very stiff dough with about a cup of milk +or water: a little more may be necessary. Beat the dough +with a rolling-pin for half an hour, or run through the +little machine that comes for the purpose. Make into +small biscuit, prick several times, and bake till brown.</p> + + +<p>WAFERS.</p> + +<p>One pint of sifted flour; a piece of butter the size of a +walnut; half a teaspoonful of salt.</p> + +<p>Rub butter and flour together, and make into dough +with half a cup of warm milk. Beat half an hour with +the rolling-pin. Then take a bit of it no larger than a +nut, and roll to the size of a saucer. They can not be too +thin. Flour the pans lightly, and bake in a quick oven +from five to ten minutes.</p> + + +<p>WAFFLES.</p> + +<p>One pint of flour; one teaspoonful of baking powder; +half a teaspoonful of salt; three eggs; butter the size of +an egg; and one and a quarter cups of milk.</p> + +<p>Sift salt and baking powder with the flour; rub in the +<a name="Page_217" id="Page_217"></a>butter. Mix and add the beaten yolks and milk, and last +stir in the whites which have been beaten to a stiff froth. +Bake at once in well-greased waffle-irons. By using two +cups of milk, the mixture is right for pancakes. If sour +milk is used, substitute soda for the baking powder. Sour +cream makes delicious waffles.</p> + + +<p>RICE OR HOMINY WAFFLES.</p> + +<p>One pint of warm boiled rice or hominy; one cup of +sweet or sour milk; butter the size of a walnut; three +eggs; one teaspoonful of salt and one of soda sifted with +one pint of flour.</p> + +<p>Stir rice and milk together; add the beaten yolks; then +the flour, and last the whites beaten stiff. By adding a +small cup more of milk, rice pancakes can be made. +Boiled oatmeal or wheaten grits may be substituted for +the rice.</p> + + +<p>BREAKFAST PUFFS OR POP-OVERS.</p> + +<p>One pint of flour, one pint of milk, and one egg. Stir +the milk into the flour; beat the egg very light, and add it, +stirring it well in. Meantime have a set of gem-pans +well buttered, heating in the oven. Put in the dough (the +material is enough for a dozen puffs), and bake for half an +hour in a <i>very hot oven</i>. This is one of the simplest but +most delicate breakfast cakes made. Ignorant cooks generally +spoil several batches by persisting in putting in +baking powder or soda, as they can not believe that the +puffs will rise without.</p> + + +<p>SHORT-CAKE.</p> + +<p>One quart of flour; one teaspoonful of salt and two of +baking powder sifted with the flour; one cup of butter, or +<a name="Page_218" id="Page_218"></a>half lard and half butter; one large cup of hot milk. Rub +the butter into the flour. Add the milk, and roll out the +dough, cutting in small square cakes and baking to a light +brown.</p> + +<p>For a strawberry or peach short-cake have three tin +pie-plates buttered; roll the dough to fit them, and bake +quickly. Fill either, when done, with a quart of strawberries +or raspberries mashed with a cup of sugar, or +with peaches cut fine and sugared, and served hot.</p> + + +<p>CORN BREAD.</p> + +<p>Two cups of corn meal; one cup of flour; one teaspoonful +of soda and one of salt; one heaping tablespoonful +of butter; a teacup full of sugar; three eggs; two cups of +sour milk, the more creamy the better. If sweet milk is +used, substitute baking powder for soda.</p> + +<p>Sift meal, flour, soda, and salt together; beat the yolks +of the eggs with the sugar; add the milk, and stir into the +meal; melt the butter, and stir in, beating hard for five +minutes. Beat the whites stiff, and stir in, and bake at +once either in one large, round loaf, or in tin pie-plates. +The loaf will need half an hour or a little more; the pie-plates, +not over twenty minutes.</p> + +<p>This can be baked as muffins, or, by adding another cup +of milk, becomes a pancake mixture.</p> + + +<p>HOE-CAKE.</p> + +<p>One quart of corn meal; one teaspoon full of salt; one +tablespoonful of melted lard; one large cup of boiling +water. Melt the lard in the water. Mix the salt with the +meal, and pour on the water, stirring it into a dough. +When cool, make either into one large oval cake or two +<a name="Page_219" id="Page_219"></a>smaller ones, and bake in the oven to a bright brown, +which will take about half an hour; or make in small +cakes, and bake slowly on a griddle, browning well on +each side. Genuine hoe-cake is baked before an open fire +on a board.</p> + + +<p>BUCKWHEAT CAKES.</p> + +<p>Two cups of buckwheat flour; one of wheat flour; one +of corn meal; half a cup of yeast; one teaspoonful of +salt; one quart of boiling water. Mix the corn meal and +salt, and pour on the boiling water very slowly, that the +meal may swell. As soon as merely warm, stir in the +sifted flour and yeast. All buckwheat may be used, instead +of part wheat flour. Beat well, cover, and put in a +cool place,—about 60°. In the morning stir well, and +add half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm +water. Grease the griddle with a bit of salt pork on a +fork, or a <i>very little</i> drippings rubbed over it evenly, but +never have it floating with fat, as many cooks do. Drop +in large spoonfuls, and bake and serve <i>few at a time</i>, or +they will become heavy and unfit to eat. If a cupful of +the batter is saved, no yeast need be used for the next +baking, and in cold weather this can be done for a month.</p> + + +<p>HUCKLEBERRY CAKE.</p> + +<p>One quart of flour; one teaspoonful of salt and two of +baking powder sifted with the flour; one pint of huckleberries; +half a cup of butter; two eggs; two cups of +sweet milk; two cups of sugar.</p> + +<p>Cream the butter, and add the sugar and yolks of eggs; +stir in the milk, and add the flour slowly; then beating +the whites of the eggs stiff, and adding them. Have the +huckleberries picked over, washed, dried, and well dusted +<a name="Page_220" id="Page_220"></a>with flour. Stir them in last of all; fill the pans three-quarters +full, and bake in a moderate oven for about half +an hour.</p> + + +<p>APPLE CAKE.</p> + +<p>Make as above; but, instead of huckleberries, use one +pint of sour, tender apples, cut in thin slices. It is a delicious +breakfast or tea cake.</p> + + +<p>BROWN-BREAD BREWIS.</p> + +<p>Dry all bits of crust or bread in the oven, browning +them nicely. To a pint of these, allow one quart of milk, +half a cup of butter, and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil the +milk; add the butter and salt, and then the browned +bread, and simmer slowly for fifteen minutes, or until perfectly +soft. It is very nice. Bits of white bread or sea +biscuit can be used in the same way.</p> + + +<p>CRISPED CRACKERS.</p> + +<p>Split large soft crackers, what is called the "Boston +cracker" being best; butter them well as for eating; lay +the buttered halves in baking-pans, and brown in a quick +oven. Good at any meal.</p> + + +<p>SOUR BREAD.</p> + +<p>If, by any mishap, bread has soured a little, make into +water toast or brewis, adding a teaspoonful of soda to the +water or milk.</p> + + +<p>TO USE DRY BREAD.</p> + +<p>Brown in the oven every scrap that is left, seeing that +it does not scorch. Roll while hot and crisp, and sift, +using the fine crumbs for croquettes, &c., and the coarser +ones for puddings and pancakes. Keep dry in glass jars; +or tin cans will answer.<a name="Page_221" id="Page_221"></a></p> + + +<p>BREAD PANCAKES.</p> + +<p>One cup of coarse crumbs, soaked over-night in a quart +of warm milk, or milk and water. In the morning mash +fine, and run through a sieve. Add three eggs well beaten, +half a cup of flour, a large spoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful +of salt, and, if liked, a little nutmeg. If the bread was +in the least sour, add a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a +little warm water. Bake like pancakes, but more slowly.</p> + + +<p>TO FRESHEN STALE BREAD OR ROLLS.</p> + +<p>Wrap in a cloth, and steam for ten or fifteen minutes in +a steamer. Then dry in the oven. Rolls or biscuits may +have the top crust wet with a little melted butter, and then +brown a minute after steaming.</p> + + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="CAKE" id="CAKE" />CAKE.</h2> + + +<p>CAKE-MAKING.</p> + +<p>In all cake-making, see that every thing is ready to +your hand,—pans buttered, or papered if necessary; +flour sifted; all spices and other materials on your working-table; +and the fire in good order.</p> + +<p>No matter how plain the cake, there is a certain order +in mixing, which, if followed, produces the best result +from the materials used; and this order is easily reduced +to rules.</p> + +<p>First, always cream the butter; that is, stir it till light +and creamy. If very cold, heat the bowl a little, but +never enough to melt, only to soften the butter.<a name="Page_222" id="Page_222"></a> +Second, add the sugar to the butter, and mix thoroughly.</p> + +<p>Third, if eggs are used, beat yolks and whites separately +for a delicate cake; add yolks to sugar and butter, +and beat together a minute. For a plain cake, beat yolks +and whites together (a Dover egg-beater doing this better +than any thing else can), and add to butter and sugar.</p> + +<p>Fourth, if milk is used, add this.</p> + +<p>Fifth, stir in the measure of flour little by little, and +beat smooth.</p> + +<p>Flavoring may be added at any time. If dry spices +are used, mix them with the sugar. Always sift baking +powder with the flour. If soda and cream of tartar are +used, sift the cream of tartar with the flour, and dissolve +the soda in a little milk or warm water. For very delicate +cakes, powdered sugar is best. For gingerbreads and +small cakes or cookies, light brown answers.</p> + +<p>Where fruit cake is to be made, raisins should be stoned +and chopped, and currants washed and dried, the day +beforehand. A cup of currants being a nice and inexpensive +addition to buns or any plain cake, it is well to +prepare several pounds at once, drying thoroughly, and +keeping in glass jars. Being the very dirtiest article +known to the storeroom, currants require at least three +washings in warm water, rubbing them well in the hands. +Then spread them out on a towel, and proceed to pick out +all the sticks, grit, small stones, and legs and wings to be +found; then put the fruit into a slow oven, and dry it +carefully, that none may scorch.</p> + +<p>In baking, a moderate oven is one in which a teaspoonful +of flour will brown while you count thirty; a quick +one, where but twelve can be counted.</p> + +<p>The "cup" used in all these receipts is the ordinary +<a name="Page_223" id="Page_223"></a>kitchen cup, holding half a pint. The measures of flour +are, in all cases, of <i>sifted flour</i>, which can be sifted by the +quantity, and kept in a wooden pail. "Prepared flour" +is especially nice for doughnuts and plain cakes. No +great variety of receipts is given, as every family is sure +to have one enthusiastic cake-maker who gleans from all +sources; and this book aims to give fuller space to substantials +than to sweets. Half the energy spent by many +housekeepers upon cake would insure the perfect bread, +which, nine times out of ten, is not found upon their +tables, and success in which they count an impossibility. +If cake is to be made, however, let it be done in the +most perfect way; seeing only that bread is first irreproachable.</p> + + +<p>SPONGE CAKE.</p> + +<p>One pound of the finest granulated, or of powdered, +sugar; half a pound of sifted flour; ten eggs; grated +rind of two lemons, and the juice of one; and a saltspoonful +of salt.</p> + +<p>Break the eggs, yolks and whites separately, and beat +the yolks to a creamy froth. Beat the whites till they +can be turned upside down without spilling. Put yolks +and whites together, and beat till blended; then add the +sugar slowly; then the lemon rind and juice and the +salt, and last the flour. Whisk together as lightly and +quickly as possible. Turn into either three buttered +bread-pans of the size given on p. 201, or bake in a large +loaf, as preferred. Fill the pans two-thirds full, and, +when in the oven, do not open it for ten minutes. Bake +about half an hour, and test by running a clean broom-straw +into the loaf. If it comes out dry, they are done. +Turn out, and cool on a sieve, or on the pans turned upside +down.<a name="Page_224" id="Page_224"></a></p> + + +<p>ROLLED JELLY CAKE.</p> + +<p>Three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; one +heaped cup of sugar; one scant cup of flour in which a +teaspoonful of baking powder and a pinch of salt have +been sifted; quarter of a cup of boiling water.</p> + +<p>Mix as in sponge cake; add the water last, and bake in +a large roasting-pan, spreading the batter as thinly as possible. +It will bake in ten minutes. When done, and while +still hot, spread with any acid jelly, and roll carefully from +one side. This cake is nice for lining Charlotte-Russe +molds also. For that purpose the water may be omitted, +its only use being to make the cake roll more easily.</p> + + +<p>CUP CAKE.</p> + +<p>One cup of butter; two cups of sugar; four eggs, yolks +and whites beaten separately; one cup of milk; three and +a half cups of flour; a grated nutmeg, or a teaspoonful +of vanilla or lemon; and a heaping teaspoonful of baking +powder.</p> + +<p>Cream the butter; add the sugar, and then the yolks; +then the milk and the whites, and last the flour, in which +the baking powder has been sifted. Bake half an hour, +either in two brick loaves or one large one. It is nice, +also, baked in little tins. Half may be flavored with essence, +and the other half with a teaspoonful of mixed +spice,—half cinnamon, and the rest mace and allspice. +By using a heaping tablespoonful of yellow ginger, this +becomes a delicious sugar gingerbread, or, with mixed +spices and ginger, a spice gingerbread.</p> + +<p>This cake with the variations upon it makes up page +after page in the large cook-books. Use but half a cup +of butter, and you have a plain <i>Cup Cake</i>. Add a cup of +<a name="Page_225" id="Page_225"></a>currants and one of chopped raisins, and it is plain <i>Fruit +Cake</i>, needing to bake one hour. Bake on Washington-pie +tins, and you have the foundation for <i>Cream</i> and <i>Jelly +Cakes</i>. A little experience, and then invention, will show +you how varied are the combinations, and how one page +in your cook-book can do duty for twenty.</p> + + +<p>POUND CAKE.</p> + +<p>One pound of sugar; one pound of flour; three-quarters +of a pound of butter; nine eggs; one teaspoonful of +baking powder, and one of lemon extract; one nutmeg +grated.</p> + +<p>Cream the butter, and add half the flour, sifting the +baking powder with the other half. Beat the yolks to a +creamy foam, and add; and then the sugar, beating hard. +Have the whites a stiff froth, and stir in, adding flavoring +and remainder of flour. Bake in one large loaf for one +hour, letting the oven be moderate. Frost, if liked.</p> + + +<p>FRUIT CAKE.</p> + +<p>One pound of butter; one pound of sugar; one pound +and a quarter of sifted flour; ten eggs; two nutmegs +grated; a tablespoonful each of ground cloves, cinnamon, +and allspice; a teaspoonful of soda; a cup of brandy or +wine, and one of dark molasses; one pound of citron; +two pounds of stoned and chopped raisins, and two of currants +washed and dried.</p> + +<p>Dredge the prepared fruit with enough of the flour to +coat it thoroughly. To have the cake very dark and rich +looking, brown the flour a little, taking great care not to +scorch it. Cream the butter, and add the sugar, in which +the spices have been mixed; then the beaten yolks of +<a name="Page_226" id="Page_226"></a>eggs; then the whites beaten to a stiff froth, and the +flour. Dissolve the soda in a very little warm water, and +add. Now stir in the fruit. Have either one large, round +pan, or two smaller ones. Put at least three thicknesses +of buttered letter-paper on the sides and bottom; turn +in the mixture, and bake for three hours in a moderate +oven. Cover with thick paper if there is the least danger +of scorching. This will keep, if well frosted, for two +years.</p> + + +<p>DOVER CAKE.</p> + +<p>One pound of flour; one pound of sugar; half a pound +of butter; one teacup of milk; six eggs; one teaspoonful +of baking powder; one grated nutmeg.</p> + +<p>Cream the butter; add first sugar, then beaten yolks of +eggs and milk, then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, +and last the flour. Bake forty-five minutes in a large +dripping-pan, sifting fine sugar over the top, and cut in +small squares; or it may be baked in one round loaf, and +frosted on the bottom, or in small tins. Half a pound of +citron cut fine is often added.</p> + + +<p>WHITE OR SILVER CAKE.</p> + +<p>Half a cup of butter; a heaping cupful of powdered +sugar; two cups of flour, with a teaspoonful of baking +powder sifted in; half a cup of milk; whites of six eggs; +one teaspoonful of almond extract.</p> + +<p>Cream the butter, and add the flour, beating till it is a +smooth paste. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add +the sugar and essence. Now mix both quickly, and bake +in a sheet about an inch and a half thick. About half an +hour will be needed. Frost while hot, with one white of +egg, beaten ten minutes with a small cup of sifted pow<a name="Page_227" id="Page_227"></a>dered +sugar, and juice of half a lemon. This frosting +hardens very quickly. Before it is quite hard, divide it +into oblong or square pieces, scoring at intervals with the +back of a large knife. The milk can be omitted if a +richer cake is wanted. It may also be baked in jelly-cake +tins; one small cocoanut grated, and mixed with one cup +of sugar, and spread between, and the whole frosted. Or +beat the white of an egg with one cup of sugar, and the +juice of one large or two small oranges, and spread between. +Either form is delicious.</p> + + +<p>GOLD CAKE.</p> + +<p>One cup of sugar; half a cup of butter; two cups of +flour; yolks of six eggs; grated rind and juice of a +lemon or orange; half a teaspoonful of soda, mixed with +the flour, and sifted twice.</p> + +<p>Cream the butter; add the sugar, then the beaten +yolks and the flour, beating hard for several minutes. +Last, add the lemon or orange juice, and bake like silver +cake; frosting, if liked. If frosting is made for either or +both cakes, the extra yolks may be used in making this +one, eight being still nicer than six.</p> + + +<p>BREAD CAKE.</p> + +<p>Two cups or a pint-bowlful of raised dough ready for +baking; one cup of butter; two cups of sugar; one teaspoonful +of ground cinnamon, or half a nutmeg grated; +three eggs; one teaspoonful of soda in quarter of a cup +of warm water, and half a cup of flour.</p> + +<p>Cream the butter, and add the sugar. Then put in the +bread dough, and work together till well mixed. The +hand is best for this, though it can be done with a wooden +<a name="Page_228" id="Page_228"></a>spoon. Add the eggs, then the flour, and last the soda. +Let it stand in a warm place for one hour, and bake in a +moderate oven forty-five minutes, testing with a broom-straw. +A pound of stoned and chopped raisins is a nice +addition. Omitting them, and adding flour enough to roll +out, makes an excellent raised doughnut or bun. Let it +rise two hours; then cut in shapes, and fry in boiling lard. +Or, for buns, bake in a quick oven, and, a minute before +taking out, brush the top with a spoonful of sugar and +milk mixed together.</p> + + +<p>PLAIN BUNS.</p> + +<p>One pint-bowlful of dough; one cup of sugar; butter +the size of an egg; one teaspoonful of cinnamon.</p> + +<p>Boll the dough thin. Spread the butter upon it. Mix +sugar and cinnamon together, and sprinkle on it. Now +turn over the edges of the dough carefully to keep the +sugar in, and press and work gently for a few minutes, +that it may not break through. Knead till thoroughly +mixed. Roll out; cut like biscuit, and let them rise an +hour, baking in a quick oven.</p> + +<p>The same rule can be used for raised doughnuts.</p> + + +<p>DOUGHNUTS.</p> + +<p>First put on the lard, and let it be heating gradually. +To test it when hot, drop in a bit of bread; if it browns +as you count twenty, it is right. Never let it boil furiously, +or scorch. This is the rule for all frying, whether +fritters, croquettes, or cakes.</p> + +<p>One quart of flour into which has been sifted a teaspoonful +of salt, and one of soda if sour milk is used, or two +of baking powder if sweet milk. If cream can be had, +<a name="Page_229" id="Page_229"></a>use part cream, allowing one large cup of milk, or cream +and milk. One heaping cup of fine brown sugar; one +teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, and half a one of +mace or nutmeg; use one spoonful of butter, if you +have no cream, stirring it into the sugar. Add two or +three beaten eggs; mixing all as in general directions for +cake. They can be made without eggs. Roll out; cut in +shapes, and fry brown, taking them out with a fork into a +sieve set over a pan that all fat may drain off.</p> + +<p>Cut thin, and baked brown in a quick oven, these make +a good plain cooky.</p> + + +<p>GINGER SNAPS.</p> + +<p>One cup of butter and lard or dripping mixed, or +dripping alone can be used; one cup of molasses; one +cup of brown sugar; two teaspoonfuls of ginger, and one +each of clove, allspice, and mace; one teaspoonful of salt, +and one of soda dissolved in half a cup of hot water; one +egg.</p> + +<p>Stir together the shortening, sugar, molasses, and spice. +Add the soda, and then sifted flour enough to make a +dough,—about three pints. Turn on to the board, and +knead well. Take about quarter of it, and roll out thin as +a knife-blade. Bake in a quick oven. They will bake in +five minutes, and will keep for months. By using only +four cups of flour, this can be baked in a loaf as spiced +gingerbread; or it can be rolled half an inch thick, and +baked as a cooky. In this, as in all cakes, experience +will teach you many variations.</p> + + +<p>PLAIN GINGERBREAD.</p> + +<p>Two cups of molasses; one of sour milk; half a cup +of lard or drippings; four cups of flour; two teaspoonfuls +<a name="Page_230" id="Page_230"></a>of ginger, and one of cinnamon; half a teaspoonful of +salt; one egg, and a teaspoonful of soda.</p> + +<p>Mix molasses and shortening; add the spice and egg, +then the milk, and last the flour, with soda sifted in it. +Bake at once in a sheet about an inch thick for half an +hour. Try with a broom-straw. Good hot for lunch with +chocolate. A plain cooky is made by adding flour enough +to roll out. The egg may be omitted.</p> + + +<p>JUMBLES.</p> + +<p>The richest jumbles are made from either the rule for +Pound or Dover Cake, with flour enough added to roll out. +The Cup-Cake rule makes good but plainer ones. Make +rings, either by cutting in long strips and joining the ends, +or by using a large and small cutter. Sift sugar over the +top, and bake a delicate brown. By adding a large spoonful +of yellow ginger, any of these rules become hard +sugar-gingerbread, and all will keep for a long time.</p> + + +<p>DROP CAKES.</p> + +<p>Any of the rules last mentioned become drop cakes by +buttering muffin-tins or tin sheets, and dropping a teaspoonful +of these mixtures into them. If on sheets, let +them be two inches apart. Sift sugar over the top, and +bake in a quick oven. They are done as soon as brown.</p> + + +<p>CREAM CAKES.</p> + +<p>One pint of boiling water in a saucepan. Melt in it a +piece of butter the size of an egg. Add half a teaspoonful +of salt. While still boiling, stir in one large cup of +flour, and cook for three minutes. Take from the fire; +cool ten minutes; then break in, one by one, six eggs, +<a name="Page_231" id="Page_231"></a>and beat till smooth. Have muffin-pans buttered, or +large baking-sheets. Drop a spoonful of the mixture on +them, allowing room to spread, and bake half an hour in +a quick oven. Cool on a sieve, and, when cool, fill with a +cream made as below.</p> + +<p>FILLING FOR CREAM CAKES.</p> + +<p>One pint of milk, one cup of sugar, two eggs, half a +cup of flour, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut.</p> + +<p>Mix the sugar and flour, add the beaten eggs, and beat +all till smooth. Stir into the boiling milk with a teaspoonful +of salt, and boil for fifteen minutes. When cold, +add a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon. Make a slit in +each cake, and fill with the cream. Corn-starch may be +used instead of flour. This makes a very nice filling for +plain cup cake baked on jelly-cake tins.</p> + + +<p>MERINGUES, OR KISSES.</p> + +<p>Whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth; quarter of +a pound of sifted powdered sugar; a few drops of vanilla.</p> + +<p>Add the sugar to the whites. Have ready a hard-wood +board which fits the oven. Wet the top well with boiling +water, and cover it with sheets of letter-paper. Drop the +meringue mixture on this in large spoonfuls, and set in a +<i>very slow</i> oven. The secret of a good meringue is to <i>dry</i>, +not bake; and they should be in the oven at least half an +hour. Take them out when dry. Slip a thin, sharp knife +under each one, and put two together; or scoop out the +soft part very carefully, and fill with a little jelly or with +whipped cream.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="PASTRY_AND_PIES" id="PASTRY_AND_PIES" /><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232"></a>PASTRY AND PIES.</h2> + + +<p>In the first place, don't make either, except very semi-occasionally. +Pastry, even when good, is so indigestible +that children should never have it, and their elders but +seldom. A nice short-cake made as on p. 209, and filled +with stewed fruit, or with fresh berries mashed and sweetened, +is quite as agreeable to eat, and far more wholesome. +But, as people <i>will</i> both make and eat pie-crust, the best +rules known are given.</p> + +<p>Butter, being more wholesome than lard, should always +be used if it can be afforded. A mixture of lard and +butter is next best. Clarified dripping makes a good +crust for meat pies, and cream can also be used. For +dumplings nothing can be better than a light biscuit-crust, +made as on p. 208. It is also good for meat pies.</p> + + +<p>PLAIN PIE-CRUST.</p> + +<p>One quart of flour; one even teacup of lard, and one +of butter; one teacup of ice-water or very cold water; +and a teaspooonful of salt.</p> + +<p>Rub the lard and salt into the flour till it is dry and +crumbly. Add the ice-water, and work to a smooth +dough. Wash the butter, and have it cold and firm as +possible. Divide it in three parts. Roll out the paste, +and dot it all over with bits from one part of the butter. +Sprinkle with flour, and roll up. Roll out, and repeat till +the butter is gone. If the crust can now stand on the ice +for half an hour, it will be nicer and more flaky. This +amount will make three good-sized pies. Enough for the +<a name="Page_233" id="Page_233"></a>bottom crusts can be taken off after one rolling in of butter, +thus making the top crust richer. Lard alone will +make a tender, but not a flaky, paste.</p> + + +<p>PUFF PASTE.</p> + +<p>One pound of flour; three-quarters of a pound of butter; +one teacupful of ice-water; one teaspoonful of salt, +and one of sugar; yolk of one egg.</p> + +<p>Wash the butter; divide into three parts, reserving a +bit the size of an egg; and put it on the ice for an hour. +Rub the bit of butter, the salt, and sugar, into the flour, +and stir in the ice-water and egg beaten together. Make +into a dough, and knead on the molding-board till glossy +and firm: at least ten minutes will be required. Roll out +into a sheet ten or twelve inches square. Cut a cake of +the ice-cold butter in thin slices, or flatten it very thin +with the rolling-pin. Lay it on the paste, sprinkle with +flour, and fold over the edges. Press it in somewhat with +the rolling-pin, and roll out again. Always roll <i>from</i> you. +Do this again and again till the butter is all used, rolling +up the paste after the last cake is in, and then putting it +on the ice for an hour or more. Have filling all ready, +and let the paste be as nearly ice-cold as possible when +it goes into the oven. There are much more elaborate +rules; but this insures handsome paste. Make a plainer +one for the bottom crusts. Cover puff paste with a damp +cloth, and it may be kept on the ice a day or two before +baking.</p> + + +<p>PATTIES FROM PUFF PASTE.</p> + +<p>Roll the paste about a third of an inch thick, and cut +out with a round or oval cutter about two inches in diameter. +Take a cutter half an inch smaller, and press it into +<a name="Page_234" id="Page_234"></a>the piece already cut out, so as to sink half-way through +the crust: this to mark out the top piece. Lay on tins, +and bake to a delicate brown. They should treble in +thickness by rising, and require from twenty minutes to +half an hour to bake. When done, the marked-out top +can easily be removed. Take out the soft inside, and fill +with sweetmeats for dessert, or with minced chicken or +oysters prepared as on p. 140.</p> + + +<p>GRANDMOTHER'S APPLE PIE.</p> + +<p>Line a deep pie-plate with plain paste. Pare sour +apples,—greenings are best; quarter, and cut in thin +slices. Allow one cup of sugar, and quarter of a grated +nutmeg mixed with it. Fill the pie-plate heaping full of +the sliced apple, sprinkling the sugar between the layers. +It will require not less than six good-sized apples. Wet +the edges of the pie with cold water; lay on the cover, and +press down securely, that no juice may escape. Bake +three-quarters of an hour, or a little less if the apples are +very tender. No pie in which the apples are stewed +beforehand can compare with this in flavor. If they are +used, stew till tender, and strain. Sweeten and flavor to +taste. Fill the pies, and bake half an hour.</p> + + +<p>DRIED-APPLE PIES.</p> + +<p>Wash one pint of dried apples, and put in a porcelain +kettle with two quarts of warm water. Let them stand +all night. In the morning put on the fire, and stew slowly +for an hour. Then add one pint of sugar, a teaspoonful +of dried lemon or orange rind, or half a fresh lemon +sliced, and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon. Stew half +an hour longer, and then use for filling the pies. The +<a name="Page_235" id="Page_235"></a>apple can be strained if preferred, and a teaspoonful of +butter added. This quantity will make two pies. Dried +peaches are treated in the same way.</p> + + +<p>LEMON PIES.</p> + +<p>Three lemons, juice of all and the grated rind of two; +two cups of sugar; three cups of boiling water; three +tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold +water; three eggs; a piece of butter the size of an egg.</p> + +<p>Pour the boiling water on the dissolved corn-starch, and +boil for five minutes. Add the sugar and butter, the yolks +of the eggs beaten to a froth, and last the lemon juice and +rind. Line the plates with crust, putting a narrow rim of +it around each one. Pour in the filling, and bake half an +hour. Beat the whites to a stiff froth; add half a teacup +of powdered sugar and ten drops of lemon extract, and, +when the pie is baked, spread this on. The heat will cook +it sufficiently, but it can be browned a moment in the oven. +If to be kept a day, do not make the frosting till just before +using. The whites will keep in a cold place. Orange +pie can be made in the same way.</p> + + +<p>SWEET-POTATO PIE OR PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One pound of hot, boiled sweet potato rubbed through +a sieve; one cup of butter; one heaping cup of sugar; +half a grated nutmeg; one glass of brandy; a pinch of +salt; six eggs.</p> + +<p>Add the sugar, spice, and butter to the hot potato. +Beat whites and yolks separately, and add, and last the +brandy. Line deep plates with nice paste, making a rim of +puff paste. Fill with the mixture, and bake till the crust is +done,—about half an hour. Wickedly rich, but very deli<a name="Page_236" id="Page_236"></a>cious. +Irish potatoes can be treated in the same way, and +are more delicate.</p> + + +<p>SQUASH OR PUMPKIN PIE.</p> + +<p>Prepare and steam as in directions on p. 194. Strain +through a sieve. To a quart of the strained squash add +one quart of new milk, with a spoonful or two of cream +if possible; one heaping cup of sugar into which has +been stirred a teaspoonful of salt, a heaping one of ginger, +and half a one of cinnamon. Mix this with the +squash, and add from two to four well-beaten eggs. Bake +in deep plates lined with plain pie-crust. They are done +when a knife-blade on being run into the middle comes +out clean. About forty minutes will be enough. For +pumpkin pie half a cup of molasses may be added, and +the eggs can be omitted, substituting half a cup of flour +mixed with the sugar and spice before stirring in. A teaspoonful +of butter can also be added.</p> + + +<p>CHERRY AND BERRY PIES.</p> + +<p>Have a very deep plate, and either no under crust save +a rim, or a very thin one. Allow a cup of sugar to a +quart of fruit, but no spices. Stone cherries. Prick the +upper crust half a dozen times with a fork to let out the +steam.</p> + +<p>For rhubarb or pie-plant pies, peel the stalks; cut them +in little bits, and fill the pie. Bake with an upper crust.</p> + + +<p>CUSTARD PIE.</p> + +<p>Line and rim deep plates with pastry, a thin custard +pie being very poor. Beat together a teacupful of sugar, +four eggs, and a pinch of salt, and mix slowly with one +<a name="Page_237" id="Page_237"></a>quart of milk. Fill the plate up to the pastry rim <i>after +it is in the oven</i>, and bake till the custard is firm, trying, as +for squash pies, with a knife-blade.</p> + + +<p>MINCE-MEAT FOR PIES.</p> + +<p>Two pounds of cold roast or boiled beef, or a small +beef-tongue, boiled the day beforehand, cooled and +chopped; one pound of beef-suet, freed from all strings, +and chopped fine as powder; two pounds of raisins +stoned and chopped; one pound of currants washed and +dried; six pounds of chopped apples; half a pound of +citron cut in slips; two pounds of brown sugar; one pint +of molasses; one quart of boiled cider; one pint of wine +or brandy, or a pint of any nice sirup from sweet pickles +may be substituted; two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt; +one teaspoonful of pepper; three tablespoonfuls of ground +cinnamon; two of allspice; one of clove; one of mace; +three grated nutmegs; grated rind and juice of three +lemons; a cupful of chopped, candied orange or lemon +peel.</p> + +<p>Mix spices and salt with sugar, and stir into the meat +and suet. Add the apples, and then the cider and other +wetting, stirring very thoroughly. Lastly, mix in the +fruit. Fill and bake as in apple pies. This mince-meat +will keep two months easily. If it ferments at all, put +over the fire in a porcelain-lined kettle, and boil half an +hour. Taste, and judge for yourselves whether more or +less spice is needed. Butter can be used instead of suet, +and proportions varied to taste.</p> + + +<p>RAMMEKINS, OR CHEESE STRAWS.</p> + +<p>One pound of puff paste; one cup of good grated +<a name="Page_238" id="Page_238"></a>cheese. Roll the paste half an inch thick; sprinkle on +half the cheese; press in lightly with the rolling-pin; roll +up, and roll out again, using the other half of the cheese. +Fold, and roll about a third of an inch thick. Cut in long, +narrow strips, four or five inches long and half an inch +wide, and bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown. Excellent +with chocolate at lunch, or for dessert with fruit.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="PUDDINGS_BOILED_AND_BAKED" id="PUDDINGS_BOILED_AND_BAKED" />PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED.</h2> + +<p>For boiled puddings a regular pudding-boiler holding +from three pints to two quarts is best, a tin pail with a +very tight-fitting cover answering instead, though not as +good. For large dumplings a thick pudding-cloth—the +best being of Canton flannel, used with the nap-side out—should +be dipped in hot water, and wrung out, dredged +evenly and thickly with flour, and laid over a large bowl. +From half to three-quarters of a yard square is a good +size. In filling this, pile the fruit or berries on the rolled-out +crust which has been laid in the middle of the cloth, +and gather the edges of the paste evenly over it. Then +gather the cloth up, leaving room for the dumpling to +swell, and tying very tightly. In turning out, lift to a +dish; press all the water from the ends of the cloth; untie +and turn away from the pudding, and lay a hot dish upon +it, turning over the pudding into it, and serving at once, +as it darkens or falls by standing.</p> + +<p>In using a boiler, butter well, and fill only two-thirds +full that the mixture may have room to swell. Set it in +<a name="Page_239" id="Page_239"></a>boiling water, and see that it is kept at the same height, +about an inch from the top. Cover the outer kettle that +the steam may be kept in. Small dumplings, with a single +apple or peach in each, can be cooked in a steamer. +Puddings are not only much more wholesome, but less +expensive than pies.</p> + + +<p>APPLE DUMPLING.</p> + +<p>Make a crust, as for biscuit, or a potato-crust as follows: +Three large potatoes, boiled and mashed while hot. +Add to them two cups of sifted flour and one teaspoonful +of salt, and mix thoroughly. Now chop or cut into +it one small cup of butter, and mix into a paste with +about a teacupful of cold water. Dredge the board thick +with flour, and roll out,—thick in the middle, and thin +at the edges. Fill, as directed, with apples pared and +quartered, eight or ten good-sized ones being enough for +this amount of crust. Boil for three hours. Turn out as +directed, and eat with butter and sirup or with a made +sauce. Peaches pared and halved, or canned ones drained +from the sirup, can be used. In this case, prepare the +sirup for sauce, as on p. 172. Blueberries are excellent +in the same way.</p> + + +<p>ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING, OR CHRISTMAS PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One pound of raisins stoned and cut in two; one pound +of currants washed and dried; one pound of beef-suet +chopped very fine; one pound of bread-crumbs; one pound +of flour; half a pound of brown sugar; eight eggs; one +pint of sweet milk; one teaspoonful of salt; a tablespoonful +of cinnamon; two grated nutmegs; a glass each of +wine and brandy.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240"></a>Prepare the fruit, and dredge thickly with flour. Soak +the bread in the milk; beat the eggs, and add. Stir in +the rest of the flour, the suet, and last the fruit. Boil six +hours either in a cloth or large mold. Half the amounts +given makes a good-sized pudding; but, as it will keep +three months, it might be boiled in two molds. Serve +with a rich sauce.</p> + + +<p>ANY-DAY PLUM PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One cup of sweet milk; one cup of molasses; one cup +each of raisins and currants; one cup of suet chopped +fine, or, instead, a small cup of butter; one teaspoonful of +salt, and one of soda, sifted with three cups of flour; one +teaspoonful each of cinnamon and allspice.</p> + +<p>Mix milk, molasses, suet, and spice; add flour, and +then the fruit. Put in a buttered mold, and boil three +hours. Eat with hard or liquid sauce. A cupful each of +prunes and dates or figs can be substituted for the fruit, +and is very nice; and the same amount of dried apple, +measured after soaking and chopping, is also good. Or +the fruit can be omitted altogether, in which case it becomes +"Troy Pudding."</p> + + +<p>BATTER PUDDING, BOILED OR BAKED.</p> + +<p>Two cups of flour in which is sifted a heaping teaspoonful +of baking powder, two cups of sweet milk, four eggs, +one teaspoonful of salt. Stir the flour gradually into the +milk, and beat hard for five minutes. Beat yolks and +whites separately, and then add to batter. Have the +pudding-boiler buttered. Pour in the batter, and boil +steadily for two hours. It may also be baked an hour in +a buttered pudding-dish. Serve at once, when done, with +a liquid sauce.<a name="Page_241" id="Page_241"></a></p> + + +<p>SUNDERLAND PUDDINGS.</p> + +<p>Are merely puffs or pop-overs eaten with sauce. See +p. 209.</p> + + +<p>BREAD PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One cup of dried and rolled bread-crumbs, or one pint +of fresh ones; one quart of milk; two eggs; one cup of +sugar; half a teaspoonful of cinnamon; a little grated +nutmeg; a saltspoonful of salt.</p> + +<p>Soak the crumbs in the milk for an hour or two; mix +the spice and salt with the sugar, and beat the eggs with +it, stirring them slowly into the milk. Butter a pudding-dish; +pour in the mixture; and bake half an hour, or till +done. Try with a knife-blade, as in general directions. +The whites may be kept out for a meringue, allowing half +a teacup of powdered sugar to them. By using fresh +bread-crumbs and four eggs, this becomes what is known +as "Queen of Puddings." As soon as done, spread the +top with half a cup of any acid jelly, and cover with the +whites which have been beaten stiff, with a teacupful of +sugar. Brown slightly in the oven. Half a pound of +raisins may be added.</p> + + +<p>BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING.</p> + +<p>Fill a pudding-dish two-thirds full with very thin slices +of bread and butter. A cupful of currants or dried cherries +may be sprinkled between the slices. Make a custard +of two eggs beaten with a cup of sugar; add a quart of +milk, and pour over the bread. Cover with a plate, and +set on the back of the stove an hour; then bake from half +to three-quarters of an hour. Serve very hot, as it falls +when cool.<a name="Page_242" id="Page_242"></a></p> + + +<p>BREAD-AND-APPLE PUDDING.</p> + +<p>Butter a deep pudding-dish, and put first a layer of +crumbs, then one of any good acid apple, sliced rather thin, +and so on till the dish is nearly full. Six or eight apples +and a quart of fresh crumbs will fill a two-quart dish. +Dissolve a cup of sugar and one teaspoonful of cinnamon +in one pint of boiling water, and pour into the dish. Let +the pudding stand half an hour to swell; then bake till +brown,—about three-quarters of an hour,—and eat with +liquid sauce. It can be made with slices of bread and +butter, instead of crumbs.</p> + + +<p>BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING.</p> + +<p>Wash one teacupful of tapioca, and put it in one quart +of cold water to soak for several hours. Pare and core as +many good apples as will fit in a two-quart buttered pudding-dish. +When the tapioca is softened, add a cupful of +sugar, a pinch of salt, and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, +and pour over the apples. Bake an hour, and eat +with or without sauce.</p> + + +<p>TAPIOCA PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One quart of milk; one teacupful of tapioca; three eggs; +a cup of sugar; a teaspoonful of salt; a tablespoonful of +butter; a teaspoonful of lemon extract.</p> + +<p>Wash the tapioca, and soak in the milk for two hours, +setting it on the back of the stove to swell. Beat eggs +and sugar together, reserving whites for a meringue if +liked; melt the butter, and add, and stir into the milk. +Bake half an hour. Sago pudding is made in the same +way.<a name="Page_243" id="Page_243"></a></p> + + +<p>TAPIOCA CREAM.</p> + +<p>One teacupful of tapioca washed and soaked over-night +in one pint of warm water. Next morning add a quart +of milk and a teaspoonful of salt, and boil in a milk-boiler +for two hours. Just before taking it from the fire, +add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of vanilla, +and three eggs beaten with a cup of sugar. The whites +may be made in a meringue. Pour into a glass dish which +has had warm water standing in it, to prevent cracking, +and eat cold. Rice or sago cream is made in the same +way.</p> + + +<p>PLAIN RICE PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One cup of rice; three pints of milk; one heaping cup +of sugar; one teaspoonful of salt.</p> + +<p>Wash the rice well. Butter a two-quart pudding-dish, +and stir rice, sugar, and salt together. Pour on the milk. +Grate nutmeg over it, and bake for three hours. Very +good.</p> + + +<p>MINUTE PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One quart of milk; one pint of flour; two eggs; one +teaspoonful of salt.</p> + +<p>Boil the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs, and +add the flour slowly, with enough of the milk to make it +smooth. Stir into the boiling milk, and cook it half an +hour. Eat with liquid sauce or sirup. It is often made +without eggs.</p> + + +<p>CORN-STARCH PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One quart of milk; four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch; +one cup of sugar; three eggs; a teaspoonful each of +salt and vanilla.</p> + +<p>Boil the milk; dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold +milk, and add. Cook five minutes, and add the eggs and +<a name="Page_244" id="Page_244"></a>flavoring beaten with the sugar. Turn into a buttered +dish, and bake fifteen minutes, covering then with a meringue +made of the whites, or cool in molds, in this case +using only the whites of the eggs. The yolks can be +made in a custard to pour around them. A cup of grated +cocoanut can be added, or two teaspoonfuls of chocolate +stirred smooth in a little boiling water.</p> + + +<p>GELATINE PUDDING.</p> + +<p>Four eggs; one pint of milk; one cup of sugar; a saltspoonful +of salt; a teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla; a +third of a box of gelatine.</p> + +<p>Soak the gelatine a few minutes in a little cold water, +and then dissolve it in three-quarters of a cup of boiling +water. Have ready a custard made from the milk and +yolks of the eggs. Beat the yolks and sugar together, +and stir into the boiling milk. When cold, add the gelatine +water and the whites of the eggs beaten very stiff. +Pour into molds. It is both pretty and good.</p> + + +<p>CABINET PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One quart of milk; half a package of gelatine; a teaspoonful +each of salt and vanilla; a cup of sugar.</p> + +<p>Boil the milk; soak the gelatine fifteen minutes in a +little cold water; dissolve in the boiling milk, and add the +sugar and salt. Now butter a Charlotte-Russe mold +thickly. Cut slips of citron into leaves or pretty shapes, +and stick on the mold. Fill it lightly with any light cake, +either plain or rich. Strain on the gelatine and milk, and +set in a cold place. Turn out before serving. Delicate +crackers may be used instead of cake.<a name="Page_245" id="Page_245"></a></p> + + +<p>CORN-MEAL OR INDIAN PUDDING.</p> + +<p>One quart of milk; one cup of sifted corn meal; one +cup of molasses (not "sirup"); one teaspoonful of salt.</p> + +<p>Stir meal, salt, and molasses together. Boil the milk, +and add slowly. Butter a pudding-dish, and pour in the +mixture; adding, after it is set in the oven, one cup of cold +milk poured over the top. Bake three hours in a moderate +oven.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<h2><a name="CUSTARDS_CREAMS_JELLIES_ETC" id="CUSTARDS_CREAMS_JELLIES_ETC" />CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC.</h2> + + +<p>BAKED CUSTARD.</p> + +<p>One quart of milk; four eggs; one teacup of sugar; +half a teaspoonful of salt; nutmeg.</p> + +<p>Boil the milk. Beat the eggs very light, and add the +sugar and salt. Pour on the milk very slowly, stirring +constantly. Bake in a pudding-dish or in cups. If in +cups, set them in a baking-pan, and half fill it with boiling +water. Grate nutmeg over each. The secret of a good +custard is in slow baking and the most careful watching. +Test often with a knife-blade, and do not bake an instant +after the blade comes out smooth and clean. To be eaten +cold. Six eggs are generally used; but four are plenty.</p> + + +<p>BOILED CUSTARD.</p> + +<p>One quart of milk; three or four eggs; one cup of +sugar; one teaspoonful of vanilla; half a teaspoonful of +salt; one teaspoonful of corn-starch.</p> + +<p>Boil the milk. Dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold +water, and boil in the milk five minutes. It prevents the +<a name="Page_246" id="Page_246"></a>custard from curdling, which otherwise it is very apt to do. +Beat the eggs and sugar well together, stir into the milk, +and add the salt and flavoring. Take at once from the +fire, and, when cool, pour either into a large glass dish, +covering with a meringue of the whites, or into small +glasses with a little jelly or jam at the bottom of each. +Or the whites can be used in making an apple-float, as +below, and the yolks for the custard.</p> + +<p>For <i>Cocoanut Custard</i> add a cup of grated cocoanut; +for <i>Chocolate</i>, two tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate +dissolved in half a cup of boiling water.</p> + + +<p>TIPSY PUDDING.</p> + +<p>Make a boiled custard as directed. Half fill a deep +dish with any light, stale cake. Add to a teacup of wine +a teacup of boiling water, and pour over it. Add the custard +just before serving.</p> + + +<p>APPLE FLOAT.</p> + +<p>Six good, acid apples stewed and strained. When +cold, add a teacupful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of +vanilla, and the beaten whites of three or four eggs. +Serve at once.</p> + + +<p>BLANCMANGE.</p> + +<p>One quart of milk; one cup of sugar; half a package +of gelatine; half a teaspoonful of salt; a teaspoonful of +any essence liked.</p> + +<p>Soak the gelatine ten minutes in half a cup of cold +water. Boil the milk, and add gelatine and the other +ingredients. Strain into molds, and let it stand in a cold +place all night to harden. For chocolate blancmange add +two tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate dissolved in a +little boiling water.<a name="Page_247" id="Page_247"></a></p> + + +<p>SPANISH CREAM.</p> + +<p>Make a blancmange as on p. 238; but, just before +taking from the fire, add the yolks of four eggs, and then +strain. The whites can be used for meringues.</p> + + +<p>WHIPPED CREAM.</p> + +<p>One pint of rich cream; one cup of sugar; one glass +of sherry or Madeira.</p> + +<p>Mix all, and put on the ice an hour, as cream whips +much better when chilled. Using a whip-churn enables it +to be done in a few minutes; but a fork or egg-beater will +answer. Skim off all the froth as it rises, and lay on a +sieve to drain, returning the cream which drips away to +be whipped over again. Set on the ice a short time before +serving.</p> + + +<p>CHARLOTTE RUSSE.</p> + +<p>Make a sponge cake as on p. 216, and line a Charlotte +mold with it, cutting a piece the size of the bottom, and +fitting the rest around the sides. Fill with cream whipped +as above, and let it stand on the ice to set a little. This +is the easiest form of Charlotte. It is improved by the +beaten whites of three eggs stirred into the cream. Flavor +with half a teaspoonful of vanilla if liked.</p> + + +<p>BAVARIAN CREAM.</p> + +<p>Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth. Boil a pint of +rich milk with a teacupful of sugar, and add a teaspoonful +of vanilla. Soak half a box of gelatine for an hour in +half a cup of warm water, and add to the milk. Add +the yolks of four eggs beaten smooth, and take from the +fire instantly.</p> + +<p>When cold and just beginning to thicken, stir in the +<a name="Page_248" id="Page_248"></a>whipped cream. Put in molds, and set in a cold place. +This can be used also for filling Charlotte Russe. For +chocolate add chocolate as directed in rule for boiled custard; +for coffee, one teacup of clear, strong coffee.</p> + + +<p>STRAWBERRY CREAM.</p> + +<p>Three pints of strawberries mashed fine. Strain the +juice, and add a heaping cup of sugar, and then gelatine +soaked as above, and dissolved in a teacup of boiling +water. Add the pint of whipped cream, and pour into +molds.</p> + + +<p>FRUIT CREAMS.</p> + +<p>Half a pint of peach or pine-apple marmalade stirred +smooth with a teacupful of sweet cream. Add gelatine +dissolved as in rule for strawberry cream, and, when cold, +the pint of whipped cream. These creams are very delicious, +and not as expensive as rich pastry.</p> + + +<p>OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE.</p> + +<p>Six whites and three yolks of eggs; three tablespoonfuls +of powdered sugar sifted; a few drops of lemon or +vanilla. Beat the yolks, flavoring, and sugar to a light +cream; beat the whites to the stiffest froth. Have the +yolks in a deep bowl. Turn the whites on to them, and +do not stir, but mix, by cutting down through the middle, +and gradually mixing white and yellow. Turn on to a +tin or earthen baking-dish with high sides, and bake in +a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes. It will rise +very high, and must be served the instant it is done, to +avoid its falling.<a name="Page_249" id="Page_249"></a></p> + + +<p>FRIED CREAM.</p> + +<p>One pint of milk; half a cup of sugar; yolks of three +eggs; two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and one of flour +mixed; half a teaspoonful of vanilla, and two inches of +stick-cinnamon; a teaspoonful of butter.</p> + +<p>Boil the cinnamon in the milk. Stir the corn-starch +and flour smooth in a little cold milk or water, and add to +the milk. Beat the yolks light with the sugar, and add. +Take from the fire; take out the cinnamon, and stir in the +butter and vanilla, and pour out on a buttered tin or dish, +letting it be about half an inch thick. When cold and +stiff, cut into pieces about three inches long and two wide. +Dip carefully in sifted cracker-crumbs; then in a beaten +egg, and in crumbs again, and fry like croquettes. Dry +in the oven four or five minutes, and serve at once. Very +delicious.</p> + + +<p>PEACH FRITTERS.</p> + +<p>Make a batter as on p. 208. Take the fruit from a +small can of peaches, lay it on a plate, and sprinkle with +a spoonful of sugar and a glass of wine. Let it lie an +hour, turning it once. Dip each piece in batter, and drop +in boiling lard, or chop and mix with batter. Prepare the +juice for a sauce as on p. 172. Fresh peaches or slices +of tender apple can be used in the same way. Drain +on brown paper, and sift sugar over them, before they +go to table.</p> + + +<p>FREEZING OF ICE CREAM AND ICES.</p> + +<p>With a patent freezer ice cream and ices can be prepared +with less trouble than puff paste. The essential +points are the use of rock-salt, and pounding the ice into +small bits. Set the freezer in the centre of the tub. Put +<a name="Page_250" id="Page_250"></a>a layer of ice three inches deep, then of salt, and so on +till the tub is full, ending with ice. Put in the cream, and +turn for ten minutes, or till you can not turn the beater. +Then take off the cover, scrape down the sides, and beat +like cake for at least five minutes. Pack the tub again, +having let off all water; cover with a piece of old carpet. +If molds are used, fill as soon as the cream is frozen; +pack them full of it, and lay in ice and salt. When ready +to turn out, dip in warm water a moment. Handle gently, +and serve at once.</p> + + +<p>ICE CREAM OF CREAM.</p> + +<p>To a gallon of sweet cream add two and a quarter +pounds of sugar, and four tablespoonfuls of vanilla or +other extract, as freezing destroys flavors. Freeze as +directed.</p> + + +<p>ICE CREAM WITH EGGS.</p> + +<p>Boil two quarts of rich milk, and add to it, when boiling, +four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch wet with a cup of cold +milk. Boil for ten minutes, stirring often. Beat twelve +eggs to a creamy froth with a heaping quart of sugar, and +stir in, taking from the fire as soon as it boils. When +cold, add three tablespoonfuls of vanilla or lemon, and +two quarts either of cream or very rich milk, and freeze. +For strawberry or raspberry cream allow the juice of one +quart of berries to a gallon of cream. For chocolate +cream grate half a pound of chocolate; melt it with one +pint of sugar and a little water, and add to above rule.</p> + + +<p>WATER ICES.</p> + +<p>Are simply fruit juices and water made very sweet, with +a few whites of eggs whipped stiff, and added.<a name="Page_251" id="Page_251"></a> +For lemon ice take two quarts of water, one quart of +sugar, and the juice of seven lemons. Mix and add, after +it has begun to freeze, the stiffly-beaten whites of four +eggs. Orange ice is made in the same way.</p> + + +<p>WINE JELLY.</p> + +<p>One box of gelatine; one cup of wine; three lemons, +juice and rind; a small stick of cinnamon; one quart of +boiling water; one pint of white sugar.</p> + +<p>Soak the gelatine in one cup of cold water half an hour. +Boil the cinnamon in the quart of water for five minutes, +and then add the yellow rind of the lemons cut very thin, +and boil a minute. Take out cinnamon and rinds, and +add sugar, wine, and gelatine. Strain at once through a +fine strainer into molds, and, when cold, set on the ice to +harden. To turn out, dip for a moment in hot water. A +pint of wine is used, if liked very strong.</p> + + + +<p>LEMON JELLY.</p> + +<p>Omit the wine, but make as above in other respects, +using five lemons. Oranges are nice also. The juice may +be used as in lemon jelly, or the little sections may be +peeled as carefully as possible of all the white skin. Pour +a little lemon jelly in a mold, and let it harden. Then +fill with four oranges prepared in this way, and pour in +liquid jelly to cover them. Candied fruit may be used instead. +The jelly reserved to add to the mold can be kept +in a warm place till the other has hardened. Fresh strawberries +or raspberries, or cut-up peaches, can be used instead +of oranges.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252"></a><a name="CANNING_AND_PRESERVING" id="CANNING_AND_PRESERVING" />CANNING AND PRESERVING.</h2> + +<p>Canning is so simple an operation that it is unfortunate +that most people consider it difficult. The directions generally +given are so troublesome that one can not wonder it +is not attempted oftener; but it need be hardly more care +than the making of apple sauce, which, by the way, can +always be made while apples are plenty, and canned for +spring use. In an experience of years, not more than one +can in a hundred has ever been lost, and fruit put up at +home is far nicer than any from factories.</p> + +<p>In canning, see first that the jars are clean, the rubbers +whole and in perfect order, and the tops clean and ready +to screw on. Fill the jars with hot (not boiling) water half +an hour before using, and have them ready on a table +sufficiently large to hold the preserving-kettle, a dish-pan +quarter full of hot water, and the cans. Have ready, also, +a deep plate, large enough to hold two cans; a silver +spoon; an earthen cup with handle; and, if possible, a can-filler,—that +is, a small tin in strainer-shape, but without +the bottom, and fitting about the top. The utmost speed +is needed in filling and screwing down tops, and for this +reason every thing <i>must be</i> ready beforehand.</p> + +<p>In filling the can let the fruit come to the top; then +run the spoon-handle down on all sides to let out the air; +pour in juice till it runs over freely, and screw the top +down at once, using a towel to protect the hand. Set at +once in a dish-pan of water, as this prevents the table +being stained by juice, and also its hardening on the hot +can. Proceed in this way till all are full; wipe them dry; +<a name="Page_253" id="Page_253"></a>and, when cold, give the tops an additional screw, as the +glass contracts in cooling, and loosens them. Label them, +and keep in a dark, cool closet. When the fruit is used, +wash the jar, and dry carefully at the back of the stove. +Wash the rubber also, and dry on a towel, putting it in +the jar when dry, and screwing on the top. They are +then ready for next year's use. Mason's cans are decidedly +the best for general use.</p> + + +<p>GENERAL RULES FOR CANNING.</p> + +<p>For all small fruits allow one-third of a pound of sugar +to a pound of fruit. Make it into a sirup with a teacup +of water to each pound, and skim carefully. Throw in the +fruit, and boil ten minutes, canning as directed. Raspberries +and blackberries are best; huckleberries are excellent +for pies, and easily canned. Pie-plant can be stewed +till tender. It requires half a pound of sugar to a pound +of fruit.</p> + +<p>For peaches, gages, &c, allow the same amount of +sugar as for raspberries. Pare peaches, and can whole or +in halves as preferred. Prick plums and gages with a +large darning-needle to prevent their bursting. In canning +pears, pare and drop at once, into cold water, as this +prevents their turning dark.</p> + +<p>Always use a porcelain-lined kettle, and stir either with +a silver or a wooden spoon,—never an iron one. Currants +are nice mixed with an equal weight of raspberries, and +all fruit is more wholesome canned than in preserves.</p> + + +<p>TO CAN TOMATOES.</p> + +<p>Unless very plenty, it is cheaper to buy these in the tins. +Pour on boiling water to help in removing the skins; fill +<a name="Page_254" id="Page_254"></a>the preserving kettle, but add no water. Boil them five +minutes, and then can. Do not season till ready to use +them for the table. Okra and tomatoes may be scalded +together in equal parts, and canned for soups.</p> + + +<p>PRESERVES.</p> + +<p>Preserves are scarcely needed if canning is nicely done. +They require much more trouble, and are too rich for +ordinary use, a pound of sugar to one of fruit being required. +If made at all, the fruit must be very fresh, +and the sirup perfectly clear. For sirup allow one teacup +of cold water to every pound of sugar, and, as it heats, +add to every three or four pounds the white of an egg. +Skim very carefully, boiling till no more rises, and it is +ready for use. Peaches, pears, green gages, cherries, and +crab-apples are all preserved alike. Peel, stone, and halve +peaches, and boil only a few pieces at a time till clear. +Peel, core, and halve pears. Prick plums and gages several +times. Core crab-apples, and cut half the stem from +cherries. Cook till tender. Put up <i>when cold</i> in small +jars, and paste paper over them.</p> + + +<p>JAMS.</p> + +<p>Make sirup as directed above. Use raspberries, strawberries, +or any small fruit, and boil for half an hour. Put +up in small jars or tumblers; lay papers dipped in brandy +on the fruit, and paste on covers, or use patent jelly-glasses.</p> + + +<p>MARMALADE.</p> + +<p>Quinces make the best; but crab-apples or any sour +apple are also good. Poor quinces, unfit for other use, +can be washed and cut in small pieces, coring, but not +paring them. Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar +<a name="Page_255" id="Page_255"></a>and a teacupful of water to a pound of fruit, and boil +slowly two hours, stirring and mashing it fine. Strain +through a colander, and put up in glasses or bowls. Peach +marmalade is made in the same way.</p> + + +<p>CURRANT JELLY.</p> + +<p>The fruit must be picked when just ripened, as when +too old it will not form jelly. Look over, and then put +stems and all in a porcelain-lined kettle. Crush a little of +the fruit to form juice, but add no water. As it heats, +jam with a potato-masher; and when hot through, strain +through a jelly-bag. Let all run off that will, before +squeezing the bag. It will be a little clearer than the +squeezed juice. To every pint of this juice add one +pound of best white sugar, taking care that it has not a +blue tinge. Jelly from bluish-white sugars does not harden +well. Boil the juice twenty-five minutes; add the sugar, +and boil for five more. Put up in glasses.</p> + + +<p>ORANGE MARMALADE.</p> + +<p>This recipe, taken from the "New York Evening Post," +has been thoroughly tested by the author, and found +delicious.</p> + +<p>"A recipe for orange marmalade that I think will be +entirely new to most housewives, and that I know is delicious, +comes from an English housekeeper. It is a sweet +that is choice and very healthful. If made now, when +oranges and lemons are plentiful, it may be had at a cost +of from five to six cents for a large glass. The recipe +calls for one dozen oranges (sweet or part bitter), one +half-dozen lemons, and ten pounds of granulated sugar.<a name="Page_256" id="Page_256"></a> +Wash the fruit in tepid water thoroughly, and scrub the +skins with a soft brush to get rid of the possible microbes +that it is said may lurk on the skins of fruit. Dry the +fruit; take a very sharp knife, and on a hard-wood board +slice it very thin. Throw away the thick pieces that come +off from the ends. Save all the seeds, and put them in +one bowl; the sliced fruit in another. Pour half a gallon +of water over the contents of each bowl, and soak for +thirty-six hours. Then put the fruit in your preserving-kettle, +with the water that has been standing on it, and +strain in (through a colander) the water put on the lemon-seeds. +Cook gently two hours; then add the sugar, and +cook another hour, or until the mixture jellies. Test by +trying a little in a saucer. Put away in glasses or cans, +as other jelly."</p> + + +<p>FRUIT JELLIES.</p> + +<p>Crab-apple, quince, grapes, &c., are all made in the +same way. Allow a teacup of water to a pound of fruit; +boil till very tender; then strain through a cloth, and treat +as currant jelly. Cherries will not jelly without gelatine, +and grapes are sometimes troublesome. Where gelatine +is needed, allow a package to two quarts of juice.</p> + + +<p>CANDIED FRUITS.</p> + +<p>Make a sirup as for preserves, and boil any fruit, prepared +as directed, until tender. Let them stand two days +in the sirup. Take out; drain carefully; lay them on +plates; sift sugar over them, and dry either in the sun or +in a moderately warm oven.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257"></a><a name="PICKLES_AND_CATCHUPS" id="PICKLES_AND_CATCHUPS" />PICKLES AND CATCHUPS.</h2> + +<p>Sour pickles are first prepared by soaking in a brine +made of one pint of coarse salt to six quarts of water. +Boil this, and pour it scalding hot over the pickle, cucumbers, +green tomatoes, &c. Cucumbers may lie in this a +week, or a month even, but must be soaked in cold water +two days before using them. Other pickles lie only a +month.</p> + +<p>Sweet pickles are made from any fruit used in preserving, +allowing three, or sometimes four, pounds of sugar to +a quart of best cider vinegar, and boiling both together.</p> + + +<p>CUCUMBER PICKLES.</p> + +<p>Half a bushel of cucumbers, small, and as nearly as +possible the same size. Make a brine as directed, and +pour over them. Next morning prepare a pickle as follows: +Two gallons of cider vinegar; one quart of brown +sugar. Boil, and skim carefully, and add to it half a +pint of white mustard seed; one ounce of stick-cinnamon +broken fine; one ounce of alum; half an ounce +each of whole cloves and black pepper-corns. Boil five +minutes, and pour over the cucumbers. They can be +used in a week. In a month scald the vinegar once more, +and pour over them.</p> + + +<p>TOMATO CHUTNEY.</p> + +<p>One peck of green tomatoes; six large green peppers; +six onions; one cup of salt. Chop onions and peppers +fine, slice the tomatoes about quarter of an inch thick, +<a name="Page_258" id="Page_258"></a>and sprinkle the salt over all. In the morning drain off +all the salt and water, and put the tomatoes in a porcelain-lined +kettle. Mix together thoroughly two pounds of +brown sugar; quarter of a pound of mustard-seed; one +ounce each of powdered cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and +black pepper; half an ounce of allspice; quarter of an +ounce each of cayenne pepper and ground mustard. Stir +all into the tomatoes; cover with cider vinegar,—about +two quarts,—and boil slowly for two hours. Very nice, +but very hot. If wanted less so, omit the cayenne and +ground mustard.</p> + + +<p>RIPE CUCUMBER OR MELON-RIND PICKLES.</p> + +<p>Pare, seed, and cut lengthwise into four pieces, or in +thick slices. Boil an ounce of alum in one gallon of +water, and pour over them, letting them stand at least half +a day on the back of the stove. Take them out, and let +them lie in cold water until cold. Have ready a quart +of vinegar, three pounds of brown sugar, and an ounce of +stick-cinnamon and half an ounce cloves. Boil the vinegar +and sugar, and skim; add the spices and the melon +rind or cucumber, and boil for half an hour.</p> + + +<p>SWEET-PICKLED PEACHES, PEARS, OR PLUMS.</p> + +<p>Seven pounds of fruit; four pounds of brown sugar; +one quart of vinegar; one ounce of cloves; two ounces of +stick-cinnamon. Pare the peaches or not, as liked. If +unpared, wash and wipe each one to rub off the wool. +Boil vinegar and sugar, and skim well; add spices, sticking +one or two cloves in each peach. Boil ten minutes, +and take out into jars. Boil the sirup until reduced one-half, +and pour over them. Pears are peeled and cored; +<a name="Page_259" id="Page_259"></a>apples peeled, cored, and quartered. They can all be put +in stone jars; but Mason's cans are better.</p> + + +<p>TOMATO CATCHUP.</p> + +<p>Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes, skins and all, and, when +soft, strain through a colander. Be sure that it is a colander, +and <i>not</i> a sieve, for reasons to be given. Add to +this pulp two quarts of best vinegar; one cup of salt; +two pounds of brown sugar; half an ounce of cayenne +pepper; three ounces each of powdered allspice and mace; +two ounces of powdered cinnamon; three ounces of +celery-seed. Mix spices and sugar well together, and stir +into the tomato; add the vinegar, and stir thoroughly. +Now strain the whole through a <i>sieve</i>. A good deal of +rather thick pulp will not go through. Pour all that runs +through into a large kettle, and let it boil slowly till reduced +one-half. Put the thick pulp into a smaller kettle, +and boil twenty minutes. Use as a pickle with cold +meats or with boiled fish. A teacupful will flavor a soup. +In the old family rule from which this is taken, a pint of +brandy is added ten minutes before the catchup is done; +but it is not necessary, though an improvement. Bottle, +and keep in a cool, dark place. It keeps for years.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + + +<h2><a name="CANDIES" id="CANDIES" />CANDIES.</h2> + + +<p>CREAM CANDY.</p> + +<p>One pound of granulated sugar; one teacupful of water; +half a teacupful of vinegar. Boil—trying very often +after the first ten minutes—till it will harden in cold +water. Cool, and pull white.<a name="Page_260" id="Page_260"></a></p> + + +<p>CHOCOLATE CARAMELS.</p> + +<p>One cup of sugar; one cup of milk; half a cup of +molasses; two ounces of grated chocolate. Melt the +chocolate in a very little water; add the sugar, milk, and +molasses, and boil twenty minutes, or until very thick. +Pour in buttered pans, and cut in small squares when cool.</p> + + +<p>MOLASSES CANDY.</p> + +<p>Two cups of molasses, one of brown sugar, a teaspoonful +of butter, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil +from twenty minutes to half an hour. Pour in a buttered +dish, and pull when cool.</p> + + +<p>NUT CANDY.</p> + +<p>Make molasses candy as above. Just before taking it +from the fire, add a heaping pint of shelled peanuts or +walnuts. Cut in strips before it is quite cold.</p> + + +<p>COCOANUT DROPS.</p> + +<p>One cocoanut grated; half its weight in powdered +sugar; whites of two eggs; one teaspoonful of corn-starch. +Mix corn-starch and sugar; add cocoanut, and +then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Make in little +cones, and bake on buttered paper in a slow oven.</p> + + +<p>CHOCOLATE CREAMS.</p> + +<p>One pound of granulated sugar; half a pound of chocolate; +one teaspoonful of acetic acid; one tablespoonful +of water; one teaspoonful of vanilla. Melt the sugar +slowly, wetting a little with the water. Add the acid +and vanilla, and boil till sugary, trying <i>very</i> often by +stirring a little in a saucer. When sugary, take from the +<a name="Page_261" id="Page_261"></a>fire, and stir until almost hard; then roll in little balls, +and put on a buttered plate. Melt the chocolate in two +tablespoonfuls of water with a cup of sugar, and boil +five minutes. When just warm, dip in the little balls till +well coated, and lay on plates to dry. Very nice.</p> + + +<hr style='width: 65%;' /> + + +<h2><a name="SICK_ROOM_COOKERY" id="SICK_ROOM_COOKERY" />SICK-ROOM COOKERY.</h2> + +<p>GENERAL HINTS.</p> + +<p>As recovery from any illness depends in large part upon +proper food, and as the appetite of the sick is always +capricious and often requires tempting, the greatest pains +should be taken in the preparation of their meals. If +only dry toast and tea, let each be perfect, remembering +instructions for making each, and serving on the freshest +of napkins and in dainty china. A <i>tête-à-tête</i> service is +very nice for use in a sick-room; and in any case a very +small teapot can be had, that the tea may always be made +fresh. Prepare only a small amount of any thing, and +never discuss it beforehand. A surprise will often rouse +a flagging appetite. Be ready, too, to have your best +attempts rejected. The article disliked one day may be +just what is wanted the next. Never let food stand in a +sick-room,—for it becomes hateful to a sensitive patient,—and +have every thing as daintily clean as possible. +Remember, too, that gelatine is not nourishing, and do not +be satisfied to feed a patient on jellies. Bread from any +brown flour will be more nourishing than wheat. Corn +meal is especially valuable for thin, chilly invalids, as it +<a name="Page_262" id="Page_262"></a>contains so much heat. In severe sickness a glass tube +is very useful for feeding gruels and drinks, and little +white china boats with spouts are also good. A wooden +tray with legs six or seven inches high, to stand on the +bed, is very convenient for serving meals. Let ventilation, +sunshine, and absolute cleanliness rule in the sick-room. +Never raise a dust, but wipe the carpet with a +damp cloth, and pick up bits as needed. Never let lamp +or sun light shine directly in the eyes, and, when the patient +shows desire to sleep, darken the room a little. Never +whisper, nor wear rustling dresses, nor become irritated +at exactions, but keep a cheerful countenance, which helps +often far more than drugs. Experience must teach the +rest.</p> + + +<p>BEEF TEA, OR ESSENCE OF BEEF.</p> + +<p>Cut a pound of perfectly lean beef into small bits. Do +not allow any particle of fat to remain. Put in a wide-mouthed +bottle, cork tightly, and set in a kettle of cold +water. Boil for three hours; pour off the juice, which is +now completely extracted from the meat. There will be +probably a small cupful. Season with a saltspoonful of +salt. This is given in extreme sickness, feeding a teaspoonful +at a time.</p> + + +<p>BEEF TEA FOR CONVALESCENTS.</p> + +<p>One pound of lean beef prepared as above. Add a +pint of cold water,—rain-water is best,—and soak for an +hour. Cover closely, and boil for ten minutes; or put in +the oven, and let it remain an hour. Pour off the juice, +season with half a teaspoonful of salt, and use. A little +celery salt makes a change.<a name="Page_263" id="Page_263"></a></p> + + +<p>CHICKEN BROTH.</p> + +<p>The bones and a pound of meat from a chicken put +in three pints of cold water. Skim thoroughly when it +comes to a boil, add a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer for +three hours. Strain and serve. A tablespoonful of +soaked rice or tapioca may be added after the broth is +strained. Return it in this case to the fire, and boil half +an hour longer.</p> + + +<p>CHICKEN JELLY.</p> + +<p>Boil chicken as for broth, but reduce the liquid to half a +pint. Strain into a cup or little mold, and turn out when +cold.</p> + + +<p>CHICKEN PANADA.</p> + +<p>Take the breast of the chicken boiled as above; cut in +bits, and pound smooth in a mortar. Take a teacupful of +bread-crumbs; soak them soft in warm milk, or, if liked +better, in a little broth. Mix them with the chicken; add +a saltspoonful of salt, and, if allowed, a pinch of mace; +and serve in a cup with a spoon.</p> + + +<p>BEEF, TAPIOCA, AND EGG BROTH.</p> + +<p>One pound of lean beef, prepared as for beef tea, and +soaked one hour in a quart of cold water. Boil slowly for +two hours. Strain it. Add a half teaspoonful of salt, +and half a cupful of tapioca which has been washed and +soaked an hour in warm water. Boil slowly half an hour. +Serve in a shallow bowl, in which a poached egg is put at +the last, or stir a beaten egg into one cup of the boiling +soup, and serve at once with wafers or crackers.</p> + + +<p>MUTTON BROTH.</p> + +<p>Made as chicken broth. Any strong stock, from which +the fat has been taken, answers for broths.<a name="Page_264" id="Page_264"></a></p> + + +<p>OATMEAL GRUEL.</p> + +<p>Have ready, in a double boiler, one quart of boiling +water with a teaspoonful of salt, and sprinkle in two tablespoonfuls +of fine oatmeal. Boil an hour; then strain, and +serve with cream or milk and sugar if ordered. Farina +gruel is made in the same way.</p> + + +<p>INDIAN OR CORN MEAL GRUEL.</p> + +<p>One quart of boiling water; one teaspoonful of salt. +Mix three tablespoonfuls of corn meal with a little cold +water, and stir in slowly. Boil one hour; strain and serve, +a cupful at once.</p> + + +<p>MILK PORRIDGE.</p> + +<p>One quart of boiling milk; two tablespoonfuls of flour +mixed with a little cold milk and half a teaspoonful of +salt. Stir into the milk, and boil half an hour.</p> + +<p>Strain and serve. If allowed, a handful of raisins and +a little grated nutmeg may be boiled with it.</p> + + +<p>WINE WHEY.</p> + +<p>Boil one cup of new milk, and add half a wine-glass of +good sherry or Madeira wine. Boil a minute; strain, and +use with or without sugar as liked.</p> + + +<p>EGG-NOG.</p> + +<p>One egg; one tablespoonful of sugar; half a cup of +milk; one tablespoonful of wine.</p> + +<p>Beat the sugar and yolk to a cream; add the wine, and +then the milk. Beat the white to a stiff froth, and stir in +very lightly.</p> + +<p>Omit the milk where more condensed nourishment is +desired.<a name="Page_265" id="Page_265"></a></p> + + +<p>ARROW-ROOT OR RICE JELLY.</p> + +<p>Two heaping teaspoonfuls of either arrow-root or rice +flour; a pinch of salt; a heaping tablespoonful of sugar; +one cup of boiling water.</p> + +<p>Mix the flour with a little cold water, and add to the +boiling water. Boil until transparent, and pour into cups +or small molds. For a patient with summer complaint, +flavor by boiling a stick of cinnamon in it. For a fever +patient add the juice of quarter of a lemon.</p> + + +<p>DR. GAUNT'S RICE JELLY.</p> + +<p>Take four tablespoonfuls of rice, and boil it hard in +three pints of water for twenty minutes. Let simmer for +two hours. Then force through fine hair strainer, and +allow it to cool. Place in an ice chest over night.</p> + +<p>DIRECTIONS FOR USE.</p> + +<p>Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of the rice jelly in each +one-half pint of milk.</p> + + +<p>RICE WATER FOR DRINK.</p> + +<p>One quart of boiling water; a pinch of salt; one tablespoonful +of rice or rice flour. Boil half an hour, and +strain.</p> + + +<p>TOAST WATER.</p> + +<p>Toast two slices of bread very brown, but do not scorch. +Put in a pitcher, and while hot pour on one quart of cold +water. Let it stand half an hour, and it is ready for +use.<a name="Page_266" id="Page_266"></a></p> + + +<p>CRUST COFFEE.</p> + +<p>Two thick slices of graham or Boston brown bread +toasted as brown as possible. Pour on one pint of boiling +water, and steep ten minutes. Serve with milk and sugar, +like coffee.</p> + + +<p>BEEF JUICE.</p> + +<p>Broil a thick piece of beef steak three minutes. Squeeze +all the juice with a lemon-squeezer into a cup; salt very +lightly, and give like beef tea.</p> + + +<p>JELLY AND ICE.</p> + +<p>Break ice in bits no bigger than a pea. A large pin will +break off bits from a lump very easily. To a tablespoonful +add one of wine jelly broken up. It is very refreshing +in fever.</p> + + +<p>PANADA.</p> + +<p>Lay in a bowl two Boston or graham crackers split; +sprinkle on a pinch of salt, and cover with boiling water. +Set the bowl in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it +stand half an hour, till the crackers look clear. Slide +into a hot saucer without breaking, and eat with cream +and sugar. As they are only good hot, do just enough +for the patient's appetite at one time.</p> + + +<p>MILK TOAST.</p> + +<p>Toast one or two thin slices of bread; dip quickly in a +little salted boiling water, and spread on a little butter. +Boil a teacupful of milk; thicken with a teaspoonful of +flour mixed in a little cold water with a pinch of salt; lay +<a name="Page_267" id="Page_267"></a>the toast in a small, hot, deep plate, and pour over the +milk. Cream toast is made in the same way.</p> + + +<p>BEEF SANDWICH.</p> + +<p>Two or three tablespoonfuls of raw, very tender beef, +scraped fine, and spread between two slices of slightly +buttered bread. Sprinkle on pepper and salt.</p> + + +<p>PREPARED FLOUR.</p> + +<p>Tie a pint of flour tightly in a cloth, and boil for four +hours. Scrape off the outer crust, and the inside will be +found to be a dry ball. Grate this as required, allowing +one tablespoonful wet in cold milk to a pint of boiling +milk, and boiling till smooth. Add a saltspoonful of salt. +This is excellent for summer complaint, whether in adults +or children. The beaten white of an egg can also be +stirred in if ordered. If this porridge is used from the +beginning of the complaint, little or no medicine will be +required.</p> + + +<p>PARCHED RICE.</p> + +<p>Roast to a deep brown as you would coffee, and then +cook as in rule for boiled rice, p. 199, and eat with cream +and sugar.</p> + + +<p>RICE COFFEE.</p> + +<p>Parch as above, and grind. Allow half a cup to a quart +of boiling water, and let it steep fifteen minutes. Strain, +and drink plain, or with milk and sugar.</p> + + +<p>HERB TEAS.</p> + +<p>For the dried herbs allow one teaspoonful to a cup of +boiling water. Pour the water on them; cover, and steep +<a name="Page_268" id="Page_268"></a>ten minutes or so. Camomile tea is good for sleeplessness; +calamus and catnip for babies' colic; and cinnamon +for hemorrhages and summer complaint. Slippery-elm +and flax-seed are also good for the latter.</p> + + +<p>BEEF STEAK OR CHOPS, ETC.</p> + +<p>With beef steak, cut a small thick piece of a nice +shape; broil carefully, and serve on a very hot plate, salting +a little, but using no butter unless allowed by the +physician.</p> + +<p>Chops should be trimmed very neatly, and cooked in +the same way. A nice way of serving a chop is to broil, +and cut in small bits. Have ready a baked potato. Cut +a slice from the top; take out the inside, and season as for +eating; add the chop, and return all to the skin, covering +it, and serving as hot as possible.</p> + +<p>When appetite has returned, poached eggs on toast, a +little salt cod with cream, or many of the dishes given +under the head of Breakfast Dishes, are relished. Prepare +small quantities, preserving the right proportions +of seasoning.</p> + + +<p>TAPIOCA JELLY.</p> + +<p>Two ounces of tapioca,—about two tablespoonfuls,—soaked +over-night in one cup of cold water. In the morning +add a second cup of cold water, and boil till very +clear. Add quarter of a cup of sugar; two teaspoonfuls +of brandy or four of wine; or the thin rind and juice of +a lemon may be used instead. Very good hot, but better +poured into small molds wet with cold water, and turned +out when firm.<a name="Page_269" id="Page_269"></a></p> + + +<p>TAPIOCA GRUEL.</p> + +<p>Half a cup of tapioca soaked over-night in a cup of +cold water. In the morning add a quart of milk and half +a teaspoonful of salt, and boil three hours. It can be +eaten plain, or with sugar and wine. Most of the blancmanges +and creams given can be prepared in smaller +quantities, if allowed. Baked custards can be made with +the whites of the eggs, if a very delicate one is desired.</p> + + +<p>APPLE WATER.</p> + +<p>Two roasted sour apples, or one pint of washed dried +apples. Pour on one quart of boiling water; cover, and +let it stand half an hour, when it is ready for use.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270"></a><a name="HOUSEHOLD_HINTS" id="HOUSEHOLD_HINTS" />HOUSEHOLD HINTS.</h2> + + +<p>SOFT SOAP.</p> + +<p>All mutton and ham fat should be melted and strained +into a large stone pot. The practice of throwing lumps +of fat into a pot, and waiting till there are several pounds +before trying them out, is a disgusting one, as often such +a receptacle is alive with maggots. Try out the fat, and +strain as carefully as you would lard or beef drippings, +and it is then always ready for use. If concentrated lye +or potash, which comes in little tins, is used, directions will +be found on the tins. Otherwise allow a pound of stone +potash to every pound of grease. Twelve pounds of each +will make a barrel of soft soap.</p> + +<p>Crack the potash in small pieces. Put in a large kettle +with two gallons of water, and boil till dissolved. Then +add the grease, and, when melted, pour all into a tight +barrel. Fill it up with boiling water, and for a week, stir +daily for five or ten minutes. It will gradually become +like jelly.</p> + + +<p>TO PURIFY SINKS AND DRAINS.</p> + +<p>To one pound of common copperas add one gallon of +boiling water, and use when dissolved. The copperas is +poison, and must never be left unmarked.</p> + + +<p>FURNITURE POLISH.</p> + +<p>Mix two tablespoonfuls of sweet or linseed oil with a +tablespoonful of turpentine, and rub on with a piece of +flannel, polishing with a dry piece.<a name="Page_271" id="Page_271"></a></p> + + +<p>TO KEEP EGGS.</p> + +<p>Be sure that the eggs are fresh. Place them points +down in a stone jar or tight firkin, and pour over them +the following brine, which is enough for a hundred and +fifty:—</p> + +<p>One pint of slacked lime, one pint of salt, two ounces +of cream of tartar, and four gallons of water. Boil all +together for ten minutes; skim, and, when cold, pour it +over the eggs. They can also be kept in salt tightly +packed, but not as well.</p> + + +<p>TO MAKE HARD WATER SOFT.</p> + +<p>Dissolve in one gallon of boiling water a pound and a +quarter of washing soda, and a quarter of a pound of +borax. In washing clothes allow quarter of a cup of this +to every gallon of water.</p> + + +<p>TO TAKE OUT FRUIT-STAINS.</p> + +<p>Stretch the stained part tightly over a bowl, and pour +on boiling water till it is free from spot.</p> + + +<p>TO TAKE OUT INK-SPOTS.</p> + +<p>Ink spilled upon carpets or on woolen table-covers can +be taken out, if washed at once in cold water. Change +the water often, and continue till the stain is gone.</p> + + +<p>MIXED SPICES.</p> + +<p>Three heaping tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon, one +heaping one each of clove and mace, and one even one of +allspice. Mix thoroughly, and use for dark cakes and for +puddings.<a name="Page_272" id="Page_272"></a></p> + + +<p>SPICE SALT.</p> + +<p>Four ounces of salt; one of black pepper; one each of +thyme, sweet marjoram, and summer savory; half an ounce +each of clove, allspice, and mace; quarter of an ounce of +cayenne pepper; one ounce of celery salt. Mix all +together; sift three times, and keep closely covered. +Half an ounce will flavor a stuffing for roast meat; and a +tablespoonful is nice in many soups and stews.</p> + + +<p>TO WASH GREASY TIN AND IRON.</p> + +<p>Pour a few drops of ammonia into every greasy roasting-pan, +first half-filling with warm water. A bottle of +ammonia should always stand near the sink for such uses. +Never allow dirty pots or pans to stand and dry; for it +doubles the labor of washing. Pour in water, and use +ammonia, and the work is half done.</p> + + +<p>TO CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER.</p> + +<p>Scrape a little rotten-stone fine, and make into a paste +with sweet oil. Rub on with a piece of flannel; let it dry, +and polish with a chamois-skin. Copper is cleaned either +with vinegar and salt mixed in equal parts, or with oxalic +acid. The latter is a deadly poison, and must be treated +accordingly.</p> + + +<p>WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.</p> + +<p>As many families have no scales for weighing, a table of +measures is given which can be used instead. Weighing +is always best, but not always convenient. The cup used +is the ordinary coffee or kitchen cup, holding half a pint. +A set of tin measures, from a gill up to a quart, is very +useful in all cooking operations.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273"></a>One quart of sifted flour is one pound.</p> + +<p>One pint of granulated sugar is one pound.</p> + +<p>Two cups of butter packed are one pound.</p> + +<p>Ten eggs are one pound.</p> + +<p>Five cupfuls of sifted flour are one pound.</p> + +<p>A wine-glassful is half a gill.</p> + +<p>Eight even tablespoonfuls are a gill.</p> + +<p>Four even saltspoonfuls make a teaspoonful.</p> + +<p>A saltspoonful is a good measure of salt for all custards, +puddings, blancmanges, &c.</p> + +<p>One teaspoonful of soda to a quart of flour.</p> + +<p>Two teaspoonfuls of soda to one of cream of tartar.</p> + +<p>The teaspoonful given in all these receipts is just +rounded full, not heaped.</p> + +<p>Two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder to one +quart of flour.</p> + +<p>One cup of sweet or sour milk as wetting for one quart +of flour.</p> + + +<p>TIME TABLE FOR ROASTED MEATS.</p> + +<p>Beef, from six to eight pounds, one hour and a half, or +twelve minutes to the pound.</p> + +<p>Mutton, ten minutes to the pound for rare; fifteen for +well-done.</p> + +<p>Lamb, a very little less according to age and size of +roast.</p> + +<p>Veal, twenty minutes to a pound.</p> + +<p>Pork, half an hour to a pound.</p> + +<p>Turkey of eight or ten pounds weight, not less than +three hours.</p> + +<p>Goose of seven or eight pounds, two hours.</p> + +<p>Chickens, from an hour to an hour and a half.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274"></a>Tame ducks, one hour.</p> + +<p>Game duck, from thirty to forty minutes.</p> + +<p>Partridges, grouse, &c., half an hour.</p> + +<p>Pigeons, half an hour.</p> + +<p>Small birds, twenty minutes.</p> + + +<p>TIME TABLE FOR BOILED MEATS.</p> + +<p>Beef <i>à la mode</i>, eight pounds, four hours.</p> + +<p>Corned beef, eight pounds, four hours.</p> + +<p>Corned or smoked tongue, eight pounds, four hours.</p> + +<p>Ham, eight or ten pounds, five hours.</p> + +<p>Mutton, twenty minutes to a pound.</p> + +<p>Veal, half an hour to a pound.</p> + +<p>Turkey, ten pounds, three hours.</p> + +<p>Chickens, one hour and a half.</p> + +<p>Old fowls, two or three hours.</p> + + +<p>TIME TABLE FOR FISH.</p> + +<p>Halibut and salmon, fifteen minutes to a pound.</p> + +<p>Blue-fish, bass, &c., ten minutes to a pound.</p> + +<p>Fresh cod, six minutes to a pound.</p> + +<p>Baked halibut, twelve minutes to a pound.</p> + +<p>Baked blue-fish, &c., ten minutes to a pound.</p> + +<p>Trout, pickerel, &c., eight minutes to a pound.</p> + + +<p>TIME TABLE FOR VEGETABLES.</p> + +<p><i>Half an hour</i>,—Pease, potatoes, asparagus, rice, corn, +summer squash, canned tomatoes, macaroni.</p> + +<p><i>Three-quarters of an hour</i>,—Young beets, young turnips, +young carrots and parsnips, baked potatoes (sweet +and Irish), boiled sweet potatoes, onions, canned corn, +tomatoes.</p> + +<p><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275"></a><i>One hour</i>,—New cabbage, shelled and string beans, +spinach and greens, cauliflower, oyster-plant, and winter +squash.</p> + +<p><i>Two hours</i>,—Winter carrots, parsnips, turnips, cabbage, +and onions.</p> + +<p><i>Three to eight hours</i>,—Old beets.</p> + + +<p>TIME TABLE FOR BREAD, CAKES, ETC.</p> + +<p>Bread,—large loaves, an hour; small loaves, from half +to three-quarters of an hour.</p> + +<p>Biscuits and rolls, in from fifteen to twenty minutes.</p> + +<p>Brown bread, steamed, three hours.</p> + +<p>Loaves of sponge cake, forty-five minutes; if thin, +about thirty.</p> + +<p>Loaves of richer cake, from forty-five minutes to an +hour.</p> + +<p>Fruit cake, about two hours, if in two or three pound +loaves.</p> + +<p>Small thin cakes and cookies, from ten to fifteen minutes. +Watch carefully.</p> + +<p>Baked puddings, rice, &c., one hour.</p> + +<p>Boiled puddings, three hours.</p> + +<p>Custards to be watched and tested after the first fifteen +minutes.</p> + +<p>Batter puddings baked, forty-five minutes.</p> + +<p>Pie-crust, about half an hour.</p> + + +<p>DEVILED HAM.</p> + +<p>For this purpose, use either the knuckle or any odds +and ends remaining. Cut off all dark or hard bits, and +see that at least a quarter of the amount is fat. Chop +as finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. For +a pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows:—</p> + +<p><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276"></a>One even tablespoonful of sugar; one even teaspoonful +of ground mustard; one saltspoonful of Cayenne pepper; +one teacupful of good vinegar. Mix the sugar, mustard, +and pepper thoroughly, and add the vinegar little by +little. Stir it into the chopped ham, and pack it in small +molds, if it is to be served as a lunch or supper relish, +turning out upon a small platter and garnishing with +parsley.</p> + +<p>For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin; butter lightly, +and spread with about a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. +The root of a boiled tongue can be prepared in the same +way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in little jars, +and pour melted butter over the top.</p> + +<p>This receipt should have had place under "Meats," +but was overlooked.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277"></a>LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED FOR SUCCESSFUL WORKING.</h2> + + + +<p>TIN WARE.</p> + +<p>One boiler for clothes, holding eight or ten gallons.—Two +dish-pans,—one large, one medium-sized.—One two-quart +covered tin pail.—One four-quart covered tin pail.—Two +thick tin four-quart saucepans.—Two two-quart +saucepans.—Four measures, from one gill to a quart, and +broad and low, rather than high.—Three tin scoops of +different sizes for flour, sugar, &c.—Two pint and two +half-pint molds for jellies.—Two quart molds.—One +skimmer with long handle.—One large and one small +dipper.—Four bread-pans, 10x4x4.—Three jelly-cake +tins.—Six pie-plates.—Two long biscuit-tins.—One +coffee-pot.—One colander.—One large grater.—One +nutmeg-grater.—Two wire sieves; one ten inches across, +the other four, and with tin sides.—One flour-sifter.—One +fine jelly-strainer.—One frying-basket.—One Dover +egg-beater.—One wire egg-beater.—One apple-corer.—One +pancake-turner.—One set of spice-boxes, or a +spice-caster.—One pepper-box.—One flour-dredger.—One +sugar-dredger.—One biscuit-cutter.—One potato-cutter.—A +dozen muffin-rings.—Small tins for little cakes.—One +muffin-pan.—One double milk-boiler, the inside boiler +holding two quarts.—One fish-boiler, which can also +be used for hams.—One deep bread-pan; a dish-pan is +good, but must be kept for this.—One steamer.—One +pudding-boiler.—One cake-box.—Six teaspoons.<a name="Page_278" id="Page_278"></a></p> + + +<p>WOODEN WARE.</p> + +<p>One bread-board.—One rolling-pin.—One meat-board.—One +wash-board.—One lemon-squeezer.—One potato-masher.—Two +large spoons.—One small one.—Nest +of wooden boxes for rice, tapioca, &c.—Wooden pails +for graham and corn meal.—Chopping-tray.—Water-pail.—Scrubbing-pail.—Wooden +cover for flour-barrel.—One +board for cutting bread.—One partitioned knife-box.</p> + + +<p>IRON WARE.</p> + +<p>One pair of scales.—One two-gallon pot with steamer +to fit.—One three-gallon soup-pot with close-fitting +cover.—One three-gallon porcelain-lined kettle, to be +kept only for preserving.—One four or six quart one, +for apple sauce, &c.—One tea-kettle.—One large and +one small frying-pan.—Two Russia or sheet iron dripping-pans; +one large enough for a large turkey.—Two +gem-pans with deep cups.—Two long-handled spoons.—Two +spoons with shorter handles.—One large meat-fork.—One +meat-saw.—One cleaver.—One griddle.—One +wire broiler.—One toaster.—One waffle-iron.—One +can-opener.—Three pairs of common knives and +forks.—One small Scotch or frying kettle.—One chopping-knife.—One +meat-knife.—One bread-knife.—One +set of skewers.—Trussing-needles.</p> + + +<p>EARTHEN AND STONE WARE.</p> + +<p>Two large mixing-bowls, holding eight or ten quarts +each.—One eight-quart lip-bowl for cake.—Half a dozen +quart bowls.—Half a dozen pint bowls.—Three or four +deep plates for putting away cold food.—Six baking-dishes +of different sizes, round or oval.—Two quart +<a name="Page_279" id="Page_279"></a>blancmange-molds.—Two or three pitchers.—Two +stone crocks, holding a gallon each.—Two, holding two +quarts each.—One bean-pot for baked beans.—One +dozen Mason's jars for holding yeast, and many things +used in a store closet.—Stone jugs for vinegar and +molasses.—Two or three large covered stone jars for +pickles.—One deep one for bread.—One earthen teapot.—One +dozen pop-over cups.—One dozen custard-cups.—Measuring-cup.</p> + + +<p>MISCELLANEOUS.</p> + +<p>Scrubbing and blacking brushes.—Soap-dish.—Knife-board.—Vegetable-cutters.—Pastry-brush.—Egg-basket. +—Market-basket.—Broom.—Brush.—Dust-pan.—Floor and sink cloths.—Whisk-broom.—Four roller-towels.—Twelve +dish-towels.—Dishes enough for setting servants' table, heavy stone-china being best.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="HINTS_TO_TEACHERS" id="HINTS_TO_TEACHERS" /><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280"></a>HINTS TO TEACHERS.</h2> + + +<p>In beginning with a class of school-girls from fourteen +to eighteen, it is best to let the first two or three lessons +be demonstration lessons; that is, to have all operations +performed by the teacher. An assistant may be chosen +from the class, who can help in any required way. The +receipts for the day should first be read, and copied +plainly by all the pupils. Each process must be fully explained, +and be as daintily and deftly performed as possible. +Not more than six dishes at the most can be prepared +in one lesson, and four will be the usual number. +Two lessons a week, from two to three hours each, are all +for which the regular school-course gives time; and there +should be not more than one day between, as many dishes +can not be completed in one lesson.</p> + +<p>After yeast and bread have been once made by the +teacher, bread should be the first item in every lesson +thereafter, and the class made a practice-class. Each +pupil should make bread twice,—once under the teacher's +supervision, and at least once entirely alone. In a large +class this may occupy the entire time in the school-year. +Let the most important operations be thoroughly learned, +even if there is little variety. To make and bake all +forms of bread, to broil a steak, boil a potato, and make +good tea and coffee, may not seem sufficient result for a +<a name="Page_281" id="Page_281"></a>year's work; but the girl who can do this has mastered +the principles of cooking, and is abundantly able to go on +alone.</p> + +<p>The fire should be made and cared for by each in turn, +and the best modes of washing dishes, and keeping the +room and stores in the best order, be part of each lesson.</p> + +<p>Once a week let a topic be given out, on which all are +to write, any ingredient in cooking being chosen, and the +papers read and marked in order of merit.</p> + +<p>Once a month examine on these topics, and on what has +been learned. Let digestion and forms of food be well +understood, and spare no pains to make the lesson attractive +and stimulating to interest.</p> + +<p>In classes for ladies the work is usually done entirely +by the teacher, and at least five dishes are prepared. A +large class can thus be taught; but the results will never +be as satisfactory as in a practice-class, though the latter +is of course much more troublesome to the teacher, as it +requires far more patience and tact to watch and direct the +imperfect doing of a thing than to do it one's self.</p> + +<p>A class lunch or supper is a pleasant way of demonstrating +what progress has been made; and, in such entertainment, +do not aim at great variety, but insist upon the +perfect preparation of a few things. To lay and decorate +a table prettily is an accomplishment, and each classroom +should have enough china and glass to admit of +this.</p> + +<p>To indicate the method which the writer has found +practicable and useful, a course of twelve lessons is given, +embracing the essential operations; and beyond this the +teacher can construct her own bills of fare. When the +<a name="Page_282" id="Page_282"></a>making of bread begins, it will be found that not more +than two or three other things can be made at one lesson. +Let one of these be a simple cake or pudding for the +benefit of the class, whose interest is wonderfully stimulated +by something good to eat.</p> + +<p>Large white aprons and small half-sleeves to draw on +over the dress-sleeves are essential, and must be insisted +upon. A little cap of Swiss muslin is pretty, and finishes +the uniform well, but is not a necessity.</p> + +<p>For the rest each teacher must judge for herself, only +remembering to <i>demand the most absolute neatness</i> in all +work done, and to <i>give the most perfect patience</i> no matter +how stupid the pupil may seem.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="TWELVE_LESSONS" id="TWELVE_LESSONS" />TWELVE LESSONS.</h2> + + +<p>LESSON FIRST.</p> + +<p> +To make stock.<br /> +Beef rolls.<br /> +Apple float.<br /> +Boiled custard.<br /> +</p> + +<p>LESSON SECOND.</p> + +<p> +To clarify fat or drippings.<br /> +Clear soup.<br /> +Beef soup with vegetables.<br /> +To make caramel.<br /> +Cream cakes.<br /> +</p> + +<p><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283"></a>LESSON THIRD.</p> + +<p> +Beef <i>à la mode</i>.<br /> +To boil potatoes.<br /> +Mashed potatoes.<br /> +Potato snow.<br /> +Potato croquettes.<br /> +Yeast.<br /> +Wine jelly.<br /> +</p> + +<p>LESSON FOURTH.</p> + +<p> +Bread.<br /> +Plain rolls.<br /> +Beef hash with potatoes.<br /> +Beef croquettes.<br /> +Coddled apples.<br /> +</p> + +<p>LESSON FIFTH.</p> + +<p> +Graham bread.<br /> +Rye bread.<br /> +To broil beef steak.<br /> +To boil macaroni.<br /> +Macaroni baked with cheese.<br /> +To make a <i>roux</i>.<br /> +Baked custard.<br /> +</p> + +<p>LESSON SIXTH.</p> + +<p> +Parker-House rolls.<br /> +Steamed brown bread.<br /> +Purée of salmon.<br /> +Croquettes of salmon.<br /> +Corn-starch pudding.<br /> +</p> + +<p><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284"></a>LESSON SEVENTH.</p> + +<p> +Baked fish.<br /> +To devil ham.<br /> +Stuffed eggs.<br /> +Plain omelet.<br /> +Saratoga potatoes.<br /> +To use stale bread.<br /> +Bread pudding and plain sauce.<br /> +</p> + +<p>LESSON EIGHTH.</p> + +<p> +Irish stew.<br /> +Boiled cabbage.<br /> +Baked cabbage.<br /> +Lyonnaise potatoes.<br /> +Whipped cream.<br /> +Sponge cake.<br /> +Charlotte Russe.<br /> +</p> + +<p>LESSON NINTH.</p> + +<p> +Bean soup.<br /> +To dress and truss a chicken.<br /> +Chicken fricassee,—brown.<br /> +Chicken pie.<br /> +Meringues, plain and with jelly.<br /> +</p> + +<p>LESSON TENTH.</p> + +<p> +Oyster soup.<br /> +Oyster scallop.<br /> +Fried oysters.<br /> +Pie-crust.<br /> +Oyster patties.<br /> +Lemon and apple pie.<br /> +</p> + +<p><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285"></a>LESSON ELEVENTH.</p> + +<p> +To bone a turkey or chicken.<br /> +Force-meat.<br /> +Boiled parsnips.<br /> +To boil rice.<br /> +Parsnip fritters.<br /> +</p> + +<p>LESSON TWELFTH.</p> + +<p> +To decorate boned turkey.<br /> +To roast beef.<br /> +To bake potatoes with beef.<br /> +Gravy.<br /> +Rice croquettes.<br /> +Chicken or turkey croquettes.<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_TOPICS_FOR_TWENTY_LESSONS" id="LIST_OF_TOPICS_FOR_TWENTY_LESSONS" />LIST OF TOPICS FOR TWENTY LESSONS.</h2> + +<p> +Wheat and corn.<br /> +Making of flour and meal.<br /> +Tea.<br /> +Coffee.<br /> +Chocolate and cocoa.<br /> +Tapioca and sago.<br /> +Rice.<br /> +Salt.<br /> +Pepper.<br /> +Cloves and allspice.<br /> +Cinnamon, nutmegs, and mace.<br /> +Ginger and mustard.<br /> +Olive-oil.<br /><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286"></a> +Raisins and currants.<br /> +Macaroni and vermicelli.<br /> +Potatoes.<br /> +Sweet potatoes.<br /> +Yeast and bread.<br /> +Butter.<br /> +Fats.<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_AUTHORITIES_TO_WHICH_THE_TEACHER_MAY_REFER" id="LIST_OF_AUTHORITIES_TO_WHICH_THE_TEACHER_MAY_REFER" />LIST OF AUTHORITIES TO WHICH THE TEACHER +MAY REFER.</h2> + +<p> +Draper's Physiology.<br /> +Dalton's Physiology.<br /> +Carpenter's Physiology.<br /> +Foster's Physiology.<br /> +Youman's Chemistry.<br /> +Johnston's Chemistry of Common Life.<br /> +Lewes's Physiology of Common Life.<br /> +Gray's How Plants Grow.<br /> +Rand's Vegetable Kingdom.<br /> +Brillât Savarin's Art of Dining.<br /> +Brillât Savarin's Physiologie du Goût.<br /> +The Cook's Oracle, Dr. Kitchener.<br /> +Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Chambers.<br /> +Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Pary.<br /> +Food and Digestion, by Dr. Brinton.<br /> +Food, by Dr. Letheby.<br /> +Cook-books at discretion.<br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> +<h2><a name="QUESTIONS_FOR_FINAL_EXAMINATION_AT_END_OF" id="QUESTIONS_FOR_FINAL_EXAMINATION_AT_END_OF" /><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287"></a>QUESTIONS FOR FINAL EXAMINATION AT END OF YEAR</h2> + + + +<div class="left"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='right'>1.</td><td align='left'>How is soup-stock made?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>2.</td><td align='left'>How is white soup made?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>3.</td><td align='left'>What are purées?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>4.</td><td align='left'>How is clear soup made?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>5.</td><td align='left'>How is caramel made, and what are its uses?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>6.</td><td align='left'>How is meat jelly made and colored?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>7.</td><td align='left'>How is meat boiled, roasted, and broiled?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>8.</td><td align='left'>How can cold meat be used?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>9.</td><td align='left'>How is poultry roasted and broiled?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>10.</td><td align='left'>How are potatoes cooked?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>11.</td><td align='left'>How are dried leguminous vegetables cooked?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>12.</td><td align='left'>How is rice boiled dry?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>13.</td><td align='left'>How is macaroni boiled?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>14.</td><td align='left'>How are white and brown sauces made?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>15.</td><td align='left'>Give plain salad-dressing and mayonnaise.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>16.</td><td align='left'>How are beef tea and chicken broth made?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>17.</td><td align='left'>Give receipts for plain omelet and omelette soufflée.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>18.</td><td align='left'>How are bread, biscuit, and rolls made?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>19.</td><td align='left'>How is pie-crust made?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>20.</td><td align='left'>Rule for puff paste?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>21.</td><td align='left'>How should you furnish a kitchen?</td></tr> +<tr><td align='right'>22.</td><td align='left'>What are the best kinds of cooking utensils?</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<div><br /></div> +<div><br /></div> +<div><br /></div> +<h2>END.</h2> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>Transcriber's Notes for e-book:</h2> + +<p><i>In this book, spelling is inconsistent, but is generally left as found in +the original scans used for transcription. Some of the most common +inconsistencies are noted below. If you are using this book for research, +please verify any spelling or punctuation with another source.</i></p> + +<p> +<b>Spelling variants:</b><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">omelet(te), omlet</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">souflé(e)</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gouffé(e)</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cocoanut, cocoa-nut</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dishcloth, dish-cloth</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">forcemeat, force-meat</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oilcloth, oil-cloth</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">popovers, pop-overs</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">schoolgirls, school-girls</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">storeroom, store-room</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">underdone, under-done</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">underwear, under-wear</span><br /> +<br /> +<b>Obvious typos corrected:</b><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">identital for identical</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cacoa-nut for cocoa-nut</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">BOILED for BROILED</span><br /> +</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="BIBLIOGRAPHY" id="BIBLIOGRAPHY" /><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288"></a>BIBLIOGRAPHY.</h2> + + +<p>THE CHEMISTRY OF COOKERY. By W. Mattieu Williams.</p> + +<p>THE PERFECT WAY IN DIET. By Dr. Anna Kingsford.</p> + +<p>FOODS. By Edward Smith.</p> + +<p>FRUITS, AND HOW TO USE THEM. By Hester M. Poole.</p> + +<p>EATING FOR STRENGTH. Dr. M.L. Holbrook.</p> + +<p>FRUIT AND BREAD. By Gustav Schlickeyesen. Translated +by Dr. M.L. Holbrook.</p> + +<p>FOOD AND FEEDING. By Sir Henry Thompson.</p> + +<p>MRS. LINCOLN'S BOSTON COOK BOOK. What to Do and +What not to Do in Cooking.</p> + +<p>JUST HOW. By Mrs. A.D.T. Whitney.</p> + +<p>MRS. RORER'S PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK.</p> + +<p>PRACTICAL COOKING AND DINNER-GIVING. Mrs. Henderson.</p> + +<p>IN THE KITCHEN. By Mrs. E.S. Miller.</p> + +<p>GOOD LIVING. A Practical Cook Book for Town and +Country. By Sara Van Buren Brugière.</p> + +<p>FRENCH DISHES FOR AMERICAN TABLES. By Pierre Caron.</p> + +<p>CUISINE CLASSIQUE. Urbain-Dubois.</p> + +<p>CARÈME.</p> + +<p>GOUFFÉ.</p> + +<p>SOYER.</p> + +<p>DIET FOR THE SICK. A Treatise on the Values of Foods, +their Application to Special Conditions of Health and +Disease, and on the Best Methods of their Preparation. +By Mrs. Mary E. Henderson.</p> + +<p>Cookery-Books at discretion.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX" /><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289"></a>INDEX.</h2> + + +<p>PART II.</p> + +<p> +<br /> +Apple Dumplings, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">float, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Artichokes, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Asparagus, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Authorities for reference, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Beans, string, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shelled, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Beef <i>a la mode</i>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">corned, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">frizzled, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">juice, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rolls, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sandwich, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steak, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steak for sick, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tea or essence, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tea for convalescents, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Virginia fashion, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Beets, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bibliography, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Birds, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Biscuit, baking-powder, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beaten, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">soda and cream of tartar, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Blancmange, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Boiled meats and stews, <a href="#Page_146">146</a><br /> +<br /> +Bread-making and flour, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Bread, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brown, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cake, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">corn, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">graham, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pancakes, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rye, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sour, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to use dry, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to freshen stale, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Breakfast puffs or popovers, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Brown-bread brewis, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Broth, mutton, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chicken, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beef, tapioca, and egg, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Buns, plain, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>,<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Cake making, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cake, apple, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cup, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dover, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fruit, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gold, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">huckleberry, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pound, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rolled jelly, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sponge, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">white or silver, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Cakes, cream, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">filling for, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">drop, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">buckwheat, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Cabbage, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Candy, cream, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Candy, molasses, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.<br /><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290"></a> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">nut, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Chocolate creams, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caramels, <a href="#Page_260">260</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Cocoanut drops, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Canning, General Rules for, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomatoes, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Caramel, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Carrots, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Carrots <i>sautés</i>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Casserole of rice and meat, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cauliflower, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cheese fondu, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">soufflé, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Charlotte Russe, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cheese straws, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Chicken broth, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broth for sick, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croquettes, Philadelphia, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croquettes, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fricassee, brown, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fricassee, white, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">jellied, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">panada, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted or boiled, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salad, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Chocolate, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Cocoa, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Coffee, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crust, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rice, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Copper, to clean, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Corn, green, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fritters, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pudding, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Cream, Bavarian, 247.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fruit, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ice, with cream, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ice, with eggs, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to freeze, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">strawberry, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">whipped, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Crisped crackers, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Croquettes, chicken, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">potato, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rice, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Crushed wheat, boiled, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Curries, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Custard, baked, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Doughnuts, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Dressing, boiled for cold slaw, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for poultry, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">without oil, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plain salad, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Drop cakes, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Duck, roast, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Egg-nog, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br /> +Egg-plant, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fritters, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Eggs, baked, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poached, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scrambled, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to keep, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Examination questions, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Fish, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">balls, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chowder, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hash, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">potted, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br /><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291"></a> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salt cod, boiled, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salt cod, with cream, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spiced, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with cream, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Flour browned for soup, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">prepared, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Freezing ices and creams, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Fritters, clam, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oyster, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">peach, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Fruits, candied, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">jellied, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Fruit-stains, to take out, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Fruit cream, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Furniture polish, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Gingerbread, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ginger snaps, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Goose, roasted, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Gruel, corn meal or Indian, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oatmeal, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tapioca, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Ham, boiled, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">deviled, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Hash, meat, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Hasty pudding, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Herb teas, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Herring, roe, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Hints to teachers, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Hoe-cake, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Hominy cakes, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">coarse, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fine, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Huckleberry cake, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Ink-spots, to take out, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Iron or tin, to wash, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.<br /> +Italia's Pride, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Jams, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Jelly and ice, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrow-root, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rice, Dr. Gaunt's, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chicken, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">currant, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fruit, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lemon, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rice, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tapioca, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wine, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Jumbles, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +List of utensils required, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Lobster, boiled, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">curried, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Macaroni, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with cheese, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Mackerel, salt, <a href="#Page_189">189</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Marmalade, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Marmalade, orange, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of salmon, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Meats, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled and fried, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Meat, cold, to warm, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Meringues, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mince-meat, for pies, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Muffins, graham, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rye, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Mush, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Mutton, boiled, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broth, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broth for sick, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chops, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leg of, stuffed, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Oatmeal, boiled, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Omelet, plain, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</span><br /><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292"></a> +<br /> +Omelette soufflée, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Onions, boiled, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Oyster or clam fritters, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Oyster-plant, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Oysters, fried, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for pie or patties, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scalloped, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">smothered, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spiced or pickled, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Panada, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Parsnips, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fritters, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Pastry and pies, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Patties, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Pease, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">field, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Pickles, cucumber, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ripe cucumber, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">melon-rind, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sweet; peaches, &c, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>,</span><br /> +<br /> +Pie, cherry or berry, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">custard, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dried-apple, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">grandmother's apple-pie, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lemon, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">squash or pumpkin, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sweet potato, or pudding, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Plain pie-crust, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Pork and beans, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steak, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Potato croquettes, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">snow, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Potatoes, baked, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked with beef, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lyonnaise, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mashed, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saratoga, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Potatoes, stewed, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sweet, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">what to do with cold, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Poultry, to clean, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dressing for, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Porridge, milk, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Preserves, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Pudding, any-day plum, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">batter, <a href="#Page_240">240</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread-and-apple, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread-and-butter, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bird's-nest, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">corn-starch, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cabinet, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">corn-meal or Indian, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">English plum, <a href="#Page_239">239</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gelatine, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">minute, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plain rice, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Sunder land, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tapioca, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tapioca cream, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tipsy, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Puff paste, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Purées, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Rammekins, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Rice, boiled, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croquettes, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">parched, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Rolls, plain, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parker-House, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>,</span><br /> +<br /> +Roux, to make, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Salads, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Salmi of duck or game, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sauces, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sauce, apple, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">celery, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cranberry, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</span><br /><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293"></a> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">foaming, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fruit, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hard, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mint, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">molasses, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plain pudding, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Spanish tomato, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sausage, fried, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Short-cake, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Sinks and drains, to purify, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Soft soap, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Soup, amber or clear, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beef, with vegetables, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">clam, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mock turtle, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">onion, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oyster, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pea, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomato, without meat, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomato, hasty, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">turtle-bean, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">white, <a href="#Page_124">124</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Spanish tomato sauce, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Spinach, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Spice salt, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Spices, mixed, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Stew, Brunswick, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brown, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Irish, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">white, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Stock and seasoning, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Squash, winter, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">summer, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Succotash, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Tea, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Time table for roasted meats, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for boiled meats, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for fish, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for vegetables, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread, cake, &c., <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Toast, dry or buttered, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for sick, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">milk, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>,</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Topics for twenty lessons, <a href="#Page_285">285</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Tomato catchup, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chutney, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Tomatoes, baked, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">canned, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Tongue, boiled, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">deviled, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Tripe, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Turkey, boiled, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boned, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Turnips, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Twelve lessons, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Veal, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cutlets, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">loaf, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">minced, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Venison, roast, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Wafers, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Waffles, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rice or hominy, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Water, apple, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">toast, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hard, to make soft, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ices, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</span><br /> +<br /> +Weights and measures, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.<br /> +<br /> +Wine whey, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Yeast, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.<br /> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>ADVERTISEMENTS</h2> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294"></a>SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE</h3> +<h3>OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH.</h3> + +<p class="center">BY HELEN CAMPBELL.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>16mo. Cloth. Price, $1.00.</i></p> + +<p>Besides being equal to Mrs. Campbell's best work in the +past, it is strikingly original in presenting the ethics of +the body as imperiously claiming recognition in the radical +cure of inebriety. It forces attention to the physical and +spiritual value of foods, and weaves precedent and precept +into one of the most beguiling stories of recent date.</p> + +<blockquote><p>It is the gospel of good food, with the added influence of fresh air, sunlight, +cleanliness, and physical exercise that occupy profitably the attention of Helen +Campbell. Martha is a baby when the story begins, and a child not yet in her +teens when the narrative comes to an end, but she has a salutary power over +many lives. Her father is a wise country physician, who makes his chaise, in his +daily progress about the hills, serve as his little daughter's cradle and kindergarten. +When she gets old enough to understand he expounds to her his views of +the sins committed against hygiene, and his lessons sink into an appreciative +mind. When he encounters particularly hard cases she applies his principles +with unfailing logic, and is able to suggest helpful means of cure. The old doctor +is delightfully sagacious in demonstrating how the confirmed pie-eater marries the +tea inebriate, with the result in doughnut-devouring, dyspeptic, and consumptive +offspring. "What did they die of?" asked little Martha, in the village graveyard; +and her father answers solemnly, "Intemperance." So Martha declares +that she will be a "food doctor," and later on she helps her father in saving +several victims of strong drink. The book is one that should find hosts of +earnest readers, for its admonitions are sadly needed, not in the country alone, but +in the city, where, if better ideas of diet prevail, people have yet as a rule a long +way to go before they attain the path of wisdom. Meanwhile it remains true, as +Mrs. Campbell makes Dr Scarborough declare, that the cabbage soup and black +bread of the poorest French peasants are really better suited to the sustenance of +healthy life than the "messes" that pass for food in many parts of rural New +England.—<i>The Beacon.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p class="center"><i>Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt +of price, by the Publishers</i>,</p> + +<p class="center">LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295"></a>ROGER BERKELEY'S PROBATION.</h3> + +<p class="center">A Story.</p> + +<p class="center">BY HELEN CAMPBELL,</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Author of "Prisoners of Poverty," "Mrs. Herndon's Income," +"Miss Melinda's Opportunity," "The What-to-do Club," etc.</i></p> + +<p class="center">16mo, cloth, price, $1.00; paper, 50 cents.</p> + +<blockquote><p>This story is on the scale of a cabinet picture. It presents interesting +figures, natural situations, and warm colors. Written in a quiet key, it is +yet moving, and the letter from Bolton describing the fortunate sale of +Roger's painting of "The Factory Bell" sends a tear of sympathetic joy +to the reader's eye. Roger Berkeley was a young American art student in +Paris, called home by the mortal sickness of his mother, and detained at +home by the spendthriftness of his father and the embarrassment that had +overtaken the family affairs through the latter cause. A concealed mortgage +on the old homestead, the mysterious disappearance of a package of +bonds intended for Roger's student use, and the paralytic incapacity of the +father to give the information which his conscience prompted him to give, +have a share in the development of the story. Roger is obliged for the +time to abandon his art work, and takes a situation in a mill; and this trying +diversion from his purpose is his "probation." How he profits by +this loss is shown in the result. The mill-life gives Mrs. Campbell opportunity +to express herself characteristically in behalf of down-trodden +"labor." The whole story is simple, natural, sweet, and tender; and the +figures of Connie, poor little cripple, and Miss Medora Flint, angular and +snappish domestic, lend picturesqueness to its group of characters.—<i>Literary +World</i>.</p></blockquote> + +<p class="center"><i>Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of +price, by the Publishers</i>,</p> + +<p class="center">LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296"></a>MISS MELINDA'S OPPORTUNITY.</h3> + +<p class="center">A STORY.</p> + +<p class="center">BY HELEN CAMPBELL,</p> + +<p class="center">AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," +"PRISONERS OF POVERTY."</p> + +<p class="center">16mo. Cloth, price, $1.00; paper covers, 50 cents.</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Mrs. Helen Campbell has written 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity' with a +definite purpose in view, and this purpose will reveal itself to the eyes of all of its +philanthropic readers. The true aim of the story is to make life more real and +pleasant to the young girls who spend the greater part of the day toiling in the +busy stores of New York. Just as in the 'What-to-do Club' the social level of +village life was lifted several grades higher, so are the little friendly circles of shop-girls +made to enlarge and form clubs in 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity.'"—<i>Boston +Herald.</i></p> + +<p>"'Miss Melinda's Opportunity,' a story by Helen Campbell, is in a somewhat +lighter vein than are the earlier books of this clever author; but it is none +the less interesting and none the less realistic. The plot is unpretentious, and +deals with the simplest and most conventional of themes; but the character-drawing +is uncommonly strong, especially that of Miss Melinda, which is a remarkably +vigorous and interesting transcript from real life, and highly finished to +the slightest details. There is much quiet humor in the book, and it is handled +with skill and reserve. Those who have been attracted to Mrs. Campbell's other +works will welcome the latest of them with pleasure and satisfaction."—<i>Saturday +Gazette.</i></p> + +<p>"The best book that Helen Campbell has yet produced is her latest story, +'Miss Melinda's Opportunity,' which is especially strong in character-drawing, +and its life sketches are realistic and full of vigor, with a rich vein of humor running +through them. Miss Melinda is a dear lady of middle life, who has finally +found her opportunity to do a great amount of good with her ample pecuniary +means by helping those who have the disposition to help themselves. The story +of how some bright and energetic girls who had gone to New York to earn their +living put a portion of their earnings into a common treasury, and provided themselves +with a comfortable home and good fare for a very small sum per week, is +not only of lively interest, but furnishes hints for other girls in similar circumstances +that may prove of great value. An unpretentious but well-sustained plot +runs through the book, with a happy ending, in which Miss Melinda figures as +the angel that she is."—<i>Home Journal.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p class="center"><i>Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of +price, by the publishers</i>,</p> + +<p class="center">LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297"></a>THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB</h3> + +<p class="center">A STORY FOR GIRLS</p> + +<p class="center">BY HELEN CAMPBELL.</p> + +<p class="center">16mo. Cloth. Price $1.50.</p> + +<blockquote><p>"'The What-to-do Club' is an unpretending story. It introduces us to a +dozen or more village girls of varying ranks. One has had superior opportunities; +another exceptional training; two or three have been 'away to school;' +some are farmers' daughters; there is a teacher, two or three poor self-supporters,—in +fact, about such an assemblage as any town between New York and +Chicago might give us. But while there is a large enough company to furnish a +delightful coterie, there is absolutely no social life among them.... Town and +country need more improving, enthusiastic work to redeem them from barrenness +and indolence. Our girls need a chance to do independent work, to study practical +business, to fill their minds with other thoughts than the petty doings of +neighbors. A What-to-do Club is one step toward higher village life. It is one +step toward disinfecting a neighborhood of the poisonous gossip which floats like +a pestilence around localities which ought to furnish the most desirable homes in +our country.'"—<i>The Chautauquan.</i></p> + +<p>"'The What-to-do Club' is a delightful story for girls, especially for New +England girls, by Helen Campbell. The heroine of the story is Sybil Waite, the +beautiful, resolute, and devoted daughter of a broken-down but highly educated +Vermont lawyer. The story shows how much it is possible for a well-trained and +determined young woman to accomplish when she sets out to earn her own living, +or help others. Sybil begins with odd jobs of carpentering, and becomes an artist +so woodwork. She is first jeered at, then admired, respected, and finally loved +by a worthy man. The book closes pleasantly with John claiming Sybil as his +own. The labors of Sybil and her friends and of the New Jersey 'Busy Bodies,' +which are said to be actual facts, ought to encourage many young women to more +successful competition in the battles of life.'"—<i>Golden Rule.</i></p> + +<p>"In the form of a story, this book suggests ways in which young women +may make money at home, with practical directions for so doing. Stories with a +moral are not usually interesting, but this one is an exception to the rule. The +narrative is lively, the incidents probable and amusing, the characters well-drawn, +and the dialects various and characteristic. Mrs. Campbell is a natural storyteller, +and has the gift of making a tale interesting. Even the recipes for pickles +and preserves, evaporating fruits, raising poultry, and keeping bees, are made +poetic and invested with a certain ideal glamour, and we are thrilled and absorbed +by an array of figures of receipts and expenditures, equally with the changeful +incidents of flirtation, courtship, and matrimony. Fun and pathos, sense and +sentiment, are mingled throughout, and the combination has resulted in one of +the brightest stories of the season."—<i>Woman's Journal.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p class="center"><i>Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, by publishers</i>,</p> + +<p class="center">LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298"></a>MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME.</h3> + +<p class="center">A NOVEL.</p> + +<p class="center">BY HELEN CAMPBELL.</p> + +<p class="center">AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB."</p> + +<p class="center">One volume. 16mo. Cloth. $1.50.</p> + +<blockquote><p>"Confirmed novel-readers who have regarded fiction as created for amusement +and luxury alone, lay down this book with a new and serious purpose in life. The +social scientist reads it, and finds the solution of many a tangled problem; the +philanthropist finds in it direction and counsel. A novel written with a purpose, +of which never for an instant does the author lose sight, it is yet absorbing in its +interest. It reveals the narrow motives and the intrinsic selfishness of certain +grades of social life; the corruption of business methods; the 'false, fairy gold,' +of fashionable charities, and 'advanced' thought. Margaret Wentworth is a +typical New England girl, reflective, absorbed, full of passionate and repressed +intensity under a quiet and apparently cold exterior. The events that group +themselves about her life are the natural result of such a character brought into +contact with real life. The book cannot be too widely read."—<i>Boston Traveller.</i></p> + +<p>"If the 'What-to-do Club' was clever, this is decidedly more so. It is a powerful +story, and is evidently written in some degree, we cannot quite say how great +a degree, from fact. The personages of the story are very well drawn,—indeed, +'Amanda Briggs' is as good as anything American fiction has produced. We +fancy we could pencil on the margin the real names of at least half the characters. +It is a book for the wealthy to read that they may know something that is required +of them, because it does not ignore the difficulties in their way, and especially +does not overlook the differences which social standing puts between class and +class. It is a deeply interesting story considered as mere fiction, one of the best +which has lately appeared. We hope the authoress will go on in a path where +she has shown herself so capable."—<i>The Churchman.</i></p> + +<p>"In Mrs. Campbell's novel we have a work that is not to be judged by +ordinary standards. The story holds the reader's interest by its realistic pictures +of the local life around us, by its constant and progressive action, and by the +striking dramatic quality of scenes and incidents, described in a style clear, connected, +and harmonious. The novel-reader who is not taken up and made to +share the author's enthusiasm before getting half-way through the book must +possess a taste satiated and depraved by indulgence in exciting and sensational +fiction. The earnestness of the author's presentation of essentially great purposes +lends intensity to her narrative. Succeeding as she does in impressing us strongly +with her convictions, there is nothing of dogmatism in their preaching. But the +suggestiveness of every chapter is backed by pictures of real life."—<i>New York +World.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p class="center"><i>Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of +price, by the publishers</i>,</p> + +<p class="center">LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299"></a>PRISONERS OF POVERTY.</h3> + +<h3>WOMEN WAGE-WORKERS: THEIR TRADES AND THEIR LIVES.</h3> + +<p class="center">BY HELEN CAMPBELL,</p> + +<p class="center">AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," "MISS +MELINDA'S OPPORTUNITY," ETC.</p> + +<p class="center">16mo. Cloth. $1.00. Paper, 50 cents.</p> + +<blockquote><p>The author writes earnestly and warmly, but without prejudice, and her volume +is an eloquent plea for the amelioration of the evils with which she deals. In the +present importance into which the labor question generally has loomed, this volume +is a timely and valuable contribution to its literature, and merits wide reading +and careful thought.—<i>Saturday Evening Gazette.</i></p> + +<p>She has given us a most effective picture of the condition of New York working-women, +because she has brought to the study of the subject not only great care +but uncommon aptitude. She has made a close personal investigation, extending +apparently over a long time; she has had the penetration to search many queer +and dark corners which are not often thought of by similar explorers; and we +suspect that, unlike too many philanthropists, she has the faculty of winning confidence +and extracting the truth. She is sympathetic, but not a sentimentalist; +she appreciates exactness in facts and figures; she can see both sides of a question, +and she has abundant common sense.—<i>New York Tribune.</i></p> + +<p>Helen Campbell's "Prisoners of Poverty" is a striking example of the trite +phrase that "truth is stranger than fiction." It is a series of pictures of the lives +of women wage-workers in New York, based on the minutest personal inquiry and +observation. No work of fiction has ever presented more startling pictures, and, +indeed, if they occurred in a novel would at once be stamped as a figment of the +brain.... Altogether, Mrs. Campbell's book is a notable contribution to the labor +literature of the day, and will undoubtedly enlist sympathy for the cause of the oppressed +working-women whose stories do their own pleading.—<i>Springfield Union.</i></p> + +<p>It is good to see a new book by Helen Campbell. She has written several +for the cause of working-women, and now comes her latest and best work, called +"Prisoners of Poverty," on women wage-workers and their lives. It is compiled +from a series of papers written for the Sunday edition of a New York paper. The +author is well qualified to write on these topics, having personally investigated the +horrible situation of a vast army of working-women in New York,—a reflection of +the same conditions that exist in all large cities.</p> + +<p>It is glad tidings to hear that at last a voice is raised for the woman side of these +great labor questions that are seething below the surface calm of society. And it +is well that one so eloquent and sympathetic as Helen Campbell has spoken in behalf +of the victims and against the horrors, the injustices, and the crimes that have +forced them into conditions of living—if it can be called living—that are worse than +death. It is painful to read of these terrors that exist so near our doors, but none +the less necessary, for no person of mind or heart can thrust this knowledge aside. +It is the first step towards a solution of the labor complications, some of which +have assumed foul shapes and colossal proportions, through ignorance, weakness, +and wickedness.—<i>Hartford Times.</i></p></blockquote> + +<p class="center"><i>Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of +price, by the publishers</i>,</p> + +<p class="center">LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 995%;" /> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Easiest Way in Housekeeping and +Cooking, by Helen Campbell + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EASIEST WAY IN *** + +***** This file should be named 15360-h.htm or 15360-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/3/6/15360/ + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Easiest Way in Housekeeping and Cooking + Adapted to Domestic Use or Study in Classes + +Author: Helen Campbell + +Release Date: March 14, 2005 [EBook #15360] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EASIEST WAY IN *** + + + + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + + +THE +EASIEST WAY +IN +HOUSEKEEPING AND COOKING. + +Adapted to Domestic Use or Study in Classes +BY +HELEN CAMPBELL, + +AUTHOR OF "IN FOREIGN KITCHENS," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," "PRISONERS OF +POVERTY,", "SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH," +"WOMEN WAGE-EARNERS," ETC., ETC. + +"If it were done, when 'tis done, then 'twere well +It were done quickly." + +BOSTON: +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, +1903. + + + + +_Copyright, 1893,_ +BY ROBERTS BROTHERS. + +University Press: +JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A. + + +A Book for Agnes L.V.W. + +AND THE SOUTHERN GIRLS WHO STUDIED +WITH HER. + + + + +PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION. + + +The little book now revised and sent out with some slight additions, +remains substantially the same as when first issued in 1880. In the midst +of always increasing cookery-books, it has had a firm constituency of +friends, especially in the South, where its necessity was first made +plain. To enlarge it in any marked degree would violate the original plan, +for which the critic will please read the pages headed "Introductory," +where he or she will find full explanation of the growth and purpose of +the book. Whoever desires more receipts and more elaborate forms of +preparation must look for their sources in the bibliography at the end, +since their introduction in these pages would practically nullify the +title, proved true by years of testing at the hands of inexperienced +housekeepers, whose warm words have long been very pleasant to the author +of "The Easiest Way." + +NEW YORK, June, 1893. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +PART FIRST. + +PAGE + +INTRODUCTORY 5 + +CHAPTER. + + I. THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT 11 + II. THE HOUSE: ITS VENTILATION 19 + III. DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY 27 + IV. THE DAY'S WORK 35 + V. FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH 45 + VI. WASHING-DAY AND CLEANING IN GENERAL 54 + VII. THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION 68 +VIII. FOOD AND ITS LAWS 73 + IX. THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH 80 + X. THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD 90 + XI. THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD 100 + XII. CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES 110 + +PART SECOND. + +STOCK AND SEASONING 119 +SOUPS 122 +FISH 131 +MEATS 144 +POULTRY 161 +SAUCES AND SALADS 173 +EGGS AND BREAKFAST DISHES 180 +TEA, COFFEE, &C 193 +VEGETABLES 197 +BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES 208 +CAKE 221 +PASTRY AND PIES 232 +PUDDINGS, BOILED AND BAKED 238 +CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, &C 245 +CANNING AND PRESERVING 252 +PICKLES AND CATCHUPS 257 +CANDIES 259 +SICK-ROOM COOKERY 261 +HOUSEHOLD HINTS 270 +HINTS TO TEACHERS 280 +LESSONS FOR PRACTICE CLASS 282 +TWENTY TOPICS FOR CLASS USE 285 +LIST OF AUTHORITIES REFERRED TO 286 +EXAMINATION QUESTIONS 287 +BIBLIOGRAPHY 288 +INDEX 289 + + + + +_Introductory._ + + +That room or toleration for another "cook-book" can exist in the public +mind, will be denied at once, with all the vigor to be expected from a +people overrun with cook-books, and only anxious to relegate the majority +of them to their proper place as trunk-linings and kindling-material. The +minority, admirable in plan and execution, and elaborate enough to serve +all republican purposes, are surely sufficient for all the needs that have +been or may be. With Mrs. Cornelius and Miss Parloa, Marion Harland and +Mrs. Whitney, and innumerable other trustworthy authorities, for all +every-day purposes, and Mrs. Henderson for such festivity as we may at +times desire to make, another word is not only superfluous but absurd; in +fact, an outrage on common sense, not for one instant to be justified. + +Such was my own attitude and such my language hardly a year ago; yet that +short space of time has shown me, that, whether the public admit the +claim, or no, one more cook-book MUST BE. And this is why:-- + +A year of somewhat exceptional experience--that involved in building up +several cooking-schools in a new locality, demanding the most thorough +and minute system to assure their success and permanence--showed the +inadequacies of any existing hand-books, and the necessities to be met in +making a new one. Thus the present book has a twofold character, and +represents, not only the ordinary receipt or cook book, usable in any part +of the country and covering all ordinary household needs, but covers the +questions naturally arising in every lesson given, and ending in +statements of the most necessary points in household science. There are +large books designed to cover this ground, and excellent of their kind, +but so cumbrous in form and execution as to daunt the average reader. + +Miss Corson's "Cooking-School Text-Book" commended itself for its +admirable plainness and fullness of detail, but was almost at once found +impracticable as a system for my purposes; her dishes usually requiring +the choicest that the best city market could afford, and taking for +granted also a taste for French flavorings not yet common outside of our +large cities, and to no great extent within them. To utilize to the best +advantage the food-resources of whatever spot one might be in, to give +information on a hundred points suggested by each lesson, yet having no +place in the ordinary cook-book, in short, _to teach household science as +well as cooking_, became my year's work; and it is that year's work which +is incorporated in these pages. Beginning with Raleigh, N.C., and lessons +given in a large school there, it included also a seven-months' course at +the Deaf and Dumb Institute, and regular classes for ladies. Straight +through, in those classes, it became my business to say, "This is no +infallible system, warranted to give the whole art of cooking in twelve +lessons. All I can do for you is to lay down clearly certain fixed +principles; to show you how to economize thoroughly, yet get a better +result than by the expenditure of perhaps much more material. Before our +course ends, you will have had performed before you every essential +operation in cooking, and will know, so far as I can make you know, +prices, qualities, constituents, and physiological effects of every type +of food. Beyond this, the work lies in your own hands." + +Armed with manuals,--American, English, French,--bent upon systematizing +the subject, yet finding none entirely adequate, gradually, and in spite +of all effort to the contrary, I found that my teaching rested more and +more on my own personal experience as a housekeeper, both at the South and +at the North. The mass of material in many books was found confusing and +paralyzing, choice seeming impossible when a dozen methods were given. And +for the large proportion of receipts, directions were so vague that only a +trained housekeeper could be certain of the order of combination, or +results when combined. So from the crowd of authorities was gradually +eliminated a foundation for work; and on that foundation has risen a +structure designed to serve two ends. + +For the young housekeeper, beginning with little or no knowledge, but +eager to do and know the right thing, not alone for kitchen but for the +home as a whole, the list of topics touched upon in Part I. became +essential. That much of the knowledge compressed there should have been +gained at home, is at once admitted: but, unfortunately, few homes give +it; and the aim has been to cover the ground concisely yet clearly and +attractively. As to Part II., it does not profess to be the whole art of +cooking, but merely the line of receipts most needed in the average +family, North or South. Each receipt has been tested personally by the +writer, often many times; and each one is given so minutely that failure +is well-nigh impossible, if the directions are intelligently followed. A +few distinctively Southern dishes are included, but the ground covered has +drawn from all sources; the series of excellent and elaborate manuals by +well-known authors having contributed here and there, but the majority of +rules being, as before said, the result of years of personal experiment, +or drawn from old family receipt-books. + +To facilitate the work of the teacher, however, a scheme of lessons is +given at the end, covering all that can well be taught in the ordinary +school year: each lesson is given with page references to the receipts +employed, while a shorter and more compact course is outlined for the use +of classes for ladies. A list of topics is also given for school use; it +having been found to add greatly to the interest of the course to write +each week the story of some ingredient in the lesson for the day, while a +set of questions, to be used at periodical intervals, fixes details, and +insures a certain knowledge of what progress has been made. The course +covers the chemistry and physiology of food, as well as an outline of +household science in general, and may serve as a text-book wherever such +study is introduced. It is hoped that this presentation of the subject +will lessen the labor necessary in this new field, though no text-book can +fully take the place of personal enthusiastic work. + +That training is imperatively demanded for rich and poor alike, is now +unquestioned; but the mere taking a course of cooking-lessons alone does +not meet the need in full. The present book aims to fill a place hitherto +unoccupied; and precisely the line of work indicated there has been found +the only practical method in a year's successful organization of schools +at various points. Whether used at home with growing girls, in +cooking-clubs, in schools, or in private classes, it is hoped that the +system outlined and the authorities referred to will stimulate interest, +and open up a new field of work to many who have doubted if the food +question had any interest beyond the day's need, and who have failed to +see that nothing ministering to the best life and thought of this +wonderful human body could ever by any chance be rightfully called "common +or unclean." We are but on the threshold of the new science. If these +pages make the way even a little plainer, the author will have +accomplished her full purpose, and will know that in spite of appearances +there is "room for one more." + +HELEN CAMPBELL. + + + + +_THE EASIEST WAY._ + + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE HOUSE: SITUATION AND ARRANGEMENT. + + +From the beginning it must be understood that what is written here applies +chiefly to country homes. The general principles laid down are applicable +with equal force to town or city life; but as a people we dwell mostly in +the country, and, even in villages or small towns, each house is likely to +have its own portion of land about it, and to look toward all points of +the compass, instead of being limited to two, as in city blocks. Of the +comparative advantages or disadvantages of city or country life, there is +no need to speak here. Our business is simply to give such details as may +apply to both, but chiefly to the owners of moderate incomes, or salaried +people, whose expenditure must always be somewhat limited. With the +exterior of such homes, women at present have very little to do; and the +interior also is thus far much in the hands of architects, who decide for +general prettiness of effect, rather than for the most convenient +arrangement of space. The young bride, planning a home, is resolved upon a +bay-window, as large a parlor as possible, and an effective spare-room; +but, having in most cases no personal knowledge of work, does not +consider whether kitchen and dining-room are conveniently planned, or not, +and whether the arrangement of pantries and closets is such that both +rooms must be crossed a hundred times a day, when a little foresight might +have reduced the number certainly by one-half, perhaps more. + +Inconvenience can, in most cases, be remedied; but unhealthfulness or +unwholesomeness of location, very seldom: and therefore, in the beginning, +I write that ignorance is small excuse for error, and that every one able +to read at all, or use common-sense about any detail of life, is able to +form a judgment of what is healthful or unhealthful. If no books are at +hand, consult the best physician near, and have his verdict as to the +character of the spot in which more or less of your life in this world +will be spent, and which has the power to affect not only your mental and +bodily health, but that of your children. Because your fathers and mothers +have been neglectful of these considerations, is no reason why you should +continue in ignorance; and the first duty in making a home is to consider +earnestly and intelligently certain points. + +Four essentials are to be thought of in the choice of any home; and their +neglect, and the ignorance which is the foundation of this neglect, are +the secret of not only the chronic ill-health supposed to be a necessity +of the American organization, but of many of the epidemics and mysterious +diseases classed under the head of "visitations of Providence." + +These essentials are: a wholesome situation, good ventilation, good +drainage, and a dry cellar. Rich or poor, high or low, if one of these be +disregarded, the result will tell, either on your own health or on that of +your family. Whether palace or hut, brown-stone front or simple wooden +cottage, the law is the same. As a rule, the ordinary town or village is +built upon low land, because it is easier to obtain a water-supply from +wells and springs. In such a case, even where the climate itself may be +tolerably healthy, the drainage from the hills at hand, or the nearness of +swamps and marshes produced by the same cause, makes a dry cellar an +impossibility; and this shut-in and poisonous moisture makes malaria +inevitable. The dwellers on low lands are the pill and patent-medicine +takers; and no civilized country swallows the amount of tonics and bitters +consumed by our own. + +If possible, let the house be on a hill, or at least a rise of ground, to +secure the thorough draining-away of all sewage and waste water. Even in a +swampy and malarious country, such a location will insure all the health +possible in such a region, if the other conditions mentioned are +faithfully attended to. + +Let the living-rooms and bedrooms, as far as may be, have full sunshine +during a part of each day; and reserve the north side of the house for +store-rooms, refrigerator, and the rooms seldom occupied. Do not allow +trees to stand so near as to shut out air or sunlight; but see that, while +near enough for beauty and for shade, they do not constantly shed +moisture, and make twilight in your rooms even at mid-day. Sunshine is the +enemy of disease, which thrives in darkness and shadow. Consumption or +scrofulous disease is almost inevitable in the house shut in by trees, +whose blinds are tightly closed lest some ray of sunshine fade the +carpets; and over and over again it has been proved that the first +conditions of health are, abundant supply of pure air, and free admission +of sunlight to every nook and cranny. Even with imperfect or improper +food, these two allies are strong enough to carry the day for health; and, +when the three work in harmony, the best life is at once assured. + +If the house must be on the lowlands, seek a sandy or gravelly soil; and +avoid those built over clay beds, or even where clay bottom is found under +the sand or loam. In the last case, if drainage is understood, pipes may +be so arranged as to secure against any standing water; but, unless this +is done, the clammy moisture on walls, and the chill in every closed room, +are sufficient indication that the conditions for disease are ripe or +ripening. The only course in such case, after seeking proper drainage, is, +first, abundant sunlight, and, second, open fires, which will act not only +as drying agents, but as ventilators and purifiers. Aim to have at least +one open fire in the house. It is not an extravagance, but an essential, +and economy may better come in at some other place. + +Having settled these points as far as possible,--the question of +water-supply and ventilation being left to another chapter,--it is to be +remembered that the house is not merely a place to be made pleasant for +one's friends. They form only a small portion of the daily life; and the +first consideration should be: Is it so planned that the necessary and +inevitable work of the day can be accomplished with the least expenditure +of force? North and South, the kitchen is often the least-considered room +of the house; and, so long as the necessary meals are served up, the +difficulties that may have hedged about such serving are never counted. At +the South it is doubly so, and necessarily; old conditions having made +much consideration of convenience for servants an unthought-of thing. +With a throng of unemployed women and children, the question could only +be, how to secure some small portion of work for each one; and in such +case, the greater the inconveniences, the more chance for such employment. +Water could well be half a mile distant, when a dozen little darkies had +nothing to do but form a running line between house and spring; and so +with wood and kindling and all household necessities. + +To-day, with the old service done away with once for all, and with a set +of new conditions governing every form of work, the Southern woman faces +difficulties to which her Northern or Western sister is an utter stranger; +faces them often with a patience and dignity beyond all praise, but still +with a hopelessness of better things, the necessary fruit of ignorance. +Old things are passed away, and the new order is yet too unfamiliar for +rules to have formulated and settled in any routine of action. While there +is, at the North, more intuitive and inherited sense of how things should +be done, there is on many points an almost equal ignorance, more +especially among the cultivated classes, who, more than at any period of +woman's history, are at the mercy of their servants. Every science is +learned but domestic science. The schools ignore it; and, indeed, in the +rush toward an early graduation, there is small room for it. + +"She can learn at home," say the mothers. "She will take to it when her +time comes, just as a duck takes to water," add the fathers; and the +matter is thus dismissed as settled. + +In the mean time the "she" referred to--the average daughter of average +parents in both city and country--neither "learns at home," nor "takes to +it naturally," save in exceptional cases; and the reason for this is +found in the love, which, like much of the love given, is really only a +higher form of selfishness. The busy mother of a family, who has fought +her own way to fairly successful administration, longs to spare her +daughters the petty cares, the anxious planning, that have helped to eat +out her own youth; and so the young girl enters married life with a vague +sense of the dinners that must be, and a general belief that somehow or +other they come of themselves. And so with all household labor. That to +perform it successfully and skillfully, demands not only training, but the +best powers one can bring to bear upon its accomplishment, seldom enters +the mind; and the student, who has ended her course of chemistry or +physiology enthusiastically, never dreams of applying either to every-day +life. + +This may seem a digression; and yet, in the very outset, it is necessary +to place this work upon the right footing, and to impress with all +possible earnestness the fact, that Household Science holds every other +science in tribute, and that only that home which starts with this +admission and builds upon the best foundation the best that thought can +furnish, has any right to the name of "home." The swarms of drunkards, of +idiots, of insane, of deaf and dumb, owe their existence to an ignorance +of the laws of right living, which is simply criminal, and for which we +must be judged; and no word can be too earnest, which opens the young +girl's eyes to the fact that in her hands lie not alone her own or her +husband's future, but the future of the nation. It is hard to see beyond +one's own circle; but if light is sought for, and there is steady resolve +and patient effort to do the best for one's individual self, and those +nearest one, it will be found that the shadow passes, and that progress is +an appreciable thing. + +Begin in your own home. Study to make it not only beautiful, but perfectly +appointed. If your own hands must do the work, learn every method of +economizing time and strength. If you have servants, whether one or more, +let the same laws rule. It is not easy, I admit; no good thing is: but +there is infinite reward for every effort. Let no failure discourage, but +let each one be only a fresh round in the ladder all must climb who would +do worthy work; and be sure that the end will reward all pain, all +self-sacrifice, and make you truly the mistresses of the home for which +every woman naturally and rightfully hopes, but which is never truly hers +till every shade of detail in its administration has been mastered. + +The house, then, is the first element of home to be considered and +studied; and we have settled certain points as to location and +arrangement. This is no hand-book of plans for houses, that ground being +thoroughly covered in various books,--the titles of two or three of which +are given in a list of reference-books at the end. But, whether you build +or buy, see to it that your kitchens and working-rooms are well lighted, +well aired, and of good size, and that in the arrangement of the kitchen +especially, the utmost convenience becomes the chief end. Let sink, +pantries, stove or range, and working-space for all operations in cooking, +be close at hand. The difference between a pantry at the opposite end of +the room, and one opening close to the sink, for instance, may seem a +small matter; but when it comes to walking across the room with every dish +that is washed, the steps soon count up as miles, and in making even a +loaf of bread, the time and strength expended in gathering materials +together would go far toward the thorough kneading, which, when added to +the previous exertion, makes the whole operation, which might have been +only a pleasure, a burden and an annoyance. + +Let, then, stove, fuel, water, work-table, and pantries be at the same end +of the kitchen, and within a few steps of one another, and it will be +found that while the general labor of each day must always be the same, +the time required for its accomplishment will be far less, under these +favorable conditions. The successful workman,--the type-setter, the +cabinet-maker, or carpenter,--whose art lies in the rapid combination of +materials, arranges his materials and tools so as to be used with the +fewest possible movements; and the difference between a skilled and +unskilled workman is not so much the rate of speed in movement, as in the +ability to make each motion tell. The kitchen is the housekeeper's +workshop; and, in the chapter on _House-work_, some further details as to +methods and arrangements will be given. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE HOUSE: VENTILATION. + + +Having settled the four requisites in any home, and suggested the points +to be made in regard to the first one,--that of wholesome +situation,--_Ventilation_ is next in order. Theoretically, each one of us +who has studied either natural philosophy or physiology will state at +once, with more or less glibness, the facts as to the atmosphere, its +qualities, and the amount of air needed by each individual; practically +nullifying such statement by going to bed in a room with closed windows +and doors, or sitting calmly in church or public hall, breathing over and +over again the air ejected from the lungs all about,--practice as cleanly +and wholesome as partaking of food chewed over and over by an +indiscriminate crowd. + +Now, as to find the Reason Why of all statements and operations is our +first consideration, the familiar ground must be traversed again, and the +properties and constituents of air find place here. It is an old story, +and, like other old stories accepted by the multitude, has become almost +of no effect; passive acceptance mentally, absolute rejection physically, +seeming to be the portion of much of the gospel of health. "Cleanliness is +next to godliness," is almost an axiom. I am disposed to amend it, and +assert that cleanliness _is_ godliness, or a form of godliness. At any +rate, the man or woman who demands cleanliness without and within, this +cleanliness meaning pure air, pure water, pure food, must of necessity +have a stronger body and therefore a clearer mind (both being nearer what +God meant for body and mind) than the one who has cared little for law, +and so lived oblivious to the consequences of breaking it. + +Ventilation, seemingly the simplest and easiest of things to be +accomplished, has thus far apparently defied architects and engineers. +Congress has spent a million in trying to give fresh air to the Senate and +Representative Chambers, and will probably spend another before that is +accomplished. In capitols, churches, and public halls of every sort, the +same story holds. Women faint, men in courts of justice fall in apoplectic +fits, or become victims of new and mysterious diseases, simply from the +want of pure air. A constant slow murder goes on in nurseries and +schoolrooms; and white-faced, nerveless children grow into white-faced and +nerveless men and women, as the price of this violated law. + +What is this air, seemingly so hard to secure, so hard to hold as part of +our daily life, without which we can not live, and which we yet +contentedly poison nine times out of ten? + +Oxygen, nitrogen, carbonic acid, and watery vapor; the last two being a +small portion of the bulk, oxygen and nitrogen making up four-fifths. +Small as the proportion of oxygen seems, an increase of but one-fifth more +would be destruction. It is the life-giver, but undiluted would be the +life-destroyer; and the three-fifths of nitrogen act as its diluent. No +other element possesses the same power. Fires and light-giving combustion +could not exist an instant without oxygen. Its office seems that of +universal destruction. By its action decay begins in meat or vegetables +and fruits; and it is for this reason, that, to preserve them, all oxygen +must be driven out by bringing them to the boiling point, and sealing them +up in jars to which no air can find entrance. With only undiluted oxygen +to breathe, the tissues would dry and shrivel, fuel burn with a fury none +could withstand, and every operation of nature be conducted with such +energy as soon to exhaust and destroy all power. But "a mixture of the +fiery oxygen and inert nitrogen gives us the golden mean. The oxygen now +quietly burns the fuel in our stoves, and keeps us warm; combines with the +oil in our lamps, and gives us light; corrodes our bodies, and gives us +strength; cleanses the air, and keeps it fresh and invigorating; sweetens +foul water, and makes it wholesome; works all around us and within us a +constant miracle, yet with such delicacy and quietness, we never perceive +or think of it, until we see it with the eye of science." + +Food and air are the two means by which bodies live. In the full-grown +man, whose weight will average about one hundred and fifty-four pounds, +one hundred and eleven pounds is oxygen drawn from the air we breathe. +Only when food has been dissolved in the stomach, absorbed at last into +the blood, and by means of circulation brought into contact with the +oxygen of the air taken into our lungs, can it begin to really feed and +nourish the body; so that the lungs may, after all, be regarded as the +true stomach, the other being not much more than the food-receptacle. + +Take these lungs, made up within of branching tubes, these in turn formed +by myriads of air-cells, and each air-cell owning its network of minute +cells called _capillaries_. To every air-cell is given a blood-vessel +bringing blood from the heart, which finds its way through every capillary +till it reaches another blood-vessel that carries it back to the heart. It +leaves the heart charged with carbonic acid and watery vapor. It returns, +if pure air has met it in the lung, with all corruption destroyed, a +dancing particle of life. But to be life, and not slow death, thirty-three +hogsheads of air must pass daily into the lungs, and twenty-eight pounds +of blood journey from heart to lungs and back again three times in each +hour. It rests wholly with ourselves, whether this wonderful tide, ebbing +and flowing with every breath, shall exchange its poisonous and clogging +carbonic acid and watery vapor for life-giving oxygen, or retain it to +weigh down and debilitate every nerve in the body. + +With every thought and feeling some actual particles of brain and nerve +are dissolved, and sent floating on this crimson current. With every +motion of a muscle, whether great or small, with every process that can +take place in the body, this ceaseless change of particles is going on. +Wherever oxygen finds admission, its union with carbon to form carbonic +acid, or with hydrogen to form water, produces heat. The waste of the body +is literally burned up by the oxygen; and it is this burning which means +the warmth of a living body, its absence giving the stony cold of the +dead. "Who shall deliver me from the body of this death?" may well be the +literal question for each day of our lives; and "pure air" alone can +secure genuine life. Breathing bad air reduces all the processes of the +body, lessens vitality; and thus, one in poor health will suffer more from +bad air than those who have become thoroughly accustomed to it. If +weakened vitality were the only result, it would not be so serious a +matter; but scrofula is soon fixed upon such constitutions, beginning with +its milder form as in consumption, but ending in the absolute rottenness +of bone and tissue. The invalid may live in the healthiest climate, pass +hours each day in the open air, and yet undo or neutralize much of the +good of this by sleeping in an unventilated room at night. Diseased +joints, horrible affections of the eye or ear or skin, are inevitable. The +greatest living authorities on lung-diseases pronounce deficient +ventilation the chief cause of consumption, and more fatal _than all other +causes put together_; and, even where food and clothing are both +unwholesome, free air has been found able to counteract their effect. + +In the country the balance ordained in nature has its compensating power. +The poisonous carbonic acid thrown off by lungs and body is absorbed by +vegetation whose food it is, and which in every waving leaf or blade of +grass returns to us the oxygen we demand. Shut in a close room all day, or +even in a tolerably ventilated one, there may be no sense of closeness; +but go to the open air for a moment, and, if the nose has not been +hopelessly ruined by want of education, it will tell unerringly the degree +of oxygen wanting and required. + +It is ordinarily supposed that carbonic-acid gas, being heavier, sinks to +the bottom of the room, and that thus trundle-beds, for instance, are +especially unwholesome. This would be so, were the gas pure. As a matter +of fact, however, being warmed in the body, and thus made lighter, it +rises into the common air, so that usually more will be found at the top +than at the bottom of a room. This gas is, however, not the sole cause of +disease. From both lungs and skin, matter is constantly thrown off, and +floats in the form of germs in all impure air. To a person who by long +confinement to close rooms has become so sensitive that any sudden current +of air gives a cold, ventilation seems an impossibility and a cruelty; and +the problem becomes: How to admit pure air throughout the house, and yet +avoid currents and draughts. "Night-air" is even more dreaded than the +confined air of rooms; yet, as the only air to be had at night must come +under this head, it is safer to breathe that than to settle upon carbonic +acid as lung-food for a third, at least, of the twenty-four hours. As +fires feed on oxygen, it follows that every lamp, every gas-jet, every +furnace, are so many appetites satisfying themselves upon our store of +food, and that, if they are burning about us, a double amount of oxygen +must be furnished. + +The only mode of ventilation that will work always and without fail is +that of a warm-air flue, the upward heated air-current of which draws off +the foul gases from the room: this, supplemented by an opening on the +opposite side of the room for the admission of pure air, will accomplish +the desired end. An open fire-place will secure this, provided the flue is +kept warm by heat from the kitchen fire, or some other during seasons when +the fire-place is not used. But perhaps the simplest way is to have ample +openings (from eight to twelve inches square) at the top and bottom of +each room, opening into the chimney-flue: then, even if a stove is used, +the flue can be kept heated by the extension of the stove-pipe some +distance up within the chimney, and the ascending current of hot air will +draw the foul air from the room into the flue. This, as before stated, +must be completed by a fresh-air opening into the room on another side: if +no other can be had, the top of the window may be lowered a little. The +stove-pipe _extension_ within the chimney would better be of cast-iron, as +more durable than the sheet-iron. When no fire is used in the +sleeping-rooms, the chimney-flue must be heated by pipes from the kitchen +or other fires; and, with the provision for _fresh_ air never forgotten, +this simple device will invariably secure pure and well-oxygenated air for +breathing. "Fussy and expensive," may be the comment; but the expense is +less than the average yearly doctor's bill, and the fussiness nothing that +your own hands must engage in. Only let heads take it in, and see to it +that no neglect is allowed. In a southern climate doors and windows are of +necessity open more constantly; but at night they are closed from the fear +referred to, that night-air holds some subtle poison. It is merely colder, +and perhaps moister, than day-air; and an extra bed-covering neutralizes +this danger. Once accustomed to sleeping with open windows, you will find +that taking cold is impossible. + +If custom, or great delicacy of organization, makes unusual sensitiveness +to cold, have a board the precise width of the window, and five or six +inches high. Then raise the lower sash, putting this under it; and an +upward current of air will be created, which will in great part purify the +room. + +Beyond every thing, watch that no causes producing foul air are allowed to +exist for a moment. A vase of neglected flowers will poison the air of a +whole room. In the area or cellar, a decaying head of cabbage, a basket of +refuse vegetables, a forgotten barrel of pork or beef brine, a neglected +garbage pail or box, are all premiums upon disease. Let air and sunlight +search every corner of the house. Insist upon as nearly spotless +_cleanliness_ as may be, and the second prime necessity of the home is +secure. + +When, as it is written, man was formed from the dust of the earth, the +Lord God "breathed into his nostrils the breath of life; and man became a +_living soul_." + +Shut off that breath of life, or poison it as it is daily poisoned, and +not only body, but soul, dies. The child, fresh from its long day out of +doors, goes to bed quiet, content, and happy. It wakes up a little demon, +bristling with crossness, and determined not to "be good." The breath of +life carefully shut out, death has begun its work, and you are +responsible. And the same criminal blunder causes not only the child's +suffering, but also the weakness which makes many a delicate woman +complain that it "takes till noon to get her strength up." + +Open the windows. Take the portion to which you were born, and life will +grow easier. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +DRAINAGE AND WATER-SUPPLY. + + +Air and sunshine having been assured for all parts of the house in daily +use, the next question must be an unfailing and full supply of pure water. +"Dig a well, or build near a spring," say the builders; and the well is +dug, or the spring tapped, under the general supposition that water is +clean and pure, simply because it is water, while the surroundings of +either spring or well are unnoticed. Drainage is so comparatively new a +question, that only the most enlightened portions of the country consider +its bearings; and the large majority of people all over the land not only +do not know the interests involved in it, but would resent as a personal +slight any hint that their own water-supply might be affected by deficient +drainage. + +Pure water is simply oxygen and hydrogen, eight-ninths being oxygen and +but one-ninth hydrogen; the latter gas, if pure, having, like oxygen, +neither taste nor smell. Rain-water is the purest type; and, if collected +in open vessels as it falls, is necessarily free from any possible taint +(except at the very first of a rain, when it washes down considerable +floating impurity from the atmosphere, especially in cities). This mode +being for obvious reasons impracticable, cisterns are made, and rain +conducted to them through pipes leading from the roof. The water has thus +taken up all the dust, soot, and other impurities found upon the roof, +and, unless filtered, can not be considered desirable drink. The best +cistern will include a filter of some sort, and this is accomplished in +two ways. Either the cistern is divided into two parts, the water being +received on one side, and allowed to slowly filter through a wall of +porous brick, regarded by many as an amply sufficient means of +purification; or a more elaborate form is used, the division in such case +being into upper and under compartments, the upper one containing the +usual filter of iron, charcoal, sponge, and gravel or sand. If this water +has a free current of air passing over it, it will acquire more sparkle +and character; but as a rule it is flat and unpleasant in flavor, being +entirely destitute of the earthy salts and the carbonic-acid gas to be +found in the best river or spring water. + +Distilled water comes next in purity, and is, in fact, identical in +character with rain-water; the latter being merely steam, condensed into +rain in the great alembic of the sky. But both have the curious property +of taking up and dissolving _lead_ wherever they find it; and it is for +this reason that lead pipes as leaders from or to cisterns should _never_ +be allowed, unless lined with some other metal. + +The most refreshing as well as most wholesome water is river or spring +water, perfectly filtered so that no possible impurity can remain. It is +then soft and clear; has sufficient air and carbonic acid to make it +refreshing, and enough earthy salts to prevent its taking up lead, and so +becoming poisonous. River-water for daily use of course requires a system +of pipes, and in small places is practically unavailable; so that wells +are likely, in such case, to be the chief source of supply. Such water +will of course be spring-water, with the characteristics of the soil +through which it rises. If the well be shallow, and fed by surface +springs, all impurities of the soil will be found in it; and thus to _dig +deep_ becomes essential, for many reasons. Dr. Parker of England, in some +papers on practical hygiene, gives a clear and easily understood statement +of some causes affecting the purity of well-water. + +"A well drains an extent of ground around it, in the shape of an inverted +cone, which is in proportion to its own depth and the looseness of the +soil. In very loose soils a well of sixty or eighty feet will drain a +large area, perhaps as much as two hundred feet in diameter, or even more; +but the exact amount is not, as far as I know, precisely determined. + +"Certain trades pour their refuse water into rivers, gas-works; +slaughter-houses; tripe-houses; size, horn, and isinglass manufactories; +wash-houses, starch-works, and calico-printers, and many others. In houses +it is astonishing how many instances occur of the water of butts, +cisterns, and tanks, getting contaminated by leaking of pipes and other +causes, such as the passage of sewer-gas through overflow-pipes, &c. + +"As there is now no doubt that typhoid-fever, cholera, and dysentery may +be caused by water rendered impure by the evacuations passed in those +diseases, and as simple diarrhoea seems also to be largely caused by +animal organic [matter in] suspension or solution, it is evident how +necessary it is to be quick-sighted in regard to the possible impurity of +water from incidental causes of this kind. Therefore all tanks and +cisterns should be inspected regularly, and any accidental source of +impurity must be looked out for. Wells should be covered; a good coping +put round to prevent substances being washed down; the distances from +cess-pools and dung-heaps should be carefully noted; no sewer should be +allowed to pass near a well. The same precautions should be taken with +springs. In the case of rivers, we must consider if contamination can +result from the discharge of fecal matters, trade refuse, &c." + +Now, suppose all such precautions have been disregarded. Suppose, as is +most usual, that the well is dug near the kitchen-door,--probably between +kitchen and barn; the drain, if there is a drain from the kitchen, pouring +out the dirty water of wash-day and all other days, which sinks through +the ground, and acts as feeder to the waiting well. Suppose the +manure-pile in the barnyard also sends down its supply, and the privies +contribute theirs. The water may be unchanged in color or odor: yet none +the less you are drinking a foul and horrible poison; slow in action, it +is true, but making you ready for diphtheria and typhoid-fever, and +consumption, and other nameless ills. It is so easy to doubt or set aside +all this, that I give one case as illustration and warning of all the +evils enumerated above. + +The State Board of Health for Massachusetts has long busied itself with +researches on all these points, and the case mentioned is in one of their +reports. The house described is one in Hadley, built by a clergyman. "It +was provided with an open well and sink-drain, with its deposit-box in +close proximity thereto, affording facility to discharge its gases in the +well as the most convenient place. The cellar was used, as country cellars +commonly are, for the storage of provisions of every kind, and the +windows were never opened. The only escape for the soil-moisture and +ground-air, except that which was absorbed by the drinking-water, was +through the crevices of the floors into the rooms above. After a few +months' residence in the house, the clergyman's wife died of fever. He +soon married again; and the second wife also died of fever, within a year +from the time of marriage. His children were sick. He occupied the house +about two years. The wife of his successor was soon taken ill, and barely +escaped with her life. A physician then took the house. He married, and +his wife soon after died of fever. Another physician took the house, and +within a few months came near dying of erysipelas. He deserved it. The +house, meanwhile, received no treatment; the doctors, according to their +usual wont, even in their own families, were satisfied to deal with the +consequences, and leave the causes to do their worst. + +"Next after the doctors, a school-teacher took the house, and made a few +changes, for convenience apparently, for substantially it remained the +same; for he, too, escaped as by the skin of his teeth. Finally, after the +foreclosure of many lives, the sickness and fatality of the property +became so marked, that it became unsalable. When at last sold, every sort +of prediction was made as to the risk of occupancy; but, by a thorough +attention to sanitary conditions, no such risks have been encountered." + +These deaths were suicides,--ignorant ones, it is true, not one stopping +to think what causes lay at the bottom of such "mysterious dispensations." +But, just as surely as corn gives a crop from the seed sown, so surely +typhoid fever and diphtheria follow bad drainage or the drinking of +impure water. + +Boiling such water destroys the germs of disease; but neither boiled water +nor boiled germs are pleasant drinking. + +If means are too narrow to admit of the expense attendant upon making a +drain long enough and tight enough to carry off all refuse water to a safe +distance from the house, then adopt another plan. Remember that to throw +dirty water on the ground near a well, is as deliberate poisoning as if +you threw arsenic in the well itself. Have a large tub or barrel standing +on a wheelbarrow or small hand-cart; and into this pour every drop of +dirty water, wheeling it away to orchard or garden, where it will enrich +the soil, which will transform it, and return it to you, not in disease, +but in fruit and vegetables. Also see that the well has a roof, and, if +possible, a lattice-work about it, that all leaves and flying dirt may be +prevented from falling into it. You do not want your water to be a +solution or tincture of dead leaves, dead frogs and insects, or stray mice +or kittens; and this it must be, now and again, if not covered +sufficiently to exclude such chances, _though not the air_, which must be +given free access to it. + +As to hard and soft water, the latter is always most desirable, as soft +water extracts the flavor of tea and coffee far better than hard, and is +also better for all cooking and washing purposes. Hard water results from +a superabundance of lime; and this lime "cakes" on the bottom of +tea-kettles, curdles soap, and clings to every thing boiled in it, from +clothes to meat and vegetables (which last are always more tender if +cooked in soft water; though, if it be too soft, they are apt to boil to a +porridge). + +Washing-soda or borax will soften hard water, and make it better for all +household purposes; but rain-water, even if not desired for drinking, will +be found better than any softened by artificial means. + +If, as in many towns, the supply of drinking-water for many families comes +from the town pump or pumps, the same principles must be attended to. A +well in Golden Square, London, was noted for its especially bright and +sparkling water, so much so that people sent from long distances to secure +it. The cholera broke out; and all who drank from the well became its +victims, though the square seemed a healthy location. Analysis showed it +to be not only alive with a species of fungus growing in it, but also +weighted with dead organic matter from a neighboring churchyard. Every +tissue in the living bodies which had absorbed this water was inflamed, +and ready to yield to the first epidemic; and cholera was the natural +outcome of such conditions. Knowledge should guard against any such +chances. See to it that no open cesspool poisons either air or water about +your home. Sunk at a proper distance from the house, and connected with it +by a drain so tightly put together that none of the contents can escape, +the cesspool, which may be an elaborate, brick-lined cistern, or merely an +old hogshead thoroughly tarred within and without, and sunk in the ground, +becomes one of the most important adjuncts of a good garden. If, in +addition to this, a pile of all the decaying vegetable matter--leaves, +weeds, &c.--is made, all dead cats, hens, or puppies finding burial there; +and the whole closely covered with earth to absorb, as fresh earth has the +power to do, all foul gases and vapors; and if at intervals the pile is +wet through with liquid from the cesspool, the richest form of fertilizer +is secured, and one of the great agricultural duties of man +fulfilled,--that of "returning to the soil, as fertilizers, all the salts +produced by the combustion of food in the human body." + +Where the water-supply is brought into the house from a common reservoir, +much the same rules hold good. We can not of course control the character +of the general supply, but we can see to it that our own water and waste +pipes are in the most perfect condition; that traps and all the best +methods of preventing the escape of sewer-gas into our houses are +provided; that stationary or "set" basins have the plug always in them; +and that every water-closet is provided with a ventilating pipe +sufficiently high and long to insure the full escape of all gases from the +house. Simple disinfectants used from time to time--chloride of lime and +carbolic acid--will be found useful, and the most absolute cleanliness is +at all times the first essential. + +With air and water at their best, the home has a reasonable chance of +escaping many of the sorrows brought by disease or uncertain health; and, +the power to work to the best advantage being secured, we may now pass to +the forms that work must take. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE DAY'S WORK. + + +It is safe to say that no class of women in the civilized world is +subjected to such incessant trials of temper, and such temptation to be +fretful, as the American housekeeper. The reasons for this state of things +are legion; and, if in the beginning we take ground from which the whole +field may be clearly surveyed, we may be able to secure a better +understanding of what housekeeping means, and to guard against some of the +dangers accompanying it. + +The first difficulty lies in taking for granted that successful +housekeeping is as much an instinct as that which leads the young bird to +nest-building, and that no specific training is required. The man who +undertakes a business, passes always through some form of apprenticeship, +and must know every detail involved in the management; but to the large +proportion of women, housekeeping is a combination of accidental forces +from whose working it is hoped breakfasts and dinners and suppers will be +evolved at regular periods, other necessities finding place where they +can. The new home, prettily furnished, seems a lovely toy, and is +surrounded by a halo, which, as facts assert themselves, quickly fades +away. Moth and rust and dust invade the most secret recesses. Breakage and +general disaster attend the progress of Bridget or Chloe. The kitchen +seems the headquarters of extraordinary smells, and the stove an abyss in +its consumption of coal or wood. Food is wasted by bad cooking, or +ignorance as to needed amounts, or methods of using left-over portions; +and, as bills pile up, a hopeless discouragement often settles upon both +wife and husband, and reproaches and bitterness and alienation are guests +in the home, to which they need never have come had a little knowledge +barred them out. + +In the beginning, then, be sure of one thing,--that all the wisdom you +have or can acquire, all the patience and tact and self-denial you can +make yours by the most diligent effort, will be needed every day and every +hour of the day. Details are in themselves wearying, and to most men their +relation to housekeeping is unaccountable. The day's work of a systematic +housekeeper would confound the best-trained man of business. In the +woman's hand is the key to home-happiness, but it is folly to assert that +all lies with her. Let it be felt from the beginning that her station is a +difficult one, that her duties are important, and that judgment and skill +must guide their performance; let boys be taught the honor that lies in +such duties,--and there will be fewer heedless and unappreciative +husbands. On the other hand, let the woman remember that the good general +does not waste words on hindrances, or leave his weak spots open to +observation, but, learning from every failure or defeat, goes on steadily +to victory. To fret will never mend a matter; and "Study to be quiet" in +thought, word, and action, is the first law of successful housekeeping. +Never under-estimate the difficulties to be met, for this is as much an +evil as over-apprehension. The best-arranged plans may be overturned at a +moment's notice. In a mixed family, habits and pursuits differ so widely +that the housekeeper must hold herself in readiness to find her most +cherished schemes set aside. Absolute adherence to a system is only +profitable so far as the greatest comfort and well-being of the family are +affected; and, dear as a fixed routine may be to the housekeeper's mind, +it may often well be sacrificed to the general pleasure or comfort. A +quiet, controlled mind, a soft voice, no matter what the provocation to +raise it may be, is "an excellent thing in woman." And the certainty that, +hard as such control may be, it holds the promise of the best and fullest +life here and hereafter, is a motive strong enough, one would think, to +insure its adoption. Progress may be slow, but the reward for every step +forward is certain. + +We have already found that each day has its fixed routine, and are ready +now to take up the order of work, which will be the same in degree whether +one servant is kept, or many, or none. The latter state of things will +often happen in the present uncertain character of household service. Old +family servants are becoming more and more rare; and, unless the new +generation is wisely trained, we run the risk of being even more at their +mercy in the future than in the past. + +First, then, on rising in the morning, see that a full current of air can +pass through every sleeping-room; remove all clothes from the beds, and +allow them to air at least an hour. Only in this way can we be sure that +the impurities, thrown off from even the cleanest body by the pores during +the night, are carried off. A neat housekeeper is often tempted to make +beds, or have them made, almost at once; but no practice can be more +unwholesome. + +While beds and bedrooms are airing, breakfast is to be made ready, the +table set, and kitchen and dining-room put in order. The kitchen-fire must +first be built. If a gas or oil stove can be used, the operations are all +simpler. If not, it is always best to have dumped the grate the night +before if coal is used, and to have laid the fire ready for lighting. In +the morning brush off all ashes, and wipe or blacken the stove. Strong, +thick gloves, and a neat box for brushes, blacking, &c., will make this a +much less disagreeable operation than it sounds. Rinse out the tea-kettle, +fill it with fresh water, and put over to boil. Then remove the ashes, +and, if coal is used, sift them, as cinders can be burned a large part of +the time where only a moderate fire is desired. + +The table can be set, and the dining or sitting room swept, or merely +brushed up and dusted, in the intervals of getting breakfast. To have +every thing clean, hot, and not only well prepared but ready on time, is +the first law, not only for breakfast, but for every other meal. + +After breakfast comes the dish-washing, dreaded by all beginners, but +needlessly so. With a full supply of all conveniences,--plenty of soap and +sapolio, which is far better and cleaner to use than either sand or ashes; +with clean, soft towels for glass and silver; a mop, the use of which not +only saves the hands but enables you to have hotter water; and a full +supply of coarser towels for the heavier dishes,--the work can go on +swiftly. Let the dish-pan be half full of hot soap and water. _Wash glass +first_, paying no attention to the old saying that "hot water rots glass." +Be careful never to put glass into hot water, bottom first, as the sudden +expansion may crack it. Slip it in edgeways, and the finest and most +delicate cut-glass will be safe. _Wash silver next._ Hot suds, and instant +wiping on dry soft cloths, will retain the brightness of silver, which +treated in this way requires much less polishing, and therefore lasts +longer. If any pieces require rubbing, use a little whiting made into a +paste, and put on wet. Let it dry, and then polish with a chamois-skin. +Once a month will be sufficient for rubbing silver, if it is properly +washed. _China comes next_--all plates having been carefully scraped, and +all cups rinsed out. To fill the pan with unscraped and unrinsed dishes, +and pour half-warm water over the whole, is a method too often adopted; +and the results are found in sticky dishes and lustreless silver. Put all +china, silver, and glass in their places as soon as washed. Then take any +tin or iron pans, wash, wipe with a dry towel, and put near the fire to +dry thoroughly. A knitting-needle or skewer may be kept to dig out corners +unreachable by dishcloth or towel, and if perfectly dried they will remain +free from rust. + +The cooking-dishes, saucepans, &c., come next in order; and here the wire +dish-cloth will be found useful, as it does not scratch, yet answers every +purpose of a knife. Every pot, kettle, and saucepan must be put into the +pan of hot water. If very greasy, it is well to allow them to stand partly +full of water in which a few drops of ammonia have been put. The _outside +must be washed_ as carefully as the inside. Till this is done, there will +always be complaint of the unpleasantness of handling cooking-utensils. +Properly done, they are as clean as the china or glass. + +Plated knives save much work. If steel ones are used, they must be +polished after every meal. In washing them, see that the handles are never +allowed to touch the water. Ivory discolors and cracks if wet. +Bristol-brick finely powdered is the best polisher, and, mixed with a +little water, can be applied with a large cork. A regular knife-board, or +a small board on which you can nail three strips of wood in box form, will +give you the best mode of keeping brick and cork in place. After rubbing, +wash clean, and wipe dry. + +The dish-towels are the next consideration. A set should be used but a +week, and must be washed and rinsed each day if you would not have the +flavor of dried-in dish-water left on your dishes. Dry them, if possible, +in the open air: if not, have a rack, and stand them near the fire. On +washing-days, let those that have been used a week have a thorough +boiling. The close, sour smell that all housekeepers have noticed about +dish-towels comes from want of boiling and drying in fresh air, and is +unpardonable and unnecessary. + +Keep hot water constantly in your kettles or water-pots, by always +remembering to fill with cold when you take out hot. Put away every +article carefully in its place. + +If tables are stained, and require any scrubbing, remember that to wash or +scrub wood you must follow the grain, as rubbing across it rubs the dirt +in instead of taking it off. + +The same rule applies to floors. A clean, coarse cloth, hot suds, and a +good scrubbing-brush, will simplify the operation. Wash off the table; +then dip the brush in the suds, and scour with the grain of the wood. +Finally wash off all soapy water, and wipe dry. To save strength, the +table on which dishes are washed may be covered with kitchen oilcloth, +which will merely require washing and wiping; with an occasional scrubbing +for the table below. + +The table must be cleaned as soon as the dishes are washed, because if +dishes stand upon tables the fragments of food have time to harden, and +the washing is made doubly hard. + +Leaving the kitchen in order, the bedrooms will come next. Turn the +mattresses daily, and make the bed smoothly and carefully. Put the under +sheet with the wrong side next the bed, and the upper one with the marked +end always at the top, to avoid the part where the feet lie, from being +reversed and so reaching the face. The sheets should be large enough to +tuck in thoroughly, three yards long by two and a half wide being none too +large for a double bed. Pillows should be beaten and then smoothed with +the hand, and the aim be to have an even, unwrinkled surface. As to the +use of shams, whether sheet or pillow, it is a matter of taste; but in all +cases, covered or uncovered, let the bed-linen be daintily clean. + +Empty all slops, and with hot water wash out all the bowls, pitchers, &c., +using separate cloths for these purposes, and never toilet towels. Dust +the room, arrange every thing in place, and, if in summer, close the +blinds, and darken till evening, that it may be as cool as possible. + +Sweeping days for bedrooms need come but once a week, but all rooms used +by many people require daily sweeping; halls, passages, and dining and +sitting rooms coming under this head. Careful dusting daily will often do +away with the need of frequent sweeping, which wears out carpets +unnecessarily. A carpet-sweeper is a real economy, both in time and +strength; but, if not obtainable, a light broom carefully handled, not +with a long stroke which sends clouds of dust over every thing, but with a +short quick one, which only experience can give, is next best. For a +thorough sweeping, remove as many articles from the room as possible, +dusting each one thoroughly, and cover the larger ones which must remain +with old sheets or large squares of common unbleached cotton cloth, kept +for this purpose. If the furniture is rep or woolen of any description, +dust about each button, that no moth may find lodgment, and then cover +closely. A feather duster, long or short, as usually applied, is the enemy +of cleanliness. Its only legitimate use is for the tops of pictures or +books and ornaments; and such dusting should be done _before_ the room is +swept, as well as afterward, the first one removing the heaviest coating, +which would otherwise be distributed over the room. For piano, and +furniture of delicate woods generally, old silk handkerchiefs make the +best dusters. For all ordinary purposes, squares of old cambric, hemmed, +and washed when necessary, will be found best. Insist upon their being +kept for this purpose, and forbid the use of toilet towels, always a +temptation to the average servant. Remember that in dusting, the process +should be a _wiping_; not a flirting of the cloth, which simply sends the +dust up into the air to settle down again about where it was before. + +If moldings and wash-boards or wainscotings are wiped off with a damp +cloth, one fruitful source of dust will be avoided. For all intricate work +like the legs of pianos, carved backs of furniture, &c., a pair of small +bellows will be found most efficient. Brooms, dust-pan, and brushes long +and short, whisk-broom, feather and other dusters, should have one fixed +place, and be returned to it after every using. If oil-cloth is on halls +or passages, it should be washed weekly with warm milk and water, a quart +of skim-milk to a pail of water being sufficient. Never use soap or +scrubbing-brush, as they destroy both color and texture. + +All brass or silver-plated work about fire-place, doorknobs, or bath-room +faucets, should be cleaned once a week and before sweeping. For silver, +rub first with powdered whiting moistened with a little alcohol or hot +water. Let it dry on, and then polish with a dry chamois-skin. If there is +any intricate work, use a small toothbrush. Whiting, silver-soap, cloths, +chamois, and brushes should all be kept in a box together. In another may +be the rotten-stone necessary for cleaning brass, a small bottle of oil, +and some woolen cloths. Old merino or flannel under-wear makes excellent +rubbing-cloths. Mix the rotten-stone with enough oil to make a paste; rub +on with one cloth, and polish with another. Thick gloves can be worn, and +all staining of the hands avoided. + +The bedrooms and the necessary daily sweeping finished, a look into cellar +and store-rooms is next in order,--in the former, to see that no decaying +vegetable matter is allowed to accumulate; in the latter, that bread-jar +or boxes are dry and sweet, and all stores in good condition. + +Where there are servants, it should be understood that the mistress makes +this daily progress. Fifteen minutes or half an hour will often cover the +time consumed; but it should be a fixed duty never omitted. A look into +the refrigerator or meat-safe to note what is left and suggest the best +use for it; a glance at towels and dish-cloths to see that all are clean +and sweet, and another under all sinks and into each pantry,--will prevent +the accumulation of bones and stray bits of food and dirty rags, the +paradise of the cockroach, and delight of mice and rats. A servant, if +honest, will soon welcome such investigation, and respect her mistress the +more for insisting upon it, and, if not, may better find other quarters. +One strong temptation to dishonesty is removed where such inspection is +certain, and the weekly bills will be less than in the house where matters +are left to take care of themselves. + +The preparation of dinner if at or near the middle of the day, and the +dish-washing which follows, end the heaviest portion of the day's work; +and the same order must be followed. Only an outline can be given; each +family demanding variations in detail, and each head of a family in time +building up her own system. Remember, however, that, if but one servant is +kept, she can not do every thing, and that your own brain must constantly +supplement her deficiencies, until training and long practice have made +your methods familiar. Even then she is likely at any moment to leave, and +the battle to begin over again; and the only safeguard in time of such +disaster is personal knowledge as to simplest methods of doing the work, +and inexhaustible patience in training the next applicant, finding comfort +in the thought, that, if your own home has lost, that of some one else is +by so much the gainer. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +FIRES, LIGHTS, AND THINGS TO WORK WITH. + + +The popular idea of a fire to cook by seems to be, a red-hot top, the +cover of every pot and saucepan dancing over the bubbling, heaving +contents, and coal packed in even with the covers. Try to convince a +servant that the lid need not hop to assure boiling, nor the fire rise +above the fire-box, and there is a profound skepticism, which, even if not +expressed, finds vent in the same amount of fuel and the same general +course of action as before the remonstrance. + +The modern stove has brought simplicity of working, and yet the highest +point of convenience, nearly to perfection. With full faith that the fuel +of the future will be gas, its use is as yet, for many reasons, very +limited; the cost of gas in our smaller cities and towns preventing its +adoption by any but the wealthy, who are really in least need of it. With +the best gas-stoves, a large part of the disagreeable in cooking is done +away. No flying ashes, no cinders, no uneven heat, affected by every +change of wind, but a steady flame, regulated to any desired point, and, +when used, requiring only a turn of the hand to end the operation. + +Ranges set in a solid brick-work are considered the best form of +cooking-apparatus; but there are some serious objections to their use, +the first being the large amount of fuel required, and then the intense +heat thrown out. Even with water in the house, they are not a necessity. A +water-back, fully as effectual as the range water-back, can be set in any +good stove, and connected with a boiler, large or small, according to the +size of the stove; and for such stove, if properly managed, only about +half the amount of coal will be needed. + +Fix thoroughly in your minds the directions for making and keeping a fire; +for, by doing so, one of the heaviest expenses in housekeeping can be +lessened fully half. + +First, then, remove the covers, and gather all ashes and cinders from the +inside top of the stove, into the grate. Now put on the covers; shut the +doors; close all the draughts, and dump the contents of the grate into the +pan below. In some stoves there is an under-grate, to which a handle is +attached; and, this grate being shaken, the ashes pass through to the +ash-pan, and the cinders remain in the grate. In that case, they can +simply be shoveled out into the extra coal-hod, all pieces of clinker +picked out, and a little water sprinkled on them. If all must be dumped +together, a regular ash-sifter will be required, placed over a barrel +which receives the ashes, while the cinders remain, and are to be treated +as described. + +Into the grate put shavings or paper, or the fat pine known as lightwood. +If the latter be used, paper is unnecessary. Lay on some small sticks of +wood, _crossing them_ so that there may be a draught through them; add +then one or two sticks of hard wood, and set the shavings or paper on +fire, seeing that every draught is open. As soon as the wood is well on +fire, cover with about six inches of coal, the smaller, or nut-coal, being +always best for stove use. When the coal is burning brightly, shut up all +the dampers save the slide in front of the grate, and you will have a fire +which will last, without poking or touching in any way, four hours. Even +if a little more heat is needed for ovens, and you open the draughts, this +rule still holds good. + +Never, for any reason, allow the coal to come above the edge of the +fire-box or lining. If you do, ashes and cinders will fall into the +oven-flues, and they will soon be choked up, and require cleaning. Another +reason also lies in the fact that the stove-covers resting on red-hot +coals soon burn out, and must be renewed; whereas, by carefully avoiding +such chance, a stove may be used many years without crack or failure of +any sort. + +If fresh heat is required for baking or any purpose after the first four +hours, let the fire burn low, then take off the covers, and with the poker +_from the bottom_ rake out all the ashes thoroughly. Then put in two or +three sticks of wood, fill as before with fresh coal, and the fire is good +for another four hours or more. If only a light fire be required after +dinner for getting tea, rake only slightly; then, fill with _cinders_, and +close all the dampers. Half an hour before using the stove, open them, and +the fire will rekindle enough for any ordinary purpose. As there is great +difference in the "drawing" of chimneys, the exact time required for +making a fire can not be given. + +In using wood, the same principles apply; but of course the fire must be +fed much oftener. Grate-fires, as well as those in the ordinary stove, are +to be made in much the same way. In a grate, a blower is fastened on until +the coal is burning well; but, if the fire is undisturbed after its +renewal, it should burn from six to eight hours without further attention. +Then rake out the ashes, add coal, put on the blower a few minutes, and +then proceed as before. If an exceedingly slow fire is desired, cover the +top with cinders, or with ashes moistened with water. In making a grate or +stove fire, keep a coarse cloth to lay before it, that ashes may not spoil +the carpet; and wipe about the fire-place with a damp, coarse cloth. In +putting on coal in a sick-room, where noise would disturb the patient, it +is a good plan to put it in small paper bags or in pieces of newspaper, in +which it can be laid on silently. A short table of degrees of heat in +various forms of fuel is given below; the degree required for baking, &c, +finding place when we come to general operations in cooking. + + DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL. + +Willow charcoal 600 deg. _Fah._ +Ordinary charcoal 700 deg. _Fah._ +Hard wood 800 deg. to 900 deg. _Fah._ +Coal 1000 deg. _Fah._ + +_Lights_ are next in order. Gas hardly requires mention, as the care of it +is limited to seeing that it is not turned too high, the flame in such +case not only vitiating the air of the room with double speed, but leaving +a film of smoke upon every thing in it. Kerosene is the oil most largely +used for lamps; and the light from either a student-lamp, or the lamp to +which a "student-burner" has been applied, is the purest and steadiest now +in use. A few simple rules for the care of lamps will prevent, not only +danger of explosion, but much breakage of chimneys, smoking, &c. + +1. Let the wick always touch the bottom of the lamp, and see that the top +is trimmed square and even across, with a pair of scissors kept for the +purpose. + +2. Remember that a lamp, if burned with only a little oil in it, generates +a gas which is liable at any moment to explode. Fill lamps to within half +an inch of the top. If filled brimming full, the outside of the lamp will +be constantly covered with the oil, even when unlighted; while as soon as +lighted, heat expanding it, it will run over, and grease every thing near +it. + +3. In lighting a lamp, turn the wick up gradually, that the chimney may +heat slowly: otherwise the glass expands too rapidly, and will crack. + +4. Keep the wick turned high enough to burn freely. Many persons turn down +the wick to save oil, but the room is quickly poisoned by the evil smell +from the gas thus formed. If necessary, as in a sick-room, to have little +light, put the lamp in the hall or another room, rather than to turn it +down. + +5. Remember, that, as with the fire, plenty of fresh air is necessary for +a free blaze, and that your lamp must be kept as free from dirt as the +stove from ashes. In washing the chimneys, use hot suds; and wipe with +bits of newspaper, which not only dry the glass better than a cloth, but +polish it also. + +6. In using either student-lamps, whether German or American, or the +beautiful and costly forms known as moderator-lamps, remember, that, to +secure a clear flame, the oil which accumulates in the cup below the wick, +as well as any surplus which has overflowed from the reservoir, must be +_poured out daily_. The neglect of this precaution is the secret of much +of the trouble attending the easy getting out of order of expensive lamps, +which will cease to be sources of difficulty if this rule be followed +carefully. + +7. Keep every thing used in such cleaning in a small box; the ordinary +starch-box with sliding lid being excellent for this purpose. Extra wicks, +lamp-scissors, rags for wiping off oil, can all find place here. See that +lamp-rags are burned now and then, and fresh ones taken; as the smell of +kerosene is very penetrating, and a room is often made unpleasant by the +presence of dirty lamp-rags. If properly cared for, lamps need be no more +offensive than gas. + +_Things_ to work with. + +We have settled that our kitchen shall be neat, cheerful, and sunny, with +closets as much as possible near enough together to prevent extra steps +being taken. If the servant is sufficiently well-trained to respect the +fittings of a well-appointed kitchen, and to take pleasure in keeping them +in order, the whole apparatus can be arranged in the kitchen-closets. If, +however, there is any doubt on this point, it will be far better to have +your own special table, and shelf or so above it, where the utensils +required for your own personal use in delicate cooking can be arranged. + +In any kitchen not less than two tables are required: one for all rough +work,--preparing meat, vegetables, &c, and dishing up meals; the other for +general convenience. The first must stand as near the sink and fire as +possible; and close to it, on a dresser, which it is well to have just +above the table and within reach of the hand, should be all the essentials +for convenient work, namely:-- + +A meat-block or board; + +A small meat-saw; + +A small cleaver and meat-knife; + +Spoons, skewers, vegetable-cutters, and any other small conveniences used +at this table, such as potato-slicer, larding and trussing needles, &c.; + +A chopping-knife and wooden tray or bowl; + +Rolling-pin, and bread and pastry board; + +Narrow-bladed, very sharp knife for paring, the French cook-knife being +the best ever invented for this purpose. + +A deep drawer in the table for holding coarse towels and aprons, balls of +twine of two sizes, squares of cloth used in boiling delicate fish or +meats, &c., will be found almost essential. Basting-spoons and many small +articles can hang on small hooks or nails, and are more easily picked up +than if one must feel over a shelf for them. These will be egg-beaters, +graters, ladle, &c. The same dresser, or a space over the sink, must hold +washing-pans for meat and vegetables, dish-pans, tin measures from a gill +up to one quart, saucepans, milk-boiler, &c. Below the sink, the closet +for iron-ware can be placed, or, if preferred, be between sink and stove. +A list in detail of every article required for a comfortably-fitted-up +kitchen is given at the end of the book. House-furnishing stores furnish +elaborate and confusing ones. The present list is simply what is needed +for the most efficient work. Of course, as you experiment and advance, it +may be enlarged; but the simple outfit can be made to produce all the +results likely to be needed, and many complicated patent arrangements are +hindrances, rather than helps. + +The _Iron-ware_ closet must hold at least two iron pots, frying-pans large +and small, and a Scotch kettle with frying-basket for oysters, fish-balls, +&c.,--this kettle being a broad shallow one four or five inches deep. +Roasting-pans, commonly called dripping-pans, are best of Russia iron. + +_Tin-ware_ must include colander, gravy and jelly strainers, and +vegetable-sifter or _puree_-sieve; six tin pie-plates, and from four to +six jelly-cake tins with straight edges; and at least one porcelain-lined +kettle, holding not less than four quarts, while a three-gallon one for +preserving and canning is also desirable; + +Muffin rings or pans; "gem-pans;" + +Four bread-tins, of best tin (or, better still, Russia iron), the best +size for which is ten inches long by four wide and four deep; the loaf +baked in such pan requiring less time, and giving a slice of just the +right shape and size; + +Cake-tins of various shapes as desired, a set of small tins being +desirable for little cakes. + +A small sifter in basket shape will be found good for cake-making, and a +larger one for bread; and spices can be most conveniently kept in a +spice-caster, which is a stand holding six or eight small labeled +canisters. Near it can also be small tin boxes or glass cans for dried +sweet herbs, the salt-box, &c. + +The _Crockery_ required will be: at least two large mixing-bowls, holding +not less than eight or ten quarts, and intended for bread, cake, and many +other purposes; a bowl with lip to pour from, and also a smaller-sized one +holding about two quarts; half a dozen quart and pint bowls; + +Half a dozen one-and two-quart round or oval pudding-dishes or nappies; + +Several deep plates for use in putting away cold food; + +Blancmange-molds, three sizes; + +One large pitcher, also three-pint and quart sizes; + +Yeast-jar, or, what is better, two or three Mason's glass cans, kept for +yeast. + +This list does not include any crockery for setting a servant's table; +that being governed by the number kept, and other considerations. Such +dishes should be of heavier ware than your own, as they are likely to +receive rougher handling; but there should be a full supply as one means +of teaching neatness. + +_Wooden-ware_ is essential in the shape of a nest of boxes for rice, +tapioca, &c.; and wooden pails for sugar, Graham-flour, &c.; while you +will gradually accumulate many conveniences in the way of jars, stone pots +for pickling, demijohns, &c., which give the store-room, at last, the +expression dear to all thrifty housekeepers. + +Scrubbing and water pails, scrubbing and blacking brushes, soap-dishes, +sand-box, knife-board, and necessities in cleaning, must all find place, +and, having found it, keep it to the end; absolute order and system being +the first condition of comfortable housekeeping. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +WASHING-DAY, AND CLEANING IN GENERAL. + + +Why Monday should be fixed upon as washing-day, is often questioned; but, +like many other apparently arbitrary arrangements, its foundation is in +common-sense. Tuesday has its advantages also, soon to be mentioned; but +to any later period than Tuesday there are serious objections. All +clothing is naturally changed on Sunday; and, if washed before dirt has +had time to harden in the fiber of the cloth, the operation is much +easier. The German custom, happily passing away, of washing only annually +or semi-annually, is both disgusting, and destructive to health and +clothes; the air of whatever room such accumulations are stored in being +poisoned, while the clothes themselves are rubbed to pieces in the +endeavor to get out the long-seated dirt. + +A weekly wash being the necessity if perfect cleanliness exists, the +simplest and best method of thoroughly accomplishing it comes up for +question. While few women are obliged to use their own hands in such +directions, plenty of needy and unskilled workwomen who can earn a living +in no other way being ready to relieve us, it is yet quite as necessary to +know every detail, in order that the best work may be required, and that +where there is ignorance of methods in such work they may be taught. + +The advantages of washing on Tuesday are, that it allows Monday for +setting in order after the necessary rest of Sunday, gives opportunity to +collect and put in soak all the soiled clothing, and so does away with the +objection felt by many good people to performing this operation Sunday +night. + +To avoid such sin, bed-clothing is often changed on Saturday; but it seems +only part of the freshness and sweetness which ought always to make Sunday +the white-day of the week, that such change should be made on that +morning, while the few minutes required for sorting the clothes, and +putting them in water, are quite as legitimate as any needed operation. + +If Monday be the day, then, Saturday night may be chosen for filling the +tubs, supposing the kitchen to be unfurnished with stationary tubs. Sunday +night enough hot water can be added to make the whole just warm--not hot. +Now put in one tub all fine things,--collars and cuffs, shirts and fine +underwear. Bed-linen may be added, or soaked in a separate tub; but +table-linen must of course be kept apart. Last, let the coarsest and most +soiled articles have another. Do not add soap, as if there is any stain it +is likely to set it. If the water is hard, a little borax may be added. +And see that the clothes are pressed down, and well covered with water. + +Monday morning, and the earlier the better (the morning sun drying and +sweetening clothes better than the later), have the boiler full of clean +warm suds. Soft soap may be used, or a bar of hard dissolved in hot water, +and used like soft soap. All the water in which the clothes have soaked +should be drained off, and the hot suds poured on. Begin with the cleanest +articles, which when washed carefully are wrung out, and put in a tub of +warm water. Rinse out from this; rub soap on all the parts which are most +soiled, these parts being bands and sleeves, and put them in the boiler +with cold water enough to cover them. To boil up once will be sufficient +for fine clothes. Then take them out into a tub of clean cold water; rinse +them in this, and then in a tub of water made very slightly blue with the +indigo-bag or liquid indigo. From this water they must be wrung out very +dry, and hung out, always out of doors if possible. A wringer is much +better than wringing by hand, as the latter is more unequal, and also +often twists off buttons. The lines must be perfectly clean. A +galvanized-iron wire is best of all; as it never rusts, and needs only to +be wiped off each week. If rope is used, never leave it exposed to +weather, but bring it in after each washing. A dirty, weather-stained line +will often ruin a nice garment. Leave clothes on the line till perfectly +dry. If any fruit-stains are on napkins or table-cloths, lay the stained +part over a bowl, and pour on boiling water till they disappear. Ink can +be taken out if the spot is washed while fresh, in cold water, or milk and +water; and a little salt will help in taking out wine-stains. Machine-oil +must have a little lard or butter rubbed on the spot, which is then to be +washed in warm suds. Never rub soap directly on any stain, as it sets it. +For iron-rust, spread the garment in the sun, and cover the spot with +salt; then squeeze on lemon-juice enough to wet it. This is much safer and +quite as sure as the acids sold for this purpose. In bright sunshine the +spot will disappear in a few hours. + +Remember that long boiling does not improve clothes. If washed clean, +simply scalding is all that is required. + +If delicate curtains, either lace or muslin, are to be washed, allow a +tablespoonful of powdered borax to two gallons of warm water, and soap +enough to make a strong suds. Soak the curtains in this all night. In the +morning add more warm water, and press every part between the hands, +without rubbing. Put them in fresh suds, and, if the water still looks +dark after another washing, take still another. Boil and rinse as in +directions given for other clothes. Starch with very thick hot starch, and +dry, not by hanging out, and then ironing, but by putting a light common +mattress in the sun, and pinning the curtain upon it, stretching carefully +as you pin. One mattress holds two, which will dry in an hour or two. If +there is no sun, lay a sheet on the floor of an unused room, and pin the +curtains down upon it. + +In washing flannels, remember that it must be done in a sunny day, that +they may dry as rapidly as possible. Put them into hot suds. Do not rub +them on a washing-board, as this is one means of fulling and ruining them. +Press and rub them in the hands, changing them soon to fresh hot suds. +Rinse in a pail of clear hot water; wring very dry; shake, and hang at +once in the sun. Flannels thus treated, no matter how delicate, retain +their softness and smoothness, and do not shrink. + +Starch is the next consideration, and is made in two ways,--either raw or +boiled. Boiled starch is made by adding cold water to raw starch in the +proportion of one cup of water to three-quarters of a cup of starch, and +then pouring on boiling water till it has thickened to a smooth mass, +constantly stirring as you pour. A bit of butter is added by many +excellent laundresses, the bit not to be larger than a filbert. Any thing +starched with boiled starch must be dried and sprinkled before ironing, +while with raw starch this is not necessary. + +To make raw starch, allow four even tablespoonfuls to a half-pint of cold +water. Dip collars, cuffs, and shirt-bosoms, or any thing which must be +very stiff, into this starch, being careful to have them dry. When wet, +clap them well between the hands, as this distributes the starch evenly +among the fibers of the cloth. The same rule must be followed in using +boiled starch. Roll the articles in a damp cloth, as this makes them iron +more smoothly; and in an hour they will be ready for the iron. In using +boiled starch, after the articles have been dried, and then dampened by +sprinkling water lightly upon them, either by the hand, or by shaking over +them a small whisk-broom which is dipped as needed in water, it is better +to let them lie ten or twelve hours. + +All clothes require this folding and dampening. Sheets and table-cloths +should be held by two persons, shaken and "snapped," and then folded +carefully, stretching the edges if necessary. + +Colored clothing must be rinsed before starching, and the starch should be +thin and cool. + +For ironing neatly and well, there will be required, half a dozen +flat-irons, steel bottoms preferred; a skirt-board and bosom-board, both +covered, first with old blanket or carpet, then with thick strong +cotton-cloth, and over this a cover of lighter cloth, sewed on so that it +may be removed as often as may be necessary to wash it. If a bag the size +of each is made, and they are hung up in this as soon as used, such +washing need very seldom be. Having these, many dispense with +ironing-sheet and blanket; but it is better to use a table for all large +articles, and on this the ironing-sheet can be pinned, or tied by tapes, +or strips of cloth, sewed to each corner. A stand on which to set the +irons, a paper and coarse cloth to rub them off on, and a bit of yellow +wax tied in a cloth, and used to remove any roughness from the iron, are +the requirements of the ironing-table. + +Once a month, while the irons are still slightly warm, wash them in warm +water in which a little lard has been melted. Never let them stand day +after day on the stove, and never throw cold water on them, as it makes +them very rough. + +If the starch clings to the irons, put a little Bristol-brick on a board, +and rub them up and down till free. If they are too hot for use, put in a +current of air a few moments; and in all cases try them on a piece of +paper or cloth before putting them on a garment. If through carelessness +or accident an article is scorched, lay it in the hottest sunshine to be +found. If the fiber is not burned, this will often take the spot entirely +out. + +Let the ironed clothes hang in the air for at least twenty-four hours +after ironing. Unaired sheets have often brought on fatal sickness. +Examine all clothes sent up from the wash. If the laundress is sure this +inspection will take place, it is a constant spur to working in the best +way, and a word of praise for good points is always a stimulus. Mending +should be done as the clothes are looked over, before putting away. Place +the sheets from each wash at the bottom of the pile, that the same ones +may not be used over and over, but all come in rotation; and the same with +table-linen. If the table-cloth in use is folded carefully in the creases, +and kept under a heavy piece of plank, it will retain a fresh look till +soiled. Special hints as to washing blankets and dress-materials will be +given in the latter part of the book. + +However carefully and neatly a house may be kept, it requires a special +putting in order, known as _House-cleaning_, at least once a year. Spring +and fall are both devoted to it in New England; and, if the matter be +conducted quietly, there are many advantages in the double cleaning. In a +warmer climate, where insect-life is more troublesome and the reign of +flies lasts longer, two cleanings are rather a necessity. As generally +managed, they are a terror to every one, and above all to gentlemen, who +resent it from beginning to end. No wonder, if at the first onslaught all +home comfort ends, and regular meals become irregular lunches, and a quiet +night's rest something sought but not found. + +A few simple rules govern here, and will rob the ordeal of half its +terrors. + +If coal or wood are to be laid in for the year's supply, let it be done +before cleaning begins, as much dust is spread through the house in such +work. + +Heavy carpets do not require taking up every year; once in two, or even +three, being sufficient unless they are in constant use. Take out the +tacks, however, each year; fold back the carpet half a yard or so; have +the floor washed with a strong suds in which borax has been dissolved,--a +tablespoonful to a pail of water; then dust black pepper along the edges, +and retack the carpet. By this means moths are kept away; and, as their +favorite place is in corners and folds, this laying back enables one to +search out and destroy them. + +Sapolio is better than sand for scouring paint, and in all cases a little +borax in the water makes such work easier. + +Closets should be put in order first; all winter clothing packed in +trunks, or put in bags made from several thicknesses of newspaper, +printers' ink being one of the most effectual protections against moths. +Gum-camphor is also excellent; and, if you have no camphor-wood chest or +closet, a pound of the gum, sewed into little bags, will last for years. +In putting away clothing, blankets, &c., look all over, and brush and +shake with the utmost care before folding, in order to get rid of any +possible moth-eggs. + +If matting is used, wipe it with borax-water, using a cloth wet enough to +dampen but _not_ wet. + +Window-glass thoroughly washed can be dried and polished with old +newspapers; or whiting can be used, and rubbed off with a woolen cloth. + +Hard-wood furniture, black walnut, or other varieties, requires oiling +lightly with boiled linseed oil, and rubbing dry with a woolen cloth; and +varnished furniture, mahogany or rosewood, if kept carefully dusted, +requires only an occasional rubbing with chamois-skin or thick flannel to +retain its polish perfectly. Soap should never be used on varnish of any +sort. + +Ingrain and other carpets, after shaking, are brightened in color by +sprinkling a pound or two of salt over the surface, and sweeping +carefully; and it is also useful to occasionally wipe off a carpet with +borax-water, using a thick flannel, and taking care not to wet, but only +dampen the carpet. Mirrors can be cleaned with whiting. Never scrub +oil-pictures: simply wipe with a damp cloth, and, if picture-cord is used, +wipe it off to secure against moths. + +It is impossible to cover the whole ground of cleaning in this chapter. +Experience is the best teacher. Only remember that a household earthquake +is not necessary, and that the whole work can be done so gradually, +quietly, and systematically, that only the workers need know much about +it. The sense of purity transfused through the air and breathing from +every nook and corner should be the only indication that upheaval has +existed. The best work is always in silence. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE BODY AND ITS COMPOSITION. + + +"The lamp of life" is a very old metaphor for the mysterious principle +vitalizing nerve and muscle; but no comparison could be so apt. The +full-grown adult takes in each day, through lungs and mouth, about eight +and a half pounds of dry food, water, and the air necessary for breathing +purposes. Through the pores of the skin, the lungs, kidneys, and lower +intestines, there is a corresponding waste; and both supply and waste +amount in a year to one and a half tons, or three thousand pounds. + +The steadiness and clear shining of the flame of a lamp depend upon +quality, as well as amount of the oil supplied, and, too, the texture of +the wick; and so all human life and work are equally made or marred by the +food which sustains life, as well as the nature of the constitution +receiving that food. + +Before the nature and quality of food can be considered, we must know the +constituents of the body to be fed, and something of the process through +which digestion and nutrition are accomplished. + +I shall take for granted that you have a fairly plain idea of the stomach +and its dependences. Physiologies can always be had, and for minute +details they must be referred to. Bear in mind one or two main points: +that all food passes from the mouth to the stomach, an irregularly-shaped +pouch or bag with an opening into the duodenum, and from thence into the +larger intestine. From the mouth to the end of this intestine, the whole +may be called the alimentary canal; a tube of varying size and some +thirty-six feet in length. The mouth must be considered part of it, as it +is in the mouth that digestion actually begins; all starchy foods +depending upon the action of the saliva for genuine digestion, saliva +having some strange power by which starch is converted into sugar. +Swallowed whole, or placed directly in the stomach, such food passes +through the body unchanged. Each division of the alimentary canal has its +own distinct digestive juice, and I give them in the order in which they +occur. + +First, The saliva; secreted from the glands of the mouth:--alkaline, +glairy, adhesive. + +Second, The gastric juice; secreted in the inner or third lining of the +stomach,--an acid, and powerful enough to dissolve all the fiber and +albumen of flesh food. + +Third, The pancreatic juice; secreted by the pancreas, which you know in +animals as sweetbreads. This juice has a peculiar influence upon fats, +which remain unchanged by saliva and gastric juice; and not until +dissolved by pancreatic juice, and made into what chemists call an +_emulsion_, can they be absorbed into the system. + +Fourth, The bile; which no physiologist as yet thoroughly understands. We +know its action, but hardly _why_ it acts. It is a necessity, however; for +if by disease the supply be cut off, an animal emaciates and soon dies. + +Fifth, The intestinal juice; which has some properties like saliva, and is +the last product of the digestive forces. + +A meal, then, in its passage downward is first diluted and increased in +bulk by a watery fluid which prepares all the starchy portion for +absorption. Then comes a still more profuse fluid, dissolving all the +meaty part. Then the fat is attended to by the stream of pancreatic juice, +and at the same time the bile pours upon it, doing its own work in its own +mysterious way; and last of all, lest any process should have been +imperfect, the long canal sends out a juice having some of the properties +of all. + +Thus each day's requirements call for + + PINTS. + +Of saliva 3-3/4 + gastric juice 12 + bile 3-3/4 + pancreatic juice 1-1/2 + intestinal juice 1/2 + ------- + 21-1/2 + +Do not fancy this is all wasted or lost. Very far from it: for the whole +process seems to be a second circulation, as it were; and, while the blood +is moving in its wonderful passage through veins and arteries, another +circulation as wonderful, an endless current going its unceasing round so +long as life lasts, is also taking place. But without food the first would +become impossible; and the quality of food, and its proper digestion, mean +good or bad blood as the case may be. We must follow our mouthful of food, +and see how this action takes place. + +When the different juices have all done their work, the _chyme_, which is +food as it passes from the stomach into the duodenum or passage to the +lower stomach or bowels, becomes a milky substance called _chyle_, which +moves slowly, pushed by numberless muscles along the bowel, which squeeze +much of it into little glands at the back of the bowels. These are called +the mesenteric glands; and, as each one receives its portion of chyle, a +wonderful thing happens. About half of it is changed into small round +bodies called corpuscles, and they float with the rest of the milky fluid +through delicate pipes which take it to a sort of bag just in front of the +spine. To this bag is fastened another pipe or tube--the thoracic +duct--which follows the line of the spine; and up this tube the small +bodies travel till they come to the neck and a spot where two veins meet. +A door in one opens, and the transformation is complete. The small bodies +are raw food no more, but blood, traveling fast to where it may be +purified, and begin its endless round in the best condition. For, as you +know, venous blood is still impure and dirty blood. Before it can be +really alive it must pass through the veins to the right side of the +heart, flow through into the upper chamber, then through another door or +valve into the lower, where it is pumped out into the lungs. If these +lungs are, as they should be, full of pure air, each corpuscle is so +charged with oxygen, that the last speck of impurity is burned up, and it +goes dancing and bounding on its way. That is what health means: perfect +food made into perfect blood, and giving that sense of strength and +exhilaration that we none of us know half as much about as we should. We +get it sometimes on mountain-tops in clear autumn days when the air is +like wine; but God meant it to be our daily portion, and this very +despised knowledge of cookery is to bring it about. If a lung is +imperfect, supplied only with foul air as among the very poor, or diseased +as in consumption, food does not nourish, and you now know why. We have +found that the purest air and the purest water contain the largest +proportion of oxygen; and it is this that vitalizes both food and, through +food, the blood. + +To nourish this body, then, demands many elements; and to study these has +been the joint work of chemists and physiologists, till at last every +constituent of the body is known and classified. Many as these +constituents are, they are all resolved into the simple elements, oxygen, +hydrogen, nitrogen, and carbon, while a little sulphur, a little +phosphorus, lime, chlorine, sodium, &c., are added. + +FLESH and BLOOD are composed of water, fat, fibrine, albumen, gelatine, +and the compounds of lime, phosphorus, soda, potash, magnesia, iron, &c. + +BONE contains cartilage, gelatine, fat, and the salts of lime, magnesia, +soda, &c., in combination with phosphoric and other acids. + +CARTILAGE consists of chondrine, a substance somewhat like gelatine, and +contains also the salts of sulphur, lime, soda, potash, phosphorus, +magnesia, and iron. + +BILE is made up of water, fat, resin, sugar, cholesterine, some fatty +acids, and the salts of potash, iron, and soda. + +THE BRAIN is made up of water, albumen, fat, phosphoric acid, osmazone, +and salts. + +THE LIVER unites water, fat, and albumen, with phosphoric and other acids, +and lime, iron, soda, and potash. + +THE LUNGS are formed of two substances: one like gelatine; another of the +nature of caseine and albumen, fibrine, cholesterine, iron, water, soda, +and various fatty and organic acids. + +How these varied elements are held together, even science with all its +deep searchings has never told. No man, by whatsoever combination of +elements, has ever made a living plant, much less a living animal. No +better comparison has ever been given than that of Youmans, who makes a +table of the analogies between the human body and the steam-engine, which +I give as it stands. + + +ANALOGIES OF THE STEAM-ENGINE AND THE LIVING BODY. + +_The Steam Engine in Action takes_: + +1. Fuel: coal and wood, both combustible. + +2. Water for evaporation. + +3. Air for combustion. + + +_And Produces_: + +4. A steady boiling heat of 212 deg. by quick combustion. + +5. Smoke loaded with carbonic acid and watery vapor. + +6. Incombustible ashes. + +7. Motive force of simple alternate push and pull in the piston, which, +acting through wheels, bands, and levers, does work of endless variety. + +8. A deficiency of fuel, water, or air, disturbs, then stops the motion. + + +_The Animal Body in Life takes_: + +1. Food: vegetables and flesh, both combustible. + +2. Water for circulation. + +3. Air for respiration. + + +_And Produces_: + +4. A steady animal heat, by slow combustion, of 98 deg.. + +5. Expired breath loaded with carbonic acid and watery vapor. + +6. Incombustible animal refuse. + +7. Motive force of simple alternate contraction and relaxation in the +muscles, which, acting through joints, tendons, and levers, does work of +endless variety. + +8. A deficiency of food, drink, or air, first disturbs, then stops the +motion and the life. + + +Carrying out this analogy, you will at once see why a person working hard +with either body or mind requires more food than the one who does but +little. The food taken into the human body can never be a simple element. +We do not feed on plain, undiluted oxygen or nitrogen; and, while the +composition of the human body includes really sixteen elements in all, +oxygen is the only one used in its natural state. I give first the +elements as they exist in a body weighing about one hundred and fifty-four +pounds, this being the average weight of a full-grown man; and add a +table, compiled from different sources, of the composition of the body as +made up from these elements. Dry as such details may seem, they are the +only key to a full understanding of the body, and the laws of the body, so +far as the food-supply is concerned; though you will quickly find that the +day's food means the day's thought and work, well or ill, and that in your +hands is put a power mightier than you know,--the power to build up body, +and through body the soul, into a strong and beautiful manhood and +womanhood. + + +ELEMENTS OF THE HUMAN BODY. + +---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- + | Lbs. | Oz. | Grs. +---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- +1. Oxygen, a gas, and supporter of combustion, | | | + weighs | 103 | 2 | 335 + | | | +2. Carbon, a solid; found most nearly pure in charcoal. | | | + Carbon in the body combines with other | | | + elements to produce carbonic-acid gas, and by | | | + its burning sets heat free. Its weight is | 18 | 11 | 150 + | | | +3. Hydrogen, a gas, is a part of all bone, blood, and | | | + muscle, and weighs | 4 | 14 | 0 + | | | +4. Nitrogen, a gas, is also part of all muscle, blood, | | | + and bone; weighing | 4 | 14 | 0 + | | | +5. Phosphorus, a solid, found in brain and bones, | | | + weighs | 1 | 12 | 25 + | | | +6. Sulphur, a solid, found in all parts of the body, | | | + weighs | 0 | 8 | 0 + | | | +7. Chlorine, a gas, found in all parts of the body, | | | + weighs | 0 | 4 | 150 + | | | +8. Fluorine, supposed to be a gas, is found with calcium | | | + in teeth and bones, and weighs | 0 | 3 | 300 + | | | +9. Silicon, a solid, found united with oxygen in the | | | + hair, skin, bile, bones, blood, and saliva, weighs | 0 | 0 | 14 + | | | +10. Magnesium, a metal found in union with phosphoric | | | + acid in the bones | 0 | 2 | 250 + | | | +11. Potassium, a metal, the basis of potash, is found | | | + as phosphate and chloride; weighs | 0 | 3 | 340 + | | | +12. Sodium, a metal, basis of soda; weighs | 0 | 3 | 217 + | | | +13. Calcium, a metal, basis of lime, found chiefly in | | | + bones and teeth; weighs | 3 | 13 | 190 + | | | +14. Iron, a metal essential in the coloring of the | | | + blood, and found everywhere in the body; | | | + weighs | 0 | 0 | 65 + | | | +15. Manganese. } Faint traces of both these metals | | | + } | | | +16. Copper metals.} are found in brain and blood, | | | + but in too minute portions to be given by | | | + weight. | | | + |------|-----|----- + Total | 154 | 0 | 0 + +The second table gives the combinations of these elements; and, though a +knowledge of such combinations is not as absolutely essential as the +first, we still can not well dispense with it. The same weight--one +hundred and fifty-four pounds--is taken as the standard. + + +COMPOSITION OF THE BODY. + +---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- + | Lbs. | Oz. | Grs. +---------------------------------------------------------|------|-----|----- +1. Water, which is found in every part of the body, | | | + and amounts to | 109 | 0 | 0 + | | | +2. Fibrine, and like substances, found in the blood, | | | + and forming the chief solid materials of the | | | + flesh | 15 | 10 | 0 + | | | +3. Phosphate of lime, chiefly in bones and teeth, but | | | + in all liquids and tissues | 8 | 12 | 0 + +4. Fat, a mixture of three chemical compounds, | | | + and distributed all through the body | 4 | 8 | 0 + | | | +5. Osseine, the organic framework of bones; boiled, | | | + gives gelatine. Weight | 4 | 7 | 350 + | | | +6. Keratine, a nitrogenous substance, forming the | | | + greater part of hair, nails, and skin. Weighs | 4 | 2 | 0 + | | | +7. Cartilagine resembles the osseine of bone, and is a | | | + nitrogenous substance, the chief constituent of | | | + cartilage, weighing | 1 | 8 | 0 + | | | +8. Haemoglobine gives the red color to blood, and is | | | + a nitrogenous substance containing iron, and | | | + weighing | 1 | 8 | 0 + | | | +9. Albumen is a soluble nitrogenous substance, | | | + found in the blood, chyle, lymph, and muscle, | | | + and weighs | 1 | 1 | 0 + | | | +10. Carbonate of lime is found in the bones chiefly, | | | + and weighs | 1 | 1 | 0 + | | | +11. Hephalin is found in nerves and brain, with | | | + cerebrine and other compounds | 0 | 13 | 0 + | | | +12. Fluoride of calcium is found in teeth and bones, | | | + and weighs | 0 | 7 | 175 + | | | +13. Phosphate of magnesia is also in teeth and bones, | | | + and weighs | 0 | 7 | 0 + | | | +14. Chloride of sodium, or common salt, is found in | | | + all parts of the body, and weighs | 0 | 7 | 0 + | | | +15. Cholesterine, glycogen, and inosite are compounds | | | + containing hydrogen, oxygen, and carbon, | | | + found in muscle, liver, and brain, and | | | + weighing | 0 | 3 | 0 + | | | +16. Sulphate phosphate, and salts of sodium, found | | | + in all tissues and liquids | 0 | 2 | 107 + | | | +17. Sulphate, phosphate, and chloride of potassium, | | | + are also in all tissues and liquids | 0 | 1 | 300 + | | | +18. Silica, found in hair, skin, and bone | 0 | 0 | 30 + | | | + | --- | --- | --- + | 154 | 0 | 0 + +With this basis, to give us some understanding of the complicated and +delicate machinery with which we must work, the question arises, what food +contains all these constituents, and what its amount and character must +be. The answer to this question will help us to form an intelligent plan +for providing a family with the right nutrition. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +FOOD AND ITS LAWS. + + +We have found, that, in analyzing the constituents of the body, water is +the largest part; and turning to food, whether animal or vegetable, the +same fact holds good. It forms the larger part of all the drinks, of +fruits, of succulent vegetables, eggs, fish, cheese, the cereals, and even +of fats. + +Fat is found in butter, lard, drippings, milk, eggs, cheese, fish, meat, +the cereals, leguminous vegetables,--such as pease and beans,--nuts, +cocoa, and chocolate. + +Sugar abounds in fruits and vegetables, and is found in milk and cereals. + +Starch, which under the action of the saliva changes into glucose or +grape-sugar, is present in vegetables and cereals. + +Flesh foods, called as often nitrogenous foods, from containing so large a +proportion of nitrogen, are made up of fibrine, albumen, caseine, +gelatine, and gluten; the first four elements being present in flesh, the +latter in vegetables. + +Salts of various forms exist in both animal and vegetable food. In meat, +fish, and potatoes are found phosphorus, lime, and magnesia. Common salt +is largely made up of soda, but is found with potash in many vegetables. +This last element is also in meat, fish, milk, vegetables, and fruits. +Iron abounds in flesh and vegetables; and sulphur enters into albumen, +caseine, and fibrine. + +The simplest division of food is into _flesh-formers_ and +_heat-producers_; the former being as often called nitrogenous food, or +albumenoids; the latter, heat-giving or carbonaceous foods. Much minuter +divisions could be made, but these two cover the ground sufficiently well. +For a healthy body both are necessary, but climate and constitution will +always make a difference in the amounts required. Thus, in a keen and +long-continued winter, the most condensed forms of carbonaceous foods will +be needed; while in summer a small portion of nitrogenous food to nourish +muscle, and a large amount of cooling fruits and vegetables, are +indicated; both of these, though more or less carbonaceous in character, +containing so much water as to neutralize any heat-producing effects. + +Muscle being the first consideration in building up a strong body, we need +first to find out the values of different foods as flesh-formers, healthy +flesh being muscle in its most perfect condition. Flesh and fat are never +to be confounded, fat being really a species of disease,--the overloading +of muscle and tissue with what has no rightful place there. There should +be only enough fat to round over the muscle, but never hide its play. The +table given is the one in use in the food-gallery of the South Kensington +Museum, and includes not only the nutritive value, but the cost also, of +each article; taking beef as the standard with which other animal foods +are to be compared, beef being the best-known of all meats. Among +vegetables, lentils really contain most nourishment; but wheat is chosen +as being much more familiar, lentils being very little used in this +country save by the German part of the population, and having so strong +and peculiar a flavor that we are never likely to largely adopt their use. + +About an equal amount of nourishment is found in the varied amounts +mentioned in the table which follows:-- + +TABLE. + + Cost about +Eight ounces of lean beef (half-pound) 6 cts. +Ten ounces of dried lentils 7 cts. +Eleven ounces of pease or beans 5 cts. +Twelve ounces of cocoa-nibs 20 cts. +Fourteen ounces of tea 40 cts. +Fifteen ounces of oatmeal 5 cts. +One pound and one ounce of wheaten flour 4 cts. +One pound and one ounce of coffee 30 cts. +One pound and two ounces of rye-flour 5 cts. +One pound and three ounces of barley 5 cts. +One pound and five ounces Indian meal 5 cts. +One pound and thirteen ounces of buckwheat-flour 10 cts. +Two pounds of wheaten bread 10 cts. +Two pounds and six ounces of rice 20 cts. +Five pounds and three ounces of cabbage 10 cts. +Five pounds and three ounces of onions 15 cts. +Eight pounds and fifteen ounces of turnips 9 cts. +Ten pounds and seven ounces of potatoes 10 cts. +Fifteen pounds and ten ounces of carrots 15 cts. + +Now, because tea, coffee, and cocoa approach so nearly in value as +nutriment to beef and lentils, we must not be misled. Fourteen ounces of +tea are equivalent to half a pound of meat; but a repast of dry tea not +being very usual, in fact, being out of the question altogether, it +becomes plain, that the principal value of these foods, used as we must +use them, in very small quantities, is in the warmth and comfort they +give. Also, these weights (except the bread) are of uncooked food. Eight +ounces of meat would, if boiled or roasted, dwindle to five or six, while +the ten ounces of lentils or beans would swell to twice the capacity of +any ordinary stomach. So, ten pounds of potatoes are required to give you +the actual benefit contained in the few ounces of meat; and only the +Irishman fresh from his native cabin can calmly consider a meal of that +magnitude, while, as to carrots, neither Irishman nor German, nor the most +determined and enterprising American, could for a moment face the +spectacle of fifteen pounds served up for his noonday meal. + +The inference is plain. Union is strength, here as elsewhere; and the +perfect meal must include as many of these elements as will make it not +too bulky, yet borrowing flavor and substance wherever necessary. + +As a rule, the food best adapted to climate and constitution seems to have +been instinctively decided upon by many nations; and a study of national +dishes, and their adaptation to national needs, is curious and +interesting. The Esquimaux or Greenlander finds his most desirable meal in +a lump of raw blubber, the most condensed form of carbonaceous food being +required to preserve life. It is not a perverted taste, but the highest +instinct; for in that cruel cold the body must furnish the food on which +the keen air draws, and the lamp of life there has a very literal supply. + +Take now the other extreme of temperature,--the East Indies, China, +Africa, and part even of the West Indies and America,--and you find rice +the universal food. There is very little call, as you may judge, for +heat-producers, but rather for flesh-formers; and starch and sugar both +fulfill this end, the rice being chiefly starch, which turns into sugar +under the action of the saliva. Add a little melted butter, the East +Indian _ghee_, or olive-oil used in the West Indies instead, and we have +all the elements necessary for life under those conditions. + +A few degrees northward, and the same rice is mingled with bits of fish +or meat, as in the Turkish _pilau_, a dish of rice to which mutton or +poultry is added. + +The wandering Arab finds in his few dates, and handful of parched wheat or +maize, the sugar and starch holding all the heat required, while his +draught of mare's or camel's milk, and his occasional _pilau_ of mutton, +give him the various elements which seem sufficient to make him the model +of endurance, blitheness, and muscular power. So the Turkish +burden-bearers who pick up a two-hundred-pound bag of coffee as one picks +up a pebble, use much the same diet, though adding melons and cucumbers, +which are eaten as we eat apples. + +The noticeable point in the Italian dietary is the universal and profuse +use of macaroni. Chestnuts and Indian corn, the meal of which is made into +a dish called _polenta_, something like our mush, are also used, but +macaroni is found at every table, noble or peasant's. No form of wheat +presents such condensed nourishment, and it deserves larger space on our +own bills of fare than we have ever given it. + +In Spain we find the _olla podrida_, a dish containing, as chief +ingredient, the _garbanzo_ or field-pea: it is a rich stew, of fowls or +bacon, red peppers, and pease. Red pepper enters into most of the dishes +in torrid climates, and there is a good and sufficient reason for this +apparent mistake. Intense and long-continued heat weakens the action of +the liver, and thus lessens the supply of bile; and red pepper has the +power of stimulating the liver, and so assisting digestion. East Indian +curries, and the Mexican and Spanish _olla_, are therefore founded on +common-sense. + +In France the _pot-au-feu_, or soup-pot, simmers in every peasant or +middle-class home, and is not to be despised even in richer ones. In this +dish, a small portion of meat is cooked so judiciously as to flavor a +large mass of vegetables and broth; and this, served with salad and oil +and bread, forms a meal which can hardly be surpassed in its power of +making the most of every constituent offered. In Germany soups are a +national dish also; but their extreme fondness for pork, especially raw +ham and sausage, is the source of many diseases. Sweden, Norway, +Russia,--all the far northern countries,--tend more and more to the oily +diet of the Esquimaux, fish being a large part of it. There is no room for +other illustrations; but, as you learn the properties of food, you will be +able to read national dietaries, from the Jewish down, with a new +understanding of what power food had and has in forming national +peculiarities. + +It is settled, then, that to renew our muscles which are constantly +wearing out, we must eat the food containing the same constituents; and +these we find in meat, milk, eggs, and the entire gluten of grains, &c, as +in wheaten-grits or oatmeal. + +Fat and heat must come to us from the starches and sugars, in sufficient +supply to "put a layer of wadding between muscles and skin, fill out the +wrinkles, and keep one warm." To find out the proportion needed for one's +own individual constitution, is the first work for all of us. The laborer +requires one thing, the growing child another, the man or woman whose +labor is purely intellectual another; and to understand how best to meet +these needs, demands a knowledge to which most of us have been +indifferent. If there is excess or lack of any necessary element, that +excess or lack means disease, and for such disease we are wholly +responsible. Food is not the only and the universal elixir of life; for +weak or poor blood is often an inheritance, and comes to one tainted by +family diseases, or by defects in air or climate in general. But, even +when outward conditions are most disastrous, perfect food has power to +avert or alter their effects; and the child who begins life burdened with +scrofulous or other diseases, and grows to a pale, weak, unwholesome +youth, and either a swift passing into the next world, or a life here of +hopeless invalidism, can, nine times out of ten, have this course of +things stopped by scientific understanding of what foods are necessary for +such conditions. + +I propose to take the life of one who from babyhood up has been fed on the +best food, perfectly prepared, and to give the tables of such food for +different periods in that life, allowing only such digression as will show +the effects of an opposite course of treatment; thus showing the relations +of food to health,--a more necessary and vital form of knowledge than any +other that the world owns. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE RELATIONS OF FOOD TO HEALTH. + + +We begin, then, with a typical baby, born of civilized parents, and living +in the midst of the best civilization to be had. Savage or even partially +civilized life could never furnish the type we desire. It is true, as we +have seen, that natural laws, so deeply planted that they have become +instincts, have given to many wild nations a dietary meeting their +absolute needs; but only civilization can find the key to these modes, and +make past experience pay tribute to present knowledge. We do not want an +Indian baby, bound and swathed like a little mummy, hanging from the pole +of a wigwam, placidly sucking a fish's tail, or a bone of boiled dog; nor +an Esquimaux baby, with its strip of blubber; nor the Hottentot, with its +rope of jerked beef; nor the South-sea Islander, with its half-cocoanut. +Nor will we admit the average Irish baby, among the laboring classes in +both city and country, brought to the table at three months old to swallow +its portion of coffee or tea; nor the small German, whom at six months I +have seen swallowing its little mug of lager as philosophically as its +serious-faced father. That these babies have fevers and rashes, and a host +of diseases peculiar to that age, is a matter of course; and equally a +matter of course that the round-eyed mother wonders where it got its +dreadful disposition, but scorns the thought that lager or coffee can be +irritants, or that the baby stomach requires but one food, and that one +the universal food of all young animal life,--milk. + +Take, then, our typical baby, lying fresh and sweet in the well aired and +lighted room we suppose to be his birthright. The bones are still soft, +the tender flesh and skin with little or no power of resistance. Muscles, +nerves, all the wonderful tissues, are in process of formation; and in the +strange growth and development of this most helpless yet most precious of +all God's creations, there are certain elements which must be +had,--phosphates to harden the delicate bones; nitrogen for flesh, which +is only developed muscle; carbon,--or sugar and fat, which represent +carbon,--for the whole wonderful course of respiration and circulation. +Water, too, must be in abundance to fill the tiny stomach, which in the +beginning can hold but a spoonful; and to float the blood-corpuscles +through the winding channels whose mysteries, even now, no man has fully +penetrated. Caseine, which is the solid, nourishing, cheesy part of milk, +and abounds in nitrogen, is also needed; and all the salts and alkalies +that we have found to be necessary in forming perfect blood. Let us see if +milk will meet these wants. + + +COMPOSITION OF COW'S MILK. + +(_Supposed to contain 1,000 parts._) + +Water 870.2 +Caseine 44.8 +Butter 31.3 +Sugar 47.7 + ------ +_Carried forward_ 994.0 + +_Brought forward_ 994.0 + +Soda } +Chloride of sodium and potassium} +Phosphate of soda and potassa } +Phosphate of lime } 6.0 +Magnesia } +Iron } +Alkaline carbonates } + ------- + 1,000.0 + +Mother's milk being nearly the same, having only a larger proportion of +water, will for the first year of our baby's life meet every demand the +system can make. Even the first teeth are no sign, as ignorant mothers +believe, that the stomach calls for stronger food. They are known, with +reason, as milk-teeth, and the grinders delay their appearance for months +afterward. A little oatmeal, bread and milk, and various porridges, come +in here, that the bones may harden more rapidly; but that is all. The baby +is in constant motion; and eyes and ears are taking in the mysteries of +the new life, and busy hands testing properties, and little feet walking +into mischief, all day. This is hardly the place to dwell upon the amount +of knowledge acquired from birth to five years of age; yet when you +consider how the mind is reaching in every direction, appropriating, +investigating, drawing conclusions which are the foundation of all our +after-knowledge, you will see that the brain is working with an intensity +never afterwards equaled; and, as brain-work means actual destruction of +brain-fiber, how vital it is that food should be furnished in the right +ratio, and made up of the right elements! + +With the coming of the grinders, and the call of the muscles and tissues +for stronger food, begins the necessity for a more varied dietary. Our +baby now, from two and a half to seven years of age, will require daily:-- + +Bread, not less than 12 ounces. +Butter 1 ounce. +Milk 1/2 pint. +Meat 2 ounces. +Vegetables 6 ounces. +Pudding or gruel 6 ounces. + +This table is made from the dietaries of various children's hospitals, +where long experiment has settled the quantities and qualities necessary +to health, or, as in these cases, recovery from sickness, at which time +the appetite is always keener. + +In many cases physicians who have studied the laws of food, and kept pace +with modern experiments in dietetics, strike out meat altogether till the +child is seven or eight years old, and allow it but once daily after this +time, and in very limited amount. Sir Henry Thompson, one of the most +distinguished of English physicians, and a man noted for his popularity as +diner out and giver of dinners, writes strenuously against the prevailing +excessive use of meat, and especially protests against its over use for +children; and his opinion is shared by most thoughtful medical men. The +nitrogenous vegetables advantageously take its place; and cheese, as +prepared after the formulas given in Mattieu Williams's "Chemistry of +Cookery," is a food the value of which we are but just beginning to +appreciate. + +As to quantity, with the healthy child, playing at will, there need be +very little restraint. Few children will eat too much of perfectly simple +food, such as this table includes. Let cake or pastry or sweetmeats enter +in, and of course, as long as the thing tastes good, the child will beg +for more. English children are confined to this simple diet; and though of +course a less exacting climate has much to do with the greater +healthfulness of the English than the American people, the plain but +hearty and regular diet of childhood has far more. + +Our young American of seven, at a hotel breakfast, would call for coffee +and ham and eggs and sausages and hot cakes. His English cousin would have +no liberty to call for anything. In fact, it is very doubtful if he would +be brought to table at all; and if there, bread and milk or oatmeal and +milk would form his meal. + +By this time I do not doubt our baby has your heartiest pity, and you are +saying, "What! no snacks? no cooky nor cake nor candy? no running to aunt +or grandmother or tender-hearted cook for goodies? If that must be so, +half the pleasure of childhood is lost." + +Perhaps; but suppose that with that pleasure some other things are also +lost. Suppose our baby to have begun life with a nervous, irritable, +sensitive organization, keenly alive to pain, and this hard regimen to +have covered these nerves with firm flesh, and filled the veins with +clean, healthy blood. Suppose headache is unknown, and loss of appetite, +and a bad taste in the mouth, and all the evils we know so well; and that +work and play are easy, and food of the simplest eaten with solid +satisfaction. The child would choose the pleasant taste, and let health +go, naturally; for a child has small reason, and life must be ordered for +it. But if the mother or father has no sense or understanding of the laws +of food, it is useless to hope for the wholesome results that under the +diet of our baby are sure to follow. + +By seven some going to school has begun; and from this time on the diet, +while of the same general character, may vary more from day to day. Habits +of life are fixed during this time; and even if parents dislike certain +articles of food themselves, it is well to give no sign, but as far as +possible, accustom the child to eat any wholesome food. We are a wandering +people, and sooner or later are very likely to have circumnavigated the +globe, at least in part. Our baby must have no antipathies, but every good +thing given by Nature shall at least be tolerated. "I never eat this," or +"I never eat that," is a formula that no educated person has a right to +use save when some food actually hurtful or to which he has a natural +repulsion is presented to him. Certain articles of diet are often +strangely and unaccountably harmful to some. Oysters are an almost deadly +poison to certain constitutions; milk to others. Cheese has produced the +same effect, and even strawberries; yet all these are luxuries to the +ordinary stomach. + +Usually the thing to guard against most carefully is gluttony, so far as +boys are concerned. With girls the tendency often is to eat far too +little. A false delicacy, a feeling that paleness and fragility are +beautiful and feminine, inclines the young girl often to eat less than she +desires; and the stomach accustoms itself to the insufficient supply, till +the reception of a reasonable meal is an impossibility. Or if they eat +improper food (hot breads and much fat and sweets), the same result +follows. Digestion, or rather assimilation, is impossible; and pasty face +and lusterless eyes become the rule. A greedy woman is the exception; and +yet all schoolgirls know the temptation to over-eating produced by a box +of goodies from home, or the stronger temptation, after a school-term has +ended, to ravage all cake-boxes and preserve-jars. Then comes the pill or +powder, and the habit of going to them for a relief which if no excess had +been committed, would have been unnecessary. Patent medicines are the +natural sequence of unwholesome food, and both are outrages on +common-sense. + +We will take it for granted, then, that our baby has come to boyhood and +youth in blissful ignorance of their names or natures. But as we are not +in the least certain what personal tastes he may have developed, or what +form his life-work is to take,--whether professional or mercantile or +artisan in one of the many trades,--we can now only give the regimen best +adapted for each. + +Supposing his tastes to be scholarly, and a college and professional +career to be chosen, the time has come for slight changes in the system of +diet,--very slight, however. It has become a popular saying among thinkers +upon these questions, "Without phosphorus, no thinking;" and like all +arbitrary utterances it has done more harm than good. The amount of +phosphorus passing through the system bears no relation whatever to the +intensity of thought. "A captive lion," to quote from Dr. Chambers, one of +the most distinguished living authorities on diet, "a leopard, or hare, +which can have wonderfully little to think about, assimilates and parts +with a greater quantity of phosphorus than a professor of chemistry +working hard in his laboratory; while a beaver, who always seems to be +contriving something, excretes so little phosphorus that chemical analysis +cannot detect it." + +Phosphatic salts are demanded, but so are other salts, fat, and water; +and the dietaries that order students to live upon fish, eggs, and +oysters, because they are rich in phosphorus, without which the brain +starves, err just so far as they make this the sole reason,--the real +reason being that these articles are all easily digested, and that the +student, leading an inactive muscular life, does not require the heavy, +hearty food of the laborer. + +The most perfect regimen for the intellectual life is precisely what would +be advised for the growing boy: frequent _small_ supplies of +easily-digested food, that the stomach may never be overloaded, or the +brain clouded by the fumes of half-assimilated food. If our boy trains for +a foot-race, rows with the college crew, or goes in for base-ball, his +power as a brain-worker at once diminishes. Strong muscular action and +development hinder continuous mental work; and the literary life, as a +rule, allows no extremes, demanding only mild exercise and temperance as +its foundation-stones. But our boy can well afford to develop his muscular +system so perfectly that his mild exercise would seem to the untrained man +tolerably heavy work. + +The rower in a college crew requires six weeks of training before his +muscular power and endurance have reached their height. Every particle of +superfluous fat must be removed, for fat is not strength, but weakness. +There is a vast difference between the plumpness of good muscular +development and the flabby, heavy overloading of these muscles with rolls +of fat. The chest must be enlarged, that the lungs may have full play, and +be capable of long-continued, extra draughts upon them; and special diet +and special exercise alone can accomplish these ends. All fat-producing +foods are struck out, sugar and all starchy foods coming under this head, +as well as all puddings, pies, cakes, and sweets in general. Our boy, +after a short run, would breakfast on lean, under-done beef or mutton, dry +toast, or the crust of bread, and tea without milk or sugar; would dine on +meat and a little bread and claret, and sup on more meat and toast, with +cresses or some acid fruit, having rowed twice over the course in the +afternoon, steadily increasing the speed, and following it by a bath and +rub. At least nine hours sleep must be had; and with this diet, at the end +of the training-time the muscles are hard and firm, the skin wonderfully +pure and clear, and the capacity for long, steady breathing under +exertion, almost unlimited. No better laws for the reduction of excessive +fat can be laid down for any one. + +Under such a course, severe mental exertion is impossible; and the return +to it requires to be gradual. But light exercise with dumb-bells, &c., +fresh air, walking, and good food are the conditions of all sound mental +work, whether done by man or woman. + +For the clerk or bookkeeper closely confined to desk or counter, much the +same regimen is needed, with brisk exercise at the beginning and end of +the day,--at least always walking rather than riding to and from the +office or store; while in all the trades where hard labor is necessary, +heartier food must be the rule. And for all professions or trades, the +summing-up is the same: suitable food, fresh air, sunlight, and perfect +cleanliness,--the following of these laws insuring the perfect use of +every power to the very end. + +As old age advances, the food-demand lessens naturally. Nourishing food +is still necessary, but taken in much smaller quantities and more often, +in order that the waning powers of the stomach may not be overtaxed. +Living on such principles, work can go on till the time for work is over, +and the long sleep comes as quietly as to a tired child. Simple +common-sense and self-control will free one once for all from the fear, +too often hanging over middle life, of a paralytic and helpless +invalidism, or the long train of apoplectic symptoms often the portion +even of middle life. + +I omit detail as to the character and effects of tea, coffee, alcohol, &c, +such details coming in the chapters on the chemistry of food. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +THE CHEMISTRY OF ANIMAL FOOD. + + +Animal food has a wider range than is usually included under that head. +The vegetarian who announces that no animal food is allowed upon his table +offers a meal in which one finds milk, eggs, butter, and cheese,--all +forms of animal food, and all strongly nourishing. A genuine vegetarian, +if consistent, would be forced to reject all of these; and it has already +been attempted in several large water-cures by enthusiasts who have laid +aside their common-sense, and resigned with it some of the most essential +forces for life and work. Meat may often be entirely renounced, or eaten +only at rare intervals, with great advantage to health and working power, +but the dietary for the varied nourishment which seems demanded must +include butter, cheese, eggs, and milk. + +Meats will be regarded as essential by the majority, and naturally they +come first in considering food; and beef is taken as the standard, being +identical in composition with the structures of the human body. + +BEEF, if properly fed, is in perfection at seven years old. It should then +be a light red on the cut surface, a darker red near the bone, and +slightly marbled with fat. Beef contains, in a hundred parts, nearly +twenty of nitrogen, seventy-two of water, four of fat, and the remainder +in salts of various descriptions. The poorer the quality of the beef, the +more it will waste in cooking; and its appearance before cooking is also +very different from that of the first quality, which, though looking +moist, leaves no stain upon the hand. In poor beef, the watery part seems +to separate from the rest, which lies in a pool of serous bloody fluid. +The gravy from such beef is pale and poor in flavor; while the fat, which +in healthy beef is firm and of a delicate yellow, in the inferior quality +is dark yellow and of rank smell and taste. Beef is firmer in texture and +more satisfying to the stomach than any other form of meat, and is usually +considered more strengthening. + +MUTTON is a trifle more digestible, however. A healthy person would not +notice this, the digestive power in health being more than is necessary +for the ordinary meal; but the dyspeptic will soon find that mutton gives +his stomach less work. Its composition is very nearly the same as that of +beef; and both when cooked, either by roasting or boiling, lose about a +third of their substance, and come to us with twenty-seven parts of +nitrogen, fifteen of fat, fifty-four of water, and three of salty matters. + +Mountain sheep and cattle have the finest-flavored meat, and are also +richest in nitrogenous matter. The mountain mutton of Virginia and North +Carolina is as famous as the English Southdown; but proper feeding +anywhere will make a new thing of the ordinary beef and mutton. When our +cattle are treated with decent humanity,--not driven days with scant food +and water, and then packed into cars with no food and no water, and driven +at last to slaughter feverish and gasping in anguish that we have no right +to permit for one moment,--we may expect tender, wholesome, well-flavored +meat. It is astonishing that under present conditions it can be as good as +it is. + +In well-fed animals, the fat forms about a third of the weight, the +largest part being in the loin. In mutton, one-half is fat; in pork, +three-quarters; while poultry and game have very little. + +The amount of bone varies very greatly. The loin and upper part of the leg +have least; nearly half the entire weight being in the shin, and a tenth +in the carcass. In the best mutton and pork, the bones are smaller, and +fat much greater in proportion to size. + +VEAL and LAMB, like all young meats, are much less digestible than beef or +mutton. Both should have very white, clear fat; and if that about the +kidneys is red or discolored, the meat should be rejected. Veal has but +sixteen parts of nitrogenous matter to sixty-three of water, and the bones +contain much more gelatine than is found in older animals. But in all +bones much useful carbon and nitrogen is found; three pounds of bone +yielding as much carbon, and six pounds as much nitrogen, as one pound of +meat. Carefully boiled, this nutriment can all be extracted, and flavored +with vegetables, form the basis of an endless variety of soups. + +PORK is of all meats the most difficult to digest, containing as it does +so large a proportion of fat. In a hundred parts of the meat, only nine of +nitrogen are found, fat being forty-eight and water thirty-nine, with but +two of salty matters. Bacon properly cured is much more digestible than +pork, the smoke giving it certain qualities not existing in uncured pork. +No food has yet been found which can take its place for army and navy use +or in pioneering. Beef when salted or smoked loses much of its virtue, +and eight ounces of fat pork will give nearly three times as much carbon +or heat-food as the same amount of beef; but its use is chiefly for the +laborer, and it should have only occasional place in the dietary of +sedentary persons. + +The pig is liable to many most unpleasant diseases, measles and trichina +spiralis being the most fatal to the eaters of meat thus affected; but the +last--a small animalcule of deadly effect if taken alive into the human +stomach, as is done in eating raw ham or sausage--becomes harmless if the +same meat is long and thoroughly boiled. Never be tempted into eating raw +ham or sausage; and in using pork in any form, try to have some knowledge +of the pig. A clean, well-fed pig in a well-kept stye is a wonderfully +different object from the hideous beast grunting its way in many a +Southern or Western town, feeding on offal and sewage, and rolling in +filth. Such meat is unfit for human consumption, and the eating of it +insures disease. + +We come now to another form of meat, that of edible ENTRAILS. This +includes _Tripe_, _Haslet_, or lights, &c. More nitrogen is found here +than in any other portion of the meat. The cheap and abundant supply in +this country has made us, as a people, reject all but the liver. In the +country, the sweetbreads or pancreas are often thrown away, and tripe +also. The European peasant has learned to utilize every scrap; and while +such use should not be too strongly urged, it is certain that this meat is +far better than _no_ meat. Fully one-third of the animals' weight comes +under this head,--that is, feet, tail, head, and tongue, lungs, liver, +spleen, omentum, pancreas, and heart, together with the intestines. The +rich man is hardly likely to choose much of this food, the tongue and +sweetbreads being the only dainty bits; but there are wholesome and savory +dishes to be made from every part, and the knowledge of their preparation +may be of greatest value to a poorer neighbor. Both ox-tails and head make +excellent soup. Tripe, the inner lining of the stomach, is, if properly +prepared, not only appetizing but pleasant to the eye. Calves' feet make +good jelly; and pigs' feet, ears, and head are soused or made into +scrapple. Blood-puddings are much eaten by Germans, but we are not likely +to adopt their use. Fresh blood has, however, been found of wonderful +effect for consumptive patients; and there are certain slaughter-houses in +our large cities where every day pale invalids are to be found waiting for +the goblet of almost living food from the veins of the still warm animal. +Horrible as it seems, the taste for it is soon acquired; and certainly the +good results warrant at least the effort to acquire it. + +VENISON comes next in the order of meats, but is more like game than any +ordinary butchers' meat. It is lean, dark in color, and savory, and if +well cooked, very digestible. + +POULTRY are of more importance to us than game, and the flesh, containing +less nitrogen, is not so stimulating as beef or mutton. Old fowls are +often tough and indigestible, and have often, also, a rank flavor like a +close hen-house, produced by the absorption into the flesh of the oil +intended by nature to lubricate the feathers. + +GAME contains even less fat than poultry, and is considered more +strengthening. The flesh of rabbits and hares is more like poultry or game +than meat, but is too close in fiber to be as digestible. Pigeons and many +other birds come under none of the heads given. As a rule, flesh is +tender in proportion to the smallness of the animal, and many varieties +are eaten for the description of which we have no room here. + +FISH forms the only animal food for a large part of the world. It does not +possess the satisfying or stimulating properties belonging to flesh, yet +the inhabitants of fishing-towns are shown to be unusually strong and +healthy. The flesh of some fish is white, and of others red; the red +holding much more oil, and being therefore less digestible. In _Salmon_, +the most nutritious of all fishes, there are, in a hundred parts, sixteen +of nitrogen, six of fat, nearly two of saline matter, and seventy-seven of +water. _Eels_ contain thirteen parts of fat. _Codfish_, the best-known of +all the white fish, vary greatly, according to the time of year in which +they are taken, being much more digestible in season than out (i.e., from +October to May). _Mackerel_ and _Herring_ both abound in oil, the latter +especially, giving not only relish to the Irishman's potato, but the +carbon he needs as heat-food. _Shell-fish_ are far less digestible, the +_Oyster_ being the only exception. The nitrogenous matter in oysters is +fourteen parts, of fatty matter one and a half, of saline matter two, and +of water eighty. At the time of spawning--from May to September--they lose +their good condition, and become unwholesome. _Lobsters_ rank next in +importance, and are more delicate and finer-flavored than _Crabs_. Both +are, however, very difficult of digestion, and should only be used +occasionally. The many forms of pickled and smoked fish are convenient, +but always less wholesome than fresh. + +MILK comes next, and has already been considered in a previous chapter. It +is sometimes found to disagree with the stomach, but usually because +looked upon as drink and not as real food, the usual supply of which is +taken, forgetful of the fact that a glass or two of milk contains as much +nourishment as two-thirds of the average meal. The nitrogenous matter in +milk is known as caseine, and it is this which principally forms cheese. + +CHEESE is commonly considered only a relish, but is in reality one of the +most condensed forms of nitrogenous food; and a growing knowledge of its +value has at last induced the Army Department to add it to the army ration +list. Mattieu Williams, after giving the chemical formulas of caseine and +the other elements of cheese, writes; "I have good and sufficient reasons +for thus specifying the properties of this constituent of food. I regard +it as the most important of all that I have to describe in connection with +my subject,--The Science of Cookery. It contains, as I shall presently +show, more nutritious material than any other food that is ordinarily +obtainable, and its cookery is singularly neglected,--practically an +unknown art, especially in this country. We commonly eat it raw, although +in its raw state it is peculiarly indigestible, and in the only cooked +form familiarly known among us here, that of Welsh rabbit or rare-bit, it +is too often rendered still more indigestible, though this need not be the +case. Cream-cheese is the richest form, but keeps less well than that of +milk. Stilton, the finest English brand, is made partly of cream, partly +of milk, and so with various other foreign brands, Gruyere, &c. Parmesan +is delicately flavored with fine herbs, and retains this flavor almost +unaltered by age. Our American cheeses now rank with the best foreign +ones, and will grow more and more in favor as their value is understood, +this being their strongly nitrogenous character. A cheese of twenty +pounds weight contains as much food as a sheep weighing sixty pounds, as +it hangs in the butcher's shop. In Dutch and factory cheeses, where the +curd has been precipitated by hydrochloric acid, the food value is less +than where rennet is used; but even in this case, it is far beyond meat in +actual nutritive power." + +BUTTER is a purely carbonaceous or heat-giving food, being the fatty part +of the milk, which rises in cream. It is mentioned in the very earliest +history, and the craving for it seems to be universal. Abroad it is eaten +without salt; but to keep it well, salt is a necessity, and its absence +soon allows the development of a rank and unpleasant odor. In other words, +butter without it becomes rancid; and if any particle of whey is allowed +to remain in it, the same effect takes place. + +Perfect butter is golden in color, waxy in consistency, and with a +sweetness of odor quite indescribable, yet unmistakable to the trained +judge of butter. It possesses the property of absorption of odors in a +curious degree; and if shut in a tight closet or a refrigerator with fish, +meat, or vegetables of rank or even pronounced smell, exchanges its own +delicate aroma for theirs, and reaches us bereft once for all of what is +the real charm of perfect butter. For this reason absolute cleanliness and +daintiness of vessels containing milk or cream, or used in any way in the +manufacture of butter, is one of the first laws of the dairy. + +_Ghee_, the East-Indian form of butter, is simply fresh butter clarified +by melting, and is used as a dressing for the meal of rice. Butter, though +counted as a pure fat, is in reality made up of at least six fatty +principles, there being sixty-eight per cent of margarine and thirty per +cent of oleine, the remainder being volatile compounds of fatty acids. In +the best specimens of butter there is a slight amount of caseine, not over +five per cent at most, though in poor there is much more. It is the only +fat which may be constantly eaten without harm to the stomach, though if +not perfectly good it becomes an irritant. + +The _Drippings_ of roasted meat, more especially of beef, rank next in +value; and _Lard_ comes last on the list, its excessive use being a +serious evil. Eaten constantly, as in pastry or the New-England doughnut, +it is not only indigestible, but becomes the source of forms of scrofulous +disease. It is often a convenient substitute for butter, but if it must be +used, would better be in connection with the harmless fat. + +Eggs come last; and as a young animal is developed from them, it follows +that they contain all that is necessary for animal life, though in the +case of the chicken the shell also is used, all the earthy matter being +absorbed. In a hundred parts are found fourteen of nitrogen, ten and a +half of fatty matter, one and a half of saline matter, and seventy-four of +water. Of this water the largest part is contained in the white, which is +almost pure albumen, each particle of albumen being enclosed in very +thin-walled cells; it is the breaking of these cells and the admission of +air that enables one to beat the white of egg to a stiff froth. The fat is +accumulated in the yolk, often amounting to thirty per cent. Raw and +lightly-boiled eggs are easy of digestion, but hard-boiled ones decidedly +not so. An egg loses its freshness within a day or so. The shell is +porous; and the always-feeding and destroying oxygen of the air quickly +gains admission, causing a gradual decomposition. To preserve them, they +must be coated with lard or gum, or packed in either salt or oats, points +down. In this way they keep good a long time, and while hardly desirable +to eat as boiled eggs, answer for many purposes in cooking. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE CHEMISTRY OF VEGETABLE FOOD. + + +We come now to the vegetable kingdom, the principal points that we are to +consider arranging themselves somewhat as follows:-- + +Farinaceous seeds, +Oleaginous seeds, +Leguminous seeds, +Tubers and roots, +Herbaceous articles, +Fruits, +Saccharine and farinaceous preparations. + +Under the first head, that of farinaceous seeds, are included wheat, rye, +oats, Indian corn, rice, and a variety of less-known grains, all +possessing in greater or less degree the same constituents. It will be +impossible to more than touch upon many of them; and wheat must stand as +the representative, being the best-known and most widely used of all +grains. Each one is made up of nitrogenous compounds, gluten, albumen, +caseine, and fibrine, gluten being the most valuable. Starch, dextrine, +sugar, and cellulose are also found; fatty matter, which gives the +characteristic odor of grain; mineral substances, as phosphates of lime +and magnesia, salts of potash and soda, and silica, which we shall shortly +mention again. + +_Hard Wheat_, or that grown in hot climates and on fertile soil, has much +more nitrogen than that of colder countries. In hard wheat, in a hundred +parts, twenty-two will be of nitrogen, fifty-nine starch, ten dextrine, +&c, four cellulose, two and a half of fatty matter, and three of mineral, +thus giving many of the constituents found in animal food. + +This wheat is taken as bread, white or brown, biscuits, crackers, various +preparations of the grain whether whole or crushed, and among the Italians +as _macaroni_, the most condensed form of cereal food. The best macaroni +is made from the red wheat grown along the Mediterranean Sea, a hot summer +and warm climate producing a grain, rich, as already mentioned, in +nitrogen, and with a smaller proportion of water than farther north. The +intense though short summer of our own far North-west seems to bring +somewhat the same result, but the outer husk is harder. This husk was for +years considered a necessity in all really nutritious bread; and a +generation of vegetarians taking their name from Dr. Graham, and known as +Grahamites, conceived the idea of living upon the wheaten flour in which +husk and kernel were ground together. Now, to stomachs and livers brought +to great grief by persistent pie and doughnuts and some other New-England +wickednesses, these husks did a certain office of stimulation, stirring up +jaded digestions, and really seeming to arrest or modify long-standing +dyspepsia. But they did not know what we do, that this outer husk is a +layer of pure silica, one of the hardest of known minerals. Boil it six +weeks, and it comes out unchanged. Boil it six years, or six centuries, +and the result would be the same. You can not stew a grindstone or bring +granite to porridge, and the wheat-husk is equally obstinate. So long as +enthusiasts ate husk and kernel ground together, little harm was done. But +when a more progressive soul declared that in bran alone the true +nutriment lay, and a host of would-be healthier people proceeded to eat +bran and preach bran, there came a time when eating and preaching both +stopped, from sheer want of strength to go on. The enthusiasts were +literally starving themselves to death--for starvation is by no means mere +deprivation of food: on the contrary, a man may eat heartily to the day of +his death, and feel no inconvenience, so far as any protest of the stomach +is concerned, yet the verdict of the wise physician would be, "Died of +starvation." If the food was unsuitable, and could not be assimilated, +this was inevitable. Blood, muscle, nerve--each must have its fitting +food; and thus it is easy to see why knowledge is the first condition of +healthful living. The moral is: Never rashly experiment in diet till sure +what you are about, and, if you can not for yourselves find out the nature +of your projected food, call upon some one who can. + +Where wheat is ground whole, it includes six and a half parts of +heat-producers to one of flesh-formers. The amount of starch varies +greatly. Two processes of making flour are now in use,--one the old, or +St. Louis process; the other, the "new process," giving Haxall flour. In +the former, grindstones were used, which often reached so great a degree +of heat as to injure the flour; and repeated siftings gave the various +grades. In the new, the outer husk is rejected, and a system of knives is +used, which chop the grain to powder, and it is claimed do not heat it. +The product is more starchy, and for this reason less desirable. We eat +far too much heat-producing food, and any thing which gives us the gluten +of the grain is more wholesome, and thus "seconds" is really a more +nutritious flour than the finer grades. Try for yourselves a small +experiment, and you will learn the nature of flour better than in pages of +description. + +Take a little flour; wet it with cold water enough to form a dough. Place +it on a sieve, and, while working it with one hand, pour a steady stream +of water over it with another. Shortly you will find a grayish, tough, +elastic lump before you, while in the pan below, when the water is +carefully poured off, will be pure wheat-starch, the water itself +containing all the sugar, dextrine or gum, and mineral matter. This +toughness and elasticity of gluten is an important quality; for in +bread-making, were it not for the gluten, the carbonic-acid gas formed by +the action of yeast on dough would all escape. But, though it works its +way out vigorously enough to swell up each cell, the gluten binds it fast, +and enables us to have a panful of light "sponge," where a few hours +before was only a third of a pan. + +Starch, as you have seen, will not dissolve in the cold water. Dry it, +after the water is poured on, and minute grains remain. Look at these +grains under a microscope, and each one is cased in a thick skin, which +cold water can not dissolve. In boiling water, the skins crack, and the +inside swells and becomes gummy. Long boiling is thus an essential for all +starchy foods. + +Bread proper is simply flour, water, and salt, mixed to a firm dough and +baked. Such bread as this, Abram gave to his angelic guests, and at this +day the Bedouin Arab bakes it on his heated stone. But bread, as we +understand it, is always lightened by the addition of yeast or some form +of baking-powder, yeast making the most wholesome as well as most +palatable bread. Carbonic-acid gas is the active agent required; and yeast +so acts upon the little starch-granules, which the microscope shows as +forming the finest flour, that this gas is formed and evenly distributed +through the whole dough. The process is slow, and in the action some of +the natural sweetness of the flour is lost. In what is known as aerated +bread, the gas made was forced directly into the dough, by means of a +machine invented for the purpose; and a very scientific and very good +bread it is. But it demands an apparatus not to be had save at great +expense, and the older fashions give a sufficiently sweet and desirable +bread. + +_Rye_ and _Indian Corn_ form the next best-known varieties of flour in +bread-making; but barley and oats are also used, and beans, pease, rice, +chestnuts, in short, any farinaceous seed, or legume rich in starch, can +fill the office. + +_Oatmeal_ may take rank as one of the best and most digestible forms of +farinaceous food. Some twenty-eight per cent of the grain is husk, +seventy-two being kernel; and this kernel forms a meal containing twelve +parts of nitrogenous matter, sixty-three of carbo-hydrates, five and a +half of fatty matter, three of saline, and fifteen of water. So little +gluten is found, that the flour of oats can not be made into loaves of +bread; although, mixed and baked as thin cakes, it forms a large part of +the Scotchman's food. It requires thorough cooking, and is then slightly +laxative and very easily digested. + +_Buckwheat_ is very rich in nitrogenous substances, and as we eat it, in +the form of cakes with butter and sirup, so heating a food, as to be only +suitable for hard workers in cold weather. + +Indian corn has also a very small proportion of gluten, and thus makes a +bread which crumbles too readily. But it is the favorite form of bread, +not only for South and West in our own country, but in Spanish America, +Southern Europe, Germany, and Ireland. It contains a larger amount of +fatty matter than any other grain, this making it a necessity in fattening +animals. In a hundred parts are eleven of nitrogen, sixty-five of +carbo-hydrates, eight of fatty matter, one and a half of saline, and +fourteen of water. The large amount of fatty matter makes it difficult to +keep much meal on hand, as it grows rancid and breeds worms; and it is +best that it should be ground in small quantities as required. + +_Rice_ abounds in starch. In a hundred parts are found seven and a half of +nitrogen, eighty-eight of starch, one of dextrine, eight-tenths of fatty +matter, one of cellulose, and nine-tenths of mineral matter. Taken alone +it can not be called a nutritive food; but eaten with butter or milk and +eggs, or as by the East Indians in curry, it holds an important place. + +We come now to OLEAGINOUS SEEDS; nuts, the cocoanut, almonds, &c, coming +under this head. While they are rich in oil, this very fact makes them +indigestible, and they should be eaten sparingly. + +_Olive-oil_ must find mention here. No fat of either the animal or +vegetable kingdom surpasses this in delicacy and purity. Palm-oil fills +its place with the Asiatics in part; but the olive has no peer in this +respect, and we lose greatly in our general distaste for this form of +food. The liking for it should be encouraged as decidedly as the liking +for butter. It is less heating, more soothing to the tissues, and from +childhood to old age its liberal use prevents many forms of disease, as +well as equalizes digestion in general. + +LEGUMINOUS SEEDS are of more importance, embracing as they do the whole +tribe of beans, pease, and lentils. Twice as much nitrogen is found in +beans as in wheat; and they rank so near to animal food, that by the +addition of a little fat they practically can take its place. Bacon and +beans have thus been associated for centuries, and New England owes to +Assyria the model for the present Boston bean-pot. In the best table-bean, +either Lima or the butter-bean, will be found in a hundred parts, thirty +of nitrogen, fifty-six of starch, one and a half of cellulose, two of +fatty matter, three and a half of saline, and eight and a half of water. +The proportion of nitrogen is less in pease, but about the same in +lentils. The chestnut also comes under this head, and is largely eaten in +Spain and Italy, either boiled, or dried and ground into flour. + +TUBERS and ROOTS follow, and of these the _Potato_ leads the van. Low as +you may have noticed their standing on the food-table to be, they are the +most economical and valuable of foods, combining as well with others, and +as little cloying to the palate, as bread itself. Each pound of potatoes +contains seven hundred and seventy grains of carbon, and twenty-four +grains of nitrogen; each pound of wheat-flour, two thousand grains of +carbon, and one hundred and twenty of nitrogen. But the average cost of +the pound of potatoes is but one cent; that of the pound of wheat, four. +It is obtainable at all seasons, and thus invaluable as a permanent store, +though best in the winter. Spring, the germinating season, diminishes its +nutritive value. New potatoes are less nutritious than older ones, and in +cooking, if slightly underdone, are said to satisfy the appetite better; +this being the reason why the laboring classes prefer them, as they say, +"with a bone in them." + +In a hundred parts are found but two of nitrogen, eighteen of starch, +three of sugar, two-tenths of fat, seven-tenths of saline matter, and +seventy-five parts of water. The _Sweet-potato_, _Yam_, and _Artichoke_ +are all of the same character. Other _Tubers_, the _Turnip_, _Beet_, +_Carrot_, and _Parsnip_, are in ordinary use. The turnip is nine-tenths +water, but possesses some valuable qualities. The beet, though also +largely water, has also a good deal of sugar, and is excellent food. +Carrots and parsnips are much alike in composition. Carrots are generally +rejected as food, but properly cooked are very appetizing, their greatest +use, however, being in soups and stews. + +HERBACEOUS ARTICLES follow; and, though we are not accustomed to consider +_Cabbage_ as an herb, it began existence as cole-wort, a shrub or herb on +the south coast of England. Cultivation has developed it into a firm round +head; and as a vegetable, abounding as it does in nitrogen, it ranks next +to beans as a food. _Cauliflower_ is a very delicate and highly prized +form of cabbage, but cabbage itself can be so cooked as to strongly +resemble it. + +_Onions_ are next in value, being much milder and sweeter when grown in a +warm climate, but used chiefly as a flavoring. _Lettuce_ and _Celery_ are +especially valuable; the former for salads, the latter to be eaten without +dressing though it is excellent cooked. _Tomatoes_ are really a fruit, +though eaten as a vegetable, and are of especial value as a cooling food. +Egg-plant, cucumbers, &c., all demand space; and so with edible fungi, +mushrooms, and truffles, the latter the property of the epicure, and +really not so desirable as that fact would indicate. + +FRUITS are last in order; and among these stands first of all the apple. +While in actual analysis fruits have less nutritive value than vegetables, +their acids and salts give to them the power of counteracting the +unhealthy states brought about by the long use of dried or salted +provisions. They are a corrective also of the many evils arising from +profuse meat-eating, the citric acid of lemons and grape-fruit being an +antidote to rheumatic and gouty difficulties. Cold storage now enables one +to command grapes long after their actual season has ended, and they are +invaluable food. The brain-worker is learning to depend more and more on +fruit in all its forms; and apples lead the list, containing more solid +nutriment than any other form. While considered less digestible raw than +baked, they are still one of the most attractive, life-giving forms of +food, and if eaten daily would prove a standard antidote to patent +medicine. The list of fruits is too long for mention here; but all have +their specific uses, and are necessary to perfect health. + +SUGAR and HONEY follow in the stores of the vegetable kingdom. Cane-sugar +and glucose, or grape-sugar, are the two recognized varieties, though the +making of beet-sugar has become an industry here as well as in France. +Grape-sugar requires to be used in five times the amount of cane, to +secure the same degree of sweetness. Honey also is a food,--a concentrated +solution of sugar, mixed with odorous, gummy, and waxy matters. It +possesses much the same food value as sugar, and is easily digested. + +With the various FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS, _Sago_, _Tapioca_,_ +Arrow-root_, &c, the vegetable dietary ends. All are light, digestible +foods, principally starchy in character, but with little nutriment unless +united with milk or eggs. Their chief use is in the sick-room. + +Restricted as comment must be, each topic introduced will well reward +study; and the story of each of these varied ingredients in cookery, if +well learned, will give one an unsuspected range of thought, and a new +sense of the wealth that may be hidden in very common things. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +CONDIMENTS AND BEVERAGES. + + +Condiments are simply seasoning or flavoring agents, and, though hardly +coming under the head of food, yet have an important part to play. As food +by their use is rendered more tempting, a larger amount is consumed, and +thus a delicate or uncertain appetite is often aided. In some cases they +have the power of correcting the injurious character of some foods. + +Salt stands foremost. Vinegar, lemon-juice, and pickles owe their value to +acidity; while mustard, pepper black and red, ginger, curry-powder, and +horse-radish all depend chiefly upon pungency. Under the head of aromatic +condiments are ranged cinnamon, nutmegs, cloves, allspice, mint, thyme, +fennel, sage, parsley, vanilla, leeks, onions, shallots, garlic, and +others, all of them entering into the composition of various sauces in +general use. + +Salt is the one thing indispensable. The old Dutch law condemned criminals +to a diet of unsalted food, the effects being said to be those of the +severest physical torture. Years ago an experiment tried near Paris +demonstrated the necessity of its use. A number of cattle were fed without +the ration of salt; an equal number received it regularly. At the end of a +specified time, the unsalted animals were found rough of coat, the hair +falling off in spots, the eyes wild, and the flesh hardly half the amount +of those naturally fed. + +A class of extreme Grahamites in this country decry the use of salt, as +well as of any form of animal food; and I may add that the expression of +their thought in both written and spoken speech is as savorless as their +diet. + +Salt exists, as we have already found, in the blood: the craving for it is +a universal instinct, even buffaloes making long journeys across the +plains to the salt-licks; and its use not only gives character to insipid +food, but increases the flow of the gastric juice. + +Black pepper, if used profusely as is often done in American cooking, +becomes an irritant, and produces indigestion. Red pepper, or cayenne, on +the contrary, is a useful stimulant at times; but, as with mustard, any +over-use irritates the lining of the stomach. + +So with spices and sweet herbs. There should be only such use of them as +will flavor well, delicately, and almost imperceptibly. No one flavor +should predominate, and only a sense of general savoriness rule. Extracts, +as of vanilla, lemon, bitter almond, &c., should be used with the greatest +care, and if possible always be added to an article after it cools, as the +heat wastes the strength. + + +BEVERAGES. + +Tea and coffee are the most universal drinks, after water. The flavor of +both is due to a principle, _theine_ in tea, _caffeine_ in coffee, in +which both the good and the ill effects of these drinks are bound up. It +is hardly necessary the principles should have different names, as they +have been found by chemists to be identical; the essential spirit of cocoa +and chocolate,--_theobromine_,--though not identical, having many of the +same properties. + +_Tea_ is valuable chiefly for its warming and comforting qualities. Taken +in moderation, it acts partly as a sedative, partly as a stimulant, +arresting the destruction of tissue, and seeming to invigorate the whole +nervous system. The water in it, even if impure, is made wholesome by +boiling, and the milk and sugar give a certain amount of real nourishment. +Nervous headaches are often cured by it, and it has, like coffee, been +used as an antidote in opium-poisoning. + +Pass beyond the point of moderation, and it becomes an irritant, precisely +in the same way that an overdose of morphine will, instead of putting to +sleep, for just so much longer time prevent any sleep at all. The woman +who can not eat, and who braces her nerves with a cup of green tea,--the +most powerful form of the herb,--is doing a deeper wrong than she may be +able to believe. The immediate effect is delightful. Lightness, +exhilaration, and sense of energy are all there; but the re-action comes +surely, and only a stronger dose next time accomplishes the end desired. +Nervous headaches, hysteria in its thousand forms, palpitations, and the +long train of nervous symptoms, own inordinate tea and coffee drinking as +their parent. Taken in reasonable amounts, tea can not be said to be +hurtful; and the medium qualities, carefully prepared, often make a more +wholesome tea than that of the highest price, the harmful properties being +strongest in the best. If the water is soft, it should be used as soon as +boiled, boiling causing all the gases which give flavor to water to +escape. In hard water, boiling softens it. In all cases the water must be +fresh, and poured boiling upon the proper portion of tea,--the teapot +having first been well scalded with boiling water. Never boil any tea but +English-breakfast tea; for all others, simple steeping gives the drink in +perfection. + +A disregard of these rules gives one the rank, black, unpleasant infusion +too often offered as tea; while, if boiled in tin, it becomes a species of +slow poison,--the tannic acid in the tea acting upon the metal, and +producing a chemical compound whose character it is hard to determine. +Various other plants possess the essential principle of tea, and are used +as such; as in Paraguay, where the Brazilian holly is dried, and makes a +tea very exhilarating in quality, but much more astringent. + +The use of _Coffee_ dates back even farther than that of tea. Of the many +varieties, Mocha and Java are finest in flavor, and a mixture of one-third +Mocha with two-thirds Java gives the drink at its best. As in tea, there +are three chief constituents: (1) A volatile oil, giving the aroma it +possesses, but less in amount than that in tea. (2) Astringent matter,--a +modification of tannin, but also less than in tea. (3) Caffeine, now found +identical with theine, but varying in amount in different varieties of +coffee,--being in some three or four per cent, in others less. + +The most valuable property of coffee is its power of relieving the +sensation of hunger and fatigue. To the soldier on active service, nothing +can take its place; and in our own army it became the custom often, not +only to drink the infusion, but, if on a hard march, to eat the grounds +also. In all cases it diminishes the waste of tissue. In hot weather it is +too heating and stimulating, acting powerfully upon the liver, and, by +producing over-activity of that organ, bringing about a general +disturbance. + +So many adulterations are found in ground coffee, that it is safest for +the real coffee-lover to buy the bean whole. Roasting is usually more +perfectly done at the grocers', in their rotary roasters, which give every +grain its turn; but, by care and constant stirring, it can be accomplished +at home. Too much boiling dissipates the delicious aroma we all know; and +the best methods are considered to be those which allow no boiling, after +boiling water has been poured upon it, but merely a standing, to infuse +and settle. The old fashion, however, of mixing with an egg, and boiling a +few minutes, makes a coffee hardly inferior in flavor. In fact, the +methods are many, but results, under given conditions, much the same; and +we may choose urn, or old-fashioned tin pot, or a French biggin, with the +certainty that good coffee, well roasted, boiling water, and good judgment +as to time, will give always a delicious drink. Make a note of the fact +that long boiling sets free tannic acid, powerful enough to literally tan +the coats of the stomach, and bring on incurable dyspepsia. Often coffee +without milk can be taken, where, with milk, it proves harmful; but, in +all cases, moderation must rule. Taken too strong, palpitation of the +heart, vertigo, and fainting are the usual consequences. + +_Cocoa_, or, literally, cacao, from the cacao-tree, comes in the form of a +thick seed, twenty or thirty of which make up the contents of a gourd-like +fruit, the spaces between being filled with a somewhat acid pulp. The +seeds, when freed from this pulp by various processes, are first dried in +the sun, and then roasted; and from these roasted seeds come various forms +of cocoa. + +_Cocoa-shells_ are the outer husk, and by long boiling yield a pleasant +and rather nutritious drink. Cocoa itself is the nut ground to powder, and +sometimes mixed with sugar, the husk being sometimes ground with it. + +In _Chocolate_--a preparation of cocoa--the cocoa is carefully dried and +roasted, and then ground to a smooth paste, the nuts being placed on a hot +iron plate, and so keeping the oily matter to aid in forming a paste. +Sugar and flavorings, as vanilla, are often added, and the whole pressed +into cakes. The whole substance of the nut being used, it is exceedingly +nutritious, and made more so by the milk and sugar added. Eaten with bread +it forms not only a nourishing but a hearty meal; and so condensed is its +form, that a small cake carried in traveling, and eaten with a cracker or +two, will give temporarily the effect of a full meal. + +In a hundred parts of chocolate are found forty-eight of fatty matter or +cocoa-butter, twenty-one of nitrogenous matter, four of theobromine, +eleven of starch, three of cellulose, three of mineral matter, and ten of +water; there being also traces of coloring matter, aromatic essence, and +sugar. Twice as much nitrogenous, and twenty-five times as much fatty +matter as wheaten flour, make it a valuable food, though the excess of fat +will make it disagree with a very delicate stomach. + +_Alcohol_ is last upon our list, and scientific men are still uncertain +whether or not it can in any degree be considered as a food; but we have +no room for the various arguments for and against. You all know, in part +at least, the effects of intemperance; and even the moderate daily drinker +suffers from clouded mind, irritable nerves, and ruined digestion. + +This is not meant as an argument for total abstinence; but there are cases +where such abstinence is the only rule. In an inherited tendency to drink, +there is no other safe road; but to the man or woman who lives by law, and +whose body is in the best condition, wine in its many forms is a +permissible _occasional_ luxury, and so with beer and cider and the wide +range of domestic drinks. In old age its use is almost essential, but +always in moderation, individual temperament modifying every rule, and +making the best knowledge an imperative need. A little alcoholic drink +increases a delicate appetite: a great deal diminishes or takes it away +entirely, and also hinders and in many cases stops digestion altogether. +In its constant over-use the membranes of the stomach are gradually +destroyed, and every organ in the body suffers. In ales and beers there is +not only alcohol, but much nitrogenous and sugary matter, very fattening +in its nature. A light beer, well flavored with hops, is an aid to +digestion, but taken in excess produces biliousness. The long list of +alcoholic products it is not necessary to give, nor is it possible to +enter into much detail regarding alcohol itself; but there are one or two +points so important that they can not be passed by. + +You will recall in a preceding chapter the description of the circulation +of the blood, and of its first passage through veins and arteries for +cleansing, before a second round could make it food for the whole complex +nervous system. Alcohol taken in excess, it has been proved in countless +experiments by scientific men, possesses the power of coagulating the +blood. The little corpuscles adhere in masses, and cannot force themselves +through the smaller vessels, and circulation is at once hindered. This, +however, is the secondary stage. At first, as many of you have had +occasion to notice, the face flushes, the eyes grow brighter, and thought +and word both come more freely. The heart beats far more rapidly, and the +speed increases in proportion to the amount of alcohol absorbed. The +average number of beats of the heart, allowing for its slower action +during sleep, is 100,000 beats per day. Under a small supply of alcohol +this rose to 127,000, and in actual intoxication to 131,000. + +The flush upon the cheek is only a token of the same fact within; every +organ is congested. The brain has been examined under such circumstances, +and "looked as if injected with vermilion ... the membrane covering both +brains resembling a delicate web of coagulated red blood, so tensely were +its fine vessels engorged." + +At a later stage the muscular power is paralyzed, the rule of mind over +body suspended, and a heavy, brutal sleep comes, long or short according +to the amount taken. This is the extreme of alcoholism, and death the only +ending to it, as a habitual condition. Alcohol seems a necessary evil; for +that its occasional beneficence can modify or neutralize the long list of +woe and crime and brutality following in its train, is more than doubtful. + +"Whatever good can come from alcohol, or whatever evil, is all included in +that primary physiological and luxurious action of the agent upon the +nervous supply of the circulation.... If it be really a luxury for the +heart to be lifted up by alcohol, for the blood to course more swiftly +through the brain, for the thoughts to flow more vehemently, for words to +come more fluently, for emotions to rise ecstatically, and for life to +rush on beyond the pace set by nature; then those who enjoy the luxury +must enjoy it--with the consequences." + +And now, at the end of our talks together, friends, there is yet another +word. Much must remain unsaid in these narrow limits; but they are wide +enough, I hope, to have given the key by which you may find easy entrance +to the mysteries we all may know, indeed must, if our lives are truly +lived. If through intemperance, in meat or drink, in feeling or thought, +you lessen bodily or mental power, you alone are accountable, whether +ignorant or not. Only in a never-failing self-control can safety ever be. +Temperance is the foundation of high living; and here is its definition, +by one whose own life holds it day by day:-- + +"Temperance is personal cleanliness; is modesty; is quietness; is +reverence for one's elders and betters; is deference to one's mother and +sisters; is gentleness; is courage; is the withholding from all which +leads to excess in daily living; is the eating and drinking only of that +which will insure the best body which the best soul is to inhabit: nay, +temperance is all these, and more." + + + + +_PART II._ + + + + +STOCK AND SEASONING. + + +The preparation called STOCK is for some inscrutable reason a +stumbling-block to average cooks, and even by experienced housekeepers is +often looked upon as troublesome and expensive. Where large amounts of +fresh meat are used in its preparation, the latter adjective might be +appropriate; but stock in reality is the only mode by which every scrap of +bone or meat, whether cooked or uncooked, can be made to yield the last +particle of nourishment contained in it. Properly prepared and strained +into a stone jar, it will keep a week, and is as useful in the making of +hashes and gravies as in soup itself. + +The first essential is a tightly-covered kettle, either tinned iron or +porcelain-lined, holding not less than two gallons; three being a +preferable size. Whether cooked or uncooked meat is used, it should be cut +into small bits, and all bones broken or sawn into short pieces, that the +marrow may be easily extracted. + +To every pound of meat and bone allow one quart of cold water, one even +teaspoon of salt, and half a saltspoon of pepper. Let the meat stand till +the water is slightly colored with its juice; then put upon the fire, and +let it come slowly to a boil, skimming off every particle of scum as it +rises. The least neglect of this point will give a broth in which bits of +dark slime float about, unpleasant to sight and taste. A cup of cold +water, thrown in as the kettle boils, will make the scum rise more freely. +Let it boil steadily, but very slowly, allowing an hour to each pound of +meat. The water will boil away, leaving, at the end of the time specified, +not more than half or one-third the original amount. In winter this will +become a firm jelly, which can be used by simply melting it, thus +obtaining a strong, clear broth; or can be diluted with an equal quantity +of water, and vegetables added for a vegetable soup. + +The meat used in stock, if boiled the full length of time given, has +parted with all its juices, and is therefore useless as food. If wanted +for hashes or croquettes, the portion needed should be taken out as soon +as tender, and a pint of the stock with it, to use as gravy. Strain, when +done, into a stone pot or crock kept for the purpose, and, when cold, +remove the cake of fat which will rise to the top. This fat, melted and +strained, serves for many purposes better than lard. If the stock is to be +kept several days, leave the fat on till ready to use it. + +Fresh and cooked meat may be used together, and all remains of poultry or +game, and trimmings of chops and steaks, may be added, mutton being the +only meat which can not as well be used in combination; though even this, +by trimming off all the fat, may also be added. If it is intended to keep +the stock for some days, no vegetables should be added, as vegetable +juices ferment very easily. For clear soups they must be cooked with the +meat; and directions will be given under that head for amounts and +seasonings. + +The secret of a savory soup lies in many flavors, none of which are +allowed to predominate; and, minutely as rules for such flavoring may be +given, only careful and frequent _tasting_ will insure success. Every +vegetable, spice, and sweet herb, curry-powders, catchups, sauces, dried +or fresh lemon-peel, can be used; and the simple stock, by the addition of +these various ingredients, becomes the myriad number of soups to be found +in the pages of great cooking manuals like Gouffee's or Francatelli's. + +_Brown soups_ are made by frying the meat or game used in them till +thoroughly brown on all sides, and using dark spices or sauces in their +seasoning. + +_White soups_ are made with light meats, and often with the addition of +milk or cream. + +_Purees_ are merely thick soups strained carefully before serving, and +made usually of some vegetable which thickens in boiling, as beans, pease, +&c, though there are several forms of fish _purees_ in which the +foundation is thickened milk, to which the fish is added, and the whole +then rubbed through a common sieve, if a regular puree-sieve is not to be +had. + +Browned flour is often used for coloring, but does not thicken a soup, as, +in browning it, the starchy portion has been destroyed; and it will not +therefore mix, but settles at the bottom. Burned sugar or caramel makes a +better coloring, and also adds flavor. With clear soups grated cheese is +often served, either Parmesan or any rich cheese being used. Onions give a +better flavor if they are fried in a little butter or dripping before +using, and many professional cooks fry all soup vegetables lightly. +Cabbage and potatoes should be parboiled in a separate water before +adding to a soup. In using wine or catchup, add only at the last moment, +as boiling dissipates the flavor. Unless a thick vegetable soup is +desired, always strain into the tureen. Rice, sago, macaroni, or any +cereal may be used as thickening; the amounts required being found under +the different headings. Careful skimming, long boiling, and as careful +removing of fat, will secure a broth especially desirable as a food for +children and the old, but almost equally so for any age; while many +fragments, otherwise entirely useless, discover themselves as savory and +nutritious parts of the day's supply of food. + + * * * * * + +SOUPS. + + +BEEP SOUP WITH VEGETABLES. + +For this very excellent soup take two quarts of stock prepared beforehand, +as already directed. If the stock is a jelly, as will usually be the case +in winter, an amount sufficient to fill a quart-measure can be diluted +with a pint of water, and will then be rich enough. Add to this one small +carrot, a turnip, a small parsnip, and two onions, all chopped fine; a +cupful of chopped cabbage; two tablespoonfuls of barley or rice; and +either six fresh tomatoes sliced, or a small can of sealed ones. Boil +gently at least one hour; then add one saltspoonful each of pepper, +curry-powder, and clove. If the stock has been salted properly, no more +will be needed; but tasting is essential to secure just the right flavors. +Boil a few minutes longer, and serve without straining. + +This is an especially savory and hearty soup, and the combinations of +vegetables may be varied indefinitely. A cup of chopped celery is an +exceedingly nice addition, or, if this is not to be had, a teaspoonful of +celery salt, or a saltspoonful of celery-seed. A lemon may also be sliced +thin, and added at the last. Where tomatoes are used, a little sugar is +always an improvement; in this case an even tablespoonful being +sufficient. If a thicker broth is desired, one heaped tablespoonful of +corn-starch or flour may be first dissolved in a little cold water; then a +cup of the hot broth gradually mixed with it, and the whole added to the +soup and boiled for five minutes. + + +CLEAR OR AMBER SOUP. + +This soup needs careful attention. It may be made of beef alone, but, if +desired very rich for a special dinner, requires the addition of either a +chicken or a knuckle of veal. Allow, then, for the best soup, a +soup-bone,--the shin of beef being most desirable,--weighing from two to +three pounds; a chicken; a slice of fat ham; two onions, each stuck with +three cloves; one small carrot and parsnip; one stalk of celery; one +tablespoonful of salt; half a saltspoonful of pepper; and four quarts of +cold water. + +Cut all the meat from the beef bone in small pieces; slice the onions; fry +the ham (or, if preferred, a thick slice of salt pork weighing not less +than two ounces); fry the onions a bright brown in this fat; add the +pieces of beef, and brown them also. Now put all the materials, bones +included, into the soup-kettle; add the cold water, and let it very +gradually come to a boil. Skim with the utmost care, and then boil slowly +and steadily for not less than five hours, six or even seven being +preferable. Strain, and set in a cold place. Next day remove the fat, and +put the soup on the fire one hour before it will be wanted. Break the +white and shell of an egg into a bowl; add a spoonful of cold water, and +beat a moment; add a little of the hot soup, that the white may mix more +thoroughly with the soup, and then pour it into the kettle. Let all boil +slowly for ten minutes; then strain, either through a jelly-bag, or +through a thick cloth laid in a sieve or colander. Do not stir, as this +would cloud the soup; and, if not clear and sparkling, strain again. +Return to the fire, and heat to boiling-point, putting a lemon cut in thin +slices, and, if liked, a glass of sherry, into the tureen before serving. +A poached egg, or a boiled egg from which the shell has been peeled, is +often served with each plate of this soup, which must be clear to deserve +its name. + + +WHITE SOUP. + +Veal or chicken must be used for this soup; and the stock must always be +prepared the day beforehand, having been flavored with two chopped onions +and a cup of cut celery, or celery-seed and other seasoning, in the +proportions already given. On the day it is to be used, heat a quart of +milk; stir one tablespoonful of butter to a cream; add a heaping +tablespoonful of flour or corn-starch, a saltspoonful of mace, and the +same amount of white pepper. Stir into the boiling milk, and add to the +soup. Let all boil a moment, and then pour into the tureen. Three eggs, +beaten very light and stirred into the hot milk without boiling, make a +still richer soup. The bones of cold roast chicken or turkey may be used +in this way; and the broth of any meat, if perfectly clear, can serve as +foundation, though veal or chicken is most delicate. + + +MOCK TURTLE SOUP. + +A calf's head is usually taken for this soup; but a set of calf's feet and +a pound of lean veal answer equally well. In either case, boil the meat in +four quarts of water for five hours, reducing the amount to two quarts, +and treating as stock for clear soup. + +Remove all fat, and put on the fire next day, half an hour before dinner, +seasoning it with a saltspoonful each of mace, powdered thyme, or sweet +marjoram and clove. Melt a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a small +saucepan; add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, and stir both till a +bright brown. Add soup till a smooth thickening is made, and pour it into +the soup-kettle. Cut about half a pound of the cold meat into small square +pieces,--_dice_ they are called,--and put into the tureen. Make forcemeat +balls by chopping a large cup of meat very fine; season with a +saltspoonful each of pepper and thyme; mix in the yolk of a raw egg; make +into little balls the size of a hickory-nut, and fry brown in a little +butter. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon into the tureen with (or +without) a wine-glass of sherry. Pour in the soup, and serve. If egg-balls +are desired, make them of the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed fine. +Add the yolk of a raw egg, a tablespoonful of melted butter, a saltspoon +of salt and half a one of pepper, and flour enough to make a dough which +can be easily handled. Roll out; cut into little dice, and make each into +a ball by rolling between the palms of the hands. Boil five minutes in the +soup. + + +MUTTON BROTH. + +Prepare and boil as directed for stock. The broth from a boiled leg of +mutton can be used, or any cheap pieces and trimmings from chops. One +small turnip and an onion will give flavoring enough. On the day it is to +be used, add to two quarts of broth half a cup of rice, and boil for half +an hour. + + +CHICKEN BROTH. + +Even an old fowl which is unusable in any other way makes excellent broth. +Prepare as in any stock, and, when used, add a tablespoonful of rice to +each quart of broth, boiling till tender. A white soup will be found the +most savory mode of preparation, the plain broth with rice being best for +children and invalids. + + +TOMATO SOUP WITHOUT MEAT. + +Materials for this soup are: one large can, or twelve fresh tomatoes; one +quart of boiling water; two onions; a small carrot; half a small turnip; +two or three sprigs of parsley, or a stalk of celery,--all cut fine, and +boiled one hour. As the water boils away, add more to it, so that the +quantity may remain the same. Season with one even tablespoonful each of +salt and sugar, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cream a tablespoonful of +butter with two heaping ones of flour, and add hot soup till it will pour +easily. Pour into the soup; boil all together for five minutes; then +strain through a sieve, and serve with toasted crackers or bread. + + +HASTY TOMATO SOUP. + +Simple but excellent. One large can of tomatoes and one pint of water +brought to the boiling-point, and rubbed through a sieve. Return to the +fire. Add half a teaspoonful of soda, and stir till it stops foaming. +Season with one even tablespoonful of salt, two of sugar, one +saltspoonful of cayenne. Thicken with two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, +and one of butter rubbed to a cream, with hot soup added till it pours +easily. Boil a pint of milk separately, and, when ready to use, pour into +the boiling tomato, and serve at once, as standing long makes the milk +liable to curdle. + + +OYSTER SOUP. + +Two quarts of perfectly fresh oysters. Strain off the juice, and add an +equal amount of water, or, if they are solid, add one pint of water, and +then strain and boil. Skim carefully. Add to one quart of milk one +tablespoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper, and, if +thickening is liked, use same proportions as in hasty tomato soup, and set +to boil. When the milk boils, put in the oysters. The moment the edges +curl a little, which will be when they have boiled one minute, they are +done, and should be served at once. Longer boiling toughens and spoils +them. This rule may be used also for stewed oysters, omitting the +thickening; or they may be put simply into the boiling juice, with the +same proportions of butter, salt, and pepper, and cooked the same length +of time. + + +CLAM SOUP. + +Fifty clams (hard or soft), boiled in a quart of water one hour. Take out, +and chop fine. Add one quart of milk, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and +one teaspoonful of salt. It will be necessary to taste, however, as some +clams are salter than others. Rub one tablespoonful of butter to a cream +with two of flour, and use as thickening. Add the chopped clams, and boil +five minutes. If the clams are disliked, simply strain through a sieve, +or cut off the hard part and use the soft only. + + +PUREE, OF FISH, VEGETABLES, ETC. + +One pound of fresh boiled salmon, or one small can of the sealed. + +Pick out all bone and skin, and, if the canned is used, pour off every +drop of oil. Shred it as fine as possible. Boil one quart of milk, +seasoning with one teaspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful each of mace +and white pepper, increasing the amount slightly if more is liked. Thicken +with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and one of butter rubbed to a cream, +with a cup of boiling water; add thickening and salmon, and boil two +minutes. Strain into the tureen through a puree sieve, rubbing as much as +possible of the salmon through with a potato-masher, and _serve very hot_. +All that will not go through can be mixed with an equal amount of +cracker-crumbs or mashed potato, made into small cakes or rolls, and fried +in a little butter for breakfast, or treated as croquettes, and served at +dinner. + +This thickened milk is the foundation for many forms of fish and vegetable +purees. A pint of green pease, boiled, mashed, and added; or asparagus or +spinach in the same proportions can be used. _Lobster_ makes a puree as +delicious as that of salmon. Dry the "coral" in the oven; pound it fine, +and add to the milk before straining, thus giving a clear pink color. Cut +all the meat and green fat into dice, and put into the tureen, pouring the +hot milk upon it. Boiled _cod_ or _halibut_ can be used; but nothing is so +nice as the salmon, either fresh or canned. For a _Puree of Celery_ boil +one pint of cut celery in water till tender; then add to boiling milk, +and rub through the sieve. For _Potato Puree_ use six large or ten medium +sized potatoes, boiled and mashed fine; then stirred into the milk, and +strained; a large tablespoonful of chopped parsley being put in the +tureen. For a _Green-Corn Soup_ use the milk without straining; adding a +can of corn, or the corn cut from six ears of fresh boiled corn, and an +even tablespoonful of sugar, and boiling ten minutes. _Salsify_ can also +be used, the combinations being numberless, and one's own taste a safe +guide in making new ones. + + +TURTLE-BEAN SOUP. + +Wash and soak over-night, in cold water, one pint of the black or turtle +beans. In the morning put on the fire in three quarts of cold water, +which, as it boils away, must be added to, to preserve the original +quantity. Add quarter of a pound of salt pork and half a pound of lean +beef; one carrot and two onions cut fine; one tablespoonful of salt; one +saltspoonful of cayenne. Cover closely, and boil four or five hours. Rub +through a colander, having first put in the tureen three hard-boiled eggs +cut in slices, one lemon sliced thin, and half a glass of wine. This soup +is often served with small sausages which have been boiled in it for ten +minutes, and then skinned, and used either whole or cut in bits. Cold +baked beans can also be used, in which case the meat, eggs, and wine are +omitted. + + +PEA SOUP. + +One quart of dried pease, washed and soaked over-night; split pease are +best. In the morning put them on the fire with six quarts of cold water; +half a pound of salt pork; one even tablespoonful of salt; one +saltspoonful of cayenne; and one teaspoonful of celery-seed. Fry till a +bright brown three onions cut small, and add to the pease; cover closely, +and boil four or five hours. Strain through a colander, and, if not +perfectly smooth, return to fire, and add a thickening made of one heaping +teaspoonful of flour and an even one of butter, stirred together with a +little hot water and boiled five minutes. Beans can be used in precisely +the same way; and both bean and pea soups are nicer served with +_croutons_, or a thick slice of bread cut in dice, and fried brown and +crisp, or simply browned in the oven, and put into the tureen at the +moment of serving. + + +ONION SOUP. + +Take three large onions, slice them very thin, and then fry to a bright +brown in a large spoonful of either butter or stock-fat, the latter +answering equally well. When brown, add half a teacupful of flour, and +stir constantly until red. Then pour in slowly one pint of boiling water, +stirring steadily till it is all in. Boil and mash fine four large +potatoes, and stir into one quart of boiling milk, taking care that there +are no lumps. Add this to the fried onions, with one teaspoonful of salt +and half a teaspoonful of white pepper. Let all boil for five minutes, and +then serve with toasted or fried bread. Simple as this seems, it is one of +the best of the vegetable soups, though it is made richer by the use of +stock instead of water. + + +BROWNED FLOUR FOR SOUPS. + +Put a pint of sifted flour into a perfectly clean frying-pan, and stir and +turn constantly as it darkens, till the whole is an even dark brown. If +scorched at all, it is ruined, and should not be used for any purpose. As +a coloring for soups and gravies it is by no means as good as caramel or +burned sugar. + + +CARAMEL. + +Half a pound of brown sugar; one tablespoonful of water. Put into a +frying-pan, and stir steadily over the fire till it becomes a deep dark +brown in color. Then add one cup of boiling water and one teaspoonful of +salt. Boil a minute longer, bottle, and keep corked. One tablespoonful +will color a clear soup, and it can be used for many jellies, gravies, and +sauces. + + * * * * * + +FISH. + + +The most essential point in choosing fish is their _freshness_, and this +is determined as follows: if the gills are red, the eyes prominent and +full, and the whole fish stiff, they are good; but if the eyes are sunken, +the gills pale, and the fish flabby, they are stale and unwholesome, and, +though often eaten in this condition, lack all the fine flavor of a +freshly-caught fish. + +The fish being chosen, the greatest care is necessary in cleaning. If this +is properly done, one washing will be sufficient: the custom of allowing +fresh fish to lie in water after cleaning, destroys much of their flavor. + +Fresh-water fish, especially the cat-fish, have often a muddy taste and +smell. To get rid of this, soak in water strongly salted; say, a cupful of +salt to a gallon of water, letting it heat gradually in this, and boiling +it for one minute; then drying it thoroughly before cooking. + +All fish for boiling should be put into cold water, with the exception of +salmon, which loses its color unless put into boiling water. A +tablespoonful each of salt and vinegar to every two quarts of water +improves the flavor of all boiled fish, and also makes the flesh firmer. +Allow ten minutes to the pound after the fish begins to boil, and test +with a knitting-needle or sharp skewer. If it runs in easily, the fish can +be taken off. If a fish-kettle with strainer is used, the fish can be +lifted out without danger of breaking. If not, it should be thoroughly +dredged with flour, and served in a cloth kept for the purpose. In all +cases drain it perfectly, and send to table on a folded napkin laid upon +the platter. + +In frying, fish should, like all fried articles, be _immersed_ in the hot +lard or drippings. Small fish can be fried whole; larger ones boned, and +cut in small pieces. If they are egged and crumbed, the _egg_ will form a +covering, hardening at once, and absolutely impervious to fat. + +Pan-fish, as they are called,--flounders and small fish generally,--can +also be fried by rolling in Indian meal or flour, and browning in the fat +of salt pork. + +Baking and broiling preserve the flavor most thoroughly. + +Cold boiled fish can always be used, either by spicing as in the rule to +be given, or by warming again in a little butter and water. Cold fried or +broiled fish, can be put in a pan, and set in the oven till hot, this +requiring not over ten minutes; a longer time giving a strong, oily taste, +which spoils it. Plain boiled or mashed potatoes are always served with +fish where used as a dinner-course. If fish is boiled whole, do not cut +off either tail or head. The tail can be skewered in the mouth if liked; +or a large fish may be boiled in the shape of the letter S by threading a +trussing-needle, fastening a string around the head, then passing the +needle through the middle of the body, drawing the string tight and +fastening it around the tail. + + +BAKED FISH. + +Bass, fresh shad, blue-fish, pickerel, &c., can be cooked in this way:-- + +See that the fish has been properly cleaned. Wash in salted water, and +wipe dry. For stuffing for a fish weighing from four to six pounds, take +four large crackers, or four ounces of bread-crumbs; quarter of a pound of +salt pork; one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper; a +tablespoonful of chopped parsley, or a teaspoonful of thyme. Chop half the +pork fine, and mix with the crumbs and seasoning, using half a cup of hot +water to mix them, or, if preferred, a beaten egg. Put this dressing into +the body of the fish, which is then to be fastened together with a skewer. +Cut the remainder of the pork in narrow strips, and lay it in gashes cut +across the back of the fish about two inches apart. Dredge thickly with +flour, using about two tablespoonfuls. Put a tin baking-sheet in the +bottom of a pan, as without it the fish can not be easily taken up. Lay +the fish on this; pour a cup of boiling water into the pan, and bake in a +hot oven for one hour, basting it very often that the skin may not crack; +and, at the end of half an hour, dredging again with flour, repeating this +every ten minutes till the fish is done. If the water dries away, add +enough to preserve the original quantity. When the fish is done, slide it +carefully from the tin sheet on to a hot platter. Set the baking-pan on +top of the stove. Mix a teaspoonful of flour with quarter of a cup of cold +water, and stir into the boiling gravy. A tablespoonful of walnut or +mushroom catchup, or of Worcestershire sauce, may be added if liked. +_Serve very hot._ + +Before sending a baked fish to table, take out the skewer. When done, it +should have a handsome brown crust. If pork is disliked, it may be omitted +altogether, and a tablespoonful of butter substituted in the stuffing. +Basting should be done as often as once in ten minutes, else the skin will +blister and crack. Where the fish is large, it will be better to sew the +body together after stuffing, rather than to use a skewer. The string can +be cut and removed before serving. + +If any is left, it can be warmed in the remains of the gravy, or, if this +has been used, make a gravy of one cup of hot water, thickened with one +teaspoonful of flour or corn-starch stirred smooth first in a little cold +water. Add a tablespoonful of butter and any catchup or sauce desired. +Take all bones from the fish; break it up in small pieces, and stew not +over five minutes in the gravy. Or it can be mixed with an equal amount of +mashed potato or bread-crumbs, a cup of milk and an egg added, with a +teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and baked until +brown--about fifteen minutes--in a hot oven. + + +TO BOIL FISH. + +General directions have already been given. All fish must boil _very_ +gently, or the outside will break before the inside is done. In all cases +salt and a little vinegar, a teaspoonful each, are allowed to each quart +of water. Where the fish has very little flavor, Dubois' receipt for +boiling will be found exceedingly nice, and much less trouble than the +name applied by professional cooks to this method--_au court +bouillon_--would indicate. It is as follows:-- + +Mince a carrot, an onion, and one stalk of celery, and fry them in a +little butter. Add two or three sprigs of parsley, two tablespoonfuls of +salt, six pepper-corns, and three cloves. Pour on two quarts of boiling +water and one pint of vinegar, and boil for fifteen minutes. Skim as it +boils, and use, when cold, for boiling the fish. Wine can be used instead +of vinegar; and, by straining carefully and keeping in a cold place, the +same mixture can be used several times. + + +TO BROIL FISH. + +If the fish is large, it should be split, in order to insure its being +cooked through; though notches may be cut at equal distances, so that the +heat can penetrate. Small fish may be broiled whole. The gridiron should +be well greased with dripping or olive oil. If a double-wire gridiron is +used, there will be no trouble in turning either large or small fish. If a +single-wire or old-fashioned iron one, the best way is to first loosen +with a knife any part that sticks; then, holding a platter over the fish +with one hand, turn the gridiron with the other, and the fish can then be +returned to it without breaking. + +Small fish require a hot, clear fire; large ones, a more moderate one, +that the outside may not be burned before the inside is done. Cook always +with the _skin-side_ down at first, and broil to a golden brown,--this +requiring, for small fish, ten minutes; for large ones, from ten to +twenty, according to size. When done, pepper and salt lightly; and to a +two-pound fish allow a tablespoonful of butter spread over it. Set the +fish in the oven a moment, that the butter may soak in, and then serve. A +teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and half a lemon squeezed over shad or any +fresh fish, is a very nice addition. Where butter, lemon, and parsley are +blended beforehand, it makes the sauce known as _maitre d'hotel_ sauce, +which is especially good for broiled shad. + +In broiling steaks or cutlets of large fish,--say, salmon, halibut, fresh +cod, &c.,--the same general directions apply. Where very delicate broiling +is desired, the pieces of fish can be wrapped in buttered paper before +laying on the gridiron; this applying particularly to salmon. + + +TO FRY FISH. + +Small fish--such as trout, perch, smelts, &c.--may simply be rolled in +Indian meal or flour, and fried either in the fat of salt pork, or in +boiling lard or drippings. A nicer method, however, with fish, whether +small or in slices, is to dip them first in flour or fine crumbs, then in +beaten egg,--one egg, with two tablespoonfuls of cold water and half a +teaspoonful of salt, being enough for two dozen smelts; then rolling again +in crumbs or meal, and dropping into hot lard. The egg hardens instantly, +and not a drop of fat can penetrate the inside. Fry to a golden brown. +Take out with a skimmer; lay in the oven on a double brown paper for a +moment, and then serve. + +_Filets_ of fish are merely flounders, or any flat fish with few bones, +boned, skinned, and cut in small pieces; then egged and fried. + +To bone a fish of this sort, use a very sharp knife. The fish should have +been scaled, but not cleaned or cut open. Make a cut down the back from +head to tail. Now, holding the knife pressed close to the bone, cut +carefully till the fish is free on one side; then turn, and cut away the +other. To skin, take half the fish at a time firmly in one hand; hold the +blade of the knife flat as in boning, and run it slowly between skin and +flesh. Cut the fish in small diamond-shaped pieces; egg, crumb, and put +into shape with the knife; and then fry. The operation is less troublesome +than it sounds, and the result most satisfactory. + +The _bones and trimmings_ remaining can either be stewed in a pint of +water till done, adding half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of +pepper, and a tablespoonful of catchup; straining the gravy off, and +thickening with one heaping teaspoonful of flour dissolved in a little +cold water: or they can be broiled. For broiled bones, mix one +saltspoonful of mustard, as much cayenne as could be taken up on the point +of a penknife, a saltspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar. A +tablespoonful of olive-oil may be added, if liked. Lay the bone in this, +turning it till all is absorbed; broil over a quick fire; and _serve very +hot_. + +Fish may also be fried in batter (p. 182), or these pieces, or _filets_, +may be laid on a buttered dish; a simple drawn butter or cream sauce (p. +182) poured over them; the whole covered with rolled bread or +cracker-crumbs, dotted with bits of butter, and baked half an hour. A cup +of canned mushrooms is often added. + + +TO STEW FISH. + +Any fresh-water fish is good, cooked in this way; cat-fish which have been +soaked in salted water, to take away the muddy taste, being especially +nice. Cut the fish in small pieces. Boil two sliced onions in a cup of +water. Pour off this water; add another cup, and two tablespoonfuls of +wine, a saltspoonful of pepper, and salt to taste (about half a +teaspoonful). Put in the fish, and cook for twenty minutes. Thicken the +gravy with a heaping teaspoonful of flour, rubbed to a cream with a +teaspoonful of butter. If wine is not used, add a sprig of chopped parsley +and the juice of half a lemon. + +These methods will be found sufficient for all fresh fish, no other +special rules being necessary. Experience and individual taste will guide +their application. If the fish is oily, as in the case of mackerel or +herring, broiling will always be better than frying. If fried, let it be +with very little fat, as their own oil will furnish part. + + +TO BOIL SALT CODFISH. + +The large, white cod, which cuts into firm, solid slices, should be used. +If properly prepared, there is no need of the strong smell, which makes it +so offensive to many, and which comes only in boiling. The fish is now to +be had boned, and put up in small boxes, and this is by far the most +desirable form. In either case, lay in tepid water _skin-side up_, and +soak all night. If the skin is down, the salt, instead of soaking out, +settles against it, and is retained. Change the water in the morning, and +soak two or three hours longer; then, after scraping and cleaning +thoroughly, put in a kettle with tepid water enough to well cover it, and +set it where it will heat to the scalding-point, but _not boil_. Keep it +at this point, but never let it boil a moment. Let it cook in this way an +hour: two will do no harm. Remove every particle of bone and dark skin +before serving, sending it to table in delicate pieces, none of which +need be rejected. With egg sauce (p. 169), mashed or mealy boiled +potatoes, and sugar-beets, this makes the New-England "fish dinner" a +thing of terror when poorly prepared, but both savory and delicate where +the above rule is closely followed. + +Fish-balls, and all the various modes of using salted cod, require this +preparation beforehand. + + +SALT COD WITH CREAM. + +Flake two pounds of cold boiled salt cod very fine. Boil one pint of milk. +Mix butter the size of a small egg with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and +stir into it. Add a few sprigs of parsley or half an onion minced very +fine, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Butter a +quart pudding-dish. Put in alternate layers of dressing and fish till +nearly full. Cover the top with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, dot with +bits of butter, and brown in a quick oven about twenty minutes. The fish +may be mixed with an equal part of mashed potato, and baked; and not only +codfish, but any boiled _fresh_ fish, can be used, in which case double +the measure of salt given will be required. + + +SPICED FISH. + +Any remains of cold fresh fish may be used. Take out all bones or bits of +skin. Lay in a deep dish, and barely cover with hot vinegar in which a few +cloves and allspice have been boiled. It is ready for use as soon as cold. + + +POTTED FISH. + +Fresh herring or mackerel or shad may be used. Skin the fish, and cut in +small pieces, packing them in a small stone jar. Just cover with vinegar. +For six pounds of fish allow one tablespoonful of salt, and a dozen each +of whole allspice, cloves, and pepper-corns. Tie a thick paper over the +top of the cover, and bake five hours. The vinegar dissolves the bones +perfectly, and the fish is an excellent relish at supper. + + +FISH CHOWDER. + +Three pounds of any sort of fresh fish may be taken; but fresh cod is +always best. Six large potatoes and two onions, with half a pound of salt +pork. + +Cut the pork into dice, and fry to a light brown. Add the onions, and +brown them also. Pour the remaining fat into a large saucepan, or butter +it, as preferred. Put in a layer of potatoes, a little onion and pork, and +a layer of the fish cut in small pieces, salting and peppering each layer. +A tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper will be a mild +seasoning. A pinch of cayenne may be added, if liked. Barely cover with +boiling water, and boil for half an hour. In the meantime boil a pint of +milk, and, when at boiling-point, break into it three ship biscuit or half +a dozen large crackers; add a heaping tablespoonful of butter. Put the +chowder in a platter, and pile the softened crackers on top, pouring the +milk over all. Or the milk may be poured directly into the chowder; the +crackers laid in, and softened in the steam; and the whole served in a +tureen. Three or four tomatoes are sometimes added. In clam chowder the +same rule would be followed, substituting one hundred clams for the fish, +and using a small can of tomatoes if fresh ones were not in season. + + +STEWED OYSTERS. + +The rule already given for _oyster soup_ is an excellent one, omitting the +thickening. A simpler one is to strain the juice from a quart of oysters, +and add an equal amount of water. Bring it to boiling-point; skim +carefully; season with salt to taste, this depending on the saltness of +the oysters, half a teaspoonful being probably enough. Add a saltspoonful +of pepper, a tablespoonful of butter, and a cup of milk. The milk may be +omitted, if preferred. Add the oysters. Boil till the edges curl, and no +longer. Serve at once, as they toughen by standing. + + +FRIED OYSTERS. + +Choose large oysters, and drain thoroughly in a colander. Dry in a towel. +Dip first in sifted cracker-crumbs; then in egg, one egg beaten with a +large spoonful of cold water, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a +saltspoonful of pepper, being enough for two dozen oysters. Roll again in +crumbs, and drop into boiling lard. If a wire frying-basket is used, lay +them in this. Fry to a light brown. Lay them on brown paper a moment to +drain, and serve at once on a _hot platter_. As they require hardly more +than a minute to cook, it is better to wait till all are at the table +before beginning to fry. Oysters are very good, merely fried in a little +hot butter; but the first method preserves their flavor best. + + +SCALLOPED OYSTERS. + +One quart of oysters; one large breakfast cup of cracker or bread crumbs, +the crackers being nicer if freshly toasted and rolled hot; two large +spoonfuls of butter; one teaspoonful of salt; half a teaspoonful of +pepper; one saltspoonful of mace. Mix the salt, pepper, and mace together. +Butter a pudding-dish; heat the juice with the seasoning and butter, +adding a teacup of milk or cream if it can be had, though water will +answer. Put alternate layers of crumbs and oysters, filling the dish in +this way. Pour the juice over, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. If +not well browned, heat a shovel red-hot, and brown the top with that; +longer baking toughening the oysters. + + +OYSTERS FOR PIE OR PATTIES. + +One quart of oysters put on to boil in their own liquor. Turn them while +boiling into a colander to drain. Melt a piece of butter the size of an +egg in the saucepan, add a tablespoonful of sifted flour, and stir one +minute. Pour in the oyster liquor slowly, which must be not less than a +large cupful. Beat the yolks of two eggs thoroughly with a saltspoonful of +salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and one of mace. Add to the boiling +liquor, but do not let it boil. Put in the oysters, and either use them to +fill a pie, the form for which is already baked, for patties for dinner, +or serve them on thin slices of buttered toast for breakfast or tea. + + +SPICED OR PICKLED OYSTERS. + +To a gallon of large, fine oysters, allow one pint of cider or white-wine +vinegar; one tablespoonful of salt; one grated nutmeg; eight blades of +mace; three dozen cloves, and as many whole allspice; and a saltspoon even +full of cayenne pepper. Strain the oyster juice, and bring to the +boiling-point in a porcelain-lined kettle. Skim carefully as it boils up. +Add the vinegar, and skim also, throwing in the spices and salt when it +has boiled a moment. Boil all together for five minutes, and then pour +over the oysters, adding a lemon cut in very thin slices. They are ready +for the table next day, but will keep a fortnight or more in a cold place. +If a sharp pickle is desired, use a quart instead of a pint of vinegar. + + +SMOTHERED OYSTERS (_Maryland fashion_). + +Drain all the juice from a quart of oysters. Melt in a frying-pan a piece +of butter the size of an egg, with as much cayenne pepper as can be taken +up on the point of a penknife, and a saltspoonful of salt. Put in the +oysters, and cover closely. They are done as soon as the edges ruffle. +Serve on thin slices of buttered toast as a breakfast or supper dish. A +glass of sherry is often added. + + +OYSTER OR CLAM FRITTERS. + +Chop twenty-five clams or oysters fine, and mix them with a batter made as +follows: One pint of flour, in which has been sifted one heaping +teaspoonful of baking-powder and half a teaspoonful of salt; one large cup +of milk, and two eggs well beaten. Stir eggs and milk together; add the +flour slowly; and, last, the clams or oysters. Drop by spoonfuls into +boiling lard. Fry to a golden brown, and serve at once; or they may be +fried like pancakes in a little hot fat. Whole clams or oysters may be +used instead of chopped ones, and fried singly. + + +TO BOIL LOBSTERS OR CRABS. + +Be sure that the lobster is alive, as, if dead, it will not be fit to use. +Have water boiling in a large kettle, and, holding the lobster or crab by +the back, drop it in head foremost; the reason for this being, that the +animal dies instantly when put in in this way. An hour is required for a +medium-sized lobster, the shell turning red when done. When cold, the meat +can be used either plain or in salad, or cooked in various ways. A +can-opener will be found very convenient in opening a lobster. + + +STEWED OR CURRIED LOBSTER. + +Cut the meat into small bits, and add the green fat, and the coral which +is found only in the hen-lobster. Melt in a saucepan one tablespoonful of +butter and a heaping tablespoonful of flour. Stir smoothly together, +adding slowly one large cup of either stock or milk, a saltspoonful of +mace, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Put in +the lobster, and cook for ten minutes. For curry, simply add one +teaspoonful of curry-powder. This stewed lobster may also be put in the +shell of the back, which has been cleaned and washed, bread or cracker +crumbs sprinkled over it, and browned in the oven; or it may be treated as +a scallop, buttering a dish, and putting in alternate layers of crumbs and +lobster, ending with crumbs. Crabs, though more troublesome to extract +from the shell, are almost equally good, treated in any of the ways given. + + * * * * * + +MEATS. + + +The qualities and characteristics of meats have already been spoken of in +Part I., and it is necessary here to give only a few simple rules for +marketing. + +The best BEEF is of a clear red color, slightly marbled with fat, and the +fat itself of a clear white. Where the beef is dark red or bluish, and the +fat yellow, it is too old, or too poorly fed, to be good. The sirloin and +ribs, especially the sixth, seventh, and eighth, make the best +roasting-pieces. The ribs can be removed and used for stock, and the beef +rolled or skewered firmly, making a piece very easily carved, and almost +as presentable the second day as the first. For steaks sirloin is nearly +as good, and much more economical, than porter-house, which gives only a +small eatable portion, the remainder being only fit for the stock-pot. If +the beef be very young and tender, steaks from the round may be used; but +these are usually best stewed. Other pieces and modes of cooking are given +under their respective heads. + +MUTTON should be a light, clear red, and the fat very white and firm. It +is always improved by keeping, and in cold weather can be hung for a +month, if carefully watched to see that it has not become tainted. Treated +in this way, well-fed mutton is equal to venison. If the fat is deep +yellow, and the lean dark red, the animal is too old; and no keeping will +make it really good eating. Four years is considered the best age for +prime mutton. + +VEAL also must have clear white fat, and should be fine in grain. If the +kidney is covered with firm white fat, it indicates health, and the meat +is good; if yellow, it is unwholesome, and should not be eaten. The loin +and fillet are used in roasting, and are the choice pieces, the breast +coming next, and the neck and ribs being good for stewing and fricassees. + +PORK should have fine, white fat, and the meat should be white and smooth. +Only country-fed pork should ever be eaten, the pig even then being +liable to diseases unknown to other animals, and the meat, even when +carefully fed, being at all times less digestible than any sort. _Bacon_, +carefully cured and smoked, is considered its most wholesome form. + +POULTRY come last. The best _Turkeys_ have black legs; and, if young, the +toes and bill are soft and pliable. The combs of fowls should be bright +colored, and the legs smooth. + +_Geese_, if young and fine, are plump in the breast, have white soft fat, +and yellow feet. + +_Ducks_ are chosen by the same rule as geese, and are firm and thick on +the breast. + +_Pigeons_ should be fresh, the breast plump, and the feet elastic. Only +experience can make one familiar with other signs; and a good butcher can +usually be trusted to tide one over the season of inexperience, though the +sooner it ends the better for all parties concerned. + + +BOILED MEATS AND STEWS. + +All meats intended to be boiled and served whole at table must be put into +_boiling water_, thus following an entirely opposite rule from those +intended for soups. In the latter, the object being to extract all the +juice, cold water must always be used first, and then heated with the meat +in. In the former, all the juice is to be kept in; and, by putting into +boiling water, the albumen of the meat hardens on the surface and makes a +case or coating for the meat, which accomplishes this end. Where something +between a soup and plain boiled meat is desired, as in _beef bouilli_, the +meat is put on in cold water, which is brought to a boil _very quickly_, +thus securing good gravy, yet not robbing the meat of all its juices. +With corned or salted meats, tongue, &c., cold water must be used, and +half an hour to the pound allowed. If to be eaten cold, such meats should +always be allowed to cool in the water in which they were boiled; and this +water, if not too salt, can be used for dried bean or pea soups. + + +BEEF A LA MODE. + +Six or eight pounds of beef from the round, cut thick. Take out the bone, +trim off all rough bits carefully, and rub the meat well with the +following spicing: One teaspoonful each of pepper and ground clove, +quarter of a cup of brown sugar, and three teaspoonfuls of salt. Mix these +all together, and rub thoroughly into the beef, which must stand +over-night. + +Next morning make a stuffing of one pint of bread or cracker crumbs; one +large onion chopped fine; a tablespoonful of sweet marjoram or thyme; half +a teaspoonful each of pepper and ground clove, and a heaping teaspoonful +of salt. Add a large cup of hot water, in which has been melted a heaping +tablespoonful of butter, and stir into the crumbs. Beat an egg light, and +mix with it. If there is more than needed to fill the hole, make gashes in +the meat, and stuff with the remainder. Now bind into shape with a strip +of cotton cloth, sewing or tying it firmly. Put a trivet or small iron +stand into a soup-pot, and lay the beef upon it. Half cover it with cold +water; put in two onions stuck with three cloves each, a large +tablespoonful of salt, and a half teaspoonful of pepper; and stew very +slowly, allowing half an hour to the pound, and turning the meat twice +while cooking. At the end of this time take off the cloth, and put the +meat, which must remain on the trivet, in a roasting-pan. Dredge it +quickly with flour, set into a hot oven, and brown thoroughly. Baste once +with the gravy, and dredge again, the whole operation requiring about half +an hour. The water in the pot should have been reduced to about a pint. +Pour this into the roasting-pan after the meat is taken up, skimming off +every particle of fat. Thicken with a heaping tablespoonful of browned +flour, stirred smooth in a little cold water, and add a tablespoonful of +catchup and two of wine, if desired, though neither is necessary. Taste, +as a little more salt may be required. + +The thick part of a leg of veal may be treated in the same manner, both +being good either hot or cold; and a round of beef may be also used +without spicing or stuffing, and browned in the same way, the remains +being either warmed in the gravy or used for hashes or croquettes. + + +BEEF A LA MODE (_Virginia fashion_). + +Use the round, as in the foregoing receipt, and remove the bone; and for +eight pounds allow half a pint of good vinegar; one large onion minced +fine; half a teaspoonful each of mustard, black pepper, clove, and +allspice; and two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar. Cut half a pound of fat +salt pork into lardoons, or strips, two or three inches long and about +half an inch square. Boil the vinegar with the onion and seasoning, and +pour over the strips of pork, and let them stand till cold. Then pour off +the liquor, and thicken it with bread or cracker crumbs. Make incisions in +the beef at regular intervals,--a carving-steel being very good for this +purpose,--and push in the strips of pork. Fill the hole from which the +bone was taken with the rest of the pork and the dressing, and tie the +beef firmly into shape. Put two tablespoonfuls of dripping or lard in a +frying-pan, and brown the meat on all sides. This will take about half an +hour. Now put the meat on a trivet in the kettle; half cover with boiling +water; and add a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of pepper, an onion +and a small carrot cut fine, and two or three sprigs of parsley. Cook very +slowly, allowing half an hour to a pound, and make gravy by the directions +given for it in the preceding receipt. + +_Braised beef_ is prepared by either method given here for _a la mode_ +beef, but cooked in a covered iron pan, which comes for the purpose, and +which is good also for beef _a la mode_, or for any tough meat which +requires long cooking, and is made tenderer by keeping in all the steam. + + +BOILED MUTTON. + +A _shoulder_, or _fore-quarter_, of mutton, weighing five or six pounds, +will boil in an hour, as it is so thin. The _leg_, or _hind-quarter_, +requires twenty minutes to the pound; though, if very young and tender, it +will do in less. It can be tried with a knitting-needle to see if it is +tender. It is made whiter and more delicate by boiling in a cloth, but +should be served without it. Boil in well-salted water according to the +rule already given. Boiled or mashed turnips are usually served with it, +and either drawn butter or caper sauce as on p. 169. + +_Lamb_ may be boiled in the same manner, but is better roasted; and so +also with _veal_. + + +BOILED CORNED BEEF. + +If to be eaten hot, the _round_ is the best piece. If cold and pressed, +what are called "_plate pieces_"--that is, the brisket, the flank, and +the thin part of the ribs--may be used. Wash, and put into cold water, +allowing half an hour to a pound after it begins to boil. If to be eaten +cold, let it stand in the water till nearly cold, as this makes it richer. +Take out all bones from a thin piece; wrap in a cloth, and put upon a +large platter. Lay a tin sheet over it, and set on a heavy +weight,--flat-irons will do,--and let it stand over-night. Or the meat may +be picked apart with a knife and fork; the fat and lean evenly mixed and +packed into a pan, into which a smaller pan is set on top of the meat, and +the weight in this. Thus marbled slices may be had. All corned beef is +improved by pressing, and all trimmings from it can be used in hash or +croquettes. + + +BOILED TONGUE. + +Smoked tongue will be found much better than either fresh or pickled +tongues. + +Soak it over night, after washing it. Put on in cold water, and boil +steadily four hours. Then take out; peel off the skin, and return to the +water to cool. Cut in _lengthwise_ slices, as this makes it tenderer. The +root of the tongue may be chopped very fine, and seasoned like deviled ham +(p. 265). + + +BOILED HAM. + +Small hams are better in flavor and quality than large ones. A brush +should be kept to scrub them with, as it is impossible to get them clean +without it. Soak over-night in plenty of cold water. Next morning, scrape, +and trim off all the hard black parts, scrubbing it well. Put on to boil +in cold water. Let it heat very gradually. Allow half an hour to the +pound. When done, take from the water, skin, and return, letting it remain +till cold. Dot with spots of black pepper, and cover the knuckle with a +frill of white paper. It is much nicer, whether eaten hot or cold, if +covered with bread or cracker crumbs and browned in the oven. The fat is +useless, save for soap-grease. In carving, cut down in thin slices through +the middle. The knuckle can always be deviled (p. 265). A _leg of pork_ +which has simply been corned is boiled in the same way as ham, soaking +over-night, and browning in the oven or not, as liked. + + +IRISH STEW. + +This may be made of either beef or mutton, though mutton is generally +used. Reject all bones, and trim off all fat and gristle, reserving these +for the stock-pot. Cut the meat in small pieces, not over an inch square, +and cover with cold water. Skim carefully as it boils up, and see that the +water is kept at the same level by adding as it boils away. For two pounds +of meat allow two sliced onions, eight good-sized potatoes, two +teaspoonfuls of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, and +cook for two hours. Thicken the gravy with one tablespoonful of flour +stirred smooth in a little cold water, and serve very hot. The trimmings +from a fore-quarter of mutton will be enough for a stew, leaving a +well-shaped roast besides. If beef is used, add one medium-sized carrot +cut fine, and some sprigs of parsley. Such a stew would be called by a +French cook a _ragout_, and can be made of any pieces of meat or poultry. + + +WHITE STEW, OR FRICASSEE. + +Use _veal_ for this stew, allowing an hour to a pound of meat, and the +same proportions of salt and pepper as in the preceding receipt, adding a +saltspoonful of mace. Thicken, when done, with one heaping tablespoonful +of flour rubbed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an egg, and one +cup of hot milk added just at the last. A cauliflower nicely boiled, cut +up, and stewed with it a moment, is very nice. + +This stew becomes a _pot-pie_ by making a nice biscuit-crust, as on p. +164; cutting it out in rounds, and laying in the kettle half an hour +before the stew is done. Cover closely, and do not turn them. Lay them, +when done, around the edge of the platter; pile the meat in the centre, +and pour over it the thickened gravy. Two beaten eggs are sometimes added, +and it is then called a _blanquette_ of veal. + + +BROWN STEW OR FRICASSEE. + +To make these stews the meat is cut in small pieces, and browned on each +side in a little hot dripping; or, if preferred, quarter of a pound of +pork is cut in thin slices and fried crisp, the fat from it being used for +browning. Cover the meat with warm water when done. If a stew, any +vegetables liked can be added; a fricassee never containing them, having +only meat and a gravy, thickened with browned flour and seasoned in the +proportions already given. Part of a can of mushrooms may be used with a +beef stew, and a glass of wine added; this making a _ragout with +mushrooms_. The countless receipts one sees in large cook-books for +ragouts and fricassees are merely variations in the flavoring of simple +stews; and, after a little experimenting, any one can improvise her own, +remembering that the strongly-flavored vegetables (as carrots) belong +especially to dark meats, and the more delicate ones to light. Fresh pork +is sometimes used in a white fricassee, in which case a little powdered +sage is better than mace as a seasoning. + +_Curries_ can be made by adding a heaping teaspoonful of curry-powder to a +brown fricassee, and serving with boiled rice; put the rice around the +edge of the platter, and pour the curry in the middle. Chicken makes the +best curry; but veal is very good. In a genuine East-Indian curry, +lemon-juice and grated cocoa-nut are added; but it is an unwholesome +combination. + + +BEEF ROLLS. + +Two pounds of steak from the round, cut in very thin slices. Trim off all +fat and gristle, and cut into pieces about four inches square. Now cut +_very thin_ as many slices of salt pork as you have slices of steak, +making them a little smaller. Mix together one teaspoonful of salt and one +of thyme or summer savory, and one saltspoonful of pepper. Lay the pork on +a square of steak; sprinkle with the seasoning; roll up tightly, and tie. +When all are tied, put the bits of fat and trimmings into a hot +frying-pan, and add a tablespoonful of drippings. Lay in the rolls, and +brown on all sides, which will require about ten minutes; then put them in +a saucepan. Add to the fat in the pan a heaping tablespoonful of flour, +and stir till a bright brown. Pour in gradually one quart of boiling +water, and then strain it over the beef rolls. Cover closely, and cook two +hours, or less if the steak is tender, stirring now and then to prevent +scorching. Take off the strings before serving. These rolls can be +prepared without the pork, and are very nice; or a whole beefsteak can be +used, covering it with a dressing made as for stuffed veal, and then +rolling; tying at each end, browning, and stewing in the same way. This +can be eaten cold or hot; while the small rolls are much better hot. If +wanted as a breakfast dish, they can be cooked the day beforehand, left in +the gravy, and simply heated through next morning. + + +BRUNSWICK STEW. + +Two squirrels or small chickens; one quart of sliced tomatoes; one pint of +sweet corn; one pint of lima or butter beans; one quart of sliced +potatoes; two onions; half a pound of fat salt pork. + +Cut the pork in slices, and fry brown; cut the squirrels or chickens in +pieces, and brown a little, adding the onion cut fine. Now put all the +materials in a soup-pot; cover with two quarts of boiling water, and +season with one tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, and half a +teaspoonful of cayenne pepper. Stew slowly for four hours. Just before +serving, cream a large spoonful of butter with a heaping tablespoonful of +flour; thin with the broth, and pour in, letting all cook five minutes +longer. To be eaten in soup-plates. + + +ROASTED MEATS. + +Our roasted meats are really _baked_ meats; but ovens are now so well made +and ventilated, that there is little difference of flavor in the two +processes. + +Allow ten minutes to the pound if the meat is liked rare, and from twelve +to fifteen, if well done. It is always better to place the meat on a +trivet or stand made to fit easily in the roasting-pan, so that it may not +become sodden in the water used for gravy. Put into a hot oven, that the +surface may soon sear over and hold in the juices, enough of which will +escape for the gravy. All rough bits should have been trimmed off, and a +joint of eight or ten pounds rubbed with a tablespoonful of salt. Dredge +thickly with flour, and let it brown on the meat before basting it, which +must be done as often as once in fifteen minutes. Pepper lightly. If the +water in the pan dries away, add enough to have a pint for gravy in the +end. Dredge with flour at least twice, as this makes a crisp and +relishable outer crust. Take up the meat, when done, on a hot platter. +Make the gravy in the roasting-pan, by setting it on top of the stove, and +first scraping up all the browning from the corners and bottom. If there +is much fat, pour it carefully off. If the dredging has been well managed +while roasting, the gravy will be thick enough. If not, stir a teaspoonful +of browned flour smooth in cold water, and add. Should the gravy be too +light, color with a teaspoonful of caramel, and taste to see that the +seasoning is right. + +_Mutton_ requires fifteen minutes to the pound, unless preferred rare, in +which case ten will be sufficient. If a tin kitchen is used, fifteen +minutes for beef, and twenty for mutton, will be needed. + + +STUFFED LEG OF MUTTON. + +Have the butcher take out the first joint in a leg of mutton; or it can be +done at home by using a very sharp, narrow-bladed knife, and holding it +close to the bone. Rub in a tablespoonful of salt, and then fill with a +dressing made as follows: One pint of fine bread or cracker crumbs, in +which have been mixed dry one even tablespoonful of salt and one of summer +savory or thyme, and one teaspoonful of pepper. Chop one onion very fine, +and add to it, with one egg well beaten. Melt a piece of butter the size +of an egg in a cup of hot water, and pour on the crumbs. If not enough to +thoroughly moisten them, add a little more. Either fasten with a skewer, +or sew up, and roast as in previous directions. Skim all the fat from the +gravy, as the flavor of mutton-fat is never pleasant. A tablespoonful of +currant jelly may be put into the gravy-tureen, and the gravy strained +upon it. The meat must be basted, and dredged with flour, as carefully as +beef. Both the shoulder and saddle are roasted in the same way, but +without stuffing; and the leg may be also, though used to more advantage +with one. + +Lamb requires less time; a leg weighing six pounds needing but one hour, +or an hour and a quarter if roasted before an open fire. + + +ROAST VEAL. + +Veal is so dry a meat, that a moist dressing is almost essential. This +dressing may be made as in the previous receipt; or, instead of butter, +quarter of a pound of salt pork can be chopped fine, and mixed with it. If +the loin is used,--and this is always best,--take out the bone to the +first joint, and fill the hole with dressing, as in the leg of mutton. In +using the breast, bone also, reserving the bones for stock; lay the +dressing on it; roll, and tie securely. Baste often. Three or four thin +slices of salt pork may be laid on the top; or, if this is not liked, melt +a tablespoonful of butter in a cup of hot water, and baste with that. +Treat it as in directions for roasted meats, but allow a full half-hour to +the pound, and make the gravy as for beef. Cold veal makes so many nice +dishes, that a large piece can always be used satisfactorily. + + +ROAST PORK. + +Bone the leg as in mutton, and stuff; substituting sage for the sweet +marjoram, and using two onions instead of one. Allow half an hour to the +pound, and make gravy as for roast beef. Spare-ribs are considered most +delicate; and both are best eaten cold, the hot pork being rather gross, +and, whether hot or cold, less digestible than any other meat. + + +ROAST VENISON. + +In winter venison can be kept a month; and, in all cases, it should hang +in a cold place at least a month before using. Allow half an hour to a +pound in roasting, and baste very often. Small squares of salt pork are +sometimes inserted in incisions made here and there, and help to enrich +the gravy. In roasting a haunch it is usually covered with a thick paste +of flour and water, and a paper tied over this, not less than four hours +being required to roast it. At the end of three, remove the paper and +paste, dredge and baste till well browned. The last basting is with a +glass of claret; and this, and half a small glass of currant jelly are +added to the gravy. Venison steaks are treated as in directions for +broiled meats. + + +BAKED PORK AND BEANS. + +Pick over one quart of dried beans, what is known as "navy beans" being +the best, and soak over-night in plenty of cold water. + +Turn off the water in the morning, and put on to boil in cold water till +tender,--at least one hour. An earthen pot is always best for this, as a +shallow dish does not allow enough water to keep them from drying. Drain +off the water. Put the beans in the pot. Take half a pound of salt pork, +fat and lean together being best. Score the skin in small squares with a +knife, and bury it, all but the surface of this rind, in the beans. Cover +them completely with boiling water. Stir in one tablespoonful of salt, and +two of good molasses. Cover, and bake slowly,--not less than five +hours,--renewing the water if it bakes away. Take off the cover an hour +before they are done, that the pork may brown a little. If pork is +disliked, use a large spoonful of butter instead. Cold baked beans can be +warmed in a frying-pan with a little water, and are even better than at +first, or they can be used in a soup as in directions given. A teaspoonful +of made mustard is sometimes stirred in, and gives an excellent flavor to +a pot of baked beans. Double the quality if the family is large, as they +keep perfectly well in winter, the only season at which so hearty a dish +is required, save for laborers. + + +BROILED AND FRIED MEATS. + +If the steak is tender, never pound or chop it. If there is much fat, trim +it off, or it will drop on the coals and smoke. If tough, as in the +country is very likely to be the case, pounding becomes necessary, but a +better method is to use the chopping-knife; not chopping through, but +going lightly over the whole surface. Broken as it may seem, it closes at +once on the application of a quick heat. + +The best _broiler_ is by all means a light wire one, which can be held in +the hand and turned quickly. The fire should be quick and hot. Place the +steak in the centre of the broiler, and hold it close to the coals an +instant on each side, letting both sear over before broiling really +begins. + +Where a steak has been cut three-quarters of an inch thick, ten minutes +will be sufficient to cook it rare, and fifteen will make it well done. +Turn almost constantly, and, when done, serve at once on a _hot dish_. +Never salt broiled meats beforehand, as it extracts the juices. Cut up a +tablespoonful of butter, and let it melt on the hot dish, turning the +steak in it once or twice. Salt and pepper lightly, and, if necessary to +have it stand at all, cover with an earthen dish, or stand in the open +oven. _Chops_ and _cutlets_ are broiled in the same way. Veal is so dry a +meat that it is better fried. + +Where broiling for any reason cannot be conveniently done, the next best +method is to heat a frying-pan very hot; grease it with a bit of fat cut +from the steak, just enough to prevent it from sticking. Turn almost as +constantly as in broiling, and season in the same way when done. Venison +steaks are treated in the same manner. + + +VEAL CUTLETS. + +Fry four or five slices of salt pork till brown, or use drippings instead, +if this fat is disliked. Let the cutlets, which are best cut from the leg, +be made as nearly of a size as possible; dip them in well-beaten egg and +then in cracker-crumbs, and fry to a golden brown. Where the veal is +tough, it is better to parboil it for ten or fifteen minutes before +frying. + + +PORK STEAK. + +Pork steaks or chops should be cut quite thin, and sprinkled with pepper +and salt and a little powdered sage. Have the pan hot; put in a +tablespoonful of dripping, and fry the pork slowly for twenty minutes, +turning often. A gravy can be made for these, and for veal cutlets also, +by mixing a tablespoonful of flour with the fat left in the pan, and +stirring it till a bright brown, then adding a large cup of boiling water, +and salt to taste; a saltspoonful being sufficient, with half the amount +of pepper. + +Pigs' liver, which many consider very nice, is treated in precisely the +same way, using a teaspoonful of powdered sage to two pounds of liver. + + +FRIED HAM OR BACON. + +Cut the ham in very thin slices. Take off the rind, and, if the ham is old +or hard, parboil it for five minutes. Have the pan hot, and, unless the +ham is quite fat, use a teaspoonful of drippings. Turn the slices often, +and cook from five to eight minutes. They can be served dry, or, if gravy +is liked, add a tablespoonful of flour to the fat, stir till smooth, and +pour in slowly a large cup of milk or water. Salt pork can be fried in the +same way. If eggs are to be fried with the ham, take up the slices, break +in the eggs, and dip the boiling fat over them as they fry. If there is +not fat enough, add half a cup of lard. To make each egg round, put +muffin-rings into the frying-pan, and break an egg into each, pouring the +boiling fat over them from a spoon till done, which will be in from three +to five minutes. Serve one on each slice of ham, and make no gravy. The +fat can be strained, and used in frying potatoes. + + +FRIED TRIPE. + +The tripe can be merely cut in squares, rolled in flour, salted and +peppered, and fried brown in drippings, or the pieces may be dipped in a +batter made as for clam fritters, or egged and crumbed like oysters, and +fried. In cities it can be bought already prepared. In the country it must +first be cleaned, and then boiled till tender. + + +TO WARM COLD MEATS. + +Cold roast beef should be cut in slices, the gravy brought to +boiling-point, and each slice dipped in just long enough to heat, as +stewing in the gravy toughens it. Rare mutton is treated in the same way, +but is nicer warmed in a chafing-dish at table, adding a tablespoonful of +currant jelly and one of wine to the gravy. Venison is served in the same +manner. Veal and pork can cook in the gravy without toughening, and so +with turkey and chicken. Cold duck or game is very nice warmed in the same +way as mutton, the bones in all cases being reserved for stock. + + * * * * * + +POULTRY. + + +TO CLEAN POULTRY. + +First be very careful to singe off all down by holding over a blazing +paper, or a little alcohol burning in a saucer. Cut off the feet and ends +of the wings, and the neck as far as it is dark. If the fowl is killed at +home, be sure that the head is chopped off, and never allow the neck to be +wrung as is often done. It is not only an unmerciful way of killing, but +the blood has thus no escape, and settles about all the vital organs. The +head should be cut off, and the body hang and bleed thoroughly before +using. + +Pick out all the pin-feathers with the blade of a small knife. Turn back +the skin of the neck, loosening it with the finger and thumb, and draw out +the windpipe and crop, which can be done without making any cut. Now cut a +slit in the lower part of the fowl, the best place being close to the +thigh. By working the fingers in slowly, keeping them close to the body, +the whole intestines can be removed in a mass. Be especially careful not +to break the gall-bag, which is near the upper part of the breastbone, and +attached to the liver. If this operation is carefully performed, it will +be by no means so disagreeable as it seems. A French cook simply wipes out +the inside, considering that much flavor is lost by washing. I prefer to +wash in one water, and dry quickly, though in the case of an old fowl, +which often has a strong smell, it is better to dissolve a teaspoonful of +soda in the first water, which should be warm, and wash again in cold, +then wiping dry as possible. Split and wash the gizzard, reserving it for +gravy. + + +DRESSING FOR POULTRY. + +One pint of bread or cracker crumbs, into which mix dry one teaspoonful of +pepper, one of thyme or summer savory, one even tablespoonful of salt, +and, if in season, a little chopped parsley. Melt a piece of butter the +size of an egg in one cup of boiling water, and mix with the crumbs, +adding one or two well-beaten eggs. A slice of salt pork chopped fine is +often substituted for the butter. + +For _ducks_ two onions are chopped fine, and added to the above; or a +potato dressing is made, as for geese, using six large boiled potatoes, +mashed hot, and seasoned with an even tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful +each of sage and pepper, and two chopped onions. + +_Game_ is usually roasted unstuffed; but grouse and prairie-chickens may +have the same dressing as chickens and turkeys, this being used also for +boiled fowls. + + +ROAST TURKEY. + +Prepare by cleaning, as in general directions above, and, when dry, rub +the inside with a teaspoonful of salt. Put the gizzard, heart, and liver +on the fire in a small saucepan, with one quart of boiling water and one +teaspoonful of salt, and boil two hours. Put a little stuffing in the +breast, and fold back the skin of the neck, holding it with a stitch or +with a small skewer. Put the remainder in the body, and sew it up with +darning-cotton. Cross and tie the legs down tight, and run a skewer +through the wings to fasten them to the body. Lay it in the roasting-pan, +and for an eight-pound turkey allow not less than three hours' time, a ten +or twelve pound one needing four. Put a pint of boiling water with one +teaspoonful of salt in the pan, and add to it as it dries away. Melt a +heaping tablespoonful of butter in the water, and baste very often. The +secret of a handsomely-browned turkey, lies in this frequent basting. +Dredge over the flour two or three times, as in general roasting +directions, and turn the turkey so that all sides will be reached. When +done, take up on a hot platter. Put the baking-pan on the stove, having +before this chopped the gizzard and heart fine, and mashed the liver, and +put them in the gravy-tureen. Stir a tablespoonful of brown flour into +the gravy in the pan, scraping up all the brown, and add slowly the water +in which the giblets were boiled, which should be about a pint. Strain on +to the chopped giblets, and taste to see if salt enough. The gravy for all +roast poultry is made in this way. Serve with cranberry sauce or jelly. + + +ROAST OR BOILED CHICKENS. + +Stuff and truss as with turkeys, and to a pair of chickens weighing two +and a half pounds each, allow one hour to roast, basting often, and making +a gravy as in preceding receipt. + +Boil as in rule for turkeys. + + +ROAST DUCK. + +After cleaning, stuff as in rule given for poultry dressing, and +roast,--if game, half an hour; if tame, one hour, making gravy as in +directions given, and serving with currant jelly. + + +ROAST GOOSE. + +No fat save its own is needed in basting a goose, which, if large, +requires two hours to roast. Skim off as much fat as possible before +making the gravy, as it has a strong taste. + + +BIRDS. + +Small birds may simply be washed and wiped dry, tied firmly, and roasted +twenty minutes, dredging with flour, basting with butter and water, and +adding a little currant jelly or wine to the gravy. They may be served on +toast. + + +FRIED CHICKEN. + +Cut the chicken into nice pieces for serving. Roll in flour, or, if +preferred, in beaten egg and crumbs. Heat a cupful of nice dripping or +lard; add a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; lay in the +pieces, and fry brown on each side, allowing not less than twenty minutes +for the thickest pieces and ten for the thin ones. Lay on a hot platter, +and make a gravy by adding one tablespoonful of flour to the fat, stirring +smooth, and adding slowly one cupful of boiling water or stock. Strain +over the chicken. Milk or cream is often used instead of water. + + +BROWN FRICASSEE. + +Fry one or two chickens as above, using only flour to roll them in. Three +or four slices of salt pork may be used, cutting them in bits, and frying +brown, before putting in the chicken. When fried, lay the pieces in a +saucepan, and cover with warm water, adding one teaspoonful of salt and a +saltspoonful of pepper. Cover closely, and stew one hour, or longer if the +chickens are old. Take up the pieces, and thicken the gravy with one +tablespoonful of flour, first stirred smooth in a little cold water. Or +the flour may be added to the fat in the pan after frying, and water +enough for a thin gravy, which can all be poured into the saucepan, though +with this method there is more danger of burning. If not dark enough, +color with a teaspoonful of caramel. By adding a chopped onion fried in +the fat, and a teaspoonful of curry-powder, this becomes a curry, to be +served with boiled rice. + + +WHITE FRICASSEE. + +Cut up the chicken as in brown fricassee, and stew without frying for an +hour and a half, reducing the water to about one pint. Take up the chicken +on a hot platter. Melt one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add +a heaping tablespoonful of flour, stirring constantly till smooth. Pour in +slowly one cup of milk, and, as it boils and thickens, add the chicken +broth, and serve. This becomes a pot-pie by adding biscuit-crust as in +rule for veal pot-pie, p. 150, and serving in the same way. The same crust +may also be used with a brown fricassee, but is most customary with a +white. + + +CHICKEN PIE. + +Make a fricassee, as above directed, either brown or white, as best liked, +and a nice pie-crust, as on p. 224, or a biscuit-crust if pie-crust is +considered too rich. Line a deep baking-dish with the crust; a good way +being to use a plain biscuit-crust for the lining, and pie-crust for the +lid. Lay in the cooked chicken; fill up with the gravy, and cover with +pastry, cutting a round hole in the centre; and bake about three-quarters +of an hour. The top can be decorated with leaves made from pastry, and in +this case will need to have a buttered paper laid over it for the first +twenty minutes, that they need not burn. Eat either cold or hot. Game pies +can be made in the same way, and veal is a very good substitute for +chicken. Where veal is used, a small slice of ham may be added, and a +little less salt; both veal and ham being cut very small before filling +the pie. + + +BOILED TURKEY. + +Clean, stuff, and truss the fowl selected, as for a roasted turkey. The +body is sometimes filled with oysters. To truss in the tightest and most +compact way, run a skewer under the leg-joint between the leg and the +thigh, then through the body and under the opposite leg-joint in the same +way; push the thighs up firmly close to the sides; wind a string about the +ends of the skewer, and tie it tight. Treat the wings in the same way, +though in boiled fowls the points are sometimes drawn under the back, and +tied there. The turkey may be boiled with or without cloth around it. In +either case use _boiling_ water, salted as for stock, and allow twenty +minutes to the pound. It is usually served with oyster sauce, but parsley +or capers may be used instead. + + +CHICKEN CROQUETTES. + +Take all the meat from a cold roast or boiled chicken, and chop moderately +fine. Mince an onion very small, and fry brown in a piece of butter the +size of an egg. Add one small cup of stock or water; one saltspoonful each +of pepper and mace; one teaspoonful of salt; the juice of half a lemon; +two well-beaten eggs; and, if liked, a glass of wine. Make into small +rolls like corks, or mold in a pear shape, sticking in a clove for the +stem when fried. Roll in sifted cracker-crumbs; dip in an egg beaten with +a spoonful of water, and again in crumbs; put in the frying-basket, and +fry in boiling lard. Drain on brown paper, and pile on a napkin in +serving. + +A more delicate croquette is made by using simply the white meat, and +adding a set of calf's brains which have been boiled in salted water. A +cupful of boiled rice mashed fine is sometimes substituted for the +brains. Use same seasoning as above, adding quarter of a saltspoonful of +cayenne, omitting the wine, and using instead half a cup of cream or milk. +Fry as directed. Veal croquettes can hardly be distinguished from those of +chicken. + + +PHILADELPHIA CHICKEN CROQUETTES. + +The croquette first given is dry when fried, and even the second form is +somewhat so, many preferring them so. For the creamy delicious veal, +sweetbread, or chicken croquette one finds in Philadelphia, the following +materials are necessary: one pint of hot cream; two even tablespoonfuls of +butter; four heaping tablespoonfuls of sifted flour; half a teaspoonful of +salt; half a saltspoonful of white pepper; a dust of cayenne; half a +teaspoonful of celery salt; and one teaspoonful of onion juice. Scald the +cream in a double boiler. Melt the butter in an enameled or granite +saucepan, and as it boils, stir in the flour, stirring till perfectly +smooth. Add the cream very slowly, stirring constantly as it thickens, +adding the seasoning at the last. An egg may also be added, but the +croquettes are more creamy without it. To half a pound of chicken chopped +fine, add one teaspoonful of lemon juice and one of minced parsley, one +beaten egg and the pint of cream sauce. Spread on a platter to cool, and +when cool make into shapes, either corks or like pears; dip in egg and +crumbs, and fry in boiling fat. Oyster, sweetbread, and veal croquettes +are made by the same form, using a pint of chopped oysters. To the +sweetbreads a small can of mushrooms may be added cut in bits. + + +SALMI OF DUCKS OR GAME. + +Cut the meat from cold roast ducks or game into small bits. Break the +bones and trimmings, and cover with stock or cold water, adding two +cloves, two pepper-corns, and a bay-leaf or pinch of sweet herbs. Boil +till reduced to a cupful for a pint of meat. Mince two small onions fine, +and fry brown in two tablespoonfuls of butter; then add two tablespoonfuls +of flour and stir till deep brown, adding to it the strained broth from +the bones. Put in the bits of meat with one tablespoonful of lemon juice +and one of Worcestershire sauce. Simmer for fifteen minutes, and at the +last add, if liked, six or eight mushrooms and a glass of claret. Serve on +slices of fried bread, and garnish with fried bread and parsley. + + +CASSEROLE OF RICE AND MEAT. + +This can be made of any kind of meat, but is nicest of veal or poultry. +Boil a large cup of rice till tender, and let it cool. Chop fine half a +pound of meat, and season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a small grated +onion, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley and a pinch of cayenne. Add a +teacupful of cracker crumbs and a beaten egg, and wet with stock or hot +water enough to make it pack easily. Butter a tin mould, quart size best, +and line the bottom and sides with rice about half an inch thick. Pack in +the meat; cover with rice, and steam one hour. Loosen at edges; turn out +on hot platter, and pour tomato sauce around it. + + +ITALIA'S PRIDE. + +This is a favorite dish in the writer's family, having been sent many +years ago from Italy by a friend who had learned its composition from her +Italian cook. Its name was bestowed by the children of the house. One +large cup of chopped meat; two onions minced and fried brown in butter; a +pint of cold boiled macaroni or spaghetti; a pint of fresh or cold stewed +tomatoes; one teaspoonful of salt; half a teaspoonful of white pepper. +Butter a pudding dish, and put first a layer of macaroni, then tomato, +then meat and some onion and seasoning, continuing this till the dish is +full. Cover with fine bread crumbs, dot with bits of butter, and bake for +half an hour. Serve very hot. + + +DEVILED HAM. + +For this purpose use either the knuckle or any odds and ends remaining. +Cut off all dark or hard bits, and see that at least a quarter of the +amount is fat. Chop as finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. +For a pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows:-- + +One even tablespoonful of sugar; one even teaspoonful of ground mustard; +one saltspoonful of cayenne pepper; one spoonful of butter; one teacupful +of boiling vinegar. Mix the sugar, mustard, and pepper thoroughly, and add +the vinegar little by little. Stir it into the chopped ham, and pack it in +small molds, if it is to be served as a lunch or supper relish, turning +out upon a small platter and garnishing with parsley. + +For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin; butter lightly, and spread with +about a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. The root of a boiled tongue can be +prepared in the same way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in little +jars, and pour melted butter over the top. + + +BONED TURKEY. + +This is a delicate dish, and is usually regarded as an impossibility for +any ordinary housekeeper; and unless one is getting up a supper or other +entertainment, it is hardly worth while to undertake it. If the legs and +wings are left on, the boning becomes much more difficult. The best plan +is to cut off both them and the neck, boiling all with the turkey, and +using the meat for croquettes or hash. + +Draw only the crop and windpipe, as the turkey is more easily handled +before dressing. Choose a fat hen turkey of some six or seven pounds +weight, and cut off legs up to second joint, with half the wings and the +neck. Now, with a very sharp knife, make a clean cut down the entire back, +and holding the knife close to the body, cut away the flesh, first on one +side and then another, making a clean cut around the pope's nose. Be very +careful, in cutting down the breastbone, not to break through the skin. +The entire meat will now be free from the bones, save the pieces remaining +in legs and wings. Cut out these, and remove all sinews. Spread the turkey +skin-side down on the board. Cut out the breasts, and cut them up in long, +narrow pieces, or as you like. Chop fine a pound and a half of veal or +fresh pork, and a slice of fat ham also. Season with one teaspoonful of +salt, a saltspoonful each of mace and pepper, half a saltspoonful of +cayenne, and the juice of lemon. Cut half a pound of cold boiled smoked +tongue into dice. Make layers of this force-meat, putting half of it on +the turkey and then the dice of tongue, with strips of the breast between, +using force meat for the last layer. Roll up the turkey in a tight roll, +and sew the skin together. Now roll it firmly in a napkin, tying at the +ends and across in two places to preserve the shape. Cover it with boiling +water, salted as for stock, putting in all the bones and giblets, and two +onions stuck with three cloves each. Boil four hours. Let it cool in the +liquor. Take up in a pan, lay a tin sheet on it, and press with a heavy +weight. Strain the water in which it was boiled, and put in a cold place. + +Next day take off the napkin, and set the turkey in the oven a moment to +melt off any fat. It can be sliced and eaten in this way, but makes a +handsomer dish served as follows: + +Remove the fat from the stock, and heat three pints of it to +boiling-point, adding two-thirds of a package of gelatine which has been +soaked in a little cold water. Strain a cupful of this into some pretty +mold,--an ear of corn is a good shape,--and the remainder in two pans or +deep plates, coloring each with caramel,--a teaspoonful in one, and two in +the other. Lay the turkey on a small platter turned face down in a larger +one, and when the jelly is cold and firm, put the molded form on top of +it. Now cut part of the jelly into rounds with a pepper-box top or a small +star-cutter, and arrange around the mold, chopping the rest and piling +about the edge, so that the inner platter or stand is completely +concealed. The outer row of jelly can have been colored red by cutting up, +and boiling in the stock for it, half of a red beet. Sprigs of parsley or +delicate celery-tops may be used as garnish, and it is a very +elegant-looking as well as savory dish. The legs and wings can be left on +and trussed outside, if liked, making it as much as possible in the +original shape; but it is no better, and much more trouble. + + +JELLIED CHICKEN. + +Tenderness is no object here, the most ancient dweller in the barnyard +answering equally well, and even better than "broilers." + +Draw carefully, and if the fowl is old, wash it in water in which a +spoonful of soda has been dissolved, rinsing in cold. Put on in cold +water, and season with a tablespoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of +pepper. Boil till the meat slips easily from the bones, reducing the broth +to about a quart. Strain, and when cold, take off the fat. Where any +floating particles remain, they can always be removed by laying a piece of +soft paper on the broth for a moment. Cut the breast in long strips, and +the rest of the meat in small pieces. Boil two or three eggs hard, and +when cold, cut in thin slices. Slice a lemon very thin. Dissolve half a +package of gelatine in a little cold water; heat the broth to +boiling-point, and add a saltspoonful of mace, and if liked, a glass of +sherry, though it is not necessary, pouring it on the gelatine. Choose a +pretty mold, and lay in strips of the breast; then a layer of egg-slices, +putting them close against the mold. Nearly fill with chicken, laid in +lightly; then strain on the broth till it is nearly full, and set in a +cold place. Dip for an instant in hot water before turning out. It is nice +as a supper or lunch dish, and very pretty in effect. + + * * * * * + +SAUCES AND SALADS. + + +The foundation for a large proportion of sauces is in what the French cook +knows as a _roux_, and we as "drawn butter." As our drawn butter is often +lumpy, or with the taste of the raw flour, I give the French method as a +security against such disaster. + + +TO MAKE A ROUX. + +Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an egg, and add two even +tablespoonfuls of sifted flour; one ounce of butter to two of flour being +a safe rule. Stir till smooth, and pour in slowly one pint of milk, or +milk and water, or water alone. With milk it is called _cream roux_, and +is used for boiled fish and poultry. Where the butter and flour are +allowed to brown, it is called a _brown roux_, and is thinned with the +soup or stew which it is designed to thicken. Capers added to a _white +roux_--which is the butter and flour, with water added--give _caper +sauce_, for use with boiled mutton. Pickled nasturtiums are a good +substitute for capers. Two hard-boiled eggs cut fine give egg sauce. +Chopped parsley or pickle, and the variety of catchups and sauces, make an +endless variety; the _white roux_ being the basis for all of them. + + +BREAD SAUCE. + +For this sauce boil one point of milk, with one onion cut in pieces. When +it has boiled five minutes, take out the onion, and thicken the milk with +half a pint of sifted bread-crumbs. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in a +frying-pan; put in half a pint of coarser crumbs, stirring them till a +light brown. Flavor the sauce with half a teaspoonful of salt, a +saltspoonful of pepper, and a grate of nutmeg; and serve with game, +helping a spoonful of the sauce, and one of the browned crumbs. The boiled +onion may be minced fine and added, and the browned crumbs omitted. + + +CELERY SAUCE. + +Wash and boil a small head of celery, which has been cut up fine, in one +pint of water, with half a teaspoonful of salt. Boil till tender, which +will require about half an hour. Make a _cream roux_, using half a pint of +milk, and adding quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper. Stir into the +celery; boil a moment, and serve. A teaspoonful of celery salt can be +used, if celery is out of season, adding it to the full rule for _cream +roux_. Cauliflower may be used in the same way as celery, cutting it very +fine, and adding a large cupful to the sauce. Use either with boiled +meats. + + +MINT SAUCE. + +Look over and strip off the leaves, and cut them as fine as possible with +a sharp knife. Use none of the stalk but the tender tips. To a cupful of +chopped mint allow an equal quantity of sugar, and half a cup of good +vinegar. It should stand an hour before using. + + +CRANBERRY SAUCE. + +Wash one quart of cranberries in warm water, and pick them over carefully. +Put them in a porcelain-lined kettle, with one pint of cold water and one +pint of sugar, and cook without stirring for half an hour, turning then +into molds. This is the simplest method. They can be strained through a +sieve, and put in bowls, forming a marmalade, which can be cut in slices +when cold; or the berries can be crushed with a spoon while boiling, but +left unstrained. + + +APPLE SAUCE. + +Pare, core, and quarter some apples (sour being best), and stew till +tender in just enough water to cover them. Rub them through a sieve, +allowing a teacupful of sugar to a quart of strained apple, or even less, +where intended to eat with roast pork or goose. Where intended for lunch +or tea, do not strain, but treat as follows: Make a sirup of one large +cupful of sugar and one of water for every dozen good-sized apples. Add +half a lemon, cut in very thin slices. Put in the apple; cover closely, +and stew till tender, keeping the quarters as whole as possible. The lemon +may be omitted. + + +PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE. + +Make a _white roux_, with a pint of either water or milk; but water will +be very good. Add to it a large cup of sugar, a teaspoonful of lemon or +any essence liked, and a wine-glass of wine. Vinegar can be substituted. +Grate in a little nutmeg, and serve hot. + + +MOLASSES SAUCE. + +This sauce is intended especially for apple dumplings and puddings. One +pint of molasses; one tablespoonful of butter; the juice of one lemon, or +a large spoonful of vinegar. Boil twenty minutes. It may be thickened with +a tablespoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, but is +good in either case. + + +FOAMING SAUCE. + +Cream half a cup of butter till very light, and add a heaping cup of +sugar, beating both till white. Set the bowl in which it was beaten into a +pan of boiling water, and allow it to melt slowly. Just before serving +but _not before_, pour into it slowly half a cup or four spoonfuls of +boiling water, stirring to a thick foam. Grate in nutmeg, or use a +teaspoonful of lemon essence, and if wine is liked, add a glass of sherry +or a tablespoonful of brandy. For a pudding having a decided flavor of its +own, a sauce without wine is preferable. + + +HARD SAUCE + +Beat together the same proportions of butter and sugar as in the preceding +receipt; add a tablespoonful of wine if desired; pile lightly on a pretty +dish; grate nutmeg over the top, and set in a cold place till used. + + +FRUIT SAUCES. + +The sirup of any nice canned fruit may be used cold as sauce for cold +puddings and blancmanges, or heated and thickened for hot, allowing to a +pint of juice a heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch dissolved in a little +cold water, and boiling it five minutes. Strawberry or raspberry sirup is +especially nice. + + +PLAIN SALAD DRESSING. + +Three tablespoonfuls of best olive-oil; one tablespoonful of vinegar; one +saltspoonful each of salt and pepper mixed together; and then, with three +tablespoonfuls of best olive-oil, adding last the tablespoonful of +vinegar. This is the simplest form of dressing. The lettuce, or other +salad material, must be fresh and crisp, and should not be mixed till the +moment of eating. + + +SPANISH TOMATO SAUCE. + +One can of tomatoes or six large fresh ones; two minced onions fried brown +in a large tablespoonful of butter. Add to the tomatoes with three sprigs +of parsley and thyme, one teaspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper; +three cloves and two allspice, with a small blade of mace and a bit of +lemon peel, and two lumps of sugar. Stew very slowly for two hours, then +rub through a sieve, and return to the fire. Add two tablespoonfuls of +flour, browned with a tablespoonful of butter, and boil up once. It should +be smooth and thick. Keep on ice, and it will keep a week. Excellent. + + +MAYONNAISE SAUCE. + +For this sauce use the yolks of three raw eggs; one even tablespoonful of +mustard; one of sugar; one teaspoonful of salt; and a saltspoonful of +cayenne. + +Break the egg yolks into a bowl; beat a few strokes, and gradually add the +mustard, sugar, salt, and pepper. Now take a pint bottle of best +olive-oil, and stir in a few drops at a time. The sauce will thicken like +a firm jelly. When the oil is half in, add the juice of one lemon by +degrees with the remainder of the oil; and last, add quarter of a cup of +good vinegar. This will keep for weeks, and can be used with either +chicken, salmon, or vegetable salad. + +A simpler form can be made with the yolk of one egg, half a pint of oil, +and half the ingredients given above. It can be colored red with the juice +of a boiled beet, or with the coral of a lobster, and is very nice as a +dressing for raw tomatoes, cutting them in thick slices, and putting a +little of it on each slice. + +Mayonnaise may be varied in many ways, _sauce tartare_ being a favorite +one. This is simply two even tablespoonfuls of capers, half a small onion, +and a tablespoonful of parsley, and two gherkins or a small cucumber, all +minced fine and added to half a pint of mayonnaise. This keeps a long +time, and is very nice for fried fish or plain boiled tongue. + + +DRESSING WITHOUT OIL. + +Cream a small cup of butter, and stir into it the yolks of three eggs. Mix +together one teaspoonful of mustard, one teaspoonful of salt, and quarter +of a saltspoonful of cayenne, and add to the butter and egg. Stir in +slowly, instead of oil, one cup of cream, and add the juice of one lemon +and half a cup of vinegar. + + +BOILED DRESSING FOR COLD SLAW. + +This is good also for vegetable salads. One small cup of good vinegar; two +tablespoonfuls of sugar; half a teaspoonful each of salt and mustard; a +saltspoonful of pepper; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; and two +beaten eggs. Put these all in a small saucepan over the fire, and stir +till it becomes a smooth paste. Have a firm, white cabbage, very cold, and +chopped fine; and mix the dressing well through it. It will keep several +days in a cold place. + + +CHICKEN SALAD. + +Boil a tender chicken, and when cold, cut all the meat in dice. Cut up +white tender celery enough to make the same amount, and mix with the meat. +Stir into it a tablespoonful of oil with three of vinegar, and a +saltspoonful each of mustard and salt, and let it stand an hour or two. +When ready to serve, mix the whole with a mayonnaise sauce, leaving part +to mask the top; or use the mayonnaise alone, without the first dressing +of vinegar and oil. Lettuce can be substituted for celery; and where +neither is obtainable, a crisp white cabbage may be chopped fine, and the +meat of the chicken also, and either a teaspoonful of extract of celery or +celery-seed used to flavor it The fat of the chicken, taken from the water +in which it was boiled, carefully melted and strained, and cooled again, +is often used by Southern housekeepers. + + +SALMON MAYONNAISE. + +Carefully remove all the skin and bones from a pound of boiled salmon, or +use a small can of the sealed, draining away all the liquid. Cut in small +pieces, and season with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a small onion +minced fine, and half a teaspoonful each of salt and pepper. Cover the +bottom of the salad dish with crisp lettuce-leaves; lay the salmon on it, +and pour on the sauce. The meat of a lobster can be treated in the same +way. + + * * * * * + +EGGS, CHEESE, AND BREAKFAST DISHES. + + +BOILED EGGS. + +Let the water be boiling fast when the eggs are put in, that it may not be +checked. They should have lain in warm water a few minutes before boiling, +to prevent the shells cracking. Allow three minutes for a soft-boiled egg; +four, to have the white firmly set; and ten, for a hard-boiled egg. +Another method is to pour boiling water on the eggs, and let them stand +for ten minutes where they will be nearly at boiling-point, though not +boiling. The white and yolk are then perfectly cooked, and of jelly-like +consistency. + + +POACHED EGGS. + +Have a deep frying-pan full of boiling water,--simmering, not boiling +furiously. Put in two teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt. +Break each egg into a cup or saucer, allowing one for each person; slide +gently into the water, and let them stand five minutes, but without +boiling. Have ready small slices of buttered toast which have been +previously dipped quickly into hot water. Take up the eggs on a skimmer; +trim the edges evenly, and slip off upon the toast, serving at once. For +fried eggs, see _Ham and Eggs_, p. 158. + + +SCRAMBLED EGGS. + +Break half a dozen eggs into a bowl, and beat for a minute. Have the +frying-pan hot. Melt a tablespoonful of butter, with an even teaspoonful +of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper, and turn in the eggs. Stir them +constantly as they harden, until they are a firm yet delicate mixture of +white and yellow, and turn into a hot dish, serving at once. A cup of milk +may be added if liked. The whole operation should not exceed five minutes. + + +BAKED EGGS. + +Break the eggs into a buttered pudding-dish. Salt and pepper them very +lightly, and bake in a quick oven till set. Or turn over them a cupful of +good gravy, that of veal or poultry being especially nice, and bake in +the same way. Serve in the dish they were baked in. + + +STUFFED EGGS. + +Boil eggs for twenty minutes. Drop them in cold water, and when cold, take +off the shells, and cut the egg in two lengthwise. Take out the yolks +carefully; rub them fine on a plate, and add an equal amount of deviled +ham, or of cold tongue or chicken, minced very fine. If chicken is used, +add a saltspoonful of salt and a pinch of cayenne. Roll the mixture into +little balls the size of the yolk; fill each white with it; arrange on a +dish with sprigs of parsley, and use cold as a lunch dish. They can also +be served hot by laying them in a deep buttered pie-plate, covering with a +cream _roux_, dusting thickly with bread-crumbs, and browning in a quick +oven. + + +PLAIN OMELET. + +The pan for frying an omelet should be clean and very smooth. Break the +eggs one by one into a cup, to avoid the risk of a spoiled one. Allow from +three to five, but never _over_ five, for a single omelet. Turn them into +a bowl, and give them twelve beats with whisk or fork. Put butter the size +of an egg into the frying-pan, and let it run over the entire surface. As +it begins to boil, turn in the eggs. Hold the handle of the pan in one +hand, and with the other draw the egg constantly up from the edges as it +sets, passing a knife underneath to let the butter run under. Shake the +pan now and then to keep the omelet from scorching. It should be firm at +the edges, and creamy in the middle. When done, either fold over one-half +on the other, and turn on to a hot platter to serve at once, or set in the +oven a minute to brown the top, turning it out in a round. A little +chopped ham or parsley may be added. The myriad forms of omelet to be +found in large cook-books are simply this plain one, with a spoonful or so +of chopped mushrooms or tomatoes or green pease laid in the middle of it +just before folding and serving. A variation is also made by beating +whites and yolks separately, then adding half a cup of cream or milk; +doubling the seasoning given above, and then following the directions for +frying. Quarter of an onion and a sprig or two of parsley minced fine are +a very nice addition. A cupful of finely minced fish, either fresh or +salt, makes a fish omlet. Chopped oysters may also be used; and many +persons like a large spoonful of grated cheese, though this is a French +rather than American taste. + + +BAKED OMELET. + +One large cup of milk; five eggs; a saltspoonful of salt; and half a one +of white pepper mixed with the last. Beat the eggs well, a Dover +egg-beater being the best possible one where yolks and whites are not +separated; add the salt and pepper, and then the milk. Melt a piece of +butter the size of an egg in a frying-pan, and when it boils, pour in the +egg. Let it stand two minutes, or long enough to harden a little, but do +not stir at all. When a little firm, put into a quick oven, and bake till +brown. It will rise very high, but falls almost immediately. Serve at once +on a very hot platter. This omelet can also be varied with chopped ham or +parsley. The old-fashioned iron spider with short handle is best for +baking it, as a long-handled pan cannot be shut up in the oven. This +omelet can also be fried in large spoonfuls, like pancakes, rolling each +one as done. + + +CHEESE FONDU. + +This preparation of grated cheese and eggs can be made in a large dish for +several people, or in "portions" for one, each in a small earthen dish. +For one portion allow two eggs; half a saltspoonful of salt; a heaping +tablespoonful of grated cheese; two of milk; and a few grains of cayenne. +Melt a teaspoonful of butter in the dish, and when it boils, pour in the +cheese and egg, and cook slowly till it is well set. It is served in the +dish in which it is cooked, and should be eaten at once. + +An adaptation of this has been made by Mattieu Williams, the author of the +"Chemistry of Cookery." It is as follows:-- + +Soak enough slices of bread to fill a quart pudding-dish, in a pint of +milk, to which half a teaspoonful of salt and two beaten eggs have been +added. Butter the pudding-dish and lay in the bread, putting a thick +coating of grated cheese on each slice. Pour what milk may remain over the +top, and bake slowly about half an hour. + + +CHEESE SOUFFLE. + +Melt in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter, and add to it half a +teaspoonful of dry mustard; a grain of cayenne; a saltspoonful of white +pepper; a grate of nutmeg; two tablespoonfuls of flour; and stir all +smooth, adding a gill of milk and a large cupful of grated cheese. Stir +into this as much powdered bi-carbonate of potash as will stand on a +three-cent piece, and then beat in three eggs, yolks and whites beaten +separately. Pour this into a buttered earthen dish; bake in a quick oven, +and serve at once. In all cases where cheese disagrees it will be found +that the bi-carbonate of potash renders it harmless. + + +TO BOIL OATMEAL OR CRUSHED WHEAT. + +Have ready a quart of boiling water in a farina-boiler, or use a small +pail set in a saucepan of boiling water. If oatmeal or any grain is boiled +in a single saucepan, it forms, no matter how often it is stirred, a thick +crust on the bottom; and, as _never to stir_ is a cardinal rule for all +these preparations, let the next one be, a double boiler. + +Add a teaspoonful of salt to the quart of water in the inside boiler. Be +sure it is boiling, and then throw in one even cup of oatmeal or crushed +wheat. Now _let it alone_ for two hours, only being sure that the water in +the outside saucepan does not dry away, but boils steadily. When done, +each grain should be distinct, yet jelly-like. Stirring makes a mere mush, +neither very attractive nor palatable. If there is not time for this long +boiling in the morning, let it be done the afternoon before. Do not turn +out the oatmeal, but fill the outer boiler next morning, and let it boil +half an hour, or till heated through. + + +COARSE HOMINY. + +Treat like oatmeal, using same amount to a quart of water, save that it +must be thoroughly washed beforehand. Three hours' boiling is better than +two. + + +FINE HOMINY. + +Allow a cupful to a quart of boiling, salted water. Wash it in two or +three waters, put over, and boil steadily for half an hour, or till it +will pour out easily. If too thin, boil uncovered for a short time. Stir +in a tablespoonful of butter before sending to table. Any of these +preparations may be cut in slices when cold, floured on each side, and +fried brown like mush. + + +FINE HOMINY CAKES. + +One pint of cold boiled hominy; two eggs; a saltspoonful of salt; and a +tablespoonful of butter melted. Break up the hominy fine with a fork, and +add salt and butter. Beat the eggs,--whites and yolks separately; add the +yolks first, and last the whites; and either fry brown in a little butter +or drop by spoonfuls on buttered plates, and bake brown in a quick oven. +This is a nice side-dish at dinner. Oatmeal and wheat can be used in the +same way at breakfast. + + +HASTY PUDDING, OR MUSH. + +One cup of sifted Indian meal, stirred smooth in a bowl with a little cold +water. Have ready a quart of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt, +and pour in the meal. Boil half an hour, or till it will just pour, +stirring often. To be eaten hot with butter and sirup. Rye or graham flour +can be used in the same way. If intended to fry, pour the hot mush into a +shallow pan which has been wet with cold water to prevent its sticking. A +spoonful of butter may be added while hot, but is not necessary. Cut in +thin slices when cold; flour each side; and fry brown in a little butter +or nice drippings, serving hot. + + +WHAT TO DO WITH COLD POTATOES. + +Chop, as for hash; melt a tablespoonful of either butter or nice drippings +in a frying-pan; add, for six or eight good-sized potatoes, one even +teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. When the fat boils, put +in the potatoes, and fry for about ten minutes, or until well browned. As +soon as they are done, if not ready to use, move to the back of the stove, +that they may not burn. + +Or cut each potato in lengthwise slices; dredge on a little flour; and fry +brown on each side, watching carefully that they do not burn. The fat from +two or three slices of fried salt pork may be used for these. + + +LYONNAISE POTATOES. + +Slice six cold boiled potatoes. Mince very fine an onion and two or three +sprigs of parsley,--enough to fill a teaspoon. Melt in a frying-pan a +tablespoonful of butter; put in the onion, and fry light brown; then add +the potatoes, and fry to a light brown also, turning them often. Put into +a hot dish, stirring in the minced parsley, and pouring over them any +butter that may be left in the pan. + + +STEWED POTATOES. + +One pint of cold boiled potatoes cut in bits; one cup of milk; butter the +size of an egg; a heaping teaspoonful of flour. Melt the butter in a +saucepan; add the flour, and cook a moment; and pour in the milk, an even +teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of white pepper. When it boils, +add the potatoes. Boil a minute, and serve. + + +SARATOGA POTATOES. + +Pare potatoes, and slice thin as wafers, either with a potato-slicer or a +thin-bladed, very sharp knife. Lay in very cold water at least an hour +before using. If for breakfast, over-night is better. Have boiling lard at +least three inches deep in a frying kettle or pan. Dry the potatoes +thoroughly in a towel, and drop in a few slices at a time, frying to a +golden brown. Take out with a skimmer, and lay on a double brown paper in +the oven to dry, salting them lightly. They may be eaten either hot or +cold. Three medium-sized potatoes will make a large dishful; or, as they +keep perfectly well, enough may be done at once for several meals, heating +them a few minutes in the oven before using. + + +FISH BALLS. + +One pint of cold salt fish, prepared as on page 136, and chopped very +fine. Eight good-sized, freshly-boiled potatoes, or enough to make a quart +when mashed. Mash with half a teaspoonful of salt, and a heaping +tablespoonful of butter, and, if liked, a teaspoonful of made mustard. Mix +in the chopped fish, blending both thoroughly. Make into small, round +cakes; flour on each side; and fry brown in a little drippings or fat of +fried pork. A nicer way is to make into round balls, allowing a large +tablespoonful to each. Roll in flour; or they can be egged and crumbed +like croquettes. Drop into boiling lard; drain on brown paper, and serve +hot. Fresh fish can be used in the same way, and is very nice. +Breadcrumbs, softened in milk, can be used instead of potato, but are not +so good. + + +FISH HASH. + +Use either fresh fish or salt. If the former, double the measure of salt +will be needed. Prepare and mix as in fish balls, allowing always double +the amount of fresh mashed potato that you have of fish. Melt a large +spoonful of butter or drippings in a frying-pan. When hot, put in the +fish. Let it stand till brown on the bottom, and then stir. Do this two or +three times, letting it brown at the last, pressing it into omelet form, +and turning out on a hot platter, or piling it lightly. + + +FISH WITH CREAM. + +One pint of cold minced fish, either salt cod or fresh fish; always +doubling the amount of seasoning given if fresh is used. Melt in a +frying-pan a tablespoonful of butter; stir in a heaping one of flour, and +cook a minute; then add a pint of milk and a saltspoonful each of salt and +pepper. When it boils, stir in the fish, and add two well-beaten eggs. +Cook for a minute, and serve very hot. + +Cold salmon, or that put up unspiced, is nice done in this way. The eggs +can be omitted, but it is not as good. If cream is plenty, use part cream. +Any cold boiled fresh fish can be used in this way. + + +SALT MACKEREL OR ROE HERRING. + +Soak over-night, the skin-side up. In the morning wipe dry, and either +broil, as in general directions for broiling fish, page 133, or fry brown +in pork fat or drippings. + +Salted shad are treated in the same way. All are better broiled. + + +FRIED SAUSAGES. + +If in skins, prick them all over with a large darning-needle or fork; +throw them into a saucepan of boiling water and boil for one minute. Take +out, wipe dry, and lay in a hot frying-pan, in which has been melted a +tablespoonful of hot lard or drippings. Turn often. As soon as brown they +are done. If gravy is wanted, stir a tablespoonful of flour into the fat +in the pan; add a cup of boiling water, and salt to taste,--about a +saltspoonful,--and pour, not _over_, but around the sausages. Serve hot. + + +FRIZZLED BEEF. + +Half a pound of smoked beef cut very thin. This can be just heated in a +tablespoonful of hot butter, and then served, or prepared as follows:-- + +Pour boiling water on the beef, and let it stand five minutes. In the +meantime melt in a frying-pan one tablespoonful of butter; stir in a +tablespoonful of flour, and add slowly half a pint of milk or water. Put +in the beef which has been taken from the water; cook a few minutes, and +add two or three well-beaten eggs, cooking only a minute longer. It can be +prepared without eggs, or they may be added to the beef just heated in +butter; but the last method is best. + + +VEAL LOAF. + +Three pounds of lean veal and quarter of a pound of salt pork chopped very +fine. Mince an onion as fine as possible. Grate a nutmeg, or use half a +teaspoonful of powdered mace, mixing it with an even tablespoonful of +salt, and an even saltspoonful of cayenne pepper. Add three well-beaten +eggs, a teacupful of milk, and a large spoonful of melted butter. Mix the +ingredients very thoroughly; form into a loaf; cover thickly with sifted +bread or cracker crumbs, and bake three hours, basting now and then with a +little butter and water. When cold, cut in thin slices, and use for +breakfast or tea. It is good for breakfast with baked potatoes, and slices +of it are sometimes served around a salad. A glass of wine is sometimes +added before baking. + + +MEAT HASH. + +The English hash is meat cut either in slices or mouthfuls, and warmed in +the gravy; and the Southern hash is the same. A genuine hash, however, +requires potato, and may be made of any sort of meat; cold roast beef +being excellent, and cold corned beef best of all. Mutton is good; but +veal should always be used as a mince, and served on toast as in the rule +to be given. + +Chop the meat fine, and allow one-third meat to two-thirds potato. For +corned-beef hash the potatoes should be freshly boiled and mashed. For +other cold meats finely-chopped cold potatoes will answer. To a quart of +the mixture allow a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper +mixed together, and sprinkled on the meat before chopping. Heat a +tablespoonful of butter or nice drippings in a frying-pan; moisten the +hash with a little cold gravy or water; and heat slowly, stirring often. +It may be served on buttered toast when hot, without browning, but is +better browned. To accomplish this, first heat through, then set on the +back of the stove, and let it stand twenty minutes. Fold like an omelet, +or turn out in a round, and serve hot. + + +MINCED VEAL. + +Chop cold veal fine, picking out all bits of gristle. To a pint-bowlful +allow a large cup of boiling water; a tablespoonful of butter and one of +flour; a teaspoonful of salt; and a saltspoonful each of pepper and mace. +Make a _roux_ with the butter and flour, and add the seasoning; put in the +veal, and cook five minutes, serving it on buttered toast, made as in +directions given for water toast. + + +TOAST, DRY OR BUTTERED. + +Not one person in a hundred makes good toast; yet nothing can be simpler. +Cut the slices of bread evenly, and rather thin. If a wire toaster is +used, several can be done at once. Hold just far enough from the fire to +brown nicely; and turn often, that there may be no scorching. Toast to an +even, golden brown. No rule will secure this, and only experience and care +will teach one just what degree of heat will do it. If to be buttered dry, +butter each slice evenly as taken from the fire, and pile on a hot plate. +If served without butter, either send to table in a toast-rack, or, if on +a plate, do not pile together, but let the slices touch as little as +possible, that they may not steam and lose crispness. + + +WATER TOAST. + +Have a pan of boiling hot, well-salted water; a teaspoonful to a quart +being the invariable rule. Dip each slice of toast quickly into this. It +must not be _wet_, but only moistened. Butter, and pile on a hot plate. +Poached eggs and minces are served on this form of toast, which is also +nice with fricasseed chicken. + + +MILK TOAST. + +Scald a quart of milk in a double boiler, and thicken it with two even +tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, or the +same amount of flour. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and a heaping +tablespoonful of butter. Have ready a dozen slices of water toast, which, +unless wanted quite rich, needs no butter. Pour the thickened milk into a +pan, that each slice may be easily dipped into it, and pile them when +dipped in a deep dish, pouring the rest of the milk over them. Serve very +hot. Cream is sometimes used instead of milk, in which case no thickening +is put in, and only a pint heated with a saltspoonful of salt. + + * * * * * + +TEA, COFFEE, ETC. + +For these a cardinal rule has already been given in Part I., but can not +be enforced too often; viz., the necessity of fresh water boiled, and used +as soon as it boils, that the gases which give it character and sparkle +may not have had time to escape. Tea and coffee both should be kept from +the air, but the former even more carefully than the latter, as the +delicate flavor evaporates more quickly. + + +TEA. + +To begin with, never use a tin teapot if an earthen one is obtainable. An +even teaspoonful of dry tea is the usual allowance for a person. Scald the +teapot with a little _boiling water_, and pour it off. Put in the tea, and +pour on not over a cup of boiling water, letting it stand a minute or two +for the leaves to swell. Then fill with the needed amount of _water still +boiling_, this being about a small cupful to a person. Cover closely, and +let it stand five minutes. Ten will be required for English breakfast tea, +but _never boil_ either, above all in a tin pot. Boiling liberates the +tannic acid of the tea, which acts upon the tin, making a compound bitter +and metallic in taste, and unfit for human stomachs. + + +COFFEE. + +The best coffee is made from a mixture of two-thirds Java and one-third +Mocha; the Java giving strength, and the Mocha flavor and aroma. The +roasting must be very perfectly done. If done at home, constant stirring +is necessary to prevent burning; but all good grocers use now rotary +roasters, which brown each grain perfectly. Buy in small quantities +_unground_; keep closely covered; and if the highest flavor is wanted, +heat hot before grinding. + +A noted German chemist claims to have discovered an effectual antidote to +the harmful effects of coffee,--an antidote for which he had searched for +years. In his experiments he discovered that the fibre of cotton, in its +natural state before bleaching, neutralizes the harmful principle of the +caffein. To make absolutely harmless coffee which yet has no loss of +flavor, it is to be boiled in a bag of unbleached cheese-cloth or +something equally porous. In the coffee-pot of his invention, the rounds +of cotton are slipped between two cylinders of tin, and the boiling water +is poured through once or twice, on the same principle as French filtered +coffee. The cloths must be rinsed in hot and then cold water daily and +carefully dried; and none are to be used longer than one week, as at the +end of that time, even with careful washing, the fibre is saturated with +the harmful principle. The same proportions of coffee as those given below +are used, and the pot must stand in a hot place while the water filters +through. + +For a quart of coffee allow four heaping tablespoonfuls of coffee when +ground. Scald the coffee-pot; mix the ground coffee with a little cold +water and two or three egg-shells, which can be dried and kept for this +purpose. Part of a fresh egg with the shell is still better. Put into the +hot coffee-pot, and pour on one quart of _boiling water_. Cover tightly, +and boil five minutes; then pour out a cupful to free the spout from +grounds, and return this to the pot. Let it stand a few minutes to settle, +and serve with boiled milk, and cream if it is to be had. Never for +appearance's sake decant coffee. Much of the flavor is lost by turning +from one pot into another, and the shapes are now sufficiently pretty to +make the block tin ones not at all unpresentable at table. + +Where coffee is required for a large company, allow a pound and a half to +a gallon of water. + +Coffee made in a French filter or biggin is considered better by many; but +I have preferred to give a rule that may be used with certainty where +French cooking utensils are unknown. + + +COCOA, BROMA, AND SHELLS. + +The directions found on packages of these articles are always reliable. +The _cocoa_ or _broma_ should be mixed smoothly with a little boiling +water, and added to that in the saucepan; one quart of either requiring a +pint each of milk and water, about three tablespoonfuls of cocoa, and a +small cup of sugar. A pinch of salt is always a great improvement. Boil +for half an hour. + +SHELLS are merely the husk of the cocoa-nut; and a cupful to a quart of +boiling water is the amount needed. Boil steadily an hour, and use with +milk and sugar. + + +CHOCOLATE. + +This rule, though unlike that given in cook-books generally, makes a drink +in consistency and flavor like that offered at Maillard's or Mendee's, the +largest chocolate manufacturers in the country. + +Scrape or grate fine two squares (two ounces) of Baker's or any +unsweetened chocolate. Add to this one small cup of sugar and a pinch of +salt, and put into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of water. Stir for a +few minutes till smooth and glossy, and then pour in gradually one pint of +milk and one of boiling water. Let all boil a minute. Dissolve one heaping +teaspoonful of corn-starch or arrow-root in a little cold water, and add +to the chocolate. Boil one minute, and serve. If cream can be had, whip to +a stiff froth, allowing two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a few drops of +vanilla essence to a cup of cream. Serve a spoonful laid on the top of the +chocolate in each cup. The corn-starch may be omitted, but is necessary +to the perfection of this rule, the following of which renders the +chocolate not only smooth, but entirely free from any oily particles. +Flavor is lost by any longer boiling, though usually half an hour has been +considered necessary. + + * * * * * + +VEGETABLES. + + +POTATOES. + +To be able to boil a potato perfectly is one of the tests of a good cook, +there being nothing in the whole range of vegetables which is apparently +so difficult to accomplish. Like the making of good bread, nothing is +simpler when once learned. A good boiled potato should be white, mealy, +and served very hot. If the potatoes are old, peel thinly with a sharp +knife; cut out all spots, and let them lie in cold water some hours before +using. It is more economical to boil before peeling, as the best part of +the potato lies next the skin; but most prefer them peeled. Put on in +boiling water, allowing a teaspoonful of salt to every quart of water. +Medium-sized potatoes will boil in half an hour. Let them be as nearly of +a size as possible, and if small and large are cooked at the same time, +put on the large ones ten or fifteen minutes before the small. When done, +pour off every drop of water; cover with a clean towel, and set on the +back of the range to dry for a few minutes before serving. The poorest +potato can be made tolerable by this treatment. Never let them wait for +other things, but time the preparation of dinner so that they will be +ready at the moment needed. New potatoes require no peeling, but should +merely be well washed and rubbed. + + +MASHED POTATOES. + +Boil as directed, and when dry and mealy, mash fine with a potato-masher +or large spoon, allowing for a dozen medium-sized potatoes a piece of +butter the size of an egg, half a cup of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and +half a teaspoonful of white pepper. The milk may be omitted if the potato +is preferred dry. Pile lightly in a dish, or smooth over, and serve at +once. Never brown in the oven, as it destroys the good flavor. + + +POTATO SNOW. + +Mash as above, and rub through a colander into a very hot dish, being +careful not to press it down in any way, and serve hot as possible. + + +BAKED POTATOES. + +Wash and scrub carefully, as some persons eat the skin. A large potato +requires an hour to bake. Their excellence depends upon being eaten the +moment they are done. + + +POTATOES WITH BEEF. + +Pare, and lay in cold water at least an hour. An hour before a roast of +beef is done, lay in the pan, and baste them when the beef is basted. They +are very nice. + +POTATO CROQUETTES. + +Cold mashed potatoes may be used, but fresh is better. To half a dozen +potatoes, mashed as in directions given, allow quarter of a saltspoonful +each of mace or nutmeg and cayenne pepper, and one beaten egg. Make in +little balls or rolls; egg and crumb, and fry in boiling lard. Drain on +brown paper, and serve like chicken croquettes. + + +SWEET POTATOES. + +Wash carefully, and boil without peeling from three-quarters of an hour to +an hour. Peel, and dry in the oven ten minutes. They are better baked, +requiring about an hour for medium-sized ones. + + +BEETS. + +Winter beets should be soaked over-night. Wash them carefully; but never +peel or even prick them, as color and sweetness would be lost. Put in +boiling, salted water. Young beets will cook in two hours; old ones +require five or six. Peel, and if large, cut in slices, putting a little +butter on each one. They can be served cold in a little vinegar. + + +PARSNIPS. + +Wash, and scrape clean; cut lengthwise in halves, and boil an hour, or two +if very old. Serve whole with a little drawn butter, or mash fine, season +well, allowing to half a dozen large parsnips a teaspoonful of salt, a +saltspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of butter. + + +PARSNIP FRITTERS. + +Three large parsnips boiled and mashed fine, adding two well-beaten eggs, +half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls +of milk, and one heaping one of flour. Drop in spoonfuls, and fry brown in +a little hot butter. _Oyster-plant_ fritters are made in the same way. + + +OYSTER-PLANT STEWED. + +Scrape, and throw at once into cold water with a little vinegar in it, to +keep them from turning black. Cut in small pieces, or boil whole for an +hour. Mash fine, and make like parsnip fritters; or drain the pieces dry, +and serve with drawn butter. + + +CARROTS. + +Carrots are most savory boiled with corned beef for two hours. They may +also be boiled plain, cut in slices, and served with drawn butter. For old +carrots not less than two hours will be necessary. Plenty of water must be +used, and when cold the carrots are to be cut in dice. Melt in a saucepan +a spoonful of butter; add half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of +pepper, and a teaspoonful of sugar, and when the butter boils put in the +carrots, and stir till heated through. Pile them in the centre of a +platter, and put around them a can of French peas, which have been cooked +in only a spoonful of water, with a teaspoonful of sugar, a spoonful of +butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper. This is a pretty +and excellent dish, and substantial as meat. A cup of stock can be added +to the carrots if desired, but they are better without it. + + +TURNIPS. + +Pare and cut in quarters. Boil in well-salted water for an hour, or until +tender. Drain off the water, and let them stand a few minutes to dry; then +mash fine, allowing for about a quart a teaspoonful of salt, half a one of +pepper, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. + +Or they may be left in pieces, and served with drawn butter. + + +CABBAGE. + +Wash, and look over very carefully, and lay in cold water an hour. Cut in +quarters, and boil with corned beef an hour, or till tender, or with a +small piece of salt pork. Drain, and serve whole as possible. A much nicer +way is to boil in well-salted water, changing it once after the first +half-hour. Boil an hour; take up and drain; chop fine, and add a teacupful +of milk, a piece of butter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, and +half a one of pepper. Serve very hot. For cabbage Virginia fashion, and +the best of fashions, too, bake this last form in a buttered pudding-dish, +having first stirred in two or three well-beaten eggs, and covered the top +with bread-crumbs. Bake till brown. + + +CAULIFLOWER. + +Wash and trim, and boil in a bag made of mosquito-netting to keep it +whole. Boil steadily in well-salted water for one hour. Dish carefully, +and pour over it a nice drawn butter. Any cold remains may be used as +salad, or chopped and baked, as in rule for baked cabbage. + + +ONIONS. + +If milk is plenty, use equal quantities of skim-milk and water, allowing a +quart of each for a dozen or so large onions. If water alone is used, +change it after the first half-hour, as this prevents their turning dark; +salting as for all vegetables, and boiling young onions one hour; old +ones, two. Either chop fine, and add a spoonful of butter, half a +teaspoonful of salt, and a little pepper, or serve them whole in a +dressing made by heating one cup of milk with the same butter and other +seasoning as when chopped. Put the onions in a hot dish, pour this over +them, and serve. They may also be half boiled; then put in a buttered +dish, covered with this sauce and a layer of bread-crumbs, and baked for +an hour. + + +WINTER SQUASH. + +Cut in two, and take out the seeds and fiber. Half will probably be enough +to cook at once. Cut this in pieces; pare off the rind, and lay each piece +in a steamer. Never boil in water if it can be avoided, as it must be as +dry as possible. Steam for two hours. Mash fine, or run through a +vegetable sifter, and, for a quart or so of squash, allow a piece of +butter the size of an egg, a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of +pepper. Serve very hot. + + +SUMMER SQUASH, OR CIMLINS. + +Steam as directed above, taking out the seeds, but not peeling them. Mash +through a colander; season, and serve hot. If very young, the seeds are +often cooked in them. Half an hour will be sufficient. + + +PEASE. + +Shell, and put over in boiling, salted water, to which a teaspoonful of +sugar has been added. Boil till tender, half an hour or a little more. +Drain off the water; add a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a +saltspoonful of salt. If the pease are old, put a bit of soda the size of +a pea in the water. + + +FIELD PEASE. + +These are generally used after drying. Soak over-night, and boil two +hours, or till tender, with or without a small piece of bacon. If +without, butter as for green pease. Or they can be mashed fine, rubbed +through a sieve, and then seasoned, adding a pinch of cayenne pepper. + +In Virginia they are often boiled, mashed a little, and fried in a large +cake. + + +SUCCOTASH. + +Boil green corn and beans separately. Cut the corn from the cob, and +season both as in either alone. A nicer way, however, is to score the rows +in half a dozen ears of corn; scrape off the corn; add a pint of lima or +any nice green bean, and boil one hour in a quart of boiling water, with +one teaspoonful each of salt and sugar, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Let +the water boil away to about a cupful; add a spoonful of butter, and serve +in a hot dish. Many, instead of butter, use with it a small piece of +pork,--about quarter of a pound; but it is better without. A spoonful of +cream may be added. Canned corn and beans may be used; and even dried +beans and coarse hominy--the former well soaked, and both boiled together +three hours--are very good. + + +STRING BEANS. + +String, cut in bits, and boil an hour if very young. If old, an hour and +an half, or even two, may be needed. Drain off the water, and season like +green pease. + + +SHELLED BEANS. + +Any green bean may be used in this way, lima and butter beans being the +nicest. Put on in boiling, salted water, and boil not less than one hour. +Season like string beans. + + +GREEN CORN. + +Husk, and pick off all the silk. Boil in well-salted water, and serve on +the cob, wrapped in a napkin, or cut off and seasoned like beans. Cutting +down through each row gives, when scraped off, the kernel without the +hull. + + +GREEN-CORN FRITTERS. + +One pint of green corn grated. This will require about six ears. Mix with +this, half a cup of milk, two well-beaten eggs, half a cup of flour, one +teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and a tablespoonful of +melted butter. Fry in very small cakes in a little hot butter, browning +well on both sides. Serve very hot. + + +CORN PUDDING. + +One pint of cut or grated corn, one pint of milk, two well-beaten eggs, +one teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Butter a +pudding-dish, and bake the mixture half an hour. Canned corn can be used +in the same way. + + +EGG-PLANT. + +Peel, cut in slices half an inch thick, and lay them in well-salted water +for an hour. Wipe dry; dip in flour or meal, and fry brown on each side. +Fifteen minutes will be needed to cook sufficiently. The slices can be +egged and crumbed before frying, and are nicer than when merely floured. + + +EGG-PLANT FRITTERS. + +Peel the egg-plant, and take out the seeds. Boil for an hour in +well-salted water. Drain as dry as possible; mash fine, and prepare +precisely like corn fritters. + + +BAKED EGG-PLANT. + +Peel, and cut out a piece from the top; remove the seeds, and fill the +space with a dressing like that for ducks, fitting in the piece cut out. +Bake an hour, basting with a spoonful of butter melted in a cup of water, +and dredging with flour between each basting. It is very nice. + + +ASPARAGUS. + +Wash, and cut off almost all of the white end. Tie up in small bundles; +put into boiling, salted water, and cook till tender,--about half an hour, +or more if old. + +Make some slices of water toast, as in rule given, using the water in +which the asparagus was boiled; lay the slices on a hot platter, and the +asparagus upon them, pouring a spoonful of melted butter over it. The +asparagus may be cut in little bits, and, when boiled, a drawn butter +poured over it, or served on toast, as when left whole. Cold asparagus may +be cut fine, and used in an omelet, or simply warmed over. + + +SPINACH. + +Not less than a peck is needed for a dinner for three or four. Pick over +carefully, wash, and let it lie in cold water an hour or two. Put on in +boiling, salted water, and boil an hour, or until tender. Take up in a +colander, that it may drain perfectly. Have in a hot dish a piece of +butter the size of an egg, half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of +pepper, and, if liked, a tablespoonful of vinegar. Chop the spinach fine, +and put in the dish, stirring in this dressing thoroughly. A teacupful of +cream is often added. Any tender greens, beet or turnip tops, kale, &c., +are treated in this way; kale, however, requiring two hours' boiling. + + +ARTICHOKES. + +Cut off the outside leaves; trim the bottom; throw into boiling, salted +water, with a teaspoonful of vinegar in it, and boil an hour. Season, and +serve like turnips, or with drawn butter poured over them. + + +TOMATOES STEWED. + +Pour on boiling water to take off the skins; cut in pieces, and stew +slowly for half an hour; adding for a dozen tomatoes a tablespoonful of +butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful +of sugar. Where they are preferred sweet, two tablespoonfuls of sugar will +be necessary. They may be thickened with a tablespoonful of flour or +corn-starch dissolved in a little cold water, or with half a cup of rolled +cracker or bread crumbs. Canned tomatoes are stewed in the same way. + + +BAKED TOMATOES. + +Take off the skins; lay the tomatoes in a buttered pudding-dish; put a bit +of butter on each one. Mix a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of +pepper, with a cup of bread or cracker crumbs, and cover the top. Bake an +hour. + +Or cut the tomatoes in bits, and put a layer of them and one of seasoned +crumbs, ending with crumbs. Dot the top with bits of butter, that it may +brown well, and bake in the same way. Canned tomatoes are almost equally +good. Thin slices of well-buttered bread may be used instead of crumbs. + + +FRIED TOMATOES. + +Cut in thick slices. Mix in a plate half a teacupful of flour, a +saltspoonful of salt, and half a one of pepper; and dip each slice in +this, frying brown in hot butter. + + +BROILED TOMATOES. + +Prepare as for frying, and broil in a wire broiler, putting a bit of +butter on each slice when brown, and serving on a hot dish or on buttered +toast. + + +RICE. + +Wash in cold water, changing it at least twice. It is better if allowed to +soak an hour. Drain, and throw into a good deal of boiling, salted water, +allowing not less than two quarts to a cupful of rice. Boil twenty +minutes, stirring now and then. Pour into a colander, that every drop of +water may drain off, and then set it at the back of the stove to dry for +ten minutes. In this way every grain is distinct, yet perfectly tender. If +old, half an hour's boiling may be required. Test by biting a grain at the +end of twenty minutes. If tender, it is done. + + +RICE CROQUETTES. + +Where used as a vegetable with dinner, to a pint of cold boiled rice allow +a tablespoonful of melted butter and one or two well-beaten eggs. Mix +thoroughly. A pinch of cayenne or a little chopped parsley may be added. +Make in the shape of corks; egg and crumb, and fry a golden brown. + + +MACARONI. + +Never wash macaroni if it can be avoided. Break in lengths of three or +four inches and throw into boiling, salted water, allowing quarter of a +pound for a dinner for three or four. Boil for half an hour, and drain off +the water. It may be served plain with tomato sauce, or simply buttered, +or with drawn butter poured over it. + + +MACARONI WITH CHEESE. + +Boil as directed. Make a pint of white sauce or _roux_, as on p. 169, +using milk if it can be had, though water answers. Have a cupful of good +grated cheese. Butter a pudding-dish. Put in a layer of macaroni, one of +sauce, and one of cheese, ending with cheese. Dust the top with sifted +bread or cracker crumbs, dot with bits of butter, and bake fifteen minutes +in a quick oven. It can be baked in the same way without cheese, or with +simply a cup of milk and two eggs added, making a sort of pudding. + + * * * * * + +BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. + +BREAD-MAKING AND FLOUR. + + +Much of the health, and consequently much of the happiness, of the family +depends upon good bread: therefore no pains should be spared in learning +the best method of making, which will prove easiest in the end. + +Yeast, flour, kneading, and baking must each be perfect, and nothing in +the whole range of cooking is of such prime importance. + +Once master the problem of yeast, and the first form of wheat bread, and +endless varieties of both bread and breakfast cakes can be made. + +The old and the new process flour--the former being known as the St. +Louis, and the latter as Haxall flour--are now to be had at all good +grocers; and from either good bread may be made, though that from the +latter keeps moist longer. Potapsco flour is of the same quality as the +St. Louis. It contains more starch than the St. Louis, and for this reason +requires, even more than that, the use in the family of coarser or graham +flour at the same time; white bread alone not being as nutritious or +strengthening, for reasons given in Part I. Graham flour is fast being +superseded by a much better form, prepared principally by the Health Food +Company in New York, in which the entire grain, save the husk, is ground +as fine as the ordinary flour, thus doing away with the coarseness that +many have objected to in graham bread. + +Flour made by the new process swells more than that by the old, and a +little less quantity--about an eighth less--is therefore required in +mixing and kneading. As definite rules as possible are given for the whole +operation; but experience alone can insure perfect bread, changes of +temperature affecting it at once, and baking being also a critical point. + +Pans made of thick tin, or, better still, of Russia iron, ten inches long, +four or five wide, and four deep, make the best-shaped loaf, and one +requiring a reasonably short time to bake. + + +YEAST. + +Ingredients: One teacupful of lightly broken hops; one pint of sifted +flour; one cupful of sugar; one tablespoonful of salt; four large or six +medium-sized potatoes; and two quarts of boiling water. + +Boil the potatoes, and mash them fine. At the same time, having tied the +hops in a little bag, boil them for half an hour in the two quarts of +water, but in another saucepan. Mix the flour, sugar, and salt well +together in a large mixing-bowl, and pour on the boiling hop-water, +stirring constantly. Now add enough of this to the mashed potato to thin +it till it can be poured, and mix all together, straining it through a +sieve to avoid any possible lumps. Add to this, when cool, either a cupful +of yeast left from the last, or of baker's yeast, or a Twin Brothers' +yeast cake dissolved in a little warm water. Let it stand till partly +light, and then stir down two or three times in the course of five or six +hours, as this makes it stronger. At the end of that time it will be +light. Keep in a covered stone jar, or in glass cans. By stirring in +corn-meal till a dough is made, and then forming it in small cakes and +drying in the sun, _dry yeast_ is made, which keeps better than the liquid +in hot weather. Crumb, and soak in warm water half an hour before using. + +_Potato yeast_ is made by omitting hops and flour, but mashing the +potatoes fine with the same proportion of other ingredients, and adding +the old yeast, when cool, as before. It is very nice, but must be made +fresh every week; while the other, kept in a cool place, will be good a +month. + + +BREAD. + +For four loaves of bread of the pan-size given above, allow as follows: +Four quarts of flour; one large cup of yeast; one tablespoonful of salt, +one of sugar, and one of butter or lard; one pint of milk mixed with one +of warm water, or one quart of water alone for the "wetting." + +Sift the flour into a large pan or bowl. Put the sugar, salt, and butter +in the bottom of the bread pan or bowl, and pour on a spoonful or two of +boiling water, enough to dissolve all. Add the quart of wetting, and the +yeast. Now stir in slowly two quarts of the flour; cover with a cloth, +and set in a temperature of about 75 deg. to rise until morning. Bread mixed +at nine in the evening will be ready to mould into loaves or rolls by six +the next morning. In summer it would be necessary to find a cool place; in +winter a warm one,--the chief point being to keep the temperature _even_. +If mixed early in the morning, it is ready to mold and bake in the +afternoon, from seven to eight hours being all it should stand. + +This first mixture is called a _sponge_; and, if only a loaf of graham or +rye bread is wanted, one quart of it can be measured, and thickened with +other flour as in the rules given hereafter. + +To finish as _wheat bread_, stir in enough flour from the two quarts +remaining to make a dough. Flour the molding-board very thickly, and turn +out. Now begin kneading, flouring the hands, but after the dough is +gathered into a smooth lump, using as little flour as may be. Knead with +the palm of the hand as much as possible. The dough quickly becomes a flat +cake. Fold it over, and keep on, kneading not less than twenty minutes; +half an hour being better. + +Make into loaves; put into the pans; set them in a warm place, and let +them rise from thirty to forty-five minutes, or till they have become +nearly double in size. Bake in an oven hot enough to brown a teaspoonful +of flour in one minute; spreading the flour on a bit of broken plate, that +it may have an even heat. Loaves of this size will bake in from forty-five +to sixty minutes. Then take them from the pans; wrap in thick cloths kept +for the purpose and stand them, tilted up against the pans till cold. +Never lay hot bread on a pine table, as it will sweat, and absorb the +pitchy odor and taste; but tilt, so that air may pass around it freely. +Keep well covered in a tin box or large stone pot, which should be wiped +out every day or two, and scalded and dried thoroughly now and then. Pans +for wheat bread should be greased very lightly; for graham or rye, much +more, as the dough sticks and clings. + +Instead of mixing a sponge, all the flour may be molded in and kneaded at +once, and the dough set to rise in the same way. When light, turn out. Use +as little flour as possible, and knead for fifteen minutes; less time +being required, as part of the kneading has already been done. + + +GRAHAM BREAD. + +One quart of wheat sponge; one even quart of graham flour; half a +teacupful of brown sugar or molasses; half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved +in a little hot water; and half a teaspoonful of salt. + +Pour the sponge in a deep bowl; stir in the molasses, &c, and lastly the +flour, which must never be sifted. The mixture should be so stiff, that +the spoon moves with difficulty. Bake in two loaves for an hour or an hour +and a quarter, graham requiring longer baking than wheat. + +If no sponge can be spared, make as follows: One pint of milk or water; +half a cup of sugar or molasses; half a cup of yeast; one teaspoonful of +salt; one cup of wheat flour; two cups of graham. Warm the milk or water; +add the yeast and other ingredients, and then the flour; and set in a cool +place--about 60 deg. Fahrenheit--over-night, graham bread souring more easily +than wheat. Early in the morning stir well; put into two deep, +well-greased pans; let it rise an hour in a warm place, and bake one +hour. + + +GRAHAM MUFFINS. + +These are made by the same rule as the bread. Fill the muffin-pans +two-thirds full; let them rise till even with the top of the pans, which +will take about an hour; and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. To make +them a little nicer, a large spoonful of melted butter may be added, and +two beaten eggs. This will require longer to rise, as butter clogs the +air-cells, and makes the working of the yeast slower. The quantities given +for bread will make two dozen muffins. + + +RYE BREAD. + +This bread is made by nearly the same rule as the graham, either using +wheat sponge, or setting one over-night, but is kneaded slightly. Follow +the rule just given, substituting rye for graham, but use enough rye to +make a dough which can be turned out. It will take a quart. Use wheat +flour for the molding-board and hands, as rye is very sticky; and knead +only long enough to get into good shape. Raise, and bake as in rule for +graham bread. + + +RYE MUFFINS. + +Make by above rule, but use only one pint of rye flour, adding two eggs +and a spoonful of melted butter, and baking in the same way. A set of +earthen cups are excellent for both these and graham muffins, as the heat +in baking is more even. They are used also for pop-overs, Sunderland +puddings, and some small cakes. + + +BROWN BREAD. + +Sift together into a deep bowl one even cup of Indian meal, two heaping +cups of rye flour, one even teaspoonful of salt, and one of soda. To one +pint of hot water add one cup of molasses, and stir till well mixed. Make +a hole in the middle of the meal, and stir in the molasses and water, +beating all till smooth. Butter a tin pudding-boiler, or a three-pint tin +pail, and put in the mixture, setting the boiler into a kettle or saucepan +of boiling water. Boil steadily for four hours, keeping the water always +at the same level. At the end of that time, take out the boiler, and set +in the oven for fifteen minutes to dry and form a crust. Turn out, and +serve hot. + +Milk may be used instead of water, or the same mixture raised over-night +with half a cup of yeast, and then steamed. + + +PLAIN ROLLS. + +A pint-bowlful of bread dough will make twelve small rolls. Increase +amount of dough if more are desired. Flour the molding-board lightly, and +work into the dough a piece of butter or lard the size of an egg. Knead +not less than fifteen minutes, and cut into round cakes, which may be +flattened and folded over, if folded or pocket rolls are wanted. In this +case put a bit of butter or lard the size of a pea between the folds. For +a cleft or French roll make the dough into small round balls, and press a +knife-handle almost through the center of each. Put them about an inch +apart in well-buttered pans, and let them rise an hour and a half before +baking. They require more time to rise than large loaves, as, being small, +heat penetrates them almost at once, and thus there is very little rising +in the oven. + +Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. + + +PARKER-HOUSE ROLLS. + +Two quarts of flour; one pint of milk; butter the size of an egg; one +tablespoonful of sugar; one teacupful of good yeast; one teaspoonful of +salt. + +Boil the milk, and add the butter, salt, and sugar. Sift the flour into a +deep bowl, and, when the milk is merely blood-warm, stir together with +enough of the flour to form a batter or sponge. Do this at nine or ten in +the evening, and set in a cool place, from 50 deg. to 60 deg.. Next morning about +nine mix in the remainder of the flour; turn on to the molding-board; and +knead for twenty minutes, using as little flour as possible. Return to the +bowl, and set in cool place again till about four in the afternoon. Knead +again for fifteen minutes; roll out, and cut into rounds, treating them as +in plain rolls. Let them rise one hour, and bake twenty minutes. One +kneading makes a good breakfast roll; but, to secure the peculiar delicacy +of a "Parker-House," two are essential, and they are generally baked as a +folded or pocket roll. If baked round, make the dough into a long roll on +the board; cut off small pieces, and make into round balls with the hand, +setting them well apart in the pan. + + +SODA AND CREAM OF TARTAR BISCUIT. + +One quart of flour; one even teaspoonful of salt; one teaspoonful of soda, +and two of cream of tartar; a piece of lard or butter the size of an egg; +and a large cup of milk or water. + +Mix the soda, cream of tartar, and salt with the flour, having first +mashed them fine, and sift all together twice. Rub the shortening in with +the hands till perfectly fine. Add the milk; mix and roll out as quickly +as possible; cut in rounds, and bake in a quick oven. If properly made, +they are light as puffs; but their success depends upon thorough and rapid +mixing and baking. + + +BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT. + +Make as above, using two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, instead of +the soda and cream of tartar. + + +BEATEN BISCUIT. + +Three pints of sifted flour; one cup of lard; one teaspoonful of salt. Rub +the lard and flour well together, and make into a very stiff dough with +about a cup of milk or water: a little more may be necessary. Beat the +dough with a rolling-pin for half an hour, or run through the little +machine that comes for the purpose. Make into small biscuit, prick several +times, and bake till brown. + + +WAFERS. + +One pint of sifted flour; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; half a +teaspoonful of salt. + +Rub butter and flour together, and make into dough with half a cup of warm +milk. Beat half an hour with the rolling-pin. Then take a bit of it no +larger than a nut, and roll to the size of a saucer. They can not be too +thin. Flour the pans lightly, and bake in a quick oven from five to ten +minutes. + + +WAFFLES. + +One pint of flour; one teaspoonful of baking powder; half a teaspoonful of +salt; three eggs; butter the size of an egg; and one and a quarter cups of +milk. + +Sift salt and baking powder with the flour; rub in the butter. Mix and +add the beaten yolks and milk, and last stir in the whites which have been +beaten to a stiff froth. Bake at once in well-greased waffle-irons. By +using two cups of milk, the mixture is right for pancakes. If sour milk is +used, substitute soda for the baking powder. Sour cream makes delicious +waffles. + + +RICE OR HOMINY WAFFLES. + +One pint of warm boiled rice or hominy; one cup of sweet or sour milk; +butter the size of a walnut; three eggs; one teaspoonful of salt and one +of soda sifted with one pint of flour. + +Stir rice and milk together; add the beaten yolks; then the flour, and +last the whites beaten stiff. By adding a small cup more of milk, rice +pancakes can be made. Boiled oatmeal or wheaten grits may be substituted +for the rice. + + +BREAKFAST PUFFS OR POP-OVERS. + +One pint of flour, one pint of milk, and one egg. Stir the milk into the +flour; beat the egg very light, and add it, stirring it well in. Meantime +have a set of gem-pans well buttered, heating in the oven. Put in the +dough (the material is enough for a dozen puffs), and bake for half an +hour in a _very hot oven_. This is one of the simplest but most delicate +breakfast cakes made. Ignorant cooks generally spoil several batches by +persisting in putting in baking powder or soda, as they can not believe +that the puffs will rise without. + + +SHORT-CAKE. + +One quart of flour; one teaspoonful of salt and two of baking powder +sifted with the flour; one cup of butter, or half lard and half butter; +one large cup of hot milk. Rub the butter into the flour. Add the milk, +and roll out the dough, cutting in small square cakes and baking to a +light brown. + +For a strawberry or peach short-cake have three tin pie-plates buttered; +roll the dough to fit them, and bake quickly. Fill either, when done, with +a quart of strawberries or raspberries mashed with a cup of sugar, or with +peaches cut fine and sugared, and served hot. + + +CORN BREAD. + +Two cups of corn meal; one cup of flour; one teaspoonful of soda and one +of salt; one heaping tablespoonful of butter; a teacup full of sugar; +three eggs; two cups of sour milk, the more creamy the better. If sweet +milk is used, substitute baking powder for soda. + +Sift meal, flour, soda, and salt together; beat the yolks of the eggs with +the sugar; add the milk, and stir into the meal; melt the butter, and stir +in, beating hard for five minutes. Beat the whites stiff, and stir in, and +bake at once either in one large, round loaf, or in tin pie-plates. The +loaf will need half an hour or a little more; the pie-plates, not over +twenty minutes. + +This can be baked as muffins, or, by adding another cup of milk, becomes a +pancake mixture. + + +HOE-CAKE. + +One quart of corn meal; one teaspoon full of salt; one tablespoonful of +melted lard; one large cup of boiling water. Melt the lard in the water. +Mix the salt with the meal, and pour on the water, stirring it into a +dough. When cool, make either into one large oval cake or two smaller +ones, and bake in the oven to a bright brown, which will take about half +an hour; or make in small cakes, and bake slowly on a griddle, browning +well on each side. Genuine hoe-cake is baked before an open fire on a +board. + + +BUCKWHEAT CAKES. + +Two cups of buckwheat flour; one of wheat flour; one of corn meal; half a +cup of yeast; one teaspoonful of salt; one quart of boiling water. Mix the +corn meal and salt, and pour on the boiling water very slowly, that the +meal may swell. As soon as merely warm, stir in the sifted flour and +yeast. All buckwheat may be used, instead of part wheat flour. Beat well, +cover, and put in a cool place,--about 60 deg.. In the morning stir well, and +add half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm water. Grease +the griddle with a bit of salt pork on a fork, or a _very little_ +drippings rubbed over it evenly, but never have it floating with fat, as +many cooks do. Drop in large spoonfuls, and bake and serve _few at a +time_, or they will become heavy and unfit to eat. If a cupful of the +batter is saved, no yeast need be used for the next baking, and in cold +weather this can be done for a month. + + +HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. + +One quart of flour; one teaspoonful of salt and two of baking powder +sifted with the flour; one pint of huckleberries; half a cup of butter; +two eggs; two cups of sweet milk; two cups of sugar. + +Cream the butter, and add the sugar and yolks of eggs; stir in the milk, +and add the flour slowly; then beating the whites of the eggs stiff, and +adding them. Have the huckleberries picked over, washed, dried, and well +dusted with flour. Stir them in last of all; fill the pans three-quarters +full, and bake in a moderate oven for about half an hour. + + +APPLE CAKE. + +Make as above; but, instead of huckleberries, use one pint of sour, tender +apples, cut in thin slices. It is a delicious breakfast or tea cake. + + +BROWN-BREAD BREWIS. + +Dry all bits of crust or bread in the oven, browning them nicely. To a +pint of these, allow one quart of milk, half a cup of butter, and a +teaspoonful of salt. Boil the milk; add the butter and salt, and then the +browned bread, and simmer slowly for fifteen minutes, or until perfectly +soft. It is very nice. Bits of white bread or sea biscuit can be used in +the same way. + + +CRISPED CRACKERS. + +Split large soft crackers, what is called the "Boston cracker" being best; +butter them well as for eating; lay the buttered halves in baking-pans, +and brown in a quick oven. Good at any meal. + + +SOUR BREAD. + +If, by any mishap, bread has soured a little, make into water toast or +brewis, adding a teaspoonful of soda to the water or milk. + + +TO USE DRY BREAD. + +Brown in the oven every scrap that is left, seeing that it does not +scorch. Roll while hot and crisp, and sift, using the fine crumbs for +croquettes, &c., and the coarser ones for puddings and pancakes. Keep dry +in glass jars; or tin cans will answer. + + +BREAD PANCAKES. + +One cup of coarse crumbs, soaked over-night in a quart of warm milk, or +milk and water. In the morning mash fine, and run through a sieve. Add +three eggs well beaten, half a cup of flour, a large spoonful of sugar, a +teaspoonful of salt, and, if liked, a little nutmeg. If the bread was in +the least sour, add a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little warm +water. Bake like pancakes, but more slowly. + + +TO FRESHEN STALE BREAD OR ROLLS. + +Wrap in a cloth, and steam for ten or fifteen minutes in a steamer. Then +dry in the oven. Rolls or biscuits may have the top crust wet with a +little melted butter, and then brown a minute after steaming. + + + * * * * * + +CAKE. + + +CAKE-MAKING. + +In all cake-making, see that every thing is ready to your hand,--pans +buttered, or papered if necessary; flour sifted; all spices and other +materials on your working-table; and the fire in good order. + +No matter how plain the cake, there is a certain order in mixing, which, +if followed, produces the best result from the materials used; and this +order is easily reduced to rules. + +First, always cream the butter; that is, stir it till light and creamy. If +very cold, heat the bowl a little, but never enough to melt, only to +soften the butter. Second, add the sugar to the butter, and mix +thoroughly. + +Third, if eggs are used, beat yolks and whites separately for a delicate +cake; add yolks to sugar and butter, and beat together a minute. For a +plain cake, beat yolks and whites together (a Dover egg-beater doing this +better than any thing else can), and add to butter and sugar. + +Fourth, if milk is used, add this. + +Fifth, stir in the measure of flour little by little, and beat smooth. + +Flavoring may be added at any time. If dry spices are used, mix them with +the sugar. Always sift baking powder with the flour. If soda and cream of +tartar are used, sift the cream of tartar with the flour, and dissolve the +soda in a little milk or warm water. For very delicate cakes, powdered +sugar is best. For gingerbreads and small cakes or cookies, light brown +answers. + +Where fruit cake is to be made, raisins should be stoned and chopped, and +currants washed and dried, the day beforehand. A cup of currants being a +nice and inexpensive addition to buns or any plain cake, it is well to +prepare several pounds at once, drying thoroughly, and keeping in glass +jars. Being the very dirtiest article known to the storeroom, currants +require at least three washings in warm water, rubbing them well in the +hands. Then spread them out on a towel, and proceed to pick out all the +sticks, grit, small stones, and legs and wings to be found; then put the +fruit into a slow oven, and dry it carefully, that none may scorch. + +In baking, a moderate oven is one in which a teaspoonful of flour will +brown while you count thirty; a quick one, where but twelve can be +counted. + +The "cup" used in all these receipts is the ordinary kitchen cup, holding +half a pint. The measures of flour are, in all cases, of _sifted flour_, +which can be sifted by the quantity, and kept in a wooden pail. "Prepared +flour" is especially nice for doughnuts and plain cakes. No great variety +of receipts is given, as every family is sure to have one enthusiastic +cake-maker who gleans from all sources; and this book aims to give fuller +space to substantials than to sweets. Half the energy spent by many +housekeepers upon cake would insure the perfect bread, which, nine times +out of ten, is not found upon their tables, and success in which they +count an impossibility. If cake is to be made, however, let it be done in +the most perfect way; seeing only that bread is first irreproachable. + + +SPONGE CAKE. + +One pound of the finest granulated, or of powdered, sugar; half a pound of +sifted flour; ten eggs; grated rind of two lemons, and the juice of one; +and a saltspoonful of salt. + +Break the eggs, yolks and whites separately, and beat the yolks to a +creamy froth. Beat the whites till they can be turned upside down without +spilling. Put yolks and whites together, and beat till blended; then add +the sugar slowly; then the lemon rind and juice and the salt, and last the +flour. Whisk together as lightly and quickly as possible. Turn into either +three buttered bread-pans of the size given on p. 201, or bake in a large +loaf, as preferred. Fill the pans two-thirds full, and, when in the oven, +do not open it for ten minutes. Bake about half an hour, and test by +running a clean broom-straw into the loaf. If it comes out dry, they are +done. Turn out, and cool on a sieve, or on the pans turned upside down. + + +ROLLED JELLY CAKE. + +Three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; one heaped cup of sugar; +one scant cup of flour in which a teaspoonful of baking powder and a pinch +of salt have been sifted; quarter of a cup of boiling water. + +Mix as in sponge cake; add the water last, and bake in a large +roasting-pan, spreading the batter as thinly as possible. It will bake in +ten minutes. When done, and while still hot, spread with any acid jelly, +and roll carefully from one side. This cake is nice for lining +Charlotte-Russe molds also. For that purpose the water may be omitted, its +only use being to make the cake roll more easily. + + +CUP CAKE. + +One cup of butter; two cups of sugar; four eggs, yolks and whites beaten +separately; one cup of milk; three and a half cups of flour; a grated +nutmeg, or a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon; and a heaping teaspoonful of +baking powder. + +Cream the butter; add the sugar, and then the yolks; then the milk and the +whites, and last the flour, in which the baking powder has been sifted. +Bake half an hour, either in two brick loaves or one large one. It is +nice, also, baked in little tins. Half may be flavored with essence, and +the other half with a teaspoonful of mixed spice,--half cinnamon, and the +rest mace and allspice. By using a heaping tablespoonful of yellow ginger, +this becomes a delicious sugar gingerbread, or, with mixed spices and +ginger, a spice gingerbread. + +This cake with the variations upon it makes up page after page in the +large cook-books. Use but half a cup of butter, and you have a plain _Cup +Cake_. Add a cup of currants and one of chopped raisins, and it is plain +_Fruit Cake_, needing to bake one hour. Bake on Washington-pie tins, and +you have the foundation for _Cream_ and _Jelly Cakes_. A little +experience, and then invention, will show you how varied are the +combinations, and how one page in your cook-book can do duty for twenty. + + +POUND CAKE. + +One pound of sugar; one pound of flour; three-quarters of a pound of +butter; nine eggs; one teaspoonful of baking powder, and one of lemon +extract; one nutmeg grated. + +Cream the butter, and add half the flour, sifting the baking powder with +the other half. Beat the yolks to a creamy foam, and add; and then the +sugar, beating hard. Have the whites a stiff froth, and stir in, adding +flavoring and remainder of flour. Bake in one large loaf for one hour, +letting the oven be moderate. Frost, if liked. + + +FRUIT CAKE. + +One pound of butter; one pound of sugar; one pound and a quarter of sifted +flour; ten eggs; two nutmegs grated; a tablespoonful each of ground +cloves, cinnamon, and allspice; a teaspoonful of soda; a cup of brandy or +wine, and one of dark molasses; one pound of citron; two pounds of stoned +and chopped raisins, and two of currants washed and dried. + +Dredge the prepared fruit with enough of the flour to coat it thoroughly. +To have the cake very dark and rich looking, brown the flour a little, +taking great care not to scorch it. Cream the butter, and add the sugar, +in which the spices have been mixed; then the beaten yolks of eggs; then +the whites beaten to a stiff froth, and the flour. Dissolve the soda in a +very little warm water, and add. Now stir in the fruit. Have either one +large, round pan, or two smaller ones. Put at least three thicknesses of +buttered letter-paper on the sides and bottom; turn in the mixture, and +bake for three hours in a moderate oven. Cover with thick paper if there +is the least danger of scorching. This will keep, if well frosted, for two +years. + + +DOVER CAKE. + +One pound of flour; one pound of sugar; half a pound of butter; one teacup +of milk; six eggs; one teaspoonful of baking powder; one grated nutmeg. + +Cream the butter; add first sugar, then beaten yolks of eggs and milk, +then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and last the flour. Bake +forty-five minutes in a large dripping-pan, sifting fine sugar over the +top, and cut in small squares; or it may be baked in one round loaf, and +frosted on the bottom, or in small tins. Half a pound of citron cut fine +is often added. + + +WHITE OR SILVER CAKE. + +Half a cup of butter; a heaping cupful of powdered sugar; two cups of +flour, with a teaspoonful of baking powder sifted in; half a cup of milk; +whites of six eggs; one teaspoonful of almond extract. + +Cream the butter, and add the flour, beating till it is a smooth paste. +Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add the sugar and essence. Now mix +both quickly, and bake in a sheet about an inch and a half thick. About +half an hour will be needed. Frost while hot, with one white of egg, +beaten ten minutes with a small cup of sifted powdered sugar, and juice +of half a lemon. This frosting hardens very quickly. Before it is quite +hard, divide it into oblong or square pieces, scoring at intervals with +the back of a large knife. The milk can be omitted if a richer cake is +wanted. It may also be baked in jelly-cake tins; one small cocoanut +grated, and mixed with one cup of sugar, and spread between, and the whole +frosted. Or beat the white of an egg with one cup of sugar, and the juice +of one large or two small oranges, and spread between. Either form is +delicious. + + +GOLD CAKE. + +One cup of sugar; half a cup of butter; two cups of flour; yolks of six +eggs; grated rind and juice of a lemon or orange; half a teaspoonful of +soda, mixed with the flour, and sifted twice. + +Cream the butter; add the sugar, then the beaten yolks and the flour, +beating hard for several minutes. Last, add the lemon or orange juice, and +bake like silver cake; frosting, if liked. If frosting is made for either +or both cakes, the extra yolks may be used in making this one, eight being +still nicer than six. + + +BREAD CAKE. + +Two cups or a pint-bowlful of raised dough ready for baking; one cup of +butter; two cups of sugar; one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, or half a +nutmeg grated; three eggs; one teaspoonful of soda in quarter of a cup of +warm water, and half a cup of flour. + +Cream the butter, and add the sugar. Then put in the bread dough, and work +together till well mixed. The hand is best for this, though it can be done +with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs, then the flour, and last the soda. Let +it stand in a warm place for one hour, and bake in a moderate oven +forty-five minutes, testing with a broom-straw. A pound of stoned and +chopped raisins is a nice addition. Omitting them, and adding flour enough +to roll out, makes an excellent raised doughnut or bun. Let it rise two +hours; then cut in shapes, and fry in boiling lard. Or, for buns, bake in +a quick oven, and, a minute before taking out, brush the top with a +spoonful of sugar and milk mixed together. + + +PLAIN BUNS. + +One pint-bowlful of dough; one cup of sugar; butter the size of an egg; +one teaspoonful of cinnamon. + +Boll the dough thin. Spread the butter upon it. Mix sugar and cinnamon +together, and sprinkle on it. Now turn over the edges of the dough +carefully to keep the sugar in, and press and work gently for a few +minutes, that it may not break through. Knead till thoroughly mixed. Roll +out; cut like biscuit, and let them rise an hour, baking in a quick oven. + +The same rule can be used for raised doughnuts. + + +DOUGHNUTS. + +First put on the lard, and let it be heating gradually. To test it when +hot, drop in a bit of bread; if it browns as you count twenty, it is +right. Never let it boil furiously, or scorch. This is the rule for all +frying, whether fritters, croquettes, or cakes. + +One quart of flour into which has been sifted a teaspoonful of salt, and +one of soda if sour milk is used, or two of baking powder if sweet milk. +If cream can be had, use part cream, allowing one large cup of milk, or +cream and milk. One heaping cup of fine brown sugar; one teaspoonful of +ground cinnamon, and half a one of mace or nutmeg; use one spoonful of +butter, if you have no cream, stirring it into the sugar. Add two or three +beaten eggs; mixing all as in general directions for cake. They can be +made without eggs. Roll out; cut in shapes, and fry brown, taking them out +with a fork into a sieve set over a pan that all fat may drain off. + +Cut thin, and baked brown in a quick oven, these make a good plain cooky. + + +GINGER SNAPS. + +One cup of butter and lard or dripping mixed, or dripping alone can be +used; one cup of molasses; one cup of brown sugar; two teaspoonfuls of +ginger, and one each of clove, allspice, and mace; one teaspoonful of +salt, and one of soda dissolved in half a cup of hot water; one egg. + +Stir together the shortening, sugar, molasses, and spice. Add the soda, +and then sifted flour enough to make a dough,--about three pints. Turn on +to the board, and knead well. Take about quarter of it, and roll out thin +as a knife-blade. Bake in a quick oven. They will bake in five minutes, +and will keep for months. By using only four cups of flour, this can be +baked in a loaf as spiced gingerbread; or it can be rolled half an inch +thick, and baked as a cooky. In this, as in all cakes, experience will +teach you many variations. + + +PLAIN GINGERBREAD. + +Two cups of molasses; one of sour milk; half a cup of lard or drippings; +four cups of flour; two teaspoonfuls of ginger, and one of cinnamon; half +a teaspoonful of salt; one egg, and a teaspoonful of soda. + +Mix molasses and shortening; add the spice and egg, then the milk, and +last the flour, with soda sifted in it. Bake at once in a sheet about an +inch thick for half an hour. Try with a broom-straw. Good hot for lunch +with chocolate. A plain cooky is made by adding flour enough to roll out. +The egg may be omitted. + + +JUMBLES. + +The richest jumbles are made from either the rule for Pound or Dover Cake, +with flour enough added to roll out. The Cup-Cake rule makes good but +plainer ones. Make rings, either by cutting in long strips and joining the +ends, or by using a large and small cutter. Sift sugar over the top, and +bake a delicate brown. By adding a large spoonful of yellow ginger, any of +these rules become hard sugar-gingerbread, and all will keep for a long +time. + + +DROP CAKES. + +Any of the rules last mentioned become drop cakes by buttering muffin-tins +or tin sheets, and dropping a teaspoonful of these mixtures into them. If +on sheets, let them be two inches apart. Sift sugar over the top, and bake +in a quick oven. They are done as soon as brown. + + +CREAM CAKES. + +One pint of boiling water in a saucepan. Melt in it a piece of butter the +size of an egg. Add half a teaspoonful of salt. While still boiling, stir +in one large cup of flour, and cook for three minutes. Take from the fire; +cool ten minutes; then break in, one by one, six eggs, and beat till +smooth. Have muffin-pans buttered, or large baking-sheets. Drop a spoonful +of the mixture on them, allowing room to spread, and bake half an hour in +a quick oven. Cool on a sieve, and, when cool, fill with a cream made as +below. + +FILLING FOR CREAM CAKES. + +One pint of milk, one cup of sugar, two eggs, half a cup of flour, and a +piece of butter the size of a walnut. + +Mix the sugar and flour, add the beaten eggs, and beat all till smooth. +Stir into the boiling milk with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil for +fifteen minutes. When cold, add a teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon. Make a +slit in each cake, and fill with the cream. Corn-starch may be used +instead of flour. This makes a very nice filling for plain cup cake baked +on jelly-cake tins. + + +MERINGUES, OR KISSES. + +Whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth; quarter of a pound of sifted +powdered sugar; a few drops of vanilla. + +Add the sugar to the whites. Have ready a hard-wood board which fits the +oven. Wet the top well with boiling water, and cover it with sheets of +letter-paper. Drop the meringue mixture on this in large spoonfuls, and +set in a _very slow_ oven. The secret of a good meringue is to _dry_, not +bake; and they should be in the oven at least half an hour. Take them out +when dry. Slip a thin, sharp knife under each one, and put two together; +or scoop out the soft part very carefully, and fill with a little jelly or +with whipped cream. + + + + +PASTRY AND PIES. + + +In the first place, don't make either, except very semi-occasionally. +Pastry, even when good, is so indigestible that children should never have +it, and their elders but seldom. A nice short-cake made as on p. 209, and +filled with stewed fruit, or with fresh berries mashed and sweetened, is +quite as agreeable to eat, and far more wholesome. But, as people _will_ +both make and eat pie-crust, the best rules known are given. + +Butter, being more wholesome than lard, should always be used if it can be +afforded. A mixture of lard and butter is next best. Clarified dripping +makes a good crust for meat pies, and cream can also be used. For +dumplings nothing can be better than a light biscuit-crust, made as on p. +208. It is also good for meat pies. + + +PLAIN PIE-CRUST. + +One quart of flour; one even teacup of lard, and one of butter; one teacup +of ice-water or very cold water; and a teaspooonful of salt. + +Rub the lard and salt into the flour till it is dry and crumbly. Add the +ice-water, and work to a smooth dough. Wash the butter, and have it cold +and firm as possible. Divide it in three parts. Roll out the paste, and +dot it all over with bits from one part of the butter. Sprinkle with +flour, and roll up. Roll out, and repeat till the butter is gone. If the +crust can now stand on the ice for half an hour, it will be nicer and more +flaky. This amount will make three good-sized pies. Enough for the bottom +crusts can be taken off after one rolling in of butter, thus making the +top crust richer. Lard alone will make a tender, but not a flaky, paste. + + +PUFF PASTE. + +One pound of flour; three-quarters of a pound of butter; one teacupful of +ice-water; one teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar; yolk of one egg. + +Wash the butter; divide into three parts, reserving a bit the size of an +egg; and put it on the ice for an hour. Rub the bit of butter, the salt, +and sugar, into the flour, and stir in the ice-water and egg beaten +together. Make into a dough, and knead on the molding-board till glossy +and firm: at least ten minutes will be required. Roll out into a sheet ten +or twelve inches square. Cut a cake of the ice-cold butter in thin slices, +or flatten it very thin with the rolling-pin. Lay it on the paste, +sprinkle with flour, and fold over the edges. Press it in somewhat with +the rolling-pin, and roll out again. Always roll _from_ you. Do this again +and again till the butter is all used, rolling up the paste after the last +cake is in, and then putting it on the ice for an hour or more. Have +filling all ready, and let the paste be as nearly ice-cold as possible +when it goes into the oven. There are much more elaborate rules; but this +insures handsome paste. Make a plainer one for the bottom crusts. Cover +puff paste with a damp cloth, and it may be kept on the ice a day or two +before baking. + + +PATTIES FROM PUFF PASTE. + +Roll the paste about a third of an inch thick, and cut out with a round or +oval cutter about two inches in diameter. Take a cutter half an inch +smaller, and press it into the piece already cut out, so as to sink +half-way through the crust: this to mark out the top piece. Lay on tins, +and bake to a delicate brown. They should treble in thickness by rising, +and require from twenty minutes to half an hour to bake. When done, the +marked-out top can easily be removed. Take out the soft inside, and fill +with sweetmeats for dessert, or with minced chicken or oysters prepared as +on p. 140. + + +GRANDMOTHER'S APPLE PIE. + +Line a deep pie-plate with plain paste. Pare sour apples,--greenings are +best; quarter, and cut in thin slices. Allow one cup of sugar, and quarter +of a grated nutmeg mixed with it. Fill the pie-plate heaping full of the +sliced apple, sprinkling the sugar between the layers. It will require not +less than six good-sized apples. Wet the edges of the pie with cold water; +lay on the cover, and press down securely, that no juice may escape. Bake +three-quarters of an hour, or a little less if the apples are very tender. +No pie in which the apples are stewed beforehand can compare with this in +flavor. If they are used, stew till tender, and strain. Sweeten and flavor +to taste. Fill the pies, and bake half an hour. + + +DRIED-APPLE PIES. + +Wash one pint of dried apples, and put in a porcelain kettle with two +quarts of warm water. Let them stand all night. In the morning put on the +fire, and stew slowly for an hour. Then add one pint of sugar, a +teaspoonful of dried lemon or orange rind, or half a fresh lemon sliced, +and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon. Stew half an hour longer, and then use +for filling the pies. The apple can be strained if preferred, and a +teaspoonful of butter added. This quantity will make two pies. Dried +peaches are treated in the same way. + + +LEMON PIES. + +Three lemons, juice of all and the grated rind of two; two cups of sugar; +three cups of boiling water; three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved +in a little cold water; three eggs; a piece of butter the size of an egg. + +Pour the boiling water on the dissolved corn-starch, and boil for five +minutes. Add the sugar and butter, the yolks of the eggs beaten to a +froth, and last the lemon juice and rind. Line the plates with crust, +putting a narrow rim of it around each one. Pour in the filling, and bake +half an hour. Beat the whites to a stiff froth; add half a teacup of +powdered sugar and ten drops of lemon extract, and, when the pie is baked, +spread this on. The heat will cook it sufficiently, but it can be browned +a moment in the oven. If to be kept a day, do not make the frosting till +just before using. The whites will keep in a cold place. Orange pie can be +made in the same way. + + +SWEET-POTATO PIE OR PUDDING. + +One pound of hot, boiled sweet potato rubbed through a sieve; one cup of +butter; one heaping cup of sugar; half a grated nutmeg; one glass of +brandy; a pinch of salt; six eggs. + +Add the sugar, spice, and butter to the hot potato. Beat whites and yolks +separately, and add, and last the brandy. Line deep plates with nice +paste, making a rim of puff paste. Fill with the mixture, and bake till +the crust is done,--about half an hour. Wickedly rich, but very +delicious. Irish potatoes can be treated in the same way, and are more +delicate. + + +SQUASH OR PUMPKIN PIE. + +Prepare and steam as in directions on p. 194. Strain through a sieve. To a +quart of the strained squash add one quart of new milk, with a spoonful or +two of cream if possible; one heaping cup of sugar into which has been +stirred a teaspoonful of salt, a heaping one of ginger, and half a one of +cinnamon. Mix this with the squash, and add from two to four well-beaten +eggs. Bake in deep plates lined with plain pie-crust. They are done when a +knife-blade on being run into the middle comes out clean. About forty +minutes will be enough. For pumpkin pie half a cup of molasses may be +added, and the eggs can be omitted, substituting half a cup of flour mixed +with the sugar and spice before stirring in. A teaspoonful of butter can +also be added. + + +CHERRY AND BERRY PIES. + +Have a very deep plate, and either no under crust save a rim, or a very +thin one. Allow a cup of sugar to a quart of fruit, but no spices. Stone +cherries. Prick the upper crust half a dozen times with a fork to let out +the steam. + +For rhubarb or pie-plant pies, peel the stalks; cut them in little bits, +and fill the pie. Bake with an upper crust. + + +CUSTARD PIE. + +Line and rim deep plates with pastry, a thin custard pie being very poor. +Beat together a teacupful of sugar, four eggs, and a pinch of salt, and +mix slowly with one quart of milk. Fill the plate up to the pastry rim +_after it is in the oven_, and bake till the custard is firm, trying, as +for squash pies, with a knife-blade. + + +MINCE-MEAT FOR PIES. + +Two pounds of cold roast or boiled beef, or a small beef-tongue, boiled +the day beforehand, cooled and chopped; one pound of beef-suet, freed from +all strings, and chopped fine as powder; two pounds of raisins stoned and +chopped; one pound of currants washed and dried; six pounds of chopped +apples; half a pound of citron cut in slips; two pounds of brown sugar; +one pint of molasses; one quart of boiled cider; one pint of wine or +brandy, or a pint of any nice sirup from sweet pickles may be substituted; +two heaping tablespoonfuls of salt; one teaspoonful of pepper; three +tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon; two of allspice; one of clove; one of +mace; three grated nutmegs; grated rind and juice of three lemons; a +cupful of chopped, candied orange or lemon peel. + +Mix spices and salt with sugar, and stir into the meat and suet. Add the +apples, and then the cider and other wetting, stirring very thoroughly. +Lastly, mix in the fruit. Fill and bake as in apple pies. This mince-meat +will keep two months easily. If it ferments at all, put over the fire in a +porcelain-lined kettle, and boil half an hour. Taste, and judge for +yourselves whether more or less spice is needed. Butter can be used +instead of suet, and proportions varied to taste. + + +RAMMEKINS, OR CHEESE STRAWS. + +One pound of puff paste; one cup of good grated cheese. Roll the paste +half an inch thick; sprinkle on half the cheese; press in lightly with the +rolling-pin; roll up, and roll out again, using the other half of the +cheese. Fold, and roll about a third of an inch thick. Cut in long, narrow +strips, four or five inches long and half an inch wide, and bake in a +quick oven to a delicate brown. Excellent with chocolate at lunch, or for +dessert with fruit. + + * * * * * + +PUDDINGS BOILED AND BAKED. + +For boiled puddings a regular pudding-boiler holding from three pints to +two quarts is best, a tin pail with a very tight-fitting cover answering +instead, though not as good. For large dumplings a thick +pudding-cloth--the best being of Canton flannel, used with the nap-side +out--should be dipped in hot water, and wrung out, dredged evenly and +thickly with flour, and laid over a large bowl. From half to +three-quarters of a yard square is a good size. In filling this, pile the +fruit or berries on the rolled-out crust which has been laid in the middle +of the cloth, and gather the edges of the paste evenly over it. Then +gather the cloth up, leaving room for the dumpling to swell, and tying +very tightly. In turning out, lift to a dish; press all the water from the +ends of the cloth; untie and turn away from the pudding, and lay a hot +dish upon it, turning over the pudding into it, and serving at once, as it +darkens or falls by standing. + +In using a boiler, butter well, and fill only two-thirds full that the +mixture may have room to swell. Set it in boiling water, and see that it +is kept at the same height, about an inch from the top. Cover the outer +kettle that the steam may be kept in. Small dumplings, with a single apple +or peach in each, can be cooked in a steamer. Puddings are not only much +more wholesome, but less expensive than pies. + + +APPLE DUMPLING. + +Make a crust, as for biscuit, or a potato-crust as follows: Three large +potatoes, boiled and mashed while hot. Add to them two cups of sifted +flour and one teaspoonful of salt, and mix thoroughly. Now chop or cut +into it one small cup of butter, and mix into a paste with about a +teacupful of cold water. Dredge the board thick with flour, and roll +out,--thick in the middle, and thin at the edges. Fill, as directed, with +apples pared and quartered, eight or ten good-sized ones being enough for +this amount of crust. Boil for three hours. Turn out as directed, and eat +with butter and sirup or with a made sauce. Peaches pared and halved, or +canned ones drained from the sirup, can be used. In this case, prepare the +sirup for sauce, as on p. 172. Blueberries are excellent in the same way. + + +ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING, OR CHRISTMAS PUDDING. + +One pound of raisins stoned and cut in two; one pound of currants washed +and dried; one pound of beef-suet chopped very fine; one pound of +bread-crumbs; one pound of flour; half a pound of brown sugar; eight eggs; +one pint of sweet milk; one teaspoonful of salt; a tablespoonful of +cinnamon; two grated nutmegs; a glass each of wine and brandy. + +Prepare the fruit, and dredge thickly with flour. Soak the bread in the +milk; beat the eggs, and add. Stir in the rest of the flour, the suet, and +last the fruit. Boil six hours either in a cloth or large mold. Half the +amounts given makes a good-sized pudding; but, as it will keep three +months, it might be boiled in two molds. Serve with a rich sauce. + + +ANY-DAY PLUM PUDDING. + +One cup of sweet milk; one cup of molasses; one cup each of raisins and +currants; one cup of suet chopped fine, or, instead, a small cup of +butter; one teaspoonful of salt, and one of soda, sifted with three cups +of flour; one teaspoonful each of cinnamon and allspice. + +Mix milk, molasses, suet, and spice; add flour, and then the fruit. Put in +a buttered mold, and boil three hours. Eat with hard or liquid sauce. A +cupful each of prunes and dates or figs can be substituted for the fruit, +and is very nice; and the same amount of dried apple, measured after +soaking and chopping, is also good. Or the fruit can be omitted +altogether, in which case it becomes "Troy Pudding." + + +BATTER PUDDING, BOILED OR BAKED. + +Two cups of flour in which is sifted a heaping teaspoonful of baking +powder, two cups of sweet milk, four eggs, one teaspoonful of salt. Stir +the flour gradually into the milk, and beat hard for five minutes. Beat +yolks and whites separately, and then add to batter. Have the +pudding-boiler buttered. Pour in the batter, and boil steadily for two +hours. It may also be baked an hour in a buttered pudding-dish. Serve at +once, when done, with a liquid sauce. + + +SUNDERLAND PUDDINGS. + +Are merely puffs or pop-overs eaten with sauce. See p. 209. + + +BREAD PUDDING. + +One cup of dried and rolled bread-crumbs, or one pint of fresh ones; one +quart of milk; two eggs; one cup of sugar; half a teaspoonful of cinnamon; +a little grated nutmeg; a saltspoonful of salt. + +Soak the crumbs in the milk for an hour or two; mix the spice and salt +with the sugar, and beat the eggs with it, stirring them slowly into the +milk. Butter a pudding-dish; pour in the mixture; and bake half an hour, +or till done. Try with a knife-blade, as in general directions. The whites +may be kept out for a meringue, allowing half a teacup of powdered sugar +to them. By using fresh bread-crumbs and four eggs, this becomes what is +known as "Queen of Puddings." As soon as done, spread the top with half a +cup of any acid jelly, and cover with the whites which have been beaten +stiff, with a teacupful of sugar. Brown slightly in the oven. Half a pound +of raisins may be added. + + +BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING. + +Fill a pudding-dish two-thirds full with very thin slices of bread and +butter. A cupful of currants or dried cherries may be sprinkled between +the slices. Make a custard of two eggs beaten with a cup of sugar; add a +quart of milk, and pour over the bread. Cover with a plate, and set on the +back of the stove an hour; then bake from half to three-quarters of an +hour. Serve very hot, as it falls when cool. + + +BREAD-AND-APPLE PUDDING. + +Butter a deep pudding-dish, and put first a layer of crumbs, then one of +any good acid apple, sliced rather thin, and so on till the dish is nearly +full. Six or eight apples and a quart of fresh crumbs will fill a +two-quart dish. Dissolve a cup of sugar and one teaspoonful of cinnamon in +one pint of boiling water, and pour into the dish. Let the pudding stand +half an hour to swell; then bake till brown,--about three-quarters of an +hour,--and eat with liquid sauce. It can be made with slices of bread and +butter, instead of crumbs. + + +BIRD'S-NEST PUDDING. + +Wash one teacupful of tapioca, and put it in one quart of cold water to +soak for several hours. Pare and core as many good apples as will fit in a +two-quart buttered pudding-dish. When the tapioca is softened, add a +cupful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and +pour over the apples. Bake an hour, and eat with or without sauce. + + +TAPIOCA PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; one teacupful of tapioca; three eggs; a cup of sugar; a +teaspoonful of salt; a tablespoonful of butter; a teaspoonful of lemon +extract. + +Wash the tapioca, and soak in the milk for two hours, setting it on the +back of the stove to swell. Beat eggs and sugar together, reserving whites +for a meringue if liked; melt the butter, and add, and stir into the milk. +Bake half an hour. Sago pudding is made in the same way. + + +TAPIOCA CREAM. + +One teacupful of tapioca washed and soaked over-night in one pint of warm +water. Next morning add a quart of milk and a teaspoonful of salt, and +boil in a milk-boiler for two hours. Just before taking it from the fire, +add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and three eggs +beaten with a cup of sugar. The whites may be made in a meringue. Pour +into a glass dish which has had warm water standing in it, to prevent +cracking, and eat cold. Rice or sago cream is made in the same way. + + +PLAIN RICE PUDDING. + +One cup of rice; three pints of milk; one heaping cup of sugar; one +teaspoonful of salt. + +Wash the rice well. Butter a two-quart pudding-dish, and stir rice, sugar, +and salt together. Pour on the milk. Grate nutmeg over it, and bake for +three hours. Very good. + + +MINUTE PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; one pint of flour; two eggs; one teaspoonful of salt. + +Boil the milk in a double boiler. Beat the eggs, and add the flour slowly, +with enough of the milk to make it smooth. Stir into the boiling milk, and +cook it half an hour. Eat with liquid sauce or sirup. It is often made +without eggs. + + +CORN-STARCH PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; four tablespoonfuls of corn-starch; one cup of sugar; +three eggs; a teaspoonful each of salt and vanilla. + +Boil the milk; dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold milk, and add. +Cook five minutes, and add the eggs and flavoring beaten with the sugar. +Turn into a buttered dish, and bake fifteen minutes, covering then with a +meringue made of the whites, or cool in molds, in this case using only the +whites of the eggs. The yolks can be made in a custard to pour around +them. A cup of grated cocoanut can be added, or two teaspoonfuls of +chocolate stirred smooth in a little boiling water. + + +GELATINE PUDDING. + +Four eggs; one pint of milk; one cup of sugar; a saltspoonful of salt; a +teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla; a third of a box of gelatine. + +Soak the gelatine a few minutes in a little cold water, and then dissolve +it in three-quarters of a cup of boiling water. Have ready a custard made +from the milk and yolks of the eggs. Beat the yolks and sugar together, +and stir into the boiling milk. When cold, add the gelatine water and the +whites of the eggs beaten very stiff. Pour into molds. It is both pretty +and good. + + +CABINET PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; half a package of gelatine; a teaspoonful each of salt +and vanilla; a cup of sugar. + +Boil the milk; soak the gelatine fifteen minutes in a little cold water; +dissolve in the boiling milk, and add the sugar and salt. Now butter a +Charlotte-Russe mold thickly. Cut slips of citron into leaves or pretty +shapes, and stick on the mold. Fill it lightly with any light cake, either +plain or rich. Strain on the gelatine and milk, and set in a cold place. +Turn out before serving. Delicate crackers may be used instead of cake. + + +CORN-MEAL OR INDIAN PUDDING. + +One quart of milk; one cup of sifted corn meal; one cup of molasses (not +"sirup"); one teaspoonful of salt. + +Stir meal, salt, and molasses together. Boil the milk, and add slowly. +Butter a pudding-dish, and pour in the mixture; adding, after it is set in +the oven, one cup of cold milk poured over the top. Bake three hours in a +moderate oven. + + * * * * * + +CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, ETC. + + +BAKED CUSTARD. + +One quart of milk; four eggs; one teacup of sugar; half a teaspoonful of +salt; nutmeg. + +Boil the milk. Beat the eggs very light, and add the sugar and salt. Pour +on the milk very slowly, stirring constantly. Bake in a pudding-dish or in +cups. If in cups, set them in a baking-pan, and half fill it with boiling +water. Grate nutmeg over each. The secret of a good custard is in slow +baking and the most careful watching. Test often with a knife-blade, and +do not bake an instant after the blade comes out smooth and clean. To be +eaten cold. Six eggs are generally used; but four are plenty. + + +BOILED CUSTARD. + +One quart of milk; three or four eggs; one cup of sugar; one teaspoonful +of vanilla; half a teaspoonful of salt; one teaspoonful of corn-starch. + +Boil the milk. Dissolve the corn-starch in a little cold water, and boil +in the milk five minutes. It prevents the custard from curdling, which +otherwise it is very apt to do. Beat the eggs and sugar well together, +stir into the milk, and add the salt and flavoring. Take at once from the +fire, and, when cool, pour either into a large glass dish, covering with a +meringue of the whites, or into small glasses with a little jelly or jam +at the bottom of each. Or the whites can be used in making an apple-float, +as below, and the yolks for the custard. + +For _Cocoanut Custard_ add a cup of grated cocoanut; for _Chocolate_, two +tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate dissolved in half a cup of boiling +water. + + +TIPSY PUDDING. + +Make a boiled custard as directed. Half fill a deep dish with any light, +stale cake. Add to a teacup of wine a teacup of boiling water, and pour +over it. Add the custard just before serving. + + +APPLE FLOAT. + +Six good, acid apples stewed and strained. When cold, add a teacupful of +sugar, half a teaspoonful of vanilla, and the beaten whites of three or +four eggs. Serve at once. + + +BLANCMANGE. + +One quart of milk; one cup of sugar; half a package of gelatine; half a +teaspoonful of salt; a teaspoonful of any essence liked. + +Soak the gelatine ten minutes in half a cup of cold water. Boil the milk, +and add gelatine and the other ingredients. Strain into molds, and let it +stand in a cold place all night to harden. For chocolate blancmange add +two tablespoonfuls of scraped chocolate dissolved in a little boiling +water. + + +SPANISH CREAM. + +Make a blancmange as on p. 238; but, just before taking from the fire, add +the yolks of four eggs, and then strain. The whites can be used for +meringues. + + +WHIPPED CREAM. + +One pint of rich cream; one cup of sugar; one glass of sherry or Madeira. + +Mix all, and put on the ice an hour, as cream whips much better when +chilled. Using a whip-churn enables it to be done in a few minutes; but a +fork or egg-beater will answer. Skim off all the froth as it rises, and +lay on a sieve to drain, returning the cream which drips away to be +whipped over again. Set on the ice a short time before serving. + + +CHARLOTTE RUSSE. + +Make a sponge cake as on p. 216, and line a Charlotte mold with it, +cutting a piece the size of the bottom, and fitting the rest around the +sides. Fill with cream whipped as above, and let it stand on the ice to +set a little. This is the easiest form of Charlotte. It is improved by the +beaten whites of three eggs stirred into the cream. Flavor with half a +teaspoonful of vanilla if liked. + + +BAVARIAN CREAM. + +Whip a pint of cream to a stiff froth. Boil a pint of rich milk with a +teacupful of sugar, and add a teaspoonful of vanilla. Soak half a box of +gelatine for an hour in half a cup of warm water, and add to the milk. Add +the yolks of four eggs beaten smooth, and take from the fire instantly. + +When cold and just beginning to thicken, stir in the whipped cream. Put +in molds, and set in a cold place. This can be used also for filling +Charlotte Russe. For chocolate add chocolate as directed in rule for +boiled custard; for coffee, one teacup of clear, strong coffee. + + +STRAWBERRY CREAM. + +Three pints of strawberries mashed fine. Strain the juice, and add a +heaping cup of sugar, and then gelatine soaked as above, and dissolved in +a teacup of boiling water. Add the pint of whipped cream, and pour into +molds. + + +FRUIT CREAMS. + +Half a pint of peach or pine-apple marmalade stirred smooth with a +teacupful of sweet cream. Add gelatine dissolved as in rule for strawberry +cream, and, when cold, the pint of whipped cream. These creams are very +delicious, and not as expensive as rich pastry. + + +OMELETTE SOUFFLEE. + +Six whites and three yolks of eggs; three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar +sifted; a few drops of lemon or vanilla. Beat the yolks, flavoring, and +sugar to a light cream; beat the whites to the stiffest froth. Have the +yolks in a deep bowl. Turn the whites on to them, and do not stir, but +mix, by cutting down through the middle, and gradually mixing white and +yellow. Turn on to a tin or earthen baking-dish with high sides, and bake +in a moderate oven from ten to fifteen minutes. It will rise very high, +and must be served the instant it is done, to avoid its falling. + + +FRIED CREAM. + +One pint of milk; half a cup of sugar; yolks of three eggs; two +tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and one of flour mixed; half a teaspoonful +of vanilla, and two inches of stick-cinnamon; a teaspoonful of butter. + +Boil the cinnamon in the milk. Stir the corn-starch and flour smooth in a +little cold milk or water, and add to the milk. Beat the yolks light with +the sugar, and add. Take from the fire; take out the cinnamon, and stir in +the butter and vanilla, and pour out on a buttered tin or dish, letting it +be about half an inch thick. When cold and stiff, cut into pieces about +three inches long and two wide. Dip carefully in sifted cracker-crumbs; +then in a beaten egg, and in crumbs again, and fry like croquettes. Dry in +the oven four or five minutes, and serve at once. Very delicious. + + +PEACH FRITTERS. + +Make a batter as on p. 208. Take the fruit from a small can of peaches, +lay it on a plate, and sprinkle with a spoonful of sugar and a glass of +wine. Let it lie an hour, turning it once. Dip each piece in batter, and +drop in boiling lard, or chop and mix with batter. Prepare the juice for a +sauce as on p. 172. Fresh peaches or slices of tender apple can be used in +the same way. Drain on brown paper, and sift sugar over them, before they +go to table. + + +FREEZING OF ICE CREAM AND ICES. + +With a patent freezer ice cream and ices can be prepared with less trouble +than puff paste. The essential points are the use of rock-salt, and +pounding the ice into small bits. Set the freezer in the centre of the +tub. Put a layer of ice three inches deep, then of salt, and so on till +the tub is full, ending with ice. Put in the cream, and turn for ten +minutes, or till you can not turn the beater. Then take off the cover, +scrape down the sides, and beat like cake for at least five minutes. Pack +the tub again, having let off all water; cover with a piece of old carpet. +If molds are used, fill as soon as the cream is frozen; pack them full of +it, and lay in ice and salt. When ready to turn out, dip in warm water a +moment. Handle gently, and serve at once. + + +ICE CREAM OF CREAM. + +To a gallon of sweet cream add two and a quarter pounds of sugar, and four +tablespoonfuls of vanilla or other extract, as freezing destroys flavors. +Freeze as directed. + + +ICE CREAM WITH EGGS. + +Boil two quarts of rich milk, and add to it, when boiling, four +tablespoonfuls of corn-starch wet with a cup of cold milk. Boil for ten +minutes, stirring often. Beat twelve eggs to a creamy froth with a heaping +quart of sugar, and stir in, taking from the fire as soon as it boils. +When cold, add three tablespoonfuls of vanilla or lemon, and two quarts +either of cream or very rich milk, and freeze. For strawberry or raspberry +cream allow the juice of one quart of berries to a gallon of cream. For +chocolate cream grate half a pound of chocolate; melt it with one pint of +sugar and a little water, and add to above rule. + + +WATER ICES. + +Are simply fruit juices and water made very sweet, with a few whites of +eggs whipped stiff, and added. For lemon ice take two quarts of water, +one quart of sugar, and the juice of seven lemons. Mix and add, after it +has begun to freeze, the stiffly-beaten whites of four eggs. Orange ice is +made in the same way. + + +WINE JELLY. + +One box of gelatine; one cup of wine; three lemons, juice and rind; a +small stick of cinnamon; one quart of boiling water; one pint of white +sugar. + +Soak the gelatine in one cup of cold water half an hour. Boil the cinnamon +in the quart of water for five minutes, and then add the yellow rind of +the lemons cut very thin, and boil a minute. Take out cinnamon and rinds, +and add sugar, wine, and gelatine. Strain at once through a fine strainer +into molds, and, when cold, set on the ice to harden. To turn out, dip for +a moment in hot water. A pint of wine is used, if liked very strong. + + + +LEMON JELLY. + +Omit the wine, but make as above in other respects, using five lemons. +Oranges are nice also. The juice may be used as in lemon jelly, or the +little sections may be peeled as carefully as possible of all the white +skin. Pour a little lemon jelly in a mold, and let it harden. Then fill +with four oranges prepared in this way, and pour in liquid jelly to cover +them. Candied fruit may be used instead. The jelly reserved to add to the +mold can be kept in a warm place till the other has hardened. Fresh +strawberries or raspberries, or cut-up peaches, can be used instead of +oranges. + +CANNING AND PRESERVING. + +Canning is so simple an operation that it is unfortunate that most people +consider it difficult. The directions generally given are so troublesome +that one can not wonder it is not attempted oftener; but it need be hardly +more care than the making of apple sauce, which, by the way, can always be +made while apples are plenty, and canned for spring use. In an experience +of years, not more than one can in a hundred has ever been lost, and fruit +put up at home is far nicer than any from factories. + +In canning, see first that the jars are clean, the rubbers whole and in +perfect order, and the tops clean and ready to screw on. Fill the jars +with hot (not boiling) water half an hour before using, and have them +ready on a table sufficiently large to hold the preserving-kettle, a +dish-pan quarter full of hot water, and the cans. Have ready, also, a deep +plate, large enough to hold two cans; a silver spoon; an earthen cup with +handle; and, if possible, a can-filler,--that is, a small tin in +strainer-shape, but without the bottom, and fitting about the top. The +utmost speed is needed in filling and screwing down tops, and for this +reason every thing _must be_ ready beforehand. + +In filling the can let the fruit come to the top; then run the +spoon-handle down on all sides to let out the air; pour in juice till it +runs over freely, and screw the top down at once, using a towel to protect +the hand. Set at once in a dish-pan of water, as this prevents the table +being stained by juice, and also its hardening on the hot can. Proceed in +this way till all are full; wipe them dry; and, when cold, give the tops +an additional screw, as the glass contracts in cooling, and loosens them. +Label them, and keep in a dark, cool closet. When the fruit is used, wash +the jar, and dry carefully at the back of the stove. Wash the rubber also, +and dry on a towel, putting it in the jar when dry, and screwing on the +top. They are then ready for next year's use. Mason's cans are decidedly +the best for general use. + + +GENERAL RULES FOR CANNING. + +For all small fruits allow one-third of a pound of sugar to a pound of +fruit. Make it into a sirup with a teacup of water to each pound, and skim +carefully. Throw in the fruit, and boil ten minutes, canning as directed. +Raspberries and blackberries are best; huckleberries are excellent for +pies, and easily canned. Pie-plant can be stewed till tender. It requires +half a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. + +For peaches, gages, &c, allow the same amount of sugar as for raspberries. +Pare peaches, and can whole or in halves as preferred. Prick plums and +gages with a large darning-needle to prevent their bursting. In canning +pears, pare and drop at once, into cold water, as this prevents their +turning dark. + +Always use a porcelain-lined kettle, and stir either with a silver or a +wooden spoon,--never an iron one. Currants are nice mixed with an equal +weight of raspberries, and all fruit is more wholesome canned than in +preserves. + + +TO CAN TOMATOES. + +Unless very plenty, it is cheaper to buy these in the tins. Pour on +boiling water to help in removing the skins; fill the preserving kettle, +but add no water. Boil them five minutes, and then can. Do not season till +ready to use them for the table. Okra and tomatoes may be scalded together +in equal parts, and canned for soups. + + +PRESERVES. + +Preserves are scarcely needed if canning is nicely done. They require much +more trouble, and are too rich for ordinary use, a pound of sugar to one +of fruit being required. If made at all, the fruit must be very fresh, and +the sirup perfectly clear. For sirup allow one teacup of cold water to +every pound of sugar, and, as it heats, add to every three or four pounds +the white of an egg. Skim very carefully, boiling till no more rises, and +it is ready for use. Peaches, pears, green gages, cherries, and +crab-apples are all preserved alike. Peel, stone, and halve peaches, and +boil only a few pieces at a time till clear. Peel, core, and halve pears. +Prick plums and gages several times. Core crab-apples, and cut half the +stem from cherries. Cook till tender. Put up _when cold_ in small jars, +and paste paper over them. + + +JAMS. + +Make sirup as directed above. Use raspberries, strawberries, or any small +fruit, and boil for half an hour. Put up in small jars or tumblers; lay +papers dipped in brandy on the fruit, and paste on covers, or use patent +jelly-glasses. + + +MARMALADE. + +Quinces make the best; but crab-apples or any sour apple are also good. +Poor quinces, unfit for other use, can be washed and cut in small pieces, +coring, but not paring them. Allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar and +a teacupful of water to a pound of fruit, and boil slowly two hours, +stirring and mashing it fine. Strain through a colander, and put up in +glasses or bowls. Peach marmalade is made in the same way. + + +CURRANT JELLY. + +The fruit must be picked when just ripened, as when too old it will not +form jelly. Look over, and then put stems and all in a porcelain-lined +kettle. Crush a little of the fruit to form juice, but add no water. As it +heats, jam with a potato-masher; and when hot through, strain through a +jelly-bag. Let all run off that will, before squeezing the bag. It will be +a little clearer than the squeezed juice. To every pint of this juice add +one pound of best white sugar, taking care that it has not a blue tinge. +Jelly from bluish-white sugars does not harden well. Boil the juice +twenty-five minutes; add the sugar, and boil for five more. Put up in +glasses. + + +ORANGE MARMALADE. + +This recipe, taken from the "New York Evening Post," has been thoroughly +tested by the author, and found delicious. + +"A recipe for orange marmalade that I think will be entirely new to most +housewives, and that I know is delicious, comes from an English +housekeeper. It is a sweet that is choice and very healthful. If made now, +when oranges and lemons are plentiful, it may be had at a cost of from +five to six cents for a large glass. The recipe calls for one dozen +oranges (sweet or part bitter), one half-dozen lemons, and ten pounds of +granulated sugar. Wash the fruit in tepid water thoroughly, and scrub the +skins with a soft brush to get rid of the possible microbes that it is +said may lurk on the skins of fruit. Dry the fruit; take a very sharp +knife, and on a hard-wood board slice it very thin. Throw away the thick +pieces that come off from the ends. Save all the seeds, and put them in +one bowl; the sliced fruit in another. Pour half a gallon of water over +the contents of each bowl, and soak for thirty-six hours. Then put the +fruit in your preserving-kettle, with the water that has been standing on +it, and strain in (through a colander) the water put on the lemon-seeds. +Cook gently two hours; then add the sugar, and cook another hour, or until +the mixture jellies. Test by trying a little in a saucer. Put away in +glasses or cans, as other jelly." + + +FRUIT JELLIES. + +Crab-apple, quince, grapes, &c., are all made in the same way. Allow a +teacup of water to a pound of fruit; boil till very tender; then strain +through a cloth, and treat as currant jelly. Cherries will not jelly +without gelatine, and grapes are sometimes troublesome. Where gelatine is +needed, allow a package to two quarts of juice. + + +CANDIED FRUITS. + +Make a sirup as for preserves, and boil any fruit, prepared as directed, +until tender. Let them stand two days in the sirup. Take out; drain +carefully; lay them on plates; sift sugar over them, and dry either in the +sun or in a moderately warm oven. + +PICKLES AND CATCHUPS. + +Sour pickles are first prepared by soaking in a brine made of one pint of +coarse salt to six quarts of water. Boil this, and pour it scalding hot +over the pickle, cucumbers, green tomatoes, &c. Cucumbers may lie in this +a week, or a month even, but must be soaked in cold water two days before +using them. Other pickles lie only a month. + +Sweet pickles are made from any fruit used in preserving, allowing three, +or sometimes four, pounds of sugar to a quart of best cider vinegar, and +boiling both together. + + +CUCUMBER PICKLES. + +Half a bushel of cucumbers, small, and as nearly as possible the same +size. Make a brine as directed, and pour over them. Next morning prepare a +pickle as follows: Two gallons of cider vinegar; one quart of brown sugar. +Boil, and skim carefully, and add to it half a pint of white mustard seed; +one ounce of stick-cinnamon broken fine; one ounce of alum; half an ounce +each of whole cloves and black pepper-corns. Boil five minutes, and pour +over the cucumbers. They can be used in a week. In a month scald the +vinegar once more, and pour over them. + + +TOMATO CHUTNEY. + +One peck of green tomatoes; six large green peppers; six onions; one cup +of salt. Chop onions and peppers fine, slice the tomatoes about quarter of +an inch thick, and sprinkle the salt over all. In the morning drain off +all the salt and water, and put the tomatoes in a porcelain-lined kettle. +Mix together thoroughly two pounds of brown sugar; quarter of a pound of +mustard-seed; one ounce each of powdered cloves, cinnamon, ginger, and +black pepper; half an ounce of allspice; quarter of an ounce each of +cayenne pepper and ground mustard. Stir all into the tomatoes; cover with +cider vinegar,--about two quarts,--and boil slowly for two hours. Very +nice, but very hot. If wanted less so, omit the cayenne and ground +mustard. + + +RIPE CUCUMBER OR MELON-RIND PICKLES. + +Pare, seed, and cut lengthwise into four pieces, or in thick slices. Boil +an ounce of alum in one gallon of water, and pour over them, letting them +stand at least half a day on the back of the stove. Take them out, and let +them lie in cold water until cold. Have ready a quart of vinegar, three +pounds of brown sugar, and an ounce of stick-cinnamon and half an ounce +cloves. Boil the vinegar and sugar, and skim; add the spices and the melon +rind or cucumber, and boil for half an hour. + + +SWEET-PICKLED PEACHES, PEARS, OR PLUMS. + +Seven pounds of fruit; four pounds of brown sugar; one quart of vinegar; +one ounce of cloves; two ounces of stick-cinnamon. Pare the peaches or +not, as liked. If unpared, wash and wipe each one to rub off the wool. +Boil vinegar and sugar, and skim well; add spices, sticking one or two +cloves in each peach. Boil ten minutes, and take out into jars. Boil the +sirup until reduced one-half, and pour over them. Pears are peeled and +cored; apples peeled, cored, and quartered. They can all be put in stone +jars; but Mason's cans are better. + + +TOMATO CATCHUP. + +Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes, skins and all, and, when soft, strain +through a colander. Be sure that it is a colander, and _not_ a sieve, for +reasons to be given. Add to this pulp two quarts of best vinegar; one cup +of salt; two pounds of brown sugar; half an ounce of cayenne pepper; three +ounces each of powdered allspice and mace; two ounces of powdered +cinnamon; three ounces of celery-seed. Mix spices and sugar well together, +and stir into the tomato; add the vinegar, and stir thoroughly. Now strain +the whole through a _sieve_. A good deal of rather thick pulp will not go +through. Pour all that runs through into a large kettle, and let it boil +slowly till reduced one-half. Put the thick pulp into a smaller kettle, +and boil twenty minutes. Use as a pickle with cold meats or with boiled +fish. A teacupful will flavor a soup. In the old family rule from which +this is taken, a pint of brandy is added ten minutes before the catchup is +done; but it is not necessary, though an improvement. Bottle, and keep in +a cool, dark place. It keeps for years. + + * * * * * + +CANDIES. + + +CREAM CANDY. + +One pound of granulated sugar; one teacupful of water; half a teacupful of +vinegar. Boil--trying very often after the first ten minutes--till it will +harden in cold water. Cool, and pull white. + + +CHOCOLATE CARAMELS. + +One cup of sugar; one cup of milk; half a cup of molasses; two ounces of +grated chocolate. Melt the chocolate in a very little water; add the +sugar, milk, and molasses, and boil twenty minutes, or until very thick. +Pour in buttered pans, and cut in small squares when cool. + + +MOLASSES CANDY. + +Two cups of molasses, one of brown sugar, a teaspoonful of butter, and a +tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil from twenty minutes to half an hour. Pour +in a buttered dish, and pull when cool. + + +NUT CANDY. + +Make molasses candy as above. Just before taking it from the fire, add a +heaping pint of shelled peanuts or walnuts. Cut in strips before it is +quite cold. + + +COCOANUT DROPS. + +One cocoanut grated; half its weight in powdered sugar; whites of two +eggs; one teaspoonful of corn-starch. Mix corn-starch and sugar; add +cocoanut, and then whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Make in little +cones, and bake on buttered paper in a slow oven. + + +CHOCOLATE CREAMS. + +One pound of granulated sugar; half a pound of chocolate; one teaspoonful +of acetic acid; one tablespoonful of water; one teaspoonful of vanilla. +Melt the sugar slowly, wetting a little with the water. Add the acid and +vanilla, and boil till sugary, trying _very_ often by stirring a little in +a saucer. When sugary, take from the fire, and stir until almost hard; +then roll in little balls, and put on a buttered plate. Melt the chocolate +in two tablespoonfuls of water with a cup of sugar, and boil five minutes. +When just warm, dip in the little balls till well coated, and lay on +plates to dry. Very nice. + + * * * * * + +SICK-ROOM COOKERY. + +GENERAL HINTS. + +As recovery from any illness depends in large part upon proper food, and +as the appetite of the sick is always capricious and often requires +tempting, the greatest pains should be taken in the preparation of their +meals. If only dry toast and tea, let each be perfect, remembering +instructions for making each, and serving on the freshest of napkins and +in dainty china. A _tete-a-tete_ service is very nice for use in a +sick-room; and in any case a very small teapot can be had, that the tea +may always be made fresh. Prepare only a small amount of any thing, and +never discuss it beforehand. A surprise will often rouse a flagging +appetite. Be ready, too, to have your best attempts rejected. The article +disliked one day may be just what is wanted the next. Never let food stand +in a sick-room,--for it becomes hateful to a sensitive patient,--and have +every thing as daintily clean as possible. Remember, too, that gelatine is +not nourishing, and do not be satisfied to feed a patient on jellies. +Bread from any brown flour will be more nourishing than wheat. Corn meal +is especially valuable for thin, chilly invalids, as it contains so much +heat. In severe sickness a glass tube is very useful for feeding gruels +and drinks, and little white china boats with spouts are also good. A +wooden tray with legs six or seven inches high, to stand on the bed, is +very convenient for serving meals. Let ventilation, sunshine, and absolute +cleanliness rule in the sick-room. Never raise a dust, but wipe the carpet +with a damp cloth, and pick up bits as needed. Never let lamp or sun light +shine directly in the eyes, and, when the patient shows desire to sleep, +darken the room a little. Never whisper, nor wear rustling dresses, nor +become irritated at exactions, but keep a cheerful countenance, which +helps often far more than drugs. Experience must teach the rest. + + +BEEF TEA, OR ESSENCE OF BEEF. + +Cut a pound of perfectly lean beef into small bits. Do not allow any +particle of fat to remain. Put in a wide-mouthed bottle, cork tightly, and +set in a kettle of cold water. Boil for three hours; pour off the juice, +which is now completely extracted from the meat. There will be probably a +small cupful. Season with a saltspoonful of salt. This is given in extreme +sickness, feeding a teaspoonful at a time. + + +BEEF TEA FOR CONVALESCENTS. + +One pound of lean beef prepared as above. Add a pint of cold +water,--rain-water is best,--and soak for an hour. Cover closely, and boil +for ten minutes; or put in the oven, and let it remain an hour. Pour off +the juice, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, and use. A little +celery salt makes a change. + + +CHICKEN BROTH. + +The bones and a pound of meat from a chicken put in three pints of cold +water. Skim thoroughly when it comes to a boil, add a teaspoonful of salt, +and simmer for three hours. Strain and serve. A tablespoonful of soaked +rice or tapioca may be added after the broth is strained. Return it in +this case to the fire, and boil half an hour longer. + + +CHICKEN JELLY. + +Boil chicken as for broth, but reduce the liquid to half a pint. Strain +into a cup or little mold, and turn out when cold. + + +CHICKEN PANADA. + +Take the breast of the chicken boiled as above; cut in bits, and pound +smooth in a mortar. Take a teacupful of bread-crumbs; soak them soft in +warm milk, or, if liked better, in a little broth. Mix them with the +chicken; add a saltspoonful of salt, and, if allowed, a pinch of mace; and +serve in a cup with a spoon. + + +BEEF, TAPIOCA, AND EGG BROTH. + +One pound of lean beef, prepared as for beef tea, and soaked one hour in a +quart of cold water. Boil slowly for two hours. Strain it. Add a half +teaspoonful of salt, and half a cupful of tapioca which has been washed +and soaked an hour in warm water. Boil slowly half an hour. Serve in a +shallow bowl, in which a poached egg is put at the last, or stir a beaten +egg into one cup of the boiling soup, and serve at once with wafers or +crackers. + + +MUTTON BROTH. + +Made as chicken broth. Any strong stock, from which the fat has been +taken, answers for broths. + + +OATMEAL GRUEL. + +Have ready, in a double boiler, one quart of boiling water with a +teaspoonful of salt, and sprinkle in two tablespoonfuls of fine oatmeal. +Boil an hour; then strain, and serve with cream or milk and sugar if +ordered. Farina gruel is made in the same way. + + +INDIAN OR CORN MEAL GRUEL. + +One quart of boiling water; one teaspoonful of salt. Mix three +tablespoonfuls of corn meal with a little cold water, and stir in slowly. +Boil one hour; strain and serve, a cupful at once. + + +MILK PORRIDGE. + +One quart of boiling milk; two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with a little +cold milk and half a teaspoonful of salt. Stir into the milk, and boil +half an hour. + +Strain and serve. If allowed, a handful of raisins and a little grated +nutmeg may be boiled with it. + + +WINE WHEY. + +Boil one cup of new milk, and add half a wine-glass of good sherry or +Madeira wine. Boil a minute; strain, and use with or without sugar as +liked. + + +EGG-NOG. + +One egg; one tablespoonful of sugar; half a cup of milk; one tablespoonful +of wine. + +Beat the sugar and yolk to a cream; add the wine, and then the milk. Beat +the white to a stiff froth, and stir in very lightly. + +Omit the milk where more condensed nourishment is desired. + + +ARROW-ROOT OR RICE JELLY. + +Two heaping teaspoonfuls of either arrow-root or rice flour; a pinch of +salt; a heaping tablespoonful of sugar; one cup of boiling water. + +Mix the flour with a little cold water, and add to the boiling water. Boil +until transparent, and pour into cups or small molds. For a patient with +summer complaint, flavor by boiling a stick of cinnamon in it. For a fever +patient add the juice of quarter of a lemon. + + +DR. GAUNT'S RICE JELLY. + +Take four tablespoonfuls of rice, and boil it hard in three pints of water +for twenty minutes. Let simmer for two hours. Then force through fine hair +strainer, and allow it to cool. Place in an ice chest over night. + +DIRECTIONS FOR USE. + +Dissolve two tablespoonfuls of the rice jelly in each one-half pint of +milk. + + +RICE WATER FOR DRINK. + +One quart of boiling water; a pinch of salt; one tablespoonful of rice or +rice flour. Boil half an hour, and strain. + + +TOAST WATER. + +Toast two slices of bread very brown, but do not scorch. Put in a pitcher, +and while hot pour on one quart of cold water. Let it stand half an hour, +and it is ready for use. + + +CRUST COFFEE. + +Two thick slices of graham or Boston brown bread toasted as brown as +possible. Pour on one pint of boiling water, and steep ten minutes. Serve +with milk and sugar, like coffee. + + +BEEF JUICE. + +Broil a thick piece of beef steak three minutes. Squeeze all the juice +with a lemon-squeezer into a cup; salt very lightly, and give like beef +tea. + + +JELLY AND ICE. + +Break ice in bits no bigger than a pea. A large pin will break off bits +from a lump very easily. To a tablespoonful add one of wine jelly broken +up. It is very refreshing in fever. + + +PANADA. + +Lay in a bowl two Boston or graham crackers split; sprinkle on a pinch of +salt, and cover with boiling water. Set the bowl in a saucepan of boiling +water, and let it stand half an hour, till the crackers look clear. Slide +into a hot saucer without breaking, and eat with cream and sugar. As they +are only good hot, do just enough for the patient's appetite at one time. + + +MILK TOAST. + +Toast one or two thin slices of bread; dip quickly in a little salted +boiling water, and spread on a little butter. Boil a teacupful of milk; +thicken with a teaspoonful of flour mixed in a little cold water with a +pinch of salt; lay the toast in a small, hot, deep plate, and pour over +the milk. Cream toast is made in the same way. + + +BEEF SANDWICH. + +Two or three tablespoonfuls of raw, very tender beef, scraped fine, and +spread between two slices of slightly buttered bread. Sprinkle on pepper +and salt. + + +PREPARED FLOUR. + +Tie a pint of flour tightly in a cloth, and boil for four hours. Scrape +off the outer crust, and the inside will be found to be a dry ball. Grate +this as required, allowing one tablespoonful wet in cold milk to a pint of +boiling milk, and boiling till smooth. Add a saltspoonful of salt. This is +excellent for summer complaint, whether in adults or children. The beaten +white of an egg can also be stirred in if ordered. If this porridge is +used from the beginning of the complaint, little or no medicine will be +required. + + +PARCHED RICE. + +Roast to a deep brown as you would coffee, and then cook as in rule for +boiled rice, p. 199, and eat with cream and sugar. + + +RICE COFFEE. + +Parch as above, and grind. Allow half a cup to a quart of boiling water, +and let it steep fifteen minutes. Strain, and drink plain, or with milk +and sugar. + + +HERB TEAS. + +For the dried herbs allow one teaspoonful to a cup of boiling water. Pour +the water on them; cover, and steep ten minutes or so. Camomile tea is +good for sleeplessness; calamus and catnip for babies' colic; and cinnamon +for hemorrhages and summer complaint. Slippery-elm and flax-seed are also +good for the latter. + + +BEEF STEAK OR CHOPS, ETC. + +With beef steak, cut a small thick piece of a nice shape; broil carefully, +and serve on a very hot plate, salting a little, but using no butter +unless allowed by the physician. + +Chops should be trimmed very neatly, and cooked in the same way. A nice +way of serving a chop is to broil, and cut in small bits. Have ready a +baked potato. Cut a slice from the top; take out the inside, and season as +for eating; add the chop, and return all to the skin, covering it, and +serving as hot as possible. + +When appetite has returned, poached eggs on toast, a little salt cod with +cream, or many of the dishes given under the head of Breakfast Dishes, are +relished. Prepare small quantities, preserving the right proportions of +seasoning. + + +TAPIOCA JELLY. + +Two ounces of tapioca,--about two tablespoonfuls,--soaked over-night in +one cup of cold water. In the morning add a second cup of cold water, and +boil till very clear. Add quarter of a cup of sugar; two teaspoonfuls of +brandy or four of wine; or the thin rind and juice of a lemon may be used +instead. Very good hot, but better poured into small molds wet with cold +water, and turned out when firm. + + +TAPIOCA GRUEL. + +Half a cup of tapioca soaked over-night in a cup of cold water. In the +morning add a quart of milk and half a teaspoonful of salt, and boil three +hours. It can be eaten plain, or with sugar and wine. Most of the +blancmanges and creams given can be prepared in smaller quantities, if +allowed. Baked custards can be made with the whites of the eggs, if a very +delicate one is desired. + + +APPLE WATER. + +Two roasted sour apples, or one pint of washed dried apples. Pour on one +quart of boiling water; cover, and let it stand half an hour, when it is +ready for use. + + + + +HOUSEHOLD HINTS. + + +SOFT SOAP. + +All mutton and ham fat should be melted and strained into a large stone +pot. The practice of throwing lumps of fat into a pot, and waiting till +there are several pounds before trying them out, is a disgusting one, as +often such a receptacle is alive with maggots. Try out the fat, and strain +as carefully as you would lard or beef drippings, and it is then always +ready for use. If concentrated lye or potash, which comes in little tins, +is used, directions will be found on the tins. Otherwise allow a pound of +stone potash to every pound of grease. Twelve pounds of each will make a +barrel of soft soap. + +Crack the potash in small pieces. Put in a large kettle with two gallons +of water, and boil till dissolved. Then add the grease, and, when melted, +pour all into a tight barrel. Fill it up with boiling water, and for a +week, stir daily for five or ten minutes. It will gradually become like +jelly. + + +TO PURIFY SINKS AND DRAINS. + +To one pound of common copperas add one gallon of boiling water, and use +when dissolved. The copperas is poison, and must never be left unmarked. + + +FURNITURE POLISH. + +Mix two tablespoonfuls of sweet or linseed oil with a tablespoonful of +turpentine, and rub on with a piece of flannel, polishing with a dry +piece. + + +TO KEEP EGGS. + +Be sure that the eggs are fresh. Place them points down in a stone jar or +tight firkin, and pour over them the following brine, which is enough for +a hundred and fifty:-- + +One pint of slacked lime, one pint of salt, two ounces of cream of tartar, +and four gallons of water. Boil all together for ten minutes; skim, and, +when cold, pour it over the eggs. They can also be kept in salt tightly +packed, but not as well. + + +TO MAKE HARD WATER SOFT. + +Dissolve in one gallon of boiling water a pound and a quarter of washing +soda, and a quarter of a pound of borax. In washing clothes allow quarter +of a cup of this to every gallon of water. + + +TO TAKE OUT FRUIT-STAINS. + +Stretch the stained part tightly over a bowl, and pour on boiling water +till it is free from spot. + + +TO TAKE OUT INK-SPOTS. + +Ink spilled upon carpets or on woolen table-covers can be taken out, if +washed at once in cold water. Change the water often, and continue till +the stain is gone. + + +MIXED SPICES. + +Three heaping tablespoonfuls of ground cinnamon, one heaping one each of +clove and mace, and one even one of allspice. Mix thoroughly, and use for +dark cakes and for puddings. + + +SPICE SALT. + +Four ounces of salt; one of black pepper; one each of thyme, sweet +marjoram, and summer savory; half an ounce each of clove, allspice, and +mace; quarter of an ounce of cayenne pepper; one ounce of celery salt. Mix +all together; sift three times, and keep closely covered. Half an ounce +will flavor a stuffing for roast meat; and a tablespoonful is nice in many +soups and stews. + + +TO WASH GREASY TIN AND IRON. + +Pour a few drops of ammonia into every greasy roasting-pan, first +half-filling with warm water. A bottle of ammonia should always stand near +the sink for such uses. Never allow dirty pots or pans to stand and dry; +for it doubles the labor of washing. Pour in water, and use ammonia, and +the work is half done. + + +TO CLEAN BRASS AND COPPER. + +Scrape a little rotten-stone fine, and make into a paste with sweet oil. +Rub on with a piece of flannel; let it dry, and polish with a +chamois-skin. Copper is cleaned either with vinegar and salt mixed in +equal parts, or with oxalic acid. The latter is a deadly poison, and must +be treated accordingly. + + +WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. + +As many families have no scales for weighing, a table of measures is given +which can be used instead. Weighing is always best, but not always +convenient. The cup used is the ordinary coffee or kitchen cup, holding +half a pint. A set of tin measures, from a gill up to a quart, is very +useful in all cooking operations. + +One quart of sifted flour is one pound. + +One pint of granulated sugar is one pound. + +Two cups of butter packed are one pound. + +Ten eggs are one pound. + +Five cupfuls of sifted flour are one pound. + +A wine-glassful is half a gill. + +Eight even tablespoonfuls are a gill. + +Four even saltspoonfuls make a teaspoonful. + +A saltspoonful is a good measure of salt for all custards, puddings, +blancmanges, &c. + +One teaspoonful of soda to a quart of flour. + +Two teaspoonfuls of soda to one of cream of tartar. + +The teaspoonful given in all these receipts is just rounded full, not +heaped. + +Two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder to one quart of flour. + +One cup of sweet or sour milk as wetting for one quart of flour. + + +TIME TABLE FOR ROASTED MEATS. + +Beef, from six to eight pounds, one hour and a half, or twelve minutes to +the pound. + +Mutton, ten minutes to the pound for rare; fifteen for well-done. + +Lamb, a very little less according to age and size of roast. + +Veal, twenty minutes to a pound. + +Pork, half an hour to a pound. + +Turkey of eight or ten pounds weight, not less than three hours. + +Goose of seven or eight pounds, two hours. + +Chickens, from an hour to an hour and a half. + +Tame ducks, one hour. + +Game duck, from thirty to forty minutes. + +Partridges, grouse, &c., half an hour. + +Pigeons, half an hour. + +Small birds, twenty minutes. + + +TIME TABLE FOR BOILED MEATS. + +Beef _a la mode_, eight pounds, four hours. + +Corned beef, eight pounds, four hours. + +Corned or smoked tongue, eight pounds, four hours. + +Ham, eight or ten pounds, five hours. + +Mutton, twenty minutes to a pound. + +Veal, half an hour to a pound. + +Turkey, ten pounds, three hours. + +Chickens, one hour and a half. + +Old fowls, two or three hours. + + +TIME TABLE FOR FISH. + +Halibut and salmon, fifteen minutes to a pound. + +Blue-fish, bass, &c., ten minutes to a pound. + +Fresh cod, six minutes to a pound. + +Baked halibut, twelve minutes to a pound. + +Baked blue-fish, &c., ten minutes to a pound. + +Trout, pickerel, &c., eight minutes to a pound. + + +TIME TABLE FOR VEGETABLES. + +_Half an hour_,--Pease, potatoes, asparagus, rice, corn, summer squash, +canned tomatoes, macaroni. + +_Three-quarters of an hour_,--Young beets, young turnips, young carrots +and parsnips, baked potatoes (sweet and Irish), boiled sweet potatoes, +onions, canned corn, tomatoes. + +_One hour_,--New cabbage, shelled and string beans, spinach and greens, +cauliflower, oyster-plant, and winter squash. + +_Two hours_,--Winter carrots, parsnips, turnips, cabbage, and onions. + +_Three to eight hours_,--Old beets. + + +TIME TABLE FOR BREAD, CAKES, ETC. + +Bread,--large loaves, an hour; small loaves, from half to three-quarters +of an hour. + +Biscuits and rolls, in from fifteen to twenty minutes. + +Brown bread, steamed, three hours. + +Loaves of sponge cake, forty-five minutes; if thin, about thirty. + +Loaves of richer cake, from forty-five minutes to an hour. + +Fruit cake, about two hours, if in two or three pound loaves. + +Small thin cakes and cookies, from ten to fifteen minutes. Watch +carefully. + +Baked puddings, rice, &c., one hour. + +Boiled puddings, three hours. + +Custards to be watched and tested after the first fifteen minutes. + +Batter puddings baked, forty-five minutes. + +Pie-crust, about half an hour. + + +DEVILED HAM. + +For this purpose, use either the knuckle or any odds and ends remaining. +Cut off all dark or hard bits, and see that at least a quarter of the +amount is fat. Chop as finely as possible, reducing it almost to a paste. +For a pint-bowl of this, make a dressing as follows:-- + +One even tablespoonful of sugar; one even teaspoonful of ground mustard; +one saltspoonful of Cayenne pepper; one teacupful of good vinegar. Mix the +sugar, mustard, and pepper thoroughly, and add the vinegar little by +little. Stir it into the chopped ham, and pack it in small molds, if it is +to be served as a lunch or supper relish, turning out upon a small platter +and garnishing with parsley. + +For sandwiches, cut the bread very thin; butter lightly, and spread with +about a teaspoonful of the deviled ham. The root of a boiled tongue can be +prepared in the same way. If it is to be kept some time, pack in little +jars, and pour melted butter over the top. + +This receipt should have had place under "Meats," but was overlooked. + + + + +LIST OF UTENSILS REQUIRED FOR SUCCESSFUL WORKING. + + +TIN WARE. + +One boiler for clothes, holding eight or ten gallons.--Two dish-pans,--one +large, one medium-sized.--One two-quart covered tin pail.--One four-quart +covered tin pail.--Two thick tin four-quart saucepans.--Two two-quart +saucepans.--Four measures, from one gill to a quart, and broad and low, +rather than high.--Three tin scoops of different sizes for flour, sugar, +&c.--Two pint and two half-pint molds for jellies.--Two quart molds.--One +skimmer with long handle.--One large and one small dipper.--Four +bread-pans, 10x4x4.--Three jelly-cake tins.--Six pie-plates.--Two long +biscuit-tins.--One coffee-pot.--One colander.--One large grater.--One +nutmeg-grater.--Two wire sieves; one ten inches across, the other four, +and with tin sides.--One flour-sifter.--One fine jelly-strainer.--One +frying-basket.--One Dover egg-beater.--One wire egg-beater.--One +apple-corer.--One pancake-turner.--One set of spice-boxes, or a +spice-caster.--One pepper-box.--One flour-dredger.--One +sugar-dredger.--One biscuit-cutter.--One potato-cutter.--A dozen +muffin-rings.--Small tins for little cakes.--One muffin-pan.--One double +milk-boiler, the inside boiler holding two quarts.--One fish-boiler, which +can also be used for hams.--One deep bread-pan; a dish-pan is good, but +must be kept for this.--One steamer.--One pudding-boiler.--One +cake-box.--Six teaspoons. + + +WOODEN WARE. + +One bread-board.--One rolling-pin.--One meat-board.--One wash-board.--One +lemon-squeezer.--One potato-masher.--Two large spoons.--One small +one.--Nest of wooden boxes for rice, tapioca, &c.--Wooden pails for graham +and corn meal.--Chopping-tray.--Water-pail.--Scrubbing-pail.--Wooden cover +for flour-barrel.--One board for cutting bread.--One partitioned +knife-box. + + +IRON WARE. + +One pair of scales.--One two-gallon pot with steamer to fit.--One +three-gallon soup-pot with close-fitting cover.--One three-gallon +porcelain-lined kettle, to be kept only for preserving.--One four or six +quart one, for apple sauce, &c.--One tea-kettle.--One large and one small +frying-pan.--Two Russia or sheet iron dripping-pans; one large enough for +a large turkey.--Two gem-pans with deep cups.--Two long-handled +spoons.--Two spoons with shorter handles.--One large meat-fork.--One +meat-saw.--One cleaver.--One griddle.--One wire broiler.--One +toaster.--One waffle-iron.--One can-opener.--Three pairs of common knives +and forks.--One small Scotch or frying kettle.--One chopping-knife.--One +meat-knife.--One bread-knife.--One set of skewers.--Trussing-needles. + + +EARTHEN AND STONE WARE. + +Two large mixing-bowls, holding eight or ten quarts each.--One eight-quart +lip-bowl for cake.--Half a dozen quart bowls.--Half a dozen pint +bowls.--Three or four deep plates for putting away cold food.--Six +baking-dishes of different sizes, round or oval.--Two quart +blancmange-molds.--Two or three pitchers.--Two stone crocks, holding a +gallon each.--Two, holding two quarts each.--One bean-pot for baked +beans.--One dozen Mason's jars for holding yeast, and many things used in +a store closet.--Stone jugs for vinegar and molasses.--Two or three large +covered stone jars for pickles.--One deep one for bread.--One earthen +teapot.--One dozen pop-over cups.--One dozen custard-cups.--Measuring-cup. + + +MISCELLANEOUS. + +Scrubbing and blacking brushes.--Soap-dish.--Knife-board.-- +Vegetable-cutters.--Pastry-brush.--Egg-basket.--Market-basket.-- +Broom.--Brush.--Dust-pan.--Floor and sink cloths.--Whisk-broom.-- +Four roller-towels.--Twelve dish-towels.--Dishes enough for setting +servants' table, heavy stone-china being best. + + + + +HINTS TO TEACHERS. + + +In beginning with a class of school-girls from fourteen to eighteen, it is +best to let the first two or three lessons be demonstration lessons; that +is, to have all operations performed by the teacher. An assistant may be +chosen from the class, who can help in any required way. The receipts for +the day should first be read, and copied plainly by all the pupils. Each +process must be fully explained, and be as daintily and deftly performed +as possible. Not more than six dishes at the most can be prepared in one +lesson, and four will be the usual number. Two lessons a week, from two to +three hours each, are all for which the regular school-course gives time; +and there should be not more than one day between, as many dishes can not +be completed in one lesson. + +After yeast and bread have been once made by the teacher, bread should be +the first item in every lesson thereafter, and the class made a +practice-class. Each pupil should make bread twice,--once under the +teacher's supervision, and at least once entirely alone. In a large class +this may occupy the entire time in the school-year. Let the most important +operations be thoroughly learned, even if there is little variety. To make +and bake all forms of bread, to broil a steak, boil a potato, and make +good tea and coffee, may not seem sufficient result for a year's work; +but the girl who can do this has mastered the principles of cooking, and +is abundantly able to go on alone. + +The fire should be made and cared for by each in turn, and the best modes +of washing dishes, and keeping the room and stores in the best order, be +part of each lesson. + +Once a week let a topic be given out, on which all are to write, any +ingredient in cooking being chosen, and the papers read and marked in +order of merit. + +Once a month examine on these topics, and on what has been learned. Let +digestion and forms of food be well understood, and spare no pains to make +the lesson attractive and stimulating to interest. + +In classes for ladies the work is usually done entirely by the teacher, +and at least five dishes are prepared. A large class can thus be taught; +but the results will never be as satisfactory as in a practice-class, +though the latter is of course much more troublesome to the teacher, as it +requires far more patience and tact to watch and direct the imperfect +doing of a thing than to do it one's self. + +A class lunch or supper is a pleasant way of demonstrating what progress +has been made; and, in such entertainment, do not aim at great variety, +but insist upon the perfect preparation of a few things. To lay and +decorate a table prettily is an accomplishment, and each classroom should +have enough china and glass to admit of this. + +To indicate the method which the writer has found practicable and useful, +a course of twelve lessons is given, embracing the essential operations; +and beyond this the teacher can construct her own bills of fare. When the +making of bread begins, it will be found that not more than two or three +other things can be made at one lesson. Let one of these be a simple cake +or pudding for the benefit of the class, whose interest is wonderfully +stimulated by something good to eat. + +Large white aprons and small half-sleeves to draw on over the +dress-sleeves are essential, and must be insisted upon. A little cap of +Swiss muslin is pretty, and finishes the uniform well, but is not a +necessity. + +For the rest each teacher must judge for herself, only remembering to +_demand the most absolute neatness_ in all work done, and to _give the +most perfect patience_ no matter how stupid the pupil may seem. + + +TWELVE LESSONS. + + +LESSON FIRST. + +To make stock. +Beef rolls. +Apple float. +Boiled custard. + +LESSON SECOND. + +To clarify fat or drippings. +Clear soup. +Beef soup with vegetables. +To make caramel. +Cream cakes. + +LESSON THIRD. + +Beef _a la mode_. +To boil potatoes. +Mashed potatoes. +Potato snow. +Potato croquettes. +Yeast. +Wine jelly. + +LESSON FOURTH. + +Bread. +Plain rolls. +Beef hash with potatoes. +Beef croquettes. +Coddled apples. + +LESSON FIFTH. + +Graham bread. +Rye bread. +To broil beef steak. +To boil macaroni. +Macaroni baked with cheese. +To make a _roux_. +Baked custard. + +LESSON SIXTH. + +Parker-House rolls. +Steamed brown bread. +Puree of salmon. +Croquettes of salmon. +Corn-starch pudding. + +LESSON SEVENTH. + +Baked fish. +To devil ham. +Stuffed eggs. +Plain omelet. +Saratoga potatoes. +To use stale bread. +Bread pudding and plain sauce. + +LESSON EIGHTH. + +Irish stew. +Boiled cabbage. +Baked cabbage. +Lyonnaise potatoes. +Whipped cream. +Sponge cake. +Charlotte Russe. + +LESSON NINTH. + +Bean soup. +To dress and truss a chicken. +Chicken fricassee,--brown. +Chicken pie. +Meringues, plain and with jelly. + +LESSON TENTH. + +Oyster soup. +Oyster scallop. +Fried oysters. +Pie-crust. +Oyster patties. +Lemon and apple pie. + +LESSON ELEVENTH. + +To bone a turkey or chicken. +Force-meat. +Boiled parsnips. +To boil rice. +Parsnip fritters. + +LESSON TWELFTH. + +To decorate boned turkey. +To roast beef. +To bake potatoes with beef. +Gravy. +Rice croquettes. +Chicken or turkey croquettes. + + +LIST OF TOPICS FOR TWENTY LESSONS. + +Wheat and corn. +Making of flour and meal. +Tea. +Coffee. +Chocolate and cocoa. +Tapioca and sago. +Rice. +Salt. +Pepper. +Cloves and allspice. +Cinnamon, nutmegs, and mace. +Ginger and mustard. +Olive-oil. +Raisins and currants. +Macaroni and vermicelli. +Potatoes. +Sweet potatoes. +Yeast and bread. +Butter. +Fats. + + +LIST OF AUTHORITIES TO WHICH THE TEACHER MAY REFER. + +Draper's Physiology. +Dalton's Physiology. +Carpenter's Physiology. +Foster's Physiology. +Youman's Chemistry. +Johnston's Chemistry of Common Life. +Lewes's Physiology of Common Life. +Gray's How Plants Grow. +Rand's Vegetable Kingdom. +Brillat Savarin's Art of Dining. +Brillat Savarin's Physiologie du Gout. +The Cook's Oracle, Dr. Kitchener. +Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Chambers. +Food and Dietetics, by Dr. Pary. +Food and Digestion, by Dr. Brinton. +Food, by Dr. Letheby. +Cook-books at discretion. + + + + +QUESTIONS FOR FINAL EXAMINATION AT END OF YEAR. + +1. How is soup-stock made? + +2. How is white soup made? + +3. What are purees? + +4. How is clear soup made? + +5. How is caramel made, and what are its uses? + +6. How is meat jelly made and colored? + +7. How is meat boiled, roasted, and broiled? + +8. How can cold meat be used? + +9. How is poultry roasted and broiled? + +10. How are potatoes cooked? + +11. How are dried leguminous vegetables cooked? + +12. How is rice boiled dry? + +13. How is macaroni boiled? + +14. How are white and brown sauces made? + +15. Give plain salad-dressing and mayonnaise. + +16. How are beef tea and chicken broth made? + +17. Give receipts for plain omelet and omelette soufflee. + +18. How are bread, biscuit, and rolls made? + +19. How is pie-crust made? + +20. Rule for puff paste? + +21. How should you furnish a kitchen? + +22. What are the best kinds of cooking utensils? + + +END. + + + + +BIBLIOGRAPHY. + + +THE CHEMISTRY OF COOKERY. By W. Mattieu Williams. + +THE PERFECT WAY IN DIET. By Dr. Anna Kingsford. + +FOODS. By Edward Smith. + +FRUITS, AND HOW TO USE THEM. By Hester M. Poole. + +EATING FOR STRENGTH. Dr. M.L. Holbrook. + +FRUIT AND BREAD. By Gustav Schlickeyesen. Translated by Dr. M.L. Holbrook. + +FOOD AND FEEDING. By Sir Henry Thompson. + +MRS. LINCOLN'S BOSTON COOK BOOK. What to Do and What not to Do in Cooking. + +JUST HOW. By Mrs. A.D.T. Whitney. + +MRS. RORER'S PHILADELPHIA COOK BOOK. + +PRACTICAL COOKING AND DINNER-GIVING. Mrs. Henderson. + +IN THE KITCHEN. By Mrs. E.S. Miller. + +GOOD LIVING. A Practical Cook Book for Town and Country. By Sara Van Buren +Brugiere. + +FRENCH DISHES FOR AMERICAN TABLES. By Pierre Caron. + +CUISINE CLASSIQUE. Urbain-Dubois. + +CAREME. + +GOUFFE. + +SOYER. + +DIET FOR THE SICK. A Treatise on the Values of Foods, their Application to +Special Conditions of Health and Disease, and on the Best Methods of their +Preparation. By Mrs. Mary E. Henderson. + +Cookery-Books at discretion. + + + + +INDEX. + + +PART II. + + +Apple Dumplings, 239. + float, 246. + water, 269. + +Artichokes, 206. + +Asparagus, 205. + +Authorities for reference, 286. + + +Beans, string, 203. + shelled, 203. + +Beef _a la mode_, 147. + corned, 149. + frizzled, 190. + juice, 266. + rolls, 153. + sandwich, 267. + steak, 158. + steak for sick, 268. + tea or essence, 262. + tea for convalescents, 262. + Virginia fashion, 148. + +Beets, 199. + +Bibliography, 288. + +Birds, 164. + +Biscuit, baking-powder, 216. + beaten, 216. + soda and cream of tartar, 215. + +Blancmange, 246. + +Boiled meats and stews, 146 + +Bread-making and flour, 208. + +Bread, 210. + brown, 214. + cake, 227. + corn, 218. + graham, 212. + pancakes, 221. + rye, 213. + sour, 220. + to use dry, 220. + to freshen stale, 221. + +Breakfast puffs or popovers, 217. + +Brown-bread brewis, 220. + +Broth, mutton, 125, 263. + chicken, 126. + beef, tapioca, and egg, 263. + +Buns, plain, 228, + + +Cake making, 221. + +Cake, apple, 220. + bread, 227. + cup, 224. + Dover, 226. + fruit, 225. + gold, 227. + huckleberry, 219. + pound, 225. + rolled jelly, 224. + sponge, 223. + white or silver, 226. + +Cakes, cream, 230. + filling for, 231. + drop, 230. + buckwheat, 219. + +Cabbage, 201. + +Candy, cream, 259. + +Candy, molasses, 260. + nut, 260. + +Chocolate creams, 260. + caramels, 260 + +Cocoanut drops, 260. + +Canning, General Rules for, 253. + tomatoes, 253. + +Caramel, 131. + +Carrots, 200. + +Carrots _sautes_, 200. + +Casserole of rice and meat, 169. + +Cauliflower, 201. + +Cheese fondu, 184. + souffle, 184. + +Charlotte Russe, 247. + +Cheese straws, 237. + +Chicken broth, 126. + broth for sick, 263. + croquettes, Philadelphia, 168. + croquettes, 167. + fricassee, brown, 165. + fricassee, white, 166. + fried, 165. + jellied, 173. + panada, 263. + pie, 160. + roasted or boiled, 164. + salad, 179. + +Chocolate, 196. + +Cocoa, 196. + +Coffee, 194. + crust, 266. + rice, 267. + +Copper, to clean, 272. + +Corn, green, 204. + fritters, 204. + pudding, 204. + +Cream, Bavarian, 247. + fried, 249. + fruit, 248. + ice, with cream, 250. + ice, with eggs, 250. + to freeze, 249. + Spanish, 247. + strawberry, 248. + whipped, 247. + +Crisped crackers, 220. + +Croquettes, chicken, 167. + potato, 198. + rice, 207. + +Crushed wheat, boiled, 185. + +Curries, 153. + +Custard, baked, 245. + boiled, 245. + pie, 236. + + +Doughnuts, 228. + +Dressing, boiled for cold slaw, 179. + for poultry, 162. + without oil, 179. + plain salad, 177. + +Drop cakes, 230. + +Duck, roast, 164. + + +Egg-nog, 264. +Egg-plant, 204. + baked, 205. + fritters, 204. + +Eggs, baked, 181. + boiled, 180. + poached, 181. + scrambled, 181. + stuffed, 182. + to keep, 271. + +Examination questions, 287. + + +Fish, 131. + baked, 133. + balls, 188. + boiled, 134. + broiled, 135. + chowder, 140. + fried, 136. + hash, 189. + potted, 139. +salt cod, boiled, 188. +salt cod, with cream, 139. + spiced, 139. + stewed, 137. + with cream, 189. + +Flour browned for soup, 130. + prepared, 267. + +Freezing ices and creams, 249. + +Fritters, clam, 143. + oyster, 143. + peach, 249. + +Fruits, candied, 256. + jellied, 256. + +Fruit-stains, to take out, 271. + +Fruit cream, 248. + +Furniture polish, 270. + + +Gingerbread, 229. + +Ginger snaps, 229. + +Goose, roasted, 164. + +Gruel, corn meal or Indian, 264. + oatmeal, 264. + tapioca, 269. + + +Ham, boiled, 150. + deviled, 170. + fried, 160. + +Hash, meat, 191. + +Hasty pudding, 186. + +Herb teas, 267. + +Herring, roe, 189. + +Hints to teachers, 280. + +Hoe-cake, 218. + +Hominy cakes, 186. + coarse, 185. + fine, 186. + +Huckleberry cake, 219. + +Ink-spots, to take out, 271. + +Iron or tin, to wash, 272. +Italia's Pride, 169. + + +Jams, 254. + +Jelly and ice, 266. + arrow-root, 265. + rice, Dr. Gaunt's, 265. + chicken, 263. + currant, 255. + fruit, 256. + lemon, 251. + rice, 265. + tapioca, 268. + wine, 251. + +Jumbles, 230. + + +List of utensils required, 277. + +Lobster, boiled, 143. + curried, 144. + + +Macaroni, 207. + with cheese, 208. + +Mackerel, salt, 189. + +Marmalade, 254. + +Marmalade, orange, 255. + +Mayonnaise, 178. + of salmon, 180. + +Meats, 144. + roasted, 154. + broiled and fried, 158. + +Meat, cold, to warm, 161. + +Meringues, 231. + +Mince-meat, for pies, 237. + +Muffins, graham, 213. + rye, 213. + +Mush, 186. + +Mutton, boiled, 149. + broth, 125. + broth for sick, 263. + chops, 268. + leg of, stuffed, 155. + roasted, 155. + + +Oatmeal, boiled, 185. + +Omelet, plain, 182. + baked, 183. + +Omelette soufflee, 248. + +Onions, boiled, 201. + +Oyster or clam fritters, 143. + +Oyster-plant, 200. + +Oysters, fried, 141. + for pie or patties, 142. + scalloped, 141. + smothered, 143. + spiced or pickled, 142. + stewed, 141. + +Panada, 266. + +Parsnips, 199. + fritters, 199. + +Pastry and pies, 232. + +Patties, 233. + +Pease, 202. + field, 202. + +Pickles, cucumber, 257. + ripe cucumber, 258. + melon-rind, 258. + sweet; peaches, &c, 258, + +Pie, cherry or berry, 236. + custard, 236. + dried-apple, 234. + grandmother's apple-pie, 234. + lemon, 235. + squash or pumpkin, 236. + sweet potato, or pudding, 235. + +Plain pie-crust, 232. + +Pork and beans, 157. + roasted, 157. + steak, 160. + +Potato croquettes, 198. + snow, 198. + +Potatoes, baked, 198. + baked with beef, 198. + boiled, 197. + Lyonnaise, 187. + mashed, 198. + Saratoga, 188. + +Potatoes, stewed, 187. + sweet, 199. + what to do with cold, 187. + +Poultry, to clean, 161. + dressing for, 162. + +Porridge, milk, 264. + +Preserves, 254. + +Pudding, any-day plum, 240. + batter, 240. + bread, 241. + bread-and-apple, 242. + bread-and-butter, 241. + bird's-nest, 242. + corn-starch, 243. + cabinet, 244. + corn-meal or Indian, 245. + English plum, 239. + gelatine, 244. + minute, 243. + plain rice, 243. + Sunder land, 241. + tapioca, 242. + tapioca cream, 243. + tipsy, 246. + +Puff paste, 233. + +Purees, 128. + +Rammekins, 237. + +Rice, boiled, 207. + croquettes, 207. + water, 265. + parched, 267. + +Rolls, plain, 214. + Parker-House, 215, + +Roux, to make, 174. + +Salads, 173. + +Salmi of duck or game, 169. + +Sauces, 173. + +Sauce, apple, 176. + bread, 174. + celery, 175 + cranberry, 175. + foaming, 176. + fruit, 177. + hard, 177. + mayonnaise, 178. + mint, 175. + molasses, 176. + plain pudding, 176. + +Spanish tomato, 178. + +Sausage, fried, 190. + +Short-cake, 217. + +Sinks and drains, to purify, 270. + +Soft soap, 270. + +Soup, amber or clear, 123. + beef, with vegetables, 122. + clam, 127. + mock turtle, 125. + onion, 130. + oyster, 127. + pea, 129. + tomato, without meat, 126. + tomato, hasty, 126. + turtle-bean, 129. + white, 124. + +Spanish tomato sauce, 178. + +Spinach, 205. + +Spice salt, 272. + +Spices, mixed, 271. + +Stew, Brunswick, 154. + brown, 152. + Irish, 151. + white, 152. + +Stock and seasoning, 119. + +Squash, winter, 202. + summer, 202. + +Succotash, 203. + + +Tea, 194. + +Time table for roasted meats, 273. + for boiled meats, 274. + for fish, 274. + for vegetables, 274. + bread, cake, &c., 275. + +Toast, dry or buttered, 192. + for sick, 266. + milk, 193, 266, + water, 193, 265. + +Topics for twenty lessons, 285. + +Tomato catchup, 259. + chutney, 257. + +Tomatoes, baked, 206. + canned, 253. + stewed, 206. + fried, 206. + boiled, 207. + +Tongue, boiled, 150. + deviled, 170. + +Tripe, 161. + +Turkey, boiled, 167. + boned, 171. + roasted, 163. + +Turnips, 200. + +Twelve lessons, 282. + + +Veal, 156. + cutlets, 159. + loaf, 191. + minced, 192. + +Venison, roast, 157. + + +Wafers, 216. + +Waffles, 216. + rice or hominy, 217. + +Water, apple, 269. + toast, 266. + hard, to make soft, 271. + ices, 250. + +Weights and measures, 272. + +Wine whey, 264. + +Yeast, 209. + + + + +SOME PASSAGES IN THE PRACTICE OF DR. MARTHA SCARBOROUGH. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL. + +_16mo. Cloth. Price, $1.00._ + +Besides being equal to Mrs. Campbell's best work in the past, it is +strikingly original in presenting the ethics of the body as imperiously +claiming recognition in the radical cure of inebriety. It forces attention +to the physical and spiritual value of foods, and weaves precedent and +precept into one of the most beguiling stories of recent date. + + It is the gospel of good food, with the added influence of fresh air, + sunlight, cleanliness, and physical exercise that occupy profitably + the attention of Helen Campbell. Martha is a baby when the story + begins, and a child not yet in her teens when the narrative comes to + an end, but she has a salutary power over many lives. Her father is a + wise country physician, who makes his chaise, in his daily progress + about the hills, serve as his little daughter's cradle and + kindergarten. When she gets old enough to understand he expounds to + her his views of the sins committed against hygiene, and his lessons + sink into an appreciative mind. When he encounters particularly hard + cases she applies his principles with unfailing logic, and is able to + suggest helpful means of cure. The old doctor is delightfully + sagacious in demonstrating how the confirmed pie-eater marries the tea + inebriate, with the result in doughnut-devouring, dyspeptic, and + consumptive offspring. "What did they die of?" asked little Martha, in + the village graveyard; and her father answers solemnly, + "Intemperance." So Martha declares that she will be a "food doctor," + and later on she helps her father in saving several victims of strong + drink. The book is one that should find hosts of earnest readers, for + its admonitions are sadly needed, not in the country alone, but in the + city, where, if better ideas of diet prevail, people have yet as a + rule a long way to go before they attain the path of wisdom. Meanwhile + it remains true, as Mrs. Campbell makes Dr Scarborough declare, that + the cabbage soup and black bread of the poorest French peasants are + really better suited to the sustenance of healthy life than the + "messes" that pass for food in many parts of rural New England.--_The + Beacon._ + +_Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +Publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +ROGER BERKELEY'S PROBATION. + +A Story. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL, + +_Author of "Prisoners of Poverty," "Mrs. Herndon's Income," "Miss +Melinda's Opportunity," "The What-to-do Club," etc._ + +16mo, cloth, price, $1.00; paper, 50 cents. + + This story is on the scale of a cabinet picture. It presents + interesting figures, natural situations, and warm colors. Written in a + quiet key, it is yet moving, and the letter from Bolton describing the + fortunate sale of Roger's painting of "The Factory Bell" sends a tear + of sympathetic joy to the reader's eye. Roger Berkeley was a young + American art student in Paris, called home by the mortal sickness of + his mother, and detained at home by the spendthriftness of his father + and the embarrassment that had overtaken the family affairs through + the latter cause. A concealed mortgage on the old homestead, the + mysterious disappearance of a package of bonds intended for Roger's + student use, and the paralytic incapacity of the father to give the + information which his conscience prompted him to give, have a share in + the development of the story. Roger is obliged for the time to abandon + his art work, and takes a situation in a mill; and this trying + diversion from his purpose is his "probation." How he profits by this + loss is shown in the result. The mill-life gives Mrs. Campbell + opportunity to express herself characteristically in behalf of + down-trodden "labor." The whole story is simple, natural, sweet, and + tender; and the figures of Connie, poor little cripple, and Miss + Medora Flint, angular and snappish domestic, lend picturesqueness to + its group of characters.--_Literary World_. + +_Sold by all Booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +Publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +MISS MELINDA'S OPPORTUNITY. + +A STORY. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL, + +AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," "PRISONERS OF +POVERTY." + +16mo. Cloth, price, $1.00; paper covers, 50 cents. + + "Mrs. Helen Campbell has written 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity' with a + definite purpose in view, and this purpose will reveal itself to the + eyes of all of its philanthropic readers. The true aim of the story is + to make life more real and pleasant to the young girls who spend the + greater part of the day toiling in the busy stores of New York. Just + as in the 'What-to-do Club' the social level of village life was + lifted several grades higher, so are the little friendly circles of + shop-girls made to enlarge and form clubs in 'Miss Melinda's + Opportunity.'"--_Boston Herald._ + + "'Miss Melinda's Opportunity,' a story by Helen Campbell, is in a + somewhat lighter vein than are the earlier books of this clever + author; but it is none the less interesting and none the less + realistic. The plot is unpretentious, and deals with the simplest and + most conventional of themes; but the character-drawing is uncommonly + strong, especially that of Miss Melinda, which is a remarkably + vigorous and interesting transcript from real life, and highly + finished to the slightest details. There is much quiet humor in the + book, and it is handled with skill and reserve. Those who have been + attracted to Mrs. Campbell's other works will welcome the latest of + them with pleasure and satisfaction."--_Saturday Gazette._ + + "The best book that Helen Campbell has yet produced is her latest + story, 'Miss Melinda's Opportunity,' which is especially strong in + character-drawing, and its life sketches are realistic and full of + vigor, with a rich vein of humor running through them. Miss Melinda is + a dear lady of middle life, who has finally found her opportunity to + do a great amount of good with her ample pecuniary means by helping + those who have the disposition to help themselves. The story of how + some bright and energetic girls who had gone to New York to earn their + living put a portion of their earnings into a common treasury, and + provided themselves with a comfortable home and good fare for a very + small sum per week, is not only of lively interest, but furnishes + hints for other girls in similar circumstances that may prove of great + value. An unpretentious but well-sustained plot runs through the book, + with a happy ending, in which Miss Melinda figures as the angel that + she is."--_Home Journal._ + +_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB + +A STORY FOR GIRLS + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL. + +16mo. Cloth. Price $1.50. + + "'The What-to-do Club' is an unpretending story. It introduces us to a + dozen or more village girls of varying ranks. One has had superior + opportunities; another exceptional training; two or three have been + 'away to school;' some are farmers' daughters; there is a teacher, two + or three poor self-supporters,--in fact, about such an assemblage as + any town between New York and Chicago might give us. But while there + is a large enough company to furnish a delightful coterie, there is + absolutely no social life among them.... Town and country need more + improving, enthusiastic work to redeem them from barrenness and + indolence. Our girls need a chance to do independent work, to study + practical business, to fill their minds with other thoughts than the + petty doings of neighbors. A What-to-do Club is one step toward higher + village life. It is one step toward disinfecting a neighborhood of the + poisonous gossip which floats like a pestilence around localities + which ought to furnish the most desirable homes in our + country.'"--_The Chautauquan._ + + "'The What-to-do Club' is a delightful story for girls, especially for + New England girls, by Helen Campbell. The heroine of the story is + Sybil Waite, the beautiful, resolute, and devoted daughter of a + broken-down but highly educated Vermont lawyer. The story shows how + much it is possible for a well-trained and determined young woman to + accomplish when she sets out to earn her own living, or help others. + Sybil begins with odd jobs of carpentering, and becomes an artist so + woodwork. She is first jeered at, then admired, respected, and finally + loved by a worthy man. The book closes pleasantly with John claiming + Sybil as his own. The labors of Sybil and her friends and of the New + Jersey 'Busy Bodies,' which are said to be actual facts, ought to + encourage many young women to more successful competition in the + battles of life.'"--_Golden Rule._ + + "In the form of a story, this book suggests ways in which young women + may make money at home, with practical directions for so doing. + Stories with a moral are not usually interesting, but this one is an + exception to the rule. The narrative is lively, the incidents probable + and amusing, the characters well-drawn, and the dialects various and + characteristic. Mrs. Campbell is a natural storyteller, and has the + gift of making a tale interesting. Even the recipes for pickles and + preserves, evaporating fruits, raising poultry, and keeping bees, are + made poetic and invested with a certain ideal glamour, and we are + thrilled and absorbed by an array of figures of receipts and + expenditures, equally with the changeful incidents of flirtation, + courtship, and matrimony. Fun and pathos, sense and sentiment, are + mingled throughout, and the combination has resulted in one of the + brightest stories of the season."--_Woman's Journal._ + +_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, by publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME. + +A NOVEL. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL. + +AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB." + +One volume. 16mo. Cloth. $1.50. + + "Confirmed novel-readers who have regarded fiction as created for + amusement and luxury alone, lay down this book with a new and serious + purpose in life. The social scientist reads it, and finds the solution + of many a tangled problem; the philanthropist finds in it direction + and counsel. A novel written with a purpose, of which never for an + instant does the author lose sight, it is yet absorbing in its + interest. It reveals the narrow motives and the intrinsic selfishness + of certain grades of social life; the corruption of business methods; + the 'false, fairy gold,' of fashionable charities, and 'advanced' + thought. Margaret Wentworth is a typical New England girl, reflective, + absorbed, full of passionate and repressed intensity under a quiet and + apparently cold exterior. The events that group themselves about her + life are the natural result of such a character brought into contact + with real life. The book cannot be too widely read."--_Boston + Traveller._ + + "If the 'What-to-do Club' was clever, this is decidedly more so. It is + a powerful story, and is evidently written in some degree, we cannot + quite say how great a degree, from fact. The personages of the story + are very well drawn,--indeed, 'Amanda Briggs' is as good as anything + American fiction has produced. We fancy we could pencil on the margin + the real names of at least half the characters. It is a book for the + wealthy to read that they may know something that is required of them, + because it does not ignore the difficulties in their way, and + especially does not overlook the differences which social standing + puts between class and class. It is a deeply interesting story + considered as mere fiction, one of the best which has lately appeared. + We hope the authoress will go on in a path where she has shown herself + so capable."--_The Churchman._ + + "In Mrs. Campbell's novel we have a work that is not to be judged by + ordinary standards. The story holds the reader's interest by its + realistic pictures of the local life around us, by its constant and + progressive action, and by the striking dramatic quality of scenes and + incidents, described in a style clear, connected, and harmonious. The + novel-reader who is not taken up and made to share the author's + enthusiasm before getting half-way through the book must possess a + taste satiated and depraved by indulgence in exciting and sensational + fiction. The earnestness of the author's presentation of essentially + great purposes lends intensity to her narrative. Succeeding as she + does in impressing us strongly with her convictions, there is nothing + of dogmatism in their preaching. But the suggestiveness of every + chapter is backed by pictures of real life."--_New York World._ + +_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +PRISONERS OF POVERTY. + +WOMEN WAGE-WORKERS: THEIR TRADES AND THEIR LIVES. + +BY HELEN CAMPBELL, + +AUTHOR OF "THE WHAT-TO-DO CLUB," "MRS. HERNDON'S INCOME," "MISS MELINDA'S +OPPORTUNITY," ETC. + +16mo. Cloth. $1.00. Paper, 50 cents. + + The author writes earnestly and warmly, but without prejudice, and her + volume is an eloquent plea for the amelioration of the evils with + which she deals. In the present importance into which the labor + question generally has loomed, this volume is a timely and valuable + contribution to its literature, and merits wide reading and careful + thought.--_Saturday Evening Gazette._ + + She has given us a most effective picture of the condition of New York + working-women, because she has brought to the study of the subject not + only great care but uncommon aptitude. She has made a close personal + investigation, extending apparently over a long time; she has had the + penetration to search many queer and dark corners which are not often + thought of by similar explorers; and we suspect that, unlike too many + philanthropists, she has the faculty of winning confidence and + extracting the truth. She is sympathetic, but not a sentimentalist; + she appreciates exactness in facts and figures; she can see both sides + of a question, and she has abundant common sense.--_New York Tribune._ + + Helen Campbell's "Prisoners of Poverty" is a striking example of the + trite phrase that "truth is stranger than fiction." It is a series of + pictures of the lives of women wage-workers in New York, based on the + minutest personal inquiry and observation. No work of fiction has ever + presented more startling pictures, and, indeed, if they occurred in a + novel would at once be stamped as a figment of the brain.... + Altogether, Mrs. Campbell's book is a notable contribution to the + labor literature of the day, and will undoubtedly enlist sympathy for + the cause of the oppressed working-women whose stories do their own + pleading.--_Springfield Union._ + + It is good to see a new book by Helen Campbell. She has written + several for the cause of working-women, and now comes her latest and + best work, called "Prisoners of Poverty," on women wage-workers and + their lives. It is compiled from a series of papers written for the + Sunday edition of a New York paper. The author is well qualified to + write on these topics, having personally investigated the horrible + situation of a vast army of working-women in New York,--a reflection + of the same conditions that exist in all large cities. + + It is glad tidings to hear that at last a voice is raised for the + woman side of these great labor questions that are seething below the + surface calm of society. And it is well that one so eloquent and + sympathetic as Helen Campbell has spoken in behalf of the victims and + against the horrors, the injustices, and the crimes that have forced + them into conditions of living--if it can be called living--that are + worse than death. It is painful to read of these terrors that exist so + near our doors, but none the less necessary, for no person of mind or + heart can thrust this knowledge aside. It is the first step towards a + solution of the labor complications, some of which have assumed foul + shapes and colossal proportions, through ignorance, weakness, and + wickedness.--_Hartford Times._ + +_Sold by all booksellers. Mailed, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the +publishers_, + +LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY, BOSTON. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes for e-book: + +In this book, spelling is inconsistent, but is generally left as found in +the original scans used for transcription. Some of the most common +inconsistencies are noted below. If you are using this book for research, +please verify any spelling or punctuation with another source. + +Spelling variants: + omelet(te), omlet + soufle(e) + Gouffe(e) + cocoanut, cocoa-nut + dishcloth, dish-cloth + forcemeat, force-meat + oilcloth, oil-cloth + popovers, pop-overs + schoolgirls, school-girls + storeroom, store-room + underdone, under-done + underwear, under-wear + +Obvious typos corrected: + identital for identical + cacoa-nut for cocoa-nut + BOILED for BROILED + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Easiest Way in Housekeeping and +Cooking, by Helen Campbell + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE EASIEST WAY IN *** + +***** This file should be named 15360.txt or 15360.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/5/3/6/15360/ + +Produced by Audrey Longhurst, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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