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+*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14776 ***
+
+THE ARABIAN ART
+
+OF
+
+TAMING AND TRAINING
+
+WILD & VICIOUS HORSES.
+
+
+BY
+
+
+T. GILBERT, BRO. RAMSEY & CO.
+
+
+PRINTED AND SOLD FOR THE PUBLISHER BY
+HENRY WATKINS
+PRINTER, 225 & 227 WEST FIFTH STREET, CINCINNATI, OHIO
+1856.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+The first domestication of the horse, one of the greatest achievements of
+man in the animal kingdom, was not the work of a day; but like all other
+great accomplishments, was brought about by a gradual process of
+discoveries and experiments. He first subdued the more subordinate
+animals, on account of their being easily caught and tamed, and used for
+many years the mere drudges, the ox, the ass, and the camel, instead of
+the fleet and elegant horse. This noble animal was the last brought into
+subjection, owing, perhaps, to man's limited and inaccurate knowledge of
+his nature, and his consequent inability to control him. This fact alone
+is sufficient evidence of his superiority over all other animals.
+
+Man, in all his inventions and discoveries, has almost invariably
+commenced with some simple principle, and gradually developed it from one
+degree of perfection to another. The first hint that we have of the use of
+electricity was Franklin's drawing it from the clouds with his kite. Now
+it is the instrument of conveying thought from mind to mind, with a
+rapidity that surpasses time. The great propelling power that drives the
+wheel of the engine over our land, and ploughs the ocean with our
+steamers, was first discovered escaping from a tea-kettle. And so the
+powers of the horse, second only to the powers of steam, became known to
+man only as experiments, and investigation revealed them.
+
+The horse, according to the best accounts we can gather, has been the
+constant servant of man for nearly four thousand years, ever rewarding him
+with his labor and adding to his comfort in proportion to his skill and
+manner of using him; but being to those who govern him by brute force, and
+know nothing of the beauty and delight to be gained from the cultivation
+of his finer nature, a fretful, vicious, and often dangerous servant;
+whilst to the Arabs, whose horse is the pride of his life, and who governs
+him by the law of kindness, we find him to be quite a different animal.
+The manner in which he is treated from a foal gives him an affection and
+attachment for his master not known in any other country. The Arab and his
+children, the mare and her foal, inhabit the tent together; and although
+the foal and the mare's neck are often pillows for the children to roll
+upon, no accident ever occurs, the mare being as careful of the children
+as of the colt. Such is the mutual attachment between the horse and his
+master, that he will leave his companions at his master's call, ever glad
+to obey his voice. And when the Arab falls from his horse, and is unable
+to rise again, he will stand by him and neigh for assistance; and if he
+lays down to sleep, as fatigue sometimes compels him to do in the midst of
+the desert, his faithful steed will watch over him, and neigh to arouse
+him if man or beast approaches. The Arabs frequently teach their horses
+secret signs or signals, which they make use of on urgent occasions to
+call forth their utmost exertions. These are more efficient than the
+barbarous mode of urging them on with the spur and whip, a forcible
+illustration of which will be found in the following anecdote.
+
+A Bedouin, named Jabal, possessed a mare of great celebrity. Hassad Pacha,
+then Governor of Damascus, wished to buy the animal, and repeatedly made
+the owner the most liberal offers, which Jabal steadily refused. The Pacha
+then had recourse to threats, but with no better success. At length, one
+Gafar, a Bedouin of another tribe, presented himself to the Pacha, and
+asked what he would give the man who should make him master of Jabal's
+mare? "I will fill his horse's nose-bag with gold," replied Hassad. The
+result of this interview having gone abroad; Jabal became more watchful
+than ever, and always secured his mare at night with an iron chain, one
+end of which was fastened to her hind fetlock, whilst the other, after
+passing through the tent cloth, was attached to a picket driven in the
+ground under the felt that served himself and wife for a bed. But one
+midnight, Gafar crept silently into the tent, and succeeded in loosening
+the chain. Just before starting off with his prize, he caught up Jabal's
+lance, and poking him with the butt end, cried out: "I am Gafar! I have
+stolen your noble mare, and will give you notice in time." This warning
+was in accordance with the customs of the Desert; for to rob a hostile
+tribe is considered an honorable exploit, and the man who accomplishes it
+is desirous of all the glory that may flow from the deed. Poor Jabal, when
+he heard the words, rushed out of the tent and gave the alarm, then
+mounting his brother's mare, accompanied by some of his tribe, he pursued
+the robber for four hours. The brother's mare was of the same stock as
+Jabal's but was not equal to her; nevertheless, he outstripped those of
+all the other pursuers, and was even on the point of overtaking the
+robber, when Jabal shouted to him: "Pinch her right ear and give her a
+touch of the heel." Gafar did so, and away went the mare like lightning,
+speedily rendering further pursuit hopeless. The _pinch in the ear_ and
+the _touch with the heel_ were the secret signs by which Jabal had been
+used to urge his mare to her utmost speed. Jabal's companions were amazed
+and indignant at his strange conduct. "O thou father of a jackass!" they
+cried, "thou hast helped the thief to rob thee of thy jewel." But he
+silenced their upbraidings by saying: "I would rather lose her than sully
+her reputation. Would you have me suffer it to be said among the tribes
+that another mare had proved fleeter than mine? I have at least this
+comfort left me, that I can say she never met with her match."
+
+Different countries have their different modes of horsemanship, but
+amongst all of them its first practice was carried on in but a rude and
+indifferent way, being hardly a stepping stone to the comfort and delight
+gained from the use of the horse at the present day. The polished Greeks
+as well as the ruder nations of Northern Africa, for a long while rode
+without either saddle or bridle, guiding their horses, with the voice or
+the hand, or with a light switch with which they touched the animal on the
+side of the face to make him turn in the opposite direction. They urged
+him forward by a touch of the heel, and stopped him by catching him by the
+muzzle. Bridles and bits were at length introduced, but many centuries
+elapsed before anything that could be called a saddle was used. Instead of
+these, cloths, single or padded, and skins of wild beasts, often richly
+adorned, were placed beneath the rider, but always without stirrups; and
+it is given as an extraordinary fact, that the Romans even in the times
+when luxury was carried to excess amongst them, never desired so simple an
+expedient for assisting the horseman to mount, to lessen his fatigue and
+aid him in sitting more securely in his saddle. Ancient sculptors prove
+that the horsemen of almost every country were accustomed to mount their
+horses from the right side of the animal, that they might the better grasp
+the mane, which hangs on that side, a practice universally changed in
+modern times. The ancients generally leaped on their horse's backs, though
+they sometimes carried a spear, with a loop or projection about two feet
+from the bottom which served them as a step. In Greece and Rome, the local
+magistracy were bound to see that blocks for mounting (what the Scotch
+call _loupin_-on-stanes) were placed along the road at convenient
+distances. The great, however, thought it more dignified to mount their
+horses by stepping on the bent backs of their servants or slaves, and many
+who could not command such costly help used to carry a light ladder about
+with them. The first distinct notice that we have of the use of the saddle
+occurs in the edict of the Emperor Theodosias, (A.D. 385) from which we
+also learn that it was usual for those who hired post-horses, to provide
+their own saddle, and that the saddle should not weigh more than sixty
+pounds, a cumbrous contrivance, more like the howdahs placed on the backs
+of elephants than the light and elegant saddle of modern times.
+Side-saddles for ladies are an invention of comparatively recent date. The
+first seen in England was made for Anne of Bohemia, wife of Richard the
+Second, and was probably more like a pillion than the side-saddle of the
+present day. A pillion is a sort of a very low-backed arm-chair, and was
+fastened on the horse's croup, behind the saddle, on which a man rode who
+had all the care of managing the horse, while the lady sat at her ease,
+supporting herself by grasping a belt which he wore, or passing her arm
+around his body, if the _gentleman was not too ticklish_. But the Mexicans
+manage these things with more gallantry than the ancients did. The
+"pisanna," or country lady, we are told is often seen mounted before her
+"cavalera," who take the more natural position of being seated behind his
+fair one, supporting her by throwing his arm around her waist, (a very
+appropriate support if the bent position of the arm does not cause an
+occasional contraction of the muscles.) These two positions may justly be
+considered as the first steps taken by the ladies towards their improved
+and elegant mode of riding at the present day.
+
+At an early period when the diversion of hawking was prevalent, they
+dressed themselves in the costume of the knight, and rode astride. Horses
+were in general use for many centuries before anything like a protection
+for the hoof was thought of, and it was introduced, at first, as a matter
+of course, on a very simple scale. The first foot defense, it is said,
+which was given to the horse, was on the same principle as that worn by
+man, which was a sort of sandal, made of leather and tied to the horse's
+foot, by means of straps or strings. And finally plates of metal were
+fastened to the horse's feet by the same simple means.
+
+Here again, as in the case of the sturrupless saddle, when we reflect that
+men should, for nearly a thousand years, have gone on fastening plates of
+metal under horses' hoofs by the clumsy means of straps and strings,
+without its ever occurring to them to try so simple an improvement as
+nails, we have another remarkable demonstration of the slow steps by which
+horsemanship has reached its present state.
+
+In the forgoing remarks I have taken the liberty of extracting several
+facts from a valuable little work by Rolla Springfield. With this short
+comment on the rise and progress of horsemanship, from its commencement up
+to the present time, I will proceed to give you the principles of a new
+theory of taming wild horses, which is the result of many experiments and
+a thorough investigation and trial of the different methods of
+horsemanship now in use.
+
+
+
+
+THE THREE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES
+OF MY THEORY
+
+
+Founded on the Leading Characteristics of the Horse.
+
+FIRST.--That he is so constituted by nature that he will not offer
+resistance to any demand made of him which he fully comprehends, if made
+in a way consistent with the laws of his nature.
+
+SECOND.--That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his
+experience, and can be handled according to our will, without force.
+
+THIRD.--That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature by which he
+examines all things new to him, take any object, however frightful,
+around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain, without causing him to
+fear.
+
+To take these assertions in order, I will first give you some of the
+reasons why I think he is naturally obedient, and will not offer
+resistance to anything fully comprehended. The horse, though possessed of
+some faculties superior to man's being deficient in reasoning powers, has
+no knowledge of right or wrong, of free will and independent government,
+and knows not of any imposition practiced upon him, however unreasonable
+these impositions may be. Consequently, he cannot come to any decision
+what he should or should not do, because he has not the reasoning
+faculties of man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of him. If he
+had, taking into consideration his superior strength, he would be useless
+to man as a servant. Give him _mind_ in proportion to his strength, and he
+will demand of us the green fields for an inheritance, where he will roam
+at leisure, denying the right of servitude at all. God has wisely formed
+his nature so that it can be operated upon by the knowledge of man
+according to the dictates of his will, and he might well be termed an
+unconscious, submissive servant. This truth we can see verified in every
+day's experience by the abuses practiced upon him. Any one who chooses to
+be so cruel, can mount the noble steed and run him 'till he drops with
+fatigue, or, as is often the case with more spirited, fall dead with the
+rider. If he had the power to reason, would he not vault and pitch his
+rider, rather than suffer him to run him to death? Or would he condescend
+to carry at all the vain imposter, who, with but equal intellect, was
+trying to impose on his equal rights and equally independent spirit? But
+happily for us, he has no consciousness of imposition, no thought of
+disobedience except by impulse caused by the violation of the law of
+nature. Consequently when disobedient it is the fault of man.
+
+Then, we can but come to the conclusion, that if a horse is not taken in a
+way at variance with the law of his nature, he will do anything that he
+fully comprehends without making any offer of resistance.
+
+_Second._ The fact of the horse being unconscious of the amount of his
+strength, can be proven to the satisfaction of any one. For instance, such
+remarks as these are common, and perhaps familiar to your recollection.
+One person says to another, "If that wild horse there was conscious of the
+amount of his strength, his owner could have no business with him in that
+vehicle; such light reins and harness, too; if he knew he could snap them
+asunder in a minute and be as free as the air we breathe;" and, "that
+horse yonder that is pawing and fretting to follow the company that is
+fast leaving him, if he knew his strength he would not remain long
+fastened to that hitching post so much against his will, by a strap that
+would no more resist his powerful weight and strength, than a cotton
+thread would bind a strong man." Yet these facts made common by every day
+occurrence, are not thought of as anything wonderful. Like the ignorant
+man who looks at the different phases of the moon, you look at these
+things as he looks at her different changes, without troubling your mind
+with the question, "Why are these things so?" What would be the condition
+of the world if all our minds lay dormant? If men did not think, reason
+and act, our undisturbed, slumbering intellects would not excel the
+imbecility of the brute; we would live in chaos, hardly aware of our
+existence. And yet with all our activity of mind, we daily pass by
+unobserved that which would be wonderful if philosophised and reasoned
+upon, and with the same inconsistency wonder at that which a little
+consideration, reason and philosophy would be but a simple affair.
+
+_Thirdly._ He will allow any object, however frightful in appearance, to
+come around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain.
+
+We know from a natural course of reasoning, that there has never been an
+effected without a cause, and we infer from this, that there can be no
+action, either in animate or inanimate matter, without there first being
+some cause to produce it. And from this self-evident fact we know that
+there is some cause for every impulse or movement of either mind or
+matter, and that this law governs every action or movement of the animal
+kingdom. Then, according to this theory, there must be some cause before
+fear can exist; and, if fear exists from the effect of imagination, and
+not from the infliction of real pain, it can be removed by complying with
+those laws of nature by which the horse examines an object, and determines
+upon its innocence or harm.
+
+A log or stump by the road-side may be, in the imagination of the horse,
+some great beast about to pounce upon him; but after you take him up to it
+and let him stand by it a little while, and touch it with his nose, and go
+through his process of examination, he will not care any thing more about
+it. And the same principle and process will have the same effect with any
+other object, however frightful in appearance, in which there is no harm.
+Take a boy that has been frightened by a false-face or any other object
+that he could not comprehend at once; but let him take that face or object
+in his hands and examine it, and he will not care anything more about it.
+This is a demonstration of the same principle.
+
+With this introduction to the principles of my theory, I shall next
+attempt to teach you how to put it into practice, and whatever
+instructions may follow, you can rely on as having been proven practical
+by my own experiments. And knowing from experience just what obstacles I
+have met with in handling bad horses, I shall try to anticipate them for
+you, and assist you in surmounting them, by commencing with the first
+steps taken with the colt, and accompanying you through the whole task of
+breaking.
+
+
+HOW TO SUCCEED IN GETTING THE COLT FROM PASTURE.
+
+Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, and at such a
+distance as not to cause them to scare and run. Then approach them very
+slowly, and if they stick up their heads and seem to be frightened, hold
+on until they become quiet, so as not to make them run before you are
+close enough to drive them in the direction you want to go. And when you
+begin to drive, do not flourish your arms or hollow, but gently follow
+them off leaving the direction free for them that you wish them to take.
+Thus taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to get them in
+the pound as easily as the hunter drives the quails into his net. For, if
+they have always run into the pasture uncared for, (as many horses do in
+prairie countries and on large plantations,) there is no reason why they
+should not be as wild as the sportsman's birds and require the same gentle
+treatment, if you want to get them without trouble; for the horse in his
+natural state is as wild as any of the undomesticated animals, though more
+easily tamed than most of them.
+
+
+HOW TO STABLE A COLT WITHOUT TROUBLE.
+
+The next step will be, to get the horse into a stable or shed. This should
+be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion in the
+horse of any danger befalling him. The best way to do this, is to lead a
+gentle horse into the stable first and hitch him, then quietly walk around
+the colt and let him go in of his own accord. It is almost impossible to
+get men, who have never practiced on this principle, to go slow and
+considerate enough about it. They do not know that in handling a wild
+horse, above all other things, is that good old adage true, that "haste
+makes waste;" that is, waste of time, for the gain of trouble and
+perplexity.
+
+One wrong move may frighten your horse, and make him think it is necessary
+to escape at all hazards for the safety of his life, and thus make two
+hours work of a ten minutes job; and this would be all your own fault, and
+entirely unnecessary; for he will not run unless you run after him, and
+that would not be good policy, unless you knew that you could outrun him;
+or you will have to let him stop of his own accord after all. But he will
+not try to break away, unless you attempt to force him into measures. If
+he does not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in,
+do not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside, by
+gently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at
+your side; for you might as well raise a club. The horse has never studied
+anatomy, and does not know but they will unhinge themselves and fly at
+him. It he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run; and if
+he gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he will
+soon find that you are not going to hurt him; and you can soon walk so
+close around him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get
+farther from you. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut the
+door. This will be his first notion of confinement--not knowing how to get
+in such a place, nor how to get out of it. That he may take it as quietly
+as possible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, or
+anything that would annoy him; then give him a few ears of corn, and let
+him remain alone fifteen or twenty minutes, until he has examined his
+apartment, and has become reconciled to his confinement.
+
+
+TIME TO REFLECT.
+
+And now, while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, is the proper
+time to see that your halter is ready and all right, and to reflect on the
+best mode of operations; for, in the horsebreaking, it is highly
+important that you should be governed by some system. And you should know
+before you attempt to do anything, just what you are going to do, and how
+you are going to do it. And, if you are experienced in the art of taming
+wild horses, you ought to be able to tell within a few minutes the length
+of time it would take you to halter the colt, and learn him to lead.
+
+
+THE KIND OF HALTER.
+
+Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that it will
+not draw tight around his nose if he pulls on it. It should be of the
+right size to fit his head easily and nicely; so that the nose band will
+not be too tight or too low. Never put a rope halter on an unbroken colt
+under any circumstances whatever. They have caused more horses to hurt or
+kill themselves, than would pay for twice the cost of all the leather
+halters that have ever been needed for the purpose of haltering colts. It
+is almost impossible to break a colt that is very wild with a rope halter,
+without having him pull, rear and throw himself, and thus endanger his
+life; and I will tell you why. It is just as natural for a horse to try to
+get his head out of anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as it
+would be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire. The cords of the
+rope are hard and cutting; this makes him raise his head and draw on it,
+and as soon as he pulls, the slip noose (the way rope halters are always
+made) tightens, and pinches his nose, and then he will struggle for life,
+until, perchance, he throws himself; and who would have his horse throw
+himself, and run the risk of breaking his neck, rather than pay the price
+of a leather halter. But this is not the worst. A horse that has once
+pulled on his halter, can never be as well broke as one that has never
+pulled at all.
+
+
+REMARKS ON THE HORSE.
+
+But before we attempt to do anything more with the colt, I will give you
+some of the characteristics of his nature, that you may better understand
+his motions. Every one that has ever paid any attention to the horse, has
+noticed his natural inclination to smell of everything which to him looks
+new and frightful. This is their strange mode of examining everything.
+And, when they are frightened at anything, though they look at it sharply,
+they seem to have no confidence in this optical examination alone, but
+must touch it with the nose before they are entirely satisfied; and, as
+soon as this is done, all is right.
+
+
+EXPERIMENTS WITH THE ROBE.
+
+If you want to satisfy yourself of this characteristic of the horse, and
+learn something of importance concerning the peculiarities of his nature,
+etc., turn him into the barn-yard, or a large stable will do, and then
+gather up something that you know will frighten him; a red blanket,
+buffalo robe, or something of that kind. Hold it up so that he can see it;
+he will stick up his head and snort. Then throw it down somewhere in the
+center of the lot or barn, and walk off to one side. Watch his motions,
+and study his nature. If he is frightened at the object, he will not rest
+until he has touched it with his nose. You will see him begin to walk
+around the robe and snort, all the time getting a little closer, as if
+drawn up by some magic spell, until he finally gets within reach of it. He
+will then very cautiously stretch out his neck as far as he can reach,
+merely touching it with his nose, as though he thought it was ready to fly
+at him. But after he has repeated these touches a few times, for the first
+(though he has been looking at it all the time) he seems to have an idea
+what it is. But now he has found, by the sense of feeling, that it is
+nothing that will do him any harm, and he is ready to play with it. And if
+you watch him closely, you will see him take hold of it with his teeth,
+and raise it up and pull at it. And in a few minutes you can see that he
+has not that same wild look about his eye, but stands like a horse biting
+at some familiar stump.
+
+Yet the horse is never well satisfied when he is about anything that has
+frightened him, as when he is standing with his nose to it. And, in nine
+cases out of ten, you will see some of that same wild look about him
+again, as he turns to walk from it. And you will, probably, see him
+looking back very suspiciously as he walks away, as though he thought it
+might come after him yet. And, in all probability, he will have to go back
+and make another examination before he is satisfied. But he will
+familiarize himself with it, and, if he should run in that lot a few days,
+the robe that frightened him so much at first, will be no more to him than
+a familiar stump.
+
+
+SUPPOSITIONS ON THE SENSE OF SMELLING.
+
+We might very naturally suppose, from the fact of the horse's applying his
+nose to every thing new to him, that he always does so for the purpose of
+smelling these objects. But I believe that it is as much or more for the
+purpose of feeling; and that he makes use of his nose or muzzle, (as it is
+sometimes called.) as we would of our hands; because it is the only organ
+by which he can touch or feel anything with much susceptibility.
+
+I believe that he invariably makes use of the four senses, seeing,
+hearing, smelling and feeling, in all of his examinations, of which the
+sense of feeling is, perhaps, the most important. And I think that in the
+experiment with the robe, his gradual approach and final touch with his
+nose was as much for the purpose of feeling, as anything else, his sense
+of smell being so keen, that it would not be necessary for him to touch
+his nose against anything in order to get the proper scent; for it is said
+that a horse can smell a man the distance of a mile. And, if the scent of
+the robe was all that was necessary, he could get that several rods off.
+But, we know from experience, that if a horse sees and smells a robe a
+short distance from him, he is very much frightened, (unless he is used to
+it,) until he touches or feels it with his nose; which is a positive proof
+that feeling is the controlling sense in this case.
+
+
+PREVAILING OPINION OF HORSEMEN.
+
+It is a prevailing opinion among horsemen generally, that the sense of
+smell is the governing sense of the horse. And Faucher, as well as others,
+have, with that view, got up receipts of strong smelling oils, etc., to
+tame the horse, sometimes using the chesnut of his leg, which they dry,
+grind into powder and blow into his nostrils. Sometimes using the oil of
+rhodium, organnnum, etc.; that are noted for their strong smell. And
+sometimes they scent the hands with the sweat from under the arm, or blow
+their breath into his nostrils, etc., etc. All of which, as far as the
+scent goes have no effect whatever in gentling the horse, or conveying any
+idea to his mind; though the works that accompany these efforts--handling
+him, touching him about the nose and head, and patting him, as they direct
+you should, after administering the articles, may have a very great
+effect, which they mistake to be the effect of the ingredients used. And
+Faucher, in his work entitled, "The Arabian art of taming Horses," page
+17, tells us how to accustom a horse to a robe, by administering certain
+articles to his nose; and goes on to say, that these articles must first
+be applied to the horse's nose before you attempt to break him, in order
+to operate successfully.
+
+Now, reader, can you, or any one else, give one single reason how scent
+can convey any idea to the horse's mind of what we want him to do? If not,
+then of course strong scents of any kind are of no account in taming the
+unbroken horse. For every thing that we get him to do of his own accord,
+without force, must be accomplished by some means of conveying our ideas
+to his mind. I say to my horse "go 'long" and he goes; "ho!" and he stops:
+because these two words, of which he has learned the meaning by the tap
+of the whip, and the pull of the rein that first accompanied them, convey
+the two ideas to his mind of go and stop.
+
+Faucher, or no one else, can ever learn the horse a single thing by the
+means of a scent alone.
+
+How long do you suppose a horse would have to stand and smell of a bottle
+of oil before he would learn to bend his knee and make a bow at your
+bidding, "go yonder and bring your hat," or "come here and lay down?" Thus
+you see the absurdity of trying to break or tame the horse by the means of
+receipts for articles to smell of, or medicine to give him, of any kind
+whatever.
+
+The only science that has ever existed in the world, relative to the
+breaking of horses, that has been of any account, is that true method
+which takes them in their native state, and improves their intelligence.
+
+
+POWEL'S SYSTEM OF APPROACHING THE COLT.
+
+But, before we go further, I will give you Willis J. Powel's system of
+approaching a wild colt, as given by him in a work published in Europe,
+about the year 1811, on the "Art of taming wild horses." He says, "A horse
+is gentled by my secret, in from two to sixteen hours." The time I have
+most commonly employed has been from four to six hours. He goes on to say:
+"Cause your horse to be put in a small yard, stable, or room. If in a
+stable or room, it ought to be large in order to give him some exercise
+with the halter before you lead him out. If the horse belong to that class
+which appears only to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into
+the stable, room, or yard, where the horse is. He will naturally run from
+you, and frequently turn his head from you; but you must walk about
+extremely slow and softly, so that he can see you whenever he turns his
+head towards you, which he never fails to do in a short time, say in a
+quarter of an hour. I never knew one to be much longer without turning
+towards me.
+
+"At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your left hand towards
+him, and stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, watching
+his motions if he makes any. If the horse does not stir for ten or fifteen
+minutes, advance as slowly as possible, and without making the least
+noise, always holding out your left hand, without any other ingredient in
+it than that what nature put in it." He says, "I have made use of certain,
+ingredients before people, such as the sweat under my arm, etc., to
+disguise the real secret, and many believed that the docility to which
+the horse arrived in so short a time, was owing to these ingredients; but
+you see from this explanation that they were of no use whatever. The
+implicit faith placed in these ingredients, though innocent of themselves,
+becomes 'faith without works.' And thus men remained always in doubt
+concerning this secret. If the horse makes the least motion when you
+advance toward him, stop, and remain perfectly still until he is quiet.
+Remain a few moments in this condition, and then advance again in the same
+slow and imperceptible manner. Take notice: if the horse stirs, stop
+without changing your position. It is very uncommon for the horse to stir
+more than once after you begin to advance, yet there are exceptions. He
+generally keeps his eyes steadfast on you, until you get near enough to
+touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise slowly,
+and by degrees, your hand, and let it come in contact with that part just
+above the nostrils as lightly as possible. If the horse flinches, (as many
+will,) repeat with great rapidity these light strokes upon the forehead,
+going a little further up towards his ears by degrees, and descending with
+the same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. Now
+let the strokes be repeated with more force over all his forehead,
+descending by lighter strokes to each side of his head, until you can
+handle that part with equal facility. Then touch in the same light manner,
+making your hands and fingers play around the lower part of the horse's
+ears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be looked upon
+as the helm that governs all the rest.
+
+"Having succeeded in handling his ears, advance towards the neck, with the
+same precautions, and in the same manner; observing always to augment the
+force of the strokes whenever the horse will permit it. Perform the same
+on both sides of the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms without
+flinching.
+
+"Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to the back
+of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness return
+immediately to the forehead as the true standard, patting him with your
+hands, and from thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, always
+gaining ground a considerable distance farther on every time this happens.
+The head, ears, neck and body being thus gentled, proceed from the back to
+the root of the tail.
+
+"This must be managed with dexterity, as a horse is never to be depended
+on that is skittish about the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidly
+on that part next to the body a minute or two, and then you will begin to
+give it a slight pull upwards every quarter of a minute. At the same time
+you continue this handling of him, augment the force of the strokes, as
+well as the raising of the tail, until you can raise it and handle it with
+the greatest ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in most
+horses; in others almost immediately, and in some much longer. It now
+remains to handle all his legs. From the tail come back again to the head,
+handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc., speaking now and
+then to the horse. Begin by degrees to descend to the legs, always
+ascending and descending, gaining ground every time you descend until you
+get to his feet.
+
+"Talk to the horse in Latin, Greek, French, English, or Spanish, or in any
+other language you please; but let him hear the sound of your voice, which
+at the beginning of the operation is not quite so necessary, but which I
+have always done in making him lift up his feet. Hold up your foot--'Live
+la pied'--'Alza el pie'--'Aron ton poda,' etc., at the same time lift his
+foot with your hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and will
+hold his foot up at command. Then proceed to the hind feet and go on in
+the same manner, and in a short time the horse will let you lift them and
+even take them up in your arms.
+
+"All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism; it is merely taking
+away the fear a horse generally has of a man, and familiarizing the animal
+with his master; as the horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasure
+from this handling, he will soon become gentle under it, and show a very
+marked attachment to his keeper."
+
+
+REMARKS ON POWEL'S TREATMENT HOW TO GOVERN HORSES OF ANY KIND.
+
+These instructions are very good, but not quite sufficient for horses of
+all kinds, and for haltering and leading the colt; but I have inserted it
+here, because it gives some of the true philosophy of approaching the
+horse, and of establishing confidence between man and horse. He speaks
+only of the kind that fear man.
+
+To those who understand the philosophy of horsemanship, these are the
+easiest trained; for when we have a horse that is wild and lively, we can
+train him to our will in a very short time; for they are generally quick
+to learn, and always ready to obey. But there is another kind that are of
+a stubborn or vicious disposition, and, although they are not wild, and do
+not require taming, in the sense it is generally understood, they are just
+as ignorant as a wild horse, if not more so, and need to be learned just
+as much; and in order to have them obey quickly, it is very necessary that
+they should be made to fear their masters; for, in order to obtain perfect
+obedience from any horse, we must first have him fear us, for our motto is
+_fear, love, and obey_; and we must have the fulfilment of the first two
+before we can expect the latter, and it is by our philosophy of creating
+fear, love and confidence, that we govern to our will every kind of a
+horse whatever.
+
+Then, in order to take horses as we find them, or all kinds, and to train
+them to our likings, we will always take with us, when we go into a stable
+to train a colt, a long switch whip, (whale-bone buggy whips is the best,)
+with a good silk cracker, so as to cut keen and make a sharp report,
+which, if handled with dexterity, and rightly applied, accompanied with a
+sharp, fierce word, will be sufficient to enliven the spirits of any
+horse. With this whip in your right hand, with the lash pointing backward,
+enter the stable alone. It is a great disadvantage in training a horse, to
+have any one in the stable with you; you should be entirely alone, so as
+not to have nothing but yourself to attract his attention. If he is wild
+you will soon see him in the opposite side of the stable from you; and now
+is the time to use a little judgement. I would not want for myself, more
+than half or three-quarters of an hour to handle any kind of a colt, and
+have him running about in the stable after me; though I would advise a new
+beginner to take more time, and not to be in too much of a hurry. If you
+have but one colt to gentle, and are not particular about the length of
+time you spend, and have not had any experience in handling colts, I would
+advise you to take Mr. Powel's method at first, till you gentle him, which
+he says takes from two to six hours. But, as I want to accomplish the
+same, and what is much more, learn the horse to lead in less than one
+hour, I shall give you a much quicker process of accomplishing the same
+end. Accordingly, when you have entered the stable, stand still and let
+your horse look at you a minute or two, and as soon as he is settled in
+one place, approach him slowly, with both arms stationary, your right
+hanging by your side, holding the whip as directed, and the left bent at
+the elbow, with your hand projecting. As you approach him, go not too much
+towards his head or croop, so as not to make him move either forward or
+backward, thus keeping your horse stationary, if he does move a little
+forward or backward, step a little to the right or left very cautiously;
+this will keep him in one place, as you get very near him, draw a little
+to his shoulder, and stop a few seconds. If you are in his reach he will
+turn his head and smell at your hand, not that he has any preference for
+your hand, but because that it is projecting, and is the nearest portion
+of your body to the horse. This all colts will do, and they will smell of
+your naked hand just as quick as they will of any thing that you can put
+in it, and with just as good an effect, however much some men have
+preached the doctrine of taming horses by giving them the scent articles
+from the hand. I have already proved that to be a mistake. As soon as he
+touches his nose to your hand, caress him as before directed, always using
+a very light, soft hand, merely touching the horse, all ways rubbing the
+way the hair lays, so that your hand will pass along as smoothly as
+possible. As you stand by his side you may find it more convenient to rub
+his neck or the side of his head, which will answer the same purpose, as
+rubbing his forehead. Favor every inclination of the horse to smell or
+touch you with his nose. Always follow each touch or communication of this
+kind with the most tender and affectionate caresses, accompanied with a
+kind look, and pleasant word of some sort, such as: Ho! my little boy, ho!
+my little boy, pretty boy, nice lady! or something of that kind,
+constantly repeating the same words, with the same kind, steady tone of
+voice; for the horse soon learns to read the expression of the face and
+voice, and will know as well when fear, love or anger, prevails as you
+know your own feelings; two of which, _fear and anger_, a good horseman
+_should never feel_.
+
+
+HOW TO PROCEED IF YOUR HORSE IS OF A STUBBORN DISPOSITION.
+
+If your horse, instead of being wild, seems to be of a stubborn or
+_mulish_ disposition; if he lays back his ears as you approach him, or
+turns his heels to kick you, he has not that regard or fear of man that he
+should have, to enable you to handle him quickly and easily; and it might
+be well to give him a few sharp cuts with the whip, about the legs, pretty
+close to the body. It will crack keen as it plies around his legs, and the
+crack of the whip will affect him as much as the stroke; besides one sharp
+cut about his legs will affect him more than two or three over his back,
+the skin on the inner part of his legs or about his flank being thinner,
+more tender than on his back. But do not whip him much, just enough to
+scare him, it is not because we want to hurt the horse that we whip him,
+we only do it to scare that bad disposition out of him. But whatever you
+do, do quickly, sharply and with a good deal of fire, but always without
+anger. If you are going to scare him at all you must do it at once. Never
+go into a pitch battle with your horse, and whip him until he is mad and
+will fight you; you had better not touch him at all, for you will
+establish, instead of fear and regard, feelings of resentment, hatred and
+ill-will. It will do him no good but an injury, to strike a blow, unless
+you can scare him; but if you succeed in scaring him, you can whip him
+without making him mad; for fear and anger never exist together in the
+horse, and as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other has
+disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him so that he will stand up
+straight and pay some attention to you, approach him again and caress him
+a good deal more than you whipped him, then you will excite the two
+controlling passions of his nature, love and fear, and then he will fear
+and love you too, and as soon as he learns what to do will quickly obey.
+
+
+HOW TO HALTER AND LEAD THE COLT.
+
+As soon as you have gentled the colt a little, take the halter in your
+left hand and approach him as before, and on the same side that you have
+gentled him. If he is very timid about your approaching closely to him,
+you can get up to him quicker by making the whip a part of your arm, and
+reaching out very gently with the but end of it, rubbing him lightly on
+the neck, all the time getting a little closer, shortening the whip by
+taking it up in your hand, until you finally get close enough to put your
+hands on him. If he is inclined to hold his head from you, put the end of
+the halter strap around his neck, drop your whip, and draw very gently; he
+will let his neck give, and you can pull his head to you. Then take hold
+of that part of the halter, which buckles over the top of his head, and
+pass the long side, or that part which goes into the buckle, under his
+neck, grasping it on the opposite side with your right hand, letting the
+first strap loose--the latter will be sufficient to hold his head to you.
+Lower the halter a little, just enough to get his nose into that part
+which goes around it, then raise it somewhat, and fasten the top buckle,
+and you will have it all right. The first time you halter a colt you
+should stand on the left side, pretty well back to his shoulder only
+taking hold of that part of the halter that goes around his neck, then
+with your hands about his neck you can hold his head to you, and raise the
+halter on it without making him dodge by putting your hands about his
+nose. You should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you have
+the halter on, attach this to it, so that you can let him walk the length
+of the stable without letting go of the strap, or without making him pull
+on the halter, for if you only let him feel the weight of your hand on the
+halter, and give him rope when he runs from you, he will never rear, pull,
+or throw himself, yet you will be holding him all the time, and doing more
+towards gentling him, than if you had the power to snub him right up, and
+hold him to one spot; because, he does not know any thing about his
+strength, and if you don't do any thing to make him pull, he will never
+know that he can. In a few minutes you can begin to control him with the
+halter, then shorten the distance between yourself and the horse, by
+taking up the strap in your hand.
+
+As soon as he will allow you to hold him by a tolerably short strap, and
+step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give him some idea
+about leading. But to do this, do not go before and attempt to pull him
+after you, but commence by pulling him very quietly to one side. He has
+nothing to brace either side of his neck, and will soon yield to a steady,
+gradual pull of the halter; and as soon as you have pulled him a step or
+two to one side, step up to him and caress him, and then pull him again,
+repeating this operation until you can pull him around in every direction,
+and walk about the stable with him, which you can do in a few minutes, for
+he will soon think when you have made him step to the right or left a few
+times, that he is compelled to follow the pull of the halter, not knowing
+that he has the power to resist your pulling; besides, you have handled
+him so gently, that he is not afraid of you, and you always caress him
+when he comes up to you, and he likes that, and would just as leave follow
+you as not. And after he has had a few lessons of that kind, if you turn
+him out in a lot he will come up to you every opportunity he gets. You
+should lead him about in the stable some time before you take him out,
+opening the door, so that he can see out, leading him up to it and back
+again, and past it. See that there is nothing on the outside to make him
+jump, when you take him out, and as you go out with him, try to make him
+go very slowly, catching hold of the halter close to the jaw, with your
+left hand, while the right is resting on the top of the neck, holding to
+his mane. After you are out with him a little while, you can lead him
+about as you please. Don't let any second person come up to you when you
+first take him out; a stranger taking hold of the halter would frighten
+him, and make him run. There should not even be any one standing near him
+to attract his attention, or scare him. If you are alone, and manage him
+right, it will not require any more force to lead or hold him than it
+would to manage a broke horse.
+
+
+HOW TO LEAD A COLT BY THE SIDE OF A BROKEN HORSE.
+
+If you should want to lead your colt by the side of another horse, as is
+often the case, I would advise you to take your horse into the stable,
+attach a second strap to the colt's halter, and lead your horse up
+alongside of him. Then get on the broke horse and take one strap around
+his breast, under his martingale, (if he has any on,) holding it in your
+left hand. This will prevent the colt from getting back too far; besides,
+you will have more power to hold him, with the strap pulling against the
+horse's breast. The other strap take up in your right hand to prevent him
+from running ahead; then turn him about a few times in the stable, and if
+the door is wide enough, ride out with him in that position; if not, take
+the broke horse out first, and stand his breast up against the door, then
+lead the colt to the same spot, and take the straps as before directed,
+one on each side of his neck, then let some one start the colt out, and as
+he comes out, turn your horse to the left, and you will have them all
+right. This is the best way to lead a colt; you can manage any kind of a
+colt in this way, without any trouble; for, if he tries to run ahead, or
+pull back, the two straps will bring the horses facing each other, so that
+you can easily follow up his movements without doing much holding, and as
+soon as he stops running backward you are right with him, and all ready to
+go ahead. And if he gets stubborn and does not want to go, you can remove
+all his stubbornness by riding your horse against his neck, thus
+compelling him to turn to the right, and as soon as you have turned him
+about a few times, he will be willing to go along. The next thing, after
+you are through leading him, will be to take him into a stable, and hitch
+him in such a way as not to have him pull on the halter, and as they are
+often troublesome to get into a stable the first few times, I will give
+you some instructions about getting him in.
+
+
+HOW TO LEAD A COLT INTO THE STABLE AND HITCH HIM WITHOUT HAVING HIM PULL
+ON THE HALTER.
+
+You should lead the broke horse into the stable first, and get the colt,
+if you can, to follow in after him. If he refuses to go, step up to him,
+taking a little stick or switch in your right hand; then take hold of the
+halter close to his head with your left hand, at the same time reaching
+over his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the opposite
+side with your switch; bring him up facing the door, tap him lightly with
+your switch, reaching as far back with it as you can. This tapping, by
+being pretty well back, and on the opposite side, will drive him ahead,
+and keep him close to you, then by giving him the right direction with
+your left hand you can walk into the stable with him. I have walked colts
+into the stable this way, in less than a minute, after men had worked at
+them half an hour, trying to pull them in. If you cannot walk him it at
+once this way, turn him about and walk him round in every direction, until
+you can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then let him stand
+a few minutes, keeping his head in the right direction with the halter,
+and he will walk in, in less than ten minutes. Never attempt to pull the
+colt into the stable; that would make him think at once that it was a
+dangerous place, and if he was not afraid of it before, he would be then.
+Besides we don't want him to know anything about pulling on the halter.
+Colts are often hurt, and sometimes killed, by trying to force them into
+the stable; and those who attempt to do it in that way, go into an up-hill
+business, when a plain smooth road is before them.
+
+If you want to hitch your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall which
+should not be too long, and should be connected by a bar or something of
+that kind to the partition behind it; so that, after the colt is in he
+cannot get far enough back to take a straight, backward pull on the
+halter; then by hitching him in the center of the stall, it would be
+impossible for him to pull on the halter, the partition behind preventing
+him from going back, and the halter in the center checking him every time
+he turns to the left or right. In a state of this kind you can break every
+horse to stand hitched by a light strap, any where, without his ever
+knowing any thing about pulling. But if you have broke your horse to lead,
+and have learned him the use of the halter (which you should always do
+before you hitch him to any thing), you can hitch him in any kind of a
+stall, and give him something to eat to keep him up to his place for a few
+minutes at first and there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on his
+halter.
+
+
+THE KIND OF BIT AND HOW TO ACCUSTOM A HORSE TO IT.
+
+You should use a large, smooth, snaffle bit, so as not to hurt his mouth,
+with a bar to each side, to prevent the bit from pulling through either
+way. This you should attach to the head-stall of your bridle and put it on
+your colt without any reins to it, and let him run loose in a large stable
+or shed, some time, until he becomes a little used to the bit, and will
+bear it without trying to get it out of his mouth. It would be well, if
+convenient, to repeat this several times before you do anything more with
+the colt; as soon as he will bear the bit, attach a single rein to it,
+without any martingale. You should also have a halter on your colt, or a
+bridle made after the fashion of a halter, with a strap to it, so that you
+can hold or lead him about without pulling on the bit much. He is now
+ready for the saddle.
+
+
+HOW TO SADDLE A COLT.
+
+Any one man, who has this theory, can put a saddle on the wildest colt
+that ever grew, without any help, and without scaring him. The first thing
+will be to tie each stirrup strap into a loose knot to make them short,
+and prevent the stirrups from flying about and hitting him. Then double up
+the skirts and take the saddle under your right arm, so as not to frighten
+him with it as you approach. When you get to him, rub him gently a few
+times with your hand, and then raise the saddle very slowly until he can
+see it, and smell, and feel it with his nose. Then let the skirts loose,
+and rub it very gently against his neck the way the hair lays, letting him
+hear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them against him; each time
+getting a little farther backward, and finally slip it over his shoulders
+on his back. Shake it a little with your hand, and in less than five
+minutes you can rattle it about over his back as much as you please, and
+pull it off and throw it on again, without his paying much attention to
+it.
+
+As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten the girth. Be
+careful how you do this. It often frightens a Colt when he feels the girth
+binding him, and making the saddle fit tight on his back. You should bring
+up the girth very gently, and not draw it too tight at first, just enough
+to hold the saddle on. Move him a little, and then girth it as tight as
+you choose, and he will not mind it.
+
+You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right before you put it
+on, and that there is nothing to make it hurt him, or feel unpleasant to
+his back. It should not have any loose straps on the back part of it to
+flap about and scare him. After you have saddled him in this way, take a
+switch in your right hand to tap him up with, and walk about in the stable
+a few times with your right arm over the saddle, taking hold of the reins
+on each side of his neck, with your right and left hands. Thus marching
+him about in the stable until you learn him the use of the bridle, and can
+turn him about in any direction, and stop him by a gentle pull of the
+rein. Always caress him, and loose the reins a little every time you stop
+him.
+
+You should always be alone, and have your colt in some tight stable or
+shed, the first time you ride him; the loft should be high so that you can
+sit on his back without endangering your head. You can learn him more in
+two hours time in a stable of this kind, than you could in two weeks in
+the common way of breaking colts, out in an open place. It you follow my
+course of treatment, you need not run any risk, or have any trouble in
+riding the worst kind of a horse. You take him a step at a time, until you
+get up a mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse. First
+learn him to lead and stand hitched, next acquaint him with the saddle,
+and the use of the bit; and then all that remains, is to get on him
+without scaring him, and you can ride him as well as any horse.
+
+
+HOW TO MOUNT THE COLT.
+
+First gentle him well on both sides, about the saddle, and all over,
+until he will stand still without holding, and is not afraid to see you
+any where about him.
+
+As soon as you have him thus gentled, get a small block, about one foot or
+eighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side of him, about where
+you want to stand to mount him; step up on this, raising yourself very
+gently; horses notice every change of position very closely, and if you
+were to step up suddenly on the block, it would be very apt to scare him;
+but by raising yourself gradually on it, he will see you, without being
+frightened, in a position very near the same as when you are on his back.
+
+As soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup strap next
+to you, and put your left foot into the stirrup, and stand square over it,
+holding your knee against the horse, and your toe out, so as to touch him
+under the shoulder with the toe of your boot. Place your right hand on the
+front of the saddle and on the opposite side of you. Taking hold of a
+portion of the mane and the reins as they hang loosely over his neck with
+your left hand; then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup, and on
+your right hand, until the horse feels your whole weight on the saddle;
+repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a little higher from
+the block, until he will allow you to raise your leg over his croop, and
+place yourself in the saddle.
+
+There are three great advantages in having a block to mount from. First, a
+sudden change of position is very apt to frighten a young horse that has
+never been handled; he will allow you to walk up to him, and stand by his
+side without scaring at you, because you have gentled him to that
+position, but if you get down on your hands and knees and crawl towards
+him, he will be very much frightened, and upon the same principle, he
+would frighten at your new position if you had the power to hold yourself
+over his back without touching him. Then the first great advantage of the
+block is to gradually gentle him to that new position in which he will see
+you when you ride him.
+
+Secondly, by the process of leaning your weight in the stirrups, and on
+your hand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight, so as not to
+frighten him by having him feel it all at once. And in the third place the
+block elevates you so that you will not have to make a spring in order to
+get on to the horse's back, but from it you can gradually raise yourself
+into the saddle. When you take these precautions, there is no horse so
+wild, but what you can mount him without making him jump. I have tried it
+on the worst horses that could be found, and have never failed in any
+case. When mounting, your horse should always stand without being held. A
+horse is never well broke when he has to be held with a tight rein while
+mounting; and a colt is never so safe to mount, as when you see that
+assurance of confidence, and absence of fear, which causes him to stand
+without holding.
+
+
+HOW TO RIDE THE COLT.
+
+When you want him to start do not touch him on the side with your heel or
+do anything to frighten him and make him jump. But speak to him kindly,
+and if he does not start pull him a little to the left until he starts,
+and then let him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk him around in
+the stable a few times until he gets used to the bit, and you can turn him
+about in every direction and stop him as you please. It would be well to
+get on and off a good many times until he gets perfectly used to it before
+you take him out of the stable.
+
+After you have trained him in this way, which should not take you more
+than one or two hours, you can ride him any where you choose without ever
+having him jump or make any effort to throw you.
+
+When you first take him out of the stable be very gentle with him, as he
+will feel a little more at liberty to jump or run, and be a little easier
+frightened than he was while in the stable. But after handling him so much
+in the stable he will be pretty well broke, and you will be able to manage
+him without trouble or danger.
+
+When you first mount him take a little the shortest hold on the left rein,
+so that if any thing frightens him you can prevent him jumping by pulling
+his head around to you. This operation of pulling a horse's head around
+against his side will prevent any horse from jumping ahead, rearing up, or
+running away. If he is stubborn and will not go you can make him move by
+pulling his head around to one side, when whipping would have no effect.
+And turning him around a few times will make him dizzy, and then by
+letting him have his head straight, and giving him a little touch with the
+whip, he will go along without any trouble.
+
+Never use martingales on a colt when you first ride him; every movement of
+the hand should go right to the bit in the direction in which it is
+applied to the reins, without a martingale to change the direct of the
+force applied. You can guide the colt much better without them, and learn
+him the use of the bit in much less time. Besides, martingales would
+prevent you from pulling his head around if he should try to jump.
+
+After your colt has been rode until he is gentle and well accustomed to
+the bit, you may find it an advantage if he carries his head too high, or
+his nose too far out, to put martingales on him.
+
+You should be careful not to ride your colt so far at first as to heat,
+worry or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is a little fatigued;
+gentle him and let him rest, this will make him kind to you and prevent
+him from getting stubborn or mad.
+
+
+THE PROPER WAY TO BIT A COLT.
+
+Farmers often put bitting harness on a colt the first thing they do to
+him, buckling up the bitting as tight as they can draw it to make him
+carry his head high, and then turn him out in a lot to run a half day at a
+time. This is one of the worst punishments that they could inflict on the
+colt, and very injurious to a young horse that has been used to running in
+pasture with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in this way that
+they never got over it.
+
+A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you put on the bitting
+harness, and when you first bit him you should only rein his head up to
+that point where he naturally holds it, let that be high or low; he will
+soon learn that he cannot lower his head, and that raising it a little
+will loosen the bit in his mouth. This will give him the idea of raising
+his head to loosen the bit, and then you can draw the bitting a little
+tighter every time you put it on, and he will still raise his head to
+loosen it; by this means you will gradually get his head and neck in the
+position you want him to carry it, and give him a nice and graceful
+carriage without hurting him, making him mad, or causing his mouth to get
+sore.
+
+If you put the bitting on very tight the first time, he cannot raise his
+head enough to loosen it, but will bear on it all the time, and paw, sweat
+and throw himself. Many horses have been killed by falling backward with
+the bitting on, their heads being drawn up, strike the ground with the
+whole weight of the body. Horses that have their heads drawn up tightly
+should not have the bitting on more than fifteen or twenty minutes at a
+time.
+
+
+HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE THAT IS VERY WILD, AND HAS ANY VICIOUS HABIT
+
+Take up one fore foot and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom upwards,
+and merely touching his body, then slip a loop over his knee, and up until
+it comes above the pasture joint to keep it up, being careful to draw the
+loop together between the hoof and pasture joint with a second strap of
+some kind, to prevent the loop from slipping down and coming off. This
+will leave the horse standing on three legs; you can now handle him as you
+wish, for it is utterly impossible for him to kick in this position.
+There is something in this operation of taking up one foot that conquers a
+horse quicker and better than any thing else you can do to him. There is
+no process in the world equal to it to break a kicking horse, for several
+reasons. First, there is a principle of this kind in the nature of the
+horse; that by conquering one member you conquer to a great extent the
+whole horse.
+
+You have perhaps seen men operate upon this principle by sewing a horse's
+ears together to prevent him from kicking. I once saw a plan given in a
+newspaper to make a bad horse stand to be shod, which was to fasten down
+one ear. There were no reasons given why you should do so; but I tried it
+several times, and thought it had a good effect--though I would not
+recommend its use, especially stitching his ears together. The only
+benefit arising from this process is, that by disarranging his ears we
+draw his attention to them, and he is not so apt to resist the shoeing. By
+tying up one foot we operate on the same principle to a much better
+effect. When you first fasten up a horse's foot he will sometimes get very
+mad, and strike with his knee, and try every possible way to get it down;
+but he cannot do that, and will soon give it up.
+
+This will conquer him better than anything you could do, and without any
+possible danger of hurting himself or you either, for you can tie up his
+foot and sit down and look at him until he gives up. When you find that he
+is conquered, go to him, let down his foot, rub his leg with your hand,
+caress him and let him rest a little, then put it up again. Repeat this a
+few times, always putting up the same foot, and he will soon learn to
+travel on three legs so that you can drive him some distance. As soon as
+he gets a little used to this way of traveling, put on your harness and
+hitch him to a sulky. If he is the worst kicking horse that ever raised a
+foot you need not be fearful of his doing any damage while he has one foot
+up, for he cannot kick, neither can he run fast enough to do any harm. And
+if he is the wildest horse that ever had harness on, and has run away
+every time he has been hitched, you can now hitch him in a sulky and drive
+him as you please. And if he wants to run you can let him have the lines,
+and the whip too, with perfect safety, for he cannot go but a slow gait on
+three legs, and will soon be tired and willing to stop; only hold him
+enough to guide him in the right direction, and he will soon be tired and
+willing to stop at the word. Thus you will effectually cure him at once of
+any further notion of running off. Kicking horses have always been the
+dread of every body; you always hear men say, when they speak about a bad
+horse, "I don't care what he does, so he don't kick." This new method is
+an effectual cure for this worst of all habits. There are plenty of ways
+by which you can hitch a kicking horse and force him to go, though he
+kicks all the time; but this don't have any good effect towards breaking
+him, for we know that horses kick because they are afraid of what is
+behind them, and when they kick against it and it hurts them they will
+only kick the harder, and this will hurt them still more and make them
+remember the scrape much longer, and make it still more difficult to
+persuade them to have any confidence in any thing dragging behind them
+ever after.
+
+But by this new method you can hitch them to a rattling sulky, plow,
+wagon, or anything else in its worst shape. They may be frightened at
+first, but cannot kick or do any thing to hurt themselves, and will soon
+find that you do not intend to hurt them, and then they will not care any
+thing more about it. You can then let down the leg and drive along gently
+without any farther trouble. By this new process a bad kicking horse can
+be learned to go gentle in harness in a few hours' time.
+
+
+ON BALKING.
+
+Horses know nothing about balking, only as they are brought into it by
+improper management, and when a horse balks in harness it is generally
+from some mismanagement, excitement, confusion, or from not knowing how to
+pull, but seldom from any unwillingness to perform all that he
+understands. High spirited, free going horses are the most subject to
+balking, and only so because drivers do not properly understand how to
+manage this kind. A free horse in a team may be so anxious to go that when
+he hears the word he will start with a jump, which will not move the load,
+but give him such a severe jerk on the shoulders that he will fly back and
+stop the other horse; the teamster will continue his driving without any
+cessation, and by the time he has the slow horse started again he will
+find that the free horse has made another jump, and again flew back, and
+now he has them both badly balked, and so confused that neither of them
+knows what is the matter, or how to start the load. Next will come the
+slashing and cracking of the whip, and hallooing of the driver, till
+something is broken or he is through with his course of treatment. But
+what a mistake the driver commits by whipping his horse for this act.
+Reason and common sense should teach him that the horse was willing and
+anxious to go, but did not know how to start the load. And should he whip
+him for that? If so, he should whip him again for not knowing how to talk.
+A man that wants to act with any rationality or reason should not fly into
+a passion, but should always think before he strikes. It takes a steady
+pressure against the collar to move a load, and you cannot expect him to
+act with a steady, determined purpose while you are whipping him. There is
+hardly one balking horse in five hundred that will pull true from
+whipping; it is only adding fuel to fire, and will make them more liable
+to balk another time. You always see horses that have been balked a few
+times, turn their heads and look back, as soon as they are a little
+frustrated. This is because they have been whipped and are afraid of what
+is behind them. This is an invariable rule with balked horses, just as
+much as it is for them to look around at their sides when they have the
+bots; in either case they are deserving of the same sympathy and the same
+kind, rational treatment.
+
+When your horse balks, or is a little excited, if he wants to start
+quickly, or looks around and don't want to go, there is something wrong,
+and needs kind he treatment immediately. Caress him kindly, and if he
+don't understand at once what you want him to do he will not be so much
+excited as to jump and break things, and do everything wrong through fear.
+As long as you are calm and can keep down the excitement of the horse,
+there are ten chances to have him understand you, where there would not be
+one under harsh treatment, and then the little _flare up_ would not carry
+with it any unfavorable recollections, and he would soon forget all about
+it, and learn to pull true. Almost every wrong act the horse commits is
+from mismanagement, fear or excitement; one harsh word will so excite a
+nervous horse as to increase his pulse ten beats in a minute.
+
+When we remember that we are dealing with dumb brutes, and reflect how
+difficult it must be for them to understand our motions, signs and
+language, we should never get out of patience with them because they don't
+understand us, or wonder at their doing things wrong. With all our
+intellect, if we were placed in the horse's situation, it would be
+difficult for us to understand the driving of some foreigner, of foreign
+ways and foreign language. We should always recollect that our ways and
+language are just as foreign and unknown to the horse as any language in
+the world is to us, and should try to practice what we could understand,
+were we the horse, endeavoring by some simple means to work on his
+understanding rather than on the different parts of his body. All balked
+horses can be started true and steady in a few minutes time; they are all
+willing to pull as soon as they know how, and I never yet found a balked
+horse that I could not teach him to start his load in fifteen, and often
+less than three minutes time.
+
+Almost any team, when first balked, will start kindly, if you let them
+stand five or ten minutes, as though there was nothing wrong, and then
+speak to them with a steady voice, and turn them a little to the right or
+left, so as to get them both in motion before they feel the pinch of the
+load. But if you want to start a team that you are not driving yourself,
+that has been balked, fooled and whipped for some time, go to them and
+hang the lines on their hames, or fasten them to the wagon, so that they
+will be perfectly loose; make the driver and spectators (if there is any)
+stand off some distance to one side, so as not to attract the attention of
+the horses; unloose their checkreins, so that they can get their heads
+down, if they choose; let them stand a few minutes in this condition,
+until you can see that they are a little composed. While they are standing
+you should be about their heads, gentling them; it will make them a little
+more kind, and the spectators will think that you are doing something that
+they do not understand, and will not learn the secret. When you have them
+ready to start, stand before them, and as you seldom have but one balky
+horse in a team, get as near in front of him as you can, and if he is too
+fast for the other horse, let his nose come against your breast; this will
+keep him steady, for he will go slow rather than run on you; turn them
+gently to the right, without letting them pull on the traces, as far as
+the tongue will let them go; stop them with a kind word, gentle them a
+little, and then turn them back to the left, by the same process. You will
+have them under your control by this time, and as you turn them again to
+the right, steady them in the collar, and you can take them where you
+please.
+
+There is a quicker process that will generally start a balky horse, but
+not so sure. Stand him a little ahead, so that his shoulders will be
+against the collar, and then take up one of his fore feet in your hand,
+and let the driver start them, and when the weight comes against his
+shoulders, he will try to step; then let him have his foot, and he will go
+right along. If you want to break a horse from balking that has long been
+in that habit, you ought to set apart a half day for that purpose. Put him
+by the side of some steady horse; have check lines on them; tie up all the
+traces and straps, so that there will be nothing to excite them; do not
+rein them up, but let them have their heads loose. Walk them about
+together for some time as slowly and lazily as possible; stop often, and
+go up to your balky horse and gentle him. Do not take any whip about him,
+or do any thing to excite him, but keep him just as quiet as you can. He
+will soon learn to start off at the word, and stop whenever you tell him.
+
+As soon as he performs right, hitch him in an empty wagon; have it stand
+in a favorable position for starting. It would be well to shorten the stay
+chain behind the steady horse, so that if it is necessary he can take the
+weight of the wagon the first time you start them. Do not drive but a few
+rods at first; watch your balky horse closely, and if you see that he is
+getting balky, stop him before he stops of his own accord, caress him a
+little, and start again. As soon as they go well, drive them over a small
+hill a few times, and then over a large one, occasionally adding a little
+load. This process will make any horse true to pull.
+
+
+TO BREAK A HORSE TO HARNESS.
+
+Take him in a tight stable, as you did to ride him; take the harness and
+go through the same process that you did with the saddle, until you get
+him familiar with them, so that you can put them on him and rattle them
+about without his caring for them. As soon as he will bear this, put on
+the lines, caress him as you draw them over him, and drive him about in
+the stable till he will bear them over his hips. The _lines_ are a great
+aggravation to some colts, and often frighten them as much as if you were
+to raise a whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the harness and
+line, take him out and put him by the side of a gentle horse, and go
+through the same process that you did with the balking horse. Always use a
+bridle without blinds when you are breaking a horse to harness.
+
+
+HOW TO HITCH A HORSE IN A SULKY.
+
+Lead him to and around it; let him look at it, touch it with his nose, and
+stand by it till he does not care for it; then pull the shafts a little to
+the left, and stand by your horse in front of the off wheel. Let some one
+stand on the right side of the horse, and hold him by the bit, while you
+stand on the left side, facing the sulky. This will keep him straight. Run
+your left hand back and let it rest on his hip, and lay hold of the shafts
+with your right, bringing them up very gently to the left hand, which
+still remains stationary. Do not let anything but your arm touch his back,
+and as soon as you have the shafts square over him, let the person on the
+opposite side take hold of one of them and lower them very gently on the
+shaft bearers. Be very slow and deliberate about hitching; the longer time
+you take, the better, as a general thing. When you have the shafts placed,
+shake them slightly, so that he will feel them against each side. As soon
+as he will bear them without scaring, fasten your braces, etc., and start
+him along very slowly. Let one man lead the horse to keep him gentle,
+while the other gradually works back with the lines till he can get behind
+and drive him. After you have driven him in this way a short distance, you
+can get into the sulky, and all will go right. It is very important to
+have your horse go gently, when you first hitch him. After you have walked
+him awhile, there is not half so much danger of his scaring. Men do very
+wrong to jump up behind a horse to drive him as soon as they have him
+hitched. There are too many things for him to comprehend all at once. The
+shafts, the lines, the harness, and the rattling of the sulky, all tend to
+scare him, and he must be made familiar with them by degrees. If your
+horse is very wild, I would advise you to put up one foot the first time
+you drive him.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE DOWN.
+
+Every thing that we want to learn the horse must be commenced in some way
+to give him an idea of what you want him to do, and then be repeated till
+he learns it perfectly. To make a horse lie down, bend his left fore leg,
+and slip a loop over it, so that he cannot get it down. Then put a
+circingle around his body, and fasten one end of a long strap around the
+other fore leg, just above the hoof. Place the other end under the
+circingle, so as to keep the strap in the right hand; stand on the left
+side of the horse, grasp the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on the
+strap with your right; bear against his shoulder till you cause him to
+move. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise the other
+foot, and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the strap tight in your
+hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if he raises up. Hold him in
+his position, and turn his head toward you; bear against his side with
+your shoulder, not hard, but with a steady equal pressure, and in about
+ten minutes he will lie down. As soon as he lies down he will be
+completely conquered, and you can handle him as you please. Take off the
+straps, and straighten out his legs; rub him lightly about the face and
+neck with your hand the way the hair lays; handle all his legs, and after
+he has lain ten or twenty minutes, let him get up again. After resting him
+a short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the operation three or
+four times, which will be sufficient for one lesson. Give him two lessons
+a day, and when you have given him four lessons, he will lie down by
+taking hold of one foot. As soon as he is well broken to lie down in this
+way, tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you take hold of his
+foot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere motion of the
+stick.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A HORSE FOLLOW YOU.
+
+Turn him into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance to get out,
+with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him a little, take hold
+of his halter and turn him towards you, at the same time touching him
+lightly over the hips with a long whip. Lead him the length of the stable,
+rubbing him on the neck, saying in a steady tone of voice as you lead him,
+COME ALONG BOY! or use his name instead of boy, if you choose. Every time
+you turn, touch him slightly with the whip, to make him step up close to
+you, and then caress him with your hand. He will soon learn to hurry up to
+escape the whip and be caressed, and you can make him follow you around
+without taking hold of the halter. If he should stop and turn from you,
+give him a few cuts about the hind legs, and he will soon turn his head
+toward you, when you must always caress him. A few lessons of this kind
+will make him run after you, when he sees the motion of the whip--in
+twenty or thirty minutes he will follow you about the stable. After you
+have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out into a
+small lot and train him; and from thence you can take him into the road
+and make him follow you anywhere, and run after you.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A HORSE STAND WITHOUT HOLDING.
+
+After you have him well broken to follow you, stand him in the center of
+the stable--begin at his head to caress him, gradually working backward.
+If he move, give him a cut with the whip and put him back in the same spot
+from which he started. If he stands, caress him as before, and continue
+gentling him in this way until you can get round him without making him
+move. Keep walking around him, increasing your pace, and only touch him
+occasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around and if he then moves,
+give him another cut with the whip and put him back to his place. If he
+stands, go to him frequently and caress him, and then walk around him
+again. Do not keep him in one position too long at a time, but make him
+come to you occasionally and follow you round in the stable. Then stand
+him in another place, and proceed as before. You should not train your
+horse more than half an hour at a time.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE HORSEMAN'S GUIDE
+
+AND
+
+FARRIER.
+
+
+BY JOHN J. STUTZMAN, WEST RUSHVILLE, FAIRFIELD COUNTY, OHIO.
+
+
+I will here insert some of the most efficient cures of diseases to which
+the horse is subject. I have practised them for many years with
+unparalleled success. I have cured horses with the following remedies,
+which, (in many cases,) have been given up in despair, and I never had a
+case in which I did not effect a cure.
+
+
+CURE FOR COLIC.
+
+Take 1 gill of turpentine, 1 gill of opium dissolved in whisky; 1 quart of
+water, milk warm. Drench the horse and move him about slowly. If there is
+no relief in fifteen minutes, take a piece of chalk, about the size of an
+egg, powder it, and put it into a pint of cider vinegar, which should be
+blood warm, give that, and then move him as before.
+
+ANOTHER.--Take 1 ounce laudanum, 1 ounce of ether, 1 ounce of tincture of
+assafoetida, 2 ounces tincture of peppermint, half pint of whisky; put all
+in a quart bottle, shake it well and drench the horse.
+
+
+CURE FOR THE BOTS.
+
+Take 1-1/2 pint of fresh milk, (just from the cow,) 1 pint of molasses.
+Drench the horse and bleed him in the mouth; then give him 1 pint of
+linseed oil to remove them.
+
+
+FOR DISTEMPER.
+
+Take mustard seed ground fine, tar and rye chop, make pills about the size
+of a hen's egg. Give him six pills every six hours, until they physic him;
+then give him one table spoonful of the horse powder mentioned before,
+once a day, until cured. Keep him from cold water for six hours after
+using the powder.
+
+
+LONG FEVER.
+
+In the first place bleed the horse severely. Give him spirits of nitre,
+in water which should not be too cold, for it would chill him. Keep him
+well covered with blankets, and rub his legs and body well; blister him
+around the chest with mustard seed, and be sure to give him no cold water,
+unless there is spirits of nitre in it.
+
+
+RHEUMATIC LINIMENT.
+
+Take croton oil, aqua ammonia, f.f.f; oil of cajuput, oil of origanum, in
+equal parts. Rub well. It is good for spinal diseases and weak back.
+
+
+CUTS AND WOUNDS OF ALL KINDS.
+
+One pint of alcohol, half ounce of gum of myrrh, half ounce aloes, wash
+once a day.
+
+
+SPRAINS AND SWELLINGS.
+
+Take 1-1/2 ounces of harts-horn, 1 ounce camphor, 2 ounces spirits of
+turpentine, 4 ounces sweet oil, 8 ounces alcohol. Anoint twice a day.
+
+
+FOR GLANDERS.
+
+Take of burnt buck's horn a table spoonful, every three days for nine
+days. If there is no relief in that time, continue the powder until there
+is relief.
+
+
+SADDLE OR COLLAR LINIMENT.
+
+One ounce of spirits of turpentine, half ounce of oil of spike, half ounce
+essence of wormwood, half ounce castile soap, half ounce gum camphor, half
+ounce sulphuric ether, half pint alcohol, and wash freely.
+
+
+LINIMENT TO SET THE STIFLE JOINT ON A HORSE.
+
+One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce oil amber. Shake
+it well and rub the joints twice a day until cured, which will be in two
+or three days.
+
+
+EYE WATER.
+
+I have tried the following and found it an efficient remedy. I have tried
+it on my own eyes and those of others. Take bolus muna 1 ounce, white
+vitrol 1 ounce, alum half ounce, with one pint clear rain water: shake it
+well before using. If too strong, weaken it with rain water.
+
+
+LINIMENT FOR WINDGALLS, STRAINS AND GROWTH OF LUMPS ON MAN OR HORSE.
+
+One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce amber, aqua fortis
+and sal amoniac 1 drachm, spirits of salts 1 drachm oil of sassafras half
+ounce, harts-horn half ounce. Bathe once or twice a day.
+
+
+HORSE POWDER.
+
+This powder will cure more diseases than any other medicine known; such as
+Distemper, Fersey, Hidebound, Colds, and all lingering diseases which may
+arise from impurity of the blood or lungs.--Take 1 lb. comfrey root, half
+lb. antimony, half lb. sulphur, 3 oz. of saltpetre, half lb. laurel
+berries, half lb. juniper berries, half lb. angetice seed, half lb. rosin,
+3 oz. alum, half lb. copperas, half lb. master wort, half lb. gun powder.
+Mix all to a powder and give in the most cases, one table spoonful in mash
+feed once a day till cured. Keep the horse dry, and keep him from the cold
+water six hours after using it.
+
+
+FOR CUTS OR WOUNDS ON HORSE OR MAN.
+
+Take fishworms mashed up with old bacon oil, and tie on the wound, which
+is the surest and safest cure.
+
+
+OIL FOR COLLARS.
+
+This oil will also cure bruises, sores, swellings, strains or galls. Take
+fishworms and put them in a crock or other vessel 24 hours, till they
+become clean; then put them in a bottle and throw plenty of salt upon
+them, place them near a stove and they will turn to oil; rub the parts
+affected freely. I have cured knee-sprung horses with this oil frequently.
+
+
+SORE AND SCUMMED EYES ON HORSES.
+
+Take fresh butter or rabbit's fat, honey, and the white of three eggs,
+well stirred up with salt, and black pepper ground to a fine powder; mix
+it well and apply to the eye with a feather. Also rub above the eye (in
+the hollow,) with the salve. Wash freely with cold spring water.
+
+
+FOR A BRUISED EYE.
+
+Take rabbit's fat, and use as above directed. Bathe freely with fresh
+spring water. I have cured many bloodshot eyes with this simple remedy.
+
+
+POLL-EVIL OR FISTULA.
+
+Take of Spanish flies 1 oz., gum euphorbium 3 drachms, tartar emetic 1
+oz., rosin 3 oz.; mix and pulverize, and then mix them with a half lb. of
+lard. Anoint every three days for three weeks; grease the parts affected
+with lard every four days. Wash with soap and water before using the
+salve. In poll-evil, if open, pulverize black bottle glass, put as much in
+each ear as will lay on a dime. The above is recommended in outside
+callous, such as spavin, ringbone, curbs, windgalls, etc. etc.
+
+
+FOR THE FERSEY.
+
+Take 1 quart of sassafras root bark, 1 quart burdock root, spice wood
+broke fine, 1 pint rattle weed root. Boil in 1-1/2 gallons of water; scald
+bran; when cool give it to the horse once a day for 3 or 4 days. Then
+bleed him in the neck and give him the horse powder as directed. In
+extreme cases, I also rowel in the breast and hind legs, to extract the
+corruption and remove the swelling. This is also an efficient remedy for
+blood diseases, etc., etc.
+
+
+TO MAKE THE HAIR GROW ON MAN OR BEAST.
+
+Take milk of sulphur 1/2 drachm, sugar of lead 1/2 drachm, rose water 1/2
+gill, mix and bathe well twice a day for ten days.
+
+
+CHOLERA OR DIARRHEA TINCTURE.
+
+1 oz. of laudanum, 1 oz. of spirits of camphor, 1 oz. spirits of nitre,
+1/2 oz. essence of peppermint, 20 drops of chloroform; put all in a
+bottle, shake well, and take 1/2 teaspoonful in cold water once every six,
+twelve and twenty-four hours, according to the nature of the case.
+
+
+CURE FOR THE HEAVES.
+
+Give 30 grains of tartar emetic every week until cured.
+
+
+PROCESS OF CAUSING A HORSE TO LAY DOWN.
+
+Approach him gently upon the left side, fasten a strap around the ancle of
+his fore-foot; then raise the foot gently, so as to bring the knee against
+the breast and the foot against the belly. The leg being in this position,
+fasten the strap around his arm, which will effectually prevent him from
+putting that foot to the ground again. Then fasten a strap around the
+opposite leg, and bring it over his shoulder, on the left side, so that
+you can catch hold of it; then push these gently, and when he goes to
+fall, pull the strap, which will bring him on his knees.
+
+Now commence patting him under the belly; by continuing your gentle
+strokes upon the belly, you will, in a few minutes, bring him to his knees
+behind. Continue the process, and he will lie entirely down, and submit
+himself wholly to your treatment. By thus proceeding gently, you may
+handle his feet and legs in any way you choose.
+
+However wild and fractious a horse may be naturally, after practicing this
+process a few times, you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive,
+and even disposed to follow you anywhere, and unwilling to leave you on
+any occasion.
+
+Unless the horse be wild, the first treatment will be all sufficient; but
+should he be too fractious to be approached in a manner necessary to
+perform the first named operation, this you will find effectual, and you
+may then train your horse to harness or anything else with the utmost
+ease.
+
+In breaking horses for harness, after giving the powders, put the harness
+on gently, without startling him, and pat him gently, then fasten _the
+chain_ to a log, which he will draw for an indefinite length of time. When
+you find him sufficiently gentle, place him to a wagon or other vehicle.
+
+NOTE.--Be _extremely_ careful in catching a horse, not to affright him.
+After he is caught, and the powders given, rub him gently on the head,
+neck, back and legs, and on each side of the eyes, the way the hair lies,
+but be very careful not to whip, for a young horse is equally passionate
+with yourself, and this pernicious practice has ruined many fine and
+valuable horses. When you are riding a colt (or even an old horse), do not
+whip him if he scares, but draw the bridle, so that his eye may rest upon
+the object which has affrighted him, and pat him upon the neck as you
+approach it; by this means you will pacify him, and render him less liable
+to start in future.
+
+
+MEANS OF LEARNING A HORSE TO PACE.
+
+Buckle a four pound weight around the ancles of his hind legs, (lead is
+preferable) ride your horse briskly with those weights upon his ancles, at
+the same time, twitching each rein of the bridle alternately, by this
+means you will immediately throw him into a pace. After you have trained
+him in this way to some extent, change your leaded weights for something
+lighter; leather padding, or something equal to it, will answer the
+purpose; let him wear these light weights until he is perfectly trained.
+This process will make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse.
+
+
+HORSEMANSHIP.
+
+The rider should, in the first place, let the horse know that he is not
+afraid of him. Before mounting a horse, take the rein into the left hand,
+draw it tightly, put the left foot in the stirrup, and raise quickly. When
+you are seated press your knees to the saddle, let your leg, from the
+knee, stand out; turn your toe in and heel out; sit upright in your
+saddle, throw your weight forward--one third of it in the stirrups--and
+hold your rein tight. Should your horse scare, you are braced in your
+saddle and he cannot throw you.
+
+
+INDICATION OF A HORSE'S DISPOSITION.
+
+A long, thin neck indicates a good disposition, contrariwise, if it be
+short and thick. A broad forehead, high between the ears, indicates a very
+vicious disposition.
+
+
+CURES, &C.
+
+_Cure for the Founder._--Let 1-1/2 gallons of blood from the neck vein,
+make frequent applications of hot water to his forelegs; after which,
+bathe them in wet cloths, then give one quart Linseed Oil. The horse will
+be ready for service the next day.
+
+_Botts._--Mix one pint honey with one quart sweet milk, give as a drench,
+one hour after, dissolve 1 oz. pulverized Coperas in a pint of water, use
+likewise, then give one quart of Linseed Oil. Cure effectual.
+
+_Colic._--After bleeding copiously in the mouth, take a half pound of raw
+cotton, wrap it around a coal of fire in such a way as to exclude the air;
+when it begins to smoke, hold it under the horse's nose until he becomes
+easy. Cure certain in ten minutes.
+
+_Distemper._--Take 1-1/2 gallons blood from the neck vein, then give a
+dose of Sassafras Oil, 1-1/2 ounces is sufficient. Cure speedy and
+certain.
+
+_Fistula._--When it makes its appearance, rowel both sides of the
+shoulder; if it should break, take one ounce of verdigris, 1 ounce oil
+rosin, 1 ounce copperas, pulverize and mix together. Use it as a salve.
+
+
+RECEIPT FOR BONE SPAVIN OR RING-BONE.
+
+Take a table-spoonful of corrosive sublimate; quicksilver about the size
+of a bean; 3 or 4 drops of muriatic acid; iodine about the size of a pea,
+and lard enough to form a paste; grind the iodine and sublimate fine as
+flour, and put altogether in a cup, mix well, then shear the hair all off
+the size you want; wash clean with soap-suds, rub dry, then apply the
+medicine. Let it stay on five days; if it does not take effect, take it
+off, mix it over with a little more lard, and add some fresh medicine.
+When the lump comes out, wash it clean in soap-suds, then apply a poultice
+of cow dung, leave it on twelve hours, then apply healing medicine.
+
+
+TEMPERANCE BEVERAGE.
+
+One quart of water, three pounds of sugar, one teaspoonful of lemon oil,
+one table-spoonful of flour, with the white of four eggs, well beat up.
+Mix the above well together, then divide the syrup, and add four ounces of
+carbonic soda in one-half, and three ounces of tartaric acid in the other
+half; then bottle for use.
+
+
+SARSAPARILLA SYRUP.
+
+One ounce Sarsaparilla, two pounds brown sugar, ten drops wintergreen, and
+half pint of water.
+
+
+
+
+
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+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Arabian Art of Taming and Training
+Wild and Vicious Horses, by P. R. Kincaid
+John J. Stutzman
+
+*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14776 ***
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+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14776 ***</div>
+
+<h1>THE ARABIAN ART</h1>
+<div style='height: 1pc;'><br /></div>
+<h2>OF</h2>
+<div style='height: 1pc;'><br /></div>
+<h1>TAMING AND TRAINING</h1>
+<div style='height: 1pc;'><br /></div>
+<h1>WILD &amp; VICIOUS HORSES.</h1>
+<div style='height: 2pc;'><br /></div>
+<h3>BY</h3>
+<div style='height: 2pc;'><br /></div>
+<h2>T. GILBERT, BRO. RAMSEY &amp; CO.</h2>
+
+
+
+<div style='height: 2pc;'><br /></div>
+
+<p class='frontmatter'>PRINTED AND SOLD FOR THE PUBLISHER BY<br />
+
+HENRY WATKINS<br />
+
+PRINTER, 225 &amp; 227 WEST FIFTH STREET, CINCINNATI, OHIO <br />
+1856.<br /></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION" />INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+<p>The first domestication of the horse, one of the greatest achievements of
+man in the animal kingdom, was not the work of a day; but like all other
+great accomplishments, was brought about by a gradual process of
+discoveries and experiments. He first subdued the more subordinate
+animals, on account of their being easily caught and tamed, and used for
+many years the mere drudges, the ox, the ass, and the camel, instead of
+the fleet and elegant horse. This noble animal was the last brought into
+subjection, owing, perhaps, to man's limited and inaccurate knowledge of
+his nature, and his consequent inability to control him. This fact alone
+is sufficient evidence of his superiority over all other animals.</p>
+
+<p>Man, in all his inventions and discoveries, has almost invariably
+commenced with some simple principle, and gradually developed it from one
+degree of perfection to another. The first hint that we have of the use of
+electricity was Franklin's drawing it from the clouds with his kite. Now
+it is the instrument of conveying thought from mind to mind, with a
+rapidity that surpasses time. The great propelling power that drives the
+wheel of the engine over our land, and ploughs the ocean with our
+steamers, was first discovered escaping from a tea-kettle. And so the
+powers of the horse, second only to the powers of steam, became known to
+man only as experiments, and investigation revealed them.</p>
+
+<p>The horse, according to the best accounts we can gather, has been the
+constant servant of man for nearly four thousand years, ever rewarding him
+with his labor and adding to his comfort in proportion to his skill and
+manner of using him; but being to those who govern him by brute force, and
+know nothing of the beauty and delight to be gained from the cultivation
+of his finer nature, a fretful, vicious, and often dangerous servant;
+whilst to the Arabs, whose horse is the pride of his life, and who governs
+him by the law of kindness, we find him to be quite a different animal.
+The manner in which he is treated from a foal gives him an affection and
+attachment for his master not known in any other country. The Arab and his
+children, the mare and her foal, inhabit the tent together; and although
+the foal and the mare's neck are often pillows for the children to roll
+upon, no accident ever occurs, the mare being as careful of the children
+as of the colt. Such is the mutual attachment between the horse and his
+master, that he will leave his companions at his master's call, ever glad
+to obey his voice. And when the Arab falls from his horse, and is unable
+to rise again, he will stand by him and neigh for assistance; and if he
+lays down to sleep, as fatigue sometimes compels him to do in the midst of
+the desert, his faithful steed will watch over him, and neigh to arouse
+him if man or beast approaches. The Arabs frequently teach their horses
+secret signs or signals, which they make use of on urgent occasions to
+call forth their utmost exertions. These are more efficient than the
+barbarous mode of urging them on with the spur and whip, a forcible
+illustration of which will be found in the following anecdote.</p>
+
+<p>A Bedouin, named Jabal, possessed a mare of great celebrity. Hassad Pacha,
+then Governor of Damascus, wished to buy the animal, and repeatedly made
+the owner the most liberal offers, which Jabal steadily refused. The Pacha
+then had recourse to threats, but with no better success. At length, one
+Gafar, a Bedouin of another tribe, presented himself to the Pacha, and
+asked what he would give the man who should make him master of Jabal's
+mare? &quot;I will fill his horse's nose-bag with gold,&quot; replied Hassad. The
+result of this interview having gone abroad; Jabal became more watchful
+than ever, and always secured his mare at night with an iron chain, one
+end of which was fastened to her hind fetlock, whilst the other, after
+passing through the tent cloth, was attached to a picket driven in the
+ground under the felt that served himself and wife for a bed. But one
+midnight, Gafar crept silently into the tent, and succeeded in loosening
+the chain. Just before starting off with his prize, he caught up Jabal's
+lance, and poking him with the butt end, cried out: &quot;I am Gafar! I have
+stolen your noble mare, and will give you notice in time.&quot; This warning
+was in accordance with the customs of the Desert; for to rob a hostile
+tribe is considered an honorable exploit, and the man who accomplishes it
+is desirous of all the glory that may flow from the deed. Poor Jabal, when
+he heard the words, rushed out of the tent and gave the alarm, then
+mounting his brother's mare, accompanied by some of his tribe, he pursued
+the robber for four hours. The brother's mare was of the same stock as
+Jabal's but was not equal to her; nevertheless, he outstripped those of
+all the other pursuers, and was even on the point of overtaking the
+robber, when Jabal shouted to him: &quot;Pinch her right ear and give her a
+touch of the heel.&quot; Gafar did so, and away went the mare like lightning,
+speedily rendering further pursuit hopeless. The <i>pinch in the ear</i> and
+the <i>touch with the heel</i> were the secret signs by which Jabal had been
+used to urge his mare to her utmost speed. Jabal's companions were amazed
+and indignant at his strange conduct. &quot;O thou father of a jackass!&quot; they
+cried, &quot;thou hast helped the thief to rob thee of thy jewel.&quot; But he
+silenced their upbraidings by saying: &quot;I would rather lose her than sully
+her reputation. Would you have me suffer it to be said among the tribes
+that another mare had proved fleeter than mine? I have at least this
+comfort left me, that I can say she never met with her match.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Different countries have their different modes of horsemanship, but
+amongst all of them its first practice was carried on in but a rude and
+indifferent way, being hardly a stepping stone to the comfort and delight
+gained from the use of the horse at the present day. The polished Greeks
+as well as the ruder nations of Northern Africa, for a long while rode
+without either saddle or bridle, guiding their horses, with the voice or
+the hand, or with a light switch with which they touched the animal on the
+side of the face to make him turn in the opposite direction. They urged
+him forward by a touch of the heel, and stopped him by catching him by the
+muzzle. Bridles and bits were at length introduced, but many centuries
+elapsed before anything that could be called a saddle was used. Instead of
+these, cloths, single or padded, and skins of wild beasts, often richly
+adorned, were placed beneath the rider, but always without stirrups; and
+it is given as an extraordinary fact, that the Romans even in the times
+when luxury was carried to excess amongst them, never desired so simple an
+expedient for assisting the horseman to mount, to lessen his fatigue and
+aid him in sitting more securely in his saddle. Ancient sculptors prove
+that the horsemen of almost every country were accustomed to mount their
+horses from the right side of the animal, that they might the better grasp
+the mane, which hangs on that side, a practice universally changed in
+modern times. The ancients generally leaped on their horse's backs, though
+they sometimes carried a spear, with a loop or projection about two feet
+from the bottom which served them as a step. In Greece and Rome, the local
+magistracy were bound to see that blocks for mounting (what the Scotch
+call <i>loupin</i>-on-stanes) were placed along the road at convenient
+distances. The great, however, thought it more dignified to mount their
+horses by stepping on the bent backs of their servants or slaves, and many
+who could not command such costly help used to carry a light ladder about
+with them. The first distinct notice that we have of the use of the saddle
+occurs in the edict of the Emperor Theodosias, (A.D. 385) from which we
+also learn that it was usual for those who hired post-horses, to provide
+their own saddle, and that the saddle should not weigh more than sixty
+pounds, a cumbrous contrivance, more like the howdahs placed on the backs
+of elephants than the light and elegant saddle of modern times.
+Side-saddles for ladies are an invention of comparatively recent date. The
+first seen in England was made for Anne of Bohemia, wife of Richard the
+Second, and was probably more like a pillion than the side-saddle of the
+present day. A pillion is a sort of a very low-backed arm-chair, and was
+fastened on the horse's croup, behind the saddle, on which a man rode who
+had all the care of managing the horse, while the lady sat at her ease,
+supporting herself by grasping a belt which he wore, or passing her arm
+around his body, if the <i>gentleman was not too ticklish</i>. But the Mexicans
+manage these things with more gallantry than the ancients did. The
+&quot;pisanna,&quot; or country lady, we are told is often seen mounted before her
+&quot;cavalera,&quot; who take the more natural position of being seated behind his
+fair one, supporting her by throwing his arm around her waist, (a very
+appropriate support if the bent position of the arm does not cause an
+occasional contraction of the muscles.) These two positions may justly be
+considered as the first steps taken by the ladies towards their improved
+and elegant mode of riding at the present day.</p>
+
+<p>At an early period when the diversion of hawking was prevalent, they
+dressed themselves in the costume of the knight, and rode astride. Horses
+were in general use for many centuries before anything like a protection
+for the hoof was thought of, and it was introduced, at first, as a matter
+of course, on a very simple scale. The first foot defense, it is said,
+which was given to the horse, was on the same principle as that worn by
+man, which was a sort of sandal, made of leather and tied to the horse's
+foot, by means of straps or strings. And finally plates of metal were
+fastened to the horse's feet by the same simple means.</p>
+
+<p>Here again, as in the case of the sturrupless saddle, when we reflect that
+men should, for nearly a thousand years, have gone on fastening plates of
+metal under horses' hoofs by the clumsy means of straps and strings,
+without its ever occurring to them to try so simple an improvement as
+nails, we have another remarkable demonstration of the slow steps by which
+horsemanship has reached its present state.</p>
+
+<p>In the forgoing remarks I have taken the liberty of extracting several
+facts from a valuable little work by Rolla Springfield. With this short
+comment on the rise and progress of horsemanship, from its commencement up
+to the present time, I will proceed to give you the principles of a new
+theory of taming wild horses, which is the result of many experiments and
+a thorough investigation and trial of the different methods of
+horsemanship now in use.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_THREE_FUNDAMENTAL_PRINCIPLES" id="THE_THREE_FUNDAMENTAL_PRINCIPLES" />THE THREE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES
+OF MY THEORY</h2>
+
+<h3>Founded on the Leading Characteristics of the Horse.</h3>
+
+
+<p>FIRST.&mdash;That he is so constituted by nature that he will not offer
+resistance to any demand made of him which he fully comprehends, if made
+in a way consistent with the laws of his nature.</p>
+
+<p>SECOND.&mdash;That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his
+experience, and can be handled according to our will, without force.</p>
+
+<p>THIRD.&mdash;That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature by which he
+examines all things new to him, take any object, however frightful,
+around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain, without causing him to
+fear.</p>
+
+<p>To take these assertions in order, I will first give you some of the
+reasons why I think he is naturally obedient, and will not offer
+resistance to anything fully comprehended. The horse, though possessed of
+some faculties superior to man's being deficient in reasoning powers, has
+no knowledge of right or wrong, of free will and independent government,
+and knows not of any imposition practiced upon him, however unreasonable
+these impositions may be. Consequently, he cannot come to any decision
+what he should or should not do, because he has not the reasoning
+faculties of man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of him. If he
+had, taking into consideration his superior strength, he would be useless
+to man as a servant. Give him <i>mind</i> in proportion to his strength, and he
+will demand of us the green fields for an inheritance, where he will roam
+at leisure, denying the right of servitude at all. God has wisely formed
+his nature so that it can be operated upon by the knowledge of man
+according to the dictates of his will, and he might well be termed an
+unconscious, submissive servant. This truth we can see verified in every
+day's experience by the abuses practiced upon him. Any one who chooses to
+be so cruel, can mount the noble steed and run him 'till he drops with
+fatigue, or, as is often the case with more spirited, fall dead with the
+rider. If he had the power to reason, would he not vault and pitch his
+rider, rather than suffer him to run him to death? Or would he condescend
+to carry at all the vain imposter, who, with but equal intellect, was
+trying to impose on his equal rights and equally independent spirit? But
+happily for us, he has no consciousness of imposition, no thought of
+disobedience except by impulse caused by the violation of the law of
+nature. Consequently when disobedient it is the fault of man.</p>
+
+<p>Then, we can but come to the conclusion, that if a horse is not taken in a
+way at variance with the law of his nature, he will do anything that he
+fully comprehends without making any offer of resistance.</p>
+
+<p><i>Second.</i> The fact of the horse being unconscious of the amount of his
+strength, can be proven to the satisfaction of any one. For instance, such
+remarks as these are common, and perhaps familiar to your recollection.
+One person says to another, &quot;If that wild horse there was conscious of the
+amount of his strength, his owner could have no business with him in that
+vehicle; such light reins and harness, too; if he knew he could snap them
+asunder in a minute and be as free as the air we breathe;&quot; and, &quot;that
+horse yonder that is pawing and fretting to follow the company that is
+fast leaving him, if he knew his strength he would not remain long
+fastened to that hitching post so much against his will, by a strap that
+would no more resist his powerful weight and strength, than a cotton
+thread would bind a strong man.&quot; Yet these facts made common by every day
+occurrence, are not thought of as anything wonderful. Like the ignorant
+man who looks at the different phases of the moon, you look at these
+things as he looks at her different changes, without troubling your mind
+with the question, &quot;Why are these things so?&quot; What would be the condition
+of the world if all our minds lay dormant? If men did not think, reason
+and act, our undisturbed, slumbering intellects would not excel the
+imbecility of the brute; we would live in chaos, hardly aware of our
+existence. And yet with all our activity of mind, we daily pass by
+unobserved that which would be wonderful if philosophised and reasoned
+upon, and with the same inconsistency wonder at that which a little
+consideration, reason and philosophy would be but a simple affair.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thirdly.</i> He will allow any object, however frightful in appearance, to
+come around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain.</p>
+
+<p>We know from a natural course of reasoning, that there has never been an
+effected without a cause, and we infer from this, that there can be no
+action, either in animate or inanimate matter, without there first being
+some cause to produce it. And from this self-evident fact we know that
+there is some cause for every impulse or movement of either mind or
+matter, and that this law governs every action or movement of the animal
+kingdom. Then, according to this theory, there must be some cause before
+fear can exist; and, if fear exists from the effect of imagination, and
+not from the infliction of real pain, it can be removed by complying with
+those laws of nature by which the horse examines an object, and determines
+upon its innocence or harm.</p>
+
+<p>A log or stump by the road-side may be, in the imagination of the horse,
+some great beast about to pounce upon him; but after you take him up to it
+and let him stand by it a little while, and touch it with his nose, and go
+through his process of examination, he will not care any thing more about
+it. And the same principle and process will have the same effect with any
+other object, however frightful in appearance, in which there is no harm.
+Take a boy that has been frightened by a false-face or any other object
+that he could not comprehend at once; but let him take that face or object
+in his hands and examine it, and he will not care anything more about it.
+This is a demonstration of the same principle.</p>
+
+<p>With this introduction to the principles of my theory, I shall next
+attempt to teach you how to put it into practice, and whatever
+instructions may follow, you can rely on as having been proven practical
+by my own experiments. And knowing from experience just what obstacles I
+have met with in handling bad horses, I shall try to anticipate them for
+you, and assist you in surmounting them, by commencing with the first
+steps taken with the colt, and accompanying you through the whole task of
+breaking.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Succeed in Getting the Colt from Pasture.</h4>
+
+<p>Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, and at such a
+distance as not to cause them to scare and run. Then approach them very
+slowly, and if they stick up their heads and seem to be frightened, hold
+on until they become quiet, so as not to make them run before you are
+close enough to drive them in the direction you want to go. And when you
+begin to drive, do not flourish your arms or hollow, but gently follow
+them off leaving the direction free for them that you wish them to take.
+Thus taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to get them in
+the pound as easily as the hunter drives the quails into his net. For, if
+they have always run into the pasture uncared for, (as many horses do in
+prairie countries and on large plantations,) there is no reason why they
+should not be as wild as the sportsman's birds and require the same gentle
+treatment, if you want to get them without trouble; for the horse in his
+natural state is as wild as any of the undomesticated animals, though more
+easily tamed than most of them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Stable a Colt without Trouble.</h4>
+
+<p>The next step will be, to get the horse into a stable or shed. This should
+be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion in the
+horse of any danger befalling him. The best way to do this, is to lead a
+gentle horse into the stable first and hitch him, then quietly walk around
+the colt and let him go in of his own accord. It is almost impossible to
+get men, who have never practiced on this principle, to go slow and
+considerate enough about it. They do not know that in handling a wild
+horse, above all other things, is that good old adage true, that &quot;haste
+makes waste;&quot; that is, waste of time, for the gain of trouble and
+perplexity.</p>
+
+<p>One wrong move may frighten your horse, and make him think it is necessary
+to escape at all hazards for the safety of his life, and thus make two
+hours work of a ten minutes job; and this would be all your own fault, and
+entirely unnecessary; for he will not run unless you run after him, and
+that would not be good policy, unless you knew that you could outrun him;
+or you will have to let him stop of his own accord after all. But he will
+not try to break away, unless you attempt to force him into measures. If
+he does not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in,
+do not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside, by
+gently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at
+your side; for you might as well raise a club. The horse has never studied
+anatomy, and does not know but they will unhinge themselves and fly at
+him. It he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run; and if
+he gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he will
+soon find that you are not going to hurt him; and you can soon walk so
+close around him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get
+farther from you. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut the
+door. This will be his first notion of confinement&mdash;not knowing how to get
+in such a place, nor how to get out of it. That he may take it as quietly
+as possible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, or
+anything that would annoy him; then give him a few ears of corn, and let
+him remain alone fifteen or twenty minutes, until he has examined his
+apartment, and has become reconciled to his confinement.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Time to Reflect.</h4>
+
+<p>And now, while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, is the proper
+time to see that your halter is ready and all right, and to reflect on the
+best mode of operations; for, in the horsebreaking, it is highly
+important that you should be governed by some system. And you should know
+before you attempt to do anything, just what you are going to do, and how
+you are going to do it. And, if you are experienced in the art of taming
+wild horses, you ought to be able to tell within a few minutes the length
+of time it would take you to halter the colt, and learn him to lead.</p>
+
+
+<h4>The kind of Halter.</h4>
+
+<p>Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that it will
+not draw tight around his nose if he pulls on it. It should be of the
+right size to fit his head easily and nicely; so that the nose band will
+not be too tight or too low. Never put a rope halter on an unbroken colt
+under any circumstances whatever. They have caused more horses to hurt or
+kill themselves, than would pay for twice the cost of all the leather
+halters that have ever been needed for the purpose of haltering colts. It
+is almost impossible to break a colt that is very wild with a rope halter,
+without having him pull, rear and throw himself, and thus endanger his
+life; and I will tell you why. It is just as natural for a horse to try to
+get his head out of anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as it
+would be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire. The cords of the
+rope are hard and cutting; this makes him raise his head and draw on it,
+and as soon as he pulls, the slip noose (the way rope halters are always
+made) tightens, and pinches his nose, and then he will struggle for life,
+until, perchance, he throws himself; and who would have his horse throw
+himself, and run the risk of breaking his neck, rather than pay the price
+of a leather halter. But this is not the worst. A horse that has once
+pulled on his halter, can never be as well broke as one that has never
+pulled at all.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Remarks on the Horse.</h4>
+
+<p>But before we attempt to do anything more with the colt, I will give you
+some of the characteristics of his nature, that you may better understand
+his motions. Every one that has ever paid any attention to the horse, has
+noticed his natural inclination to smell of everything which to him looks
+new and frightful. This is their strange mode of examining everything.
+And, when they are frightened at anything, though they look at it sharply,
+they seem to have no confidence in this optical examination alone, but
+must touch it with the nose before they are entirely satisfied; and, as
+soon as this is done, all is right.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Experiments with the Robe.</h4>
+
+<p>If you want to satisfy yourself of this characteristic of the horse, and
+learn something of importance concerning the peculiarities of his nature,
+etc., turn him into the barn-yard, or a large stable will do, and then
+gather up something that you know will frighten him; a red blanket,
+buffalo robe, or something of that kind. Hold it up so that he can see it;
+he will stick up his head and snort. Then throw it down somewhere in the
+center of the lot or barn, and walk off to one side. Watch his motions,
+and study his nature. If he is frightened at the object, he will not rest
+until he has touched it with his nose. You will see him begin to walk
+around the robe and snort, all the time getting a little closer, as if
+drawn up by some magic spell, until he finally gets within reach of it. He
+will then very cautiously stretch out his neck as far as he can reach,
+merely touching it with his nose, as though he thought it was ready to fly
+at him. But after he has repeated these touches a few times, for the first
+(though he has been looking at it all the time) he seems to have an idea
+what it is. But now he has found, by the sense of feeling, that it is
+nothing that will do him any harm, and he is ready to play with it. And if
+you watch him closely, you will see him take hold of it with his teeth,
+and raise it up and pull at it. And in a few minutes you can see that he
+has not that same wild look about his eye, but stands like a horse biting
+at some familiar stump.</p>
+
+<p>Yet the horse is never well satisfied when he is about anything that has
+frightened him, as when he is standing with his nose to it. And, in nine
+cases out of ten, you will see some of that same wild look about him
+again, as he turns to walk from it. And you will, probably, see him
+looking back very suspiciously as he walks away, as though he thought it
+might come after him yet. And, in all probability, he will have to go back
+and make another examination before he is satisfied. But he will
+familiarize himself with it, and, if he should run in that lot a few days,
+the robe that frightened him so much at first, will be no more to him than
+a familiar stump.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Suppositions on the Sense of Smelling.</h4>
+
+<p>We might very naturally suppose, from the fact of the horse's applying his
+nose to every thing new to him, that he always does so for the purpose of
+smelling these objects. But I believe that it is as much or more for the
+purpose of feeling; and that he makes use of his nose or muzzle, (as it is
+sometimes called.) as we would of our hands; because it is the only organ
+by which he can touch or feel anything with much susceptibility.</p>
+
+<p>I believe that he invariably makes use of the four senses, seeing,
+hearing, smelling and feeling, in all of his examinations, of which the
+sense of feeling is, perhaps, the most important. And I think that in the
+experiment with the robe, his gradual approach and final touch with his
+nose was as much for the purpose of feeling, as anything else, his sense
+of smell being so keen, that it would not be necessary for him to touch
+his nose against anything in order to get the proper scent; for it is said
+that a horse can smell a man the distance of a mile. And, if the scent of
+the robe was all that was necessary, he could get that several rods off.
+But, we know from experience, that if a horse sees and smells a robe a
+short distance from him, he is very much frightened, (unless he is used to
+it,) until he touches or feels it with his nose; which is a positive proof
+that feeling is the controlling sense in this case.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Prevailing Opinion of Horsemen.</h4>
+
+<p>It is a prevailing opinion among horsemen generally, that the sense of
+smell is the governing sense of the horse. And Faucher, as well as others,
+have, with that view, got up receipts of strong smelling oils, etc., to
+tame the horse, sometimes using the chesnut of his leg, which they dry,
+grind into powder and blow into his nostrils. Sometimes using the oil of
+rhodium, organnnum, etc.; that are noted for their strong smell. And
+sometimes they scent the hands with the sweat from under the arm, or blow
+their breath into his nostrils, etc., etc. All of which, as far as the
+scent goes have no effect whatever in gentling the horse, or conveying any
+idea to his mind; though the works that accompany these efforts&mdash;handling
+him, touching him about the nose and head, and patting him, as they direct
+you should, after administering the articles, may have a very great
+effect, which they mistake to be the effect of the ingredients used. And
+Faucher, in his work entitled, &quot;The Arabian art of taming Horses,&quot; page
+17, tells us how to accustom a horse to a robe, by administering certain
+articles to his nose; and goes on to say, that these articles must first
+be applied to the horse's nose before you attempt to break him, in order
+to operate successfully.</p>
+
+<p>Now, reader, can you, or any one else, give one single reason how scent
+can convey any idea to the horse's mind of what we want him to do? If not,
+then of course strong scents of any kind are of no account in taming the
+unbroken horse. For every thing that we get him to do of his own accord,
+without force, must be accomplished by some means of conveying our ideas
+to his mind. I say to my horse &quot;go 'long&quot; and he goes; &quot;ho!&quot; and he stops:
+because these two words, of which he has learned the meaning by the tap
+of the whip, and the pull of the rein that first accompanied them, convey
+the two ideas to his mind of go and stop.</p>
+
+<p>Faucher, or no one else, can ever learn the horse a single thing by the
+means of a scent alone.</p>
+
+<p>How long do you suppose a horse would have to stand and smell of a bottle
+of oil before he would learn to bend his knee and make a bow at your
+bidding, &quot;go yonder and bring your hat,&quot; or &quot;come here and lay down?&quot; Thus
+you see the absurdity of trying to break or tame the horse by the means of
+receipts for articles to smell of, or medicine to give him, of any kind
+whatever.</p>
+
+<p>The only science that has ever existed in the world, relative to the
+breaking of horses, that has been of any account, is that true method
+which takes them in their native state, and improves their intelligence.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Powel's System of Approaching the Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>But, before we go further, I will give you Willis J. Powel's system of
+approaching a wild colt, as given by him in a work published in Europe,
+about the year 1811, on the &quot;Art of taming wild horses.&quot; He says, &quot;A horse
+is gentled by my secret, in from two to sixteen hours.&quot; The time I have
+most commonly employed has been from four to six hours. He goes on to say:
+&quot;Cause your horse to be put in a small yard, stable, or room. If in a
+stable or room, it ought to be large in order to give him some exercise
+with the halter before you lead him out. If the horse belong to that class
+which appears only to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into
+the stable, room, or yard, where the horse is. He will naturally run from
+you, and frequently turn his head from you; but you must walk about
+extremely slow and softly, so that he can see you whenever he turns his
+head towards you, which he never fails to do in a short time, say in a
+quarter of an hour. I never knew one to be much longer without turning
+towards me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your left hand towards
+him, and stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, watching
+his motions if he makes any. If the horse does not stir for ten or fifteen
+minutes, advance as slowly as possible, and without making the least
+noise, always holding out your left hand, without any other ingredient in
+it than that what nature put in it.&quot; He says, &quot;I have made use of certain,
+ingredients before people, such as the sweat under my arm, etc., to
+disguise the real secret, and many believed that the docility to which
+the horse arrived in so short a time, was owing to these ingredients; but
+you see from this explanation that they were of no use whatever. The
+implicit faith placed in these ingredients, though innocent of themselves,
+becomes 'faith without works.' And thus men remained always in doubt
+concerning this secret. If the horse makes the least motion when you
+advance toward him, stop, and remain perfectly still until he is quiet.
+Remain a few moments in this condition, and then advance again in the same
+slow and imperceptible manner. Take notice: if the horse stirs, stop
+without changing your position. It is very uncommon for the horse to stir
+more than once after you begin to advance, yet there are exceptions. He
+generally keeps his eyes steadfast on you, until you get near enough to
+touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise slowly,
+and by degrees, your hand, and let it come in contact with that part just
+above the nostrils as lightly as possible. If the horse flinches, (as many
+will,) repeat with great rapidity these light strokes upon the forehead,
+going a little further up towards his ears by degrees, and descending with
+the same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. Now
+let the strokes be repeated with more force over all his forehead,
+descending by lighter strokes to each side of his head, until you can
+handle that part with equal facility. Then touch in the same light manner,
+making your hands and fingers play around the lower part of the horse's
+ears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be looked upon
+as the helm that governs all the rest.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Having succeeded in handling his ears, advance towards the neck, with the
+same precautions, and in the same manner; observing always to augment the
+force of the strokes whenever the horse will permit it. Perform the same
+on both sides of the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms without
+flinching.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to the back
+of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness return
+immediately to the forehead as the true standard, patting him with your
+hands, and from thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, always
+gaining ground a considerable distance farther on every time this happens.
+The head, ears, neck and body being thus gentled, proceed from the back to
+the root of the tail.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;This must be managed with dexterity, as a horse is never to be depended
+on that is skittish about the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidly
+on that part next to the body a minute or two, and then you will begin to
+give it a slight pull upwards every quarter of a minute. At the same time
+you continue this handling of him, augment the force of the strokes, as
+well as the raising of the tail, until you can raise it and handle it with
+the greatest ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in most
+horses; in others almost immediately, and in some much longer. It now
+remains to handle all his legs. From the tail come back again to the head,
+handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc., speaking now and
+then to the horse. Begin by degrees to descend to the legs, always
+ascending and descending, gaining ground every time you descend until you
+get to his feet.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Talk to the horse in Latin, Greek, French, English, or Spanish, or in any
+other language you please; but let him hear the sound of your voice, which
+at the beginning of the operation is not quite so necessary, but which I
+have always done in making him lift up his feet. Hold up your foot&mdash;'Live
+la pied'&mdash;'Alza el pie'&mdash;'Aron ton poda,' etc., at the same time lift his
+foot with your hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and will
+hold his foot up at command. Then proceed to the hind feet and go on in
+the same manner, and in a short time the horse will let you lift them and
+even take them up in your arms.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism; it is merely taking
+away the fear a horse generally has of a man, and familiarizing the animal
+with his master; as the horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasure
+from this handling, he will soon become gentle under it, and show a very
+marked attachment to his keeper.&quot;</p>
+
+
+<h4>Remarks on Powel's Treatment how to govern Horses of Any Kind.</h4>
+
+<p>These instructions are very good, but not quite sufficient for horses of
+all kinds, and for haltering and leading the colt; but I have inserted it
+here, because it gives some of the true philosophy of approaching the
+horse, and of establishing confidence between man and horse. He speaks
+only of the kind that fear man.</p>
+
+<p>To those who understand the philosophy of horsemanship, these are the
+easiest trained; for when we have a horse that is wild and lively, we can
+train him to our will in a very short time; for they are generally quick
+to learn, and always ready to obey. But there is another kind that are of
+a stubborn or vicious disposition, and, although they are not wild, and do
+not require taming, in the sense it is generally understood, they are just
+as ignorant as a wild horse, if not more so, and need to be learned just
+as much; and in order to have them obey quickly, it is very necessary that
+they should be made to fear their masters; for, in order to obtain perfect
+obedience from any horse, we must first have him fear us, for our motto is
+<i>fear, love, and obey</i>; and we must have the fulfilment of the first two
+before we can expect the latter, and it is by our philosophy of creating
+fear, love and confidence, that we govern to our will every kind of a
+horse whatever.</p>
+
+<p>Then, in order to take horses as we find them, or all kinds, and to train
+them to our likings, we will always take with us, when we go into a stable
+to train a colt, a long switch whip, (whale-bone buggy whips is the best,)
+with a good silk cracker, so as to cut keen and make a sharp report,
+which, if handled with dexterity, and rightly applied, accompanied with a
+sharp, fierce word, will be sufficient to enliven the spirits of any
+horse. With this whip in your right hand, with the lash pointing backward,
+enter the stable alone. It is a great disadvantage in training a horse, to
+have any one in the stable with you; you should be entirely alone, so as
+not to have nothing but yourself to attract his attention. If he is wild
+you will soon see him in the opposite side of the stable from you; and now
+is the time to use a little judgement. I would not want for myself, more
+than half or three-quarters of an hour to handle any kind of a colt, and
+have him running about in the stable after me; though I would advise a new
+beginner to take more time, and not to be in too much of a hurry. If you
+have but one colt to gentle, and are not particular about the length of
+time you spend, and have not had any experience in handling colts, I would
+advise you to take Mr. Powel's method at first, till you gentle him, which
+he says takes from two to six hours. But, as I want to accomplish the
+same, and what is much more, learn the horse to lead in less than one
+hour, I shall give you a much quicker process of accomplishing the same
+end. Accordingly, when you have entered the stable, stand still and let
+your horse look at you a minute or two, and as soon as he is settled in
+one place, approach him slowly, with both arms stationary, your right
+hanging by your side, holding the whip as directed, and the left bent at
+the elbow, with your hand projecting. As you approach him, go not too much
+towards his head or croop, so as not to make him move either forward or
+backward, thus keeping your horse stationary, if he does move a little
+forward or backward, step a little to the right or left very cautiously;
+this will keep him in one place, as you get very near him, draw a little
+to his shoulder, and stop a few seconds. If you are in his reach he will
+turn his head and smell at your hand, not that he has any preference for
+your hand, but because that it is projecting, and is the nearest portion
+of your body to the horse. This all colts will do, and they will smell of
+your naked hand just as quick as they will of any thing that you can put
+in it, and with just as good an effect, however much some men have
+preached the doctrine of taming horses by giving them the scent articles
+from the hand. I have already proved that to be a mistake. As soon as he
+touches his nose to your hand, caress him as before directed, always using
+a very light, soft hand, merely touching the horse, all ways rubbing the
+way the hair lays, so that your hand will pass along as smoothly as
+possible. As you stand by his side you may find it more convenient to rub
+his neck or the side of his head, which will answer the same purpose, as
+rubbing his forehead. Favor every inclination of the horse to smell or
+touch you with his nose. Always follow each touch or communication of this
+kind with the most tender and affectionate caresses, accompanied with a
+kind look, and pleasant word of some sort, such as: Ho! my little boy, ho!
+my little boy, pretty boy, nice lady! or something of that kind,
+constantly repeating the same words, with the same kind, steady tone of
+voice; for the horse soon learns to read the expression of the face and
+voice, and will know as well when fear, love or anger, prevails as you
+know your own feelings; two of which, <i>fear and anger</i>, a good horseman
+<i>should never feel</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Proceed if your Horse is of a Stubborn Disposition.</h4>
+
+<p>If your horse, instead of being wild, seems to be of a stubborn or
+<i>mulish</i> disposition; if he lays back his ears as you approach him, or
+turns his heels to kick you, he has not that regard or fear of man that he
+should have, to enable you to handle him quickly and easily; and it might
+be well to give him a few sharp cuts with the whip, about the legs, pretty
+close to the body. It will crack keen as it plies around his legs, and the
+crack of the whip will affect him as much as the stroke; besides one sharp
+cut about his legs will affect him more than two or three over his back,
+the skin on the inner part of his legs or about his flank being thinner,
+more tender than on his back. But do not whip him much, just enough to
+scare him, it is not because we want to hurt the horse that we whip him,
+we only do it to scare that bad disposition out of him. But whatever you
+do, do quickly, sharply and with a good deal of fire, but always without
+anger. If you are going to scare him at all you must do it at once. Never
+go into a pitch battle with your horse, and whip him until he is mad and
+will fight you; you had better not touch him at all, for you will
+establish, instead of fear and regard, feelings of resentment, hatred and
+ill-will. It will do him no good but an injury, to strike a blow, unless
+you can scare him; but if you succeed in scaring him, you can whip him
+without making him mad; for fear and anger never exist together in the
+horse, and as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other has
+disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him so that he will stand up
+straight and pay some attention to you, approach him again and caress him
+a good deal more than you whipped him, then you will excite the two
+controlling passions of his nature, love and fear, and then he will fear
+and love you too, and as soon as he learns what to do will quickly obey.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Halter and Lead the Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>As soon as you have gentled the colt a little, take the halter in your
+left hand and approach him as before, and on the same side that you have
+gentled him. If he is very timid about your approaching closely to him,
+you can get up to him quicker by making the whip a part of your arm, and
+reaching out very gently with the but end of it, rubbing him lightly on
+the neck, all the time getting a little closer, shortening the whip by
+taking it up in your hand, until you finally get close enough to put your
+hands on him. If he is inclined to hold his head from you, put the end of
+the halter strap around his neck, drop your whip, and draw very gently; he
+will let his neck give, and you can pull his head to you. Then take hold
+of that part of the halter, which buckles over the top of his head, and
+pass the long side, or that part which goes into the buckle, under his
+neck, grasping it on the opposite side with your right hand, letting the
+first strap loose&mdash;the latter will be sufficient to hold his head to you.
+Lower the halter a little, just enough to get his nose into that part
+which goes around it, then raise it somewhat, and fasten the top buckle,
+and you will have it all right. The first time you halter a colt you
+should stand on the left side, pretty well back to his shoulder only
+taking hold of that part of the halter that goes around his neck, then
+with your hands about his neck you can hold his head to you, and raise the
+halter on it without making him dodge by putting your hands about his
+nose. You should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you have
+the halter on, attach this to it, so that you can let him walk the length
+of the stable without letting go of the strap, or without making him pull
+on the halter, for if you only let him feel the weight of your hand on the
+halter, and give him rope when he runs from you, he will never rear, pull,
+or throw himself, yet you will be holding him all the time, and doing more
+towards gentling him, than if you had the power to snub him right up, and
+hold him to one spot; because, he does not know any thing about his
+strength, and if you don't do any thing to make him pull, he will never
+know that he can. In a few minutes you can begin to control him with the
+halter, then shorten the distance between yourself and the horse, by
+taking up the strap in your hand.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as he will allow you to hold him by a tolerably short strap, and
+step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give him some idea
+about leading. But to do this, do not go before and attempt to pull him
+after you, but commence by pulling him very quietly to one side. He has
+nothing to brace either side of his neck, and will soon yield to a steady,
+gradual pull of the halter; and as soon as you have pulled him a step or
+two to one side, step up to him and caress him, and then pull him again,
+repeating this operation until you can pull him around in every direction,
+and walk about the stable with him, which you can do in a few minutes, for
+he will soon think when you have made him step to the right or left a few
+times, that he is compelled to follow the pull of the halter, not knowing
+that he has the power to resist your pulling; besides, you have handled
+him so gently, that he is not afraid of you, and you always caress him
+when he comes up to you, and he likes that, and would just as leave follow
+you as not. And after he has had a few lessons of that kind, if you turn
+him out in a lot he will come up to you every opportunity he gets. You
+should lead him about in the stable some time before you take him out,
+opening the door, so that he can see out, leading him up to it and back
+again, and past it. See that there is nothing on the outside to make him
+jump, when you take him out, and as you go out with him, try to make him
+go very slowly, catching hold of the halter close to the jaw, with your
+left hand, while the right is resting on the top of the neck, holding to
+his mane. After you are out with him a little while, you can lead him
+about as you please. Don't let any second person come up to you when you
+first take him out; a stranger taking hold of the halter would frighten
+him, and make him run. There should not even be any one standing near him
+to attract his attention, or scare him. If you are alone, and manage him
+right, it will not require any more force to lead or hold him than it
+would to manage a broke horse.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to lead a Colt by the side of a broken Horse.</h4>
+
+<p>If you should want to lead your colt by the side of another horse, as is
+often the case, I would advise you to take your horse into the stable,
+attach a second strap to the colt's halter, and lead your horse up
+alongside of him. Then get on the broke horse and take one strap around
+his breast, under his martingale, (if he has any on,) holding it in your
+left hand. This will prevent the colt from getting back too far; besides,
+you will have more power to hold him, with the strap pulling against the
+horse's breast. The other strap take up in your right hand to prevent him
+from running ahead; then turn him about a few times in the stable, and if
+the door is wide enough, ride out with him in that position; if not, take
+the broke horse out first, and stand his breast up against the door, then
+lead the colt to the same spot, and take the straps as before directed,
+one on each side of his neck, then let some one start the colt out, and as
+he comes out, turn your horse to the left, and you will have them all
+right. This is the best way to lead a colt; you can manage any kind of a
+colt in this way, without any trouble; for, if he tries to run ahead, or
+pull back, the two straps will bring the horses facing each other, so that
+you can easily follow up his movements without doing much holding, and as
+soon as he stops running backward you are right with him, and all ready to
+go ahead. And if he gets stubborn and does not want to go, you can remove
+all his stubbornness by riding your horse against his neck, thus
+compelling him to turn to the right, and as soon as you have turned him
+about a few times, he will be willing to go along. The next thing, after
+you are through leading him, will be to take him into a stable, and hitch
+him in such a way as not to have him pull on the halter, and as they are
+often troublesome to get into a stable the first few times, I will give
+you some instructions about getting him in.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to lead a Colt into the Stable and hitch Him without having Him pull
+on the Halter.</h4>
+
+<p>You should lead the broke horse into the stable first, and get the colt,
+if you can, to follow in after him. If he refuses to go, step up to him,
+taking a little stick or switch in your right hand; then take hold of the
+halter close to his head with your left hand, at the same time reaching
+over his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the opposite
+side with your switch; bring him up facing the door, tap him lightly with
+your switch, reaching as far back with it as you can. This tapping, by
+being pretty well back, and on the opposite side, will drive him ahead,
+and keep him close to you, then by giving him the right direction with
+your left hand you can walk into the stable with him. I have walked colts
+into the stable this way, in less than a minute, after men had worked at
+them half an hour, trying to pull them in. If you cannot walk him it at
+once this way, turn him about and walk him round in every direction, until
+you can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then let him stand
+a few minutes, keeping his head in the right direction with the halter,
+and he will walk in, in less than ten minutes. Never attempt to pull the
+colt into the stable; that would make him think at once that it was a
+dangerous place, and if he was not afraid of it before, he would be then.
+Besides we don't want him to know anything about pulling on the halter.
+Colts are often hurt, and sometimes killed, by trying to force them into
+the stable; and those who attempt to do it in that way, go into an up-hill
+business, when a plain smooth road is before them.</p>
+
+<p>If you want to hitch your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall which
+should not be too long, and should be connected by a bar or something of
+that kind to the partition behind it; so that, after the colt is in he
+cannot get far enough back to take a straight, backward pull on the
+halter; then by hitching him in the center of the stall, it would be
+impossible for him to pull on the halter, the partition behind preventing
+him from going back, and the halter in the center checking him every time
+he turns to the left or right. In a state of this kind you can break every
+horse to stand hitched by a light strap, any where, without his ever
+knowing any thing about pulling. But if you have broke your horse to lead,
+and have learned him the use of the halter (which you should always do
+before you hitch him to any thing), you can hitch him in any kind of a
+stall, and give him something to eat to keep him up to his place for a few
+minutes at first and there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on his
+halter.</p>
+
+
+<h4>The kind of Bit and how to accustom a Horse to it.</h4>
+
+<p>You should use a large, smooth, snaffle bit, so as not to hurt his mouth,
+with a bar to each side, to prevent the bit from pulling through either
+way. This you should attach to the head-stall of your bridle and put it on
+your colt without any reins to it, and let him run loose in a large stable
+or shed, some time, until he becomes a little used to the bit, and will
+bear it without trying to get it out of his mouth. It would be well, if
+convenient, to repeat this several times before you do anything more with
+the colt; as soon as he will bear the bit, attach a single rein to it,
+without any martingale. You should also have a halter on your colt, or a
+bridle made after the fashion of a halter, with a strap to it, so that you
+can hold or lead him about without pulling on the bit much. He is now
+ready for the saddle.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Saddle a Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>Any one man, who has this theory, can put a saddle on the wildest colt
+that ever grew, without any help, and without scaring him. The first thing
+will be to tie each stirrup strap into a loose knot to make them short,
+and prevent the stirrups from flying about and hitting him. Then double up
+the skirts and take the saddle under your right arm, so as not to frighten
+him with it as you approach. When you get to him, rub him gently a few
+times with your hand, and then raise the saddle very slowly until he can
+see it, and smell, and feel it with his nose. Then let the skirts loose,
+and rub it very gently against his neck the way the hair lays, letting him
+hear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them against him; each time
+getting a little farther backward, and finally slip it over his shoulders
+on his back. Shake it a little with your hand, and in less than five
+minutes you can rattle it about over his back as much as you please, and
+pull it off and throw it on again, without his paying much attention to
+it.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten the girth. Be
+careful how you do this. It often frightens a Colt when he feels the girth
+binding him, and making the saddle fit tight on his back. You should bring
+up the girth very gently, and not draw it too tight at first, just enough
+to hold the saddle on. Move him a little, and then girth it as tight as
+you choose, and he will not mind it.</p>
+
+<p>You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right before you put it
+on, and that there is nothing to make it hurt him, or feel unpleasant to
+his back. It should not have any loose straps on the back part of it to
+flap about and scare him. After you have saddled him in this way, take a
+switch in your right hand to tap him up with, and walk about in the stable
+a few times with your right arm over the saddle, taking hold of the reins
+on each side of his neck, with your right and left hands. Thus marching
+him about in the stable until you learn him the use of the bridle, and can
+turn him about in any direction, and stop him by a gentle pull of the
+rein. Always caress him, and loose the reins a little every time you stop
+him.</p>
+
+<p>You should always be alone, and have your colt in some tight stable or
+shed, the first time you ride him; the loft should be high so that you can
+sit on his back without endangering your head. You can learn him more in
+two hours time in a stable of this kind, than you could in two weeks in
+the common way of breaking colts, out in an open place. It you follow my
+course of treatment, you need not run any risk, or have any trouble in
+riding the worst kind of a horse. You take him a step at a time, until you
+get up a mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse. First
+learn him to lead and stand hitched, next acquaint him with the saddle,
+and the use of the bit; and then all that remains, is to get on him
+without scaring him, and you can ride him as well as any horse.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Mount the Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>First gentle him well on both sides, about the saddle, and all over,
+until he will stand still without holding, and is not afraid to see you
+any where about him.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as you have him thus gentled, get a small block, about one foot or
+eighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side of him, about where
+you want to stand to mount him; step up on this, raising yourself very
+gently; horses notice every change of position very closely, and if you
+were to step up suddenly on the block, it would be very apt to scare him;
+but by raising yourself gradually on it, he will see you, without being
+frightened, in a position very near the same as when you are on his back.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup strap next
+to you, and put your left foot into the stirrup, and stand square over it,
+holding your knee against the horse, and your toe out, so as to touch him
+under the shoulder with the toe of your boot. Place your right hand on the
+front of the saddle and on the opposite side of you. Taking hold of a
+portion of the mane and the reins as they hang loosely over his neck with
+your left hand; then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup, and on
+your right hand, until the horse feels your whole weight on the saddle;
+repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a little higher from
+the block, until he will allow you to raise your leg over his croop, and
+place yourself in the saddle.</p>
+
+<p>There are three great advantages in having a block to mount from. First, a
+sudden change of position is very apt to frighten a young horse that has
+never been handled; he will allow you to walk up to him, and stand by his
+side without scaring at you, because you have gentled him to that
+position, but if you get down on your hands and knees and crawl towards
+him, he will be very much frightened, and upon the same principle, he
+would frighten at your new position if you had the power to hold yourself
+over his back without touching him. Then the first great advantage of the
+block is to gradually gentle him to that new position in which he will see
+you when you ride him.</p>
+
+<p>Secondly, by the process of leaning your weight in the stirrups, and on
+your hand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight, so as not to
+frighten him by having him feel it all at once. And in the third place the
+block elevates you so that you will not have to make a spring in order to
+get on to the horse's back, but from it you can gradually raise yourself
+into the saddle. When you take these precautions, there is no horse so
+wild, but what you can mount him without making him jump. I have tried it
+on the worst horses that could be found, and have never failed in any
+case. When mounting, your horse should always stand without being held. A
+horse is never well broke when he has to be held with a tight rein while
+mounting; and a colt is never so safe to mount, as when you see that
+assurance of confidence, and absence of fear, which causes him to stand
+without holding.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Ride the Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>When you want him to start do not touch him on the side with your heel or
+do anything to frighten him and make him jump. But speak to him kindly,
+and if he does not start pull him a little to the left until he starts,
+and then let him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk him around in
+the stable a few times until he gets used to the bit, and you can turn him
+about in every direction and stop him as you please. It would be well to
+get on and off a good many times until he gets perfectly used to it before
+you take him out of the stable.</p>
+
+<p>After you have trained him in this way, which should not take you more
+than one or two hours, you can ride him any where you choose without ever
+having him jump or make any effort to throw you.</p>
+
+<p>When you first take him out of the stable be very gentle with him, as he
+will feel a little more at liberty to jump or run, and be a little easier
+frightened than he was while in the stable. But after handling him so much
+in the stable he will be pretty well broke, and you will be able to manage
+him without trouble or danger.</p>
+
+<p>When you first mount him take a little the shortest hold on the left rein,
+so that if any thing frightens him you can prevent him jumping by pulling
+his head around to you. This operation of pulling a horse's head around
+against his side will prevent any horse from jumping ahead, rearing up, or
+running away. If he is stubborn and will not go you can make him move by
+pulling his head around to one side, when whipping would have no effect.
+And turning him around a few times will make him dizzy, and then by
+letting him have his head straight, and giving him a little touch with the
+whip, he will go along without any trouble.</p>
+
+<p>Never use martingales on a colt when you first ride him; every movement of
+the hand should go right to the bit in the direction in which it is
+applied to the reins, without a martingale to change the direct of the
+force applied. You can guide the colt much better without them, and learn
+him the use of the bit in much less time. Besides, martingales would
+prevent you from pulling his head around if he should try to jump.</p>
+
+<p>After your colt has been rode until he is gentle and well accustomed to
+the bit, you may find it an advantage if he carries his head too high, or
+his nose too far out, to put martingales on him.</p>
+
+<p>You should be careful not to ride your colt so far at first as to heat,
+worry or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is a little fatigued;
+gentle him and let him rest, this will make him kind to you and prevent
+him from getting stubborn or mad.</p>
+
+
+<h4>The proper way to Bit a Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>Farmers often put bitting harness on a colt the first thing they do to
+him, buckling up the bitting as tight as they can draw it to make him
+carry his head high, and then turn him out in a lot to run a half day at a
+time. This is one of the worst punishments that they could inflict on the
+colt, and very injurious to a young horse that has been used to running in
+pasture with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in this way that
+they never got over it.</p>
+
+<p>A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you put on the bitting
+harness, and when you first bit him you should only rein his head up to
+that point where he naturally holds it, let that be high or low; he will
+soon learn that he cannot lower his head, and that raising it a little
+will loosen the bit in his mouth. This will give him the idea of raising
+his head to loosen the bit, and then you can draw the bitting a little
+tighter every time you put it on, and he will still raise his head to
+loosen it; by this means you will gradually get his head and neck in the
+position you want him to carry it, and give him a nice and graceful
+carriage without hurting him, making him mad, or causing his mouth to get
+sore.</p>
+
+<p>If you put the bitting on very tight the first time, he cannot raise his
+head enough to loosen it, but will bear on it all the time, and paw, sweat
+and throw himself. Many horses have been killed by falling backward with
+the bitting on, their heads being drawn up, strike the ground with the
+whole weight of the body. Horses that have their heads drawn up tightly
+should not have the bitting on more than fifteen or twenty minutes at a
+time.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to drive a Horse that is very wild, and has any vicious habit</h4>
+
+<p>Take up one fore foot and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom upwards,
+and merely touching his body, then slip a loop over his knee, and up until
+it comes above the pasture joint to keep it up, being careful to draw the
+loop together between the hoof and pasture joint with a second strap of
+some kind, to prevent the loop from slipping down and coming off. This
+will leave the horse standing on three legs; you can now handle him as you
+wish, for it is utterly impossible for him to kick in this position.
+There is something in this operation of taking up one foot that conquers a
+horse quicker and better than any thing else you can do to him. There is
+no process in the world equal to it to break a kicking horse, for several
+reasons. First, there is a principle of this kind in the nature of the
+horse; that by conquering one member you conquer to a great extent the
+whole horse.</p>
+
+<p>You have perhaps seen men operate upon this principle by sewing a horse's
+ears together to prevent him from kicking. I once saw a plan given in a
+newspaper to make a bad horse stand to be shod, which was to fasten down
+one ear. There were no reasons given why you should do so; but I tried it
+several times, and thought it had a good effect&mdash;though I would not
+recommend its use, especially stitching his ears together. The only
+benefit arising from this process is, that by disarranging his ears we
+draw his attention to them, and he is not so apt to resist the shoeing. By
+tying up one foot we operate on the same principle to a much better
+effect. When you first fasten up a horse's foot he will sometimes get very
+mad, and strike with his knee, and try every possible way to get it down;
+but he cannot do that, and will soon give it up.</p>
+
+<p>This will conquer him better than anything you could do, and without any
+possible danger of hurting himself or you either, for you can tie up his
+foot and sit down and look at him until he gives up. When you find that he
+is conquered, go to him, let down his foot, rub his leg with your hand,
+caress him and let him rest a little, then put it up again. Repeat this a
+few times, always putting up the same foot, and he will soon learn to
+travel on three legs so that you can drive him some distance. As soon as
+he gets a little used to this way of traveling, put on your harness and
+hitch him to a sulky. If he is the worst kicking horse that ever raised a
+foot you need not be fearful of his doing any damage while he has one foot
+up, for he cannot kick, neither can he run fast enough to do any harm. And
+if he is the wildest horse that ever had harness on, and has run away
+every time he has been hitched, you can now hitch him in a sulky and drive
+him as you please. And if he wants to run you can let him have the lines,
+and the whip too, with perfect safety, for he cannot go but a slow gait on
+three legs, and will soon be tired and willing to stop; only hold him
+enough to guide him in the right direction, and he will soon be tired and
+willing to stop at the word. Thus you will effectually cure him at once of
+any further notion of running off. Kicking horses have always been the
+dread of every body; you always hear men say, when they speak about a bad
+horse, &quot;I don't care what he does, so he don't kick.&quot; This new method is
+an effectual cure for this worst of all habits. There are plenty of ways
+by which you can hitch a kicking horse and force him to go, though he
+kicks all the time; but this don't have any good effect towards breaking
+him, for we know that horses kick because they are afraid of what is
+behind them, and when they kick against it and it hurts them they will
+only kick the harder, and this will hurt them still more and make them
+remember the scrape much longer, and make it still more difficult to
+persuade them to have any confidence in any thing dragging behind them
+ever after.</p>
+
+<p>But by this new method you can hitch them to a rattling sulky, plow,
+wagon, or anything else in its worst shape. They may be frightened at
+first, but cannot kick or do any thing to hurt themselves, and will soon
+find that you do not intend to hurt them, and then they will not care any
+thing more about it. You can then let down the leg and drive along gently
+without any farther trouble. By this new process a bad kicking horse can
+be learned to go gentle in harness in a few hours' time.</p>
+
+
+<h4>On Balking.</h4>
+
+<p>Horses know nothing about balking, only as they are brought into it by
+improper management, and when a horse balks in harness it is generally
+from some mismanagement, excitement, confusion, or from not knowing how to
+pull, but seldom from any unwillingness to perform all that he
+understands. High spirited, free going horses are the most subject to
+balking, and only so because drivers do not properly understand how to
+manage this kind. A free horse in a team may be so anxious to go that when
+he hears the word he will start with a jump, which will not move the load,
+but give him such a severe jerk on the shoulders that he will fly back and
+stop the other horse; the teamster will continue his driving without any
+cessation, and by the time he has the slow horse started again he will
+find that the free horse has made another jump, and again flew back, and
+now he has them both badly balked, and so confused that neither of them
+knows what is the matter, or how to start the load. Next will come the
+slashing and cracking of the whip, and hallooing of the driver, till
+something is broken or he is through with his course of treatment. But
+what a mistake the driver commits by whipping his horse for this act.
+Reason and common sense should teach him that the horse was willing and
+anxious to go, but did not know how to start the load. And should he whip
+him for that? If so, he should whip him again for not knowing how to talk.
+A man that wants to act with any rationality or reason should not fly into
+a passion, but should always think before he strikes. It takes a steady
+pressure against the collar to move a load, and you cannot expect him to
+act with a steady, determined purpose while you are whipping him. There is
+hardly one balking horse in five hundred that will pull true from
+whipping; it is only adding fuel to fire, and will make them more liable
+to balk another time. You always see horses that have been balked a few
+times, turn their heads and look back, as soon as they are a little
+frustrated. This is because they have been whipped and are afraid of what
+is behind them. This is an invariable rule with balked horses, just as
+much as it is for them to look around at their sides when they have the
+bots; in either case they are deserving of the same sympathy and the same
+kind, rational treatment.</p>
+
+<p>When your horse balks, or is a little excited, if he wants to start
+quickly, or looks around and don't want to go, there is something wrong,
+and needs kind he treatment immediately. Caress him kindly, and if he
+don't understand at once what you want him to do he will not be so much
+excited as to jump and break things, and do everything wrong through fear.
+As long as you are calm and can keep down the excitement of the horse,
+there are ten chances to have him understand you, where there would not be
+one under harsh treatment, and then the little <i>flare up</i> would not carry
+with it any unfavorable recollections, and he would soon forget all about
+it, and learn to pull true. Almost every wrong act the horse commits is
+from mismanagement, fear or excitement; one harsh word will so excite a
+nervous horse as to increase his pulse ten beats in a minute.</p>
+
+<p>When we remember that we are dealing with dumb brutes, and reflect how
+difficult it must be for them to understand our motions, signs and
+language, we should never get out of patience with them because they don't
+understand us, or wonder at their doing things wrong. With all our
+intellect, if we were placed in the horse's situation, it would be
+difficult for us to understand the driving of some foreigner, of foreign
+ways and foreign language. We should always recollect that our ways and
+language are just as foreign and unknown to the horse as any language in
+the world is to us, and should try to practice what we could understand,
+were we the horse, endeavoring by some simple means to work on his
+understanding rather than on the different parts of his body. All balked
+horses can be started true and steady in a few minutes time; they are all
+willing to pull as soon as they know how, and I never yet found a balked
+horse that I could not teach him to start his load in fifteen, and often
+less than three minutes time.</p>
+
+<p>Almost any team, when first balked, will start kindly, if you let them
+stand five or ten minutes, as though there was nothing wrong, and then
+speak to them with a steady voice, and turn them a little to the right or
+left, so as to get them both in motion before they feel the pinch of the
+load. But if you want to start a team that you are not driving yourself,
+that has been balked, fooled and whipped for some time, go to them and
+hang the lines on their hames, or fasten them to the wagon, so that they
+will be perfectly loose; make the driver and spectators (if there is any)
+stand off some distance to one side, so as not to attract the attention of
+the horses; unloose their checkreins, so that they can get their heads
+down, if they choose; let them stand a few minutes in this condition,
+until you can see that they are a little composed. While they are standing
+you should be about their heads, gentling them; it will make them a little
+more kind, and the spectators will think that you are doing something that
+they do not understand, and will not learn the secret. When you have them
+ready to start, stand before them, and as you seldom have but one balky
+horse in a team, get as near in front of him as you can, and if he is too
+fast for the other horse, let his nose come against your breast; this will
+keep him steady, for he will go slow rather than run on you; turn them
+gently to the right, without letting them pull on the traces, as far as
+the tongue will let them go; stop them with a kind word, gentle them a
+little, and then turn them back to the left, by the same process. You will
+have them under your control by this time, and as you turn them again to
+the right, steady them in the collar, and you can take them where you
+please.</p>
+
+<p>There is a quicker process that will generally start a balky horse, but
+not so sure. Stand him a little ahead, so that his shoulders will be
+against the collar, and then take up one of his fore feet in your hand,
+and let the driver start them, and when the weight comes against his
+shoulders, he will try to step; then let him have his foot, and he will go
+right along. If you want to break a horse from balking that has long been
+in that habit, you ought to set apart a half day for that purpose. Put him
+by the side of some steady horse; have check lines on them; tie up all the
+traces and straps, so that there will be nothing to excite them; do not
+rein them up, but let them have their heads loose. Walk them about
+together for some time as slowly and lazily as possible; stop often, and
+go up to your balky horse and gentle him. Do not take any whip about him,
+or do any thing to excite him, but keep him just as quiet as you can. He
+will soon learn to start off at the word, and stop whenever you tell him.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as he performs right, hitch him in an empty wagon; have it stand
+in a favorable position for starting. It would be well to shorten the stay
+chain behind the steady horse, so that if it is necessary he can take the
+weight of the wagon the first time you start them. Do not drive but a few
+rods at first; watch your balky horse closely, and if you see that he is
+getting balky, stop him before he stops of his own accord, caress him a
+little, and start again. As soon as they go well, drive them over a small
+hill a few times, and then over a large one, occasionally adding a little
+load. This process will make any horse true to pull.</p>
+
+
+<h4>To Break a Horse to Harness.</h4>
+
+<p>Take him in a tight stable, as you did to ride him; take the harness and
+go through the same process that you did with the saddle, until you get
+him familiar with them, so that you can put them on him and rattle them
+about without his caring for them. As soon as he will bear this, put on
+the lines, caress him as you draw them over him, and drive him about in
+the stable till he will bear them over his hips. The <i>lines</i> are a great
+aggravation to some colts, and often frighten them as much as if you were
+to raise a whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the harness and
+line, take him out and put him by the side of a gentle horse, and go
+through the same process that you did with the balking horse. Always use a
+bridle without blinds when you are breaking a horse to harness.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to hitch a Horse in a Sulky.</h4>
+
+<p>Lead him to and around it; let him look at it, touch it with his nose, and
+stand by it till he does not care for it; then pull the shafts a little to
+the left, and stand by your horse in front of the off wheel. Let some one
+stand on the right side of the horse, and hold him by the bit, while you
+stand on the left side, facing the sulky. This will keep him straight. Run
+your left hand back and let it rest on his hip, and lay hold of the shafts
+with your right, bringing them up very gently to the left hand, which
+still remains stationary. Do not let anything but your arm touch his back,
+and as soon as you have the shafts square over him, let the person on the
+opposite side take hold of one of them and lower them very gently on the
+shaft bearers. Be very slow and deliberate about hitching; the longer time
+you take, the better, as a general thing. When you have the shafts placed,
+shake them slightly, so that he will feel them against each side. As soon
+as he will bear them without scaring, fasten your braces, etc., and start
+him along very slowly. Let one man lead the horse to keep him gentle,
+while the other gradually works back with the lines till he can get behind
+and drive him. After you have driven him in this way a short distance, you
+can get into the sulky, and all will go right. It is very important to
+have your horse go gently, when you first hitch him. After you have walked
+him awhile, there is not half so much danger of his scaring. Men do very
+wrong to jump up behind a horse to drive him as soon as they have him
+hitched. There are too many things for him to comprehend all at once. The
+shafts, the lines, the harness, and the rattling of the sulky, all tend to
+scare him, and he must be made familiar with them by degrees. If your
+horse is very wild, I would advise you to put up one foot the first time
+you drive him.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Make a Horse Lie Down.</h4>
+
+<p>Every thing that we want to learn the horse must be commenced in some way
+to give him an idea of what you want him to do, and then be repeated till
+he learns it perfectly. To make a horse lie down, bend his left fore leg,
+and slip a loop over it, so that he cannot get it down. Then put a
+circingle around his body, and fasten one end of a long strap around the
+other fore leg, just above the hoof. Place the other end under the
+circingle, so as to keep the strap in the right hand; stand on the left
+side of the horse, grasp the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on the
+strap with your right; bear against his shoulder till you cause him to
+move. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise the other
+foot, and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the strap tight in your
+hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if he raises up. Hold him in
+his position, and turn his head toward you; bear against his side with
+your shoulder, not hard, but with a steady equal pressure, and in about
+ten minutes he will lie down. As soon as he lies down he will be
+completely conquered, and you can handle him as you please. Take off the
+straps, and straighten out his legs; rub him lightly about the face and
+neck with your hand the way the hair lays; handle all his legs, and after
+he has lain ten or twenty minutes, let him get up again. After resting him
+a short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the operation three or
+four times, which will be sufficient for one lesson. Give him two lessons
+a day, and when you have given him four lessons, he will lie down by
+taking hold of one foot. As soon as he is well broken to lie down in this
+way, tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you take hold of his
+foot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere motion of the
+stick.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to make a Horse follow you.</h4>
+
+<p>Turn him into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance to get out,
+with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him a little, take hold
+of his halter and turn him towards you, at the same time touching him
+lightly over the hips with a long whip. Lead him the length of the stable,
+rubbing him on the neck, saying in a steady tone of voice as you lead him,
+COME ALONG BOY! or use his name instead of boy, if you choose. Every time
+you turn, touch him slightly with the whip, to make him step up close to
+you, and then caress him with your hand. He will soon learn to hurry up to
+escape the whip and be caressed, and you can make him follow you around
+without taking hold of the halter. If he should stop and turn from you,
+give him a few cuts about the hind legs, and he will soon turn his head
+toward you, when you must always caress him. A few lessons of this kind
+will make him run after you, when he sees the motion of the whip&mdash;in
+twenty or thirty minutes he will follow you about the stable. After you
+have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out into a
+small lot and train him; and from thence you can take him into the road
+and make him follow you anywhere, and run after you.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to make a Horse stand without Holding.</h4>
+
+<p>After you have him well broken to follow you, stand him in the center of
+the stable&mdash;begin at his head to caress him, gradually working backward.
+If he move, give him a cut with the whip and put him back in the same spot
+from which he started. If he stands, caress him as before, and continue
+gentling him in this way until you can get round him without making him
+move. Keep walking around him, increasing your pace, and only touch him
+occasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around and if he then moves,
+give him another cut with the whip and put him back to his place. If he
+stands, go to him frequently and caress him, and then walk around him
+again. Do not keep him in one position too long at a time, but make him
+come to you occasionally and follow you round in the stable. Then stand
+him in another place, and proceed as before. You should not train your
+horse more than half an hour at a time.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_HORSEMANS_GUIDE" id="THE_HORSEMANS_GUIDE" /><b>THE HORSEMAN'S GUIDE</b></h2>
+
+<h2>AND</h2>
+
+<h2>FARRIER.</h2>
+
+
+<h4>By JOHN J. STUTZMAN, West Rushville, Fairfield County, Ohio.</h4>
+
+
+<p>I will here insert some of the most efficient cures of diseases to which
+the horse is subject. I have practised them for many years with
+unparalleled success. I have cured horses with the following remedies,
+which, (in many cases,) have been given up in despair, and I never had a
+case in which I did not effect a cure.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cure for Colic.</h4>
+
+<p>Take 1 gill of turpentine, 1 gill of opium dissolved in whisky; 1 quart of
+water, milk warm. Drench the horse and move him about slowly. If there is
+no relief in fifteen minutes, take a piece of chalk, about the size of an
+egg, powder it, and put it into a pint of cider vinegar, which should be
+blood warm, give that, and then move him as before.</p>
+
+<p>ANOTHER.&mdash;Take 1 ounce laudanum, 1 ounce of ether, 1 ounce of tincture of
+assafoetida, 2 ounces tincture of peppermint, half pint of whisky; put all
+in a quart bottle, shake it well and drench the horse.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cure for the Bots.</h4>
+
+<p>Take 1-1/2 pint of fresh milk, (just from the cow,) 1 pint of molasses.
+Drench the horse and bleed him in the mouth; then give him 1 pint of
+linseed oil to remove them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For Distemper.</h4>
+
+<p>Take mustard seed ground fine, tar and rye chop, make pills about the size
+of a hen's egg. Give him six pills every six hours, until they physic him;
+then give him one table spoonful of the horse powder mentioned before,
+once a day, until cured. Keep him from cold water for six hours after
+using the powder.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Long Fever.</h4>
+
+<p>In the first place bleed the horse severely. Give him spirits of nitre,
+in water which should not be too cold, for it would chill him. Keep him
+well covered with blankets, and rub his legs and body well; blister him
+around the chest with mustard seed, and be sure to give him no cold water,
+unless there is spirits of nitre in it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Rheumatic Liniment.</h4>
+
+<p>Take croton oil, aqua ammonia, f.f.f; oil of cajuput, oil of origanum, in
+equal parts. Rub well. It is good for spinal diseases and weak back.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cuts and Wounds of all kinds.</h4>
+
+<p>One pint of alcohol, half ounce of gum of myrrh, half ounce aloes, wash
+once a day.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Sprains and Swellings.</h4>
+
+<p>Take 1-1/2 ounces of harts-horn, 1 ounce camphor, 2 ounces spirits of
+turpentine, 4 ounces sweet oil, 8 ounces alcohol. Anoint twice a day.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For Glanders.</h4>
+
+<p>Take of burnt buck's horn a table spoonful, every three days for nine
+days. If there is no relief in that time, continue the powder until there
+is relief.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Saddle or Collar Liniment.</h4>
+
+<p>One ounce of spirits of turpentine, half ounce of oil of spike, half ounce
+essence of wormwood, half ounce castile soap, half ounce gum camphor, half
+ounce sulphuric ether, half pint alcohol, and wash freely.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Liniment to set the stifle Joint on a Horse.</h4>
+
+<p>One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce oil amber. Shake
+it well and rub the joints twice a day until cured, which will be in two
+or three days.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Eye Water.</h4>
+
+<p>I have tried the following and found it an efficient remedy. I have tried
+it on my own eyes and those of others. Take bolus muna 1 ounce, white
+vitrol 1 ounce, alum half ounce, with one pint clear rain water: shake it
+well before using. If too strong, weaken it with rain water.</p>
+
+<h4>Liniment for Windgalls, Strains and growth of Lumps on Man or Horse.</h4>
+
+<p>One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce amber, aqua fortis
+and sal amoniac 1 drachm, spirits of salts 1 drachm oil of sassafras half
+ounce, harts-horn half ounce. Bathe once or twice a day.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Horse Powder.</h4>
+
+<p>This powder will cure more diseases than any other medicine known; such as
+Distemper, Fersey, Hidebound, Colds, and all lingering diseases which may
+arise from impurity of the blood or lungs.&mdash;Take 1 lb. comfrey root, half
+lb. antimony, half lb. sulphur, 3 oz. of saltpetre, half lb. laurel
+berries, half lb. juniper berries, half lb. angetice seed, half lb. rosin,
+3 oz. alum, half lb. copperas, half lb. master wort, half lb. gun powder.
+Mix all to a powder and give in the most cases, one table spoonful in mash
+feed once a day till cured. Keep the horse dry, and keep him from the cold
+water six hours after using it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For Cuts or Wounds on Horse or Man.</h4>
+
+<p>Take fishworms mashed up with old bacon oil, and tie on the wound, which
+is the surest and safest cure.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Oil for Collars.</h4>
+
+<p>This oil will also cure bruises, sores, swellings, strains or galls. Take
+fishworms and put them in a crock or other vessel 24 hours, till they
+become clean; then put them in a bottle and throw plenty of salt upon
+them, place them near a stove and they will turn to oil; rub the parts
+affected freely. I have cured knee-sprung horses with this oil frequently.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Sore and Scummed Eyes on Horses.</h4>
+
+<p>Take fresh butter or rabbit's fat, honey, and the white of three eggs,
+well stirred up with salt, and black pepper ground to a fine powder; mix
+it well and apply to the eye with a feather. Also rub above the eye (in
+the hollow,) with the salve. Wash freely with cold spring water.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For a Bruised Eye.</h4>
+
+<p>Take rabbit's fat, and use as above directed. Bathe freely with fresh
+spring water. I have cured many bloodshot eyes with this simple remedy.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Poll-evil or Fistula.</h4>
+
+<p>Take of Spanish flies 1 oz., gum euphorbium 3 drachms, tartar emetic 1
+oz., rosin 3 oz.; mix and pulverize, and then mix them with a half lb. of
+lard. Anoint every three days for three weeks; grease the parts affected
+with lard every four days. Wash with soap and water before using the
+salve. In poll-evil, if open, pulverize black bottle glass, put as much in
+each ear as will lay on a dime. The above is recommended in outside
+callous, such as spavin, ringbone, curbs, windgalls, etc. etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For the Fersey.</h4>
+
+<p>Take 1 quart of sassafras root bark, 1 quart burdock root, spice wood
+broke fine, 1 pint rattle weed root. Boil in 1-1/2 gallons of water; scald
+bran; when cool give it to the horse once a day for 3 or 4 days. Then
+bleed him in the neck and give him the horse powder as directed. In
+extreme cases, I also rowel in the breast and hind legs, to extract the
+corruption and remove the swelling. This is also an efficient remedy for
+blood diseases, etc., etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>To Make the Hair Grow on Man or Beast.</h4>
+
+<p>Take milk of sulphur 1/2 drachm, sugar of lead 1/2 drachm, rose water 1/2
+gill, mix and bathe well twice a day for ten days.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cholera or Diarrhea Tincture.</h4>
+
+<p>1 oz. of laudanum, 1 oz. of spirits of camphor, 1 oz. spirits of nitre,
+1/2 oz. essence of peppermint, 20 drops of chloroform; put all in a
+bottle, shake well, and take 1/2 teaspoonful in cold water once every six,
+twelve and twenty-four hours, according to the nature of the case.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cure for the Heaves.</h4>
+
+<p>Give 30 grains of tartar emetic every week until cured.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Process of causing a Horse to lay down.</h4>
+
+<p>Approach him gently upon the left side, fasten a strap around the ancle of
+his fore-foot; then raise the foot gently, so as to bring the knee against
+the breast and the foot against the belly. The leg being in this position,
+fasten the strap around his arm, which will effectually prevent him from
+putting that foot to the ground again. Then fasten a strap around the
+opposite leg, and bring it over his shoulder, on the left side, so that
+you can catch hold of it; then push these gently, and when he goes to
+fall, pull the strap, which will bring him on his knees.</p>
+
+<p>Now commence patting him under the belly; by continuing your gentle
+strokes upon the belly, you will, in a few minutes, bring him to his knees
+behind. Continue the process, and he will lie entirely down, and submit
+himself wholly to your treatment. By thus proceeding gently, you may
+handle his feet and legs in any way you choose.</p>
+
+<p>However wild and fractious a horse may be naturally, after practicing this
+process a few times, you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive,
+and even disposed to follow you anywhere, and unwilling to leave you on
+any occasion.</p>
+
+<p>Unless the horse be wild, the first treatment will be all sufficient; but
+should he be too fractious to be approached in a manner necessary to
+perform the first named operation, this you will find effectual, and you
+may then train your horse to harness or anything else with the utmost
+ease.</p>
+
+<p>In breaking horses for harness, after giving the powders, put the harness
+on gently, without startling him, and pat him gently, then fasten <i>the
+chain</i> to a log, which he will draw for an indefinite length of time. When
+you find him sufficiently gentle, place him to a wagon or other vehicle.</p>
+
+<p>NOTE.&mdash;Be <i>extremely</i> careful in catching a horse, not to affright him.
+After he is caught, and the powders given, rub him gently on the head,
+neck, back and legs, and on each side of the eyes, the way the hair lies,
+but be very careful not to whip, for a young horse is equally passionate
+with yourself, and this pernicious practice has ruined many fine and
+valuable horses. When you are riding a colt (or even an old horse), do not
+whip him if he scares, but draw the bridle, so that his eye may rest upon
+the object which has affrighted him, and pat him upon the neck as you
+approach it; by this means you will pacify him, and render him less liable
+to start in future.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Means of learning a Horse to pace.</h4>
+
+<p>Buckle a four pound weight around the ancles of his hind legs, (lead is
+preferable) ride your horse briskly with those weights upon his ancles, at
+the same time, twitching each rein of the bridle alternately, by this
+means you will immediately throw him into a pace. After you have trained
+him in this way to some extent, change your leaded weights for something
+lighter; leather padding, or something equal to it, will answer the
+purpose; let him wear these light weights until he is perfectly trained.
+This process will make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Horsemanship.</h4>
+
+<p>The rider should, in the first place, let the horse know that he is not
+afraid of him. Before mounting a horse, take the rein into the left hand,
+draw it tightly, put the left foot in the stirrup, and raise quickly. When
+you are seated press your knees to the saddle, let your leg, from the
+knee, stand out; turn your toe in and heel out; sit upright in your
+saddle, throw your weight forward&mdash;one third of it in the stirrups&mdash;and
+hold your rein tight. Should your horse scare, you are braced in your
+saddle and he cannot throw you.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Indication of a Horse's Disposition.</h4>
+
+<p>A long, thin neck indicates a good disposition, contrariwise, if it be
+short and thick. A broad forehead, high between the ears, indicates a very
+vicious disposition.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cures, &amp;c.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Cure for the Founder.</i>&mdash;Let 1-1/2 gallons of blood from the neck vein,
+make frequent applications of hot water to his forelegs; after which,
+bathe them in wet cloths, then give one quart Linseed Oil. The horse will
+be ready for service the next day.</p>
+
+<p><i>Botts.</i>&mdash;Mix one pint honey with one quart sweet milk, give as a drench,
+one hour after, dissolve 1 oz. pulverized Coperas in a pint of water, use
+likewise, then give one quart of Linseed Oil. Cure effectual.</p>
+
+<p><i>Colic.</i>&mdash;After bleeding copiously in the mouth, take a half pound of raw
+cotton, wrap it around a coal of fire in such a way as to exclude the air;
+when it begins to smoke, hold it under the horse's nose until he becomes
+easy. Cure certain in ten minutes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Distemper.</i>&mdash;Take 1-1/2 gallons blood from the neck vein, then give a
+dose of Sassafras Oil, 1-1/2 ounces is sufficient. Cure speedy and
+certain.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fistula.</i>&mdash;When it makes its appearance, rowel both sides of the
+shoulder; if it should break, take one ounce of verdigris, 1 ounce oil
+rosin, 1 ounce copperas, pulverize and mix together. Use it as a salve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Receipt for Bone Spavin or Ring-Bone.</h4>
+
+<p>Take a table-spoonful of corrosive sublimate; quicksilver about the size
+of a bean; 3 or 4 drops of muriatic acid; iodine about the size of a pea,
+and lard enough to form a paste; grind the iodine and sublimate fine as
+flour, and put altogether in a cup, mix well, then shear the hair all off
+the size you want; wash clean with soap-suds, rub dry, then apply the
+medicine. Let it stay on five days; if it does not take effect, take it
+off, mix it over with a little more lard, and add some fresh medicine.
+When the lump comes out, wash it clean in soap-suds, then apply a poultice
+of cow dung, leave it on twelve hours, then apply healing medicine.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Temperance Beverage.</h4>
+
+<p>One quart of water, three pounds of sugar, one teaspoonful of lemon oil,
+one table-spoonful of flour, with the white of four eggs, well beat up.
+Mix the above well together, then divide the syrup, and add four ounces of
+carbonic soda in one-half, and three ounces of tartaric acid in the other
+half; then bottle for use.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Sarsaparilla Syrup.</h4>
+
+<p>One ounce Sarsaparilla, two pounds brown sugar, ten drops wintergreen, and
+half pint of water.</p>
+
+
+<div style='height: 8pc;'><br /></div>
+
+<div id='ad'>
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+
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+
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+
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+Passional attractions and Perversions; True and False Physical and Social
+Conditions, and the most intimate relations of men and women. By T.L.
+Nichols, M.D. 482 pages, 81 engravings, cloth.</b></p>
+
+<p><span class='smcap'>This Book is all that its title Indicates.</span>&mdash;It treats of the
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+
+<p>The portion of the work on the generative system, is written with entire
+frankness and fully illustrated, and is unquestionably the most remarkable
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+written&mdash;so remarkable indeed, that it has seemed to many persons to be
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+
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+
+<blockquote><p>&quot;I look upon it,&quot; says Dr. <span class='smcap'>Stephens</span>, of Forest City, N.Y.,
+     &quot;as the most wonderful book ever written. It marks a new era in
+     literature and life.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;What a pity,&quot; says Dr. <span class='smcap'>Schell</span>, of Ind., &quot;that a copy
+     cannot be found in every family in the whole world!&quot;</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;This book,&quot; says Dr. <span class='smcap'>Dodge</span>, of Owego, N.Y., &quot;contains
+     more that is weighty in fact, and sound in philosophy; more that is
+     useful in medical science and effective in medical art; more that
+     is purificative and elevative of man than any one work, in volumes
+     few or many that has ever grace the Librarie Medicale of
+     civilization.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>     &quot;It contains,&quot; says Dr. <span class='smcap'>Baker</span>, of Racine, Wis. &quot;just such
+     knowledge as a suffering world needs, to enlighten, develop, and
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+
+<p>     Dr. <span class='smcap'>Farrar</span>, of Portland, Me., says, &quot;Esoteric Anthropology
+     is vital in every part, refreshing every man's and woman's soul
+     that reads it with a most grateful sense of its truth and
+     importance. I know of no work in the world like it, or comparable
+     with it.&quot;</p>
+
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+     true to nature&mdash;to her unerring laws; I hesitate not, therefore, to
+     pronounce it a noble work. It will be a great blessing to
+     humanity.&quot;&mdash;<span class='smcap'>Prof. Allen</span>, of Antioch College.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>The enthusiastic letters respecting it, received, would fill a volume,
+larger than book itself. Sacrificing every personal consideration, and
+changing his first intention, which was to keep it as strictly private and
+professional work, a physiological mystery, as its title indicates&mdash;the
+author offers <span class='smcap'>Esoteric Anthropology</span> to the whole public of
+readers; satisfied that no permanent evil can result to any human being,
+from the knowledge of the deepest truths, and most sacred mysteries of the
+science of life.</p>
+
+<p><b>MARK THIS</b>.&mdash;Nearly every other work on this subject directs the reader
+to apply to its author for a prescription in case of sickness, accompanied
+by a fee; while this, although its author is a practising physician,
+contains not a line of this kind; its whole tendency being to place every
+reader, whether male or female, entirely above the need of a physician.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' />
+
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+
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+
+<p><i>The attention of Lecturers and Book Agents is especially called to this
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild
+and Vicious Horses, by P. R. Kincaid
+John J. Stutzman
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses
+
+Author: P. R. Kincaid
+John J. Stutzman
+
+Release Date: January 24, 2005 [EBook #14776]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAMING HORSES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Kentuckiana Digital Library, David Garcia, Michael
+Ciesielski and the PG Online Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
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+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+<h1>THE ARABIAN ART</h1>
+<div style='height: 1pc;'><br /></div>
+<h2>OF</h2>
+<div style='height: 1pc;'><br /></div>
+<h1>TAMING AND TRAINING</h1>
+<div style='height: 1pc;'><br /></div>
+<h1>WILD &amp; VICIOUS HORSES.</h1>
+<div style='height: 2pc;'><br /></div>
+<h3>BY</h3>
+<div style='height: 2pc;'><br /></div>
+<h2>T. GILBERT, BRO. RAMSEY &amp; CO.</h2>
+
+
+
+<div style='height: 2pc;'><br /></div>
+
+<p class='frontmatter'>PRINTED AND SOLD FOR THE PUBLISHER BY<br />
+
+HENRY WATKINS<br />
+
+PRINTER, 225 &amp; 227 WEST FIFTH STREET, CINCINNATI, OHIO <br />
+1856.<br /></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION" />INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+<p>The first domestication of the horse, one of the greatest achievements of
+man in the animal kingdom, was not the work of a day; but like all other
+great accomplishments, was brought about by a gradual process of
+discoveries and experiments. He first subdued the more subordinate
+animals, on account of their being easily caught and tamed, and used for
+many years the mere drudges, the ox, the ass, and the camel, instead of
+the fleet and elegant horse. This noble animal was the last brought into
+subjection, owing, perhaps, to man's limited and inaccurate knowledge of
+his nature, and his consequent inability to control him. This fact alone
+is sufficient evidence of his superiority over all other animals.</p>
+
+<p>Man, in all his inventions and discoveries, has almost invariably
+commenced with some simple principle, and gradually developed it from one
+degree of perfection to another. The first hint that we have of the use of
+electricity was Franklin's drawing it from the clouds with his kite. Now
+it is the instrument of conveying thought from mind to mind, with a
+rapidity that surpasses time. The great propelling power that drives the
+wheel of the engine over our land, and ploughs the ocean with our
+steamers, was first discovered escaping from a tea-kettle. And so the
+powers of the horse, second only to the powers of steam, became known to
+man only as experiments, and investigation revealed them.</p>
+
+<p>The horse, according to the best accounts we can gather, has been the
+constant servant of man for nearly four thousand years, ever rewarding him
+with his labor and adding to his comfort in proportion to his skill and
+manner of using him; but being to those who govern him by brute force, and
+know nothing of the beauty and delight to be gained from the cultivation
+of his finer nature, a fretful, vicious, and often dangerous servant;
+whilst to the Arabs, whose horse is the pride of his life, and who governs
+him by the law of kindness, we find him to be quite a different animal.
+The manner in which he is treated from a foal gives him an affection and
+attachment for his master not known in any other country. The Arab and his
+children, the mare and her foal, inhabit the tent together; and although
+the foal and the mare's neck are often pillows for the children to roll
+upon, no accident ever occurs, the mare being as careful of the children
+as of the colt. Such is the mutual attachment between the horse and his
+master, that he will leave his companions at his master's call, ever glad
+to obey his voice. And when the Arab falls from his horse, and is unable
+to rise again, he will stand by him and neigh for assistance; and if he
+lays down to sleep, as fatigue sometimes compels him to do in the midst of
+the desert, his faithful steed will watch over him, and neigh to arouse
+him if man or beast approaches. The Arabs frequently teach their horses
+secret signs or signals, which they make use of on urgent occasions to
+call forth their utmost exertions. These are more efficient than the
+barbarous mode of urging them on with the spur and whip, a forcible
+illustration of which will be found in the following anecdote.</p>
+
+<p>A Bedouin, named Jabal, possessed a mare of great celebrity. Hassad Pacha,
+then Governor of Damascus, wished to buy the animal, and repeatedly made
+the owner the most liberal offers, which Jabal steadily refused. The Pacha
+then had recourse to threats, but with no better success. At length, one
+Gafar, a Bedouin of another tribe, presented himself to the Pacha, and
+asked what he would give the man who should make him master of Jabal's
+mare? &quot;I will fill his horse's nose-bag with gold,&quot; replied Hassad. The
+result of this interview having gone abroad; Jabal became more watchful
+than ever, and always secured his mare at night with an iron chain, one
+end of which was fastened to her hind fetlock, whilst the other, after
+passing through the tent cloth, was attached to a picket driven in the
+ground under the felt that served himself and wife for a bed. But one
+midnight, Gafar crept silently into the tent, and succeeded in loosening
+the chain. Just before starting off with his prize, he caught up Jabal's
+lance, and poking him with the butt end, cried out: &quot;I am Gafar! I have
+stolen your noble mare, and will give you notice in time.&quot; This warning
+was in accordance with the customs of the Desert; for to rob a hostile
+tribe is considered an honorable exploit, and the man who accomplishes it
+is desirous of all the glory that may flow from the deed. Poor Jabal, when
+he heard the words, rushed out of the tent and gave the alarm, then
+mounting his brother's mare, accompanied by some of his tribe, he pursued
+the robber for four hours. The brother's mare was of the same stock as
+Jabal's but was not equal to her; nevertheless, he outstripped those of
+all the other pursuers, and was even on the point of overtaking the
+robber, when Jabal shouted to him: &quot;Pinch her right ear and give her a
+touch of the heel.&quot; Gafar did so, and away went the mare like lightning,
+speedily rendering further pursuit hopeless. The <i>pinch in the ear</i> and
+the <i>touch with the heel</i> were the secret signs by which Jabal had been
+used to urge his mare to her utmost speed. Jabal's companions were amazed
+and indignant at his strange conduct. &quot;O thou father of a jackass!&quot; they
+cried, &quot;thou hast helped the thief to rob thee of thy jewel.&quot; But he
+silenced their upbraidings by saying: &quot;I would rather lose her than sully
+her reputation. Would you have me suffer it to be said among the tribes
+that another mare had proved fleeter than mine? I have at least this
+comfort left me, that I can say she never met with her match.&quot;</p>
+
+<p>Different countries have their different modes of horsemanship, but
+amongst all of them its first practice was carried on in but a rude and
+indifferent way, being hardly a stepping stone to the comfort and delight
+gained from the use of the horse at the present day. The polished Greeks
+as well as the ruder nations of Northern Africa, for a long while rode
+without either saddle or bridle, guiding their horses, with the voice or
+the hand, or with a light switch with which they touched the animal on the
+side of the face to make him turn in the opposite direction. They urged
+him forward by a touch of the heel, and stopped him by catching him by the
+muzzle. Bridles and bits were at length introduced, but many centuries
+elapsed before anything that could be called a saddle was used. Instead of
+these, cloths, single or padded, and skins of wild beasts, often richly
+adorned, were placed beneath the rider, but always without stirrups; and
+it is given as an extraordinary fact, that the Romans even in the times
+when luxury was carried to excess amongst them, never desired so simple an
+expedient for assisting the horseman to mount, to lessen his fatigue and
+aid him in sitting more securely in his saddle. Ancient sculptors prove
+that the horsemen of almost every country were accustomed to mount their
+horses from the right side of the animal, that they might the better grasp
+the mane, which hangs on that side, a practice universally changed in
+modern times. The ancients generally leaped on their horse's backs, though
+they sometimes carried a spear, with a loop or projection about two feet
+from the bottom which served them as a step. In Greece and Rome, the local
+magistracy were bound to see that blocks for mounting (what the Scotch
+call <i>loupin</i>-on-stanes) were placed along the road at convenient
+distances. The great, however, thought it more dignified to mount their
+horses by stepping on the bent backs of their servants or slaves, and many
+who could not command such costly help used to carry a light ladder about
+with them. The first distinct notice that we have of the use of the saddle
+occurs in the edict of the Emperor Theodosias, (A.D. 385) from which we
+also learn that it was usual for those who hired post-horses, to provide
+their own saddle, and that the saddle should not weigh more than sixty
+pounds, a cumbrous contrivance, more like the howdahs placed on the backs
+of elephants than the light and elegant saddle of modern times.
+Side-saddles for ladies are an invention of comparatively recent date. The
+first seen in England was made for Anne of Bohemia, wife of Richard the
+Second, and was probably more like a pillion than the side-saddle of the
+present day. A pillion is a sort of a very low-backed arm-chair, and was
+fastened on the horse's croup, behind the saddle, on which a man rode who
+had all the care of managing the horse, while the lady sat at her ease,
+supporting herself by grasping a belt which he wore, or passing her arm
+around his body, if the <i>gentleman was not too ticklish</i>. But the Mexicans
+manage these things with more gallantry than the ancients did. The
+&quot;pisanna,&quot; or country lady, we are told is often seen mounted before her
+&quot;cavalera,&quot; who take the more natural position of being seated behind his
+fair one, supporting her by throwing his arm around her waist, (a very
+appropriate support if the bent position of the arm does not cause an
+occasional contraction of the muscles.) These two positions may justly be
+considered as the first steps taken by the ladies towards their improved
+and elegant mode of riding at the present day.</p>
+
+<p>At an early period when the diversion of hawking was prevalent, they
+dressed themselves in the costume of the knight, and rode astride. Horses
+were in general use for many centuries before anything like a protection
+for the hoof was thought of, and it was introduced, at first, as a matter
+of course, on a very simple scale. The first foot defense, it is said,
+which was given to the horse, was on the same principle as that worn by
+man, which was a sort of sandal, made of leather and tied to the horse's
+foot, by means of straps or strings. And finally plates of metal were
+fastened to the horse's feet by the same simple means.</p>
+
+<p>Here again, as in the case of the sturrupless saddle, when we reflect that
+men should, for nearly a thousand years, have gone on fastening plates of
+metal under horses' hoofs by the clumsy means of straps and strings,
+without its ever occurring to them to try so simple an improvement as
+nails, we have another remarkable demonstration of the slow steps by which
+horsemanship has reached its present state.</p>
+
+<p>In the forgoing remarks I have taken the liberty of extracting several
+facts from a valuable little work by Rolla Springfield. With this short
+comment on the rise and progress of horsemanship, from its commencement up
+to the present time, I will proceed to give you the principles of a new
+theory of taming wild horses, which is the result of many experiments and
+a thorough investigation and trial of the different methods of
+horsemanship now in use.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_THREE_FUNDAMENTAL_PRINCIPLES" id="THE_THREE_FUNDAMENTAL_PRINCIPLES" />THE THREE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES
+OF MY THEORY</h2>
+
+<h3>Founded on the Leading Characteristics of the Horse.</h3>
+
+
+<p>FIRST.&mdash;That he is so constituted by nature that he will not offer
+resistance to any demand made of him which he fully comprehends, if made
+in a way consistent with the laws of his nature.</p>
+
+<p>SECOND.&mdash;That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his
+experience, and can be handled according to our will, without force.</p>
+
+<p>THIRD.&mdash;That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature by which he
+examines all things new to him, take any object, however frightful,
+around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain, without causing him to
+fear.</p>
+
+<p>To take these assertions in order, I will first give you some of the
+reasons why I think he is naturally obedient, and will not offer
+resistance to anything fully comprehended. The horse, though possessed of
+some faculties superior to man's being deficient in reasoning powers, has
+no knowledge of right or wrong, of free will and independent government,
+and knows not of any imposition practiced upon him, however unreasonable
+these impositions may be. Consequently, he cannot come to any decision
+what he should or should not do, because he has not the reasoning
+faculties of man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of him. If he
+had, taking into consideration his superior strength, he would be useless
+to man as a servant. Give him <i>mind</i> in proportion to his strength, and he
+will demand of us the green fields for an inheritance, where he will roam
+at leisure, denying the right of servitude at all. God has wisely formed
+his nature so that it can be operated upon by the knowledge of man
+according to the dictates of his will, and he might well be termed an
+unconscious, submissive servant. This truth we can see verified in every
+day's experience by the abuses practiced upon him. Any one who chooses to
+be so cruel, can mount the noble steed and run him 'till he drops with
+fatigue, or, as is often the case with more spirited, fall dead with the
+rider. If he had the power to reason, would he not vault and pitch his
+rider, rather than suffer him to run him to death? Or would he condescend
+to carry at all the vain imposter, who, with but equal intellect, was
+trying to impose on his equal rights and equally independent spirit? But
+happily for us, he has no consciousness of imposition, no thought of
+disobedience except by impulse caused by the violation of the law of
+nature. Consequently when disobedient it is the fault of man.</p>
+
+<p>Then, we can but come to the conclusion, that if a horse is not taken in a
+way at variance with the law of his nature, he will do anything that he
+fully comprehends without making any offer of resistance.</p>
+
+<p><i>Second.</i> The fact of the horse being unconscious of the amount of his
+strength, can be proven to the satisfaction of any one. For instance, such
+remarks as these are common, and perhaps familiar to your recollection.
+One person says to another, &quot;If that wild horse there was conscious of the
+amount of his strength, his owner could have no business with him in that
+vehicle; such light reins and harness, too; if he knew he could snap them
+asunder in a minute and be as free as the air we breathe;&quot; and, &quot;that
+horse yonder that is pawing and fretting to follow the company that is
+fast leaving him, if he knew his strength he would not remain long
+fastened to that hitching post so much against his will, by a strap that
+would no more resist his powerful weight and strength, than a cotton
+thread would bind a strong man.&quot; Yet these facts made common by every day
+occurrence, are not thought of as anything wonderful. Like the ignorant
+man who looks at the different phases of the moon, you look at these
+things as he looks at her different changes, without troubling your mind
+with the question, &quot;Why are these things so?&quot; What would be the condition
+of the world if all our minds lay dormant? If men did not think, reason
+and act, our undisturbed, slumbering intellects would not excel the
+imbecility of the brute; we would live in chaos, hardly aware of our
+existence. And yet with all our activity of mind, we daily pass by
+unobserved that which would be wonderful if philosophised and reasoned
+upon, and with the same inconsistency wonder at that which a little
+consideration, reason and philosophy would be but a simple affair.</p>
+
+<p><i>Thirdly.</i> He will allow any object, however frightful in appearance, to
+come around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain.</p>
+
+<p>We know from a natural course of reasoning, that there has never been an
+effected without a cause, and we infer from this, that there can be no
+action, either in animate or inanimate matter, without there first being
+some cause to produce it. And from this self-evident fact we know that
+there is some cause for every impulse or movement of either mind or
+matter, and that this law governs every action or movement of the animal
+kingdom. Then, according to this theory, there must be some cause before
+fear can exist; and, if fear exists from the effect of imagination, and
+not from the infliction of real pain, it can be removed by complying with
+those laws of nature by which the horse examines an object, and determines
+upon its innocence or harm.</p>
+
+<p>A log or stump by the road-side may be, in the imagination of the horse,
+some great beast about to pounce upon him; but after you take him up to it
+and let him stand by it a little while, and touch it with his nose, and go
+through his process of examination, he will not care any thing more about
+it. And the same principle and process will have the same effect with any
+other object, however frightful in appearance, in which there is no harm.
+Take a boy that has been frightened by a false-face or any other object
+that he could not comprehend at once; but let him take that face or object
+in his hands and examine it, and he will not care anything more about it.
+This is a demonstration of the same principle.</p>
+
+<p>With this introduction to the principles of my theory, I shall next
+attempt to teach you how to put it into practice, and whatever
+instructions may follow, you can rely on as having been proven practical
+by my own experiments. And knowing from experience just what obstacles I
+have met with in handling bad horses, I shall try to anticipate them for
+you, and assist you in surmounting them, by commencing with the first
+steps taken with the colt, and accompanying you through the whole task of
+breaking.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Succeed in Getting the Colt from Pasture.</h4>
+
+<p>Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, and at such a
+distance as not to cause them to scare and run. Then approach them very
+slowly, and if they stick up their heads and seem to be frightened, hold
+on until they become quiet, so as not to make them run before you are
+close enough to drive them in the direction you want to go. And when you
+begin to drive, do not flourish your arms or hollow, but gently follow
+them off leaving the direction free for them that you wish them to take.
+Thus taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to get them in
+the pound as easily as the hunter drives the quails into his net. For, if
+they have always run into the pasture uncared for, (as many horses do in
+prairie countries and on large plantations,) there is no reason why they
+should not be as wild as the sportsman's birds and require the same gentle
+treatment, if you want to get them without trouble; for the horse in his
+natural state is as wild as any of the undomesticated animals, though more
+easily tamed than most of them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Stable a Colt without Trouble.</h4>
+
+<p>The next step will be, to get the horse into a stable or shed. This should
+be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion in the
+horse of any danger befalling him. The best way to do this, is to lead a
+gentle horse into the stable first and hitch him, then quietly walk around
+the colt and let him go in of his own accord. It is almost impossible to
+get men, who have never practiced on this principle, to go slow and
+considerate enough about it. They do not know that in handling a wild
+horse, above all other things, is that good old adage true, that &quot;haste
+makes waste;&quot; that is, waste of time, for the gain of trouble and
+perplexity.</p>
+
+<p>One wrong move may frighten your horse, and make him think it is necessary
+to escape at all hazards for the safety of his life, and thus make two
+hours work of a ten minutes job; and this would be all your own fault, and
+entirely unnecessary; for he will not run unless you run after him, and
+that would not be good policy, unless you knew that you could outrun him;
+or you will have to let him stop of his own accord after all. But he will
+not try to break away, unless you attempt to force him into measures. If
+he does not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in,
+do not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside, by
+gently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at
+your side; for you might as well raise a club. The horse has never studied
+anatomy, and does not know but they will unhinge themselves and fly at
+him. It he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run; and if
+he gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he will
+soon find that you are not going to hurt him; and you can soon walk so
+close around him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get
+farther from you. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut the
+door. This will be his first notion of confinement&mdash;not knowing how to get
+in such a place, nor how to get out of it. That he may take it as quietly
+as possible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, or
+anything that would annoy him; then give him a few ears of corn, and let
+him remain alone fifteen or twenty minutes, until he has examined his
+apartment, and has become reconciled to his confinement.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Time to Reflect.</h4>
+
+<p>And now, while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, is the proper
+time to see that your halter is ready and all right, and to reflect on the
+best mode of operations; for, in the horsebreaking, it is highly
+important that you should be governed by some system. And you should know
+before you attempt to do anything, just what you are going to do, and how
+you are going to do it. And, if you are experienced in the art of taming
+wild horses, you ought to be able to tell within a few minutes the length
+of time it would take you to halter the colt, and learn him to lead.</p>
+
+
+<h4>The kind of Halter.</h4>
+
+<p>Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that it will
+not draw tight around his nose if he pulls on it. It should be of the
+right size to fit his head easily and nicely; so that the nose band will
+not be too tight or too low. Never put a rope halter on an unbroken colt
+under any circumstances whatever. They have caused more horses to hurt or
+kill themselves, than would pay for twice the cost of all the leather
+halters that have ever been needed for the purpose of haltering colts. It
+is almost impossible to break a colt that is very wild with a rope halter,
+without having him pull, rear and throw himself, and thus endanger his
+life; and I will tell you why. It is just as natural for a horse to try to
+get his head out of anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as it
+would be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire. The cords of the
+rope are hard and cutting; this makes him raise his head and draw on it,
+and as soon as he pulls, the slip noose (the way rope halters are always
+made) tightens, and pinches his nose, and then he will struggle for life,
+until, perchance, he throws himself; and who would have his horse throw
+himself, and run the risk of breaking his neck, rather than pay the price
+of a leather halter. But this is not the worst. A horse that has once
+pulled on his halter, can never be as well broke as one that has never
+pulled at all.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Remarks on the Horse.</h4>
+
+<p>But before we attempt to do anything more with the colt, I will give you
+some of the characteristics of his nature, that you may better understand
+his motions. Every one that has ever paid any attention to the horse, has
+noticed his natural inclination to smell of everything which to him looks
+new and frightful. This is their strange mode of examining everything.
+And, when they are frightened at anything, though they look at it sharply,
+they seem to have no confidence in this optical examination alone, but
+must touch it with the nose before they are entirely satisfied; and, as
+soon as this is done, all is right.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Experiments with the Robe.</h4>
+
+<p>If you want to satisfy yourself of this characteristic of the horse, and
+learn something of importance concerning the peculiarities of his nature,
+etc., turn him into the barn-yard, or a large stable will do, and then
+gather up something that you know will frighten him; a red blanket,
+buffalo robe, or something of that kind. Hold it up so that he can see it;
+he will stick up his head and snort. Then throw it down somewhere in the
+center of the lot or barn, and walk off to one side. Watch his motions,
+and study his nature. If he is frightened at the object, he will not rest
+until he has touched it with his nose. You will see him begin to walk
+around the robe and snort, all the time getting a little closer, as if
+drawn up by some magic spell, until he finally gets within reach of it. He
+will then very cautiously stretch out his neck as far as he can reach,
+merely touching it with his nose, as though he thought it was ready to fly
+at him. But after he has repeated these touches a few times, for the first
+(though he has been looking at it all the time) he seems to have an idea
+what it is. But now he has found, by the sense of feeling, that it is
+nothing that will do him any harm, and he is ready to play with it. And if
+you watch him closely, you will see him take hold of it with his teeth,
+and raise it up and pull at it. And in a few minutes you can see that he
+has not that same wild look about his eye, but stands like a horse biting
+at some familiar stump.</p>
+
+<p>Yet the horse is never well satisfied when he is about anything that has
+frightened him, as when he is standing with his nose to it. And, in nine
+cases out of ten, you will see some of that same wild look about him
+again, as he turns to walk from it. And you will, probably, see him
+looking back very suspiciously as he walks away, as though he thought it
+might come after him yet. And, in all probability, he will have to go back
+and make another examination before he is satisfied. But he will
+familiarize himself with it, and, if he should run in that lot a few days,
+the robe that frightened him so much at first, will be no more to him than
+a familiar stump.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Suppositions on the Sense of Smelling.</h4>
+
+<p>We might very naturally suppose, from the fact of the horse's applying his
+nose to every thing new to him, that he always does so for the purpose of
+smelling these objects. But I believe that it is as much or more for the
+purpose of feeling; and that he makes use of his nose or muzzle, (as it is
+sometimes called.) as we would of our hands; because it is the only organ
+by which he can touch or feel anything with much susceptibility.</p>
+
+<p>I believe that he invariably makes use of the four senses, seeing,
+hearing, smelling and feeling, in all of his examinations, of which the
+sense of feeling is, perhaps, the most important. And I think that in the
+experiment with the robe, his gradual approach and final touch with his
+nose was as much for the purpose of feeling, as anything else, his sense
+of smell being so keen, that it would not be necessary for him to touch
+his nose against anything in order to get the proper scent; for it is said
+that a horse can smell a man the distance of a mile. And, if the scent of
+the robe was all that was necessary, he could get that several rods off.
+But, we know from experience, that if a horse sees and smells a robe a
+short distance from him, he is very much frightened, (unless he is used to
+it,) until he touches or feels it with his nose; which is a positive proof
+that feeling is the controlling sense in this case.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Prevailing Opinion of Horsemen.</h4>
+
+<p>It is a prevailing opinion among horsemen generally, that the sense of
+smell is the governing sense of the horse. And Faucher, as well as others,
+have, with that view, got up receipts of strong smelling oils, etc., to
+tame the horse, sometimes using the chesnut of his leg, which they dry,
+grind into powder and blow into his nostrils. Sometimes using the oil of
+rhodium, organnnum, etc.; that are noted for their strong smell. And
+sometimes they scent the hands with the sweat from under the arm, or blow
+their breath into his nostrils, etc., etc. All of which, as far as the
+scent goes have no effect whatever in gentling the horse, or conveying any
+idea to his mind; though the works that accompany these efforts&mdash;handling
+him, touching him about the nose and head, and patting him, as they direct
+you should, after administering the articles, may have a very great
+effect, which they mistake to be the effect of the ingredients used. And
+Faucher, in his work entitled, &quot;The Arabian art of taming Horses,&quot; page
+17, tells us how to accustom a horse to a robe, by administering certain
+articles to his nose; and goes on to say, that these articles must first
+be applied to the horse's nose before you attempt to break him, in order
+to operate successfully.</p>
+
+<p>Now, reader, can you, or any one else, give one single reason how scent
+can convey any idea to the horse's mind of what we want him to do? If not,
+then of course strong scents of any kind are of no account in taming the
+unbroken horse. For every thing that we get him to do of his own accord,
+without force, must be accomplished by some means of conveying our ideas
+to his mind. I say to my horse &quot;go 'long&quot; and he goes; &quot;ho!&quot; and he stops:
+because these two words, of which he has learned the meaning by the tap
+of the whip, and the pull of the rein that first accompanied them, convey
+the two ideas to his mind of go and stop.</p>
+
+<p>Faucher, or no one else, can ever learn the horse a single thing by the
+means of a scent alone.</p>
+
+<p>How long do you suppose a horse would have to stand and smell of a bottle
+of oil before he would learn to bend his knee and make a bow at your
+bidding, &quot;go yonder and bring your hat,&quot; or &quot;come here and lay down?&quot; Thus
+you see the absurdity of trying to break or tame the horse by the means of
+receipts for articles to smell of, or medicine to give him, of any kind
+whatever.</p>
+
+<p>The only science that has ever existed in the world, relative to the
+breaking of horses, that has been of any account, is that true method
+which takes them in their native state, and improves their intelligence.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Powel's System of Approaching the Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>But, before we go further, I will give you Willis J. Powel's system of
+approaching a wild colt, as given by him in a work published in Europe,
+about the year 1811, on the &quot;Art of taming wild horses.&quot; He says, &quot;A horse
+is gentled by my secret, in from two to sixteen hours.&quot; The time I have
+most commonly employed has been from four to six hours. He goes on to say:
+&quot;Cause your horse to be put in a small yard, stable, or room. If in a
+stable or room, it ought to be large in order to give him some exercise
+with the halter before you lead him out. If the horse belong to that class
+which appears only to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into
+the stable, room, or yard, where the horse is. He will naturally run from
+you, and frequently turn his head from you; but you must walk about
+extremely slow and softly, so that he can see you whenever he turns his
+head towards you, which he never fails to do in a short time, say in a
+quarter of an hour. I never knew one to be much longer without turning
+towards me.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your left hand towards
+him, and stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, watching
+his motions if he makes any. If the horse does not stir for ten or fifteen
+minutes, advance as slowly as possible, and without making the least
+noise, always holding out your left hand, without any other ingredient in
+it than that what nature put in it.&quot; He says, &quot;I have made use of certain,
+ingredients before people, such as the sweat under my arm, etc., to
+disguise the real secret, and many believed that the docility to which
+the horse arrived in so short a time, was owing to these ingredients; but
+you see from this explanation that they were of no use whatever. The
+implicit faith placed in these ingredients, though innocent of themselves,
+becomes 'faith without works.' And thus men remained always in doubt
+concerning this secret. If the horse makes the least motion when you
+advance toward him, stop, and remain perfectly still until he is quiet.
+Remain a few moments in this condition, and then advance again in the same
+slow and imperceptible manner. Take notice: if the horse stirs, stop
+without changing your position. It is very uncommon for the horse to stir
+more than once after you begin to advance, yet there are exceptions. He
+generally keeps his eyes steadfast on you, until you get near enough to
+touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise slowly,
+and by degrees, your hand, and let it come in contact with that part just
+above the nostrils as lightly as possible. If the horse flinches, (as many
+will,) repeat with great rapidity these light strokes upon the forehead,
+going a little further up towards his ears by degrees, and descending with
+the same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. Now
+let the strokes be repeated with more force over all his forehead,
+descending by lighter strokes to each side of his head, until you can
+handle that part with equal facility. Then touch in the same light manner,
+making your hands and fingers play around the lower part of the horse's
+ears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be looked upon
+as the helm that governs all the rest.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Having succeeded in handling his ears, advance towards the neck, with the
+same precautions, and in the same manner; observing always to augment the
+force of the strokes whenever the horse will permit it. Perform the same
+on both sides of the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms without
+flinching.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to the back
+of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness return
+immediately to the forehead as the true standard, patting him with your
+hands, and from thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, always
+gaining ground a considerable distance farther on every time this happens.
+The head, ears, neck and body being thus gentled, proceed from the back to
+the root of the tail.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;This must be managed with dexterity, as a horse is never to be depended
+on that is skittish about the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidly
+on that part next to the body a minute or two, and then you will begin to
+give it a slight pull upwards every quarter of a minute. At the same time
+you continue this handling of him, augment the force of the strokes, as
+well as the raising of the tail, until you can raise it and handle it with
+the greatest ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in most
+horses; in others almost immediately, and in some much longer. It now
+remains to handle all his legs. From the tail come back again to the head,
+handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc., speaking now and
+then to the horse. Begin by degrees to descend to the legs, always
+ascending and descending, gaining ground every time you descend until you
+get to his feet.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;Talk to the horse in Latin, Greek, French, English, or Spanish, or in any
+other language you please; but let him hear the sound of your voice, which
+at the beginning of the operation is not quite so necessary, but which I
+have always done in making him lift up his feet. Hold up your foot&mdash;'Live
+la pied'&mdash;'Alza el pie'&mdash;'Aron ton poda,' etc., at the same time lift his
+foot with your hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and will
+hold his foot up at command. Then proceed to the hind feet and go on in
+the same manner, and in a short time the horse will let you lift them and
+even take them up in your arms.</p>
+
+<p>&quot;All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism; it is merely taking
+away the fear a horse generally has of a man, and familiarizing the animal
+with his master; as the horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasure
+from this handling, he will soon become gentle under it, and show a very
+marked attachment to his keeper.&quot;</p>
+
+
+<h4>Remarks on Powel's Treatment how to govern Horses of Any Kind.</h4>
+
+<p>These instructions are very good, but not quite sufficient for horses of
+all kinds, and for haltering and leading the colt; but I have inserted it
+here, because it gives some of the true philosophy of approaching the
+horse, and of establishing confidence between man and horse. He speaks
+only of the kind that fear man.</p>
+
+<p>To those who understand the philosophy of horsemanship, these are the
+easiest trained; for when we have a horse that is wild and lively, we can
+train him to our will in a very short time; for they are generally quick
+to learn, and always ready to obey. But there is another kind that are of
+a stubborn or vicious disposition, and, although they are not wild, and do
+not require taming, in the sense it is generally understood, they are just
+as ignorant as a wild horse, if not more so, and need to be learned just
+as much; and in order to have them obey quickly, it is very necessary that
+they should be made to fear their masters; for, in order to obtain perfect
+obedience from any horse, we must first have him fear us, for our motto is
+<i>fear, love, and obey</i>; and we must have the fulfilment of the first two
+before we can expect the latter, and it is by our philosophy of creating
+fear, love and confidence, that we govern to our will every kind of a
+horse whatever.</p>
+
+<p>Then, in order to take horses as we find them, or all kinds, and to train
+them to our likings, we will always take with us, when we go into a stable
+to train a colt, a long switch whip, (whale-bone buggy whips is the best,)
+with a good silk cracker, so as to cut keen and make a sharp report,
+which, if handled with dexterity, and rightly applied, accompanied with a
+sharp, fierce word, will be sufficient to enliven the spirits of any
+horse. With this whip in your right hand, with the lash pointing backward,
+enter the stable alone. It is a great disadvantage in training a horse, to
+have any one in the stable with you; you should be entirely alone, so as
+not to have nothing but yourself to attract his attention. If he is wild
+you will soon see him in the opposite side of the stable from you; and now
+is the time to use a little judgement. I would not want for myself, more
+than half or three-quarters of an hour to handle any kind of a colt, and
+have him running about in the stable after me; though I would advise a new
+beginner to take more time, and not to be in too much of a hurry. If you
+have but one colt to gentle, and are not particular about the length of
+time you spend, and have not had any experience in handling colts, I would
+advise you to take Mr. Powel's method at first, till you gentle him, which
+he says takes from two to six hours. But, as I want to accomplish the
+same, and what is much more, learn the horse to lead in less than one
+hour, I shall give you a much quicker process of accomplishing the same
+end. Accordingly, when you have entered the stable, stand still and let
+your horse look at you a minute or two, and as soon as he is settled in
+one place, approach him slowly, with both arms stationary, your right
+hanging by your side, holding the whip as directed, and the left bent at
+the elbow, with your hand projecting. As you approach him, go not too much
+towards his head or croop, so as not to make him move either forward or
+backward, thus keeping your horse stationary, if he does move a little
+forward or backward, step a little to the right or left very cautiously;
+this will keep him in one place, as you get very near him, draw a little
+to his shoulder, and stop a few seconds. If you are in his reach he will
+turn his head and smell at your hand, not that he has any preference for
+your hand, but because that it is projecting, and is the nearest portion
+of your body to the horse. This all colts will do, and they will smell of
+your naked hand just as quick as they will of any thing that you can put
+in it, and with just as good an effect, however much some men have
+preached the doctrine of taming horses by giving them the scent articles
+from the hand. I have already proved that to be a mistake. As soon as he
+touches his nose to your hand, caress him as before directed, always using
+a very light, soft hand, merely touching the horse, all ways rubbing the
+way the hair lays, so that your hand will pass along as smoothly as
+possible. As you stand by his side you may find it more convenient to rub
+his neck or the side of his head, which will answer the same purpose, as
+rubbing his forehead. Favor every inclination of the horse to smell or
+touch you with his nose. Always follow each touch or communication of this
+kind with the most tender and affectionate caresses, accompanied with a
+kind look, and pleasant word of some sort, such as: Ho! my little boy, ho!
+my little boy, pretty boy, nice lady! or something of that kind,
+constantly repeating the same words, with the same kind, steady tone of
+voice; for the horse soon learns to read the expression of the face and
+voice, and will know as well when fear, love or anger, prevails as you
+know your own feelings; two of which, <i>fear and anger</i>, a good horseman
+<i>should never feel</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Proceed if your Horse is of a Stubborn Disposition.</h4>
+
+<p>If your horse, instead of being wild, seems to be of a stubborn or
+<i>mulish</i> disposition; if he lays back his ears as you approach him, or
+turns his heels to kick you, he has not that regard or fear of man that he
+should have, to enable you to handle him quickly and easily; and it might
+be well to give him a few sharp cuts with the whip, about the legs, pretty
+close to the body. It will crack keen as it plies around his legs, and the
+crack of the whip will affect him as much as the stroke; besides one sharp
+cut about his legs will affect him more than two or three over his back,
+the skin on the inner part of his legs or about his flank being thinner,
+more tender than on his back. But do not whip him much, just enough to
+scare him, it is not because we want to hurt the horse that we whip him,
+we only do it to scare that bad disposition out of him. But whatever you
+do, do quickly, sharply and with a good deal of fire, but always without
+anger. If you are going to scare him at all you must do it at once. Never
+go into a pitch battle with your horse, and whip him until he is mad and
+will fight you; you had better not touch him at all, for you will
+establish, instead of fear and regard, feelings of resentment, hatred and
+ill-will. It will do him no good but an injury, to strike a blow, unless
+you can scare him; but if you succeed in scaring him, you can whip him
+without making him mad; for fear and anger never exist together in the
+horse, and as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other has
+disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him so that he will stand up
+straight and pay some attention to you, approach him again and caress him
+a good deal more than you whipped him, then you will excite the two
+controlling passions of his nature, love and fear, and then he will fear
+and love you too, and as soon as he learns what to do will quickly obey.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Halter and Lead the Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>As soon as you have gentled the colt a little, take the halter in your
+left hand and approach him as before, and on the same side that you have
+gentled him. If he is very timid about your approaching closely to him,
+you can get up to him quicker by making the whip a part of your arm, and
+reaching out very gently with the but end of it, rubbing him lightly on
+the neck, all the time getting a little closer, shortening the whip by
+taking it up in your hand, until you finally get close enough to put your
+hands on him. If he is inclined to hold his head from you, put the end of
+the halter strap around his neck, drop your whip, and draw very gently; he
+will let his neck give, and you can pull his head to you. Then take hold
+of that part of the halter, which buckles over the top of his head, and
+pass the long side, or that part which goes into the buckle, under his
+neck, grasping it on the opposite side with your right hand, letting the
+first strap loose&mdash;the latter will be sufficient to hold his head to you.
+Lower the halter a little, just enough to get his nose into that part
+which goes around it, then raise it somewhat, and fasten the top buckle,
+and you will have it all right. The first time you halter a colt you
+should stand on the left side, pretty well back to his shoulder only
+taking hold of that part of the halter that goes around his neck, then
+with your hands about his neck you can hold his head to you, and raise the
+halter on it without making him dodge by putting your hands about his
+nose. You should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you have
+the halter on, attach this to it, so that you can let him walk the length
+of the stable without letting go of the strap, or without making him pull
+on the halter, for if you only let him feel the weight of your hand on the
+halter, and give him rope when he runs from you, he will never rear, pull,
+or throw himself, yet you will be holding him all the time, and doing more
+towards gentling him, than if you had the power to snub him right up, and
+hold him to one spot; because, he does not know any thing about his
+strength, and if you don't do any thing to make him pull, he will never
+know that he can. In a few minutes you can begin to control him with the
+halter, then shorten the distance between yourself and the horse, by
+taking up the strap in your hand.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as he will allow you to hold him by a tolerably short strap, and
+step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give him some idea
+about leading. But to do this, do not go before and attempt to pull him
+after you, but commence by pulling him very quietly to one side. He has
+nothing to brace either side of his neck, and will soon yield to a steady,
+gradual pull of the halter; and as soon as you have pulled him a step or
+two to one side, step up to him and caress him, and then pull him again,
+repeating this operation until you can pull him around in every direction,
+and walk about the stable with him, which you can do in a few minutes, for
+he will soon think when you have made him step to the right or left a few
+times, that he is compelled to follow the pull of the halter, not knowing
+that he has the power to resist your pulling; besides, you have handled
+him so gently, that he is not afraid of you, and you always caress him
+when he comes up to you, and he likes that, and would just as leave follow
+you as not. And after he has had a few lessons of that kind, if you turn
+him out in a lot he will come up to you every opportunity he gets. You
+should lead him about in the stable some time before you take him out,
+opening the door, so that he can see out, leading him up to it and back
+again, and past it. See that there is nothing on the outside to make him
+jump, when you take him out, and as you go out with him, try to make him
+go very slowly, catching hold of the halter close to the jaw, with your
+left hand, while the right is resting on the top of the neck, holding to
+his mane. After you are out with him a little while, you can lead him
+about as you please. Don't let any second person come up to you when you
+first take him out; a stranger taking hold of the halter would frighten
+him, and make him run. There should not even be any one standing near him
+to attract his attention, or scare him. If you are alone, and manage him
+right, it will not require any more force to lead or hold him than it
+would to manage a broke horse.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to lead a Colt by the side of a broken Horse.</h4>
+
+<p>If you should want to lead your colt by the side of another horse, as is
+often the case, I would advise you to take your horse into the stable,
+attach a second strap to the colt's halter, and lead your horse up
+alongside of him. Then get on the broke horse and take one strap around
+his breast, under his martingale, (if he has any on,) holding it in your
+left hand. This will prevent the colt from getting back too far; besides,
+you will have more power to hold him, with the strap pulling against the
+horse's breast. The other strap take up in your right hand to prevent him
+from running ahead; then turn him about a few times in the stable, and if
+the door is wide enough, ride out with him in that position; if not, take
+the broke horse out first, and stand his breast up against the door, then
+lead the colt to the same spot, and take the straps as before directed,
+one on each side of his neck, then let some one start the colt out, and as
+he comes out, turn your horse to the left, and you will have them all
+right. This is the best way to lead a colt; you can manage any kind of a
+colt in this way, without any trouble; for, if he tries to run ahead, or
+pull back, the two straps will bring the horses facing each other, so that
+you can easily follow up his movements without doing much holding, and as
+soon as he stops running backward you are right with him, and all ready to
+go ahead. And if he gets stubborn and does not want to go, you can remove
+all his stubbornness by riding your horse against his neck, thus
+compelling him to turn to the right, and as soon as you have turned him
+about a few times, he will be willing to go along. The next thing, after
+you are through leading him, will be to take him into a stable, and hitch
+him in such a way as not to have him pull on the halter, and as they are
+often troublesome to get into a stable the first few times, I will give
+you some instructions about getting him in.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to lead a Colt into the Stable and hitch Him without having Him pull
+on the Halter.</h4>
+
+<p>You should lead the broke horse into the stable first, and get the colt,
+if you can, to follow in after him. If he refuses to go, step up to him,
+taking a little stick or switch in your right hand; then take hold of the
+halter close to his head with your left hand, at the same time reaching
+over his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the opposite
+side with your switch; bring him up facing the door, tap him lightly with
+your switch, reaching as far back with it as you can. This tapping, by
+being pretty well back, and on the opposite side, will drive him ahead,
+and keep him close to you, then by giving him the right direction with
+your left hand you can walk into the stable with him. I have walked colts
+into the stable this way, in less than a minute, after men had worked at
+them half an hour, trying to pull them in. If you cannot walk him it at
+once this way, turn him about and walk him round in every direction, until
+you can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then let him stand
+a few minutes, keeping his head in the right direction with the halter,
+and he will walk in, in less than ten minutes. Never attempt to pull the
+colt into the stable; that would make him think at once that it was a
+dangerous place, and if he was not afraid of it before, he would be then.
+Besides we don't want him to know anything about pulling on the halter.
+Colts are often hurt, and sometimes killed, by trying to force them into
+the stable; and those who attempt to do it in that way, go into an up-hill
+business, when a plain smooth road is before them.</p>
+
+<p>If you want to hitch your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall which
+should not be too long, and should be connected by a bar or something of
+that kind to the partition behind it; so that, after the colt is in he
+cannot get far enough back to take a straight, backward pull on the
+halter; then by hitching him in the center of the stall, it would be
+impossible for him to pull on the halter, the partition behind preventing
+him from going back, and the halter in the center checking him every time
+he turns to the left or right. In a state of this kind you can break every
+horse to stand hitched by a light strap, any where, without his ever
+knowing any thing about pulling. But if you have broke your horse to lead,
+and have learned him the use of the halter (which you should always do
+before you hitch him to any thing), you can hitch him in any kind of a
+stall, and give him something to eat to keep him up to his place for a few
+minutes at first and there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on his
+halter.</p>
+
+
+<h4>The kind of Bit and how to accustom a Horse to it.</h4>
+
+<p>You should use a large, smooth, snaffle bit, so as not to hurt his mouth,
+with a bar to each side, to prevent the bit from pulling through either
+way. This you should attach to the head-stall of your bridle and put it on
+your colt without any reins to it, and let him run loose in a large stable
+or shed, some time, until he becomes a little used to the bit, and will
+bear it without trying to get it out of his mouth. It would be well, if
+convenient, to repeat this several times before you do anything more with
+the colt; as soon as he will bear the bit, attach a single rein to it,
+without any martingale. You should also have a halter on your colt, or a
+bridle made after the fashion of a halter, with a strap to it, so that you
+can hold or lead him about without pulling on the bit much. He is now
+ready for the saddle.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Saddle a Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>Any one man, who has this theory, can put a saddle on the wildest colt
+that ever grew, without any help, and without scaring him. The first thing
+will be to tie each stirrup strap into a loose knot to make them short,
+and prevent the stirrups from flying about and hitting him. Then double up
+the skirts and take the saddle under your right arm, so as not to frighten
+him with it as you approach. When you get to him, rub him gently a few
+times with your hand, and then raise the saddle very slowly until he can
+see it, and smell, and feel it with his nose. Then let the skirts loose,
+and rub it very gently against his neck the way the hair lays, letting him
+hear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them against him; each time
+getting a little farther backward, and finally slip it over his shoulders
+on his back. Shake it a little with your hand, and in less than five
+minutes you can rattle it about over his back as much as you please, and
+pull it off and throw it on again, without his paying much attention to
+it.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten the girth. Be
+careful how you do this. It often frightens a Colt when he feels the girth
+binding him, and making the saddle fit tight on his back. You should bring
+up the girth very gently, and not draw it too tight at first, just enough
+to hold the saddle on. Move him a little, and then girth it as tight as
+you choose, and he will not mind it.</p>
+
+<p>You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right before you put it
+on, and that there is nothing to make it hurt him, or feel unpleasant to
+his back. It should not have any loose straps on the back part of it to
+flap about and scare him. After you have saddled him in this way, take a
+switch in your right hand to tap him up with, and walk about in the stable
+a few times with your right arm over the saddle, taking hold of the reins
+on each side of his neck, with your right and left hands. Thus marching
+him about in the stable until you learn him the use of the bridle, and can
+turn him about in any direction, and stop him by a gentle pull of the
+rein. Always caress him, and loose the reins a little every time you stop
+him.</p>
+
+<p>You should always be alone, and have your colt in some tight stable or
+shed, the first time you ride him; the loft should be high so that you can
+sit on his back without endangering your head. You can learn him more in
+two hours time in a stable of this kind, than you could in two weeks in
+the common way of breaking colts, out in an open place. It you follow my
+course of treatment, you need not run any risk, or have any trouble in
+riding the worst kind of a horse. You take him a step at a time, until you
+get up a mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse. First
+learn him to lead and stand hitched, next acquaint him with the saddle,
+and the use of the bit; and then all that remains, is to get on him
+without scaring him, and you can ride him as well as any horse.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Mount the Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>First gentle him well on both sides, about the saddle, and all over,
+until he will stand still without holding, and is not afraid to see you
+any where about him.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as you have him thus gentled, get a small block, about one foot or
+eighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side of him, about where
+you want to stand to mount him; step up on this, raising yourself very
+gently; horses notice every change of position very closely, and if you
+were to step up suddenly on the block, it would be very apt to scare him;
+but by raising yourself gradually on it, he will see you, without being
+frightened, in a position very near the same as when you are on his back.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup strap next
+to you, and put your left foot into the stirrup, and stand square over it,
+holding your knee against the horse, and your toe out, so as to touch him
+under the shoulder with the toe of your boot. Place your right hand on the
+front of the saddle and on the opposite side of you. Taking hold of a
+portion of the mane and the reins as they hang loosely over his neck with
+your left hand; then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup, and on
+your right hand, until the horse feels your whole weight on the saddle;
+repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a little higher from
+the block, until he will allow you to raise your leg over his croop, and
+place yourself in the saddle.</p>
+
+<p>There are three great advantages in having a block to mount from. First, a
+sudden change of position is very apt to frighten a young horse that has
+never been handled; he will allow you to walk up to him, and stand by his
+side without scaring at you, because you have gentled him to that
+position, but if you get down on your hands and knees and crawl towards
+him, he will be very much frightened, and upon the same principle, he
+would frighten at your new position if you had the power to hold yourself
+over his back without touching him. Then the first great advantage of the
+block is to gradually gentle him to that new position in which he will see
+you when you ride him.</p>
+
+<p>Secondly, by the process of leaning your weight in the stirrups, and on
+your hand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight, so as not to
+frighten him by having him feel it all at once. And in the third place the
+block elevates you so that you will not have to make a spring in order to
+get on to the horse's back, but from it you can gradually raise yourself
+into the saddle. When you take these precautions, there is no horse so
+wild, but what you can mount him without making him jump. I have tried it
+on the worst horses that could be found, and have never failed in any
+case. When mounting, your horse should always stand without being held. A
+horse is never well broke when he has to be held with a tight rein while
+mounting; and a colt is never so safe to mount, as when you see that
+assurance of confidence, and absence of fear, which causes him to stand
+without holding.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Ride the Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>When you want him to start do not touch him on the side with your heel or
+do anything to frighten him and make him jump. But speak to him kindly,
+and if he does not start pull him a little to the left until he starts,
+and then let him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk him around in
+the stable a few times until he gets used to the bit, and you can turn him
+about in every direction and stop him as you please. It would be well to
+get on and off a good many times until he gets perfectly used to it before
+you take him out of the stable.</p>
+
+<p>After you have trained him in this way, which should not take you more
+than one or two hours, you can ride him any where you choose without ever
+having him jump or make any effort to throw you.</p>
+
+<p>When you first take him out of the stable be very gentle with him, as he
+will feel a little more at liberty to jump or run, and be a little easier
+frightened than he was while in the stable. But after handling him so much
+in the stable he will be pretty well broke, and you will be able to manage
+him without trouble or danger.</p>
+
+<p>When you first mount him take a little the shortest hold on the left rein,
+so that if any thing frightens him you can prevent him jumping by pulling
+his head around to you. This operation of pulling a horse's head around
+against his side will prevent any horse from jumping ahead, rearing up, or
+running away. If he is stubborn and will not go you can make him move by
+pulling his head around to one side, when whipping would have no effect.
+And turning him around a few times will make him dizzy, and then by
+letting him have his head straight, and giving him a little touch with the
+whip, he will go along without any trouble.</p>
+
+<p>Never use martingales on a colt when you first ride him; every movement of
+the hand should go right to the bit in the direction in which it is
+applied to the reins, without a martingale to change the direct of the
+force applied. You can guide the colt much better without them, and learn
+him the use of the bit in much less time. Besides, martingales would
+prevent you from pulling his head around if he should try to jump.</p>
+
+<p>After your colt has been rode until he is gentle and well accustomed to
+the bit, you may find it an advantage if he carries his head too high, or
+his nose too far out, to put martingales on him.</p>
+
+<p>You should be careful not to ride your colt so far at first as to heat,
+worry or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is a little fatigued;
+gentle him and let him rest, this will make him kind to you and prevent
+him from getting stubborn or mad.</p>
+
+
+<h4>The proper way to Bit a Colt.</h4>
+
+<p>Farmers often put bitting harness on a colt the first thing they do to
+him, buckling up the bitting as tight as they can draw it to make him
+carry his head high, and then turn him out in a lot to run a half day at a
+time. This is one of the worst punishments that they could inflict on the
+colt, and very injurious to a young horse that has been used to running in
+pasture with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in this way that
+they never got over it.</p>
+
+<p>A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you put on the bitting
+harness, and when you first bit him you should only rein his head up to
+that point where he naturally holds it, let that be high or low; he will
+soon learn that he cannot lower his head, and that raising it a little
+will loosen the bit in his mouth. This will give him the idea of raising
+his head to loosen the bit, and then you can draw the bitting a little
+tighter every time you put it on, and he will still raise his head to
+loosen it; by this means you will gradually get his head and neck in the
+position you want him to carry it, and give him a nice and graceful
+carriage without hurting him, making him mad, or causing his mouth to get
+sore.</p>
+
+<p>If you put the bitting on very tight the first time, he cannot raise his
+head enough to loosen it, but will bear on it all the time, and paw, sweat
+and throw himself. Many horses have been killed by falling backward with
+the bitting on, their heads being drawn up, strike the ground with the
+whole weight of the body. Horses that have their heads drawn up tightly
+should not have the bitting on more than fifteen or twenty minutes at a
+time.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to drive a Horse that is very wild, and has any vicious habit</h4>
+
+<p>Take up one fore foot and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom upwards,
+and merely touching his body, then slip a loop over his knee, and up until
+it comes above the pasture joint to keep it up, being careful to draw the
+loop together between the hoof and pasture joint with a second strap of
+some kind, to prevent the loop from slipping down and coming off. This
+will leave the horse standing on three legs; you can now handle him as you
+wish, for it is utterly impossible for him to kick in this position.
+There is something in this operation of taking up one foot that conquers a
+horse quicker and better than any thing else you can do to him. There is
+no process in the world equal to it to break a kicking horse, for several
+reasons. First, there is a principle of this kind in the nature of the
+horse; that by conquering one member you conquer to a great extent the
+whole horse.</p>
+
+<p>You have perhaps seen men operate upon this principle by sewing a horse's
+ears together to prevent him from kicking. I once saw a plan given in a
+newspaper to make a bad horse stand to be shod, which was to fasten down
+one ear. There were no reasons given why you should do so; but I tried it
+several times, and thought it had a good effect&mdash;though I would not
+recommend its use, especially stitching his ears together. The only
+benefit arising from this process is, that by disarranging his ears we
+draw his attention to them, and he is not so apt to resist the shoeing. By
+tying up one foot we operate on the same principle to a much better
+effect. When you first fasten up a horse's foot he will sometimes get very
+mad, and strike with his knee, and try every possible way to get it down;
+but he cannot do that, and will soon give it up.</p>
+
+<p>This will conquer him better than anything you could do, and without any
+possible danger of hurting himself or you either, for you can tie up his
+foot and sit down and look at him until he gives up. When you find that he
+is conquered, go to him, let down his foot, rub his leg with your hand,
+caress him and let him rest a little, then put it up again. Repeat this a
+few times, always putting up the same foot, and he will soon learn to
+travel on three legs so that you can drive him some distance. As soon as
+he gets a little used to this way of traveling, put on your harness and
+hitch him to a sulky. If he is the worst kicking horse that ever raised a
+foot you need not be fearful of his doing any damage while he has one foot
+up, for he cannot kick, neither can he run fast enough to do any harm. And
+if he is the wildest horse that ever had harness on, and has run away
+every time he has been hitched, you can now hitch him in a sulky and drive
+him as you please. And if he wants to run you can let him have the lines,
+and the whip too, with perfect safety, for he cannot go but a slow gait on
+three legs, and will soon be tired and willing to stop; only hold him
+enough to guide him in the right direction, and he will soon be tired and
+willing to stop at the word. Thus you will effectually cure him at once of
+any further notion of running off. Kicking horses have always been the
+dread of every body; you always hear men say, when they speak about a bad
+horse, &quot;I don't care what he does, so he don't kick.&quot; This new method is
+an effectual cure for this worst of all habits. There are plenty of ways
+by which you can hitch a kicking horse and force him to go, though he
+kicks all the time; but this don't have any good effect towards breaking
+him, for we know that horses kick because they are afraid of what is
+behind them, and when they kick against it and it hurts them they will
+only kick the harder, and this will hurt them still more and make them
+remember the scrape much longer, and make it still more difficult to
+persuade them to have any confidence in any thing dragging behind them
+ever after.</p>
+
+<p>But by this new method you can hitch them to a rattling sulky, plow,
+wagon, or anything else in its worst shape. They may be frightened at
+first, but cannot kick or do any thing to hurt themselves, and will soon
+find that you do not intend to hurt them, and then they will not care any
+thing more about it. You can then let down the leg and drive along gently
+without any farther trouble. By this new process a bad kicking horse can
+be learned to go gentle in harness in a few hours' time.</p>
+
+
+<h4>On Balking.</h4>
+
+<p>Horses know nothing about balking, only as they are brought into it by
+improper management, and when a horse balks in harness it is generally
+from some mismanagement, excitement, confusion, or from not knowing how to
+pull, but seldom from any unwillingness to perform all that he
+understands. High spirited, free going horses are the most subject to
+balking, and only so because drivers do not properly understand how to
+manage this kind. A free horse in a team may be so anxious to go that when
+he hears the word he will start with a jump, which will not move the load,
+but give him such a severe jerk on the shoulders that he will fly back and
+stop the other horse; the teamster will continue his driving without any
+cessation, and by the time he has the slow horse started again he will
+find that the free horse has made another jump, and again flew back, and
+now he has them both badly balked, and so confused that neither of them
+knows what is the matter, or how to start the load. Next will come the
+slashing and cracking of the whip, and hallooing of the driver, till
+something is broken or he is through with his course of treatment. But
+what a mistake the driver commits by whipping his horse for this act.
+Reason and common sense should teach him that the horse was willing and
+anxious to go, but did not know how to start the load. And should he whip
+him for that? If so, he should whip him again for not knowing how to talk.
+A man that wants to act with any rationality or reason should not fly into
+a passion, but should always think before he strikes. It takes a steady
+pressure against the collar to move a load, and you cannot expect him to
+act with a steady, determined purpose while you are whipping him. There is
+hardly one balking horse in five hundred that will pull true from
+whipping; it is only adding fuel to fire, and will make them more liable
+to balk another time. You always see horses that have been balked a few
+times, turn their heads and look back, as soon as they are a little
+frustrated. This is because they have been whipped and are afraid of what
+is behind them. This is an invariable rule with balked horses, just as
+much as it is for them to look around at their sides when they have the
+bots; in either case they are deserving of the same sympathy and the same
+kind, rational treatment.</p>
+
+<p>When your horse balks, or is a little excited, if he wants to start
+quickly, or looks around and don't want to go, there is something wrong,
+and needs kind he treatment immediately. Caress him kindly, and if he
+don't understand at once what you want him to do he will not be so much
+excited as to jump and break things, and do everything wrong through fear.
+As long as you are calm and can keep down the excitement of the horse,
+there are ten chances to have him understand you, where there would not be
+one under harsh treatment, and then the little <i>flare up</i> would not carry
+with it any unfavorable recollections, and he would soon forget all about
+it, and learn to pull true. Almost every wrong act the horse commits is
+from mismanagement, fear or excitement; one harsh word will so excite a
+nervous horse as to increase his pulse ten beats in a minute.</p>
+
+<p>When we remember that we are dealing with dumb brutes, and reflect how
+difficult it must be for them to understand our motions, signs and
+language, we should never get out of patience with them because they don't
+understand us, or wonder at their doing things wrong. With all our
+intellect, if we were placed in the horse's situation, it would be
+difficult for us to understand the driving of some foreigner, of foreign
+ways and foreign language. We should always recollect that our ways and
+language are just as foreign and unknown to the horse as any language in
+the world is to us, and should try to practice what we could understand,
+were we the horse, endeavoring by some simple means to work on his
+understanding rather than on the different parts of his body. All balked
+horses can be started true and steady in a few minutes time; they are all
+willing to pull as soon as they know how, and I never yet found a balked
+horse that I could not teach him to start his load in fifteen, and often
+less than three minutes time.</p>
+
+<p>Almost any team, when first balked, will start kindly, if you let them
+stand five or ten minutes, as though there was nothing wrong, and then
+speak to them with a steady voice, and turn them a little to the right or
+left, so as to get them both in motion before they feel the pinch of the
+load. But if you want to start a team that you are not driving yourself,
+that has been balked, fooled and whipped for some time, go to them and
+hang the lines on their hames, or fasten them to the wagon, so that they
+will be perfectly loose; make the driver and spectators (if there is any)
+stand off some distance to one side, so as not to attract the attention of
+the horses; unloose their checkreins, so that they can get their heads
+down, if they choose; let them stand a few minutes in this condition,
+until you can see that they are a little composed. While they are standing
+you should be about their heads, gentling them; it will make them a little
+more kind, and the spectators will think that you are doing something that
+they do not understand, and will not learn the secret. When you have them
+ready to start, stand before them, and as you seldom have but one balky
+horse in a team, get as near in front of him as you can, and if he is too
+fast for the other horse, let his nose come against your breast; this will
+keep him steady, for he will go slow rather than run on you; turn them
+gently to the right, without letting them pull on the traces, as far as
+the tongue will let them go; stop them with a kind word, gentle them a
+little, and then turn them back to the left, by the same process. You will
+have them under your control by this time, and as you turn them again to
+the right, steady them in the collar, and you can take them where you
+please.</p>
+
+<p>There is a quicker process that will generally start a balky horse, but
+not so sure. Stand him a little ahead, so that his shoulders will be
+against the collar, and then take up one of his fore feet in your hand,
+and let the driver start them, and when the weight comes against his
+shoulders, he will try to step; then let him have his foot, and he will go
+right along. If you want to break a horse from balking that has long been
+in that habit, you ought to set apart a half day for that purpose. Put him
+by the side of some steady horse; have check lines on them; tie up all the
+traces and straps, so that there will be nothing to excite them; do not
+rein them up, but let them have their heads loose. Walk them about
+together for some time as slowly and lazily as possible; stop often, and
+go up to your balky horse and gentle him. Do not take any whip about him,
+or do any thing to excite him, but keep him just as quiet as you can. He
+will soon learn to start off at the word, and stop whenever you tell him.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as he performs right, hitch him in an empty wagon; have it stand
+in a favorable position for starting. It would be well to shorten the stay
+chain behind the steady horse, so that if it is necessary he can take the
+weight of the wagon the first time you start them. Do not drive but a few
+rods at first; watch your balky horse closely, and if you see that he is
+getting balky, stop him before he stops of his own accord, caress him a
+little, and start again. As soon as they go well, drive them over a small
+hill a few times, and then over a large one, occasionally adding a little
+load. This process will make any horse true to pull.</p>
+
+
+<h4>To Break a Horse to Harness.</h4>
+
+<p>Take him in a tight stable, as you did to ride him; take the harness and
+go through the same process that you did with the saddle, until you get
+him familiar with them, so that you can put them on him and rattle them
+about without his caring for them. As soon as he will bear this, put on
+the lines, caress him as you draw them over him, and drive him about in
+the stable till he will bear them over his hips. The <i>lines</i> are a great
+aggravation to some colts, and often frighten them as much as if you were
+to raise a whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the harness and
+line, take him out and put him by the side of a gentle horse, and go
+through the same process that you did with the balking horse. Always use a
+bridle without blinds when you are breaking a horse to harness.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to hitch a Horse in a Sulky.</h4>
+
+<p>Lead him to and around it; let him look at it, touch it with his nose, and
+stand by it till he does not care for it; then pull the shafts a little to
+the left, and stand by your horse in front of the off wheel. Let some one
+stand on the right side of the horse, and hold him by the bit, while you
+stand on the left side, facing the sulky. This will keep him straight. Run
+your left hand back and let it rest on his hip, and lay hold of the shafts
+with your right, bringing them up very gently to the left hand, which
+still remains stationary. Do not let anything but your arm touch his back,
+and as soon as you have the shafts square over him, let the person on the
+opposite side take hold of one of them and lower them very gently on the
+shaft bearers. Be very slow and deliberate about hitching; the longer time
+you take, the better, as a general thing. When you have the shafts placed,
+shake them slightly, so that he will feel them against each side. As soon
+as he will bear them without scaring, fasten your braces, etc., and start
+him along very slowly. Let one man lead the horse to keep him gentle,
+while the other gradually works back with the lines till he can get behind
+and drive him. After you have driven him in this way a short distance, you
+can get into the sulky, and all will go right. It is very important to
+have your horse go gently, when you first hitch him. After you have walked
+him awhile, there is not half so much danger of his scaring. Men do very
+wrong to jump up behind a horse to drive him as soon as they have him
+hitched. There are too many things for him to comprehend all at once. The
+shafts, the lines, the harness, and the rattling of the sulky, all tend to
+scare him, and he must be made familiar with them by degrees. If your
+horse is very wild, I would advise you to put up one foot the first time
+you drive him.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to Make a Horse Lie Down.</h4>
+
+<p>Every thing that we want to learn the horse must be commenced in some way
+to give him an idea of what you want him to do, and then be repeated till
+he learns it perfectly. To make a horse lie down, bend his left fore leg,
+and slip a loop over it, so that he cannot get it down. Then put a
+circingle around his body, and fasten one end of a long strap around the
+other fore leg, just above the hoof. Place the other end under the
+circingle, so as to keep the strap in the right hand; stand on the left
+side of the horse, grasp the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on the
+strap with your right; bear against his shoulder till you cause him to
+move. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise the other
+foot, and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the strap tight in your
+hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if he raises up. Hold him in
+his position, and turn his head toward you; bear against his side with
+your shoulder, not hard, but with a steady equal pressure, and in about
+ten minutes he will lie down. As soon as he lies down he will be
+completely conquered, and you can handle him as you please. Take off the
+straps, and straighten out his legs; rub him lightly about the face and
+neck with your hand the way the hair lays; handle all his legs, and after
+he has lain ten or twenty minutes, let him get up again. After resting him
+a short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the operation three or
+four times, which will be sufficient for one lesson. Give him two lessons
+a day, and when you have given him four lessons, he will lie down by
+taking hold of one foot. As soon as he is well broken to lie down in this
+way, tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you take hold of his
+foot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere motion of the
+stick.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to make a Horse follow you.</h4>
+
+<p>Turn him into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance to get out,
+with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him a little, take hold
+of his halter and turn him towards you, at the same time touching him
+lightly over the hips with a long whip. Lead him the length of the stable,
+rubbing him on the neck, saying in a steady tone of voice as you lead him,
+COME ALONG BOY! or use his name instead of boy, if you choose. Every time
+you turn, touch him slightly with the whip, to make him step up close to
+you, and then caress him with your hand. He will soon learn to hurry up to
+escape the whip and be caressed, and you can make him follow you around
+without taking hold of the halter. If he should stop and turn from you,
+give him a few cuts about the hind legs, and he will soon turn his head
+toward you, when you must always caress him. A few lessons of this kind
+will make him run after you, when he sees the motion of the whip&mdash;in
+twenty or thirty minutes he will follow you about the stable. After you
+have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out into a
+small lot and train him; and from thence you can take him into the road
+and make him follow you anywhere, and run after you.</p>
+
+
+<h4>How to make a Horse stand without Holding.</h4>
+
+<p>After you have him well broken to follow you, stand him in the center of
+the stable&mdash;begin at his head to caress him, gradually working backward.
+If he move, give him a cut with the whip and put him back in the same spot
+from which he started. If he stands, caress him as before, and continue
+gentling him in this way until you can get round him without making him
+move. Keep walking around him, increasing your pace, and only touch him
+occasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around and if he then moves,
+give him another cut with the whip and put him back to his place. If he
+stands, go to him frequently and caress him, and then walk around him
+again. Do not keep him in one position too long at a time, but make him
+come to you occasionally and follow you round in the stable. Then stand
+him in another place, and proceed as before. You should not train your
+horse more than half an hour at a time.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="THE_HORSEMANS_GUIDE" id="THE_HORSEMANS_GUIDE" /><b>THE HORSEMAN'S GUIDE</b></h2>
+
+<h2>AND</h2>
+
+<h2>FARRIER.</h2>
+
+
+<h4>By JOHN J. STUTZMAN, West Rushville, Fairfield County, Ohio.</h4>
+
+
+<p>I will here insert some of the most efficient cures of diseases to which
+the horse is subject. I have practised them for many years with
+unparalleled success. I have cured horses with the following remedies,
+which, (in many cases,) have been given up in despair, and I never had a
+case in which I did not effect a cure.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cure for Colic.</h4>
+
+<p>Take 1 gill of turpentine, 1 gill of opium dissolved in whisky; 1 quart of
+water, milk warm. Drench the horse and move him about slowly. If there is
+no relief in fifteen minutes, take a piece of chalk, about the size of an
+egg, powder it, and put it into a pint of cider vinegar, which should be
+blood warm, give that, and then move him as before.</p>
+
+<p>ANOTHER.&mdash;Take 1 ounce laudanum, 1 ounce of ether, 1 ounce of tincture of
+assafoetida, 2 ounces tincture of peppermint, half pint of whisky; put all
+in a quart bottle, shake it well and drench the horse.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cure for the Bots.</h4>
+
+<p>Take 1-1/2 pint of fresh milk, (just from the cow,) 1 pint of molasses.
+Drench the horse and bleed him in the mouth; then give him 1 pint of
+linseed oil to remove them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For Distemper.</h4>
+
+<p>Take mustard seed ground fine, tar and rye chop, make pills about the size
+of a hen's egg. Give him six pills every six hours, until they physic him;
+then give him one table spoonful of the horse powder mentioned before,
+once a day, until cured. Keep him from cold water for six hours after
+using the powder.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Long Fever.</h4>
+
+<p>In the first place bleed the horse severely. Give him spirits of nitre,
+in water which should not be too cold, for it would chill him. Keep him
+well covered with blankets, and rub his legs and body well; blister him
+around the chest with mustard seed, and be sure to give him no cold water,
+unless there is spirits of nitre in it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Rheumatic Liniment.</h4>
+
+<p>Take croton oil, aqua ammonia, f.f.f; oil of cajuput, oil of origanum, in
+equal parts. Rub well. It is good for spinal diseases and weak back.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cuts and Wounds of all kinds.</h4>
+
+<p>One pint of alcohol, half ounce of gum of myrrh, half ounce aloes, wash
+once a day.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Sprains and Swellings.</h4>
+
+<p>Take 1-1/2 ounces of harts-horn, 1 ounce camphor, 2 ounces spirits of
+turpentine, 4 ounces sweet oil, 8 ounces alcohol. Anoint twice a day.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For Glanders.</h4>
+
+<p>Take of burnt buck's horn a table spoonful, every three days for nine
+days. If there is no relief in that time, continue the powder until there
+is relief.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Saddle or Collar Liniment.</h4>
+
+<p>One ounce of spirits of turpentine, half ounce of oil of spike, half ounce
+essence of wormwood, half ounce castile soap, half ounce gum camphor, half
+ounce sulphuric ether, half pint alcohol, and wash freely.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Liniment to set the stifle Joint on a Horse.</h4>
+
+<p>One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce oil amber. Shake
+it well and rub the joints twice a day until cured, which will be in two
+or three days.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Eye Water.</h4>
+
+<p>I have tried the following and found it an efficient remedy. I have tried
+it on my own eyes and those of others. Take bolus muna 1 ounce, white
+vitrol 1 ounce, alum half ounce, with one pint clear rain water: shake it
+well before using. If too strong, weaken it with rain water.</p>
+
+<h4>Liniment for Windgalls, Strains and growth of Lumps on Man or Horse.</h4>
+
+<p>One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce amber, aqua fortis
+and sal amoniac 1 drachm, spirits of salts 1 drachm oil of sassafras half
+ounce, harts-horn half ounce. Bathe once or twice a day.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Horse Powder.</h4>
+
+<p>This powder will cure more diseases than any other medicine known; such as
+Distemper, Fersey, Hidebound, Colds, and all lingering diseases which may
+arise from impurity of the blood or lungs.&mdash;Take 1 lb. comfrey root, half
+lb. antimony, half lb. sulphur, 3 oz. of saltpetre, half lb. laurel
+berries, half lb. juniper berries, half lb. angetice seed, half lb. rosin,
+3 oz. alum, half lb. copperas, half lb. master wort, half lb. gun powder.
+Mix all to a powder and give in the most cases, one table spoonful in mash
+feed once a day till cured. Keep the horse dry, and keep him from the cold
+water six hours after using it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For Cuts or Wounds on Horse or Man.</h4>
+
+<p>Take fishworms mashed up with old bacon oil, and tie on the wound, which
+is the surest and safest cure.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Oil for Collars.</h4>
+
+<p>This oil will also cure bruises, sores, swellings, strains or galls. Take
+fishworms and put them in a crock or other vessel 24 hours, till they
+become clean; then put them in a bottle and throw plenty of salt upon
+them, place them near a stove and they will turn to oil; rub the parts
+affected freely. I have cured knee-sprung horses with this oil frequently.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Sore and Scummed Eyes on Horses.</h4>
+
+<p>Take fresh butter or rabbit's fat, honey, and the white of three eggs,
+well stirred up with salt, and black pepper ground to a fine powder; mix
+it well and apply to the eye with a feather. Also rub above the eye (in
+the hollow,) with the salve. Wash freely with cold spring water.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For a Bruised Eye.</h4>
+
+<p>Take rabbit's fat, and use as above directed. Bathe freely with fresh
+spring water. I have cured many bloodshot eyes with this simple remedy.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Poll-evil or Fistula.</h4>
+
+<p>Take of Spanish flies 1 oz., gum euphorbium 3 drachms, tartar emetic 1
+oz., rosin 3 oz.; mix and pulverize, and then mix them with a half lb. of
+lard. Anoint every three days for three weeks; grease the parts affected
+with lard every four days. Wash with soap and water before using the
+salve. In poll-evil, if open, pulverize black bottle glass, put as much in
+each ear as will lay on a dime. The above is recommended in outside
+callous, such as spavin, ringbone, curbs, windgalls, etc. etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>For the Fersey.</h4>
+
+<p>Take 1 quart of sassafras root bark, 1 quart burdock root, spice wood
+broke fine, 1 pint rattle weed root. Boil in 1-1/2 gallons of water; scald
+bran; when cool give it to the horse once a day for 3 or 4 days. Then
+bleed him in the neck and give him the horse powder as directed. In
+extreme cases, I also rowel in the breast and hind legs, to extract the
+corruption and remove the swelling. This is also an efficient remedy for
+blood diseases, etc., etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>To Make the Hair Grow on Man or Beast.</h4>
+
+<p>Take milk of sulphur 1/2 drachm, sugar of lead 1/2 drachm, rose water 1/2
+gill, mix and bathe well twice a day for ten days.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cholera or Diarrhea Tincture.</h4>
+
+<p>1 oz. of laudanum, 1 oz. of spirits of camphor, 1 oz. spirits of nitre,
+1/2 oz. essence of peppermint, 20 drops of chloroform; put all in a
+bottle, shake well, and take 1/2 teaspoonful in cold water once every six,
+twelve and twenty-four hours, according to the nature of the case.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cure for the Heaves.</h4>
+
+<p>Give 30 grains of tartar emetic every week until cured.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Process of causing a Horse to lay down.</h4>
+
+<p>Approach him gently upon the left side, fasten a strap around the ancle of
+his fore-foot; then raise the foot gently, so as to bring the knee against
+the breast and the foot against the belly. The leg being in this position,
+fasten the strap around his arm, which will effectually prevent him from
+putting that foot to the ground again. Then fasten a strap around the
+opposite leg, and bring it over his shoulder, on the left side, so that
+you can catch hold of it; then push these gently, and when he goes to
+fall, pull the strap, which will bring him on his knees.</p>
+
+<p>Now commence patting him under the belly; by continuing your gentle
+strokes upon the belly, you will, in a few minutes, bring him to his knees
+behind. Continue the process, and he will lie entirely down, and submit
+himself wholly to your treatment. By thus proceeding gently, you may
+handle his feet and legs in any way you choose.</p>
+
+<p>However wild and fractious a horse may be naturally, after practicing this
+process a few times, you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive,
+and even disposed to follow you anywhere, and unwilling to leave you on
+any occasion.</p>
+
+<p>Unless the horse be wild, the first treatment will be all sufficient; but
+should he be too fractious to be approached in a manner necessary to
+perform the first named operation, this you will find effectual, and you
+may then train your horse to harness or anything else with the utmost
+ease.</p>
+
+<p>In breaking horses for harness, after giving the powders, put the harness
+on gently, without startling him, and pat him gently, then fasten <i>the
+chain</i> to a log, which he will draw for an indefinite length of time. When
+you find him sufficiently gentle, place him to a wagon or other vehicle.</p>
+
+<p>NOTE.&mdash;Be <i>extremely</i> careful in catching a horse, not to affright him.
+After he is caught, and the powders given, rub him gently on the head,
+neck, back and legs, and on each side of the eyes, the way the hair lies,
+but be very careful not to whip, for a young horse is equally passionate
+with yourself, and this pernicious practice has ruined many fine and
+valuable horses. When you are riding a colt (or even an old horse), do not
+whip him if he scares, but draw the bridle, so that his eye may rest upon
+the object which has affrighted him, and pat him upon the neck as you
+approach it; by this means you will pacify him, and render him less liable
+to start in future.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Means of learning a Horse to pace.</h4>
+
+<p>Buckle a four pound weight around the ancles of his hind legs, (lead is
+preferable) ride your horse briskly with those weights upon his ancles, at
+the same time, twitching each rein of the bridle alternately, by this
+means you will immediately throw him into a pace. After you have trained
+him in this way to some extent, change your leaded weights for something
+lighter; leather padding, or something equal to it, will answer the
+purpose; let him wear these light weights until he is perfectly trained.
+This process will make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Horsemanship.</h4>
+
+<p>The rider should, in the first place, let the horse know that he is not
+afraid of him. Before mounting a horse, take the rein into the left hand,
+draw it tightly, put the left foot in the stirrup, and raise quickly. When
+you are seated press your knees to the saddle, let your leg, from the
+knee, stand out; turn your toe in and heel out; sit upright in your
+saddle, throw your weight forward&mdash;one third of it in the stirrups&mdash;and
+hold your rein tight. Should your horse scare, you are braced in your
+saddle and he cannot throw you.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Indication of a Horse's Disposition.</h4>
+
+<p>A long, thin neck indicates a good disposition, contrariwise, if it be
+short and thick. A broad forehead, high between the ears, indicates a very
+vicious disposition.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Cures, &amp;c.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Cure for the Founder.</i>&mdash;Let 1-1/2 gallons of blood from the neck vein,
+make frequent applications of hot water to his forelegs; after which,
+bathe them in wet cloths, then give one quart Linseed Oil. The horse will
+be ready for service the next day.</p>
+
+<p><i>Botts.</i>&mdash;Mix one pint honey with one quart sweet milk, give as a drench,
+one hour after, dissolve 1 oz. pulverized Coperas in a pint of water, use
+likewise, then give one quart of Linseed Oil. Cure effectual.</p>
+
+<p><i>Colic.</i>&mdash;After bleeding copiously in the mouth, take a half pound of raw
+cotton, wrap it around a coal of fire in such a way as to exclude the air;
+when it begins to smoke, hold it under the horse's nose until he becomes
+easy. Cure certain in ten minutes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Distemper.</i>&mdash;Take 1-1/2 gallons blood from the neck vein, then give a
+dose of Sassafras Oil, 1-1/2 ounces is sufficient. Cure speedy and
+certain.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fistula.</i>&mdash;When it makes its appearance, rowel both sides of the
+shoulder; if it should break, take one ounce of verdigris, 1 ounce oil
+rosin, 1 ounce copperas, pulverize and mix together. Use it as a salve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Receipt for Bone Spavin or Ring-Bone.</h4>
+
+<p>Take a table-spoonful of corrosive sublimate; quicksilver about the size
+of a bean; 3 or 4 drops of muriatic acid; iodine about the size of a pea,
+and lard enough to form a paste; grind the iodine and sublimate fine as
+flour, and put altogether in a cup, mix well, then shear the hair all off
+the size you want; wash clean with soap-suds, rub dry, then apply the
+medicine. Let it stay on five days; if it does not take effect, take it
+off, mix it over with a little more lard, and add some fresh medicine.
+When the lump comes out, wash it clean in soap-suds, then apply a poultice
+of cow dung, leave it on twelve hours, then apply healing medicine.</p>
+
+
+<h4>Temperance Beverage.</h4>
+
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+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Arabian Art of Taming and Training
+Wild and Vicious Horses, by P. R. Kincaid
+John J. Stutzman
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild
+and Vicious Horses, by P. R. Kincaid
+John J. Stutzman
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Arabian Art of Taming and Training Wild and Vicious Horses
+
+Author: P. R. Kincaid
+John J. Stutzman
+
+Release Date: January 24, 2005 [EBook #14776]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TAMING HORSES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Kentuckiana Digital Library, David Garcia, Michael
+Ciesielski and the PG Online Distributed Proofreading Team.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE ARABIAN ART
+
+OF
+
+TAMING AND TRAINING
+
+WILD & VICIOUS HORSES.
+
+
+BY
+
+
+T. GILBERT, BRO. RAMSEY & CO.
+
+
+PRINTED AND SOLD FOR THE PUBLISHER BY
+HENRY WATKINS
+PRINTER, 225 & 227 WEST FIFTH STREET, CINCINNATI, OHIO
+1856.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+The first domestication of the horse, one of the greatest achievements of
+man in the animal kingdom, was not the work of a day; but like all other
+great accomplishments, was brought about by a gradual process of
+discoveries and experiments. He first subdued the more subordinate
+animals, on account of their being easily caught and tamed, and used for
+many years the mere drudges, the ox, the ass, and the camel, instead of
+the fleet and elegant horse. This noble animal was the last brought into
+subjection, owing, perhaps, to man's limited and inaccurate knowledge of
+his nature, and his consequent inability to control him. This fact alone
+is sufficient evidence of his superiority over all other animals.
+
+Man, in all his inventions and discoveries, has almost invariably
+commenced with some simple principle, and gradually developed it from one
+degree of perfection to another. The first hint that we have of the use of
+electricity was Franklin's drawing it from the clouds with his kite. Now
+it is the instrument of conveying thought from mind to mind, with a
+rapidity that surpasses time. The great propelling power that drives the
+wheel of the engine over our land, and ploughs the ocean with our
+steamers, was first discovered escaping from a tea-kettle. And so the
+powers of the horse, second only to the powers of steam, became known to
+man only as experiments, and investigation revealed them.
+
+The horse, according to the best accounts we can gather, has been the
+constant servant of man for nearly four thousand years, ever rewarding him
+with his labor and adding to his comfort in proportion to his skill and
+manner of using him; but being to those who govern him by brute force, and
+know nothing of the beauty and delight to be gained from the cultivation
+of his finer nature, a fretful, vicious, and often dangerous servant;
+whilst to the Arabs, whose horse is the pride of his life, and who governs
+him by the law of kindness, we find him to be quite a different animal.
+The manner in which he is treated from a foal gives him an affection and
+attachment for his master not known in any other country. The Arab and his
+children, the mare and her foal, inhabit the tent together; and although
+the foal and the mare's neck are often pillows for the children to roll
+upon, no accident ever occurs, the mare being as careful of the children
+as of the colt. Such is the mutual attachment between the horse and his
+master, that he will leave his companions at his master's call, ever glad
+to obey his voice. And when the Arab falls from his horse, and is unable
+to rise again, he will stand by him and neigh for assistance; and if he
+lays down to sleep, as fatigue sometimes compels him to do in the midst of
+the desert, his faithful steed will watch over him, and neigh to arouse
+him if man or beast approaches. The Arabs frequently teach their horses
+secret signs or signals, which they make use of on urgent occasions to
+call forth their utmost exertions. These are more efficient than the
+barbarous mode of urging them on with the spur and whip, a forcible
+illustration of which will be found in the following anecdote.
+
+A Bedouin, named Jabal, possessed a mare of great celebrity. Hassad Pacha,
+then Governor of Damascus, wished to buy the animal, and repeatedly made
+the owner the most liberal offers, which Jabal steadily refused. The Pacha
+then had recourse to threats, but with no better success. At length, one
+Gafar, a Bedouin of another tribe, presented himself to the Pacha, and
+asked what he would give the man who should make him master of Jabal's
+mare? "I will fill his horse's nose-bag with gold," replied Hassad. The
+result of this interview having gone abroad; Jabal became more watchful
+than ever, and always secured his mare at night with an iron chain, one
+end of which was fastened to her hind fetlock, whilst the other, after
+passing through the tent cloth, was attached to a picket driven in the
+ground under the felt that served himself and wife for a bed. But one
+midnight, Gafar crept silently into the tent, and succeeded in loosening
+the chain. Just before starting off with his prize, he caught up Jabal's
+lance, and poking him with the butt end, cried out: "I am Gafar! I have
+stolen your noble mare, and will give you notice in time." This warning
+was in accordance with the customs of the Desert; for to rob a hostile
+tribe is considered an honorable exploit, and the man who accomplishes it
+is desirous of all the glory that may flow from the deed. Poor Jabal, when
+he heard the words, rushed out of the tent and gave the alarm, then
+mounting his brother's mare, accompanied by some of his tribe, he pursued
+the robber for four hours. The brother's mare was of the same stock as
+Jabal's but was not equal to her; nevertheless, he outstripped those of
+all the other pursuers, and was even on the point of overtaking the
+robber, when Jabal shouted to him: "Pinch her right ear and give her a
+touch of the heel." Gafar did so, and away went the mare like lightning,
+speedily rendering further pursuit hopeless. The _pinch in the ear_ and
+the _touch with the heel_ were the secret signs by which Jabal had been
+used to urge his mare to her utmost speed. Jabal's companions were amazed
+and indignant at his strange conduct. "O thou father of a jackass!" they
+cried, "thou hast helped the thief to rob thee of thy jewel." But he
+silenced their upbraidings by saying: "I would rather lose her than sully
+her reputation. Would you have me suffer it to be said among the tribes
+that another mare had proved fleeter than mine? I have at least this
+comfort left me, that I can say she never met with her match."
+
+Different countries have their different modes of horsemanship, but
+amongst all of them its first practice was carried on in but a rude and
+indifferent way, being hardly a stepping stone to the comfort and delight
+gained from the use of the horse at the present day. The polished Greeks
+as well as the ruder nations of Northern Africa, for a long while rode
+without either saddle or bridle, guiding their horses, with the voice or
+the hand, or with a light switch with which they touched the animal on the
+side of the face to make him turn in the opposite direction. They urged
+him forward by a touch of the heel, and stopped him by catching him by the
+muzzle. Bridles and bits were at length introduced, but many centuries
+elapsed before anything that could be called a saddle was used. Instead of
+these, cloths, single or padded, and skins of wild beasts, often richly
+adorned, were placed beneath the rider, but always without stirrups; and
+it is given as an extraordinary fact, that the Romans even in the times
+when luxury was carried to excess amongst them, never desired so simple an
+expedient for assisting the horseman to mount, to lessen his fatigue and
+aid him in sitting more securely in his saddle. Ancient sculptors prove
+that the horsemen of almost every country were accustomed to mount their
+horses from the right side of the animal, that they might the better grasp
+the mane, which hangs on that side, a practice universally changed in
+modern times. The ancients generally leaped on their horse's backs, though
+they sometimes carried a spear, with a loop or projection about two feet
+from the bottom which served them as a step. In Greece and Rome, the local
+magistracy were bound to see that blocks for mounting (what the Scotch
+call _loupin_-on-stanes) were placed along the road at convenient
+distances. The great, however, thought it more dignified to mount their
+horses by stepping on the bent backs of their servants or slaves, and many
+who could not command such costly help used to carry a light ladder about
+with them. The first distinct notice that we have of the use of the saddle
+occurs in the edict of the Emperor Theodosias, (A.D. 385) from which we
+also learn that it was usual for those who hired post-horses, to provide
+their own saddle, and that the saddle should not weigh more than sixty
+pounds, a cumbrous contrivance, more like the howdahs placed on the backs
+of elephants than the light and elegant saddle of modern times.
+Side-saddles for ladies are an invention of comparatively recent date. The
+first seen in England was made for Anne of Bohemia, wife of Richard the
+Second, and was probably more like a pillion than the side-saddle of the
+present day. A pillion is a sort of a very low-backed arm-chair, and was
+fastened on the horse's croup, behind the saddle, on which a man rode who
+had all the care of managing the horse, while the lady sat at her ease,
+supporting herself by grasping a belt which he wore, or passing her arm
+around his body, if the _gentleman was not too ticklish_. But the Mexicans
+manage these things with more gallantry than the ancients did. The
+"pisanna," or country lady, we are told is often seen mounted before her
+"cavalera," who take the more natural position of being seated behind his
+fair one, supporting her by throwing his arm around her waist, (a very
+appropriate support if the bent position of the arm does not cause an
+occasional contraction of the muscles.) These two positions may justly be
+considered as the first steps taken by the ladies towards their improved
+and elegant mode of riding at the present day.
+
+At an early period when the diversion of hawking was prevalent, they
+dressed themselves in the costume of the knight, and rode astride. Horses
+were in general use for many centuries before anything like a protection
+for the hoof was thought of, and it was introduced, at first, as a matter
+of course, on a very simple scale. The first foot defense, it is said,
+which was given to the horse, was on the same principle as that worn by
+man, which was a sort of sandal, made of leather and tied to the horse's
+foot, by means of straps or strings. And finally plates of metal were
+fastened to the horse's feet by the same simple means.
+
+Here again, as in the case of the sturrupless saddle, when we reflect that
+men should, for nearly a thousand years, have gone on fastening plates of
+metal under horses' hoofs by the clumsy means of straps and strings,
+without its ever occurring to them to try so simple an improvement as
+nails, we have another remarkable demonstration of the slow steps by which
+horsemanship has reached its present state.
+
+In the forgoing remarks I have taken the liberty of extracting several
+facts from a valuable little work by Rolla Springfield. With this short
+comment on the rise and progress of horsemanship, from its commencement up
+to the present time, I will proceed to give you the principles of a new
+theory of taming wild horses, which is the result of many experiments and
+a thorough investigation and trial of the different methods of
+horsemanship now in use.
+
+
+
+
+THE THREE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES
+OF MY THEORY
+
+
+Founded on the Leading Characteristics of the Horse.
+
+FIRST.--That he is so constituted by nature that he will not offer
+resistance to any demand made of him which he fully comprehends, if made
+in a way consistent with the laws of his nature.
+
+SECOND.--That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his
+experience, and can be handled according to our will, without force.
+
+THIRD.--That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature by which he
+examines all things new to him, take any object, however frightful,
+around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain, without causing him to
+fear.
+
+To take these assertions in order, I will first give you some of the
+reasons why I think he is naturally obedient, and will not offer
+resistance to anything fully comprehended. The horse, though possessed of
+some faculties superior to man's being deficient in reasoning powers, has
+no knowledge of right or wrong, of free will and independent government,
+and knows not of any imposition practiced upon him, however unreasonable
+these impositions may be. Consequently, he cannot come to any decision
+what he should or should not do, because he has not the reasoning
+faculties of man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of him. If he
+had, taking into consideration his superior strength, he would be useless
+to man as a servant. Give him _mind_ in proportion to his strength, and he
+will demand of us the green fields for an inheritance, where he will roam
+at leisure, denying the right of servitude at all. God has wisely formed
+his nature so that it can be operated upon by the knowledge of man
+according to the dictates of his will, and he might well be termed an
+unconscious, submissive servant. This truth we can see verified in every
+day's experience by the abuses practiced upon him. Any one who chooses to
+be so cruel, can mount the noble steed and run him 'till he drops with
+fatigue, or, as is often the case with more spirited, fall dead with the
+rider. If he had the power to reason, would he not vault and pitch his
+rider, rather than suffer him to run him to death? Or would he condescend
+to carry at all the vain imposter, who, with but equal intellect, was
+trying to impose on his equal rights and equally independent spirit? But
+happily for us, he has no consciousness of imposition, no thought of
+disobedience except by impulse caused by the violation of the law of
+nature. Consequently when disobedient it is the fault of man.
+
+Then, we can but come to the conclusion, that if a horse is not taken in a
+way at variance with the law of his nature, he will do anything that he
+fully comprehends without making any offer of resistance.
+
+_Second._ The fact of the horse being unconscious of the amount of his
+strength, can be proven to the satisfaction of any one. For instance, such
+remarks as these are common, and perhaps familiar to your recollection.
+One person says to another, "If that wild horse there was conscious of the
+amount of his strength, his owner could have no business with him in that
+vehicle; such light reins and harness, too; if he knew he could snap them
+asunder in a minute and be as free as the air we breathe;" and, "that
+horse yonder that is pawing and fretting to follow the company that is
+fast leaving him, if he knew his strength he would not remain long
+fastened to that hitching post so much against his will, by a strap that
+would no more resist his powerful weight and strength, than a cotton
+thread would bind a strong man." Yet these facts made common by every day
+occurrence, are not thought of as anything wonderful. Like the ignorant
+man who looks at the different phases of the moon, you look at these
+things as he looks at her different changes, without troubling your mind
+with the question, "Why are these things so?" What would be the condition
+of the world if all our minds lay dormant? If men did not think, reason
+and act, our undisturbed, slumbering intellects would not excel the
+imbecility of the brute; we would live in chaos, hardly aware of our
+existence. And yet with all our activity of mind, we daily pass by
+unobserved that which would be wonderful if philosophised and reasoned
+upon, and with the same inconsistency wonder at that which a little
+consideration, reason and philosophy would be but a simple affair.
+
+_Thirdly._ He will allow any object, however frightful in appearance, to
+come around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain.
+
+We know from a natural course of reasoning, that there has never been an
+effected without a cause, and we infer from this, that there can be no
+action, either in animate or inanimate matter, without there first being
+some cause to produce it. And from this self-evident fact we know that
+there is some cause for every impulse or movement of either mind or
+matter, and that this law governs every action or movement of the animal
+kingdom. Then, according to this theory, there must be some cause before
+fear can exist; and, if fear exists from the effect of imagination, and
+not from the infliction of real pain, it can be removed by complying with
+those laws of nature by which the horse examines an object, and determines
+upon its innocence or harm.
+
+A log or stump by the road-side may be, in the imagination of the horse,
+some great beast about to pounce upon him; but after you take him up to it
+and let him stand by it a little while, and touch it with his nose, and go
+through his process of examination, he will not care any thing more about
+it. And the same principle and process will have the same effect with any
+other object, however frightful in appearance, in which there is no harm.
+Take a boy that has been frightened by a false-face or any other object
+that he could not comprehend at once; but let him take that face or object
+in his hands and examine it, and he will not care anything more about it.
+This is a demonstration of the same principle.
+
+With this introduction to the principles of my theory, I shall next
+attempt to teach you how to put it into practice, and whatever
+instructions may follow, you can rely on as having been proven practical
+by my own experiments. And knowing from experience just what obstacles I
+have met with in handling bad horses, I shall try to anticipate them for
+you, and assist you in surmounting them, by commencing with the first
+steps taken with the colt, and accompanying you through the whole task of
+breaking.
+
+
+HOW TO SUCCEED IN GETTING THE COLT FROM PASTURE.
+
+Go to the pasture and walk around the whole herd quietly, and at such a
+distance as not to cause them to scare and run. Then approach them very
+slowly, and if they stick up their heads and seem to be frightened, hold
+on until they become quiet, so as not to make them run before you are
+close enough to drive them in the direction you want to go. And when you
+begin to drive, do not flourish your arms or hollow, but gently follow
+them off leaving the direction free for them that you wish them to take.
+Thus taking advantage of their ignorance, you will be able to get them in
+the pound as easily as the hunter drives the quails into his net. For, if
+they have always run into the pasture uncared for, (as many horses do in
+prairie countries and on large plantations,) there is no reason why they
+should not be as wild as the sportsman's birds and require the same gentle
+treatment, if you want to get them without trouble; for the horse in his
+natural state is as wild as any of the undomesticated animals, though more
+easily tamed than most of them.
+
+
+HOW TO STABLE A COLT WITHOUT TROUBLE.
+
+The next step will be, to get the horse into a stable or shed. This should
+be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion in the
+horse of any danger befalling him. The best way to do this, is to lead a
+gentle horse into the stable first and hitch him, then quietly walk around
+the colt and let him go in of his own accord. It is almost impossible to
+get men, who have never practiced on this principle, to go slow and
+considerate enough about it. They do not know that in handling a wild
+horse, above all other things, is that good old adage true, that "haste
+makes waste;" that is, waste of time, for the gain of trouble and
+perplexity.
+
+One wrong move may frighten your horse, and make him think it is necessary
+to escape at all hazards for the safety of his life, and thus make two
+hours work of a ten minutes job; and this would be all your own fault, and
+entirely unnecessary; for he will not run unless you run after him, and
+that would not be good policy, unless you knew that you could outrun him;
+or you will have to let him stop of his own accord after all. But he will
+not try to break away, unless you attempt to force him into measures. If
+he does not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in,
+do not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside, by
+gently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at
+your side; for you might as well raise a club. The horse has never studied
+anatomy, and does not know but they will unhinge themselves and fly at
+him. It he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run; and if
+he gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he will
+soon find that you are not going to hurt him; and you can soon walk so
+close around him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get
+farther from you. As soon as he is in, remove the quiet horse and shut the
+door. This will be his first notion of confinement--not knowing how to get
+in such a place, nor how to get out of it. That he may take it as quietly
+as possible, see that the shed is entirely free from dogs, chickens, or
+anything that would annoy him; then give him a few ears of corn, and let
+him remain alone fifteen or twenty minutes, until he has examined his
+apartment, and has become reconciled to his confinement.
+
+
+TIME TO REFLECT.
+
+And now, while your horse is eating those few ears of corn, is the proper
+time to see that your halter is ready and all right, and to reflect on the
+best mode of operations; for, in the horsebreaking, it is highly
+important that you should be governed by some system. And you should know
+before you attempt to do anything, just what you are going to do, and how
+you are going to do it. And, if you are experienced in the art of taming
+wild horses, you ought to be able to tell within a few minutes the length
+of time it would take you to halter the colt, and learn him to lead.
+
+
+THE KIND OF HALTER.
+
+Always use a leather halter, and be sure to have it made so that it will
+not draw tight around his nose if he pulls on it. It should be of the
+right size to fit his head easily and nicely; so that the nose band will
+not be too tight or too low. Never put a rope halter on an unbroken colt
+under any circumstances whatever. They have caused more horses to hurt or
+kill themselves, than would pay for twice the cost of all the leather
+halters that have ever been needed for the purpose of haltering colts. It
+is almost impossible to break a colt that is very wild with a rope halter,
+without having him pull, rear and throw himself, and thus endanger his
+life; and I will tell you why. It is just as natural for a horse to try to
+get his head out of anything that hurts it, or feels unpleasant, as it
+would be for you to try to get your hand out of a fire. The cords of the
+rope are hard and cutting; this makes him raise his head and draw on it,
+and as soon as he pulls, the slip noose (the way rope halters are always
+made) tightens, and pinches his nose, and then he will struggle for life,
+until, perchance, he throws himself; and who would have his horse throw
+himself, and run the risk of breaking his neck, rather than pay the price
+of a leather halter. But this is not the worst. A horse that has once
+pulled on his halter, can never be as well broke as one that has never
+pulled at all.
+
+
+REMARKS ON THE HORSE.
+
+But before we attempt to do anything more with the colt, I will give you
+some of the characteristics of his nature, that you may better understand
+his motions. Every one that has ever paid any attention to the horse, has
+noticed his natural inclination to smell of everything which to him looks
+new and frightful. This is their strange mode of examining everything.
+And, when they are frightened at anything, though they look at it sharply,
+they seem to have no confidence in this optical examination alone, but
+must touch it with the nose before they are entirely satisfied; and, as
+soon as this is done, all is right.
+
+
+EXPERIMENTS WITH THE ROBE.
+
+If you want to satisfy yourself of this characteristic of the horse, and
+learn something of importance concerning the peculiarities of his nature,
+etc., turn him into the barn-yard, or a large stable will do, and then
+gather up something that you know will frighten him; a red blanket,
+buffalo robe, or something of that kind. Hold it up so that he can see it;
+he will stick up his head and snort. Then throw it down somewhere in the
+center of the lot or barn, and walk off to one side. Watch his motions,
+and study his nature. If he is frightened at the object, he will not rest
+until he has touched it with his nose. You will see him begin to walk
+around the robe and snort, all the time getting a little closer, as if
+drawn up by some magic spell, until he finally gets within reach of it. He
+will then very cautiously stretch out his neck as far as he can reach,
+merely touching it with his nose, as though he thought it was ready to fly
+at him. But after he has repeated these touches a few times, for the first
+(though he has been looking at it all the time) he seems to have an idea
+what it is. But now he has found, by the sense of feeling, that it is
+nothing that will do him any harm, and he is ready to play with it. And if
+you watch him closely, you will see him take hold of it with his teeth,
+and raise it up and pull at it. And in a few minutes you can see that he
+has not that same wild look about his eye, but stands like a horse biting
+at some familiar stump.
+
+Yet the horse is never well satisfied when he is about anything that has
+frightened him, as when he is standing with his nose to it. And, in nine
+cases out of ten, you will see some of that same wild look about him
+again, as he turns to walk from it. And you will, probably, see him
+looking back very suspiciously as he walks away, as though he thought it
+might come after him yet. And, in all probability, he will have to go back
+and make another examination before he is satisfied. But he will
+familiarize himself with it, and, if he should run in that lot a few days,
+the robe that frightened him so much at first, will be no more to him than
+a familiar stump.
+
+
+SUPPOSITIONS ON THE SENSE OF SMELLING.
+
+We might very naturally suppose, from the fact of the horse's applying his
+nose to every thing new to him, that he always does so for the purpose of
+smelling these objects. But I believe that it is as much or more for the
+purpose of feeling; and that he makes use of his nose or muzzle, (as it is
+sometimes called.) as we would of our hands; because it is the only organ
+by which he can touch or feel anything with much susceptibility.
+
+I believe that he invariably makes use of the four senses, seeing,
+hearing, smelling and feeling, in all of his examinations, of which the
+sense of feeling is, perhaps, the most important. And I think that in the
+experiment with the robe, his gradual approach and final touch with his
+nose was as much for the purpose of feeling, as anything else, his sense
+of smell being so keen, that it would not be necessary for him to touch
+his nose against anything in order to get the proper scent; for it is said
+that a horse can smell a man the distance of a mile. And, if the scent of
+the robe was all that was necessary, he could get that several rods off.
+But, we know from experience, that if a horse sees and smells a robe a
+short distance from him, he is very much frightened, (unless he is used to
+it,) until he touches or feels it with his nose; which is a positive proof
+that feeling is the controlling sense in this case.
+
+
+PREVAILING OPINION OF HORSEMEN.
+
+It is a prevailing opinion among horsemen generally, that the sense of
+smell is the governing sense of the horse. And Faucher, as well as others,
+have, with that view, got up receipts of strong smelling oils, etc., to
+tame the horse, sometimes using the chesnut of his leg, which they dry,
+grind into powder and blow into his nostrils. Sometimes using the oil of
+rhodium, organnnum, etc.; that are noted for their strong smell. And
+sometimes they scent the hands with the sweat from under the arm, or blow
+their breath into his nostrils, etc., etc. All of which, as far as the
+scent goes have no effect whatever in gentling the horse, or conveying any
+idea to his mind; though the works that accompany these efforts--handling
+him, touching him about the nose and head, and patting him, as they direct
+you should, after administering the articles, may have a very great
+effect, which they mistake to be the effect of the ingredients used. And
+Faucher, in his work entitled, "The Arabian art of taming Horses," page
+17, tells us how to accustom a horse to a robe, by administering certain
+articles to his nose; and goes on to say, that these articles must first
+be applied to the horse's nose before you attempt to break him, in order
+to operate successfully.
+
+Now, reader, can you, or any one else, give one single reason how scent
+can convey any idea to the horse's mind of what we want him to do? If not,
+then of course strong scents of any kind are of no account in taming the
+unbroken horse. For every thing that we get him to do of his own accord,
+without force, must be accomplished by some means of conveying our ideas
+to his mind. I say to my horse "go 'long" and he goes; "ho!" and he stops:
+because these two words, of which he has learned the meaning by the tap
+of the whip, and the pull of the rein that first accompanied them, convey
+the two ideas to his mind of go and stop.
+
+Faucher, or no one else, can ever learn the horse a single thing by the
+means of a scent alone.
+
+How long do you suppose a horse would have to stand and smell of a bottle
+of oil before he would learn to bend his knee and make a bow at your
+bidding, "go yonder and bring your hat," or "come here and lay down?" Thus
+you see the absurdity of trying to break or tame the horse by the means of
+receipts for articles to smell of, or medicine to give him, of any kind
+whatever.
+
+The only science that has ever existed in the world, relative to the
+breaking of horses, that has been of any account, is that true method
+which takes them in their native state, and improves their intelligence.
+
+
+POWEL'S SYSTEM OF APPROACHING THE COLT.
+
+But, before we go further, I will give you Willis J. Powel's system of
+approaching a wild colt, as given by him in a work published in Europe,
+about the year 1811, on the "Art of taming wild horses." He says, "A horse
+is gentled by my secret, in from two to sixteen hours." The time I have
+most commonly employed has been from four to six hours. He goes on to say:
+"Cause your horse to be put in a small yard, stable, or room. If in a
+stable or room, it ought to be large in order to give him some exercise
+with the halter before you lead him out. If the horse belong to that class
+which appears only to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into
+the stable, room, or yard, where the horse is. He will naturally run from
+you, and frequently turn his head from you; but you must walk about
+extremely slow and softly, so that he can see you whenever he turns his
+head towards you, which he never fails to do in a short time, say in a
+quarter of an hour. I never knew one to be much longer without turning
+towards me.
+
+"At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your left hand towards
+him, and stand perfectly still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, watching
+his motions if he makes any. If the horse does not stir for ten or fifteen
+minutes, advance as slowly as possible, and without making the least
+noise, always holding out your left hand, without any other ingredient in
+it than that what nature put in it." He says, "I have made use of certain,
+ingredients before people, such as the sweat under my arm, etc., to
+disguise the real secret, and many believed that the docility to which
+the horse arrived in so short a time, was owing to these ingredients; but
+you see from this explanation that they were of no use whatever. The
+implicit faith placed in these ingredients, though innocent of themselves,
+becomes 'faith without works.' And thus men remained always in doubt
+concerning this secret. If the horse makes the least motion when you
+advance toward him, stop, and remain perfectly still until he is quiet.
+Remain a few moments in this condition, and then advance again in the same
+slow and imperceptible manner. Take notice: if the horse stirs, stop
+without changing your position. It is very uncommon for the horse to stir
+more than once after you begin to advance, yet there are exceptions. He
+generally keeps his eyes steadfast on you, until you get near enough to
+touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise slowly,
+and by degrees, your hand, and let it come in contact with that part just
+above the nostrils as lightly as possible. If the horse flinches, (as many
+will,) repeat with great rapidity these light strokes upon the forehead,
+going a little further up towards his ears by degrees, and descending with
+the same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. Now
+let the strokes be repeated with more force over all his forehead,
+descending by lighter strokes to each side of his head, until you can
+handle that part with equal facility. Then touch in the same light manner,
+making your hands and fingers play around the lower part of the horse's
+ears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be looked upon
+as the helm that governs all the rest.
+
+"Having succeeded in handling his ears, advance towards the neck, with the
+same precautions, and in the same manner; observing always to augment the
+force of the strokes whenever the horse will permit it. Perform the same
+on both sides of the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms without
+flinching.
+
+"Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to the back
+of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness return
+immediately to the forehead as the true standard, patting him with your
+hands, and from thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, always
+gaining ground a considerable distance farther on every time this happens.
+The head, ears, neck and body being thus gentled, proceed from the back to
+the root of the tail.
+
+"This must be managed with dexterity, as a horse is never to be depended
+on that is skittish about the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidly
+on that part next to the body a minute or two, and then you will begin to
+give it a slight pull upwards every quarter of a minute. At the same time
+you continue this handling of him, augment the force of the strokes, as
+well as the raising of the tail, until you can raise it and handle it with
+the greatest ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in most
+horses; in others almost immediately, and in some much longer. It now
+remains to handle all his legs. From the tail come back again to the head,
+handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc., speaking now and
+then to the horse. Begin by degrees to descend to the legs, always
+ascending and descending, gaining ground every time you descend until you
+get to his feet.
+
+"Talk to the horse in Latin, Greek, French, English, or Spanish, or in any
+other language you please; but let him hear the sound of your voice, which
+at the beginning of the operation is not quite so necessary, but which I
+have always done in making him lift up his feet. Hold up your foot--'Live
+la pied'--'Alza el pie'--'Aron ton poda,' etc., at the same time lift his
+foot with your hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and will
+hold his foot up at command. Then proceed to the hind feet and go on in
+the same manner, and in a short time the horse will let you lift them and
+even take them up in your arms.
+
+"All this operation is no magnetism, no galvanism; it is merely taking
+away the fear a horse generally has of a man, and familiarizing the animal
+with his master; as the horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasure
+from this handling, he will soon become gentle under it, and show a very
+marked attachment to his keeper."
+
+
+REMARKS ON POWEL'S TREATMENT HOW TO GOVERN HORSES OF ANY KIND.
+
+These instructions are very good, but not quite sufficient for horses of
+all kinds, and for haltering and leading the colt; but I have inserted it
+here, because it gives some of the true philosophy of approaching the
+horse, and of establishing confidence between man and horse. He speaks
+only of the kind that fear man.
+
+To those who understand the philosophy of horsemanship, these are the
+easiest trained; for when we have a horse that is wild and lively, we can
+train him to our will in a very short time; for they are generally quick
+to learn, and always ready to obey. But there is another kind that are of
+a stubborn or vicious disposition, and, although they are not wild, and do
+not require taming, in the sense it is generally understood, they are just
+as ignorant as a wild horse, if not more so, and need to be learned just
+as much; and in order to have them obey quickly, it is very necessary that
+they should be made to fear their masters; for, in order to obtain perfect
+obedience from any horse, we must first have him fear us, for our motto is
+_fear, love, and obey_; and we must have the fulfilment of the first two
+before we can expect the latter, and it is by our philosophy of creating
+fear, love and confidence, that we govern to our will every kind of a
+horse whatever.
+
+Then, in order to take horses as we find them, or all kinds, and to train
+them to our likings, we will always take with us, when we go into a stable
+to train a colt, a long switch whip, (whale-bone buggy whips is the best,)
+with a good silk cracker, so as to cut keen and make a sharp report,
+which, if handled with dexterity, and rightly applied, accompanied with a
+sharp, fierce word, will be sufficient to enliven the spirits of any
+horse. With this whip in your right hand, with the lash pointing backward,
+enter the stable alone. It is a great disadvantage in training a horse, to
+have any one in the stable with you; you should be entirely alone, so as
+not to have nothing but yourself to attract his attention. If he is wild
+you will soon see him in the opposite side of the stable from you; and now
+is the time to use a little judgement. I would not want for myself, more
+than half or three-quarters of an hour to handle any kind of a colt, and
+have him running about in the stable after me; though I would advise a new
+beginner to take more time, and not to be in too much of a hurry. If you
+have but one colt to gentle, and are not particular about the length of
+time you spend, and have not had any experience in handling colts, I would
+advise you to take Mr. Powel's method at first, till you gentle him, which
+he says takes from two to six hours. But, as I want to accomplish the
+same, and what is much more, learn the horse to lead in less than one
+hour, I shall give you a much quicker process of accomplishing the same
+end. Accordingly, when you have entered the stable, stand still and let
+your horse look at you a minute or two, and as soon as he is settled in
+one place, approach him slowly, with both arms stationary, your right
+hanging by your side, holding the whip as directed, and the left bent at
+the elbow, with your hand projecting. As you approach him, go not too much
+towards his head or croop, so as not to make him move either forward or
+backward, thus keeping your horse stationary, if he does move a little
+forward or backward, step a little to the right or left very cautiously;
+this will keep him in one place, as you get very near him, draw a little
+to his shoulder, and stop a few seconds. If you are in his reach he will
+turn his head and smell at your hand, not that he has any preference for
+your hand, but because that it is projecting, and is the nearest portion
+of your body to the horse. This all colts will do, and they will smell of
+your naked hand just as quick as they will of any thing that you can put
+in it, and with just as good an effect, however much some men have
+preached the doctrine of taming horses by giving them the scent articles
+from the hand. I have already proved that to be a mistake. As soon as he
+touches his nose to your hand, caress him as before directed, always using
+a very light, soft hand, merely touching the horse, all ways rubbing the
+way the hair lays, so that your hand will pass along as smoothly as
+possible. As you stand by his side you may find it more convenient to rub
+his neck or the side of his head, which will answer the same purpose, as
+rubbing his forehead. Favor every inclination of the horse to smell or
+touch you with his nose. Always follow each touch or communication of this
+kind with the most tender and affectionate caresses, accompanied with a
+kind look, and pleasant word of some sort, such as: Ho! my little boy, ho!
+my little boy, pretty boy, nice lady! or something of that kind,
+constantly repeating the same words, with the same kind, steady tone of
+voice; for the horse soon learns to read the expression of the face and
+voice, and will know as well when fear, love or anger, prevails as you
+know your own feelings; two of which, _fear and anger_, a good horseman
+_should never feel_.
+
+
+HOW TO PROCEED IF YOUR HORSE IS OF A STUBBORN DISPOSITION.
+
+If your horse, instead of being wild, seems to be of a stubborn or
+_mulish_ disposition; if he lays back his ears as you approach him, or
+turns his heels to kick you, he has not that regard or fear of man that he
+should have, to enable you to handle him quickly and easily; and it might
+be well to give him a few sharp cuts with the whip, about the legs, pretty
+close to the body. It will crack keen as it plies around his legs, and the
+crack of the whip will affect him as much as the stroke; besides one sharp
+cut about his legs will affect him more than two or three over his back,
+the skin on the inner part of his legs or about his flank being thinner,
+more tender than on his back. But do not whip him much, just enough to
+scare him, it is not because we want to hurt the horse that we whip him,
+we only do it to scare that bad disposition out of him. But whatever you
+do, do quickly, sharply and with a good deal of fire, but always without
+anger. If you are going to scare him at all you must do it at once. Never
+go into a pitch battle with your horse, and whip him until he is mad and
+will fight you; you had better not touch him at all, for you will
+establish, instead of fear and regard, feelings of resentment, hatred and
+ill-will. It will do him no good but an injury, to strike a blow, unless
+you can scare him; but if you succeed in scaring him, you can whip him
+without making him mad; for fear and anger never exist together in the
+horse, and as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other has
+disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him so that he will stand up
+straight and pay some attention to you, approach him again and caress him
+a good deal more than you whipped him, then you will excite the two
+controlling passions of his nature, love and fear, and then he will fear
+and love you too, and as soon as he learns what to do will quickly obey.
+
+
+HOW TO HALTER AND LEAD THE COLT.
+
+As soon as you have gentled the colt a little, take the halter in your
+left hand and approach him as before, and on the same side that you have
+gentled him. If he is very timid about your approaching closely to him,
+you can get up to him quicker by making the whip a part of your arm, and
+reaching out very gently with the but end of it, rubbing him lightly on
+the neck, all the time getting a little closer, shortening the whip by
+taking it up in your hand, until you finally get close enough to put your
+hands on him. If he is inclined to hold his head from you, put the end of
+the halter strap around his neck, drop your whip, and draw very gently; he
+will let his neck give, and you can pull his head to you. Then take hold
+of that part of the halter, which buckles over the top of his head, and
+pass the long side, or that part which goes into the buckle, under his
+neck, grasping it on the opposite side with your right hand, letting the
+first strap loose--the latter will be sufficient to hold his head to you.
+Lower the halter a little, just enough to get his nose into that part
+which goes around it, then raise it somewhat, and fasten the top buckle,
+and you will have it all right. The first time you halter a colt you
+should stand on the left side, pretty well back to his shoulder only
+taking hold of that part of the halter that goes around his neck, then
+with your hands about his neck you can hold his head to you, and raise the
+halter on it without making him dodge by putting your hands about his
+nose. You should have a long rope or strap ready, and as soon as you have
+the halter on, attach this to it, so that you can let him walk the length
+of the stable without letting go of the strap, or without making him pull
+on the halter, for if you only let him feel the weight of your hand on the
+halter, and give him rope when he runs from you, he will never rear, pull,
+or throw himself, yet you will be holding him all the time, and doing more
+towards gentling him, than if you had the power to snub him right up, and
+hold him to one spot; because, he does not know any thing about his
+strength, and if you don't do any thing to make him pull, he will never
+know that he can. In a few minutes you can begin to control him with the
+halter, then shorten the distance between yourself and the horse, by
+taking up the strap in your hand.
+
+As soon as he will allow you to hold him by a tolerably short strap, and
+step up to him without flying back, you can begin to give him some idea
+about leading. But to do this, do not go before and attempt to pull him
+after you, but commence by pulling him very quietly to one side. He has
+nothing to brace either side of his neck, and will soon yield to a steady,
+gradual pull of the halter; and as soon as you have pulled him a step or
+two to one side, step up to him and caress him, and then pull him again,
+repeating this operation until you can pull him around in every direction,
+and walk about the stable with him, which you can do in a few minutes, for
+he will soon think when you have made him step to the right or left a few
+times, that he is compelled to follow the pull of the halter, not knowing
+that he has the power to resist your pulling; besides, you have handled
+him so gently, that he is not afraid of you, and you always caress him
+when he comes up to you, and he likes that, and would just as leave follow
+you as not. And after he has had a few lessons of that kind, if you turn
+him out in a lot he will come up to you every opportunity he gets. You
+should lead him about in the stable some time before you take him out,
+opening the door, so that he can see out, leading him up to it and back
+again, and past it. See that there is nothing on the outside to make him
+jump, when you take him out, and as you go out with him, try to make him
+go very slowly, catching hold of the halter close to the jaw, with your
+left hand, while the right is resting on the top of the neck, holding to
+his mane. After you are out with him a little while, you can lead him
+about as you please. Don't let any second person come up to you when you
+first take him out; a stranger taking hold of the halter would frighten
+him, and make him run. There should not even be any one standing near him
+to attract his attention, or scare him. If you are alone, and manage him
+right, it will not require any more force to lead or hold him than it
+would to manage a broke horse.
+
+
+HOW TO LEAD A COLT BY THE SIDE OF A BROKEN HORSE.
+
+If you should want to lead your colt by the side of another horse, as is
+often the case, I would advise you to take your horse into the stable,
+attach a second strap to the colt's halter, and lead your horse up
+alongside of him. Then get on the broke horse and take one strap around
+his breast, under his martingale, (if he has any on,) holding it in your
+left hand. This will prevent the colt from getting back too far; besides,
+you will have more power to hold him, with the strap pulling against the
+horse's breast. The other strap take up in your right hand to prevent him
+from running ahead; then turn him about a few times in the stable, and if
+the door is wide enough, ride out with him in that position; if not, take
+the broke horse out first, and stand his breast up against the door, then
+lead the colt to the same spot, and take the straps as before directed,
+one on each side of his neck, then let some one start the colt out, and as
+he comes out, turn your horse to the left, and you will have them all
+right. This is the best way to lead a colt; you can manage any kind of a
+colt in this way, without any trouble; for, if he tries to run ahead, or
+pull back, the two straps will bring the horses facing each other, so that
+you can easily follow up his movements without doing much holding, and as
+soon as he stops running backward you are right with him, and all ready to
+go ahead. And if he gets stubborn and does not want to go, you can remove
+all his stubbornness by riding your horse against his neck, thus
+compelling him to turn to the right, and as soon as you have turned him
+about a few times, he will be willing to go along. The next thing, after
+you are through leading him, will be to take him into a stable, and hitch
+him in such a way as not to have him pull on the halter, and as they are
+often troublesome to get into a stable the first few times, I will give
+you some instructions about getting him in.
+
+
+HOW TO LEAD A COLT INTO THE STABLE AND HITCH HIM WITHOUT HAVING HIM PULL
+ON THE HALTER.
+
+You should lead the broke horse into the stable first, and get the colt,
+if you can, to follow in after him. If he refuses to go, step up to him,
+taking a little stick or switch in your right hand; then take hold of the
+halter close to his head with your left hand, at the same time reaching
+over his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the opposite
+side with your switch; bring him up facing the door, tap him lightly with
+your switch, reaching as far back with it as you can. This tapping, by
+being pretty well back, and on the opposite side, will drive him ahead,
+and keep him close to you, then by giving him the right direction with
+your left hand you can walk into the stable with him. I have walked colts
+into the stable this way, in less than a minute, after men had worked at
+them half an hour, trying to pull them in. If you cannot walk him it at
+once this way, turn him about and walk him round in every direction, until
+you can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then let him stand
+a few minutes, keeping his head in the right direction with the halter,
+and he will walk in, in less than ten minutes. Never attempt to pull the
+colt into the stable; that would make him think at once that it was a
+dangerous place, and if he was not afraid of it before, he would be then.
+Besides we don't want him to know anything about pulling on the halter.
+Colts are often hurt, and sometimes killed, by trying to force them into
+the stable; and those who attempt to do it in that way, go into an up-hill
+business, when a plain smooth road is before them.
+
+If you want to hitch your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall which
+should not be too long, and should be connected by a bar or something of
+that kind to the partition behind it; so that, after the colt is in he
+cannot get far enough back to take a straight, backward pull on the
+halter; then by hitching him in the center of the stall, it would be
+impossible for him to pull on the halter, the partition behind preventing
+him from going back, and the halter in the center checking him every time
+he turns to the left or right. In a state of this kind you can break every
+horse to stand hitched by a light strap, any where, without his ever
+knowing any thing about pulling. But if you have broke your horse to lead,
+and have learned him the use of the halter (which you should always do
+before you hitch him to any thing), you can hitch him in any kind of a
+stall, and give him something to eat to keep him up to his place for a few
+minutes at first and there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on his
+halter.
+
+
+THE KIND OF BIT AND HOW TO ACCUSTOM A HORSE TO IT.
+
+You should use a large, smooth, snaffle bit, so as not to hurt his mouth,
+with a bar to each side, to prevent the bit from pulling through either
+way. This you should attach to the head-stall of your bridle and put it on
+your colt without any reins to it, and let him run loose in a large stable
+or shed, some time, until he becomes a little used to the bit, and will
+bear it without trying to get it out of his mouth. It would be well, if
+convenient, to repeat this several times before you do anything more with
+the colt; as soon as he will bear the bit, attach a single rein to it,
+without any martingale. You should also have a halter on your colt, or a
+bridle made after the fashion of a halter, with a strap to it, so that you
+can hold or lead him about without pulling on the bit much. He is now
+ready for the saddle.
+
+
+HOW TO SADDLE A COLT.
+
+Any one man, who has this theory, can put a saddle on the wildest colt
+that ever grew, without any help, and without scaring him. The first thing
+will be to tie each stirrup strap into a loose knot to make them short,
+and prevent the stirrups from flying about and hitting him. Then double up
+the skirts and take the saddle under your right arm, so as not to frighten
+him with it as you approach. When you get to him, rub him gently a few
+times with your hand, and then raise the saddle very slowly until he can
+see it, and smell, and feel it with his nose. Then let the skirts loose,
+and rub it very gently against his neck the way the hair lays, letting him
+hear the rattle of the skirts as he feels them against him; each time
+getting a little farther backward, and finally slip it over his shoulders
+on his back. Shake it a little with your hand, and in less than five
+minutes you can rattle it about over his back as much as you please, and
+pull it off and throw it on again, without his paying much attention to
+it.
+
+As soon as you have accustomed him to the saddle, fasten the girth. Be
+careful how you do this. It often frightens a Colt when he feels the girth
+binding him, and making the saddle fit tight on his back. You should bring
+up the girth very gently, and not draw it too tight at first, just enough
+to hold the saddle on. Move him a little, and then girth it as tight as
+you choose, and he will not mind it.
+
+You should see that the pad of your saddle is all right before you put it
+on, and that there is nothing to make it hurt him, or feel unpleasant to
+his back. It should not have any loose straps on the back part of it to
+flap about and scare him. After you have saddled him in this way, take a
+switch in your right hand to tap him up with, and walk about in the stable
+a few times with your right arm over the saddle, taking hold of the reins
+on each side of his neck, with your right and left hands. Thus marching
+him about in the stable until you learn him the use of the bridle, and can
+turn him about in any direction, and stop him by a gentle pull of the
+rein. Always caress him, and loose the reins a little every time you stop
+him.
+
+You should always be alone, and have your colt in some tight stable or
+shed, the first time you ride him; the loft should be high so that you can
+sit on his back without endangering your head. You can learn him more in
+two hours time in a stable of this kind, than you could in two weeks in
+the common way of breaking colts, out in an open place. It you follow my
+course of treatment, you need not run any risk, or have any trouble in
+riding the worst kind of a horse. You take him a step at a time, until you
+get up a mutual confidence and trust between yourself and horse. First
+learn him to lead and stand hitched, next acquaint him with the saddle,
+and the use of the bit; and then all that remains, is to get on him
+without scaring him, and you can ride him as well as any horse.
+
+
+HOW TO MOUNT THE COLT.
+
+First gentle him well on both sides, about the saddle, and all over,
+until he will stand still without holding, and is not afraid to see you
+any where about him.
+
+As soon as you have him thus gentled, get a small block, about one foot or
+eighteen inches in height, and set it down by the side of him, about where
+you want to stand to mount him; step up on this, raising yourself very
+gently; horses notice every change of position very closely, and if you
+were to step up suddenly on the block, it would be very apt to scare him;
+but by raising yourself gradually on it, he will see you, without being
+frightened, in a position very near the same as when you are on his back.
+
+As soon as he will bear this without alarm, untie the stirrup strap next
+to you, and put your left foot into the stirrup, and stand square over it,
+holding your knee against the horse, and your toe out, so as to touch him
+under the shoulder with the toe of your boot. Place your right hand on the
+front of the saddle and on the opposite side of you. Taking hold of a
+portion of the mane and the reins as they hang loosely over his neck with
+your left hand; then gradually bear your weight on the stirrup, and on
+your right hand, until the horse feels your whole weight on the saddle;
+repeat this several times, each time raising yourself a little higher from
+the block, until he will allow you to raise your leg over his croop, and
+place yourself in the saddle.
+
+There are three great advantages in having a block to mount from. First, a
+sudden change of position is very apt to frighten a young horse that has
+never been handled; he will allow you to walk up to him, and stand by his
+side without scaring at you, because you have gentled him to that
+position, but if you get down on your hands and knees and crawl towards
+him, he will be very much frightened, and upon the same principle, he
+would frighten at your new position if you had the power to hold yourself
+over his back without touching him. Then the first great advantage of the
+block is to gradually gentle him to that new position in which he will see
+you when you ride him.
+
+Secondly, by the process of leaning your weight in the stirrups, and on
+your hand, you can gradually accustom him to your weight, so as not to
+frighten him by having him feel it all at once. And in the third place the
+block elevates you so that you will not have to make a spring in order to
+get on to the horse's back, but from it you can gradually raise yourself
+into the saddle. When you take these precautions, there is no horse so
+wild, but what you can mount him without making him jump. I have tried it
+on the worst horses that could be found, and have never failed in any
+case. When mounting, your horse should always stand without being held. A
+horse is never well broke when he has to be held with a tight rein while
+mounting; and a colt is never so safe to mount, as when you see that
+assurance of confidence, and absence of fear, which causes him to stand
+without holding.
+
+
+HOW TO RIDE THE COLT.
+
+When you want him to start do not touch him on the side with your heel or
+do anything to frighten him and make him jump. But speak to him kindly,
+and if he does not start pull him a little to the left until he starts,
+and then let him walk off slowly with the reins loose. Walk him around in
+the stable a few times until he gets used to the bit, and you can turn him
+about in every direction and stop him as you please. It would be well to
+get on and off a good many times until he gets perfectly used to it before
+you take him out of the stable.
+
+After you have trained him in this way, which should not take you more
+than one or two hours, you can ride him any where you choose without ever
+having him jump or make any effort to throw you.
+
+When you first take him out of the stable be very gentle with him, as he
+will feel a little more at liberty to jump or run, and be a little easier
+frightened than he was while in the stable. But after handling him so much
+in the stable he will be pretty well broke, and you will be able to manage
+him without trouble or danger.
+
+When you first mount him take a little the shortest hold on the left rein,
+so that if any thing frightens him you can prevent him jumping by pulling
+his head around to you. This operation of pulling a horse's head around
+against his side will prevent any horse from jumping ahead, rearing up, or
+running away. If he is stubborn and will not go you can make him move by
+pulling his head around to one side, when whipping would have no effect.
+And turning him around a few times will make him dizzy, and then by
+letting him have his head straight, and giving him a little touch with the
+whip, he will go along without any trouble.
+
+Never use martingales on a colt when you first ride him; every movement of
+the hand should go right to the bit in the direction in which it is
+applied to the reins, without a martingale to change the direct of the
+force applied. You can guide the colt much better without them, and learn
+him the use of the bit in much less time. Besides, martingales would
+prevent you from pulling his head around if he should try to jump.
+
+After your colt has been rode until he is gentle and well accustomed to
+the bit, you may find it an advantage if he carries his head too high, or
+his nose too far out, to put martingales on him.
+
+You should be careful not to ride your colt so far at first as to heat,
+worry or tire him. Get off as soon as you see he is a little fatigued;
+gentle him and let him rest, this will make him kind to you and prevent
+him from getting stubborn or mad.
+
+
+THE PROPER WAY TO BIT A COLT.
+
+Farmers often put bitting harness on a colt the first thing they do to
+him, buckling up the bitting as tight as they can draw it to make him
+carry his head high, and then turn him out in a lot to run a half day at a
+time. This is one of the worst punishments that they could inflict on the
+colt, and very injurious to a young horse that has been used to running in
+pasture with his head down. I have seen colts so injured in this way that
+they never got over it.
+
+A horse should be well accustomed to the bit before you put on the bitting
+harness, and when you first bit him you should only rein his head up to
+that point where he naturally holds it, let that be high or low; he will
+soon learn that he cannot lower his head, and that raising it a little
+will loosen the bit in his mouth. This will give him the idea of raising
+his head to loosen the bit, and then you can draw the bitting a little
+tighter every time you put it on, and he will still raise his head to
+loosen it; by this means you will gradually get his head and neck in the
+position you want him to carry it, and give him a nice and graceful
+carriage without hurting him, making him mad, or causing his mouth to get
+sore.
+
+If you put the bitting on very tight the first time, he cannot raise his
+head enough to loosen it, but will bear on it all the time, and paw, sweat
+and throw himself. Many horses have been killed by falling backward with
+the bitting on, their heads being drawn up, strike the ground with the
+whole weight of the body. Horses that have their heads drawn up tightly
+should not have the bitting on more than fifteen or twenty minutes at a
+time.
+
+
+HOW TO DRIVE A HORSE THAT IS VERY WILD, AND HAS ANY VICIOUS HABIT
+
+Take up one fore foot and bend his knee till his hoof is bottom upwards,
+and merely touching his body, then slip a loop over his knee, and up until
+it comes above the pasture joint to keep it up, being careful to draw the
+loop together between the hoof and pasture joint with a second strap of
+some kind, to prevent the loop from slipping down and coming off. This
+will leave the horse standing on three legs; you can now handle him as you
+wish, for it is utterly impossible for him to kick in this position.
+There is something in this operation of taking up one foot that conquers a
+horse quicker and better than any thing else you can do to him. There is
+no process in the world equal to it to break a kicking horse, for several
+reasons. First, there is a principle of this kind in the nature of the
+horse; that by conquering one member you conquer to a great extent the
+whole horse.
+
+You have perhaps seen men operate upon this principle by sewing a horse's
+ears together to prevent him from kicking. I once saw a plan given in a
+newspaper to make a bad horse stand to be shod, which was to fasten down
+one ear. There were no reasons given why you should do so; but I tried it
+several times, and thought it had a good effect--though I would not
+recommend its use, especially stitching his ears together. The only
+benefit arising from this process is, that by disarranging his ears we
+draw his attention to them, and he is not so apt to resist the shoeing. By
+tying up one foot we operate on the same principle to a much better
+effect. When you first fasten up a horse's foot he will sometimes get very
+mad, and strike with his knee, and try every possible way to get it down;
+but he cannot do that, and will soon give it up.
+
+This will conquer him better than anything you could do, and without any
+possible danger of hurting himself or you either, for you can tie up his
+foot and sit down and look at him until he gives up. When you find that he
+is conquered, go to him, let down his foot, rub his leg with your hand,
+caress him and let him rest a little, then put it up again. Repeat this a
+few times, always putting up the same foot, and he will soon learn to
+travel on three legs so that you can drive him some distance. As soon as
+he gets a little used to this way of traveling, put on your harness and
+hitch him to a sulky. If he is the worst kicking horse that ever raised a
+foot you need not be fearful of his doing any damage while he has one foot
+up, for he cannot kick, neither can he run fast enough to do any harm. And
+if he is the wildest horse that ever had harness on, and has run away
+every time he has been hitched, you can now hitch him in a sulky and drive
+him as you please. And if he wants to run you can let him have the lines,
+and the whip too, with perfect safety, for he cannot go but a slow gait on
+three legs, and will soon be tired and willing to stop; only hold him
+enough to guide him in the right direction, and he will soon be tired and
+willing to stop at the word. Thus you will effectually cure him at once of
+any further notion of running off. Kicking horses have always been the
+dread of every body; you always hear men say, when they speak about a bad
+horse, "I don't care what he does, so he don't kick." This new method is
+an effectual cure for this worst of all habits. There are plenty of ways
+by which you can hitch a kicking horse and force him to go, though he
+kicks all the time; but this don't have any good effect towards breaking
+him, for we know that horses kick because they are afraid of what is
+behind them, and when they kick against it and it hurts them they will
+only kick the harder, and this will hurt them still more and make them
+remember the scrape much longer, and make it still more difficult to
+persuade them to have any confidence in any thing dragging behind them
+ever after.
+
+But by this new method you can hitch them to a rattling sulky, plow,
+wagon, or anything else in its worst shape. They may be frightened at
+first, but cannot kick or do any thing to hurt themselves, and will soon
+find that you do not intend to hurt them, and then they will not care any
+thing more about it. You can then let down the leg and drive along gently
+without any farther trouble. By this new process a bad kicking horse can
+be learned to go gentle in harness in a few hours' time.
+
+
+ON BALKING.
+
+Horses know nothing about balking, only as they are brought into it by
+improper management, and when a horse balks in harness it is generally
+from some mismanagement, excitement, confusion, or from not knowing how to
+pull, but seldom from any unwillingness to perform all that he
+understands. High spirited, free going horses are the most subject to
+balking, and only so because drivers do not properly understand how to
+manage this kind. A free horse in a team may be so anxious to go that when
+he hears the word he will start with a jump, which will not move the load,
+but give him such a severe jerk on the shoulders that he will fly back and
+stop the other horse; the teamster will continue his driving without any
+cessation, and by the time he has the slow horse started again he will
+find that the free horse has made another jump, and again flew back, and
+now he has them both badly balked, and so confused that neither of them
+knows what is the matter, or how to start the load. Next will come the
+slashing and cracking of the whip, and hallooing of the driver, till
+something is broken or he is through with his course of treatment. But
+what a mistake the driver commits by whipping his horse for this act.
+Reason and common sense should teach him that the horse was willing and
+anxious to go, but did not know how to start the load. And should he whip
+him for that? If so, he should whip him again for not knowing how to talk.
+A man that wants to act with any rationality or reason should not fly into
+a passion, but should always think before he strikes. It takes a steady
+pressure against the collar to move a load, and you cannot expect him to
+act with a steady, determined purpose while you are whipping him. There is
+hardly one balking horse in five hundred that will pull true from
+whipping; it is only adding fuel to fire, and will make them more liable
+to balk another time. You always see horses that have been balked a few
+times, turn their heads and look back, as soon as they are a little
+frustrated. This is because they have been whipped and are afraid of what
+is behind them. This is an invariable rule with balked horses, just as
+much as it is for them to look around at their sides when they have the
+bots; in either case they are deserving of the same sympathy and the same
+kind, rational treatment.
+
+When your horse balks, or is a little excited, if he wants to start
+quickly, or looks around and don't want to go, there is something wrong,
+and needs kind he treatment immediately. Caress him kindly, and if he
+don't understand at once what you want him to do he will not be so much
+excited as to jump and break things, and do everything wrong through fear.
+As long as you are calm and can keep down the excitement of the horse,
+there are ten chances to have him understand you, where there would not be
+one under harsh treatment, and then the little _flare up_ would not carry
+with it any unfavorable recollections, and he would soon forget all about
+it, and learn to pull true. Almost every wrong act the horse commits is
+from mismanagement, fear or excitement; one harsh word will so excite a
+nervous horse as to increase his pulse ten beats in a minute.
+
+When we remember that we are dealing with dumb brutes, and reflect how
+difficult it must be for them to understand our motions, signs and
+language, we should never get out of patience with them because they don't
+understand us, or wonder at their doing things wrong. With all our
+intellect, if we were placed in the horse's situation, it would be
+difficult for us to understand the driving of some foreigner, of foreign
+ways and foreign language. We should always recollect that our ways and
+language are just as foreign and unknown to the horse as any language in
+the world is to us, and should try to practice what we could understand,
+were we the horse, endeavoring by some simple means to work on his
+understanding rather than on the different parts of his body. All balked
+horses can be started true and steady in a few minutes time; they are all
+willing to pull as soon as they know how, and I never yet found a balked
+horse that I could not teach him to start his load in fifteen, and often
+less than three minutes time.
+
+Almost any team, when first balked, will start kindly, if you let them
+stand five or ten minutes, as though there was nothing wrong, and then
+speak to them with a steady voice, and turn them a little to the right or
+left, so as to get them both in motion before they feel the pinch of the
+load. But if you want to start a team that you are not driving yourself,
+that has been balked, fooled and whipped for some time, go to them and
+hang the lines on their hames, or fasten them to the wagon, so that they
+will be perfectly loose; make the driver and spectators (if there is any)
+stand off some distance to one side, so as not to attract the attention of
+the horses; unloose their checkreins, so that they can get their heads
+down, if they choose; let them stand a few minutes in this condition,
+until you can see that they are a little composed. While they are standing
+you should be about their heads, gentling them; it will make them a little
+more kind, and the spectators will think that you are doing something that
+they do not understand, and will not learn the secret. When you have them
+ready to start, stand before them, and as you seldom have but one balky
+horse in a team, get as near in front of him as you can, and if he is too
+fast for the other horse, let his nose come against your breast; this will
+keep him steady, for he will go slow rather than run on you; turn them
+gently to the right, without letting them pull on the traces, as far as
+the tongue will let them go; stop them with a kind word, gentle them a
+little, and then turn them back to the left, by the same process. You will
+have them under your control by this time, and as you turn them again to
+the right, steady them in the collar, and you can take them where you
+please.
+
+There is a quicker process that will generally start a balky horse, but
+not so sure. Stand him a little ahead, so that his shoulders will be
+against the collar, and then take up one of his fore feet in your hand,
+and let the driver start them, and when the weight comes against his
+shoulders, he will try to step; then let him have his foot, and he will go
+right along. If you want to break a horse from balking that has long been
+in that habit, you ought to set apart a half day for that purpose. Put him
+by the side of some steady horse; have check lines on them; tie up all the
+traces and straps, so that there will be nothing to excite them; do not
+rein them up, but let them have their heads loose. Walk them about
+together for some time as slowly and lazily as possible; stop often, and
+go up to your balky horse and gentle him. Do not take any whip about him,
+or do any thing to excite him, but keep him just as quiet as you can. He
+will soon learn to start off at the word, and stop whenever you tell him.
+
+As soon as he performs right, hitch him in an empty wagon; have it stand
+in a favorable position for starting. It would be well to shorten the stay
+chain behind the steady horse, so that if it is necessary he can take the
+weight of the wagon the first time you start them. Do not drive but a few
+rods at first; watch your balky horse closely, and if you see that he is
+getting balky, stop him before he stops of his own accord, caress him a
+little, and start again. As soon as they go well, drive them over a small
+hill a few times, and then over a large one, occasionally adding a little
+load. This process will make any horse true to pull.
+
+
+TO BREAK A HORSE TO HARNESS.
+
+Take him in a tight stable, as you did to ride him; take the harness and
+go through the same process that you did with the saddle, until you get
+him familiar with them, so that you can put them on him and rattle them
+about without his caring for them. As soon as he will bear this, put on
+the lines, caress him as you draw them over him, and drive him about in
+the stable till he will bear them over his hips. The _lines_ are a great
+aggravation to some colts, and often frighten them as much as if you were
+to raise a whip over them. As soon as he is familiar with the harness and
+line, take him out and put him by the side of a gentle horse, and go
+through the same process that you did with the balking horse. Always use a
+bridle without blinds when you are breaking a horse to harness.
+
+
+HOW TO HITCH A HORSE IN A SULKY.
+
+Lead him to and around it; let him look at it, touch it with his nose, and
+stand by it till he does not care for it; then pull the shafts a little to
+the left, and stand by your horse in front of the off wheel. Let some one
+stand on the right side of the horse, and hold him by the bit, while you
+stand on the left side, facing the sulky. This will keep him straight. Run
+your left hand back and let it rest on his hip, and lay hold of the shafts
+with your right, bringing them up very gently to the left hand, which
+still remains stationary. Do not let anything but your arm touch his back,
+and as soon as you have the shafts square over him, let the person on the
+opposite side take hold of one of them and lower them very gently on the
+shaft bearers. Be very slow and deliberate about hitching; the longer time
+you take, the better, as a general thing. When you have the shafts placed,
+shake them slightly, so that he will feel them against each side. As soon
+as he will bear them without scaring, fasten your braces, etc., and start
+him along very slowly. Let one man lead the horse to keep him gentle,
+while the other gradually works back with the lines till he can get behind
+and drive him. After you have driven him in this way a short distance, you
+can get into the sulky, and all will go right. It is very important to
+have your horse go gently, when you first hitch him. After you have walked
+him awhile, there is not half so much danger of his scaring. Men do very
+wrong to jump up behind a horse to drive him as soon as they have him
+hitched. There are too many things for him to comprehend all at once. The
+shafts, the lines, the harness, and the rattling of the sulky, all tend to
+scare him, and he must be made familiar with them by degrees. If your
+horse is very wild, I would advise you to put up one foot the first time
+you drive him.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A HORSE LIE DOWN.
+
+Every thing that we want to learn the horse must be commenced in some way
+to give him an idea of what you want him to do, and then be repeated till
+he learns it perfectly. To make a horse lie down, bend his left fore leg,
+and slip a loop over it, so that he cannot get it down. Then put a
+circingle around his body, and fasten one end of a long strap around the
+other fore leg, just above the hoof. Place the other end under the
+circingle, so as to keep the strap in the right hand; stand on the left
+side of the horse, grasp the bit in your left hand, pull steadily on the
+strap with your right; bear against his shoulder till you cause him to
+move. As soon as he lifts his weight, your pulling will raise the other
+foot, and he will have to come on his knees. Keep the strap tight in your
+hand, so that he cannot straighten his leg if he raises up. Hold him in
+his position, and turn his head toward you; bear against his side with
+your shoulder, not hard, but with a steady equal pressure, and in about
+ten minutes he will lie down. As soon as he lies down he will be
+completely conquered, and you can handle him as you please. Take off the
+straps, and straighten out his legs; rub him lightly about the face and
+neck with your hand the way the hair lays; handle all his legs, and after
+he has lain ten or twenty minutes, let him get up again. After resting him
+a short time, make him lie down as before. Repeat the operation three or
+four times, which will be sufficient for one lesson. Give him two lessons
+a day, and when you have given him four lessons, he will lie down by
+taking hold of one foot. As soon as he is well broken to lie down in this
+way, tap him on the opposite leg with a stick when you take hold of his
+foot, and in a few days he will lie down from the mere motion of the
+stick.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A HORSE FOLLOW YOU.
+
+Turn him into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance to get out,
+with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him a little, take hold
+of his halter and turn him towards you, at the same time touching him
+lightly over the hips with a long whip. Lead him the length of the stable,
+rubbing him on the neck, saying in a steady tone of voice as you lead him,
+COME ALONG BOY! or use his name instead of boy, if you choose. Every time
+you turn, touch him slightly with the whip, to make him step up close to
+you, and then caress him with your hand. He will soon learn to hurry up to
+escape the whip and be caressed, and you can make him follow you around
+without taking hold of the halter. If he should stop and turn from you,
+give him a few cuts about the hind legs, and he will soon turn his head
+toward you, when you must always caress him. A few lessons of this kind
+will make him run after you, when he sees the motion of the whip--in
+twenty or thirty minutes he will follow you about the stable. After you
+have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out into a
+small lot and train him; and from thence you can take him into the road
+and make him follow you anywhere, and run after you.
+
+
+HOW TO MAKE A HORSE STAND WITHOUT HOLDING.
+
+After you have him well broken to follow you, stand him in the center of
+the stable--begin at his head to caress him, gradually working backward.
+If he move, give him a cut with the whip and put him back in the same spot
+from which he started. If he stands, caress him as before, and continue
+gentling him in this way until you can get round him without making him
+move. Keep walking around him, increasing your pace, and only touch him
+occasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around and if he then moves,
+give him another cut with the whip and put him back to his place. If he
+stands, go to him frequently and caress him, and then walk around him
+again. Do not keep him in one position too long at a time, but make him
+come to you occasionally and follow you round in the stable. Then stand
+him in another place, and proceed as before. You should not train your
+horse more than half an hour at a time.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE HORSEMAN'S GUIDE
+
+AND
+
+FARRIER.
+
+
+BY JOHN J. STUTZMAN, WEST RUSHVILLE, FAIRFIELD COUNTY, OHIO.
+
+
+I will here insert some of the most efficient cures of diseases to which
+the horse is subject. I have practised them for many years with
+unparalleled success. I have cured horses with the following remedies,
+which, (in many cases,) have been given up in despair, and I never had a
+case in which I did not effect a cure.
+
+
+CURE FOR COLIC.
+
+Take 1 gill of turpentine, 1 gill of opium dissolved in whisky; 1 quart of
+water, milk warm. Drench the horse and move him about slowly. If there is
+no relief in fifteen minutes, take a piece of chalk, about the size of an
+egg, powder it, and put it into a pint of cider vinegar, which should be
+blood warm, give that, and then move him as before.
+
+ANOTHER.--Take 1 ounce laudanum, 1 ounce of ether, 1 ounce of tincture of
+assafoetida, 2 ounces tincture of peppermint, half pint of whisky; put all
+in a quart bottle, shake it well and drench the horse.
+
+
+CURE FOR THE BOTS.
+
+Take 1-1/2 pint of fresh milk, (just from the cow,) 1 pint of molasses.
+Drench the horse and bleed him in the mouth; then give him 1 pint of
+linseed oil to remove them.
+
+
+FOR DISTEMPER.
+
+Take mustard seed ground fine, tar and rye chop, make pills about the size
+of a hen's egg. Give him six pills every six hours, until they physic him;
+then give him one table spoonful of the horse powder mentioned before,
+once a day, until cured. Keep him from cold water for six hours after
+using the powder.
+
+
+LONG FEVER.
+
+In the first place bleed the horse severely. Give him spirits of nitre,
+in water which should not be too cold, for it would chill him. Keep him
+well covered with blankets, and rub his legs and body well; blister him
+around the chest with mustard seed, and be sure to give him no cold water,
+unless there is spirits of nitre in it.
+
+
+RHEUMATIC LINIMENT.
+
+Take croton oil, aqua ammonia, f.f.f; oil of cajuput, oil of origanum, in
+equal parts. Rub well. It is good for spinal diseases and weak back.
+
+
+CUTS AND WOUNDS OF ALL KINDS.
+
+One pint of alcohol, half ounce of gum of myrrh, half ounce aloes, wash
+once a day.
+
+
+SPRAINS AND SWELLINGS.
+
+Take 1-1/2 ounces of harts-horn, 1 ounce camphor, 2 ounces spirits of
+turpentine, 4 ounces sweet oil, 8 ounces alcohol. Anoint twice a day.
+
+
+FOR GLANDERS.
+
+Take of burnt buck's horn a table spoonful, every three days for nine
+days. If there is no relief in that time, continue the powder until there
+is relief.
+
+
+SADDLE OR COLLAR LINIMENT.
+
+One ounce of spirits of turpentine, half ounce of oil of spike, half ounce
+essence of wormwood, half ounce castile soap, half ounce gum camphor, half
+ounce sulphuric ether, half pint alcohol, and wash freely.
+
+
+LINIMENT TO SET THE STIFLE JOINT ON A HORSE.
+
+One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce oil amber. Shake
+it well and rub the joints twice a day until cured, which will be in two
+or three days.
+
+
+EYE WATER.
+
+I have tried the following and found it an efficient remedy. I have tried
+it on my own eyes and those of others. Take bolus muna 1 ounce, white
+vitrol 1 ounce, alum half ounce, with one pint clear rain water: shake it
+well before using. If too strong, weaken it with rain water.
+
+
+LINIMENT FOR WINDGALLS, STRAINS AND GROWTH OF LUMPS ON MAN OR HORSE.
+
+One ounce oil of spike, half ounce origanum, half ounce amber, aqua fortis
+and sal amoniac 1 drachm, spirits of salts 1 drachm oil of sassafras half
+ounce, harts-horn half ounce. Bathe once or twice a day.
+
+
+HORSE POWDER.
+
+This powder will cure more diseases than any other medicine known; such as
+Distemper, Fersey, Hidebound, Colds, and all lingering diseases which may
+arise from impurity of the blood or lungs.--Take 1 lb. comfrey root, half
+lb. antimony, half lb. sulphur, 3 oz. of saltpetre, half lb. laurel
+berries, half lb. juniper berries, half lb. angetice seed, half lb. rosin,
+3 oz. alum, half lb. copperas, half lb. master wort, half lb. gun powder.
+Mix all to a powder and give in the most cases, one table spoonful in mash
+feed once a day till cured. Keep the horse dry, and keep him from the cold
+water six hours after using it.
+
+
+FOR CUTS OR WOUNDS ON HORSE OR MAN.
+
+Take fishworms mashed up with old bacon oil, and tie on the wound, which
+is the surest and safest cure.
+
+
+OIL FOR COLLARS.
+
+This oil will also cure bruises, sores, swellings, strains or galls. Take
+fishworms and put them in a crock or other vessel 24 hours, till they
+become clean; then put them in a bottle and throw plenty of salt upon
+them, place them near a stove and they will turn to oil; rub the parts
+affected freely. I have cured knee-sprung horses with this oil frequently.
+
+
+SORE AND SCUMMED EYES ON HORSES.
+
+Take fresh butter or rabbit's fat, honey, and the white of three eggs,
+well stirred up with salt, and black pepper ground to a fine powder; mix
+it well and apply to the eye with a feather. Also rub above the eye (in
+the hollow,) with the salve. Wash freely with cold spring water.
+
+
+FOR A BRUISED EYE.
+
+Take rabbit's fat, and use as above directed. Bathe freely with fresh
+spring water. I have cured many bloodshot eyes with this simple remedy.
+
+
+POLL-EVIL OR FISTULA.
+
+Take of Spanish flies 1 oz., gum euphorbium 3 drachms, tartar emetic 1
+oz., rosin 3 oz.; mix and pulverize, and then mix them with a half lb. of
+lard. Anoint every three days for three weeks; grease the parts affected
+with lard every four days. Wash with soap and water before using the
+salve. In poll-evil, if open, pulverize black bottle glass, put as much in
+each ear as will lay on a dime. The above is recommended in outside
+callous, such as spavin, ringbone, curbs, windgalls, etc. etc.
+
+
+FOR THE FERSEY.
+
+Take 1 quart of sassafras root bark, 1 quart burdock root, spice wood
+broke fine, 1 pint rattle weed root. Boil in 1-1/2 gallons of water; scald
+bran; when cool give it to the horse once a day for 3 or 4 days. Then
+bleed him in the neck and give him the horse powder as directed. In
+extreme cases, I also rowel in the breast and hind legs, to extract the
+corruption and remove the swelling. This is also an efficient remedy for
+blood diseases, etc., etc.
+
+
+TO MAKE THE HAIR GROW ON MAN OR BEAST.
+
+Take milk of sulphur 1/2 drachm, sugar of lead 1/2 drachm, rose water 1/2
+gill, mix and bathe well twice a day for ten days.
+
+
+CHOLERA OR DIARRHEA TINCTURE.
+
+1 oz. of laudanum, 1 oz. of spirits of camphor, 1 oz. spirits of nitre,
+1/2 oz. essence of peppermint, 20 drops of chloroform; put all in a
+bottle, shake well, and take 1/2 teaspoonful in cold water once every six,
+twelve and twenty-four hours, according to the nature of the case.
+
+
+CURE FOR THE HEAVES.
+
+Give 30 grains of tartar emetic every week until cured.
+
+
+PROCESS OF CAUSING A HORSE TO LAY DOWN.
+
+Approach him gently upon the left side, fasten a strap around the ancle of
+his fore-foot; then raise the foot gently, so as to bring the knee against
+the breast and the foot against the belly. The leg being in this position,
+fasten the strap around his arm, which will effectually prevent him from
+putting that foot to the ground again. Then fasten a strap around the
+opposite leg, and bring it over his shoulder, on the left side, so that
+you can catch hold of it; then push these gently, and when he goes to
+fall, pull the strap, which will bring him on his knees.
+
+Now commence patting him under the belly; by continuing your gentle
+strokes upon the belly, you will, in a few minutes, bring him to his knees
+behind. Continue the process, and he will lie entirely down, and submit
+himself wholly to your treatment. By thus proceeding gently, you may
+handle his feet and legs in any way you choose.
+
+However wild and fractious a horse may be naturally, after practicing this
+process a few times, you will find him perfectly gentle and submissive,
+and even disposed to follow you anywhere, and unwilling to leave you on
+any occasion.
+
+Unless the horse be wild, the first treatment will be all sufficient; but
+should he be too fractious to be approached in a manner necessary to
+perform the first named operation, this you will find effectual, and you
+may then train your horse to harness or anything else with the utmost
+ease.
+
+In breaking horses for harness, after giving the powders, put the harness
+on gently, without startling him, and pat him gently, then fasten _the
+chain_ to a log, which he will draw for an indefinite length of time. When
+you find him sufficiently gentle, place him to a wagon or other vehicle.
+
+NOTE.--Be _extremely_ careful in catching a horse, not to affright him.
+After he is caught, and the powders given, rub him gently on the head,
+neck, back and legs, and on each side of the eyes, the way the hair lies,
+but be very careful not to whip, for a young horse is equally passionate
+with yourself, and this pernicious practice has ruined many fine and
+valuable horses. When you are riding a colt (or even an old horse), do not
+whip him if he scares, but draw the bridle, so that his eye may rest upon
+the object which has affrighted him, and pat him upon the neck as you
+approach it; by this means you will pacify him, and render him less liable
+to start in future.
+
+
+MEANS OF LEARNING A HORSE TO PACE.
+
+Buckle a four pound weight around the ancles of his hind legs, (lead is
+preferable) ride your horse briskly with those weights upon his ancles, at
+the same time, twitching each rein of the bridle alternately, by this
+means you will immediately throw him into a pace. After you have trained
+him in this way to some extent, change your leaded weights for something
+lighter; leather padding, or something equal to it, will answer the
+purpose; let him wear these light weights until he is perfectly trained.
+This process will make a smooth and easy pacer of any horse.
+
+
+HORSEMANSHIP.
+
+The rider should, in the first place, let the horse know that he is not
+afraid of him. Before mounting a horse, take the rein into the left hand,
+draw it tightly, put the left foot in the stirrup, and raise quickly. When
+you are seated press your knees to the saddle, let your leg, from the
+knee, stand out; turn your toe in and heel out; sit upright in your
+saddle, throw your weight forward--one third of it in the stirrups--and
+hold your rein tight. Should your horse scare, you are braced in your
+saddle and he cannot throw you.
+
+
+INDICATION OF A HORSE'S DISPOSITION.
+
+A long, thin neck indicates a good disposition, contrariwise, if it be
+short and thick. A broad forehead, high between the ears, indicates a very
+vicious disposition.
+
+
+CURES, &C.
+
+_Cure for the Founder._--Let 1-1/2 gallons of blood from the neck vein,
+make frequent applications of hot water to his forelegs; after which,
+bathe them in wet cloths, then give one quart Linseed Oil. The horse will
+be ready for service the next day.
+
+_Botts._--Mix one pint honey with one quart sweet milk, give as a drench,
+one hour after, dissolve 1 oz. pulverized Coperas in a pint of water, use
+likewise, then give one quart of Linseed Oil. Cure effectual.
+
+_Colic._--After bleeding copiously in the mouth, take a half pound of raw
+cotton, wrap it around a coal of fire in such a way as to exclude the air;
+when it begins to smoke, hold it under the horse's nose until he becomes
+easy. Cure certain in ten minutes.
+
+_Distemper._--Take 1-1/2 gallons blood from the neck vein, then give a
+dose of Sassafras Oil, 1-1/2 ounces is sufficient. Cure speedy and
+certain.
+
+_Fistula._--When it makes its appearance, rowel both sides of the
+shoulder; if it should break, take one ounce of verdigris, 1 ounce oil
+rosin, 1 ounce copperas, pulverize and mix together. Use it as a salve.
+
+
+RECEIPT FOR BONE SPAVIN OR RING-BONE.
+
+Take a table-spoonful of corrosive sublimate; quicksilver about the size
+of a bean; 3 or 4 drops of muriatic acid; iodine about the size of a pea,
+and lard enough to form a paste; grind the iodine and sublimate fine as
+flour, and put altogether in a cup, mix well, then shear the hair all off
+the size you want; wash clean with soap-suds, rub dry, then apply the
+medicine. Let it stay on five days; if it does not take effect, take it
+off, mix it over with a little more lard, and add some fresh medicine.
+When the lump comes out, wash it clean in soap-suds, then apply a poultice
+of cow dung, leave it on twelve hours, then apply healing medicine.
+
+
+TEMPERANCE BEVERAGE.
+
+One quart of water, three pounds of sugar, one teaspoonful of lemon oil,
+one table-spoonful of flour, with the white of four eggs, well beat up.
+Mix the above well together, then divide the syrup, and add four ounces of
+carbonic soda in one-half, and three ounces of tartaric acid in the other
+half; then bottle for use.
+
+
+SARSAPARILLA SYRUP.
+
+One ounce Sarsaparilla, two pounds brown sugar, ten drops wintergreen, and
+half pint of water.
+
+
+
+
+
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+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Arabian Art of Taming and Training
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