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diff --git a/old/14594-h.zip b/old/14594-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 681ba39..0000000 --- a/old/14594-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/14594-h/14594-h.htm b/old/14594-h/14594-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index a56c31e..0000000 --- a/old/14594-h/14594-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12063 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" -"DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> - -<html> - -<head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" /> - -<style type="text/css"> -<!-- -a:link {color:#0000cc; - text-decoration:none} -link {color:#0000cc; - text-decoration:none} -a:visited {color:#000066; - text-decoration:none} -a:hover {color:red} - -BODY { - background: #FFFFFF; - color: #000000; - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - } - -pre { - font-size: 9pt; -} - -P { - margin-top: 0.75em; - margin-right: 0em; - margin-bottom: 0.75em; - margin-left: 0em; - text-align: justify; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -.adlisting { - font-weight: bold; - margin: 0.75em 20%; -text-align: left; -text-indent: 0em; -} - -.adlistingunbold { -font-weight: normal; -margin: 0.75em 20%; -text-align: left; -text-indent: 0em; -} - -.centre { - text-align: center; -} - -.first { - text-indent: 0em; -} - - -.list { - text-indent: 0em; - padding: 0em 2em; -} - -.note { - color: #666666; -} - -.textright { -margin: 0.75em 20%; - text-align: right; -} - -.underscore { - text-decoration: underline; -} - -.ditto { - padding-right: 1.5em; - padding-left: 1.5em; -} - -H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { - text-align: center; -} - -.ad-xb { - font-weight: bolder; -} - -.bookad { - margin-left: 2em; - text-indent: -1em; - text-align: justify; -} - -.unbold { - font-weight: normal; -} - -HR { width: 33%; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - } - -hr.full { - width: 100%; -} - -DIV.advert { - border: solid #000000 2px; - padding: 1em; -margin: 1em; -} - -DIV.chapter { - margin: 1em 0em; - padding: 2em 0em; -} - -DIV.toc { - margin: 1em 0em; - padding: 2em 0em; -} - -UL { -list-style-type: none; -} - -OL.arabic { - list-style: decimal; -} - - -OL.upperroman { - list-style: upper-roman; -} - ---> -</style> -<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A.G.Payne</title> -</head> - -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. G. Payne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery - A Manual Of Cheap And Wholesome Diet - -Author: A. G. Payne - -Release Date: January 4, 2005 [EBook #14594] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY *** - - - - -Produced by Feòrag NicBhrìde and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -</pre> - - - <div class="advert"> - <h2 class="ad-xb">SUGG’S GOLD MEDAL “WESTMINSTER”<br /> - GAS KITCHENERS.</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>ENAMELLED INSIDE AND UNDER HOT-PLATE.</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <img src="images/001.jpg" alt="[Illustration]" width="221" height="400" - /> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>PERFECT FOR ROASTING, BAKING, GRILLING, - TOASTING, AND BOILING.</em></strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>WILL DO ALL THAT ANY STOVE OF THE SAME SIZE - CAN DO—<span class="underscore">ONLY MUCH BETTER</span>.</em></strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>The only Gas Kitchener which Bakes Bread perfectly.</strong> - Send for Pamphlet on SUGG’S NEW METHOD OF BAKING BREAD. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - LET ON HIRE By the Gas Light and Coke Co., the South Metropolitan Gas Co., - Brentford, Tottenham, and many other Gas Companies. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>WILLIAM SUGG & CO., Ltd., REGENCY ST., WESTMINSTER.</strong> - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>Complete in Four Vols., price 5s. each.</em></strong> - </p> - <hr /> - <h2>CASSELL’S<br /> - Book of the Household.</h2> - <p class="centre"> - A Valuable and Practical Work on Every Department of Household Management. - <em>With Numerous Illustrations</em>. - </p> - <hr /> - <p> - The <cite>Guardian</cite> says: “<strong>An excellent work, which - should be in the hands of every housekeeper,</strong> is CASSELL’S BOOK - OF THE HOUSEHOLD. Here we find the most varied information and the - soundest of advice. The household, its members and their family life, - are considered and discussed; children and their training, health and - disease, food and clothing, furnishing, furniture, and household - mechanics. The arrangement and treatment of these various subjects are - admirable, and the book is certainly a most valuable and practical - manual of household management.” - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Queen</cite> says: “<strong>A book so handy and practical - ought to be adopted by every well-ordered family</strong>. Its plan is - so comprehensive, it will include every part of the house and its - requirements, and all the members of the family and their mutual - relations, duties, and responsibilities.” - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Weekly Dispatch</cite> says: “We do not know of any more - practical or more valuable work on household management. It is worth - its weight in gold.” - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Scotsman</cite> says: “The first volume has appeared of a - book which promises to be of great and extensive utility. It is - <strong>a cyclopædia of information on all questions connected - with the management of a household,</strong> and does not enter into - comparison with books that treat merely of provisions for the table. - Various hands have evidently been employed in working up the various - sections, and every subject is dealt with in a thoroughly competent - style. The book is admirably appointed in every respect, and contains - many illustrations, all of the most useful character, and beautifully - printed. <strong>Every one who has to do in any way with the management - of a household will find this book invaluable.”</strong> - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Liverpool Mercury</cite> says: “CASSELL’S BOOK OF THE - HOUSEHOLD is another book, of a class of which many have been issued, - and good books too; but this one, by the thoroughness and - comprehensiveness of its arrangement, will go far to render the - housewife who possesses it independent of all the rest.... Many a - housewife will find the articles interesting enough to be taken up at - any leisure hour.” - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Glasgow Herald</cite> says: “The work promises to be the - most complete thing of the kind in existence, and even the first volume - by itself is a perfect household encyclopædia.” - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - SAVES TIME, TROUBLE, AND EXPENSE. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - ASK YOUR GROCER FOR - </p> - - <h2>GRIDLEY & CO’S<br /> - ISINGLASSINE.</h2> - - - <p class="centre"> - “PURE, NUTRITIOUS AND - WHOLESOME.” - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Arthur Hill Hassall</em><br /> - <em>E. Godwin Clayton</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - A SIXPENNY PACKET WILL MAKE 1 QUART OF - <em>BRILLIANT JELLY</em>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>NO BOILING OR SOAKING REQUIRED. TO BE HAD OF ALL - GROCERS</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>THREE GOLD MEDALS AWARDED.</em></strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - HIGHEST TESTIMONIALS. - </p> -</div> - - - - <div class="advert"> - <h2>The London Vegetarian Society,</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>THE MEMORIAL HALL, FARRINGDON STREET, E.C.</em> - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="list"> - President—A.F. HILLS, Esq.<br /> - Treasurer—ERNEST BELL, Esq., M.A.<br /> - Secretary—MAY YATES. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p> - THE LONDON VEGETARIAN SOCIETY is established for the purpose of - advocating the total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and - fowl) as food, and promoting instead a more extensive use of fruits, - grains, nuts, and other products of the vegetable kingdom; and also to - disseminate information as to the meaning and principles of - Vegetarianism by lectures, pamphlets, letters to the Press, &c.; and by - these means, and through the example and efforts of its Members, to - extend the adoption of a principle tending essentially to true - civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to the increase of human - happiness generally. - </p> - - <p> - Members adopt in its entirety the Vegetarian system of diet. Associates - agree to promote the aims of the Society, but do not pledge themselves - to its practice. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>SUBSCRIBERS ARE ENTITLED TO THE FOLLOWING ADVANTAGES:</strong> - </p> - - <p> - <strong>ONE SHILLING PER ANNUM.</strong>—Minimum Subscription. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>FIVE SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.</strong>—Tickets for Four - Monthly Receptions, Four Debates, and Four Conversaziones at - half-price, and be entitled to receive, free by post, copies of all new - literature published by the Society under 6d. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>TEN SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.</strong>—Tickets for Four - Monthly Receptions, Four Debates, and Four Conversaziones, and to - receive, free by post, copies of all new literature published by the - Society under 1s. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM.</strong>—Tickets for Four Monthly - Receptions, Four Debates and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free - by post, all new literature published by the Society under 2s., and - copies of the <cite>Vegetarian</cite>, <cite>The Hygienic - Review</cite>, and the <cite>Vegetarian Messenger</cite>. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <h2>POOR MAN’S FRIEND AND PILLS.</h2> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - DR. ROBERTS’ OINTMENT CALLED<br /> - <strong>POOR MAN’S FRIEND</strong><br /> - Will Cure WOUNDS and SORES of every description - </p> - - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - DR. ROBERTS’<br /> - <strong>ALTERATIVE PILLS</strong><br /> - For DISEASES of the BLOOD and SKIN. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Of all Chemists, or of the Proprietors</em>, BRIDPORT, DORSET. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <img src="images/003.jpg" alt="[llustration]" width="172" - height="103" /> - </p> - <h2> - THE “RAPID” COOKERY STEAMER. - </h2> - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - TO FIT ANY SAUCEPAN. - </p> - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - <em>From 1s. each.</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>OF ALL IRONMONGERS.</strong> - </p> - - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <em>NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION.</em> - </p> - - <h2>A Year’s Cookery.</h2> - - <p> - Giving Dishes for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Dinner for every Day in the - Year, By PHYLLIS BROWNE. Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. - </p> - - <p> - To the New Edition of this popular book (which has already attained a - sale of upwards of Twenty Thousand Copies) additional pages have been - added on Food for Invalids. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <em>Price</em> <strong>2s. 6d.</strong> - </p> - - <h2>A Handbook for the Nursing of Sick Children. <span class="unbold">By CATHERINE J. WOOD.</span></h2> - - <p> - “Miss Wood’s book is succinct, clearly written, and goes straight to the - heart of each detail in a thoroughly business-like - fashion.”—<cite>Health</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>The Largest, Cheapest, and Best Cookery Book.</em></strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - 1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, <strong>7s. 6d.</strong>; roxburgh, - <strong>10s. 6d.</strong> - </p> - - <h2>CASSELL’S Dictionary of Cookery.</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - CONTAINING ABOUT <strong>9,000</strong> RECIPES. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p> - “CASSELL’S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is one of the most thorough and - comprehensive works of the kind. To expatiate on its abundant contents - would demand pages rather than paragraphs.”—<cite>The - Times</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “One of the most handsome, practical, and comprehensive books of - cookery.”—<cite>Saturday Review</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “It seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to - be—that is, the largest and most complete collection of the kind - ever produced in this country; an encyclopædia, in fact, of the - culinary art in all its branches. It is a dictionary which should be in - every household, and studied by every woman who recognises her true - mission in the world.”—<cite>Christian World</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “CASSELL’S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is not only full of solid and - valuable information as to the best method of preparing food in an - endless variety of forms, but it will enable a housekeeper to grasp - principles on which food may be cooked to the greatest perfection. It - supplies the reason why one method is right and another wrong. An - estimate of the cost of each recipe is given, which is valuable - information. The recipes themselves are given in terms intelligible to - the meanest capacity.”—<cite>Athenæum</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “CASSELL’S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY contains about 9,000 recipes, and is - preceded by a treatise on the Principles of Culinary Art and Table - Management, which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks, as - those most interested in such instructions, but by every mistress of a - household, large or small.... The woodcuts dispersed through the pages - not only illustrate some of the various species of fish, game, fruit, - vegetables, and herbs to which the recipes refer, but serve to make the - directions for carving more intelligible, while the coloured plates - represent appetising dishes elaborately garnished, or fruit tastefully - arranged, with several less inviting pictures of ‘bad and good joints - of meat’ contrasted with each other side by - side.”—<cite>Morning Post</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “The best Cookery book extant. We know of no equal, either in the - arrangement of its contents, the number of its recipes, or the elegance - of its illustrations.”—<cite>York Herald</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “Being complete, it tells us how to dress a table for the smallest - dinner, but what I value more in it is that it reminds us of the - simplest and cheapest of dishes, and gives their cost. There are more - shilling or sixpenny preparations in this book than those of greater - cost.”—<cite>Western Morning News</cite>. - </p> - - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="chapter"> - <h1>CASSELL’S VEGETARIAN COOKERY.</h1> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <h2>CROSSE & BLACKWELL’S</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - PICKLES, SAUCES, FLAVOURING ESSENCES, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>PARISIAN ESSENCE FOR GRAVIES</em>, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Grated Parmesan Cheese in Bottles, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - PURE LUCCA OIL, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Malt Vinegar and Table Delicacies, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>ARE SOLD BY ALL GROCERS</em>. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>CROSSE & BLACKWELL,</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Purveyors to the Queen, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - SOHO SQUARE, LONDON - </p> - </div> - - <div class="chapter"> - <h1>CASSELL’S VEGETARIAN COOKERY.</h1> - - <h2>A MANUAL OF <em>CHEAP AND WHOLESOME DIET</em>.</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - BY A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - AUTHOR OF “CHOICE DISHES,” ETC. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <img src="images/002.jpg" alt="[Publisher's logo]" width="100" height="97" - /> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED: - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>LONDON, PARIS & MELBOURNE</em>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - 1891. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - For Puddings, Blanc-Mange, Custards, CHILDREN’S AND INVALIDS’ DIET, - <em>And all the Uses of Arrowroot</em>, - </p> - - <h2 class="underscore"> - BROWN & POLSON’S CORN FLOUR - </h2> - - <p class="centre"> - HAS A WORLD-WIDE REPUTATION, AND IS DISTINGUISHED FOR <em>UNIFORMLY - SUPERIOR QUALITY</em>. - </p> - <hr /> - <p> - NOTE.—Purchasers should insist on being supplied with BROWN & - POLSON’S CORN FLOUR. Inferior qualities, asserting fictitious claims, - are being offered. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>80th Thousand,</strong> <em>price</em> - <strong>1s.</strong>; <em>post free</em>, <strong>1s. 3d.</strong> - </p> - <hr /> - <h2> - <strong>Cassell’s Shilling Cookery.</strong> - </h2> - - <p> - This new and valuable Work contains 364 pages, crown 8vo, bound in - limp cloth. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p> - “This is the <strong>largest and most comprehensive work</strong> - on the subject of cookery ever yet published at the - price.”—<cite>Christian Age</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “Housekeepers <strong>will save many shillings</strong> if they - follow the practical suggestions and excellent advice - given.”—<cite>Bazaar</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “CASSELL’S SHILLING COOKERY is certainly the cheapest - manual for the kitchen we have ever received. There are 360 pages - of recipes, the book is serviceably bound, and should prove a - treasure to any young wife.”—<cite>Weekly Times and - Echo</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - - - - <div class="chapter"> - <h2>PREFACE.</h2> - - <hr /> - - <p class="first"> - The present work, though written upon strictly vegetarian - principles, is by no means addressed to vegetarians only. On - the contrary, we hope that the following pages of recipes will - be read by that enormous class throughout the country who - during the last few years have been gradually changing their - mode of living by eating far <em>less</em> meat, and taking vegetables - and farinaceous food as a substitute. - </p> - - <p> - Where there are thousands who are vegetarians from - choice, there are tens of thousands who are virtually vegetarians - from necessity. Again, there is another large class - who from time to time adopt a vegetarian course of diet on - the ground of health, and as a means of escaping from the - pains attendant on gout, liver complaint, or dyspepsia. - </p> - - <p> - The class we most wish to reach, however, is that one, - increasing we fear, whose whole life is one continual struggle - not merely to live, but to live decently. - </p> - - <p> - It may seem a strong statement, but we believe it to be a - true one, that only those who have tried a strictly vegetarian - course of diet know what real <em>economy</em> means. Should the - present work be the means of enabling even one family to - become not only better in health but richer in pocket, it will - not have been written in vain. - </p> - - <p> - A.G. PAYNE. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - SOLIDIFIED JELLY. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - - <img src="images/004.jpg" alt="[Illustration]" width="100" height="59" - /></p> - - <p> - By Royal Letters Patent in Great Britain and Ireland, 1888 Patented - in the Dominion of Canada, 1889. Patented in France, 1889. N. S. - Wales, 1889. Victoria, 1889. Other Foreign Rights reserved. - </p> - - <h2>CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES,</h2> - - <p> - The Inventor and Patentee, in introducing this high-class article - of food, begs to warn the Public that the great success and - enormous demand the CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES have obtained in Great - Britain has brought many imitators on the Market. A few Stores and - Grocers are offering same to the Public, no doubt for the purpose - of wishing to appear cheaper, or for making extra profit. The - favour for the CHELSEA TABLE JELLY has been obtained solely upon - the merits of the article, and it is held to be the greatest - invention of the kind, bringing within the reach of all classes - this hitherto almost unobtainable luxury. This has been fully - endorsed by the unsolicited testimony of high-class British - journals. - </p> - - <p> - The article is put up in cardboard boxes, in quantities to make - 1/2-pints, pints, and quarts of jelly, and the following are some - of the flavours: Lemon, Orange, Vanilla, Calves’ Feet, - Noyeau, Raspberry, Punch, and Madeira. It should not be confounded - with the ordinary fruit Jelly, which is a totally different - article, <em>this being a pure Calves’ Feet jelly</em>, - superseding the use of gelatine in packets for jelly - purposes—this latter, as will easily be seen, being now a - thing of the past. On each box is printed a public analyst’s - report, also full directions for use. - </p> - - <p> - <em>The following advantages are claimed over all other Calves Feet - jellies</em>:— - </p> - - <ol class="arabic"> - - <li>It is less than one-third of the price of bottled jellies, and - superior in quality.</li> - - <li>It never gets mildewed or corky.</li> - - <li>It never fails to set or jellify.</li> - - <li>Its extreme simpleness of preparation, only requiring to be - melted by the addition of hot water, no flavouring or other matter - being required.</li> - - <li>It will keep good for any time until made up, when it will keep - good longer than other jellies.</li> - - <li>The largest quantity can be made in a few minutes.</li> - - </ol> - - <p> - For persons suffering from dyspepsia or any other ailment, it will also be - found to be a great boon, as it can be cut and eaten in the solidified - state with great satisfaction. On sea voyages and excursions of any kind it - will be found invaluable. - </p> - - <p> - <em>BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS, and ask only for the</em> - WALTER ROBERTSON CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>Articles of merit are often pirated by unprincipled trader.</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - To be had of all GROCERS, STORES, and CONFECTIONERS. - </p> - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - <em>CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS</em>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Sample of CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. Received 1888. - </p> - - <p> - <em>I certify that the following are the results of the analysis of the - above samples</em>: - </p> - - <p> - I have examined a sample of Chelsea Table jelly, and find it to be - a mixture of Calves’ Feet jelly and sugar; it is undoubtedly - nutritious and wholesome. - </p> - - <p> - It is superior to other samples that I have analysed, as it in much - firmer and keeps well. - </p> - - <p> - It is clear and bright, and has evidently been carefully manufactured - from pure materials. - </p> - - <p> - It has a pleasant flavour, and is of excellent quality. - </p> - - <p> - <em>(Signed)</em> R. H. HARLAND, F.I,C., F.C.S. - </p> - - <p> - Laboratory, Plough Court, 37, Lombard Street. <em>Public Analyst</em>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Copy of Testimonial received August 26th, 1891 (<em>unsolicited</em>). - </p> - - <p> - 59, Windsor Road, Southport. <em>August 25th</em>, 1891. - </p> - - <p> - GENTLEMEN,—I may inform you that I have tried other makers of - jellies, but have found none to equal yours in excellence of - quality. I have mentioned this fact frequently to Mr. Seymour Mead - and to my friends. I am also deeply indebted to you from the fact - that a little niece of mine was fed almost exclusively on your - Calves’ Feet Jelly for a period of three months, and who, - when she refused to take other things, always took most willingly - to your jellies. - </p> - - <p> - Yours respectfully, - </p> - - <p> - W, ROBERTSON & Co. M. T. HANSON. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>This and others may be inspected at the Works, Chelsea, London.</em> - </p> - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - <strong>Inventors and Sole Manufacturers (Wholesale only):</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - WALTER ROBERTSON & CO., CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W., ENGLAND - </p> - </div> - -<div class="toc"> - <h2>CONTENTS.</h2> - - <hr /> - -<ol class="upperroman"> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter1">SOUPS</a> 17</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter2">SAUCES</a> 44</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter3">RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL</a> 60</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter4">EGGS AND OMELETS</a> 78</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter5">SALADS AND SANDWICHES</a> 96</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter6">SAVOURY DISHES</a> 108</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter7">VEGETABLES, SUBSTANTIAL</a> 122</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter8">VEGETABLES, FRESH</a> 137</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter9">PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS</a> 152</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter10">JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS</a> 158</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter11">CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESECAKES</a> 165</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter12">STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES</a> 171</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter13">CAKES AND BREAD</a> 177</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter14">PIES AND PUDDINGS</a> 182</li> - - </ol> -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <h2>E.F. LANGDALE’S<br />PRIZE MEDAL<br />Flavouring Essences and Domestic Specialities</h2> - - - - <p class="centre"> - FOR PIES, PUDDINGS, SOUPS, GRAVIES, ICES, &c. - </p> - - - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Prepared direct from Herbs, Fruits, and Spices, gathered in their - bloom and freshness.</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>Specially awarded Prize Medals, Great International Exhibition, - London, 1851 and 1862.</strong></p> - - <p class="centre"> - (Recommended for all the Recipes in this work.) - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em><strong>“E.F. LANGDALE’S”</strong> should always - be insisted upon. They are Purest, Best, and Cheapest.</em> - </p> - - <p class="adlisting"> - Essence Lemon.<br /> - Strong Essence Vanilla.<br /> - Purified Essence Almonds<br /> - Essence Noyau.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Raspberries.<br /> - Essence Ginger.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Orange.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Ratafia.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Celery.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Strawberries. - </p> - - <hr /> - - - - <p class="centre"> - E.F. LANGDALE’S - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Fruit Pudding, Blancmange, and Custard Powders - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - MAKE DELICIOUS PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, & BLANCMANGE. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>In 2d. and 6d. Packets. Sold everywhere.</em> - </p> - - <p class="adlisting"> - ALMOND.<br /> - LEMON.<br /> - VANILLA.<br /> - RASPBERRY.<br /> - PINE APPLE.<br /> - RATAFIA.<br /> - STRAWBERRY.<br /> - NECTARINE.<br /> - CHOCOLATE, &c. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - E.F. LANGDALE’S<br /> - Prepared Dried English Herbs, &c. - </p> - - <p class="adlisting"> - Garden Mint.<br /> - Savoury.<br /> - Parsley.<br /> - Sage.<br /> - Lemon Thyme.<br /> - Basil.<br /> - Mixed Sweet Herbs.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Soup<span class="ditto">"</span><br /> - Tarragon. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em><strong>Celery Seeds. Celery Salt. Herbaceous Mixture.</strong></em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>E.F. LANGDALE’S <strong>REFINED JAMAICA LIME JUICE AND PURE - LEMON JUICE.</strong></em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>Distilled Tarragon and Chill Vinegar for Salads and - Sauces.</strong> - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - - <em>Sole Agent for</em></p> - - <p class="centre"> - - <strong>J. Delcroix & Cie. Concentrated Parisian Essence,</strong></p> - - <p class="centre"> - FOR BROWNING GRAVIES, &c. (<em>See pages 20, 22.</em>) - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Which should always be bought with their Name. As used by all <em>Chefs</em>. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>J. DELCROIX & CIE. Pure Green Vegetable Coloured Spinach - Extract.</strong> <em>Perfectly Harmless</em>. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>J. DELCROIX & CIE. Brilliant Extract Cochineal for Tinting - Ices, Pies, &c.</strong> - </p> - - <hr /> - - - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>E. F. LANGDALE’S “Essence - Distillery,”</em></strong> - </p> - -<p class="centre"> -<strong>72 & 73, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C. Estab. 1770.</strong> -</p> - -<p class="centre"> -Pamphlets, Recipes, &c., post free. All the above can be obtained of any leading Grocer. -We will send name of nearest Agent on receipt of post card. -</p> - -</div> - - - -<div class="chapter"> - <h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2> - - <hr /> - - <p class="first"> - We wish it to be distinctly understood at starting, that the - present work is purely a cookery-book, written on the principles - generally adopted by vegetarians; and as, until quite - recently, there seemed to be in the minds of many some doubt - as to the definition of vegetarianism, we will quote the - following explanation from the head of the report of the - London Vegetarian Society:—“The aims of the London Vegetarian - Society are to advocate the total disuse of the flesh of - animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, and to promote a more - extensive use of pulse, grains, fruits, nuts, and other products - of the vegetable kingdom, thus propagating a principle tending - essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to - the increase of happiness generally.” - </p> - - <p> - We have no intention of writing a treatise on vegetarianism, - but we consider a few words of explanation necessary. Years - back many persons were under the impression that by vegetarianism - was meant simply an abstention from flesh-meat, - but that fish was allowed. Such, however, is not the case, - according to the rules of most of the Vegetarian Societies of the - day. On the other hand, strictly speaking, real vegetarians - would not be allowed the use of eggs and milk; but it appears - that many use these, though there are a considerable number of - persons who abstain. There is no doubt that the vegetable - kingdom, without either milk or eggs, contains every requisite - for the support of the human body. In speaking on this - subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes:—“The vegetable - kingdom comprehends the cereals, legumes, roots, starches, - sugar, herbs, and fruits. Persons who style themselves vegetarians - often consume milk, eggs, butter, and lard, which are - choice foods from the animal kingdom. There are other - persons, of course, who are strictly vegetarian eaters, and - such alone have any right to the title of vegetarians.” - </p> - - <p> - In the following pages will be found ample recipes for the - benefit of parties who take either view. In questions of - this kind there will always be found conflicting views. We have - no wish or desire to give opinions, but consider it will be - more advisable, and probably render the book far more useful, - if we confine ourselves as much as possible to facts. - </p> - - <p> - The origin of vegetarianism is as old as the history of the - world itself, and probably from time immemorial there have - been sects which have practised vegetarianism, either as a - religious duty, or under the belief that they would render the - body more capable of performing religious duties. In the - year 1098, or two years prior to the date of Henry I., there - was a strictly vegetarian society formed in connection with - the Christian Church, which lived entirely on herbs and roots, - and the society has lasted to the present day. Again, there - have been many sects who, not so strict, have allowed themselves - the use of fish. - </p> - - <p> - Again, there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of - diet on the ground of health. Many maintain that diseases - like gout and dyspepsia would disappear were vegetarian diet - strictly adhered to. On the other hand, we have physicians - who maintain that the great cause of indigestion is not eating - enough. An American physician, some years ago, alleged he - had discovered the cause, his argument being that the more - work the stomach had to do the stronger it would become, - on the same principle that the arm of a blacksmith is more - powerful in consequence of hard work. Of one thing we are - certain, and that is, there will always be rival physicians and - rival sects; but the present work will simply be a guide to <em>those - who require, from whatever cause, a light form of diet</em>. Perhaps - the greatest benefit vegetarians can do their cause—and - there are many who think very strongly on the subject—is to - endeavour to take a dispassionate view. Rome was not built - in a day; and if we look back at the past history of this - country, during the last half-century, in regard to food, - we shall see that there have been many natural changes - at work. Waves of thought take place backwards and - forwards, but still the tide may flow. Some fifty years ago - there was, undoubtedly, a strong impression (with a large - number of right-minded people) that plenty of meat, beer, - and wine were good for all, even for young children. The - medical profession are very apt to run in flocks, and follow - some well-known leader. At the period to which we refer, - numbers of anxious mothers would have regarded the advice - to bring up their children as vegetarians and teetotallers as - positive cruelty. This old-fashioned idea has passed away. - </p> - - <p> - One great motive for adopting a course of vegetarian diet - is economy; and here we feel that we stand on firm ground, - without danger of offending sincere opinions, which are often - wrongly called prejudices. To a great extent, the majority of - the human race are virtually vegetarians from necessity. Nor - do we find feebleness either of mind or body necessarily - ensues. We believe there are tens of thousands of families - who would give vegetarianism a trial were it not for fear. - Persons are too apt to think that bodily strength depends - upon the nature of the food we eat. In India we have a - feeble race, living chiefly on rice. On the other hand, in - China, for bodily strength, few can compare with the Coolies. - For many years in Scotland the majority lived on oatmeal, - while in Ireland they lived on potatoes. We do not wish - to argue anything from these points, but to bring them - forward for consideration. Probably, strength of body and - mind, as a general rule, depends upon breed, and this argument - tells two ways—it does not follow that vegetarians - will be necessarily strong, and will cease to be cruel; nor - does it follow that those who have been accustomed all - their lives to eat meat will cease to be strong should they - become vegetarians. As we have said, the great motive that - induces many to give vegetarianism a trial is economy; and if - persons would once get rid of the idea that they risk their health - by making a trial, much would be done to advance the cause. - </p> - - <p> - Another great reason for persons hesitating to make a trial - is the revolution it would create in their households. Here - again we are beset by difficulties, and these difficulties can - only disappear gradually, after long years of patience. We - believe the progress towards vegetarianism must of necessity be - a very slow one. No large West End tradesman could possibly - insist upon his whole establishment becoming vegetarians - because he becomes one himself. We believe and hope that - the present work will benefit those who are undergoing a slow - but gradual change in their mode of living. This is easiest in - small households, where no servants are kept at all, where - the mistress is both cook and mother. It is in such households - that the change is possible, and very often most desirable. - In many cases trial will be made gradually. The - great difficulty to contend with is prejudice, or, rather, we may - say, habit. There are many housekeepers who feel that their - bill of fare would instantly become extremely limited were - they to adopt vegetarian ideas. There are few better dinners—especially - for children—than a good basin of soup, with - plenty of bread; yet, as a rule, there are few housekeepers who - would know how to make vegetarian soup at all. In our - present work we have given a list of sixty-four soups. At - any rate, here is no lack of variety, as small housekeepers in - this country are not famed for their knowledge of soup - making, even with gravy-beef at their disposal. - </p> - - <p> - On looking down this list it will be observed that in many cases - cream—or, at any rate, milk—is recommended. We can well - imagine the housekeeper exclaiming, “I don’t call this - economy.” This is one point about which we consider a few words - of explanation necessary. We will suppose a family of eight, who have - been accustomed to live in the ordinary way, are going to have a - vegetarian dinner by way of trial. Some soup has to be made, and one or - two vegetables from the garden or the greengrocer’s, as the case - may be, are going to be cooked on a new method, and the housekeeper is - horrified at the amount of butter she finds recommended for the sauce. - People must, however, bear in mind that changes are gradual, and that - often, at first starting, a degree of richness, or what they would - consider extravagance, is advisable if they wish to <em>reconcile - others</em> to the change. In our dinner for eight we would first ask - them how much meat would they have allowed a head? At the very lowest - computation, it could not have been decently done under a quarter of a - pound each, even if the dish of meat took the economical form of an - Irish stew; and had a joint, such as a leg of mutton, been placed upon - the table, it would probably have been considerably more than double. - Supposing, however, instead of the meat, we have three - vegetables—say haricot beans, potatoes, and a cabbage. With the - assistance of some really good <a href="#buttersauce046">butter - sauce</a>, these vegetables, eaten with bread, make an agreeable meal, - which, especially in hot weather, would probably be a pleasant change. - Supposing, for the sake of argument, you use half a pound of butter in - making the <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. This sounds, to - ordinary cooks, very extravagant, even supposing butter to be only one - shilling per pound. Suppose, however, this half a pound of butter is - used as a means of going without a leg of mutton? That is the chief - point to be borne in mind in a variety of recipes to follow. The cream, - butter, and eggs are often recommended in what will appear as wholesale - quantities, but, as a set-off against this, you have no butcher’s - bill at all. We do not maintain that this apparently unlimited use of - butter, eggs, and occasionally cream, is necessary; but we believe that - there are many families who will be only able to make the change by - substituting “<em>nice</em>” dishes, at any rate at first - starting, to make up for the loss of the meat. It is only by - substituting a pleasant kind of food, that many will be induced even to - attempt to change. Gradually the living will become cheaper and - cheaper; but it is unwise to attempt, in a family, to do too much at - once. - </p> - - <p> - There are many soups we have given in which cream is recommended; for - instance, <a href="#artichokesoup024">artichoke soup</a>, <a - href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">bean soup</a>, <a - href="#cauliflowersoup028">cauliflower soup</a>, and <a href="#celerysoup029">celery soup</a>. - After partaking of a well-made - basin of one of these soups, followed by one or two vegetables and a - fruit pie or stewed fruit, there are many persons who would voluntarily - remark, “I don’t seem to care for any meat.” On the - other hand, were the vegetables served in the old-fashioned style, but - without any meat, there are many who would feel that they were - undergoing a species of privation, even if they did not say so—we - refer to a dish of plain-boiled potatoes and dry bread, or even the - ordinary cabbage served in the usual way. Supposing, however, a nice - little new cabbage is sent to table, with plenty of really good <a - href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> or <a - href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, over which has been sprinkled - a little bright green parsley, whilst some crisp fried bread surrounds - the dish—the cabbage is converted into a meal; and if we take - into account the absence of the meat, we still save enormously. The - advice we would give, especially to young housekeepers, is, - “Persuasion is better than force.” If you wish to teach a - child to swim, it is far easier to entice him into shallow water on a - hot summer’s day than to throw him in against his will in winter - time. - </p> - - <p> - Another point which we consider of great importance is - appearances. As far as possible, we should endeavour to make - the dishes look pretty. We are appealing to a very large - class throughout the country who at all cost wish to keep up - appearances. It is an important class, and one on which the - slow but gradual march of civilisation depends. We fear that - any attempt to improve the extreme poor, who live surrounded - by dirt and misery, would be hopeless, unless they still have - some lingering feeling of this self-respect. For the poor - woman who snatches a meal off bread-and-dripping, which - she eats without a table-cloth, and then repairs to the gin-shop - to wash it down, nothing can be done. This class will - gradually die out as civilisation advances. This is seen, even - in the present day, in America. - </p> - - <p> - Fortunately, there is plenty of scope in vegetarian cooking - not merely for refinement, but even elegance. Do not - despise the sprinkle of chopped parsley and red specks of - bread-crumbs coloured with cochineal, so often referred to - throughout the following pages. Remember that the cost of - these little accessories to comfort is virtually <em>nil</em>. We must - remember also that one sense works upon another. We can - please the palate through the eye. There is some undoubted - connection between these senses. If you doubt it, suck a - lemon in front of a German band and watch the result. The - sight of meat causes the saliva to run from the mouths of the - carnivorous animals at the Zoo. This is often noticeable in - the case of a dog watching people eat, and it is an old saying, - “It makes one’s mouth water to look at it.” In the case of - endeavouring to induce a change of living in grown-up persons, - such as husband or children, there is perhaps no method we - can pursue so efficacious as that of making dishes look pretty. - A dish of bright red tomatoes, reposing on the white bosom of a - bed of macaroni, relieved here and there by a few specks of green—what - a difference to a similar dish all mashed up together, - and in which the macaroni showed signs of dirty smears! - </p> - - <p> - We have endeavoured throughout this book to give chiefly directions - about those dishes which will replace meat. For instance, the vast - majority of pies and puddings will remain the same, and need no - detailed treatment here. Butter supplies the place of suet or lard, and - any ordinary, cookery-book will be found sufficient for the purpose; - but it is in dealing with <a href="#soups017">soups</a>, <a - href="#sauces044">sauces</a>, <a href="#rice060">rice</a>, <a - href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a>, and vegetables, sent to table under - new conditions, that we hope this book will be found most useful. - </p> - - <p> - As a rule, English women cooks, especially when their - title to the name depends upon their being the mistress of - the house, will often find that soups and sauces are a weak - point. Do not despise, in cooking, little things. Those who - really understand such matters will know how vast is the - difference in flavour occasioned by the addition of that pinch of - thyme or teaspoonful of savoury herbs, and yet there are tens - of thousands of houses, where meat is eaten every day, who - never had a bottle of thyme at their disposal in their lives. - As we have said, if we are going to make a great saving on - meat, we can well afford a few trifles, so long as they are - trifles. A sixpenny bottle of thyme will last for months; and - if we give up our gravy beef, or piece of pickled pork, or two-pennyworth - of bones, as the case may be, surely we can afford - a little indulgence of this kind. - </p> - - <p> - A few words on the subject of <a href="#fritters116">fritters</a>. When - will English housekeepers grasp the idea of frying? They cannot get - beyond a dab of grease or butter in a frying-pan. The bath of boiling - oil seems to be beyond them, or at any rate a degree of civilisation - that has not yet passed beyond the limit of the fried-fish shop. The - oil will do over and over again, and in the end is undoubtedly cheaper - than the dab of grease or butter thrown away. There are hundreds of men - who, in hot weather, would positively prefer a well-cooked vegetable - fritter to meat, but yet they rarely get it at home. Fruit fritters are - also very economical—<a href="#orangefritters120">orange - fritters</a>, <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>, &c., - because the batter helps to make the dish <em>a meal</em>. - </p> - - <p> - Those who have practised vegetarianism for many years - will probably be of opinion that we have not called sufficient - attention to the subject of fruit and nuts. This is not because - we do not believe in their usefulness, but because we think - that those who are <em>changing</em> their mode of living will be far - better enabled to do so without discomfort by making their - chief alterations in diet in the directions we have pointed out. - There is moreover little or no <em>cookery</em> involved in these articles. - </p> - - <p> - Of the wholesomeness of fresh fruit all are agreed; and as - people become more advanced vegetarians, the desire for fruit and - nuts will follow in due course. In future years, as the demand - increases, the supply will increase; but this is a question of time. - Lookers-on often see more of the game than the players. - It is not because the sudden change might not be beneficial, - but because sudden changes are only likely to be effected in - rare instances, that we have taken the view we have. Prejudice - is strong, and it would be very difficult to persuade - persons, unless they had been gradually brought to the change, - to regard nuts in the light of food. To suggest a meal off - Brazil nuts would to many have a tendency to put vegetarianism - in a ridiculous light, and nothing kills so readily as - ridicule. - </p> - - <p> - In conclusion, it will be observed that from time to time - we have used the expression, “if wine be allowed.” There is - no necessary connection between vegetarianism and teetotalism, - but it would be affectation to deny the fact that they are - generally connected. Of the numerous arguments brought - forward by the advocates of vegetarianism, one is that, in the - opinion of many who speak with authority, a vegetarian diet - is best adapted to those—of whom, unfortunately, there are - many—who, from time to time, have a craving for more stimulant - than is beneficial to their health. Many medical men - are of the opinion that large meat-eaters require alcoholic - stimulant, and that they can give up the latter more easily by - abstaining from the former. This is a question for medical - men to decide, as it does not properly come into the province - of the cook. - </p> - - <p> - We have repeatedly mentioned the addition of wine and - liqueurs; but when these are used for flavouring purposes it is - not to be regarded in the same light as if taken alone. There is - a common sense in these matters which should never be overlooked. - The teetotaler who attended the Lord Mayor’s dinner, - and refused his glass of punch with his turtle-soup, would be - consistent; but to refuse the turtle-soup itself on the ground - that a little wine, probably Madeira, might have been added, - would proclaim him to be a faddist. It is to be regretted that - in the present day so many good causes have been injured by - this ostentation of carrying ideas to an extreme. Practically, - where wine is used in cookery, it is added solely for the - peculiar flavour, and <em>the alcohol itself is evaporated</em>. To be - consistent, the vast majority of teetotal drinks, and possibly - even stewed fruit itself, would have to be refused on the same - ground, viz., an almost infinitely small trace of alcohol. We - think it best to explain the reason we have introduced the - expression, “if wine be allowed.” In each case it is used - for flavouring, and flavouring purposes only. We know - that with some persons a very small amount of stimulant - creates a desire for more, and when this is the case the - small quantity should be avoided; but in the case of the - quantity being so infinitely small that it ceases to have this - effect, even if not boiled away as it really is, no harm can - possibly arise. Where wine is added to soups and sauces and - exposed to heat, this would be the case. On the other hand, - in the case of tipsy-cake, and wine added to <em>compote</em> of fruit, - this would probably not be the case. A great distinction - should be drawn between such cases. It will be found, however, - that in every case we have mentioned the addition is - altogether optional, or a substitute like lemon-juice can be - used in its place. - </p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h1>VEGETARIAN COOKERY</h1> - - <hr /> - - <h2 id="chapter1">CHAPTER 1.</h2> - - <h3 id="soups017">SOUPS.</h3> - - <h4 id="soupgeneral017">GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.</h4> - - <p class="first"> - There are very few persons, unless they have made vegetarian - cookery a study, who are aware what a great variety - of soups can be made without the use of meat or fish. As a - rule, ordinary cookery-books have the one exception of what - is called <em>soup maigre</em>. In England it seems to be the impression - that the goodness of the soup depends upon the - amount of nourishment that can be compressed into a small - space. It is, however, a great mistake to think that because - we take a large amount of nourishment we are necessarily - nourished. There is a limit, though what that limit is no - one can say, beyond which soup becomes absolutely injurious. - A quarter of a pound of Liebig’s Extract of Meat dissolved - in half a pint of water is obviously an over-dose of what is - considered nourishment. In France, as a rule, soup is prepared - on an altogether different idea. It is a light, thin - broth, taken at the commencement of the meal to strengthen - the stomach, in order to render it capable of receiving more - substantial food to follow. Vegetarian soups are, of course, - to be considered from this latter point of view. - </p> -<p> -We think these few preliminary observations necessary -as we have to overcome a very strong English prejudice, -which is too apt to despise everything of which the remark -can be made—“Ah! but there is very little nourishment -in it.” Vegetarian soups, as a rule, and especially the thin -ones, must be regarded as a light and pleasant flavouring which, -with a small piece of white bread enables the most obstinately -delicate stomach to commence a repast that experience has -found best adapted to its requirements. -</p> - -<p> -The basis of all soup is <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, and in making stock -we, of course, have to depend upon vegetables, fruit, or some kind of -farinaceous food. To a certain extent the water in which any kind of -vegetable has been boiled may be regarded as stock, especially water that -has boiled roots, such as potatoes; or grains, such as rice. It will not, -however, be necessary to enter into any general description as to the best -method of obtaining nutriment in a liquid form from vegetables and grain, -as directions will be given in each recipe, but a few words are necessary -on the general subject of flavouring stock. In making ordinary soup we are -very much dependent for flavour, if the soup be good, on the meat, the -vegetables acting only as accessories. In making stock for vegetarian soups -we are chiefly dependent for flavour on the vegetables themselves, and -consequently great care must be taken that these flavourings are properly -<em>blended</em>. The great difficulty in giving directions in -cookery-books, and in understanding them when given, is the insuperable one -of avoiding vague expressions. For instance, suppose we read, “Take -two onions, one carrot, one turnip, and one head of -celery,”—what does this mean? It will be found practically that -these directions vary considerably according to the neighbourhood or part -of the country in which we live. For instance, so much depends upon where -we take our head of celery from. Suppose we bought our head of celery in -Bond Street or the Central Arcade in Covent Garden Market on the one hand, -or off a barrow in the Mile End Road on the other. Again, onions vary so -much in size that we cannot draw any hard-and-fast line between a little -pickling onion no bigger than a marble and a Spanish onion as big as a -baby’s head. It would be possible to be very precise and say, -“Take so many ounces of celery, or so many pounds of carrot,” -but practically we cannot turn the kitchen into a chemist’s shop. -Cooks, whether told to use celery in heads or ounces, would act on -guess-work just the same. What are absolutely essential are two -things—common sense and experience. -</p> - -<p> -Again, practically, we must avoid giving too many ingredients. -Novices in the art of cooking are, of course, unable to -distinguish between those vegetables that are absolutely -essential and those added to give a slight extra flavour, but -which make very little difference to the soup whether they are -added or not. We are often directed to add a few leaves of -tarragon, or chervil, or a handful of sorrel. Of course, in a -large kitchen, presided over by a Francatelli, these are easily -obtainable; but in ordinary private houses, and in most parts of -the country, they are not only unobtainable but have never -even been heard of at the greengrocer’s shop. -</p> - -<p> -In making soups, as a rule, the four vegetables essential are, -onion, celery, carrot and turnip; and we place them in their -order of merit. In making vegetarian soup it is very important -that we should learn how to blend these without making any -one flavour too predominant. This can only be learnt by experience. -If we have too much onion the soup tastes rank; too -much celery will make it bitter; too much carrot often renders -the soup sweet; and the turnip overpowers every other flavour. -Again, these vegetables vary so much in strength that were -we to peel and weigh them the result would not be uniform, in -addition to the fact that not one cook in a thousand would -take the trouble to do it. Perhaps the most dangerous vegetable -with which we have to deal is turnip. These vary so very -much in strength that sometimes even one slice of turnip will -be found too strong. In flavouring soups with these vegetables, -the first care should be to see that they are thoroughly cleansed. -In using celery, too much of the green part should be avoided -if you wish to make first-rate soup. In using the onions, if -they are old and strong, the core can be removed. In using -carrot, if you are going to have any soup where vegetables will -be cut up and served in the soup, you should always peel off -the outside red part of the carrot and reserve it for this purpose, -and only use the inside or yellow part for flavouring purposes -if is going to be thrown away or to lose its identity by -being rubbed through a wire sieve with other vegetables. With -regard to turnip, we can only add one word of caution—not too -much. We may here mention, before leaving the subject of -ingredients, that leeks and garlic are a substitute for onion, -and can also be used in conjunction with it. -</p> - -<p> -As a rule, in vegetarian cookery clear soups are rare, and, -of course, from an economical point of view, they are not to -be compared with thick soups. Some persons, in making stock, -recommend what is termed bran tea. Half a pint of bran is -boiled in about three pints of water, and a certain amount of -nutriment can be extracted from the bran, which also imparts -colour. -</p> - -<p> -For the purpose of colouring clear soups, however, there is -nothing in the world to compare with what French cooks call -<em>caramel</em>. Caramel is really burnt sugar. There is a -considerable art in preparing it, as it is necessary that it should -impart colour, and colour <em>only</em>. When prepared in the rough-and-ready -manner of burning sugar in a spoon, as is too often -practised in English kitchens, this desideratum is never attained, -as you are bound to impart sweetness in addition to a burnt -flavour. The simplest and by far the most economical method -of using caramel is to buy it ready-made. It is sold by -all grocers under the name of Parisian Essence. A small -bottle, costing about eightpence, will last a year, and saves an -infinite loss of time, trouble, and temper. -</p> - -<p> -By far the most economical soups are the thick, where all -the ingredients can be rubbed through a wire sieve. Thick -soups can be divided into two classes—ordinary brown soup, -and white soup. The ordinary brown is the most economical, -as in white soups milk is essential, and if the soup is wished -to be very good it is necessary to add a little cream. -</p> - -<p> -Soups owe their thickness to two processes. We can thicken the soup by -adding flour of various kinds, such as ordinary flour, corn-flour, &c., -and soup can also be thickened by having some of the ingredients of which -it is composed rubbed through a sieve. This class of soups may be called -Purées. For instance, <a href="#artichokesoup024">Palestine soup</a> -is really a purée of Jerusalem artichokes; ordinary <a -href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a> is a purée of split peas. -In making our ordinary vegetarian soups of all kinds, as a rule, all the -ingredients should be rubbed through a sieve. The economy of this is -obvious on the face of it. In the case of thickening soup by means of some -kinds of flour, for richness and flavour there is nothing to equal ordinary -flour that has been cooked. This is what Frenchmen call roux. -</p> - -<p> -As <a href="#roux022">white and brown roux</a> are the very backbone of -vegetarian cookery a few words of explanation may not be out of place. On -referring to the recipe for making white and brown roux, it will be seen -that it is simply flour cooked by means of frying it in butter, In white -roux each grain of flour is cooked till it is done. In brown roux each -grain of flour is cooked till it is done brown. We cannot exaggerate the -importance of getting cooks to see the enormous difference between -thickening soups or gravy with white or brown roux and simply thickening -them with plain butter and flour. The taste of the soup in the two cases is -altogether different. The difference is this. Suppose you have just been -making some pastry—some good, rich, puff paste—you have got two -pies, and, as you probably know, this pastry is simply butter and flour. -Place one pie in the oven and bake it till it is a nice rich brown. Now -taste the pie-crust. It is probably delicious. Now taste the piece of the -pie that has not been baked at all. It is nauseous. The difference -is—one is butter and flour that has been cooked, the other is butter -and flour that has not been cooked. -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p> -One word of warning in conclusion. Cooks should always -remember the good old saying—that it is quite possible to have -too much of a good thing. They should be particularly warned -to bear this in mind in adding herbs, such as ordinary mixed -flavouring herbs, or, as they are sometimes called, savoury -herbs, and thyme. This is also very important if wine is -added to soup, though, as a rule, vegetarians rarely use wine -in cooking; but the same principle applies to the substitute for -wine— viz., lemon juice. It is equally important to bear this -in mind in using white and brown roux. If we make the soup -too thick we spoil it, and it is necessary to add water to bring -it to its proper consistency, which, of course, diminishes the -flavour. The proper consistency of any soup thickened with -roux should be that of ordinary cream. Beyond this point the -cooked flour will overpower almost every other flavour, and -the great beauty of vegetarian cookery is its simplicity, it -appeals to a taste that is refined and natural, and not to one -that has been depraved. -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p id="stock021"> -<strong>Stock.</strong>—Strictly speaking, in vegetarian cookery, -stock is the goodness and flavouring that can be extracted from vegetables, -the chief ones being onion, celery, carrot, and turnip. In order to make -stock, take these vegetables, cut them up into small pieces, after having -thoroughly cleansed them, place them in a saucepan with sufficient water to -cover them, and let them boil gently for several hours. The liquor, when -strained off, may be called stock. It can be flavoured with a small -quantity of savoury herbs, pepper, and salt, as well as a little mushroom -ketchup. It can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence, or burnt -sugar. Its consistency can be improved by the addition of a small quantity -of corn-flour. Sufficient corn-flour must be added not to make it thick but -like very thin gum. In a broader sense, the water in which rice, lentils, -beans and potatoes have been boiled may be called stock. Again, the water -in which macaroni, vermicelli, sparghetti, and all kinds of Italian paste -has been boiled, may be called stock. The use of liquors of this kind must -be left to the common sense of the cook, as, of course, it would only be -obtainable when these materials are required for use. -</p> - -<p id="roux022"> -<strong>Brown and White Thickening, or Roux.</strong>—It is of great -importance for vegetarians always to have on hand a fairly -good <a href="#stock021">stock</a> of white and brown roux, as it is a great saving -both of time and money. As roux will keep good for weeks, -and even months, there is no fear of waste in making a -quantity at a time. Take a pound of flour, with a spoonful or -two over; see that it is thoroughly dry, and then sift it. Next -take a pound of butter and squeeze it in a cloth so as as much -as possible to extract all the moisture from it. Next take a -stew-pan—an enamelled one is best—and melt the butter till -it runs to oil. It will now be found that, although the bulk -of the butter looks like oil, a certain amount of froth will rise -to the top. This must be carefully skimmed off. Continue -to expose the butter to a gentle heat till the scum ceases to -rise. Now pour off the oiled butter very gently into a basin till -you come to some dregs. These should be thrown away, or, -at any rate, not used in making the roux. Now mix the -pound of dried and sifted flour with the oiled butter, which is -what the French cooks call clarified butter. Place it back in -the stew-pan, put the stew-pan over a tolerably good fire, but -not too fierce, as there is a danger of its burning. With a -wooden spoon keep stirring this mixture, and keep scraping -the bottom of the stew-pan, first in one place and then in -another, being specially careful of the edges, to prevent its -burning. Gradually the mixture will begin to turn colour. As -soon as this turn of colour is perceptible take out half and put it -in a basin. This is the white roux, viz., flour cooked in butter -but not discoloured beyond a very trifling amount. Keep the -stew-pan on the fire, and go on stirring the remainder, which -will get gradually darker and darker in colour. As soon as -the colour is that of light chocolate remove the stew-pan from -the fire altogether, but still continue scraping and stirring -for a few minutes longer, as the enamel retains the heat to -such an extent that it will sometimes burn after it has been -removed from the fire. It is important not to have the -mixture too dark, and it will be found by experience that it -gets darker after the stew-pan has been removed from the fire. -When we say light chocolate we refer to the colour of a cake -of chocolate that has been broken. The inside is the colour, not -the outside. It is advisable sometimes to have by you ready -a large slice of onion, and if you think it is dark enough you -can throw this in and immediately by this means slacken the -heat. Pour the brown roux into a separate basin, and put -them by for use. -</p> - -<p id="soups023"> -In the houses of most vegetarians more white roux will be -used than brown, consequently more than half should be removed -if this is the case when the roux first commences to -turn colour. When the brown roux gets cold it has all the -appearance of chocolate, and when you use it it is best to -scrape off the quantity you require with a spoon, and not add -it to soups or sauces in one lump. -</p> - -<p id="almondsoup023"> -<strong>Almond Soup.</strong>—Take half a pound of sweet almonds and -blanch them, <em>i.e.</em>, throw them into boiling water till the outside -skin can be rubbed off easily with the finger. Then immediately throw the -white almonds into cold water, otherwise they will quickly lose their white -colour like potatoes that have been peeled. Next, slice up an onion and -half a small head of celery, and let these simmer gently in a quart of -milk. In the meantime pound the almonds with four hard-boiled yolks of egg, -strain off the milk and add the pounded almonds and egg to the milk -gradually, and let it boil over the fire. Add sufficient <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a> till the soup becomes of the consistency of -cream. Serve some fried or toasted bread with the soup. It is a great -improvement to add half a pint of cream, but this makes the soup much more -expensive. The soup can be flavoured with a little white pepper. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—The onion and celery that was strained off can be -used again for flavouring purposes. -</p> - -<p id="applesoup024"> -<strong>Apple Soup.</strong>—This is a German recipe. Take half a dozen -good-sized apples, peel them and remove the core, and boil them -in a quart of water with two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; -add the juice of a lemon, and flavour it with rather less than -a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon; sweeten the soup -with lump sugar, previously having rubbed six lumps on the -outside of the lemon. -</p> - -<p id="artichokesoup024"> -<strong>Artichoke Soup.</strong>—Take a dozen large Jerusalem artichokes -about as big as the fist, or more to make up a similar quantity. -Peel them, and, like potatoes, throw them into cold water in -order to prevent them turning colour. Boil them in as little -water as possible, as they contain a good deal of water themselves, -till they are tender and become a pulp, taking care that -they do not burn, and therefore it is best to rub the saucepan -at the bottom with a piece of butter. Now rub them through -a wire sieve and add them to a pint of milk in which a couple -of bay-leaves have been boiled. Add also two lumps of sugar -and a little white pepper and salt. Serve the soup with fried -or toasted bread. This soup can be made much richer by the -addition of either a quarter of a pint of cream or a couple of -yolks of eggs. If yolks of eggs are added, beat up the yolks -separately and add the soup gradually, very hot, but not quite -boiling, otherwise the yolks will curdle. -</p> - -<p id="asparagussoup024"> -<strong>Asparagus Soup.</strong>—Take a good-sized bundle (about -fifty large heads) of asparagus, and after a thorough cleansing throw them -into a saucepan of boiling water that has been salted. When the tops become -tender, drain off the asparagus and throw it into cold water, as by this -means we retain the bright green colour; when cold cut off all the best -part of the green into little pieces, about half an inch long, then put the -remainder of the asparagus—the stalk part—into a saucepan, with -a few green onions and a few sprigs of parsley, with about a quart of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> -or water; add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar and a very little grated -nutmeg. Let this boil till the stalks become quite tender, then rub the -whole through a wire sieve and thicken the soup with a little <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, and colour it a bright green with some <a -href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a>. Now add the little pieces -cut up, and let the whole simmer gently, and serve fried or toasted bread -with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="spinachextract025"> -N.B.—<strong>Spinach Extract.</strong>—It is very important in making -all green vegetable soups that they should be of a green -colour, such as the one above mentioned—<a -href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">green-pea soup</a>, &c., -and that we get a <em>good</em> colour, and this is only to be obtained -by means of spinach extract. Spinach extract can be made at -home, but it will be found to be far more economical to have a -small bottle of green vegetable colouring always in the house. -These bottles can be obtained from all grocers at the cost of -about tenpence or one shilling each. Such a very small -quantity goes such a long way that one bottle would probably -last a family of six persons twelve months. As we have said, -it can be made at home, but the process, though not difficult, -is troublesome. It is made as follows:—A quantity of -spinach has, after being thoroughly washed, to be pounded in -a mortar until it becomes a pulp. This pulp is then placed in -a very strong, coarse cloth, and the cloth is twisted till the -juice of the spinach is squeezed out through the cloth. The -amount of force required is very considerable and is almost -beyond the power of ordinary women cooks. This juice must -now be placed in a small enamelled saucepan, and must be -heated till it becomes thick and pulpy, when it can be put by -for use. It will probably be found cheaper to buy spinach -extract than to make it, as manual labour cannot compete -with machinery. -</p> - -<p id="barleysoup025"> -<strong>Barley Soup.</strong>—Take two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley -and wash it in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Put -this in a saucepan with about two quarts of water, two onions sliced up, a -few potatoes sliced very thin, and about a saltspoonful of thyme. Let the -whole boil gently for four or five hours, till the barley is quite soft and -eatable. Thicken the soup very slightly with a little <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, season it with pepper and salt. Before -serving the soup, add a tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>N.B.</strong>—When chopped parsley is added to any soup or -sauce, such as parsley and butter, it is very important that -the parsley be blanched. To blanch parsley means to throw -it for a few seconds into boiling water. By this means a dull -green becomes a bright green. The best method to blanch -parsley is to place it in a strainer and dip the strainer for a -few seconds in a saucepan of boiling water. By comparing -the colour of the parsley that has been so treated with some -that has not been blanched, cooks will at once see the importance -of the operation so far as appearances are concerned. -</p> - -<p id="beetrootsoup026"> -<strong>Beetroot Soup</strong>.—This soup is better adapted to the German -palate than the English, as it contains both vinegar and sugar, -which are very characteristic of German cookery. Take two -large beetroots and two good-sized onions, and after peeling -the beetroots boil them and mince them finely, adding them, -of course, to the water in which they were boiled, or still -better, they can be boiled in some sort of <a href="#stock021">stock</a>. Add a very -small quantity of corn-flour, to give a slight consistency to the -soup, as well as a little pinch of thyme. Next add two tablespoonfuls -of vinegar—more or less according to taste—a -spoonful of brown sugar, and a little pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="redharicotbeansoup026"> -<strong>Bean Soup, or Purée of Red Haricot Beans</strong>.—Put a quart -of red haricot beans into soak overnight, and put a little -piece of soda in the water to soften it. The next morning put -the beans on to boil in three quarts of water, with some -carrot, celery and onion, or the beans can be boiled in some -<a href="#stock021">stock</a> made from these vegetables. After the beans are tender, -pound them in a mortar, and then rub the whole through a -wire sieve, after first removing the carrot, celery and onion. -Add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar and about two ounces of -butter. Fried or toasted bread should be served with the -soup. If the soup is liked thin, of course more water can -be added. -</p> - -<p id="whiteharicotbeansoup026"> -<strong>Bean Soup, or Purée of White Haricot Beans</strong>.—Proceed -exactly as in the above recipe, only substituting white haricot -beans for red. It is a great improvement to add a little -boiling cream, but of course this makes the soup much more -expensive. Some cooks add a spoonful of blanched, chopped -parsley to this purée, and Frenchmen generally flavour this -soup with garlic. -</p> - -<p id="greenbeansoup027"> -<strong>Bean Soup, Green</strong>.—Boil a quart of ordinary -broad-beans in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water with an onion, carrot and celery. Remove -the skins when the beans are tender and rub the beans through a wire sieve. -Colour the soup with a little <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a>—(vegetable colouring, -sold in bottles)—add a little piece of butter, a little powdered -sugar, pepper and salt. The amount of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water must depend upon -whether it is wished to have the purée thick or thin. Some -purées are made as thick as <a href="#breadsauce045">bread -sauce</a>, while some persons prefer them much thinner. This is purely a -matter of taste. -</p> - -<p id="frenchbeansoup027"> -<strong>Bean Soup from French Beans</strong>.—This is an admirable -method of using up French beans or scarlet runners when -they get too old to be boiled as a vegetable in the ordinary -way. Take any quantity of French beans and boil them in -some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water with an onion, carrot, or celery for about -an hour, taking care, at starting, to throw them into boiling -water in order to preserve their colour. It is also a saving of -trouble to chop the beans slightly at starting, <em>i.e.</em>, take a bunch -of beans in the left hand and cut them into pieces, say an -eighth of an inch in thickness. Boil them till they are -tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Add a -little butter, pepper and salt, and colour the soup with spinach -extract—(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles). Serve toasted -or fried bread with the purée, which should be rather thick. -</p> - -<p id="cabbagesoup027"> -<strong>Cabbage Soup</strong>.—Take a white cabbage and slice it up, and -throw it into some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, with some leeks and slices of -turnip. Boil the whole till the vegetables are tender, flavour -with pepper and salt. This is sometimes called Cornish broth, -though in Cornwall a piece of meat or bones are generally -boiled with the vegetables. As no meat, of course, is used, too -much water must not be added, but only sufficient liquor must -be served to make the vegetables thoroughly moist. Perhaps -the consistency can best be described by saying that there -should be equal quantities of vegetables and fluid. -</p> - -<p id="carrotsoup027"> -<strong>Carrot Soup</strong>.—If you wish this soup to be of a good colour, -you must only use the outside, or red part, of the carrot, in -which case a dozen large carrots will be required. If economy -is practised, half this quantity will be sufficient. Take, say, -half a dozen carrots, a small head of celery, and one onion, and -throw them into boiling water for a few minutes in order to -preserve the colour. Then drain them off and place them in a -saucepan, with a couple of ounces of butter to prevent them -sticking and burning, and place the saucepan on a very slack -fire and let them stew so that the steam can escape, but take -care they don’t burn or get brown. Now add a quart or two -quarts of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water and boil them till they are tender. -Then rub the whole through a wire sieve, add a little butter, -pounded sugar, pepper, and salt. The amount of liquid added -must entirely depend upon the size of the carrots. It is better -to add too little than too much, but the consistency of the -soup should be like ordinary <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>; it does not do to have -the soup watery. If only the outside parts of carrots are used, -and this red part is thrown, at starting, into boiling water to -preserve its colour, this soup, when made thick, has a very -bright and handsome appearance, and is suitable for occasions -when a little extra hospitality is exercised. The inside part of -the carrot, if not used for making the soup, need not be wasted, -but can be used for making <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, or served in a dish of mixed -vegetables on some other occasion. -</p> - -<p id="cauliflowersoup028"> -<strong>Cauliflower Soup.</strong>—Take three or four small cauliflowers, -or two large ones, soak them in salt and water, and boil them -in some water till they are nearly tender. Take them out and -break the cauliflower so that you get two or three dozen little -pieces out of the heart of the cauliflower, somewhat resembling -miniature bouquets. Put the rest of the cauliflower back into -the water in which it was boiled, with the exception of the -green part of the leaves, with an onion and some of the white part -of a head of celery. Let all boil till the water has nearly boiled -away. Now rub all this through a wire sieve, onions, celery, cauliflower, -and all; add to it sufficient boiling milk to make the -whole of the consistency of <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. Add a little butter, -pepper, and salt; throw in those little pieces of cauliflower that -had been reserved a minute or two before serving the soup. It -is an improvement to boil two or three bay-leaves with the -milk, and also a very great improvement indeed to add a little -boiling cream. Fried or toasted bread should be served with -the soup. -</p> - -<p id="celerysoup029"> -<strong>Celery Soup.</strong>—Take half a dozen heads of celery, or a -smaller quantity if the heads of celery are very large; throw -away all the green part and cut up the celery into small pieces, -with one onion sliced, and place them in a frying-pan, or, -better still, in an enamelled stew-pan, and stew them in a little -butter, taking great care that the celery does not turn colour. -Now add sufficient water or <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, and let it all boil till the -celery becomes quite tender. Let it boil till it becomes a pulp, -and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Next boil -separately from one to two quarts of milk according to the -quantity of celery pulp, and boil a couple of bay-leaves in the -milk. As soon as the milk boils add it to the celery pulp, -flavour the soup with pepper and salt; serve fried or toasted -bread with the soup. It is needless to say that all these white -soups are greatly improved both in appearance and flavour by -the addition of a little cream. -</p> - -<p id="cheesesoup029"> -<strong>Cheese Soup.</strong>—Light-coloured and dry cheese is -necessary for this somewhat peculiar soup, but the best cheese of all is, -undoubtedly, Gruyère. Grate half a pound of cheese and spread a -layer of this at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Cover this layer of cheese -with some very thin slices of stale crumb of bread. Then put another layer -of cheese and another layer of bread till all the cheese is used up. Next -take about two tablespoonfuls of <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, melt -this in a small saucepan, and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion. Let -the onion cook in the melted roux over the fire, and then add a quart of -water, and stir it all up till it boils, adding pepper and salt and a few -drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar) to give it a dark brown colour. Now -pour the boiling soup over the contents of the soup-tureen, and let it -stand a few minutes so that the bread has time to soak, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="cherrysoup029"> -<strong>Cherry Soup.</strong>—Like most soups that are either sweet or -sour, this is a German recipe. Put a piece of butter, the size -of a large egg, into a saucepan. Let it melt, then mix it with -a tablespoonful of flour, and stir smoothly until it is lightly -browned. Add gradually two pints of water, a pound of black -cherries, picked and washed, and a few cloves. Let these boil -until the fruit is quite tender, then press the whole through a -sieve. After straining, add a little port, if wine is allowed—but -the soup will be very nice without this addition—half a teaspoonful -of the kernels, blanched and bruised, a tablespoonful -of sugar, and a few whole cherries. Let the soup boil again -until the cherries are tender, and pour all into a tureen over -toasted sippets, sponge-cakes, or macaroons. -</p> - -<p id="chestnutsoup030"> -<strong>Chestnut Soup, or Purée of Chestnuts.</strong>—Take -four dozen chestnuts and peel them. This will be a very long process if we -attempt to take off the skins while they are raw; but in order to save time -and trouble, place the chestnuts in a stew-pan with a couple of ounces of -butter. Place them on a slack fire and occasionally give them a stir. Heat -them gradually till the husks come off without any difficulty. Having -removed all the husks, add sufficient <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water to the chestnuts, and -let them boil gently till they are tender. Then pound them in a mortar and -rub them through a wire sieve. Add a very little <a href="#roux022">brown -roux</a>, if the soup is to be brown, and a few drops of Parisian essence -(burnt sugar), or a little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a> and a little -cream if the soup is to be white. Add also a little pepper and salt, -sufficient butter to make the purée taste soft, and a little -powdered sugar. Fried and toasted bread should be served with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="cottagesoup030"> -<strong>Cottage Soup.</strong>—Fry two onions, a carrot and a turnip, and -a small head of celery cut up into small pieces, in a frying-pan, -with a little butter, till they are lightly browned. Then put -them in a saucepan, with about two quarts of water and a tablespoonful -of mixed savoury herbs. Let this boil till the vegetables -are quite tender, and then thicken the soup with two -ounces of oatmeal or prepared barley. This must be mixed -with cold water and made quite smooth before it is added to -the soup. Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil this in -the soup, and when the rice is quite tender the soup can be -served. Some persons add a little sugar, and dried powdered -mint can be handed round with the soup, like <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. -</p> - -<p id="clearsoup030"> -<strong>Clear Soup.</strong>—Make a very strong <a href="#stock021">stock</a> by cutting up -onion, celery, carrot, and a little turnip, and boiling them in -some water. They should boil for two or three hours. Add -also a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs to every quart, and -colour the stock with a few drops of Parisian essence. Strain -it off, and, if it is not bright, clear it with some white of egg -in the ordinary way. Take only sufficient corn-flour to make -the soup less thin or watery, but do not make it thick. A -tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup can be added to every -quart. -</p> - -<p id="cocoanutsoup031"> -<strong>Cocoanut Soup.</strong>—Break open a good-sized cocoanut and -grate sufficient of the white part till it weighs half a pound. -Boil this in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, and after it has boiled for about an hour -strain it off. Only a small quantity of stock must be used, -and the cocoanut should be pressed and squeezed, so as to -extract all the goodness. Add a little pepper and salt, and -about half a grated nutmeg. Next boil separately three pints -of milk, and add this to the strained soup. Thicken the soup -with some ground rice, and serve. Of course, a little cream -would be a great improvement. Serve with toasted or fried -bread. -</p> - -<p id="endivesoup031"> -<strong>Endive Soup, or Purée.</strong>—Take half a dozen endives that -are white in the centre, and wash them very thoroughly in salt -and water, as they are apt to contain insects. Next throw. -them into boiling water, and let them boil for a quarter of an -hour. Then take them out and throw them into cold water. -Next take them out of the cold water and squeeze them in a -cloth so as to extract all the moisture. Then cut off the root -of each endive, chop up all the white leaves, and place them -in a stew-pan with about two ounces of butter. Add half a -grated nutmeg, a brimming teaspoonful of powdered white -sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Stir them over the fire -with a wooden spoon, and take care they don’t burn or turn -colour. Next add sufficient milk to moisten them, and let -them simmer gently till they are tender; then rub the whole -through a wire sieve, add a little piece of butter, and serve -with fried or toasted bread. -</p> - -<p id="fruitsoup031"> -<strong>Fruit Soup.</strong>—Fruit soup can be made from rhubarb, vegetable -marrow, cucumber, gourd, or pumpkin. They may be all -mixed with a little cream, milk, or butter, and form a nice -dish that is both healthful and delicate. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Green Pea Soup.</strong>—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">PEA</a>.) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Green Pea Soup, Dried.</strong>—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">PEA</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="haresoup032"> -<strong>Hare Soup (Imitation).</strong>—Take one large carrot, a -small head of celery, one good-sized onion, and half a small turnip, and -boil these in a quart of water till they are tender. Rub the whole through -a wire sieve, and thicken the soup with some <a href="#roux022">brown -roux</a> till it is as thick as good cream. Next add a brimming -saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. These herbs are sold in bottles -by all grocers under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. Flavour the soup with -cayenne pepper, a glass of port wine (port wine dregs will do), dissolve in -it a small dessertspoonful of <a href="#redcurrantjelly161">red-currant -jelly</a>, and add the juice of half a lemon. -</p> - -<p id="herbaciousmixture032"> -N.B.—Aromatic flavouring herbs are exceedingly useful in -cooking. It is cheaper to buy them ready made, under the -name of Herbaceous Mixture. They can, however, be made -at home as follows:—Take two ounces of white peppercorns, -two ounces of cloves, one ounce of marjoram, one ounce of -sweet basil and one ounce of lemon-thyme, one ounce of powdered -nutmeg, one ounce of powdered mace, and half an ounce -of dried bay-leaves. The herbs must be wrapped up in paper -(one or two little paper bags, one inside the other, is best), and -dried very slowly in the oven till they are brittle. They must -then be pounded in a mortar, and mixed with the spices, and -the whole sifted through a fine hair-sieve and put by in a -stoppered bottle for use. -</p> - -<p id="hotchpotch032"> -<strong>Hotch-potch.</strong>—Cut up some celery, onion, carrot, turnip, -and leeks into small pieces and fry them for a few minutes in -about two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, very gently, taking -care that they do not in the least degree turn colour. Previous -to this, wash and boil about a quarter of a pound of pearl -barley for four or five hours. When the barley is tender, or -nearly tender, add the contents of the frying-pan. Let it all -boil till the vegetables are tender, and about half an hour -before the soup is sent to table throw in, while the soup is -boiling, half a pint of fresh green peas—those known as -marrowfats are best,—and about five minutes before sending -the soup to table throw in a spoonful (in the proportion of a -dessertspoonful to every quart) of chopped, blanched parsley—<em>i.e.</em>, -parsley that has been thrown into boiling water before it -is chopped. Colour the soup green with a little spinach -extract (vegetable colouring sold in bottles by all grocers). -The thinness of the soup can be removed by the addition -of a small quantity of <a href="#roux022">white roux</a>. -</p> - -<p id="jardinieresoup033"> -<strong>Jardinière Soup.</strong>—Cut up into thin strips some -carrot, turnip and celery, add a dozen or more small button onions, similar -to those used for pickling, and also a few hearts of lettuces cut up fine, -as well as a few fresh tarragon leaves cut into strips as thin as small -string. Simmer these gently in some clear soup (<em>see</em> <a -href="#clearsoup030">CLEAR SOUP</a>) till tender; add a lump of sugar, and -serve. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—The tarragon should not be thrown in till the last -minute. -</p> - -<p id="juliennesoup033"> -<strong>Julienne Soup.</strong>—This soup is exactly similar to the -previous one, the only exception being that all the vegetables are first -stewed very gently, till they are tender, in a little butter. Care should -be taken that the vegetables do not turn colour. -</p> - -<p id="leeksoup033"> -<strong>Leek Soup.</strong>- -Take half a dozen or more fine large leeks, -and after trimming off the green part, throw them into boiling water for -five minutes, then drain them off and dry them. Cut them into pieces about -half an inch long, and stew them gently in a little butter till they are -tender. Add three pints of milk, and let two bay-leaves boil in the milk, -flavour with pepper and salt, and add a suspicion of grated nutmeg. Thicken -the soup with a little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a> and take the crust -of a French roll. Cut this up into small pieces or rings. The rings can be -made by simply scooping out the crumb, and cutting the roll across. When -the leeks have boiled in the milk till they are quite tender, pour the soup -over the crusts placed at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Some cooks add -blanched parsley. Of course, cream would be a great improvement. -</p> - -<p id="lentilsoup033"> -<strong>Lentil Soup.</strong>—Take a breakfastcupful of green lentils and -put them to soak in cold water overnight. In the morning -throw away any floating on the top. Drain the lentils and -put them in a stew-pan or saucepan with some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, -and add two onions, two carrots, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, -a small teaspoonful of savoury herbs and a small head of celery. -If you have no celery add half a teaspoonful of bruised celery -seed. You can also add a crust of stale bread. Let the whole -boil, and it will be found that occasionally a dark film will -rise to the surface. This must be skimmed off. The soup -must boil for about four hours, or at any rate till the lentils -are thoroughly soft. Then strain the soup through a wire -sieve, and rub the whole of the contents through the wire sieve -with the soup. This requires both time and patience. After -the whole has been rubbed through the sieve the soup must be -boiled up, and if made from green lentils it can be coloured -green with some <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a>—(vegetable colouring, -sold in bottles). If made from Egyptian (red) lentils, the -soup can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence -(burnt sugar). In warming up this soup, after the lentils -have been rubbed through a sieve, it should be borne in -mind that the lentil powder has a tendency to settle, and -consequently the saucepan must be constantly stirred to prevent -it burning. In serving the soup at table, the contents -of the soup-tureen should be stirred with the soup-ladle before -each help. -</p> - -<p id="lentilalasoubise034"> -<strong>Lentil Purée à la Soubise</strong>.—This is -really lentil soup, made as above, rather thick, to which has been added a -purée of onions, made as follows:—Slice up, say four large -onions, and fry them brown in a little butter, then boil them in some of -the broth of the soup till they are tender. Rub them through a wire sieve -and add them to the soup. -</p> - -<p id="clearmacaronisoup034"> -<strong>Macaroni Soup (clear)</strong>.—Take some macaroni and break -it up into pieces about two inches long. Boil them till they -are tender in some salted water, drain them off and add them -to some clear soup. (<em>See</em> <a href="#clearsoup030">CLEAR SOUP</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="thickmacaronisoup034"> -<strong>Macaroni Soup (thick)</strong>.—Take an onion, carrot, a -small head of celery and a very small quantity of turnip; cut them up and -boil them in a very small quantity of water for about an hour. Then rub the -whole through a wire sieve, add a quart or more of boiling milk, throw in -the macaroni, after breaking it up into pieces two inches long, and let the -macaroni simmer in this till it is perfectly tender. The soup should be -thickened with a very little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a>, a bay-leaf -can be boiled in the soup; a small quantity of cream is a great -improvement. Fried or toasted bread should be served with it. -</p> - -<p id="milksoup035"> -<strong>Milk Soup.</strong>—Milk soup, as it is sometimes called in Germany, -very much resembles English custard. It is made by -putting a quart of milk on the fire and thickening it with two -yolks of eggs and a little flour, and sweetening it with sugar. -The soup is flavoured with either vanilla, lemon, laurel leaves, -pounded almonds, cinnamon, chocolate, &c. As a soup, however, -it is not suited to the English palate. -</p> - -<p id="mockturtlesoup035"> -<strong>Mock Turtle, Imitation.</strong>—Take an onion, carrot, small -head of celery, and some turnip, and boil them till they are tender in some -<a href="#stock021">stock</a>. The water in which some rice has been boiled -is very well suited for the purpose. Add also to every quart a brimming -tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, -thicken it with <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a> till it is as thick as -cream; add a few drops of Parisian essence—(sold in bottles by all -grocers)—to give it a dark colour. Add a wineglassful of sherry or -Madeira, or, if the use of wine be objected to, the juice of a hard lemon. -Flavour the soup with a little cayenne pepper, and serve some <a -href="#eggforcemeat083">egg forcemeat balls</a> in it, about the size of -small marbles. -</p> - -<p id="mulligatawnysoup035"> -<strong>Mulligatawny Soup.</strong>—Take four large onions, cut them -up and fry them brown, with a little butter, in a frying-pan, with a carrot -cut up into small pieces; add to this a quart of <a -href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and boil till the vegetables and -onions are tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve and add a -brimming teaspoonful of Captain White’s Curry Paste and a -dessertspoonful of curry powder, previously mixed smooth in a little cold -water; thicken the soup with a little <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>. -Some persons would consider this soup too hot; if so, less curry powder can -be used or more water added. If you have no curry paste, cut up a sour -apple and add it to the vegetables in the frying-pan. If you have no sour -apples, a few green gooseberries are a very good substitute. <a -href="#boiledrice061">Boiled rice</a> should be served on a separate dish -with this soup, and should not be boiled in the soup at starting. -</p> - -<p id="onionsoup035"> -<strong>Onion Soup.</strong>—Cut up half a dozen onions and throw -them for a few minutes into boiling water. This takes off the rankness. -Drain off the onions, and chop them up and boil them till they are tender -in some milk that has been seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of -savoury herbs. Take a small quantity of celery, carrot and turnip, or -carrot and turnip and a little bruised celery seed, and boil till they are -tender in a very little water; rub through a wire sieve, and add the pulp -to the soup. The soup can be thickened with <a href="#roux022">white -roux</a>, ground rice, or one or two eggs beaten up. The soup must be added -to the eggs gradually or they will curdle. -</p> - -<p id="brownonionsoup036"> -<strong>Onion Soup, Brown.</strong>—Take an onion, carrot, celery, -and turnip, and let them boil till quite tender in some water or <a href="#stock021">stock</a>. In -the meantime slice up half a dozen large onions and fry them brown in a -little butter, in a frying-pan, taking care that the onions are browned and -not burnt black; add the contents of the frying-pan to the vegetables and -stock, and after it has boiled some time, till the onions are tender, rub -the whole through a wire sieve, thicken with a little <a -href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, adding, of course, pepper and salt to -taste. -</p> - -<p id="oxtailsoup036"> -<strong>Ox-tail Soup, Imitation.</strong>—Slice off the outside red -part of two or three large carrots, and cut them up into small dice not -bigger than a quarter of an inch square. Cut up also into similar size a -young turnip, and the white, hard part of a head of celery. Fry these very -gently in a little butter, taking care that the vegetables do not turn -colour. Make some soup exactly in every respect similar to that described -in Imitation Mock Turtle. Throw in these fried vegetables, and let the soup -simmer gently by the side of the fire, in order for it to throw up its -butter, which should be skimmed off. In flavouring the soup, add only half -the quantity of wine or lemon juice that you would use were you making <a -href="#mockturtlesoup035">Mock Turtle</a>. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Palestine Soup.</strong>—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#artichokesoup024">ARTICHOKE SOUP</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="parsnipsoup036"> -<strong>Parsnip Soup.</strong>—Prepare half a dozen parsnips, and boil -them with an onion and half a head of celery in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> till -they are quite tender. Then rub the whole through a wire -sieve, boil it up again, and serve. Sufficient parsnips must be -boiled to make the soup as thick as <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>, so the quantity of -stock must be regulated accordingly. This soup is generally -rather sweet, owing to the parsnips, and an extra quantity of -salt must be added in consequence, as well as pepper. In -Belgium and Germany this sweetness is corrected by the -addition of vinegar. This, of course, is a matter of taste. -</p> - -<p id="pearsoup037"> -<strong>Pear Soup</strong>.—Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. -Put them into a stew-pan with a penny roll cut into thin slices, -half a dozen cloves, and three pints of water. Let them -simmer until they are quite tender, then pass them through -a coarse sieve, and return the purée to the saucepan, with -two ounces of sugar, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, and -half a tumblerful of light wine. Let the soup boil five or -ten minutes, when it will be ready for serving. Send some -sponge-cake to table with this dish. -</p> - -<p id="splitdriedpeasoup037"> -<strong>Pea Soup, from Split Dried Peas</strong>.—Take a pint of split -peas and put them in soak overnight in some cold water, and -throw away those that float, as this shows that there is a hole in -them which would be mildewy. Take two onions, a carrot, -a small head of celery, and boil them with the peas in from -three pints to two quarts of water till they are tender. This -will be from four to five hours. When the peas are old and -stale even longer time should be allowed. Then rub the whole -through a wire sieve, put the soup back into the saucepan, and -stir it while you make it hot or it will burn. In ordinary -cookery, pea soup is invariably made from some kind of greasy -stock, more especially the water in which pickled pork has been -boiled. In the present instance we have no kind of fat to -counteract the natural dryness of the pea-flour. We must -therefore add, before sending to table, two or three ounces -of butter. It will be found best to dissolve the butter in -the saucepan before adding the soup to be warmed up, as it is -then much less likely to stick to the bottom of the saucepan -and burn. Fried or toasted bread should be served with the -soup separately, as well as dried and powdered mint. The -general mistake people make is, they do not have sufficient -mint. -</p> - -<p id="driedgreenpeasoup037"> -<strong>Pea Soup, from Dried Green Peas</strong>.—Proceed as in the -above recipe in every respect, substituting dried green peas for ordinary -yellow split peas. Colour the soup green by adding a large handful of -spinach before it is rubbed through the wire sieve, or add a small quantity -of <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> (vegetable colouring -sold by grocers in bottles); dried mint and fried or toasted bread should -be served with the soup, as with the other. -</p> - -<p id="freshgreenpeasoup038"> -<strong>Pea Soup, Green (Fresh)</strong>.—Take half a peck of young -peas, shell them, and throw the peas into cold water. Put all the shells -into a quart or more of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water. Put in also -a handful of spinach if possible, a few sprigs of parsley, a dozen fresh -mint-leaves and half a dozen small, fresh, green onions. Boil these for an -hour, or rather more, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. You -cannot rub all the shells through; but you will be able to rub a great part -through, that which is left in the sieve being only strings. Now put on the -soup to boil again, and as soon as it boils throw in the peas; as soon as -these are tender—about twenty minutes—the soup is finished and -can be sent to table. If the soup is thin, a little <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>can be added to thicken it; if of a bad -colour, or if you could not get any spinach, add some <a -href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> (vegetable colouring, sold by -all grocers), only take care not to add too much, and make the soup look -like green paint. -</p> - -<p id="potatosoup038"> -<strong>Potato Soup</strong>.—Potato soup is a very good method of -using up the remains of cold boiled potatoes. Slice up a large -onion and fry it, without letting it turn colour, with a little -butter. Add a little water or <a href="#stock021">stock</a> to the frying-pan, and let -the onion boil till it is tender. Boil a quart or more of milk -separately with a couple of bay-leaves; rub the onion with the -cold potatoes through a wire sieve and add it to the milk. You -can moisten the potatoes in the sieve with the milk. When -you have rubbed enough to make the soup thick enough, let it -boil up and add to every quart a saltspoonful of thyme and a -brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley. This soup -should be rather thicker than most thick soups. -</p> - -<p> -When new potatoes first come into season, and especially -when you have new potatoes from your own garden, it will -often be found that mixed with the ordinary ones there are -many potatoes no bigger than a toy marble, and which are too -small to be boiled and sent to table as an ordinary dish of new -potatoes. Reserve all these little dwarf potatoes, wash them, -and throw them for five or ten minutes into boiling water, -drain them off and throw them into the potato soup whole. -Of course they must boil in the soup till they are tender. A -little cream is a great improvement to the soup, and dried mint -can be served with it, but is not absolutely necessary. -</p> - -<p id="pumpkinsoup039"> -<strong>Pumpkin Soup.</strong>—Take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized -pumpkin, pare it, remove the seeds, and cut the pumpkin -into thin slices. Put these into a stew-pan, with as much -water or milk as will cover them, and boil gently until they are -reduced to a pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with it -a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, and -stir it over the fire until it boils. Thin it with some boiling -milk which has been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind, -cinnamon, or orange-flower water. It should be of the consistency -of thick cream. Put toasted bread, cut into the size -of dice, at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Moisten the bread-dice -with a small quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little -while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, and serve -very hot. Or whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen, -and pour the soup in over them at the last moment. The -liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for a minute or two -before it is poured over the eggs. -</p> - -<p id="rhubarbsoup039"> -<strong>Rhubarb Soup.</strong>—This is a sweet soup, and is simply juice -from stewed rhubarb sweetened and flavoured with lemon-peel -and added either to cream or beaten-up yolks of eggs and a -little white wine. It is rarely met with in this country. -</p> - -<p id="ricesoup039"> -<strong>Rice Soup.</strong>—Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and -wash it in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Take an -onion, the white part of a head of celery, and a turnip, and cut them up -and fry them in a little butter. Add a quart of <a -href="#stock021">stock</a>, or water, and boil these vegetables until they -are tender, and then rub them through a wire sieve. Boil the rice in this -soup till it is tender, flavour with pepper and salt, add a little milk -boiled separately, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="ricesoupalaroyale039"> -<strong>Rice Soup à la Royale.</strong>—Take half a pound of -rice and wash it thoroughly in several waters till the water ceases to be -discoloured. Boil this rice in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> that has -been strongly flavoured with onion, carrot and celery, and strained off. -When the rice is tender rub it through a wire sieve, then add some boiling -milk, in which two or three bay-leaves have been boiled, and half a pint of -cream, till the soup is a proper consistency. Serve some <a -href="#eggforcemeat083">egg forcemeat balls</a> with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="sorrelsoup040"> -<strong>Sorrel Soup.</strong>—Take some sorrel and wash it very thoroughly. -Like spinach, it requires a great deal of cleansing. Drain it -off and place the sorrel in a stew-pan, and keep stirring it with -a wooden spoon. When it has dissolved and boiled for two or -three minutes, let it drain on a sieve till the water has run off. -Next cut up a large onion and fry it in a little butter, but do -not brown the onion. Add a tablespoonful of flour to every -two ounces of butter used, also a teaspoonful of sugar, a little -grated nutmeg, also a little pepper and salt; add the sorrel to -this, with a small quantity of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, then rub the -whole through a wire sieve, and serve. In some parts of the -Continent vinegar is added, but it is not adapted to English -taste. -</p> - -<p id="sagosoup040"> -<strong>Sago Soup.</strong>—Take two ounces of sage, and having washed -it very thoroughly, put it on to boil in a quart of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> strongly -flavoured with onion, celery, and carrot, but which has been -strained off. The sage must boil until it becomes quite transparent -and tender. Flavour the soup with a little pepper and -salt, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, about half a teaspoonful of -powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice from a hard -lemon. -</p> - -<p id="seakalesoup040"> -<strong>Sea-kale Soup.</strong>—This makes a very delicious soup, but it is -somewhat rare. Take a bundle of sea-kale, the whiter the -better. Threw it into boiling water, and let it boil for a few -minutes, then take it out and drain it; cut it up into small -pieces and place it in a stew-pan with about two ounces of -butter, add a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg; stir it -up until the butter is thoroughly melted, but do not let it turn -colour in the slightest degree. Add some milk, and let it -simmer very gently for about half an hour. Rub the whole -through a wire sieve, and add a small quantity of cream. Serve -with toasted or fried bread. -</p> - -<p id="scotchbroth040"> -<strong>Scotch Broth.</strong>—Take two or three ounces of pearl barley, -wash it, and threw it into boiling water, and let it boil for five -or ten minutes. Then drain it off and threw away the water. -This is the only way to get pearl barley perfectly clean. Then -put on the barley in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and let it boil for -four hours, till it is tender. Then add to it every kind -of vegetable that is in season, such as onion, celery, carrot, -turnip, peas, French beans, cut up into small pieces, hearts of -lettuces cut up. Flavour with pepper and salt and serve -altogether. If possible add leeks to this soup instead of onion, -and just before serving the soup throw in a brimming dessertspoonful -of chopped blanched parsley to every quart of soup. A -pinch of thyme can also be added. -</p> - -<p id="spinachsoup041"> -<strong>Spinach Soup.</strong>—Wash some young, freshly gathered spinach, -cut it up with a lettuce, and, if possible, a few leaves of -sorrel, and throw them into boiling water. Let them boil -for five minutes, drain them off, and throw them into cold -water in order to keep their colour. Next take them out of -the water and squeeze all the moisture from them; then melt -two ounces of butter in a stew-pan, and add two tablespoonfuls -of flour. When this is thoroughly mixed together, and -begins to frizzle, add the spinach, lettuce, &c., and stir them -round and round in the stew-pan till all is well mixed together. -Then add sufficient water or vegetable <a href="#stock021">stock</a> to moisten the -vegetables (add also a pinch of thyme), and let it boil. -When it has boiled for about twenty minutes add a quart of -milk that has been boiled separately, flavour with pepper and -salt, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="tapiocasoup041"> -<strong>Tapioca Soup.</strong>—Clear tapioca soup is made by -thickening some ordinary clear soup (<em>see</em> <a -href="#clearsoup030">CLEAR SOUP</a>) with tapioca, allowing about two -ounces of tapioca to every quart. The tapioca should be put into the soup -when it is cold, and it is then far less likely to get lumpy. Tapioca can -also be boiled in a little strongly flavoured <a href="#stock021">stock</a> that has not been -coloured, and then add some boiling milk. Tapioca should be allowed to -simmer for an hour and a half. Of course, a little cream is a great -improvement when the soup is made with milk. -</p> - -<p id="tomatosoup041"> -<strong>Tomato Soup.</strong>—This is a very delicate soup, and the -endeavour should be to try and retain the flavour of the -tomato. Slice up an onion, or better still two shallots, and fry -them in a little butter, to which can be added a broken-up, -dried bay-leaf, a saltspoonful of thyme, and a very small -quantity of grated nutmeg, Fry these in a little batter till the -onion begins to turn colour, and then add a dozen ripe tomatoes -from which the pips have been squeezed. Moisten with -a very little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and let them stew till they -are tender, then rub the whole through a wire sieve. The consistency -should be that of <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. Add a little butter to -soften the soup), and flavour with pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="turnipsoup042"> -<strong>Turnip Soup.</strong>—Cut up some young turnips into small -pieces, throw them into boiling water, let them boil for a few -minutes, take them out and strain them, and put them into a -stew-pan with about two ounces of fresh butter; add a little salt -and sugar. Let them stew in the butter (taking great care that -they don’t turn colour) till they become soft, then add sufficient -boiling milk to moisten them, so that when rubbed through a -wire sieve the soup will be of the consistency of <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. -Serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="vegetablemarrowsoup042"> -<strong>Vegetable Marrow Soup.</strong>—Take a large vegetable marrow, -peel it, cut it open, remove all the pips, and place it in a stew-pan -with about two ounces of fresh butter. Add a brimming -teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and -pepper and salt. Keep turning the pieces of vegetable marrow -over in the butter, taking care that they do not at all turn -colour. After frying these pieces gently for five or ten minutes, -add some boiling milk, and let the whole simmer gently till it -can be rubbed through a wire sieve. Care must be taken not -to get this soup too thin, as the vegetable marrow itself contains -a large quantity of water. Season with pepper and salt, and -serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="vegetablesoup042"> -<strong>Vegetable Soup.</strong>—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#jardinieresoup033">JARDINIÈRE SOUP</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="vermicellisoup042"> -<strong>Vermicelli Soup.</strong>—Take a quarter of a pound of -vermicelli and break it up into small pieces, throw it into boiling water, -and let it boil for five minutes to get rid of the dirt and floury taste, -then throw it immediately into about a quart of <a -href="#clearsoup030">clear soup</a>. The vermicelli must be taken from the -boiling water and thrown into the boiling soup at once. If you were to boil -the vermicelli, strain it off, and put it by to add to the soup, you would -find it would stick together in one lump and be spoilt. -</p> - -<p id="whitevermicellisoup042"> -<strong>Vermicelli Soup, White.</strong>—The vermicelli must be thrown -into white soup instead of clear soup. (<em>See</em> <a -href="#whitesoup043">WHITE SOUP</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="whitesoup043"> -<strong>White Soup.</strong>—Just as in ordinary white soup the -secret of success is to have some strongly reduced <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, so in vegetarian -white soup it is essential that we should have a small quantity of liquid -strongly impregnated with the flavour of vegetables. For this purpose, -place an onion, the white part of a head of celery, and a slice of turnip -in a stew-pan with a little butter, and fry them till they are tender -without becoming brown. Now add sufficient water to enable you to boil -them, and let the water boil away till very little is left. Now rub this -through a wire sieve and add it to a quart of milk in which a couple of -bay-leaves have been boiled. Thicken the soup with a little <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, add a suspicion of nutmeg, and also, if -possible, a little cream. Flavour with pepper and salt. Serve fried or -toasted bread with the soup. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter2">CHAPTER II.</h2> - - - - - <h3 id="sauces044">SAUCES.</h3> - - - - <p id="allemandesauce044"> - <strong>Sauce Allemande.</strong>—Take a pint of butter - sauce—(<em>see</em> <a href="#buttersauce046">BUTTER - SAUCE</a>)—and add to it four yolks of eggs. In order to do this - you must beat up the yolks separately in a basin and add the hot butter - sauce gradually, otherwise the yolks of eggs will curdle and the sauce - will be spoilt. In fact, it must be treated exactly like custard, and - in warming up the sauce it is often a good plan, if you have no - <em>bain-marie</em>, to put the sauce in a jug and place the jug in a - saucepan of boiling water. The sauce should be flavoured with a little - essence of mushroom if possible. Essence of mushroom can be made from - the trimmings of mushrooms, but mushroom ketchup must not be used on - account of the colour. Essence of mushroom can be made by placing the - trimmings of mushrooms in a saucepan, stewing them gently, and - extracting the flavour. The large black mushrooms, however, are not - suited. In addition to this essence of mushroom, a little lemon - juice—allowing the juice of half a lemon to every pint, should be - added to the sauce, as well as a slight suspicion of nutmeg, a pint of - sauce requiring about a dozen grates of a nutmeg. A little cream is a - great improvement to this sauce, but is not absolutely necessary. The - sauce should be perfectly smooth. Should it therefore contain any - lumps, which is not unfrequently the case in <a - href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, pass the sauce through a sieve - with a wooden spoon and then put it by in a <em>bain-marie</em>, or - warm it up in a jug as directed. - </p> - -<p id="almondsauce044"> -<strong>Almond Sauce.</strong>—This is suitable for puddings. The -simplest way of making it is to make, say half a pint of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter -sauce</a>, or, cheaper, thicken half a pint of milk with a little -corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, and then add a few -drops of essence of almonds. About a dozen drops will be -sufficient if the essence is strong, but essence of almonds varies -greatly in strength. The sauce can be coloured pink with a -few drops of cochineal. -</p> - -<p id="almondsauceclear045"> -<strong>Almond Sauce (clear).</strong>—Thicken half a pint of water with -a little corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, add a dozen -drops of essence of almonds and a few drops of cochineal to -colour it pink. The sauce is very suitable to pour over custard -puddings made in a basin or cup and turned out on to a dish. -It is also very cheap. -</p> - -<p id="applesauce045"> -<strong>Apple Sauce.</strong>—Peel say a dozen apples; cut them into -quarters; and be very careful in removing all the core, as many -a child is choked through carelessness in this respect. Stew -the apples in a little water till they become a pulp, placing -with them half a dozen cloves and half a dozen strips of the -yellow part only of the outside of the rind of a <em>fresh</em> lemon -of the size and thickness of the thumb-nail; sweeten with -brown sugar, that known as Porto Rico being the most -economical. Add a small piece of butter before serving. -</p> - -<p id="arrowrootsauce045"> -<strong>Arrowroot Sauce.</strong>—Thicken half a pint of water with -about a dessertspoonful of arrowroot and sweeten it with white -sugar. The sauce can be flavoured by rubbing a few lumps of -sugar on the outside of a lemon, or with a few drops of essence of -vanilla, or with the addition of a little sherry or spirit, the best -spirit being rum. This sauce can, of course, be coloured pink -with cochineal. -</p> - -<p id="artichokesauce045"> -<strong>Artichoke Sauce.</strong>—Proceed exactly as if you were -making <a href="#artichokesoup024">artichoke soup</a>, only make the -purée thicker by using less liquid. A simple artichoke sauce can be -made by boiling down a few Jerusalem artichokes to a pulp, rubbing them -through a wire sieve, and flavouring with pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="asparagussauce045"> -<strong>Asparagus Sauce.</strong>—Boil a bundle of asparagus and rub -all the green, tender part through a wire sieve, till it is a thick -pulp, flavour with a little pepper and salt, add a small piece of -butter, and a little <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> (vegetable colouring sold -in bottles) in order to give it a good colour. -</p> - -<p id="breadsauce045"> -<strong>Bread Sauce.</strong>—Take some dry crumb of bread, and rub -through a wire sieve. The simplest plan is to turn the -wire sieve upside down on a large sheet of paper. The bread -must be stale, and stale pieces can be put by for this purpose. -Next take, say, a pint of milk, and let it boil; then -throw in the bread-crumbs and let them <em>boil</em> in the milk. -This is the secret of good bread sauce. Add a dozen peppercorns, -and place a whole onion in the saucepan containing the -bread and milk, and place the saucepan beside the fire in order -to allow the bread-crumbs to swell. It will be found that -though at starting the bread sauce was quite thin and milky, -yet after a time it becomes thick. Take out the onion, add a -little piece of butter, stir it up, and serve. A little cream is a -great improvement, but is not absolutely necessary. This -sauce, though very simple, requires care: Many persons will -probably recollect having met with bread sauce which in -appearance resembled a poultice too much to be agreeable -either to the palate or the eye. -</p> - -<p id="buttersauce046"> -<strong>Butter Sauce.</strong>—This is the most important of all the -sauces with which we have to deal. The great mistake made by the vast -majority of women cooks is that they will use milk. They thicken a pint of -milk with a little butter and flour, and then call it melted butter, and, -as a rule, send to table enough for twenty persons when only two or three -are dining. As butter sauce will be served with the majority of vegetables, -we would call the attention of vegetarians to the fact that, as a rule, -ordinary cookery-books take for granted that vegetables will be served with -the meat. When therefore vegetables are served separately, and are intended -to be eaten with bread as a course by themselves, some alteration must be -made in the method of serving them. Again, vegetarians should bear in mind -that, except in cases where poverty necessitates rigid economy, a certain -amount of butter may be considered almost a necessity, should the meal be -wished to be both wholesome and nourishing. Francatelli, who was -<em>chef-de-cuisine</em> to the Earl of Chesterfield, and was also chief -cook to the Queen and <em>chef</em> at the Reform Club, and afterwards -manager of the Freemasons’ Tavern, in writing on this subject -observes:—“Butter sauce, or, as it is more absurdly called, -melted butter, is the foundation of the whole of the following sauces, and -requires very great care in its preparation. Though simple, it is -nevertheless a very useful and agreeable sauce when properly made. So far -from this being usually the case, it is too generally left to assistants to -prepare, as an insignificant matter; the result is therefore seldom -satisfactory. When a large quantity of butter sauce is required, put four -ounces of fresh butter into a middle-sized stew-pan, with some grated -nutmeg and minionette pepper; to these add four ounces of sifted flour, -knead the whole well together, and moisten with a pint of cold spring -water; stir the sauce on the fire till it boils, and after having kept it -gently boiling for twenty minutes (observing that it be not thicker than -the consistency of common <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>), -proceed to mix in one pound and a half of sweet fresh butter, taking care -to stir the sauce quickly the whole time of the operation. Should it appear -to turn oily, add now and then a spoonful of cold spring water; finish with -the juice of half a lemon, and salt to palate; then pass the sauce through -a tammy into a large <em>bain-marie</em> for use.” -</p> - -<p> -We have quoted the recipe of the late M. Francatelli in -full, as we believe it is necessary to refer to some very great -authority in order to knock out the prejudice from the minds -of many who think that they not only can themselves cook, -but teach others, but who are bound in the chains of prejudice -and tradition which, too often, in the most simple recipes, -lead them to follow in the footsteps of their grandmothers. -</p> - -<p> -Real butter sauce can be made as follows, on a small scale:—Take -a claret-glass of water, and about a small teaspoonful of -flour mixed with rather more than the same quantity of butter, -and mix this in the water over the fire till it is of the consistency -of very thin gruel. If it is thicker than this, add a -little more water. Now take any quantity of butter, and -gradually dissolve as much as you can in this thin gruel, -adding say half an ounce at a time, till the sauce becomes -a rich oily compound. After a time, if you add too much -butter, the sauce will curdle and turn oily, as described by -Francatelli. -</p> - -<p> -Of course, in everyday life it is not necessary to have the -butter sauce so rich, still it is simply ridiculous to thicken a -pint of milk, or a pint of water, with a little butter and flour, -and then call it butter sauce or melted butter. Suppose we -have a large white cabbage, like those met with in the West -of England, and we are going to make a meal off it in conjunction -with plenty of bread. Suppose the cabbage is sufficiently -large for six persons, surely half a pound of butter is not an -excessive quantity to use in making butter sauce for the -purpose. Yet prejudice is such that if we use half a pound of -butter for the butter sauce, housekeepers consider it extravagant. -On the other hand, if the butter were placed on the -table, and the six persons helped themselves, and ate bread and -butter with the cabbage and finished the half-pound, it would -not be considered extravagant. Of course, this is simply -prejudice. -</p> - -<p> -A simple way of making melted butter is as follows:—Take half a pint -of cold water, put it in a saucepan, and add sufficient <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, or butter and flour mixed, till it is of -the consistency of thin gruel. Now gradually dissolve in this, adding a -little piece at a time, as much butter as you can afford; add a suspicion -of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and a few drops of lemon-juice from a -fresh lemon, if you have one in use. -</p> - -<p id="oiledbutter048"> -<strong>Butter, Melted, or Oiled Butter.</strong>—Melted butter, properly -speaking, is rarely met with in this country, but is a common -everyday sauce on the Continent. It is simply what it says. -A piece of butter is placed in a little sauce-boat and placed in -the oven till the butter runs to oil, and then sent to table with -all kinds of fish with which in our present work we have -nothing to do; but it is also sent to table with all kinds of -vegetables, such as French artichokes, &c.; sometimes a spoonful -of French capers is added to the oiled butter. -</p> - -<p id="blackbutter048"> -<strong>Butter, Black, or Beurre Noir.</strong>—Take two ounces of -butter, and dissolve it in a frying-pan, and let it frizzle till -the butter turns a brown colour; then add a tablespoonful -of French vinegar, a teaspoonful of chopped capers, a teaspoonful -of Harvey’s sauce, and a teaspoonful of mushroom -ketchup. Let it remain on the fire till the acidity of the -vinegar is removed by evaporation. This is a very delicious -sauce, and can be served with Jerusalem artichokes boiled -whole, <a href="#friedeggs080">fried eggs</a>, &c. -</p> - -<p id="capersauce049"> -<strong>Caper Sauce</strong>.—Make some <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, and to every half-pint of sauce -add a dessertspoonful of chopped French capers. If the sauce is liked -sharp, add some of the vinegar from the bottle of capers. -</p> - -<p id="carrotsauce049"> -<strong>Carrot Sauce</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in <a -href="#carrotsoup027">carrot soup</a>, using less liquid. -</p> - -<p id="cauliflowersauce049"> -<strong>Cauliflower Sauce</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in <a -href="#cauliflowersoup028">cauliflower soup</a>, using less liquid. -</p> - -<p id="celerysauce049"> -<strong>Celery Sauce</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in <a -href="#celerysoup029">celery soup</a>, only using less liquid. The thicker -this sauce is the better. -</p> - -<p id="cherrysauce049"> -<strong>Cherry Sauce</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pound of dried -cherries, and put them into a small stew-pan, with a dessertspoonful of <a -href="#blackcurrantjelly160">black currant jelly</a>, a small stick of -cinnamon, with half a dozen cloves, and add rather less than half a pint of -water, and let the whole simmer gently for about ten minutes, when you must -take out the spices and send the rest to table. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—If wine is not objected to in cooking, it is a very -good plan to add claret instead of water. -</p> - -<p id="chestnutsauce049"> -<strong>Chestnut Sauce</strong>.—Proceed as in making <a -href="#chestnutsoup030">chestnut soup</a>, using as little liquid as -possible, so as to make the sauce thick. -</p> - -<p id="cinnamonsauce049"> -<strong>Cinnamon Sauce</strong>.—The simplest way of making cinnamon -sauce is to sweeten some <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> with -some white sugar, and then add a few drops of essence of cinnamon. The -sauce can be coloured pink with a little cochineal. A little wine is an -improvement. The sauce can also be made by breaking up and boiling a stick -of cinnamon in some water, and then using the water to make some butter -sauce. -</p> - -<p id="cocoanutsauce049"> -<strong>Cocoanut Sauce</strong>.—Grate the white, part of a cocoanut very -finely, and boil it till tender in a very small quantity of water; -add about an equal quantity of white sugar as there was cocoa-nut; -mix in either the yolk of an egg or a tablespoonful of -cream. A little lemon juice is an improvement. -</p> - -<p id="cucumbersauce049"> -<strong>Cucumber Sauce</strong>.—Take two or three small cucumbers, -peel them, slice them, and place them in a dish with a little salt, which -has the effect of extracting the water. Now drain the pieces off and strain -then in a cloth, to extract as much moisture as possible. Put then in a -frying-pan with a little butter; fry them very gently, till they begin to -turn colour, then nib them through a wire sieve; moisten the pulp with a -little <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>; add a little pepper, -salt, and grated nutmeg and vinegar to taste. -</p> - -<p id="redcurrantsauce050"> -<strong>Currant Sauce (Red)</strong>.—Put a couple of tablespoonfuls -of <a href="#redcurrantjelly161">red currant jelly</a>into a small -stew-pan, with half a dozen cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, and the rind -of an orange. Moisten with a little water, or still better, a little -claret, strain it off, and add the juice of the orange. -</p> - -<p id="blackcurrantsauce050"> -<strong>Currant Sauce (Black)</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in the above -recipe, substituting <a href="#blackcurrantjelly160">black currant jelly</a> for red. -</p> - -<p id="currysauce050"> -<strong>Curry Sauce</strong>.—Take six large onions, peel them, cut -them up into small pieces, and fry them in a frying-pan in about two ounces -of butter. As soon as the onions begin to change colour, take a small -carrot and cut it up into little piece; and a sour apple. When the onions, -etc., are fried a nice brown, add about a pint of vegetable <a -href="#stock021">stock</a> or water and let the whole simmer till the -vegetables are quite tender, then add a tea-spoonful of Captain -White’s curry paste and a dessertspoonful of curry powder; now rub -the whole through a wire sieve, and take care that all the vegetables go -through. It is rather troublesome, but will repay you, as good curry sauce -cannot be made without. The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick owing -to the vegetables being rubbed through the wire sieve. Should therefore the -onions be small, less water or stock had better be added. Curry sauce could -be thickened with a little <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, but it takes -away from the flavour of the curry. A few bay-leaves may be added to the -sauce and served up whole in whatever is curried. For instance, if we have -a dish of <a href="#curriedrice063">curried rice</a>, half a dozen or more -bay-leaves could be added to the sauce and served up with the rice. -</p> - -<p> -There are many varieties of curry. In India fresh mangoes -take the part of our sour apples. Some persons add -grated cocoanut to curry, and it is well worth a trial, although -on the P. and O. boats the Indian curry-cook mixes the curry -fresh every day and uses cocoanut oil for the purpose. In some -parts of India it is customary to serve up whole chillies in the -curry, but this would be better adapted to a stomach suffering -from the effects of brandy-pawnee than to the simple taste of -the vegetarian. -</p> - -<p id="dutchsauce051"> -<strong>Dutch Sauce.</strong>—This is very similar to <a -href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande Sauce</a>. Take half a pint of good <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, make it thoroughly hot, add two -yolks of eggs, taking care that they do not curdle, a little pepper and -salt, a suspicion of nutmeg, and about a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. -Some persons instead of using tarragon vinegar add a little lemon juice, -say the half of a fresh lemon to this quantity, and half a dozen fresh -tarragon leaves, blanched—that is, dipped for a few seconds in -boiling water—and then chopped very fine. The tarragon vinegar is -much the simplest, as it is very difficult to get fresh tarragon leaves -unless one has a good garden or lives near Covent Garden Market. -</p> - -<p id="greendutchsauce051"> -<strong>Dutch Sauce (Green).</strong>—Proceed exactly as above and colour -the sauce a bright green with a little <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> (vegetable -colouring, sold in bottles by all grocers). -</p> - -<p id="eggsauce051"> -<strong>Egg Sauce.</strong>—Take half a dozen eggs, put them in a -saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them. Put them on the fire and -let them boil for ten minutes after the water boils. Take them out and put -them into cold water and let them stand for ten minutes, when the shells -can be removed; then cut up the six <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> into little pieces, add -sufficient <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> to moisten them, make -the whole hot, and serve. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—Inexperienced cooks often think that hard-boiled eggs -are bad when they are not, owing to their often having a tinge of -green colour round the outside of the yolk and to their emitting -a peculiar smell when the shells are first removed while hot -All eggs contain a small quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen. -</p> - -<p id="fennelsauce051"> -<strong>Fennel Sauce.</strong>—Blanch and chop up sufficient fennel -to colour half a pint of <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> a -bright green, add a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="germansweetsauce051"> -<strong>German Sweet Sauce.</strong>—Take a quarter of a pound of dried -cherries, a small saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a -few strips of lemon peel, and put them in a small saucepan -with about a quarter of a pint of water, or still better, claret, -if wine is allowed, and let them simmer on the fire gently -for about half an hour; then rub the cherries through a wire -sieve with the liquor—(of course, the lemon peel and cloves -will not rub through)—and add this to a quarter of a pound -of <a href="#stewedprunes173">stewed prunes</a>. This is a very popular sauce abroad. -</p> - -<p id="gingersauce052"> -<strong>Ginger Sauce</strong>.—The simplest way of making ginger -sauce is to sweeten half a pint of <a href="#buttersauce046">butter -sauce</a> and then add a few drops of essence of ginger. A richer ginger -sauce can be made by taking two or three tablespoonfuls of preserved ginger -and two or three tablespoonfuls of the syrup in which they are preserved, -rubbing this through a wire sieve, adding about an equal quantity of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, making the whole hot in a -saucepan. -</p> - -<p id="gooseberrysauce052"> -<strong>Gooseberry Sauce</strong>.—Pick and then stew some green gooseberries, -just moistening the stewpan with a little water to -prevent them burning. Rub the whole through a hair sieve -in order to avoid having any pips in the sauce. Sweeten with -a little Demerara sugar, as Porto Rico would be too dark in -colour. Colour the sauce a bright green with a little spinach -extract. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—It is a mistake to add cream to gooseberry sauce, -which is distinct altogether from gooseberry fool. In Germany, -vinegar is added to this sauce and it is served with meat. -</p> - -<p id="horseradishsauce052"> -<strong>Horse-radish Sauce</strong>.—Horse-radish sauce is made, -properly speaking, by mixing grated horse-radish with cream, vinegar, -sugar, made mustard, and a little pepper and salt. A very simple method of -making this sauce is to substitute tinned Swiss milk for the cream and -sugar. It is equally nice, more economical, and possesses this great -advantage: a few tins of Swiss milk can always be kept in the store -cupboard, whereas there is considerable difficulty, especially in all large -towns, in obtaining cream without giving twenty-four hours’ notice, -and the result even then is not always satisfactory. Horse-radish sauce is -very delicious, and its thickness should be entirely dependent upon the -amount of grated horse-radish. Sticks of horse-radish vary so very much in -size that we will say, grate sufficient to fill a teacup, throw this into a -sauce tureen, mix a dessertspoonful of Swiss milk with a tablespoonful of -vinegar and about two tablespoonfuls of milk and a teaspoonful of made -mustard, add this to the horse-radish, and, if necessary, sufficient milk -to make the whole of the consistency of <a href="#breadsauce045">bread -sauce</a>. As the sauce is very hot, as a rule it is best not to add any -pepper, which can be easily added afterwards by those who like it. -</p> - -<p id="indianpicklesauce053"> -<strong>Indian Pickle Sauce</strong>.—Chop up two or three -tablespoonfuls of Indian pickles, place them in a frying-pan with a quarter -of a pint of water, and if the pickles are sour as well as hot, let them -simmer some little time so as to get rid of the vinegar by evaporation. -Then thicken the whole with some <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a> till the -sauce is as thick as <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. The -vinegar should be got rid of as much as possible. This is a very appetising -dish with <a href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a> and Parmesan cheese. -</p> - -<p id="italiansauce053"> -<strong>Italian Sauce</strong>.—This is an old-fashioned recipe taken -from a book written in French, and published more than fifty -years ago. Put into a saucepan a little parsley, a shallot, some -mushrooms and truffles, chopped very finely, with a piece of -butter about the size of a walnut. Let all boil gently for half -an hour, add a spoonful of oil, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="maitredhotelsauce053"> -<strong>Maître d’Hôtel Sauce</strong>.—Maître -d’Hôtel sauce is simply a lump of butter mixed with some -chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and lemon juice. -</p> - -<p> -Hot sauce is often called Maître d’Hôtel when chopped -blanched parsley and lemon juice is added to a little white -sauce. -</p> - -<p id="mangochutneysauce053"> -<strong>Mango Chutney Sauce</strong>.—Take a couple of tablespoonfuls -of Mango Chutney, moisten it with two or three tablespoonfuls of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, rub the whole through a wire -sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Or the chutney can be simply chopped -up fine and added to the <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> without -rubbing through the wire sieve. -</p> - -<p id="mayonnaisesauce053"> -<strong>Mayonnaise Sauce</strong>.—This is the most delicious of all cold -sauces. It is composed entirely of raw yolk of egg and oil, -flavoured with a dash of vinegar. When made properly it -should be of the consistency of butter in summer time. Many -women cooks labour under the delusion that it requires the -addition of cream. Mayonnaise sauce is made as follows:— -Break an egg and separate the yolk from the white, and place -the yolk at the bottom of a large basin. Next take a bottle of -oil, which must be cool but bright; if the oil is cloudy, as it -often is in cold weather, you cannot make the sauce. Nor can -you if the oil has been kept in a warm place. Now proceed to -let the oil drop, drop by drop, on the yolk of egg, and with a -silver fork, or still better, a wooden one, beat the yolk of egg and -oil quickly together. Continue to drop the oil, taking care that -only a few drops drop at a time, especially at starting, and continue -to beat the mixture lightly and quickly. Gradually the -yolk of egg and oil will begin to get thick, first of all like -custard. When this is the case a little more oil may be added -at a time, but never more than a teaspoonful. As more oil is -added, and the beating continues, the sauce gets thicker and -thicker, till it is nearly as thick as butter in summer time. -When it arrives at this stage no more oil should be added. A -little tarragon vinegar may be added at the finish, or a little -lemon juice. This makes the sauce whiter in colour. One yolk -of egg will take a teacupful of oil. It is best to add pepper -and salt when the salad is mixed. Mayonnaise sauce is by far -the best sauce for lettuce salad. It will keep a day, but should -be kept in a cool place, and the basin should be covered over -with a moist cloth. -</p> - -<p id="greenmayonnaisesauce054"> -<strong>Mayonnaise Sauce, Green</strong>.—Make some <a -href="#mayonnaisesauce053">mayonnaise sauce</a> -as above, and colour it with some spinach colouring (vegetable -colouring, sold in bottles by all grocers). -</p> - -<p id="mintsauce054"> -<strong>Mint Sauce</strong>.—Take plenty of fresh mint leaves, as the -secret of good mint sauce is to have plenty of mint. Chop up -sufficient mint to fill a teacup, put this at the bottom of a sauce -tureen, pour sufficient boiling water on the mint to thoroughly -moisten it, and add a tablespoonful of brown sugar, which dissolves -best when the water is hot. Press the mint with a tablespoon -to extract the flavour, let it stand till it is quite cold, -and then add three or four tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar, stir -it up, and the sauce is ready. The quantity of vinegar added -is purely a matter of taste, but a teaspoonful of chopped mint -floating in half a pint of vinegar is no more mint sauce than -dipping a mutton chop in a quart of boiling water would -be soup in ordinary cookery. -</p> - -<p id="mushroomsauce054"> -<strong>Mushroom Sauce, White</strong>.—Mushroom sauce can be made -from fresh mushrooms or tinned mushrooms. When made from fresh they must be -small button mushrooms, and not those that are black underneath. They must -be peeled, cut small, and have a little lemon juice squeezed over them to -prevent them turning colour, or they had still better be thrown into lemon -juice and water. They must now be fried in a frying-pan with a small -quantity of butter till they are tender, and then added to a little -thickened milk, or still better, cream. When made from tinned mushrooms, -simply chop up the mushrooms, reserving the liquor, then add a little cream -and thicken with a little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a>. A little -pepper and salt should be added in both cases. Instead of using either milk -or cream, you can use a small quantity of <a -href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a>. -</p> - -<p id="brownmushroomsauce055"> -<strong>Mushroom Sauce, Brown</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above with -regard to the mushrooms, both fresh and tinned, only instead of adding -milk, cream, or <a href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande sauce</a>, add a -little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and then thicken the sauce with a little <a -href="#roux022">brown roux</a>. -</p> - -<p id="mushroompureesauce055"> -<strong>Mushroom Sauce, Purée</strong>.—Mushroom sauce, both white -and brown, is sometimes served as a purée. It is simply -either of the above sauces rubbed through a wire sieve. -</p> - -<p id="mustardsauce055"> -<strong>Mustard Sauce</strong>.—Make, say, half a pint of good <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, add to this a tablespoonful of -French mustard and a tablespoonful of made English mustard. Stir this into -the sauce, make it hot, and serve. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—French mustard is sold ready-made in jars, and is -flavoured with tarragon, capers, ravigotte, &c. -</p> - -<p id="onionsauce055"> -<strong>Onion Sauce</strong>.—Take half a dozen large onions, peel -them and boil them in a little salted water till they are tender. Then take -them out and chop them up fine, and put them in a stew-pan with a little -milk. Thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour, or <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, and season with pepper and salt. A very -nice mild onion sauce is made by using Spanish onions. -</p> - -<p id="brownonionsauce055"> -<strong>Onion Sauce, Brown</strong>.—Slice up half a dozen good-sized -onions; put them in a frying-pan and fry them in a little butter till they -begin to get brown, but be careful not to burn them, and should there be a -few black pieces in the frying-pan, remove them; now chop up the onions, -not too finely, and put them in a saucepan with a very little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or -water, let them simmer till they are tender, and then thicken the sauce -with a little <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, and flavour with pepper -and salt. -</p> - -<p id="orangecreamsauce056"> -<strong>Orange Cream Sauce for Puddings</strong>.—Take a large ripe -orange and rub a dozen lumps of sugar on the outside of the rind and -dissolve these in a small quantity of <a href="#buttersauce046">butter -sauce</a>, and add the juice of the orange, strained. Now add a little -cream, or half a pint of milk that has been boiled separately, in which -case the sauce will want thickening with a little <a href="#roux022">white -roux</a>. Rubbing the sugar on the outside of the rind of the orange gives -a very strong orange flavour indeed—far more than the juice of almost -any number of oranges would produce, so care must be taken not to overdo -it. This is what French cooks call zest of orange. -</p> - -<p id="parsleysauce056"> -<strong>Parsley Sauce</strong>.—Blanch and chop up sufficient parsley -to make a brimming tablespoonful when chopped. Add this to half a pint of -<a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, with a little pepper, salt, and -lemon juice. It is very important to blanch the parsley, <em>i.e.</em>, throw it -into a little boiling water before chopping. -</p> - -<p id="pineapplesauce056"> -<strong>Pine-apple Sauce</strong>.—Take a pine-apple, peel it, cut it -up into little pieces on a dish, taking care not to lose any of -the juice, place it in a saucepan with a very little water, just -sufficient to cover the pine-apple; let it simmer gently until it -is tender, and then add sufficient white sugar to make the -liquid almost a syrup; a teaspoonful of corn-flour, made -smooth in a little cold water, can be added; but the sauce -should be of the consistency of syrup, and the corn-flour does -away with the difficulty of making it too sickly. The juice of -half a lemon may be added, and is, perhaps, an improvement. -</p> - -<p id="plumsauce056"> -<strong>Plum Sauce</strong>.—When made from ripe plums, take, say, a -pound, and place them in a stew-pan with a very little water -and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Take out the stones and -crack them. Throw the kernels into boiling water so that you -can rub off the skin, and add them to the sauce after you have -rubbed the stewed plums through a wire sieve. -</p> - -<p> -To make plum sauce from dried French plums proceed exactly as in making -Prune Sauce. (<em>See</em> <a href="#prunesauce057">PRUNE SAUCE</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="poivradesauce057"> -<strong>Poivrade Sauce</strong>.—Take an onion, a very small head of -celery, and a carrot, and cut them into little pieces, and put them into a -frying-pan with a little butter, a saltspoonful of thyme, one or two dried -bay-leaves, and about a quarter of a grated nutmeg and two or three sprigs -of parsley. Fry these till they turn a light-brown colour, then add a -little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Let this boil in -the frying-pan for about half an hour, till the liquid is reduced in -quantity. Thicken it with a little <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, and -rub it through a wire sieve, make it hot, and serve. If wine is allowed, -the addition of a little sherry is a great improvement to this sauce. -</p> - -<p id="prunesauce057"> -<strong>Prune Sauce</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pound of prunes, put -them in a stew-pan with just sufficient water to cover them, and -let them stew. Put in one or two strips of lemon-peel to stew with -them, add a teaspoonful of brown sugar, about sufficient -powdered cinnamon to cover a shilling, and the juice of half a -lemon. When the prunes are quite tender take out the strip -of lemon-peel and stones, rub the whole through a wire sieve, -and serve. -</p> - -<p id="radishsauce057"> -<strong>Radish Sauce</strong>.—Take a few bunches of radishes and grate -them, and mix this grated radish with a little oil, vinegar, -pepper, and salt. You can colour the sauce red by adding a -little beetroot, and make the sauce hot by adding a little grated -horse- radish. This cold sauce is exceedingly nice with cheese. -These <em>grated</em> radishes are more digestible than radishes served -whole. -</p> - -<p id="raspberrysauce057"> -<strong>Raspberry Sauce</strong>.—This sauce is simply stewed -raspberries rubbed through a wire sieve and sweetened. Some red-currant -juice should be added to give it a colour. It is very nice made hot and -then added to one or two beaten-up eggs and poured over any plain puddings, -such as <a href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a>, &c. -</p> - -<p id="ratafiasauce057"> -<strong>Ratafia Sauce</strong>.—Add a few drops of essence of ratafia -to some sweetened <a href="#arrowrootsauce045">arrowroot</a> or to some <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. The sauce can be coloured pink -with a few drops of cochineal. -</p> - -<p id="ravigottesauce057"> -<strong>Ravigotte Sauce</strong>.—Put a tablespoonful each of -Harvey’s sauce, tarragon vinegar, and chilli vinegar into a small -saucepan, and let it boil till it is reduced to almost one-half in -quantity, in order to get rid of the acidity. Now add about half a pint of -<a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, and throw in a tablespoonful of -chopped blanched parsley. -</p> - -<p id="robertsauce058"> -<strong>Robert Sauce</strong>.—Take a couple of onions, cut them up -into small pieces, and fry them with about an ounce of butter in a -frying-pan. Drain off the butter and add a couple of tablespoonfuls of -vinegar to the frying-pan, and let it simmer for ten minutes or a quarter -of an hour so as to get rid of the acidity of the vinegar. Now add a very -little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, stir it tip, and thicken the sauce with a little <a -href="#roux022">brown roux</a>. Add a dessertspoonful of fresh mustard and -a little pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="soubisesauce058"> -<strong>Soubise Sauce</strong>.—Sauce Soubise is simply white onion sauce, -rubbed through a wire sieve, and a little cream added. It is -more delicate than ordinary onion sauce, and is often served in -France with roast pheasant. It owes its name to a famous -French general. -</p> - -<p id="sorrelsauce058"> -<strong>Sorrel Sauce</strong>.—Put about a quart of fresh green sorrel -leaves (after being thoroughly washed) into an enamelled saucepan, -with a little fresh butter, and let the sorrel stew till it is -tender. Rub this through a wire sieve, add a little powdered -sugar and a little lemon juice; a little cream may be added, -but is not absolutely essential. -</p> - -<p id="sweetsauce058"> -<strong>Sweet Sauce</strong>.—Take half a pint of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, and -sweeten it with a little sugar. It can be flavoured by rubbing -a little sugar on the outside of a lemon, or with vanilla, essence -of almonds, or any kind of sweet essence. A little wine, -brandy, or, still better, rum, is a great improvement. Some -persons add cream. -</p> - -<p id="tarragonsauce058"> -<strong>Tarragon Sauce</strong>.—Blanch a dozen tarragon leaves, chop -them up, and stew them in any kind of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> thickened with -<a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>. -</p> - -<p id="tartarsauce058"> -<strong>Tartar Sauce</strong>.—Take two or three tablespoonfuls of <a -href="#mayonnaisesauce053">mayonnaise -sauce</a>, and add to this a brimming teaspoonful of chopped -blanched parsley, as well as a piece of onion or shallot about -as big as the top of the thumb down to the first joint, chopped -very fine, and a brimming teaspoonful of French mustard. -Mix the whole well together. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—A teaspoonful of anchovy sauce would be a great -improvement were anchovy sauce allowed in vegetarian -cookery. -</p> - -<p id="tomatosauce059"> -<strong>Tomato Sauce</strong>.—The great secret of tomato sauce is to -taste nothing but the tomato. Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, -cut off the stalks, and squeeze out the pips, and put them in a -stew-pan with a little butter, and let them stew till they are -tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. This, -in our opinion, is the best tomato sauce that can be made, the -only seasoning being a little pepper and salt. This wholesome -and delicious sauce can, however, be spoilt in a variety of -ways—by the addition of mace, cloves, shallots, onions, thyme, -&c. It can also be made very unwholesome by the addition of -a quantity of vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="trufflesauce059"> -<strong>Truffle Sauce</strong>.—This sauce is very expensive if made -from whole fresh truffles, but can be made more cheaply if you can obtain -some truffle chips or parings. These must be stewed in a little <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, -thickened with <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, and then rubbed through a -wire sieve, a little sherry being a great improvement if wine is allowed. -</p> - -<p id="vanillasauce059"> -<strong>Vanilla Sauce</strong>.—Add some essence of vanilla to some -sweetened <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. -</p> - -<p id="whitesauce059"> -<strong>White Sauce</strong>.—White sauce is sometimes required for -vegetables and sometimes for puddings. In the former case some -good-flavoured, uncoloured <a href="#stock021">stock</a> must be thickened with <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, and then have sufficient cream added to it -to make the sauce a pure white. -</p> - -<p> -When white sauce is wanted for puddings, sufficient butter -sauce must be sweetened, and very slightly flavoured with nutmeg -or almond, and then an equal quantity of cream added to -it to make it a pure white. White sauce should not have with -it any strong predominant flavour. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter3">CHAPTER III.</h2> - - <h3>SAVOURY RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL, &c.</h3> - - <h4 id="rice060">RICE.</h4> - - <p class="first"> - Probably all persons will admit that rice is a too much - neglected form of food in England. When we remember how - small a quantity of rice weekly is found sufficient to keep - alive millions and millions of our fellow-creatures in the East, - it seems to be a matter of regret that rice as an article of food - is not more used by the thousands and thousands of our fellow - creatures in the East—not in the ordinary acceptation of the - term, but East of Temple Bar. Rice is cheap, nourishing, - easily cooked, and equally easily digested, yet that monster, - custom, seems to step in and prevent the bulk of the poor - availing themselves of this light and nourishing food solely for - the reason that, as their grandfathers and grandmothers did - not eat rice before them, they do not see any reason why they - should, like the Irishman who objected to have his feet washed - on the same ground. Of the different kinds of rice Carolina is - the best, the largest, and the most expensive. Patna rice is - almost as good; the grains are long, small, and white, and it - is the best rice for curry. Madras rice is the cheapest. - </p> - - <p> - Rice, pure and simple, is the food most suited for hot climates and - where a natural indolence of disposition results in one’s - day’s work of an ordinary Englishman being divided among twenty - people. As we move towards more temperate zones it will be found the - universal custom to qualify it by mixing it with some other substance; - thus, though rice is largely eaten in Italy, it is almost invariably - used in conjunction with Parmesan cheese. Rice contains no - flesh-forming properties whatever, as it contains no nitrogen; and with - all due respect to vegetarians, it will be found that as we recede from - the Equator and advance towards the Poles our food must of necessity - vary with the latitude, and, whereas we may start on a diet of rice, we - shall be forced, sooner or later, to depend upon a diet of pemmican, or - food of a similar nature. - </p> - - <p id="boiledrice061"> - <strong>Rice, to Boil.</strong>—The best method of boiling rice - is, at any rate, a much disputed point, if not an open question. There - are as many ways almost of boiling rice as dressing a salad, and each - one thinks his own way the best. We will mention a few of the most - simple, and will illustrate it by boiling a small quantity that can be - contained in a teacup. Of course, boiling rice is very much simplified - if you want some rice-water as well as rice itself. Rice-water contains - a great deal of nourishment, a fact which is well illustrated by the - well-known story of the black troops who served in India under Clive, - who, at the siege of Arcot, told Clive, when they were short of - provisions, that the water in which the rice was boiled would be - sufficient for them, while the more substantial grain could be - preserved for the European troops. Take a teacupful of rice and wash - the rice in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Now - throw the rice into boiling water, say a quart; let the rice boil - gently till it is tender, strain off the rice and reserve the - rice-water for other purposes. The time rice will take to boil treated - this way would be probably about twenty minutes, but this time would - vary slightly with the quality and size of the rice. - </p> - - <hr /> - -<p> -Many years ago we watched a black man boiling rice on -board a P. and O. boat (the <em>Mizapore</em>); he proceeded as -follows:—He boiled the rice for about ten minutes, or perhaps -a minute or two longer, strained it off in a sieve, and then -washed the rice with cold water, and then put the rice back -in the stew-pan to once more get hot and swell. Of course, -this rice was being boiled for curry, and certainly the result -was that each grain was beautifully separated from every -other grain. We do not think, however, that this method -of boiling rice is customary on all the boats of the P. and O. -Company. Of course this method of boiling rice was somewhat -wasteful. -</p> - -<p> -By far the most economical method of boiling rice is as -follows; and we would recommend it to all who are in the -habit of practising economy on the grounds of either duty or -necessity. Wash thoroughly, as before, a teacupful of rice and -put it in a small stew-pan or saucepan with two breakfastcupfuls -of water, bring this to a boil and let it boil for ten -minutes, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and -let the rice soak and swell for about twenty minutes. After a -little time, you can put a cloth on the top of the saucepan to -absorb the steam, similar to the way you treat potatoes after -having strained off the water. -</p> - -<p> -In boiling rice we must remember that there are two ways -in which rice is served. One is as a meal in itself, the other -as an accompaniment to some other kind of food. It will be -found in Italy and Turkey and in the East generally, where -rice forms, so to speak, the staff of life, that it is not cooked -so soft and tender as it is in England, where it is generally -served with something else. In fact, each grain of rice may be -said to resemble an Irish potato, inasmuch as it has a heart in -it. In Ireland potatoes, as a rule, are not cooked so much -as they are in most parts of England. Probably the reason of -this is, in most cases, that experience has taught people that -there is more stay in rice and potatoes when served in a state -that English people would call “under-done.” There is no -doubt that the waste throughout the length and breadth of this -prosperous land through over-cooking is something appalling. -</p> - -<p> -Another very good method of boiling rice is the American -style. Take a good-sized stew-pan or saucepan that has a tight-fitting -lid. Put a cloth over the saucepan, after first pouring -in, say, a pint of water; push down the cloth, keeping it tight, -so as to make a well, but do not let the cloth reach the water; -wash the rice as before, and put on the lid tight. Of course, -with the cloth the lid will fit very tight indeed. Now put the -saucepan on the fire and make the water boil continuously. -By these means you steam the rice till it is tender and lose -none of the nourishment. We can always learn from America. -</p> - -<p id="risotto062"> -<strong>Risotto à la Milannaise.</strong>—Take a teacupful of -rice, wash it thoroughly and dry it. Chop up a small onion and put it in -the bottom of a small stew-pan and fry the onion to a light-brown colour. -Now add the dry rice, and stir this up with the onion and butter till the -rice also is fried of a nice light-brown colour. Now add two -breakfastcupfuls of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water and a pinch of -powdered saffron, about sufficient to cover a threepenny-piece; let the -rice boil for ten or eleven minutes, move the saucepan to the side of the -fire and let it stand for twenty minutes or half an hour till it has -absorbed all the stock or water. Now mix in a couple of tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese. Flavour with a little pepper and salt, and serve -the whole very hot. -</p> - -<p id="riceandcabbage063"> -<strong>Rice with Cabbage and Cheese.</strong>—Wash some rice and let -it soak in some hot water, with a cabbage sliced up, for about -an hour; then strain it off and put the rice and cabbage in -a stew-pan with some butter, a little pepper and salt, and -about a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Toss these about in -the butter for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour over the -fire, but do not let them turn colour; then add a small -quantity of water or <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, let it stew till it is tender, and -then serve it very hot with some grated cheese sprinkled -over the top. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—The end of cheese rind can be utilised with this dish. -</p> - -<p id="riceandcheese063"> -<strong>Rice with Cheese.</strong>—Wash some rice and then boil it for -ten or eleven minutes in some milk, and let it stand till it -has soaked up all the milk. The proportion generally is, -as we have said before, a teacupful of rice to two breakfastcupfuls -of milk; but as we shall want the rice rather moist -on the present occasion, we must allow a little more milk. -Now mix in some grated cheese and a little pepper and salt, -place the mixture in a pie-dish, and cover the top with grated -cheese, and place the pie-dish in the oven and bake till the -top is nicely browned, and then serve. -</p> - -<p> -Some cooks add a good spoonful of made mustard to the -mixture. Some persons prefer it and some don’t; it is therefore -best to serve some made mustard with the rice and -cheese at table. Unless the mixture was fairly moist before -it was put into the pie-dish, it would dry up in the oven -and become uneatable. -</p> - -<p id="curriedrice063"> -<strong>Rice, Curried.</strong>—Boil a teacupful of well-washed rice -in two breakfastcupfuls of water, and let the rice absorb all the water; -put a cloth in the saucepan, and stir up the rice occasionally with a fork -till the grains become dry and separate easily the one from the other. Now -mix it up with some <a href="#currysauce050">curry sauce</a>, make the -whole hot, and send it to table with a few whole bay-leaves mixed in with -the rice. Only sufficient curry sauce should be added to moisten the -rice—it must not be rice swimming in gravy; or you can make a well in -the middle of the <a href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a> and pour the -curry sauce into this. -</p> - -<p id="riceborder064"> -<strong>Rice Borders (Casseroles).</strong>—Casseroles, or rice borders, -form a very handsome dish. It consists of a large border -made of rice, the outside of which can be ornamented -and the centre of which can be filled with a macedoine -(<em>i.e.</em>, a mixture) of fruit or vegetables. As you are probably -aware, grocers have in their shop-windows small tins with -copper labels, on which the word is printed “Macedoine.” -This tin contains a mixture of cut-up, cooked vegetables. -These are very useful to have in the house, as a nice dish -can be served at a few moments’ notice. Mixed fruits are -also sold in bottles under the name of Macedoine of Fruits. -Of course, both vegetables and fruit can be prepared at home -much cheaper from fresh fruit and vegetables, but this requires -time and forethought. These mixtures are very much -improved in appearance when served in a handsomely made -rice border, and as the border is eaten with the vegetables -and fruit there is no want of economy in the recipe. Suppose -we are going to make a rice border. Take a pound of rice and -wash it carefully if we are going to fill it with fruit we -must boil it in sweetened milk, but if we are going to fill -it with vegetables we must boil it in vegetable <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or -water. Add, as the case may be, sufficient liquid to boil -the rice till it is thoroughly tender and soft. Now place it -in a large bowl, and with a wooden spoon mash it till it -becomes a sort of firm, compact paste; then take it out and -roll it into the shape of a cannon-ball, and having done -this, flatten it till it becomes of the shape of the cheeses one -meets with in Holland—flat top and bottom, with rounded -edges. You can now ornament the outside by making it -resemble a fluted mould of jelly. The best way of doing this -is to cut a carrot in half and scoop out part of the inside -with a cheese-scoop, so that the width of the part where it -is scooped is about the same as the two flat sides. Make -the outside of the rice perfectly smooth with the back -of a wooden spoon. Butter the carrot mould to prevent it -sticking, and press this gently on the outside of the shape -of rice till it resembles the outside of a column in Gothic -architecture, then place it in the oven and let it bake till -it is firm and dry. Then scoop out the centre and put it -back for a short time. If the border is going to be used for a -macedoine of vegetables, beat up a yolk of egg and paint the -outside of the casserole with this, and then it will bake a nice -golden-brown colour. Now take it out of the oven and fill it -accordingly. It can be served hot or cold, or it can be filled -with a German salad. (<em>See</em> MACEDOINE OF FRUIT; <a -href="#macedoines155">MACEDOINE -OF VEGETABLES</a>; <a href="#germansalad100">SALAD, GERMAN</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="ricecroquettes065"> -<strong>Rice Croquettes, Savoury.</strong>—Boil a teacupful of rice -in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water (about two -breakfastcupfuls), till it is tender, and until the rice has absorbed all -the water or stock. Chop up a small onion very fine, fry it till tender in -a very little butter, but do not let it brown; add a small teaspoonful of -mixed savoury herbs, a brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley, to the -contents of the frying-pan for two or three minutes, and then add them to -the rice. Mix it well together, and let the rice dry in the oven till the -mixture is capable of being rolled into balls. Now take two eggs, separate -the yolk from the white of one, beat up the whole egg and one white -thoroughly in a basin, but do no beat it to a froth; add the rice mixture -to this, mix it again very thoroughly, and then roll it into balls about -the size of a small walnut, seasoning the mixture with sufficient pepper -and salt. Roll these balls in flour, in order to insure the outside being -dry, and roll them backwards and forwards on the sieve in order to get rid -of the superfluous flour. Make some very fine bread-crumbs from some stale -bread; next beat up the yolk of egg with about a dessertspoonful of warm -water. Dip the rice-balls into this, and then cover them with the -bread-crumbs. Let them stand for an hour or two for the bread-crumbs to get -dry, and then fry them a light golden-brown colour in a little oil. Fried -parsley can be served with them. -</p> - -<p> -Instead of bread-crumbs you can use up broken vermicelli—the -bottom of a jar of vermicelli can sometimes be utilised -this way. This has a very pretty appearance. The vermicelli -browns quickly, and the croquettes have the appearance of little -balls covered in brown network. -</p> - -<p id="savouryrice066"> -<strong>Rice, Savoury.</strong>—There are several ways of serving -savoury rice. The rice can be boiled in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, -strongly flavoured with onion and celery, and when cooked sufficiently -tender one or two eggs can be beaten up with it, pepper and salt added, and -the mixture served with grated cheese. -</p> - -<p> -Rice can also be rendered savoury by the addition of chopped mushrooms, -pepper and salt, and a little butter, and if a tin of mushrooms is used, -the liquor in the tin should be added to the <a -href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a>, but in every case the rice should be -made to absorb the liquor in which it is boiled. Eggs can again be added, -as well as grated Parmesan cheese. -</p> - -<p> -A cheap and quick way of making rice savoury is to mix it -with a large tablespoonful of chutney; make it hot with a -little butter, and add pepper—cayenne if preferred—and a -little lemon-juice. -</p> - -<p> -Rice can also be served as savoury by boiling it in any of the sauces that -may be termed savoury in distinction to those that are sweet, given in the -chapter entitled “<a href="#sauces044">Sauces</a>.” -</p> - -<p id="riceandeggs066"> -<strong>Rice and Eggs.</strong>—Boil, say half a pound of rice, and -let it absorb the water in which it is boiled. Take four hard-boiled eggs, -separate the yolks from the whites, chop the whites very fine, and add them -to the rice with about a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley -and sufficient savoury herbs to cover a sixpence. Put this in the saucepan -and make it hot, with a little butter, and flavour with plenty of pepper -and salt. In the meantime beat the yellow hard-boiled yolks to a yellow -powder, turn out the rice mixture, when thoroughly hot, into a vegetable -dish, and put the yellow powder either in the centre or make a ring of the -yellow powder round the edge of the rice, and serve a little pile of fried -parsley in the middle. -</p> - -<p id="riceandtomatoes066"> -<strong>Rice and Tomato.</strong>—Take half-a-dozen ripe tomatoes, -squeeze out the pips, and put them in a tin in the oven with a little -butter to bake; baste them occasionally with a little butter. In the -meantime boil half a pound of rice in a little <a -href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, only adding sufficient so that the -rice can absorb the liquid. When this is done (and this will take about the -same time as the tomatoes take to bake), pour all the liquid and butter in -the tin on to the rice and stir it well up with some pepper and salt. Put -this on a dish, and serve the tomatoes on the rice with the red, unbroken -side uppermost. -</p> - -<p id="macaroni067"> -<strong>Macaroni.</strong>—Macaroni is a preparation of pure wheaten -flour. It is chiefly made in Italy, though a good deal is made in Geneva -and Switzerland. The best macaroni is made in the neighbourhood of Naples. -The wheat that grows there ripens quickly under the pure blue sky and hot -sun, and consequently the outside of the wheat is browner while the inside -of the wheat is whiter than that grown in England. The wheat is ground and -sifted repeatedly. It is generally sifted about five times, and the pure -snow-white flour that falls from the last sifting is made into macaroni. It -is first mixed with water and made into a sort of dough, the dough being -kneaded in the truly orthodox Eastern style by being trodden out with the -feet. It is then forced by a sort of rough machinery through holes, -partially baked during the process, and then hung up to dry. Macaroni -contains a great amount of nourishment, and it is only made from the purest -and finest flour. It is the staple dish throughout Italy, and in whatever -form or way it is cooked, except as a sweet, tomatoes and grated Parmesan -cheese seem bound to accompany it. -</p> - -<p id="sparghetti067"> -<strong>Sparghetti.</strong>—Sparghetti is a peculiar form of macaroni. -Ordinary macaroni is made in the form of long tubes, and -when macaroni pudding is served in schools, it is often -irreverently nicknamed by the boys gas-pipes. Sparghetti -is not a tube, but simply macaroni made in the shape of -ordinary wax-tapers, which it resembles very much in appearance. -In Italy it is often customary to commence -dinner with a dish of sparghetti, and should the dinner -consist as well of soup, fish, entrée, salad, and sweet, the -sparghetti would be served before the soup. Take, say, half a -pound of sparghetti, wash it in cold water, and throw it -instantly into boiling salted water; boil it till it is tender, -about twenty minutes, drain it, put it into a hot vegetable-dish, -and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated -Parmesan cheese; toss it about lightly with a couple of forks, -till the cheese melts and forms what may be called cobwebs -on tossing it about. Add also two tablespoonfuls of tomato -conserve (sold by all grocers, in bottles), and serve immediately. -This is very cheap, very satisfying, and very nourishing; and it -is to be regretted that this popular dish is not more often used -by those who are not vegetarians, who would benefit both in -pocket and in health were they to lessen their butcher’s bill by -at any rate commencing dinner, like the Italians, with a dish -of sparghetti. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniitalianfashion068"> -<strong>Macaroni—Italian Fashion.</strong>—This is very similar to -sparghetti, only ordinary pipe macaroni is used. Take, say, a -teacupful of macaroni, wash it, break it up into two-inch -pieces, and throw it into boiling water that has been salted. -Strain it of off, put it in the stew-pan for a few minutes, with -a little piece of butter and some pepper and salt. Add a tablespoonful -of tomato conserve, and serve it with some grated -Parmesan cheese, served separate in a dish. -</p> - -<p> -Some rub the stew-pan with a head of garlic. This gives it -what may be called a more foreign flavour, but this should not -be done unless you know your guests like garlic. Unfortunately, -the proper use of garlic is very little understood in this -country. -</p> - -<p id="macaronicheese068"> -<strong>Macaroni Cheese.</strong>—Some years back this was almost the only -form in which macaroni was served in this country. Macaroni -cheese used to be served at the finish of dinner in a dried-up -state, and was perhaps one of the most indigestible dishes -which the skill, or want of skill, of our English cooks was -able to produce. Wash and then boil a quarter of a pound -of macaroni in a little milk till it is quite tender, then -put into a well-buttered oval tin a layer of macaroni, and cover -this with a layer of bread-crumbs, mixed with grated cheese, -and add a few little lumps of butter; then put another layer of -macaroni and another layer of bread-crumbs and cheese. -Continue alternate layers till you pile up the dish, taking care -to have a layer of dried bread-crumbs at the top. Warm some -butter, but do not oil it, and pour some of this warm butter -over the top of the dish to moisten them; put the dish in the -oven till it is hot through, then take it out and brown the top -quickly with a red-hot salamander. If you leave the macaroni -cheese in the oven too long the dish will taste oily and the -cheese get so hard as to become absolutely indigestible. Any -kind of grated cheese will do for this dish, but to the English -palate it is best when made from a moist cheese similar to that -which would be used in making Welsh rabbit. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniandeggs069"> -<strong>Macaroni and Eggs.</strong>—Take half a pound of macaroni and -throw it into boiling water that has been salted. In the meantime have -ready four hard-boiled eggs. When the macaroni is nearly tender throw the -hard-boiled eggs into cold water for a minute, in order to enable you to -take off the shells without burning your fingers. Cut the eggs in half, -take out the half yellow yolk without breaking it; cut the whites of the -eggs into rings and mix these rings with the macaroni on the dish. The -macaroni and eggs must be flavoured with pepper and salt, and if possible -pour a little <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> over the whole. If -you have no white sauce add a little cream or a little thickened milk with -a little butter dissolved in it; now sprinkle a little chopped blanched -parsley over the whole and ornament the dish with the eight half-yolks. -</p> - -<p id="macaronialareine069"> -<strong>Macaroni à la Reine.</strong>—Boil half a pound of pipe -macaroni. Meanwhile warm slowly in a saucepan three-quarters -of a pint of cream, and slice into it half a pound of -Stilton or other white cheese, add two ounces of good fresh -butter, two blades of mace, pounded, a good pinch of cayenne -and a little salt. Stir until the cheese is melted and the whole -is free from lumps, when put in the macaroni and move it -gently round the pan until mixed and hot, or put the macaroni -on a hot dish and pour the sauce over. It may be covered -with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour and browned in a Dutch -oven. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniaugratin069"> -<strong>Macaroni au Gratin.</strong>—Break up a pound of macaroni in -three-inch lengths, boil as usual and drain. Put into a stew-pan a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter, the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and -Gruyère cheese mixed, and about a quarter of a pint of some good -sauce, <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>. Move the stew-pan and its -contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the butter, etc., -then turn it out on a dish, which should be garnished with croutons of -fried bread. Pile it in the shape of a dome, cover with bread-raspings, a -little clarified butter run through a colander, and brown very lightly with -a salamander. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—The above two recipes are taken from “Cassell’s -Dictionary of Cookery.” -</p> - -<p id="macaroniasanornament070"> -<strong>Macaroni as an Ornament.</strong>—Macaroni is sometimes used -to ornament the outside of puddings, either savoury or sweet. -Suppose the pudding has to be made in a small round mould -or basin. Some pipe macaroni is boiled in water till it is -tender, and then cut up into little pieces a quarter of an inch in -length. The inside of the mould is first thickly buttered, and -then these little quarter-inch tubes are stuck in the butter close -together; the pudding, for instance a custard pudding, is then -poured into the mould and the mould steamed. When the -pudding is turned out the outside of the pudding has the -appearance of a honey-comb, and looks extremely pretty. The -process is not difficult, but rather troublesome, as it requires -time and patience. -</p> - -<p id="timbaleofmacaroni070"> -<strong>Macaroni, Timbale of.</strong>—This is a somewhat expensive -dish. You have first to decorate a plain mould with what is -called <em>nouilles</em> paste, which is made by mixing half a pound -of flour with five yolks of eggs. The mould is then lined with -ordinary short paste, made with half a pound of flour, a quarter -of a pound of butter, and one yolk of egg, mixed in the -ordinary way. When the mould is lined, you have to fill it -up with flour, and bake it in a moderate oven for about an -hour. You then take it out, empty out the flour and brush it -well out with an ordinary brush and dry the mould in a very -slack oven. The mould is then filled with some macaroni that -has been boiled tender in milk and flavoured with vanilla and -sugar and Parmesan cheese. The macaroni must be so managed -that it absorbs the moisture. The mould is filled, made hot, -and then turned out. It is customary to shake some powdered -sugar over the mould, and then glaze it with a red-hot -salamander. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—Very few kitchens possess a proper salamander, -but if you make the kitchen shovel red-hot it will be found -to answer the same purpose. -</p> - -<p id="scollopedmacaroni070"> -<strong>Macaroni in Scollop Shells.</strong>—Take half a pound of -macaroni, wash it, and throw it into boiling water. Take the macaroni out, -drain it, and throw it into cold water. Then take it out and cut it into -pieces not more than half an inch in length. Take about a quarter of a -pound of butter, melt it in a stew-pan, and add about a cupful of milk, or -still better, cream. Stir it and dredge in enough flour to make it thick, -or still better, thicken it with a little <a href="#roux022">white -roux</a>; now add some pepper and salt, about a quarter of a grated nutmeg, -two or three spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; add the cut-up macaroni -and stir the whole well up over the fire together and fill the scollop -shells with the mixture, and throw some grated cheese over the top. Bake -the scollops in the oven till the cheese begins to brown; then pour a -little oiled butter over the top of the cheese. If made with cream this -dish is somewhat rich, but forms an admirable meal eaten with plenty of -bread. -</p> - -<p id="macaroninudels071"> -<strong>Macaroni Nudels.</strong>—The word nudel is probably derived -from French <em>nouilles</em> paste. It is made in a similar manner, or -nearly so. French cooks use only yolk of egg and flour. English cooks use -beaten-up eggs, and sometimes even reserve the yolks for other purposes and -make the paste with white of egg. In any case, the yolks, the whole eggs, -or the white without the yolks, must be well beaten up and then mixed in -with the flour with the fingers till it makes a stiff paste. This paste or -dough is then rolled out with a straight rolling pin—(not an English -one)—till it is as thin as a wafer. The board must be well floured or -it will stick. A marble slab is best, and if you are at a loss for a -rolling-pin try an empty black bottle. It is very important to roll the -pastry thin, and it has been well observed that the best test of thinness -is to be able to read a book through the paste. When rolled out, let each -thin cake dry for five or ten minutes. If you have a box of cutters you can -cut this paste into all sorts of shapes according to the shape of the -cutters, or you can cut each thin cake into pieces about the same size, and -then with a sharp dry knife cut the paste into threads. These threads or -ornamental shapes can be thrown into boiling <a href="#clearsoup030">clear -soup</a>, when they will separate of their own accord. Nudel paste is, in -fact, home-made Italian paste, or, when cut into threads, home-made -vermicelli. It is very nourishing, as it is made with eggs and flour. -</p> - -<p id="savourymacaroni072"> -<strong>Macaroni, Savoury.</strong>—Take half a pound of macaroni and -boil it in some slightly salted water, and let it boil and simmer -till the macaroni is tender and absorbs all the water in which -it is boiled. Now take a dessertspoonful of raw mustard, <em>i.e.</em>, -mustard in the yellow powder. Mix this gradually with the -macaroni, and add five or six tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan -cheese and a little cayenne or white pepper according to taste. -Turn the mixture out on to a dish, sprinkle some more grated -Parmesan cheese over the top, bake it in the oven till it -is slightly brown, pour a little oiled butter on the top, and -serve. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniandchestnuts072"> -<strong>Macaroni and Chestnuts.</strong>—Bake about twenty chestnuts -till they are tender, and then peel them and pound them in a mortar, with a -little pepper and salt and butter, till they are a paste. Next wash and -boil in the ordinary way half a pound of macaroni. Drain off the macaroni -and put it in a stew-pan with the chestnuts and about a couple of ounces of -butter to moisten it, and stir it all together and put an onion in to -flavour it as if you were making <a href="#breadsauce045">bread sauce</a>; -but the onion must be taken out whole before it is served. If the mixture -gets too dry, it can be moistened with a little milk or <a href="#stock021">stock</a>. After it has -been stirred together for about a quarter of an hour, turn it out on to a -dish, cover it with a little Parmesan cheese, bake in the oven till it is -brown, and moisten the top when browned with a little oiled butter. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniandtomatoes072"> -<strong>Macaroni and Tomatoes.</strong>—Take half a pound of macaroni; -wash it and boil it until it is tender. In the meantime take -half a dozen or more ripe tomatoes; cut off the stalks, squeeze -out the pips, and place them in a tin in the oven with a little -butter to prevent their sticking. It is as well to baste the -tomatoes once or twice with the butter and the juice that will -come from them. Put the macaroni when tender and well -drained off into a vegetable-dish, pour the contents of the -tin, butter and juice, over the macaroni and add pepper and -salt, and toss it lightly together. Now place the whole tomatoes -on the top of the macaroni, round the edge, at equal distances. -It is a great improvement to the appearance of the dish to -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the macaroni. -The tomatoes should be placed with the smooth, red, unbroken -side uppermost. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniandcream073"> -<strong>Macaroni and Cream</strong>.—Boil half a pound of macaroni; -cut it up into pieces about two inches long and put it into a -stew-pan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound -of grated cheese, composed of equal parts of Gruyère and -Parmesan cheese. Moisten this with about three tablespoonfuls -of cream. Toss it all lightly together till the cheese makes -cobwebs. Add a little pepper and salt and serve with some -fried bread round the edge cut up into ornamental shapes. -Carefully made pieces of toast, cut into triangles, will do instead -of the fried bread. -</p> - -<p id="tagliatelli073"> -<strong>Tagliatelli</strong>.—Take some flour and water, and with the -addition of a little salt make a paste which can be rolled out -quite thin; cut this into shapes of the breadth of half a -finger. Throw them into boiling water and let them boil a -few minutes. Then remove them to cold water; drain them -on a sieve and use them as macaroni; place at the bottom of -a dish some butter and grated cheese, then a layer of <em>tagliatelli</em> -seasoned with pepper, another layer of butter and cheese, and -then one of <em>tagliatelli</em>, until the whole is used; pour over it -a glass of cream, add a layer of cheese, and finish like -<a href="#macaronicheese068">macaroni cheese</a>, browning it in the oven. -</p> - -<p id="oatmealporridge073"> -<strong>Oatmeal Porridge</strong>.—Of all dishes used by vegetarians there -are none more wholesome, more nourishing, or more useful as -an article of everyday diet for breakfast than oatmeal porridge. -When we remember that the Scotch, who, for both body and -brain, rank perhaps first amongst civilised nations, almost live -on this cheap and agreeable form of food, we should take -particular pains in the preparation of a standing dish which is -in itself a strong argument in favour of a vegetarian diet when -we look at the results, both mentally and bodily, that have -followed its use North of the Tweed. The following excellent -recipe for the preparation of oatmeal porridge is taken from a -book entitled, “A Year’s Cookery,” by Phyllis Browne -(Cassell & Co.):—“When there are children in the family it is -a good plan, whatever they may have for breakfast, to let them -begin the meal either with oatmeal porridge or bread-and-milk. -Porridge is wholesome and nourishing, and will help to make -them strong and hearty. Even grown-up people frequently -enjoy a small portion of porridge served with treacle and milk. -Oatmeal is either ‘coarse,’ ‘medium,’ or ‘fine.’ Individual -taste must determine which of these three varieties shall be -chosen. Scotch people generally prefer the coarsest kind. The -ordinary way of making porridge is the following—Put as -much water as is likely to be required into a saucepan with a -sprinkling of salt, and let the water boil. Half a pint of -water will make a single plateful of porridge. Take a knife (a -‘spurtle’ is the proper utensil) in the right hand, and some -Scotch, or coarse, oatmeal in the left hand, and sprinkle the -meal in gradually, stirring it briskly all the time; if any lumps -form draw them to the side of the pan and crush them out. -When the porridge is sufficiently thick (the degree of thickness -must be regulated by individual taste), draw the pan back a -little, <em>put on the lid</em>, and let the contents simmer gently till -wanted; if it can have two hours’ simmering, all the better; but -in hundreds of families in Scotland and the North of England -it is served when it has boiled for ten minutes or a quarter of -an hour; less oatmeal is required when it can boil a long time, -because the simmering swells the oatmeal, and so makes it go -twice as far. During the boiling the porridge must be stirred -frequently to keep it from sticking to the saucepan and -burning, but each time this is done the lid must be put on again. -When it is done enough it should be poured into a basin or upon -a plate, and served hot with sugar or treacle and milk or cream. -The very best method that can be adopted for making porridge -is to soak the coarse Scotch oatmeal in water for <em>twelve hours</em>, -or more (if the porridge is wanted for breakfast it may be put -into a pie-dish over night, and left till morning). As soon as -the fire is lighted in the morning it should be placed on it, -stirred occasionally, kept covered, and boiled as long as possible, -although it may be served when it has boiled for twenty -minutes. When thus prepared it will be almost like a delicate -jelly, and acceptable to the most fastidious palate. The proportions -for porridge made in this way are a heaped tablespoonful -of coarse oatmeal to a pint of water. -</p> - -<p> -“It is scarcely necessary to give directions for making— -</p> - -<p id="breadandmilk075"> -“<strong>Bread and Milk,</strong> for everyone knows how this should be -done. It may be said that the preparation has a better appearance -if the bread is cut very small before the boiling milk is -poured on it, and also that the addition of a small pinch of salt -takes away the insipidity. Rigid economists sometimes swell -the bread with boiling water, then drain this off and pour milk -in its place. This, however, is almost a pity, for milk is so -very good for children; and though recklessness is seldom to -be recommended, a mother might well be advised to be reckless -about the amount of her milk bill, provided always that the -quantity of milk be not wasted, and that the children have it.” -</p> - -<p id="milkporridge075"> -<strong>Milk Porridge</strong>.—Take a tablespoonful of oatmeal and mix -it up in a cup with a little cold milk till it is quite smooth, in -a similar way as you would mix ordinary flour and milk in -making batter. Next put a pint of milk on to boil, and as -soon as it boils mix in the oatmeal and milk, and let it boil for -about a quarter of an hour, taking care to keep stirring it the -whole time. The fire should not be too fierce, as the milk -is very apt to burn. Flavour this with either salt or sugar. -</p> - -<p id="riceandbarleyporridge075"> -<strong>Rice and Barley Porridge</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pound of -rice and a quarter of a pound of Scotch barley and wash them -very thoroughly. The most perfect way of washing barley and rice -is to throw them into boiling water, let them boil for five -or ten minutes, and then strain them off. By this means the -dirty outside is dissolved. Next boil the rice and barley gently -for three or four hours, strain them off, and boil them up again -in a little milk for a short time before they are wanted. It will -often be found best to boil the barley for a couple of hours and -then add the rice. A little cream is a very great improvement. -The porridge can be flavoured with pepper and salt, but is very -nice with brown sugar, treacle, or jam, and when cold forms -an agreeable accompaniment to stewed fruit. -</p> - -<p id="wholemealporridge075"> -<strong>Whole-meal Porridge</strong>.—Boil a quart of water and gradually -stir in about half a pound of whole-meal; let it boil for about -a quarter of an hour, and serve. Cold milk should accompany -this porridge. -</p> - -<p id="lentilporridge075"> -<strong>Lentil Porridge</strong>.—To every quart of water add about six -tablespoonfuls of lentil flour; let the whole boil for about -a quarter of an hour, and flavour with pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="hominy076"> -<strong>Hominy</strong>.—Take a teacupful of hominy, wash it in -several waters and rub it well between the hands, and throw away the grains -that float on the top, the same as you do with split peas, pour the water -off the top, then strain it off, and put it in a basin with a quart of -water, and cover the basin over with a cloth; put it by to soak overnight, -should it be required for breakfast in the morning. The next day put it in -an enamelled stew-pan with about a teaspoonful of salt, and let it simmer -gently over the fire, taking care that it does not burn. It is best to -butter the bottom of the saucepan, or if you have a small plate that will -just go inside you will find this a great protection. Let it simmer gently -for rather more than an hour. Stir it well up and flavour it with either -sugar or salt, and let it be eaten with cold milk poured on it on the -plate, or with a little butter. -</p> - -<p> -The hominy should simmer until it absorbs all the water -in which it is boiled. As a rule a good teacupful will absorb -a quart. -</p> - -<p id="friedhominy076"> -<strong>Hominy, Fried</strong>.—This is made from the remains of cold -boiled hominy. When cold it will be a firm jelly. Cut the -cold hominy into slices, flour them, egg and bread-crumb them, -and then plunge them into some smoking hot oil till they are -of a nice bright golden colour. They are very nice eaten with -lemon-juice and sugar, or they can be served with orange -marmalade. -</p> - -<p id="frumenty076"> -<strong>Frumenty</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pint of wheat, wash it -thoroughly, and let it soak for twelve hours or more in water. -Strain it off and boil it in some milk till it is tender, but do -not let it get pulpy. As soon as it is tender add a quart of -milk, flavoured with a little cinnamon, three ounces of sugar, -three ounces of carefully washed grocer’s currants, and let it -boil for a quarter of an hour. Beat up three yolks of eggs -in a tureen, and gradually add the mixture. It must not be -added to the eggs in a boiling state or else they will curdle. -A wineglassful of brandy is a great improvement, but is not -absolutely necessary. The wheat takes a long time to get -tender, probably four hours. -</p> - -<p id="sagoporridge077"> -<strong>Sago Porridge</strong>.—Wash the sago in cold water and boil it -in some water, allowing about two tablespoonfuls to every -pint; add pepper and salt and let cold milk be served with the -porridge. -</p> - -<p id="milktoast077"> -<strong>Milk Toast</strong>.—This is a very useful way of using up stale -bread. Toast the bread a light brown, and if by chance any -part gets black scrape it gently off. Butter the toast slightly, -lay the toast on the bottom of a soup-plate, and pour some -boiling milk over it. Very little butter should be used, and -children often prefer a thin layer of marmalade to butter. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - <h2 id="chapter4">CHAPTER IV.</h2> - - <h3>EGGS (SAVOURY) AND OMELETS.</h3> - - <p id="boiledeggs078"> -<strong>Eggs, Plain Boiled</strong>.—There is an old saying that there is -reason in the roasting of eggs. This certainly applies equally -to the more common process of boiling them. There are few -breakfast delicacies more popular than a new-laid egg. There -are few breakfast indelicacies more revolting than the doubtful -egg which makes its appearance from time to time, and which -may be classed under the general heading of “Shop ’uns.” It -is a sad and melancholy reflection that these more than doubtful -“shop ’uns” were all <em>once</em> new-laid. It is impossible to draw -any hard-and-fast line to say at what exact period an egg -ceases to be fit for boiling. There is an old tradition, the truth -of which we do not endorse, that eggs may arrive at a period -when, though they are not fit to be boiled, fried, poached, or -hard-boiled, they are still good enough for puddings and -pastry. There is no doubt that many good puddings are spoilt -because cooks imagine they can use up doubtful eggs. -</p> - -<p> -When eggs are more than doubtful, they are often bought -up by the smaller pastry-cooks in cheap and poor neighbourhoods -of our large towns, such as the East-End of London. -These eggs are called “spot eggs,” and are sold at thirty and -forty a shilling. They utilise them as follows: They hold the -egg up in front of a bright gas-light, when the small black -spot can be clearly seen. This black spot is kept at the lowest -point of the egg, <em>i.e.</em>, the egg is held so that this black spot is -at the bottom. The upper part of the egg is then broken and -poured off, the black spot being retained. The moment the -smallest streak proceeds from this black spot the pouring-off -process is stopped. Of course, the black part is all thrown -away, the stench from it being almost intolerable, containing, -as it does, sulphuretted hydrogen. We mention the fact for -what it is worth. It would be a bold man who tried to lay -down any law as to where waste ceases and the use of wrongful -material commences. Everything depends upon the circumstances -of the case in question. We fear there are many -thousands, hundreds of thousands, in this great city of London, -whose everyday life more or less compares with that of a -shipwrecked crew. They “fain would fill their belly with the -husks that the swine do eat, but no man gives unto them.” -There is this to be said in favour of vegetarian diet—that, -were it universal, grinding poverty would be banished from -the earth. We must not cry out too soon about using what -some men call bad material. Lord Byron, when he was starving -after shipwreck, was glad to make a meal off the paws of his -favourite dog, which had been thrown away when the carcase -had been used on a former occasion. -</p> - -<p> -The simplest way of boiling eggs is to place them at starting -in boiling water, and boil them from three to three and a -half to four minutes, according to whether they are liked -very lightly boiled, medium, or well-set. -</p> - -<p> -The egg saucepan should be small, so that when the eggs -are first plunged in it takes the water off the boil for a few -seconds, otherwise the eggs are likely to crack. This applies -more particularly to French eggs, which have thin, brittle -shells containing an excess of lime, probably due to the -large quantity of chalk which is the distinguishing feature -of the soil in the <em>Pas de Calais</em>, which is the chief neighbourhood -from which French eggs are imported. -</p> - -<p> -<em>Over a million</em> eggs are imported from France to England -every day, notwithstanding the fact that thousands are kept -awake by the crying of their neighbours’ fowls. -</p> - -<p> -There is a strange delusion among Londoners that an egg -is not good if it is milky. This, of course, is never met with -in London, for the simple reason that a milky egg means, as a -rule, than it has not been laid more than a few hours. For this -reason eggs literally hot from the nest are not suitable for -making puddings or even omelets. Eggs that have been kept -one or two days will be found to answer better, as they possess -more binding properties. -</p> - -<p> -There is an old-fashioned idea that the best way to boil an -egg is to place it in the saucepan in cold water, to put the -saucepan on the fire, and as soon as the water boils the egg is -done. A very little reflection will show that this entirely -depends upon the size of the saucepan and the fierceness of the -fire. If the saucepan were the size of the egg, the water would -boil before the egg was hot through; on the other hand, no -one could place an egg in the copper on this principle and then -light the copper fire. -</p> - -<p> -Eggs are best boiled in the dining-room on the fire, or in -an ornamental egg-boiler. By this means we get the eggs <em>hot</em>, -an occurrence almost unknown in large hotels and big establishments. -</p> - -<p id="tobreakeggs080"> -<strong>Eggs, To Break.</strong>—Whenever you break eggs, never mind -what quantity, always break each egg separately into a cup -first; see that it is good, and then throw it into a basin with -the rest. One bad egg would spoil fifty. Supposing you -have a dozen or two dozen new-laid eggs just taken from the -nest, it is not an uncommon thing to have one that has been -overlooked for weeks, and which may be a half-hatched mass -of putrefaction. -</p> - -<p id="friedeggs080"> -<strong>Eggs, Fried.</strong>—The first point is to have a clean frying-pan, -which is an article of kitchen furniture very rarely indeed met -with in this country. For frying eggs, and for making omelets, -it is essential that the frying-pan should never be used for -other purposes. -</p> - -<p> -If you think <em>your</em> frying-pan is perfectly clean, warm it in -front of the fire for half a minute, put a clean white cloth -over the top of the finger, and then rub the inside of the -frying-pan. -</p> - -<p> -To fry eggs properly, very little butter will be required; a -little olive-oil will answer the same purpose. If you have too -much “fat,” the white of the eggs are apt to develop into big -bubbles or blisters. Another point is, you do not want too -fierce a fire. Fry them very slowly. Some cooks will almost -burn the bottom of the egg before the upper part is set. As -soon as the white is set round the edge, you will often find the -yolk not set at all, surrounded by a rim of semi-transparent -“albumen.” When this is the case, it is very often a good -plan to take the frying-pan off the fire (we are presuming the -stove is a shut-up one), and place it in the oven for a minute -or so, leaving the oven door open. By this means the heat of -the oven will set the upper part of the eggs, and there is no -danger of the bottom part being burnt. -</p> - -<p> -There is a great art in taking fried eggs out of a frying-pan -and serving them on a dish. Fried eggs, to look nice, -should have the yolk in the centre, surrounded by a ring of -white, perfectly round, rather more than an inch in breadth. -</p> - -<p> -Take an egg-slice in the left hand, slide it under each -egg separately, so that the yolk gets well into the middle of -the slice. Now take a knife in the right hand and trim off -the superfluous white. By this means you will be able to -do it neatly. The part trimmed away is virtually refuse. -Of course, you do not throw away more than is necessary, -but take care that the white rim round the yolk is of uniform -breadth. Most cooks take the egg out with their right -hand, and attempt to trim it with the left; the result is -about as neat as what would happen were you to attempt -to write a letter with your left hand in a hurry. -</p> - -<p> -Very often the appearance of fried eggs is improved by -sprinkling over them a few specks of chopped parsley. -</p> - -<p> -In placing fried eggs on toast, place the slice over the -toast and draw the slice away. Do not push the egg on; -you may break it. -</p> - -<p id="poachedeggs081"> -<strong>Eggs, Poached</strong>.—The best kitchen implement to use for -poaching eggs is a good large frying-pan. The mistake is -to let the water boil; it should only just simmer. You -should avoid having the white of the egg set too hard. We -should endeavour to have the eggs look as white as possible. -In order to insure this, put a few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice -into the water, break the eggs separately into a clip, and -then turn them very gently into the hot water. When they -are set fairly firm take them out with an egg-slice, using the -left hand as before, and trim them with the right. It is not -necessary, in poached eggs, to have a clear yolk surrounded -with a white uniform ring. Poached eggs often look best when -the yolk reposes in a sort of pillow-case of white. Before -putting them on toast or spinach, &c., be very careful to drain -off the water; this is particularly important when the water -is acid, especially with vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="hardboiledeggs081"> -<strong>Eggs, Hard-boiled</strong>.—Place the eggs in cold water, bring -the water to boiling point, and let them boil for ten minutes; -if the hard-boiled eggs are wanted hot, put them in cold water -for half a minute, in order that you may remove the shells -without burning your fingers. If the eggs are required cold, -it is best not to remove the shells till just before they are -wanted; but if they have to be served cold, similar to what we -meet with at railway refreshment-rooms, let them be served -cold, <em>whole</em>. If you cut a hard-boiled egg the yolk very soon -gets discoloured and brown round the edge, shrivels up, and -becomes most unappetising in appearance. -</p> - -<p id="curriedeggs082"> -<strong>Eggs, Curried.</strong>—Take some <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut them in halves (remove -the half-yolks), and cut them into rings. Place all these rings round the -edge of the dish, and pile the white rings up to make a sort of border; -pour some thick <a href="#currysauce050">curry sauce</a> in the middle, -place the half-yolks at equal distances apart, on the white round the edge, -and sprinkle a few specks of green parsley round the edge on the whites; -this will give the dish a pretty appearance. -</p> - -<p id="devilledeggs082"> -<strong>Eggs, Devilled.</strong>—Take, say, half a dozen eggs, boil them -hard, remove the shells while hot, cut them in halves, scoop -out the yolk, and cut a tiny piece off the bottom of each -white cup, so that it will stand upright—à la Columbus. -Next take all the yolks, and put them in a basin, and pound -them with a little butter till you get a thick squash; add some -cayenne pepper, according to taste, a little white pepper, a -little salt, and a few drops of chilli-vinegar or ordinary -vinegar; you can also add a little finely chopped parsley—say -a teaspoonful. Fill each cup with some of this mixture, -and as there will be more than enough to fill them, owing -to the butter, bring them to a point, like a cone. Devilled -eggs are best served cold, in which case they look best -placed on a silver or ordinary dish, the bottom of which is -covered with green parsley; the white looks best on a green -bed. Some cooks chop up the little bits of white cut off -from the bottom of the cups, divide them into two portions, -and colour one half pink by shaking them in a saucer with -a few drops of cochineal. These white and pink specks are -then sprinkled over the parsley. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—In an ordinary way devilled eggs require anchovy -sauce to be mixed with the yolks, but anchovy sauce is not -allowed in vegetarian cookery. -</p> - -<p id="eggsalabonnefemme083"> -<strong>Eggs à la bonne femme</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in -making <a href="#devilledeggs082">devilled eggs</a>, till you place the -yolks in the basin; then add to these yolks, while hot, a little dissolved -butter, and small pieces of chopped cold boiled carrot, turnip, celery, and -beet-root; season with white pepper and salt, and mix well together. Add -also a suspicion of nutmeg and a little lemon-juice. Fill the cups with -this while the mixture is moist, as when the butter gets cold the mixture -gets firm. If you use chopped beet-root as well as other vegetables, it is -best to fill half the cups with half the mixture before any beetroot is -added, then add the beet-root and stir the mixture well up and it will turn -a bright red. Now fill the remaining half of the cups, and place them on -the dish containing the parsley, alternately. The red contrasts prettily -with the light yellowish white of the first half. Do not colour the white -specks with cochineal, as this is a different shade of red from the -beet-root. You can chop up the white and sprinkle it over the parsley with -a little chopped beet-root as well. -</p> - -<p id="eggsalatripe083"> -<strong>Eggs à la tripe</strong>.—Small Spanish onions are -perhaps best for this dish, but ordinary onions can be used. Cut the onions -cross-ways after peeling them, so that they fall in rings, and remove the -white core. Two Spanish or half a dozen ordinary onions will be sufficient. -Fry these rings of onions in butter till they are tender, without browning -them. Take them out of the frying-pan and put them aside. Add a spoonful of -flour to the frying-pan, and make a paste with the butter, and then add -sufficient milk so that when it is boiled and stirred up it makes a thick -sauce; add pepper and salt, a little lemon-juice, and a small quantity of -grated nutmeg. Put back the rings of onions into this, and let them simmer -gently. Take half a dozen <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled -eggs</a>, cut the eggs in halves, remove the yolks, and cut the whites into -rings, like the onions, mixing these white egg-rings with the onions and -sauce; make the whole hot and serve on a dish, using the hard-boiled -half-yolks to garnish; sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the whole, -and serve. -</p> - -<p id="eggforcemeat083"> -<strong>Egg, Forcemeat of, or Egg Balls</strong>.—Take three hard-boiled -yolks of eggs, powder them, mix in a raw yolk, add a little -pepper and salt, a small quantity of grated nutmeg, about a -saltspoonful of finely chopped parsley, chopped up with a -pinch of savoury herbs, or a pinch of dust from bottled savoury -herbs, sifted from them, may be added instead. Roll these -into balls not bigger than a very small marble, flour them, and -throw them into boiling water till they are set. -</p> - -<p id="eggballs083"> -In many parts of the Continent, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, -served whole, are used as egg balls. A much cheaper way of -making egg balls is as follows:—Beat up one egg, add a teaspoonful -of chopped blanched parsley, some pepper and salt, -and a very little grated nutmeg. Sift a bottle of ordinary mixed -savoury herbs in a sieve, and take about half a saltspoonful of -the dust and mix this with the egg, This will be found really -better than using the herbs themselves. Now make some very -fine bread-crumbs from <em>stale</em> bread, and mix this with the -beaten-up egg till you make a sort of soft paste or dough; roll -this into balls the size of a marble, flour them, and throw them -into boiling water. The balls must be small or they will split -in boiling. -</p> - -<p id="eggsaugratin084"> -<strong>Eggs au gratin</strong>.—Make about half a pint of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, make it hot over the fire, and -stir in about two ounces of Parmesan cheese, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, -some white pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Make this hot, and then -add the yolks of four eggs. Stir it all up, and keep stirring very quickly -till the mixture begins to thicken, when you must instantly remove it from -the fire, but continue stirring for another minute. In the meantime have -ready some <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut these -into slices, and make a circle of the bigger slices on a dish; then spread -a layer of the mixture over the slices of egg, and place another layer on -this smaller than the one below, then another layer of mixture, and so on -with alternate layers till you pile it up in the shape of a pyramid. Spread -a layer of the remainder of the mixture over the surface, and sprinkle some -powdered light-coloured bread-raspings mixed with some grated Parmesan -cheese over the whole; place the dish in the oven to get hot and to -slightly brown, and then serve. Some fried bread cut into pretty shapes can -be used to ornament the base. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandspinach085"> -<strong>Eggs and Spinach</strong>.—Make a thick purée of -spinach; take some <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut -them in halves while hot, after removing the shells, and press each half a -little way into the purée, so that the yellow yolk will be shown -surrounded by the white ring. Be very careful not to smear the edge with -the spinach. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—Sometimes eggs are poached and laid on the spinach -whole. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandturniptops085"> -<strong>Eggs and Turnip-tops</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above, using a -purée of turnip-tops instead of spinach. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandasparagus085"> -<strong>Eggs and Asparagus</strong>.—Have ready some of the green -parts of asparagus, boiled tender, and cut up into little pieces -an eighth of an inch long so that they look like peas. Beat up -four eggs very thoroughly with some pepper and salt, and mix -in the asparagus, only do not break the pieces of green. Melt -a couple of ounces of butter in a small stew-pan, and as soon as -it commences to froth pour in the beaten-up egg and asparagus; -stir the mixture quickly over the fire, being careful to scrape -the bottom of the saucepan. As soon as the mixture thickens -pour it on some hot toast, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandcelery085"> -<strong>Eggs and Celery</strong>.—Have ready some stewed celery on -toast. (<em>See</em> <a href="#stewedcelery145">CELERY, STEWED</a>.) <a -href="#poachedeggs081">Poach some eggs</a> and place them on the top. <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">Hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut into slices, can be -added to the celery instead of poached eggs. -</p> - -<p> -When stewed celery is served as a course by itself, the -addition of the eggs and plenty of bread make it a wholesome -and satisfying meal. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Egg Salad</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#eggsalad099">SALADS</a>.) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Egg Sandwiches</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#eggsandwiches106">SANDWICHES</a>.) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Egg Sauce</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#eggsauce051">SAUCES</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="eggtoast085"> -<strong>Egg Toast</strong>.—Beat up a couple of eggs, melt an ounce of -butter in a saucepan, and add to it a little pepper and salt. As -soon as the butter begins to froth, add the beaten-up egg and -stir the mixture very quickly, and the moment it begins to -thicken pour it over a slice of hot buttered toast. -</p> - -<p id="eggsaladauphine085"> -<strong>Eggs à la Dauphine</strong>.—Take ten <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut them -in halves and remove the yolks, and place the yolks in a basin -with a piece of new bread, about as big as the fist, that has been -soaked in some milk, or better still, cream; add a teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, a quarter of a grated nutmeg, and two -ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; rub the whole well together, -and then add two whole eggs, well beaten up, to the -mixture to moisten it. Next fill all these white cups of eggs -with some of this mixture, place the eggs well together, and -spread a thin layer of the mixture over the top; then take a -smaller number of half-eggs, filled, and place on the top and -make a pyramid, so that a single half-egg is at the top. You -can place ten half-eggs at the bottom in one layer, six half-eggs -on the top of these, spreading a thin layer of the mixture, then -three half-eggs, one more layer of the mixture, and then one -half-egg at the summit. This dish is sometimes ornamented -by forcing hard-boiled yolks of eggs through a wire sieve. It -falls like yellow vermicelli into threads. This dish should be -placed in the oven, to be made quite hot, and some kind of -<a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>should be poured round the edge. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandblackbutter086"> -<strong>Eggs and Black Butter</strong>.—<a href="#friedeggs080">Fry -some eggs</a>, serve them up on a hot dish, and pour some black butter -round the base. (<em>See</em> <a href="#blackbutter048">BLACK BUTTER -SAUCE</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="eggsandgarlic086"> -<strong>Eggs and Garlic</strong>.—This is better adapted for an -Italian than an English palate. Take half a dozen heads of garlic and fry -them in a little butter in order to remove the rankness of flavour. Take -them out and pound them in a mortar with rather more than a tablespoonful -of oil; heat this on the fire in a stew-pan, after adding some pepper and -salt. Beat up an egg, and stir this in with the oil and garlic till the -mixture gets thick. Arrange some slices of <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>—four eggs would be -sufficient—pour this mixture in the centre, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandmushrooms086"> -<strong>Eggs with Mushrooms</strong>.—Take half a pint of button -mushrooms and, if fresh, peel them and throw them instantly into water made -acid with lemon-juice, in order that they may not turn a bad colour. In the -meantime slice up a good-sized Spanish onion, and fry the onion in a little -butter. As soon as the onion is a little tender, chop up and add the -mushrooms. Put all this into a stew-pan with a little <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, or a little water can be added and -then thickened with a little butter and flour. Let this simmer gently for -nearly half an hour, add a little made mustard, pepper and salt and a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. Before sending to table add half a dozen <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>; the whites should be cut -into rings, and should be only put into the sauce long enough to get hot; -the yolks should be kept separate, but must be warmed up in the sauce. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandonions087"> -<strong>Eggs and Onions</strong>.—Cut up a large Spanish onion in -slices, and fry it in some butter till it is a light brown and tender, but -do not let it burn; drain off the butter and put the fried onion on a dish; -sprinkle some cayenne pepper and a little salt over the onions, and squeeze -the juice of a whole lemon over them. Now <a href="#poachedeggs081">poach -some eggs</a> and serve them on the top of the onion. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandpotatoes087"> -<strong>Eggs and Potatoes</strong>.—Take the remains of some floury -potatoes, beat up an egg, and mix the potato flour with the -egg. You can also chop up very finely a small quantity of -onion and parsley, and season with plenty of pepper and salt. -The respective quantities of floury potatoes and beaten egg -must be so regulated that you can roll the mixture into balls -without their having any tendency to break. Make the balls -big enough so that when you press them between the hands -you can squeeze the ball into the shape of an ordinary egg, or -you can mould them into this shape with a tablespoon. Now -flour these imitation eggs in order to dry the surface, and then -dip them into well-beaten-up egg and cover them with dried -bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little butter or oil, or brown -them in the oven, occasionally basting them with a little -butter. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandsaucerobert087"> -<strong>Eggs and Sauce Robert</strong>.—Take some <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut them into quarters, and -make them hot in some Sauce Robert—(<em>see</em> <a -href="#robertsauce058">ROBERT SAUCE</a>)—and serve with fried or -toasted bread in a dish. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandsorrel087"> -<strong>Eggs and Sorrel</strong>.—Make a thick purée of -sorrel—(<em>see</em> <a href="#sorrelsauce058">SORREL -SAUCE</a>)—and serve some <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled</a> or <a -href="#poachedeggs081">poached eggs</a> on the top. -</p> - -<p id="broiledeggs087"> -<strong>Eggs, Broiled</strong>.—Cut a large slice of crumb of bread off a -big loaf; toast it lightly, put some pieces of butter on it, and -put it on a dish in front of the fire; then break some eggs carefully -on to the toast, and let them set from the heat of the fire -like a joint roasting; when the side nearest the fire gets set, it -will be necessary to turn the dish round. When the whole -has set, squeeze the juice of an orange over the eggs, and a -little grated nutmeg may be added. The eggs and toast should -be served in the same dish in which they are baked. -</p> - -<p id="butteredeggs088"> -<strong>Eggs, Buttered</strong>.—Break some eggs into a flat dish, then -take a little butter and make it hot in a frying-pan till it -frizzles and begins to turn brown. Now pour this very hot -butter, which is hotter than boiling water, over the eggs in the -dish. Put the dish in the oven a short time, and finish off -setting the yolks with a red-hot salamander. -</p> - -<p id="scrambledeggs088"> -<strong>Eggs, Scrambled</strong>.—Scrambled eggs, when finished properly, -should have the appearance of yellow and white streaks, distinct -in colour, but yet all joined together in one mass. Melt a -little butter in the frying-pan, break in some eggs, as if for -frying; of course, the whites begin to set before the yolks. As -soon as the whites are nearly but not quite set, stir the whole -together till the whole mass sets. By this means you will get -yellow and white streaks joined together. It is very important -that you don’t let the eggs get brown at the bottom; you will -therefore require a perfectly clean frying-pan and not too -fierce a fire. -</p> - -<p id="eggsinsunshine088"> -<strong>Eggs in Sunshine</strong>.—This is a name given to fried eggs -with tomato served on the top. You want a dish that will -stand the heat; consequently, take an oval baking-tin, or -enamelled dish that you can put on the top of a shut-up stove. -Melt a little butter in this, and as soon as it begins to frizzle -break some eggs into the dish, and let them all set together. -As soon as they are set, pour four or five tablespoonfuls of -tomato conserve on the top; this is much better than tomato -sauce, which contains vinegar. Or you can bake half a dozen -ripe tomatoes in a tin in the oven, and place these on the top -instead of the tomato conserve. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandcucumber088"> -<strong>Eggs and Cucumber</strong>.—Peel and slice up two or three -little cucumbers of the size generally sold on a barrow at a penny each. -Put these with two or three ounces of butter in a stew-pan, and three small -onions about the size of the top of the thumb, chopped very fine; fry these -and add a dessertspoonful of vinegar. When the cucumber is tender, and a -little time has been allowed for the vinegar to evaporate, add six <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut into slices; make these -very hot and serve. Pepper and salt must be added. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandcheese089"> -<strong>Eggs with Cheese</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pound of grated -cheese (the cheese should be dry and white), melt this cheese -gently in a stew-pan over the fire, with a little bit of butter -about as big as the thumb, in order to assist the cheese in -melting. Mix with it a brimming teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, two or three tiny spring onions, chopped very fine, -and about a quarter of a small grated nutmeg. When the -cheese is melted, add six beaten-up eggs, and stir the whole -together till they are set. Fried or toasted bread should be -served round the edge of the dish. -</p> - -<p id="littleeggs089"> -<strong>Little Eggs for Garnishing</strong>.—This is a nice dish when -you require a lot of white of eggs for other purposes, such -as iceing a wedding-cake, or making light vanilla or almond -biscuits. -</p> - -<p> -Take six hard-boiled yolks, powder them, flavour with a -little pepper and salt, and mix in three raw yolks; mix -this well together, and roll them into shapes like very small -sausages, pointed at each end like a foreign cigar. Flour -these on the outside, and throw them into boiling water. -These can be used for garnishing purposes for the vast -majority of vegetarian dishes. They can be flavoured if wished -with grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, and a few savoury -herbs. -</p> - -<p id="omelets089"> -<strong>Omelets</strong>.—It is a strange fact, but not the less true, that -to get a well-made omelet in a private house in this country -is the exception and not the rule. A few general remarks -on making omelets will, we hope, not be out of place in -writing a book on an exceptional style of cookery, in which -omelets should play a most important part. -</p> - -<p> -First of all, we require an omelet-pan, and for this purpose -the cheaper the frying-pan the better. The best omelet-pan -of all is a copper one, tinned inside. Copper conveys -heat quicker than almost any other metal; consequently, if -we use an ordinary frying-pan, the thinner it is the quicker -will heat be conveyed. -</p> - -<p> -It is very essential that the frying-pan be absolutely -clean, and it will be found almost essential to reserve the -omelet-pan for omelets only. A frying-pan that has cooked -meat should not be used for the purpose; and although in vegetarian -cookery a frying-pan has not been used in this manner, -we should still avoid one in which onions or vegetables, or even -black butter has been made. The inside of an omelet-pan -should always look as if it had only just left the ironmonger’s -shop. -</p> - -<p> -The next great question is, how much butter should be -allowed for, say, six eggs? On this point the greatest authorities -differ. We will first quote our authorities, and then -attempt to give an explanation that reconciles the difference. -A plain omelet may be roughly described as settings of eggs -well beaten up by stirring them up in hot butter. One of the -oldest cookery books we can call to mind is entitled “The Experienced -English Housekeeper,” by Elizabeth Raffald. The -book, which was published in 1775, is dedicated to the Hon. -Lady Elizabeth Warburton, whom the authoress formerly -served. as housekeeper. The recipe is entitled “To make an -amulet.” The book states, “Put a quarter of a pound of butter -into a frying-pan, break six eggs”; Francatelli also gives four -ounces of butter to six eggs. -</p> - -<p> -On the other hand, Soyer, the great cook, gives two ounces -of butter to six eggs; so also does the equally great Louis -Eustache Ude, cook to Louis XVI. -</p> - -<p> -We may add that “Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery” recommended -two ounces of butter to six eggs, whilst “Cassell’s -Shilling Cookery” recommends four eggs. -</p> - -<p> -The probable reason why two such undoubtedly great -authorities as Soyer and Francatelli should differ is that in -making one kind of omelet you would use less butter than in -making another. Francatelli wrote for what may be described -as that “high class cooking suited for Pall Mall clubs,” where -no one better than himself knew how best to raise the jaded -appetite of a wealthy epicure. Soyer’s book was written for -the people. -</p> - -<p> -There are two kinds of omelets, one in which the egg is -scarcely beaten at all, and in which, when cooked, the egg -appears set in long streaks. There is also the richer omelet, -which is sent to table more resembling a light pudding. For -the former of these omelets, two ounces of butter will suffice -for six eggs; for the latter of these you will require four -ounces of butter, or else the omelet will be leathery. In -Holland, Belgium, and Germany, and in country villages in -France, the omelet is made, as a rule, with six eggs to two -ounces of butter. It comes up like eggs that have been set. -In the higher-class restaurants in Paris, like Bignon’s, or the -Café Anglais, the omelet is lighter, and probably about four -ounces of butter would be used to six eggs. -</p> - -<p> -This probably explains the different directions given in -various cookery books for making omelets. -</p> - -<p id="plainomelet091"> -<strong>Omelet, Plain</strong>.—Melt <em>four</em> ounces of butter in a frying-pan, -heat up six eggs <em>till they froth</em>; add a little pepper and -salt, pour the beaten-up eggs into the frying-pan as soon as the -butter begins to frizzle, and with a tablespoon keep scraping -the bottom of the frying-pan in every part, not forgetting the -edge. Gradually the mixture becomes lumpy; still go on -scraping till about two-thirds or more are lumpy and the rest -liquid. Now slacken the heat slightly by lifting the frying-pan -from the fire, and push the omelet into half the frying-pan -so that it is in the shape of a semicircle. By this time, probably, -it will be nearly set. Take the frying-pan off the fire, -and hold it in a slanting direction in front of the fire. When -the whole is set, as it will quickly do, slide off the omelet from -the frying-pan on to a hot dish with an egg-slice, and serve. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Omelet, Plain (another way)</strong>.—Put <em>two</em> ounces of butter -into a frying-pan, break six eggs into a basin with a little pepper -and salt, <em>and beat them very slightly</em>, so that the yolks and whites -are quite mixed into one, but do not beat them more than you -can help, and <em>do not let the eggs froth</em>. As soon as the butter -frizzles, pour in the beaten eggs, scrape the frying-pan quickly -with a spoon in every part till the mixture gets lumpy. Now -slacken the heat if the fire is fierce, and let the mixture set in -the frying-pan like a pancake. As soon as it is nearly set, with -perhaps only a dessertspoonful of liquid left unset, turn the -omelet over, one half on to the other half, in the shape of a -semicircle, and bring the spoonful of unset fluid to join them -over the edge. Slide off the omelet on to a hot dish with an -egg-slice. -</p> - -<p id="fineherbsomelet092"> -<strong>Omelet with Fine Herbs</strong>.—Chop up a dessertspoonful of -parsley, and add a good pinch of powdered savoury herbs, add -these with pepper and salt to the six beaten-up eggs in a basin. -Beat up the eggs, either slightly or very thoroughly, according -to whether you use two ounces of butter or four. Proceed in -every respect, in making the omelet, as directed for <a -href="#plainomelet091">plain -omelet</a> above. -</p> - -<p id="onionomelet092"> -<strong>Omelet with Onion</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in the above -recipe, only adding to the chopped parsley a piece of onion or -shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to the first -joint, also very finely chopped. When onion is used in making -an omelet a little extra pepper should be added. -</p> - -<p id="cheeseomelet092"> -<strong>Omelet with Cheese</strong>.—Proceed as if making an ordinary -omelet, with four ounces of butter. Add to the six well beaten-up -eggs about four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; a small -quantity of cream will be found a great improvement to this -omelet. A little pepper and salt must, of course, be added -as well. -</p> - -<p id="potatoomelet092"> -<strong>Potato Omelet</strong>.—Mix three ounces of a floury potato with -six eggs, a little pepper and salt, and half a pint of milk, and -make the milk boil and then stand for a couple of minutes -before it is mixed with the eggs; pour this mixture into three -or four ounces of butter, and proceed as in making an ordinary -omelet. -</p> - -<p id="sweetpotatoomelet092"> -<strong>Potato Omelet, Sweet</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above, only -instead of adding pepper and salt mix in a brimming tablespoonful -of finely powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, with -half a grated nutmeg. -</p> - -<p id="cheesesouffle092"> -<strong>Cheese Soufflé</strong>.—To make a small cheese soufflé in a round -cake-tin, proceed as follows:—Make the tin very hot in the -oven. Put in about an ounce of butter, so as to make the tin -oily in every part inside. The tin must be tilted so that the -butter pours round the sides of the tin as well as the bottom. -Take two eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, and beat the -whites to a stiff froth; beat up the two yolks very thoroughly -with a quarter of a pint of milk. Add to this two tablespoonfuls -of grated Parmesan cheese; add this mixture to the -beaten-up whites, and mix the whole carefully together. Now -pour this mixture into the hot buttered tin, which should be -five or six inches deep, and bake it in the oven. The mixture -will rise to five or six times its original depth. As soon as it -is done, run with the soufflé from the oven door to the dining-room -door. However quick you may be, the soufflé will probably -sink an inch on the way. Some cooks wrap hot flannel -on the outside of the tin to keep up the heat. If you have a -folded dinner napkin round the tin for appearance sake, as is -usually the case, fold the napkin before you make the soufflé, -and make the napkin sufficiently big round that it can be -dropped over the tin in an instant. The napkin should be -pinned, and be quite half an inch in diameter bigger than the -width of the tin. This is to save time. Delay in serving the -soufflé is fatal. -</p> - -<p id="omeletsouffle093"> -<strong>Omelet Soufflé, Sweet</strong>.—In making an omelet soufflé, -sweet, you can proceed in exactly the same manner as making a -cheese soufflé, with the exception that you add two tablespoonfuls -of powdered sugar instead of two tablespoonfuls of grated -cheese. The omelet will, however, require flavouring of some -kind, the two most delicate being vanilla and orange-flower -water. You can flavour it with lemon by rubbing a few lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon, and then pounding this with -the powdered sugar. It must be pounded very thoroughly and -mixed very carefully, or else one part of the omelet will taste -stronger of lemon than the other. Some powdered sugar -should be shaken over the top of the soufflé just before -serving. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Omelet Soufflé (another way)</strong>.—When a soufflé is made on -a larger scale, and served up on a flat dish, it is best to proceed -as follows:—Take six ounces of powdered sugar, and mix them -with six yolks of eggs and a dessertspoonful of flour and a -pinch of salt. To this must be added whatever flavouring is -used, such as vanilla. This is all mixed together till it is -perfectly smooth. Next beat the six whites to a very stiff -froth; mix this in with the batter lightly, put two ounces of -butter into an omelet-pan, and as soon as the butter begins to -frizzle pour in the mixture. As it begins to set round the -edges, turn it over and heap it up in the middle, and then slide -the omelet off on to a plated-edged baking dish, which must be -well buttered. Put it in the oven for about a quarter of an -hour, to let it rise, shake some powdered sugar over the top, -and serve very quickly. -</p> - -<p id="sweetomelet094"> -<strong>Omelet, Sweet</strong>.—Make an ordinary <a -href="#plainomelet091">plain omelet</a> with six -eggs and either two or four ounces of butter, as directed for -making omelet, plain. Instead of adding pepper and salt to -the beaten-up eggs, add one or two tablespoonfuls of finely -powdered sugar. At the last moment, sprinkle a little -powdered sugar over the omelet, and just glaze the sugar with -a red-hot salamander. -</p> - -<p id="omeletwithjam094"> -<strong>Omelet with Jam</strong>.—Make a plain <a -href="#sweetomelet094">sweet omelet</a> as directed -above, adding rather less sugar—about half. If you make the -omelet with two ounces of butter, and turn it over, put a -couple of tablespoonfuls of jam on the omelet, and turn the half -over the jam. It is best to put the jam in the oven for a -minute or two to take the chill off. -</p> - -<p> -If you make the omelet with four ounces of butter, you must put the jam by -the side of the omelet and let the thin part of the omelet cover it. Of -course, the question what jam is best for sweet omelet is purely a matter -of taste. Most good judges consider that <a href="#apricotjam164">apricot -jam</a> is the best, and if the sweet omelet itself be flavoured with a -little essence of vanilla, the result is generally considered one of the -nicest sweets that can be sent to table. <a -href="#strawberryjam164">Strawberry jam</a>, especially if some of the -strawberries are whole, is also very nice. The objection to <a -href="#raspberryjam164">raspberry jam</a> is the pips. -</p> - -<p> -A most delicious omelet can be made by chopping up some preserved slices of -pine-apple, and placing this in the omelet, and making the pine-apple syrup -hot and pouring it round the base. <a -href="#redcurrantjelly161">Red-currant jelly</a>, <a -href="#blackcurrantjam164">black-currant jam</a>, and <a -href="#plumjam164">plum jam</a>can all be used. One of the cheapest and, in -the opinion of many, the best sweet omelets can be made with six eggs, two -ounces of butter, and three or four tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade. In -this case it will cost no more to rub a few lumps of sugar on the outside -of an orange, and pound these with the powdered sugar you use to sweeten -the omelet. If the marmalade is liquid, as it often is, one or two -tablespoonfuls of the juice can be poured round the edge of the omelet. -</p> - -<p id="omeletaurhum095"> -<strong>Omelet au Rhum</strong>.—As a rule, spirits are not allowed in -vegetarian cookery. An omelet au rhum is simply a sweet -omelet, plain, with plenty of powdered sugar sprinkled over the -top, with some rum ignited poured over it just before it is sent -to table. The way to ignite the rum is to fill a large spoon, -like a gravy-spoon, and hold a lighted wooden taper (not wax; -it tastes) underneath the spoon till the rum lights. The dish -should be hot. It may be a consolation to teetotallers to -reflect that the fact of burning the rum causes all the alcohol -to evaporate, and there is nothing left but the flavour. -</p> - -<p id="omeletaukirsch095"> -<strong>Omelet au Kirsch</strong>.—Proceed as above, substituting -Kirschenwasser for Rum. -</p> - -<p id="vegetableomelet095"> -<strong>Omelet, Vegetable</strong>.—A <a href="#plainomelet091">plain -omelet</a> can also be served with any purée of vegetables, so that -we can have—Asparagus Omelet, Artichoke Omelet, French Bean Omelet, -Celery Omelet, Spinach Omelet, Mushroom Omelet, Tomato Omelet, &c. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter5">CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<h3>SALADS AND SANDWICHES.</h3> - -<p id="salads096"> -<strong>Salads and Sandwiches.</strong>—Probably the most patriotic -Englishman will admit that, on the subject of salads, we can -learn something from the French. During the last half-century -a great improvement has taken place on this point in -this country. Many years ago it was the fashion to dress an -English lettuce, resembling in shape an old umbrella, with -a mixture of brown sugar, milk, mustard, and even anchovy -and Worcester sauce, and then add a few drops of oil, as if it -were some dangerous poison, like prussic acid, not to be tampered -with lightly. The old-fashioned lettuces were so hard -and crisp that it was difficult to chew them without making a -noise somewhat similar to walking on a shingly beach. In -modern days, however, we have arrived at a stage of civilisation -in which, as a rule, we use soft French lettuces instead -of the hard gingham-shaped vegetables which somehow or -other our grandfathers ate for supper with a whole lobster, -seasoned with about half a pint of vinegar, and then slept -none the worse for the performance. The first point for -consideration, if we wish to have a good salad, is to have -the lettuces crisp and dry. Old-fashioned French cookery-books -direct that the lettuce should never be washed. The -stalks should be cut off, the outside leaves removed and -thrown away, and the lettuce itself should then be pulled in -pieces with the fingers, and each piece wiped with a clean -cloth. This is not always practicable, but the principle remains -the same. You can wash the lettuce leaves without bruising -them. You can dry them by shaking them up lightly in a -large clean cloth, and you can spread them out and let them -get <em>dry</em> an hour or two before they are dressed. -</p> - -<p> -Another important point to be borne in mind is that a -salad should never be dressed till just before it is wanted to -be eaten. If by chance you put by the remains of a dressed -salad, it is good for nothing the next morning. Finally, the -oil must be pure olive oil of the best quality, and to ensure -this it should bear the name of some well-known firm. A -good deal of the oil sold simply as salad oil, bearing no name, -is adulterated, sometimes with cotton-seed oil. -</p> - -<p id="frenchsalad097"> -<strong>Salad, French Lettuce, Plain</strong>.—Clean one or more French -lettuces (throw away all the leaves that are decayed or bruised), -place these in a salad-bowl, and, supposing we have sufficient -for two persons, dress the salad as follows:—Put a saltspoonful -of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper into a tablespoon. Fill -the tablespoon up with oil, stir the pepper and salt up with a -fork, and pour it over the lettuce. Now add another tablespoonful -of oil, and then toss the lettuce leaves lightly together -with a spoon and fork. Allow one tablespoonful of oil to each -person. This salad would suffice for two. Be sure and mix -the lettuce and oil well together before you add any vinegar. -The reason of this is that if you add the vinegar first it would -soak into the lettuce leaves, making one part more acid than -another. Having well mixed up the lettuce and oil, add half -a tablespoonful of vinegar. Mix it once more, and the salad -is dressed. -</p> - -<p> -In France they always add to the lettuce, before it is -dressed, two or three finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves. -Dried tarragon can be used, but it is not equal to fresh. If you -have no tarragon it is a great improvement to use tarragon -vinegar instead of ordinary vinegar. Tarragon vinegar is sold -by all grocers at sixpence per bottle. -</p> - -<p> -It is also often customary to rub the salad-bowl with a bead -of garlic, or rub a piece of crust of bread with garlic, and toss -this piece of crust up with the salad after it has been dressed. -Garlic should never be chopped up, but only used as stated -above. -</p> - -<p> -A good French salad is also always decorated with one or -more <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut into quarters, longways. These -are placed on the top of the lettuce. -</p> - -<p id="englishsalad097"> -<strong>Salad, English, Lettuce</strong>.—The ordinary English salad is -made either with French or English lettuces, and is generally -dressed as follows:—One or two tablespoonfuls of cream or -milk, a teaspoonful of made mustard, two tablespoonfuls of -vinegar, pepper, and salt. There are many people still living -in remote parts of the country who prefer this style of -dressing. -</p> - -<p id="mixedsalad098"> -<strong>Salad, English, Mixed</strong>.—The old-fashioned English <em>mixed</em> -salad generally consisted of English lettuce cut up into strips -crossways, to which was added mustard and cress, boiled beetroot, -chopped celery, spring onions, radishes, and watercress. -It is by no means a bad mixture when dressed with oil, and, -of course, it can be dressed it à l’Anglaise. It makes an excellent -accompaniment to a huge hunk of cheese, a crusty loaf, a good -appetite, and a better digestion. -</p> - -<p id="mayonnaisesalad098"> -<strong>Salad, Mayonnaise</strong>.—This is generally considered the -king of salads, and it can be made an exceedingly pretty-looking dish, Take -two or more French lettuces, clean and dry them as directed above, and take -the small heart of one lettuce about the size of a small walnut, uncut from -the stalk, so that you can stand it upright in the middle of the salad, -raised above the surface. Arrange all the softer parts of the leaves on the -top of the salad so as to make as much as possible a smooth surface. Make -some <a href="#mayonnaisesauce053">Mayonnaise sauce</a>, thick enough to be -spread like butter, and mask this little mound and all the surface of the -middle of the salad round it with a thin layer of the sauce, so that it -looks like the top of a mould of solid custard. Ornament the edge of the -salad with <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> cut in -quarters, and place between the quarters slices of pickled gherkins and -stoned olives. Take a small teaspoonful of French capers, dry them on a -cloth, and sprinkle a few of them about an inch apart on the white surface. -Next chop up, very finely, about half a teaspoonful of parsley, and see -that this doesn’t stick together in lumps. Place this on the end of a -knife and flip the knife so that the little green specks of parsley fall on -the white surface. Next take about half a saltspoonful of finely crumbled -bread, and shake these in a saucer with one or two drops of cochineal. This -will colour them a bright red, and they will have all the appearance of -lobster-coral. Place these red bread-crumbs on the end of a knife and let -them fall over the white surface like the parsley. The little red and green -specks on the white background make the dish look exceedingly pretty. -Before mixing the salad all together add a tablespoonful of tarragon -vinegar or lemon-juice. -</p> - -<p id="tomatosalad099"> -<strong>Tomato Salad</strong>.—For making tomato salad you require red, -ripe tomatoes; the smoother they are the better, but the chief -points are—very ripe and very red. Never use those pink, -crinkly tomatoes which look something like milk stained with -plum juice. If tomatoes are picked unripe, and then allowed -to ripen afterwards, they become rotten and worthless. Slice -up half a dozen or more tomatoes—sometimes it will be necessary -to remove the core and pips, sometimes not; add a little -oil, a little vinegar, and some pepper and salt. Tomato salad -is one of the few that are very nice without any oil at all. Of -course, this is a matter of taste. Some persons slice up a few -onions and add to the tomatoes. In addition to this you can -add some slices of cold potatoes. In this latter case, heap the -potatoes up in the middle of the dish in the shape of a dome -sprinkle some chopped parsley over the potatoes, put a border -of sliced onion round the base, and then a border of sliced -tomato outside that. This makes the dish look pretty. -</p> - -<p> -Many persons rub the dish or salad-bowl with a bead of -garlic. This is quite sufficient to flavour the salad; but never -<em>chop</em> garlic for salads. -</p> - -<p id="eggsalad099"> -<strong>Egg Salad</strong>.—Egg salad consists of an ordinary salad -made with French lettuces, with an extra quantity of <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>. If you want to make the -salad look very pretty on the top, cut up the lettuces and dress them with -oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. Make the tops of the lettuces (which -should be placed in a round salad-bowl) as smooth as you can without -pressing them down unnecessarily. Now take six hard-boiled eggs, separate -the yolks from the whites, powder the yolks, and chop up the whites small. -Sprinkle a ring of yellow round the edge of the salad-bowl, say an inch in -width, then put a ring of white round, and place the remainder of yolk in -the middle, almost up to the centre. Have the centre about two inches in -diameter. We now have a yellow centre surrounded by a broad white rim (as, -of course, there is more white than yellow), and an outside yellow ring, -which meets the white china bowl. Reserve about a teaspoonful of pieces of -finely chopped white, and put them in a saucer, with a few drops of -cochineal, and shake them. This turns them a bright red. Sprinkle these red -specks <em>very sparingly</em> on the white, and take about half a -teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, and sprinkle these green specks on -the yellow. This makes the dish look pretty. -</p> - -<p id="germansalad100"> -<strong>German Salad</strong>.—German salad is made from cold boiled -vegetables chopped up. In Germany, it is made, according to -English ideas, from every vegetable you have ever heard of, -mixed with a number of vegetables you have never heard of. -In England it can be made by chopping up boiled carrot, -turnip, cabbage, cauliflower, potato, French beans, Brussels -sprouts (whole), celery, raw onion, raw apple, &c. In fact, in -making this vegetable salad the motto should be “the more -the merrier.” In addition to this you will find that they add -what is known as <em>sauer kraut</em>. This latter is not adapted, as -a rule, to English palates. The salad is mixed with oil and -vinegar in the ordinary way, the Germans adding much more -vinegar than we should care for in this country. The salad -is decorated at the finish with boiled beet-root. It is very -pretty to cut the beet-root into triangles, the base of the -triangle touching the edge of the salad-bowl, the point of the -triangle pointing inwards. Gut a star out of a good slice of -beet-root, and place it in the centre of the bowl; sprinkle a -little chopped blanched parsley over the surface of the mixed -vegetables. -</p> - -<p id="endivesalad100"> -<strong>Endive Salad</strong>.—Endives come into season long before -lettuces, and are much used abroad for making salads. The drawback to -endive is that it is tough, and the simple remedy is to boil it. Take three -or four white-heart endives, throw them into boiling water slightly salted. -When they get tender take them out and instantly throw them into cold -water, by which means you preserve their colour. When quite cold, take them -out again, drain them, dry them thoroughly, and pull them to pieces with -the fingers. Now place them in a salad-bowl, keeping the whitest part as -much as possible at the top. Place some <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> round the edge, and sprinkle -a little chopped blanched parsley over the white endive. You can, if you -like, put a few spikes of red beet-root between the quarters of eggs. -</p> - -<p> -It is a great improvement to rub the salad-bowl with a -bead of garlic, or you can rub a crust of bread with a bead -of garlic, and toss this lightly about in the salad when you -mix it. -</p> - -<p id="salsifysalad101"> -<strong>Salsify Salad</strong>.—Boiled salsify makes a very delicious salad. -Take some white salsify, scrape it, and instantly throw it into -vinegar and water, by which means you will keep it a pure -white. Then, when you have all ready, throw it into boiling -water, slightly salted, boil it till it is tender, throw it into cold -water, and when cold take it out, drain it and dry it, cut it up -into small half-inch pieces (or put it in whole, in sticks, into -a salad-bowl), sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over -the top, dress in the ordinary way with oil and white French -vinegar, and be sure to use white pepper, not black, if white -wine vinegar is objected to, the juice of a hard fresh lemon is -equally good, if not better. -</p> - -<p id="potatosalad101"> -<strong>Potato Salad</strong>.—Potato salad is generally made from the -remains of cold boiled potatoes. Of course, potatoes can be -boiled on purpose, in which case they should be allowed to get -cold in the water in which they were boiled. New potatoes -are far better for the purpose than old. Cut the potatoes into -slices, and place them in a salad-bowl with a little finely chopped -blanched parsley. You can also add some finely chopped onion -or shallot. If you do not add these you can rub the bowl with -a bead of garlic. Sprinkle some more chopped parsley over -the top of the salad and ornament the edge of the bowl with -some thin slices of pickled gherkins. A few stoned olives can -also be added. Dress the salad with oil and vinegar in the -ordinary way. -</p> - -<p id="asparagussalad101"> -<strong>Asparagus Salad</strong>.—Cold asparagus makes a most delicious -salad. It is needless, perhaps, to say it is made from cold -boiled asparagus. The best dressing for asparagus salad is -somewhat peculiar, and is made as follows:—Take, say, an -ounce of butter, put it in a saucer, and melt it in the oven -till it is like oil. Now mix in a teaspoonful of made -mustard, some pepper, salt, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. -Stir it all together, and as it gets cold it will begin to get -thick. Dip all the green part of the asparagus in this, and -lay the heads gently, without breaking them, in a vegetable -dish, with the white stalk resting on the edge of the dish, -and the green part in the middle. Let the salad get perfectly -cold, and then serve. Of course, the sauce clings to -the asparagus. The asparagus is eaten with the fingers like -hot asparagus—a custom now generally recognised. -</p> - -<p id="artichokesalad102"> -<strong>Artichoke Salad</strong>.—This applies to French artichokes, not -Jerusalem. In France, artichokes are often served raw for -breakfast, on a plate, with a little heap of chopped raw -onion and another heap of chopped capers or parsley. The -Frenchman mixes a little oil or vinegar on his plate, adding -the onion, &c., according to his taste. The leaves are pulled -off one by one, the white stalk part dipped in this dressing, -and then eaten, by being drawn through the teeth. The -artichoke bottom is reserved for the finish as a <em>bon bouche</em>, -something like a schoolboy who will eat all the pastry round a -jam tart, leaving the centre for the <em>finale</em>. -</p> - -<p id="beetrootsalad102"> -<strong>Beet-root Salad</strong>.—In boiling beet-roots be careful not to -break them, or else they will bleed and lose their colour. -When the beet-root is boiled and cold, peel it, and cut it -into thin slices. It can be dressed with oil and vinegar, or -vinegar only, adding pepper and salt. Some persons dress -beet-root with a salad-dressing in which cream is used instead -of oil; but never use cream <em>and</em> oil. To mix cream and oil is -like mixing bacon with butter. -</p> - -<p id="cucumbersalad102"> -<strong>Cucumber Salad</strong>.—Peel a cucumber and cut it into slices -as thin as possible. We might almost add, thinner if possible. -Mix it with a little salt, and let it stand, tossing the cucumber -about every now and then. By this means you extract all the -water from the cucumber. Drain off this water, and add -plenty of oil to the cucumber, and then mix it so that every -slice comes in contact with the oil. Now add a little pepper, -and a very little vinegar, and mix it thoroughly. If you add -vinegar to cucumber before the oil some of the slices will taste -like sour pickle, as the vinegar soaks into the cucumber. -Cucumber should be always served very cold, and is best -placed in an ice-chest for an hour before serving. Some people -put a piece of ice on the top of the cucumber. -</p> - -<p id="frenchbeansalad102"> -<strong>French Bean Salad</strong>.—Cold boiled French beans make a -very nice salad. A little chopped parsley should be mixed -with them, and the salad-bowl can be rubbed with a bead of -garlic. Some people soak the beans in vinegar first, and then -add oil. This would suit a German palate. A better plan is -to add the oil first, with pepper and salt, mix all well together, -and then add the vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="broadbeansalad103"> -<strong>Bean Salad</strong>.—Cold boiled broad beans make a very nice -salad. Rub off the skins so that only the green part is put in -the salad-bowl. Rub the bowl with garlic, add a little chopped -parsley, then oil, pepper and salt, mix well, and add vinegar -last of all. -</p> - -<p id="haricotbeansalad103"> -<strong>Haricot Bean Salad</strong>.—This can be made from cold, boiled, -dried white haricot beans. Add plenty of chopped parsley, -rub the bowl with garlic, mix oil, pepper and salt first, vinegar -afterwards. -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p> -The nicest haricot bean salad is made from the fresh green -beans met with abroad. They can be obtained in this country -in tins, and a delicious salad can be had at a moment’s notice -by opening a tin, straining off the liquor, and drying the little -green beans, which are very soft and tender, and dressing them -with oil and vinegar, in the ordinary way. A little chopped -parsley, or garlic flavouring by rubbing the bowl, can be added -or not, according to taste. -</p> - -<p id="celerysalad103"> -<strong>Celery and Beet-root Salad</strong>.—A mixture of celery and -beet-root makes a very nice winter salad. The beet-root, of -course, is boiled, and the celery generally sliced up thin in a -raw state. It is a great improvement to boil the celery till it -is <em>nearly</em> tender. By this means you improve the salad, and -the celery assists in making vegetarian <a href="#stock021">stock</a>. -</p> - -<p id="watercresssalad103"> -<strong>Water-cress</strong>.—Water-cress is sometimes mixed with other -salad, but when eaten alone requires no dressing, but only a -little salt. -</p> - -<p id="dandelionsalad103"> -<strong>Dandelion Leaf Salad</strong>.—Considering that the root of the -dandelion is so largely used in medicine for making taraxacum, -it is to be regretted that the leaves of the plant are not utilised -in this country as they are abroad for making salad. These -leaves can be obtained in London at a few shops in the French -colony of Soho. The leaves are washed, dried, placed in a -salad-bowl, and dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary -way. -</p> - -<p id="cauliflowersalad104"> -<strong>Cauliflower Salad</strong>.—The remains of a cold boiled cauliflower -makes a very good salad if only the white part be used. It -can be mixed with remains of cold potatoes, some chopped -blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the top, and it can -be dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way; or it can -be served up with a sauce made from oiled butter similar to -that described for dressing cold asparagus. -</p> - -<p id="mustardandcresssalad104"> -<strong>Mustard and Cress</strong>.—This is somewhat similar to watercress. -When served alone it is generally dipped in salt and -eaten with bread-and-butter, but it is very useful to mix with -other kinds of salad. -</p> - -<p id="hopsalad104"> -<strong>Hop Salad</strong>.—In Germany a very nice salad is made from -young hops, which are grown very extensively in America and -Germany, as English brewers are well aware. The hops are -picked when quite young, before they get leafy; they are then -boiled till nearly tender. They can be dressed in the English -fashion with oil and vinegar, or in the German fashion with -vinegar and sugar. -</p> - -<p id="onionsalad104"> -<strong>Onion Salad</strong>.—Few people are aware of what an excellent -salad can be made from the remains of cold boiled Spanish -onions. Spanish onions can generally be bought at a penny a -pound. They are mild in flavour, very wholesome, and contain -a great deal of nourishment. Take a couple of cold boiled -Spanish onions, pull them into leaves after they are quite dry, -and dress them with a very little oil and vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="italiansalad104"> -<strong>Italian Salad</strong>.—This is a very delicious salad, met with in -Italy. It consists of a great variety of boiled vegetables, which -are placed in a mould and served in aspic jelly. This latter, -however, is not allowed in vegetarian cookery. A very good -imitation, however, can be made as follows:—First take as -many cold vegetables as you can, consisting of new potatoes, -sliced, and cut up with a cutter into pretty-looking shapes. -You can also take green peas, asparagus tops, cold boiled cauliflower, -French beans, beet-root, &c. These vegetables should -be dressed with a little oil, tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt, -and can be placed in a mould or plain round basin. This -basin can now be filled up with a little water thickened with -corn-flour, hot. When it is cold, it can be turned out and -sent to table in the shape of a mould. -</p> - -<p id="melonsalad105"> -<strong>Melon Salad</strong>.—Melon is sometimes served abroad as a -salad, and a slice of melon is often sent to table at the commencement -of dinner, to be eaten with a little salt, cayenne -pepper, and sometimes oil and vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="sweetsalad105"> -<strong>Salads, Sweet</strong>.—Apples, oranges, currants, pine-apple, and -bananas are sometimes served as salads with syrup and sugar. -They make a very nice mixture, or can be served separately. -When preserved pine-apples in tins are used for the purpose, -the syrup in the tin should be used for dressing the salad. -Whole ripe strawberries are a great improvement, as also a -wineglassful of brandy and a lump of ice. -</p> - -<p id="sandwiches105"> -<strong>Sandwiches</strong>.—There is an art in cutting sandwiches—a -fact which persons in the habit of frequenting railway restaurants -will hardly realise. A tinned loaf is best for the purpose if we -wish to avoid waste. The great thing is to have the two slices -of bread to fit together neatly, and there is no occasion to cut -off the crusts when made from a well-rasped tin loaf. First -cut off the crust from the top of the loaf, which, of course, -must be used for some other purpose. The best use for -this top slice is to toast it lightly on the crumby side, and -cut it up into little pieces to be served with soup. Next -take the loaf, cut off one thin slice, evenly, and let it fall -on its back on the board you are using. Now butter very -slightly the upper surface. Next butter the top of the loaf, -cut another thin slice, and, of course, these two pieces of -bread will be perfectly level, and, if the two buttered sides be -placed together, will fit round the edge exactly. -</p> - -<p id="tomatosandwiches105"> -<strong>Tomato Sandwiches</strong>.—Cut some very ripe red tomatoes -into thin slices, and cut them parallel with the core, as otherwise -you will get them in rings from which the core will drop -out. Sprinkle some thin slices of bread-and-butter with -mustard and cress, dip the slices of tomato into a dressing -made with a little oil, pepper, and salt, well mixed up. Put -these between the bread-and-butter, and cut them into -squares or triangles with a very sharp knife. These sandwiches are very cool and refreshing, and make a most -agreeable supper after a hot and crowded ball-room. If you -wish to have them look pretty, pile them up in the centre of a -silver dish, and place a few ripe red tomatoes round the base -on some bright green parsley. Place the dish in an ice-chest -for an hour before it is eaten. -</p> - -<p id="mustardandcresssandwiches106"> -<strong>Mustard and Cress Sandwiches</strong>.—Place well-washed and -dried mustard and cress between two slices of bread-and-butter, -and trim the edges. It is best to pepper and salt the bread-and-butter -first. Pile up the sandwiches on a silver dish, and -sprinkle some loose mustard and cress round the base. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandwiches106"> -<strong>Egg Sandwiches</strong>.—Cut some <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> into very -thin slices; season them with pepper and salt, and place them -between two slices of thin bread-and-butter; cut the sandwiches -into triangles or squares, pile them up in a silver dish, -place plenty of fresh green parsley round the base of the -dish, and place some hard-boiled eggs, cut in halves, on the -parsley, which will show what the sandwiches are composed -of. -</p> - -<p id="indiansandwiches106"> -<strong>Indian Sandwiches</strong>.—These are exactly similar to the -above, with the addition that the slices of <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> are seasoned with a little -curry-powder. If hard-boiled eggs in halves are placed round the base of -the dish, each half-egg should be sprinkled with curry-powder in order to -show what the sandwiches are. -</p> - -<p id="mushroomsandwiches106"> -<strong>Mushroom Sandwiches</strong>.—Take a pint of fresh button -mushrooms, peel them, and throw them into lemon-juice and -water, in order to preserve their colour; or else take the -contents of a tin of mushrooms, chop them up and stew -them in a frying-pan very gently with a little butter, pepper, -salt, a pinch of thyme, and the juice of a whole lemon to every -pint of mushrooms. When tender, rub the mixture through a -wise sieve while the butter is warm and the mixture moist. -Add a teaspoonful of finely chopped blanched parsley, spread -this mixture while still warm on a thin slice of bread, and -cover it over with another thin slice of bread, and press the -two slices of bread together. When the mixture gets quite -cold, the butter will set and the sandwiches get quite firm. -The bread need not be buttered, as the mixture contains butter -enough. Pile these sandwiches up on a silver dish, surround -the dish with plenty of fresh parsley, and place a few fresh -mushrooms whole, stalk and all, round them, as if they are -growing out of the parsley. -</p> - -<p id="cheesesandwiches107"> -<strong>Cheese Sandwiches</strong>.—Oil a little butter, add some -pepper and salt, and a spoonful of made mustard and a pinch of cayenne -pepper. When this mixture is nearly cold, use it for buttering some thin -slices of bread, and, before it is quite cold, sprinkle them with some -grated Parmesan cheese. Put the two slices of bread together and press -them, and, when cold,. cut them into squares or triangles. Place plenty of -fresh green parsley round the dish, and, if you are using <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> for other purposes, take the -end of the white of egg, which has a little cup in it not much bigger than -the top of the finger, and put a little heap of Parmesan cheese in each -cup. Place a few of these round the base of the dish, on the parsley, in -order to show what the sandwiches are composed of. -</p> - -<p id="creamcheesesandwiches107"> -<strong>Cream-Cheese Sandwiches</strong>.—Chop up some of the white -part of a head of celery very fine, and pound it in a mortar with -a little butter; season it with some salt. Use this mixture and -butter some thin slices of bread, place a thin slice of cream -cheese between these slices, cut the sandwiches into squares -or triangles with a very sharp knife, and pile the sandwiches -up on a silver dish. Surround the dish with parsley, and place -a few slices of cream-cheese, cut round the size of a halfpenny, -round the base, stick a little piece of the yellowish-white leaves -of the heart of celery in each piece. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter6">CHAPTER VI.</h2> - - <h3>SAVOURY DISHES.</h3> - - <h4 id="mushrooms108">MUSHROOMS.</h4> - - <p class="first"> - In many parts of the country mushrooms grow so plentifully that their - cost may be considered almost nothing. On the other hand, if they have - to be bought fresh, at certain seasons of the year they are very - expensive, while tinned mushrooms, which can always be depended upon, - cannot be regarded in any other light than that of a luxury. - </p> - - <p> - When mushrooms can be gathered in the fields like black-berries - they are a great boon to vegetarians. Of course, great - care must be taken that only genuine mushrooms are picked, - as there have been some terrible instances of poisoning from - fungi being gathered by mistake, as many Cockney tourists - know to their cost. As a rule, in England all mushrooms - bought in markets can be depended upon. In France, where - mushrooms are very plentiful, an inspector is appointed in - every market, and no mushrooms are allowed to be sold unless - they have first received his sanction. This is a wise precaution - in the right direction. - </p> - - <p> - One important word of warning before leaving the subject. - Mushrooms should be eaten <em>freshly gathered</em>, and, if allowed to - get stale, those which were perfectly wholesome when fresh - picked become absolutely poisonous. The symptoms are somewhat - similar to narcotic poisoning. This particularly applies - to the larger and coarser kind that give out black juice. - </p> - - <p id="plainmushrooms108"> - <strong>Mushrooms, Plain, Grilled</strong>.—The larger kinds of mushrooms - are best for the purpose. The flat mushrooms should be - washed, dried, and peeled. They are then cooked slowly over a - clear fire, and a small wire gridiron, like those sold at a penny - or twopence each, is better adapted for the purpose than the - ordinary gridiron used for grilling steak. The gridiron should - be kept high above the fire. The mushrooms should be dipped - in oil, or oiled butter, and care should be taken that they do not - stick to the bars. They should be served very hot, with pepper - and salt and a squeeze of lemon-juice. - </p> - - <p id="friedmushrooms109"> - <strong>Mushrooms, Fried</strong>.—When mushrooms are very small they - are more easily fried than grilled. They should be washed, - dried and peeled, placed in a frying-pan, with a little butter, - pepper and salt, and cooked till tender. They are very nice - served on toast, and the butter in which they are cooked can - be poured on the toast first, and the mushrooms arranged on - the top afterwards. A squeeze of lemon-juice is an improvement. - </p> - - <p id="mushroomsaugratin109"> - <strong>Mushrooms au gratin</strong>.—This is a very delicious dish, and - is often served as an entrée at first-class dinners. They are - made from what are known as cup mushrooms. It is best to - pick mushrooms, as far as possible, the same size, the cup - being about two inches in diameter. Peel the mushrooms very - carefully, without breaking them, cut out the stalks close down - with a spoon, scoop out the inside of the cup, so as to make it - hollow. Now peel the stalks and chop them up with all the - scooped part of the mushroom, with, supposing we are making - ten cups, a piece of onion as big as the top of the thumb down - to the first joint. To this add a brimming teaspoonful of - chopped parsley, or even a little more, a saltspoonful of dried - thyme, or half this quantity of fresh thyme. Fry all this in - a frying-pan, in a little butter. The aroma is delicious. Then - add sufficient dried bread-crumbs that have been rubbed - through a wire sieve to make the whole into a moist paste, - fill each of the cups with this mixture so that the top - is as convex as the cup of the mushroom, having first - seasoned the mixture with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. - Shake some fine bread-raspings over the top so as to - make them of a nice golden-brown colour, pour a little drop of - oil into a baking-tin, place the mushrooms in it, and bake them - gently in an oven till the cup part of the mushroom becomes - soft and tender, but take care they do not cook till they break. - Now take them out carefully with an egg-slice, and place them - on a dish—a silver dish is best for the purpose-and place some - nice, crisp, fried parsley round the edge. - </p> - - <p id="mushroomsalabordelaise110"> - <strong>Mushrooms à la Bordelaise</strong>.—This, as the - name implies, is a French recipe. It consists of ordinary <a - href="#plainmushrooms108">grilled mushrooms</a>, served in a sauce - composed of oil or oiled butter, chopped up with parsley and garlic, - thickened with the yolks of eggs. - </p> - - <p id="mushroomsalaprovencale110"> - <strong>Mushrooms à la Provençale</strong>.—This is an Italian recipe. - You must first wash, peel, and dry the mushrooms, and then - soak them for some time in what is called a <em>marinade</em>, which is - another word for pickle, of oil mixed with chopped garlic, - pepper, and salt. They are then stewed in oil with plenty of - chopped parsley over rather a brisk fire. Squeeze, a little - lemon-juice over them and serve them in a dish surrounded - with a little fried or toasted bread. - </p> - - <p id="mushroomforcemeat110"> - <strong>Mushroom Forcemeat</strong>.—The mushrooms after being - cleaned should be chopped up and fried in a little butter; lemon-juice - should be added before they are chopped in order to preserve their - colour. One or two <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled yolks of - eggs</a> can be added to the mixture, and the whole rubbed through a - wire sieve while hot. When the mixture is hot it should be moist, but, - of course, when it gets cold, owing to the butter it will be hard. This - mushroom forcemeat can be used for a variety of purposes. - </p> - - <p id="mushroompie110"> - <strong>Mushroom Pie</strong>.—Wash, dry, and peel some mushrooms, - and cut them into slices with an equal quantity of cut-up - potatoes. Bake these in a pie, having first moistened the potatoes - and mushrooms in a little butter. Add pepper and salt - and a small pinch of thyme. Cover them with a little water - and put some paste over the dish in the ordinary way. It is a - great improvement, after the pie is baked, to pour in some - essence of mushrooms made from stewing the stalks and peelings - in a little water. A single onion should be put in with - them. - </p> - - <p id="coldmushroompie110"> - <strong>Mushroom Pie, Cold</strong>.—Prepare the mushrooms, potatoes, - and essence of mushroom as directed above, adding a little - chopped parsley. Bake all these in the dish before you cover - with paste, add also an extra seasoning of pepper. When the - mushrooms and potatoes are perfectly tender, strain off all - the juice or gravy, and thicken it with corn-flour; put this - back in the pie-dish and mix all well together, and pile it up in - the middle of the dish so that the centre is raised above the - edge. Let this get quite cold, then cover it with puff-paste, - and as soon as the pastry is done take it out of the oven and - let the pie get cold. This can now be cut in slices. - </p> - - <p id="mushroompudding111"> - <strong>Mushroom Pudding</strong>.—Make a mixture of mushrooms, - potatoes, &c., exactly similar to that for making a pie. Place - this in a basin with only sufficient water to moisten the ingredients, - cover the basin with bread-crumbs soaked in milk, - and steam the basin in the ordinary way. - </p> - - <p id="grilledtomatoes111"> - <strong>Tomatoes, Grilled</strong>.— What is necessary is a clear - fire and a gridiron in which the bars are not too far apart. The - disputed point is, should the tomatoes be grilled whole or cut in half? - This may be considered a matter of taste, but personally we prefer them - grilled whole. Moisten the tomato in a little oil or oiled butter, and - grill them carefully, as they are apt to break. Grilled tomatoes are - very nice with plain boiled <a href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a>, or can - be served up on <a href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a>. - </p> - - <p id="bakedtomatoes111"> - <strong>Tomatoes, Baked</strong>.—Place the tomatoes in a tin - with a little butter, and occasionally baste them with the butter. When - they are tender, they can be served either plain or with boiled <a - href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a> or <a href="#boiledrice061">rice</a>. - The butter and juice in the tin should be poured over them. - </p> - - <p id="friedtomatoes111"> - <strong>Tomatoes, Fried</strong>.—Place the tomatoes in a - frying-pan with a little butter, and fry them until they are tender. - Pour the contents of the frying-pan over them, serve plain, or with - <a href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a> or <a href="#boiledrice061">rice</a>. - </p> - - <p id="stewedtomatoes111"> - <strong>Tomatoes, Stewed</strong>.—Take half a dozen good-sized - tomatoes, and chop up very finely one onion about the same size as the - tomatoes. Moisten the bottom of a stew-pan with a little butter, and - sprinkle the chopped onion over the tomatoes. Add a dessertspoonful of - water; place the lid on the stewpan, which ought to fit tightly. It is - best to put a weight on the lid of the stew-pan, such as a flat-iron. - Place the stew-pan on the fire, and let them steam till they are - tender. They are cooked this way in Spain and Portugal, and very often - chopped garlic is used instead of onion. - </p> - - <p id="tomatoesaugratin111"> - <strong>Tomatoes au gratin</strong>.—Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, - cut off the stalks, and squeeze out time juice and pips. Next take a - few mushrooms and make a mixture exactly similar to that which was used - to fill the inside of <a href="#mushroomsaugratin109">Mushrooms au - gratin</a>. Fill each tomato with some of this mixture, so that it - assumes its original shape and tight skin. The top or hole where the - stalk was cut out will probably be about the size of a shilling or - halfpenny. Shake some bright-coloured bread raspings over this spot - without letting them fall on the red tomato. In order to do this, cut a - round hole the right size in a stiff piece of paper. Place the tomatoes - in a stew-pan or a baking-dish in the oven, moistened with a little - oil. The oil should be about the eighth of an inch deep. Stew or bake - the tomatoes till they are tender, and then take them out carefully - with an egg-slice, and serve them surrounded with fried parsley. If - placed in a silver dish this has a very pretty appearance. - </p> - - <p id="tomatopie112"> - <strong>Tomato Pie</strong>.—Slice up an equal number of ripe tomatoes - and potatoes. Place them in a pie-dish with enough oiled - butter to moisten them. Add a brimming teaspoonful of - chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, pepper, and salts and, if - possible, a few peeled mushrooms, which will be found to be a - very great improvement. Cover the pie with paste, and bake - in the oven. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>Tomato Pie (another way)</strong>.—Proceed as in making an - ordinary potato pie. Add a small bottle of tomato conserve, - cover with paste, and bake in the ordinary way. - </p> - - <p id="potatopie112"> - <strong>Potato Pie</strong>.—Peel and slice up some potatoes as thin as - possible. At the same time slice up some onions. If Spanish - onions are used allow equal quantities of potatoes and onions, - but if ordinary onions are used allow only half this quantity. - Place a layer of sliced onion and sliced potato alternately. Add - some pepper, salt, and sufficient butter to moisten the potato - and butter before any water is added. Pour in some water - and add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, cover the pie with - paste, and bake in the ordinary way. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>Potato Pie (another way)</strong>.—Butter a shallow - pie-dish rather thickly. Line the edges with a good crust, and then - fill the pie with mashed potatoes seasoned with pepper, salt, and - grated nutmeg. Lay over them some small lumps of butter, <a - href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, blanched almonds, - sliced dates, sliced lemon and candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry - and bake the pie in a well-heated oven for half an hour or more, - according to the size of the pie. - </p> - - <p id="pumpkinpie113"> - <strong>Pumpkin Pie</strong>.—Peel a ripe pumpkin and chip off the rind - or skin, halve it, and take out the seed and fluffy part in the - centre, which throw away. Cut the pumpkin into small, thin - slices, fill a pie-dish therewith, add to it half a teaspoonful of - allspice and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a small quantity of - water. Cover with a nice light paste and bake in the ordinary - way. Pumpkin pie is greatly unproved by being eaten with - Devonshire cream and sugar. An equal quantity of apples - with the pumpkin will make a still more delicious pie. - </p> - - <p id="pumpkinpudding113"> - <strong>Pumpkin Pudding</strong>.—Take a large pumpkin, pare it, and - remove the seeds. Cut half of it into thin slices, and boil these - gently in water until they are quite soft, then rub them through - a fine sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Measure the - pulp, and with each pint put four ounces of butter and a large - nutmeg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, - then add the third of a pint of hot milk and four well-beaten - eggs. Pour the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a - moderate oven for about an hour. Sugar may be added to taste. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>Potato Cheesecake</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a - href="#potatocheesecake169">CHEESECAKES</a>.) - </p> - - <p id="cheeseandfriedbread113"> - <strong>Cheese with Fried Bread</strong>.—Take some stale bread, and cut - it into strips about three inches long and one wide and one - inch thick. Fry the bread in some butter or oil till it is a - nice bright golden colour. Spread a layer of made mustard - over the strips of fried bread, and then cover them with grated - Parmesan cheese, pile them up on a dish, and place them in the - oven. As soon as the cheese begins to melt serve them very hot. - </p> - - <p id="cheesesavoury113"> - <strong>Cheese, Savoury</strong>.—Take equal quantities of grated Parmesan - cheese, butter, and flour; add a little salt and cayenne - pepper, make these into a paste with some water, roll out the - paste thin till it is about a quarter of an inch thick; cut it - into strips and bake them in the oven till they are a nice - brown, and serve hot. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>Cheese Soufflé</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a - href="#cheesesouffle092">OMELETS</a>.) - </p> - - <p id="cheesepudding114"> - <strong>Cheese Pudding.</strong>—Mix half a pound of grated Parmesan - cheese with four eggs, well beaten up; mix in also two ounces - of butter, which should be first beaten to a cream, add half a - pint of milk and pour the mixture into a well-buttered pie-dish, - sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese over the top, and bake in - the oven for about half an hour. The pudding will be lighter if - two of the whites of eggs are beaten to a stiff froth. The edge of - the pie-dish can be lined with puff-paste. - </p> - - <p id="cheeseramequins114"> - <strong>Cheese Ramequins.</strong>—Put half a pound of grated Parmesan - cheese in a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter and a - quarter of a pint of water; add a little pepper and salt, and as - much flour as will make the whole into a thick paste. Mix up - with the paste as many well-beaten-up eggs as will make the - paste not too liquid to be moulded into a shape. The eggs - should be beaten till they froth. Now, with a tablespoon, - mould this mixture into shapes like a meringue or egg; place - these on a buttered tin and bake them till they are a nice - brown colour. - </p> - - <p id="stewedcheese114"> - <strong>Cheese, Stewed.</strong>—When the remains of cheese have got very - dry it is a good plan to use it up in the shape of stewed cheese. - Break up the cheese and put it in a small stew-pan with about - a quarter its weight of butter; add a little milk, and let the - cheese stew gently till it is dissolved. At the finish, and when - you have removed it from the fire, add a well-beaten-up egg. - This can be served on toast, or it can be poured on to a dish - and pieces of toasted bread stuck in it. - </p> - - <p id="cheesestraws114"> - <strong>Cheese Straws.</strong>—Mix equal quantities of grated Parmesan - cheese, grated bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a - wire sieve, butter, and flour; add a little cayenne and grated - nutmeg. Make it into a thick paste, roll it out very thin, cut - it into strips, and bake for a few minutes in a fierce oven. - </p> - - <p id="toastedcheese114"> - <strong>Cheese, Toasted.</strong>—This is best done in a Dutch oven, so - that when one side is toasted you can turn the oven and toast - the back; as soon as the cheese begins to melt it is done. As - it gets cold very quickly, and when cold gets hard, it is best - served on hot-water plates. - </p> - - <p id="devilledcheese114"> - <strong>Cheese, Devilled.</strong>—Chop up some hot pickles, add some - cayenne pepper and mustard. Melt some cheese in a stew-pan - with a little butter, mix in the pickles, and serve on toast. - </p> - - <p id="welshrarebit115"> - <strong>Welsh Rarebit.</strong>—Toast a large slice of bread; in the meantime - melt some cheese in the saucepan with a little butter. - When the cheese is melted it will be found that a good deal of - oiled butter floats on the top. Pour this over the dry toast - first, and then pour the melted cheese afterwards. Some - persons add a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce to the cheese, - and others a tablespoonful of good old Burton ale over - the top. - </p> - - <p id="ayoli115"> - <strong>Ayoli.</strong>—This is a dish almost peculiar to the South of - France. Soak some crusts of bread in water, squeeze them - dry, and add two cloves of garlic chopped fine, six blanched - almonds, also chopped very fine, and a yolk of an egg; mix up - the whole into a smooth paste with a little oil. - </p> - - <p id="pumpkinalaparmesane115"> - <strong>Pumpkin à la Parmesane.</strong>—Cut a large pumpkin into - square pieces and boil them for about a quarter of an hour in - salt and water, and take them out, drain them, and put them - in a stew-pan with a little butter, salt, and grated nutmeg; - fry them, sprinkle them with a little Parmesan cheese, and - bake them for a short time in the oven till the cheese begins to - melt, and then serve. This is an Italian recipe. - </p> - - <p id="zuchettifarcis115"> - <strong>Zucchetti farcis.</strong>—Take some very small gourds or - pumpkins, boil them for about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, - and then fill them with a forcemeat made as follows: Take some crumb of - bread and soak it in milk, squeeze it and add the yolks of two <a - href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> and two raw yolks; chop - up very finely half a dozen blanched almonds with a couple of cloves; - add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little salt and grated - nutmeg. Stew these gourds in butter and serve them with <a - href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>. - </p> - - <p id="stuffedonions115"> - <strong>Stuffed Onions (Italian fashion).</strong>—Parboil some large - onions, stamp out the core after they have been allowed to - get quite cold in a little water; fill the inside with forcemeat - similar to the above; fry then), squeeze the juice of a lemon - over them, with a little pepper. - </p> - - <p id="polenta115"> - <strong>Polenta.</strong>—Polenta is made from ground Indian corn, and is - seen in Italian shop-windows in the form of a yellow powder; - it is made into a paste with boiling water, sprinkled with Parmesan - cheese, and baked in the oven. - </p> - - <p id="piroskisernikis116"> - <strong>Piroski Sernikis.</strong>—This dish is met with in Poland, and is - made by mixing up two pounds of cream-cheese, three-quarters - of a pound of fine bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through - a wire sieve, six eggs well beaten up; add a little cream or - milk, four ounces of washed grocer’s currants, one ounce of - sugar, half a grated nutmeg; and when the whole is thoroughly - mixed add as much flour as is necessary to make the whole - into a paste that can be rolled into balls. These balls should - not be much bigger than a walnut. Flour them, and then - flatten them into little cakes and fry them a nice brown in - some butter. - </p> - - <p> - Of course, a smaller quantity can be made by using these - ingredients in proportion. - </p> - - <p id="nalesnikis116"> - <strong>Nalesnikis (Polish Pancakes).</strong>—Take eight eggs and beat - them up very thoroughly with about a pint and a half of milk, - or still better, cream, two ounces of butter that has been oiled, - half a grated nutmeg, and about a dozen lumps of sugar that - have been rubbed on the outside of a lemon; mix in sufficient - flour—about three-quarters of a pound will be required—to - make the whole into a very smooth batter. Melt a little butter - in a frying-pan, pour it all over the pan, and when it frizzles, - pour in some of the batter, and sprinkle over a few currants; - when the pancake is fried, shake some powdered sugar over it, - roll it up like an ordinary pancake, and serve hot. - </p> - -<h4 id="fritters116">FRITTERS.</h4> - -<p id="fritterbatter116"> -<strong>Batter for Savoury Fritters.</strong>—Put six ounces of flour into -a basin, with a pinch of salt, the yolk of one egg, and a quarter -of a pint of warm water. Work this round and round with a -wooden spoon till it is perfectly smooth and looks like thick -cream. About half an hour before the batter is wanted for -use whip the white of one egg to a stiff froth and mix it -lightly in. -</p> - -<p id="mushroomfritters116"> -<strong>Mushroom Fritters.</strong>—Make some <a -href="#mushroomforcemeat110">mushroom forcemeat</a>; let -it get quite cold on a dish about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out some -small rounds, about the size of a penny-piece. They fry better if slightly -oval. Have ready some thick batter (<em>See</em> <a -href="#fritterbatter116">BATTER</a>). Have also ready in a saucepan some -boiling oil, which should be heated to about 350°. Place a -frying-basket in the saucepan, flour the rounds of mushroom forcemeat so as -to make them perfectly dry on the outside. Dip these pieces into the batter -and throw them into the boiling oil. The great heat of the oil will set the -batter before the mushroom forcemeat has time to melt. Directly the batter -is a nice light-brown colour, lift them out of the boiling oil with the -frying-basket, and throw them on to a cloth to drain. Break off the outside -pieces of batter, and serve the fritters on a neatly folded napkin on a -dish surrounded by fried parsley. -</p> - -<p> -The beauty of these fritters is that when they are eaten the -inside is moist, owing, of course, to the heat having melted the -forcemeat. -</p> - -<p id="tomatofritters117"> -<strong>Tomato Fritters</strong>.—Make some <a -href="#mushroomforcemeat110">mushroom forcemeat</a> and spread it out as -thin as possible. Take some ripe tomatoes, cut them in slices, dip the -slice in vinegar, drain it and pepper it, and then wrap this thin slice of -tomato in a layer of mushroom forcemeat. Bring the edges together, flour -it, dip it into batter (<em>see</em> <a -href="#fritterbatter116">BATTER</a>), and throw it into boiling oil as in -making mushroom fritters (<em>see</em> <a -href="#mushroomfritters116">MUSHROOM FRITTERS</a>). -</p> - -<p id="gamefritters117"> -<strong>Imitation Game Fritters</strong>.—Make some mushroom -forcemeat as directed under the heading “<a -href="#mushroomforcemeat110">Mushroom Forcemeat</a>,” -with the addition of, when you fry the mushrooms, chop up and fry with them -two heads of garlic, and add a saltspoonful of <a -href="#herbaciousmixture032">aromatic flavouring herbs</a>. -(These, are sold in bottles by all grocers under the name of -“Herbaceous Mixture.”) Then proceed exactly as if you were -making mushroom fritters (<em>see</em> <a -href="#mushroomfritters116">MUSHROOM FRITTERS</a>). -</p> - -<p id="hominyfritters117"> -<strong>Hominy Fritters</strong>.—These are made from remains of cold -boiled hominy, cut in thin slices, which must be dipped in -batter and fried in boiling oil. -</p> - -<p id="cheesefritters117"> -<strong>Cheese Fritters</strong>.—Pound some dry cheese, or take about -three ounces of Parmesan cheese, and mix it with a few -bread-crumbs, a piece of butter, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and -the yolk of an egg, till the whole becomes a thick paste. Roll -the mixture into very small balls, flatten them, flour them, dip -them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil in the -ordinary way. Put them in the oven for five minutes before -serving them. -</p> - -<p id="sageandonionfritters118"> -<strong>Sage and Onion Fritters.</strong>—Make some ordinary sage and -onion stuffing, allowing one fresh sage leaf or two dried to -each parboiled onion; add pepper and salt and dried breadcrumbs. -Now moisten the whole with clarified butter, till the -mixture becomes a moist pulp. When it begins to get cold and -sets, roll it into small balls, the size of a very small walnut, -flatten these and let them get quite cold, then flour them, dip -them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil; remove them -with the frying-basket, and serve with fried parsley. -</p> - -<p id="spinachfritters118"> -<strong>Spinach Fritters.</strong>—Make a little thick purée -of spinach, add a pinch of savoury herbs containing marjoram; mix in a -little clarified butter and one or two lumps of sugar rubbed on the outside -of a lemon, as well as a little grated nutmeg. Roll the mixture into very -small ball; or else they will break, flatten them, flour them, dip them -into batter, and throw them into boiling oil, and serve immediately. -</p> - -<p id="sweetfritters118"> -<strong>Fritters, Sweet.</strong>—In making sweet fritters, the same kind -of batter will do as we used for making savoury fritters, though -many cooks add a little powdered sugar. The same principles -hold good. The oil must be heated to a temperature of 350∞, and -a frying-basket must be used. Instead of flouring the substances -employed to make them dry, before being dipped into the batter, -which is an essential point in making fritters, we must use finely -powdered sugar, and it will be found a saving of both time and -trouble to buy pounded sugar for the purpose. It is sold by -grocers under the name of castor sugar. We cannot make this -at home in a pestle and mortar to the same degree of fineness -any more than we could grind our own flour. We cannot compete -with machinery. -</p> - -<p id="applefritters118"> -<strong>Apple Fritters.</strong>—Peel some apples, cut them in slices -across the core, and stamp out the core. It is customary, -where wine, &c., is not objected to, to soak these rings of -apples for several hours in a mixture of brandy, grated lemon -or orange peel and sugar, or better still, to rub some lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon or orange and dissolve this -in the brandy. Of course, brandy is not necessary, but the -custom is worth mentioning. The rings of apple can be -soaked for some time in syrup flavoured this way. They must -then be made dry by being dipped in powdered sugar, then -dipped into batter and thrown, one at a time, into a saucepan -containing smoking hot oil in which a wire frying-basket has -been placed. Directly the fritters are a nice brown, take them -out, break off the rough pieces, shake some finely powdered -sugar over them, pile them up on a dish, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="apricotfritters119"> -<strong>Apricot Fritters.</strong>—These can be made from fresh apricots or -tinned ones, not too ripe; if they break they are not fitted. When -made from fresh apricots they should be peeled, cut in halves, the -round end removed, dipped in powdered sugar, then dipped in -batter, thrown into boiling oil, and finished like apple fritters. -Some persons soak the apricots in brandy. -</p> - -<p id="bananafritters119"> -<strong>Banana Fritters.</strong>—Banana fritters can be made from the -bananas as sold in this country, and it is a mistake to think -that when they are black outside they are bad. When in -this state they are sometimes sold as cheap as six a penny. -Peel the bananas, cut them into slices half an inch thick, dip -them into finely powdered sugar and then into batter, and -finish as directed in apple fritters. -</p> - -<p> -Some persons soak the slices of banana in maraschino. -</p> - -<p id="custardfritters119"> -<strong>Custard Fritters.</strong>—Take half a pint of cream in which some -cinnamon and lemon have been boiled, add to this five yolks of -eggs, a little flour, and about three ounces of sugar. Put this -into a pie-dish, well buttered, and steam it till the custard -becomes quite set; then let it get cold, and cut it into slices -about half an inch thick and an inch and a half long, sprinkle -each piece with a little powdered cinnamon, and make it quite -dry with some powdered sugar. Then dip each piece into -batter, throw them one by one into boiling oil, and finish as -directed for <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p id="variousfritters119"> -<strong>Almond Fritters, Chocolate Fritters, Coffee Fritters, -Vanilla Fritters, &c.</strong>—These fritters are made exactly in -the same way as custard fritters, only substituting powdered -chocolate, pounded almonds, essence of coffee, or essence of -vanilla, for the powdered cinnamon. -</p> - -<p id="frangipanefritters120"> -<strong>Frangipane Fritters.</strong>—Make a Frangipane cream by -mixing eggs with a little cold potato, butter, sugar, and powdered -ratafias, the proportion being a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, -six ounces of sugar, one cold floury potato, and a quarter of a pound of -ratafias. Bake or steam this until it is set, and proceed as in <a -href="#custardfritters119">custard fritters</a>. Many persons add the -flavouring of a little rum. -</p> - -<p id="peachfritters120"> -<strong>Peach Fritters.</strong>—These are made exactly similar to apricot -fritters, bearing in mind that if they are made from tinned -peaches only the firm pieces, and not pulpy ones, must be used -for the purpose. Proceed exactly as directed for <a -href="#apricotfritters119">apricot -fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p> -If any liqueur is used, noyeau is best adapted for the -purpose. -</p> - -<p id="potatofritters120"> -<strong>Potato Fritters.</strong>—Mix up some floury potato with a quarter -of a pound of butter, a well-beaten-up egg, and three ounces of -sugar, some of which has been rubbed on the outside of a lemon. -The addition of a little cream is a great improvement. Roll -the mixture into small balls and flour them; they are then -fried just as they are, without being dipped into batter. -</p> - -<p id="pineapplefritters120"> -<strong>Pine-apple Fritters.</strong>—These can be made from fresh -pine-apples or tinned. They should be cut into slices like apple fritters -if the pine-apple is small, but if the pine-apple is large they can be cut -into strips three inches long and one wide and half an inch thick. These -must be dipped in powdered sugar, then into batter, and finished as -directed for <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p> -If any liqueur is used, maraschino is best adapted to the -purpose. -</p> - -<p id="orangefritters120"> -<strong>Orange Fritters.</strong>—Only first-class oranges are adapted for -this purpose. Thick-skinned and woolly oranges are no use. -Peel a thin-skinned ripe orange, divide each orange into about -six pieces, soak these in a syrup flavoured with sugar rubbed -on the outside of an orange, and if liqueur is used make the -syrup with brandy. After they have soaked some time, remove -any pips, dip each piece into hatter, and proceed as -directed for <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p id="creamfritters120"> -<strong>Cream Fritters.</strong>—Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside -of an orange, pound them, and mix with a little cream; take -some small pieces of stale white cake, such as Madeira cake -or what the French call brioche. Soak these pieces of stale -cake, which must be cut small and thin, or they will break, in -the orange-flavoured cream, dry each piece in some finely-powdered -sugar, dip it into batter, and proceed as directed for -making <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p id="germanfritters121"> -<strong>German Fritters.</strong>—Take some small stale pieces of cake, -and soak them in a little milk or cream flavoured with essence -of vanilla and sweetened with a little sugar. Take them out, -and let them get a little dry on the outside, then dip them in a -well-beaten-up egg, cover them with bread-crumbs, and fry a -nice golden-brown colour. -</p> - -<p id="riceandgingerfritters121"> -<strong>Rice and Ginger Fritters.</strong>—Boil a small quantity of -rice in milk and add some preserved ginger chopped small, some sugar, and -one or more eggs, sufficient to set the mixture when baked in a pie-dish. -Bake till set, then cut into slices about two inches long, an inch wide, -and half an inch thick; dry these pieces with powdered sugar, dip into -batter, and finish as directed for making <a href="#applefritters118">apple -fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p id="ricefritters121"> -<strong>Rice Fritters.</strong>—A variety of fritters could be made -from a small baked rice pudding, flavoured with various kinds of essences, -spices, orange marmalade, peach marmalade, fresh lime marmalade, <a -href="#apricotjam164">apricot -jam</a>, &c., proceeding exactly as directed above. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter7">CHAPTER VII.</h2> - - <h3>VEGETABLES.</h3> - - <h4>SUBSTANTIAL VEGETABLES.</h4> - -<p class="first"> -Vegetables may be roughly divided into two classes—those -that may be called substantial and which are adapted to form -a meal in themselves, and those of a lighter kind, which cannot -be said to make a sufficient repast unless eaten with bread. -</p> - -<p> -Potatoes were first introduced into this country about 400 -years ago, tobacco being introduced about the same period, -and we cannot disguise the fact that there are many who regard -the latter as the greater blessing of the two. If Sir Henry -Thompson is right in stating that tobacco is the great ally of -temperance, there may be some ground for this opinion. -</p> - -<p> -Potatoes form an important article of food for the body, -while, whatever effect tobacco may have upon the thinking -powers of mankind, it is almost the only product of -the vegetable kingdom that is absolutely uneatable even -when placed within the reach of those in the last stage of -starvation. -</p> - -<p> -In some parts, especially in Ireland, potatoes form almost -the only food of the population, just as rice does in hotter -climates, and when the crop fails famine ensues. When -potatoes form the only kind of food, a very large quantity has -to be eaten by a hard-working man in order for him to receive -sufficient nourishment to keep his body healthy, the amount -required being not less than ten pounds per day. If, on the -other hand, a certain amount of fat or oil of some kind be -mixed with them, a far less quantity will suffice. Hence we -find in Ireland that, wherever it is possible, either some kind -of oily fish, such as herring, is taken with them, or, which is -much more to the point with vegetarians, a certain quantity -of fat is obtained in the shape of milk. -</p> - -<p> -It must also be remembered that four pounds of raw -potatoes contain only one pound of solid food, the remaining -three pounds being water. It is important, for those who first -commence a vegetarian diet, to remember that vegetables like -peas, haricot beans, and lentils are far superior to potatoes so far -as nourishment is concerned, for many are apt to jump to the -conclusion that potatoes are the very best substitute for bread -and milk. So, too, is oatmeal. A Scotchman requires a -far less quantity of oatmeal to sustain life than an Irishman -does potatoes; hence it is a very important point to remember -that, if we depend upon potatoes to any great extent for our -daily food, we should cook them in such a manner as to -entail as little waste as possible. We will now try and -explain, as briefly as possible, the best method of serving. -</p> - -<p id="plainboiledpotatoes123"> -<strong>Potatoes, Plain Boiled.</strong>—The best method of having -potatoes, if we wish to study economy, is to boil them in their -jackets, as it is generally admitted that the most nourishing -part is that which lies nearest to the skin. There are many -houses in the country where an inexperienced cook will peel, -say four pounds of potatoes, and throw the peel into the -pig-tub, where the pig gets a better meal than the family. -</p> - -<p> -When potatoes are boiled in their skins, they should be -thoroughly washed and scrubbed with a hard brush. Old -potatoes should be put into cold water, and when the water -boils the time should a good deal depend upon the size of the -potatoes. When the potatoes are large, the chief principle to -be borne in mind is, do not let them boil too quickly or cook -too quickly. We must avoid having the outside pulpy while -the inside is hard. The water, which should be slightly salted, -should more than cover them, and, if the potatoes are very -large, directly the water comes to the boil it is a good plan to -throw in a little cold water to take it off the boil. It is quite -impossible to lay down any exact law in regard to boiling -potatoes. We cannot do more than give general principles -which can only be carried out by cooks who possess a little -common sense. -</p> - -<p> -Small new potatoes are an extreme in one direction. -They should be thrown into boiling water, and are generally -cooked in about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. Large -old potatoes should be put into cold water and, as we have -stated, the water should not be allowed to boil too soon, and -it will take very often an hour to boil them properly. Between -these two extremes there is a gradually ascending scale which -must be left to the judgment of the cook. It is as impossible -to lay down any hard-and-fast line with regard to time in -boiling potatoes as it would be to say at what exact point in -the thermometer between freezing and 80∞ in the shade a man -should put on his top coat. -</p> - -<p> -If we may be allowed the expression, “old new” potatoes -should be thrown into neither boiling water nor cold water, -but lukewarm water. Again, in boiling potatoes, especially -in the case of old ones, some little allowance must be made -for the time of year. In winter, they require longer time, -and we may here mention the fact that it is very important -that potatoes, after they are dug, should not be left out of -doors and exposed to a hard frost, as in this case a chemical -change takes place in which the starch is converted into -sugar. -</p> - -<p> -When potatoes are boiled in their jackets sufficiently, -which fact is generally tested by sticking a steel fork into -them, they should be strained off, and allowed to get dry for -a few minutes in the saucepan, which should be removed from -the fire, as at times the potatoes are apt to stick and burn. -</p> - -<p> -When large potatoes are peeled before they are boiled, we -should endeavour to send them to table floury, and this is -often said to be the test of a really good cook. After the -water has been strained off from the potatoes, a dry cloth -should be placed under the lid of the saucepan, and the lid -should only be placed half on, <em>i.e.</em>, it should not be fitted down -tight. It is also as well to give the saucepan now and then a -shake, but do not overdo the shaking and break them. About -five or ten minutes is generally sufficient. -</p> - -<p id="steamedpotatoes124"> -<strong>Potatoes, Steamed.</strong>—Potatoes can be steamed in their -jackets, and it is a more economical method than peeling. It -should be remembered, however, that steam is hotter than -boiling water. If plain water is underneath and boils -furiously, and the steam is well shut in, they will cook very -quickly; but if, as is generally the case, something else is in -the saucepan under the steamer, boiling gently, this does not -apply. We refer to the ordinary steamer met with in private -houses, and not to the ones used in the large hotels and -restaurants. -</p> - -<p id="bakedpotatoes125"> -<strong>Potatoes, Baked</strong>.—When potatoes are baked in the oven -in their jackets the larger they are the better. The oven -must not be too fierce, and ample time should be allowed. -Baked potatoes require quite two hours. This only refers to -those baked in their jackets. When potatoes are cut up and -baked in a tin they require some kind of fat, which, of -course, in vegetarian cookery must be either oil or butter. -</p> - -<p id="mashedpotatoes125"> -<strong>Potatoes, Mashed</strong>.—What may be termed high-class -mashed potatoes are made by mashing up ordinary boiled -potatoes with a little milk <em>previously boiled</em>, a little butter, -and passing the whole through a wire sieve, when a little -cream, butter and salt is added. -</p> - -<p> -In private houses mashed potatoes are generally made from -the remains of cold boiled potatoes, or when the cook, in -boiling the potatoes, has made a failure. Still, of course, potatoes -are boiled often expressly for the purpose of being mashed. -This is often the case where old potatoes have to be cut into -all sorts of shapes and sizes in order to get rid of the black -spots. As soon as the potatoes are boiled they are generally -moistened in the saucepan with a little drop of milk. It is -undoubtedly an improvement, and also entails very little extra -trouble, to boil the milk first. There is a difference in flavour, -which is very marked, between milk that has been boiled and -raw milk. Suppose you have coffee for breakfast, add boiling -milk to one cup and raw milk to another, and then see how -great a difference there will be in the flavour of the two. A -little butter should be added to mashed potatoes, but it is not -really essential. Mashed potatoes can be served in the shape -of a mould, that is, they can be shaped in a mould and then -browned in the oven. If you serve mashed potatoes in an -ordinary dish, and pile them up in the shape of a dome, the -dish will look much prettier if you score it round with a -fork and then place the dish in a fairly fierce even; the edges -will brown, but be careful that they don’t get burnt black. -</p> - -<p id="friedpotatoes126"> -<strong>Potatoes, Fried.</strong>—The best lesson, if you wish to fry -potatoes nicely, is to look in at the window of a fried fish shop, -where every condition is fulfilled that is likely to lead to -perfection. The bath of oil is deep and smoking hot, and in -sufficient quantity not to lose greatly in temperature on the -introduction of the frying-basket containing the potatoes. -The potatoes must be cut up into small pieces, not much bigger -in thickness than the little finger; these are plunged into the -smoking hot oil, and as soon as they are <em>slightly</em> browned on -the outside they are done. They acquire a darker colour after -they are removed from the oil, and the inside will go on -cooking for several minutes. It would be quite impossible to -eat fried potatoes directly they are taken out of the fat, as -they would burn the mouth terribly. It is best to throw the -fried potatoes into a cloth for a few seconds. -</p> - -<p id="potatochips126"> -<strong>Potato Chips.</strong>—Potato chips are ordinary fried potatoes -cut up when raw into little pieces about the size and thickness -of a lucifer match. They, of course, will cook very quickly. -They should be removed from the oil directly they <em>begin</em> to -turn colour. -</p> - -<p id="potatoribbon126"> -<strong>Potato Ribbon.</strong>—Potato ribbon is simply ordinary fried -potatoes, in which the raw potato is cut in the shape of a -ribbon. You take a potato and peel it in the ordinary way. -You then take this and, with not too sharp a knife, peel it like -apple, making the strip as long as you can, like children -sometimes do when they throw the apple peel over their -shoulders to see what letter it will make. You can go on -peeling the potato round and round till there is none left. -These ribbons are thrown into boiling oil, and must be removed -as soon as they begin to turn colour. When piled up in a -dish they look very pretty, and with a little pepper and salt, -and a squeeze of lemon-juice, make an excellent meal when eaten -with bread. -</p> - -<p id="sauteepotatoes126"> -<strong>Potato Sauté.</strong>—This dish is more frequently met with -abroad than in England, except in foreign restaurants. It is -made by taking the remains of ordinary plain-boiled potatoes -that are not floury. These are cut up into small pieces about -the size of the thumb, no particular shape being necessary. -They are thrown into a frying-pan with a little butter, and -fried gently till the edges begin to brown; they are served with -chopped parsley and pepper and salt. The butter should be -poured over the potatoes, and supplies the fatty element which -potato lacks. -</p> - -<p id="potatoesalamaitredhotel127"> -<strong>Potatoes à la Maître -d’Hôtel</strong>.—These are very similar to potato -sauté, the difference being that they are not browned at the edges. -Small kidney potatoes are best for the purpose. These must be boiled till -tender, and the potatoes then cut into slices. These must be warmed up with -a spoonful or two of white sauce (<em>see</em> <a -href="#whitesauce059">WHITE SAUCE</a>), to which is added some chopped -parsley and a little lemon-juice. A more common way is to boil the -potatoes, slice them up while hot, and then toss them about in a -vegetable-dish lightly with a lump of what is called Maître -d’Hôtel butter. This is simply a lump of plain cold butter, -mixed with chopped parsley, till it looks like a lump of cold parsley and -butter. When tossed about squeeze a little lemon-juice over the whole and -serve. -</p> - -<p id="newpotatoes127"> -<strong>Potatoes, New</strong>.—New potatoes should be washed and the -skin, if necessary, rubbed off with the fingers; they should be -thrown into boiling water, slightly salted, and as a rule require -from fifteen to five-and-twenty minutes to boil before -they are done. During the last few minutes throw in one or -two sprigs of fresh mint, drain them off and let there dry, and -then place them in a vegetable-dish with the mint and a little -piece of butter, in which the potatoes should be boiled to give -them a shiny appearance outside. -</p> - -<p> -New potatoes can also be served with a little <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> -to which has been added a little chopped parsley. -</p> - -<p id="potatoballs127"> -<strong>Potato Balls</strong>.—Mash some boiled potatoes with a little -butter, pepper, salt, chopped parsley, chopped onion, or still -better, shallot, and add a few savoury herbs. Mix up one or -two or more well-beaten eggs, according to the quantity of -potato, roll the mixture into balls, flour them, and fry them a -nice brown colour, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="potatocroquettes127"> -<strong>Potato Croquettes or Cutlets</strong>.—These are very similar -to potato balls, only they should be smaller and more delicately flavoured. -The potatoes are boiled and mashed, and, if the croquettes are wished to be -very good, one or two <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled yolks of -eggs</a> should be mixed with them. The mixture is slightly flavoured with -shallot, savoury herbs or thyme, chopped parsley, and a little nutmeg. One -or two fresh well-beaten-up eggs are now added, the mixture then rolled -into small balls no bigger than a walnut. These are then dipped in -well-beaten-up egg, and then bread-crumbed. The balls are fried a nice -golden-brown colour and served. -</p> - -<p> -Potato cutlets are exactly the same, only instead of shaping -the mixture into a little ball, the ball is flattened into the -shape of a small oval cutlet. These are then egged, bread-crumbed, -and fried, but before being sent to table a small piece -of green parsley stalk is stuck in one end to represent the -bone of the cutlet. These little cutlets, placed on an ornamental -sheet of white paper, at the bottom of the silver dish, -look very pretty. A small heap of fried parsley should be -placed in the centre of the dish. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Potato Pie</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#potatopie112">SAVOURY DISHES, p. 112.</a>) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Potato Cheesecake</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#potatocheesecake169">CHEESECAKES</a>, p. 169.) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Potato Salads</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#potatosalad101">SALADS, p. 101.</a>) -</p> - -<p id="potatoborder128"> -<strong>Potato, Border of</strong>.—A very pretty dish can be made by -making a border of mashed potatoes, hollow in the centre, in which can be -placed various kinds of other vegetables, such as haricot beans, stewed -peas, &c. The mashed potato should be mixed with one or two -well-beaten-up eggs, and the outside of the border can be moulded by hand, -to make it look smooth and neat; a piece of flexible tin, flat, will be -found very useful, or even a piece of cardboard. If you wish to make the -border ornamental, you can proceed exactly as directed under the heading <a -href="#riceborder064">Rice Borders</a>, and if it is wished to make the -dish particularly handsome, it can be painted outside, before being placed -in the oven, with a yolk of egg beaten up with a tiny drop of hot water. -When this is done, the potato border has an appearance similar in colour to -the rich pastry generally seen outside a pie, or <em>vol au vent</em>. The -inside of the potato border after it has been scooped out can be filled -with plain boiled <a href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a> mixed with Parmesan -cheese, and ornamented with a little chopped parsley on the top and a few -small baked red ripe tomatoes. Again, it can be filled with white haricot -beans piled up in the shape of a dome, with some chopped parsley sprinkled -over the top. There are, perhaps, few dishes in vegetarian cookery that can -be made to look more elegant. -</p> - -<p id="potatobiscuits129"> -<strong>Potato Biscuits</strong> (<em>M. Ude’s -Recipe</em>).—Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the yolks into one pan -and the whites into another. Beat the yolks with a pound of sugar pounded -very fine, scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, dry that and -pound it fine also; then throw into it the yolks, and work the eggs and -sugar till they are of a whitish colour. Next whip the whites well and mix -them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound of flour of potatoes through a -silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. Have some paper cases ready, which lay -on a plafond with some paper underneath. Fill the cases, but not too full; -glaze the contents with some rather coarse sugar, and bake the whole in an -oven moderately heated. -</p> - -<p id="potatobread129"> -<strong>Potato Bread.</strong>—In making bread, a portion of mashed -potato is sometimes added to the flour, and this addition improves -the bread very much for some tastes; it also keeps it -from getting dry quite so soon. At the same time it is not so -nutritious as ordinary home-made bread. Boil the required -quantity of potatoes in their skins, drain and dry them, then -peel and weigh them. Pound them with the rolling-pin until -they are quite free from lumps, and mix with them the flour in -the proportion of seven pounds of flour to two and a half -pounds of potatoes. Add the yeast and knead in the ordinary -way, but make up the bread with milk instead of water. When -the dough is well risen, bake the bread in a gentle oven. -Bake it a little longer than for ordinary bread, and, when it -seems done enough, let it stand a little while, with the oven-door -open, before taking it out. Unless these precautions are -taken, the crust will be hard and brittle, while the inside is -still moist and doughy. This recipe is from “Cassell’s Dictionary -of Cookery.” -</p> - -<p id="potatocake129"> -<strong>Potato Cake.</strong>—Take a dozen good-sized potatoes and hake -them in the oven till done, then peel and put them into a -saucepan with a little salt and grated lemon-peel; set them -upon the stove and put in a piece of fresh butter and stir the -whole; add a little cream and sugar, still continuing to stir -them; then let them cool a little and add some orange-flower -water, eight yolks of eggs and four only of whites, whisked -into froth; heat up the whole together and mix it with the -potato purée. Butter a mould and sprinkle it with bread-crumbs; -pour in the paste, place the pan upon hot cinders, -with fire upon the lid, and let it remain for three-quarters of -an hour, or it may be baked in an oven. -</p> - -<p id="potatocheese130"> -<strong>Potato Cheese</strong>.—Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed -in Germany; they can be made of various qualities, but care -must be taken that they are not too rich and have not too -much heat, or they will burst. Boil the potatoes till they are -soft, but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes must be -large and of the best quality. When boiled, carefully peel -them and beat them to a smooth paste in a mortar with a -wooden pestle. To make the commonest cheese, put five -pounds of potato paste into a cheese-tub with one pound of -milk and rennet; add a sufficient quantity of salt, together -with caraways and cumin seed sufficient to impart a good -flavour. Knead all these ingredients well together, cover up -and allow them to stand three or four days in winter, two to -three in summer. At the end of that time knead them again, -put the paste into wicker moulds, and leave the cheeses to -drain until they are quite dry. When dry and firm, lay them -on a board and leave them to acquire hardness gradually in a -place of very moderate warmth; should the heat be too great, -as we have said, they will burst. When, in spite of all -precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices of the burst -cheeses are, in Germany, filled with curds and cream mixed, -some being also put over the whole surface of the cheese, which -is then dried again. As soon as the cheeses are thoroughly -dry and hard, place them in barrels with green chickweed -between each cheese; let them stand for about three weeks, -when they will be fit for use. -</p> - -<p id="potatoesalabarigoule130"> -<strong>Potatoes à la Barigoule</strong>.—Peel some potatoes and boil -them in a little water with some oil, pepper, salt, onions, and -savoury herbs. Boil them slowly, so that they can absorb the -liquor; when they are done, brown them in a stew-pan in a -little oil, and serve them to be eaten with oil and vinegar, -pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="broiledpotatoes131"> -<strong>Potatoes, Broiled.</strong>—Potatoes are served this way sometimes -in Italy. They are first boiled in their skins, but not -too long. They are then taken out and peeled, cut into thin -slices, placed on a gridiron, and grilled till they are crisp. A -little oil is poured over them when they are served. -</p> - -<p id="potatoesalalyonnaise131"> -<strong>Potatoes à la Lyonnaise.</strong>—First boil and then -peel and slice some potatoes. Make some rather thin purée of onion. -(<em>See</em> <a href="#soubisesauce058">SAUCE SOUBISE</a>.) Pour this over -the potatoes and serve. -</p> - -<p> -Another way is to first brown the slices of potatoes and -then serve them with the onion sauce, with the addition of a -little vinegar or lemon-juice. -</p> - -<p id="potatoesalaprovencale131"> -<strong>Potatoes à la Provençale.</strong>—Put a small piece of butter -into a stew-pan, or three tablespoonfuls of oil, three beads of -garlic, the peel of a quarter of a lemon, and some parsley, all -chopped up very fine; add a little grated nutmeg, pepper and -salt. Peel some small potatoes and let them stew till they -are tender in this mixture. Large potatoes can be used for -the purpose, only they must be cut tip into pieces. Add the -juice of a lemon before serving. -</p> - -<p id="haricotbeans131"> -<strong>Haricot Beans.</strong>—It is very much to be regretted that -haricot beans are not more used in this country. There are -hundreds of thousands of families who at the end of a year -would be richer in purse and more healthy in body if -they would consent to deviate from the beaten track and try -haricot beaus, not as an accompaniment to a dish of meat, but -as an article of diet in themselves. The immense benefit -derived in innumerable cases from a diet of beans is one of -the strongest and most practical arguments in favour of -vegetarianism. Meat-eaters often boast of the plainness of -their food, and yet wonder that they suffer in health. It is -not an uncommon thing for a man to consult his doctor -and to tell him, “I live very simply, nothing but plain roast -or boiled.” -</p> - -<p> -Medical men are all agreed on one point, and that is -that haricot beans rank almost first among vegetables as a -nourishing article of diet. In writing on this subject, Sir -Henry Thompson observes, “Let me recall, at the close of -these few hints about the haricot, the fact that there is no -product of the vegetable kingdom so nutritious, holding its -own, in this respect, as it well can, even against the beef and -mutton of the animal kingdom.” -</p> - -<p> -This is a very strong statement, coming as it does from so -high an authority, and vegetarians would do well to hear it in -mind when discussing the subject of vegetarianism with those -who differ from them. Sir Henry proceeds as follows:—“The -haricot ranks just above lentils, which have been so much -praised of late, and rightly, the haricot being to most palates -more agreeable. By most stomachs, too, haricots are more -easily digested than meat is; and, consuming weight for -weight, the eater feels lighter and less oppressed, as a rule, -after the leguminous dish, while the comparative cost is very -greatly in favour of the latter.” -</p> - -<p> -To boil haricot beans proceed as follows. We refer, of -course, to the dried white haricot beans, the best of which are -those known as Soissons. The beans should be soaked in cold -water overnight, and in the morning any that may be found -floating on the top of the water should be thrown away. -Suppose the quantity be a quart; place these in a saucepan -with two quarts of cold water, slightly salted. As soon as time -water conies to the boil, move it so that the beans will only -simmer gently; they must then continue simmering till they -are tender. This generally takes about three hours, and if the -water is hard, it is advisable to put in a tiny piece of -soda. This is the simple way of cooking beans usually recommended -in cookery-books when they are served up with a -dish of meat, such as a leg of mutton à la Bretonne, where the -beans are served in some rich brown gravy containing fat. -In vegetarian cookery, of course, we must proceed entirely -differently, and there are various ways in which this nourishing -dish can be served, as savoury and as appetising, and indeed -more so, than if we had assistance from the slaughter-house. -We will now proceed to give a few instances. -</p> - -<p> -In the first place, it will greatly assist the flavour of the -beans if we boil with them one or two onions and a dessertspoonful -of savoury herbs. Supposing, however, we have -them boiled plain. Take a large dry crust of bread and rub -the outside well over with one or two beads of garlic. Place -this crust of bread with the beans after they have been strained -off, and toss them lightly about with the crust without breaking -the beans. Remove the crust and moisten the beans while hot -with a lump of butter, add a brimming dessertspoonful of -chopped blanched parsley; squeeze the juice of a lemon over -the whole, and serve. Instead of butter we can add, as they -always do in Italy, two or three tablespoonfuls of pure olive -oil. Those who have conquered the unreasonable English -prejudice against the use of oil will probably find this superior -to butter. -</p> - -<p> -If the beans are served in the form of a purée, it is always -best to boil a few onions with them and rub the onions through -the wire sieve with the beans, taking care that the quantity of -onion is not so large that it destroys and overpowers the -delicate and delicious flavour of the beans themselves. -</p> - -<p> -Next, we would call attention to the importance of not -throwing away the water in which the beans were boiled. -This water contains far more nourishment than people are aware -of, and throughout the length and breadth of France, where -economy is far more understood than in this country, it is -invariably saved to assist in making some kind of soup, and -as our soup will, of course, be vegetarian, the advantage gained -is simply incalculable. -</p> - -<p id="flageolets133"> -<strong>Flageolets</strong>.—These are haricot beans in the fresh green -state, and are rarely met with in this country, though they -form a standing dish abroad. They are exceedingly nice, and -can be cooked in a little butter like the French cook green -peas. They are often flavoured with garlic, and chopped -parsley can be added to them. Those who are fond of this -vegetable in the fresh state can obtain them in tins from any -high-class grocer, as the leading firms in this country keep -them in this form for export. -</p> - -<p id="driedpeas133"> -<strong>Peas, Dried</strong>.—Dried peas, like dried beans, contain a very -great amount of nourishment. Indeed, in this respect, practically, -dried beans, dried peas, and lentils may be considered -equal. Dried peas are met with in two forms—the split yellow -pea and those that are dried whole, green. Split peas are -chiefly used in this country to make <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>, or purée of peas -and peas pudding. We have already given recipes for the two -former, and will now describe how to make— -</p> - -<p id="peaspudding134"> -<strong>Peas Pudding</strong>.—Soak a quart of peas in water overnight, -throwing away those in the morning that are found floating at -the top. Drain them off and tie them up in a pudding-cloth, -taking care to leave plenty of room for the peas to swell; put -them into cold water, and boil them till they are tender. This -will take from two to three hours. When tender, take -them out, untie the cloth, and rub them through a colander, -or, better still, a wire sieve. Now mix in a couple of ounces -of butter with some pepper and salt, flour the cloth well and -tie it up again and boil it for another hour, when it can be -turned out and served. Peas pudding when eaten alone is -improved by mixing in, at the same time as the butter, a -dessertspoonful of dried powdered mint, also, should you have -the remains of any cold potatoes in the house, it is a very good -way of using them up. A few savoury herbs can be used -instead of mint. -</p> - -<p id="peasbrose134"> -<strong>Peas “Brose.”</strong>—Dr. Andrew, in writing to the “Cyclopædia -of Domestic Medicine,” says, “In the West of Scotland, -especially in Glasgow, ‘peas brose,’ as it is called, is made of -the fine flour of the white pea, by forming it into a mass -merely by the addition of boiling water and a little salt. It -is a favourite dish with not only the working classes, but it -is even esteemed by many of the gentry. It was introduced -into fashion chiefly by the recommendation of Dr. Cleghorn, -late Professor of Chemistry in Glasgow University. The peas -brose is eaten with milk or butter, and is a sweet, nourishing -article of diet peculiarly fitted for persons of a costive habit -and for children.” -</p> - -<p id="driedwholegreenpeas134"> -<strong>Peas, Dried Whole, Green</strong>.—This is perhaps the best form -with which we meet peas dried. When the best quality is -selected, and care taken in their preparation, they are quite -equal to fresh green peas when they are old. Indeed, many -persons prefer them. -</p> - -<p> -Soak the peas overnight, throwing away those that float -at the top; put them into cold water, and when they boil let -the peas simmer gently till they are tender. The time varies -very much with the quality and the size of the peas, old ones -requiring nearly three hours, others considerably less. When -the peas are tender, throw in some sprigs, if possible, of fresh -mint, and after a minute strain them off; add pepper, salt, and -about two ounces of butter to a quart of peas—though this -is not absolutely necessary—and nearly a dessertspoonful of -white powdered sugar. -</p> - -<p> -If you wish to have the peas as bright a green as freshly -gathered ones, after you strain them off you can mix them in -a basin, before you add the butter, with a little piece of green -vegetable colouring (sold in bottles by all grocers). The peas -should then be put back in the saucepan for a few minutes to -be made hot through, and then finished as directed before. -</p> - -<p id="driedgreenpeaswithcream135"> -<strong>Peas, Dried, Green, with Cream</strong>.—Boil the peas as before -directed till they are quite tender, then strain them off and -put them in a stew-pan with one ounce of butter to every -quart of peas and toss them lightly about with a little pepper, -salt, and grated nutmeg. Add to each quart of peas a quarter -of a pint of cream and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; -surround the dish with fried or toasted bread. -</p> - -<p id="lentils135"> -<strong>Lentils</strong>.—Lentils are, comparatively speaking, a novel -form of food in this country, though they have been used -abroad for many years, and a recipe for cooking them will be -found in a well-known work, published in Paris in 1846, entitled -“<cite>La Cuisinière de la Campagne et de la Ville; ou, -Nouvelle Cuisine Économique</cite>,”one of the most popular French -cookery-books ever published, and which in that year had -reached a circulation of 80,000 copies. -</p> - -<p> -Recipes for boiled lentils and <a href="#lentilsoup033">lentil soup</a> are -given in “Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery,” published in -1875; but it is stated in the introductory remarks that lentils are little -used in England except as food for pigeons, and adds, “They are -seldom offered for sale.” Since that date lentils have become an -exceedingly popular form of food in many households, and vegetarians -generally regard them as one of the most nourishing forms of food served at -the table. There are two kinds of lentils, the German and Egyptian. The -Egyptian are red and much smaller than the German, which are green. The -former kind are generally used on the Continent, in Italy and the South of -France, while, as the name implies, the green lentils are more commonly -used in Eastern Europe. Either kind, however, can be used for making soup -and purée, recipes of which have already been given, as well as for -the recipes in the present chapter. -</p> - -<p id="boiledlentils136"> -<strong>Lentils, Boiled</strong>.—The lentils should be placed in soak overnight, -and those that float should be thrown away. Suppose -we have half a pint of lentils, they should be boiled in about -a pint and a half of water. Boil them till they are tender, -which will take about half an hour, then drain them off and -put them back in the saucepan for a few minutes with a little -piece of butter, squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon, -and serve hot. Some people make a little thickened sauce with -yolks of eggs and a little butter and flour mixed with the -water in which they are boiled. -</p> - -<p id="curriedlentils136"> -<strong>Lentils, Curried</strong>.—Lentils are very nice curried. -Boil the lentils as directed above till they are tender. When they are -placed in a vegetable-dish make deep well in the centre and pour some thick -curry sauce into it. (<em>See</em> <a href="#currysauce050">CURRY -SAUCE</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="lentilsalaprovencale136"> -<strong>Lentils à la Provençale</strong>.—Soak the lentils overnight and -put them into a stew-pan with five or six spoonfuls of oil, a -little butter, some slices of onion, some chopped parsley, and a -teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs. Stew them in this till -the lentils are tender, and then thicken the sauce with yolks of -eggs, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—<a href="#haricotbeans131">Haricot beans</a> can be cooked in a similar manner. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter8">CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - - <h3>VEGETABLES, FRESH.</h3> - - <p id="frenchartichokes137"> - <strong>Artichokes, French, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Put the - artichokes to soak in some well salted water, upside down, as otherwise - it is impossible to get rid of the insects that are sometimes hidden in - the leaves. Trim off the ends of the leaves and the stalk, and all the - hard leaves round the bottom should be pulled off. Put the artichokes - into a saucepan of boiling water sufficiently deep to nearly cover - them. The tips of the leaves are best left out; add a little salt, - pepper, and a spoonful of savoury herbs to the water in which they are - boiled. French cooks generally add a piece of butter. Boil them till - they are tender. The time depends upon the size, but you can always - tell when they are done by pulling out a single leaf. If it comes out - easily the artichokes are done. Drain them off, and remember in - draining them to turn them upside down. Some kind of sauce is generally - served with artichokes separately in a boat, such as <a - href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, <a - href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a>, or <a - href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. - </p> - -<p id="broiledfrenchartichokes137"> -<strong>Artichokes, Broiled</strong>.—Parboil the artichokes and take -out the part known as the choke. In the hollow place a little -chopped parsley and light-coloured bread-raspings soaked in -olive oil. Place the bottoms of the artichokes on a gridiron -with narrow bars over a clear fire, and serve them as soon a -they are thoroughly hot through. -</p> - -<p id="friedfrenchartichokes137"> -<strong>Artichokes, Fried</strong>.—The bottoms of artichokes after being -boiled can be dipped in batter and fried. -</p> - -<p id="frenchartichokesalaprovencale137"> -<strong>Artichokes à la Provençale</strong>.—Parboil the artichokes and -remove the choke, and put them in the oven in a tin with a -little oil, pepper and salt, and three or four heads of garlic, -whole. Let them bake till they are tender, turning them over -in the oil occasionally; then take out the garlic and serve them -with the oil poured over them, and add the juice of a lemon. -</p> - -<p id="jerusalemartichokes137"> -<strong>Artichokes, Jerusalem, Boiled, Plain</strong>.—The artichokes -must be first washed and peeled, and should be treated like -potatoes in this respect. They should be thrown into cold -water immediately, and it is best to add a little vinegar to -the water. If the artichokes are young, throw them into -boiling water, and they will become tender in about a quarter -of an hour or twenty minutes. It is very important not to -over-boil them, as they turn a bad colour. If any doubt -exists as to the age of the artichokes, they had better be tested -with a fork. Immediately they are tender they should be -drained and served. -</p> - -<p> -Old artichokes must be treated like old potatoes, <em>i.e.</em>, put -originally into cold water, and when they come to the boiling point allowed -to simmer till tender; but these are best mashed. When the artichokes have -been drained, they can, of course, be served quite plain, but they are best -sent to table with some kind of sauce poured over them, such as <a -href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande sauce</a>, <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>, <a href="#whitesauce059">white -sauce</a>, or plain <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. They are -greatly improved in appearance, after a spoonful of sauce has been poured -over each artichoke, if a little blanched chopped parsley is sprinkled over -them, and a few red specks made by colouring a pinch of bread-crumbs by -shaking them with a few drops of cochineal. -</p> - -<p> -Another very nice way of sending artichokes to table is to place all the -artichokes together in a vegetable-dish, and, after pouring a little <a -href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> over each artichoke, to place a -fresh-boiled bright green Brussels sprout between each. The white and green -contrast very prettily. -</p> - -<p id="friedjerusalemartichokes138"> -<strong>Jerusalem Artichokes, Fried</strong>.—Peel and slice the artichokes -very thin; throw these slices into smoking hot oil in -which a frying-basket has been placed. As soon as the artichokes -are of bright golden-brown colour, lift out the frying-basket, -shake it while you pepper and salt the artichokes, -and serve very hot. They can be eaten with thin brown bread-and-butter -and lemon-juice, and form a sort of vegetarian -whitebait. -</p> - -<p id="mashedjerusalemartichokes138"> -<strong>Artichokes, Mashed</strong>.—These are best made from old artichokes. -They must be rubbed through a wire sieve, and the strings -left behind. It is best to mash them up with a little butter, and -a spoonful or two of cream is a very great improvement. -</p> - -<p id="boiledasparagus139"> -<strong>Asparagus, Boiled</strong>.—Cut the asparagus all the same -length by bringing the green points together, and then trimming the stalks -level with a sharp knife. Throw the asparagus into boiling salted water. -Time, from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to thickness. Serve on -dry toast, and send <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> to table -separate in a tureen. -</p> - -<p id="broadbeans139"> -<strong>Beans, Broad, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Broad beans, if eaten -whole, should be quite young. They should be thrown into boiling water, -salted. They require about twenty minutes to boil before they are tender. -Serve with parsley and <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. -</p> - -<p id="mashedbroadbeans139"> -<strong>Broad Beans, Mashed</strong>.—When broad beans get old, the -only way to serve them is to have them mashed. Boil them, -and remove the skins, then mash them up with a little butter, -pepper, and salt, and rub them through a wire sieve, make -them hot, and serve. You can if you like boil a few green -onions and a pinch of savoury herbs with the beans, and rub -these through the wire sieve as well. This dish is very cheap -and very nourishing. Very young beans, like very young -peas, are more nice than economical. -</p> - -<p id="broadbeansalapoulette139"> -<strong>Beans à la Poulette</strong>.—Boil some young beans till they -are tender, and put them into a saucepan with a little butter, -sugar, pepper, and salt, and sufficient flour to prevent the -butter cooking oily; stew them in this a short time, <em>i.e.</em>, till -they appear to begin to boil, as the water from the beans will -mix with the butter and flour and look like thin butter sauce -thicken this with one or two yolks of eggs, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="broadbeansalabourgeoise139"> -<strong>Beans à la Bourgeoise</strong>.—Place the beans in a saucepan, -with a piece of butter, a small quantity of shallot chopped -fine, and a teaspoonful of savoury herbs; toss them about in -this a little time, and then add a little water, sufficient to -moisten them so that they can stew; add a little sugar, and -when tender thicken the water with some beaten-up egg. -</p> - -<p id="frenchbeans139"> -<strong>Beans, French, Plain Boiled</strong>.—French beans are only -good when fresh gathered, and the younger they are the better. -When small they can be boiled whole, in which case they only -require the tips cut off and the string that runs down the side -removed. When they are more fully grown they will require, -in addition to being trimmed in this manner, to be cut into -thin strips, and when very old it will be found best to cut -them slanting. They must be thrown into boiling salted -water, and boiled till they are tender. The time for boiling -varies with the age; very young ones will not take more than -a quarter of an hour, and if old ones are not tender in half an -hour they had better be made into a purée. As soon as the -beans are tender, drain them off, and serve them very hot; the -chief point to bear in mind, if we wish to have our beans nice, -is, they must be eaten directly they are drained from the water -in which they are boiled. They are spoilt by what is called -being kept hot, and possess a marvellous facility of getting -cold in a very short space of time. -</p> - -<p> -In vegetarian cookery, when beans are eaten without being an accompaniment -to meat, some form of fat is desirable. When the beans are drained we can -add either butter or oil. When a lump of <a -href="#maitredhotelsauce053"><em>Maître d’Hôtel</em> -butter</a> is added they form what the French call <em>haricots vert -à la Maître d’Hôtel</em>. In this case, a slight -suspicion of garlic may be added by rubbing the stew-pan in which the -French beans are tossed together with the <em>Maître -d’Hôtel butter</em>. When oil is added, a little chopped -parsley will be found an improvement, as well as pepper, salt, and a -suspicion of nutmeg. -</p> - -<p> -French beans are very nice flavoured with oil and garlic, -and served in a border of <a href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a>. -</p> - -<p id="frenchbeanspudding140"> -<strong>French Bean Pudding</strong>.—When French beans are very old -they are sometimes made into a pudding as follows:—They -must be trimmed, cut up, boiled, with or without the addition -of a few savoury herbs. They must be then mashed in a basin, -tied up in a well-buttered and then floured cloth, and boiled -for some time longer. The pudding can then be turned out. -A still better way of making a French bean pudding is to rub -the beans through the wire sieve, leaving the strings behind, -flavouring the pudding with a few savoury herbs, a little sugar, -pepper, and salt, and, if liked, a suspicion of garlic; add one or -two well-beaten-up eggs, and put the mixture in a round pudding-basin, -and bake it till it sets. This can be turned out on -the centre of a dish, and a few young French beans placed -round the base to ornament it, in conjunction with some -pieces of fried bread cut into pretty shapes. -</p> - -<p id="brocoli141"> -<strong>Brocoli</strong>.—Trim the outer leaves off a brocoli, and -cut off the stalk even, so that it will stand upright. Soak the brocoli in -salt and water for some time, in order to get rid of any insects. Throw the -brocoli into boiling water that has been salted, and boil till it is -tender, the probable time for young brocoli being about a quarter of an -hour. It should be served on a dish with the flower part uppermost; and <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, <a href="#allemandesauce044">sauce -Allemande</a>, or <a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a> can be served separately, or poured over the -surface. -</p> - -<p> -When several heads of brocoli are served at once, it is important -to cut the stalks flat, as directed, before boiling. After -they have been thoroughly drained <em>upside down</em>, they should -be placed on the dish, flower part uppermost, and placed -together as much as possible to look like one large brocoli. If -sauce is poured over them, the sauce should be sufficiently -thick to be spread, and every part of the flower should be -covered. Half a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley -may be sprinkled over the top, and improves the appearance -of the dish. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—We would particularly call attention to the importance -of draining brocoli and cauliflower very thoroughly, -especially when any sauce is served with the brocoli. When -the dish is cut into, nothing looks more disagreeable than to -see the white sauce running off the brocoli into green water at -the bottom of the dish. -</p> - -<p id="brocoligreens141"> -<strong>Brocoli Greens</strong>.—The outside leaves of brocoli should not -be thrown away, but eaten. Too often they are trimmed off -at the greengrocer’s or at the market, and, we presume, utilised -for the purpose of feeding cattle. They can be boiled exactly -like white cabbages, and are equal to them, if not superior, in -flavour. To boil them, <em>see</em> CABBAGE, WHITE, LARGE. -</p> - -<p id="brusselssprouts141"> -<strong>Brussels Sprouts</strong>.—These must be first washed in cold -water and all the little pieces of decayed leaves trimmed away. -Throw them into boiling salted water; the water must be kept -boiling the whole time, without a lid on the saucepan, and if -the quantity of water be sufficiently large not to be taken off -the boil by the sprouts being thrown in they will be sent to -table of a far brighter green colour than otherwise. In order -to ensure this, throw in the sprouts a few at a time, picking out -the big ones to throw in first. Sprouts, as soon as they are -tender—probable time a quarter of an hour—should be drained -and served <em>quickly</em>. When served as a dish by themselves, -after being drained off, they can be placed in a stew-pan with -a little butter, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-juice. They -can then be served with toasted or fried bread. -</p> - -<p id="cabbage142"> -<strong>Cabbage, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Ordinary young cabbages should -be first trimmed by having the outside leaves removed, the -stalks cut off, and then should be cut in halves and allowed to -soak some time in salt and water. They should be thrown into -plenty of boiling water; the water should be kept boiling and -uncovered. As soon as they are tender they should be strained -off and served immediately. Young summer cabbages will not -take longer than a quarter of an hour, or even less; old -cabbages take nearly double that time. It is impossible to -lay down any exact rule with regard to time. Savoys generally -take about half an hour. The large white cabbages met with -in the West of England take longer and require a different -treatment. -</p> - -<p> -When cabbage is served as a dish by itself it will be found a -great improvement to add either butter or oil to moisten the -cabbage after it is thoroughly drained off. In order to ensure -the butter not oiling, but adhering to the cabbage, it is best -after the butter is added, and while you mix it with the -cabbage, to shake the flour-dredger two or three times over the -vegetable. In Germany, many add vinegar and sugar to the -cabbage. -</p> - -<p id="largewhitecabbage142"> -<strong>Cabbage, Large White</strong>.—In the West of England cabbages -grow to an immense size, owing, probably, to the moist heat, -and have been exhibited in agricultural shows over twenty -pounds in weight and as big as an eighteen gallon cask. These -cabbages are best boiled as follows:—After being cut up and -thoroughly washed, it will be found that the greater part of -the cabbage resembles what in ordinary cabbage would be called -stalk, and, of course, the leaves vary very considerably in thickness -from the hard stalk end up to the leaf. Have plenty of -boiling water ready salted, now cut off the stalk part where it is -thickest and throw this in first. Wait till the water comes to -the boil again and let it boil for a few minutes. Then throw -in the next thickest part and again wait till the water re-boils, -and so on, reserving the thin leafy part to be thrown in last of -all. By this means, and this only, do we get the cabbage boiled -uniformly. Had we thrown in all at once one of two things -would be inevitable—either the stalk would be too hard to be -eaten or the leafy part over-boiled. A large white cabbage takes -about an hour to boil tender, and a piece of soda should be added -to the water. When the cabbage is well drained, it can be -served either plain or moistened, and made to look oily by the -addition of a piece of butter. As the cabbage is very white, -the dish is very much improved by the addition of a little -chopped parsley sprinkled over the top, not for the sake of -flavour but appearance. -</p> - -<p id="cabbageandcream143"> -<strong>Cabbage and Cream</strong>.—Ordinary cabbages are sometimes -served stewed with a little cream. They should be first parboiled, -then the moisture squeezed from them, and then they -must be put in a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt -and nutmeg, and a spoonful of flour should be shaken over the -cabbage in order to prevent the butter being too oily. When -the cabbage is stewed till it is perfectly tender, add a few -spoonfuls of cream, stir up, and make the whole thoroughly -hot, and serve with fried or toasted bread. -</p> - -<p id="redcabbage143"> -<strong>Cabbage, Red</strong>.—Red cabbages are chiefly used for pickling. -They are sometimes served fresh. They should be cut across -so that the cabbage shreds, boiled till they are tender, the -moisture thoroughly extracted, and then put into a stew-pan -with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and a few shakes of flour -from the flour-dredger. After stirring for ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them and -serve. -</p> - -<p id="boiledcarrots143"> -<strong>Carrots, Boiled</strong>.—When carrots are boiled and served -as a course by themselves, they ought to be young. This dish is constantly -met with abroad in early summer, but is rarely seen in England, except at -the tables of vegetarians. The carrots should be trimmed, thoroughly -washed, and, if necessary, slightly scraped, and the point at the end, -which looks like a piece of string, should be cut off. They should be -thrown into fast boiling water (salted) in order to preserve their colour. -When tender they can be served with some kind of good <a -href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, or <a -href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a> or <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. Perhaps this latter sauce is best of -all, as it looks like rich custard. Part of the red carrot should show -uncovered by any sauce. They are best placed in a circle and the thick -sauce poured in the centre; a very little chopped blanched parsley can be -sprinkled on the top of the sauce. In making Dutch sauce for carrots use -lemon-juice instead of tarragon vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="friedcarrots144"> -<strong>Carrots, Fried</strong>.—Fried carrots can be made from full-grown -carrots. They must be first parboiled and then cut in slices; -they must then be dipped in well-beaten-up egg, and then -covered with fine dry bread-crumbs and fried a nice brown in -smoking hot oil in a frying-basket. The slices of carrot should -be peppered and salted before being dipped in the egg. -</p> - -<p id="mashedcarrots144"> -<strong>Carrots, Mashed</strong>.—When carrots are very old they are best -mashed. Boil them for some time, then cut them up and rub -them through a wire sieve. They can be pressed in a basin -and made hot by being steamed. A little butter, pepper and -salt should be added to the mixture. A very pretty dish can -be made by means of mixing mashed carrots with mashed -turnips. They can be shaped in a basin, and with a little -ingenuity can be put into red and white stripes. The effect is -something like the top of a striped tent. -</p> - -<p id="boiledcauliflower144"> -<strong>Cauliflower, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Cauliflowers can be treated in -exactly the same manner as brocoli, and there are very few who -can tell the difference. (<em>See</em> <a href="#brocoli141">BROCOLI</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="caulifloweraugratin144"> -<strong>Cauliflower au gratin</strong>.—This is a very nice method of -serving cauliflower as a course by itself. The cauliflower or cauliflowers -should first be boiled till thoroughly tender, very carefully drained, and -then placed upright in a vegetable-dish with the flower part uppermost. The -whole of the flower part should then be <em>masked</em> (<em>i.e.</em>, -covered over) with some thick <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>. <a -href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande sauce</a> or <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a> will do. This is then sprinkled over -with grated Parmesan cheese and the dish put in the oven for the top to -brown. As soon as it <em>begins</em> to brown take it out of the oven and -finish it off neatly with a salamander (a red-hot shovel will do), the same -way you finish cheese-cakes made from curds. -</p> - -<p id="cauliflowerandtomatosauce145"> -<strong>Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce</strong>.—Boil and place the cauliflower -or flowers upright in a dish as in the above recipe. -Now mask all the flower part very neatly, commencing round -the edges first, with some tomato conserve previously made -warm, and serve immediately. This is a very pretty-looking -dish. -</p> - -<p id="stewedcelery145"> -<strong>Celery, Stewed</strong>.—The secret of having good stewed -celery is only to cook the white part. Throw the celery into boiling water, -with only sufficient water just to cover it. When the celery is tender use -some of the water in which it is stewed to make a sauce to serve with it, -or better still, stew the celery in milk. The sauce looks best when it is -thickened with the yolks of eggs. A very nice sauce indeed can be made by -first thickening the milk or water in which the celery is stewed with a -little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a>, and then adding a quarter of a -pint of cream boiled separately. Stewed celery should be served on toast, -like asparagus; a little chopped blanched parsley can be sprinkled over the -white sauce by way of ornament, and fried bread should be placed round the -edge of the dish. -</p> - -<p> -Stewed celery can also be served with <a href="#allemandesauce044">sauce -Allemande</a> or <a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. -</p> - -<p id="endive145"> -<strong>Endive</strong>.—Endive is generally used as a salad, but is very -nice served as a vegetable, stewed. White-heart endives should -be chosen, and several heads will be required for a dish, as they -shrink very much in cooking. Wash and clean the endives -very carefully in salt and water first, as they often contain -insects. Boil them in slightly salted water till they are tender, -then drain them off, and thoroughly extract the moisture; put -them in a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, -let them stew for some little time; add the juice of a lemon, and -serve. It will make the dish much prettier if you reserve one -head of endive boiled whole. Place the stewed endive on a -dish, and sprinkle some chopped blanched parsley over it, then -place the single head of endive upright in the centre, and place -some fried bread round the edge. -</p> - -<p id="stewedleeks145"> -<strong>Leeks, Stewed</strong>.—Leeks must be trimmed down to where -the green part meets the white on the one side, and the root, where the -strings are, cut off on the other. They should be thrown into boiling -water, boiled till they are tender, and then thoroughly drained. The water -in which leeks have been boiled is somewhat rank and bitter, and, as the -leeks are like tubes, in order to drain them perfectly you must turn them -upside down. They can be served on toast, and covered with some kind of -white sauce, either ordinary <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, <a -href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a>, or <a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. -</p> - -<p id="welshporridge146"> -<strong>Leeks, Welsh Porridge</strong>.—The leeks are stewed and cut in -slices, and served in some of the liquor in which they are -boiled, with toast cut in strips, something like onion porridge. -Boil the leeks for five minutes, drain them off, and throw away -the first water, and then stew them gently in some fresh water. -In years back, in Wales, French plums were stewed with and -added to the porridge. -</p> - -<p id="stewedlettuces146"> -<strong>Lettuces, Stewed</strong>.—As lettuces shrink very much when -boiled, allowance must be made, and several heads used. This -is also a very good way of utilising the large old-fashioned -English lettuce resembling in shape a gingham umbrella. -They should be first boiled till tender. The time depends -entirely upon the size. Drain them off, and thoroughly extract -the moisture; put them into a stew-pan, with a little -butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Let them stew some little -time, and add a little vinegar, or, still better, lemon-juice. -</p> - -<p id="stewedlettuceswithpeas146"> -<strong>Lettuces Stewed with Peas</strong>.—A border of stewed lettuces -can be made as above, and the centre filled up with some fresh-boiled -young green peas. -</p> - -<p id="plainonions146"> -<strong>Onions, Plain Boiled</strong>.—When onions are served as a dish -by themselves, Spanish onions are far best for the purpose. -Ordinary onions, as a rule, are too strong to be eaten, except -as an accompaniment to some other kind of food. When -onions are plain boiled, they are best served on dry toast -without any sauce at all. Butter can be added when eaten on -the plate if liked. Large Spanish onions will require about -three hours to boil tender. -</p> - -<p id="bakedonions146"> -<strong>Onions, Baked</strong>.—Spanish onions can be baked in the oven. -They are best placed in saucers, with a very little butter to -prevent them sticking, with which they can also be basted -occasionally. Probable time about three hours. They should -be of a nice brown colour at the finish. -</p> - -<p id="stewedonions147"> -<strong>Onions, Stewed</strong>.—Place a large Spanish onion in a saucer -at the bottom of the saucepan, and put sufficient water in the -saucepan to reach the edge of the saucer; keep the lid of the -saucepan on tight, and let it steam till tender. A large onion -would take about three hours. The water from the onion will -prevent the necessity of adding fresh water from time to time. -</p> - -<p id="parsnips147"> -<strong>Parsnips</strong>.—Like young carrots, young parsnips are -often met with abroad as a course by themselves. They should be trimmed and -boiled whole, and served with <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, <a -href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande sauce</a>, or <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>; a little chopped blanched parsley -should be sprinkled over the sauce, and fried bread served round the edge -of the dish. -</p> - -<p id="friedparsnips147"> -<strong>Parsnips, Fried</strong>.—Boil some full-grown parsnips till they -are tender, cut them into slices, pepper and salt them, dip them -into beaten-up egg, and cover them with bread-crumbs, and -fry these slices in some smoking hot oil till they are a nice -brown colour. -</p> - -<p id="mashedparsnips147"> -<strong>Parsnips, Mashed</strong>.—When parsnips are very old they are -best mashed. Boil them for an hour or more, then cut them -up and rub them through a wire sieve. The stringy part will -have to be left behind. Mix the pulp with a little butter, -pepper, and salt; make this hot, and serve. A little cream is -a great improvement. -</p> - -<p id="parsnipcake147"> -<strong>Parsnip Cake</strong>.—Boil two or three parsnips until they are -tender enough to mash, then press them through a colander -with the back of a wooden spoon, and carefully remove any -fibrous, stringy pieces there may be. Mix a teacupful of the -mashed parsnip with a quart of hot milk, add a teaspoonful of -salt, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of yeast, and -enough flour to make a stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains -the mixture in a warm place, cover it with a cloth, and -leave it to rise. When it has risen to twice its original size, -knead some more flour into it, and let it rise again; make it -into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and place -these on buttered tins. Let them stand before the fire a few -minutes, and bake them in a hot oven. They do not taste of -the parsnip. Time, some hours to rise; about twenty minutes -to bake. -</p> - -<p id="greenpeas148"> -<strong>Peas, Green</strong>.—By far the best and nicest way of cooking -green peas when served as a course by themselves is to stew -them gently in a little butter without any water at all, like -they do in France. The peas are first shelled, and then placed -in a stew-pan with a little butter, sufficient to moisten them. -As soon as they are tender, which will vary with the size and -age of the peas, they can be served just as they are. The -flavour of peas cooked this way is so delicious that they are -nicest eaten with plain bread. When old peas are cooked this -way it is customary to add a little white powdered sugar. -</p> - -<p id="boiledpeas148"> -<strong>Peas, Green, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Shell the peas, and throw -them into boiling water slightly salted. Keep the lid off the -saucepan and throw in a few sprigs of fresh green mint five -minutes before you drain them off. Young peas will take -about ten to twenty minutes, and full-grown peas rather -longer. Serve the peas directly they are drained, as they are -spoilt by being kept hot. -</p> - -<p id="stewedpeas148"> -<strong>Peas, Stewed</strong>.—When peas late in the season get old and -tough, they can be stewed. Boil them for rather more than -half an hour, throwing them first of all into boiling water; -drain them off, and put them into a stew-pan with a little -butter, pepper, and salt. Young onions and lettuces cut up -can be stewed with them, but young green peas are far too -nice ever to be spoilt by being cooked in this way. -</p> - -<p id="scotchkale148"> -<strong>Scotch Kale</strong>.—Scotch kale, or curly greens, as it is sometimes -called in some parts of the country, is cooked like ordinary greens. -It should be washed very carefully, and thrown -into fast-boiling salted water. The saucepan should remain -uncovered, as we wish to preserve the dark green colour. -Young Scotch kale will take about twenty minutes to boil -before it is tender. When boiled, if served as a course by -itself, it should be strained off very thoroughly and warmed in -a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, and salt. -</p> - -<p id="seakale148"> -<strong>Sea Kale</strong>.—Sea kale possesses a very delicate -flavour, and in cooking it the endeavour should be to preserve this -flavour. Throw the sea kale when washed into boiling water; in about twenty -minutes, if it is young, it will be tender. Serve it on plain dry toast, -and keep all the heads one way. <a href="#buttersauce046">Butter sauce</a>, -<a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, <a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch -sauce</a>, or <a href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a> can be -served with sea kale, but should be sent to table separate in a boat, as -the majority of good judges prefer the sea kale quite plain. -</p> - -<p id="spinach149"> -<strong>Spinach</strong>.—The chief difficulty to contend with in cooking -spinach is the preliminary cleansing. The best method of -washing spinach is to take two buckets of water. Wash it in -one; the spinach will float on the top whilst the dirt settles -at the bottom. Lift the spinach from one pail, after you have -allowed it to settle for a few minutes, into the other pail. -One or two rinsings will be sufficient. Spinach should be -picked if the stalks are large, and thrown into boiling water -slightly salted. Boil the spinach till it is tender, which will -take about a quarter of an hour, then drain it off and cut it -very small in a basin with a knife and fork, place it back -in a saucepan with a little piece of butter to make it thoroughly -hot, put it in a vegetable dish and serve. -</p> - -<p> -<a href="#hardboiledeggs081">Hard-boiled eggs</a>cut in halves, or <a -href="#poachedeggs081">poached eggs</a>, are usually served with spinach. A -little cream, nutmeg, and lemon-juice can be added. Many cooks rub the -spinach through a wire sieve. -</p> - -<p id="vegetablemarrow149"> -<strong>Vegetable Marrow</strong>.—Vegetable marrows must be first -peeled, cut open, the pips removed, and then thrown into boiling -water; small ones should be cut into quarters and large ones -into pieces about as big as the palm of the hand. They take -from fifteen to twenty minutes to boil before they are tender. -They should be served directly they are cooked and placed on -dry toast. <a href="#buttersauce046">Butter sauce</a> or <a -href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> can be served with -them, but is best sent to table separate in a boat, as many -persons prefer them plain. -</p> - -<p id="stuffedvegetablemarrow149"> -<strong>Vegetable Marrows, Stuffed</strong>.—Young vegetable marrows -are very nice stuffed. They should be first peeled very slightly and then -cut, long-ways, into three zigzag slices; the pips should be removed and -the interior filled with either mushroom forcemeat (<em>see</em> <a -href="#mushroomforcemeat110">MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT</a>) or sage-and-onion -stuffing made with rather an extra quantity of bread-crumbs. The vegetable -marrow should be tied up with two separate loops of tape about a quarter of -the way from each end, and these two rings of tape tied together with two -or three separate pieces of tape to prevent them slipping off at the ends. -The forcemeat or stuffing should be made hot before it is placed in the -marrow. The vegetable marrow should now be thrown into boiling water and -boiled till it is tender, about twenty minutes to half an hour. Take off -the tape carefully, and be careful to place the marrow so that one half -rests on the other half, or else it will slip. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—If you place the stuffing inside cold, the vegetable -marrow will break before the inside gets hot through. -</p> - -<p id="boiledturnips150"> -<strong>Turnips, Boiled</strong>.—When turnips are young they are -best boiled whole. Peel them first very thinly, and throw them into cold -water till they are ready for the saucepan. Throw them into boiling water -slightly salted. They will probably take about twenty minutes to boil. They -can be served quite plain or with any kind of <a -href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, <a href="#buttersauce046">butter -sauce</a>, <a href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a>, or <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. In vegetarian cookery they are -perhaps best served with some other kind of vegetable. -</p> - -<p id="mashedturnips150"> -<strong>Turnips, Mashed</strong>.—Old turnips are best mashed, as they are -stringy. Boil them till they get fairly tender; they will -take from half an hour to two hours, according to age; then -rub them through a wire sieve and warm up the pulp with a -little milk, or still better, cream and a little butter; add pepper -and salt. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—If the pulp be very moist let it stand and get rid -of the moisture gradually in a frying-pan over a very slack -fire. -</p> - -<p id="ornamentalturnips150"> -<strong>Turnips, Ornamental</strong>.—A very pretty way of serving -young turnips in vegetarian cookery is to cut them in halves -and scoop out the centre so as to form cups; the part -scooped out can be mixed with some carrot cut up into small -pieces, and some green peas, and placed in the middle of a dish -in a heap; the half-turnips forming cups can be placed round -the base of the dish and each cup filled alternately with the -red part of the carrot, chopped small and piled up, and a -spoonful of green peas. This makes a very pretty dish of -mixed vegetables. -</p> - -<p id="turniptops151"> -<strong>Turnip-tops</strong>.—Turnip-tops, when fresh cut, make very -nice and wholesome greens. They should be thrown into boiling water and -boiled for about twenty minutes, when they will be tender. They should then -be cut up with a knife and fork very finely and served like spinach. If -rubbed through a wire sieve and a little <a -href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> mixed with them to give them -the proper colour, and served with <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled -eggs</a>, there are very few persons who can distinguish the dish from <a -href="#eggsandspinach085">eggs and spinach</a>. -</p> - -<p id="curriedvegetables151"> -<strong>Vegetable Curry</strong>.—A border made of all kinds of mixed -vegetables is very nice sent to table with some good thick <a -href="#currysauce050">curry -sauce</a> poured in the centre. -</p> - -<p id="toboilnettles151"> -<strong>Nettles, To Boil</strong>.—The best time to gather nettles for -eating purposes is in the early spring. They are freely eaten -in many parts of the country, as they are considered excellent -for purifying the blood. The young light-green leaves only -should be taken. They must be washed carefully and boiled -in two waters, a little salt and a very small piece of soda being -put in the last water. When tender, turn them into a colander, -press the water from them, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, -score them across three or four times, and serve. Send melted -butter to table in a tureen. Time, about a quarter of an hour -to boil. -</p> - -<p id="boiledsalsify151"> -<strong>Salsify</strong>.—Scrape the salsify and throw it into cold -water with a little vinegar. Then throw it into boiling water, boil til -tender, and serve on toast with <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>. -Time to boil, about one hour. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter9">CHAPTER IX.</h2> - - <h3>PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - Vegetables and fruits are preserved in two ways. We can - have them preserved both in bottles and tins, but the principle - is exactly the same in both cases, the method of preservation - being simply that of excluding the air. We will not enter - into the subject of how to preserve fruit and vegetables, but - will confine ourselves to discussing as briefly as possible the - best method of using them when they are preserved. - </p> - - <p> -Unfortunately there exists a very unreasonable prejudice -on the part of many persons against all kinds of provisions -that are preserved in tins. This prejudice is kept alive by -stories that occasionally get into print about families being -poisoned by using tinned goods. We hear stories also of -poisoning resulting from using copper vessels. Housekeepers -should endeavour to grasp the idea that the evil is the result -of their own ignorance, and that no danger would accrue -were they possessed of a little more elementary knowledge -of chemistry. If a penny be dipped in vinegar and exposed -to the air, and is then licked by a child, a certain amount of -ill effect would undoubtedly ensue, but it does not follow -that we should give up the use of copper money. So, too, if -we use tinned goods, and owing to our own carelessness or -ignorance find occasionally that evil results ensue, we should -not give up the use of the goods in question, but endeavour -to find out the cause why these evil results follow only -occasionally. -</p> - -<p> -All good cooks know, or ought to know, that if they leave -the soup all night in a saucepan the soup is spoilt. Again, -all housekeepers know that although they have a metal tank, -they are bound to have a wooden lid on top, there being a -law to this effect. The point they forget in using tinned goods -is this, so long as the air is excluded from the interior of the -tin no chemical action goes on whatever. When, therefore, -they open the tin, if they turn out the contents at once no harm -can ensue. Unfortunately, there are many thousands who -will open a tin, take out what they want, and <em>leave the remainder -in the tin</em>. Of course, they have only themselves to -blame should evil result. -</p> - -<p> -Preserved vegetables are so useful that they are inseparable -from civilised cookery; for instance, what would a French -cook do were he dependent for his mushrooms upon these -fresh grown in the fields? The standard dish at vegetarian -restaurants is mushroom pie, and, thanks to tinned mushrooms, -we can obtain this dish all the year round. In most -restaurants peas are on the bill of fare throughout the year. -Were we dependent upon fresh grown ones, this popular dish -would be confined almost to a few weeks. -</p> - -<p> -In the case of preserved goods, tinned fruits are even more -valuable than tinned vegetables. Ripe apricots and peaches -picked fresh from the tree are expensive luxuries that in this -country can only be indulged in by the rich, whereas, thanks -to the art of preserving, we are enabled to enjoy them all the -year round. We will run briefly through a few of the chief -vegetables and fruits, and give a few hints how to best use -them. First of all— -</p> - -<p id="tinnedasparagus153"> -<strong>Asparagus, Tinned.</strong>—Place the tin in the saucepan with -sufficient cold water to cover it. Bring the water to a boil -and let it boil for five minutes; take out the tin and cut it -open round the edge, as near to the edge as possible, otherwise -you will be apt to break the asparagus in turning it out. -Drain off the liquor and serve the asparagus on freshly made -hot toast. There is much less waste as a rule in tinned -asparagus than in that freshly cut. As a rule, you can eat -nearly the whole of it. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedpeas153"> -<strong>Peas, Tinned.</strong>—Put the tin before it is opened into cold -water, bring the water to a boil, and let it boil five minutes, or -longer if the tin is a large one. Cut open the tin at the top, -pour out the liquor, and serve the peas with a few sprigs of -fresh mint, if it can be obtained, that have been boiled for two -or three minutes. Supposing the tin to contain a pint of -peas, add while the peas are thoroughly hot a brimming saltspoonful of finely powdered sugar, and half a saltspoonful of -salt. If the peas are to be eaten by themselves, as is generally -the case with vegetarians, add a good-sized piece of butter. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedfrenchbeans154"> -<strong>French Beans, Tinned</strong>.—These can be treated in exactly -similar manner to green peas, only, instead of adding mint, -add a little chopped blanched parsley; the same quantity of -sugar and salt should be added as in the case of peas. After -the butter has melted, it is a great improvement, when the -beans are eaten as a course by themselves, with bread, if the -juice of half a lemon is added. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedflageolets154"> -<strong>Flageolets, Tinned</strong>.—For this delicious vegetable, in -England, we are dependent upon tinned goods, as we cannot -recall an instance in which they can be bought freshly -gathered. Warm up the beans in the tin by placing the tin -in cold water, bringing the water to a boil, and letting it boil -for five minutes. Drain off the liquor, add a saltspoonful of -sugar, half a one of salt, and a lump of butter. Instead of -butter, you can add to each pint two tablespoonfuls of pure -olive oil. Many persons consider it a great improvement to -rub the vegetable-dish with a bead of garlic. In this case the -beans should be tossed about in the dish for a minute or two. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedbrusselssprouts154"> -<strong>Brussels Sprouts, Tinned</strong>.—The tin should be made hot -before it is opened, the liquor drained off, and the sprouts -placed in a dish, with a little butter or oil, powdered sugar, -salt, pepper, and a slight flavouring of nutmeg. In France, in -some parts, a little cream is poured over them. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedspinach154"> -<strong>Spinach, Tinned</strong>.—Spinach is sold in tins fairly -cheap, and, quoting from the list of a large retail establishment where -prices correspond with those of the Civil Service Stores, a tin of spinach -can be obtained for fivepence-halfpenny. The spinach should be made very -hot in the tin, turned out on to a dish, and <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, hot, cut in halves, added. -Some people add also a little vinegar, but, unless persons’ tastes -are known beforehand, that is best added on the plate. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedcarrots154"> -<strong>Carrots, Tinned</strong>.—Young carrots can be obtained in -tins, and, as only young carrots are nice when served as a course by -themselves, these will be found a valuable addition to the vegetarian -store-cupboard. Make the carrots hot in the tin, and let the water boil, -for quite ten minutes after it comes to the boiling point. Drain off the -liquor, and serve them with some kind of <a href="#whitesauce059">white -sauce</a> exactly as if they were freshly boiled young carrots. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedturnips155"> -<strong>Turnips, Tinned.</strong>—Proceed exactly the same as in the case -of carrots. -</p> - -<p id="fonddartichokes155"> -<strong>Fond d’Artichoke.</strong>—These consist of the bottom -part only of French artichokes. They should be made hot in the tin, and -served up with some good <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, and -cut lemon separate, as many prefer the artichokes plain. -</p> - -<p id="macedoines155"> -<strong>Macedoines.</strong>—This, as the word implies, is a mixture -of various vegetables, the chief of which are generally chopped-up carrot -and turnip with young green peas. A very nice dish which can be served at a -very short notice, if you have <a href="#currysauce050">curry sauce</a> in -bottles, is a dish of vegetable curry. The macedoines should be made hot in -the tin, the liquor drained off, and the curry sauce, made hot, should be -poured into a well made in the centre of the macedoines in the dish. -Macedoines are also very useful, as they can be served as a vegetable salad -at a moment’s notice, as the vegetables are sufficiently cooked -without being made hot. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedfruits155"> -<strong>Tinned Fruits.</strong>—Tinned fruits are ready for eating directly -the tin is opened. All we have to bear in mind is to turn them -all out of the tin on to a dish immediately. Do not leave any -in the tin to be used at another time. Most tinned fruits can -be served just as they are, in a glass dish, but a great improvement -can be made in their appearance at a very small cost and -with a very little extra trouble if we always have in the house -a little preserved angelica and a few dried cherries. As these -cost about a shilling or one and fourpence per pound, and even -a quarter of a pound is sufficient to ornament two or three -dozen dishes, the extra expense is almost nil. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedapricots155"> -<strong>Apricots, Tinned.</strong>—Pile the apricots up, with the convex -side uppermost, in a glass dish, reserving one cup apricot to go -on the top, with the concave side uppermost. Take a few preserved -cherries, and cut them in halves, and stick half a cherry -in all the little holes or spaces where the apricots meet. Cut -four little green leaves out of the angelica about the size of the -thumb-nail, only a little longer; the size of a filbert would perhaps -describe the size better. Put a whole cherry in the -apricot cup at the top, and four green leaves of angelica round -it. Take the white kernel of the apricot—one or two will -always be found in every tin—and cut four white slices out of -the middle, place these round the red cherry, touching the -cherry, and resting between the four green leaves of angelica; -the top of this dish has now the appearance of a very pretty -flower. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedpeaches156"> -<strong>Peaches, Tinned</strong>.—These can be treated in exactly a similar -way to the apricots. -</p> - -<p id="peachesandapricotswithcream156"> -<strong>Peaches and Apricots, with Cream</strong>.—Place the fruit in a -glass dish, with the concave side uppermost; pour the syrup -round the fruit, and with a teaspoon remove any syrup that -may have settled in the little cups, for such the half-peaches or -apricots may be called. Get a small jar of Devonshire clotted -cream; take about half a teaspoonful of cream, and place it in -the middle of each cup, and place a single preserved cherry on -the top of the cream. This dish can be made still prettier -by chopping up a little green angelica, like parsley, and -sprinkling a few of these little green specks on the white -cream. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedpineapple156"> -<strong>Pine-apple, Tinned</strong>.—Pine-apples are preserved in tins -whole, and are very superior in flavour to those which are sold -cheap on barrows, which are more rotten than ripe. They -require very little ornamenting, but the top is greatly improved -by placing a red cherry in the centre, and cutting eight strips -of green angelica like spikes, reaching from the cherry to the -edge of the pine-apple. They should be cut in exact lengths, -so as not to overlap. The top of the pine-apple looks like a -green star with a red centre. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedpears156"> -<strong>Pears, Tinned</strong>.—Tinned pears are exceedingly nice in -flavour, but the drawback to them is their appearance. They -look like pale and rather dirty wax, while the syrup with which -they are surrounded resembles the water in which potatoes have -been over-boiled. The prettiest way of sending them to table -is as follows:—Take, say a teacupful of rice, wash it very carefully, -boil it, and let it get dry and cold. Take the syrup -from the pears and taste it, and if not sweet enough add some -powdered sugar. Put the rice in a glass dish, and make a very -small well in the centre, and pour all the syrup into this, so -that it soaks into the rice at the bottom of the dish without -affecting the appearance of the surface. In the meantime, -place the pears themselves on a dish, and let the syrup drain -off them, and if you can let them stand for an hour or two to -let them dry all the better. Now, with an ordinary brush, -paint these waxy-looking pears a bright red with a little -cochineal, and place these half-pears on the white rice, slanting, -with the thick part downwards and the stalk end uppermost. -Cut a few sticks of green angelica about an inch and a half -long and of the thickness of the ordinary stalk of a pear, and -stick one of these into the stalk end of each pear. The red -pear, with the green stalk resting on the snow-white bed of -rice, looks very pretty. A little chopped angelica can be -sprinkled over the white rice, like chopped parsley. -</p> - -<p id="bottledfruits157"> -<strong>Fruits, Bottled</strong>.—When apricots and peaches are -preserved in bottles, they can be treated exactly in a similar manner to -those preserved in tins. It will be found advisable, however, to taste the -syrup in the bottle, as it will be often found that it requires the -addition of a little more sugar. Ordinary bottled fruits, such as -gooseberries, currants, raspberries, rhubarb, damsons, cranberries, etc., -can be used for making fruit pies, or they can be sent to table simply as -stewed fruit. In this case some whipped cream on the top is a very great -improvement. Another very nice way of sending these bottled fruits to table -is to fill <a href="#riceborder064">a border made with rice</a>, as -described in Chapter III. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter10">CHAPTER X.</h2> - - <h3>JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - By vegetarian jelly we mean jellies made on vegetarian principles. - To be consistent, if we cannot use anchovy sauce - because it is made from fish, on the same principle we cannot - use either gelatine or isinglass, which, of course, as everybody - knows, is made from fishes. For all this, there is no reason - why vegetarians should not enjoy jellies quite equal, so far - as flavour is concerned, to ordinary jelly. The simplest substitute - for gelatine, or what is virtually the same thing, isinglass, - is corn-flour. Tapioca could be used, but corn-flour saves - much trouble. Some persons may urge that it is not fair to give - the name of jelly to a corn-flour pudding. There is, however, - a very great difference between a corn-flour pudding flavoured - with orange, and what we may call an orange jelly, in which - corn-flour is only introduced, like gelatine, for the purpose of - transforming a liquid into a solid. - </p> - - <p> -We also have this advantage in using corn-flour: it is -much more simple and can be utilised for making a very large -variety of jellies, many of which, probably, will be new even -to vegetarians themselves. We are all agreed on one point, -<em>i.e.</em>, the wholesomeness of freshly picked ripe fruit. We will -suppose the season to be autumn and the blackberries ripe on -the hedgerows, and that the children of the family are nothing -loth to gather, say, a couple of quarts. We will now describe -how to make a mould of— -</p> - -<p id="blackberryjelly158"> -<strong>Blackberry Jelly</strong>.—Put the blackberries in an enamelled -saucepan with a little water at the bottom, and let them stew -gently till they yield up their juice, or they can be placed -in a jar in the oven. They can now be strained through a -hair sieve, but, still better, they can be squeezed dry in a -tamis cloth. This juice should now be sweetened, and it can -be made into jelly in two ways, both of which are perfectly -lawful in vegetarian cookery. The juice, like red currant -juice, can be boiled with a large quantity of white sugar till -the jelly sets of its own accord; in this case we should require -one pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and the result would -be a blackberry jelly like red currant jelly, more like a preserve -than the jelly we are accustomed to eat at dinner alone. -For instance, no one would care to eat a quantity of red currant -jelly like we should ordinary orange or lemon jelly—it would -be too sickly; consequently we will take a pint or a quart of our -blackberry juice only and sufficient sugar to make it agreeably -sweet without being sickly. We will boil this in a saucepan -and add a tablespoonful of corn-flour mixed with a little cold juice -to every pint to make the juice thick. This can be now poured -into a mould or plain round basin; we will suppose the latter. -When the jelly has got quite cold we can turn it out on to a -dish, say a silver dish, with a piece of white ornamental paper -at the bottom. We now have to ornament this mould of blackberry -jelly, and, as a rule, it will be found that no ornament -can surpass natural ones. Before boiling the blackberries for -the purpose of extracting their juice, pick out two or three -dozen of the largest and ripest, wash them and put them by -with some of the young green leaves of the blackberry plant -itself, which should be picked as nearly as possible of the same -size, and, like the blackberries, must be washed. Now place a -row of blackberry leaves round the base of the mould, with the -stalk of the leaf under the mould, and on each leaf place a -ripe blackberry touching the mould itself. Take four very -small leaves and stick them on the top of the mould, in the -centre, and put the largest and best-looking blackberry of all -upright in the centre. This dish is now pretty-looking enough -to be served on really great occasions. We consider this dish -worthy of being called blackberry jelly, and not corn-flour -pudding. -</p> - -<p id="lemonjelly159"> -<strong>Lemon Jelly</strong>.—Take six lemons and half a pound of sugar, -and rub the sugar on the outside of three of the lemons; the -lemons must be hard and yellow, the peel should not be -shrivelled. Now squeeze the juice of all six lemons into a -basin, add the sugar and a pint of water. Of course, the -lemon-juice must be strained. (If wine is allowed, add half a -pint of good golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring this to the -boil and thicken it with some corn-flour in the ordinary way, -allowing a tablespoonful of corn-flour for every pint of fluid. -Pour it into a mould and when it is set turn it out. A lemon -jelly like this should be turned on to a piece of ornamental -paper placed at the bottom of a silver or some other kind of -dish. The base of the mould should be ornamented with thin -slices of lemon cut in half, the diameter touching the base of -the mould and the semicircular piece of peel outside. If a -round basin has been used for a mould, place a corner of a -lemon on the top in the middle, surrounded with a few imitation -green leaves cut out of angelica. This improves the dish in -appearance and also shows what the dish is made of. -</p> - -<p id="orangejelly160"> -<strong>Orange Jelly</strong>.—Take six oranges, two lemons, and half a -pound of lump sugar; rub the sugar on the outside of three -of the oranges, squeeze the juice of the six oranges into a basin -with the juice of two lemons, strain, add the sugar and a pint -of water. The liquid will be of an orange colour, owing to the -rind of the orange rubbed on to the sugar. (If wine be -allowed, add half a pint of golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring -the liquid to boiling point and then thicken it with corn-flour, -and pour it while hot into a mould or plain white basin; when -cold, turn it out on to a piece of ornamental paper placed at -the bottom of a dish; surround the bottom of the mould with -thin slices of orange cut into quarters and the centre part -pushed under the mould; place the small end of an orange -on the top of the mould with some little leaves or spikes of -green angelica placed round the edge. -</p> - -<p id="blackcurrantjelly160"> -<strong>Black Currant Jelly</strong>.—The juice of black currants makes -excellent jelly in the ordinary way if we boil a pint of black -currant juice with a pound of sugar till it sets; but a mould -of black currant jelly suitable to be used as a sweet at dinner -can be made by adding less sugar and thickening the juice with -corn-flour, allowing about a tablespoonful to every pint, and -pouring it into a mould or plain round basin. The mould -can be ornamented as follows, and we will suppose a pudding-basin -to be used for the purpose. We will suppose the mould -of jelly to have been turned out on to a clean sheet of white -paper. Pick some of the brighter green black-currant leaves -off the tree, and place these round the base of the mould with -the stalk of the leaf pushed underneath and the point of the -leaf pointing outwards. Now choose a few very small bunches -of black currants, wash these and dip them into very weak -gum and water, and then dip them into white powdered sugar. -They now look, when they are dry, as if they were crystallised -or covered with hoar-frost. Place one of these little bunches, -with the stalk stuck into the mould of jelly, about an inch -from the bottom, so that each bunch rests on a green leaf. Cut -a small stick of angelica and stick it into the top of the mould -upright, and let a bunch of frosted black currants hang over -the top. If we wish to make the mould of jelly very pretty -as a supper dish, where there is a good top light, we can dip -the green leaves into weak gum and water and then sprinkle -over them some powdered glass. -</p> - -<p id="redcurrantjelly161"> -<strong>Red Currant Jelly</strong>.—Red currant jelly can be made in -exactly a similar manner, substituting red currants for black. -</p> - -<p id="raspberryjelly161"> -<strong>Raspberry Jelly</strong>.—The raspberries should be picked very -ripe, and two or three dozen of the best-looking ones of the -largest and ripest should be reserved for ornamenting. If -possible, also gather some red currants and mix with the raspberries, -on account of the colour, which otherwise would be -very poor indeed. It will be found best to rub the raspberries -through a hair sieve, as the addition of the pulp very much -improves the flavour of the jelly. The sieve should be sufficiently -fine to prevent the pips of the raspberries passing -through it. The juice and pulp from the raspberries and -currants can now be thickened with corn-flour as directed in -the recipe for blackberry jelly. Raspberry leaves should be -placed round the base of the jelly and a ripe raspberry placed -on each. The best-looking raspberry can be placed on the top -of the mould in the centre of two or three raspberry leaves -stuck in the jelly. -</p> - -<p id="applejamandjelly161"> -<strong>Apple Jam and Apple Jelly</strong>.—The following recipe is -taken from “A Year’s Cookery,” by Phyllis Brown:—“The -best time for making apple jelly is about the middle of -November. Almost all kinds of apples may be used for the -purpose, though, if a clear white jelly is wanted, Colvilles or -orange-pippins should be chosen; if red jelly is preferred, very -rosy-cheeked apples should be taken, and the skins should be -boiled with the fruit. Apple jam is made of the fruit after -the juice has been drawn off for jelly. Economical house-*keepers -will find that very excellent jelly can be made of -apple parings, so that where apples in any quantity have -been used for pies and tarts the skins can be stewed in sufficient -water to cover them, and when the liquor is strongly flavoured -it can be strained and boiled with sugar to a jelly. To make -apple jelly, pare, core and slice the apples and put them into -a preserving-pan with enough water to cover them. Stir -them occasionally and stew gently till the apples have fallen, -then turn all into a jelly-bag and strain away the juice, but -do not squeeze or press the pulp. Measure the liquid and -allow a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Put both juice and -sugar back into the preserving-pan, and, if liked, add one or -two cloves tied in muslin, or two or three inches of lemon-rind. -Boil gently and skim carefully for about half an hour, -or till a little of the jelly put upon a plate will set. Pour it -while hot into jars, and when cold and stiff cover down in the -usual way. If yellow jelly is wanted a pinch of saffron tied -in muslin should be boiled with the juice. To make apple jam, -weigh the apple pulp after the juice has been drawn from it, -rub it through a hair sieve, and allow one pound of sugar to -one pint of pulp, and the grated rind of a lemon to three -pints of pulp. Boil all gently together till the jam will set -when a little is put on a plate. Apple jam is sometimes -flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon.” -</p> - -<p id="damsonjelly162"> -<strong>Damson Jelly</strong>.—Damson jelly can be made in two ways. -The juice can be boiled with sugar till it gets like red currant -jelly, or the juice of the damsons can be sweetened with less sugar -and thickened with corn-flour. In order to extract the juice from -damsons they should be sliced and placed in a jar or basin and -put in the oven. They are best left in the oven all night. If -the mould of jelly is made in a round basin, a single whole -damson can be placed on the top of the mould and green -leaves placed round the base. -</p> - -<p id="pineapplejelly162"> -<strong>Pine-apple Jelly</strong>.—The syrup from a preserved pine, -should the pine-apple itself be used for mixing with other -fruits, or for ornamental purposes, can be utilised by being -made into a mould of jelly and by being thickened with corn-flour. -It will bear the addition of a little water. -</p> - -<p id="apricotjelly163"> -<strong>Apricot Jelly</strong>.—The juice from tinned apricots can be -treated like that of pine-apple. When a mixture of fruits is -served in a large bowl, the syrup from tinned fruits should not -be added, but at the same time, of course, should be used in -some other way. -</p> - -<p id="mulberryjelly163"> -<strong>Mulberry Jelly</strong>.—Mullberries, of course, would not be -bought for the purpose, but those who possess a mulberry tree -in their garden will do well to utilise what are called windfalls -by making mulberry jelly. The juice can be extracted by -placing the fruit in a jar and putting it in the oven; sugar -must be added, and the juice thickened with corn-flour. There -are few other ways of using unripe mulberries. -</p> - -<p id="jams163"> -<strong>Jams</strong>.—Home-made jam is not so common now as it was -some years back. As a rule, it does not answer from an economical -point of view to <em>buy</em> fruit to make jam. On the other -hand, those who possess a garden will find home-made jam a -great saving. Those who have attempted to sell their fruit -probably know this to their cost. In making every kind of -jam it is essential the fruit should be picked dry. It is also a -time-honoured tradition that the fruit is best picked when -basking in the morning sun. It is also necessary that the -fruit should be free from dust, and that all decayed or rotten -fruit should be carefully picked out. -</p> - -<p> -Jam is made by boiling the fruit with sugar, and it is false -economy to get common sugar; cheap sugar throws up a quantity -of scum. Years back many persons used brown sugar, -but in the present day the difference in the price of brown and -white sugar is so trifling that the latter should always be used -for the purpose. The sugar should not be crushed. It is best -to boil the fruit before adding the sugar. The scum should be -removed, and a wooden spoon used for the purpose. A large -enamel stew-pan can be used, but tradition is in favour of a -brass preserving-pan. It will be found best to boil the fruit as -rapidly as possible. The quantity of sugar varies slightly with -the fruit used. Supposing we have a pound of fruit, the -following list gives what is generally considered about the -proper quantity of sugar -</p> - -<p id="apricotjam164"> -APRICOT JAM.—Three-quarters of a pound. -</p> - -<p id="blackberryjam164"> -BLACKBERRY JAM.—Half a pound; if apple is mixed, rather -more. -</p> - -<p id="blackcurrantjam164"> -BLACK CURRANT JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="redcurrantjam164"> -RED CURRANT JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="damsonjam164"> -DAMSON JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="gooseberryjam164"> -GOOSEBERRY JAM.—Three-quarters of a pound. -</p> - -<p id="greengagejam164"> -GREENGAGE JAM.—Three-quarters of a pound. -</p> - -<p id="plumjam164"> -PLUM JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="raspberryjam164"> -RASPBERRY JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="strawberryjam164"> -STRAWBERRY JAM.—Three-quarters of a pound. -</p> - -<p id="carrotjam164"> -CARROT JAM.—If you wish the jam to be of a good colour, -only use the outside or red part of the carrots. Add the rind -and the juice of one lemon, and one pound of sugar to every -pound of pulp; a little brandy is a great improvement. -</p> - -<p id="rhubarbjam164"> -RHUBARB JAM.—To every pound of pulp add three-quarters -of a pound of sugar, and the juice of one lemon and the rind -of half a lemon. Essence of almonds can be substituted for -the lemon. -</p> - -<p id="vegetablemarrowjam164"> -VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.—Add three-quarters of a pound -of sugar to every pound of pulp. The jam can be flavoured -either with ginger or lemon-juice. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter11">CHAPTER XI.</h2> - - <h3>CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESE-CAKES.</h3> - - <p id="creams165"> - <strong>Creams</strong>.—Creams may be divided into two - classes—whipped cream, flavoured in a variety of ways, and the - solid moulds of cream, which when turned out look extremely elegant, - but which when tasted are somewhat disappointing. These latter moulds - owe their firmness and consistency to the addition of isinglass, and, - as this substance is not allowed in vegetarian cookery, we shall be - able to dispense with cream served in this form, nor are we losers by - so doing. The ordinary mould of cream is too apt to taste like spongy - liver, and, so far as palate is concerned, is incomparably inferior to - the more delicate whipped creams. Just in the same way a good rich - custard made with yolks of eggs is spoilt by being turned into a solid - custard by the addition of gelatine. In order to have good whipped - cream, the first essential is to obtain pure cream. This greatly - depends upon the neighbourhood in which we live. In country houses, - away from large towns, there is as a rule no trouble, whereas in London - really good cream can only be obtained with great difficulty. There is - a well-known old story of the London milkman telling the cook who - complained of the quality of the cream to stir it up, as the cream - settled at the bottom. We will not enter into the subject of the - adulteration of cream in big cities, as probably many of these stories - are gross exaggerations, though it is said that pigs’ brains and - even horses’ brains have been used for the purpose of giving the - cream a consistency, while undoubtedly turmeric has been used to give - it a colour. - </p> - -<p> -We will suppose that we have, say, a quart of really good -thick cream. All that is necessary is to beat up the cream -with a whisk till it becomes a froth. This is much more easily -done in cold weather than in hot, and, if the weather be very -warm, it is best to put the tin or pan containing the cream -into ice an hour or two before it is used. Old French cookery-books -recommend the addition of a little powdered gum, not -bigger than a pea, and the gum recommended is that known -as tragacanth. Others again beat up the white of an egg to a -stiff froth, and add this to the cream. It is a good plan when -the cream fails to froth completely to take off the top froth -and drain it on a sieve placed upside down. The cream that -drains through can be added to what is left and re-whipped. -It is also a good plan to make whipped cream some time before -it is wanted, and, indeed, it can be prepared with advantage the -day before. When the cream is drained (we are supposing a -quart to have been used) it should be mixed with three or -four ounces of very finely powdered sugar, as well as the particular -kind of flavouring that will give the cream its name. -For instance, we can have, if liqueurs are allowed— -</p> - -<p id="maraschinocream166"> -<strong>Maraschino Cream</strong>.—This is simply made by mixing a -small glass of maraschino with some whipped cream, properly -sweetened. -</p> - -<p id="coffeecream166"> -<strong>Coffee Cream</strong>.—Make a very strong infusion of pure coffee -that has been roasted a high colour. It will be found best to -re-roast coffee berries in the oven if you have not got a -proper coffee-roaster. Pound the berries in a pestle and mortar, -or grind them very coarsely; then make a strong infusion with -a very small quantity of water, and strain it till it is quite -bright. This is mixed with the whipped sweetened cream. -</p> - -<p id="chocolatecream166"> -<strong>Chocolate Cream</strong>.—Take about two ounces of the very best -chocolate and dissolve it in a little boiling water; let it get -cold, and then mix with the whipped sweetened cream. -</p> - -<p id="vanillacream166"> -<strong>Vanilla Cream</strong>.—Vanilla cream is nicest when a fresh -vanilla pod is used for the purpose, but a more simple process -is to use a little essence of vanilla. -</p> - -<p id="orangecream166"> -<strong>Orange Cream</strong>.—Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside -of an orange, and pound this sugar very finely, and then mix -it with the whipped cream. -</p> - -<p id="lemoncream166"> -<strong>Lemon Cream</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in making orange -cream, only substituting lemon for orange. -</p> - -<p id="strawberrycream167"> -<strong>Strawberry Cream</strong>.—The juice only of the strawberry -should be used. This juice should be mixed with the powdered -sugar and then used for mixing with the whipped cream. It -is a mistake, in making creams, to have too much flavouring. -The juice of a quarter of a pound of ripe red strawberries -would be sufficient for a quart of cream. -</p> - -<p id="pistachiocream167"> -<strong>Pistachio Cream</strong>.—Take about half a pound of pistachio -kernels, throw them for a minute or two into boiling water, -and then rub off the skins, throwing them into cold water like -you do in blanching almonds. Pound these in a mortar with -a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix a little spinach -extract to give it a colour. Now mix this with the whipped -sweetened cream very thoroughly. This bright green cream -makes a very elegant dish. -</p> - -<p id="custards167"> -<strong>Custards</strong>.—Good custard forms, perhaps, the best cold sweet -sauce known. It can be made very cheaply, and, on the other -hand, it may be made in such a manner as to be very expensive. -We will first describe how to make the most expensive kind of -custard, as very often we can gather ideas from a high-class -model and carry them out in an inexpensive way. The highest -class custard is made by only using yolks of eggs instead of -whole eggs, and we can use cream in addition to milk. The -great art in making custard is to take care it does not curdle. -Six yolks of eggs, half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, -sweetened, would, of course, form a very expensive custard. -An ordinary custard can be made as follows:—Take four large -or five small eggs, beat them up very thoroughly, and add them -gradually to a pint of sweetened milk that has been boiled separately. -In order to thicken the custard, it is a good plan to put -it in a jug and stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and -stir the custard till it is sufficiently thick. Custard can be -flavoured in various ways. One of the cheapest and perhaps -nicest is to boil one or two bay-leaves in the milk. Custard -can also be flavoured by the addition of a small quantity of -the essence of vanilla; if you use a fresh pod vanilla, tie it up -in a little piece of muslin and have a string to it. This can be -boiled in the milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured, and -this pod can be used over and over again. Of course, as it -loses its flavour, it will have to remain in the milk longer. -</p> - -<p id="cheapcustard168"> -<strong>Cheap Custard.</strong>—A very cheap custard can be made by -adding to one pint of boiled milk one well-beaten-up egg and one -good-sized teaspoonful of corn-flour. The milk should be first -sweetened, and can be flavoured very cheaply by rubbing a few -lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or by having a few -bay-leaves boiled in it. A rich yellow colour can be obtained -by using a small quantity of yellow vegetable colouring extract, -which, like the green colouring, is sold in bottles by all grocers. -These bottles are very cheap, as they last a long time. They -simply give any kind of pudding a rich colouring without -imparting any flavour whatever, and in this respect are very -superior to saffron. -</p> - -<p id="applecustard168"> -<strong>Apple Custard.</strong>—Good apple custard can only be made by -using apples of a good flavour. When apples are in season, -this dish can be made fairly cheaply, but it does not do to use -those high-priced imported apples. Peel and take out the cores -of about four pounds of apples, and let these simmer till they -are quite tender in rather more than a pint of water. Add -about one pound of sugar, or rather less if the apples are sweet; -add a little powdered cinnamon, and mix all this with eight -eggs, well beaten up; stir the mixture very carefully in a saucepan, -or better still in a good-sized jug placed in a saucepan, -till it begins to thicken. This custard is best served in -glasses, and a little cinnamon sugar can be shaken over the -top. Nutmeg may be used instead of cinnamon, and by many -is thought superior. -</p> - -<p id="cheesecakes165"> -<strong>Cheese-cakes.</strong>—Cheese-cakes can be sent to table in two -forms, the one some rich kind of custard or cream placed in -little round pieces of pastry, or we can have a so-called cheese-cake -baked in a pie-dish, the edges only of which are lined with -puff paste. We can also have cheese-cakes very rich and -cheese-cakes very plain. The origin of the name cheese-cake is -that originally they were made from curds used in making cheese. -Probably most people consider that the cheese-cakes made from -curds are superior, and in the North of England, and especially -in Yorkshire, where curds are exposed for sale in the windows at -so much a pound, very delicious cheese-cakes can be made, but -considerable difficulty will be experienced if we attempt to -make home-made curds from London milk. Curds are made -by taking any quantity of milk and letting it nearly boil, -then throw in a little rennet or a glass of sherry. The curds -must be well strained. -</p> - -<p id="cheesecakesfromcurds169"> -<strong>Cheese-cakes from Curds</strong>.—Take half a pound of curds -and press the curds in a napkin to extract the moisture. Take -also six ounces of lump sugar, and rub the sugar on the outside -of a couple of oranges or lemons. Dissolve this sugar in -two ounces of butter made hot in a tin in the oven; mix this -with the curds, with two ounces of powdered ratafias and a -little grated nutmeg—about half a nutmeg to this quantity -will be required; add also six yolks of eggs. Mix this well -together, and fill the tartlet cases, made from puff paste, and -bake them in the oven. It is often customary to place in the -centre of each cheese-cake a thin strip of candied peel. As -soon as the cheese-cakes are done, take them out of the oven, -and if the mixture be of a bad colour finish it off with a -salamander, but do not let them remain in the oven too long, -so that the pastry becomes brittle and dried up. These -cheese-cakes can be made on a larger scale than the ordinary -one so familiar to all who have looked into a pastry-cook’s -window. Suppose we make them of the size of a breakfast -saucer, a very rich and delicious cheese-cake can be made -by adding some chopped dried cherries to the mixture. Sometimes -ordinary grocer’s currants are added and the ratafias -omitted. Sultana raisins can be used instead of currants, and -by many are much preferred. -</p> - -<p> -This mixture can be baked in a shallow pie-dish and time -edge of the dish lined with puff paste, but cheese-cakes made -from curds are undoubtedly expensive. -</p> - -<p id="potatocheesecake169"> -<strong>Cheese-cakes from Potatoes</strong>.—Exceedingly nice cheese-cakes -can be made from remains of cold potatoes, and can be -made very cheap by increasing the quantity of potatoes used. -Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, two fresh -lemons, and half a pound of lump sugar. First of all rub -off all the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar; oil the -butter in a tin in the oven and melt the sugar in it; squeeze -the juice of the two lemons, and take care that the sugar is -thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix all the ingredients -together. Now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix the -whole in a basin. This now forms a very rich mixture indeed, -a good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the -interior of an ordinary-sized cheese-cake, but a far better plan -is to make a large cheese-cake, or rather cheese-cake pudding, -in a pie-dish by adding cold boiled potatoes. The plainness or -richness of the pudding depends entirely upon the amount of -potatoes added. The pie-dish can be lined with a little puff -paste round the edge, if preferred, or the pudding can be sent -to table plain. It should be baked in the oven till the top is -nicely browned. It can be served either hot or cold, but, in -our opinion, is nicer cold. If the lemons are very fresh and -green—if the pudding is sent to table <em>hot</em>—you will often -detect the smell of turpentine. If a <em>large quantity</em> of potatoes -is added more sugar will be required. -</p> - -<p id="orangecheesecake170"> -<strong>Orange Cheese-cake</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above, only substituting -two oranges for two lemons. -</p> - -<p id="almondcheesecakes170"> -<strong>Almond Cheese-cakes</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above, only -instead of rubbing the sugar on the outside of lemons add -a small quantity of essence of almonds. -</p> - -<p id="applecheesecakes170"> -<strong>Apple Cheese-cakes</strong>.—Apple cheese-cakes can be made -in a similar manner to <a href="#applecustard168">apple custard</a>, the -only difference being that the mixture is baked till it sets. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter12">CHAPTER XII.</h2> - - <h3>STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - There are few articles of diet more wholesome than fruit, in - every shape, provided it is <em>fresh</em>. It is a great mistake, however, - to suppose that fruit, when too stale to be eaten as it is, is yet - good enough for stewing. We often hear, especially in summer - weather, of persons being made ill from eating fruit. Probably - in every case the injury results, not from eating fruit as fruit, - but from eating it when it is too stale to be served as an article - of food at all. There is an immense amount of injury done to - this country by the importation of rotten plums, more especially - from Germany, and it is to be regretted that more stringent - laws are not made to prevent the importation of all kinds of - food hurtful to health. - </p> - - <p> -We will suppose that in every recipe we are about to give -the fruit is at any rate fresh; we do not say ripe, because -there are many instances in which fruit not ripe enough to be -eaten raw is exceedingly wholesome when stewed properly and -sweetened. As an instance we may mention green gooseberries -and hard greengages, which, though quite uneatable in -their natural state, yet make delicious fruit pies or dishes of -stewed fruit. Of all dishes there are few to equal what is -called a compote of fruit, and there are probably few sweets -more popular than— -</p> - -<p id="compoteoffruit171"> -<strong>Compote of Fruit</strong>.—A compote of fruit consists of a variety -of fresh fruits mixed together in a bowl. Some may be stewed -and some served in their natural state, or the whole may be -stewed. When a large variety of fruits can be obtained, and -are sent to table in an old-fashioned china family bowl, few -dishes present a more elegant appearance, especially if you -happen to possess an old-fashioned punch ladle, an old silver -bowl with a black whalebone handle. Care should be taken -to keep the fruit from being broken. The following fruits -will mix very well, although, of course, it is impossible always -to obtain every variety. We can have strawberries, raspberries, -red, white, and black currants, and cherries, as well -as peaches, nectarines, and apricots. We can also have stewed -apples and stewed pears. Very much, of course, will depend -upon the time of year. Those fruits that want stewing -should be placed in some hot syrup previously made, and -only allowed to stew till tender enough to be eaten. Tinned -fruits, especially apricots, can be mixed with fresh fruits, only -it is best not to use the syrup in the tin, as it will probably -overpower the flavour of the other fruits. The syrup, as far -as possible, should be bright and not cloudy. The fruit in the -bowl should be mixed, but should not be stirred up. We should -endeavour as much as possible to keep the colours distinct. -If strawberries or raspberries form part of the compote, the -syrup will get red. Should black currants be present, avoid -breaking them, as they spoil the appearance of the syrup. In -summer the compote of fruits is much improved by the addition -of a lump of ice and a glass of good old brandy. Should the -compote of fruits, as is often the case, be intended for a garden -party, where it will have to stand a long time, if possible get -a small bowl, like those in which gold and silver fish are sold -in the street for sixpence, and fill this with ice and place it in -the middle of the larger bowl containing fruit, otherwise the -melted ice will utterly spoil the juice that runs from the fruit, -which is sweetened with the syrup and flavoured with the -brandy. If much brandy be added, old ladies at garden -parties will be found to observe that the juice is the best part -of it. -</p> - -<p id="stewedapples172"> -<strong>Apples, Stewed</strong>.—Peel and cut out the cores of the apples, -and stew them gently in some syrup composed of about half a -pound of white sugar and rather more than a pint of water. -A small stick of cinnamon, or a few cloves, and a strip of -lemon-peel can be added to the syrup, but should be taken out -when finished. The apples should be stewed till they are -tender, but must not be broken. The syrup in which the -apples are stewed should of course be served with them. This -syrup can be coloured slightly with a few drops of cochineal, -but should not be coloured more than very slightly. The syrup -looks a great deal better if it is clear and bright. It can be -strained and clarified. Apples are very nice stewed in white -French wine, such as Chablis or Graves. -</p> - -<p id="stewedpears173"> -<strong>Stewed Pears</strong>.—Pears known as cooking pears take a -long time to stew. They should be peeled and the cores removed, -and then stewed very gently in a syrup composed of -half a pound of sugar to about a pint and a half of water; add -a few cloves to the syrup, say two cloves to each pear. The -pears will probably take from two to three hours to stew before -they are tender. When tender add a glass of port wine and a -little cochineal. If the pears are stewed, like they are abroad, -in claret, add cinnamon instead of the cloves. -</p> - -<p id="stewedrhubarb173"> -<strong>Stewed Rhubarb</strong>.—Stewed rhubarb is of two kinds. When -it first comes into season it is small, tender, and of a bright -red colour, and when stewed makes a very pretty dish. The -red rhubarb should be cut into little pieces about two inches -long. Very little water will be required, as the fruit contains -a great deal of water in itself. The amount of sugar added -depends entirely upon taste. The stewed rhubarb should be -sent to table unbroken, and floating in a bright red juice. -</p> - -<p> -When rhubarb is old and green it is best served more like -a purée, or mashed. Very old rhubarb is often stringy, -and can with advantage be rubbed through a wire sieve. It is -no use attempting to colour old rhubarb red, but you can improve -its colour by the addition of a very little <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a>. -A few strips of lemon-peel can be stewed with old rhubarb, but -should never be added to young red rhubarb. -</p> - -<p id="stewedgooseberries173"> -<strong>Gooseberries, Stewed.</strong>—Young green gooseberries stewed, -strange to say, require less sugar than ripe gooseberries. It is -best to stew the fruit first, and add the sugar afterwards. -The amount of sugar varies very much with the quality of the -gooseberries. -</p> - -<p id="stewedprunes173"> -<strong>Prunes, Stewed</strong>.—The prunes should be washed before they -are stewed. They will not take more than half an hour to -stew, and a strip of lemon-peel should be placed in the juice. -Stewed prunes are much improved by the addition of a little -port wine. -</p> - -<p id="stewedplums174"> -<strong>Plums, Stewed</strong>.—Stewed plums, such as black, ordinary, -or greengages, or indeed any kind of stone fruit, can be stewed -in syrup, and have this advantage—plums can be used this -way which could not be eaten at all if they were raw. These -fruits are much nicer cold than hot. In many cases, in stewing -stone fruit (and this applies particularly to peaches, apricots, -and nectarines), the stones should be removed and cracked -and the kernels added to the fruit. -</p> - -<p id="stewedcherries174"> -<strong>Cherries, Stewed</strong>.—Large white-heart cherries form a very -delicate dish when stewed. Very little water should be added, -and the syrup should be kept as white as possible, and, if -necessary, strained. Stew the cherries till they are tender, -but do not let them break. Colour the syrup with a few drops -of cochineal, and add a glass of maraschino. -</p> - -<p id="ices174"> -<strong>Ices</strong>.—Ices are too often regarded as expensive luxuries, -and show how completely custom rules the majority of our -housekeepers. There are many houses where the dinner may -consist daily of soup, fish, entrées, joint, game, and wine, and -yet, were we to suggest a course of ices, the worthy housekeeper -would hesitate on the ground of extravagance. It is difficult -to argue with persons whose definition of economy is what -they have always been accustomed to since they were children, -and whose definition of extravagance is anything new. The -fact remains, however, that there is many a worthy signor who -sells ices in the streets at a penny each, and manages to make -a living out of the profit not only for himself, but for his -signora as well. Under these circumstances, the manufacture -of these “extravagances” is worthy of inquiry. Ices can be -made at home very cheaply with an ice machine, which can -now be obtained at a, comparatively speaking, small cost. -With a machine there is absolutely no trouble, and directions -will be given with each machine, so that any details here, -which vary with the machine, will be useless. Ices can be -made at home without a machine with a little trouble, and, to -explain how to do this, it is necessary to explain the theory of -ice-making, which is exceedingly simple. We will not allude -to machines dependent on freezing-powders, but to those which -rely for their cold simply on ice and salt mixed. We will suppose -we want a lemon-water ice, <em>i.e.</em>, we have made some very -strong and sweet lemonade, and we want to freeze it. It is -well known that water will freeze at a certain temperature, -called freezing-point. By mixing chopped ice and salt and -a very little water together, a far greater degree of cold can -be immediately produced, viz., a thermometer would stand at -32° below freezing-point were it to be plunged into this mixture. -An ice machine is a metal pail placed in another pail -much larger than itself. The “sweet lemonade” is placed in -the middle pail, and chopped ice and salt placed outside it. -The proportion of ice to salt should be double the weight of -the former to the latter. It is now obvious that if we have -filled two pails, the one with “the sweet lemonade,” and the -other with the ice and salt, very soon our lemonade will be a -solid block of ice. To prevent this it must be constantly -stirred, and, as the lemonade would of course freeze first against -the sides of the pail, these sides must be constantly scraped. -Inside the inner pail, consequently, there is a stirrer, which, -by means of a handle, continually scrapes the side of the pail. -It is obvious that if the stirrer is fixed, and the pail itself -made to revolve, that is the same as if the pail were fixed and -the stirrer made to revolve. To make lemon-water ice, therefore, -place the lemonade in the inner pail, surrounded with -chopped ice and salt, two parts of the former to one of the -latter, turn the handle, and in a few minutes the ice is made. -Now, suppose you have not got a machine, proceed as follows: -Take an empty, clean, round coffee-tin (the larger the better). -[We mention coffee-tin as the most probable one to be in the -house, but any round tin will do.] Get a clean piece of wood, -the same width as the inside diameter of the tin, only it must -be a great deal longer. We will suppose the tin rather more -than a foot deep and five inches in diameter. Our piece of -wood, which should be clean and smooth, must be nearly five -inches wide, say a quarter of an inch thick, and about two feet -long. Next get a small tub, say nine inches deep, place the -round tin in the middle, with the sweet lemonade inside; next -place the piece of wood upright in the tin, so that the wood -touches the bottom. Next surround the tin with chopped ice -and salt up to the edge of the tub, fill it as high as you can, -and then cover it round with a blanket, <em>i.e.</em>, cover the ice and -salt. Now get someone to hold the wooden board steady; -take the tin in your two hands, and turn it round and round, -first one way and then another. In a very short time you -will find the tin to contain lemon-water ice. The following -hints, rather than recipes, for making ices, <em>i.e.</em>, for making the -liquid, which must be frozen as directed above, are given, not -because they are the best recipes, but because cream, which -is the basis of all first-class ices, is often too expensive to be -used constantly. Of course, real cream is far superior to any -substitute. -</p> - -<p id="cheapicecream176"> -<strong>Ice Cream, Cheap</strong>.—Make a custard (<em>see</em> <a -href="#custards167">CUSTARD</a>) with half a pint of milk, the yolks of two -eggs, and a tablespoonful of Swiss milk and some sugar. As soon as it gets -a little thick, stir it till it is nearly cold, then add some essence of -vanilla or almonds, or a wineglassful of noyeau, or any flavouring wished, -and freeze. -</p> - -<p id="icesfromfreshfruit176"> -<strong>Ices from Fresh Fruits</strong>.—Take half a pound of fresh -strawberries or raspberries, add half that weight of sugar, pound -thoroughly, rub through a sieve, and mix with this thick juice, rubbed -through, half a pint of the mixture made for ice cream (<em>see</em> <a -href="#cheapicecream176">ICE CREAM, CHEAP</a>), only, of course, without -any flavouring such as vanilla, etc. Mix thoroughly, and freeze. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>N.B.</strong>—A few red currants should be mixed with the -raspberries. Should the colour be poor, brighten it up before freezing with -a little cochineal. -</p> - -<p id="icesfromjams176"> -<strong>Ices from Jam</strong>.—Mix a quarter of a pound of any jam -with half a pint of the mixture made for ice cream (<em>see</em> <a -href="#cheapicecream176">ICE CREAM, CHEAP</a>), without any flavouring such -as vanilla. Rub all through a fine sieve, and freeze. Cochineal will give -additional colour to red jams; <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach -extract</a> to green jams; and a very little turmeric, or yellow vegetable -colouring, to yellow jams. A small pinch of turmeric can be boiled in the -milk. -</p> - -<p id="lemonwaterice176"> -<strong>Ice, Lemon-Water</strong>.—Rub six lumps of sugar on the rind of -six lemons, add this and the juice of six lemons to a pint of -fairly sweet syrup. The amount of sugar is a matter of taste. -Strain and freeze. Some persons add a few drops of dilute -sulphuric acid. -</p> - -<p id="orangewaterice176"> -<strong>Ice, Orange-Water</strong>.—Act exactly as in lemon-water, -using oranges instead of lemons, and syrup containing less -sugar. -</p> - -<p id="fruitwaterice177"> -<strong>Ice, Water Fruit</strong>.—All sorts of water fruit ices can be -made by mixing half a pint of juice, such as currant-juice, with -twice that quantity of syrup, and freezing. Grated ripe pine-apple, -pounded and bruised, ripe cherries and greengages, -strawberry-juice, raspberry-juice, can be mixed with syrup and -frozen. Sometimes a little lemon-juice can be added with -advantage, and in the case of cherry ice and greengage ice a -little noyeau added is an improvement. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter13">CHAPTER XIII.</h2> - - <h3>CAKES AND BREAD.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - In vegetarian cookery there is no difference, as far as cake-making - is concerned, between it and ordinary cookery. In - making cakes we will confine our attention chiefly to general - principles which, if once known, render cake-making of every - description comparatively easy work. Those who wish for - detailed <em>recipes</em> for making almost every kind of cake known - will find all that they require on a large scale in “Cassell’s - Dictionary of Cookery,” and also everything necessary on a - smaller scale in “Cassell’s Shilling Cookery,” which has already - reached its hundred-thousandth edition. - </p> - - <p> -Cakes may be divided into two classes—those that contain -fruit and those that do not. Plum cakes can be made very -rich indeed, like a wedding cake, or so plain that it can scarcely -be distinguished from a loaf of bread with a few currants in it. -Again, cakes that contain no fruit can, at the same time, be -made exceedingly rich, the richness chiefly depending upon the -amount of butter and eggs that are used. We will first give -a few directions with regard to making what may be termed -plain cakes, <em>i.e.</em>, cakes that contain no fruit at all. Perhaps -the best model we can give to illustrate the general principles -will be that of a pound cake. The recipe is a very easy one -to recollect, as a pound cake means one that is made from a -pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of eggs, and a -pound of flour. There is one addition, however, which the -good plain cook will probably not be up to, and which, so far -as flavour is concerned, makes all the difference between -Francatelli and “Jemima Ann”—we must rub some of the -lumps of sugar on the outsides of either two oranges or two -lemons. It is also a great improvement to add a small glass -of brandy, and in every kind of cake we must add a pinch -of salt. -</p> - -<p id="poundcake179"> -In making cakes it is always necessary to be careful about -the butter. It is best to put the butter in cold water before -it is used, and, if salt butter, it should be washed in several -waters to extract the salt. The next thing necessary is to -beat the butter to a cream. To do this it must be worked -about in a basin with a wooden spoon. The basin should -be a strong one, and a wooden spoon is far preferable to a metal -one. You simply beat the butter and spread it against the -sides of the basin and knock it about till it loses its consistency. -You cannot beat the butter to the consistency of -ordinary cream, but to a state more resembling Devonshire -clotted cream. Of course, when it is like this it is much more -easily mixed with the other ingredients. In making a pound -cake we should first of all beat the butter to a cream and then -add flour, sugar, and eggs gradually. When the whole is -thoroughly well mixed together, we must bake it in a tin, or -mould, or hoop. We need say nothing about tins or moulds, -but will confine ourselves to giving directions how to bake a -cake in a hoop, for, as a rule, ordinary English cooks do not -understand how to use them. -</p> - -<p> -One great advantage of using a hoop is that when the cake -is baked there is no fear of breaking it in turning it out. A -very simple hoop can be made with an ordinary slip of tin, say -six inches wide; as the tin will lap over, the cake can be made -any size round you wish. It is a good plan to fasten a piece -of copper wire round the outside of the tin. This can be -twisted, and when the cake is baked and has got cold can be -untwisted, and the tin will then open of its own accord. The -tin must be lined with buttered paper, and buttered paper must -be placed on a flat piece of tin at the bottom. When an -“amateur hoop” is used like we have described, care must be -taken that the cake does not come out at the bottom. The -cake, especially when it is made with beaten-up eggs, like -sponge cake, will rise, and unless precautions are taken the -tin will rise with it, and the unset portion of the cake break -loose round the edge at the bottom. To prevent this the tin -must be kept down with a weight at the top. In a proper -hoop made for the purpose there are appliances for fastening -the hoop together itself and also for keeping it in its place, but -if we use a strip of tin we must place something across the tin -on the top and then put on a heavy weight. When this is -done, you must remember to allow room for the cake to rise. -A pound cake such as we have described can be made into a -rich fruit cake by adding stoned raisins, currants, chopped -candied peel, sultana raisins, or, better still, dried cherries. In -making ordinary cakes, when currants are used, they should -be first washed and then dried; if you use damp currants the -cake will probably be heavy. -</p> - -<p> -With regard to the flour, it is cheapest in the end to use -the best quality, and the flour should be dried and sifted. If -you weigh the flour remember to dry and sift it before you -weigh it, and not after. In using sugar get the best loaf; this -should also be pounded and sifted. -</p> - -<p> -In using eggs, of course each egg should be broken -separately. Very often it is necessary to separate the yolks -from the whites. This requires some little skill; you are less -likely to break the yolk when you crack the egg boldly. -Put the yolk from one half egg-shell into the other half, -spilling as much of the white as you can. You will soon get -the yolks separate. Next, remember before mixing the eggs -to remove the thread or string from them. When the -whites are beaten separately, you must whisk them till they -become a solid froth; no liquid should remain at the bottom -of the basin. The yolks should not be broken till they are -wanted. -</p> - -<p> -Lemon-peel is often used in making cakes, and in chopping -it a little powdered sugar is a great assistance in preventing -the peel sticking together. Remember only to use the <em>yellow</em> -part, not the white. The white part gives the cake a bitter -flavour. -</p> - -<p> -Sometimes milk or cream is used in cake-making. If Swiss -milk is used as a substitute, remember that less sugar will be -required. -</p> - -<p> -When pounded almonds are used for cakes, the almonds -must be blanched by being thrown, first into boiling water, -and then into cold water. In pounding them, add a little rose-water -or orange-flower water, or the white of an egg, to prevent -the almonds getting oily. -</p> - -<p id="bakingpowder180"> -Nearly all plain cakes, where only a few eggs are used, will -be made lighter by the addition of a little baking-powder. A -very good baking-powder is made by mixing an ounce of tartaric -acid with an ounce and a half of bicarbonate of soda, -and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. The baking powder -should be kept very dry. -</p> - -<p> -A very nice way of making home-made cakes is to use some -dough, which can be procured from the baker’s. Suppose you -have a quartern of dough, put it in a basin, cover it over with -a cloth, and put it in front of the fire to rise, then spread it on -a floured pastry-board, slice it up, and work in half a pound -of fresh butter, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, a teaspoonful -of salt, and half an ounce of caraway seeds. When -all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, place them in two or -more well-buttered tins or hoops, and let them stand in front -of the fire a little while before they are placed in the oven. -Cakes can be flavoured with a variety of spices, such as cinnamon, -mace, nutmeg, or powdered coriander seeds. These last -are always used to give a special flavour to hot cross buns. -</p> - -<p id="bread180"> -<strong>Bread</strong>.—Home-made bread is not so much used now as it -was years back. Most housekeepers have found by experience -that it is a waste both of time and money. There are very -few houses among the middle classes which possess an oven -capable of competing with any chance of success with a baker’s -oven. There are, however, many vegetarians who believe in -what is called whole-meal bread. A good deal of the whole-meal -bread sold as such has been found to be adulterated with -substances very unwholesome to ordinary stomachs. We may -mention saw-dust as one of the ingredients used for the purpose. -Again, if you attempt to make whole-meal bread into -loaves, you will find great difficulty in baking the loaves. This -whole-meal is a very slow conductor of heat, and the result -will probably be that the outside of the loaf will be very hard -while the inside will be too underdone to be eaten. Consequently, -should you wish to have home-made whole-meal bread, -it is far best to bake it in the form of a tea-cake or flat-cake. -We cannot do better, in conclusion, than quote what Sir Henry -Thompson says on this subject:—“The following recipe,” he -says, “will be found successful, probably, after a trial or two, in -producing excellent, light, friable, and most palatable bread: -To two pounds of coarsely ground or crushed whole-meal, -add half a pound of fine flour and a sufficient quantity of -baking powder and salt; when these are well mixed, rub in -two ounces of butter, and make into dough with half milk and -water, or with all milk if preferred. Make rapidly into flat -cakes like ‘tea-cakes,’ and bake without delay in a quick -oven, leaving them afterwards to finish thoroughly at a lower -temperature. The butter and milk supply fatty matters, in -which the wheat is somewhat deficient; all the saline and -mineral matters of the husk are retained; and thus a more -nutritive form of bread cannot be made. Moreover, it retains -the natural flavour of the wheat, in place of the insipidity -which is characteristic of fine flour, although it is indisputable -that bread produced from the latter, especially in Paris and -Vienna, is unrivalled for delicacy, texture, and colour. Whole -meal may be bought; but mills are now cheaply made for -home use, and wheat may be ground to any degree of coarseness -desired.” -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter14">CHAPTER XIV.</h2> - - <h3>PIES AND PUDDINGS.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made - in the same way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception - that we cannot use lard or dripping in making our pastry. - Nor are we allowed to use suet in making crust for puddings. - It would have been quite impossible to have given even one - quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, - and we must refer those who wish for information on this - subject to “Cassell’s Shilling Cookery,” where will be found a - very complete list, but which would have occupied the whole - of the space which we have devoted to recipes where vegetarian - cookery, as a rule, <em>differs</em> from the ordinary. - </p> - -<p> -We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to -the two points we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry -without lard or dripping, and pudding crust without suet. The -first of these two points causes no difficulty whatever, as the -best pastry, especially that known as puff paste, is invariably -made with butter only as the fatty element; but there is one -point we must not overlook. -</p> - -<p> -Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use -the animal products—butter, milk, cream, and eggs—and -those who do not. This latter class contains, probably, the -most respected members of the vegetarian body, as it will -always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid by -all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to -make pastry, butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We -fear we cannot tell them how to make good puff paste; but -“Necessity is the mother of invention,” and naturally olive oil -must supply the place of butter. -</p> - -<p id="pastrywithoutbutter183"> -<strong>Pastry without Butter</strong>.—We will describe how to make -a small quantity, which is always best when we make experiments. Take half -a pound of the best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a -salt-spoonful of baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, -and work the oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a -small piece of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff -paste. Next add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; -roll it out and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the -method used in making high-class pastry. -</p> - -<p> -We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is -used more oil may be added. -</p> - -<p> -We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature -than water, consequently the minute particles of oil -become partially solid. Now take the paste, roll it out, and -give it three turns; roll it out again, give it three more turns, -and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be -careful to flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By -this means we get the pastry in thin layers, with minute air -bubbles between them, and this will cause the pastry to rise. -If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the last time, -cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the -pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a -very cold place. -</p> - -<p id="pastryforpuddings184"> -This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be -utilised for puddings, in which latter case we would recommend -the addition of a little more baking-powder, and to every -pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of very fine bread-crumbs. -These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine sieve. -</p> - -<p id="pastrywithbutter184"> -<strong>Pastry with Butter</strong>.—Good puff paste is made by taking -equal quantities of butter and flour—say a pound of each—the -yolk of one egg, a pinch of salt, while the water used is acidulated -with lemon-juice. For the manipulation of this pastry -we must refer those who do not know how to make it to -other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. -In making ordinary paste we must use less butter; -and when we use considerably less butter, if we wish -the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder. The -quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many -persons make their own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend -any better than the recipe given in the last chapter, -viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half of bicarbonate -of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A -great deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna -flour is much more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably -superior. What limit we can assign to the quantity of -butter used it is impossible to say. A quarter of a pound of -butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of baking-powder, -will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the -result is not altogether satisfactory. -</p> - -<p id="puddings182"> -<strong>Puddings</strong>.—We next come to the very large class of puddings -in which suet is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case -in point. The best substitute for suet, of course, is butter or -oil; a plum pudding, however, made without suet, would undoubtedly -be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must use butter, -bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to -give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients. -Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum -pudding, and no flour, in which case, of course, a very considerable -number of eggs must be used or else the pudding will -break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being used as a -substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the -oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted -English prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, -and it has often been remarked by high-class authorities -that really pure butter ought to be the same. We fear, however, -that purity in food is the exception rather than the rule, -as at no period of this country’s history has the crime of -adulteration been so rampant as in the present day. -</p> - -<p> -Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. -Too often adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. -Steps have been taken in recent years to put a stop to this -universal system of fraud, more especially in connection with -butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the “Margarine -Act” we believe that this country would be richer and happier, -and without doubt more healthy. -</p> - -<p> -In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, -cabinet pudding, there is no difference whatever in vegetarian -cookery. It would be quite impossible to make any of these -puddings without eggs, and when eggs are used we may take for -granted that butter is allowed also. -</p> - -<p> -We have, throughout, called particular attention to -the importance of appearances. In the case of all puddings -made with eggs and baked in a dish, it is a very great -improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg, and to -beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar. -When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white -froth, and let it set by placing it in a slack oven for two or -three minutes. Whether the pudding is served hot or cold, -the result is the same. An otherwise plain and somewhat -common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the -only extra expense being a little <em>trouble</em>. -</p> - -<p> -We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: -“Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might.” -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="index">INDEX.</h2> - - <ul> - - <li><a href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande Sauce</a>, 44</li> - - <li><a href="#almondcheesecakes170">Almond Cheesecakes</a>, 170 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#almondsauce044">Sauce</a>, 44</li> - <li><a href="#almondsauceclear045">Sauce, Clear</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#almondsoup023">Soup</a>, 23</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#applecheesecakes170">Apple Cheesecakes</a>, 170 - <ul> - <li><a href="#applecustard168">Custard</a>, 168</li> - <li><a href="#applefritters118">Fritters</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#applejamandjelly161">Jam</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#applejamandjelly161">Jelly</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#applesauce045">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#applesoup024">Soup</a>, 24</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#stewedapples172">Apples, Stewed</a>, 172</li> - - <li><a href="#apricotfritters119">Apricot Fritters</a>, 119 - <ul> - <li><a href="#apricotjam164">Jam</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#apricotjelly163">Jelly</a>, 163</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#tinnedapricots155">Apricots Tinned</a>, 155 - <ul> - <li><a href="#peachesandapricotswithcream156">with Cream</a>, 156</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#herbaciousmixture032">Aromatic Herbs</a>, 32</li> - - <li><a href="#arrowrootsauce045">Arrowroot Sauce</a>, 45</li> - - <li><a href="#frenchartichokes137">Artichokes, French</a>, 137 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchartichokesalaprovencale137">à la Provençale</a>, 137</li> - <li><a href="#frenchartichokes137">Boiled</a>, 137</li> - <li><a href="#friedfrenchartichokes137">Fried</a>, 137</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesalad102">Salad</a>, 102</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#jerusalemartichokes137">Artichoke, Jerusalem</a>, 137 - <ul> - <li><a href="#friedjerusalemartichokes138">Fried</a>, 138</li> - <li><a href="#mashedjerusalemartichokes138">Mashed</a>, 138</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesauce045">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesoup024">Soup</a>, 24</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandasparagus085">Asparagus and Eggs</a>, 85 - <ul> - <li><a href="#boiledasparagus139">Boiled</a>, 139</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussalad101">Salad</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussauce045">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussoup024">Soup</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedasparagus153">Tinned</a>, 153</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#ayoli115">Ayoli</a>, 115</li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#bakingpowder180">Baking-Powder</a>, 180</li> - - <li><a href="#bananafritters119">Banana Fritters</a>, 119</li> - - <li><a href="#riceandbarleyporridge075">Barley and Rice Porridge</a>, 75 - <ul> - <li><a href="#barleysoup025">Soup</a>, 25</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#fritterbatter116">Batter for Fritters</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#broadbeans139">Beans, Broad</a>, 139 - <ul> - <li><a href="#broadbeansalabourgeoise139">à la Bourgeoise</a>, 139</li> - <li><a href="#broadbeansalapoulette139">à la Poulette</a>, 139</li> - <li><a href="#mashedbroadbeans139">Mashed</a>, 139</li> - <li><a href="#broadbeansalad103">Salad</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#frenchbeans139">Beans, French</a>, 139 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchbeanspudding140">Pudding</a>, 140</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansalad102">Salad</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedfrenchbeans154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#haricotbeans131">Beans, Haricot</a>, 131 - <ul> - <li><a href="#haricotbeansalad103">Salad</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">Soup, Red</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">Soup, White</a>, 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#beetrootsalad102">Beetroot Salad</a>, 102 - <ul> - <li><a href="#beetrootsoup026">Soup</a>, 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackbutter048">Beurre Noir</a>, 48</li> - - <li><a href="#blackberryjam164">Blackberry Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#blackberryjelly158">Jelly</a>, 158</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackbutter048">Black Butter</a>, 48 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsandblackbutter086">and Eggs</a>, 86</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjam164">Black Currant Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjelly160">Jelly</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantsauce050">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#bread180">Bread</a>, 180 - <ul> - <li><a href="#breadandmilk075">and Milk</a>, 75</li> - <li><a href="#potatobread129">Potato</a>, 129</li> - <li><a href="#breadsauce045">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - <li>W<a href="#bread180">hole-Meal</a>, 180</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#brocoli141">Brocoli</a>, 141 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brocoligreens141">Greens</a>, 141</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#brownmushroomsauce055">Brown Mushroom Sauce</a>, 55 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsauce055">Onion Sauce</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#roux022">Roux</a>, 22</li> - <li><a href="#roux022">Thickening</a>, 22</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#brusselssprouts141">Brussels Sprouts</a>, 141 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tinnedbrusselssprouts154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackbutter048">Butter, Black</a>, 48 - <ul> - <li><a href="#maitredhotelsauce053">Maître - d’Hôtel</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#oiledbutter048">Melted</a>, 48</li> - <li><a href="#oiledbutter048">Oiled</a>, 48</li> - <li><a href="#buttersauce046">Sauce</a>, 46</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#cabbage142">Cabbage</a>, 142 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cabbageandcream143">and Cream</a>, 143</li> - <li><a href="#riceandcabbage063">and Rice</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#largewhitecabbage142">large White</a>, 142</li> - <li><a href="#redcabbage143">Red</a>, 143</li> - <li><a href="#cabbagesoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#chapter13">Cakes</a>, 177 - - <ul> - <li><a href="#parsnipcake147">Parsnip</a>, 147</li> - <li><a href="#poundcake179">Pound</a>, 179</li> - </ul> - - </li> - - <li><a href="#capersauce049">Caper Sauce</a>, 49</li> - - <li><a href="#carrotjam164">Carrot Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#carrotsauce049">Sauce</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#carrotsoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#boiledcarrots143">Carrots, Boiled</a>, 143 - <ul> - <li><a href="#friedcarrots144">Fried</a>, 144</li> - <li><a href="#mashedcarrots144">Mashed</a>, 144</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedcarrots154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cauliflowerandtomatosauce145">Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce</a>, 145 - <ul> - <li><a href="#caulifloweraugratin144">au gratin</a>, 144</li> - <li><a href="#boiledcauliflower144">Boiled</a>, 144</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersalad104">Salad</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersauce049">Sauce</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersoup028">Soup</a>, 28</li> - </ul> - - </li> - - <li><a href="#riceborder064">Casseroles</a>, 64</li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandcelery085">Celery and Eggs</a>, 85 - <ul> - <li><a href="#celerysalad103">Salad</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#celerysauce049">Sauce</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#celerysoup029">Soup</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#stewedcelery145">Stewed</a>, 145</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cheesecakes165">Cheesecakes</a>, 165-168 - <ul> - <li><a href="#almondcheesecakes170">Almond</a>, 170</li> - <li><a href="#applecheesecakes170">Apple</a>, 170</li> - <li><a href="#cheesecakesfromcurds169">from Curds</a>, 169</li> - <li><a href="#orangecheesecake170">Orange</a>, 170</li> - <li><a href="#potatocheesecake169">Potato</a>, 169</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandcheese089">Cheese and Eggs</a>, 89 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cheeseandfriedbread113">and Fried Bread</a>, 113</li> - <li><a href="#riceandcheese063">and Rice</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#devilledcheese114">Devilled</a>, 114</li> - <li><a href="#cheesefritters117">Fritters</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#cheeseramequins114">Ramequins</a>, 114 </li> - <li><a href="#cheesesandwiches107">Sandwiches</a>, 107</li> - <li><a href="#cheesesavoury113">Savoury</a>, 113</li> - <li><a href="#cheesesouffle092">Soufflé</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#cheesesoup029">Soup</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#stewedcheese114">Stewed</a>, 114</li> - <li><a href="#cheesestraws114">Straws</a>, 114</li> - <li><a href="#toastedcheese114">Toasted</a>, 114</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cherrysauce049">Cherry Sauce</a>, 49 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cherrysoup029">Soup</a>, 29</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#stewedcherries174">Cherries, Stewed</a>, 174</li> - - <li><a href="#chestnutsauce049">Chestnut Sauce</a>, 49 - <ul> - <li><a href="#chestnutsoup030">Soup</a>, 30</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#macaroniandchestnuts072">Chestnuts and Macaroni</a>, 72</li> - - <li><a href="#chocolatecream166">Chocolate Cream</a>, 166 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mangochutneysauce053">Chutney Sauce</a>, 53</li> - - <li><a href="#cinnamonsauce049">Cinnamon Sauce</a>, 49</li> - - <li><a href="#clearsoup030">Clear Soup</a>, 30</li> - - <li><a href="#cocoanutsauce049">Cocoanut Sauce</a>, 49 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cocoanutsoup031">Soup</a>, 31</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#coffeecream166">Coffee Cream</a>, 166 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cottagesoup030">Cottage Soup</a>, 30</li> - - <li><a href="#macaroniandcream073">Cream and Macaroni</a>, 73 - <ul> - <li><a href="#creamcheesesandwiches107">Cheese Sandwiches</a>, 107</li> - <li><a href="#chocolatecream166">Chocolate</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#coffeecream166">Coffee</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#creamfritters120">Fritters</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#lemoncream166">Lemon</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#maraschinocream166">Maraschino</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#orangecream166">Orange</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#pistachiocream167">Pistachio</a>, 167</li> - <li><a href="#strawberrycream167">Strawberry</a>, 167</li> - <li><a href="#vanillacream166">Vanilla</a>, 166</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#creams165">Creams</a>, 165</li> - - <li><a href="#potatocroquettes127">Croquettes, Potato</a>, 127 - <ul> - <li><a href="#ricecroquettes065">Rice</a>, 65</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandcucumber088">Cucumber and Eggs</a>, 88 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cucumbersalad102">Salad</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#cucumbersauce049">Sauce</a>, 49</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackcurrantsauce050">Currant Sauce, Black</a>, 50 - <ul> - <li> - <ul> - <li><a href="#redcurrantsauce050">Red</a>, 50</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjam164">Black, Jam</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjelly160">Black, Jelly</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjam164">Red, Jam</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjelly161">Red, Jelly</a>, 161</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#curriedeggs082">Curried Eggs</a>, 82 - <ul> - <li><a href="#curriedlentils136">Lentils</a>, 136</li> - <li><a href="#curriedrice063">Rice</a> 63</li> - <li><a href="#curriedvegetables151">Curried Vegetables</a>, 151</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#currysauce050">Curry Sauce</a>, 50</li> - - <li><a href="#applecustard168">Custard, Apple</a>, 168 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cheapcustard168">Cheap</a>, 168</li> - <li><a href="#custardfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#custards167">Custards</a>, 167</li> - - <li><a href="#potatocroquettes127">Cutlets, Potato</a>, 127</li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#damsonjam164">Damson Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#damsonjelly162">Jelly</a>, 162</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#dandelionsalad103">Dandelion Salad</a>, 103</li> - - <li><a href="#devilledcheese114">Devilled Cheese</a>, 114 - <ul> - <li><a href="#devilledeggs082">Eggs</a>, 82</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch Sauce</a>, 51 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greendutchsauce051">Green</a>, 51</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggballs083">Egg Balls</a>, 83 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggforcemeat083">Forcemeat</a>, 83</li> - <li><a href="#eggsalad099">Salad</a>, 99</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandwiches106">Sandwiches</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#eggsauce051">Sauce</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#eggtoast085">Toast</a>, 85</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#chapter4">Eggs</a>, 78 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsalabonnefemme083">à la bonne femme</a>, 83</li> - <li><a href="#eggsaladauphine085">à la Dauphine</a>, 85</li> - <li><a href="#eggsalatripe083">à la tripe</a>, 83</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandasparagus085">and Asparagus</a>, 85 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsandblackbutter086">Black Butter</a>, 86</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandcelery085">Celery</a>, 85</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandcheese089">Cheese</a>, 89</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandcucumber088">Cucumber</a>, 88</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandgarlic086">Garlic</a>, 86</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandmushrooms086">Mushrooms</a>, 86</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandonions087">Onions</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandpotatoes087">Potatoes</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#riceandeggs066">Rice</a>, 66</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandsaucerobert087">Sauce Robert</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandsorrel087">Sorrel</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandspinach085">Spinach</a>, 85</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandturniptops085">Turnip-tops</a>, 85</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#eggsaugratin084">au gratin</a>, 84</li> - <li><a href="#boiledeggs078">Boiled</a>, 78 - <ul> - <li><a href="#hardboiledeggs081">Hard</a>, 81</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#broiledeggs087">Broiled</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#butteredeggs088">Buttered</a>, 88</li> - <li><a href="#curriedeggs082">Curried</a>, 82</li> - <li><a href="#devilledeggs082">Devilled</a>, 82</li> - <li><a href="#friedeggs080">Fried</a>, 80</li> - <li><a href="#eggsinsunshine088">in Sunshine</a>, 88</li> - <li><a href="#littleeggs089">Little</a>, 89</li> - <li><a href="#poachedeggs081">Poached</a>, 81</li> - <li><a href="#scrambledeggs088">Scrambled</a>, 88</li> - <li><a href="#tobreakeggs080">To Break</a>, 80</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#endive145">Endive</a>, 145 - <ul> - <li><a href="#endivesalad100">Salad</a>, 100</li> - <li><a href="#endivesoup031">Soup</a>, 31</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#englishsalad097">English Salad</a>, 97</li> - - <li><a href="#spinachextract025">Extract of Spinach</a>, 25</li> -</ul> - -<ul> - <li><a href="#fennelsauce051">Fennel Sauce</a>, 51</li> - - <li><a href="#flageolets133">Flageolets</a>, 133 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tinnedflageolets154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#fonddartichokes155">Fond d’Artichokes</a>, 155</li> - - <li><a href="#eggforcemeat083">Forcemeat of Egg</a>, 83 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mushroomforcemeat110">of Mushroom</a>, 110</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#frangipanefritters120">Frangipane Fritters</a>, 120</li> - - <li><a href="#frenchbeans139">French Beans</a>, 139 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansalad102">Bean Salad</a>, 102 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeanspudding140">Pudding</a>, 140</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#frenchsalad097">Salad</a>, 97</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#fritters116">Fritters</a>, 116 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Almond</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#applefritters118">Apple</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#apricotfritters119">Apricot</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#bananafritters119">Banana</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#fritterbatter116">Batter for</a>, 116</li> - <li><a href="#cheesefritters117">Cheese</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Chocolate</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Coffee</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#creamfritters120">Cream</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#custardfritters119">Custard</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#frangipanefritters120">Frangipane</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#gamefritters117">Game</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#germanfritters121">German</a>, 121</li> - <li><a href="#riceandgingerfritters121">Ginger and Rice</a>, 121</li> - <li><a href="#hominyfritters117">Hominy</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomfritters116">Mushroom</a>, 116</li> - <li><a href="#orangefritters120">Orange</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplefritters120">Pine Apple</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#peachfritters120">Peach</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#potatofritters120">Potato</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#ricefritters121">Rice</a>, 121</li> - <li><a href="#sageandonionfritters118">Sage and Onion</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#spinachfritters118">Spinach</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#sweetfritters118">Sweet</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#tomatofritters117">Tomato</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Vanilla</a>, 119</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#compoteoffruit171">Fruit, Compote of</a>, 171 - <ul> - <li><a href="#fruitsoup031">Soup</a>, 31</li> - <li><a href="#compoteoffruit171">Stewed</a>, 171</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#bottledfruits157">Fruits, Bottled</a>, 157 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tinnedfruits155">Tinned</a>, 155</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#frumenty076">Frumenty</a>, 76</li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#gamefritters117">Game Fritters</a>, 117</li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandgarlic086">Garlic and Eggs</a>, 86</li> - - <li><a href="#littleeggs089">Garnish of Eggs</a>, 89</li> - - <li><a href="#germanfritters121">German Fritters</a>, 121 - <ul> - <li><a href="#germansalad100">Salad</a>, 100</li> - <li><a href="#germansweetsauce051">Sauce</a>, 51</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#gingersauce052">Ginger Sauce</a>, 52</li> - - <li><a href="#gooseberrysauce052">Gooseberry Sauce</a>, 52</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedgooseberries173">Gooseberries, Stewed</a>, 173</li> - - <li><a href="#greenbeansoup027">Green Bean Soup</a>, 27 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greendutchsauce051">Dutch Sauce</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#greenmayonnaisesauce054">Mayonnaise Sauce</a>, 54</li> - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">Pea Soup, Dried</a>, 37 - <ul> - <li><a href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">Fresh</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - - <ul> - - <li><a href="#haresoup032">Hare Soup</a>, 32</li> - - <li><a href="#haricotbeans131">Haricot Beans</a>, 131 - <ul> - <li><a href="#haricotbeansalad103">Bean Salad</a>, 103 - <ul> - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">Soup, Red</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">White</a>, 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#herbaciousmixture032">Herbaceous Mixture</a>, 32</li> - - <li><a href="#herbaciousmixture032">Herbs, Aromatic</a>, 32</li> - - <li><a href="#hominy076">Hominy</a>, 76 - <ul> - <li><a href="#friedhominy076">Fried</a>, 76</li> - <li><a href="#hominyfritters117">Fritters</a>, 117</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#hopsalad104">Hop Salad</a>, 104</li> - - <li><a href="#horseradishsauce052">Horseradish Sauce</a>, 52</li> - - <li><a href="#hotchpotch032">Hotch Potch</a>, 32</li> - -</ul> - -<ul> -<li><a href="#cheapicecream176">Ice Cream</a>, 176 -<ul> -<li><a href="#lemonwaterice176">Lemon Water</a>, 176</li> -<li><a href="#orangewaterice176">Orange Water</a>, 176</li> -<li><a href="#fruitwaterice177">Water Fruit</a>, 177</li> -</ul> -</li> - -<li><a href="#ices174">Ices</a>, 174 -<ul> -<li><a href="#icesfromfreshfruit176">from Fresh Fruit</a>, 176</li> -<li><a href="#icesfromjams176">from Jams</a>, 176</li> -</ul> -</li> - -<li><a href="#indianpicklesauce053">Indian Pickle Sauce</a>, 53 -<ul> -<li><a href="#indiansandwiches106">Sandwiches</a>, 106</li> -</ul> -</li> - -<li><a href="#italiansalad104">Italian Salad</a>, 104 -<ul> -<li><a href="#italiansauce053">Sauce</a>, 53</li> -</ul> -</li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#applejamandjelly161">Jam Apple</a>, 161 - <ul> - <li><a href="#apricotjam164">Apricot</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#blackberryjam164">Blackberry</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjam164">Black Currant</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#carrotjam164">Carrot</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#damsonjam164">Damson</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#gooseberryjam164">Gooseberry</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#greengagejam164">Greengage</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#plumjam164">Plum</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#raspberryjam164">Raspberry</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjam164">Red Currant</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#rhubarbjam164">Rhubarb</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#strawberryjam164">Strawberry</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#vegetablemarrowjam164">Vegetable Marrow</a>, 164</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#jams163">Jams</a>, 163</li> - - <li><a href="#jardinieresoup033">Jardinière Soup</a>, 33</li> - - <li><a href="#chapter10">Jellies</a>, 158</li> - - <li><a href="#applejamandjelly161">Jelly, Apple</a>, 161 - <ul> - <li><a href="#apricotjelly163">Apricot</a>, 163</li> - <li><a href="#blackberryjelly158">Blackberry</a>, 158</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjelly160">Black Currant</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#damsonjelly162">Damson</a>, 162</li> - <li><a href="#lemonjelly159">Lemon</a>, 159</li> - <li><a href="#mulberryjelly163">Mulberry</a>, 163</li> - <li><a href="#orangejelly160">Orange</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplejelly162">Pine Apple</a>, 162</li> - <li><a href="#raspberryjelly161">Raspberry</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjelly161">Red Currant</a>, 161</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#juliennesoup033">Julienne Soup</a>, 33</li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - - <li><a href="#scotchkale148">Kale, Scotch</a>, 148 - <ul> - <li><a href="#seakale148">Sea</a>, 148</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - -<ul> - <li><a href="#leeksoup033">Leek Soup</a>, 33</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedleeks145">Leeks, Stewed</a>, 145 - <ul> - <li><a href="#welshporridge146">Welsh Porridge</a>, 146</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#lemoncream166">Lemon Cream</a>, 166 - <ul> - <li><a href="#lemonjelly159">Jelly</a>, 159</li> - <li><a href="#lemonwaterice176">Water, Ice</a>, 176</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#lentilporridge075">Lentil Porridge</a>, 75 - <ul> - <li><a href="#lentilalasoubise034">Purée a la Soubise</a>, - 34</li> - <li><a href="#lentilsoup033">Soup</a>, 33</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#lentils135">Lentils</a>, 135 - <ul> - <li><a href="#lentilsalaprovencale136">à la a Provençale</a>, 136</li> - <li><a href="#boiledlentils136">Boiled</a>, 136</li> - <li><a href="#curriedlentils136">Curried</a>, 136</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#frenchsalad097">Lettuce Salad</a>, 97</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedlettuces146">Lettuces, Stewed</a>, 146 - <ul> - <li><a href="#stewedlettuceswithpeas146">with Peas</a>, 146</li> - </ul> - </li> -</ul> - -<ul> -<li><a href="#macaroni067">Macaroni</a>, 67 -<ul> -<li><a href="#macaronialareine069">à la Reine</a>, 69</li> -<li><a href="#macaronicheese068">and Cheese</a>, 68 -<ul> -<li><a href="#macaroniandchestnuts072">Chestnuts</a>, 72</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniandcream073">Cream</a>, 73</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniandeggs069">Eggs</a>, 69</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniandtomatoes072">Tomatoes</a>, 72</li> -</ul> -</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniasanornament070">as an Ornament</a>, 70</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniaugratin069">au gratin</a>, 69</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniitalianfashion068">Italian Fashion</a>, 68</li> -<li><a href="#macaroninudels071">Nudels</a>, 71</li> -<li><a href="#savourymacaroni072">Savoury</a>, 72</li> -<li><a href="#scollopedmacaroni070">Scolloped</a>, 70</li> -<li><a href="#clearmacaronisoup034">Soup, Clear</a>, 34</li> -<li><a href="#thickmacaronisoup034">Soup, Thick</a>, 34</li> -<li><a href="#timbaleofmacaroni070">Timbale of</a>, 70</li> -</ul> -</li> - - <li><a href="#macedoines155">Macedoines</a>, 155</li> - - <li><a href="#maitredhotelsauce053">Maître d’Hôtel - Sauce</a>, 53 - <ul> - <li><a href="#maitredhotelsauce053">Butter</a>, 53</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mangochutneysauce053">Mango Chutney Sauce</a>, 53</li> - - <li><a href="#maraschinocream166">Maraschino Cream</a>, 166</li> - - <li><a href="#mayonnaisesalad098">Mayonnaise Salad</a>, 98 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mayonnaisesauce053">Sauce</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#greenmayonnaisesauce054">Sauce, Green</a>, 54</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#melonsalad105">Melon Salad</a>, 105</li> - - <li><a href="#milkporridge075">Milk Porridge</a>, 75 - <ul> - <li><a href="#milksoup035">Soup</a>, 35</li> - <li><a href="#milktoast077">Toast</a>, 77</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mintsauce054">Mint Sauce</a>, 54</li> - - <li><a href="#mockturtlesoup035">Mock Turtle Soup</a>, 35</li> - - <li><a href="#mulberryjelly163">Mulberry Jelly</a>, 163</li> - - <li><a href="#mulligatawnysoup035">Mulligatawny Soup</a>, 35</li> - - <li><a href="#allemandesauce044">Mushroom, Essence of</a>, 44 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mushroomforcemeat110">Forcemeat</a>, 110</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomfritters116">Fritters</a>, 116</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompie110">Pie</a>, 110 - <ul> - <li><a href="#coldmushroompie110">Cold</a>, 110</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#mushroompudding111">Pudding</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompureesauce055">Purée of</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsandwiches106">Sandwiches</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsauce054">Sauce</a>, 54 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownmushroomsauce055">Brown</a>, 55</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mushrooms108">Mushrooms</a>, 108 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mushroomsalabordelaise110">à la Bordelaise</a>, 110</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsalaprovencale110">à la Provencale</a>, 110</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandmushrooms086">and Eggs</a>, 86</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsaugratin109">au gratin</a>, 109</li> - <li><a href="#friedmushrooms109">Fried</a>, 109</li> - <li><a href="#plainmushrooms108">Plain</a>, 108</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mustardsauce055">Mustard Sauce</a>, 55</li> - - <li><a href="#mustardandcresssalad104">Mustard and Cress</a>, 104 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mustardandcresssandwiches106">Sandwiches</a>, 106</li> - </ul> - </li> - -</ul> - -<ul> - <li><a href="#nalesnikis116">Nalesnikis</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#toboilnettles151">Nettles, To Boil</a>, 151</li> -</ul> - -<ul> - - <li><a href="#milkporridge075">Oatmeal Porridge</a>, 73</li> - - <li><a href="#oiledbutter048">Oiled Butter</a>, 48</li> - - <li><a href="#omeletaukirsch095">Omelet au Kirsch</a>, 95 - <ul> - <li><a href="#omeletaurhum095">au Rhum</a>, 95</li> - <li><a href="#cheeseomelet092">Cheese</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#fineherbsomelet092">Fine Herbs</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#onionomelet092">Onion</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#plainomelet091">Plain</a>, 91</li> - <li><a href="#potatoomelet092">Potato</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#sweetpotatoomelet092">Potato, Sweet</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#omeletsouffle093">Soufflée</a>, 93</li> - <li><a href="#sweetomelet094">Sweet</a>, 94</li> - <li><a href="#vegetableomelet095">Vegetable</a>, 95</li> - <li><a href="#omeletwithjam094">with Jam</a>, 94</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#omelets089">Omelets</a>, 89</li> - - <li><a href="#onionomelet092">Onion Omelet</a>, 92 - <ul> - <li><a href="#onionsalad104">Salad</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#onionsauce055">Sauce</a>, 55 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsauce055">Brown</a>, 55</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#onionsoup035">Soup</a>, 35 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsoup036">Brown</a>, 36</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandonions087">Onions and Eggs</a>, 87 - <ul> - <li><a href="#bakedonions146">Baked</a>, 146</li> - <li><a href="#plainonions146">Plain</a>, 146</li> - <li><a href="#stewedonions147">Stewed</a>, 147</li> - <li><a href="#stuffedonions115">Stuffed</a>, 115</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#orangecheesecake170">Orange Cheesecakes</a>, 170 - <ul> - <li><a href="#orangecream166">Cream</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#orangefritters120">Fritters</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#orangejelly160">Jelly</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#orangecreamsauce056">Sauce</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#orangewaterice176">Water Ice</a>, 176</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#oxtailsoup036">Ox-tail Soup</a>, 36</li> - -</ul> - -<ul> - <li><a href="#artichokesoup024">Palestine Soup</a>, 24</li> - - <li><a href="#nalesnikis116">Pancakes, Polish</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#parsleysauce056">Parsley Sauce</a>, 56 - <ul> - <li>To Blanch, </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#parsnipcake147">Parsnip Cake</a>, 147 - <ul> - <li><a href="#parsnipsoup036">Soup</a>, 36</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#parsnips147">Parsnips</a>, 147 - <ul> - <li><a href="#friedparsnips147">Fried</a>, 147</li> - <li><a href="#mashedparsnips147">Mashed</a>, 147</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#pastrywithbutter184">Paste for Pies</a>, 184. - <ul> - <li> - <ul> - <li><a href="#puddings182">Puddings</a>, 185.</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#pastrywithoutbutter183">without Butter</a>, 183.</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#peachfritters120">Peach Fritters</a>, 120</li> - - <li><a href="#tinnedpeaches156">Peaches, Tinned</a>, 156 - <ul> - <li><a href="#peachesandapricotswithcream156">with Cream</a>, 156</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">Pea Soup, Dried Green</a>, 37 - <ul> - <li><a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">Split Peas</a>, 37</li> - <li><a href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">Fresh Green</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#boiledpeas148">Peas, Boiled</a>, 148 - <ul> - <li><a href="#peasbrose134">Brose</a>, 134</li> - <li><a href="#driedpeas133">Dried</a>, 133</li> - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeaswithcream135">Dried Green with Cream</a>, 135</li> - <li><a href="#driedwholegreenpeas134">Dried whole Green</a>, 134</li> - <li><a href="#greenpeas148">Green</a>, 148</li> - <li><a href="#peaspudding134">Pudding</a>, 134</li> - <li><a href="#stewedpeas148">Stewed</a>, 148</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedpeas153">Tinned</a>, 153</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#pearsoup037">Pear Soup</a>, 37</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedpears173">Pears, Stewed</a>, 173 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tinnedpears156">Tinned</a>, 156</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mushroompie110">Pie, Mushroom</a>, 110 - <ul> - <li><a href="#coldmushroompie110">Mushroom, Cold</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#potatopie112">Potato</a>, 112</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinpie113">Pumpkin</a>, 113</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#chapter14">Pies and Puddings, General</a>, 183 - <ul> - <li><a href="#pastrywithbutter184">Paste for</a>, 184.</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#pineapplefritters120">Pine Apple Fritters</a>, 120 - <ul> - <li><a href="#fruitwaterice177">Ice</a>, 177</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplejelly162">Jelly</a>, 162</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplesauce056">Sauce</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedpineapple156">Tinned</a>, 156</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#piroskisernikis116">Piroski Sernikis</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#pistachiocream167">Pistachio Cream</a>, 167</li> - - <li><a href="#plumjam164">Plum Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#plumsauce056">Sauce</a>, 56</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#stewedplums174">Plums, Stewed</a>, 174</li> - - <li><a href="#polenta115">Polenta</a>, 115</li> - - <li><a href="#poachedeggs081">Poached Eggs</a>, 81</li> - - <li><a href="#poivradesauce057">Poivrade Sauce</a>, 57</li> - - <li><a href="#nalesnikis116">Polish Pancakes</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#riceandbarleyporridge075">Porridge, Barley and Rice</a>, - 75 - <ul> - <li><a href="#milkporridge075">Milk</a>, 75</li> - <li><a href="#lentilporridge075">Lentil</a>, 75</li> - <li><a href="#oatmealporridge073">Oatmeal</a>, 73</li> - <li><a href="#sagoporridge077">Sago</a>, 77</li> - <li><a href="#wholemealporridge075">Whole Meal</a>, 75</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#potatoballs127">Potato Balls</a>, 127 - <ul> - <li><a href="#potatobiscuits129">Biscuits</a>, 129</li> - <li><a href="#potatoborder128">Border</a>, 128</li> - <li><a href="#potatobread129">Bread</a>, 129</li> - <li><a href="#potatocake129">Cake</a>, 129</li> - <li><a href="#potatocheese130">Cheese</a>, 130</li> - <li><a href="#potatocheesecake169">Cheesecake</a>, 169</li> - <li><a href="#potatochips126">Chips</a>, 126</li> - <li><a href="#potatocroquettes127">Croquettes</a>, 127</li> - <li><a href="#potatofritters120">Fritters</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#potatoomelet092">Omelet</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#sweetpotatoomelet092">Omelet, Sweet</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#potatoribbon126">Ribbon</a>, 126</li> - <li><a href="#potatosalad101">Salad</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#potatosoup038">Soup</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandpotatoes087">Potatoes and Eggs</a>, 87 - <ul> - <li><a href="#potatoesalabarigoule130">à la Barigoule</a>, 130</li> - <li><a href="#potatoesalalyonnaise131">à la Lyonnaise</a>, 131</li> - <li><a href="#potatoesalamaitredhotel127">à la Maître d’Hôtel</a>, 127</li> - <li><a href="#potatoesalaprovencale131">à la Provençale</a>, 131</li> - <li><a href="#bakedpotatoes125">Baked</a>, 125</li> - <li><a href="#plainboiledpotatoes123">Boiled</a>, 123</li> - <li><a href="#broiledpotatoes131">Broiled</a>, 131</li> - <li><a href="#friedpotatoes126">Fried</a>, 126</li> - <li><a href="#mashedpotatoes125">Mashed</a>, 125</li> - <li><a href="#newpotatoes127">New</a>, 127</li> - <li><a href="#sauteepotatoes126">Sauté</a>, 126</li> - <li><a href="#steamedpotatoes124">Steamed</a>, 124</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#poundcake179">Pound Cake</a>, 179</li> - - <li><a href="#prunesauce057">Prune Sauce</a>, 57</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedprunes173">Prunes, Stewed</a>, 173</li> - - <li><a href="#cheesepudding114">Pudding, Cheese</a>, 114 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchbeanspudding140">French Bean</a>, 140</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompudding111">Mushroom</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#peaspudding134">Peas</a>, 134</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinpudding113">Pumpkin</a>, 113</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#puddings182">Puddings</a>, 182</li> - - <li><a href="#pumpkinalaparmesane115">Pumpkin à la Parmesane</a>, 115 - <ul> - <li><a href="#pumpkinpie113">Pie</a>, 113</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinpudding113">Pudding</a>, 113</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinsoup039">Soup</a>, 39</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#endivesoup031">Purée, Endive</a>, 31 - <ul> - <li><a href="#lentilalasoubise034">Lentils</a>, 34</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompureesauce055">Mushroom</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">of Beans, Red</a>, 26,</li> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">of Beans, White</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#chestnutsoup030">of Chestnuts</a>, 30</li> - <li><a href="#sorrelsauce058">Sorrel</a>, 58</li> - </ul> - </li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#welshrarebit115">Rarebit, Welsh</a>, 115</li> - - <li><a href="#icesfromfreshfruit176">Raspberry Ice</a>, 176 - <ul> - <li><a href="#raspberryjam164">Jam</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#raspberryjelly161">Jelly</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#raspberrysauce057">Sauce</a>, 57</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cheeseramequins114">Ramequins, Cheese</a>, 114</li> - - <li><a href="#ratafiasauce057">Ratafia Sauce</a>, 57</li> - - <li><a href="#ravigottesauce057">Ravigotte Sauce</a>, 57</li> - - <li><a href="#redcurrantjam164">Red Currant Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjelly161">Jelly</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantsauce050">Sauce</a>, 50</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">Red Haricot Bean Soup</a>, 26</li> - - <li><a href="#rhubarbsoup039">Rhubarb Soup</a>, 39 - <ul> - <li><a href="#stewedrhubarb173">Stewed</a>, 173</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#rice060">Rice</a>, 60 - <ul> - <li><a href="#riceandbarleyporridge075">and Barley Porridge</a>, - 75</li> - <li><a href="#riceandcabbage063">and Cabbage</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#riceandcheese063">and Cheese</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#riceandeggs066">and Eggs</a>, 66</li> - <li><a href="#riceandgingerfritters121">and Ginger Fritters</a>, - 121</li> - <li><a href="#riceandtomatoes066">and Tomatoes</a>, 66</li> - <li><a href="#boiledrice061">Boiled</a>, 61</li> - <li><a href="#riceborder064">Border</a>, 64</li> - <li><a href="#ricecroquettes065">Croquettes</a>, 65</li> - <li><a href="#curriedrice063">Curried</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#ricefritters121">Fritters</a>, 121</li> - <li><a href="#ricesoup039">Soup</a>, 39</li> - <li><a href="#ricesoupalaroyale039">Soup à la Royale</a>, - 39</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#risotto062">Risotto</a>, 62</li> - - <li><a href="#robertsauce058">Robert Sauce</a>, 58</li> - - <li><a href="#roux022">Roux, Brown</a>, 22 - <ul> - <li><a href="#roux022">White</a>, 22</li> - </ul> - </li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#sageandonionfritters118">Sage and Onion Fritters</a>, 118</li> - - <li><a href="#sagoporridge077">Sago Porridge</a>, 77 - <ul> - <li><a href="#sagosoup040">Soup</a>, 40</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#artichokesalad102">Salad, Artichoke</a>, 102 - <ul> - <li><a href="#asparagussalad101">Asparagus</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#broadbeansalad103">Bean, Broad</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#haricotbeansalad103">Bean, Haricot</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#beetrootsalad102">Beetroot</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersalad104">Cauliflower</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#celerysalad103">Celery</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#cucumbersalad102">Cucumber</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#dandelionsalad103">Dandelion</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#eggsalad099">Egg</a>, 99</li> - <li><a href="#endivesalad100">Endive</a>, 100</li> - <li><a href="#englishsalad097">English</a>, 97</li> - <li><a href="#frenchsalad097">French</a>, 97</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansalad102">French Beans</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#germansalad100">German</a>, 100</li> - <li><a href="#hopsalad104">Hop</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#italiansalad104">Italian</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#mayonnaisesalad098">Mayonnaise</a>, 98</li> - <li><a href="#melonsalad105">Melon</a>, 105</li> - <li><a href="#mixedsalad098">Mixed</a>, 98</li> - <li><a href="#mustardandcresssalad104">Mustard and Cress</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#onionsalad104">Onion</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#potatosalad101">Potato</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#salsifysalad101">Salsify</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#sweetsalad105">Sweet</a>, 105</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosalad099">Tomato</a>, 99</li> - <li><a href="#watercresssalad103">Water-cress</a>, 103</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#salads096">Salads</a>, 96</li> - - <li><a href="#boiledsalsify151">Salsify, Boiled</a>, 151 - <ul> - <li><a href="#salsifysalad101">Salad</a>, 101</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sandwiches105">Sandwiches</a>, 105 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cheesesandwiches107">Cheese</a>, 107</li> - <li><a href="#creamcheesesandwiches107">Cream Cheese</a>, 107</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandwiches106">Egg</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#indiansandwiches106">Indian</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsandwiches106">Mushroom</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#mustardandcresssandwiches106">Mustard and Cress</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosandwiches105">Tomato</a>, 105</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#allemandesauce044">Sauce, Allemande</a>, 44 - <ul> - <li><a href="#almondsauce044">Almond</a>, 44</li> - <li><a href="#almondsauceclear045">Almond, Clear</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#applesauce045">Apple</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#arrowrootsauce045">Arrowroot</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesauce045">Artichoke</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussauce045">Asparagus</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#breadsauce045">Bread</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#buttersauce046">Butter</a>, 46</li> - <li><a href="#blackbutter048">Butter, Black</a>, 48</li> - <li><a href="#oiledbutter048">Butter, Oiled</a>, 48</li> - <li><a href="#capersauce049">Caper</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#carrotsauce049">Carrot</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersauce049">Cauliflower</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#celerysauce049">Celery</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cherrysauce049">Cherry</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#chestnutsauce049">Chestnut</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cinnamonsauce049">Cinnamon</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cocoanutsauce049">Cocoa-nut</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cucumbersauce049">Cucumber</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantsauce050">Currant, Black</a>, 50</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantsauce050">Currant, Red</a>, 50</li> - <li><a href="#currysauce050">Curry</a>, 50</li> - <li><a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch</a>, 51 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greendutchsauce051">Green</a>, 51</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#eggsauce051">Egg</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#fennelsauce051">Fennel</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#germansweetsauce051">German Sweet</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#gingersauce052">Ginger</a>, 52</li> - <li><a href="#gooseberrysauce052">Gooseberry</a>, 52</li> - <li><a href="#horseradishsauce052">Horseradish</a>, 52</li> - <li><a href="#indianpicklesauce053">Indian Pickle</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#italiansauce053">Italian</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#maitredhotelsauce053">Maître - d’Hôtel</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#mangochutneysauce053">Mango Chutney</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#mayonnaisesauce053">Mayonnaise</a>, 53 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greenmayonnaisesauce054">Green</a>, 54</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#mintsauce054">Mint</a>, 54</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsauce054">Mushroom</a>, 54 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownmushroomsauce055">Brown</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompureesauce055">Purée</a>, 55</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#mustardsauce055">Mustard</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#onionsauce055">Onion</a>, 55 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsauce055">Brown</a>, 55</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#orangecreamsauce056">Orange Cream</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#parsleysauce056">Parsley</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplesauce056">Pine Apple</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#plumsauce056">Plum</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#poivradesauce057">Poivrade</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#prunesauce057">Prune</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#radishsauce057">Radish</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#raspberrysauce057">Raspberry</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#ratafiasauce057">Ratafia</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#ravigottesauce057">Ravigotte</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#robertsauce058">Robert</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#sorrelsauce058">Sorrel</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#soubisesauce058">Soubise</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#sweetsauce058">Sweet</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#tarragonsauce058">Tarragon</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#tartarsauce058">Tartar</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosauce059">Tomato</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#trufflesauce059">Truffle</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#vanillasauce059">Vanilla</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#whitesauce059">White</a>, 59</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sauces044">Sauces</a>, 44</li> - - <li><a href="#savouryrice066">Savoury Rice</a>, 66</li> - - <li><a href="#scotchbroth040">Scotch Broth</a>, 40 - <ul> - <li><a href="#scotchkale148">Kale</a>, 148</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#seakale148">Sea Kale</a>, 148 - <ul> - <li><a href="#seakalesoup040">Soup</a>, 40</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sorrelsauce058">Sorrel Sauce</a>, 58 - <ul> - <li><a href="#sorrelsoup040">Soup</a>, 40</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#soubisesauce058">Soubise Sauce</a>, 58</li> - - <li><a href="#cheesesouffle092">Soufflé, Cheese</a>, 92 - <ul> - <li><a href="#omeletsouffle093">Omelet</a>, 93</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#almondsoup023">Soup, Almond</a>, 23 - <ul> - <li><a href="#applesoup024">Apple</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesoup024">Artichoke</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussoup024">Asparagus</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#barleysoup025">Barley</a>, 25</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansoup027">Bean, French</a>, 27 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greenbeansoup027">Green</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">Haricot, Red</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">Haricot, White</a> 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#beetrootsoup026">Beetroot</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#cabbagesoup027">Cabbage</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#carrotsoup027">Carrot</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersoup028">Cauliflower</a>, 28</li> - <li><a href="#celerysoup029">Celery</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#cheesesoup029">Cheese</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#cherrysoup029">Cherry</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#chestnutsoup030">Chestnut</a>, 30</li> - <li><a href="#clearsoup030">Clear</a>, 30</li> - <li><a href="#cocoanutsoup031">Cocoanut</a>, 31</li> - <li><a href="#cottagesoup030">Cottage</a>, 30</li> - <li><a href="#endivesoup031">Endive</a>, 31</li> - <li><a href="#fruitsoup031">Fruit</a>, 31</li> - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">Green Pea, Dried</a>, 37 - <ul> - <li><a href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">Fresh</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#haresoup032">Hare</a>, 32</li> - <li><a href="#hotchpotch032">Hotch Potch</a>, 32</li> - <li><a href="#jardinieresoup033">Jardinière</a>, 33</li> - <li><a href="#juliennesoup033">Julienne</a>, 33</li> - <li><a href="#leeksoup033">Leek</a>, 33</li> - <li><a href="#lentilsoup033">Lentil</a>, 33</li> - <li><a href="#lentilalasoubise034">Lentil à la Soubise</a>, - 34</li> - <li><a href="#clearmacaronisoup034">Macaroni, Clear</a>, 34 - <ul> - <li><a href="#thickmacaronisoup034">Thick</a>, 34</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#milksoup035">Milk</a>, 35</li> - <li><a href="#mockturtlesoup035">Mock Turtle</a>, 35</li> - <li><a href="#mulligatawnysoup035">Mulligatawny</a>, 35</li> - <li><a href="#onionsoup035">Onion</a>, 35 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsoup036">Brown</a>, 36</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#oxtailsoup036">Ox-tail</a>, 36</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesoup024">Palestine</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#parsnipsoup036">Parsnip</a>, 36</li> - <li><a href="#pearsoup037">Pear</a>, 37</li> - <li><a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">Pea, Split</a>, 37 - <ul> - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">Green, Dried</a>, 37</li> - <li><a href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">Fresh</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#potatosoup038">Potato</a>, 38</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinsoup039">Pumpkin</a>, 39</li> - <li><a href="#rhubarbsoup039">Rhubarb</a>, 39</li> - <li><a href="#ricesoup039">Rice</a>, 39 - <ul> - <li><a href="#ricesoupalaroyale039">à la Royale</a>, 39</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#sagosoup040">Sago</a>, 40</li> - <li><a href="#scotchbroth040">Scotch Broth</a>, 40</li> - <li><a href="#seakalesoup040">Sea Kale</a>, 40</li> - <li><a href="#sorrelsoup040">Sorrel</a>, 40</li> - <li><a href="#spinachsoup041">Spinach</a>, 41</li> - <li><a href="#tapiocasoup041">Tapioca</a>, 41</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosoup041">Tomato</a>, 41</li> - <li><a href="#turnipsoup042">Turnip</a>, 42</li> - <li><a href="#jardinieresoup033">Vegetable</a>, 33 - <ul> - <li><a href="#vegetablemarrowsoup042">Marrow</a>, 42</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#vermicellisoup042">Vermicelli</a>, 42 - <ul> - <li><a href="#whitevermicellisoup042">White</a>, 42</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#whitesoup043">White</a>, 43</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#soups023">Soups</a>, 23 - <ul> - <li><a href="#soupgeneral017">General Instructions</a>, 17</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sparghetti067">Sparghetti</a>, 67</li> - - <li><a href="#spinach149">Spinach</a>, 149 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsandspinach085">and Eggs</a>, 85</li> - <li><a href="#spinachextract025">Extract of</a>, 25</li> - <li><a href="#spinachfritters118">Fritters</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#spinachsoup041">Soup</a>, 41</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedspinach154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#stock021">Stock</a>, 21</li> - - <li><a href="#strawberrycream167">Strawberry Cream</a>, 167 - <ul> - <li><a href="#icesfromfreshfruit176">Ice</a>, 176</li> - <li><a href="#strawberryjam164">Jam</a>, 164</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sweetfritters118">Sweet Fritters</a>, 118 - <ul> - <li><a href="#sweetomelet094">Omelet</a>, 94</li> - <li><a href="#sweetsalad105">Salads</a>, 105</li> - <li><a href="#sweetsauce058">Sauce</a>, 58 - <ul> - <li><a href="#germansweetsauce051">German</a>, 51</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - -</ul> - - <ul> - - <li><a href="#tagliatelli073">Tagliatelli</a>, 73</li> - - <li><a href="#tapiocasoup041">Tapioca Soup</a>, 41</li> - - <li><a href="#tarragonsauce058">Tarragon Sauce</a>, 58</li> - - <li><a href="#tartarsauce058">Tartar Sauce</a>, 58</li> - - <li><a href="#roux022">Thickening, Brown</a>, 22 - <ul> - <li><a href="#roux022">White</a>, 22</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#timbaleofmacaroni070">Timbale of Macaroni</a>, 70</li> - - <li><a href="#eggtoast085">Toast, Egg</a>, 85 - <ul> - <li><a href="#milktoast077">Milk</a>, 77</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#tomatofritters117">Tomato Fritters</a>, 117 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tomatopie112">Pie</a>, 112</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosalad099">Salad</a>, 99</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosandwiches105">Sandwiches</a>, 105</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosauce059">Sauce</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosoup041">Soup</a>, 41</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#macaroniandtomatoes072">Tomatoes and Macaroni</a>, 72 - <ul> - <li><a href="#riceandtomatoes066">and Rice</a>, 66</li> - <li><a href="#tomatoesaugratin111">au Gratin</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#bakedtomatoes111">Baked</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#friedtomatoes111">Fried</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#grilledtomatoes111">Grilled</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#stewedtomatoes111">Stewed</a>, 111</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#trufflesauce059">Truffle Sauce</a>, 59</li> - - <li><a href="#turnipsoup042">Turnip Soup</a>, 42 - <ul> - <li><a href="#turniptops151">-tops</a>, 151 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsandturniptops085">and Eggs</a>, 85</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#boiledturnips150">Turnips, Boiled</a>, 150 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mashedturnips150">Mashed</a>, 150</li> - <li><a href="#ornamentalturnips150">Ornamental</a>, 150</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedturnips155">Tinned</a>, 155</li> - </ul> - </li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#vanillacream166">Vanilla Cream</a>, 166 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#cheapicecream176">Ice</a>, 176</li> - <li><a href="#vanillasauce059">Sauce</a>, 59</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#curriedvegetables151">Vegetable Curry</a>, 151 - <ul> - <li><a href="#vegetablemarrow149">Marrow</a>, 149 - <ul> - <li><a href="#vegetablemarrowsoup042">Soup</a>, 42</li> - <li><a href="#stuffedvegetablemarrow149">Stuffed</a>, 149</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#vegetableomelet095">Omelet</a>, 95</li> - <li><a href="#vegetablesoup042">Soup</a>, 42</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#chapter8">Vegetables, Fresh</a>, 137 - <ul> - <li><a href="#chapter9">Preserved</a>, 152</li> - <li><a href="#chapter7">Substantial</a>, 122</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#vermicellisoup042">Vermicelli Soup</a>, 42 - <ul> - <li><a href="#whitevermicellisoup042">Thick</a>, 42</li> - </ul> - </li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#watercresssalad103">Water-cress Salad</a>, 103</li> - - <li><a href="#welshporridge146">Welsh Porridge</a>, 146 - <ul> - <li><a href="#welshrarebit115">Rarebit</a>, 115</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#haricotbeansalad103">White Haricot Bean Salad</a>, 103 - <ul> - <li> - <ul> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">Soup</a>, 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#roux022">Roux</a>, 22</li> - <li><a href="#whitesauce059">Sauce</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#whitesoup043">Soup</a>, 43</li> - <li><a href="#roux022">Thickening</a>, 22</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#bread180">Whole-meal Bread</a>, 180 - <ul> - <li><a href="#wholemealporridge075">Porridge</a>, 75</li> - </ul> - </li> - -</ul> -<ul> - - <li><a href="#zuchettifarcis115">Zucchetti Farcis</a>, 115</li> -</ul> - - - -<p class="centre"> -PRINTED BY -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, -LONDON, E.C. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - Cheap Edition (11<em>th Thousand</em>). - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Cloth gilt, <strong>2s. 6d.</strong> - </p> - - <h2 class="bookad">What Girls Can Do. <span class="unbold">A Book for - Mothers and Daughters. By PHYLLIS BROWNE, Author of “A - Year’s Cookery.”</span></h2> - - <p> - “Girls who are forced to earn their livelihood, are ambitious of - making themselves useful, or only desire not to be idle, may all - consult with advantage these pages, which have the great merit of being - within the compass of all to profit - by.”—<cite>Times</cite>. - </p> - -<p class="centre"> -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London.</em> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Seventh and Cheap Edition.</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Price <strong>1s. 6d.</strong>; cloth, <strong>2s.</strong> - </p> - - <h2 class="bookad">A Handbook of Nursing for the Home and for the - Hospital. <span class="unbold">By CATHERINE J. WOOD, Lady - Superintendent of the Hospital for Sick Children, Great Ormond - Street.</span></h2> - - <p> - “A book which every mother of a family ought to have, as well as - every nurse under training.”—<cite>Guardian</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Ninth Edition</em>, extra fcap. 8vo, cloth, <strong>6s.</strong> - </p> - - <h2 class="bookad">The Ladies’ Physician. <span class="unbold">A - Guide for Women to the Treatment of their Ailments. By a London - Physician.</span></h2> - - <p> - “The statements are accurate, the opinions sound, and the advice - judicious.”—<cite>Medical Times</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London.</em> - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Cheap Edition</em>. Price 6d. - </p> - - <h2 class="bookad">How Women may Earn a Living. <span class="unbold">By - MERCY GROGAN.</span></h2> - - <p> - “In a lucid and concise manner are embodied a large number of - suggestions in which ladies who have to depend upon their own exertions - for their support could be helped.”—<cite>Daily - Telegraph</cite>. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - 52<em>nd Thousand</em>. Stiff covers, 1s.; - cloth, 1s. 6d. - </p> - - <h2>Etiquette of Good Society.</h2> - - <p> - “A book which may fairly be considered a recognised authority. It - covers the whole of our lives in all their varying phases, and is as - pleasantly written an it is instructive.”—<cite>The - Queen</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London.</em> - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <h2>HEALTH HANDBOOKS.</h2> - - <hr /> - - <h3 class="bookad">Health at School. <span class="unbold">By CLEMENT DUKES, - M.D., B.S., Physician to Rugby School and to - Rugby Hospital. 7s. 6d.</span></h3> - - <p> - “A most excellent little - volume.”—<cite>Athenæum</cite>. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <h3 class="bookad">The Influence of Clothing on - Health. <span class="unbold">By FREDERICK TREVES, F.R.C.S, - Surgeon to, and Lecturer on Anatomy at, the - London Hospital. 2s.</span></h3> - - <p> - “An admirable treatise, the subject being dealt with in a very - thorough and interesting manner.”—<cite>The Hospital</cite>. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <h3 class="bookad">The Eye, Ear, and Throat (The - Management of). <span class="unbold">3s. 6d.</span></h3> - - <p> - <strong>The Eye and Sight.</strong> By HENRY POWER, - M.B., F.R.C.S. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>The Ear and Hearing.</strong> By GEORGE P. FIELD. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>The Throat, Voice, and Speech.</strong> By JOHN - S. BRISTOWE, M.D., F.R.S. - </p> - - <p> - “Altogether this work is superior to any popular publication of - its kind which has hitherto appeared.”—<cite>Athenæum</cite>. - </p> - - <hr /> - -<p class="centre"> -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>New and Revised Edition</em>, price <strong>21s.;</strong> roxburgh, <strong>25s</strong> - </p> - - <h2>The Family Physician.</h2> - - -<h3>A Manual of Domestic Medicine by Physicians and -Surgeons of the principal London Hospitals.</h3> - -<p> -The range of subjects dealt with is wonderfully comprehensive, and -<strong>the book will be worth ten times its cost</strong> by helping many -a one to ward off some of the ‘ills that flesh is heir to.’ It -is of inestimable value. Many years’ experience of its far-reaching -usefulness and trustworthiness enables us to commend the work with the -utmost confidence. It is based on the best of medical principles in showing -how to avoid and prevent illness, but goes much further than this, by -providing judicious advice for all cases of -emergency.”—<cite>Daily Chronicle</cite>. -</p> - -<p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>AUTHORITATIVE WORK ON HEALTH BY EMINENT PHYSICIANS AND - SURGEONS.</strong> - </p> - - <h2>The Book of Health.</h2> - - <p> - <strong>A Systematic Treatise for the Professional and - General Reader upon the Science and the Preservation - of Health 21s.</strong> - </p> - - <p> - <em>Roxburgh</em> <strong>25s.</strong> - </p> - - <p> - “THE BOOK OF HEALTH,” says the <cite>Lancet</cite>, “is what it aims to be—authoritative, - and must become <strong>a standard work of reference</strong> not only with - those who are responsible for the health of schools, workshops, and other establishments - where there is a large concourse of individuals, but to <strong>every member of - the community</strong> who is anxious to secure the highest possible degree of healthy - living for himself and for his family”. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="bookad"> - <em>CASSELL & COMPANY’S COMPLETE CATALOGUE, containing - Particulars of</em> UPWARDS OF ONE THOUSAND VOLUMES, <em>including - Bibles and Religious Works, Illustrated and Fine Art Volumes, - Children’s Books, Dictionaries, Educational Works, History, - Natural History, Household and Domestic Treatises, Science, Travels, - &c., together with a Synopsis of their numerous illustrated Serial - Publications, sent post free on application.</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <h2>REDUCED PRICE LIST<br /> - OF<br /> - BARBER & COMPANY’S</h2> - - <h3>NEW SEASON TEAS</h3> - - <p class="textright"> - Per lb. - </p> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - Packoo, Pure Leaf Congo 1s. 2d.<br /> - Siftings from Choicest Black Teas 1s. - 2d.<br /> - Rich Sirupy New Season’s Onfa - Congo 1s. 4d.<br /> - Rich Sirupy Moning Congo 1s. 10d.<br /> - Finest ditto 2s. 4d.<br /> - Best Black Tea grown 2s. 10d.<br /> - Finest and Purest Gunpowder 3s. 10d.<br /> - Orange Pekoe (finest imported) 2s. - 10d.<br/> - Young Hyson (pure and fine) 1s. 10d.<br /> - </p> - - <h3>COFFEE.</h3> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - French, as used in Paris (per lb. Tin) 1s. - 0d.<br /> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - This is the choicest and most carefully selected Coffee. Roasted on the - French Principle and mixed with the Finest Bruges Chicory. - </p> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - Fine Costa Rica (mixed with the Finest Bruges - Chicory) 1s. 5d.<br /> - - Finest Plantation (ditto) 1s. 5d.<br /> - - Rich Mysore (ditto) 1s. 7d.<br /> - - Rare Old Mocha (pure) 1s. 9d.<br /> - </p> - - <h3>COCOA.</h3> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - Finest Pure Trinidad (Ribbed or - Flaked) 1s. 4d.<br /> - Ditto, Prepared Soluble, 2s, 1s. 6d., and - 1s. per lb. - </p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="bookad"> -No Outrageous Names or Prices but <strong>CEYLON TEA</strong> (pure and -simple), 1s. 6d. per lb. (own packing). 2½ lb. Sample by post for -4s. 3d.; 4½ lbs. 7s. 6d.; 6 <span class="note">[Transcriber’s -note: Illegible.]</span> lbs. 10s. 9d -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p> -N.B.—No Charge for Carriage of Parcels of TEA <span -class="note">[Transcriber’s note: Illegible.]</span> and over in -England. <em>Cheques</em> <span class="note">[Transcriber’s note: -Illegible.]</span> -</p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>BARBER AND COMPANY</strong></p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>(Established in the last Century)</em></p> - - <p class="centre"> - 274, REGENT CIRCUS, OXFORD STREET, W. - </p> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - 61, Bishopsgate Street, London E.C.<br /> - 102, Westbourne Grove, W.<br /> - 67, Brixton Road, S.W.<br /> - The Borough, London Bridge, S.E.<br /> - King’s Cross, N.<br /> - 42, Great Titchfield Street, W.<br /> - Manchester—93, Market Street.<br /> - Birmingham—Quadrant.<br /> - Liverpool—4, Church Street, Winston Buildings, and 62 London - Road.<br /> - Preston—104, Fishergate.<br /> - Bristol—33, Corn Street.<br /> - Brighton—148, North Street.<br /> - Hastings—Robertson Street, and Havelock Road. - </p> - -</div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. 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G. Payne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery - A Manual Of Cheap And Wholesome Diet - -Author: A. G. Payne - -Release Date: January 4, 2005 [EBook #14594] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY *** - - - - -Produced by Feòrag NicBhrìde and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - -BY A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - - * * * * * - -SUGG'S GOLD MEDAL "WESTMINSTER" -GAS KITCHENERS. - -ENAMELLED INSIDE AND UNDER HOT-PLATE. - -[Illustration] - -_PERFECT FOR ROASTING, BAKING, GRILLING, TOASTING, AND BOILING._ - -_WILL DO ALL THAT ANY STOVE OF THE SAME SIZE CAN DO--ONLY MUCH BETTER._ - -The only Gas Kitchener which Bakes Bread perfectly. Send for Pamphlet on -SUGG'S NEW METHOD OF BAKING BREAD. - -LET ON HIRE By the Gas Light and Coke Co., the South Metropolitan Gas Co., -Brentford, Tottenham, and many other Gas Companies. - -WILLIAM SUGG & CO., Ltd., REGENCY ST., WESTMINSTER. - - * * * * * - -Complete in Four Vols., price 5s. each. - -CASSELL'S - -Book of the Household. - -A Valuable and Practical Work on Every Department of Household Management. -_With Numerous Illustrations_. - -The _Guardian_ says: "AN EXCELLENT WORK, WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HANDS OF -EVERY HOUSEKEEPER, is CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD. Here we find the -most varied information and the soundest of advice. The household, its -members and their family life, are considered and discussed; children and -their training, health and disease, food and clothing, furnishing, -furniture, and household mechanics. The arrangement and treatment of these -various subjects are admirable, and the book is certainly a most valuable -and practical manual of household management." - -The _Queen_ says: "A BOOK SO HANDY AND PRACTICAL OUGHT TO BE ADOPTED BY -EVERY WELL-ORDERED FAMILY. Its plan is so comprehensive, it will include -every part of the house and its requirements, and all the members of the -family and their mutual relations, duties, and responsibilities." - -The _Weekly Dispatch_ says: "We do not know of any more practical or more -valuable work on household management. It is worth its weight in gold." - -The _Scotsman_ says: "The first volume has appeared of a book which -promises to be of great and extensive utility. It is A CYCLOPAEDIA OF -INFORMATION ON ALL QUESTIONS CONNECTED WITH THE MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD, -and does not enter into comparison with books that treat merely of -provisions for the table. Various hands have evidently been employed in -working up the various sections, and every subject is dealt with in a -thoroughly competent style. The book is admirably appointed in every -respect, and contains many illustrations, all of the most useful character, -and beautifully printed. EVERY ONE WHO HAS TO DO IN ANY WAY WITH THE -MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD WILL FIND THIS BOOK INVALUABLE." - -The _Liverpool Mercury_ says: "CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD is another -book, of a class of which many have been issued, and good books too; but -this one, by the thoroughness and comprehensiveness of its arrangement, -will go far to render the housewife who possesses it independent of all the -rest.... Many a housewife will find the articles interesting enough to be -taken up at any leisure hour." - -The _Glasgow Herald_ says: "The work promises to be the most complete thing -of the kind in existence, and even the first volume by itself is a perfect -household encyclopaedia." - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -SAVES TIME, TROUBLE, AND EXPENSE. - -ASK YOUR GROCER FOR GRIDLEY & CO'S ISINGLASSINE. - -"PURE, NUTRITIOUS AND WHOLESOME." - -_Arthur Hill Hassall_ -_E. Godwin Clayton_ - -A SIXPENNY PACKET WILL MAKE 1 QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY. - -NO BOILING OR SOAKING REQUIRED. TO BE HAD OF ALL GROCERS - -_THREE GOLD MEDALS AWARDED._ - -HIGHEST TESTIMONIALS. - - * * * * * - -The London Vegetarian Society, - -THE MEMORIAL HALL, FARRINGDON STREET, E.C. - -President--A.F. HILLS, Esq. -Treasurer--ERNEST BELL, Esq., M.A. -Secretary--MAY YATES. - -THE LONDON VEGETARIAN SOCIETY is established for the purpose of advocating -the total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, -and promoting instead a more extensive use of fruits, grains, nuts, and -other products of the vegetable kingdom; and also to disseminate -information as to the meaning and principles of Vegetarianism by lectures, -pamphlets, letters to the Press, &c.; and by these means, and through the -example and efforts of its Members, to extend the adoption of a principle -tending essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to -the increase of human happiness generally. - -Members adopt in its entirety the Vegetarian system of diet. Associates -agree to promote the aims of the Society, but do not pledge themselves to -its practice. - -SUBSCRIBERS ARE ENTITLED TO THE FOLLOWING ADVANTAGES: - -ONE SHILLING PER ANNUM.--Minimum Subscription. - -FIVE SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four -Debates, and Four Conversaziones at half-price, and be entitled to receive, -free by post, copies of all new literature published by the Society under -6d. - -TEN SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four -Debates, and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, copies of -all new literature published by the Society under 1s. - -ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four Debates -and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, all new literature -published by the Society under 2s., and copies of the _Vegetarian_, _The -Hygienic Review_, and the _Vegetarian Messenger_. - - * * * * * - -POOR MAN'S FRIEND AND PILLS. - -DR. ROBERTS' OINTMENT CALLED POOR MAN'S FRIEND Will Cure WOUNDS and SORES -of every description - -DR. ROBERTS' ALTERATIVE PILLS For DISEASES of the BLOOD and SKIN. - -_Of all Chemists, or of the Proprietors_, BRIDPORT, DORSET. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -THE "RAPID" COOKERY STEAMER. - -TO FIT ANY SAUCEPAN. - -_From 1s. each._ - -OF ALL IRONMONGERS. - - * * * * * - -_NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION._ - -A YEAR'S COOKERY. - -Giving Dishes for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Dinner for every Day in the -Year, By PHYLLIS BROWNE. Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. - -To the New Edition of this popular book (which has already attained a sale -of upwards of Twenty Thousand Copies) additional pages have been added on -Food for Invalids. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_Price_ 2s. 6d. - -A HANDBOOK FOR THE NURSING OF SICK CHILDREN. By CATHERINE J. WOOD. - -"Miss Wood's book is succinct, clearly written, and goes straight to the -heart of each detail in a thoroughly business-like fashion."--_Health_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_THE LARGEST, CHEAPEST, AND BEST COOKERY BOOK._ - -1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, 7s. 6d.; roxburgh, 10s. 6d. - -CASSELL'S -Dictionary of Cookery. - -ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT. - -CONTAINING ABOUT 9,000 RECIPES. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is one of the most thorough and -comprehensive works of the kind. To expatiate on its abundant contents -would demand pages rather than paragraphs."--_The Times_. - -"One of the most handsome, practical, and comprehensive books of -cookery."--_Saturday Review_. - -"It seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to be--that is, -the largest and most complete collection of the kind ever produced in this -country; an encyclopaedia, in fact, of the culinary art in all its -branches. It is a dictionary which should be in every household, and -studied by every woman who recognises her true mission in the -world."--_Christian World_. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is not only full of solid and valuable -information as to the best method of preparing food in an endless variety -of forms, but it will enable a housekeeper to grasp principles on which -food may be cooked to the greatest perfection. It supplies the reason why -one method is right and another wrong. An estimate of the cost of each -recipe is given, which is valuable information. The recipes themselves are -given in terms intelligible to the meanest capacity."--_Athenaeum_. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY contains about 9,000 recipes, and is -preceded by a treatise on the Principles of Culinary Art and Table -Management, which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks, as -those most interested in such instructions, but by every mistress of a -household, large or small.... The woodcuts dispersed through the pages not -only illustrate some of the various species of fish, game, fruit, -vegetables, and herbs to which the recipes refer, but serve to make the -directions for carving more intelligible, while the coloured plates -represent appetising dishes elaborately garnished, or fruit tastefully -arranged, with several less inviting pictures of 'bad and good joints of -meat' contrasted with each other side by side."--_Morning Post_. - -"The best Cookery book extant. We know of no equal, either in the -arrangement of its contents, the number of its recipes, or the elegance of -its illustrations."--_York Herald_. - -"Being complete, it tells us how to dress a table for the smallest dinner, -but what I value more in it is that it reminds us of the simplest and -cheapest of dishes, and gives their cost. There are more shilling or -sixpenny preparations in this book than those of greater cost."--_Western -Morning News_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -CASSELL'S -VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - - * * * * * - -CROSSE & BLACKWELL'S PICKLES, SAUCES, FLAVOURING ESSENCES, - -_PARISIAN ESSENCE FOR GRAVIES_, - -Grated Parmesan Cheese in Bottles, - -PURE LUCCA OIL, - -Malt Vinegar and Table Delicacies, - -_ARE SOLD BY ALL GROCERS_. - -CROSSE & BLACKWELL, - -Purveyors to the Queen, - -SOHO SQUARE, LONDON. - - * * * * * - - -CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - -A MANUAL OF _CHEAP AND WHOLESOME DIET_. - -BY - -A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - -AUTHOR OF "CHOICE DISHES," ETC. - -[Illustration] - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED: - -_LONDON, PARIS & MELBOURNE_. - -1891. - - * * * * * - -For Puddings, Blanc-Mange, Custards, CHILDREN'S AND INVALIDS' DIET, _And -all the Uses of Arrowroot_, - -BROWN & POLSON'S CORN FLOUR - -HAS A WORLD-WIDE REPUTATION, AND IS DISTINGUISHED FOR _UNIFORMLY SUPERIOR -QUALITY_. - -NOTE.--Purchasers should insist on being supplied with BROWN & POLSON'S -CORN FLOUR. Inferior qualities, asserting fictitious claims, are being -offered. - - * * * * * - -80th THOUSAND, _price_ 1s.; _post free_, 1s. 3d. - -CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY. - -This new and valuable Work contains 364 pages, crown 8vo, bound in limp -cloth. - -"This is the LARGEST AND MOST COMPREHENSIVE WORK on the subject of cookery -ever yet published at the price."--_Christian Age_. - -"Housekeepers WILL SAVE MANY SHILLINGS if they follow the practical -suggestions and excellent advice given."--_Bazaar_. - -"CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY is certainly the cheapest manual for the -kitchen we have ever received. There are 360 pages of recipes, the book is -serviceably bound, and should prove a treasure to any young wife."--_Weekly -Times and Echo_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The present work, though written upon strictly vegetarian principles, is by -no means addressed to vegetarians only. On the contrary, we hope that the -following pages of recipes will be read by that enormous class throughout -the country who during the last few years have been gradually changing -their mode of living by eating far _less_ meat, and taking vegetables and -farinaceous food as a substitute. - -Where there are thousands who are vegetarians from choice, there are tens -of thousands who are virtually vegetarians from necessity. Again, there is -another large class who from time to time adopt a vegetarian course of diet -on the ground of health, and as a means of escaping from the pains -attendant on gout, liver complaint, or dyspepsia. - -The class we most wish to reach, however, is that one, increasing we fear, -whose whole life is one continual struggle not merely to live, but to live -decently. - -It may seem a strong statement, but we believe it to be a true one, that -only those who have tried a strictly vegetarian course of diet know what -real _economy_ means. Should the present work be the means of enabling -even one family to become not only better in health but richer in pocket, -it will not have been written in vain. - -A.G. PAYNE. - - * * * * * - -SOLIDIFIED JELLY. - -[Illustration] - -By Royal Letters Patent in Great Britain and Ireland, 1888 Patented in the -Dominion of Canada, 1889. Patented in France, 1889. N. S. Wales, 1889. -Victoria, 1889. Other Foreign Rights reserved. - -CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES, - -The Inventor and Patentee, in introducing this high-class article of food, -begs to warn the Public that the great success and enormous demand the -CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES have obtained in Great Britain has brought many -imitators on the Market. A few Stores and Grocers are offering same to the -Public, no doubt for the purpose of wishing to appear cheaper, or for -making extra profit. The favour for the CHELSEA TABLE JELLY has been -obtained solely upon the merits of the article, and it is held to be the -greatest invention of the kind, bringing within the reach of all classes -this hitherto almost unobtainable luxury. This has been fully endorsed by -the unsolicited testimony of high-class British journals. - -The article is put up in cardboard boxes, in quantities to make 1/2-pints, -pints, and quarts of jelly, and the following are some of the flavours: -Lemon, Orange, Vanilla, Calves' Feet, Noyeau, Raspberry, Punch, and -Madeira. It should not be confounded with the ordinary fruit Jelly, which -is a totally different article, _this being a pure Calves' Feet jelly_, -superseding the use of gelatine in packets for jelly purposes--this latter, -as will easily be seen, being now a thing of the past. On each box is -printed a public analyst's report, also full directions for use. - -_The following advantages are claimed over all other Calves Feet -jellies_:-- - -1. It is less than one-third of the price of bottled jellies, and superior -in quality. - -2. It never gets mildewed or corky. - -3. It never fails to set or jellify. - -4. Its extreme simpleness of preparation, only requiring to be melted by -the addition of hot water, no flavouring or other matter being required. - -5. It will keep good for any time until made up, when it will keep good -longer than other jellies. - -6. The largest quantity can be made in a few minutes. - -For persons suffering from dyspepsia or any other ailment, it will also be -found to be a great boon, as it can be cut and eaten in the solidified -state with great satisfaction. On sea voyages and excursions of any kind -it will be found invaluable. - -_BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS, and ask only for the_ WALTER ROBERTSON -CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. - -ARTICLES OF MERIT ARE OFTEN PIRATED BY UNPRINCIPLED TRADERS. - -To be had of all GROCERS, STORES, and CONFECTIONERS. - - -_CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS_. - -Sample of CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. Received 1888. - -_I certify that the following are the results of the analysis of the above -samples_: - -I have examined a sample of Chelsea Table jelly, and find it to be a -mixture of Calves' Feet jelly and sugar; it is undoubtedly nutritious and -wholesome. - -It is superior to other samples that I have analysed, as it in much firmer -and keeps well. - -It is clear and bright, and has evidently been carefully manufactured from -pure materials. - -It has a pleasant flavour, and is of excellent quality. - -_(Signed)_ R. H. HARLAND, F.I,C., F.C.S. - -Laboratory, Plough Court, 37, Lombard Street. _Public Analyst_. - - -Copy of Testimonial received August 26th, 1891 (_unsolicited_). - -59, Windsor Road, Southport. _August 25th_, 1891. - -GENTLEMEN,--I may inform you that I have tried other makers of jellies, but -have found none to equal yours in excellence of quality. I have mentioned -this fact frequently to Mr. Seymour Mead and to my friends. I am also -deeply indebted to you from the fact that a little niece of mine was fed -almost exclusively on your Calves' Feet Jelly for a period of three months, -and who, when she refused to take other things, always took most willingly -to your jellies. - -Yours respectfully, - -W, ROBERTSON & Co. M. T. HANSON. - -_This and others may be inspected at the Works, Chelsea, London._ - - -INVENTORS AND SOLE MANUFACTURERS (WHOLESALE ONLY): - -WALTER ROBERTSON & CO., CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W., ENGLAND - - * * * * * - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -PAGE. - -CHAP. I.--Soups 17 - - II.--SAUCES 44 - III.--RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL 60 - IV.--EGGS AND OMELETS 78 - V.--SALADS AND SANDWICHES 96 - VI.--SAVOURY DISHES 108 - VII.--VEGETABLES, SUBSTANTIAL 122 - VIII.--VEGETABLES, FRESH 137 - IX.--PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS 152 - X.--JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS 158 - XI.--CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESECAKES 165 - XII.--STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES 171 - XIII.--CAKES AND BREAD 177 - XIV.--PIES AND PUDDINGS 182 - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S -PRIZE MEDAL. - -Flavouring Essences and Domestic Specialities - -FOR PIES, PUDDINGS, SOUPS, GRAVIES, ICES, &c. - -_Prepared direct from Herbs, Fruits, and Spices, gathered in their bloom -and freshness._ - -Specially awarded Prize Medals, Great International Exhibition, -London, 1851 and 1862. - -(Recommended for all the Recipes in this work.) - -_"E.F. LANGDALE'S" should always be insisted upon. -They are Purest, Best, and Cheapest._ - - -Essence Lemon. -Strong Essence Vanilla. -Purified Essence Almonds -Essence Noyau. - " Raspberries. -Essence Ginger. - " Orange. - " Ratafia. - " Celery. - " Strawberries. - - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S - -Fruit Pudding, Blancmange, and. Custard Powders - -MAKE DELICIOUS PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, & BLANCMANGE. - -_In 2d. and 6d. Packets. Sold everywhere._ - - -ALMOND. -LEMON. -VANILLA. -RASPBERRY. -PINE APPLE. -RATAFIA. -STRAWBERRY. -NECTARINE. -CHOCOLATE, &c. - - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S -Prepared Dried English Herbs, &c. - - -Garden Mint. -Savoury. -Parsley. -Sage. -Lemon Thyme. -Basil. -Mixed Sweet Herbs. - " Soup " -Tarragon. - - -_Celery Seeds. Celery Salt. Herbaceous Mixture._ - -E.F. LANGDALE'S REFINED JAMAICA LIME JUICE AND PURE LEMON JUICE. - -Distilled Tarragon and Chill Vinegar for Salads and Sauces. - - * * * * * - -Sole Agent for - -J. Delcroix & Cie. Concentrated Parisian Essence, - -FOR BROWNING GRAVIES, &c. (_See pages 20, 22._) Which should always be -bought with their Name. As used by all _Chefs_. - -J. DELCROIX & CIE. Pure Green Vegetable Coloured Spinach Extract. _Perfectly -Harmless_. - -J. DELCROIX & CIE. Brilliant Extract Cochineal for Tinting Ices, Pies, &c. - - * * * * * - -E. F. LANGDALE'S "Essence Distillery," - -72 & 73, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C. Estab. 1770. - -Pamphlets, Recipes, &c., post free. All the above can be obtained of any -leading Grocer. We will send name of nearest Agent on receipt of post -card. - - * * * * * - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -We wish it to be distinctly understood at starting, that the present work -is purely a cookery-book, written on the principles generally adopted by -vegetarians; and as, until quite recently, there seemed to be in the minds -of many some doubt as to the definition of vegetarianism, we will quote the -following explanation from the head of the report of the London Vegetarian -Society:--"The aims of the London Vegetarian Society are to advocate the -total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, and -to promote a more extensive use of pulse, grains, fruits, nuts, and other -products of the vegetable kingdom, thus propagating a principle tending -essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to the -increase of happiness generally." - -We have no intention of writing a treatise on vegetarianism, but we -consider a few words of explanation necessary. Years back many persons -were under the impression that by vegetarianism was meant simply an -abstention from flesh-meat, but that fish was allowed. Such, however, is -not the case, according to the rules of most of the Vegetarian Societies of -the day. On the other hand, strictly speaking, real vegetarians would not -be allowed the use of eggs and milk; but it appears that many use these, -though there are a considerable number of persons who abstain. There is no -doubt that the vegetable kingdom, without either milk or eggs, contains -every requisite for the support of the human body. In speaking on this -subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes:--"The vegetable kingdom comprehends -the cereals, legumes, roots, starches, sugar, herbs, and fruits. Persons -who style themselves vegetarians often consume milk, eggs, butter, and -lard, which are choice foods from the animal kingdom. There are other -persons, of course, who are strictly vegetarian eaters, and such alone have -any right to the title of vegetarians." - -In the following pages will be found ample recipes for the benefit of -parties who take either view. In questions of this kind there will always -be found conflicting views. We have no wish or desire to give opinions, -but consider it will be more advisable, and probably render the book far -more useful, if we confine ourselves as much as possible to facts. - -The origin of vegetarianism is as old as the history of the world itself, -and probably from time immemorial there have been sects which have -practised vegetarianism, either as a religious duty, or under the belief -that they would render the body more capable of performing religious -duties. In the year 1098, or two years prior to the date of Henry I., -there was a strictly vegetarian society formed in connection with the -Christian Church, which lived entirely on herbs and roots, and the society -has lasted to the present day. Again, there have been many sects who, not -so strict, have allowed themselves the use of fish. - -Again, there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of diet on the ground -of health. Many maintain that diseases like gout and dyspepsia would -disappear were vegetarian diet strictly adhered to. On the other hand, we -have physicians who maintain that the great cause of indigestion is not -eating enough. An American physician, some years ago, alleged he had -discovered the cause, his argument being that the more work the stomach had -to do the stronger it would become, on the same principle that the arm of a -blacksmith is more powerful in consequence of hard work. Of one thing we -are certain, and that is, there will always be rival physicians and rival -sects; but the present work will simply be a guide to _those who require, -from whatever cause, a light form of diet_. Perhaps the greatest benefit -vegetarians can do their cause--and there are many who think very strongly -on the subject--is to endeavour to take a dispassionate view. Rome was not -built in a day; and if we look back at the past history of this country, -during the last half-century, in regard to food, we shall see that there -have been many natural changes at work. Waves of thought take place -backwards and forwards, but still the tide may flow. Some fifty years ago -there was, undoubtedly, a strong impression (with a large number of -right-minded people) that plenty of meat, beer, and wine were good for all, -even for young children. The medical profession are very apt to run in -flocks, and follow some well-known leader. At the period to which we -refer, numbers of anxious mothers would have regarded the advice to bring -up their children as vegetarians and teetotallers as positive cruelty. -This old-fashioned idea has passed away. - -One great motive for adopting a course of vegetarian diet is economy; and -here we feel that we stand on firm ground, without danger of offending -sincere opinions, which are often wrongly called prejudices. To a great -extent, the majority of the human race are virtually vegetarians from -necessity. Nor do we find feebleness either of mind or body necessarily -ensues. We believe there are tens of thousands of families who would give -vegetarianism a trial were it not for fear. Persons are too apt to think -that bodily strength depends upon the nature of the food we eat. In India -we have a feeble race, living chiefly on rice. On the other hand, in -China, for bodily strength, few can compare with the Coolies. For many -years in Scotland the majority lived on oatmeal, while in Ireland they -lived on potatoes. We do not wish to argue anything from these points, but -to bring them forward for consideration. Probably, strength of body and -mind, as a general rule, depends upon breed, and this argument tells two -ways--it does not follow that vegetarians will be necessarily strong, and -will cease to be cruel; nor does it follow that those who have been -accustomed all their lives to eat meat will cease to be strong should they -become vegetarians. As we have said, the great motive that induces many to -give vegetarianism a trial is economy; and if persons would once get rid of -the idea that they risk their health by making a trial, much would be done -to advance the cause. - -Another great reason for persons hesitating to make a trial is the -revolution it would create in their households. Here again we are beset by -difficulties, and these difficulties can only disappear gradually, after -long years of patience. We believe the progress towards vegetarianism must -of necessity be a very slow one. No large West End tradesman could -possibly insist upon his whole establishment becoming vegetarians because -he becomes one himself. We believe and hope that the present work will -benefit those who are undergoing a slow but gradual change in their mode of -living. This is easiest in small households, where no servants are kept at -all, where the mistress is both cook and mother. It is in such households -that the change is possible, and very often most desirable. In many cases -trial will be made gradually. The great difficulty to contend with is -prejudice, or, rather, we may say, habit. There are many housekeepers who -feel that their bill of fare would instantly become extremely limited were -they to adopt vegetarian ideas. There are few better dinners--especially -for children--than a good basin of soup, with plenty of bread; yet, as a -rule, there are few housekeepers who would know how to make vegetarian soup -at all. In our present work we have given a list of sixty-four soups. At -any rate, here is no lack of variety, as small housekeepers in this country -are not famed for their knowledge of soup making, even with gravy-beef at -their disposal. - -On looking down this list it will be observed that in many cases cream--or, -at any rate, milk--is recommended. We can well imagine the housekeeper -exclaiming, "I don't call this economy." This is one point about which we -consider a few words of explanation necessary. We will suppose a family of -eight, who have been accustomed to live in the ordinary way, are going to -have a vegetarian dinner by way of trial. Some soup has to be made, and -one or two vegetables from the garden or the greengrocer's, as the case may -be, are going to be cooked on a new method, and the housekeeper is -horrified at the amount of butter she finds recommended for the sauce. -People must, however, bear in mind that changes are gradual, and that -often, at first starting, a degree of richness, or what they would consider -extravagance, is advisable if they wish to _reconcile others_ to the -change. In our dinner for eight we would first ask them how much meat -would they have allowed a head? At the very lowest computation, it could -not have been decently done under a quarter of a pound each, even if the -dish of meat took the economical form of an Irish stew; and had a joint, -such as a leg of mutton, been placed upon the table, it would probably have -been considerably more than double. Supposing, however, instead of the -meat, we have three vegetables--say haricot beans, potatoes, and a cabbage. -With the assistance of some really good butter sauce, these vegetables, -eaten with bread, make an agreeable meal, which, especially in hot weather, -would probably be a pleasant change. Supposing, for the sake of argument, -you use half a pound of butter in making the butter sauce. This sounds, to -ordinary cooks, very extravagant, even supposing butter to be only one -shilling per pound. Suppose, however, this half a pound of butter is used -as a means of going without a leg of mutton? That is the chief point to be -borne in mind in a variety of recipes to follow. The cream, butter, and -eggs are often recommended in what will appear as wholesale quantities, -but, as a set-off against this, you have no butcher's bill at all. We do -not maintain that this apparently unlimited use of butter, eggs, and -occasionally cream, is necessary; but we believe that there are many -families who will be only able to make the change by substituting "_nice_" -dishes, at any rate at first starting, to make up for the loss of the meat. -It is only by substituting a pleasant kind of food, that many will be -induced even to attempt to change. Gradually the living will become -cheaper and cheaper; but it is unwise to attempt, in a family, to do too -much at once. - -There are many soups we have given in which cream is recommended; for -instance, artichoke soup, bean soup, cauliflower soup, and celery soup. -After partaking of a well-made basin of one of these soups, followed by one -or two vegetables and a fruit pie or stewed fruit, there are many persons -who would voluntarily remark, "I don't seem to care for any meat." On the -other hand, were the vegetables served in the old-fashioned style, but -without any meat, there are many who would feel that they were undergoing a -species of privation, even if they did not say so--we refer to a dish of -plain-boiled potatoes and dry bread, or even the ordinary cabbage served in -the usual way. Supposing, however, a nice little new cabbage is sent to -table, with plenty of really good white sauce or butter sauce, over which -has been sprinkled a little bright green parsley, whilst some crisp fried -bread surrounds the dish--the cabbage is converted into a meal; and if we -take into account the absence of the meat, we still save enormously. The -advice we would give, especially to young housekeepers, is, "Persuasion is -better than force." If you wish to teach a child to swim, it is far easier -to entice him into shallow water on a hot summer's day than to throw him in -against his will in winter time. - -Another point which we consider of great importance is appearances. As far -as possible, we should endeavour to make the dishes look pretty. We are -appealing to a very large class throughout the country who at all cost wish -to keep up appearances. It is an important class, and one on which the -slow but gradual march of civilisation depends. We fear that any attempt -to improve the extreme poor, who live surrounded by dirt and misery, would -be hopeless, unless they still have some lingering feeling of this -self-respect. For the poor woman who snatches a meal off -bread-and-dripping, which she eats without a table-cloth, and then repairs -to the gin-shop to wash it down, nothing can be done. This class will -gradually die out as civilisation advances. This is seen, even in the -present day, in America. - -Fortunately, there is plenty of scope in vegetarian cooking not merely for -refinement, but even elegance. Do not despise the sprinkle of chopped -parsley and red specks of bread-crumbs coloured with cochineal, so often -referred to throughout the following pages. Remember that the cost of -these little accessories to comfort is virtually _nil_. We must remember -also that one sense works upon another. We can please the palate through -the eye. There is some undoubted connection between these senses. If you -doubt it, suck a lemon in front of a German band and watch the result. The -sight of meat causes the saliva to run from the mouths of the carnivorous -animals at the Zoo. This is often noticeable in the case of a dog watching -people eat, and it is an old saying, "It makes one's mouth water to look at -it." In the case of endeavouring to induce a change of living in grown-up -persons, such as husband or children, there is perhaps no method we can -pursue so efficacious as that of making dishes look pretty. A dish of -bright red tomatoes, reposing on the white bosom of a bed of macaroni, -relieved here and there by a few specks of green--what a difference to a -similar dish all mashed up together, and in which the macaroni showed signs -of dirty smears! - -We have endeavoured throughout this book to give chiefly directions about -those dishes which will replace meat. For instance, the vast majority of -pies and puddings will remain the same, and need no detailed treatment -here. Butter supplies the place of suet or lard, and any ordinary, -cookery-book will be found sufficient for the purpose; but it is in dealing -with soups, sauces, rice, macaroni, and vegetables, sent to table under new -conditions, that we hope this book will be found most useful. - -As a rule, English women cooks, especially when their title to the name -depends upon their being the mistress of the house, will often find that -soups and sauces are a weak point. Do not despise, in cooking, little -things. Those who really understand such matters will know how vast is the -difference in flavour occasioned by the addition of that pinch of thyme or -teaspoonful of savoury herbs, and yet there are tens of thousands of -houses, where meat is eaten every day, who never had a bottle of thyme at -their disposal in their lives. As we have said, if we are going to make a -great saving on meat, we can well afford a few trifles, so long as they are -trifles. A sixpenny bottle of thyme will last for months; and if we give -up our gravy beef, or piece of pickled pork, or two-pennyworth of bones, as -the case may be, surely we can afford a little indulgence of this kind. - -A few words on the subject of fritters. When will English housekeepers -grasp the idea of frying? They cannot get beyond a dab of grease or butter -in a frying-pan. The bath of boiling oil seems to be beyond them, or at -any rate a degree of civilisation that has not yet passed beyond the limit -of the fried-fish shop. The oil will do over and over again, and in the -end is undoubtedly cheaper than the dab of grease or butter thrown away. -There are hundreds of men who, in hot weather, would positively prefer a -well-cooked vegetable fritter to meat, but yet they rarely get it at home. -Fruit fritters are also very economical--orange fritters, apple fritters, -&c., because the batter helps to make the dish _a meal_. - -Those who have practised vegetarianism for many years will probably be of -opinion that we have not called sufficient attention to the subject of -fruit and nuts. This is not because we do not believe in their usefulness, -but because we think that those who are _changing_ their mode of living -will be far better enabled to do so without discomfort by making their -chief alterations in diet in the directions we have pointed out. There is -moreover little or no _cookery_ involved in these articles. - -Of the wholesomeness of fresh fruit all are agreed; and as people become -more advanced vegetarians, the desire for fruit and nuts will follow in due -course. In future years, as the demand increases, the supply will -increase; but this is a question of time. Lookers-on often see more of the -game than the players. It is not because the sudden change might not be -beneficial, but because sudden changes are only likely to be effected in -rare instances, that we have taken the view we have. Prejudice is strong, -and it would be very difficult to persuade persons, unless they had been -gradually brought to the change, to regard nuts in the light of food. To -suggest a meal off Brazil nuts would to many have a tendency to put -vegetarianism in a ridiculous light, and nothing kills so readily as -ridicule. - -In conclusion, it will be observed that from time to time we have used the -expression, "if wine be allowed." There is no necessary connection between -vegetarianism and teetotalism, but it would be affectation to deny the fact -that they are generally connected. Of the numerous arguments brought -forward by the advocates of vegetarianism, one is that, in the opinion of -many who speak with authority, a vegetarian diet is best adapted to -those--of whom, unfortunately, there are many--who, from time to time, have -a craving for more stimulant than is beneficial to their health. Many -medical men are of the opinion that large meat-eaters require alcoholic -stimulant, and that they can give up the latter more easily by abstaining -from the former. This is a question for medical men to decide, as it does -not properly come into the province of the cook. - -We have repeatedly mentioned the addition of wine and liqueurs; but when -these are used for flavouring purposes it is not to be regarded in the same -light as if taken alone. There is a common sense in these matters which -should never be overlooked. The teetotaler who attended the Lord Mayor's -dinner, and refused his glass of punch with his turtle-soup, would be -consistent; but to refuse the turtle-soup itself on the ground that a -little wine, probably Madeira, might have been added, would proclaim him to -be a faddist. It is to be regretted that in the present day so many good -causes have been injured by this ostentation of carrying ideas to an -extreme. Practically, where wine is used in cookery, it is added solely -for the peculiar flavour, and _the alcohol itself is evaporated_. To be -consistent, the vast majority of teetotal drinks, and possibly even stewed -fruit itself, would have to be refused on the same ground, viz., an almost -infinitely small trace of alcohol. We think it best to explain the reason -we have introduced the expression, "if wine be allowed." In each case it -is used for flavouring, and flavouring purposes only. We know that with -some persons a very small amount of stimulant creates a desire for more, -and when this is the case the small quantity should be avoided; but in the -case of the quantity being so infinitely small that it ceases to have this -effect, even if not boiled away as it really is, no harm can possibly -arise. Where wine is added to soups and sauces and exposed to heat, this -would be the case. On the other hand, in the case of tipsy-cake, and wine -added to _compote_ of fruit, this would probably not be the case. A great -distinction should be drawn between such cases. It will be found, however, -that in every case we have mentioned the addition is altogether optional, -or a substitute like lemon-juice can be used in its place. - - - - -VEGETARIAN COOKERY - -CHAPTER 1. - -SOUPS. - -GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. - - -There are very few persons, unless they have made vegetarian cookery a -study, who are aware what a great variety of soups can be made without the -use of meat or fish. As a rule, ordinary cookery-books have the one -exception of what is called _soup maigre_. In England it seems to be the -impression that the goodness of the soup depends upon the amount of -nourishment that can be compressed into a small space. It is, however, a -great mistake to think that because we take a large amount of nourishment -we are necessarily nourished. There is a limit, though what that limit is -no one can say, beyond which soup becomes absolutely injurious. A quarter -of a pound of Liebig's Extract of Meat dissolved in half a pint of water is -obviously an over-dose of what is considered nourishment. In France, as a -rule, soup is prepared on an altogether different idea. It is a light, -thin broth, taken at the commencement of the meal to strengthen the -stomach, in order to render it capable of receiving more substantial food -to follow. Vegetarian soups are, of course, to be considered from this -latter point of view. - -We think these few preliminary observations necessary as we have to -overcome a very strong English prejudice, which is too apt to despise -everything of which the remark can be made--"Ah! but there is very little -nourishment in it." Vegetarian soups, as a rule, and especially the thin -ones, must be regarded as a light and pleasant flavouring which, with a -small piece of white bread enables the most obstinately delicate stomach to -commence a repast that experience has found best adapted to its -requirements. - -The basis of all soup is stock, and in making stock we, of course, have to -depend upon vegetables, fruit, or some kind of farinaceous food. To a -certain extent the water in which any kind of vegetable has been boiled may -be regarded as stock, especially water that has boiled roots, such as -potatoes; or grains, such as rice. It will not, however, be necessary to -enter into any general description as to the best method of obtaining -nutriment in a liquid form from vegetables and grain, as directions will be -given in each recipe, but a few words are necessary on the general subject -of flavouring stock. In making ordinary soup we are very much dependent -for flavour, if the soup be good, on the meat, the vegetables acting only -as accessories. In making stock for vegetarian soups we are chiefly -dependent for flavour on the vegetables themselves, and consequently great -care must be taken that these flavourings are properly _blended_. The -great difficulty in giving directions in cookery-books, and in -understanding them when given, is the insuperable one of avoiding vague -expressions. For instance, suppose we read, "Take two onions, one carrot, -one turnip, and one head of celery,"--what does this mean? It will be -found practically that these directions vary considerably according to the -neighbourhood or part of the country in which we live. For instance, so -much depends upon where we take our head of celery from. Suppose we bought -our head of celery in Bond Street or the Central Arcade in Covent Garden -Market on the one hand, or off a barrow in the Mile End Road on the other. -Again, onions vary so much in size that we cannot draw any hard-and-fast -line between a little pickling onion no bigger than a marble and a Spanish -onion as big as a baby's head. It would be possible to be very precise and -say, "Take so many ounces of celery, or so many pounds of carrot, but -practically we cannot turn the kitchen into a chemist's shop. Cooks, -whether told to use celery in heads or ounces, would act on guess-work just -the same. What are absolutely essential are two things--common sense and -experience. - -Again, practically, we must avoid giving too many ingredients. Novices in -the art of cooking are, of course, unable to distinguish between those -vegetables that are absolutely essential and those added to give a slight -extra flavour, but which make very little difference to the soup whether -they are added or not. We are often directed to add a few leaves of -tarragon, or chervil, or a handful of sorrel. Of course, in a large -kitchen, presided over by a Francatelli, these are easily obtainable; but -in ordinary private houses, and in most parts of the country, they are not -only unobtainable but have never even been heard of at the greengrocer's -shop. - -In making soups, as a rule, the four vegetables essential are, onion, -celery, carrot and turnip; and we place them in their order of merit. In -making vegetarian soup it is very important that we should learn how to -blend these without making any one flavour too predominant. This can only -be learnt by experience. If we have too much onion the soup tastes rank; -too much celery will make it bitter; too much carrot often renders the soup -sweet; and the turnip overpowers every other flavour. Again, these -vegetables vary so much in strength that were we to peel and weigh them the -result would not be uniform, in addition to the fact that not one cook in a -thousand would take the trouble to do it. Perhaps the most dangerous -vegetable with which we have to deal is turnip. These vary so very much in -strength that sometimes even one slice of turnip will be found too strong. -In flavouring soups with these vegetables, the first care should be to see -that they are thoroughly cleansed. In using celery, too much of the green -part should be avoided if you wish to make first-rate soup. In using the -onions, if they are old and strong, the core can be removed. In using -carrot, if you are going to have any soup where vegetables will be cut up -and served in the soup, you should always peel off the outside red part of -the carrot and reserve it for this purpose, and only use the inside or -yellow part for flavouring purposes if is going to be thrown away or to -lose its identity by being rubbed through a wire sieve with other -vegetables. With regard to turnip, we can only add one word of -caution--not too much. We may here mention, before leaving the subject of -ingredients, that leeks and garlic are a substitute for onion, and can also -be used in conjunction with it. - -As a rule, in vegetarian cookery clear soups are rare, and, of course, from -an economical point of view, they are not to be compared with thick soups. -Some persons, in making stock, recommend what is termed bran tea. Half a -pint of bran is boiled in about three pints of water, and a certain amount -of nutriment can be extracted from the bran, which also imparts colour. - -For the purpose of colouring clear soups, however, there is nothing in the -world to compare with what French cooks call _caramel_. Caramel is really -burnt sugar. There is a considerable art in preparing it, as it is -necessary that it should impart colour, and colour _only_. When prepared -in the rough-and-ready manner of burning sugar in a spoon, as is too often -practised in English kitchens, this desideratum is never attained, as you -are bound to impart sweetness in addition to a burnt flavour. The simplest -and by far the most economical method of using caramel is to buy it -ready-made. It is sold by all grocers under the name of Parisian Essence. -A small bottle, costing about eightpence, will last a year, and saves an -infinite loss of time, trouble, and temper. - -By far the most economical soups are the thick, where all the ingredients -can be rubbed through a wire sieve. Thick soups can be divided into two -classes--ordinary brown soup, and white soup. The ordinary brown is the -most economical, as in white soups milk is essential, and if the soup is -wished to be very good it is necessary to add a little cream. - -Soups owe their thickness to two processes. We can thicken the soup by -adding flour of various kinds, such as ordinary flour, corn-flour, &c., and -soup can also be thickened by having some of the ingredients of which it is -composed rubbed through a sieve. This class of soups may be called Purees. -For instance, Palestine soup is really a puree of Jerusalem artichokes; -ordinary pea soup is a puree of split peas. In making our ordinary -vegetarian soups of all kinds, as a rule, all the ingredients should be -rubbed through a sieve. The economy of this is obvious on the face of it. -In the case of thickening soup by means of some kinds of flour, for -richness and flavour there is nothing to equal ordinary flour that has been -cooked. This is what Frenchmen call roux. - -As white and brown roux are the very backbone of vegetarian cookery a few -words of explanation may not be out of place. On referring to the recipe -for making white and brown roux, it will be seen that it is simply flour -cooked by means of frying it in butter, In white roux each grain of flour -is cooked till it is done. In brown roux each grain of flour is cooked -till it is done brown. We cannot exaggerate the importance of getting -cooks to see the enormous difference between thickening soups or gravy with -white or brown roux and simply thickening them with plain butter and flour. -The taste of the soup in the two cases is altogether different. The -difference is this. Suppose you have just been making some pastry--some -good, rich, puff paste--you have got two pies, and, as you probably know, -this pastry is simply butter and flour. Place one pie in the oven and bake -it till it is a nice rich brown. Now taste the pie-crust. It is probably -delicious. Now taste the piece of the pie that has not been baked at all. -It is nauseous. The difference is--one is butter and flour that has been -cooked, the other is butter and flour that has not been cooked. - - * * * * * - -One word of warning in conclusion. Cooks should always remember the good -old saying--that it is quite possible to have too much of a good thing. -They should be particularly warned to bear this in mind in adding herbs, -such as ordinary mixed flavouring herbs, or, as they are sometimes called, -savoury herbs, and thyme. This is also very important if wine is added to -soup, though, as a rule, vegetarians rarely use wine in cooking; but the -same principle applies to the substitute for wine--viz., lemon juice. It -is equally important to bear this in mind in using white and brown roux. -If we make the soup too thick we spoil it, and it is necessary to add water -to bring it to its proper consistency, which, of course, diminishes the -flavour. The proper consistency of any soup thickened with roux should be -that of ordinary cream. Beyond this point the cooked flour will overpower -almost every other flavour, and the great beauty of vegetarian cookery is -its simplicity, it appeals to a taste that is refined and natural, and not -to one that has been depraved. - - * * * * * - -STOCK.--Strictly speaking, in vegetarian cookery, stock is the goodness and -flavouring that can be extracted from vegetables, the chief ones being -onion, celery, carrot, and turnip. In order to make stock, take these -vegetables, cut them up into small pieces, after having thoroughly cleansed -them, place them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them, and let -them boil gently for several hours. The liquor, when strained off, may be -called stock. It can be flavoured with a small quantity of savoury herbs, -pepper, and salt, as well as a little mushroom ketchup. It can be coloured -with a few drops of Parisian essence, or burnt sugar. Its consistency can -be improved by the addition of a small quantity of corn-flour. Sufficient -corn-flour must be added not to make it thick but like very thin gum. In a -broader sense, the water in which rice, lentils, beans and potatoes have -been boiled may be called stock. Again, the water in which macaroni, -vermicelli, sparghetti, and all kinds of Italian paste has been boiled, may -be called stock. The use of liquors of this kind must be left to the -common sense of the cook, as, of course, it would only be obtainable when -these materials are required for use. - - -BROWN AND WHITE THICKENING, OR ROUX.--It is of great importance for -vegetarians always to have on hand a fairly good stock of white and brown -roux, as it is a great saving both of time and money. As roux will keep -good for weeks, and even months, there is no fear of waste in making a -quantity at a time. Take a pound of flour, with a spoonful or two over; -see that it is thoroughly dry, and then sift it. Next take a pound of -butter and squeeze it in a cloth so as as much as possible to extract all -the moisture from it. Next take a stew-pan--an enamelled one is best--and -melt the butter till it runs to oil. It will now be found that, although -the bulk of the butter looks like oil, a certain amount of froth will rise -to the top. This must be carefully skimmed off. Continue to expose the -butter to a gentle heat till the scum ceases to rise. Now pour off the -oiled butter very gently into a basin till you come to some dregs. These -should be thrown away, or, at any rate, not used in making the roux. Now -mix the pound of dried and sifted flour with the oiled butter, which is -what the French cooks call clarified butter. Place it back in the -stew-pan, put the stew-pan over a tolerably good fire, but not too fierce, -as there is a danger of its burning. With a wooden spoon keep stirring -this mixture, and keep scraping the bottom of the stew-pan, first in one -place and then in another, being specially careful of the edges, to prevent -its burning. Gradually the mixture will begin to turn colour. As soon as -this turn of colour is perceptible take out half and put it in a basin. -This is the white roux, viz., flour cooked in butter but not discoloured -beyond a very trifling amount. Keep the stew-pan on the fire, and go on -stirring the remainder, which will get gradually darker and darker in -colour. As soon as the colour is that of light chocolate remove the -stew-pan from the fire altogether, but still continue scraping and stirring -for a few minutes longer, as the enamel retains the heat to such an extent -that it will sometimes burn after it has been removed from the fire. It is -important not to have the mixture too dark, and it will be found by -experience that it gets darker after the stew-pan has been removed from the -fire. When we say light chocolate we refer to the colour of a cake of -chocolate that has been broken. The inside is the colour, not the outside. -It is advisable sometimes to have by you ready a large slice of onion, and -if you think it is dark enough you can throw this in and immediately by -this means slacken the heat. Pour the brown roux into a separate basin, -and put them by for use. - -In the houses of most vegetarians more white roux will be used than brown, -consequently more than half should be removed if this is the case when the -roux first commences to turn colour. When the brown roux gets cold it has -all the appearance of chocolate, and when you use it it is best to scrape -off the quantity you require with a spoon, and not add it to soups or -sauces in one lump. - - -ALMOND SOUP.--Take half a pound of sweet almonds and blanch them, _i.e._, -throw them into boiling water till the outside skin can be rubbed off -easily with the finger. Then immediately throw the white almonds into cold -water, otherwise they will quickly lose their white colour like potatoes -that have been peeled. Next, slice up an onion and half a small head of -celery, and let these simmer gently in a quart of milk. In the meantime -pound the almonds with four hard-boiled yolks of egg, strain off the milk -and add the pounded almonds and egg to the milk gradually, and let it boil -over the fire. Add sufficient white roux till the soup becomes of the -consistency of cream. Serve some fried or toasted bread with the soup. It -is a great improvement to add half a pint of cream, but this makes the soup -much more expensive. The soup can be flavoured with a little white pepper. - -N.B.--The onion and celery that was strained off can be used again for -flavouring purposes. - - -APPLE SOUP.--This is a German recipe. Take half a dozen good-sized apples, -peel them and remove the core, and boil them in a quart of water with two -tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; add the juice of a lemon, and flavour it -with rather less than a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon; sweeten -the soup with lump sugar, previously having rubbed six lumps on the outside -of the lemon. - - -ARTICHOKE SOUP.--Take a dozen large Jerusalem artichokes about as big as -the fist, or more to make up a similar quantity. Peel them, and, like -potatoes, throw them into cold water in order to prevent them turning -colour. Boil them in as little water as possible, as they contain a good -deal of water themselves, till they are tender and become a pulp, taking -care that they do not burn, and therefore it is best to rub the saucepan at -the bottom with a piece of butter. Now rub them through a wire sieve and -add them to a pint of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves have been -boiled. Add also two lumps of sugar and a little white pepper and salt. -Serve the soup with fried or toasted bread. This soup can be made much -richer by the addition of either a quarter of a pint of cream or a couple -of yolks of eggs. If yolks of eggs are added, beat up the yolks separately -and add the soup gradually, very hot, but not quite boiling, otherwise the -yolks will curdle. - - -ASPARAGUS SOUP.--Take a good-sized bundle (about fifty large heads) of -asparagus, and after a thorough cleansing throw them into a saucepan of -boiling water that has been salted. When the tops become tender, drain off -the asparagus and throw it into cold water, as by this means we retain the -bright green colour; when cold cut off all the best part of the green into -little pieces, about half an inch long, then put the remainder of the -asparagus--the stalk part--into a saucepan, with a few green onions and a -few sprigs of parsley, with about a quart of stock or water; add a -teaspoonful of pounded sugar and a very little grated nutmeg. Let this -boil till the stalks become quite tender, then rub the whole through a wire -sieve and thicken the soup with a little white roux, and colour it a bright -green with some spinach extract. Now add the little pieces cut up, and let -the whole simmer gently, and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - -N.B.--SPINACH EXTRACT.--It is very important in making all green vegetable -soups that they should be of a green colour, such as the one above -mentioned--green-pea soup, &c., and that we get a _good_ colour, and this -is only to be obtained by means of spinach extract. Spinach extract can be -made at home, but it will be found to be far more economical to have a -small bottle of green vegetable colouring always in the house. These -bottles can be obtained from all grocers at the cost of about tenpence or -one shilling each. Such a very small quantity goes such a long way that -one bottle would probably last a family of six persons twelve months. As -we have said, it can be made at home, but the process, though not -difficult, is troublesome. It is made as follows:--A quantity of spinach -has, after being thoroughly washed, to be pounded in a mortar until it -becomes a pulp. This pulp is then placed in a very strong, coarse cloth, -and the cloth is twisted till the juice of the spinach is squeezed out -through the cloth. The amount of force required is very considerable and -is almost beyond the power of ordinary women cooks. This juice must now be -placed in a small enamelled saucepan, and must be heated till it becomes -thick and pulpy, when it can be put by for use. It will probably be found -cheaper to buy spinach extract than to make it, as manual labour cannot -compete with machinery. - - -BARLEY SOUP.--Take two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley and wash it in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Put this in a -saucepan with about two quarts of water, two onions sliced up, a few -potatoes sliced very thin, and about a saltspoonful of thyme. Let the -whole boil gently for four or five hours, till the barley is quite soft and -eatable. Thicken the soup very slightly with a little white roux, season -it with pepper and salt. Before serving the soup, add a tablespoonful of -chopped blanched parsley. - -N.B.--When chopped parsley is added to any soup or sauce, such as parsley -and butter, it is very important that the parsley be blanched. To blanch -parsley means to throw it for a few seconds into boiling water. By this -means a dull green becomes a bright green. The best method to blanch -parsley is to place it in a strainer and dip the strainer for a few seconds -in a saucepan of boiling water. By comparing the colour of the parsley -that has been so treated with some that has not been blanched, cooks will -at once see the importance of the operation so far as appearances are -concerned. - - -BEETROOT SOUP.--This soup is better adapted to the German palate than the -English, as it contains both vinegar and sugar, which are very -characteristic of German cookery. Take two large beetroots and two -good-sized onions, and after peeling the beetroots boil them and mince them -finely, adding them, of course, to the water in which they were boiled, or -still better, they can be boiled in some sort of stock. Add a very small -quantity of corn-flour, to give a slight consistency to the soup, as well -as a little pinch of thyme. Next add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar--more -or less according to taste--a spoonful of brown sugar, and a little pepper -and salt. - - -BEAN SOUP, OR PUREE OF RED HARICOT BEANS.--Put a quart of red haricot beans -into soak overnight, and put a little piece of soda in the water to soften -it. The next morning put the beans on to boil in three quarts of water, -with some carrot, celery and onion, or the beans can be boiled in some -stock made from these vegetables. After the beans are tender, pound them -in a mortar, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve, after first -removing the carrot, celery and onion. Add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar -and about two ounces of butter. Fried or toasted bread should be served -with the soup. If the soup is liked thin, of course more water can be -added. - - -BEAN SOUP, OR PUREE OF WHITE HARICOT BEANS.--Proceed exactly as in the -above recipe, only substituting white haricot beans for red. It is a great -improvement to add a little boiling cream, but of course this makes the -soup much more expensive. Some cooks add a spoonful of blanched, chopped -parsley to this puree, and Frenchmen generally flavour this soup with -garlic. - - -BEAN SOUP, GREEN.--Boil a quart of ordinary broad-beans in some stock or -water with an onion, carrot and celery. Remove the skins when the beans -are tender and rub the beans through a wire sieve. Colour the soup with a -little spinach extract--(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles)--add a -little piece of butter, a little powdered sugar, pepper and salt. The -amount of stock or water must depend upon whether it is wished to have the -puree thick or thin. Some purees are made as thick as bread sauce, while -some persons prefer them much thinner. This is purely a matter of taste. - - -BEAN SOUP FROM FRENCH BEANS.--This is an admirable method of using up -French beans or scarlet runners when they get too old to be boiled as a -vegetable in the ordinary way. Take any quantity of French beans and boil -them in some stock or water with an onion, carrot, or celery for about an -hour, taking care, at starting, to throw them into boiling water in order -to preserve their colour. It is also a saving of trouble to chop the beans -slightly at starting, _i.e._, take a bunch of beans in the left hand and -cut them into pieces, say an eighth of an inch in thickness. Boil them -till they are tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Add a -little butter, pepper and salt, and colour the soup with spinach -extract--(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles). Serve toasted or fried -bread with the puree, which should be rather thick. - - -CABBAGE SOUP.--Take a white cabbage and slice it up, and throw it into some -stock or water, with some leeks and slices of turnip. Boil the whole till -the vegetables are tender, flavour with pepper and salt. This is sometimes -called Cornish broth, though in Cornwall a piece of meat or bones are -generally boiled with the vegetables. As no meat, of course, is used, too -much water must not be added, but only sufficient liquor must be served to -make the vegetables thoroughly moist. Perhaps the consistency can best be -described by saying that there should be equal quantities of vegetables and -fluid. - - -CARROT SOUP.--If you wish this soup to be of a good colour, you must only -use the outside, or red part, of the carrot, in which case a dozen large -carrots will be required. If economy is practised, half this quantity will -be sufficient. Take, say, half a dozen carrots, a small head of celery, -and one onion, and throw them into boiling water for a few minutes in order -to preserve the colour. Then drain them off and place them in a saucepan, -with a couple of ounces of butter to prevent them sticking and burning, and -place the saucepan on a very slack fire and let them stew so that the steam -can escape, but take care they don't burn or get brown. Now add a quart or -two quarts of stock or water and boil them till they are tender. Then rub -the whole through a wire sieve, add a little butter, pounded sugar, pepper, -and salt. The amount of liquid added must entirely depend upon the size of -the carrots. It is better to add too little than too much, but the -consistency of the soup should be like ordinary pea soup; it does not do to -have the soup watery. If only the outside parts of carrots are used, and -this red part is thrown, at starting, into boiling water to preserve its -colour, this soup, when made thick, has a very bright and handsome -appearance, and is suitable for occasions when a little extra hospitality -is exercised. The inside part of the carrot, if not used for making the -soup, need not be wasted, but can be used for making stock, or served in a -dish of mixed vegetables on some other occasion. - - -CAULIFLOWER SOUP.--Take three or four small cauliflowers, or two large -ones, soak them in salt and water, and boil them in some water till they -are nearly tender. Take them out and break the cauliflower so that you get -two or three dozen little pieces out of the heart of the cauliflower, -somewhat resembling miniature bouquets. Put the rest of the cauliflower -back into the water in which it was boiled, with the exception of the green -part of the leaves, with an onion and some of the white part of a head of -celery. Let all boil till the water has nearly boiled away. Now rub all -this through a wire sieve, onions, celery, cauliflower, and all; add to it -sufficient boiling milk to make the whole of the consistency of pea soup. -Add a little butter, pepper, and salt; throw in those little pieces of -cauliflower that had been reserved a minute or two before serving the soup. -It is an improvement to boil two or three bay-leaves with the milk, and -also a very great improvement indeed to add a little boiling cream. Fried -or toasted bread should be served with the soup. - - -CELERY SOUP.--Take half a dozen heads of celery, or a smaller quantity if -the heads of celery are very large; throw away all the green part and cut -up the celery into small pieces, with one onion sliced, and place them in a -frying-pan, or, better still, in an enamelled stew-pan, and stew them in a -little butter, taking great care that the celery does not turn colour. Now -add sufficient water or stock, and let it all boil till the celery becomes -quite tender. Let it boil till it becomes a pulp, and then rub the whole -through a wire sieve. Next boil separately from one to two quarts of milk -according to the quantity of celery pulp, and boil a couple of bay-leaves -in the milk. As soon as the milk boils add it to the celery pulp, flavour -the soup with pepper and salt; serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. -It is needless to say that all these white soups are greatly improved both -in appearance and flavour by the addition of a little cream. - - -CHEESE SOUP.--Light-coloured and dry cheese is necessary for this somewhat -peculiar soup, but the best cheese of all is, undoubtedly, Gruyere. Grate -half a pound of cheese and spread a layer of this at the bottom of the -soup-tureen. Cover this layer of cheese with some very thin slices of -stale crumb of bread. Then put another layer of cheese and another layer -of bread till all the cheese is used up. Next take about two -tablespoonfuls of brown roux, melt this in a small saucepan, and add two -tablespoonfuls of chopped onion. Let the onion cook in the melted roux -over the fire, and then add a quart of water, and stir it all up till it -boils, adding pepper and salt and a few drops of Parisian essence (burnt -sugar) to give it a dark brown colour. Now pour the boiling soup over the -contents of the soup-tureen, and let it stand a few minutes so that the -bread has time to soak, and serve. - - -CHERRY SOUP.--Like most soups that are either sweet or sour, this is a -German recipe. Put a piece of butter, the size of a large egg, into a -saucepan. Let it melt, then mix it with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir -smoothly until it is lightly browned. Add gradually two pints of water, a -pound of black cherries, picked and washed, and a few cloves. Let these -boil until the fruit is quite tender, then press the whole through a sieve. -After straining, add a little port, if wine is allowed--but the soup will -be very nice without this addition--half a teaspoonful of the kernels, -blanched and bruised, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a few whole cherries. -Let the soup boil again until the cherries are tender, and pour all into a -tureen over toasted sippets, sponge-cakes, or macaroons. - - -CHESTNUT SOUP, OR PUREE OF CHESTNUTS.--Take four dozen chestnuts and peel -them. This will be a very long process if we attempt to take off the skins -while they are raw; but in order to save time and trouble, place the -chestnuts in a stew-pan with a couple of ounces of butter. Place them on a -slack fire and occasionally give them a stir. Heat them gradually till the -husks come off without any difficulty. Having removed all the husks, add -sufficient stock or water to the chestnuts, and let them boil gently till -they are tender. Then pound them in a mortar and rub them through a wire -sieve. Add a very little brown roux, if the soup is to be brown, and a few -drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar), or a little white roux and a -little cream if the soup is to be white. Add also a little pepper and -salt, sufficient butter to make the puree taste soft, and a little powdered -sugar. Fried and toasted bread should be served with the soup. - - -COTTAGE SOUP.--Fry two onions, a carrot and a turnip, and a small head of -celery cut up into small pieces, in a frying-pan, with a little butter, -till they are lightly browned. Then put them in a saucepan, with about two -quarts of water and a tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. Let this boil -till the vegetables are quite tender, and then thicken the soup with two -ounces of oatmeal or prepared barley. This must be mixed with cold water -and made quite smooth before it is added to the soup. Wash a quarter of a -pound of rice, and boil this in the soup, and when the rice is quite tender -the soup can be served. Some persons add a little sugar, and dried -powdered mint can be handed round with the soup, like pea soup. - - -CLEAR SOUP.--Make a very strong stock by cutting up onion, celery, carrot, -and a little turnip, and boiling them in some water. They should boil for -two or three hours. Add also a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs to every -quart, and colour the stock with a few drops of Parisian essence. Strain -it off, and, if it is not bright, clear it with some white of egg in the -ordinary way. Take only sufficient corn-flour to make the soup less thin -or watery, but do not make it thick. A tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup -can be added to every quart. - - -COCOANUT SOUP.--Break open a good-sized cocoanut and grate sufficient of -the white part till it weighs half a pound. Boil this in some stock, and -after it has boiled for about an hour strain it off. Only a small quantity -of stock must be used, and the cocoanut should be pressed and squeezed, so -as to extract all the goodness. Add a little pepper and salt, and about -half a grated nutmeg. Next boil separately three pints of milk, and add -this to the strained soup. Thicken the soup with some ground rice, and -serve. Of course, a little cream would be a great improvement. Serve with -toasted or fried bread. - - -ENDIVE SOUP, OR PUREE.--Take half a dozen endives that are white in the -centre, and wash them very thoroughly in salt and water, as they are apt to -contain insects. Next throw. them into boiling water, and let them boil -for a quarter of an hour. Then take them out and throw them into cold -water. Next take them out of the cold water and squeeze them in a cloth so -as to extract all the moisture. Then cut off the root of each endive, chop -up all the white leaves, and place them in a stew-pan with about two ounces -of butter. Add half a grated nutmeg, a brimming teaspoonful of powdered -white sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Stir them over the fire with a -wooden spoon, and take care they don't burn or turn colour. Next add -sufficient milk to moisten them, and let them simmer gently till they are -tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve, add a little piece of -butter, and serve with fried or toasted bread. - - -FRUIT SOUP.--Fruit soup can be made from rhubarb, vegetable marrow, -cucumber, gourd, or pumpkin. They may be all mixed with a little cream, -milk, or butter, and form a nice dish that is both healthful and delicate. - - -GREEN PEA SOUP.--(_See_ PEA.) - - -GREEN PEA SOUP, DRIED.--(_See_ PEA.) - - -HARE SOUP (IMITATION).--Take one large carrot, a small head of celery, one -good-sized onion, and half a small turnip, and boil these in a quart of -water till they are tender. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, and -thicken the soup with some brown roux till it is as thick as good cream. -Next add a brimming saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. These herbs -are sold in bottles by all grocers under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. -Flavour the soup with cayenne pepper, a glass of port wine (port wine dregs -will do), dissolve in it a small dessertspoonful of red-currant jelly, and -add the juice of half a lemon. - -N.B.--Aromatic flavouring herbs are exceedingly useful in cooking. It is -cheaper to buy them ready made, under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. They -can, however, be made at home as follows:--Take two ounces of white -peppercorns, two ounces of cloves, one ounce of marjoram, one ounce of -sweet basil and one ounce of lemon-thyme, one ounce of powdered nutmeg, one -ounce of powdered mace, and half an ounce of dried bay-leaves. The herbs -must be wrapped up in paper (one or two little paper bags, one inside the -other, is best), and dried very slowly in the oven till they are brittle. -They must then be pounded in a mortar, and mixed with the spices, and the -whole sifted through a fine hair-sieve and put by in a stoppered bottle for -use. - - -HOTCH-POTCH.--Cut up some celery, onion, carrot, turnip, and leeks into -small pieces and fry them for a few minutes in about two ounces of butter -in a frying-pan, very gently, taking care that they do not in the least -degree turn colour. Previous to this, wash and boil about a quarter of a -pound of pearl barley for four or five hours. When the barley is tender, -or nearly tender, add the contents of the frying-pan. Let it all boil till -the vegetables are tender, and about half an hour before the soup is sent -to table throw in, while the soup is boiling, half a pint of fresh green -peas--those known as marrowfats are best,--and about five minutes before -sending the soup to table throw in a spoonful (in the proportion of a -dessertspoonful to every quart) of chopped, blanched parsley--_i.e._, -parsley that has been thrown into boiling water before it is chopped. -Colour the soup green with a little spinach extract (vegetable colouring -sold in bottles by all grocers). The thinness of the soup can be removed -by the addition of a small quantity of white roux. - - -JARDINIERE SOUP.--Cut up into thin strips some carrot, turnip and celery, -add a dozen or more small button onions, similar to those used for -pickling, and also a few hearts of lettuces cut up fine, as well as a few -fresh tarragon leaves cut into strips as thin as small string. Simmer -these gently in some clear soup (_see_ CLEAR SOUP) till tender; add a lump -of sugar, and serve. - -N.B.--The tarragon should not be thrown in till the last minute. - - -JULIENNE SOUP.--This soup is exactly similar to the previous one, the only -exception being that all the vegetables are first stewed very gently, till -they are tender, in a little butter. Care should be taken that the -vegetables do not turn colour. - - -LEEK SOUP.--Take half a dozen or more fine large leeks, and after trimming -off the green part, throw them into boiling water for five minutes, then -drain them off and dry them. Cut them into pieces about half an inch long, -and stew them gently in a little butter till they are tender. Add three -pints of milk, and let two bay-leaves boil in the milk, flavour with pepper -and salt, and add a suspicion of grated nutmeg. Thicken the soup with a -little white roux and take the crust of a French roll. Cut this up into -small pieces or rings. The rings can be made by simply scooping out the -crumb, and cutting the roll across. When the leeks have boiled in the milk -till they are quite tender, pour the soup over the crusts placed at the -bottom of the soup-tureen. Some cooks add blanched parsley. Of course, -cream would be a great improvement. - - -LENTIL SOUP.--Take a breakfastcupful of green lentils and put them to soak -in cold water overnight. In the morning throw away any floating on the -top. Drain the lentils and put them in a stew-pan or saucepan with some -stock or water, and add two onions, two carrots, a turnip, a bunch of -parsley, a small teaspoonful of savoury herbs and a small head of celery. -If you have no celery add half a teaspoonful of bruised celery seed. You -can also add a crust of stale bread. Let the whole boil, and it will be -found that occasionally a dark film will rise to the surface. This must be -skimmed off. The soup must boil for about four hours, or at any rate till -the lentils are thoroughly soft. Then strain the soup through a wire -sieve, and rub the whole of the contents through the wire sieve with the -soup. This requires both time and patience. After the whole has been -rubbed through the sieve the soup must be boiled up, and if made from green -lentils it can be coloured green with some spinach extract--(vegetable -colouring, sold in bottles). If made from Egyptian (red) lentils, the soup -can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar). In -warming up this soup, after the lentils have been rubbed through a sieve, -it should be borne in mind that the lentil powder has a tendency to settle, -and consequently the saucepan must be constantly stirred to prevent it -burning. In serving the soup at table, the contents of the soup-tureen -should be stirred with the soup-ladle before each help. - - -LENTIL PUREE A LA SOUBISE.--This is really lentil soup, made as above, -rather thick, to which has been added a puree of onions, made as -follows:--Slice up, say four large onions, and fry them brown in a little -butter, then boil them in some of the broth of the soup till they are -tender. Rub them through a wire sieve and add them to the soup. - - -MACARONI SOUP (CLEAR).--Take some macaroni and break it up into pieces -about two inches long. Boil them till they are tender in some salted -water, drain them off and add them to some clear soup. (_See_ CLEAR SOUP.) - - -MACARONI SOUP (THICK).--Take an onion, carrot, a small head of celery and a -very small quantity of turnip; cut them up and boil them in a very small -quantity of water for about an hour. Then rub the whole through a wire -sieve, add a quart or more of boiling milk, throw in the macaroni, after -breaking it up into pieces two inches long, and let the macaroni simmer in -this till it is perfectly tender. The soup should be thickened with a very -little white roux, a bay-leaf can be boiled in the soup; a small quantity -of cream is a great improvement. Fried or toasted bread should be served -with it. - - -MILK SOUP.--Milk soup, as it is sometimes called in Germany, very much -resembles English custard. It is made by putting a quart of milk on the -fire and thickening it with two yolks of eggs and a little flour, and -sweetening it with sugar. The soup is flavoured with either vanilla, -lemon, laurel leaves, pounded almonds, cinnamon, chocolate, &c. As a soup, -however, it is not suited to the English palate. - - -MOCK TURTLE, IMITATION.--Take an onion, carrot, small head of celery, and -some turnip, and boil them till they are tender in some stock. The water -in which some rice has been boiled is very well suited for the purpose. -Add also to every quart a brimming tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. -Rub the whole through a wire sieve, thicken it with brown roux till it is -as thick as cream; add a few drops of Parisian essence--(sold in bottles by -all grocers)--to give it a dark colour. Add a wineglassful of sherry or -Madeira, or, if the use of wine be objected to, the juice of a hard lemon. -Flavour the soup with a little cayenne pepper, and serve some egg forcemeat -balls in it, about the size of small marbles. - - -MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.--Take four large onions, cut them up and fry them brown, -with a little butter, in a frying-pan, with a carrot cut up into small -pieces; add to this a quart of stock or water, and boil till the vegetables -and onions are tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve and add a -brimming teaspoonful of Captain White's Curry Paste and a dessertspoonful -of curry powder, previously mixed smooth in a little cold water; thicken -the soup with a little brown roux. Some persons would consider this soup -too hot; if so, less curry powder can be used or more water added. If you -have no curry paste, cut up a sour apple and add it to the vegetables in -the frying-pan. If you have no sour apples, a few green gooseberries are a -very good substitute. Boiled rice should be served on a separate dish with -this soup, and should not be boiled in the soup at starting. - - -ONION SOUP.--Cut up half a dozen onions and throw them for a few minutes -into boiling water. This takes off the rankness. Drain off the onions, -and chop them up and boil them till they are tender in some milk that has -been seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of savoury herbs. Take a -small quantity of celery, carrot and turnip, or carrot and turnip and a -little bruised celery seed, and boil till they are tender in a very little -water; rub through a wire sieve, and add the pulp to the soup. The soup -can be thickened with white roux, ground rice, or one or two eggs beaten -up. The soup must be added to the eggs gradually or they will curdle. - - -ONION SOUP, BROWN.--Take an onion, carrot, celery, and turnip, and let them -boil till quite tender in some water or stock. In the meantime slice up -half a dozen large onions and fry them brown in a little butter, in a -frying-pan, taking care that the onions are browned and not burnt black; -add the contents of the frying-pan to the vegetables and stock, and after -it has boiled some time, till the onions are tender, rub the whole through -a wire sieve, thicken with a little brown roux, adding, of course, pepper -and salt to taste. - - -OX-TAIL SOUP, IMITATION.--Slice off the outside red part of two or three -large carrots, and cut them up into small dice not bigger than a quarter of -an inch square. Cut up also into similar size a young turnip, and the -white, hard part of a head of celery. Fry these very gently in a little -butter, taking care that the vegetables do not turn colour. Make some soup -exactly in every respect similar to that described in Imitation Mock -Turtle. Throw in these fried vegetables, and let the soup simmer gently by -the side of the fire, in order for it to throw up its butter, which should -be skimmed off. In flavouring the soup, add only half the quantity of wine -or lemon juice that you would use were you making Mock Turtle. - - -PALESTINE SOUP.--(_See_ ARTICHOKE SOUP.) - - -PARSNIP SOUP.--Prepare half a dozen parsnips, and boil them with an onion -and half a head of celery in some stock till they are quite tender. Then -rub the whole through a wire sieve, boil it up again, and serve. -Sufficient parsnips must be boiled to make the soup as thick as pea soup, -so the quantity of stock must be regulated accordingly. This soup is -generally rather sweet, owing to the parsnips, and an extra quantity of -salt must be added in consequence, as well as pepper. In Belgium and -Germany this sweetness is corrected by the addition of vinegar. This, of -course, is a matter of taste. - - -PEAR SOUP.--Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. Put them into -a stew-pan with a penny roll cut into thin slices, half a dozen cloves, and -three pints of water. Let them simmer until they are quite tender, then -pass them through a coarse sieve, and return the puree to the saucepan, -with two ounces of sugar, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, and half a -tumblerful of light wine. Let the soup boil five or ten minutes, when it -will be ready for serving. Send some sponge-cake to table with this dish. - - -PEA SOUP, FROM SPLIT DRIED PEAS.--Take a pint of split peas and put them in -soak overnight in some cold water, and throw away those that float, as this -shows that there is a hole in them which would be mildewy. Take two -onions, a carrot, a small head of celery, and boil them with the peas in -from three pints to two quarts of water till they are tender. This will be -from four to five hours. When the peas are old and stale even longer time -should be allowed. Then rub the whole through a wire sieve, put the soup -back into the saucepan, and stir it while you make it hot or it will burn. -In ordinary cookery, pea soup is invariably made from some kind of greasy -stock, more especially the water in which pickled pork has been boiled. In -the present instance we have no kind of fat to counteract the natural -dryness of the pea-flour. We must therefore add, before sending to table, -two or three ounces of butter. It will be found best to dissolve the -butter in the saucepan before adding the soup to be warmed up, as it is -then much less likely to stick to the bottom of the saucepan and burn. -Fried or toasted bread should be served with the soup separately, as well -as dried and powdered mint. The general mistake people make is, they do -not have sufficient mint. - - -PEA SOUP, FROM DRIED GREEN PEAS.--Proceed as in the above recipe in every -respect, substituting dried green peas for ordinary yellow split peas. -Colour the soup green by adding a large handful of spinach before it is -rubbed through the wire sieve, or add a small quantity of spinach extract -(vegetable colouring sold by grocers in bottles); dried mint and fried or -toasted bread should be served with the soup, as with the other. - - -PEA SOUP, GREEN (FRESH).--Take half a peck of young peas, shell them, and -throw the peas into cold water. Put all the shells into a quart or more of -stock or water. Put in also a handful of spinach if possible, a few sprigs -of parsley, a dozen fresh mint-leaves and half a dozen small, fresh, green -onions. Boil these for an hour, or rather more, and then rub the whole -through a wire sieve. You cannot rub all the shells through; but you will -be able to rub a great part through, that which is left in the sieve being -only strings. Now put on the soup to boil again, and as soon as it boils -throw in the peas; as soon as these are tender--about twenty minutes--the -soup is finished and can be sent to table. If the soup is thin, a little -white roux can be added to thicken it; if of a bad colour, or if you could -not get any spinach, add some spinach extract (vegetable colouring, sold by -all grocers), only take care not to add too much, and make the soup look -like green paint. - -POTATO SOUP.--Potato soup is a very good method of using up the remains of -cold boiled potatoes. Slice up a large onion and fry it, without letting -it turn colour, with a little butter. Add a little water or stock to the -frying-pan, and let the onion boil till it is tender. Boil a quart or more -of milk separately with a couple of bay-leaves; rub the onion with the cold -potatoes through a wire sieve and add it to the milk. You can moisten the -potatoes in the sieve with the milk. When you have rubbed enough to make -the soup thick enough, let it boil up and add to every quart a saltspoonful -of thyme and a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley. This soup -should be rather thicker than most thick soups. - -When new potatoes first come into season, and especially when you have new -potatoes from your own garden, it will often be found that mixed with the -ordinary ones there are many potatoes no bigger than a toy marble, and -which are too small to be boiled and sent to table as an ordinary dish of -new potatoes. Reserve all these little dwarf potatoes, wash them, and -throw them for five or ten minutes into boiling water, drain them off and -throw them into the potato soup whole. Of course they must boil in the -soup till they are tender. A little cream is a great improvement to the -soup, and dried mint can be served with it, but is not absolutely -necessary. - - -PUMPKIN SOUP.--Take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized pumpkin, pare it, -remove the seeds, and cut the pumpkin into thin slices. Put these into a -stew-pan, with as much water or milk as will cover them, and boil gently -until they are reduced to a pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with -it a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, and stir it -over the fire until it boils. Thin it with some boiling milk which has -been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind, cinnamon, or orange-flower -water. It should be of the consistency of thick cream. Put toasted bread, -cut into the size of dice, at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Moisten the -bread-dice with a small quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little -while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, and serve very hot. Or -whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen, and pour the soup in over -them at the last moment. The liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for -a minute or two before it is poured over the eggs. - - -RHUBARB SOUP.--This is a sweet soup, and is simply juice from stewed -rhubarb sweetened and flavoured with lemon-peel and added either to cream -or beaten-up yolks of eggs and a little white wine. It is rarely met with -in this country. - - -RICE SOUP.--Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and wash it in several -waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Take an onion, the white -part of a head of celery, and a turnip, and cut them up and fry them in a -little butter. Add a quart of stock, or water, and boil these vegetables -until they are tender, and then rub them through a wire sieve. Boil the -rice in this soup till it is tender, flavour with pepper and salt, add a -little milk boiled separately, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with the -soup. - - -RICE SOUP A LA ROYALE.--Take half a pound of rice and wash it thoroughly in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Boil this rice in -some stock that has been strongly flavoured with onion, carrot and celery, -and strained off. When the rice is tender rub it through a wire sieve, -then add some boiling milk, in which two or three bay-leaves have been -boiled, and half a pint of cream, till the soup is a proper consistency. -Serve some egg force-meat balls with the soup. - - -SORREL SOUP.--Take some sorrel and wash it very thoroughly. Like spinach, -it requires a great deal of cleansing. Drain it off and place the sorrel -in a stew-pan, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon. When it has -dissolved and boiled for two or three minutes, let it drain on a sieve till -the water has run off. Next cut up a large onion and fry it in a little -butter, but do not brown the onion. Add a tablespoonful of flour to every -two ounces of butter used, also a teaspoonful of sugar, a little grated -nutmeg, also a little pepper and salt; add the sorrel to this, with a small -quantity of stock or water, then rub the whole through a wire sieve, and -serve. In some parts of the Continent vinegar is added, but it is not -adapted to English taste. - - -SAGO SOUP.--Take two ounces of sage, and having washed it very thoroughly, -put it on to boil in a quart of stock strongly flavoured with onion, -celery, and carrot, but which has been strained off. The sage must boil -until it becomes quite transparent and tender. Flavour the soup with a -little pepper and salt, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, about half a -teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice from a hard -lemon. - - -SEA-KALE SOUP.--This makes a very delicious soup, but it is somewhat rare. -Take a bundle of sea-kale, the whiter the better. Threw it into boiling -water, and let it boil for a few minutes, then take it out and drain it; -cut it up into small pieces and place it in a stew-pan with about two -ounces of butter, add a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg; stir it -up until the butter is thoroughly melted, but do not let it turn colour in -the slightest degree. Add some milk, and let it simmer very gently for -about half an hour. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, and add a small -quantity of cream. Serve with toasted or fried bread. - - -SCOTCH BROTH.--Take two or three ounces of pearl barley, wash it, and threw -it into boiling water, and let it boil for five or ten minutes. Then drain -it off and threw away the water. This is the only way to get pearl barley -perfectly clean. Then put on the barley in some stock or water, and let it -boil for four hours, till it is tender. Then add to it every kind of -vegetable that is in season, such as onion, celery, carrot, turnip, peas, -French beans, cut up into small pieces, hearts of lettuces cut up. Flavour -with pepper and salt and serve altogether. If possible add leeks to this -soup instead of onion, and just before serving the soup throw in a brimming -dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley to every quart of soup. A -pinch of thyme can also be added. - - -SPINACH SOUP.--Wash some young, freshly gathered spinach, cut it up with a -lettuce, and, if possible, a few leaves of sorrel, and throw them into -boiling water. Let them boil for five minutes, drain them off, and throw -them into cold water in order to keep their colour. Next take them out of -the water and squeeze all the moisture from them; then melt two ounces of -butter in a stew-pan, and add two tablespoonfuls of flour. When this is -thoroughly mixed together, and begins to frizzle, add the spinach, lettuce, -&c., and stir them round and round in the stew-pan till all is well mixed -together. Then add sufficient water or vegetable stock to moisten the -vegetables (add also a pinch of thyme), and let it boil. When it has -boiled for about twenty minutes add a quart of milk that has been boiled -separately, flavour with pepper and salt, and serve. - - -TAPIOCA SOUP.--Clear tapioca soup is made by thickening some ordinary clear -soup (_see_ CLEAR SOUP) with tapioca, allowing about two ounces of tapioca -to every quart. The tapioca should be put into the soup when it is cold, -and it is then far less likely to get lumpy. Tapioca can also be boiled in -a little strongly flavoured stock that has not been coloured, and then add -some boiling milk. Tapioca should be allowed to simmer for an hour and a -half. Of course, a little cream is a great improvement when the soup is -made with milk. - - -TOMATO SOUP.--This is a very delicate soup, and the endeavour should be to -try and retain the flavour of the tomato. Slice up an onion, or better -still two shallots, and fry them in a little butter, to which can be added -a broken-up, dried bay-leaf, a saltspoonful of thyme, and a very small -quantity of grated nutmeg, Fry these in a little batter till the onion -begins to turn colour, and then add a dozen ripe tomatoes from which the -pips have been squeezed. Moisten with a very little stock or water, and -let them stew till they are tender, then rub the whole through a wire -sieve. The consistency should be that of pea soup. Add a little butter to -soften the soup), and flavour with pepper and salt. - - -TURNIP SOUP.--Cut up some young turnips into small pieces, throw them into -boiling water, let them boil for a few minutes, take them out and strain -them, and put them into a stew-pan with about two ounces of fresh butter; -add a little salt and sugar. Let them stew in the butter (taking great -care that they don't turn colour) till they become soft, then add -sufficient boiling milk to moisten them, so that when rubbed through a wire -sieve the soup will be of the consistency of pea soup. Serve fried or -toasted bread with the soup. - - -VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP.--Take a large vegetable marrow, peel it, cut it -open, remove all the pips, and place it in a stew-pan with about two ounces -of fresh butter. Add a brimming teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a little -grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt. Keep turning the pieces of vegetable -marrow over in the butter, taking care that they do not at all turn colour. -After frying these pieces gently for five or ten minutes, add some boiling -milk, and let the whole simmer gently till it can be rubbed through a wire -sieve. Care must be taken not to get this soup too thin, as the vegetable -marrow itself contains a large quantity of water. Season with pepper and -salt, and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - -VEGETABLE SOUP.--(_See_ JARDINIERE SOUP.) - - -VERMICELLI SOUP.--Take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli and break it up -into small pieces, throw it into boiling water, and let it boil for five -minutes to get rid of the dirt and floury taste, then throw it immediately -into about a quart of clear soup. The vermicelli must be taken from the -boiling water and thrown into the boiling soup at once. If you were to -boil the vermicelli, strain it off, and put it by to add to the soup, you -would find it would stick together in one lump and be spoilt. - - -VERMICELLI SOUP, WHITE.--The vermicelli must be thrown into white soup -instead of clear soup. (_See_ WHITE SOUP.) - - -WHITE SOUP.--Just as in ordinary white soup the secret of success is to -have some strongly reduced stock, so in vegetarian white soup it is -essential that we should have a small quantity of liquid strongly -impregnated with the flavour of vegetables. For this purpose, place an -onion, the white part of a head of celery, and a slice of turnip in a -stew-pan with a little butter, and fry them till they are tender without -becoming brown. Now add sufficient water to enable you to boil them, and -let the water boil away till very little is left. Now rub this through a -wire sieve and add it to a quart of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves -have been boiled. Thicken the soup with a little white roux, add a -suspicion of nutmeg, and also, if possible, a little cream. Flavour with -pepper and salt. Serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -SAUCES. - - -SAUCE ALLEMANDE.--Take a pint of butter sauce--(_see_ BUTTER SAUCE)--and -add to it four yolks of eggs. In order to do this you must beat up the -yolks separately in a basin and add the hot butter sauce gradually, -otherwise the yolks of eggs will curdle and the sauce will be spoilt. In -fact, it must be treated exactly like custard, and in warming up the sauce -it is often a good plan, if you have no _bain-marie_, to put the sauce in a -jug and place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water. The sauce should be -flavoured with a little essence of mushroom if possible. Essence of -mushroom can be made from the trimmings of mushrooms, but mushroom ketchup -must not be used on account of the colour. Essence of mushroom can be made -by placing the trimmings of mushrooms in a saucepan, stewing them gently, -and extracting the flavour. The large black mushrooms, however, are not -suited. In addition to this essence of mushroom, a little lemon -juice--allowing the juice of half a lemon to every pint, should be added to -the sauce, as well as a slight suspicion of nutmeg, a pint of sauce -requiring about a dozen grates of a nutmeg. A little cream is a great -improvement to this sauce, but is not absolutely necessary. The sauce -should be perfectly smooth. Should it therefore contain any lumps, which -is not unfrequently the case in butter sauce, pass the sauce through a -sieve with a wooden spoon and then put it by in a _bain-marie_, or warm it -up in a jug as directed. - - -ALMOND SAUCE.--This is suitable for puddings. The simplest way of making -it is to make, say half a pint of butter sauce, or, cheaper, thicken half a -pint of milk with a little corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, and -then add a few drops of essence of almonds. About a dozen drops will be -sufficient if the essence is strong, but essence of almonds varies greatly -in strength. The sauce can be coloured pink with a few drops of cochineal. - - -ALMOND SAUCE (CLEAR).--Thicken half a pint of water with a little -corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, add a dozen drops of essence of -almonds and a few drops of cochineal to colour it pink. The sauce is very -suitable to pour over custard puddings made in a basin or cup and turned -out on to a dish. It is also very cheap. - - -APPLE SAUCE.--Peel say a dozen apples; cut them into quarters; and be very -careful in removing all the core, as many a child is choked through -carelessness in this respect. Stew the apples in a little water till they -become a pulp, placing with them half a dozen cloves and half a dozen -strips of the yellow part only of the outside of the rind of a _fresh_ -lemon of the size and thickness of the thumb-nail; sweeten with brown -sugar, that known as Porto Rico being the most economical. Add a small -piece of butter before serving. - - -ARROWROOT SAUCE.--Thicken half a pint of water with about a dessertspoonful -of arrowroot and sweeten it with white sugar. The sauce can be flavoured -by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or with a few -drops of essence of vanilla, or with the addition of a little sherry or -spirit, the best spirit being rum. This sauce can, of course, be coloured -pink with cochineal. - - -ARTICHOKE SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as if you were making artichoke soup, -only make the puree thicker by using less liquid. A simple artichoke sauce -can be made by boiling down a few Jerusalem artichokes to a pulp, rubbing -them through a wire sieve, and flavouring with pepper and salt. - - -ASPARAGUS SAUCE.--Boil a bundle of asparagus and rub all the green, tender -part through a wire sieve, till it is a thick pulp, flavour with a little -pepper and salt, add a small piece of butter, and a little spinach extract -(vegetable colouring sold in bottles) in order to give it a good colour. - - -BREAD SAUCE.--Take some dry crumb of bread, and rub through a wire sieve. -The simplest plan is to turn the wire sieve upside down on a large sheet of -paper. The bread must be stale, and stale pieces can be put by for this -purpose. Next take, say, a pint of milk, and let it boil; then throw in -the bread-crumbs and let them _boil_ in the milk. This is the secret of -good bread sauce. Add a dozen peppercorns, and place a whole onion in the -saucepan containing the bread and milk, and place the saucepan beside the -fire in order to allow the bread-crumbs to swell. It will be found that -though at starting the bread sauce was quite thin and milky, yet after a -time it becomes thick. Take out the onion, add a little piece of butter, -stir it up, and serve. A little cream is a great improvement, but is not -absolutely necessary. This sauce, though very simple, requires care: Many -persons will probably recollect having met with bread sauce which in -appearance resembled a poultice too much to be agreeable either to the -palate or the eye. - - -BUTTER SAUCE.--This is the most important of all the sauces with which we -have to deal. The great mistake made by the vast majority of women cooks -is that they will use milk. They thicken a pint of milk with a little -butter and flour, and then call it melted butter, and, as a rule, send to -table enough for twenty persons when only two or three are dining. As -butter sauce will be served with the majority of vegetables, we would call -the attention of vegetarians to the fact that, as a rule, ordinary -cookery-books take for granted that vegetables will be served with the -meat. When therefore vegetables are served separately, and are intended to -be eaten with bread as a course by themselves, some alteration must be made -in the method of serving them. Again, vegetarians should bear in mind -that, except in cases where poverty necessitates rigid economy, a certain -amount of butter may be considered almost a necessity, should the meal be -wished to be both wholesome and nourishing. Francatelli, who was -_chef-de-cuisine_ to the Earl of Chesterfield, and was also chief cook to -the Queen and _chef_ at the Reform Club, and afterwards manager of the -Freemasons' Tavern, in writing on this subject observes:--"Butter sauce, -or, as it is more absurdly called, melted butter, is the foundation of the -whole of the following sauces, and requires very great care in its -preparation. Though simple, it is nevertheless a very useful and agreeable -sauce when properly made. So far from this being usually the case, it is -too generally left to assistants to prepare, as an insignificant matter; -the result is therefore seldom satisfactory. When a large quantity of -butter sauce is required, put four ounces of fresh butter into a -middle-sized stew-pan, with some grated nutmeg and minionette pepper; to -these add four ounces of sifted flour, knead the whole well together, and -moisten with a pint of cold spring water; stir the sauce on the fire till -it boils, and after having kept it gently boiling for twenty minutes -(observing that it be not thicker than the consistency of common white -sauce), proceed to mix in one pound and a half of sweet fresh butter, -taking care to stir the sauce quickly the whole time of the operation. -Should it appear to turn oily, add now and then a spoonful of cold spring -water; finish with the juice of half a lemon, and salt to palate; then pass -the sauce through a tammy into a large _bain-marie_ for use." - -We have quoted the recipe of the late M. Francatelli in full, as we believe -it is necessary to refer to some very great authority in order to knock out -the prejudice from the minds of many who think that they not only can -themselves cook, but teach others, but who are bound in the chains of -prejudice and tradition which, too often, in the most simple recipes, lead -them to follow in the footsteps of their grandmothers. - -Real butter sauce can be made as follows, on a small scale:--Take a -claret-glass of water, and about a small teaspoonful of flour mixed with -rather more than the same quantity of butter, and mix this in the water -over the fire till it is of the consistency of very thin gruel. If it is -thicker than this, add a little more water. Now take any quantity of -butter, and gradually dissolve as much as you can in this thin gruel, -adding say half an ounce at a time, till the sauce becomes a rich oily -compound. After a time, if you add too much butter, the sauce will curdle -and turn oily, as described by Francatelli. - -Of course, in everyday life it is not necessary to have the butter sauce so -rich, still it is simply ridiculous to thicken a pint of milk, or a pint of -water, with a little butter and flour, and then call it butter sauce or -melted butter. Suppose we have a large white cabbage, like those met with -in the West of England, and we are going to make a meal off it in -conjunction with plenty of bread. Suppose the cabbage is sufficiently -large for six persons, surely half a pound of butter is not an excessive -quantity to use in making butter sauce for the purpose. Yet prejudice is -such that if we use half a pound of butter for the butter sauce, -housekeepers consider it extravagant. On the other hand, if the butter -were placed on the table, and the six persons helped themselves, and ate -bread and butter with the cabbage and finished the half-pound, it would not -be considered extravagant. Of course, this is simply prejudice. - -A simple way of making melted butter is as follows:--Take half a pint of -cold water, put it in a saucepan, and add sufficient white roux, or butter -and flour mixed, till it is of the consistency of thin gruel. Now -gradually dissolve in this, adding a little piece at a time, as much butter -as you can afford; add a suspicion of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and -a few drops of lemon-juice from a fresh lemon, if you have one in use. - - -BUTTER, MELTED, OR OILED BUTTER.--Melted butter, properly speaking, is -rarely met with in this country, but is a common everyday sauce on the -Continent. It is simply what it says. A piece of butter is placed in a -little sauce-boat and placed in the oven till the butter runs to oil, and -then sent to table with all kinds of fish with which in our present work we -have nothing to do; but it is also sent to table with all kinds of -vegetables, such as French artichokes, &c.; sometimes a spoonful of French -capers is added to the oiled butter. - - -BUTTER, BLACK, OR BEURRE NOIR.--Take two ounces of butter, and dissolve it -in a frying-pan, and let it frizzle till the butter turns a brown colour; -then add a tablespoonful of French vinegar, a teaspoonful of chopped -capers, a teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, and a teaspoonful of mushroom -ketchup. Let it remain on the fire till the acidity of the vinegar is -removed by evaporation. This is a very delicious sauce, and can be served -with Jerusalem artichokes boiled whole, fried eggs, &c. - - -CAPER SAUCE.--Make some butter sauce, and to every half-pint of sauce add a -dessertspoonful of chopped French capers. If the sauce is liked sharp, add -some of the vinegar from the bottle of capers. - - -CARROT SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in carrot soup, using less liquid. - - -CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in cauliflower soup, using less -liquid. - - -CELERY SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in celery soup, only using less liquid. -The thicker this sauce is the better. - - -CHERRY SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries, and put them -into a small stew-pan, with a dessertspoonful of black currant jelly, a -small stick of cinnamon, with half a dozen cloves, and add rather less than -half a pint of water, and let the whole simmer gently for about ten -minutes, when you must take out the spices and send the rest to table. - -N.B.--If wine is not objected to in cooking, it is a very good plan to add -claret instead of water. - - -CHESTNUT SAUCE.--Proceed as in making chestnut soup, using as little liquid -as possible, so as to make the sauce thick. - - -CINNAMON SAUCE.--The simplest way of making cinnamon sauce is to sweeten -some butter sauce with some white sugar, and then add a few drops of -essence of cinnamon. The sauce can be coloured pink with a little -cochineal. A little wine is an improvement. The sauce can also be made by -breaking up and boiling a stick of cinnamon in some water, and then using -the water to make some butter sauce. - - -COCOANUT SAUCE.--Grate the white, part of a cocoanut very finely, and boil -it till tender in a very small quantity of water; add about an equal -quantity of white sugar as there was cocoa-nut; mix in either the yolk of -an egg or a tablespoonful of cream. A little lemon juice is an -improvement. - - -CUCUMBER SAUCE.--Take two or three small cucumbers, peel them, slice them, -and place them in a dish with a little salt, which has the effect of -extracting the water. Now drain the pieces off and strain then in a cloth, -to extract as much moisture as possible. Put then in a frying-pan with a -little butter; fry them very gently, till they begin to turn colour, then -nib them through a wire sieve; moisten the pulp with a little butter sauce; -add a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg and vinegar to taste. - - -CURRANT SAUCE (RED).--Put a couple of tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly -into a small stew-pan, with half a dozen cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, -and the rind of an orange. Moisten with a little water, or still better, a -little claret, strain it off, and add the juice of the orange. - - -CURRANT SAUCE (BLACK).--Proceed exactly as in the above recipe, -substituting black currant jelly for red. - - -CURRY SAUCE.--Take six large onions, peel them, cut them up into small -pieces, and fry them in a frying-pan in about two ounces of butter. As -soon as the onions begin to change colour, take a small carrot and cut it -up into little piece; and a sour apple. When the onions, etc., are fried a -nice brown, add about a pint of vegetable stock or water and let the whole -simmer till the vegetables are quite tender, then add a tea-spoonful of -Captain White's curry paste and a dessertspoonful of curry powder; now rub -the whole through a wire sieve, and take care that all the vegetables go -through. It is rather troublesome, but will repay you, as good curry sauce -cannot be made without. The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick owing -to the vegetables being rubbed through the wire sieve. Should therefore -the onions be small, less water or stock had better be added. Curry sauce -could be thickened with a little brown roux, but it takes away from the -flavour of the curry. A few bay-leaves may be added to the sauce and -served up whole in whatever is curried. For instance, if we have a dish of -curried rice, half a dozen or more bay-leaves could be added to the sauce -and served up with the rice. - -There are many varieties of curry. In India fresh mangoes take the part of -our sour apples. Some persons add grated cocoanut to curry, and it is well -worth a trial, although on the P. and O. boats the Indian curry-cook mixes -the curry fresh every day and uses cocoanut oil for the purpose. In some -parts of India it is customary to serve up whole chillies in the curry, but -this would be better adapted to a stomach suffering from the effects of -brandy-pawnee than to the simple taste of the vegetarian. - - -DUTCH SAUCE.--This is very similar to Allemande Sauce. Take half a pint of -good butter sauce, make it thoroughly hot, add two yolks of eggs, taking -care that they do not curdle, a little pepper and salt, a suspicion of -nutmeg, and about a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. Some persons -instead of using tarragon vinegar add a little lemon juice, say the half of -a fresh lemon to this quantity, and half a dozen fresh tarragon leaves, -blanched--that is, dipped for a few seconds in boiling water--and then -chopped very fine. The tarragon vinegar is much the simplest, as it is -very difficult to get fresh tarragon leaves unless one has a good garden or -lives near Covent Garden Market. - - -DUTCH SAUCE (GREEN).--Proceed exactly as above and colour the sauce a -bright green with a little spinach extract (vegetable colouring, sold in -bottles by all grocers). - - -EGG SAUCE.--Take half a dozen eggs, put them in a saucepan with sufficient -cold water to cover them. Put them on the fire and let them boil for ten -minutes after the water boils. Take them out and put them into cold water -and let them stand for ten minutes, when the shells can be removed; then -cut up the six hard-boiled eggs into little pieces, add sufficient butter -sauce to moisten them, make the whole hot, and serve. - -N.B.--Inexperienced cooks often think that hard-boiled eggs are bad when -they are not, owing to their often having a tinge of green colour round the -outside of the yolk and to their emitting a peculiar smell when the shells -are first removed while hot All eggs contain a small quantity of -sulphuretted hydrogen. - - -FENNEL SAUCE.--Blanch and chop up sufficient fennel to colour half a pint -of butter sauce a bright green, add a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice, -and serve. - - -GERMAN SWEET SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries, a small -saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a few strips of lemon peel, and put -them in a small saucepan with about a quarter of a pint of water, or still -better, claret, if wine is allowed, and let them simmer on the fire gently -for about half an hour; then rub the cherries through a wire sieve with the -liquor--(of course, the lemon peel and cloves will not rub through)--and -add this to a quarter of a pound of stewed prunes. This is a very popular -sauce abroad. - - -GINGER SAUCE.--The simplest way of making ginger sauce is to sweeten half a -pint of butter sauce and then add a few drops of essence of ginger. A -richer ginger sauce can be made by taking two or three tablespoonfuls of -preserved ginger and two or three tablespoonfuls of the syrup in which they -are preserved, rubbing this through a wire sieve, adding about an equal -quantity of butter sauce, making the whole hot in a saucepan. - - -GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.--Pick and then stew some green gooseberries, just -moistening the stewpan with a little water to prevent them burning. Rub -the whole through a hair sieve in order to avoid having any pips in the -sauce. Sweeten with a little Demerara sugar, as Porto Rico would be too -dark in colour. Colour the sauce a bright green with a little spinach -extract. - -N.B.--It is a mistake to add cream to gooseberry sauce, which is distinct -altogether from gooseberry fool. In Germany, vinegar is added to this -sauce and it is served with meat. - - -HORSE-RADISH SAUCE.--Horse-radish sauce is made, properly speaking, by -mixing grated horse-radish with cream, vinegar, sugar, made mustard, and a -little pepper and salt. A very simple method of making this sauce is to -substitute tinned Swiss milk for the cream and sugar. It is equally nice, -more economical, and possesses this great advantage: a few tins of Swiss -milk can always be kept in the store cupboard, whereas there is -considerable difficulty, especially in all large towns, in obtaining cream -without giving twenty-four hours' notice, and the result even then is not -always satisfactory. Horse-radish sauce is very delicious, and its -thickness should be entirely dependent upon the amount of grated -horse-radish. Sticks of horse-radish vary so very much in size that we -will say, grate sufficient to fill a teacup, throw this into a sauce -tureen, mix a dessertspoonful of Swiss milk with a tablespoonful of vinegar -and about two tablespoonfuls of milk and a teaspoonful of made mustard, add -this to the horse-radish, and, if necessary, sufficient milk to make the -whole of the consistency of bread sauce. As the sauce is very hot, as a -rule it is best not to add any pepper, which can be easily added afterwards -by those who like it. - - -INDIAN PICKLE SAUCE.--Chop up two or three tablespoonfuls of Indian -pickles, place them in a frying-pan with a quarter of a pint of water, and -if the pickles are sour as well as hot, let them simmer some little time so -as to get rid of the vinegar by evaporation. Then thicken the whole with -some brown roux till the sauce is as thick as pea soup. The vinegar should -be got rid of as much as possible. This is a very appetising dish with -boiled rice and Parmesan cheese. - - -ITALIAN SAUCE.--This is an old-fashioned recipe taken from a book written -in French, and published more than fifty years ago. Put into a saucepan a -little parsley, a shallot, some mushrooms and truffles, chopped very -finely, with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. Let all boil -gently for half an hour, add a spoonful of oil, and serve. - - -MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.--Maitre d'hotel sauce is simply a lump of butter -mixed with some chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and lemon juice. - -Hot sauce is often called Maitre d'hotel when chopped blanched parsley and -lemon juice is added to a little white sauce. - - -MANGO CHUTNEY SAUCE.--Take a couple of tablespoonfuls of Mango Chutney, -moisten it with two or three tablespoonfuls of butter sauce, rub the whole -through a wire sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Or the chutney can be -simply chopped up fine and added to the butter sauce without rubbing -through the wire sieve. - - -MAYONNAISE SAUCE.--This is the most delicious of all cold sauces. It is -composed entirely of raw yolk of egg and oil, flavoured with a dash of -vinegar. When made properly it should be of the consistency of butter in -summer time. Many women cooks labour under the delusion that it requires -the addition of cream. Mayonnaise sauce is made as follows:--Break an egg -and separate the yolk from the white, and place the yolk at the bottom of a -large basin. Next take a bottle of oil, which must be cool but bright; if -the oil is cloudy, as it often is in cold weather, you cannot make the -sauce. Nor can you if the oil has been kept in a warm place. Now proceed -to let the oil drop, drop by drop, on the yolk of egg, and with a silver -fork, or still better, a wooden one, beat the yolk of egg and oil quickly -together. Continue to drop the oil, taking care that only a few drops drop -at a time, especially at starting, and continue to beat the mixture lightly -and quickly. Gradually the yolk of egg and oil will begin to get thick, -first of all like custard. When this is the case a little more oil may be -added at a time, but never more than a teaspoonful. As more oil is added, -and the beating continues, the sauce gets thicker and thicker, till it is -nearly as thick as butter in summer time. When it arrives at this stage no -more oil should be added. A little tarragon vinegar may be added at the -finish, or a little lemon juice. This makes the sauce whiter in colour. -One yolk of egg will take a teacupful of oil. It is best to add pepper and -salt when the salad is mixed. Mayonnaise sauce is by far the best sauce -for lettuce salad. It will keep a day, but should be kept in a cool place, -and the basin should be covered over with a moist cloth. - - -MAYONNAISE SAUCE, GREEN.--Make some mayonnaise sauce as above, and colour -it with some spinach colouring (vegetable colouring, sold in bottles by all -grocers). - - -MINT SAUCE.--Take plenty of fresh mint leaves, as the secret of good mint -sauce is to have plenty of mint. Chop up sufficient mint to fill a teacup, -put this at the bottom of a sauce tureen, pour sufficient boiling water on -the mint to thoroughly moisten it, and add a tablespoonful of brown sugar, -which dissolves best when the water is hot. Press the mint with a -tablespoon to extract the flavour, let it stand till it is quite cold, and -then add three or four tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar, stir it up, and the -sauce is ready. The quantity of vinegar added is purely a matter of taste, -but a teaspoonful of chopped mint floating in half a pint of vinegar is no -more mint sauce than dipping a mutton chop in a quart of boiling water -would be soup in ordinary cookery. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, WHITE.--Mushroom sauce can be made from fresh mushrooms or -tinned mushrooms. When made from fresh they must be small button -mushrooms, and not those that are black underneath. They must be peeled, -cut small, and have a little lemon juice squeezed over them to prevent them -turning colour, or they had still better be thrown into lemon juice and -water. They must now be fried in a frying-pan with a small quantity of -butter till they are tender, and then added to a little thickened milk, or -still better, cream. When made from tinned mushrooms, simply chop up the -mushrooms, reserving the liquor, then add a little cream and thicken with a -little white roux. A little pepper and salt should be added in both cases. -Instead of using either milk or cream, you can use a small quantity of -sauce Allemande. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, BROWN.--Proceed exactly as above with regard to the -mushrooms, both fresh and tinned, only instead of adding milk, cream, or -Allemande sauce, add a little stock or water, and then thicken the sauce -with a little brown roux. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, PUREE.--Mushroom sauce, both white and brown, is sometimes -served as a puree. It is simply either of the above sauces rubbed through -a wire sieve. - - -MUSTARD SAUCE.--Make, say, half a pint of good butter sauce, add to this a -tablespoonful of French mustard and a tablespoonful of made English -mustard. Stir this into the sauce, make it hot, and serve. - -N.B.--French mustard is sold ready-made in jars, and is flavoured with -tarragon, capers, ravigotte, &c. - - -ONION SAUCE.--Take half a dozen large onions, peel them and boil them in a -little salted water till they are tender. Then take them out and chop them -up fine, and put them in a stew-pan with a little milk. Thicken the sauce -with a little butter and flour, or white roux, and season with pepper and -salt. A very nice mild onion sauce is made by using Spanish onions. - - -ONION SAUCE, BROWN.--Slice up half a dozen good-sized onions; put them in a -frying-pan and fry them in a little butter till they begin to get brown, -but be careful not to burn them, and should there be a few black pieces in -the frying-pan, remove them; now chop up the onions, not too finely, and -put them in a saucepan with a very little stock or water, let them simmer -till they are tender, and then thicken the sauce with a little brown roux, -and flavour with pepper and salt. - - -ORANGE CREAM SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.--Take a large ripe orange and rub a dozen -lumps of sugar on the outside of the rind and dissolve these in a small -quantity of butter sauce, and add the juice of the orange, strained. Now -add a little cream, or half a pint of milk that has been boiled separately, -in which case the sauce will want thickening with a little white roux. -Rubbing the sugar on the outside of the rind of the orange gives a very -strong orange flavour indeed--far more than the juice of almost any number -of oranges would produce, so care must be taken not to overdo it. This is -what French cooks call zest of orange. - - -PARSLEY SAUCE.--Blanch and chop up sufficient parsley to make a brimming -tablespoonful when chopped. Add this to half a pint of butter sauce, with -a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice. It is very important to blanch the -parsley, _i.e._, throw it into a little boiling water before chopping. - - -PINE-APPLE SAUCE.--Take a pine-apple, peel it, cut it up into little pieces -on a dish, taking care not to lose any of the juice, place it in a saucepan -with a very little water, just sufficient to cover the pine-apple; let it -simmer gently until it is tender, and then add sufficient white sugar to -make the liquid almost a syrup; a teaspoonful of corn-flour, made smooth in -a little cold water, can be added; but the sauce should be of the -consistency of syrup, and the corn-flour does away with the difficulty of -making it too sickly. The juice of half a lemon may be added, and is, -perhaps, an improvement. - - -PLUM SAUCE.--When made from ripe plums, take, say, a pound, and place them -in a stew-pan with a very little water and a quarter of a pound of sugar. -Take out the stones and crack them. Throw the kernels into boiling water -so that you can rub off the skin, and add them to the sauce after you have -rubbed the stewed plums through a wire sieve. - -To make plum sauce from dried French plums proceed exactly as in making -Prune Sauce. (_See_ PRUNE SAUCE.) - - -POIVRADE SAUCE.--Take an onion, a very small head of celery, and a carrot, -and cut them into little pieces, and put them into a frying-pan with a -little butter, a saltspoonful of thyme, one or two dried bay-leaves, and -about a quarter of a grated nutmeg and two or three sprigs of parsley. Fry -these till they turn a light-brown colour, then add a little stock or -water, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Let this boil in the frying-pan -for about half an hour, till the liquid is reduced in quantity. Thicken it -with a little brown roux, and rub it through a wire sieve, make it hot, and -serve. If wine is allowed, the addition of a little sherry is a great -improvement to this sauce. - - -PRUNE SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of prunes, put them in a stew-pan -with just sufficient water to cover them, and let them stew. Put in one or -two strips of lemon-peel to stew with them, add a teaspoonful of brown -sugar, about sufficient powdered cinnamon to cover a shilling, and the -juice of half a lemon. When the prunes are quite tender take out the strip -of lemon-peel and stones, rub the whole through a wire sieve, and serve. - - -RADISH SAUCE.--Take a few bunches of radishes and grate them, and mix this -grated radish with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. You can colour -the sauce red by adding a little beetroot, and make the sauce hot by adding -a little grated horse-radish. This cold sauce is exceedingly nice with -cheese. These _grated_ radishes are more digestible than radishes served -whole. - - -RASPBERRY SAUCE.--This sauce is simply stewed raspberries rubbed through a -wire sieve and sweetened. Some red-currant juice should be added to give -it a colour. It is very nice made hot and then added to one or two -beaten-up eggs and poured over any plain puddings, such as boiled rice, &c. - - -RATAFIA SAUCE.--Add a few drops of essence of ratafia to some sweetened -arrowroot or to some butter sauce. The sauce can be coloured pink with a -few drops of cochineal. - - -RAVIGOTTE SAUCE.--Put a tablespoonful each of Harvey's sauce, tarragon -vinegar, and chilli vinegar into a small saucepan, and let it boil till it -is reduced to almost one-half in quantity, in order to get rid of the -acidity. Now add about half a pint of butter sauce, and throw in a -tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley. - - -ROBERT SAUCE.--Take a couple of onions, cut them up into small pieces, and -fry them with about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan. Drain off the -butter and add a couple of tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the frying-pan, and -let it simmer for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour so as to get rid of -the acidity of the vinegar. Now add a very little stock or water, stir it -tip, and thicken the sauce with a little brown roux. Add a dessertspoonful -of fresh mustard and a little pepper and salt. - - -SOUBISE SAUCE.--Sauce Soubise is simply white onion sauce, rubbed through a -wire sieve, and a little cream added. It is more delicate than ordinary -onion sauce, and is often served in France with roast pheasant. It owes -its name to a famous French general. - - -SORREL SAUCE.--Put about a quart of fresh green sorrel leaves (after being -thoroughly washed) into an enamelled saucepan, with a little fresh butter, -and let the sorrel stew till it is tender. Rub this through a wire sieve, -add a little powdered sugar and a little lemon juice; a little cream may be -added, but is not absolutely essential. - - -SWEET SAUCE.--Take half a pint of butter sauce, and sweeten it with a -little sugar. It can be flavoured by rubbing a little sugar on the outside -of a lemon, or with vanilla, essence of almonds, or any kind of sweet -essence. A little wine, brandy, or, still better, rum, is a great -improvement. Some persons add cream. - - -TARRAGON SAUCE.--Blanch a dozen tarragon leaves, chop them up, and stew -them in any kind of stock thickened with brown roux. - - -TARTAR SAUCE.--Take two or three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, and -add to this a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, as well as -a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to -the first joint, chopped very fine, and a brimming teaspoonful of French -mustard. Mix the whole well together. - -N.B.--A teaspoonful of anchovy sauce would be a great improvement were -anchovy sauce allowed in vegetarian cookery. - -TOMATO SAUCE.--The great secret of tomato sauce is to taste nothing but the -tomato. Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut off the stalks, and squeeze out -the pips, and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter, and let them -stew till they are tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. -This, in our opinion, is the best tomato sauce that can be made, the only -seasoning being a little pepper and salt. This wholesome and delicious -sauce can, however, be spoilt in a variety of ways--by the addition of -mace, cloves, shallots, onions, thyme, &c. It can also be made very -unwholesome by the addition of a quantity of vinegar. - -TRUFFLE SAUCE.--This sauce is very expensive if made from whole fresh -truffles, but can be made more cheaply if you can obtain some truffle chips -or parings. These must be stewed in a little stock, thickened with brown -roux, and then rubbed through a wire sieve, a little sherry being a great -improvement if wine is allowed. - - -VANILLA SAUCE.--Add some essence of vanilla to some sweetened butter sauce. - - -WHITE SAUCE.--White sauce is sometimes required for vegetables and -sometimes for puddings. In the former case some good-flavoured, uncoloured -stock must be thickened with white roux, and then have sufficient cream -added to it to make the sauce a pure white. - -When white sauce is wanted for puddings, sufficient butter sauce must be -sweetened, and very slightly flavoured with nutmeg or almond, and then an -equal quantity of cream added to it to make it a pure white. White sauce -should not have with it any strong predominant flavour. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -SAVOURY RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL, &c. - -RICE. - - -Probably all persons will admit that rice is a too much neglected form of -food in England. When we remember how small a quantity of rice weekly is -found sufficient to keep alive millions and millions of our -fellow-creatures in the East, it seems to be a matter of regret that rice -as an article of food is not more used by the thousands and thousands of -our fellow creatures in the East--not in the ordinary acceptation of the -term, but East of Temple Bar. Rice is cheap, nourishing, easily cooked, -and equally easily digested, yet that monster, custom, seems to step in and -prevent the bulk of the poor availing themselves of this light and -nourishing food solely for the reason that, as their grandfathers and -grandmothers did not eat rice before them, they do not see any reason why -they should, like the Irishman who objected to have his feet washed on the -same ground. Of the different kinds of rice Carolina is the best, the -largest, and the most expensive. Patna rice is almost as good; the grains -are long, small, and white, and it is the best rice for curry. Madras rice -is the cheapest. - -Rice, pure and simple, is the food most suited for hot climates and where a -natural indolence of disposition results in one's day's work of an ordinary -Englishman being divided among twenty people. As we move towards more -temperate zones it will be found the universal custom to qualify it by -mixing it with some other substance; thus, though rice is largely eaten in -Italy, it is almost invariably used in conjunction with Parmesan cheese. -Rice contains no flesh-forming properties whatever, as it contains no -nitrogen; and with all due respect to vegetarians, it will be found that as -we recede from the Equator and advance towards the Poles our food must of -necessity vary with the latitude, and, whereas we may start on a diet of -rice, we shall be forced, sooner or later, to depend upon a diet of -pemmican, or food of a similar nature. - - -RICE, TO BOIL.--The best method of boiling rice is, at any rate, a much -disputed point, if not an open question. There are as many ways almost of -boiling rice as dressing a salad, and each one thinks his own way the best. -We will mention a few of the most simple, and will illustrate it by boiling -a small quantity that can be contained in a teacup. Of course, boiling -rice is very much simplified if you want some rice-water as well as rice -itself. Rice-water contains a great deal of nourishment, a fact which is -well illustrated by the well-known story of the black troops who served in -India under Clive, who, at the siege of Arcot, told Clive, when they were -short of provisions, that the water in which the rice was boiled would be -sufficient for them, while the more substantial grain could be preserved -for the European troops. Take a teacupful of rice and wash the rice in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Now throw the rice -into boiling water, say a quart; let the rice boil gently till it is -tender, strain off the rice and reserve the rice-water for other purposes. -The time rice will take to boil treated this way would be probably about -twenty minutes, but this time would vary slightly with the quality and size -of the rice. - - * * * * * - -Many years ago we watched a black man boiling rice on board a P. and O. -boat (the _Mizapore_); he proceeded as follows:--He boiled the rice for -about ten minutes, or perhaps a minute or two longer, strained it off in a -sieve, and then washed the rice with cold water, and then put the rice back -in the stew-pan to once more get hot and swell. Of course, this rice was -being boiled for curry, and certainly the result was that each grain was -beautifully separated from every other grain. We do not think, however, -that this method of boiling rice is customary on all the boats of the P. -and O. Company. Of course this method of boiling rice was somewhat -wasteful. - -By far the most economical method of boiling rice is as follows; and we -would recommend it to all who are in the habit of practising economy on the -grounds of either duty or necessity. Wash thoroughly, as before, a -teacupful of rice and put it in a small stew-pan or saucepan with two -breakfastcupfuls of water, bring this to a boil and let it boil for ten -minutes, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and let the rice -soak and swell for about twenty minutes. After a little time, you can put -a cloth on the top of the saucepan to absorb the steam, similar to the way -you treat potatoes after having strained off the water. - -In boiling rice we must remember that there are two ways in which rice is -served. One is as a meal in itself, the other as an accompaniment to some -other kind of food. It will be found in Italy and Turkey and in the East -generally, where rice forms, so to speak, the staff of life, that it is not -cooked so soft and tender as it is in England, where it is generally served -with something else. In fact, each grain of rice may be said to resemble -an Irish potato, inasmuch as it has a heart in it. In Ireland potatoes, as -a rule, are not cooked so much as they are in most parts of England. -Probably the reason of this is, in most cases, that experience has taught -people that there is more stay in rice and potatoes when served in a state -that English people would call "under-done." There is no doubt that the -waste throughout the length and breadth of this prosperous land through -over-cooking is something appalling. - -Another very good method of boiling rice is the American style. Take a -good-sized stew-pan or saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. Put a cloth -over the saucepan, after first pouring in, say, a pint of water; push down -the cloth, keeping it tight, so as to make a well, but do not let the cloth -reach the water; wash the rice as before, and put on the lid tight. Of -course, with the cloth the lid will fit very tight indeed. Now put the -saucepan on the fire and make the water boil continuously. By these means -you steam the rice till it is tender and lose none of the nourishment. We -can always learn from America. - - -RISOTTO A LA MILANNAISE.--Take a teacupful of rice, wash it thoroughly and -dry it. Chop up a small onion and put it in the bottom of a small stew-pan -and fry the onion to a light-brown colour. Now add the dry rice, and stir -this up with the onion and butter till the rice also is fried of a nice -light-brown colour. Now add two breakfastcupfuls of stock or water and a -pinch of powdered saffron, about sufficient to cover a threepenny-piece; -let the rice boil for ten or eleven minutes, move the saucepan to the side -of the fire and let it stand for twenty minutes or half an hour till it has -absorbed all the stock or water. Now mix in a couple of tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese. Flavour with a little pepper and salt, and serve -the whole very hot. - - -RICE WITH CABBAGE AND CHEESE.--Wash some rice and let it soak in some hot -water, with a cabbage sliced up, for about an hour; then strain it off and -put the rice and cabbage in a stew-pan with some butter, a little pepper -and salt, and about a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Toss these about in the -butter for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour over the fire, but do not -let them turn colour; then add a small quantity of water or stock, let it -stew till it is tender, and then serve it very hot with some grated cheese -sprinkled over the top. - -N.B.--The end of cheese rind can be utilised with this dish. - - -RICE WITH CHEESE.--Wash some rice and then boil it for ten or eleven -minutes in some milk, and let it stand till it has soaked up all the milk. -The proportion generally is, as we have said before, a teacupful of rice to -two breakfastcupfuls of milk; but as we shall want the rice rather moist on -the present occasion, we must allow a little more milk. Now mix in some -grated cheese and a little pepper and salt, place the mixture in a -pie-dish, and cover the top with grated cheese, and place the pie-dish in -the oven and bake till the top is nicely browned, and then serve. - -Some cooks add a good spoonful of made mustard to the mixture. Some -persons prefer it and some don't; it is therefore best to serve some made -mustard with the rice and cheese at table. Unless the mixture was fairly -moist before it was put into the pie-dish, it would dry up in the oven and -become uneatable. - - -RICE, CURRIED.--Boil a teacupful of well-washed rice in two -breakfastcupfuls of water, and let the rice absorb all the water; put a -cloth in the saucepan, and stir up the rice occasionally with a fork till -the grains become dry and separate easily the one from the other. Now mix -it up with some curry sauce, make the whole hot, and send it to table with -a few whole bay-leaves mixed in with the rice. Only sufficient curry sauce -should be added to moisten the rice--it must not be rice swimming in gravy; -or you can make a well in the middle of the boiled rice and pour the curry -sauce into this. - - -RICE BORDERS (CASSEROLES).--Casseroles, or rice borders, form a very -handsome dish. It consists of a large border made of rice, the outside of -which can be ornamented and the centre of which can be filled with a -macedoine (_i.e._, a mixture) of fruit or vegetables. As you are probably -aware, grocers have in their shop-windows small tins with copper labels, on -which the word is printed "Macedoine." This tin contains a mixture of -cut-up, cooked vegetables. These are very useful to have in the house, as -a nice dish can be served at a few moments' notice. Mixed fruits are also -sold in bottles under the name of Macedoine of Fruits. Of course, both -vegetables and fruit can be prepared at home much cheaper from fresh fruit -and vegetables, but this requires time and forethought. These mixtures are -very much improved in appearance when served in a handsomely made rice -border, and as the border is eaten with the vegetables and fruit there is -no want of economy in the recipe. Suppose we are going to make a rice -border. Take a pound of rice and wash it carefully if we are going to fill -it with fruit we must boil it in sweetened milk, but if we are going to -fill it with vegetables we must boil it in vegetable stock or water. Add, -as the case may be, sufficient liquid to boil the rice till it is -thoroughly tender and soft. Now place it in a large bowl, and with a -wooden spoon mash it till it becomes a sort of firm, compact paste; then -take it out and roll it into the shape of a cannon-ball, and having done -this, flatten it till it becomes of the shape of the cheeses one meets with -in Holland--flat top and bottom, with rounded edges. You can now ornament -the outside by making it resemble a fluted mould of jelly. The best way of -doing this is to cut a carrot in half and scoop out part of the inside with -a cheese-scoop, so that the width of the part where it is scooped is about -the same as the two flat sides. Make the outside of the rice perfectly -smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Butter the carrot mould to prevent -it sticking, and press this gently on the outside of the shape of rice till -it resembles the outside of a column in Gothic architecture, then place it -in the oven and let it bake till it is firm and dry. Then scoop out the -centre and put it back for a short time. If the border is going to be used -for a macedoine of vegetables, beat up a yolk of egg and paint the outside -of the casserole with this, and then it will bake a nice golden-brown -colour. Now take it out of the oven and fill it accordingly. It can be -served hot or cold, or it can be filled with a German salad. (_See_ -MACEDOINE OF FRUIT; MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES; SALAD, GERMAN.) - - -RICE CROQUETTES, SAVOURY.--Boil a teacupful of rice in some stock or water -(about two breakfastcupfuls), till it is tender, and until the rice has -absorbed all the water or stock. Chop up a small onion very fine, fry it -till tender in a very little butter, but do not let it brown; add a small -teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs, a brimming teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, to the contents of the frying-pan for two or three minutes, and -then add them to the rice. Mix it well together, and let the rice dry in -the oven till the mixture is capable of being rolled into balls. Now take -two eggs, separate the yolk from the white of one, beat up the whole egg -and one white thoroughly in a basin, but do no beat it to a froth; add the -rice mixture to this, mix it again very thoroughly, and then roll it into -balls about the size of a small walnut, seasoning the mixture with -sufficient pepper and salt. Roll these balls in flour, in order to insure -the outside being dry, and roll them backwards and forwards on the sieve in -order to get rid of the superfluous flour. Make some very fine -bread-crumbs from some stale bread; next beat up the yolk of egg with about -a dessertspoonful of warm water. Dip the rice-balls into this, and then -cover them with the bread-crumbs. Let them stand for an hour or two for -the bread-crumbs to get dry, and then fry them a light golden-brown colour -in a little oil. Fried parsley can be served with them. - -Instead of bread-crumbs you can use up broken vermicelli--the bottom of a -jar of vermicelli can sometimes be utilised this way. This has a very -pretty appearance. The vermicelli browns quickly, and the croquettes have -the appearance of little balls covered in brown network. - - -RICE, SAVOURY.--There are several ways of serving savoury rice. The rice -can be boiled in some stock, strongly flavoured with onion and celery, and -when cooked sufficiently tender one or two eggs can be beaten up with it, -pepper and salt added, and the mixture served with grated cheese. - -Rice can also be rendered savoury by the addition of chopped mushrooms, -pepper and salt, and a little butter, and if a tin of mushrooms is used, -the liquor in the tin should be added to the boiled rice, but in every case -the rice should be made to absorb the liquor in which it is boiled. Eggs -can again be added, as well as grated Parmesan cheese. - -A cheap and quick way of making rice savoury is to mix it with a large -tablespoonful of chutney; make it hot with a little butter, and add -pepper--cayenne if preferred--and a little lemon-juice. - -Rice can also be served as savoury by boiling it in any of the sauces that -may be termed savoury in distinction to those that are sweet, given in the -chapter entitled "Sauces." - - -RICE AND EGGS.--Boil, say half a pound of rice, and let it absorb the water -in which it is boiled. Take four hard-boiled eggs, separate the yolks from -the whites, chop the whites very fine, and add them to the rice with about -a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley and sufficient savoury -herbs to cover a sixpence. Put this in the saucepan and make it hot, with -a little butter, and flavour with plenty of pepper and salt. In the -meantime beat the yellow hard-boiled yolks to a yellow powder, turn out the -rice mixture, when thoroughly hot, into a vegetable dish, and put the -yellow powder either in the centre or make a ring of the yellow powder -round the edge of the rice, and serve a little pile of fried parsley in the -middle. - - -RICE AND TOMATO.--Take half-a-dozen ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the pips, -and put them in a tin in the oven with a little butter to bake; baste them -occasionally with a little butter. In the meantime boil half a pound of -rice in a little stock or water, only adding sufficient so that the rice -can absorb the liquid. When this is done (and this will take about the -same time as the tomatoes take to bake), pour all the liquid and butter in -the tin on to the rice and stir it well up with some pepper and salt. Put -this on a dish, and serve the tomatoes on the rice with the red, unbroken -side uppermost. - - -MACARONI.--Macaroni is a preparation of pure wheaten flour. It is chiefly -made in Italy, though a good deal is made in Geneva and Switzerland. The -best macaroni is made in the neighbourhood of Naples. The wheat that grows -there ripens quickly under the pure blue sky and hot sun, and consequently -the outside of the wheat is browner while the inside of the wheat is whiter -than that grown in England. The wheat is ground and sifted repeatedly. It -is generally sifted about five times, and the pure snow-white flour that -falls from the last sifting is made into macaroni. It is first mixed with -water and made into a sort of dough, the dough being kneaded in the truly -orthodox Eastern style by being trodden out with the feet. It is then -forced by a sort of rough machinery through holes, partially baked during -the process, and then hung up to dry. Macaroni contains a great amount of -nourishment, and it is only made from the purest and finest flour. It is -the staple dish throughout Italy, and in whatever form or way it is cooked, -except as a sweet, tomatoes and grated Parmesan cheese seem bound to -accompany it. - - -SPARGHETTI.--Sparghetti is a peculiar form of macaroni. Ordinary macaroni -is made in the form of long tubes, and when macaroni pudding is served in -schools, it is often irreverently nicknamed by the boys gas-pipes. -Sparghetti is not a tube, but simply macaroni made in the shape of ordinary -wax-tapers, which it resembles very much in appearance. In Italy it is -often customary to commence dinner with a dish of sparghetti, and should -the dinner consist as well of soup, fish, entree, salad, and sweet, the -sparghetti would be served before the soup. Take, say, half a pound of -sparghetti, wash it in cold water, and throw it instantly into boiling -salted water; boil it till it is tender, about twenty minutes, drain it, -put it into a hot vegetable-dish, and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese; toss it about lightly with a couple of forks, till -the cheese melts and forms what may be called cobwebs on tossing it about. -Add also two tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve (sold by all grocers, in -bottles), and serve immediately. This is very cheap, very satisfying, and -very nourishing; and it is to be regretted that this popular dish is not -more often used by those who are not vegetarians, who would benefit both in -pocket and in health were they to lessen their butcher's bill by at any -rate commencing dinner, like the Italians, with a dish of sparghetti. - - -MACARONI--ITALIAN FASHION.--This is very similar to sparghetti, only -ordinary pipe macaroni is used. Take, say, a teacupful of macaroni, wash -it, break it up into two-inch pieces, and throw it into boiling water that -has been salted. Strain it of off, put it in the stew-pan for a few -minutes, with a little piece of butter and some pepper and salt. Add a -tablespoonful of tomato conserve, and serve it with some grated Parmesan -cheese, served separate in a dish. - -Some rub the stew-pan with a head of garlic. This gives it what may be -called a more foreign flavour, but this should not be done unless you know -your guests like garlic. Unfortunately, the proper use of garlic is very -little understood in this country. - -MACARONI CHEESE.--Some years back this was almost the only form in which -macaroni was served in this country. Macaroni cheese used to be served at -the finish of dinner in a dried-up state, and was perhaps one of the most -indigestible dishes which the skill, or want of skill, of our English cooks -was able to produce. Wash and then boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni -in a little milk till it is quite tender, then put into a well-buttered -oval tin a layer of macaroni, and cover this with a layer of bread-crumbs, -mixed with grated cheese, and add a few little lumps of butter; then put -another layer of macaroni and another layer of bread-crumbs and cheese. -Continue alternate layers till you pile up the dish, taking care to have a -layer of dried bread-crumbs at the top. Warm some butter, but do not oil -it, and pour some of this warm butter over the top of the dish to moisten -them; put the dish in the oven till it is hot through, then take it out and -brown the top quickly with a red-hot salamander. If you leave the macaroni -cheese in the oven too long the dish will taste oily and the cheese get so -hard as to become absolutely indigestible. Any kind of grated cheese will -do for this dish, but to the English palate it is best when made from a -moist cheese similar to that which would be used in making Welsh rabbit. - - -MACARONI AND EGGS.--Take half a pound of macaroni and throw it into boiling -water that has been salted. In the meantime have ready four hard-boiled -eggs. When the macaroni is nearly tender throw the hard-boiled eggs into -cold water for a minute, in order to enable you to take off the shells -without burning your fingers. Cut the eggs in half, take out the half -yellow yolk without breaking it; cut the whites of the eggs into rings and -mix these rings with the macaroni on the dish. The macaroni and eggs must -be flavoured with pepper and salt, and if possible pour a little white -sauce over the whole. If you have no white sauce add a little cream or a -little thickened milk with a little butter dissolved in it; now sprinkle a -little chopped blanched parsley over the whole and ornament the dish with -the eight half-yolks. - - -MACARONI A LA REINE.--Boil half a pound of pipe macaroni. Meanwhile warm -slowly in a saucepan three-quarters of a pint of cream, and slice into it -half a pound of Stilton or other white cheese, add two ounces of good fresh -butter, two blades of mace, pounded, a good pinch of cayenne and a little -salt. Stir until the cheese is melted and the whole is free from lumps, -when put in the macaroni and move it gently round the pan until mixed and -hot, or put the macaroni on a hot dish and pour the sauce over. It may be -covered with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour and browned in a Dutch -oven. - - -MACARONI AU GRATIN.--Break up a pound of macaroni in three-inch lengths, -boil as usual and drain. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and Gruyere cheese mixed, -and about a quarter of a pint of some good sauce, white sauce. Move the -stew-pan and its contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the -butter, etc., then turn it out on a dish, which should be garnished with -croutons of fried bread. Pile it in the shape of a dome, cover with -bread-raspings, a little clarified butter run through a colander, and brown -very lightly with a salamander. - -N.B.--The above two recipes are taken from "Cassell's Dictionary of -Cookery." - - -MACARONI AS AN ORNAMENT.--Macaroni is sometimes used to ornament the -outside of puddings, either savoury or sweet. Suppose the pudding has to -be made in a small round mould or basin. Some pipe macaroni is boiled in -water till it is tender, and then cut up into little pieces a quarter of an -inch in length. The inside of the mould is first thickly buttered, and -then these little quarter-inch tubes are stuck in the butter close -together; the pudding, for instance a custard pudding, is then poured into -the mould and the mould steamed. When the pudding is turned out the -outside of the pudding has the appearance of a honey-comb, and looks -extremely pretty. The process is not difficult, but rather troublesome, as -it requires time and patience. - - -MACARONI, TIMBALE OF--This is a somewhat expensive dish. You have first to -decorate a plain mould with what is called _nouilles_ paste, which is made -by mixing half a pound of flour with five yolks of eggs. The mould is then -lined with ordinary short paste, made with half a pound of flour, a quarter -of a pound of butter, and one yolk of egg, mixed in the ordinary way. When -the mould is lined, you have to fill it up with flour, and bake it in a -moderate oven for about an hour. You then take it out, empty out the flour -and brush it well out with an ordinary brush and dry the mould in a very -slack oven. The mould is then filled with some macaroni that has been -boiled tender in milk and flavoured with vanilla and sugar and Parmesan -cheese. The macaroni must be so managed that it absorbs the moisture. The -mould is filled, made hot, and then turned out. It is customary to shake -some powdered sugar over the mould, and then glaze it with a red-hot -salamander. - -N.B.--Very few kitchens possess a proper salamander, but if you make the -kitchen shovel red-hot it will be found to answer the same purpose. - - -MACARONI IN SCOLLOP SHELLS.--Take half a pound of macaroni, wash it, and -throw it into boiling water. Take the macaroni out, drain it, and throw it -into cold water. Then take it out and cut it into pieces not more than -half an inch in length. Take about a quarter of a pound of butter, melt it -in a stew-pan, and add about a cupful of milk, or still better, cream. -Stir it and dredge in enough flour to make it thick, or still better, -thicken it with a little white roux; now add some pepper and salt, about a -quarter of a grated nutmeg, two or three spoonfuls of grated Parmesan -cheese; add the cut-up macaroni and stir the whole well up over the fire -together and fill the scollop shells with the mixture, and throw some -grated cheese over the top. Bake the scollops in the oven till the cheese -begins to brown; then pour a little oiled butter over the top of the -cheese. If made with cream this dish is somewhat rich, but forms an -admirable meal eaten with plenty of bread. - - -MACARONI NUDELS.--The word nudel is probably derived from French _nouilles_ -paste. It is made in a similar manner, or nearly so. French cooks use -only yolk of egg and flour. English cooks use beaten-up eggs, and -sometimes even reserve the yolks for other purposes and make the paste with -white of egg. In any case, the yolks, the whole eggs, or the white without -the yolks, must be well beaten up and then mixed in with the flour with the -fingers till it makes a stiff paste. This paste or dough is then rolled -out with a straight rolling pin--(not an English one)--till it is as thin -as a wafer. The board must be well floured or it will stick. A marble -slab is best, and if you are at a loss for a rolling-pin try an empty black -bottle. It is very important to roll the pastry thin, and it has been well -observed that the best test of thinness is to be able to read a book -through the paste. When rolled out, let each thin cake dry for five or ten -minutes. If you have a box of cutters you can cut this paste into all -sorts of shapes according to the shape of the cutters, or you can cut each -thin cake into pieces about the same size, and then with a sharp dry knife -cut the paste into threads. These threads or ornamental shapes can be -thrown into boiling clear soup, when they will separate of their own -accord. Nudel paste is, in fact, home-made Italian paste, or, when cut -into threads, home-made vermicelli. It is very nourishing, as it is made -with eggs and flour. - - -MACARONI, SAVOURY.--Take half a pound of macaroni and boil it in some -slightly salted water, and let it boil and simmer till the macaroni is -tender and absorbs all the water in which it is boiled. Now take a -dessertspoonful of raw mustard, _i.e._, mustard in the yellow powder. Mix -this gradually with the macaroni, and add five or six tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese and a little cayenne or white pepper according to -taste. Turn the mixture out on to a dish, sprinkle some more grated -Parmesan cheese over the top, bake it in the oven till it is slightly -brown, pour a little oiled butter on the top, and serve. - - -MACARONI AND CHESTNUTS.--Bake about twenty chestnuts till they are tender, -and then peel them and pound them in a mortar, with a little pepper and -salt and butter, till they are a paste. Next wash and boil in the ordinary -way half a pound of macaroni. Drain off the macaroni and put it in a -stew-pan with the chestnuts and about a couple of ounces of butter to -moisten it, and stir it all together and put an onion in to flavour it as -if you were making bread sauce; but the onion must be taken out whole -before it is served. If the mixture gets too dry, it can be moistened with -a little milk or stock. After it has been stirred together for about a -quarter of an hour, turn it out on to a dish, cover it with a little -Parmesan cheese, bake in the oven till it is brown, and moisten the top -when browned with a little oiled butter. - - -MACARONI AND TOMATOES.--Take half a pound of macaroni; wash it and boil it -until it is tender. In the meantime take half a dozen or more ripe -tomatoes; cut off the stalks, squeeze out the pips, and place them in a tin -in the oven with a little butter to prevent their sticking. It is as well -to baste the tomatoes once or twice with the butter and the juice that will -come from them. Put the macaroni when tender and well drained off into a -vegetable-dish, pour the contents of the tin, butter and juice, over the -macaroni and add pepper and salt, and toss it lightly together. Now place -the whole tomatoes on the top of the macaroni, round the edge, at equal -distances. It is a great improvement to the appearance of the dish to -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the macaroni. The tomatoes -should be placed with the smooth, red, unbroken side uppermost. - - -Macaroni and Cream.--Boil half a pound of macaroni; cut it up into pieces -about two inches long and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter -and a quarter of a pound of grated cheese, composed of equal parts of -Gruyere and Parmesan cheese. Moisten this with about three tablespoonfuls -of cream. Toss it all lightly together till the cheese makes cobwebs. Add -a little pepper and salt and serve with some fried bread round the edge cut -up into ornamental shapes. Carefully made pieces of toast, cut into -triangles, will do instead of the fried bread. - - -TAGLIATELLI.--Take some flour and water, and with the addition of a little -salt make a paste which can be rolled out quite thin; cut this into shapes -of the breadth of half a finger. Throw them into boiling water and let -them boil a few minutes. Then remove them to cold water; drain them on a -sieve and use them as macaroni; place at the bottom of a dish some butter -and grated cheese, then a layer of _tagliatelli_ seasoned with pepper, -another layer of butter and cheese, and then one of _tagliatelli_, until -the whole is used; pour over it a glass of cream, add a layer of cheese, -and finish like macaroni cheese, browning it in the oven. - - -OATMEAL PORRIDGE.--Of all dishes used by vegetarians there are none more -wholesome, more nourishing, or more useful as an article of everyday diet -for breakfast than oatmeal porridge. When we remember that the Scotch, -who, for both body and brain, rank perhaps first amongst civilised nations, -almost live on this cheap and agreeable form of food, we should take -particular pains in the preparation of a standing dish which is in itself a -strong argument in favour of a vegetarian diet when we look at the results, -both mentally and bodily, that have followed its use North of the Tweed. -The following excellent recipe for the preparation of oatmeal porridge is -taken from a book entitled, "A Year's Cookery," by Phyllis Browne (Cassell -& Co.):--"When there are children in the family it is a good plan, whatever -they may have for breakfast, to let them begin the meal either with oatmeal -porridge or bread-and-milk. Porridge is wholesome and nourishing, and will -help to make them strong and hearty. Even grown-up people frequently enjoy -a small portion of porridge served with treacle and milk. Oatmeal is -either 'coarse,' 'medium,' or 'fine.' Individual taste must determine -which of these three varieties shall be chosen. Scotch people generally -prefer the coarsest kind. The ordinary way of making porridge is the -following--Put as much water as is likely to be required into a saucepan -with a sprinkling of salt, and let the water boil. Half a pint of water -will make a single plateful of porridge. Take a knife (a 'spurtle' is the -proper utensil) in the right hand, and some Scotch, or coarse, oatmeal in -the left hand, and sprinkle the meal in gradually, stirring it briskly all -the time; if any lumps form draw them to the side of the pan and crush them -out. When the porridge is sufficiently thick (the degree of thickness must -be regulated by individual taste), draw the pan back a little, _put on the -lid_, and let the contents simmer gently till wanted; if it can have two -hours' simmering, all the better; but in hundreds of families in Scotland -and the North of England it is served when it has boiled for ten minutes or -a quarter of an hour; less oatmeal is required when it can boil a long -time, because the simmering swells the oatmeal, and so makes it go twice as -far. During the boiling the porridge must be stirred frequently to keep it -from sticking to the saucepan and burning, but each time this is done the -lid must be put on again. When it is done enough it should be poured into -a basin or upon a plate, and served hot with sugar or treacle and milk or -cream. The very best method that can be adopted for making porridge is to -soak the coarse Scotch oatmeal in water for _twelve hours_, or more (if the -porridge is wanted for breakfast it may be put into a pie-dish over night, -and left till morning). As soon as the fire is lighted in the morning it -should be placed on it, stirred occasionally, kept covered, and boiled as -long as possible, although it may be served when it has boiled for twenty -minutes. When thus prepared it will be almost like a delicate jelly, and -acceptable to the most fastidious palate. The proportions for porridge -made in this way are a heaped tablespoonful of coarse oatmeal to a pint of -water. - -"It is scarcely necessary to give directions for making-- - - -"BREAD AND MILK, for everyone knows how this should be done. It may be -said that the preparation has a better appearance if the bread is cut very -small before the boiling milk is poured on it, and also that the addition -of a small pinch of salt takes away the insipidity. Rigid economists -sometimes swell the bread with boiling water, then drain this off and pour -milk in its place. This, however, is almost a pity, for milk is so very -good for children; and though recklessness is seldom to be recommended, a -mother might well be advised to be reckless about the amount of her milk -bill, provided always that the quantity of milk be not wasted, and that the -children have it." - - -MILK PORRIDGE.--Take a tablespoonful of oatmeal and mix it up in a cup with -a little cold milk till it is quite smooth, in a similar way as you would -mix ordinary flour and milk in making batter. Next put a pint of milk on -to boil, and as soon as it boils mix in the oatmeal and milk, and let it -boil for about a quarter of an hour, taking care to keep stirring it the -whole time. The fire should not be too fierce, as the milk is very apt to -burn. Flavour this with either salt or sugar. - - -RICE AND BARLEY PORRIDGE.--Take a quarter of a pound of rice and a quarter -of a pound of Scotch barley and wash them very thoroughly. The most -perfect way of washing barley and rice is to throw them into boiling water, -let them boil for five or ten minutes, and then strain them off. By this -means the dirty outside is dissolved. Next boil the rice and barley gently -for three or four hours, strain them off, and boil them up again in a -little milk for a short time before they are wanted. It will often be -found best to boil the barley for a couple of hours and then add the rice. -A little cream is a very great improvement. The porridge can be flavoured -with pepper and salt, but is very nice with brown sugar, treacle, or jam, -and when cold forms an agreeable accompaniment to stewed fruit. - - -WHOLE-MEAL PORRIDGE.--Boil a quart of water and gradually stir in about -half a pound of whole-meal; let it boil for about a quarter of an hour, and -serve. Cold milk should accompany this porridge. - - -LENTIL PORRIDGE.--To every quart of water add about six tablespoonfuls of -lentil flour; let the whole boil for about a quarter of an hour, and -flavour with pepper and salt. - - -HOMINY.--Take a teacupful of hominy, wash it in several waters and rub it -well between the hands, and throw away the grains that float on the top, -the same as you do with split peas, pour the water off the top, then strain -it off, and put it in a basin with a quart of water, and cover the basin -over with a cloth; put it by to soak overnight, should it be required for -breakfast in the morning. The next day put it in an enamelled stew-pan -with about a teaspoonful of salt, and let it simmer gently over the fire, -taking care that it does not burn. It is best to butter the bottom of the -saucepan, or if you have a small plate that will just go inside you will -find this a great protection. Let it simmer gently for rather more than an -hour. Stir it well up and flavour it with either sugar or salt, and let it -be eaten with cold milk poured on it on the plate, or with a little butter. - - * * * * * - -The hominy should simmer until it absorbs all the water in which it is -boiled. As a rule a good teacupful will absorb a quart. - - -HOMINY, FRIED.--This is made from the remains of cold boiled hominy. When -cold it will be a firm jelly. Cut the cold hominy into slices, flour them, -egg and bread-crumb them, and then plunge them into some smoking hot oil -till they are of a nice bright golden colour. They are very nice eaten -with lemon-juice and sugar, or they can be served with orange marmalade. - - -FRUMENTY.--Take a quarter of a pint of wheat, wash it thoroughly, and let -it soak for twelve hours or more in water. Strain it off and boil it in -some milk till it is tender, but do not let it get pulpy. As soon as it is -tender add a quart of milk, flavoured with a little cinnamon, three ounces -of sugar, three ounces of carefully washed grocer's currants, and let it -boil for a quarter of an hour. Beat up three yolks of eggs in a tureen, -and gradually add the mixture. It must not be added to the eggs in a -boiling state or else they will curdle. A wineglassful of brandy is a -great improvement, but is not absolutely necessary. The wheat takes a long -time to get tender, probably four hours. - - -SAGO PORRIDGE.--Wash the sago in cold water and boil it in some water, -allowing about two tablespoonfuls to every pint; add pepper and salt and -let cold milk be served with the porridge. - - -MILK TOAST.--This is a very useful way of using up stale bread. Toast the -bread a light brown, and if by chance any part gets black scrape it gently -off. Butter the toast slightly, lay the toast on the bottom of a -soup-plate, and pour some boiling milk over it. Very little butter should -be used, and children often prefer a thin layer of marmalade to butter. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -EGGS (SAVOURY) AND OMELETS. - - -EGGS, PLAIN BOILED.--There is an old saying that there is reason in the -roasting of eggs. This certainly applies equally to the more common -process of boiling them. There are few breakfast delicacies more popular -than a new-laid egg. There are few breakfast indelicacies more revolting -than the doubtful egg which makes its appearance from time to time, and -which may be classed under the general heading of "Shop 'uns." It is a sad -and melancholy reflection that these more than doubtful "shop 'uns" were -all _once_ new-laid. It is impossible to draw any hard-and-fast line to -say at what exact period an egg ceases to be fit for boiling. There is an -old tradition, the truth of which we do not endorse, that eggs may arrive -at a period when, though they are not fit to be boiled, fried, poached, or -hard-boiled, they are still good enough for puddings and pastry. There is -no doubt that many good puddings are spoilt because cooks imagine they can -use up doubtful eggs. - -When eggs are more than doubtful, they are often bought up by the smaller -pastry-cooks in cheap and poor neighbourhoods of our large towns, such as -the East-End of London. These eggs are called "spot eggs," and are sold at -thirty and forty a shilling. They utilise them as follows: They hold the -egg up in front of a bright gas-light, when the small black spot can be -clearly seen. This black spot is kept at the lowest point of the egg, -_i.e._, the egg is held so that this black spot is at the bottom. The -upper part of the egg is then broken and poured off, the black spot being -retained. The moment the smallest streak proceeds from this black spot the -pouring-off process is stopped. Of course, the black part is all thrown -away, the stench from it being almost intolerable, containing, as it does, -sulphuretted hydrogen. We mention the fact for what it is worth. It would -be a bold man who tried to lay down any law as to where waste ceases and -the use of wrongful material commences. Everything depends upon the -circumstances of the case in question. We fear there are many thousands, -hundreds of thousands, in this great city of London, whose everyday life -more or less compares with that of a shipwrecked crew. They "fain would -fill their belly with the husks that the swine do eat, but no man gives -unto them." There is this to be said in favour of vegetarian diet--that, -were it universal, grinding poverty would be banished from the earth. We -must not cry out too soon about using what some men call bad material. -Lord Byron, when he was starving after shipwreck, was glad to make a meal -off the paws of his favourite dog, which had been thrown away when the -carcase had been used on a former occasion. - -The simplest way of boiling eggs is to place them at starting in boiling -water, and boil them from three to three and a half to four minutes, -according to whether they are liked very lightly boiled, medium, or -well-set. - -The egg saucepan should be small, so that when the eggs are first plunged -in it takes the water off the boil for a few seconds, otherwise the eggs -are likely to crack. This applies more particularly to French eggs, which -have thin, brittle shells containing an excess of lime, probably due to the -large quantity of chalk which is the distinguishing feature of the soil in -the _Pas de Calais_, which is the chief neighbourhood from which French -eggs are imported. - -_Over a million_ eggs are imported from France to England every day, -notwithstanding the fact that thousands are kept awake by the crying of -their neighbours' fowls. - -There is a strange delusion among Londoners that an egg is not good if it -is milky. This, of course, is never met with in London, for the simple -reason that a milky egg means, as a rule, than it has not been laid more -than a few hours. For this reason eggs literally hot from the nest are not -suitable for making puddings or even omelets. Eggs that have been kept one -or two days will be found to answer better, as they possess more binding -properties. - -There is an old-fashioned idea that the best way to boil an egg is to place -it in the saucepan in cold water, to put the saucepan on the fire, and as -soon as the water boils the egg is done. A very little reflection will -show that this entirely depends upon the size of the saucepan and the -fierceness of the fire. If the saucepan were the size of the egg, the -water would boil before the egg was hot through; on the other hand, no one -could place an egg in the copper on this principle and then light the -copper fire. - -Eggs are best boiled in the dining-room on the fire, or in an ornamental -egg-boiler. By this means we get the eggs _hot_, an occurrence almost -unknown in large hotels and big establishments. - - -EGGS, TO BREAK.--Whenever you break eggs, never mind what quantity, always -break each egg separately into a cup first; see that it is good, and then -throw it into a basin with the rest. One bad egg would spoil fifty. -Supposing you have a dozen or two dozen new-laid eggs just taken from the -nest, it is not an uncommon thing to have one that has been overlooked for -weeks, and which may be a half-hatched mass of putrefaction. - - -EGGS, FRIED.--The first point is to have a clean frying-pan, which is an -article of kitchen furniture very rarely indeed met with in this country. -For frying eggs, and for making omelets, it is essential that the -frying-pan should never be used for other purposes. - -If you think _your_ frying-pan is perfectly clean, warm it in front of the -fire for half a minute, put a clean white cloth over the top of the finger, -and then rub the inside of the frying-pan. - -To fry eggs properly, very little butter will be required; a little -olive-oil will answer the same purpose. If you have too much "fat," the -white of the eggs are apt to develop into big bubbles or blisters. Another -point is, you do not want too fierce a fire. Fry them very slowly. Some -cooks will almost burn the bottom of the egg before the upper part is set. -As soon as the white is set round the edge, you will often find the yolk -not set at all, surrounded by a rim of semi-transparent "albumen." When -this is the case, it is very often a good plan to take the frying-pan off -the fire (we are presuming the stove is a shut-up one), and place it in the -oven for a minute or so, leaving the oven door open. By this means the -heat of the oven will set the upper part of the eggs, and there is no -danger of the bottom part being burnt. - -There is a great art in taking fried eggs out of a frying-pan and serving -them on a dish. Fried eggs, to look nice, should have the yolk in the -centre, surrounded by a ring of white, perfectly round, rather more than an -inch in breadth. - -Take an egg-slice in the left hand, slide it under each egg separately, so -that the yolk gets well into the middle of the slice. Now take a knife in -the right hand and trim off the superfluous white. By this means you will -be able to do it neatly. The part trimmed away is virtually refuse. Of -course, you do not throw away more than is necessary, but take care that -the white rim round the yolk is of uniform breadth. Most cooks take the -egg out with their right hand, and attempt to trim it with the left; the -result is about as neat as what would happen were you to attempt to write a -letter with your left hand in a hurry. - -Very often the appearance of fried eggs is improved by sprinkling over them -a few specks of chopped parsley. - -In placing fried eggs on toast, place the slice over the toast and draw the -slice away. Do not push the egg on; you may break it. - -EGGS, POACHED.--The best kitchen implement to use for poaching eggs is a -good large frying-pan. The mistake is to let the water boil; it should -only just simmer. You should avoid having the white of the egg set too -hard. We should endeavour to have the eggs look as white as possible. In -order to insure this, put a few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice into the -water, break the eggs separately into a clip, and then turn them very -gently into the hot water. When they are set fairly firm take them out -with an egg-slice, using the left hand as before, and trim them with the -right. It is not necessary, in poached eggs, to have a clear yolk -surrounded with a white uniform ring. Poached eggs often look best when -the yolk reposes in a sort of pillow-case of white. Before putting them on -toast or spinach, &c., be very careful to drain off the water; this is -particularly important when the water is acid, especially with vinegar. - -EGGS, HARD-BOILED.--Place the eggs in cold water, bring the water to -boiling point, and let them boil for ten minutes; if the hard-boiled eggs -are wanted hot, put them in cold water for half a minute, in order that you -may remove the shells without burning your fingers. If the eggs are -required cold, it is best not to remove the shells till just before they -are wanted; but if they have to be served cold, similar to what we meet -with at railway refreshment-rooms, let them be served cold, _whole_. If -you cut a hard-boiled egg the yolk very soon gets discoloured and brown -round the edge, shrivels up, and becomes most unappetising in appearance. - - -EGGS, CURRIED.--Take some hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves (remove the -half-yolks), and cut them into rings. Place all these rings round the edge -of the dish, and pile the white rings up to make a sort of border; pour -some thick curry sauce in the middle, place the half-yolks at equal -distances apart, on the white round the edge, and sprinkle a few specks of -green parsley round the edge on the whites; this will give the dish a -pretty appearance. - - -EGGS, DEVILLED.--Take, say, half a dozen eggs, boil them hard, remove the -shells while hot, cut them in halves, scoop out the yolk, and cut a tiny -piece off the bottom of each white cup, so that it will stand upright--a la -Columbus. Next take all the yolks, and put them in a basin, and pound them -with a little butter till you get a thick squash; add some cayenne pepper, -according to taste, a little white pepper, a little salt, and a few drops -of chilli-vinegar or ordinary vinegar; you can also add a little finely -chopped parsley--say a teaspoonful. Fill each cup with some of this -mixture, and as there will be more than enough to fill them, owing to the -butter, bring them to a point, like a cone. Devilled eggs are best served -cold, in which case they look best placed on a silver or ordinary dish, the -bottom of which is covered with green parsley; the white looks best on a -green bed. Some cooks chop up the little bits of white cut off from the -bottom of the cups, divide them into two portions, and colour one half pink -by shaking them in a saucer with a few drops of cochineal. These white and -pink specks are then sprinkled over the parsley. - -N.B.--In an ordinary way devilled eggs require anchovy sauce to be mixed -with the yolks, but anchovy sauce is not allowed in vegetarian cookery. - - -EGGS A LA BONNE FEMME.--Proceed exactly as in making devilled eggs, till -you place the yolks in the basin; then add to these yolks, while hot, a -little dissolved butter, and small pieces of chopped cold boiled carrot, -turnip, celery, and beet-root; season with white pepper and salt, and mix -well together. Add also a suspicion of nutmeg and a little lemon-juice. -Fill the cups with this while the mixture is moist, as when the butter gets -cold the mixture gets firm. If you use chopped beet-root as well as other -vegetables, it is best to fill half the cups with half the mixture before -any beetroot is added, then add the beet-root and stir the mixture well up -and it will turn a bright red. Now fill the remaining half of the cups, -and place them on the dish containing the parsley, alternately. The red -contrasts prettily with the light yellowish white of the first half. Do -not colour the white specks with cochineal, as this is a different shade of -red from the beet-root. You can chop up the white and sprinkle it over the -parsley with a little chopped beet-root as well. - - -EGGS A LA TRIPE.--Small Spanish onions are perhaps best for this dish, but -ordinary onions can be used. Cut the onions cross-ways after peeling them, -so that they fall in rings, and remove the white core. Two Spanish or half -a dozen ordinary onions will be sufficient. Fry these rings of onions in -butter till they are tender, without browning them. Take them out of the -frying-pan and put them aside. Add a spoonful of flour to the frying-pan, -and make a paste with the butter, and then add sufficient milk so that when -it is boiled and stirred up it makes a thick sauce; add pepper and salt, a -little lemon-juice, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Put back the -rings of onions into this, and let them simmer gently. Take half a dozen -hard-boiled eggs, cut the eggs in halves, remove the yolks, and cut the -whites into rings, like the onions, mixing these white egg-rings with the -onions and sauce; make the whole hot and serve on a dish, using the -hard-boiled half-yolks to garnish; sprinkle a little chopped parsley over -the whole, and serve. - - -EGG, FORCEMEAT OF, OR EGG BALLS.--Take three hard-boiled yolks of eggs, -powder them, mix in a raw yolk, add a little pepper and salt, a small -quantity of grated nutmeg, about a saltspoonful of finely chopped parsley, -chopped up with a pinch of savoury herbs, or a pinch of dust from bottled -savoury herbs, sifted from them, may be added instead. Roll these into -balls not bigger than a very small marble, flour them, and throw them into -boiling water till they are set. - -In many parts of the Continent, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, served whole, -are used as egg balls. A much cheaper way of making egg balls is as -follows:--Beat up one egg, add a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, -some pepper and salt, and a very little grated nutmeg. Sift a bottle of -ordinary mixed savoury herbs in a sieve, and take about half a saltspoonful -of the dust and mix this with the egg, This will be found really better -than using the herbs themselves. Now make some very fine bread-crumbs from -_stale_ bread, and mix this with the beaten-up egg till you make a sort of -soft paste or dough; roll this into balls the size of a marble, flour them, -and throw them into boiling water. The balls must be small or they will -split in boiling. - - -EGGS AU GRATIN.--Make about half a pint of butter sauce, make it hot over -the fire, and stir in about two ounces of Parmesan cheese, a quarter of a -nutmeg grated, some white pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Make this -hot, and then add the yolks of four eggs. Stir it all up, and keep -stirring very quickly till the mixture begins to thicken, when you must -instantly remove it from the fire, but continue stirring for another -minute. In the meantime have ready some hard-boiled eggs, cut these into -slices, and make a circle of the bigger slices on a dish; then spread a -layer of the mixture over the slices of egg, and place another layer on -this smaller than the one below, then another layer of mixture, and so on -with alternate layers till you pile it up in the shape of a pyramid. -Spread a layer of the remainder of the mixture over the surface, and -sprinkle some powdered light-coloured bread-raspings mixed with some grated -Parmesan cheese over the whole; place the dish in the oven to get hot and -to slightly brown, and then serve. Some fried bread cut into pretty shapes -can be used to ornament the base. - - -EGGS AND SPINACH.--Make a thick puree of spinach; take some hard-boiled -eggs, cut them in halves while hot, after removing the shells, and press -each half a little way into the puree, so that the yellow yolk will be -shown surrounded by the white ring. Be very careful not to smear the edge -with the spinach. - -N.B.--Sometimes eggs are poached and laid on the spinach whole. - - -EGGS AND TURNIP-TOPS.--Proceed exactly as above, using a puree of -turnip-tops instead of spinach. - - -EGGS AND ASPARAGUS.--Have ready some of the green parts of asparagus, -boiled tender, and cut up into little pieces an eighth of an inch long so -that they look like peas. Beat up four eggs very thoroughly with some -pepper and salt, and mix in the asparagus, only do not break the pieces of -green. Melt a couple of ounces of butter in a small stew-pan, and as soon -as it commences to froth pour in the beaten-up egg and asparagus; stir the -mixture quickly over the fire, being careful to scrape the bottom of the -saucepan. As soon as the mixture thickens pour it on some hot toast, and -serve. - - -EGGS AND CELERY.--Have ready some stewed celery on toast. (_See_ CELERY, -STEWED.) Poach some eggs and place them on the top. Hard-boiled eggs, cut -into slices, can be added to the celery instead of poached eggs. - -When stewed celery is served as a course by itself, the addition of the -eggs and plenty of bread make it a wholesome and satisfying meal. - - -EGG SALAD.--(_See_ SALADS.) - - -EGG SANDWICHES.--(_See_ SANDWICHES.) - - -EGG SAUCE.--(_See_ SAUCES.) - - -EGG TOAST.--Beat up a couple of eggs, melt an ounce of butter in a -saucepan, and add to it a little pepper and salt. As soon as the butter -begins to froth, add the beaten-up egg and stir the mixture very quickly, -and the moment it begins to thicken pour it over a slice of hot buttered -toast. - -EGGS A LA DAUPHINE.--Take ten hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves and -remove the yolks, and place the yolks in a basin with a piece of new bread, -about as big as the fist, that has been soaked in some milk, or better -still, cream; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a quarter of a grated -nutmeg, and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; rub the whole well -together, and then add two whole eggs, well beaten up, to the mixture to -moisten it. Next fill all these white cups of eggs with some of this -mixture, place the eggs well together, and spread a thin layer of the -mixture over the top; then take a smaller number of half-eggs, filled, and -place on the top and make a pyramid, so that a single half-egg is at the -top. You can place ten half-eggs at the bottom in one layer, six half-eggs -on the top of these, spreading a thin layer of the mixture, then three -half-eggs, one more layer of the mixture, and then one half-egg at the -summit. This dish is sometimes ornamented by forcing hard-boiled yolks of -eggs through a wire sieve. It falls like yellow vermicelli into threads. -This dish should be placed in the oven, to be made quite hot, and some kind -of white sauce should be poured round the edge. - - -EGGS AND BLACK BUTTER.--Fry some eggs, serve them up on a hot dish, and -pour some black butter round the base. (_See_ BLACK BUTTER SAUCE.) - - -EGGS AND GARLIC.--This is better adapted for an Italian than an English -palate. Take half a dozen heads of garlic and fry them in a little butter -in order to remove the rankness of flavour. Take them out and pound them -in a mortar with rather more than a tablespoonful of oil; heat this on the -fire in a stew-pan, after adding some pepper and salt. Beat up an egg, and -stir this in with the oil and garlic till the mixture gets thick. Arrange -some slices of hard-boiled eggs--four eggs would be sufficient--pour this -mixture in the centre, and serve. - - -EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS.--Take half a pint of button mushrooms and, if fresh, -peel them and throw them instantly into water made acid with lemon-juice, -in order that they may not turn a bad colour. In the meantime slice up a -good-sized Spanish onion, and fry the onion in a little butter. As soon as -the onion is a little tender, chop up and add the mushrooms. Put all this -into a stew-pan with a little butter sauce, or a little water can be added -and then thickened with a little butter and flour. Let this simmer gently -for nearly half an hour, add a little made mustard, pepper and salt and a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. Before sending to table add half a dozen -hard-boiled eggs; the whites should be cut into rings, and should be only -put into the sauce long enough to get hot; the yolks should be kept -separate, but must be warmed up in the sauce. - - -EGGS AND ONIONS.--Cut up a large Spanish onion in slices, and fry it in -some butter till it is a light brown and tender, but do not let it burn; -drain off the butter and put the fried onion on a dish; sprinkle some -cayenne pepper and a little salt over the onions, and squeeze the juice of -a whole lemon over them. Now poach some eggs and serve them on the top of -the onion. - - -EGGS AND POTATOES.--Take the remains of some floury potatoes, beat up an -egg, and mix the potato flour with the egg. You can also chop up very -finely a small quantity of onion and parsley, and season with plenty of -pepper and salt. The respective quantities of floury potatoes and beaten -egg must be so regulated that you can roll the mixture into balls without -their having any tendency to break. Make the balls big enough so that when -you press them between the hands you can squeeze the ball into the shape of -an ordinary egg, or you can mould them into this shape with a tablespoon. -Now flour these imitation eggs in order to dry the surface, and then dip -them into well-beaten-up egg and cover them with dried bread-crumbs, and -fry them in a little butter or oil, or brown them in the oven, occasionally -basting them with a little butter. - - -EGGS AND SAUCE ROBERT.--Take some hard-boiled eggs, cut them into quarters, -and make them hot in some Sauce Robert--(_see_ ROBERT SAUCE)--and serve -with fried or toasted bread in a dish. - - -EGGS AND SORREL.--Make a thick puree of sorrel--(_see_ SORREL SAUCE)--and -serve some hard-boiled or poached eggs on the top. - - -EGGS, BROILED.--Cut a large slice of crumb of bread off a big loaf; toast -it lightly, put some pieces of butter on it, and put it on a dish in front -of the fire; then break some eggs carefully on to the toast, and let them -set from the heat of the fire like a joint roasting; when the side nearest -the fire gets set, it will be necessary to turn the dish round. When the -whole has set, squeeze the juice of an orange over the eggs, and a little -grated nutmeg may be added. The eggs and toast should be served in the -same dish in which they are baked. - - -EGGS, BUTTERED.--Break some eggs into a flat dish, then take a little -butter and make it hot in a frying-pan till it frizzles and begins to turn -brown. Now pour this very hot butter, which is hotter than boiling water, -over the eggs in the dish. Put the dish in the oven a short time, and -finish off setting the yolks with a red-hot salamander. - - -EGGS, SCRAMBLED.--Scrambled eggs, when finished properly, should have the -appearance of yellow and white streaks, distinct in colour, but yet all -joined together in one mass. Melt a little butter in the frying-pan, break -in some eggs, as if for frying; of course, the whites begin to set before -the yolks. As soon as the whites are nearly but not quite set, stir the -whole together till the whole mass sets. By this means you will get yellow -and white streaks joined together. It is very important that you don't let -the eggs get brown at the bottom; you will therefore require a perfectly -clean frying-pan and not too fierce a fire. - - -EGGS IN SUNSHINE.--This is a name given to fried eggs with tomato served on -the top. You want a dish that will stand the heat; consequently, take an -oval baking-tin, or enamelled dish that you can put on the top of a shut-up -stove. Melt a little butter in this, and as soon as it begins to frizzle -break some eggs into the dish, and let them all set together. As soon as -they are set, pour four or five tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve on the -top; this is much better than tomato sauce, which contains vinegar. Or you -can bake half a dozen ripe tomatoes in a tin in the oven, and place these -on the top instead of the tomato conserve. - - -EGGS AND CUCUMBER.--Peel and slice up two or three little cucumbers of the -size generally sold on a barrow at a penny each. Put these with two or -three ounces of butter in a stew-pan, and three small onions about the size -of the top of the thumb, chopped very fine; fry these and add a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. When the cucumber is tender, and a little time -has been allowed for the vinegar to evaporate, add six hard-boiled eggs, -cut into slices; make these very hot and serve. Pepper and salt must be -added. - - -EGGS WITH CHEESE.--Take a quarter of a pound of grated cheese (the cheese -should be dry and white), melt this cheese gently in a stew-pan over the -fire, with a little bit of butter about as big as the thumb, in order to -assist the cheese in melting. Mix with it a brimming teaspoonful of -chopped parsley, two or three tiny spring onions, chopped very fine, and -about a quarter of a small grated nutmeg. When the cheese is melted, add -six beaten-up eggs, and stir the whole together till they are set. Fried -or toasted bread should be served round the edge of the dish. - - -LITTLE EGGS FOR GARNISHING.--This is a nice dish when you require a lot of -white of eggs for other purposes, such as iceing a wedding-cake, or making -light vanilla or almond biscuits. - -Take six hard-boiled yolks, powder them, flavour with a little pepper and -salt, and mix in three raw yolks; mix this well together, and roll them -into shapes like very small sausages, pointed at each end like a foreign -cigar. Flour these on the outside, and throw them into boiling water. -These can be used for garnishing purposes for the vast majority of -vegetarian dishes. They can be flavoured if wished with grated nutmeg, -chopped parsley, and a few savoury herbs. - - -OMELETS.--It is a strange fact, but not the less true, that to get a -well-made omelet in a private house in this country is the exception and -not the rule. A few general remarks on making omelets will, we hope, not -be out of place in writing a book on an exceptional style of cookery, in -which omelets should play a most important part. - -First of all, we require an omelet-pan, and for this purpose the cheaper -the frying-pan the better. The best omelet-pan of all is a copper one, -tinned inside. Copper conveys heat quicker than almost any other metal; -consequently, if we use an ordinary frying-pan, the thinner it is the -quicker will heat be conveyed. - -It is very essential that the frying-pan be absolutely clean, and it will -be found almost essential to reserve the omelet-pan for omelets only. A -frying-pan that has cooked meat should not be used for the purpose; and -although in vegetarian cookery a frying-pan has not been used in this -manner, we should still avoid one in which onions or vegetables, or even -black butter has been made. The inside of an omelet-pan should always look -as if it had only just left the ironmonger's shop. - -The next great question is, how much butter should be allowed for, say, six -eggs? On this point the greatest authorities differ. We will first quote -our authorities, and then attempt to give an explanation that reconciles -the difference. A plain omelet may be roughly described as settings of -eggs well beaten up by stirring them up in hot butter. One of the oldest -cookery books we can call to mind is entitled "The Experienced English -Housekeeper," by Elizabeth Raffald. The book, which was published in 1775, -is dedicated to the Hon. Lady Elizabeth Warburton, whom the authoress -formerly served. as housekeeper. The recipe is entitled "To make an -amulet." The book states, "Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a -frying-pan, break six eggs"; Francatelli also gives four ounces of butter -to six eggs. - -On the other hand, Soyer, the great cook, gives two ounces of butter to six -eggs; so also does the equally great Louis Eustache Ude, cook to Louis XVI. - -We may add that "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery" recommended two ounces of -butter to six eggs, whilst "Cassell's Shilling Cookery" recommends four -eggs. - -The probable reason why two such undoubtedly great authorities as Soyer and -Francatelli should differ is that in making one kind of omelet you would -use less butter than in making another. Francatelli wrote for what may be -described as that "high class cooking suited for Pall Mall clubs," where no -one better than himself knew how best to raise the jaded appetite of a -wealthy epicure. Soyer's book was written for the people. - -There are two kinds of omelets, one in which the egg is scarcely beaten at -all, and in which, when cooked, the egg appears set in long streaks. There -is also the richer omelet, which is sent to table more resembling a light -pudding. For the former of these omelets, two ounces of butter will -suffice for six eggs; for the latter of these you will require four ounces -of butter, or else the omelet will be leathery. In Holland, Belgium, and -Germany, and in country villages in France, the omelet is made, as a rule, -with six eggs to two ounces of butter. It comes up like eggs that have -been set. In the higher-class restaurants in Paris, like Bignon's, or the -Cafe Anglais, the omelet is lighter, and probably about four ounces of -butter would be used to six eggs. - -This probably explains the different directions given in various cookery -books for making omelets. - - -OMELET, PLAIN.--Melt _four_ ounces of butter in a frying-pan, heat up six -eggs _till they froth_; add a little pepper and salt, pour the beaten-up -eggs into the frying-pan as soon as the butter begins to frizzle, and with -a tablespoon keep scraping the bottom of the frying-pan in every part, not -forgetting the edge. Gradually the mixture becomes lumpy; still go on -scraping till about two-thirds or more are lumpy and the rest liquid. Now -slacken the heat slightly by lifting the frying-pan from the fire, and push -the omelet into half the frying-pan so that it is in the shape of a -semicircle. By this time, probably, it will be nearly set. Take the -frying-pan off the fire, and hold it in a slanting direction in front of -the fire. When the whole is set, as it will quickly do, slide off the -omelet from the frying-pan on to a hot dish with an egg-slice, and serve. - - -OMELET, PLAIN (ANOTHER WAY).--Put _two_ ounces of butter into a frying-pan, -break six eggs into a basin with a little pepper and salt, _and beat them -very slightly_, so that the yolks and whites are quite mixed into one, but -do not beat them more than you can help, and _do not let the eggs froth_. -As soon as the butter frizzles, pour in the beaten eggs, scrape the -frying-pan quickly with a spoon in every part till the mixture gets lumpy. -Now slacken the heat if the fire is fierce, and let the mixture set in the -frying-pan like a pancake. As soon as it is nearly set, with perhaps only -a dessertspoonful of liquid left unset, turn the omelet over, one half on -to the other half, in the shape of a semicircle, and bring the spoonful of -unset fluid to join them over the edge. Slide off the omelet on to a hot -dish with an egg-slice. - - -OMELET WITH FINE HERBS.--Chop up a dessertspoonful of parsley, and add a -good pinch of powdered savoury herbs, add these with pepper and salt to the -six beaten-up eggs in a basin. Beat up the eggs, either slightly or very -thoroughly, according to whether you use two ounces of butter or four. -Proceed in every respect, in making the omelet, as directed for plain -omelet above. - - -OMELET WITH ONION.--Proceed exactly as in the above recipe, only adding to -the chopped parsley a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of -the thumb down to the first joint, also very finely chopped. When onion is -used in making an omelet a little extra pepper should be added. - - -OMELET WITH CHEESE.--Proceed as if making an ordinary omelet, with four -ounces of butter. Add to the six well beaten-up eggs about four ounces of -grated Parmesan cheese; a small quantity of cream will be found a great -improvement to this omelet. A little pepper and salt must, of course, be -added as well. - - -POTATO OMELET.--Mix three ounces of a floury potato with six eggs, a little -pepper and salt, and half a pint of milk, and make the milk boil and then -stand for a couple of minutes before it is mixed with the eggs; pour this -mixture into three or four ounces of butter, and proceed as in making an -ordinary omelet. - - -POTATO OMELET, SWEET.--Proceed exactly as above, only instead of adding -pepper and salt mix in a brimming tablespoonful of finely powdered sugar, -the juice of a lemon, with half a grated nutmeg. - - -CHEESE SOUFFLE.--To make a small cheese souffle in a round cake-tin, -proceed as follows:--Make the tin very hot in the oven. Put in about an -ounce of butter, so as to make the tin oily in every part inside. The tin -must be tilted so that the butter pours round the sides of the tin as well -as the bottom. Take two eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, and beat -the whites to a stiff froth; beat up the two yolks very thoroughly with a -quarter of a pint of milk. Add to this two tablespoonfuls of grated -Parmesan cheese; add this mixture to the beaten-up whites, and mix the -whole carefully together. Now pour this mixture into the hot buttered tin, -which should be five or six inches deep, and bake it in the oven. The -mixture will rise to five or six times its original depth. As soon as it -is done, run with the souffle from the oven door to the dining-room door. -However quick you may be, the souffle will probably sink an inch on the -way. Some cooks wrap hot flannel on the outside of the tin to keep up the -heat. If you have a folded dinner napkin round the tin for appearance -sake, as is usually the case, fold the napkin before you make the souffle, -and make the napkin sufficiently big round that it can be dropped over the -tin in an instant. The napkin should be pinned, and be quite half an inch -in diameter bigger than the width of the tin. This is to save time. Delay -in serving the souffle is fatal. - - -OMELET SOUFFLE, SWEET.--In making an omelet souffle, sweet, you can proceed -in exactly the same manner as making a cheese souffle, with the exception -that you add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar instead of two -tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. The omelet will, however, require -flavouring of some kind, the two most delicate being vanilla and -orange-flower water. You can flavour it with lemon by rubbing a few lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon, and then pounding this with the -powdered sugar. It must be pounded very thoroughly and mixed very -carefully, or else one part of the omelet will taste stronger of lemon than -the other. Some powdered sugar should be shaken over the top of the -souffle just before serving. - - -OMELET SOUFFLE (ANOTHER WAY).--When a souffle is made on a larger scale, -and served up on a flat dish, it is best to proceed as follows:--Take six -ounces of powdered sugar, and mix them with six yolks of eggs and a -dessertspoonful of flour and a pinch of salt. To this must be added -whatever flavouring is used, such as vanilla. This is all mixed together -till it is perfectly smooth. Next beat the six whites to a very stiff -froth; mix this in with the batter lightly, put two ounces of butter into -an omelet-pan, and as soon as the butter begins to frizzle pour in the -mixture. As it begins to set round the edges, turn it over and heap it up -in the middle, and then slide the omelet off on to a plated-edged baking -dish, which must be well buttered. Put it in the oven for about a quarter -of an hour, to let it rise, shake some powdered sugar over the top, and -serve very quickly. - - -OMELET, SWEET.--Make an ordinary plain omelet with six eggs and either two -or four ounces of butter, as directed for making omelet, plain. Instead of -adding pepper and salt to the beaten-up eggs, add one or two tablespoonfuls -of finely powdered sugar. At the last moment, sprinkle a little powdered -sugar over the omelet, and just glaze the sugar with a red-hot salamander. - - -OMELET WITH JAM.--Make a plain sweet omelet as directed above, adding -rather less sugar--about half. If you make the omelet with two ounces of -butter, and turn it over, put a couple of tablespoonfuls of jam on the -omelet, and turn the half over the jam. It is best to put the jam in the -oven for a minute or two to take the chill off. - -If you make the omelet with four ounces of butter, you must put the jam by -the side of the omelet and let the thin part of the omelet cover it. Of -course, the question what jam is best for sweet omelet is purely a matter -of taste. Most good judges consider that apricot jam is the best, and if -the sweet omelet itself be flavoured with a little essence of vanilla, the -result is generally considered one of the nicest sweets that can be sent to -table. Strawberry jam, especially if some of the strawberries are whole, -is also very nice. The objection to raspberry jam is the pips. - -A most delicious omelet can be made by chopping up some preserved slices of -pine-apple, and placing this in the omelet, and making the pine-apple syrup -hot and pouring it round the base. Red-currant jelly, black-currant jam, -and plum jam can all be used. One of the cheapest and, in the opinion of -many, the best sweet omelets can be made with six eggs, two ounces of -butter, and three or four tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade. In this case -it will cost no more to rub a few lumps of sugar on the outside of an -orange, and pound these with the powdered sugar you use to sweeten the -omelet. If the marmalade is liquid, as it often is, one or two -tablespoonfuls of the juice can be poured round the edge of the omelet. - - -OMELET AU RHUM.--As a rule, spirits are not allowed in vegetarian cookery. -An omelet au rhum is simply a sweet omelet, plain, with plenty of powdered -sugar sprinkled over the top, with some rum ignited poured over it just -before it is sent to table. The way to ignite the rum is to fill a large -spoon, like a gravy-spoon, and hold a lighted wooden taper (not wax; it -tastes) underneath the spoon till the rum lights. The dish should be hot. -It may be a consolation to teetotallers to reflect that the fact of burning -the rum causes all the alcohol to evaporate, and there is nothing left but -the flavour. - - -OMELET AU KIRSCH.--Proceed as above, substituting Kirschenwasser for Rum. - - -OMELET, VEGETABLE.--A plain omelet can also be served with any puree of -vegetables, so that we can have--Asparagus Omelet, Artichoke Omelet, French -Bean Omelet, Celery Omelet, Spinach Omelet, Mushroom Omelet, Tomato Omelet, -&c. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -SALADS AND SANDWICHES. - - -SALADS AND SANDWICHES.--Probably the most patriotic Englishman will admit -that, on the subject of salads, we can learn something from the French. -During the last half-century a great improvement has taken place on this -point in this country. Many years ago it was the fashion to dress an -English lettuce, resembling in shape an old umbrella, with a mixture of -brown sugar, milk, mustard, and even anchovy and Worcester sauce, and then -add a few drops of oil, as if it were some dangerous poison, like prussic -acid, not to be tampered with lightly. The old-fashioned lettuces were so -hard and crisp that it was difficult to chew them without making a noise -somewhat similar to walking on a shingly beach. In modern days, however, -we have arrived at a stage of civilisation in which, as a rule, we use soft -French lettuces instead of the hard gingham-shaped vegetables which somehow -or other our grandfathers ate for supper with a whole lobster, seasoned -with about half a pint of vinegar, and then slept none the worse for the -performance. The first point for consideration, if we wish to have a good -salad, is to have the lettuces crisp and dry. Old-fashioned French -cookery-books direct that the lettuce should never be washed. The stalks -should be cut off, the outside leaves removed and thrown away, and the -lettuce itself should then be pulled in pieces with the fingers, and each -piece wiped with a clean cloth. This is not always practicable, but the -principle remains the same. You can wash the lettuce leaves without -bruising them. You can dry them by shaking them up lightly in a large -clean cloth, and you can spread them out and let them get _dry_ an hour or -two before they are dressed. - -Another important point to be borne in mind is that a salad should never be -dressed till just before it is wanted to be eaten. If by chance you put by -the remains of a dressed salad, it is good for nothing the next morning. -Finally, the oil must be pure olive oil of the best quality, and to ensure -this it should bear the name of some well-known firm. A good deal of the -oil sold simply as salad oil, bearing no name, is adulterated, sometimes -with cotton-seed oil. - - -SALAD, FRENCH LETTUCE, PLAIN.--Clean one or more French lettuces (throw -away all the leaves that are decayed or bruised), place these in a -salad-bowl, and, supposing we have sufficient for two persons, dress the -salad as follows:--Put a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of -pepper into a tablespoon. Fill the tablespoon up with oil, stir the pepper -and salt up with a fork, and pour it over the lettuce. Now add another -tablespoonful of oil, and then toss the lettuce leaves lightly together -with a spoon and fork. Allow one tablespoonful of oil to each person. -This salad would suffice for two. Be sure and mix the lettuce and oil well -together before you add any vinegar. The reason of this is that if you add -the vinegar first it would soak into the lettuce leaves, making one part -more acid than another. Having well mixed up the lettuce and oil, add half -a tablespoonful of vinegar. Mix it once more, and the salad is dressed. - -In France they always add to the lettuce, before it is dressed, two or -three finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves. Dried tarragon can be used, -but it is not equal to fresh. If you have no tarragon it is a great -improvement to use tarragon vinegar instead of ordinary vinegar. Tarragon -vinegar is sold by all grocers at sixpence per bottle. - -It is also often customary to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or -rub a piece of crust of bread with garlic, and toss this piece of crust up -with the salad after it has been dressed. Garlic should never be chopped -up, but only used as stated above. - -A good French salad is also always decorated with one or more hard-boiled -eggs, cut into quarters, longways. These are placed on the top of the -lettuce. - - -SALAD, ENGLISH, LETTUCE.--The ordinary English salad is made either with -French or English lettuces, and is generally dressed as follows:--One or -two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, a teaspoonful of made mustard, two -tablespoonfuls of vinegar, pepper, and salt. There are many people still -living in remote parts of the country who prefer this style of dressing. - - -SALAD, ENGLISH, MIXED.--The old-fashioned English _mixed_ salad generally -consisted of English lettuce cut up into strips crossways, to which was -added mustard and cress, boiled beetroot, chopped celery, spring onions, -radishes, and watercress. It is by no means a bad mixture when dressed -with oil, and, of course, it can be dressed it a l'Anglaise. It makes an -excellent accompaniment to a huge hunk of cheese, a crusty loaf, a good -appetite, and a better digestion. - - -SALAD, MAYONNAISE.--This is generally considered the king of salads, and it -can be made an exceedingly pretty-looking dish, Take two or more French -lettuces, clean and dry them as directed above, and take the small heart of -one lettuce about the size of a small walnut, uncut from the stalk, so that -you can stand it upright in the middle of the salad, raised above the -surface. Arrange all the softer parts of the leaves on the top of the -salad so as to make as much as possible a smooth surface. Make some -Mayonnaise sauce, thick enough to be spread like butter, and mask this -little mound and all the surface of the middle of the salad round it with a -thin layer of the sauce, so that it looks like the top of a mould of solid -custard. Ornament the edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in -quarters, and place between the quarters slices of pickled gherkins and -stoned olives. Take a small teaspoonful of French capers, dry them on a -cloth, and sprinkle a few of them about an inch apart on the white surface. -Next chop up, very finely, about half a teaspoonful of parsley, and see -that this doesn't stick together in lumps. Place this on the end of a -knife and flip the knife so that the little green specks of parsley fall on -the white surface. Next take about half a saltspoonful of finely crumbled -bread, and shake these in a saucer with one or two drops of cochineal. -This will colour them a bright red, and they will have all the appearance -of lobster-coral. Place these red bread-crumbs on the end of a knife and -let them fall over the white surface like the parsley. The little red and -green specks on the white background make the dish look exceedingly pretty. -Before mixing the salad all together add a tablespoonful of tarragon -vinegar or lemon-juice. - - -TOMATO SALAD.--For making tomato salad you require red, ripe tomatoes; the -smoother they are the better, but the chief points are--very ripe and very -red. Never use those pink, crinkly tomatoes which look something like milk -stained with plum juice. If tomatoes are picked unripe, and then allowed -to ripen afterwards, they become rotten and worthless. Slice up half a -dozen or more tomatoes--sometimes it will be necessary to remove the core -and pips, sometimes not; add a little oil, a little vinegar, and some -pepper and salt. Tomato salad is one of the few that are very nice without -any oil at all. Of course, this is a matter of taste. Some persons slice -up a few onions and add to the tomatoes. In addition to this you can add -some slices of cold potatoes. In this latter case, heap the potatoes up in -the middle of the dish in the shape of a dome sprinkle some chopped parsley -over the potatoes, put a border of sliced onion round the base, and then a -border of sliced tomato outside that. This makes the dish look pretty. - -Many persons rub the dish or salad-bowl with a bead of garlic. This is -quite sufficient to flavour the salad; but never _chop_ garlic for salads. - - -EGG SALAD.--Egg salad consists of an ordinary salad made with French -lettuces, with an extra quantity of hard-boiled eggs. If you want to make -the salad look very pretty on the top, cut up the lettuces and dress them -with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. Make the tops of the lettuces -(which should be placed in a round salad-bowl) as smooth as you can without -pressing them down unnecessarily. Now take six hard-boiled eggs, separate -the yolks from the whites, powder the yolks, and chop up the whites small. -Sprinkle a ring of yellow round the edge of the salad-bowl, say an inch in -width, then put a ring of white round, and place the remainder of yolk in -the middle, almost up to the centre. Have the centre about two inches in -diameter. We now have a yellow centre surrounded by a broad white rim (as, -of course, there is more white than yellow), and an outside yellow ring, -which meets the white china bowl. Reserve about a teaspoonful of pieces of -finely chopped white, and put them in a saucer, with a few drops of -cochineal, and shake them. This turns them a bright red. Sprinkle these -red specks _very sparingly_ on the white, and take about half a teaspoonful -of chopped blanched parsley, and sprinkle these green specks on the yellow. -This makes the dish look pretty. - - -GERMAN SALAD.--German salad is made from cold boiled vegetables chopped up. -In Germany, it is made, according to English ideas, from every vegetable -you have ever heard of, mixed with a number of vegetables you have never -heard of. In England it can be made by chopping up boiled carrot, turnip, -cabbage, cauliflower, potato, French beans, Brussels sprouts (whole), -celery, raw onion, raw apple, &c. In fact, in making this vegetable salad -the motto should be "the more the merrier." In addition to this you will -find that they add what is known as _sauer kraut_. This latter is not -adapted, as a rule, to English palates. The salad is mixed with oil and -vinegar in the ordinary way, the Germans adding much more vinegar than we -should care for in this country. The salad is decorated at the finish with -boiled beet-root. It is very pretty to cut the beet-root into triangles, -the base of the triangle touching the edge of the salad-bowl, the point of -the triangle pointing inwards. Gut a star out of a good slice of -beet-root, and place it in the centre of the bowl; sprinkle a little -chopped blanched parsley over the surface of the mixed vegetables. - - -ENDIVE SALAD.--Endives come into season long before lettuces, and are much -used abroad for making salads. The drawback to endive is that it is tough, -and the simple remedy is to boil it. Take three or four white-heart -endives, throw them into boiling water slightly salted. When they get -tender take them out and instantly throw them into cold water, by which -means you preserve their colour. When quite cold, take them out again, -drain them, dry them thoroughly, and pull them to pieces with the fingers. -Now place them in a salad-bowl, keeping the whitest part as much as -possible at the top. Place some hard-boiled eggs round the edge, and -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the white endive. You can, -if you like, put a few spikes of red beet-root between the quarters of -eggs. - -It is a great improvement to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or -you can rub a crust of bread with a bead of garlic, and toss this lightly -about in the salad when you mix it. - - -SALSIFY SALAD.--Boiled salsify makes a very delicious salad. Take some -white salsify, scrape it, and instantly throw it into vinegar and water, by -which means you will keep it a pure white. Then, when you have all ready, -throw it into boiling water, slightly salted, boil it till it is tender, -throw it into cold water, and when cold take it out, drain it and dry it, -cut it up into small half-inch pieces (or put it in whole, in sticks, into -a salad-bowl), sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the top, -dress in the ordinary way with oil and white French vinegar, and be sure to -use white pepper, not black, if white wine vinegar is objected to, the -juice of a hard fresh lemon is equally good, if not better. - - -POTATO SALAD.--Potato salad is generally made from the remains of cold -boiled potatoes. Of course, potatoes can be boiled on purpose, in which -case they should be allowed to get cold in the water in which they were -boiled. New potatoes are far better for the purpose than old. Cut the -potatoes into slices, and place them in a salad-bowl with a little finely -chopped blanched parsley. You can also add some finely chopped onion or -shallot. If you do not add these you can rub the bowl with a bead of -garlic. Sprinkle some more chopped parsley over the top of the salad and -ornament the edge of the bowl with some thin slices of pickled gherkins. A -few stoned olives can also be added. Dress the salad with oil and vinegar -in the ordinary way. - - -ASPARAGUS SALAD.--Cold asparagus makes a most delicious salad. It is -needless, perhaps, to say it is made from cold boiled asparagus. The best -dressing for asparagus salad is somewhat peculiar, and is made as -follows:--Take, say, an ounce of butter, put it in a saucer, and melt it in -the oven till it is like oil. Now mix in a teaspoonful of made mustard, -some pepper, salt, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. Stir it all together, -and as it gets cold it will begin to get thick. Dip all the green part of -the asparagus in this, and lay the heads gently, without breaking them, in -a vegetable dish, with the white stalk resting on the edge of the dish, and -the green part in the middle. Let the salad get perfectly cold, and then -serve. Of course, the sauce clings to the asparagus. The asparagus is -eaten with the fingers like hot asparagus--a custom now generally -recognised. - - -ARTICHOKE SALAD.--This applies to French artichokes, not Jerusalem. In -France, artichokes are often served raw for breakfast, on a plate, with a -little heap of chopped raw onion and another heap of chopped capers or -parsley. The Frenchman mixes a little oil or vinegar on his plate, adding -the onion, &c., according to his taste. The leaves are pulled off one by -one, the white stalk part dipped in this dressing, and then eaten, by being -drawn through the teeth. The artichoke bottom is reserved for the finish -as a _bon bouche_, something like a schoolboy who will eat all the pastry -round a jam tart, leaving the centre for the _finale_. - - -BEET-ROOT SALAD.--In boiling beet-roots be careful not to break them, or -else they will bleed and lose their colour. When the beet-root is boiled -and cold, peel it, and cut it into thin slices. It can be dressed with oil -and vinegar, or vinegar only, adding pepper and salt. Some persons dress -beet-root with a salad-dressing in which cream is used instead of oil; but -never use cream _and_ oil. To mix cream and oil is like mixing bacon with -butter. - - -CUCUMBER SALAD.--Peel a cucumber and cut it into slices as thin as -possible. We might almost add, thinner if possible. Mix it with a little -salt, and let it stand, tossing the cucumber about every now and then. By -this means you extract all the water from the cucumber. Drain off this -water, and add plenty of oil to the cucumber, and then mix it so that every -slice comes in contact with the oil. Now add a little pepper, and a very -little vinegar, and mix it thoroughly. If you add vinegar to cucumber -before the oil some of the slices will taste like sour pickle, as the -vinegar soaks into the cucumber. Cucumber should be always served very -cold, and is best placed in an ice-chest for an hour before serving. Some -people put a piece of ice on the top of the cucumber. - - -FRENCH BEAN SALAD.--Cold boiled French beans make a very nice salad. A -little chopped parsley should be mixed with them, and the salad-bowl can be -rubbed with a bead of garlic. Some people soak the beans in vinegar first, -and then add oil. This would suit a German palate. A better plan is to -add the oil first, with pepper and salt, mix all well together, and then -add the vinegar. - - -BEAN SALAD.--Cold boiled broad beans make a very nice salad. Rub off the -skins so that only the green part is put in the salad-bowl. Rub the bowl -with garlic, add a little chopped parsley, then oil, pepper and salt, mix -well, and add vinegar last of all. - - -HARICOT BEAN SALAD.--This can be made from cold, boiled, dried white -haricot beans. Add plenty of chopped parsley, rub the bowl with garlic, -mix oil, pepper and salt first, vinegar afterwards. - - * * * * * - -The nicest haricot bean salad is made from the fresh green beans met with -abroad. They can be obtained in this country in tins, and a delicious -salad can be had at a moment's notice by opening a tin, straining off the -liquor, and drying the little green beans, which are very soft and tender, -and dressing them with oil and vinegar, in the ordinary way. A little -chopped parsley, or garlic flavouring by rubbing the bowl, can be added or -not, according to taste. - - -CELERY AND BEET-ROOT SALAD.--A mixture of celery and beet-root makes a very -nice winter salad. The beet-root, of course, is boiled, and the celery -generally sliced up thin in a raw state. It is a great improvement to boil -the celery till it is _nearly_ tender. By this means you improve the -salad, and the celery assists in making vegetarian stock. - -WATER-CRESS.--Water-cress is sometimes mixed with other salad, but when -eaten alone requires no dressing, but only a little salt. - - -DANDELION LEAF SALAD.--Considering that the root of the dandelion is so -largely used in medicine for making taraxacum, it is to be regretted that -the leaves of the plant are not utilised in this country as they are abroad -for making salad. These leaves can be obtained in London at a few shops in -the French colony of Soho. The leaves are washed, dried, placed in a -salad-bowl, and dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. - -CAULIFLOWER SALAD.--The remains of a cold boiled cauliflower makes a very -good salad if only the white part be used. It can be mixed with remains of -cold potatoes, some chopped blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the -top, and it can be dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way; or it -can be served up with a sauce made from oiled butter similar to that -described for dressing cold asparagus. - - -MUSTARD AND CRESS.--This is somewhat similar to watercress. When served -alone it is generally dipped in salt and eaten with bread-and-butter, but -it is very useful to mix with other kinds of salad. - - -HOP SALAD.--In Germany a very nice salad is made from young hops, which are -grown very extensively in America and Germany, as English brewers are well -aware. The hops are picked when quite young, before they get leafy; they -are then boiled till nearly tender. They can be dressed in the English -fashion with oil and vinegar, or in the German fashion with vinegar and -sugar. - - -ONION SALAD.--Few people are aware of what an excellent salad can be made -from the remains of cold boiled Spanish onions. Spanish onions can -generally be bought at a penny a pound. They are mild in flavour, very -wholesome, and contain a great deal of nourishment. Take a couple of cold -boiled Spanish onions, pull them into leaves after they are quite dry, and -dress them with a very little oil and vinegar. - - -ITALIAN SALAD.--This is a very delicious salad, met with in Italy. It -consists of a great variety of boiled vegetables, which are placed in a -mould and served in aspic jelly. This latter, however, is not allowed in -vegetarian cookery. A very good imitation, however, can be made as -follows:--First take as many cold vegetables as you can, consisting of new -potatoes, sliced, and cut up with a cutter into pretty-looking shapes. You -can also take green peas, asparagus tops, cold boiled cauliflower, French -beans, beet-root, &c. These vegetables should be dressed with a little -oil, tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt, and can be placed in a mould or -plain round basin. This basin can now be filled up with a little water -thickened with corn-flour, hot. When it is cold, it can be turned out and -sent to table in the shape of a mould. - - -MELON SALAD.--Melon is sometimes served abroad as a salad, and a slice of -melon is often sent to table at the commencement of dinner, to be eaten -with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and sometimes oil and vinegar. - - -SALADS, SWEET.--Apples, oranges, currants, pine-apple, and bananas are -sometimes served as salads with syrup and sugar. They make a very nice -mixture, or can be served separately. When preserved pine-apples in tins -are used for the purpose, the syrup in the tin should be used for dressing -the salad. Whole ripe strawberries are a great improvement, as also a -wineglassful of brandy and a lump of ice. - - -SANDWICHES.--There is an art in cutting sandwiches--a fact which persons in -the habit of frequenting railway restaurants will hardly realise. A tinned -loaf is best for the purpose if we wish to avoid waste. The great thing is -to have the two slices of bread to fit together neatly, and there is no -occasion to cut off the crusts when made from a well-rasped tin loaf. -First cut off the crust from the top of the loaf, which, of course, must be -used for some other purpose. The best use for this top slice is to toast -it lightly on the crumby side, and cut it up into little pieces to be -served with soup. Next take the loaf, cut off one thin slice, evenly, and -let it fall on its back on the board you are using. Now butter very -slightly the upper surface. Next butter the top of the loaf, cut another -thin slice, and, of course, these two pieces of bread will be perfectly -level, and, if the two buttered sides be placed together, will fit round -the edge exactly. - - -TOMATO SANDWICHES.--Cut some very ripe red tomatoes into thin slices, and -cut them parallel with the core, as otherwise you will get them in rings -from which the core will drop out. Sprinkle some thin slices of -bread-and-butter with mustard and cress, dip the slices of tomato into a -dressing made with a little oil, pepper, and salt, well mixed up. Put -these between the bread-and-butter, and cut them into squares or triangles -with a very sharp knife. These sandwiches are very cool and refreshing, -and make a most agreeable supper after a hot and crowded ball-room. If you -wish to have them look pretty, pile them up in the centre of a silver dish, -and place a few ripe red tomatoes round the base on some bright green -parsley. Place the dish in an ice-chest for an hour before it is eaten. - - -MUSTARD AND CRESS SANDWICHES.--Place well-washed and dried mustard and -cress between two slices of bread-and-butter, and trim the edges. It is -best to pepper and salt the bread-and-butter first. Pile up the sandwiches -on a silver dish, and sprinkle some loose mustard and cress round the base. - - -EGG SANDWICHES.--Cut some hard-boiled eggs into very thin slices; season -them with pepper and salt, and place them between two slices of thin -bread-and-butter; cut the sandwiches into triangles or squares, pile them -up in a silver dish, place plenty of fresh green parsley round the base of -the dish, and place some hard-boiled eggs, cut in halves, on the parsley, -which will show what the sandwiches are composed of. - - -INDIAN SANDWICHES.--These are exactly similar to the above, with the -addition that the slices of hard-boiled eggs are seasoned with a little -curry-powder. If hard-boiled eggs in halves are placed round the base of -the dish, each half-egg should be sprinkled with curry-powder in order to -show what the sandwiches are. - - -MUSHROOM SANDWICHES.--Take a pint of fresh button mushrooms, peel them, and -throw them into lemon-juice and water, in order to preserve their colour; -or else take the contents of a tin of mushrooms, chop them up and stew them -in a frying-pan very gently with a little butter, pepper, salt, a pinch of -thyme, and the juice of a whole lemon to every pint of mushrooms. When -tender, rub the mixture through a wise sieve while the butter is warm and -the mixture moist. Add a teaspoonful of finely chopped blanched parsley, -spread this mixture while still warm on a thin slice of bread, and cover it -over with another thin slice of bread, and press the two slices of bread -together. When the mixture gets quite cold, the butter will set and the -sandwiches get quite firm. The bread need not be buttered, as the mixture -contains butter enough. Pile these sandwiches up on a silver dish, -surround the dish with plenty of fresh parsley, and place a few fresh -mushrooms whole, stalk and all, round them, as if they are growing out of -the parsley. - - -CHEESE SANDWICHES.--Oil a little butter, add some pepper and salt, and a -spoonful of made mustard and a pinch of cayenne pepper. When this mixture -is nearly cold, use it for buttering some thin slices of bread, and, before -it is quite cold, sprinkle them with some grated Parmesan cheese. Put the -two slices of bread together and press them, and, when cold,. cut them -into squares or triangles. Place plenty of fresh green parsley round the -dish, and, if you are using hard-boiled eggs for other purposes, take the -end of the white of egg, which has a little cup in it not much bigger than -the top of the finger, and put a little heap of Parmesan cheese in each -cup. Place a few of these round the base of the dish, on the parsley, in -order to show what the sandwiches are composed of. - - -CREAM-CHEESE SANDWICHES.--Chop up some of the white part of a head of -celery very fine, and pound it in a mortar with a little butter; season it -with some salt. Use this mixture and butter some thin slices of bread, -place a thin slice of cream cheese between these slices, cut the sandwiches -into squares or triangles with a very sharp knife, and pile the sandwiches -up on a silver dish. Surround the dish with parsley, and place a few -slices of cream-cheese, cut round the size of a halfpenny, round the base, -stick a little piece of the yellowish-white leaves of the heart of celery -in each piece. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -SAVOURY DISHES. - -MUSHROOMS. - - -In many parts of the country mushrooms grow so plentifully that their cost -may be considered almost nothing. On the other hand, if they have to be -bought fresh, at certain seasons of the year they are very expensive, while -tinned mushrooms, which can always be depended upon, cannot be regarded in -any other light than that of a luxury. - -When mushrooms can be gathered in the fields like black-berries they are a -great boon to vegetarians. Of course, great care must be taken that only -genuine mushrooms are picked, as there have been some terrible instances of -poisoning from fungi being gathered by mistake, as many Cockney tourists -know to their cost. As a rule, in England all mushrooms bought in markets -can be depended upon. In France, where mushrooms are very plentiful, an -inspector is appointed in every market, and no mushrooms are allowed to be -sold unless they have first received his sanction. This is a wise -precaution in the right direction. - -One important word of warning before leaving the subject. Mushrooms should -be eaten _freshly gathered_, and, if allowed to get stale, those which were -perfectly wholesome when fresh picked become absolutely poisonous. The -symptoms are somewhat similar to narcotic poisoning. This particularly -applies to the larger and coarser kind that give out black juice. - -MUSHROOMS, PLAIN, GRILLED.--The larger kinds of mushrooms are best for the -purpose. The flat mushrooms should be washed, dried, and peeled. They are -then cooked slowly over a clear fire, and a small wire gridiron, like those -sold at a penny or twopence each, is better adapted for the purpose than -the ordinary gridiron used for grilling steak. The gridiron should be kept -high above the fire. The mushrooms should be dipped in oil, or oiled -butter, and care should be taken that they do not stick to the bars. They -should be served very hot, with pepper and salt and a squeeze of -lemon-juice. - -MUSHROOMS, FRIED.--When mushrooms are very small they are more easily fried -than grilled. They should be washed, dried and peeled, placed in a -frying-pan, with a little butter, pepper and salt, and cooked till tender. -They are very nice served on toast, and the butter in which they are cooked -can be poured on the toast first, and the mushrooms arranged on the top -afterwards. A squeeze of lemon-juice is an improvement. - -MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN.--This is a very delicious dish, and is often served as -an entree at first-class dinners. They are made from what are known as cup -mushrooms. It is best to pick mushrooms, as far as possible, the same -size, the cup being about two inches in diameter. Peel the mushrooms very -carefully, without breaking them, cut out the stalks close down with a -spoon, scoop out the inside of the cup, so as to make it hollow. Now peel -the stalks and chop them up with all the scooped part of the mushroom, -with, supposing we are making ten cups, a piece of onion as big as the top -of the thumb down to the first joint. To this add a brimming teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, or even a little more, a saltspoonful of dried thyme, -or half this quantity of fresh thyme. Fry all this in a frying-pan, in a -little butter. The aroma is delicious. Then add sufficient dried -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve to make the whole -into a moist paste, fill each of the cups with this mixture so that the top -is as convex as the cup of the mushroom, having first seasoned the mixture -with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. Shake some fine -bread-raspings over the top so as to make them of a nice golden-brown -colour, pour a little drop of oil into a baking-tin, place the mushrooms in -it, and bake them gently in an oven till the cup part of the mushroom -becomes soft and tender, but take care they do not cook till they break. -Now take them out carefully with an egg-slice, and place them on a dish--a -silver dish is best for the purpose-and place some nice, crisp, fried -parsley round the edge. - - -MUSHROOMS A LA BORDELAISE.--This, as the name implies, is a French recipe. -It consists of ordinary grilled mushrooms, served in a sauce composed of -oil or oiled butter, chopped up with parsley and garlic, thickened with the -yolks of eggs. - -MUSHROOMS A LA PROVENCALE.--This is an Italian recipe. You must first -wash, peel, and dry the mushrooms, and then soak them for some time in what -is called a _marinade_, which is another word for pickle, of oil mixed with -chopped garlic, pepper, and salt. They are then stewed in oil with plenty -of chopped parsley over rather a brisk fire. Squeeze, a little lemon-juice -over them and serve them in a dish surrounded with a little fried or -toasted bread. - - -MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT.--The mushrooms after being cleaned should be chopped up -and fried in a little butter; lemon-juice should be added before they are -chopped in order to preserve their colour. One or two hard-boiled yolks of -eggs can be added to the mixture, and the whole rubbed through a wire sieve -while hot. When the mixture is hot it should be moist, but, of course, -when it gets cold, owing to the butter it will be hard. This mushroom -forcemeat can be used for a variety of purposes. - - -MUSHROOM PIE.--Wash, dry, and peel some mushrooms, and cut them into slices -with an equal quantity of cut-up potatoes. Bake these in a pie, having -first moistened the potatoes and mushrooms in a little butter. Add pepper -and salt and a small pinch of thyme. Cover them with a little water and -put some paste over the dish in the ordinary way. It is a great -improvement, after the pie is baked, to pour in some essence of mushrooms -made from stewing the stalks and peelings in a little water. A single -onion should be put in with them. - - -MUSHROOM PIE, COLD.--Prepare the mushrooms, potatoes, and essence of -mushroom as directed above, adding a little chopped parsley. Bake all -these in the dish before you cover with paste, add also an extra seasoning -of pepper. When the mushrooms and potatoes are perfectly tender, strain -off all the juice or gravy, and thicken it with corn-flour; put this back -in the pie-dish and mix all well together, and pile it up in the middle of -the dish so that the centre is raised above the edge. Let this get quite -cold, then cover it with puff-paste, and as soon as the pastry is done take -it out of the oven and let the pie get cold. This can now be cut in -slices. - - -MUSHROOM PUDDING.--Make a mixture of mushrooms, potatoes, &c., exactly -similar to that for making a pie. Place this in a basin with only -sufficient water to moisten the ingredients, cover the basin with -bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and steam the basin in the ordinary way. - - -TOMATOES, GRILLED.--What is necessary is a clear fire and a gridiron in -which the bars are not too far apart. The disputed point is, should the -tomatoes be grilled whole or cut in half? This may be considered a matter -of taste, but personally we prefer them grilled whole. Moisten the tomato -in a little oil or oiled butter, and grill them carefully, as they are apt -to break. Grilled tomatoes are very nice with plain boiled macaroni, or -can be served up on boiled rice. - - -TOMATOES, BAKED.--Place the tomatoes in a tin with a little butter, and -occasionally baste them with the butter. When they are tender, they can be -served either plain or with boiled macaroni or rice. The butter and juice -in the tin should be poured over them. - - -TOMATOES, FRIED.--Place the tomatoes in a frying-pan with a little butter, -and fry them until they are tender. Pour the contents of the frying-pan -over them, serve plain, or with macaroni or rice. - - -TOMATOES, STEWED.--Take half a dozen good-sized tomatoes, and chop up very -finely one onion about the same size as the tomatoes. Moisten the bottom -of a stew-pan with a little butter, and sprinkle the chopped onion over the -tomatoes. Add a dessertspoonful of water; place the lid on the stewpan, -which ought to fit tightly. It is best to put a weight on the lid of the -stew-pan, such as a flat-iron. Place the stew-pan on the fire, and let -them steam till they are tender. They are cooked this way in Spain and -Portugal, and very often chopped garlic is used instead of onion. - - -TOMATOES AU GRATIN.--Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut off the stalks, and -squeeze out time juice and pips. Next take a few mushrooms and make a -mixture exactly similar to that which was used to fill the inside of -Mushrooms au gratin. Fill each tomato with some of this mixture, so that -it assumes its original shape and tight skin. The top or hole where the -stalk was cut out will probably be about the size of a shilling or -halfpenny. Shake some bright-coloured bread raspings over this spot -without letting them fall on the red tomato. In order to do this, cut a -round hole the right size in a stiff piece of paper. Place the tomatoes in -a stew-pan or a baking-dish in the oven, moistened with a little oil. The -oil should be about the eighth of an inch deep. Stew or bake the tomatoes -till they are tender, and then take them out carefully with an egg-slice, -and serve them surrounded with fried parsley. If placed in a silver dish -this has a very pretty appearance. - - -TOMATO PIE.--Slice up an equal number of ripe tomatoes and potatoes. Place -them in a pie-dish with enough oiled butter to moisten them. Add a -brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, pepper, and -salts and, if possible, a few peeled mushrooms, which will be found to be a -very great improvement. Cover the pie with paste, and bake in the oven. - - -TOMATO PIE (ANOTHER WAY).--Proceed as in making an ordinary potato pie. -Add a small bottle of tomato conserve, cover with paste, and bake in the -ordinary way. - - -POTATO PIE.--Peel and slice up some potatoes as thin as possible. At the -same time slice up some onions. If Spanish onions are used allow equal -quantities of potatoes and onions, but if ordinary onions are used allow -only half this quantity. Place a layer of sliced onion and sliced potato -alternately. Add some pepper, salt, and sufficient butter to moisten the -potato and butter before any water is added. Pour in some water and add a -teaspoonful of chopped parsley, cover the pie with paste, and bake in the -ordinary way. - - -POTATO PIE (ANOTHER WAY).--Butter a shallow pie-dish rather thickly. Line -the edges with a good crust, and then fill the pie with mashed potatoes -seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Lay over them some small -lumps of butter, hard-boiled eggs, blanched almonds, sliced dates, sliced -lemon and candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry and bake the pie in a -well-heated oven for half an hour or more, according to the size of the -pie. - - -PUMPKIN PIE.--Peel a ripe pumpkin and chip off the rind or skin, halve it, -and take out the seed and fluffy part in the centre, which throw away. Cut -the pumpkin into small, thin slices, fill a pie-dish therewith, add to it -half a teaspoonful of allspice and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a small -quantity of water. Cover with a nice light paste and bake in the ordinary -way. Pumpkin pie is greatly unproved by being eaten with Devonshire cream -and sugar. An equal quantity of apples with the pumpkin will make a still -more delicious pie. - - -PUMPKIN PUDDING.--Take a large pumpkin, pare it, and remove the seeds. Cut -half of it into thin slices, and boil these gently in water until they are -quite soft, then rub them through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden -spoon. Measure the pulp, and with each pint put four ounces of butter and -a large nutmeg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, then -add the third of a pint of hot milk and four well-beaten eggs. Pour the -pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven for about an -hour. Sugar may be added to taste. - - -POTATO CHEESECAKE.--(_See_ CHEESECAKES.) - - -CHEESE WITH FRIED BREAD.--Take some stale bread, and cut it into strips -about three inches long and one wide and one inch thick. Fry the bread in -some butter or oil till it is a nice bright golden colour. Spread a layer -of made mustard over the strips of fried bread, and then cover them with -grated Parmesan cheese, pile them up on a dish, and place them in the oven. -As soon as the cheese begins to melt serve them very hot. - - -CHEESE, SAVOURY.--Take equal quantities of grated Parmesan cheese, butter, -and flour; add a little salt and cayenne pepper, make these into a paste -with some water, roll out the paste thin till it is about a quarter of an -inch thick; cut it into strips and bake them in the oven till they are a -nice brown, and serve hot. - - -CHEESE SOUFFLE.--(_See_ OMELETS.) - - -CHEESE PUDDING.--Mix half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese with four eggs, -well beaten up; mix in also two ounces of butter, which should be first -beaten to a cream, add half a pint of milk and pour the mixture into a -well-buttered pie-dish, sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese over the top, -and bake in the oven for about half an hour. The pudding will be lighter -if two of the whites of eggs are beaten to a stiff froth. The edge of the -pie-dish can be lined with puff-paste. - - -CHEESE RAMEQUINS.--Put half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese in a stew-pan -with a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pint of water; add a -little pepper and salt, and as much flour as will make the whole into a -thick paste. Mix up with the paste as many well-beaten-up eggs as will -make the paste not too liquid to be moulded into a shape. The eggs should -be beaten till they froth. Now, with a tablespoon, mould this mixture into -shapes like a meringue or egg; place these on a buttered tin and bake them -till they are a nice brown colour. - - -CHEESE, STEWED.--When the remains of cheese have got very dry it is a good -plan to use it up in the shape of stewed cheese. Break up the cheese and -put it in a small stew-pan with about a quarter its weight of butter; add a -little milk, and let the cheese stew gently till it is dissolved. At the -finish, and when you have removed it from the fire, add a well-beaten-up -egg. This can be served on toast, or it can be poured on to a dish and -pieces of toasted bread stuck in it. - - -CHEESE STRAWS.--Mix equal quantities of grated Parmesan cheese, grated -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve, butter, and flour; -add a little cayenne and grated nutmeg. Make it into a thick paste, roll -it out very thin, cut it into strips, and bake for a few minutes in a -fierce oven. - - -CHEESE, TOASTED.--This is best done in a Dutch oven, so that when one side -is toasted you can turn the oven and toast the back; as soon as the cheese -begins to melt it is done. As it gets cold very quickly, and when cold -gets hard, it is best served on hot-water plates. - - -CHEESE, DEVILLED.--Chop up some hot pickles, add some cayenne pepper and -mustard. Melt some cheese in a stew-pan with a little butter, mix in the -pickles, and serve on toast. - - -WELSH RAREBIT.--Toast a large slice of bread; in the meantime melt some -cheese in the saucepan with a little butter. When the cheese is melted it -will be found that a good deal of oiled butter floats on the top. Pour -this over the dry toast first, and then pour the melted cheese afterwards. -Some persons add a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce to the cheese, and others -a tablespoonful of good old Burton ale over the top. - - -AYOLI.--This is a dish almost peculiar to the South of France. Soak some -crusts of bread in water, squeeze them dry, and add two cloves of garlic -chopped fine, six blanched almonds, also chopped very fine, and a yolk of -an egg; mix up the whole into a smooth paste with a little oil. - - -PUMPKIN A LA PARMESANE.--Cut a large pumpkin into square pieces and boil -them for about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, and take them out, -drain them, and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter, salt, and -grated nutmeg; fry them, sprinkle them with a little Parmesan cheese, and -bake them for a short time in the oven till the cheese begins to melt, and -then serve. This is an Italian recipe. - - -ZUCCHETTI FARCIS.--Take some very small gourds or pumpkins, boil them for -about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, and then fill them with a -forcemeat made as follows: Take some crumb of bread and soak it in milk, -squeeze it and add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and two raw yolks; -chop up very finely half a dozen blanched almonds with a couple of cloves; -add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little salt and grated -nutmeg. Stew these gourds in butter and serve them with white sauce. - - -STUFFED ONIONS (ITALIAN FASHION).--Parboil some large onions, stamp out the -core after they have been allowed to get quite cold in a little water; fill -the inside with forcemeat similar to the above; fry then), squeeze the -juice of a lemon over them, with a little pepper. - - -POLENTA.--Polenta is made from ground Indian corn, and is seen in Italian -shop-windows in the form of a yellow powder; it is made into a paste with -boiling water, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, and baked in the oven. - - -PIROSKI SERNIKIS.--This dish is met with in Poland, and is made by mixing -up two pounds of cream-cheese, three-quarters of a pound of fine -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve, six eggs well -beaten up; add a little cream or milk, four ounces of washed grocer's -currants, one ounce of sugar, half a grated nutmeg; and when the whole is -thoroughly mixed add as much flour as is necessary to make the whole into a -paste that can be rolled into balls. These balls should not be much bigger -than a walnut. Flour them, and then flatten them into little cakes and fry -them a nice brown in some butter. - -Of course, a smaller quantity can be made by using these ingredients in -proportion. - - -NALESNIKIS (POLISH PANCAKES).--Take eight eggs and beat them up very -thoroughly with about a pint and a half of milk, or still better, cream, -two ounces of butter that has been oiled, half a grated nutmeg, and about a -dozen lumps of sugar that have been rubbed on the outside of a lemon; mix -in sufficient flour--about three-quarters of a pound will be required--to -make the whole into a very smooth batter. Melt a little butter in a -frying-pan, pour it all over the pan, and when it frizzles, pour in some of -the batter, and sprinkle over a few currants; when the pancake is fried, -shake some powdered sugar over it, roll it up like an ordinary pancake, and -serve hot. - - -FRITTERS. - -BATTER FOR SAVOURY FRITTERS.--Put six ounces of flour into a basin, with a -pinch of salt, the yolk of one egg, and a quarter of a pint of warm water. -Work this round and round with a wooden spoon till it is perfectly smooth -and looks like thick cream. About half an hour before the batter is wanted -for use whip the white of one egg to a stiff froth and mix it lightly in. - - -MUSHROOM FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom forcemeat; let it get quite cold on -a dish about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out some small rounds, about -the size of a penny-piece. They fry better if slightly oval. Have ready -some thick batter (_See_ BATTER). Have also ready in a saucepan some -boiling oil, which should be heated to about 350 degrees. Place a -frying-basket in the saucepan, flour the rounds of mushroom forcemeat so as -to make them perfectly dry on the outside. Dip these pieces into the -batter and throw them into the boiling oil. The great heat of the oil will -set the batter before the mushroom force-meat has time to melt. Directly -the batter is a nice light-brown colour, lift them out of the boiling oil -with the frying-basket, and throw them on to a cloth to drain. Break off -the outside pieces of batter, and serve the fritters on a neatly folded -napkin on a dish surrounded by fried parsley. - -The beauty of these fritters is that when they are eaten the inside is -moist, owing, of course, to the heat having melted the forcemeat. - - -TOMATO FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom forcemeat and spread it out as thin as -possible. Take some ripe tomatoes, cut them in slices, dip the slice in -vinegar, drain it and pepper it, and then wrap this thin slice of tomato in -a layer of mushroom forcemeat. Bring the edges together, flour it, dip it -into batter (_see_ BATTER), and throw it into boiling oil as in making -mushroom fritters (_see_ MUSHROOM FRITTERS). - - -IMITATION GAME FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom force-meat as directed under -the heading "Mushroom Forcemeat," with the addition of, when you fry the -mushrooms, chop up and fry with them two heads of garlic, and add a -saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. (These, are sold in bottles by -all grocers under the name of "Herbaceous Mixture.") Then proceed exactly -as if you were making mushroom fritters (_see_ MUSHROOM FRITTERS). - - -HOMINY FRITTERS.--These are made from remains of cold boiled hominy, cut in -thin slices, which must be dipped in batter and fried in boiling oil. - - -CHEESE FRITTERS.--Pound some dry cheese, or take about three ounces of -Parmesan cheese, and mix it with a few bread-crumbs, a piece of butter, a -pinch of cayenne pepper, and the yolk of an egg, till the whole becomes a -thick paste. Roll the mixture into very small balls, flatten them, flour -them, dip them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil in the ordinary -way. Put them in the oven for five minutes before serving them. - - -SAGE AND ONION FRITTERS.--Make some ordinary sage and onion stuffing, -allowing one fresh sage leaf or two dried to each parboiled onion; add -pepper and salt and dried breadcrumbs. Now moisten the whole with -clarified butter, till the mixture becomes a moist pulp. When it begins to -get cold and sets, roll it into small balls, the size of a very small -walnut, flatten these and let them get quite cold, then flour them, dip -them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil; remove them with the -frying-basket, and serve with fried parsley. - - -SPINACH FRITTERS.--Make a little thick puree of spinach, add a pinch of -savoury herbs containing marjoram; mix in a little clarified butter and one -or two lumps of sugar rubbed on the outside of a lemon, as well as a little -grated nutmeg. Roll the mixture into very small ball; or else they will -break, flatten them, flour them, dip them into batter, and throw them into -boiling oil, and serve immediately. - - -FRITTERS, SWEET.--In making sweet fritters, the same kind of batter will do -as we used for making savoury fritters, though many cooks add a little -powdered sugar. The same principles hold good. The oil must be heated to -a temperature of 350 degrees, and a frying-basket must be used. Instead of -flouring the substances employed to make them dry, before being dipped into -the batter, which is an essential point in making fritters, we must use -finely powdered sugar, and it will be found a saving of both time and -trouble to buy pounded sugar for the purpose. It is sold by grocers under -the name of castor sugar. We cannot make this at home in a pestle and -mortar to the same degree of fineness any more than we could grind our own -flour. We cannot compete with machinery. - - -APPLE FRITTERS.--Peel some apples, cut them in slices across the core, and -stamp out the core. It is customary, where wine, &c., is not objected to, -to soak these rings of apples for several hours in a mixture of brandy, -grated lemon or orange peel and sugar, or better still, to rub some lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon or orange and dissolve this in the -brandy. Of course, brandy is not necessary, but the custom is worth -mentioning. The rings of apple can be soaked for some time in syrup -flavoured this way. They must then be made dry by being dipped in powdered -sugar, then dipped into batter and thrown, one at a time, into a saucepan -containing smoking hot oil in which a wire frying-basket has been placed. -Directly the fritters are a nice brown, take them out, break off the rough -pieces, shake some finely powdered sugar over them, pile them up on a dish, -and serve. - - -APRICOT FRITTERS.--These can be made from fresh apricots or tinned ones, -not too ripe; if they break they are not fitted. When made from fresh -apricots they should be peeled, cut in halves, the round end removed, -dipped in powdered sugar, then dipped in batter, thrown into boiling oil, -and finished like apple fritters. Some persons soak the apricots in -brandy. - - -BANANA FRITTERS.--Banana fritters can be made from the bananas as sold in -this country, and it is a mistake to think that when they are black outside -they are bad. When in this state they are sometimes sold as cheap as six a -penny. Peel the bananas, cut them into slices half an inch thick, dip them -into finely powdered sugar and then into batter, and finish as directed in -apple fritters. - -Some persons soak the slices of banana in maraschino. - - -CUSTARD FRITTERS.--Take half a pint of cream in which some cinnamon and -lemon have been boiled, add to this five yolks of eggs, a little flour, and -about three ounces of sugar. Put this into a pie-dish, well buttered, and -steam it till the custard becomes quite set; then let it get cold, and cut -it into slices about half an inch thick and an inch and a half long, -sprinkle each piece with a little powdered cinnamon, and make it quite dry -with some powdered sugar. Then dip each piece into batter, throw them one -by one into boiling oil, and finish as directed for apple fritters. - - -ALMOND FRITTERS, CHOCOLATE FRITTERS, COFFEE FRITTERS, VANILLA FRITTERS, -&c.--These fritters are made exactly in the same way as custard fritters, -only substituting powdered chocolate, pounded almonds, essence of coffee, -or essence of vanilla, for the powdered cinnamon. - - -FRANGIPANE FRITTERS.--Make a Frangipane cream by mixing eggs with a little -cold potato, butter, sugar, and powdered ratafias, the proportion being a -quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, six ounces of sugar, one cold -floury potato, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias. Bake or steam this -until it is set, and proceed as in custard fritters. Many persons add the -flavouring of a little rum. - - -PEACH FRITTERS.--These are made exactly similar to apricot fritters, -bearing in mind that if they are made from tinned peaches only the firm -pieces, and not pulpy ones, must be used for the purpose. Proceed exactly -as directed for apricot fritters. - -If any liqueur is used, noyeau is best adapted for the purpose. - - -POTATO FRITTERS.--Mix up some floury potato with a quarter of a pound of -butter, a well-beaten-up egg, and three ounces of sugar, some of which has -been rubbed on the outside of a lemon. The addition of a little cream is a -great improvement. Roll the mixture into small balls and flour them; they -are then fried just as they are, without being dipped into batter. - - -PINE-APPLE FRITTERS.--These can be made from fresh pine-apples or tinned. -They should be cut into slices like apple fritters if the pine-apple is -small, but if the pine-apple is large they can be cut into strips three -inches long and one wide and half an inch thick. These must be dipped in -powdered sugar, then into batter, and finished as directed for apple -fritters. - -If any liqueur is used, maraschino is best adapted to the purpose. - -ORANGE FRITTERS.--Only first-class oranges are adapted for this purpose. -Thick-skinned and woolly oranges are no use. Peel a thin-skinned ripe -orange, divide each orange into about six pieces, soak these in a syrup -flavoured with sugar rubbed on the outside of an orange, and if liqueur is -used make the syrup with brandy. After they have soaked some time, remove -any pips, dip each piece into hatter, and proceed as directed for apple -fritters. - - -CREAM FRITTERS.--Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, pound -them, and mix with a little cream; take some small pieces of stale white -cake, such as Madeira cake or what the French call brioche. Soak these -pieces of stale cake, which must be cut small and thin, or they will break, -in the orange-flavoured cream, dry each piece in some finely-powdered -sugar, dip it into batter, and proceed as directed for making apple -fritters. - - -GERMAN FRITTERS.--Take some small stale pieces of cake, and soak them in a -little milk or cream flavoured with essence of vanilla and sweetened with a -little sugar. Take them out, and let them get a little dry on the outside, -then dip them in a well-beaten-up egg, cover them with bread-crumbs, and -fry a nice golden-brown colour. - - -RICE AND GINGER FRITTERS.--Boil a small quantity of rice in milk and add -some preserved ginger chopped small, some sugar, and one or more eggs, -sufficient to set the mixture when baked in a pie-dish. Bake till set, -then cut into slices about two inches long, an inch wide, and half an inch -thick; dry these pieces with powdered sugar, dip into batter, and finish as -directed for making apple fritters. - - -RICE FRITTERS.--A variety of fritters could be made from a small baked rice -pudding, flavoured with various kinds of essences, spices, orange -marmalade, peach marmalade, fresh lime marmalade, apricot jam, &c., -proceeding exactly as directed above. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -VEGETABLES. - -SUBSTANTIAL VEGETABLES. - - -Vegetables may be roughly divided into two classes--those that may be -called substantial and which are adapted to form a meal in themselves, and -those of a lighter kind, which cannot be said to make a sufficient repast -unless eaten with bread. - -Potatoes were first introduced into this country about 400 years ago, -tobacco being introduced about the same period, and we cannot disguise the -fact that there are many who regard the latter as the greater blessing of -the two. If Sir Henry Thompson is right in stating that tobacco is the -great ally of temperance, there may be some ground for this opinion. - -Potatoes form an important article of food for the body, while, whatever -effect tobacco may have upon the thinking powers of mankind, it is almost -the only product of the vegetable kingdom that is absolutely uneatable even -when placed within the reach of those in the last stage of starvation. - -In some parts, especially in Ireland, potatoes form almost the only food of -the population, just as rice does in hotter climates, and when the crop -fails famine ensues. When potatoes form the only kind of food, a very -large quantity has to be eaten by a hard-working man in order for him to -receive sufficient nourishment to keep his body healthy, the amount -required being not less than ten pounds per day. If, on the other hand, a -certain amount of fat or oil of some kind be mixed with them, a far less -quantity will suffice. Hence we find in Ireland that, wherever it is -possible, either some kind of oily fish, such as herring, is taken with -them, or, which is much more to the point with vegetarians, a certain -quantity of fat is obtained in the shape of milk. - -It must also be remembered that four pounds of raw potatoes contain only -one pound of solid food, the remaining three pounds being water. It is -important, for those who first commence a vegetarian diet, to remember that -vegetables like peas, haricot beans, and lentils are far superior to -potatoes so far as nourishment is concerned, for many are apt to jump to -the conclusion that potatoes are the very best substitute for bread and -milk. So, too, is oatmeal. A Scotchman requires a far less quantity of -oatmeal to sustain life than an Irishman does potatoes; hence it is a very -important point to remember that, if we depend upon potatoes to any great -extent for our daily food, we should cook them in such a manner as to -entail as little waste as possible. We will now try and explain, as -briefly as possible, the best method of serving. - - -POTATOES, PLAIN BOILED.--The best method of having potatoes, if we wish to -study economy, is to boil them in their jackets, as it is generally -admitted that the most nourishing part is that which lies nearest to the -skin. There are many houses in the country where an inexperienced cook -will peel, say four pounds of potatoes, and throw the peel into the -pig-tub, where the pig gets a better meal than the family. - -When potatoes are boiled in their skins, they should be thoroughly washed -and scrubbed with a hard brush. Old potatoes should be put into cold -water, and when the water boils the time should a good deal depend upon the -size of the potatoes. When the potatoes are large, the chief principle to -be borne in mind is, do not let them boil too quickly or cook too quickly. -We must avoid having the outside pulpy while the inside is hard. The -water, which should be slightly salted, should more than cover them, and, -if the potatoes are very large, directly the water comes to the boil it is -a good plan to throw in a little cold water to take it off the boil. It is -quite impossible to lay down any exact law in regard to boiling potatoes. -We cannot do more than give general principles which can only be carried -out by cooks who possess a little common sense. - -Small new potatoes are an extreme in one direction. They should be thrown -into boiling water, and are generally cooked in about ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour. Large old potatoes should be put into cold water and, -as we have stated, the water should not be allowed to boil too soon, and it -will take very often an hour to boil them properly. Between these two -extremes there is a gradually ascending scale which must be left to the -judgment of the cook. It is as impossible to lay down any hard-and-fast -line with regard to time in boiling potatoes as it would be to say at what -exact point in the thermometer between freezing and 80 degrees in the shade -a man should put on his top coat. - -If we may be allowed the expression, "old new" potatoes should be thrown -into neither boiling water nor cold water, but lukewarm water. Again, in -boiling potatoes, especially in the case of old ones, some little allowance -must be made for the time of year. In winter, they require longer time, -and we may here mention the fact that it is very important that potatoes, -after they are dug, should not be left out of doors and exposed to a hard -frost, as in this case a chemical change takes place in which the starch is -converted into sugar. - -When potatoes are boiled in their jackets sufficiently, which fact is -generally tested by sticking a steel fork into them, they should be -strained off, and allowed to get dry for a few minutes in the saucepan, -which should be removed from the fire, as at times the potatoes are apt to -stick and burn. - -When large potatoes are peeled before they are boiled, we should endeavour -to send them to table floury, and this is often said to be the test of a -really good cook. After the water has been strained off from the potatoes, -a dry cloth should be placed under the lid of the saucepan, and the lid -should only be placed half on, _i.e._, it should not be fitted down tight. -It is also as well to give the saucepan now and then a shake, but do not -overdo the shaking and break them. About five or ten minutes is generally -sufficient. - - -POTATOES, STEAMED.--Potatoes can be steamed in their jackets, and it is a -more economical method than peeling. It should be remembered, however, -that steam is hotter than boiling water. If plain water is underneath and -boils furiously, and the steam is well shut in, they will cook very -quickly; but if, as is generally the case, something else is in the -saucepan under the steamer, boiling gently, this does not apply. We refer -to the ordinary steamer met with in private houses, and not to the ones -used in the large hotels and restaurants. - - -POTATOES, BAKED.--When potatoes are baked in the oven in their jackets the -larger they are the better. The oven must not be too fierce, and ample -time should be allowed. Baked potatoes require quite two hours. This only -refers to those baked in their jackets. When potatoes are cut up and baked -in a tin they require some kind of fat, which, of course, in vegetarian -cookery must be either oil or butter. - - -POTATOES, MASHED.--What may be termed high-class mashed potatoes are made -by mashing up ordinary boiled potatoes with a little milk _previously -boiled_, a little butter, and passing the whole through a wire sieve, when -a little cream, butter and salt is added. - -In private houses mashed potatoes are generally made from the remains of -cold boiled potatoes, or when the cook, in boiling the potatoes, has made a -failure. Still, of course, potatoes are boiled often expressly for the -purpose of being mashed. This is often the case where old potatoes have to -be cut into all sorts of shapes and sizes in order to get rid of the black -spots. As soon as the potatoes are boiled they are generally moistened in -the saucepan with a little drop of milk. It is undoubtedly an improvement, -and also entails very little extra trouble, to boil the milk first. There -is a difference in flavour, which is very marked, between milk that has -been boiled and raw milk. Suppose you have coffee for breakfast, add -boiling milk to one cup and raw milk to another, and then see how great a -difference there will be in the flavour of the two. A little butter should -be added to mashed potatoes, but it is not really essential. Mashed -potatoes can be served in the shape of a mould, that is, they can be shaped -in a mould and then browned in the oven. If you serve mashed potatoes in -an ordinary dish, and pile them up in the shape of a dome, the dish will -look much prettier if you score it round with a fork and then place the -dish in a fairly fierce even; the edges will brown, but be careful that -they don't get burnt black. - - -POTATOES, FRIED.--The best lesson, if you wish to fry potatoes nicely, is -to look in at the window of a fried fish shop, where every condition is -fulfilled that is likely to lead to perfection. The bath of oil is deep -and smoking hot, and in sufficient quantity not to lose greatly in -temperature on the introduction of the frying-basket containing the -potatoes. The potatoes must be cut up into small pieces, not much bigger -in thickness than the little finger; these are plunged into the smoking hot -oil, and as soon as they are _slightly_ browned on the outside they are -done. They acquire a darker colour after they are removed from the oil, -and the inside will go on cooking for several minutes. It would be quite -impossible to eat fried potatoes directly they are taken out of the fat, as -they would burn the mouth terribly. It is best to throw the fried potatoes -into a cloth for a few seconds. - - -POTATO CHIPS.--Potato chips are ordinary fried potatoes cut up when raw -into little pieces about the size and thickness of a lucifer match. They, -of course, will cook very quickly. They should be removed from the oil -directly they _begin_ to turn colour. - - -POTATO RIBBON.--Potato ribbon is simply ordinary fried potatoes, in which -the raw potato is cut in the shape of a ribbon. You take a potato and peel -it in the ordinary way. You then take this and, with not too sharp a -knife, peel it like apple, making the strip as long as you can, like -children sometimes do when they throw the apple peel over their shoulders -to see what letter it will make. You can go on peeling the potato round -and round till there is none left. These ribbons are thrown into boiling -oil, and must be removed as soon as they begin to turn colour. When piled -up in a dish they look very pretty, and with a little pepper and salt, and -a squeeze of lemon-juice, make an excellent meal when eaten with bread. - - -POTATO SAUTE.--This dish is more frequently met with abroad than in -England, except in foreign restaurants. It is made by taking the remains -of ordinary plain-boiled potatoes that are not floury. These are cut up -into small pieces about the size of the thumb, no particular shape being -necessary. They are thrown into a frying-pan with a little butter, and -fried gently till the edges begin to brown; they are served with chopped -parsley and pepper and salt. The butter should be poured over the -potatoes, and supplies the fatty element which potato lacks. - - -POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.--These are very similar to potato saute, the -difference being that they are not browned at the edges. Small kidney -potatoes are best for the purpose. These must be boiled till tender, and -the potatoes then cut into slices. These must be warmed up with a spoonful -or two of white sauce (_see_ WHITE SAUCE), to which is added some chopped -parsley and a little lemon-juice. A more common way is to boil the -potatoes, slice them up while hot, and then toss them about in a -vegetable-dish lightly with a lump of what is called Maitre d'hotel butter. -This is simply a lump of plain cold butter, mixed with chopped parsley, -till it looks like a lump of cold parsley and butter. When tossed about -squeeze a little lemon-juice over the whole and serve. - - -POTATOES, NEW.--New potatoes should be washed and the skin, if necessary, -rubbed off with the fingers; they should be thrown into boiling water, -slightly salted, and as a rule require from fifteen to five-and-twenty -minutes to boil before they are done. During the last few minutes throw in -one or two sprigs of fresh mint, drain them off and let there dry, and then -place them in a vegetable-dish with the mint and a little piece of butter, -in which the potatoes should be boiled to give them a shiny appearance -outside. - -New potatoes can also be served with a little white sauce to which has been -added a little chopped parsley. - -POTATO BALLS.--Mash some boiled potatoes with a little butter, pepper, -salt, chopped parsley, chopped onion, or still better, shallot, and add a -few savoury herbs. Mix up one or two or more well-beaten eggs, according -to the quantity of potato, roll the mixture into balls, flour them, and fry -them a nice brown colour, and serve. - - -POTATO CROQUETTES OR CUTLETS.--These are very similar to potato balls, only -they should be smaller and more delicately flavoured. The potatoes are -boiled and mashed, and, if the croquettes are wished to be very good, one -or two hard-boiled yolks of eggs should be mixed with them. The mixture is -slightly flavoured with shallot, savoury herbs or thyme, chopped parsley, -and a little nutmeg. One or two fresh well-beaten-up eggs are now added, -the mixture then rolled into small balls no bigger than a walnut. These -are then dipped in well-beaten-up egg, and then bread-crumbed. The balls -are fried a nice golden-brown colour and served. - -Potato cutlets are exactly the same, only instead of shaping the mixture -into a little ball, the ball is flattened into the shape of a small oval -cutlet. These are then egged, bread-crumbed, and fried, but before being -sent to table a small piece of green parsley stalk is stuck in one end to -represent the bone of the cutlet. These little cutlets, placed on an -ornamental sheet of white paper, at the bottom of the silver dish, look -very pretty. A small heap of fried parsley should be placed in the centre -of the dish. - - -POTATO PIE.--(_See_ SAVOURY DISHES, p. 112.) - - -POTATO CHEESECAKE.--(_See_ CHEESECAKES, p. 169.) - - -POTATO SALADS.--(_See_ SALADS, p. 101.) - - -POTATO, BORDER OF.--A very pretty dish can be made by making a border of -mashed potatoes, hollow in the centre, in which can be placed various kinds -of other vegetables, such as haricot beans, stewed peas, &c. The mashed -potato should be mixed with one or two well-beaten-up eggs, and the outside -of the border can be moulded by hand, to make it look smooth and neat; a -piece of flexible tin, flat, will be found very useful, or even a piece of -cardboard. If you wish to make the border ornamental, you can proceed -exactly as directed under the heading Rice Borders, and if it is wished to -make the dish particularly handsome, it can be painted outside, before -being placed in the oven, with a yolk of egg beaten up with a tiny drop of -hot water. When this is done, the potato border has an appearance similar -in colour to the rich pastry generally seen outside a pie, or _vol au -vent_. The inside of the potato border after it has been scooped out can -be filled with plain boiled macaroni mixed with Parmesan cheese, and -ornamented with a little chopped parsley on the top and a few small baked -red ripe tomatoes. Again, it can be filled with white haricot beans piled -up in the shape of a dome, with some chopped parsley sprinkled over the -top. There are, perhaps, few dishes in vegetarian cookery that can be made -to look more elegant. - - -POTATO BISCUITS (_M. Ude's Recipe_).--Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the -yolks into one pan and the whites into another. Beat the yolks with a -pound of sugar pounded very fine, scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of -sugar, dry that and pound it fine also; then throw into it the yolks, and -work the eggs and sugar till they are of a whitish colour. Next whip the -whites well and mix them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound of flour of -potatoes through a silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. Have some paper -cases ready, which lay on a plafond with some paper underneath. Fill the -cases, but not too full; glaze the contents with some rather coarse sugar, -and bake the whole in an oven moderately heated. - - -POTATO BREAD.--In making bread, a portion of mashed potato is sometimes -added to the flour, and this addition improves the bread very much for some -tastes; it also keeps it from getting dry quite so soon. At the same time -it is not so nutritious as ordinary home-made bread. Boil the required -quantity of potatoes in their skins, drain and dry them, then peel and -weigh them. Pound them with the rolling-pin until they are quite free from -lumps, and mix with them the flour in the proportion of seven pounds of -flour to two and a half pounds of potatoes. Add the yeast and knead in the -ordinary way, but make up the bread with milk instead of water. When the -dough is well risen, bake the bread in a gentle oven. Bake it a little -longer than for ordinary bread, and, when it seems done enough, let it -stand a little while, with the oven-door open, before taking it out. -Unless these precautions are taken, the crust will be hard and brittle, -while the inside is still moist and doughy. This recipe is from "Cassell's -Dictionary of Cookery." - - -POTATO CAKE.--Take a dozen good-sized potatoes and hake them in the oven -till done, then peel and put them into a saucepan with a little salt and -grated lemon-peel; set them upon the stove and put in a piece of fresh -butter and stir the whole; add a little cream and sugar, still continuing -to stir them; then let them cool a little and add some orange-flower water, -eight yolks of eggs and four only of whites, whisked into froth; heat up -the whole together and mix it with the potato puree. Butter a mould and -sprinkle it with bread-crumbs; pour in the paste, place the pan upon hot -cinders, with fire upon the lid, and let it remain for three-quarters of an -hour, or it may be baked in an oven. - - -POTATO CHEESE.--Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed in Germany; they -can be made of various qualities, but care must be taken that they are not -too rich and have not too much heat, or they will burst. Boil the potatoes -till they are soft, but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes must be -large and of the best quality. When boiled, carefully peel them and beat -them to a smooth paste in a mortar with a wooden pestle. To make the -commonest cheese, put five pounds of potato paste into a cheese-tub with -one pound of milk and rennet; add a sufficient quantity of salt, together -with caraways and cumin seed sufficient to impart a good flavour. Knead -all these ingredients well together, cover up and allow them to stand three -or four days in winter, two to three in summer. At the end of that time -knead them again, put the paste into wicker moulds, and leave the cheeses -to drain until they are quite dry. When dry and firm, lay them on a board -and leave them to acquire hardness gradually in a place of very moderate -warmth; should the heat be too great, as we have said, they will burst. -When, in spite of all precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices of -the burst cheeses are, in Germany, filled with curds and cream mixed, some -being also put over the whole surface of the cheese, which is then dried -again. As soon as the cheeses are thoroughly dry and hard, place them in -barrels with green chickweed between each cheese; let them stand for about -three weeks, when they will be fit for use. - - -POTATOES A LA BARIGOULE.--Peel some potatoes and boil them in a little -water with some oil, pepper, salt, onions, and savoury herbs. Boil them -slowly, so that they can absorb the liquor; when they are done, brown them -in a stew-pan in a little oil, and serve them to be eaten with oil and -vinegar, pepper and salt. - - -POTATOES, BROILED.--Potatoes are served this way sometimes in Italy. They -are first boiled in their skins, but not too long. They are then taken out -and peeled, cut into thin slices, placed on a gridiron, and grilled till -they are crisp. A little oil is poured over them when they are served. - - -POTATOES A LA LYONNAISE.--First boil and then peel and slice some potatoes. -Make some rather thin puree of onion. (_See_ SAUCE SOUBISE.) Pour this -over the potatoes and serve. - -Another way is to first brown the slices of potatoes and then serve them -with the onion sauce, with the addition of a little vinegar or lemon-juice. - - -POTATOES A LA PROVENCALE.--Put a small piece of butter into a stew-pan, or -three tablespoonfuls of oil, three beads of garlic, the peel of a quarter -of a lemon, and some parsley, all chopped up very fine; add a little grated -nutmeg, pepper and salt. Peel some small potatoes and let them stew till -they are tender in this mixture. Large potatoes can be used for the -purpose, only they must be cut tip into pieces. Add the juice of a lemon -before serving. - - -HARICOT BEANS.--It is very much to be regretted that haricot beans are not -more used in this country. There are hundreds of thousands of families who -at the end of a year would be richer in purse and more healthy in body if -they would consent to deviate from the beaten track and try haricot beaus, -not as an accompaniment to a dish of meat, but as an article of diet in -themselves. The immense benefit derived in innumerable cases from a diet -of beans is one of the strongest and most practical arguments in favour of -vegetarianism. Meat-eaters often boast of the plainness of their food, and -yet wonder that they suffer in health. It is not an uncommon thing for a -man to consult his doctor and to tell him, "I live very simply, nothing but -plain roast or boiled." - -Medical men are all agreed on one point, and that is that haricot beans -rank almost first among vegetables as a nourishing article of diet. In -writing on this subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes, "Let me recall, at -the close of these few hints about the haricot, the fact that there is no -product of the vegetable kingdom so nutritious, holding its own, in this -respect, as it well can, even against the beef and mutton of the animal -kingdom." - -This is a very strong statement, coming as it does from so high an -authority, and vegetarians would do well to hear it in mind when discussing -the subject of vegetarianism with those who differ from them. Sir Henry -proceeds as follows:--"The haricot ranks just above lentils, which have -been so much praised of late, and rightly, the haricot being to most -palates more agreeable. By most stomachs, too, haricots are more easily -digested than meat is; and, consuming weight for weight, the eater feels -lighter and less oppressed, as a rule, after the leguminous dish, while the -comparative cost is very greatly in favour of the latter." - -To boil haricot beans proceed as follows. We refer, of course, to the -dried white haricot beans, the best of which are those known as Soissons. -The beans should be soaked in cold water overnight, and in the morning any -that may be found floating on the top of the water should be thrown away. -Suppose the quantity be a quart; place these in a saucepan with two quarts -of cold water, slightly salted. As soon as time water conies to the boil, -move it so that the beans will only simmer gently; they must then continue -simmering till they are tender. This generally takes about three hours, -and if the water is hard, it is advisable to put in a tiny piece of soda. -This is the simple way of cooking beans usually recommended in -cookery-books when they are served up with a dish of meat, such as a leg of -mutton a la Bretonne, where the beans are served in some rich brown gravy -containing fat. In vegetarian cookery, of course, we must proceed entirely -differently, and there are various ways in which this nourishing dish can -be served, as savoury and as appetising, and indeed more so, than if we had -assistance from the slaughter-house. We will now proceed to give a few -instances. - -In the first place, it will greatly assist the flavour of the beans if we -boil with them one or two onions and a dessertspoonful of savoury herbs. -Supposing, however, we have them boiled plain. Take a large dry crust of -bread and rub the outside well over with one or two beads of garlic. Place -this crust of bread with the beans after they have been strained off, and -toss them lightly about with the crust without breaking the beans. Remove -the crust and moisten the beans while hot with a lump of butter, add a -brimming dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley; squeeze the juice of -a lemon over the whole, and serve. Instead of butter we can add, as they -always do in Italy, two or three tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Those -who have conquered the unreasonable English prejudice against the use of -oil will probably find this superior to butter. - -If the beans are served in the form of a puree, it is always best to boil a -few onions with them and rub the onions through the wire sieve with the -beans, taking care that the quantity of onion is not so large that it -destroys and overpowers the delicate and delicious flavour of the beans -themselves. - -Next, we would call attention to the importance of not throwing away the -water in which the beans were boiled. This water contains far more -nourishment than people are aware of, and throughout the length and breadth -of France, where economy is far more understood than in this country, it is -invariably saved to assist in making some kind of soup, and as our soup -will, of course, be vegetarian, the advantage gained is simply -incalculable. - - -FLAGEOLETS.--These are haricot beans in the fresh green state, and are -rarely met with in this country, though they form a standing dish abroad. -They are exceedingly nice, and can be cooked in a little butter like the -French cook green peas. They are often flavoured with garlic, and chopped -parsley can be added to them. Those who are fond of this vegetable in the -fresh state can obtain them in tins from any high-class grocer, as the -leading firms in this country keep them in this form for export. - - -PEAS, DRIED.--Dried peas, like dried beans, contain a very great amount of -nourishment. Indeed, in this respect, practically, dried beans, dried -peas, and lentils may be considered equal. Dried peas are met with in two -forms--the split yellow pea and those that are dried whole, green. Split -peas are chiefly used in this country to make pea soup, or puree of peas -and peas pudding. We have already given recipes for the two former, and -will now describe how to make-- - - -PEAS PUDDING.--Soak a quart of peas in water overnight, throwing away those -in the morning that are found floating at the top. Drain them off and tie -them up in a pudding-cloth, taking care to leave plenty of room for the -peas to swell; put them into cold water, and boil them till they are -tender. This will take from two to three hours. When tender, take them -out, untie the cloth, and rub them through a colander, or, better still, a -wire sieve. Now mix in a couple of ounces of butter with some pepper and -salt, flour the cloth well and tie it up again and boil it for another -hour, when it can be turned out and served. Peas pudding when eaten alone -is improved by mixing in, at the same time as the butter, a dessertspoonful -of dried powdered mint, also, should you have the remains of any cold -potatoes in the house, it is a very good way of using them up. A few -savoury herbs can be used instead of mint. - - -PEAS "BROSE."--Dr. Andrew, in writing to the "Cyclopaedia of Domestic -Medicine," says, "In the West of Scotland, especially in Glasgow, 'peas -brose,' as it is called, is made of the fine flour of the white pea, by -forming it into a mass merely by the addition of boiling water and a little -salt. It is a favourite dish with not only the working classes, but it is -even esteemed by many of the gentry. It was introduced into fashion -chiefly by the recommendation of Dr. Cleghorn, late Professor of Chemistry -in Glasgow University. The peas brose is eaten with milk or butter, and is -a sweet, nourishing article of diet peculiarly fitted for persons of a -costive habit and for children." - - -PEAS, DRIED WHOLE, GREEN.--This is perhaps the best form with which we meet -peas dried. When the best quality is selected, and care taken in their -preparation, they are quite equal to fresh green peas when they are old. -Indeed, many persons prefer them. - -Soak the peas overnight, throwing away those that float at the top; put -them into cold water, and when they boil let the peas simmer gently till -they are tender. The time varies very much with the quality and the size -of the peas, old ones requiring nearly three hours, others considerably -less. When the peas are tender, throw in some sprigs, if possible, of -fresh mint, and after a minute strain them off; add pepper, salt, and about -two ounces of butter to a quart of peas--though this is not absolutely -necessary--and nearly a dessertspoonful of white powdered sugar. - -If you wish to have the peas as bright a green as freshly gathered ones, -after you strain them off you can mix them in a basin, before you add the -butter, with a little piece of green vegetable colouring (sold in bottles -by all grocers). The peas should then be put back in the saucepan for a -few minutes to be made hot through, and then finished as directed before. - - -PEAS, DRIED, GREEN, WITH CREAM.--Boil the peas as before directed till they -are quite tender, then strain them off and put them in a stew-pan with one -ounce of butter to every quart of peas and toss them lightly about with a -little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Add to each quart of peas a -quarter of a pint of cream and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; -surround the dish with fried or toasted bread. - -LENTILS.--Lentils are, comparatively speaking, a novel form of food in this -country, though they have been used abroad for many years, and a recipe for -cooking them will be found in a well-known work, published in Paris in -1846, entitled "_La Cuisiniere de la Campagne et de la Ville; ou, Nouvelle -Cuisine Economique_," one of the most popular French cookery-books ever -published, and which in that year had reached a circulation of 80,000 -copies. - -Recipes for boiled lentils and lentil soup are given in "Cassell's -Dictionary of Cookery," published in 1875; but it is stated in the -introductory remarks that lentils are little used in England except as food -for pigeons, and adds, "They are seldom offered for sale." Since that date -lentils have become an exceedingly popular form of food in many households, -and vegetarians generally regard them as one of the most nourishing forms -of food served at the table. There are two kinds of lentils, the German -and Egyptian. The Egyptian are red and much smaller than the German, which -are green. The former kind are generally used on the Continent, in Italy -and the South of France, while, as the name implies, the green lentils are -more commonly used in Eastern Europe. Either kind, however, can be used -for making soup and puree, recipes of which have already been given, as -well as for the recipes in the present chapter. - - -LENTILS, BOILED.--The lentils should be placed in soak overnight, and those -that float should be thrown away. Suppose we have half a pint of lentils, -they should be boiled in about a pint and a half of water. Boil them till -they are tender, which will take about half an hour, then drain them off -and put them back in the saucepan for a few minutes with a little piece of -butter, squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon, and serve hot. Some -people make a little thickened sauce with yolks of eggs and a little butter -and flour mixed with the water in which they are boiled. - - -LENTILS, CURRIED.--Lentils are very nice curried. Boil the lentils as -directed above till they are tender. When they are placed in a -vegetable-dish make deep well in the centre and pour some thick curry sauce -into it. (_See_ CURRY SAUCE.) - - -LENTILS A LA PROVENCALE.--Soak the lentils overnight and put them into a -stew-pan with five or six spoonfuls of oil, a little butter, some slices of -onion, some chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs. -Stew them in this till the lentils are tender, and then thicken the sauce -with yolks of eggs, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve. - -N.B.--Haricot beans can be cooked in a similar manner. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -VEGETABLES, FRESH. - - -ARTICHOKES, FRENCH, PLAIN BOILED.--Put the artichokes to soak in some well -salted water, upside down, as otherwise it is impossible to get rid of the -insects that are sometimes hidden in the leaves. Trim off the ends of the -leaves and the stalk, and all the hard leaves round the bottom should be -pulled off. Put the artichokes into a saucepan of boiling water -sufficiently deep to nearly cover them. The tips of the leaves are best -left out; add a little salt, pepper, and a spoonful of savoury herbs to the -water in which they are boiled. French cooks generally add a piece of -butter. Boil them till they are tender. The time depends upon the size, -but you can always tell when they are done by pulling out a single leaf. -If it comes out easily the artichokes are done. Drain them off, and -remember in draining them to turn them upside down. Some kind of sauce is -generally served with artichokes separately in a boat, such as butter -sauce, sauce Allemande, or Dutch sauce. - - -ARTICHOKES, BROILED.--Parboil the artichokes and take out the part known as -the choke. In the hollow place a little chopped parsley and light-coloured -bread-raspings soaked in olive oil. Place the bottoms of the artichokes on -a gridiron with narrow bars over a clear fire, and serve them as soon a -they are thoroughly hot through. - - -ARTICHOKES, FRIED.--The bottoms of artichokes after being boiled can be -dipped in batter and fried. - - -ARTICHOKES A LA PROVENCALE.--Parboil the artichokes and remove the choke, -and put them in the oven in a tin with a little oil, pepper and salt, and -three or four heads of garlic, whole. Let them bake till they are tender, -turning them over in the oil occasionally; then take out the garlic and -serve them with the oil poured over them, and add the juice of a lemon. - - -ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, BOILED, PLAIN.--The artichokes must be first washed -and peeled, and should be treated like potatoes in this respect. They -should be thrown into cold water immediately, and it is best to add a -little vinegar to the water. If the artichokes are young, throw them into -boiling water, and they will become tender in about a quarter of an hour or -twenty minutes. It is very important not to over-boil them, as they turn a -bad colour. If any doubt exists as to the age of the artichokes, they had -better be tested with a fork. Immediately they are tender they should be -drained and served. - -Old artichokes must be treated like old potatoes, _i.e._, put originally -into cold water, and when they come to the boiling point allowed to simmer -till tender; but these are best mashed. When the artichokes have been -drained, they can, of course, be served quite plain, but they are best sent -to table with some kind of sauce poured over them, such as Allemande sauce, -Dutch sauce, white sauce, or plain butter sauce. They are greatly improved -in appearance, after a spoonful of sauce has been poured over each -artichoke, if a little blanched chopped parsley is sprinkled over them, and -a few red specks made by colouring a pinch of bread-crumbs by shaking them -with a few drops of cochineal. - -Another very nice way of sending artichokes to table is to place all the -artichokes together in a vegetable-dish, and, after pouring a little white -sauce over each artichoke, to place a fresh-boiled bright green Brussels -sprout between each. The white and green contrast very prettily. - - -JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, FRIED.--Peel and slice the artichokes very thin; -throw these slices into smoking hot oil in which a frying-basket has been -placed. As soon as the artichokes are of bright golden-brown colour, lift -out the frying-basket, shake it while you pepper and salt the artichokes, -and serve very hot. They can be eaten with thin brown bread-and-butter and -lemon-juice, and form a sort of vegetarian whitebait. - - -ARTICHOKES, MASHED.--These are best made from old artichokes. They must be -rubbed through a wire sieve, and the strings left behind. It is best to -mash them up with a little butter, and a spoonful or two of cream is a very -great improvement. - - -ASPARAGUS, BOILED.--Cut the asparagus all the same length by bringing the -green points together, and then trimming the stalks level with a sharp -knife. Throw the asparagus into boiling salted water. Time, from fifteen -to twenty-five minutes, according to thickness. Serve on dry toast, and -send butter sauce to table separate in a tureen. - - -BEANS, BROAD, PLAIN BOILED.--Broad beans, if eaten whole, should be quite -young. They should be thrown into boiling water, salted. They require -about twenty minutes to boil before they are tender. Serve with parsley -and butter sauce. - - -BROAD BEANS, MASHED.--When broad beans get old, the only way to serve them -is to have them mashed. Boil them, and remove the skins, then mash them up -with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and rub them through a wire sieve, -make them hot, and serve. You can if you like boil a few green onions and -a pinch of savoury herbs with the beans, and rub these through the wire -sieve as well. This dish is very cheap and very nourishing. Very young -beans, like very young peas, are more nice than economical. - - -BEANS A LA POULETTE.--Boil some young beans till they are tender, and put -them into a saucepan with a little butter, sugar, pepper, and salt, and -sufficient flour to prevent the butter cooking oily; stew them in this a -short time, _i.e._, till they appear to begin to boil, as the water from -the beans will mix with the butter and flour and look like thin butter -sauce thicken this with one or two yolks of eggs, and serve. - - -BEANS A LA BOURGEOISE.--Place the beans in a saucepan, with a piece of -butter, a small quantity of shallot chopped fine, and a teaspoonful of -savoury herbs; toss them about in this a little time, and then add a little -water, sufficient to moisten them so that they can stew; add a little -sugar, and when tender thicken the water with some beaten-up egg. - - -BEANS, FRENCH, PLAIN BOILED.--French beans are only good when fresh -gathered, and the younger they are the better. When small they can be -boiled whole, in which case they only require the tips cut off and the -string that runs down the side removed. When they are more fully grown -they will require, in addition to being trimmed in this manner, to be cut -into thin strips, and when very old it will be found best to cut them -slanting. They must be thrown into boiling salted water, and boiled till -they are tender. The time for boiling varies with the age; very young ones -will not take more than a quarter of an hour, and if old ones are not -tender in half an hour they had better be made into a puree. As soon as -the beans are tender, drain them off, and serve them very hot; the chief -point to bear in mind, if we wish to have our beans nice, is, they must be -eaten directly they are drained from the water in which they are boiled. -They are spoilt by what is called being kept hot, and possess a marvellous -facility of getting cold in a very short space of time. - -In vegetarian cookery, when beans are eaten without being an accompaniment -to meat, some form of fat is desirable. When the beans are drained we can -add either butter or oil. When a lump of _Maitre d'hotel_ butter is added -they form what the French call _haricots vert a la Maitre d'hotel_. In -this case, a slight suspicion of garlic may be added by rubbing the -stew-pan in which the French beans are tossed together with the _Maitre -d'hotel butter_. When oil is added, a little chopped parsley will be found -an improvement, as well as pepper, salt, and a suspicion of nutmeg. - -French beans are very nice flavoured with oil and garlic, and served in a -border of macaroni. - - -FRENCH BEAN PUDDING.--When French beans are very old they are sometimes -made into a pudding as follows:--They must be trimmed, cut up, boiled, with -or without the addition of a few savoury herbs. They must be then mashed -in a basin, tied up in a well-buttered and then floured cloth, and boiled -for some time longer. The pudding can then be turned out. A still better -way of making a French bean pudding is to rub the beans through the wire -sieve, leaving the strings behind, flavouring the pudding with a few -savoury herbs, a little sugar, pepper, and salt, and, if liked, a suspicion -of garlic; add one or two well-beaten-up eggs, and put the mixture in a -round pudding-basin, and bake it till it sets. This can be turned out on -the centre of a dish, and a few young French beans placed round the base to -ornament it, in conjunction with some pieces of fried bread cut into pretty -shapes. - - -BROCOLI.--Trim the outer leaves off a brocoli, and cut off the stalk even, -so that it will stand upright. Soak the brocoli in salt and water for some -time, in order to get rid of any insects. Throw the brocoli into boiling -water that has been salted, and boil till it is tender, the probable time -for young brocoli being about a quarter of an hour. It should be served on -a dish with the flower part uppermost; and butter sauce, sauce Allemande, -or Dutch sauce can be served separately, or poured over the surface. - -When several heads of brocoli are served at once, it is important to cut -the stalks flat, as directed, before boiling. After they have been -thoroughly drained _upside down_, they should be placed on the dish, flower -part uppermost, and placed together as much as possible to look like one -large brocoli. If sauce is poured over them, the sauce should be -sufficiently thick to be spread, and every part of the flower should be -covered. Half a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley may be sprinkled -over the top, and improves the appearance of the dish. - -N.B.--We would particularly call attention to the importance of draining -brocoli and cauliflower very thoroughly, especially when any sauce is -served with the brocoli. When the dish is cut into, nothing looks more -disagreeable than to see the white sauce running off the brocoli into green -water at the bottom of the dish. - - -BROCOLI GREENS.--The outside leaves of brocoli should not be thrown away, -but eaten. Too often they are trimmed off at the greengrocer's or at the -market, and, we presume, utilised for the purpose of feeding cattle. They -can be boiled exactly like white cabbages, and are equal to them, if not -superior, in flavour. To boil them, _see_ CABBAGE, WHITE, LARGE. - - -BRUSSELS SPROUTS.--These must be first washed in cold water and all the -little pieces of decayed leaves trimmed away. Throw them into boiling -salted water; the water must be kept boiling the whole time, without a lid -on the saucepan, and if the quantity of water be sufficiently large not to -be taken off the boil by the sprouts being thrown in they will be sent to -table of a far brighter green colour than otherwise. In order to ensure -this, throw in the sprouts a few at a time, picking out the big ones to -throw in first. Sprouts, as soon as they are tender--probable time a -quarter of an hour--should be drained and served _quickly_. When served as -a dish by themselves, after being drained off, they can be placed in a -stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-juice. They -can then be served with toasted or fried bread. - - -CABBAGE, PLAIN BOILED.--Ordinary young cabbages should be first trimmed by -having the outside leaves removed, the stalks cut off, and then should be -cut in halves and allowed to soak some time in salt and water. They should -be thrown into plenty of boiling water; the water should be kept boiling -and uncovered. As soon as they are tender they should be strained off and -served immediately. Young summer cabbages will not take longer than a -quarter of an hour, or even less; old cabbages take nearly double that -time. It is impossible to lay down any exact rule with regard to time. -Savoys generally take about half an hour. The large white cabbages met -with in the West of England take longer and require a different treatment. - -When cabbage is served as a dish by itself it will be found a great -improvement to add either butter or oil to moisten the cabbage after it is -thoroughly drained off. In order to ensure the butter not oiling, but -adhering to the cabbage, it is best after the butter is added, and while -you mix it with the cabbage, to shake the flour-dredger two or three times -over the vegetable. In Germany, many add vinegar and sugar to the cabbage. - - -CABBAGE, LARGE WHITE.--In the West of England cabbages grow to an immense -size, owing, probably, to the moist heat, and have been exhibited in -agricultural shows over twenty pounds in weight and as big as an eighteen -gallon cask. These cabbages are best boiled as follows:--After being cut -up and thoroughly washed, it will be found that the greater part of the -cabbage resembles what in ordinary cabbage would be called stalk, and, of -course, the leaves vary very considerably in thickness from the hard stalk -end up to the leaf. Have plenty of boiling water ready salted, now cut off -the stalk part where it is thickest and throw this in first. Wait till the -water comes to the boil again and let it boil for a few minutes. Then -throw in the next thickest part and again wait till the water re-boils, and -so on, reserving the thin leafy part to be thrown in last of all. By this -means, and this only, do we get the cabbage boiled uniformly. Had we -thrown in all at once one of two things would be inevitable--either the -stalk would be too hard to be eaten or the leafy part over-boiled. A large -white cabbage takes about an hour to boil tender, and a piece of soda -should be added to the water. When the cabbage is well drained, it can be -served either plain or moistened, and made to look oily by the addition of -a piece of butter. As the cabbage is very white, the dish is very much -improved by the addition of a little chopped parsley sprinkled over the -top, not for the sake of flavour but appearance. - - -CABBAGE AND CREAM.--Ordinary cabbages are sometimes served stewed with a -little cream. They should be first parboiled, then the moisture squeezed -from them, and then they must be put in a stew-pan with a little butter, -pepper, salt and nutmeg, and a spoonful of flour should be shaken over the -cabbage in order to prevent the butter being too oily. When the cabbage is -stewed till it is perfectly tender, add a few spoonfuls of cream, stir up, -and make the whole thoroughly hot, and serve with fried or toasted bread. - - -CABBAGE, RED.--Red cabbages are chiefly used for pickling. They are -sometimes served fresh. They should be cut across so that the cabbage -shreds, boiled till they are tender, the moisture thoroughly extracted, and -then put into a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and a few -shakes of flour from the flour-dredger. After stirring for ten minutes or -a quarter of an hour, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them and serve. - - -CARROTS, BOILED.--When carrots are boiled and served as a course by -themselves, they ought to be young. This dish is constantly met with -abroad in early summer, but is rarely seen in England, except at the tables -of vegetarians. The carrots should be trimmed, thoroughly washed, and, if -necessary, slightly scraped, and the point at the end, which looks like a -piece of string, should be cut off. They should be thrown into fast -boiling water (salted) in order to preserve their colour. When tender they -can be served with some kind of good white sauce, or sauce Allemande or -Dutch sauce. Perhaps this latter sauce is best of all, as it looks like -rich custard. Part of the red carrot should show uncovered by any sauce. -They are best placed in a circle and the thick sauce poured in the centre; -a very little chopped blanched parsley can be sprinkled on the top of the -sauce. In making Dutch sauce for carrots use lemon-juice instead of -tarragon vinegar. - - -CARROTS, FRIED.--Fried carrots can be made from full-grown carrots. They -must be first parboiled and then cut in slices; they must then be dipped in -well-beaten-up egg, and then covered with fine dry bread-crumbs and fried a -nice brown in smoking hot oil in a frying-basket. The slices of carrot -should be peppered and salted before being dipped in the egg. - - -CARROTS, MASHED.--When carrots are very old they are best mashed. Boil -them for some time, then cut them up and rub them through a wire sieve. -They can be pressed in a basin and made hot by being steamed. A little -butter, pepper and salt should be added to the mixture. A very pretty dish -can be made by means of mixing mashed carrots with mashed turnips. They -can be shaped in a basin, and with a little ingenuity can be put into red -and white stripes. The effect is something like the top of a striped tent. - - -CAULIFLOWER, PLAIN BOILED.--Cauliflowers can be treated in exactly the same -manner as brocoli, and there are very few who can tell the difference. -(_See_ BROCOLI.) - - -CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.--This is a very nice method of serving cauliflower -as a course by itself. The cauliflower or cauliflowers should first be -boiled till thoroughly tender, very carefully drained, and then placed -upright in a vegetable-dish with the flower part uppermost. The whole of -the flower part should then be _masked_ (_i.e._, covered over) with some -thick white sauce. Allemande sauce or Dutch sauce will do. This is then -sprinkled over with grated Parmesan cheese and the dish put in the oven for -the top to brown. As soon as it _begins_ to brown take it out of the oven -and finish it off neatly with a salamander (a red-hot shovel will do), the -same way you finish cheese-cakes made from curds. - - -CAULIFLOWER AND TOMATO SAUCE.--Boil and place the cauliflower or flowers -upright in a dish as in the above recipe. Now mask all the flower part -very neatly, commencing round the edges first, with some tomato conserve -previously made warm, and serve immediately. This is a very pretty-looking -dish. - - -CELERY, STEWED.--The secret of having good stewed celery is only to cook -the white part. Throw the celery into boiling water, with only sufficient -water just to cover it. When the celery is tender use some of the water in -which it is stewed to make a sauce to serve with it, or better still, stew -the celery in milk. The sauce looks best when it is thickened with the -yolks of eggs. A very nice sauce indeed can be made by first thickening -the milk or water in which the celery is stewed with a little white roux, -and then adding a quarter of a pint of cream boiled separately. Stewed -celery should be served on toast, like asparagus; a little chopped blanched -parsley can be sprinkled over the white sauce by way of ornament, and fried -bread should be placed round the edge of the dish. - -Stewed celery can also be served with sauce Allemande or Dutch sauce. - - -ENDIVE.--Endive is generally used as a salad, but is very nice served as a -vegetable, stewed. White-heart endives should be chosen, and several heads -will be required for a dish, as they shrink very much in cooking. Wash and -clean the endives very carefully in salt and water first, as they often -contain insects. Boil them in slightly salted water till they are tender, -then drain them off, and thoroughly extract the moisture; put them in a -stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, let them stew for -some little time; add the juice of a lemon, and serve. It will make the -dish much prettier if you reserve one head of endive boiled whole. Place -the stewed endive on a dish, and sprinkle some chopped blanched parsley -over it, then place the single head of endive upright in the centre, and -place some fried bread round the edge. - - -LEEKS, STEWED.--Leeks must be trimmed down to where the green part meets -the white on the one side, and the root, where the strings are, cut off on -the other. They should be thrown into boiling water, boiled till they are -tender, and then thoroughly drained. The water in which leeks have been -boiled is somewhat rank and bitter, and, as the leeks are like tubes, in -order to drain them perfectly you must turn them upside down. They can be -served on toast, and covered with some kind of white sauce, either ordinary -white sauce, sauce Allemande, or Dutch sauce. - - -LEEKS, WELSH PORRIDGE.--The leeks are stewed and cut in slices, and served -in some of the liquor in which they are boiled, with toast cut in strips, -something like onion porridge. Boil the leeks for five minutes, drain them -off, and throw away the first water, and then stew them gently in some -fresh water. In years back, in Wales, French plums were stewed with and -added to the porridge. - - -LETTUCES, STEWED.--As lettuces shrink very much when boiled, allowance must -be made, and several heads used. This is also a very good way of utilising -the large old-fashioned English lettuce resembling in shape a gingham -umbrella. They should be first boiled till tender. The time depends -entirely upon the size. Drain them off, and thoroughly extract the -moisture; put them into a stew-pan, with a little butter, pepper, salt, and -nutmeg. Let them stew some little time, and add a little vinegar, or, -still better, lemon-juice. - - -LETTUCES STEWED WITH PEAS.--A border of stewed lettuces can be made as -above, and the centre filled up with some fresh-boiled young green peas. - - -ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED.--When onions are served as a dish by themselves, -Spanish onions are far best for the purpose. Ordinary onions, as a rule, -are too strong to be eaten, except as an accompaniment to some other kind -of food. When onions are plain boiled, they are best served on dry toast -without any sauce at all. Butter can be added when eaten on the plate if -liked. Large Spanish onions will require about three hours to boil tender. - - -ONIONS, BAKED.--Spanish onions can be baked in the oven. They are best -placed in saucers, with a very little butter to prevent them sticking, with -which they can also be basted occasionally. Probable time about three -hours. They should be of a nice brown colour at the finish. - - -ONIONS, STEWED.--Place a large Spanish onion in a saucer at the bottom of -the saucepan, and put sufficient water in the saucepan to reach the edge of -the saucer; keep the lid of the saucepan on tight, and let it steam till -tender. A large onion would take about three hours. The water from the -onion will prevent the necessity of adding fresh water from time to time. - - -PARSNIPS.--Like young carrots, young parsnips are often met with abroad as -a course by themselves. They should be trimmed and boiled whole, and -served with white sauce, Allemande sauce, or Dutch sauce; a little chopped -blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the sauce, and fried bread served -round the edge of the dish. - - -PARSNIPS, FRIED.--Boil some full-grown parsnips till they are tender, cut -them into slices, pepper and salt them, dip them into beaten-up egg, and -cover them with bread-crumbs, and fry these slices in some smoking hot oil -till they are a nice brown colour. - - -PARSNIPS, MASHED.--When parsnips are very old they are best mashed. Boil -them for an hour or more, then cut them up and rub them through a wire -sieve. The stringy part will have to be left behind. Mix the pulp with a -little butter, pepper, and salt; make this hot, and serve. A little cream -is a great improvement. - - -PARSNIP CAKE.--Boil two or three parsnips until they are tender enough to -mash, then press them through a colander with the back of a wooden spoon, -and carefully remove any fibrous, stringy pieces there may be. Mix a -teacupful of the mashed parsnip with a quart of hot milk, add a teaspoonful -of salt, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of yeast, and enough -flour to make a stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains the mixture in a -warm place, cover it with a cloth, and leave it to rise. When it has risen -to twice its original size, knead some more flour into it, and let it rise -again; make it into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and place -these on buttered tins. Let them stand before the fire a few minutes, and -bake them in a hot oven. They do not taste of the parsnip. Time, some -hours to rise; about twenty minutes to bake. - - -PEAS, GREEN.--By far the best and nicest way of cooking green peas when -served as a course by themselves is to stew them gently in a little butter -without any water at all, like they do in France. The peas are first -shelled, and then placed in a stew-pan with a little butter, sufficient to -moisten them. As soon as they are tender, which will vary with the size -and age of the peas, they can be served just as they are. The flavour of -peas cooked this way is so delicious that they are nicest eaten with plain -bread. When old peas are cooked this way it is customary to add a little -white powdered sugar. - - -PEAS, GREEN, PLAIN BOILED.--Shell the peas, and throw them into boiling -water slightly salted. Keep the lid off the saucepan and throw in a few -sprigs of fresh green mint five minutes before you drain them off. Young -peas will take about ten to twenty minutes, and full-grown peas rather -longer. Serve the peas directly they are drained, as they are spoilt by -being kept hot. - - -PEAS, STEWED.--When peas late in the season get old and tough, they can be -stewed. Boil them for rather more than half an hour, throwing them first -of all into boiling water; drain them off, and put them into a stew-pan -with a little butter, pepper, and salt. Young onions and lettuces cut up -can be stewed with them, but young green peas are far too nice ever to be -spoilt by being cooked in this way. - - -SCOTCH KALE.--Scotch kale, or curly greens, as it is sometimes called in -some parts of the country, is cooked like ordinary greens. It should be -washed very carefully, and thrown into fast-boiling salted water. The -saucepan should remain uncovered, as we wish to preserve the dark green -colour. Young Scotch kale will take about twenty minutes to boil before it -is tender. When boiled, if served as a course by itself, it should be -strained off very thoroughly and warmed in a stew-pan with a little butter, -pepper, and salt. - - -SEA KALE.--Sea kale possesses a very delicate flavour, and in cooking it -the endeavour should be to preserve this flavour. Throw the sea kale when -washed into boiling water; in about twenty minutes, if it is young, it will -be tender. Serve it on plain dry toast, and keep all the heads one way. -Butter sauce, white sauce, Dutch sauce, or sauce Allemande can be served -with sea kale, but should be sent to table separate in a boat, as the -majority of good judges prefer the sea kale quite plain. - - -SPINACH.--The chief difficulty to contend with in cooking spinach is the -preliminary cleansing. The best method of washing spinach is to take two -buckets of water. Wash it in one; the spinach will float on the top whilst -the dirt settles at the bottom. Lift the spinach from one pail, after you -have allowed it to settle for a few minutes, into the other pail. One or -two rinsings will be sufficient. Spinach should be picked if the stalks -are large, and thrown into boiling water slightly salted. Boil the spinach -till it is tender, which will take about a quarter of an hour, then drain -it off and cut it very small in a basin with a knife and fork, place it -back in a saucepan with a little piece of butter to make it thoroughly hot, -put it in a vegetable dish and serve. - -Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, or poached eggs, are usually served with -spinach. A little cream, nutmeg, and lemon-juice can be added. Many cooks -rub the spinach through a wire sieve. - - -VEGETABLE MARROW.--Vegetable marrows must be first peeled, cut open, the -pips removed, and then thrown into boiling water; small ones should be cut -into quarters and large ones into pieces about as big as the palm of the -hand. They take from fifteen to twenty minutes to boil before they are -tender. They should be served directly they are cooked and placed on dry -toast. Butter sauce or white sauce can be served with them, but is best -sent to table separate in a boat, as many persons prefer them plain. - - -VEGETABLE MARROWS, STUFFED.--Young vegetable marrows are very nice stuffed. -They should be first peeled very slightly and then cut, long-ways, into -three zigzag slices; the pips should be removed and the interior filled -with either mushroom forcemeat (_see_ MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT) or sage-and-onion -stuffing made with rather an extra quantity of bread-crumbs. The vegetable -marrow should be tied up with two separate loops of tape about a quarter of -the way from each end, and these two rings of tape tied together with two -or three separate pieces of tape to prevent them slipping off at the ends. -The forcemeat or stuffing should be made hot before it is placed in the -marrow. The vegetable marrow should now be thrown into boiling water and -boiled till it is tender, about twenty minutes to half an hour. Take off -the tape carefully, and be careful to place the marrow so that one half -rests on the other half, or else it will slip. - -N.B.--If you place the stuffing inside cold, the vegetable marrow will -break before the inside gets hot through. - - -TURNIPS, BOILED.--When turnips are young they are best boiled whole. Peel -them first very thinly, and throw them into cold water till they are ready -for the saucepan. Throw them into boiling water slightly salted. They -will probably take about twenty minutes to boil. They can be served quite -plain or with any kind of white sauce, butter sauce, sauce Allemande, or -Dutch sauce. In vegetarian cookery they are perhaps best served with some -other kind of vegetable. - - -TURNIPS, MASHED.--Old turnips are best mashed, as they are stringy. Boil -them till they get fairly tender; they will take from half an hour to two -hours, according to age; then rub them through a wire sieve and warm up the -pulp with a little milk, or still better, cream and a little butter; add -pepper and salt. - -N.B.--If the pulp be very moist let it stand and get rid of the moisture -gradually in a frying-pan over a very slack fire. - - -TURNIPS, ORNAMENTAL.--A very pretty way of serving young turnips in -vegetarian cookery is to cut them in halves and scoop out the centre so as -to form cups; the part scooped out can be mixed with some carrot cut up -into small pieces, and some green peas, and placed in the middle of a dish -in a heap; the half-turnips forming cups can be placed round the base of -the dish and each cup filled alternately with the red part of the carrot, -chopped small and piled up, and a spoonful of green peas. This makes a -very pretty dish of mixed vegetables. - - -TURNIP-TOPS.--Turnip-tops, when fresh cut, make very nice and wholesome -greens. They should be thrown into boiling water and boiled for about -twenty minutes, when they will be tender. They should then be cut up with -a knife and fork very finely and served like spinach. If rubbed through a -wire sieve and a little spinach extract mixed with them to give them the -proper colour, and served with hard-boiled eggs, there are very few persons -who can distinguish the dish from eggs and spinach. - - -VEGETABLE CURRY.--A border made of all kinds of mixed vegetables is very -nice sent to table with some good thick curry sauce poured in the centre. - - -NETTLES, TO BOIL.--The best time to gather nettles for eating purposes is -in the early spring. They are freely eaten in many parts of the country, -as they are considered excellent for purifying the blood. The young -light-green leaves only should be taken. They must be washed carefully and -boiled in two waters, a little salt and a very small piece of soda being -put in the last water. When tender, turn them into a colander, press the -water from them, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, score them across -three or four times, and serve. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. -Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil. - - -SALSIFY.--Scrape the salsify and throw it into cold water with a little -vinegar. Then throw it into boiling water, boil til tender, and serve on -toast with white sauce. Time to boil, about one hour. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS. - - -Vegetables and fruits are preserved in two ways. We can have them -preserved both in bottles and tins, but the principle is exactly the same -in both cases, the method of preservation being simply that of excluding -the air. We will not enter into the subject of how to preserve fruit and -vegetables, but will confine ourselves to discussing as briefly as possible -the best method of using them when they are preserved. - -Unfortunately there exists a very unreasonable prejudice on the part of -many persons against all kinds of provisions that are preserved in tins. -This prejudice is kept alive by stories that occasionally get into print -about families being poisoned by using tinned goods. We hear stories also -of poisoning resulting from using copper vessels. Housekeepers should -endeavour to grasp the idea that the evil is the result of their own -ignorance, and that no danger would accrue were they possessed of a little -more elementary knowledge of chemistry. If a penny be dipped in vinegar -and exposed to the air, and is then licked by a child, a certain amount of -ill effect would undoubtedly ensue, but it does not follow that we should -give up the use of copper money. So, too, if we use tinned goods, and -owing to our own carelessness or ignorance find occasionally that evil -results ensue, we should not give up the use of the goods in question, but -endeavour to find out the cause why these evil results follow only -occasionally. - -All good cooks know, or ought to know, that if they leave the soup all -night in a saucepan the soup is spoilt. Again, all housekeepers know that -although they have a metal tank, they are bound to have a wooden lid on -top, there being a law to this effect. The point they forget in using -tinned goods is this, so long as the air is excluded from the interior of -the tin no chemical action goes on whatever. When, therefore, they open -the tin, if they turn out the contents at once no harm can ensue. -Unfortunately, there are many thousands who will open a tin, take out what -they want, and _leave the remainder in the tin_. Of course, they have only -themselves to blame should evil result. - -Preserved vegetables are so useful that they are inseparable from civilised -cookery; for instance, what would a French cook do were he dependent for -his mushrooms upon these fresh grown in the fields? The standard dish at -vegetarian restaurants is mushroom pie, and, thanks to tinned mushrooms, we -can obtain this dish all the year round. In most restaurants peas are on -the bill of fare throughout the year. Were we dependent upon fresh grown -ones, this popular dish would be confined almost to a few weeks. - -In the case of preserved goods, tinned fruits are even more valuable than -tinned vegetables. Ripe apricots and peaches picked fresh from the tree -are expensive luxuries that in this country can only be indulged in by the -rich, whereas, thanks to the art of preserving, we are enabled to enjoy -them all the year round. We will run briefly through a few of the chief -vegetables and fruits, and give a few hints how to best use them. First of -all-- - - -ASPARAGUS, TINNED.--Place the tin in the saucepan with sufficient cold -water to cover it. Bring the water to a boil and let it boil for five -minutes; take out the tin and cut it open round the edge, as near to the -edge as possible, otherwise you will be apt to break the asparagus in -turning it out. Drain off the liquor and serve the asparagus on freshly -made hot toast. There is much less waste as a rule in tinned asparagus -than in that freshly cut. As a rule, you can eat nearly the whole of it. - - -PEAS, TINNED.--Put the tin before it is opened into cold water, bring the -water to a boil, and let it boil five minutes, or longer if the tin is a -large one. Cut open the tin at the top, pour out the liquor, and serve the -peas with a few sprigs of fresh mint, if it can be obtained, that have been -boiled for two or three minutes. Supposing the tin to contain a pint of -peas, add while the peas are thoroughly hot a brimming saltspoonful of -finely powdered sugar, and half a saltspoonful of salt. If the peas are to -be eaten by themselves, as is generally the case with vegetarians, add a -good-sized piece of butter. - - -FRENCH BEANS, TINNED.--These can be treated in exactly similar manner to -green peas, only, instead of adding mint, add a little chopped blanched -parsley; the same quantity of sugar and salt should be added as in the case -of peas. After the butter has melted, it is a great improvement, when the -beans are eaten as a course by themselves, with bread, if the juice of half -a lemon is added. - - -FLAGEOLETS, TINNED.--For this delicious vegetable, in England, we are -dependent upon tinned goods, as we cannot recall an instance in which they -can be bought freshly gathered. Warm up the beans in the tin by placing -the tin in cold water, bringing the water to a boil, and letting it boil -for five minutes. Drain off the liquor, add a saltspoonful of sugar, half -a one of salt, and a lump of butter. Instead of butter, you can add to -each pint two tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Many persons consider it a -great improvement to rub the vegetable-dish with a bead of garlic. In this -case the beans should be tossed about in the dish for a minute or two. - - -BRUSSELS SPROUTS, TINNED.--The tin should be made hot before it is opened, -the liquor drained off, and the sprouts placed in a dish, with a little -butter or oil, powdered sugar, salt, pepper, and a slight flavouring of -nutmeg. In France, in some parts, a little cream is poured over them. - - -SPINACH, TINNED.--Spinach is sold in tins fairly cheap, and, quoting from -the list of a large retail establishment where prices correspond with those -of the Civil Service Stores, a tin of spinach can be obtained for -fivepence-halfpenny. The spinach should be made very hot in the tin, -turned out on to a dish, and hard-boiled eggs, hot, cut in halves, added. -Some people add also a little vinegar, but, unless persons' tastes are -known beforehand, that is best added on the plate. - - -CARROTS, TINNED.--Young carrots can be obtained in tins, and, as only young -carrots are nice when served as a course by themselves, these will be found -a valuable addition to the vegetarian store-cupboard. Make the carrots hot -in the tin, and let the water boil, for quite ten minutes after it comes to -the boiling point. Drain off the liquor, and serve them with some kind of -white sauce exactly as if they were freshly boiled young carrots. - - -TURNIPS, TINNED.--Proceed exactly the same as in the case of carrots. - - -FOND D'ARTICHOKE.--These consist of the bottom part only of French -artichokes. They should be made hot in the tin, and served up with some -good butter sauce, and cut lemon separate, as many prefer the artichokes -plain. - - -MACEDOINES.--This, as the word implies, is a mixture of various vegetables, -the chief of which are generally chopped-up carrot and turnip with young -green peas. A very nice dish which can be served at a very short notice, -if you have curry sauce in bottles, is a dish of vegetable curry. The -macedoines should be made hot in the tin, the liquor drained off, and the -curry sauce, made hot, should be poured into a well made in the centre of -the macedoines in the dish. Macedoines are also very useful, as they can -be served as a vegetable salad at a moment's notice, as the vegetables are -sufficiently cooked without being made hot. - - -TINNED FRUITS.--Tinned fruits are ready for eating directly the tin is -opened. All we have to bear in mind is to turn them all out of the tin on -to a dish immediately. Do not leave any in the tin to be used at another -time. Most tinned fruits can be served just as they are, in a glass dish, -but a great improvement can be made in their appearance at a very small -cost and with a very little extra trouble if we always have in the house a -little preserved angelica and a few dried cherries. As these cost about a -shilling or one and fourpence per pound, and even a quarter of a pound is -sufficient to ornament two or three dozen dishes, the extra expense is -almost nil. - - -APRICOTS, TINNED.--Pile the apricots up, with the convex side uppermost, in -a glass dish, reserving one cup apricot to go on the top, with the concave -side uppermost. Take a few preserved cherries, and cut them in halves, and -stick half a cherry in all the little holes or spaces where the apricots -meet. Cut four little green leaves out of the angelica about the size of -the thumb-nail, only a little longer; the size of a filbert would perhaps -describe the size better. Put a whole cherry in the apricot cup at the -top, and four green leaves of angelica round it. Take the white kernel of -the apricot--one or two will always be found in every tin--and cut four -white slices out of the middle, place these round the red cherry, touching -the cherry, and resting between the four green leaves of angelica; the top -of this dish has now the appearance of a very pretty flower. - - -PEACHES, TINNED.--These can be treated in exactly a similar way to the -apricots. - - -PEACHES AND APRICOTS, WITH CREAM.--Place the fruit in a glass dish, with -the concave side uppermost; pour the syrup round the fruit, and with a -teaspoon remove any syrup that may have settled in the little cups, for -such the half-peaches or apricots may be called. Get a small jar of -Devonshire clotted cream; take about half a teaspoonful of cream, and place -it in the middle of each cup, and place a single preserved cherry on the -top of the cream. This dish can be made still prettier by chopping up a -little green angelica, like parsley, and sprinkling a few of these little -green specks on the white cream. - - -PINE-APPLE, TINNED.--Pine-apples are preserved in tins whole, and are very -superior in flavour to those which are sold cheap on barrows, which are -more rotten than ripe. They require very little ornamenting, but the top -is greatly improved by placing a red cherry in the centre, and cutting -eight strips of green angelica like spikes, reaching from the cherry to the -edge of the pine-apple. They should be cut in exact lengths, so as not to -overlap. The top of the pine-apple looks like a green star with a red -centre. - - -PEARS, TINNED.--Tinned pears are exceedingly nice in flavour, but the -drawback to them is their appearance. They look like pale and rather dirty -wax, while the syrup with which they are surrounded resembles the water in -which potatoes have been over-boiled. The prettiest way of sending them to -table is as follows:--Take, say a teacupful of rice, wash it very -carefully, boil it, and let it get dry and cold. Take the syrup from the -pears and taste it, and if not sweet enough add some powdered sugar. Put -the rice in a glass dish, and make a very small well in the centre, and -pour all the syrup into this, so that it soaks into the rice at the bottom -of the dish without affecting the appearance of the surface. In the -meantime, place the pears themselves on a dish, and let the syrup drain off -them, and if you can let them stand for an hour or two to let them dry all -the better. Now, with an ordinary brush, paint these waxy-looking pears a -bright red with a little cochineal, and place these half-pears on the white -rice, slanting, with the thick part downwards and the stalk end uppermost. -Cut a few sticks of green angelica about an inch and a half long and of the -thickness of the ordinary stalk of a pear, and stick one of these into the -stalk end of each pear. The red pear, with the green stalk resting on the -snow-white bed of rice, looks very pretty. A little chopped angelica can -be sprinkled over the white rice, like chopped parsley. - - -FRUITS, BOTTLED.--When apricots and peaches are preserved in bottles, they -can be treated exactly in a similar manner to those preserved in tins. It -will be found advisable, however, to taste the syrup in the bottle, as it -will be often found that it requires the addition of a little more sugar. -Ordinary bottled fruits, such as gooseberries, currants, raspberries, -rhubarb, damsons, cranberries, etc., can be used for making fruit pies, or -they can be sent to table simply as stewed fruit. In this case some -whipped cream on the top is a very great improvement. Another very nice -way of sending these bottled fruits to table is to fill a border made with -rice, as described in Chapter III. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS. - - -By vegetarian jelly we mean jellies made on vegetarian principles. To be -consistent, if we cannot use anchovy sauce because it is made from fish, on -the same principle we cannot use either gelatine or isinglass, which, of -course, as everybody knows, is made from fishes. For all this, there is no -reason why vegetarians should not enjoy jellies quite equal, so far as -flavour is concerned, to ordinary jelly. The simplest substitute for -gelatine, or what is virtually the same thing, isinglass, is corn-flour. -Tapioca could be used, but corn-flour saves much trouble. Some persons may -urge that it is not fair to give the name of jelly to a corn-flour pudding. -There is, however, a very great difference between a corn-flour pudding -flavoured with orange, and what we may call an orange jelly, in which -corn-flour is only introduced, like gelatine, for the purpose of -transforming a liquid into a solid. - -We also have this advantage in using corn-flour: it is much more simple and -can be utilised for making a very large variety of jellies, many of which, -probably, will be new even to vegetarians themselves. We are all agreed on -one point, _i.e._, the wholesomeness of freshly picked ripe fruit. We will -suppose the season to be autumn and the blackberries ripe on the hedgerows, -and that the children of the family are nothing loth to gather, say, a -couple of quarts. We will now describe how to make a mould of-- - - -BLACKBERRY JELLY.--Put the blackberries in an enamelled saucepan with a -little water at the bottom, and let them stew gently till they yield up -their juice, or they can be placed in a jar in the oven. They can now be -strained through a hair sieve, but, still better, they can be squeezed dry -in a tamis cloth. This juice should now be sweetened, and it can be made -into jelly in two ways, both of which are perfectly lawful in vegetarian -cookery. The juice, like red currant juice, can be boiled with a large -quantity of white sugar till the jelly sets of its own accord; in this case -we should require one pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and the result -would be a blackberry jelly like red currant jelly, more like a preserve -than the jelly we are accustomed to eat at dinner alone. For instance, no -one would care to eat a quantity of red currant jelly like we should -ordinary orange or lemon jelly--it would be too sickly; consequently we -will take a pint or a quart of our blackberry juice only and sufficient -sugar to make it agreeably sweet without being sickly. We will boil this -in a saucepan and add a tablespoonful of corn-flour mixed with a little -cold juice to every pint to make the juice thick. This can be now poured -into a mould or plain round basin; we will suppose the latter. When the -jelly has got quite cold we can turn it out on to a dish, say a silver -dish, with a piece of white ornamental paper at the bottom. We now have to -ornament this mould of blackberry jelly, and, as a rule, it will be found -that no ornament can surpass natural ones. Before boiling the blackberries -for the purpose of extracting their juice, pick out two or three dozen of -the largest and ripest, wash them and put them by with some of the young -green leaves of the blackberry plant itself, which should be picked as -nearly as possible of the same size, and, like the blackberries, must be -washed. Now place a row of blackberry leaves round the base of the mould, -with the stalk of the leaf under the mould, and on each leaf place a ripe -blackberry touching the mould itself. Take four very small leaves and -stick them on the top of the mould, in the centre, and put the largest and -best-looking blackberry of all upright in the centre. This dish is now -pretty-looking enough to be served on really great occasions. We consider -this dish worthy of being called blackberry jelly, and not corn-flour -pudding. - - -LEMON JELLY.--Take six lemons and half a pound of sugar, and rub the sugar -on the outside of three of the lemons; the lemons must be hard and yellow, -the peel should not be shrivelled. Now squeeze the juice of all six lemons -into a basin, add the sugar and a pint of water. Of course, the -lemon-juice must be strained. (If wine is allowed, add half a pint of good -golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring this to the boil and thicken it with some -corn-flour in the ordinary way, allowing a tablespoonful of corn-flour for -every pint of fluid. Pour it into a mould and when it is set turn it out. -A lemon jelly like this should be turned on to a piece of ornamental paper -placed at the bottom of a silver or some other kind of dish. The base of -the mould should be ornamented with thin slices of lemon cut in half, the -diameter touching the base of the mould and the semicircular piece of peel -outside. If a round basin has been used for a mould, place a corner of a -lemon on the top in the middle, surrounded with a few imitation green -leaves cut out of angelica. This improves the dish in appearance and also -shows what the dish is made of. - - -ORANGE JELLY.--Take six oranges, two lemons, and half a pound of lump -sugar; rub the sugar on the outside of three of the oranges, squeeze the -juice of the six oranges into a basin with the juice of two lemons, strain, -add the sugar and a pint of water. The liquid will be of an orange colour, -owing to the rind of the orange rubbed on to the sugar. (If wine be -allowed, add half a pint of golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring the liquid to -boiling point and then thicken it with corn-flour, and pour it while hot -into a mould or plain white basin; when cold, turn it out on to a piece of -ornamental paper placed at the bottom of a dish; surround the bottom of the -mould with thin slices of orange cut into quarters and the centre part -pushed under the mould; place the small end of an orange on the top of the -mould with some little leaves or spikes of green angelica placed round the -edge. - - -BLACK CURRANT JELLY.--The juice of black currants makes excellent jelly in -the ordinary way if we boil a pint of black currant juice with a pound of -sugar till it sets; but a mould of black currant jelly suitable to be used -as a sweet at dinner can be made by adding less sugar and thickening the -juice with corn-flour, allowing about a tablespoonful to every pint, and -pouring it into a mould or plain round basin. The mould can be ornamented -as follows, and we will suppose a pudding-basin to be used for the purpose. -We will suppose the mould of jelly to have been turned out on to a clean -sheet of white paper. Pick some of the brighter green black-currant leaves -off the tree, and place these round the base of the mould with the stalk of -the leaf pushed underneath and the point of the leaf pointing outwards. -Now choose a few very small bunches of black currants, wash these and dip -them into very weak gum and water, and then dip them into white powdered -sugar. They now look, when they are dry, as if they were crystallised or -covered with hoar-frost. Place one of these little bunches, with the stalk -stuck into the mould of jelly, about an inch from the bottom, so that each -bunch rests on a green leaf. Cut a small stick of angelica and stick it -into the top of the mould upright, and let a bunch of frosted black -currants hang over the top. If we wish to make the mould of jelly very -pretty as a supper dish, where there is a good top light, we can dip the -green leaves into weak gum and water and then sprinkle over them some -powdered glass. - - -RED CURRANT JELLY.--Red currant jelly can be made in exactly a similar -manner, substituting red currants for black. - - -RASPBERRY JELLY.--The raspberries should be picked very ripe, and two or -three dozen of the best-looking ones of the largest and ripest should be -reserved for ornamenting. If possible, also gather some red currants and -mix with the raspberries, on account of the colour, which otherwise would -be very poor indeed. It will be found best to rub the raspberries through -a hair sieve, as the addition of the pulp very much improves the flavour of -the jelly. The sieve should be sufficiently fine to prevent the pips of -the raspberries passing through it. The juice and pulp from the -raspberries and currants can now be thickened with corn-flour as directed -in the recipe for blackberry jelly. Raspberry leaves should be placed -round the base of the jelly and a ripe raspberry placed on each. The -best-looking raspberry can be placed on the top of the mould in the centre -of two or three raspberry leaves stuck in the jelly. - - -APPLE JAM AND APPLE JELLY.--The following recipe is taken from "A Year's -Cookery," by Phyllis Brown:--"The best time for making apple jelly is about -the middle of November. Almost all kinds of apples may be used for the -purpose, though, if a clear white jelly is wanted, Colvilles or -orange-pippins should be chosen; if red jelly is preferred, very -rosy-cheeked apples should be taken, and the skins should be boiled with -the fruit. Apple jam is made of the fruit after the juice has been drawn -off for jelly. Economical housekeepers will find that very excellent jelly -can be made of apple parings, so that where apples in any quantity have -been used for pies and tarts the skins can be stewed in sufficient water to -cover them, and when the liquor is strongly flavoured it can be strained -and boiled with sugar to a jelly. To make apple jelly, pare, core and -slice the apples and put them into a preserving-pan with enough water to -cover them. Stir them occasionally and stew gently till the apples have -fallen, then turn all into a jelly-bag and strain away the juice, but do -not squeeze or press the pulp. Measure the liquid and allow a pound of -sugar to a pint of juice. Put both juice and sugar back into the -preserving-pan, and, if liked, add one or two cloves tied in muslin, or two -or three inches of lemon-rind. Boil gently and skim carefully for about -half an hour, or till a little of the jelly put upon a plate will set. -Pour it while hot into jars, and when cold and stiff cover down in the -usual way. If yellow jelly is wanted a pinch of saffron tied in muslin -should be boiled with the juice. To make apple jam, weigh the apple pulp -after the juice has been drawn from it, rub it through a hair sieve, and -allow one pound of sugar to one pint of pulp, and the grated rind of a -lemon to three pints of pulp. Boil all gently together till the jam will -set when a little is put on a plate. Apple jam is sometimes flavoured with -vanilla instead of lemon." - - -DAMSON JELLY.--Damson jelly can be made in two ways. The juice can be -boiled with sugar till it gets like red currant jelly, or the juice of the -damsons can be sweetened with less sugar and thickened with corn-flour. In -order to extract the juice from damsons they should be sliced and placed in -a jar or basin and put in the oven. They are best left in the oven all -night. If the mould of jelly is made in a round basin, a single whole -damson can be placed on the top of the mould and green leaves placed round -the base. - - -PINE-APPLE JELLY.--The syrup from a preserved pine, should the pine-apple -itself be used for mixing with other fruits, or for ornamental purposes, -can be utilised by being made into a mould of jelly and by being thickened -with corn-flour. It will bear the addition of a little water. - - -APRICOT JELLY.--The juice from tinned apricots can be treated like that of -pine-apple. When a mixture of fruits is served in a large bowl, the syrup -from tinned fruits should not be added, but at the same time, of course, -should be used in some other way. - - -MULBERRY JELLY.--Mullberries, of course, would not be bought for the -purpose, but those who possess a mulberry tree in their garden will do well -to utilise what are called windfalls by making mulberry jelly. The juice -can be extracted by placing the fruit in a jar and putting it in the oven; -sugar must be added, and the juice thickened with corn-flour. There are -few other ways of using unripe mulberries. - - -JAMS.--Home-made jam is not so common now as it was some years back. As a -rule, it does not answer from an economical point of view to _buy_ fruit to -make jam. On the other hand, those who possess a garden will find -home-made jam a great saving. Those who have attempted to sell their fruit -probably know this to their cost. In making every kind of jam it is -essential the fruit should be picked dry. It is also a time-honoured -tradition that the fruit is best picked when basking in the morning sun. -It is also necessary that the fruit should be free from dust, and that all -decayed or rotten fruit should be carefully picked out. - -Jam is made by boiling the fruit with sugar, and it is false economy to get -common sugar; cheap sugar throws up a quantity of scum. Years back many -persons used brown sugar, but in the present day the difference in the -price of brown and white sugar is so trifling that the latter should always -be used for the purpose. The sugar should not be crushed. It is best to -boil the fruit before adding the sugar. The scum should be removed, and a -wooden spoon used for the purpose. A large enamel stew-pan can be used, -but tradition is in favour of a brass preserving-pan. It will be found -best to boil the fruit as rapidly as possible. The quantity of sugar -varies slightly with the fruit used. Supposing we have a pound of fruit, -the following list gives what is generally considered about the proper -quantity of sugar - -APRICOT JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -BLACKBERRY JAM.--Half a pound; if apple is mixed, rather more. - -BLACK CURRANT JAM.--One pound. - -RED CURRANT JAM.--One pound. - -DAMSON JAM.--One pound. - -GOOSEBERRY JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -GREENGAGE JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -PLUM JAM.--One pound. - -RASPBERRY JAM.--One pound. - -STRAWBERRY JAM.-Three-quarters of a pound. - -CARROT JAM.--If you wish the jam to be of a good colour, only use the -outside or red part of the carrots. Add the rind and the juice of one -lemon, and one pound of sugar to every pound of pulp; a little brandy is a -great improvement. - -RHUBARB JAM.--To every pound of pulp add three-quarters of a pound of -sugar, and the juice of one lemon and the rind of half a lemon. Essence of -almonds can be substituted for the lemon. - -VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.--Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every -pound of pulp. The jam can be flavoured either with ginger or lemon-juice. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESE-CAKES. - - -CREAMS.--Creams may be divided into two classes--whipped cream, flavoured -in a variety of ways, and the solid moulds of cream, which when turned out -look extremely elegant, but which when tasted are somewhat disappointing. -These latter moulds owe their firmness and consistency to the addition of -isinglass, and, as this substance is not allowed in vegetarian cookery, we -shall be able to dispense with cream served in this form, nor are we losers -by so doing. The ordinary mould of cream is too apt to taste like spongy -liver, and, so far as palate is concerned, is incomparably inferior to the -more delicate whipped creams. Just in the same way a good rich custard -made with yolks of eggs is spoilt by being turned into a solid custard by -the addition of gelatine. In order to have good whipped cream, the first -essential is to obtain pure cream. This greatly depends upon the -neighbourhood in which we live. In country houses, away from large towns, -there is as a rule no trouble, whereas in London really good cream can only -be obtained with great difficulty. There is a well-known old story of the -London milkman telling the cook who complained of the quality of the cream -to stir it up, as the cream settled at the bottom. We will not enter into -the subject of the adulteration of cream in big cities, as probably many of -these stories are gross exaggerations, though it is said that pigs' brains -and even horses' brains have been used for the purpose of giving the cream -a consistency, while undoubtedly turmeric has been used to give it a -colour. - -We will suppose that we have, say, a quart of really good thick cream. All -that is necessary is to beat up the cream with a whisk till it becomes a -froth. This is much more easily done in cold weather than in hot, and, if -the weather be very warm, it is best to put the tin or pan containing the -cream into ice an hour or two before it is used. Old French cookery-books -recommend the addition of a little powdered gum, not bigger than a pea, and -the gum recommended is that known as tragacanth. Others again beat up the -white of an egg to a stiff froth, and add this to the cream. It is a good -plan when the cream fails to froth completely to take off the top froth and -drain it on a sieve placed upside down. The cream that drains through can -be added to what is left and re-whipped. It is also a good plan to make -whipped cream some time before it is wanted, and, indeed, it can be -prepared with advantage the day before. When the cream is drained (we are -supposing a quart to have been used) it should be mixed with three or four -ounces of very finely powdered sugar, as well as the particular kind of -flavouring that will give the cream its name. For instance, we can have, -if liqueurs are allowed-- - - -MARASCHINO CREAM.--This is simply made by mixing a small glass of -maraschino with some whipped cream, properly sweetened. - - -COFFEE CREAM.--Make a very strong infusion of pure coffee that has been -roasted a high colour. It will be found best to re-roast coffee berries in -the oven if you have not got a proper coffee-roaster. Pound the berries in -a pestle and mortar, or grind them very coarsely; then make a strong -infusion with a very small quantity of water, and strain it till it is -quite bright. This is mixed with the whipped sweetened cream. - - -CHOCOLATE CREAM.--Take about two ounces of the very best chocolate and -dissolve it in a little boiling water; let it get cold, and then mix with -the whipped sweetened cream. - - -VANILLA CREAM.--Vanilla cream is nicest when a fresh vanilla pod is used -for the purpose, but a more simple process is to use a little essence of -vanilla. - - -ORANGE CREAM.--Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, and -pound this sugar very finely, and then mix it with the whipped cream. - - -LEMON CREAM.--Proceed exactly as in making orange cream, only substituting -lemon for orange. - - -STRAWBERRY CREAM.--The juice only of the strawberry should be used. This -juice should be mixed with the powdered sugar and then used for mixing with -the whipped cream. It is a mistake, in making creams, to have too much -flavouring. The juice of a quarter of a pound of ripe red strawberries -would be sufficient for a quart of cream. - - -PISTACHIO CREAM.--Take about half a pound of pistachio kernels, throw them -for a minute or two into boiling water, and then rub off the skins, -throwing them into cold water like you do in blanching almonds. Pound -these in a mortar with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix a -little spinach extract to give it a colour. Now mix this with the whipped -sweetened cream very thoroughly. This bright green cream makes a very -elegant dish. - - -CUSTARDS.--Good custard forms, perhaps, the best cold sweet sauce known. -It can be made very cheaply, and, on the other hand, it may be made in such -a manner as to be very expensive. We will first describe how to make the -most expensive kind of custard, as very often we can gather ideas from a -high-class model and carry them out in an inexpensive way. The highest -class custard is made by only using yolks of eggs instead of whole eggs, -and we can use cream in addition to milk. The great art in making custard -is to take care it does not curdle. Six yolks of eggs, half a pint of -milk, half a pint of cream, sweetened, would, of course, form a very -expensive custard. An ordinary custard can be made as follows:--Take four -large or five small eggs, beat them up very thoroughly, and add them -gradually to a pint of sweetened milk that has been boiled separately. In -order to thicken the custard, it is a good plan to put it in a jug and -stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the custard till it -is sufficiently thick. Custard can be flavoured in various ways. One of -the cheapest and perhaps nicest is to boil one or two bay-leaves in the -milk. Custard can also be flavoured by the addition of a small quantity of -the essence of vanilla; if you use a fresh pod vanilla, tie it up in a -little piece of muslin and have a string to it. This can be boiled in the -milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured, and this pod can be used over -and over again. Of course, as it loses its flavour, it will have to remain -in the milk longer. - - -CHEAP CUSTARD.--A very cheap custard can be made by adding to one pint of -boiled milk one well-beaten-up egg and one good-sized teaspoonful of -corn-flour. The milk should be first sweetened, and can be flavoured very -cheaply by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or by -having a few bay-leaves boiled in it. A rich yellow colour can be obtained -by using a small quantity of yellow vegetable colouring extract, which, -like the green colouring, is sold in bottles by all grocers. These bottles -are very cheap, as they last a long time. They simply give any kind of -pudding a rich colouring without imparting any flavour whatever, and in -this respect are very superior to saffron. - - -APPLE CUSTARD.--Good apple custard can only be made by using apples of a -good flavour. When apples are in season, this dish can be made fairly -cheaply, but it does not do to use those high-priced imported apples. Peel -and take out the cores of about four pounds of apples, and let these simmer -till they are quite tender in rather more than a pint of water. Add about -one pound of sugar, or rather less if the apples are sweet; add a little -powdered cinnamon, and mix all this with eight eggs, well beaten up; stir -the mixture very carefully in a saucepan, or better still in a good-sized -jug placed in a saucepan, till it begins to thicken. This custard is best -served in glasses, and a little cinnamon sugar can be shaken over the top. -Nutmeg may be used instead of cinnamon, and by many is thought superior. - - -CHEESE-CAKES.--Cheese-cakes can be sent to table in two forms, the one some -rich kind of custard or cream placed in little round pieces of pastry, or -we can have a so-called cheese-cake baked in a pie-dish, the edges only of -which are lined with puff paste. We can also have cheese-cakes very rich -and cheese-cakes very plain. The origin of the name cheese-cake is that -originally they were made from curds used in making cheese. Probably most -people consider that the cheese-cakes made from curds are superior, and in -the North of England, and especially in Yorkshire, where curds are exposed -for sale in the windows at so much a pound, very delicious cheese-cakes can -be made, but considerable difficulty will be experienced if we attempt to -make home-made curds from London milk. Curds are made by taking any -quantity of milk and letting it nearly boil, then throw in a little rennet -or a glass of sherry. The curds must be well strained. - - -CHEESE-CAKES FROM CURDS.--Take half a pound of curds and press the curds in -a napkin to extract the moisture. Take also six ounces of lump sugar, and -rub the sugar on the outside of a couple of oranges or lemons. Dissolve -this sugar in two ounces of butter made hot in a tin in the oven; mix this -with the curds, with two ounces of powdered ratafias and a little grated -nutmeg--about half a nutmeg to this quantity will be required; add also six -yolks of eggs. Mix this well together, and fill the tartlet cases, made -from puff paste, and bake them in the oven. It is often customary to place -in the centre of each cheese-cake a thin strip of candied peel. As soon as -the cheese-cakes are done, take them out of the oven, and if the mixture be -of a bad colour finish it off with a salamander, but do not let them remain -in the oven too long, so that the pastry becomes brittle and dried up. -These cheese-cakes can be made on a larger scale than the ordinary one so -familiar to all who have looked into a pastry-cook's window. Suppose we -make them of the size of a breakfast saucer, a very rich and delicious -cheese-cake can be made by adding some chopped dried cherries to the -mixture. Sometimes ordinary grocer's currants are added and the ratafias -omitted. Sultana raisins can be used instead of currants, and by many are -much preferred. - -This mixture can be baked in a shallow pie-dish and time edge of the dish -lined with puff paste, but cheese-cakes made from curds are undoubtedly -expensive. - - -CHEESE-CAKES FROM POTATOES.--Exceedingly nice cheese-cakes can be made from -remains of cold potatoes, and can be made very cheap by increasing the -quantity of potatoes used. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, -two fresh lemons, and half a pound of lump sugar. First of all rub off all -the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar; oil the butter in a tin in the -oven and melt the sugar in it; squeeze the juice of the two lemons, and -take care that the sugar is thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix -all the ingredients together. Now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix -the whole in a basin. This now forms a very rich mixture indeed, a -good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the interior of an -ordinary-sized cheese-cake, but a far better plan is to make a large -cheese-cake, or rather cheese-cake pudding, in a pie-dish by adding cold -boiled potatoes. The plainness or richness of the pudding depends entirely -upon the amount of potatoes added. The pie-dish can be lined with a little -puff paste round the edge, if preferred, or the pudding can be sent to -table plain. It should be baked in the oven till the top is nicely -browned. It can be served either hot or cold, but, in our opinion, is -nicer cold. If the lemons are very fresh and green--if the pudding is sent -to table _hot_--you will often detect the smell of turpentine. If a _large -quantity_ of potatoes is added more sugar will be required. - - -ORANGE CHEESE-CAKE.--Proceed exactly as above, only substituting two -oranges for two lemons. - - -ALMOND CHEESE-CAKES.--Proceed exactly as above, only instead of rubbing the -sugar on the outside of lemons add a small quantity of essence of almonds. - - -APPLE CHEESE-CAKES.--Apple cheese-cakes can be made in a similar manner to -apple custard, the only difference being that the mixture is baked till it -sets. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES. - - -There are few articles of diet more wholesome than fruit, in every shape, -provided it is _fresh_. It is a great mistake, however, to suppose that -fruit, when too stale to be eaten as it is, is yet good enough for stewing. -We often hear, especially in summer weather, of persons being made ill from -eating fruit. Probably in every case the injury results, not from eating -fruit as fruit, but from eating it when it is too stale to be served as an -article of food at all. There is an immense amount of injury done to this -country by the importation of rotten plums, more especially from Germany, -and it is to be regretted that more stringent laws are not made to prevent -the importation of all kinds of food hurtful to health. - -We will suppose that in every recipe we are about to give the fruit is at -any rate fresh; we do not say ripe, because there are many instances in -which fruit not ripe enough to be eaten raw is exceedingly wholesome when -stewed properly and sweetened. As an instance we may mention green -gooseberries and hard greengages, which, though quite uneatable in their -natural state, yet make delicious fruit pies or dishes of stewed fruit. Of -all dishes there are few to equal what is called a compote of fruit, and -there are probably few sweets more popular than-- - - -COMPOTE OF FRUIT.--A compote of fruit consists of a variety of fresh fruits -mixed together in a bowl. Some may be stewed and some served in their -natural state, or the whole may be stewed. When a large variety of fruits -can be obtained, and are sent to table in an old-fashioned china family -bowl, few dishes present a more elegant appearance, especially if you -happen to possess an old-fashioned punch ladle, an old silver bowl with a -black whalebone handle. Care should be taken to keep the fruit from being -broken. The following fruits will mix very well, although, of course, it -is impossible always to obtain every variety. We can have strawberries, -raspberries, red, white, and black currants, and cherries, as well as -peaches, nectarines, and apricots. We can also have stewed apples and -stewed pears. Very much, of course, will depend upon the time of year. -Those fruits that want stewing should be placed in some hot syrup -previously made, and only allowed to stew till tender enough to be eaten. -Tinned fruits, especially apricots, can be mixed with fresh fruits, only it -is best not to use the syrup in the tin, as it will probably overpower the -flavour of the other fruits. The syrup, as far as possible, should be -bright and not cloudy. The fruit in the bowl should be mixed, but should -not be stirred up. We should endeavour as much as possible to keep the -colours distinct. If strawberries or raspberries form part of the compote, -the syrup will get red. Should black currants be present, avoid breaking -them, as they spoil the appearance of the syrup. In summer the compote of -fruits is much improved by the addition of a lump of ice and a glass of -good old brandy. Should the compote of fruits, as is often the case, be -intended for a garden party, where it will have to stand a long time, if -possible get a small bowl, like those in which gold and silver fish are -sold in the street for sixpence, and fill this with ice and place it in the -middle of the larger bowl containing fruit, otherwise the melted ice will -utterly spoil the juice that runs from the fruit, which is sweetened with -the syrup and flavoured with the brandy. If much brandy be added, old -ladies at garden parties will be found to observe that the juice is the -best part of it. - - -APPLES, STEWED.--Peel and cut out the cores of the apples, and stew them -gently in some syrup composed of about half a pound of white sugar and -rather more than a pint of water. A small stick of cinnamon, or a few -cloves, and a strip of lemon-peel can be added to the syrup, but should be -taken out when finished. The apples should be stewed till they are tender, -but must not be broken. The syrup in which the apples are stewed should of -course be served with them. This syrup can be coloured slightly with a few -drops of cochineal, but should not be coloured more than very slightly. -The syrup looks a great deal better if it is clear and bright. It can be -strained and clarified. Apples are very nice stewed in white French wine, -such as Chablis or Graves. - - -STEWED PEARS.--Pears known as cooking pears take a long time to stew. They -should be peeled and the cores removed, and then stewed very gently in a -syrup composed of half a pound of sugar to about a pint and a half of -water; add a few cloves to the syrup, say two cloves to each pear. The -pears will probably take from two to three hours to stew before they are -tender. When tender add a glass of port wine and a little cochineal. If -the pears are stewed, like they are abroad, in claret, add cinnamon instead -of the cloves. - - -STEWED RHUBARB.--Stewed rhubarb is of two kinds. When it first comes into -season it is small, tender, and of a bright red colour, and when stewed -makes a very pretty dish. The red rhubarb should be cut into little pieces -about two inches long. Very little water will be required, as the fruit -contains a great deal of water in itself. The amount of sugar added -depends entirely upon taste. The stewed rhubarb should be sent to table -unbroken, and floating in a bright red juice. - -When rhubarb is old and green it is best served more like a puree, or -mashed. Very old rhubarb is often stringy, and can with advantage be -rubbed through a wire sieve. It is no use attempting to colour old rhubarb -red, but you can improve its colour by the addition of a very little -spinach extract. A few strips of lemon-peel can be stewed with old -rhubarb, but should never be added to young red rhubarb. - - -GOOSEBERRIES, STEWED.--Young green gooseberries stewed, strange to say, -require less sugar than ripe gooseberries. It is best to stew the fruit -first, and add the sugar afterwards. The amount of sugar varies very much -with the quality of the gooseberries. - - -PRUNES, STEWED.--The prunes should be washed before they are stewed. They -will not take more than half an hour to stew, and a strip of lemon-peel -should be placed in the juice. Stewed prunes are much improved by the -addition of a little port wine. - - -PLUMS, STEWED.--Stewed plums, such as black, ordinary, or greengages, or -indeed any kind of stone fruit, can be stewed in syrup, and have this -advantage--plums can be used this way which could not be eaten at all if -they were raw. These fruits are much nicer cold than hot. In many cases, -in stewing stone fruit (and this applies particularly to peaches, apricots, -and nectarines), the stones should be removed and cracked and the kernels -added to the fruit. - - -CHERRIES, STEWED.--Large white-heart cherries form a very delicate dish -when stewed. Very little water should be added, and the syrup should be -kept as white as possible, and, if necessary, strained. Stew the cherries -till they are tender, but do not let them break. Colour the syrup with a -few drops of cochineal, and add a glass of maraschino. - - -ICES.--Ices are too often regarded as expensive luxuries, and show how -completely custom rules the majority of our housekeepers. There are many -houses where the dinner may consist daily of soup, fish, entrees, joint, -game, and wine, and yet, were we to suggest a course of ices, the worthy -housekeeper would hesitate on the ground of extravagance. It is difficult -to argue with persons whose definition of economy is what they have always -been accustomed to since they were children, and whose definition of -extravagance is anything new. The fact remains, however, that there is -many a worthy signor who sells ices in the streets at a penny each, and -manages to make a living out of the profit not only for himself, but for -his signora as well. Under these circumstances, the manufacture of these -"extravagances" is worthy of inquiry. Ices can be made at home very -cheaply with an ice machine, which can now be obtained at a, comparatively -speaking, small cost. With a machine there is absolutely no trouble, and -directions will be given with each machine, so that any details here, which -vary with the machine, will be useless. Ices can be made at home without a -machine with a little trouble, and, to explain how to do this, it is -necessary to explain the theory of ice-making, which is exceedingly simple. -We will not allude to machines dependent on freezing-powders, but to those -which rely for their cold simply on ice and salt mixed. We will suppose we -want a lemon-water ice, _i.e._, we have made some very strong and sweet -lemonade, and we want to freeze it. It is well known that water will -freeze at a certain temperature, called freezing-point. By mixing chopped -ice and salt and a very little water together, a far greater degree of cold -can be immediately produced, viz., a thermometer would stand at 32 degrees -below freezing-point were it to be plunged into this mixture. An ice -machine is a metal pail placed in another pail much larger than itself. -The "sweet lemonade" is placed in the middle pail, and chopped ice and salt -placed outside it. The proportion of ice to salt should be double the -weight of the former to the latter. It is now obvious that if we have -filled two pails, the one with "the sweet lemonade," and the other with the -ice and salt, very soon our lemonade will be a solid block of ice. To -prevent this it must be constantly stirred, and, as the lemonade would of -course freeze first against the sides of the pail, these sides must be -constantly scraped. Inside the inner pail, consequently, there is a -stirrer, which, by means of a handle, continually scrapes the side of the -pail. It is obvious that if the stirrer is fixed, and the pail itself made -to revolve, that is the same as if the pail were fixed and the stirrer made -to revolve. To make lemon-water ice, therefore, place the lemonade in the -inner pail, surrounded with chopped ice and salt, two parts of the former -to one of the latter, turn the handle, and in a few minutes the ice is -made. Now, suppose you have not got a machine, proceed as follows: Take an -empty, clean, round coffee-tin (the larger the better). [We mention -coffee-tin as the most probable one to be in the house, but any round tin -will do.] Get a clean piece of wood, the same width as the inside diameter -of the tin, only it must be a great deal longer. We will suppose the tin -rather more than a foot deep and five inches in diameter. Our piece of -wood, which should be clean and smooth, must be nearly five inches wide, -say a quarter of an inch thick, and about two feet long. Next get a small -tub, say nine inches deep, place the round tin in the middle, with the -sweet lemonade inside; next place the piece of wood upright in the tin, so -that the wood touches the bottom. Next surround the tin with chopped ice -and salt up to the edge of the tub, fill it as high as you can, and then -cover it round with a blanket, _i.e._, cover the ice and salt. Now get -someone to hold the wooden board steady; take the tin in your two hands, -and turn it round and round, first one way and then another. In a very -short time you will find the tin to contain lemon-water ice. The following -hints, rather than recipes, for making ices, _i.e._, for making the liquid, -which must be frozen as directed above, are given, not because they are the -best recipes, but because cream, which is the basis of all first-class -ices, is often too expensive to be used constantly. Of course, real cream -is far superior to any substitute. - - -ICE CREAM, CHEAP.--Make a custard (_see_ CUSTARD) with half a pint of milk, -the yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoonful of Swiss milk and some sugar. -As soon as it gets a little thick, stir it till it is nearly cold, then add -some essence of vanilla or almonds, or a wineglassful of noyeau, or any -flavouring wished, and freeze. - - -ICES FROM FRESH FRUITS.--Take half a pound of fresh strawberries or -raspberries, add half that weight of sugar, pound thoroughly, rub through a -sieve, and mix with this thick juice, rubbed through, half a pint of the -mixture made for ice cream (_see_ ICE CREAM, CHEAP), only, of course, -without any flavouring such as vanilla, etc. Mix thoroughly, and freeze. - -N.B.--A few red currants should be mixed with the raspberries. Should the -colour be poor, brighten it up before freezing with a little cochineal. - - -ICES FROM JAM.--Mix a quarter of a pound of any jam with half a pint of the -mixture made for ice cream (_see_ ICE CREAM, CHEAP), without any flavouring -such as vanilla. Rub all through a fine sieve, and freeze. Cochineal will -give additional colour to red jams; spinach extract to green jams; and a -very little turmeric, or yellow vegetable colouring, to yellow jams. A -small pinch of turmeric can be boiled in the milk. - - -ICE, LEMON-WATER.--Rub six lumps of sugar on the rind of six lemons, add -this and the juice of six lemons to a pint of fairly sweet syrup. The -amount of sugar is a matter of taste. Strain and freeze. Some persons add -a few drops of dilute sulphuric acid. - - -ICE, ORANGE-WATER.--Act exactly as in lemon-water, using oranges instead of -lemons, and syrup containing less sugar. - - -ICE, WATER FRUIT.--All sorts of water fruit ices can be made by mixing half -a pint of juice, such as currant-juice, with twice that quantity of syrup, -and freezing. Grated ripe pine-apple, pounded and bruised, ripe cherries -and greengages, strawberry-juice, raspberry-juice, can be mixed with syrup -and frozen. Sometimes a little lemon-juice can be added with advantage, -and in the case of cherry ice and greengage ice a little noyeau added is an -improvement. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -CAKES AND BREAD. - - -In vegetarian cookery there is no difference, as far as cake-making is -concerned, between it and ordinary cookery. In making cakes we will -confine our attention chiefly to general principles which, if once known, -render cake-making of every description comparatively easy work. Those who -wish for detailed _recipes_ for making almost every kind of cake known will -find all that they require on a large scale in "Cassell's Dictionary of -Cookery," and also everything necessary on a smaller scale in "Cassell's -Shilling Cookery," which has already reached its hundred-thousandth -edition. - -Cakes may be divided into two classes--those that contain fruit and those -that do not. Plum cakes can be made very rich indeed, like a wedding cake, -or so plain that it can scarcely be distinguished from a loaf of bread with -a few currants in it. Again, cakes that contain no fruit can, at the same -time, be made exceedingly rich, the richness chiefly depending upon the -amount of butter and eggs that are used. We will first give a few -directions with regard to making what may be termed plain cakes, _i.e._, -cakes that contain no fruit at all. Perhaps the best model we can give to -illustrate the general principles will be that of a pound cake. The recipe -is a very easy one to recollect, as a pound cake means one that is made -from a pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of eggs, and a pound of -flour. There is one addition, however, which the good plain cook will -probably not be up to, and which, so far as flavour is concerned, makes all -the difference between Francatelli and "Jemima Ann"--we must rub some of -the lumps of sugar on the outsides of either two oranges or two lemons. It -is also a great improvement to add a small glass of brandy, and in every -kind of cake we must add a pinch of salt. - -In making cakes it is always necessary to be careful about the butter. It -is best to put the butter in cold water before it is used, and, if salt -butter, it should be washed in several waters to extract the salt. The -next thing necessary is to beat the butter to a cream. To do this it must -be worked about in a basin with a wooden spoon. The basin should be a -strong one, and a wooden spoon is far preferable to a metal one. You -simply beat the butter and spread it against the sides of the basin and -knock it about till it loses its consistency. You cannot beat the butter -to the consistency of ordinary cream, but to a state more resembling -Devonshire clotted cream. Of course, when it is like this it is much more -easily mixed with the other ingredients. In making a pound cake we should -first of all beat the butter to a cream and then add flour, sugar, and eggs -gradually. When the whole is thoroughly well mixed together, we must bake -it in a tin, or mould, or hoop. We need say nothing about tins or moulds, -but will confine ourselves to giving directions how to bake a cake in a -hoop, for, as a rule, ordinary English cooks do not understand how to use -them. - -One great advantage of using a hoop is that when the cake is baked there is -no fear of breaking it in turning it out. A very simple hoop can be made -with an ordinary slip of tin, say six inches wide; as the tin will lap -over, the cake can be made any size round you wish. It is a good plan to -fasten a piece of copper wire round the outside of the tin. This can be -twisted, and when the cake is baked and has got cold can be untwisted, and -the tin will then open of its own accord. The tin must be lined with -buttered paper, and buttered paper must be placed on a flat piece of tin at -the bottom. When an "amateur hoop" is used like we have described, care -must be taken that the cake does not come out at the bottom. The cake, -especially when it is made with beaten-up eggs, like sponge cake, will -rise, and unless precautions are taken the tin will rise with it, and the -unset portion of the cake break loose round the edge at the bottom. To -prevent this the tin must be kept down with a weight at the top. In a -proper hoop made for the purpose there are appliances for fastening the -hoop together itself and also for keeping it in its place, but if we use a -strip of tin we must place something across the tin on the top and then put -on a heavy weight. When this is done, you must remember to allow room for -the cake to rise. A pound cake such as we have described can be made into -a rich fruit cake by adding stoned raisins, currants, chopped candied peel, -sultana raisins, or, better still, dried cherries. In making ordinary -cakes, when currants are used, they should be first washed and then dried; -if you use damp currants the cake will probably be heavy. - -With regard to the flour, it is cheapest in the end to use the best -quality, and the flour should be dried and sifted. If you weigh the flour -remember to dry and sift it before you weigh it, and not after. In using -sugar get the best loaf; this should also be pounded and sifted. - -In using eggs, of course each egg should be broken separately. Very often -it is necessary to separate the yolks from the whites. This requires some -little skill; you are less likely to break the yolk when you crack the egg -boldly. Put the yolk from one half egg-shell into the other half, spilling -as much of the white as you can. You will soon get the yolks separate. -Next, remember before mixing the eggs to remove the thread or string from -them. When the whites are beaten separately, you must whisk them till they -become a solid froth; no liquid should remain at the bottom of the basin. -The yolks should not be broken till they are wanted. - -Lemon-peel is often used in making cakes, and in chopping it a little -powdered sugar is a great assistance in preventing the peel sticking -together. Remember only to use the _yellow_ part, not the white. The -white part gives the cake a bitter flavour. - -Sometimes milk or cream is used in cake-making. If Swiss milk is used as a -substitute, remember that less sugar will be required. - -When pounded almonds are used for cakes, the almonds must be blanched by -being thrown, first into boiling water, and then into cold water. In -pounding them, add a little rose-water or orange-flower water, or the white -of an egg, to prevent the almonds getting oily. - -Nearly all plain cakes, where only a few eggs are used, will be made -lighter by the addition of a little baking-powder. A very good -baking-powder is made by mixing an ounce of tartaric acid with an ounce and -a half of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. The -baking powder should be kept very dry. - -A very nice way of making home-made cakes is to use some dough, which can -be procured from the baker's. Suppose you have a quartern of dough, put it -in a basin, cover it over with a cloth, and put it in front of the fire to -rise, then spread it on a floured pastry-board, slice it up, and work in -half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, a -teaspoonful of salt, and half an ounce of caraway seeds. When all the -ingredients are thoroughly mixed, place them in two or more well-buttered -tins or hoops, and let them stand in front of the fire a little while -before they are placed in the oven. Cakes can be flavoured with a variety -of spices, such as cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, or powdered coriander seeds. -These last are always used to give a special flavour to hot cross buns. - - -BREAD.--Home-made bread is not so much used now as it was years back. Most -housekeepers have found by experience that it is a waste both of time and -money. There are very few houses among the middle classes which possess an -oven capable of competing with any chance of success with a baker's oven. -There are, however, many vegetarians who believe in what is called -whole-meal bread. A good deal of the whole-meal bread sold as such has -been found to be adulterated with substances very unwholesome to ordinary -stomachs. We may mention saw-dust as one of the ingredients used for the -purpose. Again, if you attempt to make whole-meal bread into loaves, you -will find great difficulty in baking the loaves. This whole-meal is a very -slow conductor of heat, and the result will probably be that the outside of -the loaf will be very hard while the inside will be too underdone to be -eaten. Consequently, should you wish to have home-made whole-meal bread, -it is far best to bake it in the form of a tea-cake or flat-cake. We -cannot do better, in conclusion, than quote what Sir Henry Thompson says on -this subject:--"The following recipe," he says, "will be found successful, -probably, after a trial or two, in producing excellent, light, friable, and -most palatable bread: To two pounds of coarsely ground or crushed -whole-meal, add half a pound of fine flour and a sufficient quantity of -baking powder and salt; when these are well mixed, rub in two ounces of -butter, and make into dough with half milk and water, or with all milk if -preferred. Make rapidly into flat cakes like 'tea-cakes,' and bake without -delay in a quick oven, leaving them afterwards to finish thoroughly at a -lower temperature. The butter and milk supply fatty matters, in which the -wheat is somewhat deficient; all the saline and mineral matters of the husk -are retained; and thus a more nutritive form of bread cannot be made. -Moreover, it retains the natural flavour of the wheat, in place of the -insipidity which is characteristic of fine flour, although it is -indisputable that bread produced from the latter, especially in Paris and -Vienna, is unrivalled for delicacy, texture, and colour. Whole meal may be -bought; but mills are now cheaply made for home use, and wheat may be -ground to any degree of coarseness desired." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -PIES AND PUDDINGS. - - -In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made in the same -way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception that we cannot use lard or -dripping in making our pastry. Nor are we allowed to use suet in making -crust for puddings. It would have been quite impossible to have given even -one quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, and we must -refer those who wish for information on this subject to "Cassell's Shilling -Cookery," where will be found a very complete list, but which would have -occupied the whole of the space which we have devoted to recipes where -vegetarian cookery, as a rule, _differs_ from the ordinary. - -We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to the two points -we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry without lard or dripping, and -pudding crust without suet. The first of these two points causes no -difficulty whatever, as the best pastry, especially that known as puff -paste, is invariably made with butter only as the fatty element; but there -is one point we must not overlook. - -Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use the animal -products--butter, milk, cream, and eggs--and those who do not. This latter -class contains, probably, the most respected members of the vegetarian -body, as it will always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid -by all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to make pastry, -butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We fear we cannot tell them -how to make good puff paste; but "Necessity is the mother of invention," -and naturally olive oil must supply the place of butter. - - -PASTRY WITHOUT BUTTER.--We will describe how to make a small quantity, -which is always best when we make experiments. Take half a pound of the -best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a salt-spoonful of -baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, and work the -oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a small piece -of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff paste. Next -add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; roll it out -and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the method used -in making high-class pastry. - -We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is used more oil may -be added. - -We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature than water, -consequently the minute particles of oil become partially solid. Now take -the paste, roll it out, and give it three turns; roll it out again, give it -three more turns, and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be careful to -flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By this means we get the -pastry in thin layers, with minute air bubbles between them, and this will -cause the pastry to rise. If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the -last time, cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the -pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a very cold -place. - -This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be utilised for -puddings, in which latter case we would recommend the addition of a little -more baking-powder, and to every pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of -very fine bread-crumbs. These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine -sieve. - - -PASTRY WITH BUTTER.--Good puff paste is made by taking equal quantities of -butter and flour--say a pound of each--the yolk of one egg, a pinch of -salt, while the water used is acidulated with lemon-juice. For the -manipulation of this pastry we must refer those who do not know how to make -it to other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. In -making ordinary paste we must use less butter; and when we use considerably -less butter, if we wish the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder. -The quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many persons make their -own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend any better than the recipe given -in the last chapter, viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half -of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A great -deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna flour is much -more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably superior. What limit -we can assign to the quantity of butter used it is impossible to say. A -quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of -baking-powder, will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the result -is not altogether satisfactory. - - -PUDDINGS.--We next come to the very large class of puddings in which suet -is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case in point. The best -substitute for suet, of course, is butter or oil; a plum pudding, however, -made without suet, would undoubtedly be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must -use butter, bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to -give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients. -Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum pudding, and no flour, in -which case, of course, a very considerable number of eggs must be used or -else the pudding will break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being -used as a substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the -oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted English -prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, and it has often been -remarked by high-class authorities that really pure butter ought to be the -same. We fear, however, that purity in food is the exception rather than -the rule, as at no period of this country's history has the crime of -adulteration been so rampant as in the present day. - -Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. Too often -adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. Steps have been taken in -recent years to put a stop to this universal system of fraud, more -especially in connection with butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the -"Margarine Act" we believe that this country would be richer and happier, -and without doubt more healthy. - -In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, cabinet pudding, -there is no difference whatever in vegetarian cookery. It would be quite -impossible to make any of these puddings without eggs, and when eggs are -used we may take for granted that butter is allowed also. - -We have, throughout, called particular attention to the importance of -appearances. In the case of all puddings made with eggs and baked in a -dish, it is a very great improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg, -and to beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar. -When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white froth, and let it -set by placing it in a slack oven for two or three minutes. Whether the -pudding is served hot or cold, the result is the same. An otherwise plain -and somewhat common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the -only extra expense being a little _trouble_. - -We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: "Whatsoever thy hand -findeth to do, do it with thy might." - - - - -INDEX. - - -Allemande Sauce, 44 - -Almond Cheesecakes, 170 - Fritters, 119 - Sauce, 44 - Sauce, Clear, 45 - Soup, 23 - -Apple Cheesecakes, 170 - Custard, 168 - Fritters, 118 Jam, 161 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - -Apples, Stewed, 172 - -Apricot Fritters, 119 - Jam, 164 - Jelly, 163 - -Apricots Tinned, 155 - with Cream, 156 - -Aromatic Herbs, 32 - -Arrowroot Sauce, 45 - -Artichokes, French, 137 - a la Provencale, 137 - Boiled, 137 - Fried, 137 - Salad, 102 - -Artichoke, Jerusalem, 137 - Fried, 138 - Mashed, 138 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - -Asparagus and Eggs, 85 - Boiled, 139 - Salad, 101 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - Tinned, 153 - -Ayoli, 115 - - -Baking-Powder, 180 - -Banana Fritters, 119 - -Barley and Rice Porridge, 75 - Soup, 25 - -Batter for Fritters, 116 - -Beans, Broad, 139 - a la Bourgeoise, 139 - a la Poulette, 139 - Mashed, 139 - Salad, 103 - Soup, 27 - -Beans, French, 139 - Pudding, 140 - Salad, 102 - Soup, 27 - Tinned, 154 - -Beans, Haricot, 131 - Salad, 103 - Soup, Red, 26 - Soup, White, 26 - -Beetroot Salad, 102 - Soup, 26 - -Beurre Noir, 48 - -Blackberry Jam, 164 - Jelly, 158 - -Black Butter, 48 - and Eggs, 86 - -Black Currant Jam, 164 - Jelly, 160 - Sauce, 45 - -Bread, 180 - and Milk, 75 - Potato, 129 - Sauce, 45 - Whole-Meal, 180 - -Brocoli, 141 - Greens, 141 - -Brown Mushroom Sauce, 55 - Onion Sauce, 55 - -Brown Roux, 22 - Thickening, 22 - -Brussels Sprouts, 141 - Tinned, 154 - -Butter, Black, 48 - Maitre d'hotel, 53 - Melted, 48 - Oiled, 48 - Sauce, 46 - - -Cabbage, 142 - and Cream, 143 - and Rice, 63 - large White, 142 - Red, 143 - Soup, 27 - -Cakes, 177 - Parsnip, 147 - Pound, 179 - -Caper Sauce, 49 - -Carrot Jam, 164 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 27 - -Carrots, Boiled, 143 - Fried, 144 - Mashed, 144 - Tinned, 154 - -Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce, 145 - au gratin, 144 - Boiled, 144 - Salad, 104 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 28 - -Casseroles, 64 - -Celery and Eggs, 85 - Salad, 103 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 29 - Stewed, 145 - -Cheesecakes, 165-168 - Almond, 170 - Apple, 170 - from Curds, 169 - Orange, 170 - Potato, 169 - -Cheese and Eggs, 89 - and Fried Bread, 113 - and Rice, 63 - Devilled, 114 - Fritters, 117 - -Cheese Ramequins, 114 - Sandwiches, 107 - Savoury, 113 - Souffle, 92 - Soup, 29 - Stewed, 114 - Straws, 114 - Toasted, 114 - -Cherry Sauce, 49 - Soup, 29 - -Cherries, Stewed, 174 - -Chestnut Sauce, 49 - Soup, 30 - -Chestnuts and Macaroni, 72 - -Chocolate Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - -Chutney Sauce, 53 - -Cinnamon Sauce, 49 - -Clear Soup, 30 - -Cocoanut Sauce, 49 - Soup, 31 - -Coffee Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - -Cottage Soup, 30 - -Cream and Macaroni, 73 - Cheese Sandwiches, 107 - Chocolate, 166 - Coffee, 166 - Fritters, 120 - Lemon, 166 - Maraschino, 166 - Orange, 166 - Pistachio, 167 - Strawberry, 167 - Vanilla, 166 - -Creams, 165 - -Croquettes, Potato, 127 - Rice, 65 - -Cucumber and Eggs, 88 - Salad, 102 - Sauce, 49 - -Currant Sauce, Black, 50 - Red, 50 - Black, Jam, 164 - Black, Jelly, 160 - Red, Jam, 164 - Red, Jelly, 161 - -Curried Eggs, 82 - Lentils, 136 - Rice 63 - Vegetables, 151 - -Curry Sauce, 50 - -Custard, Apple, 168 - Cheap, 168 - Fritters, 119 - -Custards, 167 - -Cutlets, Potato, 127 - - -Damson Jam, 164 - Jelly, 162 - -Dandelion Salad, 103 - -Devilled Cheese, 114 - Eggs, 82 - -Dutch Sauce, 51 - Green, 51 - - -Egg Balls, 83 - Forcemeat, 83 - Salad, 99 - Sandwiches, 106 - Sauce, 51 - Toast, 85 - -Eggs, 78 - a la bonne femme, 8 - a la Dauphine, 85 - a la tripe, 83 - and Asparagus, 85 - Black Butter, 86 - Celery, 85 - Cheese, 89 - Cucumber, 88 - Garlic, 86 - Mushrooms, 86 - Onions, 87 - Potatoes, 87 - Rice, 66 - Sauce Robert, 87 - Sorrel, 87 - Spinach, 85 - Turnip-tops, 85 - au gratin, 84 - Boiled, 78 - Hard, 81 - Broiled, 87 - Buttered, 88 - Curried, 82 - Devilled, 82 - Fried, 80 - in Sunshine, 88 - Little, 89 - Poached, 81 - Scrambled, 88 - To Break, 80 - -Endive, 145 - Salad, 100 - Soup, 31 - -English Salad, 97 - -Extract of Spinach, 25 - - -Fennel Sauce, 51 - -Flageolets, 133 - Tinned, 154 - -Fond d'Artichokes, 155 - -Forcemeat of Egg, 83 - of Mushroom, 110 - -Frangipane Fritters, 120 - -French Beans, 139 - Bean Salad, 102 - Soup, 27 - Pudding, 140 - Salad, 97 - -Fritters, 116 - Almond, 119 - Apple, 118 - Apricot, 119 - Banana, 119 - Batter for, 116 - Cheese, 117 - Chocolate, 119 - Coffee, 119 - Cream, 120 - Custard, 119 - Frangipane, 120 - Game, 117 - German, 121 - Ginger and Rice, 121 - Hominy, 117 - Mushroom, 116 - Orange, 120 - Pine Apple, 120 - Peach, 120 - Potato, 120 - Rice, 121 - Sage and Onion, 118 - Spinach, 118 - Sweet, 118 - Tomato, 117 - Vanilla, 119 - -Fruit, Compote of, 171 - Soup, 31 - Stewed, 171 - -Fruits, Bottled, 157 - Tinned, 155 - -Frumenty, 76 - - -Game Fritters, 117 - -Garlic and Eggs, 86 - -Garnish of Eggs, 89 - -German Fritters, 121 - Salad, 100 - Sauce, 51 - -Ginger Sauce, 52 - -Gooseberry Sauce, 52 - -Gooseberries, Stewed, 173 - -Green Bean Soup, 27 - Dutch Sauce, 51 - Mayonnaise Sauce, 54 - Pea Soup, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - - -Hare Soup, 32 -Haricot Beans, 131 - Bean Salad, 103 - Soup, Red, 26 - White, 26 - -Herbaceous Mixture, 32 - -Herbs, Aromatic, 32 - -Hominy, 76 - Fried, 76 - Fritters, 117 - -Hop Salad, 104 - -Horseradish Sauce, 52 - -Hotch Potch, 32 - - -Ice Cream, 176 - Lemon Water, 176 - Orange Water, 176 - Water Fruit, 177 - -Ices, 174 - from Fresh Fruit, 176 - from Jams, 176 - -Indian Pickle Sauce, 53 - Sandwiches, 106 - -Italian Salad, 104 - Sauce, 53 - - -Jam Apple, 161 - Apricot, 164 - Blackberry, 164 - Black Currant, 164 - Carrot, 164 - Damson, 164 - Gooseberry, 164 - Greengage, 164 - Plum, 164 - Raspberry, 164 - Red Currant, 164 - Rhubarb, 164 - Strawberry, 164 - Vegetable Marrow, 164 - -Jams, 163 - -Jardiniere Soup, 33 - -Jellies, 158 - -Jelly, Apple, 161 - Apricot, 163 - Blackberry, 158 - Black Currant, 160 - Damson, 162 - Lemon, 159 - Mulberry, 163 - Orange, 160 - Pine Apple, 162 - Raspberry, 161 - Red Currant, 161 - -Julienne Soup, 33 - - -Kale, Scotch, 148 - Sea, 148 - - -Leek Soup, 33 - -Leeks, Stewed, 145 - Welsh Porridge, 146 - -Lemon Cream, 166 - Jelly, 159 - Water, Ice, 176 - -Lentil Porridge, 75 - Puree a la Soubise, 34 - Soup, 33 - -Lentils, 135 - a la a Provencale, 136 - Boiled, 136 - Curried, 136 - -Lettuce Salad, 97 - -Lettuces, Stewed, 146 - with Peas, 146 - - -Macaroni, 67 - a la Reine, 69 - and Cheese, 68 - Chestnuts, 72 - Cream, 73 - Eggs, 69 - Tomatoes, 72 - as an Ornament, 70 - au gratin, 69 - Italian Fashion, 68 - Nudels, 71 - Savoury, 72 - Scolloped, 70 - Soup, Clear, 34 - Soup, Thick, 34 - Timbale of, 70 - -Macedoines, 155 - -Maitre d'hotel Sauce, 53 - Butter, 53 - -Mango Chutney Sauce, 53 - -Maraschino Cream, 166 - -Mayonnaise Salad, 98 - Sauce, 53 - Sauce, Green, 54 - -Melon Salad, 105 - -Milk Porridge, 75 - Soup, 35 - Toast, 77 - -Mint Sauce, 54 - -Mock Turtle Soup, 35 - -Mulberry Jelly, 163 - -Mulligatawny Soup, 35 - -Mushroom, Essence of, 44 - Forcemeat, 110 - Fritters, 116 - Pie, 110 - Cold, 110 - Pudding, 111 - Puree of, 55 - Sandwiches, 106 - Sauce, 54 - Brown, 55 - -Mushrooms, 108 - a la Bordelaise, 110 - a la Provencale, 110 - and Eggs, 86 - au gratin, 109 - Fried, 109 - Plain, 108 - -Mustard Sauce, 55 - -Mustard and Cress, 104 - Sandwiches, 106 - - -Nalesnikis, 116 - -Nettles, To Boil, 151 - - -Oatmeal Porridge, 73 - -Oiled Butter, 48 - -Omelet au Kirsch, 95 - au Rhum, 95 - Cheese, 92 - Fine Herbs, 92 - Onion, 92 - Plain, 91 - Potato, 92 - Potato, Sweet, 92 - Souffle, 93 - Sweet, 94 - Vegetable, 95 - with Jam, 94 - -Omelets, 89 - -Onion Omelet, 92 - Salad, 104 - Sauce, 55 - Brown, 55 - Soup, 35 - Brown, 36 - -Onions and Eggs, 87 - Baked, 146 - Plain, 146 - Stewed, 147 - Stuffed, 115 - -Orange Cheesecakes, 170 - Cream, 166 - Fritters, 120 - Jelly, 160 - Sauce, 56 - Water Ice, 176 - -Ox-tail Soup, 36 - - -Palestine Soup, 24 - -Pancakes, Polish, 116 - -Parsley Sauce, 56 - To Blanch, 26 - -Parsnip Cake, 147 - Soup, 36 - -Parsnips, 147 - Fried, 147 - Mashed, 147 - -Paste for Pies, 184. - Puddings, 185. - without Butter, 183. - -Peach Fritters, 120 - -Peaches, Tinned, 156 - -Peaches with Cream, 156 - -Pea Soup, Dried Green, 37 - Split Peas, 37 - Fresh Green, 38 - -Peas, Boiled, 148 - Brose, 134 - Dried, 133 - Dried Green with Cream, 135 - Dried whole Green, 134 - Green, 148 - Pudding, 134 - Stewed, 148 - Tinned, 153 - -Pear Soup, 37 - -Pears, Stewed, 173 - Tinned, 156 - -Pie, Mushroom, 110 - Mushroom, Cold, 111 - Potato, 112 - Pumpkin, 113 - -Pies and Puddings, General, 183 - Paste for, 184. - -Pine Apple Fritters, 120 - Ice, 177 - Jelly, 162 - Sauce, 56 - Tinned, 156 - -Piroski Sernikis, 116 - -Pistachio Cream, 167 - -Plum Jam, 164 - Sauce, 56 - -Plums, Stewed, 174 - -Polenta, 115 - -Poached Eggs, 81 - -Poivrade Sauce, 57 - -Polish Pancakes, 116 - -Porridge, Barley and Rice, 75 - Milk, 75 - Lentil, 75 - Oatmeal, 73 - Sago, 77 - Whole Meal, 75 - -Potato Balls, 127 - Biscuits, 129 - Border, 128 - Bread, 129 - Cake, 129 - Cheese, 130 - Cheesecake, 169 - Chips, 126 - Croquettes, 127 - Fritters, 120 - Omelet, 92 - Omelet, Sweet, 92 - Ribbon, 126 - Salad, 101 - Soup, 38 - -Potatoes and Eggs, 87 - a la Barigoule, 130 - a la Lyonnaise, 131 - a la Maitre d'hotel, 127 - a la Provencale, 131 - Baked, 125 - Boiled, 123 - Broiled, 131 - Fried, 126 - Mashed, 125 - New, 127 - Saute, 126 - Steamed, 124 - -Pound Cake, 179 - -Prune Sauce, 57 - -Prunes, Stewed, 173 - -Pudding, Cheese, 114 - French Bean, 140 - Mushroom, 111 - Peas, 134 - Pumpkin, 113 - -Puddings, 182 - -Pumpkin a la Parmesane, 115 - Pie, 113 - Pudding, 113 - Soup, 39 - -Puree, Endive, 31 - Lentils, 34 - Mushroom, 55 - of Beans, Red, 26, - of Beans, White, 26 - of Chestnuts, 30 - Sorrel, 58 - - -Rarebit, Welsh, 115 - -Raspberry Ice, 176 - Jam, 164 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 57 - -Ramequins, Cheese, 114 - -Ratafia Sauce, 57 - -Ravigotte Sauce, 57 - -Red Currant Jam, 164 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 50 - -Red Haricot Bean Soup, 26 - -Rhubarb Soup, 39 - Stewed, 173 - -Rice, 60 - and Barley Porridge, 75 - and Cabbage, 63 - and Cheese, 63 - and Eggs, 66 - and Ginger Fritters, 121 - and Tomatoes, 66 - Boiled, 61 - Border, 64 - Croquettes, 65 - Curried, 63 - Fritters, 121 - Soup, 39 - Soup a la Royale, 39 - -Risotto, 62 - -Robert Sauce, 58 - -Roux, Brown, 22 - White, 22 - - -Sage and Onion Fritters, 118 - -Sago Porridge, 77 - Soup, 40 - -Salad, Artichoke, 102 - Asparagus, 101 - Bean, Broad, 103 - Bean, Haricot, 103 - Beetroot, 102 - Cauliflower, 104 - Celery, 103 - Cucumber, 102 - Dandelion, 103 - Egg, 99 - Endive, 100 - English, 97 - French, 97 - French Beans, 102 - German, 100 - Hop, 104 - Italian, 104 - Mayonnaise, 98 - Melon, 105 - Mixed, 98 - Mustard and Cress, 104 - Onion, 104 - Potato, 101 - Salsify, 101 - Sweet, 105 - Tomato, 99 - Water-cress, 103 - -Salads, 96 - -Salsify, Boiled, 151 - Salad, 101 - -Sandwiches, 105 - Cheese, 107 - Cream Cheese, 107 - Egg, 106 - Indian, 106 - Mushroom, 106 - Mustard and Cress, 106 - Tomato, 105 - -Sauce, Allemande, 44 - Almond, 44 - Almond, Clear, 45 - Apple, 45 - Arrowroot, 45 - Artichoke, 45 - Asparagus, 45 - Bread, 45 - Butter, 46 - Butter, Black, 48 - Butter, Oiled, 48 - Caper, 49 - Carrot, 49 - Cauliflower, 49 - Celery, 49 - Cherry, 49 - Chestnut, 49 - Cinnamon, 49 - Cocoa-nut, 49 - Cucumber, 49 - Currant, Black, 50 - Currant, Red, 50 - Curry, 50 - Dutch, 51 - Green, 51 - Egg, 51 - Fennel, 51 - German Sweet, 51 - Ginger, 52 - Gooseberry, 52 - Horseradish, 52 - Indian Pickle, 53 - Italian, 53 - Maitre d'hotel, 53 - Mango Chutney, 53 - Mayonnaise, 53 - Green, 54 - Mint, 54 - Mushroom, 54 - Brown, 55 - Puree, 55 - Mustard, 55 - Onion, 55 - Brown, 55 - Orange Cream, 56 - Parsley, 56 - Pine Apple, 56 - Plum, 56 - Poivrade, 57 - Prune, 57 - Radish, 57 - Raspberry, 57 - Ratafia, 57 - Ravigotte, 57 - Robert, 58 - Sorrel, 58 - Soubise, 58 - Sweet, 58 - Tarragon, 58 - Tartar, 58 - Tomato, 59 - Truffle, 59 - Vanilla, 59 - White, 59 - -Sauces, 44 - -Savoury Rice, 66 - -Scotch Broth, 40 - Kale, 148 - -Sea Kale, 148 - Soup, 40 - -Sorrel Sauce, 58 - Soup, 40 - -Soubise Sauce, 58 - -Souffle, Cheese, 92 - Omelet, 93 - -Soup, Almond, 23 - Apple, 24 - Artichoke, 24 - Asparagus, 24 - Barley, 25 - Bean, French, 27 - Green, 27 - Haricot, Red, 26 - Haricot, White 26 - Beetroot, 26 - Cabbage, 27 - Carrot, 27 - Cauliflower, 28 - Celery, 29 - Cheese, 29 - Cherry, 29 - Chestnut, 30 - Clear, 30 - Cocoanut, 31 - Cottage, 30 - Endive, 31 - Fruit, 31 - Green Pea, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - Hare, 32 - Hotch Potch, 32 - Jardiniere, 33 - Julienne, 33 - Leek, 33 - Lentil, 33 - Lentil a la Soubise, 34 - Macaroni, Clear, 34 - Thick, 34 - Milk, 35 - Mock Turtle, 35 - Mulligatawny, 35 - Onion, 35 - Brown, 36 - Ox-tail, 36 - Palestine, 24 - Parsnip, 36 - Pear, 37 - Pea, Split, 37 - Green, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - Potato, 38 - Pumpkin, 39 - Rhubarb, 39 - Rice, 39 - a la Royale, 39 - Sago, 40 - Scotch Broth, 40 - Sea Kale, 40 - Sorrel, 40 - Spinach, 41 - Tapioca, 41 - Tomato, 41 - Turnip, 42 - Vegetable, 33 - Marrow, 42 - Vermicelli, 42 - White, 42 - White, 43 - -Soups, 23 - General Instructions, 17 - -Sparghetti, 67 - -Spinach, 149 - and Eggs, 85 - Extract of, 25 - Fritters, 118 - Soup, 41 - Tinned, 154 - -Stock, 21 - -Strawberry Cream, 167 - Ice, 176 - Jam, 164 - -Sweet Fritters, 118 - Omelet, 94 - Salads, 105 - Sauce, 58 - German, 51 - - -Tagliatelli, 73 - -Tapioca Soup, 41 - -Tarragon Sauce, 58 - -Tartar Sauce, 58 - -Thickening, Brown, 22 - White, 22 - -Timbale of Macaroni, 70 - -Toast, Egg, 85 - Milk, 77 - -Tomato Fritters, 117 - Pie, 112 - Salad, 99 - Sandwiches, 105 - Sauce, 59 - Soup, 41 - -Tomatoes and Macaroni, 72 - and Rice, 66 - au Gratin, 111 - Baked, 111 - Fried, 111 - Grilled, 111 - Stewed, 111 - -Truffle Sauce, 59 - -Turnip Soup, 42 - -tops, 151 - and Eggs, 85 - -Turnips, Boiled, 150 - Mashed, 150 - Ornamental, 150 - Tinned, 155 - - -Vanilla Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - Ice, 176 - Sauce, 59 - -Vegetable Curry, 151 - Marrow, 149 - Soup, 42 - Stuffed, 149 - Omelet, 95 - Soup, 42 - -Vegetables, Fresh, 137 - Preserved, 152 - Substantial, 122 - -Vermicelli Soup, 42 - Thick, 42 - - -Water-cress Salad, 103 - -Welsh Porridge, 146 - Rarebit, 115 - -White Haricot Bean Salad, 103 - Soup, 26 - Roux, 22 - Sauce, 59 - Soup, 43 - Thickening, 22 - -Whole-meal Bread, 180 - Porridge, 75 - - -Zucchetti Farcis, 115 - - * * * * * - -PRINTED BY CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, LONDON, E.C. - - * * * * * - -Cheap Edition (11_th Thousand_). - -Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d. - -WHAT GIRLS CAN DO. A Book for Mothers and Daughters. By PHYLLIS BROWNE, -Author of "A Year's Cookery." - -"Girls who are forced to earn their livelihood, are ambitious of making -themselves useful, or only desire not to be idle, may all consult with -advantage these pages, which have the great merit of being within the -compass of all to profit by."--_Times_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London._ - - * * * * * - -_Seventh and Cheap Edition._ - -Price 1s. 6d.; cloth, 2s. - -A HANDBOOK OF NURSING FOR THE HOME AND FOR THE HOSPITAL. By CATHERINE J. -WOOD, Lady Superintendent of the Hospital for Sick Children, Great Ormond -Street. - -"A book which every mother of a family ought to have, as well as every -nurse under training."--_Guardian_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_Ninth Edition_, extra fcap. 8vo, cloth, 6s. - -THE LADIES' PHYSICIAN. A Guide for Women to the Treatment of their -Ailments. 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"--_Athenaeum_. - - * * * * * - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_New and Revised Edition_, price 21s.; roxburgh, 25s - -The Family Physician. - -A Manual of Domestic Medicine by Physicians and Surgeons of the principal -London Hospitals. - -The range of subjects dealt with is wonderfully comprehensive, and THE BOOK -WILL BE WORTH TEN TIMES ITS COST by helping many a one to ward off some of -the 'ills that flesh is heir to.' It is of inestimable value. Many years' -experience of its far-reaching usefulness and trustworthiness enables us to -commend the work with the utmost confidence. 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Sample by post for 4s. 3d.; 4-1/2 lbs. -7s. 6d.; 6 [Transcriber's Note: Illegible.] lbs. 10s. 9d. - - * * * * * - -N.B.--No Charge for Carriage of Parcels of TEA [Transcriber's Note: -Illegible.] and over in England. -_Cheques [Transcriber's Note: Illegible.] - -BARBER AND COMPANY - -(Established in the last Century) - -274, REGENT CIRCUS, OXFORD STREET, W. - -61, Bishopsgate Street, London E.C. - -102, Westbourne Grove, W. - -67, Brixton Road, S.W. - -The Borough, London Bridge, S.E. - -King's Cross, N. - -42, Great Titchfield Street, W. - -Manchester--93, Market Street. - -Birmingham--Quadrant. - -Liverpool--4, Church Street, Winston Buildings, and 62 London Road. - -Preston--104, Fishergate. - -Bristol--33, Corn Street. - -Brighton--148, North Street. - -Hastings--Robertson Street, and Havelock Road. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. G. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - https://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/14594.zip b/old/14594.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index abe6c91..0000000 --- a/old/14594.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-0.txt b/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-0.txt deleted file mode 100644 index cbd63b8..0000000 --- a/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-0.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8655 +0,0 @@ -*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14594 *** - -CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - -BY A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - - * * * * * - -SUGG'S GOLD MEDAL "WESTMINSTER" -GAS KITCHENERS. - -ENAMELLED INSIDE AND UNDER HOT-PLATE. - -[Illustration] - -_PERFECT FOR ROASTING, BAKING, GRILLING, TOASTING, AND BOILING._ - -_WILL DO ALL THAT ANY STOVE OF THE SAME SIZE CAN DO--ONLY MUCH BETTER._ - -The only Gas Kitchener which Bakes Bread perfectly. Send for Pamphlet on -SUGG'S NEW METHOD OF BAKING BREAD. - -LET ON HIRE By the Gas Light and Coke Co., the South Metropolitan Gas Co., -Brentford, Tottenham, and many other Gas Companies. - -WILLIAM SUGG & CO., Ltd., REGENCY ST., WESTMINSTER. - - * * * * * - -Complete in Four Vols., price 5s. each. - -CASSELL'S - -Book of the Household. - -A Valuable and Practical Work on Every Department of Household Management. -_With Numerous Illustrations_. - -The _Guardian_ says: "AN EXCELLENT WORK, WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HANDS OF -EVERY HOUSEKEEPER, is CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD. Here we find the -most varied information and the soundest of advice. The household, its -members and their family life, are considered and discussed; children and -their training, health and disease, food and clothing, furnishing, -furniture, and household mechanics. The arrangement and treatment of these -various subjects are admirable, and the book is certainly a most valuable -and practical manual of household management." - -The _Queen_ says: "A BOOK SO HANDY AND PRACTICAL OUGHT TO BE ADOPTED BY -EVERY WELL-ORDERED FAMILY. Its plan is so comprehensive, it will include -every part of the house and its requirements, and all the members of the -family and their mutual relations, duties, and responsibilities." - -The _Weekly Dispatch_ says: "We do not know of any more practical or more -valuable work on household management. It is worth its weight in gold." - -The _Scotsman_ says: "The first volume has appeared of a book which -promises to be of great and extensive utility. It is A CYCLOPAEDIA OF -INFORMATION ON ALL QUESTIONS CONNECTED WITH THE MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD, -and does not enter into comparison with books that treat merely of -provisions for the table. Various hands have evidently been employed in -working up the various sections, and every subject is dealt with in a -thoroughly competent style. The book is admirably appointed in every -respect, and contains many illustrations, all of the most useful character, -and beautifully printed. EVERY ONE WHO HAS TO DO IN ANY WAY WITH THE -MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD WILL FIND THIS BOOK INVALUABLE." - -The _Liverpool Mercury_ says: "CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD is another -book, of a class of which many have been issued, and good books too; but -this one, by the thoroughness and comprehensiveness of its arrangement, -will go far to render the housewife who possesses it independent of all the -rest.... Many a housewife will find the articles interesting enough to be -taken up at any leisure hour." - -The _Glasgow Herald_ says: "The work promises to be the most complete thing -of the kind in existence, and even the first volume by itself is a perfect -household encyclopaedia." - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -SAVES TIME, TROUBLE, AND EXPENSE. - -ASK YOUR GROCER FOR GRIDLEY & CO'S ISINGLASSINE. - -"PURE, NUTRITIOUS AND WHOLESOME." - -_Arthur Hill Hassall_ -_E. Godwin Clayton_ - -A SIXPENNY PACKET WILL MAKE 1 QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY. - -NO BOILING OR SOAKING REQUIRED. TO BE HAD OF ALL GROCERS - -_THREE GOLD MEDALS AWARDED._ - -HIGHEST TESTIMONIALS. - - * * * * * - -The London Vegetarian Society, - -THE MEMORIAL HALL, FARRINGDON STREET, E.C. - -President--A.F. HILLS, Esq. -Treasurer--ERNEST BELL, Esq., M.A. -Secretary--MAY YATES. - -THE LONDON VEGETARIAN SOCIETY is established for the purpose of advocating -the total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, -and promoting instead a more extensive use of fruits, grains, nuts, and -other products of the vegetable kingdom; and also to disseminate -information as to the meaning and principles of Vegetarianism by lectures, -pamphlets, letters to the Press, &c.; and by these means, and through the -example and efforts of its Members, to extend the adoption of a principle -tending essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to -the increase of human happiness generally. - -Members adopt in its entirety the Vegetarian system of diet. Associates -agree to promote the aims of the Society, but do not pledge themselves to -its practice. - -SUBSCRIBERS ARE ENTITLED TO THE FOLLOWING ADVANTAGES: - -ONE SHILLING PER ANNUM.--Minimum Subscription. - -FIVE SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four -Debates, and Four Conversaziones at half-price, and be entitled to receive, -free by post, copies of all new literature published by the Society under -6d. - -TEN SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four -Debates, and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, copies of -all new literature published by the Society under 1s. - -ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four Debates -and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, all new literature -published by the Society under 2s., and copies of the _Vegetarian_, _The -Hygienic Review_, and the _Vegetarian Messenger_. - - * * * * * - -POOR MAN'S FRIEND AND PILLS. - -DR. ROBERTS' OINTMENT CALLED POOR MAN'S FRIEND Will Cure WOUNDS and SORES -of every description - -DR. ROBERTS' ALTERATIVE PILLS For DISEASES of the BLOOD and SKIN. - -_Of all Chemists, or of the Proprietors_, BRIDPORT, DORSET. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -THE "RAPID" COOKERY STEAMER. - -TO FIT ANY SAUCEPAN. - -_From 1s. each._ - -OF ALL IRONMONGERS. - - * * * * * - -_NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION._ - -A YEAR'S COOKERY. - -Giving Dishes for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Dinner for every Day in the -Year, By PHYLLIS BROWNE. Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. - -To the New Edition of this popular book (which has already attained a sale -of upwards of Twenty Thousand Copies) additional pages have been added on -Food for Invalids. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_Price_ 2s. 6d. - -A HANDBOOK FOR THE NURSING OF SICK CHILDREN. By CATHERINE J. WOOD. - -"Miss Wood's book is succinct, clearly written, and goes straight to the -heart of each detail in a thoroughly business-like fashion."--_Health_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_THE LARGEST, CHEAPEST, AND BEST COOKERY BOOK._ - -1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, 7s. 6d.; roxburgh, 10s. 6d. - -CASSELL'S -Dictionary of Cookery. - -ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT. - -CONTAINING ABOUT 9,000 RECIPES. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is one of the most thorough and -comprehensive works of the kind. To expatiate on its abundant contents -would demand pages rather than paragraphs."--_The Times_. - -"One of the most handsome, practical, and comprehensive books of -cookery."--_Saturday Review_. - -"It seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to be--that is, -the largest and most complete collection of the kind ever produced in this -country; an encyclopaedia, in fact, of the culinary art in all its -branches. It is a dictionary which should be in every household, and -studied by every woman who recognises her true mission in the -world."--_Christian World_. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is not only full of solid and valuable -information as to the best method of preparing food in an endless variety -of forms, but it will enable a housekeeper to grasp principles on which -food may be cooked to the greatest perfection. It supplies the reason why -one method is right and another wrong. An estimate of the cost of each -recipe is given, which is valuable information. The recipes themselves are -given in terms intelligible to the meanest capacity."--_Athenaeum_. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY contains about 9,000 recipes, and is -preceded by a treatise on the Principles of Culinary Art and Table -Management, which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks, as -those most interested in such instructions, but by every mistress of a -household, large or small.... The woodcuts dispersed through the pages not -only illustrate some of the various species of fish, game, fruit, -vegetables, and herbs to which the recipes refer, but serve to make the -directions for carving more intelligible, while the coloured plates -represent appetising dishes elaborately garnished, or fruit tastefully -arranged, with several less inviting pictures of 'bad and good joints of -meat' contrasted with each other side by side."--_Morning Post_. - -"The best Cookery book extant. We know of no equal, either in the -arrangement of its contents, the number of its recipes, or the elegance of -its illustrations."--_York Herald_. - -"Being complete, it tells us how to dress a table for the smallest dinner, -but what I value more in it is that it reminds us of the simplest and -cheapest of dishes, and gives their cost. There are more shilling or -sixpenny preparations in this book than those of greater cost."--_Western -Morning News_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -CASSELL'S -VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - - * * * * * - -CROSSE & BLACKWELL'S PICKLES, SAUCES, FLAVOURING ESSENCES, - -_PARISIAN ESSENCE FOR GRAVIES_, - -Grated Parmesan Cheese in Bottles, - -PURE LUCCA OIL, - -Malt Vinegar and Table Delicacies, - -_ARE SOLD BY ALL GROCERS_. - -CROSSE & BLACKWELL, - -Purveyors to the Queen, - -SOHO SQUARE, LONDON. - - * * * * * - - -CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - -A MANUAL OF _CHEAP AND WHOLESOME DIET_. - -BY - -A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - -AUTHOR OF "CHOICE DISHES," ETC. - -[Illustration] - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED: - -_LONDON, PARIS & MELBOURNE_. - -1891. - - * * * * * - -For Puddings, Blanc-Mange, Custards, CHILDREN'S AND INVALIDS' DIET, _And -all the Uses of Arrowroot_, - -BROWN & POLSON'S CORN FLOUR - -HAS A WORLD-WIDE REPUTATION, AND IS DISTINGUISHED FOR _UNIFORMLY SUPERIOR -QUALITY_. - -NOTE.--Purchasers should insist on being supplied with BROWN & POLSON'S -CORN FLOUR. Inferior qualities, asserting fictitious claims, are being -offered. - - * * * * * - -80th THOUSAND, _price_ 1s.; _post free_, 1s. 3d. - -CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY. - -This new and valuable Work contains 364 pages, crown 8vo, bound in limp -cloth. - -"This is the LARGEST AND MOST COMPREHENSIVE WORK on the subject of cookery -ever yet published at the price."--_Christian Age_. - -"Housekeepers WILL SAVE MANY SHILLINGS if they follow the practical -suggestions and excellent advice given."--_Bazaar_. - -"CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY is certainly the cheapest manual for the -kitchen we have ever received. There are 360 pages of recipes, the book is -serviceably bound, and should prove a treasure to any young wife."--_Weekly -Times and Echo_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The present work, though written upon strictly vegetarian principles, is by -no means addressed to vegetarians only. On the contrary, we hope that the -following pages of recipes will be read by that enormous class throughout -the country who during the last few years have been gradually changing -their mode of living by eating far _less_ meat, and taking vegetables and -farinaceous food as a substitute. - -Where there are thousands who are vegetarians from choice, there are tens -of thousands who are virtually vegetarians from necessity. Again, there is -another large class who from time to time adopt a vegetarian course of diet -on the ground of health, and as a means of escaping from the pains -attendant on gout, liver complaint, or dyspepsia. - -The class we most wish to reach, however, is that one, increasing we fear, -whose whole life is one continual struggle not merely to live, but to live -decently. - -It may seem a strong statement, but we believe it to be a true one, that -only those who have tried a strictly vegetarian course of diet know what -real _economy_ means. Should the present work be the means of enabling -even one family to become not only better in health but richer in pocket, -it will not have been written in vain. - -A.G. PAYNE. - - * * * * * - -SOLIDIFIED JELLY. - -[Illustration] - -By Royal Letters Patent in Great Britain and Ireland, 1888 Patented in the -Dominion of Canada, 1889. Patented in France, 1889. N. S. Wales, 1889. -Victoria, 1889. Other Foreign Rights reserved. - -CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES, - -The Inventor and Patentee, in introducing this high-class article of food, -begs to warn the Public that the great success and enormous demand the -CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES have obtained in Great Britain has brought many -imitators on the Market. A few Stores and Grocers are offering same to the -Public, no doubt for the purpose of wishing to appear cheaper, or for -making extra profit. The favour for the CHELSEA TABLE JELLY has been -obtained solely upon the merits of the article, and it is held to be the -greatest invention of the kind, bringing within the reach of all classes -this hitherto almost unobtainable luxury. This has been fully endorsed by -the unsolicited testimony of high-class British journals. - -The article is put up in cardboard boxes, in quantities to make 1/2-pints, -pints, and quarts of jelly, and the following are some of the flavours: -Lemon, Orange, Vanilla, Calves' Feet, Noyeau, Raspberry, Punch, and -Madeira. It should not be confounded with the ordinary fruit Jelly, which -is a totally different article, _this being a pure Calves' Feet jelly_, -superseding the use of gelatine in packets for jelly purposes--this latter, -as will easily be seen, being now a thing of the past. On each box is -printed a public analyst's report, also full directions for use. - -_The following advantages are claimed over all other Calves Feet -jellies_:-- - -1. It is less than one-third of the price of bottled jellies, and superior -in quality. - -2. It never gets mildewed or corky. - -3. It never fails to set or jellify. - -4. Its extreme simpleness of preparation, only requiring to be melted by -the addition of hot water, no flavouring or other matter being required. - -5. It will keep good for any time until made up, when it will keep good -longer than other jellies. - -6. The largest quantity can be made in a few minutes. - -For persons suffering from dyspepsia or any other ailment, it will also be -found to be a great boon, as it can be cut and eaten in the solidified -state with great satisfaction. On sea voyages and excursions of any kind -it will be found invaluable. - -_BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS, and ask only for the_ WALTER ROBERTSON -CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. - -ARTICLES OF MERIT ARE OFTEN PIRATED BY UNPRINCIPLED TRADERS. - -To be had of all GROCERS, STORES, and CONFECTIONERS. - - -_CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS_. - -Sample of CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. Received 1888. - -_I certify that the following are the results of the analysis of the above -samples_: - -I have examined a sample of Chelsea Table jelly, and find it to be a -mixture of Calves' Feet jelly and sugar; it is undoubtedly nutritious and -wholesome. - -It is superior to other samples that I have analysed, as it in much firmer -and keeps well. - -It is clear and bright, and has evidently been carefully manufactured from -pure materials. - -It has a pleasant flavour, and is of excellent quality. - -_(Signed)_ R. H. HARLAND, F.I,C., F.C.S. - -Laboratory, Plough Court, 37, Lombard Street. _Public Analyst_. - - -Copy of Testimonial received August 26th, 1891 (_unsolicited_). - -59, Windsor Road, Southport. _August 25th_, 1891. - -GENTLEMEN,--I may inform you that I have tried other makers of jellies, but -have found none to equal yours in excellence of quality. I have mentioned -this fact frequently to Mr. Seymour Mead and to my friends. I am also -deeply indebted to you from the fact that a little niece of mine was fed -almost exclusively on your Calves' Feet Jelly for a period of three months, -and who, when she refused to take other things, always took most willingly -to your jellies. - -Yours respectfully, - -W, ROBERTSON & Co. M. T. HANSON. - -_This and others may be inspected at the Works, Chelsea, London._ - - -INVENTORS AND SOLE MANUFACTURERS (WHOLESALE ONLY): - -WALTER ROBERTSON & CO., CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W., ENGLAND - - * * * * * - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -PAGE. - -CHAP. I.--Soups 17 - - II.--SAUCES 44 - III.--RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL 60 - IV.--EGGS AND OMELETS 78 - V.--SALADS AND SANDWICHES 96 - VI.--SAVOURY DISHES 108 - VII.--VEGETABLES, SUBSTANTIAL 122 - VIII.--VEGETABLES, FRESH 137 - IX.--PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS 152 - X.--JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS 158 - XI.--CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESECAKES 165 - XII.--STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES 171 - XIII.--CAKES AND BREAD 177 - XIV.--PIES AND PUDDINGS 182 - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S -PRIZE MEDAL. - -Flavouring Essences and Domestic Specialities - -FOR PIES, PUDDINGS, SOUPS, GRAVIES, ICES, &c. - -_Prepared direct from Herbs, Fruits, and Spices, gathered in their bloom -and freshness._ - -Specially awarded Prize Medals, Great International Exhibition, -London, 1851 and 1862. - -(Recommended for all the Recipes in this work.) - -_"E.F. LANGDALE'S" should always be insisted upon. -They are Purest, Best, and Cheapest._ - - -Essence Lemon. -Strong Essence Vanilla. -Purified Essence Almonds -Essence Noyau. - " Raspberries. -Essence Ginger. - " Orange. - " Ratafia. - " Celery. - " Strawberries. - - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S - -Fruit Pudding, Blancmange, and. Custard Powders - -MAKE DELICIOUS PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, & BLANCMANGE. - -_In 2d. and 6d. Packets. Sold everywhere._ - - -ALMOND. -LEMON. -VANILLA. -RASPBERRY. -PINE APPLE. -RATAFIA. -STRAWBERRY. -NECTARINE. -CHOCOLATE, &c. - - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S -Prepared Dried English Herbs, &c. - - -Garden Mint. -Savoury. -Parsley. -Sage. -Lemon Thyme. -Basil. -Mixed Sweet Herbs. - " Soup " -Tarragon. - - -_Celery Seeds. Celery Salt. Herbaceous Mixture._ - -E.F. LANGDALE'S REFINED JAMAICA LIME JUICE AND PURE LEMON JUICE. - -Distilled Tarragon and Chill Vinegar for Salads and Sauces. - - * * * * * - -Sole Agent for - -J. Delcroix & Cie. Concentrated Parisian Essence, - -FOR BROWNING GRAVIES, &c. (_See pages 20, 22._) Which should always be -bought with their Name. As used by all _Chefs_. - -J. DELCROIX & CIE. Pure Green Vegetable Coloured Spinach Extract. _Perfectly -Harmless_. - -J. DELCROIX & CIE. Brilliant Extract Cochineal for Tinting Ices, Pies, &c. - - * * * * * - -E. F. LANGDALE'S "Essence Distillery," - -72 & 73, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C. Estab. 1770. - -Pamphlets, Recipes, &c., post free. All the above can be obtained of any -leading Grocer. We will send name of nearest Agent on receipt of post -card. - - * * * * * - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -We wish it to be distinctly understood at starting, that the present work -is purely a cookery-book, written on the principles generally adopted by -vegetarians; and as, until quite recently, there seemed to be in the minds -of many some doubt as to the definition of vegetarianism, we will quote the -following explanation from the head of the report of the London Vegetarian -Society:--"The aims of the London Vegetarian Society are to advocate the -total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, and -to promote a more extensive use of pulse, grains, fruits, nuts, and other -products of the vegetable kingdom, thus propagating a principle tending -essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to the -increase of happiness generally." - -We have no intention of writing a treatise on vegetarianism, but we -consider a few words of explanation necessary. Years back many persons -were under the impression that by vegetarianism was meant simply an -abstention from flesh-meat, but that fish was allowed. Such, however, is -not the case, according to the rules of most of the Vegetarian Societies of -the day. On the other hand, strictly speaking, real vegetarians would not -be allowed the use of eggs and milk; but it appears that many use these, -though there are a considerable number of persons who abstain. There is no -doubt that the vegetable kingdom, without either milk or eggs, contains -every requisite for the support of the human body. In speaking on this -subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes:--"The vegetable kingdom comprehends -the cereals, legumes, roots, starches, sugar, herbs, and fruits. Persons -who style themselves vegetarians often consume milk, eggs, butter, and -lard, which are choice foods from the animal kingdom. There are other -persons, of course, who are strictly vegetarian eaters, and such alone have -any right to the title of vegetarians." - -In the following pages will be found ample recipes for the benefit of -parties who take either view. In questions of this kind there will always -be found conflicting views. We have no wish or desire to give opinions, -but consider it will be more advisable, and probably render the book far -more useful, if we confine ourselves as much as possible to facts. - -The origin of vegetarianism is as old as the history of the world itself, -and probably from time immemorial there have been sects which have -practised vegetarianism, either as a religious duty, or under the belief -that they would render the body more capable of performing religious -duties. In the year 1098, or two years prior to the date of Henry I., -there was a strictly vegetarian society formed in connection with the -Christian Church, which lived entirely on herbs and roots, and the society -has lasted to the present day. Again, there have been many sects who, not -so strict, have allowed themselves the use of fish. - -Again, there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of diet on the ground -of health. Many maintain that diseases like gout and dyspepsia would -disappear were vegetarian diet strictly adhered to. On the other hand, we -have physicians who maintain that the great cause of indigestion is not -eating enough. An American physician, some years ago, alleged he had -discovered the cause, his argument being that the more work the stomach had -to do the stronger it would become, on the same principle that the arm of a -blacksmith is more powerful in consequence of hard work. Of one thing we -are certain, and that is, there will always be rival physicians and rival -sects; but the present work will simply be a guide to _those who require, -from whatever cause, a light form of diet_. Perhaps the greatest benefit -vegetarians can do their cause--and there are many who think very strongly -on the subject--is to endeavour to take a dispassionate view. Rome was not -built in a day; and if we look back at the past history of this country, -during the last half-century, in regard to food, we shall see that there -have been many natural changes at work. Waves of thought take place -backwards and forwards, but still the tide may flow. Some fifty years ago -there was, undoubtedly, a strong impression (with a large number of -right-minded people) that plenty of meat, beer, and wine were good for all, -even for young children. The medical profession are very apt to run in -flocks, and follow some well-known leader. At the period to which we -refer, numbers of anxious mothers would have regarded the advice to bring -up their children as vegetarians and teetotallers as positive cruelty. -This old-fashioned idea has passed away. - -One great motive for adopting a course of vegetarian diet is economy; and -here we feel that we stand on firm ground, without danger of offending -sincere opinions, which are often wrongly called prejudices. To a great -extent, the majority of the human race are virtually vegetarians from -necessity. Nor do we find feebleness either of mind or body necessarily -ensues. We believe there are tens of thousands of families who would give -vegetarianism a trial were it not for fear. Persons are too apt to think -that bodily strength depends upon the nature of the food we eat. In India -we have a feeble race, living chiefly on rice. On the other hand, in -China, for bodily strength, few can compare with the Coolies. For many -years in Scotland the majority lived on oatmeal, while in Ireland they -lived on potatoes. We do not wish to argue anything from these points, but -to bring them forward for consideration. Probably, strength of body and -mind, as a general rule, depends upon breed, and this argument tells two -ways--it does not follow that vegetarians will be necessarily strong, and -will cease to be cruel; nor does it follow that those who have been -accustomed all their lives to eat meat will cease to be strong should they -become vegetarians. As we have said, the great motive that induces many to -give vegetarianism a trial is economy; and if persons would once get rid of -the idea that they risk their health by making a trial, much would be done -to advance the cause. - -Another great reason for persons hesitating to make a trial is the -revolution it would create in their households. Here again we are beset by -difficulties, and these difficulties can only disappear gradually, after -long years of patience. We believe the progress towards vegetarianism must -of necessity be a very slow one. No large West End tradesman could -possibly insist upon his whole establishment becoming vegetarians because -he becomes one himself. We believe and hope that the present work will -benefit those who are undergoing a slow but gradual change in their mode of -living. This is easiest in small households, where no servants are kept at -all, where the mistress is both cook and mother. It is in such households -that the change is possible, and very often most desirable. In many cases -trial will be made gradually. The great difficulty to contend with is -prejudice, or, rather, we may say, habit. There are many housekeepers who -feel that their bill of fare would instantly become extremely limited were -they to adopt vegetarian ideas. There are few better dinners--especially -for children--than a good basin of soup, with plenty of bread; yet, as a -rule, there are few housekeepers who would know how to make vegetarian soup -at all. In our present work we have given a list of sixty-four soups. At -any rate, here is no lack of variety, as small housekeepers in this country -are not famed for their knowledge of soup making, even with gravy-beef at -their disposal. - -On looking down this list it will be observed that in many cases cream--or, -at any rate, milk--is recommended. We can well imagine the housekeeper -exclaiming, "I don't call this economy." This is one point about which we -consider a few words of explanation necessary. We will suppose a family of -eight, who have been accustomed to live in the ordinary way, are going to -have a vegetarian dinner by way of trial. Some soup has to be made, and -one or two vegetables from the garden or the greengrocer's, as the case may -be, are going to be cooked on a new method, and the housekeeper is -horrified at the amount of butter she finds recommended for the sauce. -People must, however, bear in mind that changes are gradual, and that -often, at first starting, a degree of richness, or what they would consider -extravagance, is advisable if they wish to _reconcile others_ to the -change. In our dinner for eight we would first ask them how much meat -would they have allowed a head? At the very lowest computation, it could -not have been decently done under a quarter of a pound each, even if the -dish of meat took the economical form of an Irish stew; and had a joint, -such as a leg of mutton, been placed upon the table, it would probably have -been considerably more than double. Supposing, however, instead of the -meat, we have three vegetables--say haricot beans, potatoes, and a cabbage. -With the assistance of some really good butter sauce, these vegetables, -eaten with bread, make an agreeable meal, which, especially in hot weather, -would probably be a pleasant change. Supposing, for the sake of argument, -you use half a pound of butter in making the butter sauce. This sounds, to -ordinary cooks, very extravagant, even supposing butter to be only one -shilling per pound. Suppose, however, this half a pound of butter is used -as a means of going without a leg of mutton? That is the chief point to be -borne in mind in a variety of recipes to follow. The cream, butter, and -eggs are often recommended in what will appear as wholesale quantities, -but, as a set-off against this, you have no butcher's bill at all. We do -not maintain that this apparently unlimited use of butter, eggs, and -occasionally cream, is necessary; but we believe that there are many -families who will be only able to make the change by substituting "_nice_" -dishes, at any rate at first starting, to make up for the loss of the meat. -It is only by substituting a pleasant kind of food, that many will be -induced even to attempt to change. Gradually the living will become -cheaper and cheaper; but it is unwise to attempt, in a family, to do too -much at once. - -There are many soups we have given in which cream is recommended; for -instance, artichoke soup, bean soup, cauliflower soup, and celery soup. -After partaking of a well-made basin of one of these soups, followed by one -or two vegetables and a fruit pie or stewed fruit, there are many persons -who would voluntarily remark, "I don't seem to care for any meat." On the -other hand, were the vegetables served in the old-fashioned style, but -without any meat, there are many who would feel that they were undergoing a -species of privation, even if they did not say so--we refer to a dish of -plain-boiled potatoes and dry bread, or even the ordinary cabbage served in -the usual way. Supposing, however, a nice little new cabbage is sent to -table, with plenty of really good white sauce or butter sauce, over which -has been sprinkled a little bright green parsley, whilst some crisp fried -bread surrounds the dish--the cabbage is converted into a meal; and if we -take into account the absence of the meat, we still save enormously. The -advice we would give, especially to young housekeepers, is, "Persuasion is -better than force." If you wish to teach a child to swim, it is far easier -to entice him into shallow water on a hot summer's day than to throw him in -against his will in winter time. - -Another point which we consider of great importance is appearances. As far -as possible, we should endeavour to make the dishes look pretty. We are -appealing to a very large class throughout the country who at all cost wish -to keep up appearances. It is an important class, and one on which the -slow but gradual march of civilisation depends. We fear that any attempt -to improve the extreme poor, who live surrounded by dirt and misery, would -be hopeless, unless they still have some lingering feeling of this -self-respect. For the poor woman who snatches a meal off -bread-and-dripping, which she eats without a table-cloth, and then repairs -to the gin-shop to wash it down, nothing can be done. This class will -gradually die out as civilisation advances. This is seen, even in the -present day, in America. - -Fortunately, there is plenty of scope in vegetarian cooking not merely for -refinement, but even elegance. Do not despise the sprinkle of chopped -parsley and red specks of bread-crumbs coloured with cochineal, so often -referred to throughout the following pages. Remember that the cost of -these little accessories to comfort is virtually _nil_. We must remember -also that one sense works upon another. We can please the palate through -the eye. There is some undoubted connection between these senses. If you -doubt it, suck a lemon in front of a German band and watch the result. The -sight of meat causes the saliva to run from the mouths of the carnivorous -animals at the Zoo. This is often noticeable in the case of a dog watching -people eat, and it is an old saying, "It makes one's mouth water to look at -it." In the case of endeavouring to induce a change of living in grown-up -persons, such as husband or children, there is perhaps no method we can -pursue so efficacious as that of making dishes look pretty. A dish of -bright red tomatoes, reposing on the white bosom of a bed of macaroni, -relieved here and there by a few specks of green--what a difference to a -similar dish all mashed up together, and in which the macaroni showed signs -of dirty smears! - -We have endeavoured throughout this book to give chiefly directions about -those dishes which will replace meat. For instance, the vast majority of -pies and puddings will remain the same, and need no detailed treatment -here. Butter supplies the place of suet or lard, and any ordinary, -cookery-book will be found sufficient for the purpose; but it is in dealing -with soups, sauces, rice, macaroni, and vegetables, sent to table under new -conditions, that we hope this book will be found most useful. - -As a rule, English women cooks, especially when their title to the name -depends upon their being the mistress of the house, will often find that -soups and sauces are a weak point. Do not despise, in cooking, little -things. Those who really understand such matters will know how vast is the -difference in flavour occasioned by the addition of that pinch of thyme or -teaspoonful of savoury herbs, and yet there are tens of thousands of -houses, where meat is eaten every day, who never had a bottle of thyme at -their disposal in their lives. As we have said, if we are going to make a -great saving on meat, we can well afford a few trifles, so long as they are -trifles. A sixpenny bottle of thyme will last for months; and if we give -up our gravy beef, or piece of pickled pork, or two-pennyworth of bones, as -the case may be, surely we can afford a little indulgence of this kind. - -A few words on the subject of fritters. When will English housekeepers -grasp the idea of frying? They cannot get beyond a dab of grease or butter -in a frying-pan. The bath of boiling oil seems to be beyond them, or at -any rate a degree of civilisation that has not yet passed beyond the limit -of the fried-fish shop. The oil will do over and over again, and in the -end is undoubtedly cheaper than the dab of grease or butter thrown away. -There are hundreds of men who, in hot weather, would positively prefer a -well-cooked vegetable fritter to meat, but yet they rarely get it at home. -Fruit fritters are also very economical--orange fritters, apple fritters, -&c., because the batter helps to make the dish _a meal_. - -Those who have practised vegetarianism for many years will probably be of -opinion that we have not called sufficient attention to the subject of -fruit and nuts. This is not because we do not believe in their usefulness, -but because we think that those who are _changing_ their mode of living -will be far better enabled to do so without discomfort by making their -chief alterations in diet in the directions we have pointed out. There is -moreover little or no _cookery_ involved in these articles. - -Of the wholesomeness of fresh fruit all are agreed; and as people become -more advanced vegetarians, the desire for fruit and nuts will follow in due -course. In future years, as the demand increases, the supply will -increase; but this is a question of time. Lookers-on often see more of the -game than the players. It is not because the sudden change might not be -beneficial, but because sudden changes are only likely to be effected in -rare instances, that we have taken the view we have. Prejudice is strong, -and it would be very difficult to persuade persons, unless they had been -gradually brought to the change, to regard nuts in the light of food. To -suggest a meal off Brazil nuts would to many have a tendency to put -vegetarianism in a ridiculous light, and nothing kills so readily as -ridicule. - -In conclusion, it will be observed that from time to time we have used the -expression, "if wine be allowed." There is no necessary connection between -vegetarianism and teetotalism, but it would be affectation to deny the fact -that they are generally connected. Of the numerous arguments brought -forward by the advocates of vegetarianism, one is that, in the opinion of -many who speak with authority, a vegetarian diet is best adapted to -those--of whom, unfortunately, there are many--who, from time to time, have -a craving for more stimulant than is beneficial to their health. Many -medical men are of the opinion that large meat-eaters require alcoholic -stimulant, and that they can give up the latter more easily by abstaining -from the former. This is a question for medical men to decide, as it does -not properly come into the province of the cook. - -We have repeatedly mentioned the addition of wine and liqueurs; but when -these are used for flavouring purposes it is not to be regarded in the same -light as if taken alone. There is a common sense in these matters which -should never be overlooked. The teetotaler who attended the Lord Mayor's -dinner, and refused his glass of punch with his turtle-soup, would be -consistent; but to refuse the turtle-soup itself on the ground that a -little wine, probably Madeira, might have been added, would proclaim him to -be a faddist. It is to be regretted that in the present day so many good -causes have been injured by this ostentation of carrying ideas to an -extreme. Practically, where wine is used in cookery, it is added solely -for the peculiar flavour, and _the alcohol itself is evaporated_. To be -consistent, the vast majority of teetotal drinks, and possibly even stewed -fruit itself, would have to be refused on the same ground, viz., an almost -infinitely small trace of alcohol. We think it best to explain the reason -we have introduced the expression, "if wine be allowed." In each case it -is used for flavouring, and flavouring purposes only. We know that with -some persons a very small amount of stimulant creates a desire for more, -and when this is the case the small quantity should be avoided; but in the -case of the quantity being so infinitely small that it ceases to have this -effect, even if not boiled away as it really is, no harm can possibly -arise. Where wine is added to soups and sauces and exposed to heat, this -would be the case. On the other hand, in the case of tipsy-cake, and wine -added to _compote_ of fruit, this would probably not be the case. A great -distinction should be drawn between such cases. It will be found, however, -that in every case we have mentioned the addition is altogether optional, -or a substitute like lemon-juice can be used in its place. - - - - -VEGETARIAN COOKERY - -CHAPTER 1. - -SOUPS. - -GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. - - -There are very few persons, unless they have made vegetarian cookery a -study, who are aware what a great variety of soups can be made without the -use of meat or fish. As a rule, ordinary cookery-books have the one -exception of what is called _soup maigre_. In England it seems to be the -impression that the goodness of the soup depends upon the amount of -nourishment that can be compressed into a small space. It is, however, a -great mistake to think that because we take a large amount of nourishment -we are necessarily nourished. There is a limit, though what that limit is -no one can say, beyond which soup becomes absolutely injurious. A quarter -of a pound of Liebig's Extract of Meat dissolved in half a pint of water is -obviously an over-dose of what is considered nourishment. In France, as a -rule, soup is prepared on an altogether different idea. It is a light, -thin broth, taken at the commencement of the meal to strengthen the -stomach, in order to render it capable of receiving more substantial food -to follow. Vegetarian soups are, of course, to be considered from this -latter point of view. - -We think these few preliminary observations necessary as we have to -overcome a very strong English prejudice, which is too apt to despise -everything of which the remark can be made--"Ah! but there is very little -nourishment in it." Vegetarian soups, as a rule, and especially the thin -ones, must be regarded as a light and pleasant flavouring which, with a -small piece of white bread enables the most obstinately delicate stomach to -commence a repast that experience has found best adapted to its -requirements. - -The basis of all soup is stock, and in making stock we, of course, have to -depend upon vegetables, fruit, or some kind of farinaceous food. To a -certain extent the water in which any kind of vegetable has been boiled may -be regarded as stock, especially water that has boiled roots, such as -potatoes; or grains, such as rice. It will not, however, be necessary to -enter into any general description as to the best method of obtaining -nutriment in a liquid form from vegetables and grain, as directions will be -given in each recipe, but a few words are necessary on the general subject -of flavouring stock. In making ordinary soup we are very much dependent -for flavour, if the soup be good, on the meat, the vegetables acting only -as accessories. In making stock for vegetarian soups we are chiefly -dependent for flavour on the vegetables themselves, and consequently great -care must be taken that these flavourings are properly _blended_. The -great difficulty in giving directions in cookery-books, and in -understanding them when given, is the insuperable one of avoiding vague -expressions. For instance, suppose we read, "Take two onions, one carrot, -one turnip, and one head of celery,"--what does this mean? It will be -found practically that these directions vary considerably according to the -neighbourhood or part of the country in which we live. For instance, so -much depends upon where we take our head of celery from. Suppose we bought -our head of celery in Bond Street or the Central Arcade in Covent Garden -Market on the one hand, or off a barrow in the Mile End Road on the other. -Again, onions vary so much in size that we cannot draw any hard-and-fast -line between a little pickling onion no bigger than a marble and a Spanish -onion as big as a baby's head. It would be possible to be very precise and -say, "Take so many ounces of celery, or so many pounds of carrot, but -practically we cannot turn the kitchen into a chemist's shop. Cooks, -whether told to use celery in heads or ounces, would act on guess-work just -the same. What are absolutely essential are two things--common sense and -experience. - -Again, practically, we must avoid giving too many ingredients. Novices in -the art of cooking are, of course, unable to distinguish between those -vegetables that are absolutely essential and those added to give a slight -extra flavour, but which make very little difference to the soup whether -they are added or not. We are often directed to add a few leaves of -tarragon, or chervil, or a handful of sorrel. Of course, in a large -kitchen, presided over by a Francatelli, these are easily obtainable; but -in ordinary private houses, and in most parts of the country, they are not -only unobtainable but have never even been heard of at the greengrocer's -shop. - -In making soups, as a rule, the four vegetables essential are, onion, -celery, carrot and turnip; and we place them in their order of merit. In -making vegetarian soup it is very important that we should learn how to -blend these without making any one flavour too predominant. This can only -be learnt by experience. If we have too much onion the soup tastes rank; -too much celery will make it bitter; too much carrot often renders the soup -sweet; and the turnip overpowers every other flavour. Again, these -vegetables vary so much in strength that were we to peel and weigh them the -result would not be uniform, in addition to the fact that not one cook in a -thousand would take the trouble to do it. Perhaps the most dangerous -vegetable with which we have to deal is turnip. These vary so very much in -strength that sometimes even one slice of turnip will be found too strong. -In flavouring soups with these vegetables, the first care should be to see -that they are thoroughly cleansed. In using celery, too much of the green -part should be avoided if you wish to make first-rate soup. In using the -onions, if they are old and strong, the core can be removed. In using -carrot, if you are going to have any soup where vegetables will be cut up -and served in the soup, you should always peel off the outside red part of -the carrot and reserve it for this purpose, and only use the inside or -yellow part for flavouring purposes if is going to be thrown away or to -lose its identity by being rubbed through a wire sieve with other -vegetables. With regard to turnip, we can only add one word of -caution--not too much. We may here mention, before leaving the subject of -ingredients, that leeks and garlic are a substitute for onion, and can also -be used in conjunction with it. - -As a rule, in vegetarian cookery clear soups are rare, and, of course, from -an economical point of view, they are not to be compared with thick soups. -Some persons, in making stock, recommend what is termed bran tea. Half a -pint of bran is boiled in about three pints of water, and a certain amount -of nutriment can be extracted from the bran, which also imparts colour. - -For the purpose of colouring clear soups, however, there is nothing in the -world to compare with what French cooks call _caramel_. Caramel is really -burnt sugar. There is a considerable art in preparing it, as it is -necessary that it should impart colour, and colour _only_. When prepared -in the rough-and-ready manner of burning sugar in a spoon, as is too often -practised in English kitchens, this desideratum is never attained, as you -are bound to impart sweetness in addition to a burnt flavour. The simplest -and by far the most economical method of using caramel is to buy it -ready-made. It is sold by all grocers under the name of Parisian Essence. -A small bottle, costing about eightpence, will last a year, and saves an -infinite loss of time, trouble, and temper. - -By far the most economical soups are the thick, where all the ingredients -can be rubbed through a wire sieve. Thick soups can be divided into two -classes--ordinary brown soup, and white soup. The ordinary brown is the -most economical, as in white soups milk is essential, and if the soup is -wished to be very good it is necessary to add a little cream. - -Soups owe their thickness to two processes. We can thicken the soup by -adding flour of various kinds, such as ordinary flour, corn-flour, &c., and -soup can also be thickened by having some of the ingredients of which it is -composed rubbed through a sieve. This class of soups may be called Purees. -For instance, Palestine soup is really a puree of Jerusalem artichokes; -ordinary pea soup is a puree of split peas. In making our ordinary -vegetarian soups of all kinds, as a rule, all the ingredients should be -rubbed through a sieve. The economy of this is obvious on the face of it. -In the case of thickening soup by means of some kinds of flour, for -richness and flavour there is nothing to equal ordinary flour that has been -cooked. This is what Frenchmen call roux. - -As white and brown roux are the very backbone of vegetarian cookery a few -words of explanation may not be out of place. On referring to the recipe -for making white and brown roux, it will be seen that it is simply flour -cooked by means of frying it in butter, In white roux each grain of flour -is cooked till it is done. In brown roux each grain of flour is cooked -till it is done brown. We cannot exaggerate the importance of getting -cooks to see the enormous difference between thickening soups or gravy with -white or brown roux and simply thickening them with plain butter and flour. -The taste of the soup in the two cases is altogether different. The -difference is this. Suppose you have just been making some pastry--some -good, rich, puff paste--you have got two pies, and, as you probably know, -this pastry is simply butter and flour. Place one pie in the oven and bake -it till it is a nice rich brown. Now taste the pie-crust. It is probably -delicious. Now taste the piece of the pie that has not been baked at all. -It is nauseous. The difference is--one is butter and flour that has been -cooked, the other is butter and flour that has not been cooked. - - * * * * * - -One word of warning in conclusion. Cooks should always remember the good -old saying--that it is quite possible to have too much of a good thing. -They should be particularly warned to bear this in mind in adding herbs, -such as ordinary mixed flavouring herbs, or, as they are sometimes called, -savoury herbs, and thyme. This is also very important if wine is added to -soup, though, as a rule, vegetarians rarely use wine in cooking; but the -same principle applies to the substitute for wine--viz., lemon juice. It -is equally important to bear this in mind in using white and brown roux. -If we make the soup too thick we spoil it, and it is necessary to add water -to bring it to its proper consistency, which, of course, diminishes the -flavour. The proper consistency of any soup thickened with roux should be -that of ordinary cream. Beyond this point the cooked flour will overpower -almost every other flavour, and the great beauty of vegetarian cookery is -its simplicity, it appeals to a taste that is refined and natural, and not -to one that has been depraved. - - * * * * * - -STOCK.--Strictly speaking, in vegetarian cookery, stock is the goodness and -flavouring that can be extracted from vegetables, the chief ones being -onion, celery, carrot, and turnip. In order to make stock, take these -vegetables, cut them up into small pieces, after having thoroughly cleansed -them, place them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them, and let -them boil gently for several hours. The liquor, when strained off, may be -called stock. It can be flavoured with a small quantity of savoury herbs, -pepper, and salt, as well as a little mushroom ketchup. It can be coloured -with a few drops of Parisian essence, or burnt sugar. Its consistency can -be improved by the addition of a small quantity of corn-flour. Sufficient -corn-flour must be added not to make it thick but like very thin gum. In a -broader sense, the water in which rice, lentils, beans and potatoes have -been boiled may be called stock. Again, the water in which macaroni, -vermicelli, sparghetti, and all kinds of Italian paste has been boiled, may -be called stock. The use of liquors of this kind must be left to the -common sense of the cook, as, of course, it would only be obtainable when -these materials are required for use. - - -BROWN AND WHITE THICKENING, OR ROUX.--It is of great importance for -vegetarians always to have on hand a fairly good stock of white and brown -roux, as it is a great saving both of time and money. As roux will keep -good for weeks, and even months, there is no fear of waste in making a -quantity at a time. Take a pound of flour, with a spoonful or two over; -see that it is thoroughly dry, and then sift it. Next take a pound of -butter and squeeze it in a cloth so as as much as possible to extract all -the moisture from it. Next take a stew-pan--an enamelled one is best--and -melt the butter till it runs to oil. It will now be found that, although -the bulk of the butter looks like oil, a certain amount of froth will rise -to the top. This must be carefully skimmed off. Continue to expose the -butter to a gentle heat till the scum ceases to rise. Now pour off the -oiled butter very gently into a basin till you come to some dregs. These -should be thrown away, or, at any rate, not used in making the roux. Now -mix the pound of dried and sifted flour with the oiled butter, which is -what the French cooks call clarified butter. Place it back in the -stew-pan, put the stew-pan over a tolerably good fire, but not too fierce, -as there is a danger of its burning. With a wooden spoon keep stirring -this mixture, and keep scraping the bottom of the stew-pan, first in one -place and then in another, being specially careful of the edges, to prevent -its burning. Gradually the mixture will begin to turn colour. As soon as -this turn of colour is perceptible take out half and put it in a basin. -This is the white roux, viz., flour cooked in butter but not discoloured -beyond a very trifling amount. Keep the stew-pan on the fire, and go on -stirring the remainder, which will get gradually darker and darker in -colour. As soon as the colour is that of light chocolate remove the -stew-pan from the fire altogether, but still continue scraping and stirring -for a few minutes longer, as the enamel retains the heat to such an extent -that it will sometimes burn after it has been removed from the fire. It is -important not to have the mixture too dark, and it will be found by -experience that it gets darker after the stew-pan has been removed from the -fire. When we say light chocolate we refer to the colour of a cake of -chocolate that has been broken. The inside is the colour, not the outside. -It is advisable sometimes to have by you ready a large slice of onion, and -if you think it is dark enough you can throw this in and immediately by -this means slacken the heat. Pour the brown roux into a separate basin, -and put them by for use. - -In the houses of most vegetarians more white roux will be used than brown, -consequently more than half should be removed if this is the case when the -roux first commences to turn colour. When the brown roux gets cold it has -all the appearance of chocolate, and when you use it it is best to scrape -off the quantity you require with a spoon, and not add it to soups or -sauces in one lump. - - -ALMOND SOUP.--Take half a pound of sweet almonds and blanch them, _i.e._, -throw them into boiling water till the outside skin can be rubbed off -easily with the finger. Then immediately throw the white almonds into cold -water, otherwise they will quickly lose their white colour like potatoes -that have been peeled. Next, slice up an onion and half a small head of -celery, and let these simmer gently in a quart of milk. In the meantime -pound the almonds with four hard-boiled yolks of egg, strain off the milk -and add the pounded almonds and egg to the milk gradually, and let it boil -over the fire. Add sufficient white roux till the soup becomes of the -consistency of cream. Serve some fried or toasted bread with the soup. It -is a great improvement to add half a pint of cream, but this makes the soup -much more expensive. The soup can be flavoured with a little white pepper. - -N.B.--The onion and celery that was strained off can be used again for -flavouring purposes. - - -APPLE SOUP.--This is a German recipe. Take half a dozen good-sized apples, -peel them and remove the core, and boil them in a quart of water with two -tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; add the juice of a lemon, and flavour it -with rather less than a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon; sweeten -the soup with lump sugar, previously having rubbed six lumps on the outside -of the lemon. - - -ARTICHOKE SOUP.--Take a dozen large Jerusalem artichokes about as big as -the fist, or more to make up a similar quantity. Peel them, and, like -potatoes, throw them into cold water in order to prevent them turning -colour. Boil them in as little water as possible, as they contain a good -deal of water themselves, till they are tender and become a pulp, taking -care that they do not burn, and therefore it is best to rub the saucepan at -the bottom with a piece of butter. Now rub them through a wire sieve and -add them to a pint of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves have been -boiled. Add also two lumps of sugar and a little white pepper and salt. -Serve the soup with fried or toasted bread. This soup can be made much -richer by the addition of either a quarter of a pint of cream or a couple -of yolks of eggs. If yolks of eggs are added, beat up the yolks separately -and add the soup gradually, very hot, but not quite boiling, otherwise the -yolks will curdle. - - -ASPARAGUS SOUP.--Take a good-sized bundle (about fifty large heads) of -asparagus, and after a thorough cleansing throw them into a saucepan of -boiling water that has been salted. When the tops become tender, drain off -the asparagus and throw it into cold water, as by this means we retain the -bright green colour; when cold cut off all the best part of the green into -little pieces, about half an inch long, then put the remainder of the -asparagus--the stalk part--into a saucepan, with a few green onions and a -few sprigs of parsley, with about a quart of stock or water; add a -teaspoonful of pounded sugar and a very little grated nutmeg. Let this -boil till the stalks become quite tender, then rub the whole through a wire -sieve and thicken the soup with a little white roux, and colour it a bright -green with some spinach extract. Now add the little pieces cut up, and let -the whole simmer gently, and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - -N.B.--SPINACH EXTRACT.--It is very important in making all green vegetable -soups that they should be of a green colour, such as the one above -mentioned--green-pea soup, &c., and that we get a _good_ colour, and this -is only to be obtained by means of spinach extract. Spinach extract can be -made at home, but it will be found to be far more economical to have a -small bottle of green vegetable colouring always in the house. These -bottles can be obtained from all grocers at the cost of about tenpence or -one shilling each. Such a very small quantity goes such a long way that -one bottle would probably last a family of six persons twelve months. As -we have said, it can be made at home, but the process, though not -difficult, is troublesome. It is made as follows:--A quantity of spinach -has, after being thoroughly washed, to be pounded in a mortar until it -becomes a pulp. This pulp is then placed in a very strong, coarse cloth, -and the cloth is twisted till the juice of the spinach is squeezed out -through the cloth. The amount of force required is very considerable and -is almost beyond the power of ordinary women cooks. This juice must now be -placed in a small enamelled saucepan, and must be heated till it becomes -thick and pulpy, when it can be put by for use. It will probably be found -cheaper to buy spinach extract than to make it, as manual labour cannot -compete with machinery. - - -BARLEY SOUP.--Take two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley and wash it in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Put this in a -saucepan with about two quarts of water, two onions sliced up, a few -potatoes sliced very thin, and about a saltspoonful of thyme. Let the -whole boil gently for four or five hours, till the barley is quite soft and -eatable. Thicken the soup very slightly with a little white roux, season -it with pepper and salt. Before serving the soup, add a tablespoonful of -chopped blanched parsley. - -N.B.--When chopped parsley is added to any soup or sauce, such as parsley -and butter, it is very important that the parsley be blanched. To blanch -parsley means to throw it for a few seconds into boiling water. By this -means a dull green becomes a bright green. The best method to blanch -parsley is to place it in a strainer and dip the strainer for a few seconds -in a saucepan of boiling water. By comparing the colour of the parsley -that has been so treated with some that has not been blanched, cooks will -at once see the importance of the operation so far as appearances are -concerned. - - -BEETROOT SOUP.--This soup is better adapted to the German palate than the -English, as it contains both vinegar and sugar, which are very -characteristic of German cookery. Take two large beetroots and two -good-sized onions, and after peeling the beetroots boil them and mince them -finely, adding them, of course, to the water in which they were boiled, or -still better, they can be boiled in some sort of stock. Add a very small -quantity of corn-flour, to give a slight consistency to the soup, as well -as a little pinch of thyme. Next add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar--more -or less according to taste--a spoonful of brown sugar, and a little pepper -and salt. - - -BEAN SOUP, OR PUREE OF RED HARICOT BEANS.--Put a quart of red haricot beans -into soak overnight, and put a little piece of soda in the water to soften -it. The next morning put the beans on to boil in three quarts of water, -with some carrot, celery and onion, or the beans can be boiled in some -stock made from these vegetables. After the beans are tender, pound them -in a mortar, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve, after first -removing the carrot, celery and onion. Add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar -and about two ounces of butter. Fried or toasted bread should be served -with the soup. If the soup is liked thin, of course more water can be -added. - - -BEAN SOUP, OR PUREE OF WHITE HARICOT BEANS.--Proceed exactly as in the -above recipe, only substituting white haricot beans for red. It is a great -improvement to add a little boiling cream, but of course this makes the -soup much more expensive. Some cooks add a spoonful of blanched, chopped -parsley to this puree, and Frenchmen generally flavour this soup with -garlic. - - -BEAN SOUP, GREEN.--Boil a quart of ordinary broad-beans in some stock or -water with an onion, carrot and celery. Remove the skins when the beans -are tender and rub the beans through a wire sieve. Colour the soup with a -little spinach extract--(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles)--add a -little piece of butter, a little powdered sugar, pepper and salt. The -amount of stock or water must depend upon whether it is wished to have the -puree thick or thin. Some purees are made as thick as bread sauce, while -some persons prefer them much thinner. This is purely a matter of taste. - - -BEAN SOUP FROM FRENCH BEANS.--This is an admirable method of using up -French beans or scarlet runners when they get too old to be boiled as a -vegetable in the ordinary way. Take any quantity of French beans and boil -them in some stock or water with an onion, carrot, or celery for about an -hour, taking care, at starting, to throw them into boiling water in order -to preserve their colour. It is also a saving of trouble to chop the beans -slightly at starting, _i.e._, take a bunch of beans in the left hand and -cut them into pieces, say an eighth of an inch in thickness. Boil them -till they are tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Add a -little butter, pepper and salt, and colour the soup with spinach -extract--(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles). Serve toasted or fried -bread with the puree, which should be rather thick. - - -CABBAGE SOUP.--Take a white cabbage and slice it up, and throw it into some -stock or water, with some leeks and slices of turnip. Boil the whole till -the vegetables are tender, flavour with pepper and salt. This is sometimes -called Cornish broth, though in Cornwall a piece of meat or bones are -generally boiled with the vegetables. As no meat, of course, is used, too -much water must not be added, but only sufficient liquor must be served to -make the vegetables thoroughly moist. Perhaps the consistency can best be -described by saying that there should be equal quantities of vegetables and -fluid. - - -CARROT SOUP.--If you wish this soup to be of a good colour, you must only -use the outside, or red part, of the carrot, in which case a dozen large -carrots will be required. If economy is practised, half this quantity will -be sufficient. Take, say, half a dozen carrots, a small head of celery, -and one onion, and throw them into boiling water for a few minutes in order -to preserve the colour. Then drain them off and place them in a saucepan, -with a couple of ounces of butter to prevent them sticking and burning, and -place the saucepan on a very slack fire and let them stew so that the steam -can escape, but take care they don't burn or get brown. Now add a quart or -two quarts of stock or water and boil them till they are tender. Then rub -the whole through a wire sieve, add a little butter, pounded sugar, pepper, -and salt. The amount of liquid added must entirely depend upon the size of -the carrots. It is better to add too little than too much, but the -consistency of the soup should be like ordinary pea soup; it does not do to -have the soup watery. If only the outside parts of carrots are used, and -this red part is thrown, at starting, into boiling water to preserve its -colour, this soup, when made thick, has a very bright and handsome -appearance, and is suitable for occasions when a little extra hospitality -is exercised. The inside part of the carrot, if not used for making the -soup, need not be wasted, but can be used for making stock, or served in a -dish of mixed vegetables on some other occasion. - - -CAULIFLOWER SOUP.--Take three or four small cauliflowers, or two large -ones, soak them in salt and water, and boil them in some water till they -are nearly tender. Take them out and break the cauliflower so that you get -two or three dozen little pieces out of the heart of the cauliflower, -somewhat resembling miniature bouquets. Put the rest of the cauliflower -back into the water in which it was boiled, with the exception of the green -part of the leaves, with an onion and some of the white part of a head of -celery. Let all boil till the water has nearly boiled away. Now rub all -this through a wire sieve, onions, celery, cauliflower, and all; add to it -sufficient boiling milk to make the whole of the consistency of pea soup. -Add a little butter, pepper, and salt; throw in those little pieces of -cauliflower that had been reserved a minute or two before serving the soup. -It is an improvement to boil two or three bay-leaves with the milk, and -also a very great improvement indeed to add a little boiling cream. Fried -or toasted bread should be served with the soup. - - -CELERY SOUP.--Take half a dozen heads of celery, or a smaller quantity if -the heads of celery are very large; throw away all the green part and cut -up the celery into small pieces, with one onion sliced, and place them in a -frying-pan, or, better still, in an enamelled stew-pan, and stew them in a -little butter, taking great care that the celery does not turn colour. Now -add sufficient water or stock, and let it all boil till the celery becomes -quite tender. Let it boil till it becomes a pulp, and then rub the whole -through a wire sieve. Next boil separately from one to two quarts of milk -according to the quantity of celery pulp, and boil a couple of bay-leaves -in the milk. As soon as the milk boils add it to the celery pulp, flavour -the soup with pepper and salt; serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. -It is needless to say that all these white soups are greatly improved both -in appearance and flavour by the addition of a little cream. - - -CHEESE SOUP.--Light-coloured and dry cheese is necessary for this somewhat -peculiar soup, but the best cheese of all is, undoubtedly, Gruyere. Grate -half a pound of cheese and spread a layer of this at the bottom of the -soup-tureen. Cover this layer of cheese with some very thin slices of -stale crumb of bread. Then put another layer of cheese and another layer -of bread till all the cheese is used up. Next take about two -tablespoonfuls of brown roux, melt this in a small saucepan, and add two -tablespoonfuls of chopped onion. Let the onion cook in the melted roux -over the fire, and then add a quart of water, and stir it all up till it -boils, adding pepper and salt and a few drops of Parisian essence (burnt -sugar) to give it a dark brown colour. Now pour the boiling soup over the -contents of the soup-tureen, and let it stand a few minutes so that the -bread has time to soak, and serve. - - -CHERRY SOUP.--Like most soups that are either sweet or sour, this is a -German recipe. Put a piece of butter, the size of a large egg, into a -saucepan. Let it melt, then mix it with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir -smoothly until it is lightly browned. Add gradually two pints of water, a -pound of black cherries, picked and washed, and a few cloves. Let these -boil until the fruit is quite tender, then press the whole through a sieve. -After straining, add a little port, if wine is allowed--but the soup will -be very nice without this addition--half a teaspoonful of the kernels, -blanched and bruised, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a few whole cherries. -Let the soup boil again until the cherries are tender, and pour all into a -tureen over toasted sippets, sponge-cakes, or macaroons. - - -CHESTNUT SOUP, OR PUREE OF CHESTNUTS.--Take four dozen chestnuts and peel -them. This will be a very long process if we attempt to take off the skins -while they are raw; but in order to save time and trouble, place the -chestnuts in a stew-pan with a couple of ounces of butter. Place them on a -slack fire and occasionally give them a stir. Heat them gradually till the -husks come off without any difficulty. Having removed all the husks, add -sufficient stock or water to the chestnuts, and let them boil gently till -they are tender. Then pound them in a mortar and rub them through a wire -sieve. Add a very little brown roux, if the soup is to be brown, and a few -drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar), or a little white roux and a -little cream if the soup is to be white. Add also a little pepper and -salt, sufficient butter to make the puree taste soft, and a little powdered -sugar. Fried and toasted bread should be served with the soup. - - -COTTAGE SOUP.--Fry two onions, a carrot and a turnip, and a small head of -celery cut up into small pieces, in a frying-pan, with a little butter, -till they are lightly browned. Then put them in a saucepan, with about two -quarts of water and a tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. Let this boil -till the vegetables are quite tender, and then thicken the soup with two -ounces of oatmeal or prepared barley. This must be mixed with cold water -and made quite smooth before it is added to the soup. Wash a quarter of a -pound of rice, and boil this in the soup, and when the rice is quite tender -the soup can be served. Some persons add a little sugar, and dried -powdered mint can be handed round with the soup, like pea soup. - - -CLEAR SOUP.--Make a very strong stock by cutting up onion, celery, carrot, -and a little turnip, and boiling them in some water. They should boil for -two or three hours. Add also a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs to every -quart, and colour the stock with a few drops of Parisian essence. Strain -it off, and, if it is not bright, clear it with some white of egg in the -ordinary way. Take only sufficient corn-flour to make the soup less thin -or watery, but do not make it thick. A tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup -can be added to every quart. - - -COCOANUT SOUP.--Break open a good-sized cocoanut and grate sufficient of -the white part till it weighs half a pound. Boil this in some stock, and -after it has boiled for about an hour strain it off. Only a small quantity -of stock must be used, and the cocoanut should be pressed and squeezed, so -as to extract all the goodness. Add a little pepper and salt, and about -half a grated nutmeg. Next boil separately three pints of milk, and add -this to the strained soup. Thicken the soup with some ground rice, and -serve. Of course, a little cream would be a great improvement. Serve with -toasted or fried bread. - - -ENDIVE SOUP, OR PUREE.--Take half a dozen endives that are white in the -centre, and wash them very thoroughly in salt and water, as they are apt to -contain insects. Next throw. them into boiling water, and let them boil -for a quarter of an hour. Then take them out and throw them into cold -water. Next take them out of the cold water and squeeze them in a cloth so -as to extract all the moisture. Then cut off the root of each endive, chop -up all the white leaves, and place them in a stew-pan with about two ounces -of butter. Add half a grated nutmeg, a brimming teaspoonful of powdered -white sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Stir them over the fire with a -wooden spoon, and take care they don't burn or turn colour. Next add -sufficient milk to moisten them, and let them simmer gently till they are -tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve, add a little piece of -butter, and serve with fried or toasted bread. - - -FRUIT SOUP.--Fruit soup can be made from rhubarb, vegetable marrow, -cucumber, gourd, or pumpkin. They may be all mixed with a little cream, -milk, or butter, and form a nice dish that is both healthful and delicate. - - -GREEN PEA SOUP.--(_See_ PEA.) - - -GREEN PEA SOUP, DRIED.--(_See_ PEA.) - - -HARE SOUP (IMITATION).--Take one large carrot, a small head of celery, one -good-sized onion, and half a small turnip, and boil these in a quart of -water till they are tender. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, and -thicken the soup with some brown roux till it is as thick as good cream. -Next add a brimming saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. These herbs -are sold in bottles by all grocers under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. -Flavour the soup with cayenne pepper, a glass of port wine (port wine dregs -will do), dissolve in it a small dessertspoonful of red-currant jelly, and -add the juice of half a lemon. - -N.B.--Aromatic flavouring herbs are exceedingly useful in cooking. It is -cheaper to buy them ready made, under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. They -can, however, be made at home as follows:--Take two ounces of white -peppercorns, two ounces of cloves, one ounce of marjoram, one ounce of -sweet basil and one ounce of lemon-thyme, one ounce of powdered nutmeg, one -ounce of powdered mace, and half an ounce of dried bay-leaves. The herbs -must be wrapped up in paper (one or two little paper bags, one inside the -other, is best), and dried very slowly in the oven till they are brittle. -They must then be pounded in a mortar, and mixed with the spices, and the -whole sifted through a fine hair-sieve and put by in a stoppered bottle for -use. - - -HOTCH-POTCH.--Cut up some celery, onion, carrot, turnip, and leeks into -small pieces and fry them for a few minutes in about two ounces of butter -in a frying-pan, very gently, taking care that they do not in the least -degree turn colour. Previous to this, wash and boil about a quarter of a -pound of pearl barley for four or five hours. When the barley is tender, -or nearly tender, add the contents of the frying-pan. Let it all boil till -the vegetables are tender, and about half an hour before the soup is sent -to table throw in, while the soup is boiling, half a pint of fresh green -peas--those known as marrowfats are best,--and about five minutes before -sending the soup to table throw in a spoonful (in the proportion of a -dessertspoonful to every quart) of chopped, blanched parsley--_i.e._, -parsley that has been thrown into boiling water before it is chopped. -Colour the soup green with a little spinach extract (vegetable colouring -sold in bottles by all grocers). The thinness of the soup can be removed -by the addition of a small quantity of white roux. - - -JARDINIERE SOUP.--Cut up into thin strips some carrot, turnip and celery, -add a dozen or more small button onions, similar to those used for -pickling, and also a few hearts of lettuces cut up fine, as well as a few -fresh tarragon leaves cut into strips as thin as small string. Simmer -these gently in some clear soup (_see_ CLEAR SOUP) till tender; add a lump -of sugar, and serve. - -N.B.--The tarragon should not be thrown in till the last minute. - - -JULIENNE SOUP.--This soup is exactly similar to the previous one, the only -exception being that all the vegetables are first stewed very gently, till -they are tender, in a little butter. Care should be taken that the -vegetables do not turn colour. - - -LEEK SOUP.--Take half a dozen or more fine large leeks, and after trimming -off the green part, throw them into boiling water for five minutes, then -drain them off and dry them. Cut them into pieces about half an inch long, -and stew them gently in a little butter till they are tender. Add three -pints of milk, and let two bay-leaves boil in the milk, flavour with pepper -and salt, and add a suspicion of grated nutmeg. Thicken the soup with a -little white roux and take the crust of a French roll. Cut this up into -small pieces or rings. The rings can be made by simply scooping out the -crumb, and cutting the roll across. When the leeks have boiled in the milk -till they are quite tender, pour the soup over the crusts placed at the -bottom of the soup-tureen. Some cooks add blanched parsley. Of course, -cream would be a great improvement. - - -LENTIL SOUP.--Take a breakfastcupful of green lentils and put them to soak -in cold water overnight. In the morning throw away any floating on the -top. Drain the lentils and put them in a stew-pan or saucepan with some -stock or water, and add two onions, two carrots, a turnip, a bunch of -parsley, a small teaspoonful of savoury herbs and a small head of celery. -If you have no celery add half a teaspoonful of bruised celery seed. You -can also add a crust of stale bread. Let the whole boil, and it will be -found that occasionally a dark film will rise to the surface. This must be -skimmed off. The soup must boil for about four hours, or at any rate till -the lentils are thoroughly soft. Then strain the soup through a wire -sieve, and rub the whole of the contents through the wire sieve with the -soup. This requires both time and patience. After the whole has been -rubbed through the sieve the soup must be boiled up, and if made from green -lentils it can be coloured green with some spinach extract--(vegetable -colouring, sold in bottles). If made from Egyptian (red) lentils, the soup -can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar). In -warming up this soup, after the lentils have been rubbed through a sieve, -it should be borne in mind that the lentil powder has a tendency to settle, -and consequently the saucepan must be constantly stirred to prevent it -burning. In serving the soup at table, the contents of the soup-tureen -should be stirred with the soup-ladle before each help. - - -LENTIL PUREE A LA SOUBISE.--This is really lentil soup, made as above, -rather thick, to which has been added a puree of onions, made as -follows:--Slice up, say four large onions, and fry them brown in a little -butter, then boil them in some of the broth of the soup till they are -tender. Rub them through a wire sieve and add them to the soup. - - -MACARONI SOUP (CLEAR).--Take some macaroni and break it up into pieces -about two inches long. Boil them till they are tender in some salted -water, drain them off and add them to some clear soup. (_See_ CLEAR SOUP.) - - -MACARONI SOUP (THICK).--Take an onion, carrot, a small head of celery and a -very small quantity of turnip; cut them up and boil them in a very small -quantity of water for about an hour. Then rub the whole through a wire -sieve, add a quart or more of boiling milk, throw in the macaroni, after -breaking it up into pieces two inches long, and let the macaroni simmer in -this till it is perfectly tender. The soup should be thickened with a very -little white roux, a bay-leaf can be boiled in the soup; a small quantity -of cream is a great improvement. Fried or toasted bread should be served -with it. - - -MILK SOUP.--Milk soup, as it is sometimes called in Germany, very much -resembles English custard. It is made by putting a quart of milk on the -fire and thickening it with two yolks of eggs and a little flour, and -sweetening it with sugar. The soup is flavoured with either vanilla, -lemon, laurel leaves, pounded almonds, cinnamon, chocolate, &c. As a soup, -however, it is not suited to the English palate. - - -MOCK TURTLE, IMITATION.--Take an onion, carrot, small head of celery, and -some turnip, and boil them till they are tender in some stock. The water -in which some rice has been boiled is very well suited for the purpose. -Add also to every quart a brimming tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. -Rub the whole through a wire sieve, thicken it with brown roux till it is -as thick as cream; add a few drops of Parisian essence--(sold in bottles by -all grocers)--to give it a dark colour. Add a wineglassful of sherry or -Madeira, or, if the use of wine be objected to, the juice of a hard lemon. -Flavour the soup with a little cayenne pepper, and serve some egg forcemeat -balls in it, about the size of small marbles. - - -MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.--Take four large onions, cut them up and fry them brown, -with a little butter, in a frying-pan, with a carrot cut up into small -pieces; add to this a quart of stock or water, and boil till the vegetables -and onions are tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve and add a -brimming teaspoonful of Captain White's Curry Paste and a dessertspoonful -of curry powder, previously mixed smooth in a little cold water; thicken -the soup with a little brown roux. Some persons would consider this soup -too hot; if so, less curry powder can be used or more water added. If you -have no curry paste, cut up a sour apple and add it to the vegetables in -the frying-pan. If you have no sour apples, a few green gooseberries are a -very good substitute. Boiled rice should be served on a separate dish with -this soup, and should not be boiled in the soup at starting. - - -ONION SOUP.--Cut up half a dozen onions and throw them for a few minutes -into boiling water. This takes off the rankness. Drain off the onions, -and chop them up and boil them till they are tender in some milk that has -been seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of savoury herbs. Take a -small quantity of celery, carrot and turnip, or carrot and turnip and a -little bruised celery seed, and boil till they are tender in a very little -water; rub through a wire sieve, and add the pulp to the soup. The soup -can be thickened with white roux, ground rice, or one or two eggs beaten -up. The soup must be added to the eggs gradually or they will curdle. - - -ONION SOUP, BROWN.--Take an onion, carrot, celery, and turnip, and let them -boil till quite tender in some water or stock. In the meantime slice up -half a dozen large onions and fry them brown in a little butter, in a -frying-pan, taking care that the onions are browned and not burnt black; -add the contents of the frying-pan to the vegetables and stock, and after -it has boiled some time, till the onions are tender, rub the whole through -a wire sieve, thicken with a little brown roux, adding, of course, pepper -and salt to taste. - - -OX-TAIL SOUP, IMITATION.--Slice off the outside red part of two or three -large carrots, and cut them up into small dice not bigger than a quarter of -an inch square. Cut up also into similar size a young turnip, and the -white, hard part of a head of celery. Fry these very gently in a little -butter, taking care that the vegetables do not turn colour. Make some soup -exactly in every respect similar to that described in Imitation Mock -Turtle. Throw in these fried vegetables, and let the soup simmer gently by -the side of the fire, in order for it to throw up its butter, which should -be skimmed off. In flavouring the soup, add only half the quantity of wine -or lemon juice that you would use were you making Mock Turtle. - - -PALESTINE SOUP.--(_See_ ARTICHOKE SOUP.) - - -PARSNIP SOUP.--Prepare half a dozen parsnips, and boil them with an onion -and half a head of celery in some stock till they are quite tender. Then -rub the whole through a wire sieve, boil it up again, and serve. -Sufficient parsnips must be boiled to make the soup as thick as pea soup, -so the quantity of stock must be regulated accordingly. This soup is -generally rather sweet, owing to the parsnips, and an extra quantity of -salt must be added in consequence, as well as pepper. In Belgium and -Germany this sweetness is corrected by the addition of vinegar. This, of -course, is a matter of taste. - - -PEAR SOUP.--Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. Put them into -a stew-pan with a penny roll cut into thin slices, half a dozen cloves, and -three pints of water. Let them simmer until they are quite tender, then -pass them through a coarse sieve, and return the puree to the saucepan, -with two ounces of sugar, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, and half a -tumblerful of light wine. Let the soup boil five or ten minutes, when it -will be ready for serving. Send some sponge-cake to table with this dish. - - -PEA SOUP, FROM SPLIT DRIED PEAS.--Take a pint of split peas and put them in -soak overnight in some cold water, and throw away those that float, as this -shows that there is a hole in them which would be mildewy. Take two -onions, a carrot, a small head of celery, and boil them with the peas in -from three pints to two quarts of water till they are tender. This will be -from four to five hours. When the peas are old and stale even longer time -should be allowed. Then rub the whole through a wire sieve, put the soup -back into the saucepan, and stir it while you make it hot or it will burn. -In ordinary cookery, pea soup is invariably made from some kind of greasy -stock, more especially the water in which pickled pork has been boiled. In -the present instance we have no kind of fat to counteract the natural -dryness of the pea-flour. We must therefore add, before sending to table, -two or three ounces of butter. It will be found best to dissolve the -butter in the saucepan before adding the soup to be warmed up, as it is -then much less likely to stick to the bottom of the saucepan and burn. -Fried or toasted bread should be served with the soup separately, as well -as dried and powdered mint. The general mistake people make is, they do -not have sufficient mint. - - -PEA SOUP, FROM DRIED GREEN PEAS.--Proceed as in the above recipe in every -respect, substituting dried green peas for ordinary yellow split peas. -Colour the soup green by adding a large handful of spinach before it is -rubbed through the wire sieve, or add a small quantity of spinach extract -(vegetable colouring sold by grocers in bottles); dried mint and fried or -toasted bread should be served with the soup, as with the other. - - -PEA SOUP, GREEN (FRESH).--Take half a peck of young peas, shell them, and -throw the peas into cold water. Put all the shells into a quart or more of -stock or water. Put in also a handful of spinach if possible, a few sprigs -of parsley, a dozen fresh mint-leaves and half a dozen small, fresh, green -onions. Boil these for an hour, or rather more, and then rub the whole -through a wire sieve. You cannot rub all the shells through; but you will -be able to rub a great part through, that which is left in the sieve being -only strings. Now put on the soup to boil again, and as soon as it boils -throw in the peas; as soon as these are tender--about twenty minutes--the -soup is finished and can be sent to table. If the soup is thin, a little -white roux can be added to thicken it; if of a bad colour, or if you could -not get any spinach, add some spinach extract (vegetable colouring, sold by -all grocers), only take care not to add too much, and make the soup look -like green paint. - -POTATO SOUP.--Potato soup is a very good method of using up the remains of -cold boiled potatoes. Slice up a large onion and fry it, without letting -it turn colour, with a little butter. Add a little water or stock to the -frying-pan, and let the onion boil till it is tender. Boil a quart or more -of milk separately with a couple of bay-leaves; rub the onion with the cold -potatoes through a wire sieve and add it to the milk. You can moisten the -potatoes in the sieve with the milk. When you have rubbed enough to make -the soup thick enough, let it boil up and add to every quart a saltspoonful -of thyme and a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley. This soup -should be rather thicker than most thick soups. - -When new potatoes first come into season, and especially when you have new -potatoes from your own garden, it will often be found that mixed with the -ordinary ones there are many potatoes no bigger than a toy marble, and -which are too small to be boiled and sent to table as an ordinary dish of -new potatoes. Reserve all these little dwarf potatoes, wash them, and -throw them for five or ten minutes into boiling water, drain them off and -throw them into the potato soup whole. Of course they must boil in the -soup till they are tender. A little cream is a great improvement to the -soup, and dried mint can be served with it, but is not absolutely -necessary. - - -PUMPKIN SOUP.--Take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized pumpkin, pare it, -remove the seeds, and cut the pumpkin into thin slices. Put these into a -stew-pan, with as much water or milk as will cover them, and boil gently -until they are reduced to a pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with -it a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, and stir it -over the fire until it boils. Thin it with some boiling milk which has -been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind, cinnamon, or orange-flower -water. It should be of the consistency of thick cream. Put toasted bread, -cut into the size of dice, at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Moisten the -bread-dice with a small quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little -while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, and serve very hot. Or -whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen, and pour the soup in over -them at the last moment. The liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for -a minute or two before it is poured over the eggs. - - -RHUBARB SOUP.--This is a sweet soup, and is simply juice from stewed -rhubarb sweetened and flavoured with lemon-peel and added either to cream -or beaten-up yolks of eggs and a little white wine. It is rarely met with -in this country. - - -RICE SOUP.--Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and wash it in several -waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Take an onion, the white -part of a head of celery, and a turnip, and cut them up and fry them in a -little butter. Add a quart of stock, or water, and boil these vegetables -until they are tender, and then rub them through a wire sieve. Boil the -rice in this soup till it is tender, flavour with pepper and salt, add a -little milk boiled separately, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with the -soup. - - -RICE SOUP A LA ROYALE.--Take half a pound of rice and wash it thoroughly in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Boil this rice in -some stock that has been strongly flavoured with onion, carrot and celery, -and strained off. When the rice is tender rub it through a wire sieve, -then add some boiling milk, in which two or three bay-leaves have been -boiled, and half a pint of cream, till the soup is a proper consistency. -Serve some egg force-meat balls with the soup. - - -SORREL SOUP.--Take some sorrel and wash it very thoroughly. Like spinach, -it requires a great deal of cleansing. Drain it off and place the sorrel -in a stew-pan, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon. When it has -dissolved and boiled for two or three minutes, let it drain on a sieve till -the water has run off. Next cut up a large onion and fry it in a little -butter, but do not brown the onion. Add a tablespoonful of flour to every -two ounces of butter used, also a teaspoonful of sugar, a little grated -nutmeg, also a little pepper and salt; add the sorrel to this, with a small -quantity of stock or water, then rub the whole through a wire sieve, and -serve. In some parts of the Continent vinegar is added, but it is not -adapted to English taste. - - -SAGO SOUP.--Take two ounces of sage, and having washed it very thoroughly, -put it on to boil in a quart of stock strongly flavoured with onion, -celery, and carrot, but which has been strained off. The sage must boil -until it becomes quite transparent and tender. Flavour the soup with a -little pepper and salt, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, about half a -teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice from a hard -lemon. - - -SEA-KALE SOUP.--This makes a very delicious soup, but it is somewhat rare. -Take a bundle of sea-kale, the whiter the better. Threw it into boiling -water, and let it boil for a few minutes, then take it out and drain it; -cut it up into small pieces and place it in a stew-pan with about two -ounces of butter, add a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg; stir it -up until the butter is thoroughly melted, but do not let it turn colour in -the slightest degree. Add some milk, and let it simmer very gently for -about half an hour. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, and add a small -quantity of cream. Serve with toasted or fried bread. - - -SCOTCH BROTH.--Take two or three ounces of pearl barley, wash it, and threw -it into boiling water, and let it boil for five or ten minutes. Then drain -it off and threw away the water. This is the only way to get pearl barley -perfectly clean. Then put on the barley in some stock or water, and let it -boil for four hours, till it is tender. Then add to it every kind of -vegetable that is in season, such as onion, celery, carrot, turnip, peas, -French beans, cut up into small pieces, hearts of lettuces cut up. Flavour -with pepper and salt and serve altogether. If possible add leeks to this -soup instead of onion, and just before serving the soup throw in a brimming -dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley to every quart of soup. A -pinch of thyme can also be added. - - -SPINACH SOUP.--Wash some young, freshly gathered spinach, cut it up with a -lettuce, and, if possible, a few leaves of sorrel, and throw them into -boiling water. Let them boil for five minutes, drain them off, and throw -them into cold water in order to keep their colour. Next take them out of -the water and squeeze all the moisture from them; then melt two ounces of -butter in a stew-pan, and add two tablespoonfuls of flour. When this is -thoroughly mixed together, and begins to frizzle, add the spinach, lettuce, -&c., and stir them round and round in the stew-pan till all is well mixed -together. Then add sufficient water or vegetable stock to moisten the -vegetables (add also a pinch of thyme), and let it boil. When it has -boiled for about twenty minutes add a quart of milk that has been boiled -separately, flavour with pepper and salt, and serve. - - -TAPIOCA SOUP.--Clear tapioca soup is made by thickening some ordinary clear -soup (_see_ CLEAR SOUP) with tapioca, allowing about two ounces of tapioca -to every quart. The tapioca should be put into the soup when it is cold, -and it is then far less likely to get lumpy. Tapioca can also be boiled in -a little strongly flavoured stock that has not been coloured, and then add -some boiling milk. Tapioca should be allowed to simmer for an hour and a -half. Of course, a little cream is a great improvement when the soup is -made with milk. - - -TOMATO SOUP.--This is a very delicate soup, and the endeavour should be to -try and retain the flavour of the tomato. Slice up an onion, or better -still two shallots, and fry them in a little butter, to which can be added -a broken-up, dried bay-leaf, a saltspoonful of thyme, and a very small -quantity of grated nutmeg, Fry these in a little batter till the onion -begins to turn colour, and then add a dozen ripe tomatoes from which the -pips have been squeezed. Moisten with a very little stock or water, and -let them stew till they are tender, then rub the whole through a wire -sieve. The consistency should be that of pea soup. Add a little butter to -soften the soup), and flavour with pepper and salt. - - -TURNIP SOUP.--Cut up some young turnips into small pieces, throw them into -boiling water, let them boil for a few minutes, take them out and strain -them, and put them into a stew-pan with about two ounces of fresh butter; -add a little salt and sugar. Let them stew in the butter (taking great -care that they don't turn colour) till they become soft, then add -sufficient boiling milk to moisten them, so that when rubbed through a wire -sieve the soup will be of the consistency of pea soup. Serve fried or -toasted bread with the soup. - - -VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP.--Take a large vegetable marrow, peel it, cut it -open, remove all the pips, and place it in a stew-pan with about two ounces -of fresh butter. Add a brimming teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a little -grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt. Keep turning the pieces of vegetable -marrow over in the butter, taking care that they do not at all turn colour. -After frying these pieces gently for five or ten minutes, add some boiling -milk, and let the whole simmer gently till it can be rubbed through a wire -sieve. Care must be taken not to get this soup too thin, as the vegetable -marrow itself contains a large quantity of water. Season with pepper and -salt, and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - -VEGETABLE SOUP.--(_See_ JARDINIERE SOUP.) - - -VERMICELLI SOUP.--Take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli and break it up -into small pieces, throw it into boiling water, and let it boil for five -minutes to get rid of the dirt and floury taste, then throw it immediately -into about a quart of clear soup. The vermicelli must be taken from the -boiling water and thrown into the boiling soup at once. If you were to -boil the vermicelli, strain it off, and put it by to add to the soup, you -would find it would stick together in one lump and be spoilt. - - -VERMICELLI SOUP, WHITE.--The vermicelli must be thrown into white soup -instead of clear soup. (_See_ WHITE SOUP.) - - -WHITE SOUP.--Just as in ordinary white soup the secret of success is to -have some strongly reduced stock, so in vegetarian white soup it is -essential that we should have a small quantity of liquid strongly -impregnated with the flavour of vegetables. For this purpose, place an -onion, the white part of a head of celery, and a slice of turnip in a -stew-pan with a little butter, and fry them till they are tender without -becoming brown. Now add sufficient water to enable you to boil them, and -let the water boil away till very little is left. Now rub this through a -wire sieve and add it to a quart of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves -have been boiled. Thicken the soup with a little white roux, add a -suspicion of nutmeg, and also, if possible, a little cream. Flavour with -pepper and salt. Serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -SAUCES. - - -SAUCE ALLEMANDE.--Take a pint of butter sauce--(_see_ BUTTER SAUCE)--and -add to it four yolks of eggs. In order to do this you must beat up the -yolks separately in a basin and add the hot butter sauce gradually, -otherwise the yolks of eggs will curdle and the sauce will be spoilt. In -fact, it must be treated exactly like custard, and in warming up the sauce -it is often a good plan, if you have no _bain-marie_, to put the sauce in a -jug and place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water. The sauce should be -flavoured with a little essence of mushroom if possible. Essence of -mushroom can be made from the trimmings of mushrooms, but mushroom ketchup -must not be used on account of the colour. Essence of mushroom can be made -by placing the trimmings of mushrooms in a saucepan, stewing them gently, -and extracting the flavour. The large black mushrooms, however, are not -suited. In addition to this essence of mushroom, a little lemon -juice--allowing the juice of half a lemon to every pint, should be added to -the sauce, as well as a slight suspicion of nutmeg, a pint of sauce -requiring about a dozen grates of a nutmeg. A little cream is a great -improvement to this sauce, but is not absolutely necessary. The sauce -should be perfectly smooth. Should it therefore contain any lumps, which -is not unfrequently the case in butter sauce, pass the sauce through a -sieve with a wooden spoon and then put it by in a _bain-marie_, or warm it -up in a jug as directed. - - -ALMOND SAUCE.--This is suitable for puddings. The simplest way of making -it is to make, say half a pint of butter sauce, or, cheaper, thicken half a -pint of milk with a little corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, and -then add a few drops of essence of almonds. About a dozen drops will be -sufficient if the essence is strong, but essence of almonds varies greatly -in strength. The sauce can be coloured pink with a few drops of cochineal. - - -ALMOND SAUCE (CLEAR).--Thicken half a pint of water with a little -corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, add a dozen drops of essence of -almonds and a few drops of cochineal to colour it pink. The sauce is very -suitable to pour over custard puddings made in a basin or cup and turned -out on to a dish. It is also very cheap. - - -APPLE SAUCE.--Peel say a dozen apples; cut them into quarters; and be very -careful in removing all the core, as many a child is choked through -carelessness in this respect. Stew the apples in a little water till they -become a pulp, placing with them half a dozen cloves and half a dozen -strips of the yellow part only of the outside of the rind of a _fresh_ -lemon of the size and thickness of the thumb-nail; sweeten with brown -sugar, that known as Porto Rico being the most economical. Add a small -piece of butter before serving. - - -ARROWROOT SAUCE.--Thicken half a pint of water with about a dessertspoonful -of arrowroot and sweeten it with white sugar. The sauce can be flavoured -by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or with a few -drops of essence of vanilla, or with the addition of a little sherry or -spirit, the best spirit being rum. This sauce can, of course, be coloured -pink with cochineal. - - -ARTICHOKE SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as if you were making artichoke soup, -only make the puree thicker by using less liquid. A simple artichoke sauce -can be made by boiling down a few Jerusalem artichokes to a pulp, rubbing -them through a wire sieve, and flavouring with pepper and salt. - - -ASPARAGUS SAUCE.--Boil a bundle of asparagus and rub all the green, tender -part through a wire sieve, till it is a thick pulp, flavour with a little -pepper and salt, add a small piece of butter, and a little spinach extract -(vegetable colouring sold in bottles) in order to give it a good colour. - - -BREAD SAUCE.--Take some dry crumb of bread, and rub through a wire sieve. -The simplest plan is to turn the wire sieve upside down on a large sheet of -paper. The bread must be stale, and stale pieces can be put by for this -purpose. Next take, say, a pint of milk, and let it boil; then throw in -the bread-crumbs and let them _boil_ in the milk. This is the secret of -good bread sauce. Add a dozen peppercorns, and place a whole onion in the -saucepan containing the bread and milk, and place the saucepan beside the -fire in order to allow the bread-crumbs to swell. It will be found that -though at starting the bread sauce was quite thin and milky, yet after a -time it becomes thick. Take out the onion, add a little piece of butter, -stir it up, and serve. A little cream is a great improvement, but is not -absolutely necessary. This sauce, though very simple, requires care: Many -persons will probably recollect having met with bread sauce which in -appearance resembled a poultice too much to be agreeable either to the -palate or the eye. - - -BUTTER SAUCE.--This is the most important of all the sauces with which we -have to deal. The great mistake made by the vast majority of women cooks -is that they will use milk. They thicken a pint of milk with a little -butter and flour, and then call it melted butter, and, as a rule, send to -table enough for twenty persons when only two or three are dining. As -butter sauce will be served with the majority of vegetables, we would call -the attention of vegetarians to the fact that, as a rule, ordinary -cookery-books take for granted that vegetables will be served with the -meat. When therefore vegetables are served separately, and are intended to -be eaten with bread as a course by themselves, some alteration must be made -in the method of serving them. Again, vegetarians should bear in mind -that, except in cases where poverty necessitates rigid economy, a certain -amount of butter may be considered almost a necessity, should the meal be -wished to be both wholesome and nourishing. Francatelli, who was -_chef-de-cuisine_ to the Earl of Chesterfield, and was also chief cook to -the Queen and _chef_ at the Reform Club, and afterwards manager of the -Freemasons' Tavern, in writing on this subject observes:--"Butter sauce, -or, as it is more absurdly called, melted butter, is the foundation of the -whole of the following sauces, and requires very great care in its -preparation. Though simple, it is nevertheless a very useful and agreeable -sauce when properly made. So far from this being usually the case, it is -too generally left to assistants to prepare, as an insignificant matter; -the result is therefore seldom satisfactory. When a large quantity of -butter sauce is required, put four ounces of fresh butter into a -middle-sized stew-pan, with some grated nutmeg and minionette pepper; to -these add four ounces of sifted flour, knead the whole well together, and -moisten with a pint of cold spring water; stir the sauce on the fire till -it boils, and after having kept it gently boiling for twenty minutes -(observing that it be not thicker than the consistency of common white -sauce), proceed to mix in one pound and a half of sweet fresh butter, -taking care to stir the sauce quickly the whole time of the operation. -Should it appear to turn oily, add now and then a spoonful of cold spring -water; finish with the juice of half a lemon, and salt to palate; then pass -the sauce through a tammy into a large _bain-marie_ for use." - -We have quoted the recipe of the late M. Francatelli in full, as we believe -it is necessary to refer to some very great authority in order to knock out -the prejudice from the minds of many who think that they not only can -themselves cook, but teach others, but who are bound in the chains of -prejudice and tradition which, too often, in the most simple recipes, lead -them to follow in the footsteps of their grandmothers. - -Real butter sauce can be made as follows, on a small scale:--Take a -claret-glass of water, and about a small teaspoonful of flour mixed with -rather more than the same quantity of butter, and mix this in the water -over the fire till it is of the consistency of very thin gruel. If it is -thicker than this, add a little more water. Now take any quantity of -butter, and gradually dissolve as much as you can in this thin gruel, -adding say half an ounce at a time, till the sauce becomes a rich oily -compound. After a time, if you add too much butter, the sauce will curdle -and turn oily, as described by Francatelli. - -Of course, in everyday life it is not necessary to have the butter sauce so -rich, still it is simply ridiculous to thicken a pint of milk, or a pint of -water, with a little butter and flour, and then call it butter sauce or -melted butter. Suppose we have a large white cabbage, like those met with -in the West of England, and we are going to make a meal off it in -conjunction with plenty of bread. Suppose the cabbage is sufficiently -large for six persons, surely half a pound of butter is not an excessive -quantity to use in making butter sauce for the purpose. Yet prejudice is -such that if we use half a pound of butter for the butter sauce, -housekeepers consider it extravagant. On the other hand, if the butter -were placed on the table, and the six persons helped themselves, and ate -bread and butter with the cabbage and finished the half-pound, it would not -be considered extravagant. Of course, this is simply prejudice. - -A simple way of making melted butter is as follows:--Take half a pint of -cold water, put it in a saucepan, and add sufficient white roux, or butter -and flour mixed, till it is of the consistency of thin gruel. Now -gradually dissolve in this, adding a little piece at a time, as much butter -as you can afford; add a suspicion of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and -a few drops of lemon-juice from a fresh lemon, if you have one in use. - - -BUTTER, MELTED, OR OILED BUTTER.--Melted butter, properly speaking, is -rarely met with in this country, but is a common everyday sauce on the -Continent. It is simply what it says. A piece of butter is placed in a -little sauce-boat and placed in the oven till the butter runs to oil, and -then sent to table with all kinds of fish with which in our present work we -have nothing to do; but it is also sent to table with all kinds of -vegetables, such as French artichokes, &c.; sometimes a spoonful of French -capers is added to the oiled butter. - - -BUTTER, BLACK, OR BEURRE NOIR.--Take two ounces of butter, and dissolve it -in a frying-pan, and let it frizzle till the butter turns a brown colour; -then add a tablespoonful of French vinegar, a teaspoonful of chopped -capers, a teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, and a teaspoonful of mushroom -ketchup. Let it remain on the fire till the acidity of the vinegar is -removed by evaporation. This is a very delicious sauce, and can be served -with Jerusalem artichokes boiled whole, fried eggs, &c. - - -CAPER SAUCE.--Make some butter sauce, and to every half-pint of sauce add a -dessertspoonful of chopped French capers. If the sauce is liked sharp, add -some of the vinegar from the bottle of capers. - - -CARROT SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in carrot soup, using less liquid. - - -CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in cauliflower soup, using less -liquid. - - -CELERY SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in celery soup, only using less liquid. -The thicker this sauce is the better. - - -CHERRY SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries, and put them -into a small stew-pan, with a dessertspoonful of black currant jelly, a -small stick of cinnamon, with half a dozen cloves, and add rather less than -half a pint of water, and let the whole simmer gently for about ten -minutes, when you must take out the spices and send the rest to table. - -N.B.--If wine is not objected to in cooking, it is a very good plan to add -claret instead of water. - - -CHESTNUT SAUCE.--Proceed as in making chestnut soup, using as little liquid -as possible, so as to make the sauce thick. - - -CINNAMON SAUCE.--The simplest way of making cinnamon sauce is to sweeten -some butter sauce with some white sugar, and then add a few drops of -essence of cinnamon. The sauce can be coloured pink with a little -cochineal. A little wine is an improvement. The sauce can also be made by -breaking up and boiling a stick of cinnamon in some water, and then using -the water to make some butter sauce. - - -COCOANUT SAUCE.--Grate the white, part of a cocoanut very finely, and boil -it till tender in a very small quantity of water; add about an equal -quantity of white sugar as there was cocoa-nut; mix in either the yolk of -an egg or a tablespoonful of cream. A little lemon juice is an -improvement. - - -CUCUMBER SAUCE.--Take two or three small cucumbers, peel them, slice them, -and place them in a dish with a little salt, which has the effect of -extracting the water. Now drain the pieces off and strain then in a cloth, -to extract as much moisture as possible. Put then in a frying-pan with a -little butter; fry them very gently, till they begin to turn colour, then -nib them through a wire sieve; moisten the pulp with a little butter sauce; -add a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg and vinegar to taste. - - -CURRANT SAUCE (RED).--Put a couple of tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly -into a small stew-pan, with half a dozen cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, -and the rind of an orange. Moisten with a little water, or still better, a -little claret, strain it off, and add the juice of the orange. - - -CURRANT SAUCE (BLACK).--Proceed exactly as in the above recipe, -substituting black currant jelly for red. - - -CURRY SAUCE.--Take six large onions, peel them, cut them up into small -pieces, and fry them in a frying-pan in about two ounces of butter. As -soon as the onions begin to change colour, take a small carrot and cut it -up into little piece; and a sour apple. When the onions, etc., are fried a -nice brown, add about a pint of vegetable stock or water and let the whole -simmer till the vegetables are quite tender, then add a tea-spoonful of -Captain White's curry paste and a dessertspoonful of curry powder; now rub -the whole through a wire sieve, and take care that all the vegetables go -through. It is rather troublesome, but will repay you, as good curry sauce -cannot be made without. The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick owing -to the vegetables being rubbed through the wire sieve. Should therefore -the onions be small, less water or stock had better be added. Curry sauce -could be thickened with a little brown roux, but it takes away from the -flavour of the curry. A few bay-leaves may be added to the sauce and -served up whole in whatever is curried. For instance, if we have a dish of -curried rice, half a dozen or more bay-leaves could be added to the sauce -and served up with the rice. - -There are many varieties of curry. In India fresh mangoes take the part of -our sour apples. Some persons add grated cocoanut to curry, and it is well -worth a trial, although on the P. and O. boats the Indian curry-cook mixes -the curry fresh every day and uses cocoanut oil for the purpose. In some -parts of India it is customary to serve up whole chillies in the curry, but -this would be better adapted to a stomach suffering from the effects of -brandy-pawnee than to the simple taste of the vegetarian. - - -DUTCH SAUCE.--This is very similar to Allemande Sauce. Take half a pint of -good butter sauce, make it thoroughly hot, add two yolks of eggs, taking -care that they do not curdle, a little pepper and salt, a suspicion of -nutmeg, and about a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. Some persons -instead of using tarragon vinegar add a little lemon juice, say the half of -a fresh lemon to this quantity, and half a dozen fresh tarragon leaves, -blanched--that is, dipped for a few seconds in boiling water--and then -chopped very fine. The tarragon vinegar is much the simplest, as it is -very difficult to get fresh tarragon leaves unless one has a good garden or -lives near Covent Garden Market. - - -DUTCH SAUCE (GREEN).--Proceed exactly as above and colour the sauce a -bright green with a little spinach extract (vegetable colouring, sold in -bottles by all grocers). - - -EGG SAUCE.--Take half a dozen eggs, put them in a saucepan with sufficient -cold water to cover them. Put them on the fire and let them boil for ten -minutes after the water boils. Take them out and put them into cold water -and let them stand for ten minutes, when the shells can be removed; then -cut up the six hard-boiled eggs into little pieces, add sufficient butter -sauce to moisten them, make the whole hot, and serve. - -N.B.--Inexperienced cooks often think that hard-boiled eggs are bad when -they are not, owing to their often having a tinge of green colour round the -outside of the yolk and to their emitting a peculiar smell when the shells -are first removed while hot All eggs contain a small quantity of -sulphuretted hydrogen. - - -FENNEL SAUCE.--Blanch and chop up sufficient fennel to colour half a pint -of butter sauce a bright green, add a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice, -and serve. - - -GERMAN SWEET SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries, a small -saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a few strips of lemon peel, and put -them in a small saucepan with about a quarter of a pint of water, or still -better, claret, if wine is allowed, and let them simmer on the fire gently -for about half an hour; then rub the cherries through a wire sieve with the -liquor--(of course, the lemon peel and cloves will not rub through)--and -add this to a quarter of a pound of stewed prunes. This is a very popular -sauce abroad. - - -GINGER SAUCE.--The simplest way of making ginger sauce is to sweeten half a -pint of butter sauce and then add a few drops of essence of ginger. A -richer ginger sauce can be made by taking two or three tablespoonfuls of -preserved ginger and two or three tablespoonfuls of the syrup in which they -are preserved, rubbing this through a wire sieve, adding about an equal -quantity of butter sauce, making the whole hot in a saucepan. - - -GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.--Pick and then stew some green gooseberries, just -moistening the stewpan with a little water to prevent them burning. Rub -the whole through a hair sieve in order to avoid having any pips in the -sauce. Sweeten with a little Demerara sugar, as Porto Rico would be too -dark in colour. Colour the sauce a bright green with a little spinach -extract. - -N.B.--It is a mistake to add cream to gooseberry sauce, which is distinct -altogether from gooseberry fool. In Germany, vinegar is added to this -sauce and it is served with meat. - - -HORSE-RADISH SAUCE.--Horse-radish sauce is made, properly speaking, by -mixing grated horse-radish with cream, vinegar, sugar, made mustard, and a -little pepper and salt. A very simple method of making this sauce is to -substitute tinned Swiss milk for the cream and sugar. It is equally nice, -more economical, and possesses this great advantage: a few tins of Swiss -milk can always be kept in the store cupboard, whereas there is -considerable difficulty, especially in all large towns, in obtaining cream -without giving twenty-four hours' notice, and the result even then is not -always satisfactory. Horse-radish sauce is very delicious, and its -thickness should be entirely dependent upon the amount of grated -horse-radish. Sticks of horse-radish vary so very much in size that we -will say, grate sufficient to fill a teacup, throw this into a sauce -tureen, mix a dessertspoonful of Swiss milk with a tablespoonful of vinegar -and about two tablespoonfuls of milk and a teaspoonful of made mustard, add -this to the horse-radish, and, if necessary, sufficient milk to make the -whole of the consistency of bread sauce. As the sauce is very hot, as a -rule it is best not to add any pepper, which can be easily added afterwards -by those who like it. - - -INDIAN PICKLE SAUCE.--Chop up two or three tablespoonfuls of Indian -pickles, place them in a frying-pan with a quarter of a pint of water, and -if the pickles are sour as well as hot, let them simmer some little time so -as to get rid of the vinegar by evaporation. Then thicken the whole with -some brown roux till the sauce is as thick as pea soup. The vinegar should -be got rid of as much as possible. This is a very appetising dish with -boiled rice and Parmesan cheese. - - -ITALIAN SAUCE.--This is an old-fashioned recipe taken from a book written -in French, and published more than fifty years ago. Put into a saucepan a -little parsley, a shallot, some mushrooms and truffles, chopped very -finely, with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. Let all boil -gently for half an hour, add a spoonful of oil, and serve. - - -MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.--Maitre d'hotel sauce is simply a lump of butter -mixed with some chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and lemon juice. - -Hot sauce is often called Maitre d'hotel when chopped blanched parsley and -lemon juice is added to a little white sauce. - - -MANGO CHUTNEY SAUCE.--Take a couple of tablespoonfuls of Mango Chutney, -moisten it with two or three tablespoonfuls of butter sauce, rub the whole -through a wire sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Or the chutney can be -simply chopped up fine and added to the butter sauce without rubbing -through the wire sieve. - - -MAYONNAISE SAUCE.--This is the most delicious of all cold sauces. It is -composed entirely of raw yolk of egg and oil, flavoured with a dash of -vinegar. When made properly it should be of the consistency of butter in -summer time. Many women cooks labour under the delusion that it requires -the addition of cream. Mayonnaise sauce is made as follows:--Break an egg -and separate the yolk from the white, and place the yolk at the bottom of a -large basin. Next take a bottle of oil, which must be cool but bright; if -the oil is cloudy, as it often is in cold weather, you cannot make the -sauce. Nor can you if the oil has been kept in a warm place. Now proceed -to let the oil drop, drop by drop, on the yolk of egg, and with a silver -fork, or still better, a wooden one, beat the yolk of egg and oil quickly -together. Continue to drop the oil, taking care that only a few drops drop -at a time, especially at starting, and continue to beat the mixture lightly -and quickly. Gradually the yolk of egg and oil will begin to get thick, -first of all like custard. When this is the case a little more oil may be -added at a time, but never more than a teaspoonful. As more oil is added, -and the beating continues, the sauce gets thicker and thicker, till it is -nearly as thick as butter in summer time. When it arrives at this stage no -more oil should be added. A little tarragon vinegar may be added at the -finish, or a little lemon juice. This makes the sauce whiter in colour. -One yolk of egg will take a teacupful of oil. It is best to add pepper and -salt when the salad is mixed. Mayonnaise sauce is by far the best sauce -for lettuce salad. It will keep a day, but should be kept in a cool place, -and the basin should be covered over with a moist cloth. - - -MAYONNAISE SAUCE, GREEN.--Make some mayonnaise sauce as above, and colour -it with some spinach colouring (vegetable colouring, sold in bottles by all -grocers). - - -MINT SAUCE.--Take plenty of fresh mint leaves, as the secret of good mint -sauce is to have plenty of mint. Chop up sufficient mint to fill a teacup, -put this at the bottom of a sauce tureen, pour sufficient boiling water on -the mint to thoroughly moisten it, and add a tablespoonful of brown sugar, -which dissolves best when the water is hot. Press the mint with a -tablespoon to extract the flavour, let it stand till it is quite cold, and -then add three or four tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar, stir it up, and the -sauce is ready. The quantity of vinegar added is purely a matter of taste, -but a teaspoonful of chopped mint floating in half a pint of vinegar is no -more mint sauce than dipping a mutton chop in a quart of boiling water -would be soup in ordinary cookery. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, WHITE.--Mushroom sauce can be made from fresh mushrooms or -tinned mushrooms. When made from fresh they must be small button -mushrooms, and not those that are black underneath. They must be peeled, -cut small, and have a little lemon juice squeezed over them to prevent them -turning colour, or they had still better be thrown into lemon juice and -water. They must now be fried in a frying-pan with a small quantity of -butter till they are tender, and then added to a little thickened milk, or -still better, cream. When made from tinned mushrooms, simply chop up the -mushrooms, reserving the liquor, then add a little cream and thicken with a -little white roux. A little pepper and salt should be added in both cases. -Instead of using either milk or cream, you can use a small quantity of -sauce Allemande. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, BROWN.--Proceed exactly as above with regard to the -mushrooms, both fresh and tinned, only instead of adding milk, cream, or -Allemande sauce, add a little stock or water, and then thicken the sauce -with a little brown roux. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, PUREE.--Mushroom sauce, both white and brown, is sometimes -served as a puree. It is simply either of the above sauces rubbed through -a wire sieve. - - -MUSTARD SAUCE.--Make, say, half a pint of good butter sauce, add to this a -tablespoonful of French mustard and a tablespoonful of made English -mustard. Stir this into the sauce, make it hot, and serve. - -N.B.--French mustard is sold ready-made in jars, and is flavoured with -tarragon, capers, ravigotte, &c. - - -ONION SAUCE.--Take half a dozen large onions, peel them and boil them in a -little salted water till they are tender. Then take them out and chop them -up fine, and put them in a stew-pan with a little milk. Thicken the sauce -with a little butter and flour, or white roux, and season with pepper and -salt. A very nice mild onion sauce is made by using Spanish onions. - - -ONION SAUCE, BROWN.--Slice up half a dozen good-sized onions; put them in a -frying-pan and fry them in a little butter till they begin to get brown, -but be careful not to burn them, and should there be a few black pieces in -the frying-pan, remove them; now chop up the onions, not too finely, and -put them in a saucepan with a very little stock or water, let them simmer -till they are tender, and then thicken the sauce with a little brown roux, -and flavour with pepper and salt. - - -ORANGE CREAM SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.--Take a large ripe orange and rub a dozen -lumps of sugar on the outside of the rind and dissolve these in a small -quantity of butter sauce, and add the juice of the orange, strained. Now -add a little cream, or half a pint of milk that has been boiled separately, -in which case the sauce will want thickening with a little white roux. -Rubbing the sugar on the outside of the rind of the orange gives a very -strong orange flavour indeed--far more than the juice of almost any number -of oranges would produce, so care must be taken not to overdo it. This is -what French cooks call zest of orange. - - -PARSLEY SAUCE.--Blanch and chop up sufficient parsley to make a brimming -tablespoonful when chopped. Add this to half a pint of butter sauce, with -a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice. It is very important to blanch the -parsley, _i.e._, throw it into a little boiling water before chopping. - - -PINE-APPLE SAUCE.--Take a pine-apple, peel it, cut it up into little pieces -on a dish, taking care not to lose any of the juice, place it in a saucepan -with a very little water, just sufficient to cover the pine-apple; let it -simmer gently until it is tender, and then add sufficient white sugar to -make the liquid almost a syrup; a teaspoonful of corn-flour, made smooth in -a little cold water, can be added; but the sauce should be of the -consistency of syrup, and the corn-flour does away with the difficulty of -making it too sickly. The juice of half a lemon may be added, and is, -perhaps, an improvement. - - -PLUM SAUCE.--When made from ripe plums, take, say, a pound, and place them -in a stew-pan with a very little water and a quarter of a pound of sugar. -Take out the stones and crack them. Throw the kernels into boiling water -so that you can rub off the skin, and add them to the sauce after you have -rubbed the stewed plums through a wire sieve. - -To make plum sauce from dried French plums proceed exactly as in making -Prune Sauce. (_See_ PRUNE SAUCE.) - - -POIVRADE SAUCE.--Take an onion, a very small head of celery, and a carrot, -and cut them into little pieces, and put them into a frying-pan with a -little butter, a saltspoonful of thyme, one or two dried bay-leaves, and -about a quarter of a grated nutmeg and two or three sprigs of parsley. Fry -these till they turn a light-brown colour, then add a little stock or -water, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Let this boil in the frying-pan -for about half an hour, till the liquid is reduced in quantity. Thicken it -with a little brown roux, and rub it through a wire sieve, make it hot, and -serve. If wine is allowed, the addition of a little sherry is a great -improvement to this sauce. - - -PRUNE SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of prunes, put them in a stew-pan -with just sufficient water to cover them, and let them stew. Put in one or -two strips of lemon-peel to stew with them, add a teaspoonful of brown -sugar, about sufficient powdered cinnamon to cover a shilling, and the -juice of half a lemon. When the prunes are quite tender take out the strip -of lemon-peel and stones, rub the whole through a wire sieve, and serve. - - -RADISH SAUCE.--Take a few bunches of radishes and grate them, and mix this -grated radish with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. You can colour -the sauce red by adding a little beetroot, and make the sauce hot by adding -a little grated horse-radish. This cold sauce is exceedingly nice with -cheese. These _grated_ radishes are more digestible than radishes served -whole. - - -RASPBERRY SAUCE.--This sauce is simply stewed raspberries rubbed through a -wire sieve and sweetened. Some red-currant juice should be added to give -it a colour. It is very nice made hot and then added to one or two -beaten-up eggs and poured over any plain puddings, such as boiled rice, &c. - - -RATAFIA SAUCE.--Add a few drops of essence of ratafia to some sweetened -arrowroot or to some butter sauce. The sauce can be coloured pink with a -few drops of cochineal. - - -RAVIGOTTE SAUCE.--Put a tablespoonful each of Harvey's sauce, tarragon -vinegar, and chilli vinegar into a small saucepan, and let it boil till it -is reduced to almost one-half in quantity, in order to get rid of the -acidity. Now add about half a pint of butter sauce, and throw in a -tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley. - - -ROBERT SAUCE.--Take a couple of onions, cut them up into small pieces, and -fry them with about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan. Drain off the -butter and add a couple of tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the frying-pan, and -let it simmer for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour so as to get rid of -the acidity of the vinegar. Now add a very little stock or water, stir it -tip, and thicken the sauce with a little brown roux. Add a dessertspoonful -of fresh mustard and a little pepper and salt. - - -SOUBISE SAUCE.--Sauce Soubise is simply white onion sauce, rubbed through a -wire sieve, and a little cream added. It is more delicate than ordinary -onion sauce, and is often served in France with roast pheasant. It owes -its name to a famous French general. - - -SORREL SAUCE.--Put about a quart of fresh green sorrel leaves (after being -thoroughly washed) into an enamelled saucepan, with a little fresh butter, -and let the sorrel stew till it is tender. Rub this through a wire sieve, -add a little powdered sugar and a little lemon juice; a little cream may be -added, but is not absolutely essential. - - -SWEET SAUCE.--Take half a pint of butter sauce, and sweeten it with a -little sugar. It can be flavoured by rubbing a little sugar on the outside -of a lemon, or with vanilla, essence of almonds, or any kind of sweet -essence. A little wine, brandy, or, still better, rum, is a great -improvement. Some persons add cream. - - -TARRAGON SAUCE.--Blanch a dozen tarragon leaves, chop them up, and stew -them in any kind of stock thickened with brown roux. - - -TARTAR SAUCE.--Take two or three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, and -add to this a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, as well as -a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to -the first joint, chopped very fine, and a brimming teaspoonful of French -mustard. Mix the whole well together. - -N.B.--A teaspoonful of anchovy sauce would be a great improvement were -anchovy sauce allowed in vegetarian cookery. - -TOMATO SAUCE.--The great secret of tomato sauce is to taste nothing but the -tomato. Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut off the stalks, and squeeze out -the pips, and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter, and let them -stew till they are tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. -This, in our opinion, is the best tomato sauce that can be made, the only -seasoning being a little pepper and salt. This wholesome and delicious -sauce can, however, be spoilt in a variety of ways--by the addition of -mace, cloves, shallots, onions, thyme, &c. It can also be made very -unwholesome by the addition of a quantity of vinegar. - -TRUFFLE SAUCE.--This sauce is very expensive if made from whole fresh -truffles, but can be made more cheaply if you can obtain some truffle chips -or parings. These must be stewed in a little stock, thickened with brown -roux, and then rubbed through a wire sieve, a little sherry being a great -improvement if wine is allowed. - - -VANILLA SAUCE.--Add some essence of vanilla to some sweetened butter sauce. - - -WHITE SAUCE.--White sauce is sometimes required for vegetables and -sometimes for puddings. In the former case some good-flavoured, uncoloured -stock must be thickened with white roux, and then have sufficient cream -added to it to make the sauce a pure white. - -When white sauce is wanted for puddings, sufficient butter sauce must be -sweetened, and very slightly flavoured with nutmeg or almond, and then an -equal quantity of cream added to it to make it a pure white. White sauce -should not have with it any strong predominant flavour. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -SAVOURY RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL, &c. - -RICE. - - -Probably all persons will admit that rice is a too much neglected form of -food in England. When we remember how small a quantity of rice weekly is -found sufficient to keep alive millions and millions of our -fellow-creatures in the East, it seems to be a matter of regret that rice -as an article of food is not more used by the thousands and thousands of -our fellow creatures in the East--not in the ordinary acceptation of the -term, but East of Temple Bar. Rice is cheap, nourishing, easily cooked, -and equally easily digested, yet that monster, custom, seems to step in and -prevent the bulk of the poor availing themselves of this light and -nourishing food solely for the reason that, as their grandfathers and -grandmothers did not eat rice before them, they do not see any reason why -they should, like the Irishman who objected to have his feet washed on the -same ground. Of the different kinds of rice Carolina is the best, the -largest, and the most expensive. Patna rice is almost as good; the grains -are long, small, and white, and it is the best rice for curry. Madras rice -is the cheapest. - -Rice, pure and simple, is the food most suited for hot climates and where a -natural indolence of disposition results in one's day's work of an ordinary -Englishman being divided among twenty people. As we move towards more -temperate zones it will be found the universal custom to qualify it by -mixing it with some other substance; thus, though rice is largely eaten in -Italy, it is almost invariably used in conjunction with Parmesan cheese. -Rice contains no flesh-forming properties whatever, as it contains no -nitrogen; and with all due respect to vegetarians, it will be found that as -we recede from the Equator and advance towards the Poles our food must of -necessity vary with the latitude, and, whereas we may start on a diet of -rice, we shall be forced, sooner or later, to depend upon a diet of -pemmican, or food of a similar nature. - - -RICE, TO BOIL.--The best method of boiling rice is, at any rate, a much -disputed point, if not an open question. There are as many ways almost of -boiling rice as dressing a salad, and each one thinks his own way the best. -We will mention a few of the most simple, and will illustrate it by boiling -a small quantity that can be contained in a teacup. Of course, boiling -rice is very much simplified if you want some rice-water as well as rice -itself. Rice-water contains a great deal of nourishment, a fact which is -well illustrated by the well-known story of the black troops who served in -India under Clive, who, at the siege of Arcot, told Clive, when they were -short of provisions, that the water in which the rice was boiled would be -sufficient for them, while the more substantial grain could be preserved -for the European troops. Take a teacupful of rice and wash the rice in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Now throw the rice -into boiling water, say a quart; let the rice boil gently till it is -tender, strain off the rice and reserve the rice-water for other purposes. -The time rice will take to boil treated this way would be probably about -twenty minutes, but this time would vary slightly with the quality and size -of the rice. - - * * * * * - -Many years ago we watched a black man boiling rice on board a P. and O. -boat (the _Mizapore_); he proceeded as follows:--He boiled the rice for -about ten minutes, or perhaps a minute or two longer, strained it off in a -sieve, and then washed the rice with cold water, and then put the rice back -in the stew-pan to once more get hot and swell. Of course, this rice was -being boiled for curry, and certainly the result was that each grain was -beautifully separated from every other grain. We do not think, however, -that this method of boiling rice is customary on all the boats of the P. -and O. Company. Of course this method of boiling rice was somewhat -wasteful. - -By far the most economical method of boiling rice is as follows; and we -would recommend it to all who are in the habit of practising economy on the -grounds of either duty or necessity. Wash thoroughly, as before, a -teacupful of rice and put it in a small stew-pan or saucepan with two -breakfastcupfuls of water, bring this to a boil and let it boil for ten -minutes, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and let the rice -soak and swell for about twenty minutes. After a little time, you can put -a cloth on the top of the saucepan to absorb the steam, similar to the way -you treat potatoes after having strained off the water. - -In boiling rice we must remember that there are two ways in which rice is -served. One is as a meal in itself, the other as an accompaniment to some -other kind of food. It will be found in Italy and Turkey and in the East -generally, where rice forms, so to speak, the staff of life, that it is not -cooked so soft and tender as it is in England, where it is generally served -with something else. In fact, each grain of rice may be said to resemble -an Irish potato, inasmuch as it has a heart in it. In Ireland potatoes, as -a rule, are not cooked so much as they are in most parts of England. -Probably the reason of this is, in most cases, that experience has taught -people that there is more stay in rice and potatoes when served in a state -that English people would call "under-done." There is no doubt that the -waste throughout the length and breadth of this prosperous land through -over-cooking is something appalling. - -Another very good method of boiling rice is the American style. Take a -good-sized stew-pan or saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. Put a cloth -over the saucepan, after first pouring in, say, a pint of water; push down -the cloth, keeping it tight, so as to make a well, but do not let the cloth -reach the water; wash the rice as before, and put on the lid tight. Of -course, with the cloth the lid will fit very tight indeed. Now put the -saucepan on the fire and make the water boil continuously. By these means -you steam the rice till it is tender and lose none of the nourishment. We -can always learn from America. - - -RISOTTO A LA MILANNAISE.--Take a teacupful of rice, wash it thoroughly and -dry it. Chop up a small onion and put it in the bottom of a small stew-pan -and fry the onion to a light-brown colour. Now add the dry rice, and stir -this up with the onion and butter till the rice also is fried of a nice -light-brown colour. Now add two breakfastcupfuls of stock or water and a -pinch of powdered saffron, about sufficient to cover a threepenny-piece; -let the rice boil for ten or eleven minutes, move the saucepan to the side -of the fire and let it stand for twenty minutes or half an hour till it has -absorbed all the stock or water. Now mix in a couple of tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese. Flavour with a little pepper and salt, and serve -the whole very hot. - - -RICE WITH CABBAGE AND CHEESE.--Wash some rice and let it soak in some hot -water, with a cabbage sliced up, for about an hour; then strain it off and -put the rice and cabbage in a stew-pan with some butter, a little pepper -and salt, and about a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Toss these about in the -butter for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour over the fire, but do not -let them turn colour; then add a small quantity of water or stock, let it -stew till it is tender, and then serve it very hot with some grated cheese -sprinkled over the top. - -N.B.--The end of cheese rind can be utilised with this dish. - - -RICE WITH CHEESE.--Wash some rice and then boil it for ten or eleven -minutes in some milk, and let it stand till it has soaked up all the milk. -The proportion generally is, as we have said before, a teacupful of rice to -two breakfastcupfuls of milk; but as we shall want the rice rather moist on -the present occasion, we must allow a little more milk. Now mix in some -grated cheese and a little pepper and salt, place the mixture in a -pie-dish, and cover the top with grated cheese, and place the pie-dish in -the oven and bake till the top is nicely browned, and then serve. - -Some cooks add a good spoonful of made mustard to the mixture. Some -persons prefer it and some don't; it is therefore best to serve some made -mustard with the rice and cheese at table. Unless the mixture was fairly -moist before it was put into the pie-dish, it would dry up in the oven and -become uneatable. - - -RICE, CURRIED.--Boil a teacupful of well-washed rice in two -breakfastcupfuls of water, and let the rice absorb all the water; put a -cloth in the saucepan, and stir up the rice occasionally with a fork till -the grains become dry and separate easily the one from the other. Now mix -it up with some curry sauce, make the whole hot, and send it to table with -a few whole bay-leaves mixed in with the rice. Only sufficient curry sauce -should be added to moisten the rice--it must not be rice swimming in gravy; -or you can make a well in the middle of the boiled rice and pour the curry -sauce into this. - - -RICE BORDERS (CASSEROLES).--Casseroles, or rice borders, form a very -handsome dish. It consists of a large border made of rice, the outside of -which can be ornamented and the centre of which can be filled with a -macedoine (_i.e._, a mixture) of fruit or vegetables. As you are probably -aware, grocers have in their shop-windows small tins with copper labels, on -which the word is printed "Macedoine." This tin contains a mixture of -cut-up, cooked vegetables. These are very useful to have in the house, as -a nice dish can be served at a few moments' notice. Mixed fruits are also -sold in bottles under the name of Macedoine of Fruits. Of course, both -vegetables and fruit can be prepared at home much cheaper from fresh fruit -and vegetables, but this requires time and forethought. These mixtures are -very much improved in appearance when served in a handsomely made rice -border, and as the border is eaten with the vegetables and fruit there is -no want of economy in the recipe. Suppose we are going to make a rice -border. Take a pound of rice and wash it carefully if we are going to fill -it with fruit we must boil it in sweetened milk, but if we are going to -fill it with vegetables we must boil it in vegetable stock or water. Add, -as the case may be, sufficient liquid to boil the rice till it is -thoroughly tender and soft. Now place it in a large bowl, and with a -wooden spoon mash it till it becomes a sort of firm, compact paste; then -take it out and roll it into the shape of a cannon-ball, and having done -this, flatten it till it becomes of the shape of the cheeses one meets with -in Holland--flat top and bottom, with rounded edges. You can now ornament -the outside by making it resemble a fluted mould of jelly. The best way of -doing this is to cut a carrot in half and scoop out part of the inside with -a cheese-scoop, so that the width of the part where it is scooped is about -the same as the two flat sides. Make the outside of the rice perfectly -smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Butter the carrot mould to prevent -it sticking, and press this gently on the outside of the shape of rice till -it resembles the outside of a column in Gothic architecture, then place it -in the oven and let it bake till it is firm and dry. Then scoop out the -centre and put it back for a short time. If the border is going to be used -for a macedoine of vegetables, beat up a yolk of egg and paint the outside -of the casserole with this, and then it will bake a nice golden-brown -colour. Now take it out of the oven and fill it accordingly. It can be -served hot or cold, or it can be filled with a German salad. (_See_ -MACEDOINE OF FRUIT; MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES; SALAD, GERMAN.) - - -RICE CROQUETTES, SAVOURY.--Boil a teacupful of rice in some stock or water -(about two breakfastcupfuls), till it is tender, and until the rice has -absorbed all the water or stock. Chop up a small onion very fine, fry it -till tender in a very little butter, but do not let it brown; add a small -teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs, a brimming teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, to the contents of the frying-pan for two or three minutes, and -then add them to the rice. Mix it well together, and let the rice dry in -the oven till the mixture is capable of being rolled into balls. Now take -two eggs, separate the yolk from the white of one, beat up the whole egg -and one white thoroughly in a basin, but do no beat it to a froth; add the -rice mixture to this, mix it again very thoroughly, and then roll it into -balls about the size of a small walnut, seasoning the mixture with -sufficient pepper and salt. Roll these balls in flour, in order to insure -the outside being dry, and roll them backwards and forwards on the sieve in -order to get rid of the superfluous flour. Make some very fine -bread-crumbs from some stale bread; next beat up the yolk of egg with about -a dessertspoonful of warm water. Dip the rice-balls into this, and then -cover them with the bread-crumbs. Let them stand for an hour or two for -the bread-crumbs to get dry, and then fry them a light golden-brown colour -in a little oil. Fried parsley can be served with them. - -Instead of bread-crumbs you can use up broken vermicelli--the bottom of a -jar of vermicelli can sometimes be utilised this way. This has a very -pretty appearance. The vermicelli browns quickly, and the croquettes have -the appearance of little balls covered in brown network. - - -RICE, SAVOURY.--There are several ways of serving savoury rice. The rice -can be boiled in some stock, strongly flavoured with onion and celery, and -when cooked sufficiently tender one or two eggs can be beaten up with it, -pepper and salt added, and the mixture served with grated cheese. - -Rice can also be rendered savoury by the addition of chopped mushrooms, -pepper and salt, and a little butter, and if a tin of mushrooms is used, -the liquor in the tin should be added to the boiled rice, but in every case -the rice should be made to absorb the liquor in which it is boiled. Eggs -can again be added, as well as grated Parmesan cheese. - -A cheap and quick way of making rice savoury is to mix it with a large -tablespoonful of chutney; make it hot with a little butter, and add -pepper--cayenne if preferred--and a little lemon-juice. - -Rice can also be served as savoury by boiling it in any of the sauces that -may be termed savoury in distinction to those that are sweet, given in the -chapter entitled "Sauces." - - -RICE AND EGGS.--Boil, say half a pound of rice, and let it absorb the water -in which it is boiled. Take four hard-boiled eggs, separate the yolks from -the whites, chop the whites very fine, and add them to the rice with about -a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley and sufficient savoury -herbs to cover a sixpence. Put this in the saucepan and make it hot, with -a little butter, and flavour with plenty of pepper and salt. In the -meantime beat the yellow hard-boiled yolks to a yellow powder, turn out the -rice mixture, when thoroughly hot, into a vegetable dish, and put the -yellow powder either in the centre or make a ring of the yellow powder -round the edge of the rice, and serve a little pile of fried parsley in the -middle. - - -RICE AND TOMATO.--Take half-a-dozen ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the pips, -and put them in a tin in the oven with a little butter to bake; baste them -occasionally with a little butter. In the meantime boil half a pound of -rice in a little stock or water, only adding sufficient so that the rice -can absorb the liquid. When this is done (and this will take about the -same time as the tomatoes take to bake), pour all the liquid and butter in -the tin on to the rice and stir it well up with some pepper and salt. Put -this on a dish, and serve the tomatoes on the rice with the red, unbroken -side uppermost. - - -MACARONI.--Macaroni is a preparation of pure wheaten flour. It is chiefly -made in Italy, though a good deal is made in Geneva and Switzerland. The -best macaroni is made in the neighbourhood of Naples. The wheat that grows -there ripens quickly under the pure blue sky and hot sun, and consequently -the outside of the wheat is browner while the inside of the wheat is whiter -than that grown in England. The wheat is ground and sifted repeatedly. It -is generally sifted about five times, and the pure snow-white flour that -falls from the last sifting is made into macaroni. It is first mixed with -water and made into a sort of dough, the dough being kneaded in the truly -orthodox Eastern style by being trodden out with the feet. It is then -forced by a sort of rough machinery through holes, partially baked during -the process, and then hung up to dry. Macaroni contains a great amount of -nourishment, and it is only made from the purest and finest flour. It is -the staple dish throughout Italy, and in whatever form or way it is cooked, -except as a sweet, tomatoes and grated Parmesan cheese seem bound to -accompany it. - - -SPARGHETTI.--Sparghetti is a peculiar form of macaroni. Ordinary macaroni -is made in the form of long tubes, and when macaroni pudding is served in -schools, it is often irreverently nicknamed by the boys gas-pipes. -Sparghetti is not a tube, but simply macaroni made in the shape of ordinary -wax-tapers, which it resembles very much in appearance. In Italy it is -often customary to commence dinner with a dish of sparghetti, and should -the dinner consist as well of soup, fish, entree, salad, and sweet, the -sparghetti would be served before the soup. Take, say, half a pound of -sparghetti, wash it in cold water, and throw it instantly into boiling -salted water; boil it till it is tender, about twenty minutes, drain it, -put it into a hot vegetable-dish, and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese; toss it about lightly with a couple of forks, till -the cheese melts and forms what may be called cobwebs on tossing it about. -Add also two tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve (sold by all grocers, in -bottles), and serve immediately. This is very cheap, very satisfying, and -very nourishing; and it is to be regretted that this popular dish is not -more often used by those who are not vegetarians, who would benefit both in -pocket and in health were they to lessen their butcher's bill by at any -rate commencing dinner, like the Italians, with a dish of sparghetti. - - -MACARONI--ITALIAN FASHION.--This is very similar to sparghetti, only -ordinary pipe macaroni is used. Take, say, a teacupful of macaroni, wash -it, break it up into two-inch pieces, and throw it into boiling water that -has been salted. Strain it of off, put it in the stew-pan for a few -minutes, with a little piece of butter and some pepper and salt. Add a -tablespoonful of tomato conserve, and serve it with some grated Parmesan -cheese, served separate in a dish. - -Some rub the stew-pan with a head of garlic. This gives it what may be -called a more foreign flavour, but this should not be done unless you know -your guests like garlic. Unfortunately, the proper use of garlic is very -little understood in this country. - -MACARONI CHEESE.--Some years back this was almost the only form in which -macaroni was served in this country. Macaroni cheese used to be served at -the finish of dinner in a dried-up state, and was perhaps one of the most -indigestible dishes which the skill, or want of skill, of our English cooks -was able to produce. Wash and then boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni -in a little milk till it is quite tender, then put into a well-buttered -oval tin a layer of macaroni, and cover this with a layer of bread-crumbs, -mixed with grated cheese, and add a few little lumps of butter; then put -another layer of macaroni and another layer of bread-crumbs and cheese. -Continue alternate layers till you pile up the dish, taking care to have a -layer of dried bread-crumbs at the top. Warm some butter, but do not oil -it, and pour some of this warm butter over the top of the dish to moisten -them; put the dish in the oven till it is hot through, then take it out and -brown the top quickly with a red-hot salamander. If you leave the macaroni -cheese in the oven too long the dish will taste oily and the cheese get so -hard as to become absolutely indigestible. Any kind of grated cheese will -do for this dish, but to the English palate it is best when made from a -moist cheese similar to that which would be used in making Welsh rabbit. - - -MACARONI AND EGGS.--Take half a pound of macaroni and throw it into boiling -water that has been salted. In the meantime have ready four hard-boiled -eggs. When the macaroni is nearly tender throw the hard-boiled eggs into -cold water for a minute, in order to enable you to take off the shells -without burning your fingers. Cut the eggs in half, take out the half -yellow yolk without breaking it; cut the whites of the eggs into rings and -mix these rings with the macaroni on the dish. The macaroni and eggs must -be flavoured with pepper and salt, and if possible pour a little white -sauce over the whole. If you have no white sauce add a little cream or a -little thickened milk with a little butter dissolved in it; now sprinkle a -little chopped blanched parsley over the whole and ornament the dish with -the eight half-yolks. - - -MACARONI A LA REINE.--Boil half a pound of pipe macaroni. Meanwhile warm -slowly in a saucepan three-quarters of a pint of cream, and slice into it -half a pound of Stilton or other white cheese, add two ounces of good fresh -butter, two blades of mace, pounded, a good pinch of cayenne and a little -salt. Stir until the cheese is melted and the whole is free from lumps, -when put in the macaroni and move it gently round the pan until mixed and -hot, or put the macaroni on a hot dish and pour the sauce over. It may be -covered with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour and browned in a Dutch -oven. - - -MACARONI AU GRATIN.--Break up a pound of macaroni in three-inch lengths, -boil as usual and drain. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and Gruyere cheese mixed, -and about a quarter of a pint of some good sauce, white sauce. Move the -stew-pan and its contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the -butter, etc., then turn it out on a dish, which should be garnished with -croutons of fried bread. Pile it in the shape of a dome, cover with -bread-raspings, a little clarified butter run through a colander, and brown -very lightly with a salamander. - -N.B.--The above two recipes are taken from "Cassell's Dictionary of -Cookery." - - -MACARONI AS AN ORNAMENT.--Macaroni is sometimes used to ornament the -outside of puddings, either savoury or sweet. Suppose the pudding has to -be made in a small round mould or basin. Some pipe macaroni is boiled in -water till it is tender, and then cut up into little pieces a quarter of an -inch in length. The inside of the mould is first thickly buttered, and -then these little quarter-inch tubes are stuck in the butter close -together; the pudding, for instance a custard pudding, is then poured into -the mould and the mould steamed. When the pudding is turned out the -outside of the pudding has the appearance of a honey-comb, and looks -extremely pretty. The process is not difficult, but rather troublesome, as -it requires time and patience. - - -MACARONI, TIMBALE OF--This is a somewhat expensive dish. You have first to -decorate a plain mould with what is called _nouilles_ paste, which is made -by mixing half a pound of flour with five yolks of eggs. The mould is then -lined with ordinary short paste, made with half a pound of flour, a quarter -of a pound of butter, and one yolk of egg, mixed in the ordinary way. When -the mould is lined, you have to fill it up with flour, and bake it in a -moderate oven for about an hour. You then take it out, empty out the flour -and brush it well out with an ordinary brush and dry the mould in a very -slack oven. The mould is then filled with some macaroni that has been -boiled tender in milk and flavoured with vanilla and sugar and Parmesan -cheese. The macaroni must be so managed that it absorbs the moisture. The -mould is filled, made hot, and then turned out. It is customary to shake -some powdered sugar over the mould, and then glaze it with a red-hot -salamander. - -N.B.--Very few kitchens possess a proper salamander, but if you make the -kitchen shovel red-hot it will be found to answer the same purpose. - - -MACARONI IN SCOLLOP SHELLS.--Take half a pound of macaroni, wash it, and -throw it into boiling water. Take the macaroni out, drain it, and throw it -into cold water. Then take it out and cut it into pieces not more than -half an inch in length. Take about a quarter of a pound of butter, melt it -in a stew-pan, and add about a cupful of milk, or still better, cream. -Stir it and dredge in enough flour to make it thick, or still better, -thicken it with a little white roux; now add some pepper and salt, about a -quarter of a grated nutmeg, two or three spoonfuls of grated Parmesan -cheese; add the cut-up macaroni and stir the whole well up over the fire -together and fill the scollop shells with the mixture, and throw some -grated cheese over the top. Bake the scollops in the oven till the cheese -begins to brown; then pour a little oiled butter over the top of the -cheese. If made with cream this dish is somewhat rich, but forms an -admirable meal eaten with plenty of bread. - - -MACARONI NUDELS.--The word nudel is probably derived from French _nouilles_ -paste. It is made in a similar manner, or nearly so. French cooks use -only yolk of egg and flour. English cooks use beaten-up eggs, and -sometimes even reserve the yolks for other purposes and make the paste with -white of egg. In any case, the yolks, the whole eggs, or the white without -the yolks, must be well beaten up and then mixed in with the flour with the -fingers till it makes a stiff paste. This paste or dough is then rolled -out with a straight rolling pin--(not an English one)--till it is as thin -as a wafer. The board must be well floured or it will stick. A marble -slab is best, and if you are at a loss for a rolling-pin try an empty black -bottle. It is very important to roll the pastry thin, and it has been well -observed that the best test of thinness is to be able to read a book -through the paste. When rolled out, let each thin cake dry for five or ten -minutes. If you have a box of cutters you can cut this paste into all -sorts of shapes according to the shape of the cutters, or you can cut each -thin cake into pieces about the same size, and then with a sharp dry knife -cut the paste into threads. These threads or ornamental shapes can be -thrown into boiling clear soup, when they will separate of their own -accord. Nudel paste is, in fact, home-made Italian paste, or, when cut -into threads, home-made vermicelli. It is very nourishing, as it is made -with eggs and flour. - - -MACARONI, SAVOURY.--Take half a pound of macaroni and boil it in some -slightly salted water, and let it boil and simmer till the macaroni is -tender and absorbs all the water in which it is boiled. Now take a -dessertspoonful of raw mustard, _i.e._, mustard in the yellow powder. Mix -this gradually with the macaroni, and add five or six tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese and a little cayenne or white pepper according to -taste. Turn the mixture out on to a dish, sprinkle some more grated -Parmesan cheese over the top, bake it in the oven till it is slightly -brown, pour a little oiled butter on the top, and serve. - - -MACARONI AND CHESTNUTS.--Bake about twenty chestnuts till they are tender, -and then peel them and pound them in a mortar, with a little pepper and -salt and butter, till they are a paste. Next wash and boil in the ordinary -way half a pound of macaroni. Drain off the macaroni and put it in a -stew-pan with the chestnuts and about a couple of ounces of butter to -moisten it, and stir it all together and put an onion in to flavour it as -if you were making bread sauce; but the onion must be taken out whole -before it is served. If the mixture gets too dry, it can be moistened with -a little milk or stock. After it has been stirred together for about a -quarter of an hour, turn it out on to a dish, cover it with a little -Parmesan cheese, bake in the oven till it is brown, and moisten the top -when browned with a little oiled butter. - - -MACARONI AND TOMATOES.--Take half a pound of macaroni; wash it and boil it -until it is tender. In the meantime take half a dozen or more ripe -tomatoes; cut off the stalks, squeeze out the pips, and place them in a tin -in the oven with a little butter to prevent their sticking. It is as well -to baste the tomatoes once or twice with the butter and the juice that will -come from them. Put the macaroni when tender and well drained off into a -vegetable-dish, pour the contents of the tin, butter and juice, over the -macaroni and add pepper and salt, and toss it lightly together. Now place -the whole tomatoes on the top of the macaroni, round the edge, at equal -distances. It is a great improvement to the appearance of the dish to -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the macaroni. The tomatoes -should be placed with the smooth, red, unbroken side uppermost. - - -Macaroni and Cream.--Boil half a pound of macaroni; cut it up into pieces -about two inches long and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter -and a quarter of a pound of grated cheese, composed of equal parts of -Gruyere and Parmesan cheese. Moisten this with about three tablespoonfuls -of cream. Toss it all lightly together till the cheese makes cobwebs. Add -a little pepper and salt and serve with some fried bread round the edge cut -up into ornamental shapes. Carefully made pieces of toast, cut into -triangles, will do instead of the fried bread. - - -TAGLIATELLI.--Take some flour and water, and with the addition of a little -salt make a paste which can be rolled out quite thin; cut this into shapes -of the breadth of half a finger. Throw them into boiling water and let -them boil a few minutes. Then remove them to cold water; drain them on a -sieve and use them as macaroni; place at the bottom of a dish some butter -and grated cheese, then a layer of _tagliatelli_ seasoned with pepper, -another layer of butter and cheese, and then one of _tagliatelli_, until -the whole is used; pour over it a glass of cream, add a layer of cheese, -and finish like macaroni cheese, browning it in the oven. - - -OATMEAL PORRIDGE.--Of all dishes used by vegetarians there are none more -wholesome, more nourishing, or more useful as an article of everyday diet -for breakfast than oatmeal porridge. When we remember that the Scotch, -who, for both body and brain, rank perhaps first amongst civilised nations, -almost live on this cheap and agreeable form of food, we should take -particular pains in the preparation of a standing dish which is in itself a -strong argument in favour of a vegetarian diet when we look at the results, -both mentally and bodily, that have followed its use North of the Tweed. -The following excellent recipe for the preparation of oatmeal porridge is -taken from a book entitled, "A Year's Cookery," by Phyllis Browne (Cassell -& Co.):--"When there are children in the family it is a good plan, whatever -they may have for breakfast, to let them begin the meal either with oatmeal -porridge or bread-and-milk. Porridge is wholesome and nourishing, and will -help to make them strong and hearty. Even grown-up people frequently enjoy -a small portion of porridge served with treacle and milk. Oatmeal is -either 'coarse,' 'medium,' or 'fine.' Individual taste must determine -which of these three varieties shall be chosen. Scotch people generally -prefer the coarsest kind. The ordinary way of making porridge is the -following--Put as much water as is likely to be required into a saucepan -with a sprinkling of salt, and let the water boil. Half a pint of water -will make a single plateful of porridge. Take a knife (a 'spurtle' is the -proper utensil) in the right hand, and some Scotch, or coarse, oatmeal in -the left hand, and sprinkle the meal in gradually, stirring it briskly all -the time; if any lumps form draw them to the side of the pan and crush them -out. When the porridge is sufficiently thick (the degree of thickness must -be regulated by individual taste), draw the pan back a little, _put on the -lid_, and let the contents simmer gently till wanted; if it can have two -hours' simmering, all the better; but in hundreds of families in Scotland -and the North of England it is served when it has boiled for ten minutes or -a quarter of an hour; less oatmeal is required when it can boil a long -time, because the simmering swells the oatmeal, and so makes it go twice as -far. During the boiling the porridge must be stirred frequently to keep it -from sticking to the saucepan and burning, but each time this is done the -lid must be put on again. When it is done enough it should be poured into -a basin or upon a plate, and served hot with sugar or treacle and milk or -cream. The very best method that can be adopted for making porridge is to -soak the coarse Scotch oatmeal in water for _twelve hours_, or more (if the -porridge is wanted for breakfast it may be put into a pie-dish over night, -and left till morning). As soon as the fire is lighted in the morning it -should be placed on it, stirred occasionally, kept covered, and boiled as -long as possible, although it may be served when it has boiled for twenty -minutes. When thus prepared it will be almost like a delicate jelly, and -acceptable to the most fastidious palate. The proportions for porridge -made in this way are a heaped tablespoonful of coarse oatmeal to a pint of -water. - -"It is scarcely necessary to give directions for making-- - - -"BREAD AND MILK, for everyone knows how this should be done. It may be -said that the preparation has a better appearance if the bread is cut very -small before the boiling milk is poured on it, and also that the addition -of a small pinch of salt takes away the insipidity. Rigid economists -sometimes swell the bread with boiling water, then drain this off and pour -milk in its place. This, however, is almost a pity, for milk is so very -good for children; and though recklessness is seldom to be recommended, a -mother might well be advised to be reckless about the amount of her milk -bill, provided always that the quantity of milk be not wasted, and that the -children have it." - - -MILK PORRIDGE.--Take a tablespoonful of oatmeal and mix it up in a cup with -a little cold milk till it is quite smooth, in a similar way as you would -mix ordinary flour and milk in making batter. Next put a pint of milk on -to boil, and as soon as it boils mix in the oatmeal and milk, and let it -boil for about a quarter of an hour, taking care to keep stirring it the -whole time. The fire should not be too fierce, as the milk is very apt to -burn. Flavour this with either salt or sugar. - - -RICE AND BARLEY PORRIDGE.--Take a quarter of a pound of rice and a quarter -of a pound of Scotch barley and wash them very thoroughly. The most -perfect way of washing barley and rice is to throw them into boiling water, -let them boil for five or ten minutes, and then strain them off. By this -means the dirty outside is dissolved. Next boil the rice and barley gently -for three or four hours, strain them off, and boil them up again in a -little milk for a short time before they are wanted. It will often be -found best to boil the barley for a couple of hours and then add the rice. -A little cream is a very great improvement. The porridge can be flavoured -with pepper and salt, but is very nice with brown sugar, treacle, or jam, -and when cold forms an agreeable accompaniment to stewed fruit. - - -WHOLE-MEAL PORRIDGE.--Boil a quart of water and gradually stir in about -half a pound of whole-meal; let it boil for about a quarter of an hour, and -serve. Cold milk should accompany this porridge. - - -LENTIL PORRIDGE.--To every quart of water add about six tablespoonfuls of -lentil flour; let the whole boil for about a quarter of an hour, and -flavour with pepper and salt. - - -HOMINY.--Take a teacupful of hominy, wash it in several waters and rub it -well between the hands, and throw away the grains that float on the top, -the same as you do with split peas, pour the water off the top, then strain -it off, and put it in a basin with a quart of water, and cover the basin -over with a cloth; put it by to soak overnight, should it be required for -breakfast in the morning. The next day put it in an enamelled stew-pan -with about a teaspoonful of salt, and let it simmer gently over the fire, -taking care that it does not burn. It is best to butter the bottom of the -saucepan, or if you have a small plate that will just go inside you will -find this a great protection. Let it simmer gently for rather more than an -hour. Stir it well up and flavour it with either sugar or salt, and let it -be eaten with cold milk poured on it on the plate, or with a little butter. - - * * * * * - -The hominy should simmer until it absorbs all the water in which it is -boiled. As a rule a good teacupful will absorb a quart. - - -HOMINY, FRIED.--This is made from the remains of cold boiled hominy. When -cold it will be a firm jelly. Cut the cold hominy into slices, flour them, -egg and bread-crumb them, and then plunge them into some smoking hot oil -till they are of a nice bright golden colour. They are very nice eaten -with lemon-juice and sugar, or they can be served with orange marmalade. - - -FRUMENTY.--Take a quarter of a pint of wheat, wash it thoroughly, and let -it soak for twelve hours or more in water. Strain it off and boil it in -some milk till it is tender, but do not let it get pulpy. As soon as it is -tender add a quart of milk, flavoured with a little cinnamon, three ounces -of sugar, three ounces of carefully washed grocer's currants, and let it -boil for a quarter of an hour. Beat up three yolks of eggs in a tureen, -and gradually add the mixture. It must not be added to the eggs in a -boiling state or else they will curdle. A wineglassful of brandy is a -great improvement, but is not absolutely necessary. The wheat takes a long -time to get tender, probably four hours. - - -SAGO PORRIDGE.--Wash the sago in cold water and boil it in some water, -allowing about two tablespoonfuls to every pint; add pepper and salt and -let cold milk be served with the porridge. - - -MILK TOAST.--This is a very useful way of using up stale bread. Toast the -bread a light brown, and if by chance any part gets black scrape it gently -off. Butter the toast slightly, lay the toast on the bottom of a -soup-plate, and pour some boiling milk over it. Very little butter should -be used, and children often prefer a thin layer of marmalade to butter. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -EGGS (SAVOURY) AND OMELETS. - - -EGGS, PLAIN BOILED.--There is an old saying that there is reason in the -roasting of eggs. This certainly applies equally to the more common -process of boiling them. There are few breakfast delicacies more popular -than a new-laid egg. There are few breakfast indelicacies more revolting -than the doubtful egg which makes its appearance from time to time, and -which may be classed under the general heading of "Shop 'uns." It is a sad -and melancholy reflection that these more than doubtful "shop 'uns" were -all _once_ new-laid. It is impossible to draw any hard-and-fast line to -say at what exact period an egg ceases to be fit for boiling. There is an -old tradition, the truth of which we do not endorse, that eggs may arrive -at a period when, though they are not fit to be boiled, fried, poached, or -hard-boiled, they are still good enough for puddings and pastry. There is -no doubt that many good puddings are spoilt because cooks imagine they can -use up doubtful eggs. - -When eggs are more than doubtful, they are often bought up by the smaller -pastry-cooks in cheap and poor neighbourhoods of our large towns, such as -the East-End of London. These eggs are called "spot eggs," and are sold at -thirty and forty a shilling. They utilise them as follows: They hold the -egg up in front of a bright gas-light, when the small black spot can be -clearly seen. This black spot is kept at the lowest point of the egg, -_i.e._, the egg is held so that this black spot is at the bottom. The -upper part of the egg is then broken and poured off, the black spot being -retained. The moment the smallest streak proceeds from this black spot the -pouring-off process is stopped. Of course, the black part is all thrown -away, the stench from it being almost intolerable, containing, as it does, -sulphuretted hydrogen. We mention the fact for what it is worth. It would -be a bold man who tried to lay down any law as to where waste ceases and -the use of wrongful material commences. Everything depends upon the -circumstances of the case in question. We fear there are many thousands, -hundreds of thousands, in this great city of London, whose everyday life -more or less compares with that of a shipwrecked crew. They "fain would -fill their belly with the husks that the swine do eat, but no man gives -unto them." There is this to be said in favour of vegetarian diet--that, -were it universal, grinding poverty would be banished from the earth. We -must not cry out too soon about using what some men call bad material. -Lord Byron, when he was starving after shipwreck, was glad to make a meal -off the paws of his favourite dog, which had been thrown away when the -carcase had been used on a former occasion. - -The simplest way of boiling eggs is to place them at starting in boiling -water, and boil them from three to three and a half to four minutes, -according to whether they are liked very lightly boiled, medium, or -well-set. - -The egg saucepan should be small, so that when the eggs are first plunged -in it takes the water off the boil for a few seconds, otherwise the eggs -are likely to crack. This applies more particularly to French eggs, which -have thin, brittle shells containing an excess of lime, probably due to the -large quantity of chalk which is the distinguishing feature of the soil in -the _Pas de Calais_, which is the chief neighbourhood from which French -eggs are imported. - -_Over a million_ eggs are imported from France to England every day, -notwithstanding the fact that thousands are kept awake by the crying of -their neighbours' fowls. - -There is a strange delusion among Londoners that an egg is not good if it -is milky. This, of course, is never met with in London, for the simple -reason that a milky egg means, as a rule, than it has not been laid more -than a few hours. For this reason eggs literally hot from the nest are not -suitable for making puddings or even omelets. Eggs that have been kept one -or two days will be found to answer better, as they possess more binding -properties. - -There is an old-fashioned idea that the best way to boil an egg is to place -it in the saucepan in cold water, to put the saucepan on the fire, and as -soon as the water boils the egg is done. A very little reflection will -show that this entirely depends upon the size of the saucepan and the -fierceness of the fire. If the saucepan were the size of the egg, the -water would boil before the egg was hot through; on the other hand, no one -could place an egg in the copper on this principle and then light the -copper fire. - -Eggs are best boiled in the dining-room on the fire, or in an ornamental -egg-boiler. By this means we get the eggs _hot_, an occurrence almost -unknown in large hotels and big establishments. - - -EGGS, TO BREAK.--Whenever you break eggs, never mind what quantity, always -break each egg separately into a cup first; see that it is good, and then -throw it into a basin with the rest. One bad egg would spoil fifty. -Supposing you have a dozen or two dozen new-laid eggs just taken from the -nest, it is not an uncommon thing to have one that has been overlooked for -weeks, and which may be a half-hatched mass of putrefaction. - - -EGGS, FRIED.--The first point is to have a clean frying-pan, which is an -article of kitchen furniture very rarely indeed met with in this country. -For frying eggs, and for making omelets, it is essential that the -frying-pan should never be used for other purposes. - -If you think _your_ frying-pan is perfectly clean, warm it in front of the -fire for half a minute, put a clean white cloth over the top of the finger, -and then rub the inside of the frying-pan. - -To fry eggs properly, very little butter will be required; a little -olive-oil will answer the same purpose. If you have too much "fat," the -white of the eggs are apt to develop into big bubbles or blisters. Another -point is, you do not want too fierce a fire. Fry them very slowly. Some -cooks will almost burn the bottom of the egg before the upper part is set. -As soon as the white is set round the edge, you will often find the yolk -not set at all, surrounded by a rim of semi-transparent "albumen." When -this is the case, it is very often a good plan to take the frying-pan off -the fire (we are presuming the stove is a shut-up one), and place it in the -oven for a minute or so, leaving the oven door open. By this means the -heat of the oven will set the upper part of the eggs, and there is no -danger of the bottom part being burnt. - -There is a great art in taking fried eggs out of a frying-pan and serving -them on a dish. Fried eggs, to look nice, should have the yolk in the -centre, surrounded by a ring of white, perfectly round, rather more than an -inch in breadth. - -Take an egg-slice in the left hand, slide it under each egg separately, so -that the yolk gets well into the middle of the slice. Now take a knife in -the right hand and trim off the superfluous white. By this means you will -be able to do it neatly. The part trimmed away is virtually refuse. Of -course, you do not throw away more than is necessary, but take care that -the white rim round the yolk is of uniform breadth. Most cooks take the -egg out with their right hand, and attempt to trim it with the left; the -result is about as neat as what would happen were you to attempt to write a -letter with your left hand in a hurry. - -Very often the appearance of fried eggs is improved by sprinkling over them -a few specks of chopped parsley. - -In placing fried eggs on toast, place the slice over the toast and draw the -slice away. Do not push the egg on; you may break it. - -EGGS, POACHED.--The best kitchen implement to use for poaching eggs is a -good large frying-pan. The mistake is to let the water boil; it should -only just simmer. You should avoid having the white of the egg set too -hard. We should endeavour to have the eggs look as white as possible. In -order to insure this, put a few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice into the -water, break the eggs separately into a clip, and then turn them very -gently into the hot water. When they are set fairly firm take them out -with an egg-slice, using the left hand as before, and trim them with the -right. It is not necessary, in poached eggs, to have a clear yolk -surrounded with a white uniform ring. Poached eggs often look best when -the yolk reposes in a sort of pillow-case of white. Before putting them on -toast or spinach, &c., be very careful to drain off the water; this is -particularly important when the water is acid, especially with vinegar. - -EGGS, HARD-BOILED.--Place the eggs in cold water, bring the water to -boiling point, and let them boil for ten minutes; if the hard-boiled eggs -are wanted hot, put them in cold water for half a minute, in order that you -may remove the shells without burning your fingers. If the eggs are -required cold, it is best not to remove the shells till just before they -are wanted; but if they have to be served cold, similar to what we meet -with at railway refreshment-rooms, let them be served cold, _whole_. If -you cut a hard-boiled egg the yolk very soon gets discoloured and brown -round the edge, shrivels up, and becomes most unappetising in appearance. - - -EGGS, CURRIED.--Take some hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves (remove the -half-yolks), and cut them into rings. Place all these rings round the edge -of the dish, and pile the white rings up to make a sort of border; pour -some thick curry sauce in the middle, place the half-yolks at equal -distances apart, on the white round the edge, and sprinkle a few specks of -green parsley round the edge on the whites; this will give the dish a -pretty appearance. - - -EGGS, DEVILLED.--Take, say, half a dozen eggs, boil them hard, remove the -shells while hot, cut them in halves, scoop out the yolk, and cut a tiny -piece off the bottom of each white cup, so that it will stand upright--a la -Columbus. Next take all the yolks, and put them in a basin, and pound them -with a little butter till you get a thick squash; add some cayenne pepper, -according to taste, a little white pepper, a little salt, and a few drops -of chilli-vinegar or ordinary vinegar; you can also add a little finely -chopped parsley--say a teaspoonful. Fill each cup with some of this -mixture, and as there will be more than enough to fill them, owing to the -butter, bring them to a point, like a cone. Devilled eggs are best served -cold, in which case they look best placed on a silver or ordinary dish, the -bottom of which is covered with green parsley; the white looks best on a -green bed. Some cooks chop up the little bits of white cut off from the -bottom of the cups, divide them into two portions, and colour one half pink -by shaking them in a saucer with a few drops of cochineal. These white and -pink specks are then sprinkled over the parsley. - -N.B.--In an ordinary way devilled eggs require anchovy sauce to be mixed -with the yolks, but anchovy sauce is not allowed in vegetarian cookery. - - -EGGS A LA BONNE FEMME.--Proceed exactly as in making devilled eggs, till -you place the yolks in the basin; then add to these yolks, while hot, a -little dissolved butter, and small pieces of chopped cold boiled carrot, -turnip, celery, and beet-root; season with white pepper and salt, and mix -well together. Add also a suspicion of nutmeg and a little lemon-juice. -Fill the cups with this while the mixture is moist, as when the butter gets -cold the mixture gets firm. If you use chopped beet-root as well as other -vegetables, it is best to fill half the cups with half the mixture before -any beetroot is added, then add the beet-root and stir the mixture well up -and it will turn a bright red. Now fill the remaining half of the cups, -and place them on the dish containing the parsley, alternately. The red -contrasts prettily with the light yellowish white of the first half. Do -not colour the white specks with cochineal, as this is a different shade of -red from the beet-root. You can chop up the white and sprinkle it over the -parsley with a little chopped beet-root as well. - - -EGGS A LA TRIPE.--Small Spanish onions are perhaps best for this dish, but -ordinary onions can be used. Cut the onions cross-ways after peeling them, -so that they fall in rings, and remove the white core. Two Spanish or half -a dozen ordinary onions will be sufficient. Fry these rings of onions in -butter till they are tender, without browning them. Take them out of the -frying-pan and put them aside. Add a spoonful of flour to the frying-pan, -and make a paste with the butter, and then add sufficient milk so that when -it is boiled and stirred up it makes a thick sauce; add pepper and salt, a -little lemon-juice, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Put back the -rings of onions into this, and let them simmer gently. Take half a dozen -hard-boiled eggs, cut the eggs in halves, remove the yolks, and cut the -whites into rings, like the onions, mixing these white egg-rings with the -onions and sauce; make the whole hot and serve on a dish, using the -hard-boiled half-yolks to garnish; sprinkle a little chopped parsley over -the whole, and serve. - - -EGG, FORCEMEAT OF, OR EGG BALLS.--Take three hard-boiled yolks of eggs, -powder them, mix in a raw yolk, add a little pepper and salt, a small -quantity of grated nutmeg, about a saltspoonful of finely chopped parsley, -chopped up with a pinch of savoury herbs, or a pinch of dust from bottled -savoury herbs, sifted from them, may be added instead. Roll these into -balls not bigger than a very small marble, flour them, and throw them into -boiling water till they are set. - -In many parts of the Continent, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, served whole, -are used as egg balls. A much cheaper way of making egg balls is as -follows:--Beat up one egg, add a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, -some pepper and salt, and a very little grated nutmeg. Sift a bottle of -ordinary mixed savoury herbs in a sieve, and take about half a saltspoonful -of the dust and mix this with the egg, This will be found really better -than using the herbs themselves. Now make some very fine bread-crumbs from -_stale_ bread, and mix this with the beaten-up egg till you make a sort of -soft paste or dough; roll this into balls the size of a marble, flour them, -and throw them into boiling water. The balls must be small or they will -split in boiling. - - -EGGS AU GRATIN.--Make about half a pint of butter sauce, make it hot over -the fire, and stir in about two ounces of Parmesan cheese, a quarter of a -nutmeg grated, some white pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Make this -hot, and then add the yolks of four eggs. Stir it all up, and keep -stirring very quickly till the mixture begins to thicken, when you must -instantly remove it from the fire, but continue stirring for another -minute. In the meantime have ready some hard-boiled eggs, cut these into -slices, and make a circle of the bigger slices on a dish; then spread a -layer of the mixture over the slices of egg, and place another layer on -this smaller than the one below, then another layer of mixture, and so on -with alternate layers till you pile it up in the shape of a pyramid. -Spread a layer of the remainder of the mixture over the surface, and -sprinkle some powdered light-coloured bread-raspings mixed with some grated -Parmesan cheese over the whole; place the dish in the oven to get hot and -to slightly brown, and then serve. Some fried bread cut into pretty shapes -can be used to ornament the base. - - -EGGS AND SPINACH.--Make a thick puree of spinach; take some hard-boiled -eggs, cut them in halves while hot, after removing the shells, and press -each half a little way into the puree, so that the yellow yolk will be -shown surrounded by the white ring. Be very careful not to smear the edge -with the spinach. - -N.B.--Sometimes eggs are poached and laid on the spinach whole. - - -EGGS AND TURNIP-TOPS.--Proceed exactly as above, using a puree of -turnip-tops instead of spinach. - - -EGGS AND ASPARAGUS.--Have ready some of the green parts of asparagus, -boiled tender, and cut up into little pieces an eighth of an inch long so -that they look like peas. Beat up four eggs very thoroughly with some -pepper and salt, and mix in the asparagus, only do not break the pieces of -green. Melt a couple of ounces of butter in a small stew-pan, and as soon -as it commences to froth pour in the beaten-up egg and asparagus; stir the -mixture quickly over the fire, being careful to scrape the bottom of the -saucepan. As soon as the mixture thickens pour it on some hot toast, and -serve. - - -EGGS AND CELERY.--Have ready some stewed celery on toast. (_See_ CELERY, -STEWED.) Poach some eggs and place them on the top. Hard-boiled eggs, cut -into slices, can be added to the celery instead of poached eggs. - -When stewed celery is served as a course by itself, the addition of the -eggs and plenty of bread make it a wholesome and satisfying meal. - - -EGG SALAD.--(_See_ SALADS.) - - -EGG SANDWICHES.--(_See_ SANDWICHES.) - - -EGG SAUCE.--(_See_ SAUCES.) - - -EGG TOAST.--Beat up a couple of eggs, melt an ounce of butter in a -saucepan, and add to it a little pepper and salt. As soon as the butter -begins to froth, add the beaten-up egg and stir the mixture very quickly, -and the moment it begins to thicken pour it over a slice of hot buttered -toast. - -EGGS A LA DAUPHINE.--Take ten hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves and -remove the yolks, and place the yolks in a basin with a piece of new bread, -about as big as the fist, that has been soaked in some milk, or better -still, cream; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a quarter of a grated -nutmeg, and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; rub the whole well -together, and then add two whole eggs, well beaten up, to the mixture to -moisten it. Next fill all these white cups of eggs with some of this -mixture, place the eggs well together, and spread a thin layer of the -mixture over the top; then take a smaller number of half-eggs, filled, and -place on the top and make a pyramid, so that a single half-egg is at the -top. You can place ten half-eggs at the bottom in one layer, six half-eggs -on the top of these, spreading a thin layer of the mixture, then three -half-eggs, one more layer of the mixture, and then one half-egg at the -summit. This dish is sometimes ornamented by forcing hard-boiled yolks of -eggs through a wire sieve. It falls like yellow vermicelli into threads. -This dish should be placed in the oven, to be made quite hot, and some kind -of white sauce should be poured round the edge. - - -EGGS AND BLACK BUTTER.--Fry some eggs, serve them up on a hot dish, and -pour some black butter round the base. (_See_ BLACK BUTTER SAUCE.) - - -EGGS AND GARLIC.--This is better adapted for an Italian than an English -palate. Take half a dozen heads of garlic and fry them in a little butter -in order to remove the rankness of flavour. Take them out and pound them -in a mortar with rather more than a tablespoonful of oil; heat this on the -fire in a stew-pan, after adding some pepper and salt. Beat up an egg, and -stir this in with the oil and garlic till the mixture gets thick. Arrange -some slices of hard-boiled eggs--four eggs would be sufficient--pour this -mixture in the centre, and serve. - - -EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS.--Take half a pint of button mushrooms and, if fresh, -peel them and throw them instantly into water made acid with lemon-juice, -in order that they may not turn a bad colour. In the meantime slice up a -good-sized Spanish onion, and fry the onion in a little butter. As soon as -the onion is a little tender, chop up and add the mushrooms. Put all this -into a stew-pan with a little butter sauce, or a little water can be added -and then thickened with a little butter and flour. Let this simmer gently -for nearly half an hour, add a little made mustard, pepper and salt and a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. Before sending to table add half a dozen -hard-boiled eggs; the whites should be cut into rings, and should be only -put into the sauce long enough to get hot; the yolks should be kept -separate, but must be warmed up in the sauce. - - -EGGS AND ONIONS.--Cut up a large Spanish onion in slices, and fry it in -some butter till it is a light brown and tender, but do not let it burn; -drain off the butter and put the fried onion on a dish; sprinkle some -cayenne pepper and a little salt over the onions, and squeeze the juice of -a whole lemon over them. Now poach some eggs and serve them on the top of -the onion. - - -EGGS AND POTATOES.--Take the remains of some floury potatoes, beat up an -egg, and mix the potato flour with the egg. You can also chop up very -finely a small quantity of onion and parsley, and season with plenty of -pepper and salt. The respective quantities of floury potatoes and beaten -egg must be so regulated that you can roll the mixture into balls without -their having any tendency to break. Make the balls big enough so that when -you press them between the hands you can squeeze the ball into the shape of -an ordinary egg, or you can mould them into this shape with a tablespoon. -Now flour these imitation eggs in order to dry the surface, and then dip -them into well-beaten-up egg and cover them with dried bread-crumbs, and -fry them in a little butter or oil, or brown them in the oven, occasionally -basting them with a little butter. - - -EGGS AND SAUCE ROBERT.--Take some hard-boiled eggs, cut them into quarters, -and make them hot in some Sauce Robert--(_see_ ROBERT SAUCE)--and serve -with fried or toasted bread in a dish. - - -EGGS AND SORREL.--Make a thick puree of sorrel--(_see_ SORREL SAUCE)--and -serve some hard-boiled or poached eggs on the top. - - -EGGS, BROILED.--Cut a large slice of crumb of bread off a big loaf; toast -it lightly, put some pieces of butter on it, and put it on a dish in front -of the fire; then break some eggs carefully on to the toast, and let them -set from the heat of the fire like a joint roasting; when the side nearest -the fire gets set, it will be necessary to turn the dish round. When the -whole has set, squeeze the juice of an orange over the eggs, and a little -grated nutmeg may be added. The eggs and toast should be served in the -same dish in which they are baked. - - -EGGS, BUTTERED.--Break some eggs into a flat dish, then take a little -butter and make it hot in a frying-pan till it frizzles and begins to turn -brown. Now pour this very hot butter, which is hotter than boiling water, -over the eggs in the dish. Put the dish in the oven a short time, and -finish off setting the yolks with a red-hot salamander. - - -EGGS, SCRAMBLED.--Scrambled eggs, when finished properly, should have the -appearance of yellow and white streaks, distinct in colour, but yet all -joined together in one mass. Melt a little butter in the frying-pan, break -in some eggs, as if for frying; of course, the whites begin to set before -the yolks. As soon as the whites are nearly but not quite set, stir the -whole together till the whole mass sets. By this means you will get yellow -and white streaks joined together. It is very important that you don't let -the eggs get brown at the bottom; you will therefore require a perfectly -clean frying-pan and not too fierce a fire. - - -EGGS IN SUNSHINE.--This is a name given to fried eggs with tomato served on -the top. You want a dish that will stand the heat; consequently, take an -oval baking-tin, or enamelled dish that you can put on the top of a shut-up -stove. Melt a little butter in this, and as soon as it begins to frizzle -break some eggs into the dish, and let them all set together. As soon as -they are set, pour four or five tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve on the -top; this is much better than tomato sauce, which contains vinegar. Or you -can bake half a dozen ripe tomatoes in a tin in the oven, and place these -on the top instead of the tomato conserve. - - -EGGS AND CUCUMBER.--Peel and slice up two or three little cucumbers of the -size generally sold on a barrow at a penny each. Put these with two or -three ounces of butter in a stew-pan, and three small onions about the size -of the top of the thumb, chopped very fine; fry these and add a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. When the cucumber is tender, and a little time -has been allowed for the vinegar to evaporate, add six hard-boiled eggs, -cut into slices; make these very hot and serve. Pepper and salt must be -added. - - -EGGS WITH CHEESE.--Take a quarter of a pound of grated cheese (the cheese -should be dry and white), melt this cheese gently in a stew-pan over the -fire, with a little bit of butter about as big as the thumb, in order to -assist the cheese in melting. Mix with it a brimming teaspoonful of -chopped parsley, two or three tiny spring onions, chopped very fine, and -about a quarter of a small grated nutmeg. When the cheese is melted, add -six beaten-up eggs, and stir the whole together till they are set. Fried -or toasted bread should be served round the edge of the dish. - - -LITTLE EGGS FOR GARNISHING.--This is a nice dish when you require a lot of -white of eggs for other purposes, such as iceing a wedding-cake, or making -light vanilla or almond biscuits. - -Take six hard-boiled yolks, powder them, flavour with a little pepper and -salt, and mix in three raw yolks; mix this well together, and roll them -into shapes like very small sausages, pointed at each end like a foreign -cigar. Flour these on the outside, and throw them into boiling water. -These can be used for garnishing purposes for the vast majority of -vegetarian dishes. They can be flavoured if wished with grated nutmeg, -chopped parsley, and a few savoury herbs. - - -OMELETS.--It is a strange fact, but not the less true, that to get a -well-made omelet in a private house in this country is the exception and -not the rule. A few general remarks on making omelets will, we hope, not -be out of place in writing a book on an exceptional style of cookery, in -which omelets should play a most important part. - -First of all, we require an omelet-pan, and for this purpose the cheaper -the frying-pan the better. The best omelet-pan of all is a copper one, -tinned inside. Copper conveys heat quicker than almost any other metal; -consequently, if we use an ordinary frying-pan, the thinner it is the -quicker will heat be conveyed. - -It is very essential that the frying-pan be absolutely clean, and it will -be found almost essential to reserve the omelet-pan for omelets only. A -frying-pan that has cooked meat should not be used for the purpose; and -although in vegetarian cookery a frying-pan has not been used in this -manner, we should still avoid one in which onions or vegetables, or even -black butter has been made. The inside of an omelet-pan should always look -as if it had only just left the ironmonger's shop. - -The next great question is, how much butter should be allowed for, say, six -eggs? On this point the greatest authorities differ. We will first quote -our authorities, and then attempt to give an explanation that reconciles -the difference. A plain omelet may be roughly described as settings of -eggs well beaten up by stirring them up in hot butter. One of the oldest -cookery books we can call to mind is entitled "The Experienced English -Housekeeper," by Elizabeth Raffald. The book, which was published in 1775, -is dedicated to the Hon. Lady Elizabeth Warburton, whom the authoress -formerly served. as housekeeper. The recipe is entitled "To make an -amulet." The book states, "Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a -frying-pan, break six eggs"; Francatelli also gives four ounces of butter -to six eggs. - -On the other hand, Soyer, the great cook, gives two ounces of butter to six -eggs; so also does the equally great Louis Eustache Ude, cook to Louis XVI. - -We may add that "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery" recommended two ounces of -butter to six eggs, whilst "Cassell's Shilling Cookery" recommends four -eggs. - -The probable reason why two such undoubtedly great authorities as Soyer and -Francatelli should differ is that in making one kind of omelet you would -use less butter than in making another. Francatelli wrote for what may be -described as that "high class cooking suited for Pall Mall clubs," where no -one better than himself knew how best to raise the jaded appetite of a -wealthy epicure. Soyer's book was written for the people. - -There are two kinds of omelets, one in which the egg is scarcely beaten at -all, and in which, when cooked, the egg appears set in long streaks. There -is also the richer omelet, which is sent to table more resembling a light -pudding. For the former of these omelets, two ounces of butter will -suffice for six eggs; for the latter of these you will require four ounces -of butter, or else the omelet will be leathery. In Holland, Belgium, and -Germany, and in country villages in France, the omelet is made, as a rule, -with six eggs to two ounces of butter. It comes up like eggs that have -been set. In the higher-class restaurants in Paris, like Bignon's, or the -Cafe Anglais, the omelet is lighter, and probably about four ounces of -butter would be used to six eggs. - -This probably explains the different directions given in various cookery -books for making omelets. - - -OMELET, PLAIN.--Melt _four_ ounces of butter in a frying-pan, heat up six -eggs _till they froth_; add a little pepper and salt, pour the beaten-up -eggs into the frying-pan as soon as the butter begins to frizzle, and with -a tablespoon keep scraping the bottom of the frying-pan in every part, not -forgetting the edge. Gradually the mixture becomes lumpy; still go on -scraping till about two-thirds or more are lumpy and the rest liquid. Now -slacken the heat slightly by lifting the frying-pan from the fire, and push -the omelet into half the frying-pan so that it is in the shape of a -semicircle. By this time, probably, it will be nearly set. Take the -frying-pan off the fire, and hold it in a slanting direction in front of -the fire. When the whole is set, as it will quickly do, slide off the -omelet from the frying-pan on to a hot dish with an egg-slice, and serve. - - -OMELET, PLAIN (ANOTHER WAY).--Put _two_ ounces of butter into a frying-pan, -break six eggs into a basin with a little pepper and salt, _and beat them -very slightly_, so that the yolks and whites are quite mixed into one, but -do not beat them more than you can help, and _do not let the eggs froth_. -As soon as the butter frizzles, pour in the beaten eggs, scrape the -frying-pan quickly with a spoon in every part till the mixture gets lumpy. -Now slacken the heat if the fire is fierce, and let the mixture set in the -frying-pan like a pancake. As soon as it is nearly set, with perhaps only -a dessertspoonful of liquid left unset, turn the omelet over, one half on -to the other half, in the shape of a semicircle, and bring the spoonful of -unset fluid to join them over the edge. Slide off the omelet on to a hot -dish with an egg-slice. - - -OMELET WITH FINE HERBS.--Chop up a dessertspoonful of parsley, and add a -good pinch of powdered savoury herbs, add these with pepper and salt to the -six beaten-up eggs in a basin. Beat up the eggs, either slightly or very -thoroughly, according to whether you use two ounces of butter or four. -Proceed in every respect, in making the omelet, as directed for plain -omelet above. - - -OMELET WITH ONION.--Proceed exactly as in the above recipe, only adding to -the chopped parsley a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of -the thumb down to the first joint, also very finely chopped. When onion is -used in making an omelet a little extra pepper should be added. - - -OMELET WITH CHEESE.--Proceed as if making an ordinary omelet, with four -ounces of butter. Add to the six well beaten-up eggs about four ounces of -grated Parmesan cheese; a small quantity of cream will be found a great -improvement to this omelet. A little pepper and salt must, of course, be -added as well. - - -POTATO OMELET.--Mix three ounces of a floury potato with six eggs, a little -pepper and salt, and half a pint of milk, and make the milk boil and then -stand for a couple of minutes before it is mixed with the eggs; pour this -mixture into three or four ounces of butter, and proceed as in making an -ordinary omelet. - - -POTATO OMELET, SWEET.--Proceed exactly as above, only instead of adding -pepper and salt mix in a brimming tablespoonful of finely powdered sugar, -the juice of a lemon, with half a grated nutmeg. - - -CHEESE SOUFFLE.--To make a small cheese souffle in a round cake-tin, -proceed as follows:--Make the tin very hot in the oven. Put in about an -ounce of butter, so as to make the tin oily in every part inside. The tin -must be tilted so that the butter pours round the sides of the tin as well -as the bottom. Take two eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, and beat -the whites to a stiff froth; beat up the two yolks very thoroughly with a -quarter of a pint of milk. Add to this two tablespoonfuls of grated -Parmesan cheese; add this mixture to the beaten-up whites, and mix the -whole carefully together. Now pour this mixture into the hot buttered tin, -which should be five or six inches deep, and bake it in the oven. The -mixture will rise to five or six times its original depth. As soon as it -is done, run with the souffle from the oven door to the dining-room door. -However quick you may be, the souffle will probably sink an inch on the -way. Some cooks wrap hot flannel on the outside of the tin to keep up the -heat. If you have a folded dinner napkin round the tin for appearance -sake, as is usually the case, fold the napkin before you make the souffle, -and make the napkin sufficiently big round that it can be dropped over the -tin in an instant. The napkin should be pinned, and be quite half an inch -in diameter bigger than the width of the tin. This is to save time. Delay -in serving the souffle is fatal. - - -OMELET SOUFFLE, SWEET.--In making an omelet souffle, sweet, you can proceed -in exactly the same manner as making a cheese souffle, with the exception -that you add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar instead of two -tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. The omelet will, however, require -flavouring of some kind, the two most delicate being vanilla and -orange-flower water. You can flavour it with lemon by rubbing a few lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon, and then pounding this with the -powdered sugar. It must be pounded very thoroughly and mixed very -carefully, or else one part of the omelet will taste stronger of lemon than -the other. Some powdered sugar should be shaken over the top of the -souffle just before serving. - - -OMELET SOUFFLE (ANOTHER WAY).--When a souffle is made on a larger scale, -and served up on a flat dish, it is best to proceed as follows:--Take six -ounces of powdered sugar, and mix them with six yolks of eggs and a -dessertspoonful of flour and a pinch of salt. To this must be added -whatever flavouring is used, such as vanilla. This is all mixed together -till it is perfectly smooth. Next beat the six whites to a very stiff -froth; mix this in with the batter lightly, put two ounces of butter into -an omelet-pan, and as soon as the butter begins to frizzle pour in the -mixture. As it begins to set round the edges, turn it over and heap it up -in the middle, and then slide the omelet off on to a plated-edged baking -dish, which must be well buttered. Put it in the oven for about a quarter -of an hour, to let it rise, shake some powdered sugar over the top, and -serve very quickly. - - -OMELET, SWEET.--Make an ordinary plain omelet with six eggs and either two -or four ounces of butter, as directed for making omelet, plain. Instead of -adding pepper and salt to the beaten-up eggs, add one or two tablespoonfuls -of finely powdered sugar. At the last moment, sprinkle a little powdered -sugar over the omelet, and just glaze the sugar with a red-hot salamander. - - -OMELET WITH JAM.--Make a plain sweet omelet as directed above, adding -rather less sugar--about half. If you make the omelet with two ounces of -butter, and turn it over, put a couple of tablespoonfuls of jam on the -omelet, and turn the half over the jam. It is best to put the jam in the -oven for a minute or two to take the chill off. - -If you make the omelet with four ounces of butter, you must put the jam by -the side of the omelet and let the thin part of the omelet cover it. Of -course, the question what jam is best for sweet omelet is purely a matter -of taste. Most good judges consider that apricot jam is the best, and if -the sweet omelet itself be flavoured with a little essence of vanilla, the -result is generally considered one of the nicest sweets that can be sent to -table. Strawberry jam, especially if some of the strawberries are whole, -is also very nice. The objection to raspberry jam is the pips. - -A most delicious omelet can be made by chopping up some preserved slices of -pine-apple, and placing this in the omelet, and making the pine-apple syrup -hot and pouring it round the base. Red-currant jelly, black-currant jam, -and plum jam can all be used. One of the cheapest and, in the opinion of -many, the best sweet omelets can be made with six eggs, two ounces of -butter, and three or four tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade. In this case -it will cost no more to rub a few lumps of sugar on the outside of an -orange, and pound these with the powdered sugar you use to sweeten the -omelet. If the marmalade is liquid, as it often is, one or two -tablespoonfuls of the juice can be poured round the edge of the omelet. - - -OMELET AU RHUM.--As a rule, spirits are not allowed in vegetarian cookery. -An omelet au rhum is simply a sweet omelet, plain, with plenty of powdered -sugar sprinkled over the top, with some rum ignited poured over it just -before it is sent to table. The way to ignite the rum is to fill a large -spoon, like a gravy-spoon, and hold a lighted wooden taper (not wax; it -tastes) underneath the spoon till the rum lights. The dish should be hot. -It may be a consolation to teetotallers to reflect that the fact of burning -the rum causes all the alcohol to evaporate, and there is nothing left but -the flavour. - - -OMELET AU KIRSCH.--Proceed as above, substituting Kirschenwasser for Rum. - - -OMELET, VEGETABLE.--A plain omelet can also be served with any puree of -vegetables, so that we can have--Asparagus Omelet, Artichoke Omelet, French -Bean Omelet, Celery Omelet, Spinach Omelet, Mushroom Omelet, Tomato Omelet, -&c. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -SALADS AND SANDWICHES. - - -SALADS AND SANDWICHES.--Probably the most patriotic Englishman will admit -that, on the subject of salads, we can learn something from the French. -During the last half-century a great improvement has taken place on this -point in this country. Many years ago it was the fashion to dress an -English lettuce, resembling in shape an old umbrella, with a mixture of -brown sugar, milk, mustard, and even anchovy and Worcester sauce, and then -add a few drops of oil, as if it were some dangerous poison, like prussic -acid, not to be tampered with lightly. The old-fashioned lettuces were so -hard and crisp that it was difficult to chew them without making a noise -somewhat similar to walking on a shingly beach. In modern days, however, -we have arrived at a stage of civilisation in which, as a rule, we use soft -French lettuces instead of the hard gingham-shaped vegetables which somehow -or other our grandfathers ate for supper with a whole lobster, seasoned -with about half a pint of vinegar, and then slept none the worse for the -performance. The first point for consideration, if we wish to have a good -salad, is to have the lettuces crisp and dry. Old-fashioned French -cookery-books direct that the lettuce should never be washed. The stalks -should be cut off, the outside leaves removed and thrown away, and the -lettuce itself should then be pulled in pieces with the fingers, and each -piece wiped with a clean cloth. This is not always practicable, but the -principle remains the same. You can wash the lettuce leaves without -bruising them. You can dry them by shaking them up lightly in a large -clean cloth, and you can spread them out and let them get _dry_ an hour or -two before they are dressed. - -Another important point to be borne in mind is that a salad should never be -dressed till just before it is wanted to be eaten. If by chance you put by -the remains of a dressed salad, it is good for nothing the next morning. -Finally, the oil must be pure olive oil of the best quality, and to ensure -this it should bear the name of some well-known firm. A good deal of the -oil sold simply as salad oil, bearing no name, is adulterated, sometimes -with cotton-seed oil. - - -SALAD, FRENCH LETTUCE, PLAIN.--Clean one or more French lettuces (throw -away all the leaves that are decayed or bruised), place these in a -salad-bowl, and, supposing we have sufficient for two persons, dress the -salad as follows:--Put a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of -pepper into a tablespoon. Fill the tablespoon up with oil, stir the pepper -and salt up with a fork, and pour it over the lettuce. Now add another -tablespoonful of oil, and then toss the lettuce leaves lightly together -with a spoon and fork. Allow one tablespoonful of oil to each person. -This salad would suffice for two. Be sure and mix the lettuce and oil well -together before you add any vinegar. The reason of this is that if you add -the vinegar first it would soak into the lettuce leaves, making one part -more acid than another. Having well mixed up the lettuce and oil, add half -a tablespoonful of vinegar. Mix it once more, and the salad is dressed. - -In France they always add to the lettuce, before it is dressed, two or -three finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves. Dried tarragon can be used, -but it is not equal to fresh. If you have no tarragon it is a great -improvement to use tarragon vinegar instead of ordinary vinegar. Tarragon -vinegar is sold by all grocers at sixpence per bottle. - -It is also often customary to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or -rub a piece of crust of bread with garlic, and toss this piece of crust up -with the salad after it has been dressed. Garlic should never be chopped -up, but only used as stated above. - -A good French salad is also always decorated with one or more hard-boiled -eggs, cut into quarters, longways. These are placed on the top of the -lettuce. - - -SALAD, ENGLISH, LETTUCE.--The ordinary English salad is made either with -French or English lettuces, and is generally dressed as follows:--One or -two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, a teaspoonful of made mustard, two -tablespoonfuls of vinegar, pepper, and salt. There are many people still -living in remote parts of the country who prefer this style of dressing. - - -SALAD, ENGLISH, MIXED.--The old-fashioned English _mixed_ salad generally -consisted of English lettuce cut up into strips crossways, to which was -added mustard and cress, boiled beetroot, chopped celery, spring onions, -radishes, and watercress. It is by no means a bad mixture when dressed -with oil, and, of course, it can be dressed it a l'Anglaise. It makes an -excellent accompaniment to a huge hunk of cheese, a crusty loaf, a good -appetite, and a better digestion. - - -SALAD, MAYONNAISE.--This is generally considered the king of salads, and it -can be made an exceedingly pretty-looking dish, Take two or more French -lettuces, clean and dry them as directed above, and take the small heart of -one lettuce about the size of a small walnut, uncut from the stalk, so that -you can stand it upright in the middle of the salad, raised above the -surface. Arrange all the softer parts of the leaves on the top of the -salad so as to make as much as possible a smooth surface. Make some -Mayonnaise sauce, thick enough to be spread like butter, and mask this -little mound and all the surface of the middle of the salad round it with a -thin layer of the sauce, so that it looks like the top of a mould of solid -custard. Ornament the edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in -quarters, and place between the quarters slices of pickled gherkins and -stoned olives. Take a small teaspoonful of French capers, dry them on a -cloth, and sprinkle a few of them about an inch apart on the white surface. -Next chop up, very finely, about half a teaspoonful of parsley, and see -that this doesn't stick together in lumps. Place this on the end of a -knife and flip the knife so that the little green specks of parsley fall on -the white surface. Next take about half a saltspoonful of finely crumbled -bread, and shake these in a saucer with one or two drops of cochineal. -This will colour them a bright red, and they will have all the appearance -of lobster-coral. Place these red bread-crumbs on the end of a knife and -let them fall over the white surface like the parsley. The little red and -green specks on the white background make the dish look exceedingly pretty. -Before mixing the salad all together add a tablespoonful of tarragon -vinegar or lemon-juice. - - -TOMATO SALAD.--For making tomato salad you require red, ripe tomatoes; the -smoother they are the better, but the chief points are--very ripe and very -red. Never use those pink, crinkly tomatoes which look something like milk -stained with plum juice. If tomatoes are picked unripe, and then allowed -to ripen afterwards, they become rotten and worthless. Slice up half a -dozen or more tomatoes--sometimes it will be necessary to remove the core -and pips, sometimes not; add a little oil, a little vinegar, and some -pepper and salt. Tomato salad is one of the few that are very nice without -any oil at all. Of course, this is a matter of taste. Some persons slice -up a few onions and add to the tomatoes. In addition to this you can add -some slices of cold potatoes. In this latter case, heap the potatoes up in -the middle of the dish in the shape of a dome sprinkle some chopped parsley -over the potatoes, put a border of sliced onion round the base, and then a -border of sliced tomato outside that. This makes the dish look pretty. - -Many persons rub the dish or salad-bowl with a bead of garlic. This is -quite sufficient to flavour the salad; but never _chop_ garlic for salads. - - -EGG SALAD.--Egg salad consists of an ordinary salad made with French -lettuces, with an extra quantity of hard-boiled eggs. If you want to make -the salad look very pretty on the top, cut up the lettuces and dress them -with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. Make the tops of the lettuces -(which should be placed in a round salad-bowl) as smooth as you can without -pressing them down unnecessarily. Now take six hard-boiled eggs, separate -the yolks from the whites, powder the yolks, and chop up the whites small. -Sprinkle a ring of yellow round the edge of the salad-bowl, say an inch in -width, then put a ring of white round, and place the remainder of yolk in -the middle, almost up to the centre. Have the centre about two inches in -diameter. We now have a yellow centre surrounded by a broad white rim (as, -of course, there is more white than yellow), and an outside yellow ring, -which meets the white china bowl. Reserve about a teaspoonful of pieces of -finely chopped white, and put them in a saucer, with a few drops of -cochineal, and shake them. This turns them a bright red. Sprinkle these -red specks _very sparingly_ on the white, and take about half a teaspoonful -of chopped blanched parsley, and sprinkle these green specks on the yellow. -This makes the dish look pretty. - - -GERMAN SALAD.--German salad is made from cold boiled vegetables chopped up. -In Germany, it is made, according to English ideas, from every vegetable -you have ever heard of, mixed with a number of vegetables you have never -heard of. In England it can be made by chopping up boiled carrot, turnip, -cabbage, cauliflower, potato, French beans, Brussels sprouts (whole), -celery, raw onion, raw apple, &c. In fact, in making this vegetable salad -the motto should be "the more the merrier." In addition to this you will -find that they add what is known as _sauer kraut_. This latter is not -adapted, as a rule, to English palates. The salad is mixed with oil and -vinegar in the ordinary way, the Germans adding much more vinegar than we -should care for in this country. The salad is decorated at the finish with -boiled beet-root. It is very pretty to cut the beet-root into triangles, -the base of the triangle touching the edge of the salad-bowl, the point of -the triangle pointing inwards. Gut a star out of a good slice of -beet-root, and place it in the centre of the bowl; sprinkle a little -chopped blanched parsley over the surface of the mixed vegetables. - - -ENDIVE SALAD.--Endives come into season long before lettuces, and are much -used abroad for making salads. The drawback to endive is that it is tough, -and the simple remedy is to boil it. Take three or four white-heart -endives, throw them into boiling water slightly salted. When they get -tender take them out and instantly throw them into cold water, by which -means you preserve their colour. When quite cold, take them out again, -drain them, dry them thoroughly, and pull them to pieces with the fingers. -Now place them in a salad-bowl, keeping the whitest part as much as -possible at the top. Place some hard-boiled eggs round the edge, and -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the white endive. You can, -if you like, put a few spikes of red beet-root between the quarters of -eggs. - -It is a great improvement to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or -you can rub a crust of bread with a bead of garlic, and toss this lightly -about in the salad when you mix it. - - -SALSIFY SALAD.--Boiled salsify makes a very delicious salad. Take some -white salsify, scrape it, and instantly throw it into vinegar and water, by -which means you will keep it a pure white. Then, when you have all ready, -throw it into boiling water, slightly salted, boil it till it is tender, -throw it into cold water, and when cold take it out, drain it and dry it, -cut it up into small half-inch pieces (or put it in whole, in sticks, into -a salad-bowl), sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the top, -dress in the ordinary way with oil and white French vinegar, and be sure to -use white pepper, not black, if white wine vinegar is objected to, the -juice of a hard fresh lemon is equally good, if not better. - - -POTATO SALAD.--Potato salad is generally made from the remains of cold -boiled potatoes. Of course, potatoes can be boiled on purpose, in which -case they should be allowed to get cold in the water in which they were -boiled. New potatoes are far better for the purpose than old. Cut the -potatoes into slices, and place them in a salad-bowl with a little finely -chopped blanched parsley. You can also add some finely chopped onion or -shallot. If you do not add these you can rub the bowl with a bead of -garlic. Sprinkle some more chopped parsley over the top of the salad and -ornament the edge of the bowl with some thin slices of pickled gherkins. A -few stoned olives can also be added. Dress the salad with oil and vinegar -in the ordinary way. - - -ASPARAGUS SALAD.--Cold asparagus makes a most delicious salad. It is -needless, perhaps, to say it is made from cold boiled asparagus. The best -dressing for asparagus salad is somewhat peculiar, and is made as -follows:--Take, say, an ounce of butter, put it in a saucer, and melt it in -the oven till it is like oil. Now mix in a teaspoonful of made mustard, -some pepper, salt, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. Stir it all together, -and as it gets cold it will begin to get thick. Dip all the green part of -the asparagus in this, and lay the heads gently, without breaking them, in -a vegetable dish, with the white stalk resting on the edge of the dish, and -the green part in the middle. Let the salad get perfectly cold, and then -serve. Of course, the sauce clings to the asparagus. The asparagus is -eaten with the fingers like hot asparagus--a custom now generally -recognised. - - -ARTICHOKE SALAD.--This applies to French artichokes, not Jerusalem. In -France, artichokes are often served raw for breakfast, on a plate, with a -little heap of chopped raw onion and another heap of chopped capers or -parsley. The Frenchman mixes a little oil or vinegar on his plate, adding -the onion, &c., according to his taste. The leaves are pulled off one by -one, the white stalk part dipped in this dressing, and then eaten, by being -drawn through the teeth. The artichoke bottom is reserved for the finish -as a _bon bouche_, something like a schoolboy who will eat all the pastry -round a jam tart, leaving the centre for the _finale_. - - -BEET-ROOT SALAD.--In boiling beet-roots be careful not to break them, or -else they will bleed and lose their colour. When the beet-root is boiled -and cold, peel it, and cut it into thin slices. It can be dressed with oil -and vinegar, or vinegar only, adding pepper and salt. Some persons dress -beet-root with a salad-dressing in which cream is used instead of oil; but -never use cream _and_ oil. To mix cream and oil is like mixing bacon with -butter. - - -CUCUMBER SALAD.--Peel a cucumber and cut it into slices as thin as -possible. We might almost add, thinner if possible. Mix it with a little -salt, and let it stand, tossing the cucumber about every now and then. By -this means you extract all the water from the cucumber. Drain off this -water, and add plenty of oil to the cucumber, and then mix it so that every -slice comes in contact with the oil. Now add a little pepper, and a very -little vinegar, and mix it thoroughly. If you add vinegar to cucumber -before the oil some of the slices will taste like sour pickle, as the -vinegar soaks into the cucumber. Cucumber should be always served very -cold, and is best placed in an ice-chest for an hour before serving. Some -people put a piece of ice on the top of the cucumber. - - -FRENCH BEAN SALAD.--Cold boiled French beans make a very nice salad. A -little chopped parsley should be mixed with them, and the salad-bowl can be -rubbed with a bead of garlic. Some people soak the beans in vinegar first, -and then add oil. This would suit a German palate. A better plan is to -add the oil first, with pepper and salt, mix all well together, and then -add the vinegar. - - -BEAN SALAD.--Cold boiled broad beans make a very nice salad. Rub off the -skins so that only the green part is put in the salad-bowl. Rub the bowl -with garlic, add a little chopped parsley, then oil, pepper and salt, mix -well, and add vinegar last of all. - - -HARICOT BEAN SALAD.--This can be made from cold, boiled, dried white -haricot beans. Add plenty of chopped parsley, rub the bowl with garlic, -mix oil, pepper and salt first, vinegar afterwards. - - * * * * * - -The nicest haricot bean salad is made from the fresh green beans met with -abroad. They can be obtained in this country in tins, and a delicious -salad can be had at a moment's notice by opening a tin, straining off the -liquor, and drying the little green beans, which are very soft and tender, -and dressing them with oil and vinegar, in the ordinary way. A little -chopped parsley, or garlic flavouring by rubbing the bowl, can be added or -not, according to taste. - - -CELERY AND BEET-ROOT SALAD.--A mixture of celery and beet-root makes a very -nice winter salad. The beet-root, of course, is boiled, and the celery -generally sliced up thin in a raw state. It is a great improvement to boil -the celery till it is _nearly_ tender. By this means you improve the -salad, and the celery assists in making vegetarian stock. - -WATER-CRESS.--Water-cress is sometimes mixed with other salad, but when -eaten alone requires no dressing, but only a little salt. - - -DANDELION LEAF SALAD.--Considering that the root of the dandelion is so -largely used in medicine for making taraxacum, it is to be regretted that -the leaves of the plant are not utilised in this country as they are abroad -for making salad. These leaves can be obtained in London at a few shops in -the French colony of Soho. The leaves are washed, dried, placed in a -salad-bowl, and dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. - -CAULIFLOWER SALAD.--The remains of a cold boiled cauliflower makes a very -good salad if only the white part be used. It can be mixed with remains of -cold potatoes, some chopped blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the -top, and it can be dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way; or it -can be served up with a sauce made from oiled butter similar to that -described for dressing cold asparagus. - - -MUSTARD AND CRESS.--This is somewhat similar to watercress. When served -alone it is generally dipped in salt and eaten with bread-and-butter, but -it is very useful to mix with other kinds of salad. - - -HOP SALAD.--In Germany a very nice salad is made from young hops, which are -grown very extensively in America and Germany, as English brewers are well -aware. The hops are picked when quite young, before they get leafy; they -are then boiled till nearly tender. They can be dressed in the English -fashion with oil and vinegar, or in the German fashion with vinegar and -sugar. - - -ONION SALAD.--Few people are aware of what an excellent salad can be made -from the remains of cold boiled Spanish onions. Spanish onions can -generally be bought at a penny a pound. They are mild in flavour, very -wholesome, and contain a great deal of nourishment. Take a couple of cold -boiled Spanish onions, pull them into leaves after they are quite dry, and -dress them with a very little oil and vinegar. - - -ITALIAN SALAD.--This is a very delicious salad, met with in Italy. It -consists of a great variety of boiled vegetables, which are placed in a -mould and served in aspic jelly. This latter, however, is not allowed in -vegetarian cookery. A very good imitation, however, can be made as -follows:--First take as many cold vegetables as you can, consisting of new -potatoes, sliced, and cut up with a cutter into pretty-looking shapes. You -can also take green peas, asparagus tops, cold boiled cauliflower, French -beans, beet-root, &c. These vegetables should be dressed with a little -oil, tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt, and can be placed in a mould or -plain round basin. This basin can now be filled up with a little water -thickened with corn-flour, hot. When it is cold, it can be turned out and -sent to table in the shape of a mould. - - -MELON SALAD.--Melon is sometimes served abroad as a salad, and a slice of -melon is often sent to table at the commencement of dinner, to be eaten -with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and sometimes oil and vinegar. - - -SALADS, SWEET.--Apples, oranges, currants, pine-apple, and bananas are -sometimes served as salads with syrup and sugar. They make a very nice -mixture, or can be served separately. When preserved pine-apples in tins -are used for the purpose, the syrup in the tin should be used for dressing -the salad. Whole ripe strawberries are a great improvement, as also a -wineglassful of brandy and a lump of ice. - - -SANDWICHES.--There is an art in cutting sandwiches--a fact which persons in -the habit of frequenting railway restaurants will hardly realise. A tinned -loaf is best for the purpose if we wish to avoid waste. The great thing is -to have the two slices of bread to fit together neatly, and there is no -occasion to cut off the crusts when made from a well-rasped tin loaf. -First cut off the crust from the top of the loaf, which, of course, must be -used for some other purpose. The best use for this top slice is to toast -it lightly on the crumby side, and cut it up into little pieces to be -served with soup. Next take the loaf, cut off one thin slice, evenly, and -let it fall on its back on the board you are using. Now butter very -slightly the upper surface. Next butter the top of the loaf, cut another -thin slice, and, of course, these two pieces of bread will be perfectly -level, and, if the two buttered sides be placed together, will fit round -the edge exactly. - - -TOMATO SANDWICHES.--Cut some very ripe red tomatoes into thin slices, and -cut them parallel with the core, as otherwise you will get them in rings -from which the core will drop out. Sprinkle some thin slices of -bread-and-butter with mustard and cress, dip the slices of tomato into a -dressing made with a little oil, pepper, and salt, well mixed up. Put -these between the bread-and-butter, and cut them into squares or triangles -with a very sharp knife. These sandwiches are very cool and refreshing, -and make a most agreeable supper after a hot and crowded ball-room. If you -wish to have them look pretty, pile them up in the centre of a silver dish, -and place a few ripe red tomatoes round the base on some bright green -parsley. Place the dish in an ice-chest for an hour before it is eaten. - - -MUSTARD AND CRESS SANDWICHES.--Place well-washed and dried mustard and -cress between two slices of bread-and-butter, and trim the edges. It is -best to pepper and salt the bread-and-butter first. Pile up the sandwiches -on a silver dish, and sprinkle some loose mustard and cress round the base. - - -EGG SANDWICHES.--Cut some hard-boiled eggs into very thin slices; season -them with pepper and salt, and place them between two slices of thin -bread-and-butter; cut the sandwiches into triangles or squares, pile them -up in a silver dish, place plenty of fresh green parsley round the base of -the dish, and place some hard-boiled eggs, cut in halves, on the parsley, -which will show what the sandwiches are composed of. - - -INDIAN SANDWICHES.--These are exactly similar to the above, with the -addition that the slices of hard-boiled eggs are seasoned with a little -curry-powder. If hard-boiled eggs in halves are placed round the base of -the dish, each half-egg should be sprinkled with curry-powder in order to -show what the sandwiches are. - - -MUSHROOM SANDWICHES.--Take a pint of fresh button mushrooms, peel them, and -throw them into lemon-juice and water, in order to preserve their colour; -or else take the contents of a tin of mushrooms, chop them up and stew them -in a frying-pan very gently with a little butter, pepper, salt, a pinch of -thyme, and the juice of a whole lemon to every pint of mushrooms. When -tender, rub the mixture through a wise sieve while the butter is warm and -the mixture moist. Add a teaspoonful of finely chopped blanched parsley, -spread this mixture while still warm on a thin slice of bread, and cover it -over with another thin slice of bread, and press the two slices of bread -together. When the mixture gets quite cold, the butter will set and the -sandwiches get quite firm. The bread need not be buttered, as the mixture -contains butter enough. Pile these sandwiches up on a silver dish, -surround the dish with plenty of fresh parsley, and place a few fresh -mushrooms whole, stalk and all, round them, as if they are growing out of -the parsley. - - -CHEESE SANDWICHES.--Oil a little butter, add some pepper and salt, and a -spoonful of made mustard and a pinch of cayenne pepper. When this mixture -is nearly cold, use it for buttering some thin slices of bread, and, before -it is quite cold, sprinkle them with some grated Parmesan cheese. Put the -two slices of bread together and press them, and, when cold,. cut them -into squares or triangles. Place plenty of fresh green parsley round the -dish, and, if you are using hard-boiled eggs for other purposes, take the -end of the white of egg, which has a little cup in it not much bigger than -the top of the finger, and put a little heap of Parmesan cheese in each -cup. Place a few of these round the base of the dish, on the parsley, in -order to show what the sandwiches are composed of. - - -CREAM-CHEESE SANDWICHES.--Chop up some of the white part of a head of -celery very fine, and pound it in a mortar with a little butter; season it -with some salt. Use this mixture and butter some thin slices of bread, -place a thin slice of cream cheese between these slices, cut the sandwiches -into squares or triangles with a very sharp knife, and pile the sandwiches -up on a silver dish. Surround the dish with parsley, and place a few -slices of cream-cheese, cut round the size of a halfpenny, round the base, -stick a little piece of the yellowish-white leaves of the heart of celery -in each piece. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -SAVOURY DISHES. - -MUSHROOMS. - - -In many parts of the country mushrooms grow so plentifully that their cost -may be considered almost nothing. On the other hand, if they have to be -bought fresh, at certain seasons of the year they are very expensive, while -tinned mushrooms, which can always be depended upon, cannot be regarded in -any other light than that of a luxury. - -When mushrooms can be gathered in the fields like black-berries they are a -great boon to vegetarians. Of course, great care must be taken that only -genuine mushrooms are picked, as there have been some terrible instances of -poisoning from fungi being gathered by mistake, as many Cockney tourists -know to their cost. As a rule, in England all mushrooms bought in markets -can be depended upon. In France, where mushrooms are very plentiful, an -inspector is appointed in every market, and no mushrooms are allowed to be -sold unless they have first received his sanction. This is a wise -precaution in the right direction. - -One important word of warning before leaving the subject. Mushrooms should -be eaten _freshly gathered_, and, if allowed to get stale, those which were -perfectly wholesome when fresh picked become absolutely poisonous. The -symptoms are somewhat similar to narcotic poisoning. This particularly -applies to the larger and coarser kind that give out black juice. - -MUSHROOMS, PLAIN, GRILLED.--The larger kinds of mushrooms are best for the -purpose. The flat mushrooms should be washed, dried, and peeled. They are -then cooked slowly over a clear fire, and a small wire gridiron, like those -sold at a penny or twopence each, is better adapted for the purpose than -the ordinary gridiron used for grilling steak. The gridiron should be kept -high above the fire. The mushrooms should be dipped in oil, or oiled -butter, and care should be taken that they do not stick to the bars. They -should be served very hot, with pepper and salt and a squeeze of -lemon-juice. - -MUSHROOMS, FRIED.--When mushrooms are very small they are more easily fried -than grilled. They should be washed, dried and peeled, placed in a -frying-pan, with a little butter, pepper and salt, and cooked till tender. -They are very nice served on toast, and the butter in which they are cooked -can be poured on the toast first, and the mushrooms arranged on the top -afterwards. A squeeze of lemon-juice is an improvement. - -MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN.--This is a very delicious dish, and is often served as -an entree at first-class dinners. They are made from what are known as cup -mushrooms. It is best to pick mushrooms, as far as possible, the same -size, the cup being about two inches in diameter. Peel the mushrooms very -carefully, without breaking them, cut out the stalks close down with a -spoon, scoop out the inside of the cup, so as to make it hollow. Now peel -the stalks and chop them up with all the scooped part of the mushroom, -with, supposing we are making ten cups, a piece of onion as big as the top -of the thumb down to the first joint. To this add a brimming teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, or even a little more, a saltspoonful of dried thyme, -or half this quantity of fresh thyme. Fry all this in a frying-pan, in a -little butter. The aroma is delicious. Then add sufficient dried -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve to make the whole -into a moist paste, fill each of the cups with this mixture so that the top -is as convex as the cup of the mushroom, having first seasoned the mixture -with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. Shake some fine -bread-raspings over the top so as to make them of a nice golden-brown -colour, pour a little drop of oil into a baking-tin, place the mushrooms in -it, and bake them gently in an oven till the cup part of the mushroom -becomes soft and tender, but take care they do not cook till they break. -Now take them out carefully with an egg-slice, and place them on a dish--a -silver dish is best for the purpose-and place some nice, crisp, fried -parsley round the edge. - - -MUSHROOMS A LA BORDELAISE.--This, as the name implies, is a French recipe. -It consists of ordinary grilled mushrooms, served in a sauce composed of -oil or oiled butter, chopped up with parsley and garlic, thickened with the -yolks of eggs. - -MUSHROOMS A LA PROVENCALE.--This is an Italian recipe. You must first -wash, peel, and dry the mushrooms, and then soak them for some time in what -is called a _marinade_, which is another word for pickle, of oil mixed with -chopped garlic, pepper, and salt. They are then stewed in oil with plenty -of chopped parsley over rather a brisk fire. Squeeze, a little lemon-juice -over them and serve them in a dish surrounded with a little fried or -toasted bread. - - -MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT.--The mushrooms after being cleaned should be chopped up -and fried in a little butter; lemon-juice should be added before they are -chopped in order to preserve their colour. One or two hard-boiled yolks of -eggs can be added to the mixture, and the whole rubbed through a wire sieve -while hot. When the mixture is hot it should be moist, but, of course, -when it gets cold, owing to the butter it will be hard. This mushroom -forcemeat can be used for a variety of purposes. - - -MUSHROOM PIE.--Wash, dry, and peel some mushrooms, and cut them into slices -with an equal quantity of cut-up potatoes. Bake these in a pie, having -first moistened the potatoes and mushrooms in a little butter. Add pepper -and salt and a small pinch of thyme. Cover them with a little water and -put some paste over the dish in the ordinary way. It is a great -improvement, after the pie is baked, to pour in some essence of mushrooms -made from stewing the stalks and peelings in a little water. A single -onion should be put in with them. - - -MUSHROOM PIE, COLD.--Prepare the mushrooms, potatoes, and essence of -mushroom as directed above, adding a little chopped parsley. Bake all -these in the dish before you cover with paste, add also an extra seasoning -of pepper. When the mushrooms and potatoes are perfectly tender, strain -off all the juice or gravy, and thicken it with corn-flour; put this back -in the pie-dish and mix all well together, and pile it up in the middle of -the dish so that the centre is raised above the edge. Let this get quite -cold, then cover it with puff-paste, and as soon as the pastry is done take -it out of the oven and let the pie get cold. This can now be cut in -slices. - - -MUSHROOM PUDDING.--Make a mixture of mushrooms, potatoes, &c., exactly -similar to that for making a pie. Place this in a basin with only -sufficient water to moisten the ingredients, cover the basin with -bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and steam the basin in the ordinary way. - - -TOMATOES, GRILLED.--What is necessary is a clear fire and a gridiron in -which the bars are not too far apart. The disputed point is, should the -tomatoes be grilled whole or cut in half? This may be considered a matter -of taste, but personally we prefer them grilled whole. Moisten the tomato -in a little oil or oiled butter, and grill them carefully, as they are apt -to break. Grilled tomatoes are very nice with plain boiled macaroni, or -can be served up on boiled rice. - - -TOMATOES, BAKED.--Place the tomatoes in a tin with a little butter, and -occasionally baste them with the butter. When they are tender, they can be -served either plain or with boiled macaroni or rice. The butter and juice -in the tin should be poured over them. - - -TOMATOES, FRIED.--Place the tomatoes in a frying-pan with a little butter, -and fry them until they are tender. Pour the contents of the frying-pan -over them, serve plain, or with macaroni or rice. - - -TOMATOES, STEWED.--Take half a dozen good-sized tomatoes, and chop up very -finely one onion about the same size as the tomatoes. Moisten the bottom -of a stew-pan with a little butter, and sprinkle the chopped onion over the -tomatoes. Add a dessertspoonful of water; place the lid on the stewpan, -which ought to fit tightly. It is best to put a weight on the lid of the -stew-pan, such as a flat-iron. Place the stew-pan on the fire, and let -them steam till they are tender. They are cooked this way in Spain and -Portugal, and very often chopped garlic is used instead of onion. - - -TOMATOES AU GRATIN.--Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut off the stalks, and -squeeze out time juice and pips. Next take a few mushrooms and make a -mixture exactly similar to that which was used to fill the inside of -Mushrooms au gratin. Fill each tomato with some of this mixture, so that -it assumes its original shape and tight skin. The top or hole where the -stalk was cut out will probably be about the size of a shilling or -halfpenny. Shake some bright-coloured bread raspings over this spot -without letting them fall on the red tomato. In order to do this, cut a -round hole the right size in a stiff piece of paper. Place the tomatoes in -a stew-pan or a baking-dish in the oven, moistened with a little oil. The -oil should be about the eighth of an inch deep. Stew or bake the tomatoes -till they are tender, and then take them out carefully with an egg-slice, -and serve them surrounded with fried parsley. If placed in a silver dish -this has a very pretty appearance. - - -TOMATO PIE.--Slice up an equal number of ripe tomatoes and potatoes. Place -them in a pie-dish with enough oiled butter to moisten them. Add a -brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, pepper, and -salts and, if possible, a few peeled mushrooms, which will be found to be a -very great improvement. Cover the pie with paste, and bake in the oven. - - -TOMATO PIE (ANOTHER WAY).--Proceed as in making an ordinary potato pie. -Add a small bottle of tomato conserve, cover with paste, and bake in the -ordinary way. - - -POTATO PIE.--Peel and slice up some potatoes as thin as possible. At the -same time slice up some onions. If Spanish onions are used allow equal -quantities of potatoes and onions, but if ordinary onions are used allow -only half this quantity. Place a layer of sliced onion and sliced potato -alternately. Add some pepper, salt, and sufficient butter to moisten the -potato and butter before any water is added. Pour in some water and add a -teaspoonful of chopped parsley, cover the pie with paste, and bake in the -ordinary way. - - -POTATO PIE (ANOTHER WAY).--Butter a shallow pie-dish rather thickly. Line -the edges with a good crust, and then fill the pie with mashed potatoes -seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Lay over them some small -lumps of butter, hard-boiled eggs, blanched almonds, sliced dates, sliced -lemon and candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry and bake the pie in a -well-heated oven for half an hour or more, according to the size of the -pie. - - -PUMPKIN PIE.--Peel a ripe pumpkin and chip off the rind or skin, halve it, -and take out the seed and fluffy part in the centre, which throw away. Cut -the pumpkin into small, thin slices, fill a pie-dish therewith, add to it -half a teaspoonful of allspice and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a small -quantity of water. Cover with a nice light paste and bake in the ordinary -way. Pumpkin pie is greatly unproved by being eaten with Devonshire cream -and sugar. An equal quantity of apples with the pumpkin will make a still -more delicious pie. - - -PUMPKIN PUDDING.--Take a large pumpkin, pare it, and remove the seeds. Cut -half of it into thin slices, and boil these gently in water until they are -quite soft, then rub them through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden -spoon. Measure the pulp, and with each pint put four ounces of butter and -a large nutmeg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, then -add the third of a pint of hot milk and four well-beaten eggs. Pour the -pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven for about an -hour. Sugar may be added to taste. - - -POTATO CHEESECAKE.--(_See_ CHEESECAKES.) - - -CHEESE WITH FRIED BREAD.--Take some stale bread, and cut it into strips -about three inches long and one wide and one inch thick. Fry the bread in -some butter or oil till it is a nice bright golden colour. Spread a layer -of made mustard over the strips of fried bread, and then cover them with -grated Parmesan cheese, pile them up on a dish, and place them in the oven. -As soon as the cheese begins to melt serve them very hot. - - -CHEESE, SAVOURY.--Take equal quantities of grated Parmesan cheese, butter, -and flour; add a little salt and cayenne pepper, make these into a paste -with some water, roll out the paste thin till it is about a quarter of an -inch thick; cut it into strips and bake them in the oven till they are a -nice brown, and serve hot. - - -CHEESE SOUFFLE.--(_See_ OMELETS.) - - -CHEESE PUDDING.--Mix half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese with four eggs, -well beaten up; mix in also two ounces of butter, which should be first -beaten to a cream, add half a pint of milk and pour the mixture into a -well-buttered pie-dish, sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese over the top, -and bake in the oven for about half an hour. The pudding will be lighter -if two of the whites of eggs are beaten to a stiff froth. The edge of the -pie-dish can be lined with puff-paste. - - -CHEESE RAMEQUINS.--Put half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese in a stew-pan -with a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pint of water; add a -little pepper and salt, and as much flour as will make the whole into a -thick paste. Mix up with the paste as many well-beaten-up eggs as will -make the paste not too liquid to be moulded into a shape. The eggs should -be beaten till they froth. Now, with a tablespoon, mould this mixture into -shapes like a meringue or egg; place these on a buttered tin and bake them -till they are a nice brown colour. - - -CHEESE, STEWED.--When the remains of cheese have got very dry it is a good -plan to use it up in the shape of stewed cheese. Break up the cheese and -put it in a small stew-pan with about a quarter its weight of butter; add a -little milk, and let the cheese stew gently till it is dissolved. At the -finish, and when you have removed it from the fire, add a well-beaten-up -egg. This can be served on toast, or it can be poured on to a dish and -pieces of toasted bread stuck in it. - - -CHEESE STRAWS.--Mix equal quantities of grated Parmesan cheese, grated -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve, butter, and flour; -add a little cayenne and grated nutmeg. Make it into a thick paste, roll -it out very thin, cut it into strips, and bake for a few minutes in a -fierce oven. - - -CHEESE, TOASTED.--This is best done in a Dutch oven, so that when one side -is toasted you can turn the oven and toast the back; as soon as the cheese -begins to melt it is done. As it gets cold very quickly, and when cold -gets hard, it is best served on hot-water plates. - - -CHEESE, DEVILLED.--Chop up some hot pickles, add some cayenne pepper and -mustard. Melt some cheese in a stew-pan with a little butter, mix in the -pickles, and serve on toast. - - -WELSH RAREBIT.--Toast a large slice of bread; in the meantime melt some -cheese in the saucepan with a little butter. When the cheese is melted it -will be found that a good deal of oiled butter floats on the top. Pour -this over the dry toast first, and then pour the melted cheese afterwards. -Some persons add a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce to the cheese, and others -a tablespoonful of good old Burton ale over the top. - - -AYOLI.--This is a dish almost peculiar to the South of France. Soak some -crusts of bread in water, squeeze them dry, and add two cloves of garlic -chopped fine, six blanched almonds, also chopped very fine, and a yolk of -an egg; mix up the whole into a smooth paste with a little oil. - - -PUMPKIN A LA PARMESANE.--Cut a large pumpkin into square pieces and boil -them for about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, and take them out, -drain them, and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter, salt, and -grated nutmeg; fry them, sprinkle them with a little Parmesan cheese, and -bake them for a short time in the oven till the cheese begins to melt, and -then serve. This is an Italian recipe. - - -ZUCCHETTI FARCIS.--Take some very small gourds or pumpkins, boil them for -about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, and then fill them with a -forcemeat made as follows: Take some crumb of bread and soak it in milk, -squeeze it and add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and two raw yolks; -chop up very finely half a dozen blanched almonds with a couple of cloves; -add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little salt and grated -nutmeg. Stew these gourds in butter and serve them with white sauce. - - -STUFFED ONIONS (ITALIAN FASHION).--Parboil some large onions, stamp out the -core after they have been allowed to get quite cold in a little water; fill -the inside with forcemeat similar to the above; fry then), squeeze the -juice of a lemon over them, with a little pepper. - - -POLENTA.--Polenta is made from ground Indian corn, and is seen in Italian -shop-windows in the form of a yellow powder; it is made into a paste with -boiling water, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, and baked in the oven. - - -PIROSKI SERNIKIS.--This dish is met with in Poland, and is made by mixing -up two pounds of cream-cheese, three-quarters of a pound of fine -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve, six eggs well -beaten up; add a little cream or milk, four ounces of washed grocer's -currants, one ounce of sugar, half a grated nutmeg; and when the whole is -thoroughly mixed add as much flour as is necessary to make the whole into a -paste that can be rolled into balls. These balls should not be much bigger -than a walnut. Flour them, and then flatten them into little cakes and fry -them a nice brown in some butter. - -Of course, a smaller quantity can be made by using these ingredients in -proportion. - - -NALESNIKIS (POLISH PANCAKES).--Take eight eggs and beat them up very -thoroughly with about a pint and a half of milk, or still better, cream, -two ounces of butter that has been oiled, half a grated nutmeg, and about a -dozen lumps of sugar that have been rubbed on the outside of a lemon; mix -in sufficient flour--about three-quarters of a pound will be required--to -make the whole into a very smooth batter. Melt a little butter in a -frying-pan, pour it all over the pan, and when it frizzles, pour in some of -the batter, and sprinkle over a few currants; when the pancake is fried, -shake some powdered sugar over it, roll it up like an ordinary pancake, and -serve hot. - - -FRITTERS. - -BATTER FOR SAVOURY FRITTERS.--Put six ounces of flour into a basin, with a -pinch of salt, the yolk of one egg, and a quarter of a pint of warm water. -Work this round and round with a wooden spoon till it is perfectly smooth -and looks like thick cream. About half an hour before the batter is wanted -for use whip the white of one egg to a stiff froth and mix it lightly in. - - -MUSHROOM FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom forcemeat; let it get quite cold on -a dish about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out some small rounds, about -the size of a penny-piece. They fry better if slightly oval. Have ready -some thick batter (_See_ BATTER). Have also ready in a saucepan some -boiling oil, which should be heated to about 350 degrees. Place a -frying-basket in the saucepan, flour the rounds of mushroom forcemeat so as -to make them perfectly dry on the outside. Dip these pieces into the -batter and throw them into the boiling oil. The great heat of the oil will -set the batter before the mushroom force-meat has time to melt. Directly -the batter is a nice light-brown colour, lift them out of the boiling oil -with the frying-basket, and throw them on to a cloth to drain. Break off -the outside pieces of batter, and serve the fritters on a neatly folded -napkin on a dish surrounded by fried parsley. - -The beauty of these fritters is that when they are eaten the inside is -moist, owing, of course, to the heat having melted the forcemeat. - - -TOMATO FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom forcemeat and spread it out as thin as -possible. Take some ripe tomatoes, cut them in slices, dip the slice in -vinegar, drain it and pepper it, and then wrap this thin slice of tomato in -a layer of mushroom forcemeat. Bring the edges together, flour it, dip it -into batter (_see_ BATTER), and throw it into boiling oil as in making -mushroom fritters (_see_ MUSHROOM FRITTERS). - - -IMITATION GAME FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom force-meat as directed under -the heading "Mushroom Forcemeat," with the addition of, when you fry the -mushrooms, chop up and fry with them two heads of garlic, and add a -saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. (These, are sold in bottles by -all grocers under the name of "Herbaceous Mixture.") Then proceed exactly -as if you were making mushroom fritters (_see_ MUSHROOM FRITTERS). - - -HOMINY FRITTERS.--These are made from remains of cold boiled hominy, cut in -thin slices, which must be dipped in batter and fried in boiling oil. - - -CHEESE FRITTERS.--Pound some dry cheese, or take about three ounces of -Parmesan cheese, and mix it with a few bread-crumbs, a piece of butter, a -pinch of cayenne pepper, and the yolk of an egg, till the whole becomes a -thick paste. Roll the mixture into very small balls, flatten them, flour -them, dip them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil in the ordinary -way. Put them in the oven for five minutes before serving them. - - -SAGE AND ONION FRITTERS.--Make some ordinary sage and onion stuffing, -allowing one fresh sage leaf or two dried to each parboiled onion; add -pepper and salt and dried breadcrumbs. Now moisten the whole with -clarified butter, till the mixture becomes a moist pulp. When it begins to -get cold and sets, roll it into small balls, the size of a very small -walnut, flatten these and let them get quite cold, then flour them, dip -them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil; remove them with the -frying-basket, and serve with fried parsley. - - -SPINACH FRITTERS.--Make a little thick puree of spinach, add a pinch of -savoury herbs containing marjoram; mix in a little clarified butter and one -or two lumps of sugar rubbed on the outside of a lemon, as well as a little -grated nutmeg. Roll the mixture into very small ball; or else they will -break, flatten them, flour them, dip them into batter, and throw them into -boiling oil, and serve immediately. - - -FRITTERS, SWEET.--In making sweet fritters, the same kind of batter will do -as we used for making savoury fritters, though many cooks add a little -powdered sugar. The same principles hold good. The oil must be heated to -a temperature of 350 degrees, and a frying-basket must be used. Instead of -flouring the substances employed to make them dry, before being dipped into -the batter, which is an essential point in making fritters, we must use -finely powdered sugar, and it will be found a saving of both time and -trouble to buy pounded sugar for the purpose. It is sold by grocers under -the name of castor sugar. We cannot make this at home in a pestle and -mortar to the same degree of fineness any more than we could grind our own -flour. We cannot compete with machinery. - - -APPLE FRITTERS.--Peel some apples, cut them in slices across the core, and -stamp out the core. It is customary, where wine, &c., is not objected to, -to soak these rings of apples for several hours in a mixture of brandy, -grated lemon or orange peel and sugar, or better still, to rub some lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon or orange and dissolve this in the -brandy. Of course, brandy is not necessary, but the custom is worth -mentioning. The rings of apple can be soaked for some time in syrup -flavoured this way. They must then be made dry by being dipped in powdered -sugar, then dipped into batter and thrown, one at a time, into a saucepan -containing smoking hot oil in which a wire frying-basket has been placed. -Directly the fritters are a nice brown, take them out, break off the rough -pieces, shake some finely powdered sugar over them, pile them up on a dish, -and serve. - - -APRICOT FRITTERS.--These can be made from fresh apricots or tinned ones, -not too ripe; if they break they are not fitted. When made from fresh -apricots they should be peeled, cut in halves, the round end removed, -dipped in powdered sugar, then dipped in batter, thrown into boiling oil, -and finished like apple fritters. Some persons soak the apricots in -brandy. - - -BANANA FRITTERS.--Banana fritters can be made from the bananas as sold in -this country, and it is a mistake to think that when they are black outside -they are bad. When in this state they are sometimes sold as cheap as six a -penny. Peel the bananas, cut them into slices half an inch thick, dip them -into finely powdered sugar and then into batter, and finish as directed in -apple fritters. - -Some persons soak the slices of banana in maraschino. - - -CUSTARD FRITTERS.--Take half a pint of cream in which some cinnamon and -lemon have been boiled, add to this five yolks of eggs, a little flour, and -about three ounces of sugar. Put this into a pie-dish, well buttered, and -steam it till the custard becomes quite set; then let it get cold, and cut -it into slices about half an inch thick and an inch and a half long, -sprinkle each piece with a little powdered cinnamon, and make it quite dry -with some powdered sugar. Then dip each piece into batter, throw them one -by one into boiling oil, and finish as directed for apple fritters. - - -ALMOND FRITTERS, CHOCOLATE FRITTERS, COFFEE FRITTERS, VANILLA FRITTERS, -&c.--These fritters are made exactly in the same way as custard fritters, -only substituting powdered chocolate, pounded almonds, essence of coffee, -or essence of vanilla, for the powdered cinnamon. - - -FRANGIPANE FRITTERS.--Make a Frangipane cream by mixing eggs with a little -cold potato, butter, sugar, and powdered ratafias, the proportion being a -quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, six ounces of sugar, one cold -floury potato, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias. Bake or steam this -until it is set, and proceed as in custard fritters. Many persons add the -flavouring of a little rum. - - -PEACH FRITTERS.--These are made exactly similar to apricot fritters, -bearing in mind that if they are made from tinned peaches only the firm -pieces, and not pulpy ones, must be used for the purpose. Proceed exactly -as directed for apricot fritters. - -If any liqueur is used, noyeau is best adapted for the purpose. - - -POTATO FRITTERS.--Mix up some floury potato with a quarter of a pound of -butter, a well-beaten-up egg, and three ounces of sugar, some of which has -been rubbed on the outside of a lemon. The addition of a little cream is a -great improvement. Roll the mixture into small balls and flour them; they -are then fried just as they are, without being dipped into batter. - - -PINE-APPLE FRITTERS.--These can be made from fresh pine-apples or tinned. -They should be cut into slices like apple fritters if the pine-apple is -small, but if the pine-apple is large they can be cut into strips three -inches long and one wide and half an inch thick. These must be dipped in -powdered sugar, then into batter, and finished as directed for apple -fritters. - -If any liqueur is used, maraschino is best adapted to the purpose. - -ORANGE FRITTERS.--Only first-class oranges are adapted for this purpose. -Thick-skinned and woolly oranges are no use. Peel a thin-skinned ripe -orange, divide each orange into about six pieces, soak these in a syrup -flavoured with sugar rubbed on the outside of an orange, and if liqueur is -used make the syrup with brandy. After they have soaked some time, remove -any pips, dip each piece into hatter, and proceed as directed for apple -fritters. - - -CREAM FRITTERS.--Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, pound -them, and mix with a little cream; take some small pieces of stale white -cake, such as Madeira cake or what the French call brioche. Soak these -pieces of stale cake, which must be cut small and thin, or they will break, -in the orange-flavoured cream, dry each piece in some finely-powdered -sugar, dip it into batter, and proceed as directed for making apple -fritters. - - -GERMAN FRITTERS.--Take some small stale pieces of cake, and soak them in a -little milk or cream flavoured with essence of vanilla and sweetened with a -little sugar. Take them out, and let them get a little dry on the outside, -then dip them in a well-beaten-up egg, cover them with bread-crumbs, and -fry a nice golden-brown colour. - - -RICE AND GINGER FRITTERS.--Boil a small quantity of rice in milk and add -some preserved ginger chopped small, some sugar, and one or more eggs, -sufficient to set the mixture when baked in a pie-dish. Bake till set, -then cut into slices about two inches long, an inch wide, and half an inch -thick; dry these pieces with powdered sugar, dip into batter, and finish as -directed for making apple fritters. - - -RICE FRITTERS.--A variety of fritters could be made from a small baked rice -pudding, flavoured with various kinds of essences, spices, orange -marmalade, peach marmalade, fresh lime marmalade, apricot jam, &c., -proceeding exactly as directed above. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -VEGETABLES. - -SUBSTANTIAL VEGETABLES. - - -Vegetables may be roughly divided into two classes--those that may be -called substantial and which are adapted to form a meal in themselves, and -those of a lighter kind, which cannot be said to make a sufficient repast -unless eaten with bread. - -Potatoes were first introduced into this country about 400 years ago, -tobacco being introduced about the same period, and we cannot disguise the -fact that there are many who regard the latter as the greater blessing of -the two. If Sir Henry Thompson is right in stating that tobacco is the -great ally of temperance, there may be some ground for this opinion. - -Potatoes form an important article of food for the body, while, whatever -effect tobacco may have upon the thinking powers of mankind, it is almost -the only product of the vegetable kingdom that is absolutely uneatable even -when placed within the reach of those in the last stage of starvation. - -In some parts, especially in Ireland, potatoes form almost the only food of -the population, just as rice does in hotter climates, and when the crop -fails famine ensues. When potatoes form the only kind of food, a very -large quantity has to be eaten by a hard-working man in order for him to -receive sufficient nourishment to keep his body healthy, the amount -required being not less than ten pounds per day. If, on the other hand, a -certain amount of fat or oil of some kind be mixed with them, a far less -quantity will suffice. Hence we find in Ireland that, wherever it is -possible, either some kind of oily fish, such as herring, is taken with -them, or, which is much more to the point with vegetarians, a certain -quantity of fat is obtained in the shape of milk. - -It must also be remembered that four pounds of raw potatoes contain only -one pound of solid food, the remaining three pounds being water. It is -important, for those who first commence a vegetarian diet, to remember that -vegetables like peas, haricot beans, and lentils are far superior to -potatoes so far as nourishment is concerned, for many are apt to jump to -the conclusion that potatoes are the very best substitute for bread and -milk. So, too, is oatmeal. A Scotchman requires a far less quantity of -oatmeal to sustain life than an Irishman does potatoes; hence it is a very -important point to remember that, if we depend upon potatoes to any great -extent for our daily food, we should cook them in such a manner as to -entail as little waste as possible. We will now try and explain, as -briefly as possible, the best method of serving. - - -POTATOES, PLAIN BOILED.--The best method of having potatoes, if we wish to -study economy, is to boil them in their jackets, as it is generally -admitted that the most nourishing part is that which lies nearest to the -skin. There are many houses in the country where an inexperienced cook -will peel, say four pounds of potatoes, and throw the peel into the -pig-tub, where the pig gets a better meal than the family. - -When potatoes are boiled in their skins, they should be thoroughly washed -and scrubbed with a hard brush. Old potatoes should be put into cold -water, and when the water boils the time should a good deal depend upon the -size of the potatoes. When the potatoes are large, the chief principle to -be borne in mind is, do not let them boil too quickly or cook too quickly. -We must avoid having the outside pulpy while the inside is hard. The -water, which should be slightly salted, should more than cover them, and, -if the potatoes are very large, directly the water comes to the boil it is -a good plan to throw in a little cold water to take it off the boil. It is -quite impossible to lay down any exact law in regard to boiling potatoes. -We cannot do more than give general principles which can only be carried -out by cooks who possess a little common sense. - -Small new potatoes are an extreme in one direction. They should be thrown -into boiling water, and are generally cooked in about ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour. Large old potatoes should be put into cold water and, -as we have stated, the water should not be allowed to boil too soon, and it -will take very often an hour to boil them properly. Between these two -extremes there is a gradually ascending scale which must be left to the -judgment of the cook. It is as impossible to lay down any hard-and-fast -line with regard to time in boiling potatoes as it would be to say at what -exact point in the thermometer between freezing and 80 degrees in the shade -a man should put on his top coat. - -If we may be allowed the expression, "old new" potatoes should be thrown -into neither boiling water nor cold water, but lukewarm water. Again, in -boiling potatoes, especially in the case of old ones, some little allowance -must be made for the time of year. In winter, they require longer time, -and we may here mention the fact that it is very important that potatoes, -after they are dug, should not be left out of doors and exposed to a hard -frost, as in this case a chemical change takes place in which the starch is -converted into sugar. - -When potatoes are boiled in their jackets sufficiently, which fact is -generally tested by sticking a steel fork into them, they should be -strained off, and allowed to get dry for a few minutes in the saucepan, -which should be removed from the fire, as at times the potatoes are apt to -stick and burn. - -When large potatoes are peeled before they are boiled, we should endeavour -to send them to table floury, and this is often said to be the test of a -really good cook. After the water has been strained off from the potatoes, -a dry cloth should be placed under the lid of the saucepan, and the lid -should only be placed half on, _i.e._, it should not be fitted down tight. -It is also as well to give the saucepan now and then a shake, but do not -overdo the shaking and break them. About five or ten minutes is generally -sufficient. - - -POTATOES, STEAMED.--Potatoes can be steamed in their jackets, and it is a -more economical method than peeling. It should be remembered, however, -that steam is hotter than boiling water. If plain water is underneath and -boils furiously, and the steam is well shut in, they will cook very -quickly; but if, as is generally the case, something else is in the -saucepan under the steamer, boiling gently, this does not apply. We refer -to the ordinary steamer met with in private houses, and not to the ones -used in the large hotels and restaurants. - - -POTATOES, BAKED.--When potatoes are baked in the oven in their jackets the -larger they are the better. The oven must not be too fierce, and ample -time should be allowed. Baked potatoes require quite two hours. This only -refers to those baked in their jackets. When potatoes are cut up and baked -in a tin they require some kind of fat, which, of course, in vegetarian -cookery must be either oil or butter. - - -POTATOES, MASHED.--What may be termed high-class mashed potatoes are made -by mashing up ordinary boiled potatoes with a little milk _previously -boiled_, a little butter, and passing the whole through a wire sieve, when -a little cream, butter and salt is added. - -In private houses mashed potatoes are generally made from the remains of -cold boiled potatoes, or when the cook, in boiling the potatoes, has made a -failure. Still, of course, potatoes are boiled often expressly for the -purpose of being mashed. This is often the case where old potatoes have to -be cut into all sorts of shapes and sizes in order to get rid of the black -spots. As soon as the potatoes are boiled they are generally moistened in -the saucepan with a little drop of milk. It is undoubtedly an improvement, -and also entails very little extra trouble, to boil the milk first. There -is a difference in flavour, which is very marked, between milk that has -been boiled and raw milk. Suppose you have coffee for breakfast, add -boiling milk to one cup and raw milk to another, and then see how great a -difference there will be in the flavour of the two. A little butter should -be added to mashed potatoes, but it is not really essential. Mashed -potatoes can be served in the shape of a mould, that is, they can be shaped -in a mould and then browned in the oven. If you serve mashed potatoes in -an ordinary dish, and pile them up in the shape of a dome, the dish will -look much prettier if you score it round with a fork and then place the -dish in a fairly fierce even; the edges will brown, but be careful that -they don't get burnt black. - - -POTATOES, FRIED.--The best lesson, if you wish to fry potatoes nicely, is -to look in at the window of a fried fish shop, where every condition is -fulfilled that is likely to lead to perfection. The bath of oil is deep -and smoking hot, and in sufficient quantity not to lose greatly in -temperature on the introduction of the frying-basket containing the -potatoes. The potatoes must be cut up into small pieces, not much bigger -in thickness than the little finger; these are plunged into the smoking hot -oil, and as soon as they are _slightly_ browned on the outside they are -done. They acquire a darker colour after they are removed from the oil, -and the inside will go on cooking for several minutes. It would be quite -impossible to eat fried potatoes directly they are taken out of the fat, as -they would burn the mouth terribly. It is best to throw the fried potatoes -into a cloth for a few seconds. - - -POTATO CHIPS.--Potato chips are ordinary fried potatoes cut up when raw -into little pieces about the size and thickness of a lucifer match. They, -of course, will cook very quickly. They should be removed from the oil -directly they _begin_ to turn colour. - - -POTATO RIBBON.--Potato ribbon is simply ordinary fried potatoes, in which -the raw potato is cut in the shape of a ribbon. You take a potato and peel -it in the ordinary way. You then take this and, with not too sharp a -knife, peel it like apple, making the strip as long as you can, like -children sometimes do when they throw the apple peel over their shoulders -to see what letter it will make. You can go on peeling the potato round -and round till there is none left. These ribbons are thrown into boiling -oil, and must be removed as soon as they begin to turn colour. When piled -up in a dish they look very pretty, and with a little pepper and salt, and -a squeeze of lemon-juice, make an excellent meal when eaten with bread. - - -POTATO SAUTE.--This dish is more frequently met with abroad than in -England, except in foreign restaurants. It is made by taking the remains -of ordinary plain-boiled potatoes that are not floury. These are cut up -into small pieces about the size of the thumb, no particular shape being -necessary. They are thrown into a frying-pan with a little butter, and -fried gently till the edges begin to brown; they are served with chopped -parsley and pepper and salt. The butter should be poured over the -potatoes, and supplies the fatty element which potato lacks. - - -POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.--These are very similar to potato saute, the -difference being that they are not browned at the edges. Small kidney -potatoes are best for the purpose. These must be boiled till tender, and -the potatoes then cut into slices. These must be warmed up with a spoonful -or two of white sauce (_see_ WHITE SAUCE), to which is added some chopped -parsley and a little lemon-juice. A more common way is to boil the -potatoes, slice them up while hot, and then toss them about in a -vegetable-dish lightly with a lump of what is called Maitre d'hotel butter. -This is simply a lump of plain cold butter, mixed with chopped parsley, -till it looks like a lump of cold parsley and butter. When tossed about -squeeze a little lemon-juice over the whole and serve. - - -POTATOES, NEW.--New potatoes should be washed and the skin, if necessary, -rubbed off with the fingers; they should be thrown into boiling water, -slightly salted, and as a rule require from fifteen to five-and-twenty -minutes to boil before they are done. During the last few minutes throw in -one or two sprigs of fresh mint, drain them off and let there dry, and then -place them in a vegetable-dish with the mint and a little piece of butter, -in which the potatoes should be boiled to give them a shiny appearance -outside. - -New potatoes can also be served with a little white sauce to which has been -added a little chopped parsley. - -POTATO BALLS.--Mash some boiled potatoes with a little butter, pepper, -salt, chopped parsley, chopped onion, or still better, shallot, and add a -few savoury herbs. Mix up one or two or more well-beaten eggs, according -to the quantity of potato, roll the mixture into balls, flour them, and fry -them a nice brown colour, and serve. - - -POTATO CROQUETTES OR CUTLETS.--These are very similar to potato balls, only -they should be smaller and more delicately flavoured. The potatoes are -boiled and mashed, and, if the croquettes are wished to be very good, one -or two hard-boiled yolks of eggs should be mixed with them. The mixture is -slightly flavoured with shallot, savoury herbs or thyme, chopped parsley, -and a little nutmeg. One or two fresh well-beaten-up eggs are now added, -the mixture then rolled into small balls no bigger than a walnut. These -are then dipped in well-beaten-up egg, and then bread-crumbed. The balls -are fried a nice golden-brown colour and served. - -Potato cutlets are exactly the same, only instead of shaping the mixture -into a little ball, the ball is flattened into the shape of a small oval -cutlet. These are then egged, bread-crumbed, and fried, but before being -sent to table a small piece of green parsley stalk is stuck in one end to -represent the bone of the cutlet. These little cutlets, placed on an -ornamental sheet of white paper, at the bottom of the silver dish, look -very pretty. A small heap of fried parsley should be placed in the centre -of the dish. - - -POTATO PIE.--(_See_ SAVOURY DISHES, p. 112.) - - -POTATO CHEESECAKE.--(_See_ CHEESECAKES, p. 169.) - - -POTATO SALADS.--(_See_ SALADS, p. 101.) - - -POTATO, BORDER OF.--A very pretty dish can be made by making a border of -mashed potatoes, hollow in the centre, in which can be placed various kinds -of other vegetables, such as haricot beans, stewed peas, &c. The mashed -potato should be mixed with one or two well-beaten-up eggs, and the outside -of the border can be moulded by hand, to make it look smooth and neat; a -piece of flexible tin, flat, will be found very useful, or even a piece of -cardboard. If you wish to make the border ornamental, you can proceed -exactly as directed under the heading Rice Borders, and if it is wished to -make the dish particularly handsome, it can be painted outside, before -being placed in the oven, with a yolk of egg beaten up with a tiny drop of -hot water. When this is done, the potato border has an appearance similar -in colour to the rich pastry generally seen outside a pie, or _vol au -vent_. The inside of the potato border after it has been scooped out can -be filled with plain boiled macaroni mixed with Parmesan cheese, and -ornamented with a little chopped parsley on the top and a few small baked -red ripe tomatoes. Again, it can be filled with white haricot beans piled -up in the shape of a dome, with some chopped parsley sprinkled over the -top. There are, perhaps, few dishes in vegetarian cookery that can be made -to look more elegant. - - -POTATO BISCUITS (_M. Ude's Recipe_).--Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the -yolks into one pan and the whites into another. Beat the yolks with a -pound of sugar pounded very fine, scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of -sugar, dry that and pound it fine also; then throw into it the yolks, and -work the eggs and sugar till they are of a whitish colour. Next whip the -whites well and mix them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound of flour of -potatoes through a silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. Have some paper -cases ready, which lay on a plafond with some paper underneath. Fill the -cases, but not too full; glaze the contents with some rather coarse sugar, -and bake the whole in an oven moderately heated. - - -POTATO BREAD.--In making bread, a portion of mashed potato is sometimes -added to the flour, and this addition improves the bread very much for some -tastes; it also keeps it from getting dry quite so soon. At the same time -it is not so nutritious as ordinary home-made bread. Boil the required -quantity of potatoes in their skins, drain and dry them, then peel and -weigh them. Pound them with the rolling-pin until they are quite free from -lumps, and mix with them the flour in the proportion of seven pounds of -flour to two and a half pounds of potatoes. Add the yeast and knead in the -ordinary way, but make up the bread with milk instead of water. When the -dough is well risen, bake the bread in a gentle oven. Bake it a little -longer than for ordinary bread, and, when it seems done enough, let it -stand a little while, with the oven-door open, before taking it out. -Unless these precautions are taken, the crust will be hard and brittle, -while the inside is still moist and doughy. This recipe is from "Cassell's -Dictionary of Cookery." - - -POTATO CAKE.--Take a dozen good-sized potatoes and hake them in the oven -till done, then peel and put them into a saucepan with a little salt and -grated lemon-peel; set them upon the stove and put in a piece of fresh -butter and stir the whole; add a little cream and sugar, still continuing -to stir them; then let them cool a little and add some orange-flower water, -eight yolks of eggs and four only of whites, whisked into froth; heat up -the whole together and mix it with the potato puree. Butter a mould and -sprinkle it with bread-crumbs; pour in the paste, place the pan upon hot -cinders, with fire upon the lid, and let it remain for three-quarters of an -hour, or it may be baked in an oven. - - -POTATO CHEESE.--Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed in Germany; they -can be made of various qualities, but care must be taken that they are not -too rich and have not too much heat, or they will burst. Boil the potatoes -till they are soft, but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes must be -large and of the best quality. When boiled, carefully peel them and beat -them to a smooth paste in a mortar with a wooden pestle. To make the -commonest cheese, put five pounds of potato paste into a cheese-tub with -one pound of milk and rennet; add a sufficient quantity of salt, together -with caraways and cumin seed sufficient to impart a good flavour. Knead -all these ingredients well together, cover up and allow them to stand three -or four days in winter, two to three in summer. At the end of that time -knead them again, put the paste into wicker moulds, and leave the cheeses -to drain until they are quite dry. When dry and firm, lay them on a board -and leave them to acquire hardness gradually in a place of very moderate -warmth; should the heat be too great, as we have said, they will burst. -When, in spite of all precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices of -the burst cheeses are, in Germany, filled with curds and cream mixed, some -being also put over the whole surface of the cheese, which is then dried -again. As soon as the cheeses are thoroughly dry and hard, place them in -barrels with green chickweed between each cheese; let them stand for about -three weeks, when they will be fit for use. - - -POTATOES A LA BARIGOULE.--Peel some potatoes and boil them in a little -water with some oil, pepper, salt, onions, and savoury herbs. Boil them -slowly, so that they can absorb the liquor; when they are done, brown them -in a stew-pan in a little oil, and serve them to be eaten with oil and -vinegar, pepper and salt. - - -POTATOES, BROILED.--Potatoes are served this way sometimes in Italy. They -are first boiled in their skins, but not too long. They are then taken out -and peeled, cut into thin slices, placed on a gridiron, and grilled till -they are crisp. A little oil is poured over them when they are served. - - -POTATOES A LA LYONNAISE.--First boil and then peel and slice some potatoes. -Make some rather thin puree of onion. (_See_ SAUCE SOUBISE.) Pour this -over the potatoes and serve. - -Another way is to first brown the slices of potatoes and then serve them -with the onion sauce, with the addition of a little vinegar or lemon-juice. - - -POTATOES A LA PROVENCALE.--Put a small piece of butter into a stew-pan, or -three tablespoonfuls of oil, three beads of garlic, the peel of a quarter -of a lemon, and some parsley, all chopped up very fine; add a little grated -nutmeg, pepper and salt. Peel some small potatoes and let them stew till -they are tender in this mixture. Large potatoes can be used for the -purpose, only they must be cut tip into pieces. Add the juice of a lemon -before serving. - - -HARICOT BEANS.--It is very much to be regretted that haricot beans are not -more used in this country. There are hundreds of thousands of families who -at the end of a year would be richer in purse and more healthy in body if -they would consent to deviate from the beaten track and try haricot beaus, -not as an accompaniment to a dish of meat, but as an article of diet in -themselves. The immense benefit derived in innumerable cases from a diet -of beans is one of the strongest and most practical arguments in favour of -vegetarianism. Meat-eaters often boast of the plainness of their food, and -yet wonder that they suffer in health. It is not an uncommon thing for a -man to consult his doctor and to tell him, "I live very simply, nothing but -plain roast or boiled." - -Medical men are all agreed on one point, and that is that haricot beans -rank almost first among vegetables as a nourishing article of diet. In -writing on this subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes, "Let me recall, at -the close of these few hints about the haricot, the fact that there is no -product of the vegetable kingdom so nutritious, holding its own, in this -respect, as it well can, even against the beef and mutton of the animal -kingdom." - -This is a very strong statement, coming as it does from so high an -authority, and vegetarians would do well to hear it in mind when discussing -the subject of vegetarianism with those who differ from them. Sir Henry -proceeds as follows:--"The haricot ranks just above lentils, which have -been so much praised of late, and rightly, the haricot being to most -palates more agreeable. By most stomachs, too, haricots are more easily -digested than meat is; and, consuming weight for weight, the eater feels -lighter and less oppressed, as a rule, after the leguminous dish, while the -comparative cost is very greatly in favour of the latter." - -To boil haricot beans proceed as follows. We refer, of course, to the -dried white haricot beans, the best of which are those known as Soissons. -The beans should be soaked in cold water overnight, and in the morning any -that may be found floating on the top of the water should be thrown away. -Suppose the quantity be a quart; place these in a saucepan with two quarts -of cold water, slightly salted. As soon as time water conies to the boil, -move it so that the beans will only simmer gently; they must then continue -simmering till they are tender. This generally takes about three hours, -and if the water is hard, it is advisable to put in a tiny piece of soda. -This is the simple way of cooking beans usually recommended in -cookery-books when they are served up with a dish of meat, such as a leg of -mutton a la Bretonne, where the beans are served in some rich brown gravy -containing fat. In vegetarian cookery, of course, we must proceed entirely -differently, and there are various ways in which this nourishing dish can -be served, as savoury and as appetising, and indeed more so, than if we had -assistance from the slaughter-house. We will now proceed to give a few -instances. - -In the first place, it will greatly assist the flavour of the beans if we -boil with them one or two onions and a dessertspoonful of savoury herbs. -Supposing, however, we have them boiled plain. Take a large dry crust of -bread and rub the outside well over with one or two beads of garlic. Place -this crust of bread with the beans after they have been strained off, and -toss them lightly about with the crust without breaking the beans. Remove -the crust and moisten the beans while hot with a lump of butter, add a -brimming dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley; squeeze the juice of -a lemon over the whole, and serve. Instead of butter we can add, as they -always do in Italy, two or three tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Those -who have conquered the unreasonable English prejudice against the use of -oil will probably find this superior to butter. - -If the beans are served in the form of a puree, it is always best to boil a -few onions with them and rub the onions through the wire sieve with the -beans, taking care that the quantity of onion is not so large that it -destroys and overpowers the delicate and delicious flavour of the beans -themselves. - -Next, we would call attention to the importance of not throwing away the -water in which the beans were boiled. This water contains far more -nourishment than people are aware of, and throughout the length and breadth -of France, where economy is far more understood than in this country, it is -invariably saved to assist in making some kind of soup, and as our soup -will, of course, be vegetarian, the advantage gained is simply -incalculable. - - -FLAGEOLETS.--These are haricot beans in the fresh green state, and are -rarely met with in this country, though they form a standing dish abroad. -They are exceedingly nice, and can be cooked in a little butter like the -French cook green peas. They are often flavoured with garlic, and chopped -parsley can be added to them. Those who are fond of this vegetable in the -fresh state can obtain them in tins from any high-class grocer, as the -leading firms in this country keep them in this form for export. - - -PEAS, DRIED.--Dried peas, like dried beans, contain a very great amount of -nourishment. Indeed, in this respect, practically, dried beans, dried -peas, and lentils may be considered equal. Dried peas are met with in two -forms--the split yellow pea and those that are dried whole, green. Split -peas are chiefly used in this country to make pea soup, or puree of peas -and peas pudding. We have already given recipes for the two former, and -will now describe how to make-- - - -PEAS PUDDING.--Soak a quart of peas in water overnight, throwing away those -in the morning that are found floating at the top. Drain them off and tie -them up in a pudding-cloth, taking care to leave plenty of room for the -peas to swell; put them into cold water, and boil them till they are -tender. This will take from two to three hours. When tender, take them -out, untie the cloth, and rub them through a colander, or, better still, a -wire sieve. Now mix in a couple of ounces of butter with some pepper and -salt, flour the cloth well and tie it up again and boil it for another -hour, when it can be turned out and served. Peas pudding when eaten alone -is improved by mixing in, at the same time as the butter, a dessertspoonful -of dried powdered mint, also, should you have the remains of any cold -potatoes in the house, it is a very good way of using them up. A few -savoury herbs can be used instead of mint. - - -PEAS "BROSE."--Dr. Andrew, in writing to the "Cyclopaedia of Domestic -Medicine," says, "In the West of Scotland, especially in Glasgow, 'peas -brose,' as it is called, is made of the fine flour of the white pea, by -forming it into a mass merely by the addition of boiling water and a little -salt. It is a favourite dish with not only the working classes, but it is -even esteemed by many of the gentry. It was introduced into fashion -chiefly by the recommendation of Dr. Cleghorn, late Professor of Chemistry -in Glasgow University. The peas brose is eaten with milk or butter, and is -a sweet, nourishing article of diet peculiarly fitted for persons of a -costive habit and for children." - - -PEAS, DRIED WHOLE, GREEN.--This is perhaps the best form with which we meet -peas dried. When the best quality is selected, and care taken in their -preparation, they are quite equal to fresh green peas when they are old. -Indeed, many persons prefer them. - -Soak the peas overnight, throwing away those that float at the top; put -them into cold water, and when they boil let the peas simmer gently till -they are tender. The time varies very much with the quality and the size -of the peas, old ones requiring nearly three hours, others considerably -less. When the peas are tender, throw in some sprigs, if possible, of -fresh mint, and after a minute strain them off; add pepper, salt, and about -two ounces of butter to a quart of peas--though this is not absolutely -necessary--and nearly a dessertspoonful of white powdered sugar. - -If you wish to have the peas as bright a green as freshly gathered ones, -after you strain them off you can mix them in a basin, before you add the -butter, with a little piece of green vegetable colouring (sold in bottles -by all grocers). The peas should then be put back in the saucepan for a -few minutes to be made hot through, and then finished as directed before. - - -PEAS, DRIED, GREEN, WITH CREAM.--Boil the peas as before directed till they -are quite tender, then strain them off and put them in a stew-pan with one -ounce of butter to every quart of peas and toss them lightly about with a -little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Add to each quart of peas a -quarter of a pint of cream and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; -surround the dish with fried or toasted bread. - -LENTILS.--Lentils are, comparatively speaking, a novel form of food in this -country, though they have been used abroad for many years, and a recipe for -cooking them will be found in a well-known work, published in Paris in -1846, entitled "_La Cuisiniere de la Campagne et de la Ville; ou, Nouvelle -Cuisine Economique_," one of the most popular French cookery-books ever -published, and which in that year had reached a circulation of 80,000 -copies. - -Recipes for boiled lentils and lentil soup are given in "Cassell's -Dictionary of Cookery," published in 1875; but it is stated in the -introductory remarks that lentils are little used in England except as food -for pigeons, and adds, "They are seldom offered for sale." Since that date -lentils have become an exceedingly popular form of food in many households, -and vegetarians generally regard them as one of the most nourishing forms -of food served at the table. There are two kinds of lentils, the German -and Egyptian. The Egyptian are red and much smaller than the German, which -are green. The former kind are generally used on the Continent, in Italy -and the South of France, while, as the name implies, the green lentils are -more commonly used in Eastern Europe. Either kind, however, can be used -for making soup and puree, recipes of which have already been given, as -well as for the recipes in the present chapter. - - -LENTILS, BOILED.--The lentils should be placed in soak overnight, and those -that float should be thrown away. Suppose we have half a pint of lentils, -they should be boiled in about a pint and a half of water. Boil them till -they are tender, which will take about half an hour, then drain them off -and put them back in the saucepan for a few minutes with a little piece of -butter, squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon, and serve hot. Some -people make a little thickened sauce with yolks of eggs and a little butter -and flour mixed with the water in which they are boiled. - - -LENTILS, CURRIED.--Lentils are very nice curried. Boil the lentils as -directed above till they are tender. When they are placed in a -vegetable-dish make deep well in the centre and pour some thick curry sauce -into it. (_See_ CURRY SAUCE.) - - -LENTILS A LA PROVENCALE.--Soak the lentils overnight and put them into a -stew-pan with five or six spoonfuls of oil, a little butter, some slices of -onion, some chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs. -Stew them in this till the lentils are tender, and then thicken the sauce -with yolks of eggs, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve. - -N.B.--Haricot beans can be cooked in a similar manner. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -VEGETABLES, FRESH. - - -ARTICHOKES, FRENCH, PLAIN BOILED.--Put the artichokes to soak in some well -salted water, upside down, as otherwise it is impossible to get rid of the -insects that are sometimes hidden in the leaves. Trim off the ends of the -leaves and the stalk, and all the hard leaves round the bottom should be -pulled off. Put the artichokes into a saucepan of boiling water -sufficiently deep to nearly cover them. The tips of the leaves are best -left out; add a little salt, pepper, and a spoonful of savoury herbs to the -water in which they are boiled. French cooks generally add a piece of -butter. Boil them till they are tender. The time depends upon the size, -but you can always tell when they are done by pulling out a single leaf. -If it comes out easily the artichokes are done. Drain them off, and -remember in draining them to turn them upside down. Some kind of sauce is -generally served with artichokes separately in a boat, such as butter -sauce, sauce Allemande, or Dutch sauce. - - -ARTICHOKES, BROILED.--Parboil the artichokes and take out the part known as -the choke. In the hollow place a little chopped parsley and light-coloured -bread-raspings soaked in olive oil. Place the bottoms of the artichokes on -a gridiron with narrow bars over a clear fire, and serve them as soon a -they are thoroughly hot through. - - -ARTICHOKES, FRIED.--The bottoms of artichokes after being boiled can be -dipped in batter and fried. - - -ARTICHOKES A LA PROVENCALE.--Parboil the artichokes and remove the choke, -and put them in the oven in a tin with a little oil, pepper and salt, and -three or four heads of garlic, whole. Let them bake till they are tender, -turning them over in the oil occasionally; then take out the garlic and -serve them with the oil poured over them, and add the juice of a lemon. - - -ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, BOILED, PLAIN.--The artichokes must be first washed -and peeled, and should be treated like potatoes in this respect. They -should be thrown into cold water immediately, and it is best to add a -little vinegar to the water. If the artichokes are young, throw them into -boiling water, and they will become tender in about a quarter of an hour or -twenty minutes. It is very important not to over-boil them, as they turn a -bad colour. If any doubt exists as to the age of the artichokes, they had -better be tested with a fork. Immediately they are tender they should be -drained and served. - -Old artichokes must be treated like old potatoes, _i.e._, put originally -into cold water, and when they come to the boiling point allowed to simmer -till tender; but these are best mashed. When the artichokes have been -drained, they can, of course, be served quite plain, but they are best sent -to table with some kind of sauce poured over them, such as Allemande sauce, -Dutch sauce, white sauce, or plain butter sauce. They are greatly improved -in appearance, after a spoonful of sauce has been poured over each -artichoke, if a little blanched chopped parsley is sprinkled over them, and -a few red specks made by colouring a pinch of bread-crumbs by shaking them -with a few drops of cochineal. - -Another very nice way of sending artichokes to table is to place all the -artichokes together in a vegetable-dish, and, after pouring a little white -sauce over each artichoke, to place a fresh-boiled bright green Brussels -sprout between each. The white and green contrast very prettily. - - -JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, FRIED.--Peel and slice the artichokes very thin; -throw these slices into smoking hot oil in which a frying-basket has been -placed. As soon as the artichokes are of bright golden-brown colour, lift -out the frying-basket, shake it while you pepper and salt the artichokes, -and serve very hot. They can be eaten with thin brown bread-and-butter and -lemon-juice, and form a sort of vegetarian whitebait. - - -ARTICHOKES, MASHED.--These are best made from old artichokes. They must be -rubbed through a wire sieve, and the strings left behind. It is best to -mash them up with a little butter, and a spoonful or two of cream is a very -great improvement. - - -ASPARAGUS, BOILED.--Cut the asparagus all the same length by bringing the -green points together, and then trimming the stalks level with a sharp -knife. Throw the asparagus into boiling salted water. Time, from fifteen -to twenty-five minutes, according to thickness. Serve on dry toast, and -send butter sauce to table separate in a tureen. - - -BEANS, BROAD, PLAIN BOILED.--Broad beans, if eaten whole, should be quite -young. They should be thrown into boiling water, salted. They require -about twenty minutes to boil before they are tender. Serve with parsley -and butter sauce. - - -BROAD BEANS, MASHED.--When broad beans get old, the only way to serve them -is to have them mashed. Boil them, and remove the skins, then mash them up -with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and rub them through a wire sieve, -make them hot, and serve. You can if you like boil a few green onions and -a pinch of savoury herbs with the beans, and rub these through the wire -sieve as well. This dish is very cheap and very nourishing. Very young -beans, like very young peas, are more nice than economical. - - -BEANS A LA POULETTE.--Boil some young beans till they are tender, and put -them into a saucepan with a little butter, sugar, pepper, and salt, and -sufficient flour to prevent the butter cooking oily; stew them in this a -short time, _i.e._, till they appear to begin to boil, as the water from -the beans will mix with the butter and flour and look like thin butter -sauce thicken this with one or two yolks of eggs, and serve. - - -BEANS A LA BOURGEOISE.--Place the beans in a saucepan, with a piece of -butter, a small quantity of shallot chopped fine, and a teaspoonful of -savoury herbs; toss them about in this a little time, and then add a little -water, sufficient to moisten them so that they can stew; add a little -sugar, and when tender thicken the water with some beaten-up egg. - - -BEANS, FRENCH, PLAIN BOILED.--French beans are only good when fresh -gathered, and the younger they are the better. When small they can be -boiled whole, in which case they only require the tips cut off and the -string that runs down the side removed. When they are more fully grown -they will require, in addition to being trimmed in this manner, to be cut -into thin strips, and when very old it will be found best to cut them -slanting. They must be thrown into boiling salted water, and boiled till -they are tender. The time for boiling varies with the age; very young ones -will not take more than a quarter of an hour, and if old ones are not -tender in half an hour they had better be made into a puree. As soon as -the beans are tender, drain them off, and serve them very hot; the chief -point to bear in mind, if we wish to have our beans nice, is, they must be -eaten directly they are drained from the water in which they are boiled. -They are spoilt by what is called being kept hot, and possess a marvellous -facility of getting cold in a very short space of time. - -In vegetarian cookery, when beans are eaten without being an accompaniment -to meat, some form of fat is desirable. When the beans are drained we can -add either butter or oil. When a lump of _Maitre d'hotel_ butter is added -they form what the French call _haricots vert a la Maitre d'hotel_. In -this case, a slight suspicion of garlic may be added by rubbing the -stew-pan in which the French beans are tossed together with the _Maitre -d'hotel butter_. When oil is added, a little chopped parsley will be found -an improvement, as well as pepper, salt, and a suspicion of nutmeg. - -French beans are very nice flavoured with oil and garlic, and served in a -border of macaroni. - - -FRENCH BEAN PUDDING.--When French beans are very old they are sometimes -made into a pudding as follows:--They must be trimmed, cut up, boiled, with -or without the addition of a few savoury herbs. They must be then mashed -in a basin, tied up in a well-buttered and then floured cloth, and boiled -for some time longer. The pudding can then be turned out. A still better -way of making a French bean pudding is to rub the beans through the wire -sieve, leaving the strings behind, flavouring the pudding with a few -savoury herbs, a little sugar, pepper, and salt, and, if liked, a suspicion -of garlic; add one or two well-beaten-up eggs, and put the mixture in a -round pudding-basin, and bake it till it sets. This can be turned out on -the centre of a dish, and a few young French beans placed round the base to -ornament it, in conjunction with some pieces of fried bread cut into pretty -shapes. - - -BROCOLI.--Trim the outer leaves off a brocoli, and cut off the stalk even, -so that it will stand upright. Soak the brocoli in salt and water for some -time, in order to get rid of any insects. Throw the brocoli into boiling -water that has been salted, and boil till it is tender, the probable time -for young brocoli being about a quarter of an hour. It should be served on -a dish with the flower part uppermost; and butter sauce, sauce Allemande, -or Dutch sauce can be served separately, or poured over the surface. - -When several heads of brocoli are served at once, it is important to cut -the stalks flat, as directed, before boiling. After they have been -thoroughly drained _upside down_, they should be placed on the dish, flower -part uppermost, and placed together as much as possible to look like one -large brocoli. If sauce is poured over them, the sauce should be -sufficiently thick to be spread, and every part of the flower should be -covered. Half a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley may be sprinkled -over the top, and improves the appearance of the dish. - -N.B.--We would particularly call attention to the importance of draining -brocoli and cauliflower very thoroughly, especially when any sauce is -served with the brocoli. When the dish is cut into, nothing looks more -disagreeable than to see the white sauce running off the brocoli into green -water at the bottom of the dish. - - -BROCOLI GREENS.--The outside leaves of brocoli should not be thrown away, -but eaten. Too often they are trimmed off at the greengrocer's or at the -market, and, we presume, utilised for the purpose of feeding cattle. They -can be boiled exactly like white cabbages, and are equal to them, if not -superior, in flavour. To boil them, _see_ CABBAGE, WHITE, LARGE. - - -BRUSSELS SPROUTS.--These must be first washed in cold water and all the -little pieces of decayed leaves trimmed away. Throw them into boiling -salted water; the water must be kept boiling the whole time, without a lid -on the saucepan, and if the quantity of water be sufficiently large not to -be taken off the boil by the sprouts being thrown in they will be sent to -table of a far brighter green colour than otherwise. In order to ensure -this, throw in the sprouts a few at a time, picking out the big ones to -throw in first. Sprouts, as soon as they are tender--probable time a -quarter of an hour--should be drained and served _quickly_. When served as -a dish by themselves, after being drained off, they can be placed in a -stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-juice. They -can then be served with toasted or fried bread. - - -CABBAGE, PLAIN BOILED.--Ordinary young cabbages should be first trimmed by -having the outside leaves removed, the stalks cut off, and then should be -cut in halves and allowed to soak some time in salt and water. They should -be thrown into plenty of boiling water; the water should be kept boiling -and uncovered. As soon as they are tender they should be strained off and -served immediately. Young summer cabbages will not take longer than a -quarter of an hour, or even less; old cabbages take nearly double that -time. It is impossible to lay down any exact rule with regard to time. -Savoys generally take about half an hour. The large white cabbages met -with in the West of England take longer and require a different treatment. - -When cabbage is served as a dish by itself it will be found a great -improvement to add either butter or oil to moisten the cabbage after it is -thoroughly drained off. In order to ensure the butter not oiling, but -adhering to the cabbage, it is best after the butter is added, and while -you mix it with the cabbage, to shake the flour-dredger two or three times -over the vegetable. In Germany, many add vinegar and sugar to the cabbage. - - -CABBAGE, LARGE WHITE.--In the West of England cabbages grow to an immense -size, owing, probably, to the moist heat, and have been exhibited in -agricultural shows over twenty pounds in weight and as big as an eighteen -gallon cask. These cabbages are best boiled as follows:--After being cut -up and thoroughly washed, it will be found that the greater part of the -cabbage resembles what in ordinary cabbage would be called stalk, and, of -course, the leaves vary very considerably in thickness from the hard stalk -end up to the leaf. Have plenty of boiling water ready salted, now cut off -the stalk part where it is thickest and throw this in first. Wait till the -water comes to the boil again and let it boil for a few minutes. Then -throw in the next thickest part and again wait till the water re-boils, and -so on, reserving the thin leafy part to be thrown in last of all. By this -means, and this only, do we get the cabbage boiled uniformly. Had we -thrown in all at once one of two things would be inevitable--either the -stalk would be too hard to be eaten or the leafy part over-boiled. A large -white cabbage takes about an hour to boil tender, and a piece of soda -should be added to the water. When the cabbage is well drained, it can be -served either plain or moistened, and made to look oily by the addition of -a piece of butter. As the cabbage is very white, the dish is very much -improved by the addition of a little chopped parsley sprinkled over the -top, not for the sake of flavour but appearance. - - -CABBAGE AND CREAM.--Ordinary cabbages are sometimes served stewed with a -little cream. They should be first parboiled, then the moisture squeezed -from them, and then they must be put in a stew-pan with a little butter, -pepper, salt and nutmeg, and a spoonful of flour should be shaken over the -cabbage in order to prevent the butter being too oily. When the cabbage is -stewed till it is perfectly tender, add a few spoonfuls of cream, stir up, -and make the whole thoroughly hot, and serve with fried or toasted bread. - - -CABBAGE, RED.--Red cabbages are chiefly used for pickling. They are -sometimes served fresh. They should be cut across so that the cabbage -shreds, boiled till they are tender, the moisture thoroughly extracted, and -then put into a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and a few -shakes of flour from the flour-dredger. After stirring for ten minutes or -a quarter of an hour, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them and serve. - - -CARROTS, BOILED.--When carrots are boiled and served as a course by -themselves, they ought to be young. This dish is constantly met with -abroad in early summer, but is rarely seen in England, except at the tables -of vegetarians. The carrots should be trimmed, thoroughly washed, and, if -necessary, slightly scraped, and the point at the end, which looks like a -piece of string, should be cut off. They should be thrown into fast -boiling water (salted) in order to preserve their colour. When tender they -can be served with some kind of good white sauce, or sauce Allemande or -Dutch sauce. Perhaps this latter sauce is best of all, as it looks like -rich custard. Part of the red carrot should show uncovered by any sauce. -They are best placed in a circle and the thick sauce poured in the centre; -a very little chopped blanched parsley can be sprinkled on the top of the -sauce. In making Dutch sauce for carrots use lemon-juice instead of -tarragon vinegar. - - -CARROTS, FRIED.--Fried carrots can be made from full-grown carrots. They -must be first parboiled and then cut in slices; they must then be dipped in -well-beaten-up egg, and then covered with fine dry bread-crumbs and fried a -nice brown in smoking hot oil in a frying-basket. The slices of carrot -should be peppered and salted before being dipped in the egg. - - -CARROTS, MASHED.--When carrots are very old they are best mashed. Boil -them for some time, then cut them up and rub them through a wire sieve. -They can be pressed in a basin and made hot by being steamed. A little -butter, pepper and salt should be added to the mixture. A very pretty dish -can be made by means of mixing mashed carrots with mashed turnips. They -can be shaped in a basin, and with a little ingenuity can be put into red -and white stripes. The effect is something like the top of a striped tent. - - -CAULIFLOWER, PLAIN BOILED.--Cauliflowers can be treated in exactly the same -manner as brocoli, and there are very few who can tell the difference. -(_See_ BROCOLI.) - - -CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.--This is a very nice method of serving cauliflower -as a course by itself. The cauliflower or cauliflowers should first be -boiled till thoroughly tender, very carefully drained, and then placed -upright in a vegetable-dish with the flower part uppermost. The whole of -the flower part should then be _masked_ (_i.e._, covered over) with some -thick white sauce. Allemande sauce or Dutch sauce will do. This is then -sprinkled over with grated Parmesan cheese and the dish put in the oven for -the top to brown. As soon as it _begins_ to brown take it out of the oven -and finish it off neatly with a salamander (a red-hot shovel will do), the -same way you finish cheese-cakes made from curds. - - -CAULIFLOWER AND TOMATO SAUCE.--Boil and place the cauliflower or flowers -upright in a dish as in the above recipe. Now mask all the flower part -very neatly, commencing round the edges first, with some tomato conserve -previously made warm, and serve immediately. This is a very pretty-looking -dish. - - -CELERY, STEWED.--The secret of having good stewed celery is only to cook -the white part. Throw the celery into boiling water, with only sufficient -water just to cover it. When the celery is tender use some of the water in -which it is stewed to make a sauce to serve with it, or better still, stew -the celery in milk. The sauce looks best when it is thickened with the -yolks of eggs. A very nice sauce indeed can be made by first thickening -the milk or water in which the celery is stewed with a little white roux, -and then adding a quarter of a pint of cream boiled separately. Stewed -celery should be served on toast, like asparagus; a little chopped blanched -parsley can be sprinkled over the white sauce by way of ornament, and fried -bread should be placed round the edge of the dish. - -Stewed celery can also be served with sauce Allemande or Dutch sauce. - - -ENDIVE.--Endive is generally used as a salad, but is very nice served as a -vegetable, stewed. White-heart endives should be chosen, and several heads -will be required for a dish, as they shrink very much in cooking. Wash and -clean the endives very carefully in salt and water first, as they often -contain insects. Boil them in slightly salted water till they are tender, -then drain them off, and thoroughly extract the moisture; put them in a -stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, let them stew for -some little time; add the juice of a lemon, and serve. It will make the -dish much prettier if you reserve one head of endive boiled whole. Place -the stewed endive on a dish, and sprinkle some chopped blanched parsley -over it, then place the single head of endive upright in the centre, and -place some fried bread round the edge. - - -LEEKS, STEWED.--Leeks must be trimmed down to where the green part meets -the white on the one side, and the root, where the strings are, cut off on -the other. They should be thrown into boiling water, boiled till they are -tender, and then thoroughly drained. The water in which leeks have been -boiled is somewhat rank and bitter, and, as the leeks are like tubes, in -order to drain them perfectly you must turn them upside down. They can be -served on toast, and covered with some kind of white sauce, either ordinary -white sauce, sauce Allemande, or Dutch sauce. - - -LEEKS, WELSH PORRIDGE.--The leeks are stewed and cut in slices, and served -in some of the liquor in which they are boiled, with toast cut in strips, -something like onion porridge. Boil the leeks for five minutes, drain them -off, and throw away the first water, and then stew them gently in some -fresh water. In years back, in Wales, French plums were stewed with and -added to the porridge. - - -LETTUCES, STEWED.--As lettuces shrink very much when boiled, allowance must -be made, and several heads used. This is also a very good way of utilising -the large old-fashioned English lettuce resembling in shape a gingham -umbrella. They should be first boiled till tender. The time depends -entirely upon the size. Drain them off, and thoroughly extract the -moisture; put them into a stew-pan, with a little butter, pepper, salt, and -nutmeg. Let them stew some little time, and add a little vinegar, or, -still better, lemon-juice. - - -LETTUCES STEWED WITH PEAS.--A border of stewed lettuces can be made as -above, and the centre filled up with some fresh-boiled young green peas. - - -ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED.--When onions are served as a dish by themselves, -Spanish onions are far best for the purpose. Ordinary onions, as a rule, -are too strong to be eaten, except as an accompaniment to some other kind -of food. When onions are plain boiled, they are best served on dry toast -without any sauce at all. Butter can be added when eaten on the plate if -liked. Large Spanish onions will require about three hours to boil tender. - - -ONIONS, BAKED.--Spanish onions can be baked in the oven. They are best -placed in saucers, with a very little butter to prevent them sticking, with -which they can also be basted occasionally. Probable time about three -hours. They should be of a nice brown colour at the finish. - - -ONIONS, STEWED.--Place a large Spanish onion in a saucer at the bottom of -the saucepan, and put sufficient water in the saucepan to reach the edge of -the saucer; keep the lid of the saucepan on tight, and let it steam till -tender. A large onion would take about three hours. The water from the -onion will prevent the necessity of adding fresh water from time to time. - - -PARSNIPS.--Like young carrots, young parsnips are often met with abroad as -a course by themselves. They should be trimmed and boiled whole, and -served with white sauce, Allemande sauce, or Dutch sauce; a little chopped -blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the sauce, and fried bread served -round the edge of the dish. - - -PARSNIPS, FRIED.--Boil some full-grown parsnips till they are tender, cut -them into slices, pepper and salt them, dip them into beaten-up egg, and -cover them with bread-crumbs, and fry these slices in some smoking hot oil -till they are a nice brown colour. - - -PARSNIPS, MASHED.--When parsnips are very old they are best mashed. Boil -them for an hour or more, then cut them up and rub them through a wire -sieve. The stringy part will have to be left behind. Mix the pulp with a -little butter, pepper, and salt; make this hot, and serve. A little cream -is a great improvement. - - -PARSNIP CAKE.--Boil two or three parsnips until they are tender enough to -mash, then press them through a colander with the back of a wooden spoon, -and carefully remove any fibrous, stringy pieces there may be. Mix a -teacupful of the mashed parsnip with a quart of hot milk, add a teaspoonful -of salt, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of yeast, and enough -flour to make a stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains the mixture in a -warm place, cover it with a cloth, and leave it to rise. When it has risen -to twice its original size, knead some more flour into it, and let it rise -again; make it into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and place -these on buttered tins. Let them stand before the fire a few minutes, and -bake them in a hot oven. They do not taste of the parsnip. Time, some -hours to rise; about twenty minutes to bake. - - -PEAS, GREEN.--By far the best and nicest way of cooking green peas when -served as a course by themselves is to stew them gently in a little butter -without any water at all, like they do in France. The peas are first -shelled, and then placed in a stew-pan with a little butter, sufficient to -moisten them. As soon as they are tender, which will vary with the size -and age of the peas, they can be served just as they are. The flavour of -peas cooked this way is so delicious that they are nicest eaten with plain -bread. When old peas are cooked this way it is customary to add a little -white powdered sugar. - - -PEAS, GREEN, PLAIN BOILED.--Shell the peas, and throw them into boiling -water slightly salted. Keep the lid off the saucepan and throw in a few -sprigs of fresh green mint five minutes before you drain them off. Young -peas will take about ten to twenty minutes, and full-grown peas rather -longer. Serve the peas directly they are drained, as they are spoilt by -being kept hot. - - -PEAS, STEWED.--When peas late in the season get old and tough, they can be -stewed. Boil them for rather more than half an hour, throwing them first -of all into boiling water; drain them off, and put them into a stew-pan -with a little butter, pepper, and salt. Young onions and lettuces cut up -can be stewed with them, but young green peas are far too nice ever to be -spoilt by being cooked in this way. - - -SCOTCH KALE.--Scotch kale, or curly greens, as it is sometimes called in -some parts of the country, is cooked like ordinary greens. It should be -washed very carefully, and thrown into fast-boiling salted water. The -saucepan should remain uncovered, as we wish to preserve the dark green -colour. Young Scotch kale will take about twenty minutes to boil before it -is tender. When boiled, if served as a course by itself, it should be -strained off very thoroughly and warmed in a stew-pan with a little butter, -pepper, and salt. - - -SEA KALE.--Sea kale possesses a very delicate flavour, and in cooking it -the endeavour should be to preserve this flavour. Throw the sea kale when -washed into boiling water; in about twenty minutes, if it is young, it will -be tender. Serve it on plain dry toast, and keep all the heads one way. -Butter sauce, white sauce, Dutch sauce, or sauce Allemande can be served -with sea kale, but should be sent to table separate in a boat, as the -majority of good judges prefer the sea kale quite plain. - - -SPINACH.--The chief difficulty to contend with in cooking spinach is the -preliminary cleansing. The best method of washing spinach is to take two -buckets of water. Wash it in one; the spinach will float on the top whilst -the dirt settles at the bottom. Lift the spinach from one pail, after you -have allowed it to settle for a few minutes, into the other pail. One or -two rinsings will be sufficient. Spinach should be picked if the stalks -are large, and thrown into boiling water slightly salted. Boil the spinach -till it is tender, which will take about a quarter of an hour, then drain -it off and cut it very small in a basin with a knife and fork, place it -back in a saucepan with a little piece of butter to make it thoroughly hot, -put it in a vegetable dish and serve. - -Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, or poached eggs, are usually served with -spinach. A little cream, nutmeg, and lemon-juice can be added. Many cooks -rub the spinach through a wire sieve. - - -VEGETABLE MARROW.--Vegetable marrows must be first peeled, cut open, the -pips removed, and then thrown into boiling water; small ones should be cut -into quarters and large ones into pieces about as big as the palm of the -hand. They take from fifteen to twenty minutes to boil before they are -tender. They should be served directly they are cooked and placed on dry -toast. Butter sauce or white sauce can be served with them, but is best -sent to table separate in a boat, as many persons prefer them plain. - - -VEGETABLE MARROWS, STUFFED.--Young vegetable marrows are very nice stuffed. -They should be first peeled very slightly and then cut, long-ways, into -three zigzag slices; the pips should be removed and the interior filled -with either mushroom forcemeat (_see_ MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT) or sage-and-onion -stuffing made with rather an extra quantity of bread-crumbs. The vegetable -marrow should be tied up with two separate loops of tape about a quarter of -the way from each end, and these two rings of tape tied together with two -or three separate pieces of tape to prevent them slipping off at the ends. -The forcemeat or stuffing should be made hot before it is placed in the -marrow. The vegetable marrow should now be thrown into boiling water and -boiled till it is tender, about twenty minutes to half an hour. Take off -the tape carefully, and be careful to place the marrow so that one half -rests on the other half, or else it will slip. - -N.B.--If you place the stuffing inside cold, the vegetable marrow will -break before the inside gets hot through. - - -TURNIPS, BOILED.--When turnips are young they are best boiled whole. Peel -them first very thinly, and throw them into cold water till they are ready -for the saucepan. Throw them into boiling water slightly salted. They -will probably take about twenty minutes to boil. They can be served quite -plain or with any kind of white sauce, butter sauce, sauce Allemande, or -Dutch sauce. In vegetarian cookery they are perhaps best served with some -other kind of vegetable. - - -TURNIPS, MASHED.--Old turnips are best mashed, as they are stringy. Boil -them till they get fairly tender; they will take from half an hour to two -hours, according to age; then rub them through a wire sieve and warm up the -pulp with a little milk, or still better, cream and a little butter; add -pepper and salt. - -N.B.--If the pulp be very moist let it stand and get rid of the moisture -gradually in a frying-pan over a very slack fire. - - -TURNIPS, ORNAMENTAL.--A very pretty way of serving young turnips in -vegetarian cookery is to cut them in halves and scoop out the centre so as -to form cups; the part scooped out can be mixed with some carrot cut up -into small pieces, and some green peas, and placed in the middle of a dish -in a heap; the half-turnips forming cups can be placed round the base of -the dish and each cup filled alternately with the red part of the carrot, -chopped small and piled up, and a spoonful of green peas. This makes a -very pretty dish of mixed vegetables. - - -TURNIP-TOPS.--Turnip-tops, when fresh cut, make very nice and wholesome -greens. They should be thrown into boiling water and boiled for about -twenty minutes, when they will be tender. They should then be cut up with -a knife and fork very finely and served like spinach. If rubbed through a -wire sieve and a little spinach extract mixed with them to give them the -proper colour, and served with hard-boiled eggs, there are very few persons -who can distinguish the dish from eggs and spinach. - - -VEGETABLE CURRY.--A border made of all kinds of mixed vegetables is very -nice sent to table with some good thick curry sauce poured in the centre. - - -NETTLES, TO BOIL.--The best time to gather nettles for eating purposes is -in the early spring. They are freely eaten in many parts of the country, -as they are considered excellent for purifying the blood. The young -light-green leaves only should be taken. They must be washed carefully and -boiled in two waters, a little salt and a very small piece of soda being -put in the last water. When tender, turn them into a colander, press the -water from them, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, score them across -three or four times, and serve. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. -Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil. - - -SALSIFY.--Scrape the salsify and throw it into cold water with a little -vinegar. Then throw it into boiling water, boil til tender, and serve on -toast with white sauce. Time to boil, about one hour. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS. - - -Vegetables and fruits are preserved in two ways. We can have them -preserved both in bottles and tins, but the principle is exactly the same -in both cases, the method of preservation being simply that of excluding -the air. We will not enter into the subject of how to preserve fruit and -vegetables, but will confine ourselves to discussing as briefly as possible -the best method of using them when they are preserved. - -Unfortunately there exists a very unreasonable prejudice on the part of -many persons against all kinds of provisions that are preserved in tins. -This prejudice is kept alive by stories that occasionally get into print -about families being poisoned by using tinned goods. We hear stories also -of poisoning resulting from using copper vessels. Housekeepers should -endeavour to grasp the idea that the evil is the result of their own -ignorance, and that no danger would accrue were they possessed of a little -more elementary knowledge of chemistry. If a penny be dipped in vinegar -and exposed to the air, and is then licked by a child, a certain amount of -ill effect would undoubtedly ensue, but it does not follow that we should -give up the use of copper money. So, too, if we use tinned goods, and -owing to our own carelessness or ignorance find occasionally that evil -results ensue, we should not give up the use of the goods in question, but -endeavour to find out the cause why these evil results follow only -occasionally. - -All good cooks know, or ought to know, that if they leave the soup all -night in a saucepan the soup is spoilt. Again, all housekeepers know that -although they have a metal tank, they are bound to have a wooden lid on -top, there being a law to this effect. The point they forget in using -tinned goods is this, so long as the air is excluded from the interior of -the tin no chemical action goes on whatever. When, therefore, they open -the tin, if they turn out the contents at once no harm can ensue. -Unfortunately, there are many thousands who will open a tin, take out what -they want, and _leave the remainder in the tin_. Of course, they have only -themselves to blame should evil result. - -Preserved vegetables are so useful that they are inseparable from civilised -cookery; for instance, what would a French cook do were he dependent for -his mushrooms upon these fresh grown in the fields? The standard dish at -vegetarian restaurants is mushroom pie, and, thanks to tinned mushrooms, we -can obtain this dish all the year round. In most restaurants peas are on -the bill of fare throughout the year. Were we dependent upon fresh grown -ones, this popular dish would be confined almost to a few weeks. - -In the case of preserved goods, tinned fruits are even more valuable than -tinned vegetables. Ripe apricots and peaches picked fresh from the tree -are expensive luxuries that in this country can only be indulged in by the -rich, whereas, thanks to the art of preserving, we are enabled to enjoy -them all the year round. We will run briefly through a few of the chief -vegetables and fruits, and give a few hints how to best use them. First of -all-- - - -ASPARAGUS, TINNED.--Place the tin in the saucepan with sufficient cold -water to cover it. Bring the water to a boil and let it boil for five -minutes; take out the tin and cut it open round the edge, as near to the -edge as possible, otherwise you will be apt to break the asparagus in -turning it out. Drain off the liquor and serve the asparagus on freshly -made hot toast. There is much less waste as a rule in tinned asparagus -than in that freshly cut. As a rule, you can eat nearly the whole of it. - - -PEAS, TINNED.--Put the tin before it is opened into cold water, bring the -water to a boil, and let it boil five minutes, or longer if the tin is a -large one. Cut open the tin at the top, pour out the liquor, and serve the -peas with a few sprigs of fresh mint, if it can be obtained, that have been -boiled for two or three minutes. Supposing the tin to contain a pint of -peas, add while the peas are thoroughly hot a brimming saltspoonful of -finely powdered sugar, and half a saltspoonful of salt. If the peas are to -be eaten by themselves, as is generally the case with vegetarians, add a -good-sized piece of butter. - - -FRENCH BEANS, TINNED.--These can be treated in exactly similar manner to -green peas, only, instead of adding mint, add a little chopped blanched -parsley; the same quantity of sugar and salt should be added as in the case -of peas. After the butter has melted, it is a great improvement, when the -beans are eaten as a course by themselves, with bread, if the juice of half -a lemon is added. - - -FLAGEOLETS, TINNED.--For this delicious vegetable, in England, we are -dependent upon tinned goods, as we cannot recall an instance in which they -can be bought freshly gathered. Warm up the beans in the tin by placing -the tin in cold water, bringing the water to a boil, and letting it boil -for five minutes. Drain off the liquor, add a saltspoonful of sugar, half -a one of salt, and a lump of butter. Instead of butter, you can add to -each pint two tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Many persons consider it a -great improvement to rub the vegetable-dish with a bead of garlic. In this -case the beans should be tossed about in the dish for a minute or two. - - -BRUSSELS SPROUTS, TINNED.--The tin should be made hot before it is opened, -the liquor drained off, and the sprouts placed in a dish, with a little -butter or oil, powdered sugar, salt, pepper, and a slight flavouring of -nutmeg. In France, in some parts, a little cream is poured over them. - - -SPINACH, TINNED.--Spinach is sold in tins fairly cheap, and, quoting from -the list of a large retail establishment where prices correspond with those -of the Civil Service Stores, a tin of spinach can be obtained for -fivepence-halfpenny. The spinach should be made very hot in the tin, -turned out on to a dish, and hard-boiled eggs, hot, cut in halves, added. -Some people add also a little vinegar, but, unless persons' tastes are -known beforehand, that is best added on the plate. - - -CARROTS, TINNED.--Young carrots can be obtained in tins, and, as only young -carrots are nice when served as a course by themselves, these will be found -a valuable addition to the vegetarian store-cupboard. Make the carrots hot -in the tin, and let the water boil, for quite ten minutes after it comes to -the boiling point. Drain off the liquor, and serve them with some kind of -white sauce exactly as if they were freshly boiled young carrots. - - -TURNIPS, TINNED.--Proceed exactly the same as in the case of carrots. - - -FOND D'ARTICHOKE.--These consist of the bottom part only of French -artichokes. They should be made hot in the tin, and served up with some -good butter sauce, and cut lemon separate, as many prefer the artichokes -plain. - - -MACEDOINES.--This, as the word implies, is a mixture of various vegetables, -the chief of which are generally chopped-up carrot and turnip with young -green peas. A very nice dish which can be served at a very short notice, -if you have curry sauce in bottles, is a dish of vegetable curry. The -macedoines should be made hot in the tin, the liquor drained off, and the -curry sauce, made hot, should be poured into a well made in the centre of -the macedoines in the dish. Macedoines are also very useful, as they can -be served as a vegetable salad at a moment's notice, as the vegetables are -sufficiently cooked without being made hot. - - -TINNED FRUITS.--Tinned fruits are ready for eating directly the tin is -opened. All we have to bear in mind is to turn them all out of the tin on -to a dish immediately. Do not leave any in the tin to be used at another -time. Most tinned fruits can be served just as they are, in a glass dish, -but a great improvement can be made in their appearance at a very small -cost and with a very little extra trouble if we always have in the house a -little preserved angelica and a few dried cherries. As these cost about a -shilling or one and fourpence per pound, and even a quarter of a pound is -sufficient to ornament two or three dozen dishes, the extra expense is -almost nil. - - -APRICOTS, TINNED.--Pile the apricots up, with the convex side uppermost, in -a glass dish, reserving one cup apricot to go on the top, with the concave -side uppermost. Take a few preserved cherries, and cut them in halves, and -stick half a cherry in all the little holes or spaces where the apricots -meet. Cut four little green leaves out of the angelica about the size of -the thumb-nail, only a little longer; the size of a filbert would perhaps -describe the size better. Put a whole cherry in the apricot cup at the -top, and four green leaves of angelica round it. Take the white kernel of -the apricot--one or two will always be found in every tin--and cut four -white slices out of the middle, place these round the red cherry, touching -the cherry, and resting between the four green leaves of angelica; the top -of this dish has now the appearance of a very pretty flower. - - -PEACHES, TINNED.--These can be treated in exactly a similar way to the -apricots. - - -PEACHES AND APRICOTS, WITH CREAM.--Place the fruit in a glass dish, with -the concave side uppermost; pour the syrup round the fruit, and with a -teaspoon remove any syrup that may have settled in the little cups, for -such the half-peaches or apricots may be called. Get a small jar of -Devonshire clotted cream; take about half a teaspoonful of cream, and place -it in the middle of each cup, and place a single preserved cherry on the -top of the cream. This dish can be made still prettier by chopping up a -little green angelica, like parsley, and sprinkling a few of these little -green specks on the white cream. - - -PINE-APPLE, TINNED.--Pine-apples are preserved in tins whole, and are very -superior in flavour to those which are sold cheap on barrows, which are -more rotten than ripe. They require very little ornamenting, but the top -is greatly improved by placing a red cherry in the centre, and cutting -eight strips of green angelica like spikes, reaching from the cherry to the -edge of the pine-apple. They should be cut in exact lengths, so as not to -overlap. The top of the pine-apple looks like a green star with a red -centre. - - -PEARS, TINNED.--Tinned pears are exceedingly nice in flavour, but the -drawback to them is their appearance. They look like pale and rather dirty -wax, while the syrup with which they are surrounded resembles the water in -which potatoes have been over-boiled. The prettiest way of sending them to -table is as follows:--Take, say a teacupful of rice, wash it very -carefully, boil it, and let it get dry and cold. Take the syrup from the -pears and taste it, and if not sweet enough add some powdered sugar. Put -the rice in a glass dish, and make a very small well in the centre, and -pour all the syrup into this, so that it soaks into the rice at the bottom -of the dish without affecting the appearance of the surface. In the -meantime, place the pears themselves on a dish, and let the syrup drain off -them, and if you can let them stand for an hour or two to let them dry all -the better. Now, with an ordinary brush, paint these waxy-looking pears a -bright red with a little cochineal, and place these half-pears on the white -rice, slanting, with the thick part downwards and the stalk end uppermost. -Cut a few sticks of green angelica about an inch and a half long and of the -thickness of the ordinary stalk of a pear, and stick one of these into the -stalk end of each pear. The red pear, with the green stalk resting on the -snow-white bed of rice, looks very pretty. A little chopped angelica can -be sprinkled over the white rice, like chopped parsley. - - -FRUITS, BOTTLED.--When apricots and peaches are preserved in bottles, they -can be treated exactly in a similar manner to those preserved in tins. It -will be found advisable, however, to taste the syrup in the bottle, as it -will be often found that it requires the addition of a little more sugar. -Ordinary bottled fruits, such as gooseberries, currants, raspberries, -rhubarb, damsons, cranberries, etc., can be used for making fruit pies, or -they can be sent to table simply as stewed fruit. In this case some -whipped cream on the top is a very great improvement. Another very nice -way of sending these bottled fruits to table is to fill a border made with -rice, as described in Chapter III. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS. - - -By vegetarian jelly we mean jellies made on vegetarian principles. To be -consistent, if we cannot use anchovy sauce because it is made from fish, on -the same principle we cannot use either gelatine or isinglass, which, of -course, as everybody knows, is made from fishes. For all this, there is no -reason why vegetarians should not enjoy jellies quite equal, so far as -flavour is concerned, to ordinary jelly. The simplest substitute for -gelatine, or what is virtually the same thing, isinglass, is corn-flour. -Tapioca could be used, but corn-flour saves much trouble. Some persons may -urge that it is not fair to give the name of jelly to a corn-flour pudding. -There is, however, a very great difference between a corn-flour pudding -flavoured with orange, and what we may call an orange jelly, in which -corn-flour is only introduced, like gelatine, for the purpose of -transforming a liquid into a solid. - -We also have this advantage in using corn-flour: it is much more simple and -can be utilised for making a very large variety of jellies, many of which, -probably, will be new even to vegetarians themselves. We are all agreed on -one point, _i.e._, the wholesomeness of freshly picked ripe fruit. We will -suppose the season to be autumn and the blackberries ripe on the hedgerows, -and that the children of the family are nothing loth to gather, say, a -couple of quarts. We will now describe how to make a mould of-- - - -BLACKBERRY JELLY.--Put the blackberries in an enamelled saucepan with a -little water at the bottom, and let them stew gently till they yield up -their juice, or they can be placed in a jar in the oven. They can now be -strained through a hair sieve, but, still better, they can be squeezed dry -in a tamis cloth. This juice should now be sweetened, and it can be made -into jelly in two ways, both of which are perfectly lawful in vegetarian -cookery. The juice, like red currant juice, can be boiled with a large -quantity of white sugar till the jelly sets of its own accord; in this case -we should require one pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and the result -would be a blackberry jelly like red currant jelly, more like a preserve -than the jelly we are accustomed to eat at dinner alone. For instance, no -one would care to eat a quantity of red currant jelly like we should -ordinary orange or lemon jelly--it would be too sickly; consequently we -will take a pint or a quart of our blackberry juice only and sufficient -sugar to make it agreeably sweet without being sickly. We will boil this -in a saucepan and add a tablespoonful of corn-flour mixed with a little -cold juice to every pint to make the juice thick. This can be now poured -into a mould or plain round basin; we will suppose the latter. When the -jelly has got quite cold we can turn it out on to a dish, say a silver -dish, with a piece of white ornamental paper at the bottom. We now have to -ornament this mould of blackberry jelly, and, as a rule, it will be found -that no ornament can surpass natural ones. Before boiling the blackberries -for the purpose of extracting their juice, pick out two or three dozen of -the largest and ripest, wash them and put them by with some of the young -green leaves of the blackberry plant itself, which should be picked as -nearly as possible of the same size, and, like the blackberries, must be -washed. Now place a row of blackberry leaves round the base of the mould, -with the stalk of the leaf under the mould, and on each leaf place a ripe -blackberry touching the mould itself. Take four very small leaves and -stick them on the top of the mould, in the centre, and put the largest and -best-looking blackberry of all upright in the centre. This dish is now -pretty-looking enough to be served on really great occasions. We consider -this dish worthy of being called blackberry jelly, and not corn-flour -pudding. - - -LEMON JELLY.--Take six lemons and half a pound of sugar, and rub the sugar -on the outside of three of the lemons; the lemons must be hard and yellow, -the peel should not be shrivelled. Now squeeze the juice of all six lemons -into a basin, add the sugar and a pint of water. Of course, the -lemon-juice must be strained. (If wine is allowed, add half a pint of good -golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring this to the boil and thicken it with some -corn-flour in the ordinary way, allowing a tablespoonful of corn-flour for -every pint of fluid. Pour it into a mould and when it is set turn it out. -A lemon jelly like this should be turned on to a piece of ornamental paper -placed at the bottom of a silver or some other kind of dish. The base of -the mould should be ornamented with thin slices of lemon cut in half, the -diameter touching the base of the mould and the semicircular piece of peel -outside. If a round basin has been used for a mould, place a corner of a -lemon on the top in the middle, surrounded with a few imitation green -leaves cut out of angelica. This improves the dish in appearance and also -shows what the dish is made of. - - -ORANGE JELLY.--Take six oranges, two lemons, and half a pound of lump -sugar; rub the sugar on the outside of three of the oranges, squeeze the -juice of the six oranges into a basin with the juice of two lemons, strain, -add the sugar and a pint of water. The liquid will be of an orange colour, -owing to the rind of the orange rubbed on to the sugar. (If wine be -allowed, add half a pint of golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring the liquid to -boiling point and then thicken it with corn-flour, and pour it while hot -into a mould or plain white basin; when cold, turn it out on to a piece of -ornamental paper placed at the bottom of a dish; surround the bottom of the -mould with thin slices of orange cut into quarters and the centre part -pushed under the mould; place the small end of an orange on the top of the -mould with some little leaves or spikes of green angelica placed round the -edge. - - -BLACK CURRANT JELLY.--The juice of black currants makes excellent jelly in -the ordinary way if we boil a pint of black currant juice with a pound of -sugar till it sets; but a mould of black currant jelly suitable to be used -as a sweet at dinner can be made by adding less sugar and thickening the -juice with corn-flour, allowing about a tablespoonful to every pint, and -pouring it into a mould or plain round basin. The mould can be ornamented -as follows, and we will suppose a pudding-basin to be used for the purpose. -We will suppose the mould of jelly to have been turned out on to a clean -sheet of white paper. Pick some of the brighter green black-currant leaves -off the tree, and place these round the base of the mould with the stalk of -the leaf pushed underneath and the point of the leaf pointing outwards. -Now choose a few very small bunches of black currants, wash these and dip -them into very weak gum and water, and then dip them into white powdered -sugar. They now look, when they are dry, as if they were crystallised or -covered with hoar-frost. Place one of these little bunches, with the stalk -stuck into the mould of jelly, about an inch from the bottom, so that each -bunch rests on a green leaf. Cut a small stick of angelica and stick it -into the top of the mould upright, and let a bunch of frosted black -currants hang over the top. If we wish to make the mould of jelly very -pretty as a supper dish, where there is a good top light, we can dip the -green leaves into weak gum and water and then sprinkle over them some -powdered glass. - - -RED CURRANT JELLY.--Red currant jelly can be made in exactly a similar -manner, substituting red currants for black. - - -RASPBERRY JELLY.--The raspberries should be picked very ripe, and two or -three dozen of the best-looking ones of the largest and ripest should be -reserved for ornamenting. If possible, also gather some red currants and -mix with the raspberries, on account of the colour, which otherwise would -be very poor indeed. It will be found best to rub the raspberries through -a hair sieve, as the addition of the pulp very much improves the flavour of -the jelly. The sieve should be sufficiently fine to prevent the pips of -the raspberries passing through it. The juice and pulp from the -raspberries and currants can now be thickened with corn-flour as directed -in the recipe for blackberry jelly. Raspberry leaves should be placed -round the base of the jelly and a ripe raspberry placed on each. The -best-looking raspberry can be placed on the top of the mould in the centre -of two or three raspberry leaves stuck in the jelly. - - -APPLE JAM AND APPLE JELLY.--The following recipe is taken from "A Year's -Cookery," by Phyllis Brown:--"The best time for making apple jelly is about -the middle of November. Almost all kinds of apples may be used for the -purpose, though, if a clear white jelly is wanted, Colvilles or -orange-pippins should be chosen; if red jelly is preferred, very -rosy-cheeked apples should be taken, and the skins should be boiled with -the fruit. Apple jam is made of the fruit after the juice has been drawn -off for jelly. Economical housekeepers will find that very excellent jelly -can be made of apple parings, so that where apples in any quantity have -been used for pies and tarts the skins can be stewed in sufficient water to -cover them, and when the liquor is strongly flavoured it can be strained -and boiled with sugar to a jelly. To make apple jelly, pare, core and -slice the apples and put them into a preserving-pan with enough water to -cover them. Stir them occasionally and stew gently till the apples have -fallen, then turn all into a jelly-bag and strain away the juice, but do -not squeeze or press the pulp. Measure the liquid and allow a pound of -sugar to a pint of juice. Put both juice and sugar back into the -preserving-pan, and, if liked, add one or two cloves tied in muslin, or two -or three inches of lemon-rind. Boil gently and skim carefully for about -half an hour, or till a little of the jelly put upon a plate will set. -Pour it while hot into jars, and when cold and stiff cover down in the -usual way. If yellow jelly is wanted a pinch of saffron tied in muslin -should be boiled with the juice. To make apple jam, weigh the apple pulp -after the juice has been drawn from it, rub it through a hair sieve, and -allow one pound of sugar to one pint of pulp, and the grated rind of a -lemon to three pints of pulp. Boil all gently together till the jam will -set when a little is put on a plate. Apple jam is sometimes flavoured with -vanilla instead of lemon." - - -DAMSON JELLY.--Damson jelly can be made in two ways. The juice can be -boiled with sugar till it gets like red currant jelly, or the juice of the -damsons can be sweetened with less sugar and thickened with corn-flour. In -order to extract the juice from damsons they should be sliced and placed in -a jar or basin and put in the oven. They are best left in the oven all -night. If the mould of jelly is made in a round basin, a single whole -damson can be placed on the top of the mould and green leaves placed round -the base. - - -PINE-APPLE JELLY.--The syrup from a preserved pine, should the pine-apple -itself be used for mixing with other fruits, or for ornamental purposes, -can be utilised by being made into a mould of jelly and by being thickened -with corn-flour. It will bear the addition of a little water. - - -APRICOT JELLY.--The juice from tinned apricots can be treated like that of -pine-apple. When a mixture of fruits is served in a large bowl, the syrup -from tinned fruits should not be added, but at the same time, of course, -should be used in some other way. - - -MULBERRY JELLY.--Mullberries, of course, would not be bought for the -purpose, but those who possess a mulberry tree in their garden will do well -to utilise what are called windfalls by making mulberry jelly. The juice -can be extracted by placing the fruit in a jar and putting it in the oven; -sugar must be added, and the juice thickened with corn-flour. There are -few other ways of using unripe mulberries. - - -JAMS.--Home-made jam is not so common now as it was some years back. As a -rule, it does not answer from an economical point of view to _buy_ fruit to -make jam. On the other hand, those who possess a garden will find -home-made jam a great saving. Those who have attempted to sell their fruit -probably know this to their cost. In making every kind of jam it is -essential the fruit should be picked dry. It is also a time-honoured -tradition that the fruit is best picked when basking in the morning sun. -It is also necessary that the fruit should be free from dust, and that all -decayed or rotten fruit should be carefully picked out. - -Jam is made by boiling the fruit with sugar, and it is false economy to get -common sugar; cheap sugar throws up a quantity of scum. Years back many -persons used brown sugar, but in the present day the difference in the -price of brown and white sugar is so trifling that the latter should always -be used for the purpose. The sugar should not be crushed. It is best to -boil the fruit before adding the sugar. The scum should be removed, and a -wooden spoon used for the purpose. A large enamel stew-pan can be used, -but tradition is in favour of a brass preserving-pan. It will be found -best to boil the fruit as rapidly as possible. The quantity of sugar -varies slightly with the fruit used. Supposing we have a pound of fruit, -the following list gives what is generally considered about the proper -quantity of sugar - -APRICOT JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -BLACKBERRY JAM.--Half a pound; if apple is mixed, rather more. - -BLACK CURRANT JAM.--One pound. - -RED CURRANT JAM.--One pound. - -DAMSON JAM.--One pound. - -GOOSEBERRY JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -GREENGAGE JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -PLUM JAM.--One pound. - -RASPBERRY JAM.--One pound. - -STRAWBERRY JAM.-Three-quarters of a pound. - -CARROT JAM.--If you wish the jam to be of a good colour, only use the -outside or red part of the carrots. Add the rind and the juice of one -lemon, and one pound of sugar to every pound of pulp; a little brandy is a -great improvement. - -RHUBARB JAM.--To every pound of pulp add three-quarters of a pound of -sugar, and the juice of one lemon and the rind of half a lemon. Essence of -almonds can be substituted for the lemon. - -VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.--Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every -pound of pulp. The jam can be flavoured either with ginger or lemon-juice. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESE-CAKES. - - -CREAMS.--Creams may be divided into two classes--whipped cream, flavoured -in a variety of ways, and the solid moulds of cream, which when turned out -look extremely elegant, but which when tasted are somewhat disappointing. -These latter moulds owe their firmness and consistency to the addition of -isinglass, and, as this substance is not allowed in vegetarian cookery, we -shall be able to dispense with cream served in this form, nor are we losers -by so doing. The ordinary mould of cream is too apt to taste like spongy -liver, and, so far as palate is concerned, is incomparably inferior to the -more delicate whipped creams. Just in the same way a good rich custard -made with yolks of eggs is spoilt by being turned into a solid custard by -the addition of gelatine. In order to have good whipped cream, the first -essential is to obtain pure cream. This greatly depends upon the -neighbourhood in which we live. In country houses, away from large towns, -there is as a rule no trouble, whereas in London really good cream can only -be obtained with great difficulty. There is a well-known old story of the -London milkman telling the cook who complained of the quality of the cream -to stir it up, as the cream settled at the bottom. We will not enter into -the subject of the adulteration of cream in big cities, as probably many of -these stories are gross exaggerations, though it is said that pigs' brains -and even horses' brains have been used for the purpose of giving the cream -a consistency, while undoubtedly turmeric has been used to give it a -colour. - -We will suppose that we have, say, a quart of really good thick cream. All -that is necessary is to beat up the cream with a whisk till it becomes a -froth. This is much more easily done in cold weather than in hot, and, if -the weather be very warm, it is best to put the tin or pan containing the -cream into ice an hour or two before it is used. Old French cookery-books -recommend the addition of a little powdered gum, not bigger than a pea, and -the gum recommended is that known as tragacanth. Others again beat up the -white of an egg to a stiff froth, and add this to the cream. It is a good -plan when the cream fails to froth completely to take off the top froth and -drain it on a sieve placed upside down. The cream that drains through can -be added to what is left and re-whipped. It is also a good plan to make -whipped cream some time before it is wanted, and, indeed, it can be -prepared with advantage the day before. When the cream is drained (we are -supposing a quart to have been used) it should be mixed with three or four -ounces of very finely powdered sugar, as well as the particular kind of -flavouring that will give the cream its name. For instance, we can have, -if liqueurs are allowed-- - - -MARASCHINO CREAM.--This is simply made by mixing a small glass of -maraschino with some whipped cream, properly sweetened. - - -COFFEE CREAM.--Make a very strong infusion of pure coffee that has been -roasted a high colour. It will be found best to re-roast coffee berries in -the oven if you have not got a proper coffee-roaster. Pound the berries in -a pestle and mortar, or grind them very coarsely; then make a strong -infusion with a very small quantity of water, and strain it till it is -quite bright. This is mixed with the whipped sweetened cream. - - -CHOCOLATE CREAM.--Take about two ounces of the very best chocolate and -dissolve it in a little boiling water; let it get cold, and then mix with -the whipped sweetened cream. - - -VANILLA CREAM.--Vanilla cream is nicest when a fresh vanilla pod is used -for the purpose, but a more simple process is to use a little essence of -vanilla. - - -ORANGE CREAM.--Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, and -pound this sugar very finely, and then mix it with the whipped cream. - - -LEMON CREAM.--Proceed exactly as in making orange cream, only substituting -lemon for orange. - - -STRAWBERRY CREAM.--The juice only of the strawberry should be used. This -juice should be mixed with the powdered sugar and then used for mixing with -the whipped cream. It is a mistake, in making creams, to have too much -flavouring. The juice of a quarter of a pound of ripe red strawberries -would be sufficient for a quart of cream. - - -PISTACHIO CREAM.--Take about half a pound of pistachio kernels, throw them -for a minute or two into boiling water, and then rub off the skins, -throwing them into cold water like you do in blanching almonds. Pound -these in a mortar with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix a -little spinach extract to give it a colour. Now mix this with the whipped -sweetened cream very thoroughly. This bright green cream makes a very -elegant dish. - - -CUSTARDS.--Good custard forms, perhaps, the best cold sweet sauce known. -It can be made very cheaply, and, on the other hand, it may be made in such -a manner as to be very expensive. We will first describe how to make the -most expensive kind of custard, as very often we can gather ideas from a -high-class model and carry them out in an inexpensive way. The highest -class custard is made by only using yolks of eggs instead of whole eggs, -and we can use cream in addition to milk. The great art in making custard -is to take care it does not curdle. Six yolks of eggs, half a pint of -milk, half a pint of cream, sweetened, would, of course, form a very -expensive custard. An ordinary custard can be made as follows:--Take four -large or five small eggs, beat them up very thoroughly, and add them -gradually to a pint of sweetened milk that has been boiled separately. In -order to thicken the custard, it is a good plan to put it in a jug and -stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the custard till it -is sufficiently thick. Custard can be flavoured in various ways. One of -the cheapest and perhaps nicest is to boil one or two bay-leaves in the -milk. Custard can also be flavoured by the addition of a small quantity of -the essence of vanilla; if you use a fresh pod vanilla, tie it up in a -little piece of muslin and have a string to it. This can be boiled in the -milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured, and this pod can be used over -and over again. Of course, as it loses its flavour, it will have to remain -in the milk longer. - - -CHEAP CUSTARD.--A very cheap custard can be made by adding to one pint of -boiled milk one well-beaten-up egg and one good-sized teaspoonful of -corn-flour. The milk should be first sweetened, and can be flavoured very -cheaply by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or by -having a few bay-leaves boiled in it. A rich yellow colour can be obtained -by using a small quantity of yellow vegetable colouring extract, which, -like the green colouring, is sold in bottles by all grocers. These bottles -are very cheap, as they last a long time. They simply give any kind of -pudding a rich colouring without imparting any flavour whatever, and in -this respect are very superior to saffron. - - -APPLE CUSTARD.--Good apple custard can only be made by using apples of a -good flavour. When apples are in season, this dish can be made fairly -cheaply, but it does not do to use those high-priced imported apples. Peel -and take out the cores of about four pounds of apples, and let these simmer -till they are quite tender in rather more than a pint of water. Add about -one pound of sugar, or rather less if the apples are sweet; add a little -powdered cinnamon, and mix all this with eight eggs, well beaten up; stir -the mixture very carefully in a saucepan, or better still in a good-sized -jug placed in a saucepan, till it begins to thicken. This custard is best -served in glasses, and a little cinnamon sugar can be shaken over the top. -Nutmeg may be used instead of cinnamon, and by many is thought superior. - - -CHEESE-CAKES.--Cheese-cakes can be sent to table in two forms, the one some -rich kind of custard or cream placed in little round pieces of pastry, or -we can have a so-called cheese-cake baked in a pie-dish, the edges only of -which are lined with puff paste. We can also have cheese-cakes very rich -and cheese-cakes very plain. The origin of the name cheese-cake is that -originally they were made from curds used in making cheese. Probably most -people consider that the cheese-cakes made from curds are superior, and in -the North of England, and especially in Yorkshire, where curds are exposed -for sale in the windows at so much a pound, very delicious cheese-cakes can -be made, but considerable difficulty will be experienced if we attempt to -make home-made curds from London milk. Curds are made by taking any -quantity of milk and letting it nearly boil, then throw in a little rennet -or a glass of sherry. The curds must be well strained. - - -CHEESE-CAKES FROM CURDS.--Take half a pound of curds and press the curds in -a napkin to extract the moisture. Take also six ounces of lump sugar, and -rub the sugar on the outside of a couple of oranges or lemons. Dissolve -this sugar in two ounces of butter made hot in a tin in the oven; mix this -with the curds, with two ounces of powdered ratafias and a little grated -nutmeg--about half a nutmeg to this quantity will be required; add also six -yolks of eggs. Mix this well together, and fill the tartlet cases, made -from puff paste, and bake them in the oven. It is often customary to place -in the centre of each cheese-cake a thin strip of candied peel. As soon as -the cheese-cakes are done, take them out of the oven, and if the mixture be -of a bad colour finish it off with a salamander, but do not let them remain -in the oven too long, so that the pastry becomes brittle and dried up. -These cheese-cakes can be made on a larger scale than the ordinary one so -familiar to all who have looked into a pastry-cook's window. Suppose we -make them of the size of a breakfast saucer, a very rich and delicious -cheese-cake can be made by adding some chopped dried cherries to the -mixture. Sometimes ordinary grocer's currants are added and the ratafias -omitted. Sultana raisins can be used instead of currants, and by many are -much preferred. - -This mixture can be baked in a shallow pie-dish and time edge of the dish -lined with puff paste, but cheese-cakes made from curds are undoubtedly -expensive. - - -CHEESE-CAKES FROM POTATOES.--Exceedingly nice cheese-cakes can be made from -remains of cold potatoes, and can be made very cheap by increasing the -quantity of potatoes used. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, -two fresh lemons, and half a pound of lump sugar. First of all rub off all -the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar; oil the butter in a tin in the -oven and melt the sugar in it; squeeze the juice of the two lemons, and -take care that the sugar is thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix -all the ingredients together. Now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix -the whole in a basin. This now forms a very rich mixture indeed, a -good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the interior of an -ordinary-sized cheese-cake, but a far better plan is to make a large -cheese-cake, or rather cheese-cake pudding, in a pie-dish by adding cold -boiled potatoes. The plainness or richness of the pudding depends entirely -upon the amount of potatoes added. The pie-dish can be lined with a little -puff paste round the edge, if preferred, or the pudding can be sent to -table plain. It should be baked in the oven till the top is nicely -browned. It can be served either hot or cold, but, in our opinion, is -nicer cold. If the lemons are very fresh and green--if the pudding is sent -to table _hot_--you will often detect the smell of turpentine. If a _large -quantity_ of potatoes is added more sugar will be required. - - -ORANGE CHEESE-CAKE.--Proceed exactly as above, only substituting two -oranges for two lemons. - - -ALMOND CHEESE-CAKES.--Proceed exactly as above, only instead of rubbing the -sugar on the outside of lemons add a small quantity of essence of almonds. - - -APPLE CHEESE-CAKES.--Apple cheese-cakes can be made in a similar manner to -apple custard, the only difference being that the mixture is baked till it -sets. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES. - - -There are few articles of diet more wholesome than fruit, in every shape, -provided it is _fresh_. It is a great mistake, however, to suppose that -fruit, when too stale to be eaten as it is, is yet good enough for stewing. -We often hear, especially in summer weather, of persons being made ill from -eating fruit. Probably in every case the injury results, not from eating -fruit as fruit, but from eating it when it is too stale to be served as an -article of food at all. There is an immense amount of injury done to this -country by the importation of rotten plums, more especially from Germany, -and it is to be regretted that more stringent laws are not made to prevent -the importation of all kinds of food hurtful to health. - -We will suppose that in every recipe we are about to give the fruit is at -any rate fresh; we do not say ripe, because there are many instances in -which fruit not ripe enough to be eaten raw is exceedingly wholesome when -stewed properly and sweetened. As an instance we may mention green -gooseberries and hard greengages, which, though quite uneatable in their -natural state, yet make delicious fruit pies or dishes of stewed fruit. Of -all dishes there are few to equal what is called a compote of fruit, and -there are probably few sweets more popular than-- - - -COMPOTE OF FRUIT.--A compote of fruit consists of a variety of fresh fruits -mixed together in a bowl. Some may be stewed and some served in their -natural state, or the whole may be stewed. When a large variety of fruits -can be obtained, and are sent to table in an old-fashioned china family -bowl, few dishes present a more elegant appearance, especially if you -happen to possess an old-fashioned punch ladle, an old silver bowl with a -black whalebone handle. Care should be taken to keep the fruit from being -broken. The following fruits will mix very well, although, of course, it -is impossible always to obtain every variety. We can have strawberries, -raspberries, red, white, and black currants, and cherries, as well as -peaches, nectarines, and apricots. We can also have stewed apples and -stewed pears. Very much, of course, will depend upon the time of year. -Those fruits that want stewing should be placed in some hot syrup -previously made, and only allowed to stew till tender enough to be eaten. -Tinned fruits, especially apricots, can be mixed with fresh fruits, only it -is best not to use the syrup in the tin, as it will probably overpower the -flavour of the other fruits. The syrup, as far as possible, should be -bright and not cloudy. The fruit in the bowl should be mixed, but should -not be stirred up. We should endeavour as much as possible to keep the -colours distinct. If strawberries or raspberries form part of the compote, -the syrup will get red. Should black currants be present, avoid breaking -them, as they spoil the appearance of the syrup. In summer the compote of -fruits is much improved by the addition of a lump of ice and a glass of -good old brandy. Should the compote of fruits, as is often the case, be -intended for a garden party, where it will have to stand a long time, if -possible get a small bowl, like those in which gold and silver fish are -sold in the street for sixpence, and fill this with ice and place it in the -middle of the larger bowl containing fruit, otherwise the melted ice will -utterly spoil the juice that runs from the fruit, which is sweetened with -the syrup and flavoured with the brandy. If much brandy be added, old -ladies at garden parties will be found to observe that the juice is the -best part of it. - - -APPLES, STEWED.--Peel and cut out the cores of the apples, and stew them -gently in some syrup composed of about half a pound of white sugar and -rather more than a pint of water. A small stick of cinnamon, or a few -cloves, and a strip of lemon-peel can be added to the syrup, but should be -taken out when finished. The apples should be stewed till they are tender, -but must not be broken. The syrup in which the apples are stewed should of -course be served with them. This syrup can be coloured slightly with a few -drops of cochineal, but should not be coloured more than very slightly. -The syrup looks a great deal better if it is clear and bright. It can be -strained and clarified. Apples are very nice stewed in white French wine, -such as Chablis or Graves. - - -STEWED PEARS.--Pears known as cooking pears take a long time to stew. They -should be peeled and the cores removed, and then stewed very gently in a -syrup composed of half a pound of sugar to about a pint and a half of -water; add a few cloves to the syrup, say two cloves to each pear. The -pears will probably take from two to three hours to stew before they are -tender. When tender add a glass of port wine and a little cochineal. If -the pears are stewed, like they are abroad, in claret, add cinnamon instead -of the cloves. - - -STEWED RHUBARB.--Stewed rhubarb is of two kinds. When it first comes into -season it is small, tender, and of a bright red colour, and when stewed -makes a very pretty dish. The red rhubarb should be cut into little pieces -about two inches long. Very little water will be required, as the fruit -contains a great deal of water in itself. The amount of sugar added -depends entirely upon taste. The stewed rhubarb should be sent to table -unbroken, and floating in a bright red juice. - -When rhubarb is old and green it is best served more like a puree, or -mashed. Very old rhubarb is often stringy, and can with advantage be -rubbed through a wire sieve. It is no use attempting to colour old rhubarb -red, but you can improve its colour by the addition of a very little -spinach extract. A few strips of lemon-peel can be stewed with old -rhubarb, but should never be added to young red rhubarb. - - -GOOSEBERRIES, STEWED.--Young green gooseberries stewed, strange to say, -require less sugar than ripe gooseberries. It is best to stew the fruit -first, and add the sugar afterwards. The amount of sugar varies very much -with the quality of the gooseberries. - - -PRUNES, STEWED.--The prunes should be washed before they are stewed. They -will not take more than half an hour to stew, and a strip of lemon-peel -should be placed in the juice. Stewed prunes are much improved by the -addition of a little port wine. - - -PLUMS, STEWED.--Stewed plums, such as black, ordinary, or greengages, or -indeed any kind of stone fruit, can be stewed in syrup, and have this -advantage--plums can be used this way which could not be eaten at all if -they were raw. These fruits are much nicer cold than hot. In many cases, -in stewing stone fruit (and this applies particularly to peaches, apricots, -and nectarines), the stones should be removed and cracked and the kernels -added to the fruit. - - -CHERRIES, STEWED.--Large white-heart cherries form a very delicate dish -when stewed. Very little water should be added, and the syrup should be -kept as white as possible, and, if necessary, strained. Stew the cherries -till they are tender, but do not let them break. Colour the syrup with a -few drops of cochineal, and add a glass of maraschino. - - -ICES.--Ices are too often regarded as expensive luxuries, and show how -completely custom rules the majority of our housekeepers. There are many -houses where the dinner may consist daily of soup, fish, entrees, joint, -game, and wine, and yet, were we to suggest a course of ices, the worthy -housekeeper would hesitate on the ground of extravagance. It is difficult -to argue with persons whose definition of economy is what they have always -been accustomed to since they were children, and whose definition of -extravagance is anything new. The fact remains, however, that there is -many a worthy signor who sells ices in the streets at a penny each, and -manages to make a living out of the profit not only for himself, but for -his signora as well. Under these circumstances, the manufacture of these -"extravagances" is worthy of inquiry. Ices can be made at home very -cheaply with an ice machine, which can now be obtained at a, comparatively -speaking, small cost. With a machine there is absolutely no trouble, and -directions will be given with each machine, so that any details here, which -vary with the machine, will be useless. Ices can be made at home without a -machine with a little trouble, and, to explain how to do this, it is -necessary to explain the theory of ice-making, which is exceedingly simple. -We will not allude to machines dependent on freezing-powders, but to those -which rely for their cold simply on ice and salt mixed. We will suppose we -want a lemon-water ice, _i.e._, we have made some very strong and sweet -lemonade, and we want to freeze it. It is well known that water will -freeze at a certain temperature, called freezing-point. By mixing chopped -ice and salt and a very little water together, a far greater degree of cold -can be immediately produced, viz., a thermometer would stand at 32 degrees -below freezing-point were it to be plunged into this mixture. An ice -machine is a metal pail placed in another pail much larger than itself. -The "sweet lemonade" is placed in the middle pail, and chopped ice and salt -placed outside it. The proportion of ice to salt should be double the -weight of the former to the latter. It is now obvious that if we have -filled two pails, the one with "the sweet lemonade," and the other with the -ice and salt, very soon our lemonade will be a solid block of ice. To -prevent this it must be constantly stirred, and, as the lemonade would of -course freeze first against the sides of the pail, these sides must be -constantly scraped. Inside the inner pail, consequently, there is a -stirrer, which, by means of a handle, continually scrapes the side of the -pail. It is obvious that if the stirrer is fixed, and the pail itself made -to revolve, that is the same as if the pail were fixed and the stirrer made -to revolve. To make lemon-water ice, therefore, place the lemonade in the -inner pail, surrounded with chopped ice and salt, two parts of the former -to one of the latter, turn the handle, and in a few minutes the ice is -made. Now, suppose you have not got a machine, proceed as follows: Take an -empty, clean, round coffee-tin (the larger the better). [We mention -coffee-tin as the most probable one to be in the house, but any round tin -will do.] Get a clean piece of wood, the same width as the inside diameter -of the tin, only it must be a great deal longer. We will suppose the tin -rather more than a foot deep and five inches in diameter. Our piece of -wood, which should be clean and smooth, must be nearly five inches wide, -say a quarter of an inch thick, and about two feet long. Next get a small -tub, say nine inches deep, place the round tin in the middle, with the -sweet lemonade inside; next place the piece of wood upright in the tin, so -that the wood touches the bottom. Next surround the tin with chopped ice -and salt up to the edge of the tub, fill it as high as you can, and then -cover it round with a blanket, _i.e._, cover the ice and salt. Now get -someone to hold the wooden board steady; take the tin in your two hands, -and turn it round and round, first one way and then another. In a very -short time you will find the tin to contain lemon-water ice. The following -hints, rather than recipes, for making ices, _i.e._, for making the liquid, -which must be frozen as directed above, are given, not because they are the -best recipes, but because cream, which is the basis of all first-class -ices, is often too expensive to be used constantly. Of course, real cream -is far superior to any substitute. - - -ICE CREAM, CHEAP.--Make a custard (_see_ CUSTARD) with half a pint of milk, -the yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoonful of Swiss milk and some sugar. -As soon as it gets a little thick, stir it till it is nearly cold, then add -some essence of vanilla or almonds, or a wineglassful of noyeau, or any -flavouring wished, and freeze. - - -ICES FROM FRESH FRUITS.--Take half a pound of fresh strawberries or -raspberries, add half that weight of sugar, pound thoroughly, rub through a -sieve, and mix with this thick juice, rubbed through, half a pint of the -mixture made for ice cream (_see_ ICE CREAM, CHEAP), only, of course, -without any flavouring such as vanilla, etc. Mix thoroughly, and freeze. - -N.B.--A few red currants should be mixed with the raspberries. Should the -colour be poor, brighten it up before freezing with a little cochineal. - - -ICES FROM JAM.--Mix a quarter of a pound of any jam with half a pint of the -mixture made for ice cream (_see_ ICE CREAM, CHEAP), without any flavouring -such as vanilla. Rub all through a fine sieve, and freeze. Cochineal will -give additional colour to red jams; spinach extract to green jams; and a -very little turmeric, or yellow vegetable colouring, to yellow jams. A -small pinch of turmeric can be boiled in the milk. - - -ICE, LEMON-WATER.--Rub six lumps of sugar on the rind of six lemons, add -this and the juice of six lemons to a pint of fairly sweet syrup. The -amount of sugar is a matter of taste. Strain and freeze. Some persons add -a few drops of dilute sulphuric acid. - - -ICE, ORANGE-WATER.--Act exactly as in lemon-water, using oranges instead of -lemons, and syrup containing less sugar. - - -ICE, WATER FRUIT.--All sorts of water fruit ices can be made by mixing half -a pint of juice, such as currant-juice, with twice that quantity of syrup, -and freezing. Grated ripe pine-apple, pounded and bruised, ripe cherries -and greengages, strawberry-juice, raspberry-juice, can be mixed with syrup -and frozen. Sometimes a little lemon-juice can be added with advantage, -and in the case of cherry ice and greengage ice a little noyeau added is an -improvement. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -CAKES AND BREAD. - - -In vegetarian cookery there is no difference, as far as cake-making is -concerned, between it and ordinary cookery. In making cakes we will -confine our attention chiefly to general principles which, if once known, -render cake-making of every description comparatively easy work. Those who -wish for detailed _recipes_ for making almost every kind of cake known will -find all that they require on a large scale in "Cassell's Dictionary of -Cookery," and also everything necessary on a smaller scale in "Cassell's -Shilling Cookery," which has already reached its hundred-thousandth -edition. - -Cakes may be divided into two classes--those that contain fruit and those -that do not. Plum cakes can be made very rich indeed, like a wedding cake, -or so plain that it can scarcely be distinguished from a loaf of bread with -a few currants in it. Again, cakes that contain no fruit can, at the same -time, be made exceedingly rich, the richness chiefly depending upon the -amount of butter and eggs that are used. We will first give a few -directions with regard to making what may be termed plain cakes, _i.e._, -cakes that contain no fruit at all. Perhaps the best model we can give to -illustrate the general principles will be that of a pound cake. The recipe -is a very easy one to recollect, as a pound cake means one that is made -from a pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of eggs, and a pound of -flour. There is one addition, however, which the good plain cook will -probably not be up to, and which, so far as flavour is concerned, makes all -the difference between Francatelli and "Jemima Ann"--we must rub some of -the lumps of sugar on the outsides of either two oranges or two lemons. It -is also a great improvement to add a small glass of brandy, and in every -kind of cake we must add a pinch of salt. - -In making cakes it is always necessary to be careful about the butter. It -is best to put the butter in cold water before it is used, and, if salt -butter, it should be washed in several waters to extract the salt. The -next thing necessary is to beat the butter to a cream. To do this it must -be worked about in a basin with a wooden spoon. The basin should be a -strong one, and a wooden spoon is far preferable to a metal one. You -simply beat the butter and spread it against the sides of the basin and -knock it about till it loses its consistency. You cannot beat the butter -to the consistency of ordinary cream, but to a state more resembling -Devonshire clotted cream. Of course, when it is like this it is much more -easily mixed with the other ingredients. In making a pound cake we should -first of all beat the butter to a cream and then add flour, sugar, and eggs -gradually. When the whole is thoroughly well mixed together, we must bake -it in a tin, or mould, or hoop. We need say nothing about tins or moulds, -but will confine ourselves to giving directions how to bake a cake in a -hoop, for, as a rule, ordinary English cooks do not understand how to use -them. - -One great advantage of using a hoop is that when the cake is baked there is -no fear of breaking it in turning it out. A very simple hoop can be made -with an ordinary slip of tin, say six inches wide; as the tin will lap -over, the cake can be made any size round you wish. It is a good plan to -fasten a piece of copper wire round the outside of the tin. This can be -twisted, and when the cake is baked and has got cold can be untwisted, and -the tin will then open of its own accord. The tin must be lined with -buttered paper, and buttered paper must be placed on a flat piece of tin at -the bottom. When an "amateur hoop" is used like we have described, care -must be taken that the cake does not come out at the bottom. The cake, -especially when it is made with beaten-up eggs, like sponge cake, will -rise, and unless precautions are taken the tin will rise with it, and the -unset portion of the cake break loose round the edge at the bottom. To -prevent this the tin must be kept down with a weight at the top. In a -proper hoop made for the purpose there are appliances for fastening the -hoop together itself and also for keeping it in its place, but if we use a -strip of tin we must place something across the tin on the top and then put -on a heavy weight. When this is done, you must remember to allow room for -the cake to rise. A pound cake such as we have described can be made into -a rich fruit cake by adding stoned raisins, currants, chopped candied peel, -sultana raisins, or, better still, dried cherries. In making ordinary -cakes, when currants are used, they should be first washed and then dried; -if you use damp currants the cake will probably be heavy. - -With regard to the flour, it is cheapest in the end to use the best -quality, and the flour should be dried and sifted. If you weigh the flour -remember to dry and sift it before you weigh it, and not after. In using -sugar get the best loaf; this should also be pounded and sifted. - -In using eggs, of course each egg should be broken separately. Very often -it is necessary to separate the yolks from the whites. This requires some -little skill; you are less likely to break the yolk when you crack the egg -boldly. Put the yolk from one half egg-shell into the other half, spilling -as much of the white as you can. You will soon get the yolks separate. -Next, remember before mixing the eggs to remove the thread or string from -them. When the whites are beaten separately, you must whisk them till they -become a solid froth; no liquid should remain at the bottom of the basin. -The yolks should not be broken till they are wanted. - -Lemon-peel is often used in making cakes, and in chopping it a little -powdered sugar is a great assistance in preventing the peel sticking -together. Remember only to use the _yellow_ part, not the white. The -white part gives the cake a bitter flavour. - -Sometimes milk or cream is used in cake-making. If Swiss milk is used as a -substitute, remember that less sugar will be required. - -When pounded almonds are used for cakes, the almonds must be blanched by -being thrown, first into boiling water, and then into cold water. In -pounding them, add a little rose-water or orange-flower water, or the white -of an egg, to prevent the almonds getting oily. - -Nearly all plain cakes, where only a few eggs are used, will be made -lighter by the addition of a little baking-powder. A very good -baking-powder is made by mixing an ounce of tartaric acid with an ounce and -a half of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. The -baking powder should be kept very dry. - -A very nice way of making home-made cakes is to use some dough, which can -be procured from the baker's. Suppose you have a quartern of dough, put it -in a basin, cover it over with a cloth, and put it in front of the fire to -rise, then spread it on a floured pastry-board, slice it up, and work in -half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, a -teaspoonful of salt, and half an ounce of caraway seeds. When all the -ingredients are thoroughly mixed, place them in two or more well-buttered -tins or hoops, and let them stand in front of the fire a little while -before they are placed in the oven. Cakes can be flavoured with a variety -of spices, such as cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, or powdered coriander seeds. -These last are always used to give a special flavour to hot cross buns. - - -BREAD.--Home-made bread is not so much used now as it was years back. Most -housekeepers have found by experience that it is a waste both of time and -money. There are very few houses among the middle classes which possess an -oven capable of competing with any chance of success with a baker's oven. -There are, however, many vegetarians who believe in what is called -whole-meal bread. A good deal of the whole-meal bread sold as such has -been found to be adulterated with substances very unwholesome to ordinary -stomachs. We may mention saw-dust as one of the ingredients used for the -purpose. Again, if you attempt to make whole-meal bread into loaves, you -will find great difficulty in baking the loaves. This whole-meal is a very -slow conductor of heat, and the result will probably be that the outside of -the loaf will be very hard while the inside will be too underdone to be -eaten. Consequently, should you wish to have home-made whole-meal bread, -it is far best to bake it in the form of a tea-cake or flat-cake. We -cannot do better, in conclusion, than quote what Sir Henry Thompson says on -this subject:--"The following recipe," he says, "will be found successful, -probably, after a trial or two, in producing excellent, light, friable, and -most palatable bread: To two pounds of coarsely ground or crushed -whole-meal, add half a pound of fine flour and a sufficient quantity of -baking powder and salt; when these are well mixed, rub in two ounces of -butter, and make into dough with half milk and water, or with all milk if -preferred. Make rapidly into flat cakes like 'tea-cakes,' and bake without -delay in a quick oven, leaving them afterwards to finish thoroughly at a -lower temperature. The butter and milk supply fatty matters, in which the -wheat is somewhat deficient; all the saline and mineral matters of the husk -are retained; and thus a more nutritive form of bread cannot be made. -Moreover, it retains the natural flavour of the wheat, in place of the -insipidity which is characteristic of fine flour, although it is -indisputable that bread produced from the latter, especially in Paris and -Vienna, is unrivalled for delicacy, texture, and colour. Whole meal may be -bought; but mills are now cheaply made for home use, and wheat may be -ground to any degree of coarseness desired." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -PIES AND PUDDINGS. - - -In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made in the same -way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception that we cannot use lard or -dripping in making our pastry. Nor are we allowed to use suet in making -crust for puddings. It would have been quite impossible to have given even -one quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, and we must -refer those who wish for information on this subject to "Cassell's Shilling -Cookery," where will be found a very complete list, but which would have -occupied the whole of the space which we have devoted to recipes where -vegetarian cookery, as a rule, _differs_ from the ordinary. - -We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to the two points -we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry without lard or dripping, and -pudding crust without suet. The first of these two points causes no -difficulty whatever, as the best pastry, especially that known as puff -paste, is invariably made with butter only as the fatty element; but there -is one point we must not overlook. - -Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use the animal -products--butter, milk, cream, and eggs--and those who do not. This latter -class contains, probably, the most respected members of the vegetarian -body, as it will always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid -by all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to make pastry, -butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We fear we cannot tell them -how to make good puff paste; but "Necessity is the mother of invention," -and naturally olive oil must supply the place of butter. - - -PASTRY WITHOUT BUTTER.--We will describe how to make a small quantity, -which is always best when we make experiments. Take half a pound of the -best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a salt-spoonful of -baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, and work the -oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a small piece -of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff paste. Next -add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; roll it out -and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the method used -in making high-class pastry. - -We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is used more oil may -be added. - -We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature than water, -consequently the minute particles of oil become partially solid. Now take -the paste, roll it out, and give it three turns; roll it out again, give it -three more turns, and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be careful to -flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By this means we get the -pastry in thin layers, with minute air bubbles between them, and this will -cause the pastry to rise. If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the -last time, cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the -pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a very cold -place. - -This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be utilised for -puddings, in which latter case we would recommend the addition of a little -more baking-powder, and to every pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of -very fine bread-crumbs. These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine -sieve. - - -PASTRY WITH BUTTER.--Good puff paste is made by taking equal quantities of -butter and flour--say a pound of each--the yolk of one egg, a pinch of -salt, while the water used is acidulated with lemon-juice. For the -manipulation of this pastry we must refer those who do not know how to make -it to other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. In -making ordinary paste we must use less butter; and when we use considerably -less butter, if we wish the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder. -The quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many persons make their -own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend any better than the recipe given -in the last chapter, viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half -of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A great -deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna flour is much -more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably superior. What limit -we can assign to the quantity of butter used it is impossible to say. A -quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of -baking-powder, will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the result -is not altogether satisfactory. - - -PUDDINGS.--We next come to the very large class of puddings in which suet -is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case in point. The best -substitute for suet, of course, is butter or oil; a plum pudding, however, -made without suet, would undoubtedly be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must -use butter, bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to -give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients. -Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum pudding, and no flour, in -which case, of course, a very considerable number of eggs must be used or -else the pudding will break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being -used as a substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the -oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted English -prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, and it has often been -remarked by high-class authorities that really pure butter ought to be the -same. We fear, however, that purity in food is the exception rather than -the rule, as at no period of this country's history has the crime of -adulteration been so rampant as in the present day. - -Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. Too often -adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. Steps have been taken in -recent years to put a stop to this universal system of fraud, more -especially in connection with butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the -"Margarine Act" we believe that this country would be richer and happier, -and without doubt more healthy. - -In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, cabinet pudding, -there is no difference whatever in vegetarian cookery. It would be quite -impossible to make any of these puddings without eggs, and when eggs are -used we may take for granted that butter is allowed also. - -We have, throughout, called particular attention to the importance of -appearances. In the case of all puddings made with eggs and baked in a -dish, it is a very great improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg, -and to beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar. -When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white froth, and let it -set by placing it in a slack oven for two or three minutes. Whether the -pudding is served hot or cold, the result is the same. An otherwise plain -and somewhat common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the -only extra expense being a little _trouble_. - -We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: "Whatsoever thy hand -findeth to do, do it with thy might." - - - - -INDEX. - - -Allemande Sauce, 44 - -Almond Cheesecakes, 170 - Fritters, 119 - Sauce, 44 - Sauce, Clear, 45 - Soup, 23 - -Apple Cheesecakes, 170 - Custard, 168 - Fritters, 118 Jam, 161 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - -Apples, Stewed, 172 - -Apricot Fritters, 119 - Jam, 164 - Jelly, 163 - -Apricots Tinned, 155 - with Cream, 156 - -Aromatic Herbs, 32 - -Arrowroot Sauce, 45 - -Artichokes, French, 137 - a la Provencale, 137 - Boiled, 137 - Fried, 137 - Salad, 102 - -Artichoke, Jerusalem, 137 - Fried, 138 - Mashed, 138 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - -Asparagus and Eggs, 85 - Boiled, 139 - Salad, 101 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - Tinned, 153 - -Ayoli, 115 - - -Baking-Powder, 180 - -Banana Fritters, 119 - -Barley and Rice Porridge, 75 - Soup, 25 - -Batter for Fritters, 116 - -Beans, Broad, 139 - a la Bourgeoise, 139 - a la Poulette, 139 - Mashed, 139 - Salad, 103 - Soup, 27 - -Beans, French, 139 - Pudding, 140 - Salad, 102 - Soup, 27 - Tinned, 154 - -Beans, Haricot, 131 - Salad, 103 - Soup, Red, 26 - Soup, White, 26 - -Beetroot Salad, 102 - Soup, 26 - -Beurre Noir, 48 - -Blackberry Jam, 164 - Jelly, 158 - -Black Butter, 48 - and Eggs, 86 - -Black Currant Jam, 164 - Jelly, 160 - Sauce, 45 - -Bread, 180 - and Milk, 75 - Potato, 129 - Sauce, 45 - Whole-Meal, 180 - -Brocoli, 141 - Greens, 141 - -Brown Mushroom Sauce, 55 - Onion Sauce, 55 - -Brown Roux, 22 - Thickening, 22 - -Brussels Sprouts, 141 - Tinned, 154 - -Butter, Black, 48 - Maitre d'hotel, 53 - Melted, 48 - Oiled, 48 - Sauce, 46 - - -Cabbage, 142 - and Cream, 143 - and Rice, 63 - large White, 142 - Red, 143 - Soup, 27 - -Cakes, 177 - Parsnip, 147 - Pound, 179 - -Caper Sauce, 49 - -Carrot Jam, 164 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 27 - -Carrots, Boiled, 143 - Fried, 144 - Mashed, 144 - Tinned, 154 - -Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce, 145 - au gratin, 144 - Boiled, 144 - Salad, 104 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 28 - -Casseroles, 64 - -Celery and Eggs, 85 - Salad, 103 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 29 - Stewed, 145 - -Cheesecakes, 165-168 - Almond, 170 - Apple, 170 - from Curds, 169 - Orange, 170 - Potato, 169 - -Cheese and Eggs, 89 - and Fried Bread, 113 - and Rice, 63 - Devilled, 114 - Fritters, 117 - -Cheese Ramequins, 114 - Sandwiches, 107 - Savoury, 113 - Souffle, 92 - Soup, 29 - Stewed, 114 - Straws, 114 - Toasted, 114 - -Cherry Sauce, 49 - Soup, 29 - -Cherries, Stewed, 174 - -Chestnut Sauce, 49 - Soup, 30 - -Chestnuts and Macaroni, 72 - -Chocolate Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - -Chutney Sauce, 53 - -Cinnamon Sauce, 49 - -Clear Soup, 30 - -Cocoanut Sauce, 49 - Soup, 31 - -Coffee Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - -Cottage Soup, 30 - -Cream and Macaroni, 73 - Cheese Sandwiches, 107 - Chocolate, 166 - Coffee, 166 - Fritters, 120 - Lemon, 166 - Maraschino, 166 - Orange, 166 - Pistachio, 167 - Strawberry, 167 - Vanilla, 166 - -Creams, 165 - -Croquettes, Potato, 127 - Rice, 65 - -Cucumber and Eggs, 88 - Salad, 102 - Sauce, 49 - -Currant Sauce, Black, 50 - Red, 50 - Black, Jam, 164 - Black, Jelly, 160 - Red, Jam, 164 - Red, Jelly, 161 - -Curried Eggs, 82 - Lentils, 136 - Rice 63 - Vegetables, 151 - -Curry Sauce, 50 - -Custard, Apple, 168 - Cheap, 168 - Fritters, 119 - -Custards, 167 - -Cutlets, Potato, 127 - - -Damson Jam, 164 - Jelly, 162 - -Dandelion Salad, 103 - -Devilled Cheese, 114 - Eggs, 82 - -Dutch Sauce, 51 - Green, 51 - - -Egg Balls, 83 - Forcemeat, 83 - Salad, 99 - Sandwiches, 106 - Sauce, 51 - Toast, 85 - -Eggs, 78 - a la bonne femme, 8 - a la Dauphine, 85 - a la tripe, 83 - and Asparagus, 85 - Black Butter, 86 - Celery, 85 - Cheese, 89 - Cucumber, 88 - Garlic, 86 - Mushrooms, 86 - Onions, 87 - Potatoes, 87 - Rice, 66 - Sauce Robert, 87 - Sorrel, 87 - Spinach, 85 - Turnip-tops, 85 - au gratin, 84 - Boiled, 78 - Hard, 81 - Broiled, 87 - Buttered, 88 - Curried, 82 - Devilled, 82 - Fried, 80 - in Sunshine, 88 - Little, 89 - Poached, 81 - Scrambled, 88 - To Break, 80 - -Endive, 145 - Salad, 100 - Soup, 31 - -English Salad, 97 - -Extract of Spinach, 25 - - -Fennel Sauce, 51 - -Flageolets, 133 - Tinned, 154 - -Fond d'Artichokes, 155 - -Forcemeat of Egg, 83 - of Mushroom, 110 - -Frangipane Fritters, 120 - -French Beans, 139 - Bean Salad, 102 - Soup, 27 - Pudding, 140 - Salad, 97 - -Fritters, 116 - Almond, 119 - Apple, 118 - Apricot, 119 - Banana, 119 - Batter for, 116 - Cheese, 117 - Chocolate, 119 - Coffee, 119 - Cream, 120 - Custard, 119 - Frangipane, 120 - Game, 117 - German, 121 - Ginger and Rice, 121 - Hominy, 117 - Mushroom, 116 - Orange, 120 - Pine Apple, 120 - Peach, 120 - Potato, 120 - Rice, 121 - Sage and Onion, 118 - Spinach, 118 - Sweet, 118 - Tomato, 117 - Vanilla, 119 - -Fruit, Compote of, 171 - Soup, 31 - Stewed, 171 - -Fruits, Bottled, 157 - Tinned, 155 - -Frumenty, 76 - - -Game Fritters, 117 - -Garlic and Eggs, 86 - -Garnish of Eggs, 89 - -German Fritters, 121 - Salad, 100 - Sauce, 51 - -Ginger Sauce, 52 - -Gooseberry Sauce, 52 - -Gooseberries, Stewed, 173 - -Green Bean Soup, 27 - Dutch Sauce, 51 - Mayonnaise Sauce, 54 - Pea Soup, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - - -Hare Soup, 32 -Haricot Beans, 131 - Bean Salad, 103 - Soup, Red, 26 - White, 26 - -Herbaceous Mixture, 32 - -Herbs, Aromatic, 32 - -Hominy, 76 - Fried, 76 - Fritters, 117 - -Hop Salad, 104 - -Horseradish Sauce, 52 - -Hotch Potch, 32 - - -Ice Cream, 176 - Lemon Water, 176 - Orange Water, 176 - Water Fruit, 177 - -Ices, 174 - from Fresh Fruit, 176 - from Jams, 176 - -Indian Pickle Sauce, 53 - Sandwiches, 106 - -Italian Salad, 104 - Sauce, 53 - - -Jam Apple, 161 - Apricot, 164 - Blackberry, 164 - Black Currant, 164 - Carrot, 164 - Damson, 164 - Gooseberry, 164 - Greengage, 164 - Plum, 164 - Raspberry, 164 - Red Currant, 164 - Rhubarb, 164 - Strawberry, 164 - Vegetable Marrow, 164 - -Jams, 163 - -Jardiniere Soup, 33 - -Jellies, 158 - -Jelly, Apple, 161 - Apricot, 163 - Blackberry, 158 - Black Currant, 160 - Damson, 162 - Lemon, 159 - Mulberry, 163 - Orange, 160 - Pine Apple, 162 - Raspberry, 161 - Red Currant, 161 - -Julienne Soup, 33 - - -Kale, Scotch, 148 - Sea, 148 - - -Leek Soup, 33 - -Leeks, Stewed, 145 - Welsh Porridge, 146 - -Lemon Cream, 166 - Jelly, 159 - Water, Ice, 176 - -Lentil Porridge, 75 - Puree a la Soubise, 34 - Soup, 33 - -Lentils, 135 - a la a Provencale, 136 - Boiled, 136 - Curried, 136 - -Lettuce Salad, 97 - -Lettuces, Stewed, 146 - with Peas, 146 - - -Macaroni, 67 - a la Reine, 69 - and Cheese, 68 - Chestnuts, 72 - Cream, 73 - Eggs, 69 - Tomatoes, 72 - as an Ornament, 70 - au gratin, 69 - Italian Fashion, 68 - Nudels, 71 - Savoury, 72 - Scolloped, 70 - Soup, Clear, 34 - Soup, Thick, 34 - Timbale of, 70 - -Macedoines, 155 - -Maitre d'hotel Sauce, 53 - Butter, 53 - -Mango Chutney Sauce, 53 - -Maraschino Cream, 166 - -Mayonnaise Salad, 98 - Sauce, 53 - Sauce, Green, 54 - -Melon Salad, 105 - -Milk Porridge, 75 - Soup, 35 - Toast, 77 - -Mint Sauce, 54 - -Mock Turtle Soup, 35 - -Mulberry Jelly, 163 - -Mulligatawny Soup, 35 - -Mushroom, Essence of, 44 - Forcemeat, 110 - Fritters, 116 - Pie, 110 - Cold, 110 - Pudding, 111 - Puree of, 55 - Sandwiches, 106 - Sauce, 54 - Brown, 55 - -Mushrooms, 108 - a la Bordelaise, 110 - a la Provencale, 110 - and Eggs, 86 - au gratin, 109 - Fried, 109 - Plain, 108 - -Mustard Sauce, 55 - -Mustard and Cress, 104 - Sandwiches, 106 - - -Nalesnikis, 116 - -Nettles, To Boil, 151 - - -Oatmeal Porridge, 73 - -Oiled Butter, 48 - -Omelet au Kirsch, 95 - au Rhum, 95 - Cheese, 92 - Fine Herbs, 92 - Onion, 92 - Plain, 91 - Potato, 92 - Potato, Sweet, 92 - Souffle, 93 - Sweet, 94 - Vegetable, 95 - with Jam, 94 - -Omelets, 89 - -Onion Omelet, 92 - Salad, 104 - Sauce, 55 - Brown, 55 - Soup, 35 - Brown, 36 - -Onions and Eggs, 87 - Baked, 146 - Plain, 146 - Stewed, 147 - Stuffed, 115 - -Orange Cheesecakes, 170 - Cream, 166 - Fritters, 120 - Jelly, 160 - Sauce, 56 - Water Ice, 176 - -Ox-tail Soup, 36 - - -Palestine Soup, 24 - -Pancakes, Polish, 116 - -Parsley Sauce, 56 - To Blanch, 26 - -Parsnip Cake, 147 - Soup, 36 - -Parsnips, 147 - Fried, 147 - Mashed, 147 - -Paste for Pies, 184. - Puddings, 185. - without Butter, 183. - -Peach Fritters, 120 - -Peaches, Tinned, 156 - -Peaches with Cream, 156 - -Pea Soup, Dried Green, 37 - Split Peas, 37 - Fresh Green, 38 - -Peas, Boiled, 148 - Brose, 134 - Dried, 133 - Dried Green with Cream, 135 - Dried whole Green, 134 - Green, 148 - Pudding, 134 - Stewed, 148 - Tinned, 153 - -Pear Soup, 37 - -Pears, Stewed, 173 - Tinned, 156 - -Pie, Mushroom, 110 - Mushroom, Cold, 111 - Potato, 112 - Pumpkin, 113 - -Pies and Puddings, General, 183 - Paste for, 184. - -Pine Apple Fritters, 120 - Ice, 177 - Jelly, 162 - Sauce, 56 - Tinned, 156 - -Piroski Sernikis, 116 - -Pistachio Cream, 167 - -Plum Jam, 164 - Sauce, 56 - -Plums, Stewed, 174 - -Polenta, 115 - -Poached Eggs, 81 - -Poivrade Sauce, 57 - -Polish Pancakes, 116 - -Porridge, Barley and Rice, 75 - Milk, 75 - Lentil, 75 - Oatmeal, 73 - Sago, 77 - Whole Meal, 75 - -Potato Balls, 127 - Biscuits, 129 - Border, 128 - Bread, 129 - Cake, 129 - Cheese, 130 - Cheesecake, 169 - Chips, 126 - Croquettes, 127 - Fritters, 120 - Omelet, 92 - Omelet, Sweet, 92 - Ribbon, 126 - Salad, 101 - Soup, 38 - -Potatoes and Eggs, 87 - a la Barigoule, 130 - a la Lyonnaise, 131 - a la Maitre d'hotel, 127 - a la Provencale, 131 - Baked, 125 - Boiled, 123 - Broiled, 131 - Fried, 126 - Mashed, 125 - New, 127 - Saute, 126 - Steamed, 124 - -Pound Cake, 179 - -Prune Sauce, 57 - -Prunes, Stewed, 173 - -Pudding, Cheese, 114 - French Bean, 140 - Mushroom, 111 - Peas, 134 - Pumpkin, 113 - -Puddings, 182 - -Pumpkin a la Parmesane, 115 - Pie, 113 - Pudding, 113 - Soup, 39 - -Puree, Endive, 31 - Lentils, 34 - Mushroom, 55 - of Beans, Red, 26, - of Beans, White, 26 - of Chestnuts, 30 - Sorrel, 58 - - -Rarebit, Welsh, 115 - -Raspberry Ice, 176 - Jam, 164 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 57 - -Ramequins, Cheese, 114 - -Ratafia Sauce, 57 - -Ravigotte Sauce, 57 - -Red Currant Jam, 164 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 50 - -Red Haricot Bean Soup, 26 - -Rhubarb Soup, 39 - Stewed, 173 - -Rice, 60 - and Barley Porridge, 75 - and Cabbage, 63 - and Cheese, 63 - and Eggs, 66 - and Ginger Fritters, 121 - and Tomatoes, 66 - Boiled, 61 - Border, 64 - Croquettes, 65 - Curried, 63 - Fritters, 121 - Soup, 39 - Soup a la Royale, 39 - -Risotto, 62 - -Robert Sauce, 58 - -Roux, Brown, 22 - White, 22 - - -Sage and Onion Fritters, 118 - -Sago Porridge, 77 - Soup, 40 - -Salad, Artichoke, 102 - Asparagus, 101 - Bean, Broad, 103 - Bean, Haricot, 103 - Beetroot, 102 - Cauliflower, 104 - Celery, 103 - Cucumber, 102 - Dandelion, 103 - Egg, 99 - Endive, 100 - English, 97 - French, 97 - French Beans, 102 - German, 100 - Hop, 104 - Italian, 104 - Mayonnaise, 98 - Melon, 105 - Mixed, 98 - Mustard and Cress, 104 - Onion, 104 - Potato, 101 - Salsify, 101 - Sweet, 105 - Tomato, 99 - Water-cress, 103 - -Salads, 96 - -Salsify, Boiled, 151 - Salad, 101 - -Sandwiches, 105 - Cheese, 107 - Cream Cheese, 107 - Egg, 106 - Indian, 106 - Mushroom, 106 - Mustard and Cress, 106 - Tomato, 105 - -Sauce, Allemande, 44 - Almond, 44 - Almond, Clear, 45 - Apple, 45 - Arrowroot, 45 - Artichoke, 45 - Asparagus, 45 - Bread, 45 - Butter, 46 - Butter, Black, 48 - Butter, Oiled, 48 - Caper, 49 - Carrot, 49 - Cauliflower, 49 - Celery, 49 - Cherry, 49 - Chestnut, 49 - Cinnamon, 49 - Cocoa-nut, 49 - Cucumber, 49 - Currant, Black, 50 - Currant, Red, 50 - Curry, 50 - Dutch, 51 - Green, 51 - Egg, 51 - Fennel, 51 - German Sweet, 51 - Ginger, 52 - Gooseberry, 52 - Horseradish, 52 - Indian Pickle, 53 - Italian, 53 - Maitre d'hotel, 53 - Mango Chutney, 53 - Mayonnaise, 53 - Green, 54 - Mint, 54 - Mushroom, 54 - Brown, 55 - Puree, 55 - Mustard, 55 - Onion, 55 - Brown, 55 - Orange Cream, 56 - Parsley, 56 - Pine Apple, 56 - Plum, 56 - Poivrade, 57 - Prune, 57 - Radish, 57 - Raspberry, 57 - Ratafia, 57 - Ravigotte, 57 - Robert, 58 - Sorrel, 58 - Soubise, 58 - Sweet, 58 - Tarragon, 58 - Tartar, 58 - Tomato, 59 - Truffle, 59 - Vanilla, 59 - White, 59 - -Sauces, 44 - -Savoury Rice, 66 - -Scotch Broth, 40 - Kale, 148 - -Sea Kale, 148 - Soup, 40 - -Sorrel Sauce, 58 - Soup, 40 - -Soubise Sauce, 58 - -Souffle, Cheese, 92 - Omelet, 93 - -Soup, Almond, 23 - Apple, 24 - Artichoke, 24 - Asparagus, 24 - Barley, 25 - Bean, French, 27 - Green, 27 - Haricot, Red, 26 - Haricot, White 26 - Beetroot, 26 - Cabbage, 27 - Carrot, 27 - Cauliflower, 28 - Celery, 29 - Cheese, 29 - Cherry, 29 - Chestnut, 30 - Clear, 30 - Cocoanut, 31 - Cottage, 30 - Endive, 31 - Fruit, 31 - Green Pea, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - Hare, 32 - Hotch Potch, 32 - Jardiniere, 33 - Julienne, 33 - Leek, 33 - Lentil, 33 - Lentil a la Soubise, 34 - Macaroni, Clear, 34 - Thick, 34 - Milk, 35 - Mock Turtle, 35 - Mulligatawny, 35 - Onion, 35 - Brown, 36 - Ox-tail, 36 - Palestine, 24 - Parsnip, 36 - Pear, 37 - Pea, Split, 37 - Green, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - Potato, 38 - Pumpkin, 39 - Rhubarb, 39 - Rice, 39 - a la Royale, 39 - Sago, 40 - Scotch Broth, 40 - Sea Kale, 40 - Sorrel, 40 - Spinach, 41 - Tapioca, 41 - Tomato, 41 - Turnip, 42 - Vegetable, 33 - Marrow, 42 - Vermicelli, 42 - White, 42 - White, 43 - -Soups, 23 - General Instructions, 17 - -Sparghetti, 67 - -Spinach, 149 - and Eggs, 85 - Extract of, 25 - Fritters, 118 - Soup, 41 - Tinned, 154 - -Stock, 21 - -Strawberry Cream, 167 - Ice, 176 - Jam, 164 - -Sweet Fritters, 118 - Omelet, 94 - Salads, 105 - Sauce, 58 - German, 51 - - -Tagliatelli, 73 - -Tapioca Soup, 41 - -Tarragon Sauce, 58 - -Tartar Sauce, 58 - -Thickening, Brown, 22 - White, 22 - -Timbale of Macaroni, 70 - -Toast, Egg, 85 - Milk, 77 - -Tomato Fritters, 117 - Pie, 112 - Salad, 99 - Sandwiches, 105 - Sauce, 59 - Soup, 41 - -Tomatoes and Macaroni, 72 - and Rice, 66 - au Gratin, 111 - Baked, 111 - Fried, 111 - Grilled, 111 - Stewed, 111 - -Truffle Sauce, 59 - -Turnip Soup, 42 - -tops, 151 - and Eggs, 85 - -Turnips, Boiled, 150 - Mashed, 150 - Ornamental, 150 - Tinned, 155 - - -Vanilla Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - Ice, 176 - Sauce, 59 - -Vegetable Curry, 151 - Marrow, 149 - Soup, 42 - Stuffed, 149 - Omelet, 95 - Soup, 42 - -Vegetables, Fresh, 137 - Preserved, 152 - Substantial, 122 - -Vermicelli Soup, 42 - Thick, 42 - - -Water-cress Salad, 103 - -Welsh Porridge, 146 - Rarebit, 115 - -White Haricot Bean Salad, 103 - Soup, 26 - Roux, 22 - Sauce, 59 - Soup, 43 - Thickening, 22 - -Whole-meal Bread, 180 - Porridge, 75 - - -Zucchetti Farcis, 115 - - * * * * * - -PRINTED BY CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, LONDON, E.C. - - * * * * * - -Cheap Edition (11_th Thousand_). - -Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d. - -WHAT GIRLS CAN DO. 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Sample by post for 4s. 3d.; 4-1/2 lbs. -7s. 6d.; 6 [Transcriber's Note: Illegible.] lbs. 10s. 9d. - - * * * * * - -N.B.--No Charge for Carriage of Parcels of TEA [Transcriber's Note: -Illegible.] and over in England. -_Cheques [Transcriber's Note: Illegible.] - -BARBER AND COMPANY - -(Established in the last Century) - -274, REGENT CIRCUS, OXFORD STREET, W. - -61, Bishopsgate Street, London E.C. - -102, Westbourne Grove, W. - -67, Brixton Road, S.W. - -The Borough, London Bridge, S.E. - -King's Cross, N. - -42, Great Titchfield Street, W. - -Manchester--93, Market Street. - -Birmingham--Quadrant. - -Liverpool--4, Church Street, Winston Buildings, and 62 London Road. - -Preston--104, Fishergate. - -Bristol--33, Corn Street. - -Brighton--148, North Street. - -Hastings--Robertson Street, and Havelock Road. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. G. Payne - -*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14594 *** diff --git a/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-h.zip b/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 681ba39..0000000 --- a/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-h/14594-h.htm b/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-h/14594-h.htm deleted file mode 100644 index a56c31e..0000000 --- a/old/old-2025-03-06/14594-h/14594-h.htm +++ /dev/null @@ -1,12063 +0,0 @@ -<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" -"DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> - -<html> - -<head> -<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" /> - -<style type="text/css"> -<!-- -a:link {color:#0000cc; - text-decoration:none} -link {color:#0000cc; - text-decoration:none} -a:visited {color:#000066; - text-decoration:none} -a:hover {color:red} - -BODY { - background: #FFFFFF; - color: #000000; - margin-left: 10%; - margin-right: 10%; - } - -pre { - font-size: 9pt; -} - -P { - margin-top: 0.75em; - margin-right: 0em; - margin-bottom: 0.75em; - margin-left: 0em; - text-align: justify; - text-indent: 1em; -} - -.adlisting { - font-weight: bold; - margin: 0.75em 20%; -text-align: left; -text-indent: 0em; -} - -.adlistingunbold { -font-weight: normal; -margin: 0.75em 20%; -text-align: left; -text-indent: 0em; -} - -.centre { - text-align: center; -} - -.first { - text-indent: 0em; -} - - -.list { - text-indent: 0em; - padding: 0em 2em; -} - -.note { - color: #666666; -} - -.textright { -margin: 0.75em 20%; - text-align: right; -} - -.underscore { - text-decoration: underline; -} - -.ditto { - padding-right: 1.5em; - padding-left: 1.5em; -} - -H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { - text-align: center; -} - -.ad-xb { - font-weight: bolder; -} - -.bookad { - margin-left: 2em; - text-indent: -1em; - text-align: justify; -} - -.unbold { - font-weight: normal; -} - -HR { width: 33%; - margin-top: 1em; - margin-bottom: 1em; - } - -hr.full { - width: 100%; -} - -DIV.advert { - border: solid #000000 2px; - padding: 1em; -margin: 1em; -} - -DIV.chapter { - margin: 1em 0em; - padding: 2em 0em; -} - -DIV.toc { - margin: 1em 0em; - padding: 2em 0em; -} - -UL { -list-style-type: none; -} - -OL.arabic { - list-style: decimal; -} - - -OL.upperroman { - list-style: upper-roman; -} - ---> -</style> -<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A.G.Payne</title> -</head> - -<body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. G. Payne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery - A Manual Of Cheap And Wholesome Diet - -Author: A. G. Payne - -Release Date: January 4, 2005 [EBook #14594] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY *** - - - - -Produced by Feòrag NicBhrìde and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -</pre> - - - <div class="advert"> - <h2 class="ad-xb">SUGG’S GOLD MEDAL “WESTMINSTER”<br /> - GAS KITCHENERS.</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>ENAMELLED INSIDE AND UNDER HOT-PLATE.</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <img src="images/001.jpg" alt="[Illustration]" width="221" height="400" - /> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>PERFECT FOR ROASTING, BAKING, GRILLING, - TOASTING, AND BOILING.</em></strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>WILL DO ALL THAT ANY STOVE OF THE SAME SIZE - CAN DO—<span class="underscore">ONLY MUCH BETTER</span>.</em></strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>The only Gas Kitchener which Bakes Bread perfectly.</strong> - Send for Pamphlet on SUGG’S NEW METHOD OF BAKING BREAD. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - LET ON HIRE By the Gas Light and Coke Co., the South Metropolitan Gas Co., - Brentford, Tottenham, and many other Gas Companies. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>WILLIAM SUGG & CO., Ltd., REGENCY ST., WESTMINSTER.</strong> - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>Complete in Four Vols., price 5s. each.</em></strong> - </p> - <hr /> - <h2>CASSELL’S<br /> - Book of the Household.</h2> - <p class="centre"> - A Valuable and Practical Work on Every Department of Household Management. - <em>With Numerous Illustrations</em>. - </p> - <hr /> - <p> - The <cite>Guardian</cite> says: “<strong>An excellent work, which - should be in the hands of every housekeeper,</strong> is CASSELL’S BOOK - OF THE HOUSEHOLD. Here we find the most varied information and the - soundest of advice. The household, its members and their family life, - are considered and discussed; children and their training, health and - disease, food and clothing, furnishing, furniture, and household - mechanics. The arrangement and treatment of these various subjects are - admirable, and the book is certainly a most valuable and practical - manual of household management.” - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Queen</cite> says: “<strong>A book so handy and practical - ought to be adopted by every well-ordered family</strong>. Its plan is - so comprehensive, it will include every part of the house and its - requirements, and all the members of the family and their mutual - relations, duties, and responsibilities.” - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Weekly Dispatch</cite> says: “We do not know of any more - practical or more valuable work on household management. It is worth - its weight in gold.” - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Scotsman</cite> says: “The first volume has appeared of a - book which promises to be of great and extensive utility. It is - <strong>a cyclopædia of information on all questions connected - with the management of a household,</strong> and does not enter into - comparison with books that treat merely of provisions for the table. - Various hands have evidently been employed in working up the various - sections, and every subject is dealt with in a thoroughly competent - style. The book is admirably appointed in every respect, and contains - many illustrations, all of the most useful character, and beautifully - printed. <strong>Every one who has to do in any way with the management - of a household will find this book invaluable.”</strong> - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Liverpool Mercury</cite> says: “CASSELL’S BOOK OF THE - HOUSEHOLD is another book, of a class of which many have been issued, - and good books too; but this one, by the thoroughness and - comprehensiveness of its arrangement, will go far to render the - housewife who possesses it independent of all the rest.... Many a - housewife will find the articles interesting enough to be taken up at - any leisure hour.” - </p> - - <p> - The <cite>Glasgow Herald</cite> says: “The work promises to be the - most complete thing of the kind in existence, and even the first volume - by itself is a perfect household encyclopædia.” - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - SAVES TIME, TROUBLE, AND EXPENSE. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - ASK YOUR GROCER FOR - </p> - - <h2>GRIDLEY & CO’S<br /> - ISINGLASSINE.</h2> - - - <p class="centre"> - “PURE, NUTRITIOUS AND - WHOLESOME.” - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Arthur Hill Hassall</em><br /> - <em>E. Godwin Clayton</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - A SIXPENNY PACKET WILL MAKE 1 QUART OF - <em>BRILLIANT JELLY</em>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>NO BOILING OR SOAKING REQUIRED. TO BE HAD OF ALL - GROCERS</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>THREE GOLD MEDALS AWARDED.</em></strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - HIGHEST TESTIMONIALS. - </p> -</div> - - - - <div class="advert"> - <h2>The London Vegetarian Society,</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>THE MEMORIAL HALL, FARRINGDON STREET, E.C.</em> - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="list"> - President—A.F. HILLS, Esq.<br /> - Treasurer—ERNEST BELL, Esq., M.A.<br /> - Secretary—MAY YATES. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p> - THE LONDON VEGETARIAN SOCIETY is established for the purpose of - advocating the total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and - fowl) as food, and promoting instead a more extensive use of fruits, - grains, nuts, and other products of the vegetable kingdom; and also to - disseminate information as to the meaning and principles of - Vegetarianism by lectures, pamphlets, letters to the Press, &c.; and by - these means, and through the example and efforts of its Members, to - extend the adoption of a principle tending essentially to true - civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to the increase of human - happiness generally. - </p> - - <p> - Members adopt in its entirety the Vegetarian system of diet. Associates - agree to promote the aims of the Society, but do not pledge themselves - to its practice. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>SUBSCRIBERS ARE ENTITLED TO THE FOLLOWING ADVANTAGES:</strong> - </p> - - <p> - <strong>ONE SHILLING PER ANNUM.</strong>—Minimum Subscription. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>FIVE SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.</strong>—Tickets for Four - Monthly Receptions, Four Debates, and Four Conversaziones at - half-price, and be entitled to receive, free by post, copies of all new - literature published by the Society under 6d. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>TEN SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.</strong>—Tickets for Four - Monthly Receptions, Four Debates, and Four Conversaziones, and to - receive, free by post, copies of all new literature published by the - Society under 1s. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM.</strong>—Tickets for Four Monthly - Receptions, Four Debates and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free - by post, all new literature published by the Society under 2s., and - copies of the <cite>Vegetarian</cite>, <cite>The Hygienic - Review</cite>, and the <cite>Vegetarian Messenger</cite>. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <h2>POOR MAN’S FRIEND AND PILLS.</h2> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - DR. ROBERTS’ OINTMENT CALLED<br /> - <strong>POOR MAN’S FRIEND</strong><br /> - Will Cure WOUNDS and SORES of every description - </p> - - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - DR. ROBERTS’<br /> - <strong>ALTERATIVE PILLS</strong><br /> - For DISEASES of the BLOOD and SKIN. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Of all Chemists, or of the Proprietors</em>, BRIDPORT, DORSET. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <img src="images/003.jpg" alt="[llustration]" width="172" - height="103" /> - </p> - <h2> - THE “RAPID” COOKERY STEAMER. - </h2> - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - TO FIT ANY SAUCEPAN. - </p> - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - <em>From 1s. each.</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>OF ALL IRONMONGERS.</strong> - </p> - - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <em>NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION.</em> - </p> - - <h2>A Year’s Cookery.</h2> - - <p> - Giving Dishes for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Dinner for every Day in the - Year, By PHYLLIS BROWNE. Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. - </p> - - <p> - To the New Edition of this popular book (which has already attained a - sale of upwards of Twenty Thousand Copies) additional pages have been - added on Food for Invalids. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <em>Price</em> <strong>2s. 6d.</strong> - </p> - - <h2>A Handbook for the Nursing of Sick Children. <span class="unbold">By CATHERINE J. WOOD.</span></h2> - - <p> - “Miss Wood’s book is succinct, clearly written, and goes straight to the - heart of each detail in a thoroughly business-like - fashion.”—<cite>Health</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>The Largest, Cheapest, and Best Cookery Book.</em></strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - 1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, <strong>7s. 6d.</strong>; roxburgh, - <strong>10s. 6d.</strong> - </p> - - <h2>CASSELL’S Dictionary of Cookery.</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - CONTAINING ABOUT <strong>9,000</strong> RECIPES. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p> - “CASSELL’S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is one of the most thorough and - comprehensive works of the kind. To expatiate on its abundant contents - would demand pages rather than paragraphs.”—<cite>The - Times</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “One of the most handsome, practical, and comprehensive books of - cookery.”—<cite>Saturday Review</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “It seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to - be—that is, the largest and most complete collection of the kind - ever produced in this country; an encyclopædia, in fact, of the - culinary art in all its branches. It is a dictionary which should be in - every household, and studied by every woman who recognises her true - mission in the world.”—<cite>Christian World</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “CASSELL’S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is not only full of solid and - valuable information as to the best method of preparing food in an - endless variety of forms, but it will enable a housekeeper to grasp - principles on which food may be cooked to the greatest perfection. It - supplies the reason why one method is right and another wrong. An - estimate of the cost of each recipe is given, which is valuable - information. The recipes themselves are given in terms intelligible to - the meanest capacity.”—<cite>Athenæum</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “CASSELL’S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY contains about 9,000 recipes, and is - preceded by a treatise on the Principles of Culinary Art and Table - Management, which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks, as - those most interested in such instructions, but by every mistress of a - household, large or small.... The woodcuts dispersed through the pages - not only illustrate some of the various species of fish, game, fruit, - vegetables, and herbs to which the recipes refer, but serve to make the - directions for carving more intelligible, while the coloured plates - represent appetising dishes elaborately garnished, or fruit tastefully - arranged, with several less inviting pictures of ‘bad and good joints - of meat’ contrasted with each other side by - side.”—<cite>Morning Post</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “The best Cookery book extant. We know of no equal, either in the - arrangement of its contents, the number of its recipes, or the elegance - of its illustrations.”—<cite>York Herald</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “Being complete, it tells us how to dress a table for the smallest - dinner, but what I value more in it is that it reminds us of the - simplest and cheapest of dishes, and gives their cost. There are more - shilling or sixpenny preparations in this book than those of greater - cost.”—<cite>Western Morning News</cite>. - </p> - - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="chapter"> - <h1>CASSELL’S VEGETARIAN COOKERY.</h1> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <h2>CROSSE & BLACKWELL’S</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - PICKLES, SAUCES, FLAVOURING ESSENCES, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>PARISIAN ESSENCE FOR GRAVIES</em>, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Grated Parmesan Cheese in Bottles, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - PURE LUCCA OIL, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Malt Vinegar and Table Delicacies, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>ARE SOLD BY ALL GROCERS</em>. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>CROSSE & BLACKWELL,</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Purveyors to the Queen, - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - SOHO SQUARE, LONDON - </p> - </div> - - <div class="chapter"> - <h1>CASSELL’S VEGETARIAN COOKERY.</h1> - - <h2>A MANUAL OF <em>CHEAP AND WHOLESOME DIET</em>.</h2> - - <p class="centre"> - BY A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - AUTHOR OF “CHOICE DISHES,” ETC. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <img src="images/002.jpg" alt="[Publisher's logo]" width="100" height="97" - /> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED: - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>LONDON, PARIS & MELBOURNE</em>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - 1891. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - For Puddings, Blanc-Mange, Custards, CHILDREN’S AND INVALIDS’ DIET, - <em>And all the Uses of Arrowroot</em>, - </p> - - <h2 class="underscore"> - BROWN & POLSON’S CORN FLOUR - </h2> - - <p class="centre"> - HAS A WORLD-WIDE REPUTATION, AND IS DISTINGUISHED FOR <em>UNIFORMLY - SUPERIOR QUALITY</em>. - </p> - <hr /> - <p> - NOTE.—Purchasers should insist on being supplied with BROWN & - POLSON’S CORN FLOUR. Inferior qualities, asserting fictitious claims, - are being offered. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>80th Thousand,</strong> <em>price</em> - <strong>1s.</strong>; <em>post free</em>, <strong>1s. 3d.</strong> - </p> - <hr /> - <h2> - <strong>Cassell’s Shilling Cookery.</strong> - </h2> - - <p> - This new and valuable Work contains 364 pages, crown 8vo, bound in - limp cloth. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p> - “This is the <strong>largest and most comprehensive work</strong> - on the subject of cookery ever yet published at the - price.”—<cite>Christian Age</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “Housekeepers <strong>will save many shillings</strong> if they - follow the practical suggestions and excellent advice - given.”—<cite>Bazaar</cite>. - </p> - - <p> - “CASSELL’S SHILLING COOKERY is certainly the cheapest - manual for the kitchen we have ever received. There are 360 pages - of recipes, the book is serviceably bound, and should prove a - treasure to any young wife.”—<cite>Weekly Times and - Echo</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - </div> - - - - - <div class="chapter"> - <h2>PREFACE.</h2> - - <hr /> - - <p class="first"> - The present work, though written upon strictly vegetarian - principles, is by no means addressed to vegetarians only. On - the contrary, we hope that the following pages of recipes will - be read by that enormous class throughout the country who - during the last few years have been gradually changing their - mode of living by eating far <em>less</em> meat, and taking vegetables - and farinaceous food as a substitute. - </p> - - <p> - Where there are thousands who are vegetarians from - choice, there are tens of thousands who are virtually vegetarians - from necessity. Again, there is another large class - who from time to time adopt a vegetarian course of diet on - the ground of health, and as a means of escaping from the - pains attendant on gout, liver complaint, or dyspepsia. - </p> - - <p> - The class we most wish to reach, however, is that one, - increasing we fear, whose whole life is one continual struggle - not merely to live, but to live decently. - </p> - - <p> - It may seem a strong statement, but we believe it to be a - true one, that only those who have tried a strictly vegetarian - course of diet know what real <em>economy</em> means. Should the - present work be the means of enabling even one family to - become not only better in health but richer in pocket, it will - not have been written in vain. - </p> - - <p> - A.G. PAYNE. - </p> - </div> - - <div class="advert"> - <p class="centre"> - SOLIDIFIED JELLY. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - - <img src="images/004.jpg" alt="[Illustration]" width="100" height="59" - /></p> - - <p> - By Royal Letters Patent in Great Britain and Ireland, 1888 Patented - in the Dominion of Canada, 1889. Patented in France, 1889. N. S. - Wales, 1889. Victoria, 1889. Other Foreign Rights reserved. - </p> - - <h2>CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES,</h2> - - <p> - The Inventor and Patentee, in introducing this high-class article - of food, begs to warn the Public that the great success and - enormous demand the CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES have obtained in Great - Britain has brought many imitators on the Market. A few Stores and - Grocers are offering same to the Public, no doubt for the purpose - of wishing to appear cheaper, or for making extra profit. The - favour for the CHELSEA TABLE JELLY has been obtained solely upon - the merits of the article, and it is held to be the greatest - invention of the kind, bringing within the reach of all classes - this hitherto almost unobtainable luxury. This has been fully - endorsed by the unsolicited testimony of high-class British - journals. - </p> - - <p> - The article is put up in cardboard boxes, in quantities to make - 1/2-pints, pints, and quarts of jelly, and the following are some - of the flavours: Lemon, Orange, Vanilla, Calves’ Feet, - Noyeau, Raspberry, Punch, and Madeira. It should not be confounded - with the ordinary fruit Jelly, which is a totally different - article, <em>this being a pure Calves’ Feet jelly</em>, - superseding the use of gelatine in packets for jelly - purposes—this latter, as will easily be seen, being now a - thing of the past. On each box is printed a public analyst’s - report, also full directions for use. - </p> - - <p> - <em>The following advantages are claimed over all other Calves Feet - jellies</em>:— - </p> - - <ol class="arabic"> - - <li>It is less than one-third of the price of bottled jellies, and - superior in quality.</li> - - <li>It never gets mildewed or corky.</li> - - <li>It never fails to set or jellify.</li> - - <li>Its extreme simpleness of preparation, only requiring to be - melted by the addition of hot water, no flavouring or other matter - being required.</li> - - <li>It will keep good for any time until made up, when it will keep - good longer than other jellies.</li> - - <li>The largest quantity can be made in a few minutes.</li> - - </ol> - - <p> - For persons suffering from dyspepsia or any other ailment, it will also be - found to be a great boon, as it can be cut and eaten in the solidified - state with great satisfaction. On sea voyages and excursions of any kind it - will be found invaluable. - </p> - - <p> - <em>BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS, and ask only for the</em> - WALTER ROBERTSON CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>Articles of merit are often pirated by unprincipled trader.</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - To be had of all GROCERS, STORES, and CONFECTIONERS. - </p> - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - <em>CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS</em>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Sample of CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. Received 1888. - </p> - - <p> - <em>I certify that the following are the results of the analysis of the - above samples</em>: - </p> - - <p> - I have examined a sample of Chelsea Table jelly, and find it to be - a mixture of Calves’ Feet jelly and sugar; it is undoubtedly - nutritious and wholesome. - </p> - - <p> - It is superior to other samples that I have analysed, as it in much - firmer and keeps well. - </p> - - <p> - It is clear and bright, and has evidently been carefully manufactured - from pure materials. - </p> - - <p> - It has a pleasant flavour, and is of excellent quality. - </p> - - <p> - <em>(Signed)</em> R. H. HARLAND, F.I,C., F.C.S. - </p> - - <p> - Laboratory, Plough Court, 37, Lombard Street. <em>Public Analyst</em>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Copy of Testimonial received August 26th, 1891 (<em>unsolicited</em>). - </p> - - <p> - 59, Windsor Road, Southport. <em>August 25th</em>, 1891. - </p> - - <p> - GENTLEMEN,—I may inform you that I have tried other makers of - jellies, but have found none to equal yours in excellence of - quality. I have mentioned this fact frequently to Mr. Seymour Mead - and to my friends. I am also deeply indebted to you from the fact - that a little niece of mine was fed almost exclusively on your - Calves’ Feet Jelly for a period of three months, and who, - when she refused to take other things, always took most willingly - to your jellies. - </p> - - <p> - Yours respectfully, - </p> - - <p> - W, ROBERTSON & Co. M. T. HANSON. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>This and others may be inspected at the Works, Chelsea, London.</em> - </p> - <hr /> - <p class="centre"> - <strong>Inventors and Sole Manufacturers (Wholesale only):</strong> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - WALTER ROBERTSON & CO., CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W., ENGLAND - </p> - </div> - -<div class="toc"> - <h2>CONTENTS.</h2> - - <hr /> - -<ol class="upperroman"> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter1">SOUPS</a> 17</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter2">SAUCES</a> 44</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter3">RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL</a> 60</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter4">EGGS AND OMELETS</a> 78</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter5">SALADS AND SANDWICHES</a> 96</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter6">SAVOURY DISHES</a> 108</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter7">VEGETABLES, SUBSTANTIAL</a> 122</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter8">VEGETABLES, FRESH</a> 137</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter9">PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS</a> 152</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter10">JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS</a> 158</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter11">CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESECAKES</a> 165</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter12">STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES</a> 171</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter13">CAKES AND BREAD</a> 177</li> - - <li>—<a href="#chapter14">PIES AND PUDDINGS</a> 182</li> - - </ol> -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <h2>E.F. LANGDALE’S<br />PRIZE MEDAL<br />Flavouring Essences and Domestic Specialities</h2> - - - - <p class="centre"> - FOR PIES, PUDDINGS, SOUPS, GRAVIES, ICES, &c. - </p> - - - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Prepared direct from Herbs, Fruits, and Spices, gathered in their - bloom and freshness.</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>Specially awarded Prize Medals, Great International Exhibition, - London, 1851 and 1862.</strong></p> - - <p class="centre"> - (Recommended for all the Recipes in this work.) - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em><strong>“E.F. LANGDALE’S”</strong> should always - be insisted upon. They are Purest, Best, and Cheapest.</em> - </p> - - <p class="adlisting"> - Essence Lemon.<br /> - Strong Essence Vanilla.<br /> - Purified Essence Almonds<br /> - Essence Noyau.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Raspberries.<br /> - Essence Ginger.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Orange.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Ratafia.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Celery.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Strawberries. - </p> - - <hr /> - - - - <p class="centre"> - E.F. LANGDALE’S - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Fruit Pudding, Blancmange, and Custard Powders - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - MAKE DELICIOUS PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, & BLANCMANGE. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>In 2d. and 6d. Packets. Sold everywhere.</em> - </p> - - <p class="adlisting"> - ALMOND.<br /> - LEMON.<br /> - VANILLA.<br /> - RASPBERRY.<br /> - PINE APPLE.<br /> - RATAFIA.<br /> - STRAWBERRY.<br /> - NECTARINE.<br /> - CHOCOLATE, &c. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - E.F. LANGDALE’S<br /> - Prepared Dried English Herbs, &c. - </p> - - <p class="adlisting"> - Garden Mint.<br /> - Savoury.<br /> - Parsley.<br /> - Sage.<br /> - Lemon Thyme.<br /> - Basil.<br /> - Mixed Sweet Herbs.<br /> - <span class="ditto">"</span>Soup<span class="ditto">"</span><br /> - Tarragon. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em><strong>Celery Seeds. Celery Salt. Herbaceous Mixture.</strong></em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>E.F. LANGDALE’S <strong>REFINED JAMAICA LIME JUICE AND PURE - LEMON JUICE.</strong></em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>Distilled Tarragon and Chill Vinegar for Salads and - Sauces.</strong> - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - - <em>Sole Agent for</em></p> - - <p class="centre"> - - <strong>J. Delcroix & Cie. Concentrated Parisian Essence,</strong></p> - - <p class="centre"> - FOR BROWNING GRAVIES, &c. (<em>See pages 20, 22.</em>) - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Which should always be bought with their Name. As used by all <em>Chefs</em>. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>J. DELCROIX & CIE. Pure Green Vegetable Coloured Spinach - Extract.</strong> <em>Perfectly Harmless</em>. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>J. DELCROIX & CIE. Brilliant Extract Cochineal for Tinting - Ices, Pies, &c.</strong> - </p> - - <hr /> - - - <p class="centre"> - <strong><em>E. F. LANGDALE’S “Essence - Distillery,”</em></strong> - </p> - -<p class="centre"> -<strong>72 & 73, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C. Estab. 1770.</strong> -</p> - -<p class="centre"> -Pamphlets, Recipes, &c., post free. All the above can be obtained of any leading Grocer. -We will send name of nearest Agent on receipt of post card. -</p> - -</div> - - - -<div class="chapter"> - <h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2> - - <hr /> - - <p class="first"> - We wish it to be distinctly understood at starting, that the - present work is purely a cookery-book, written on the principles - generally adopted by vegetarians; and as, until quite - recently, there seemed to be in the minds of many some doubt - as to the definition of vegetarianism, we will quote the - following explanation from the head of the report of the - London Vegetarian Society:—“The aims of the London Vegetarian - Society are to advocate the total disuse of the flesh of - animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, and to promote a more - extensive use of pulse, grains, fruits, nuts, and other products - of the vegetable kingdom, thus propagating a principle tending - essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to - the increase of happiness generally.” - </p> - - <p> - We have no intention of writing a treatise on vegetarianism, - but we consider a few words of explanation necessary. Years - back many persons were under the impression that by vegetarianism - was meant simply an abstention from flesh-meat, - but that fish was allowed. Such, however, is not the case, - according to the rules of most of the Vegetarian Societies of the - day. On the other hand, strictly speaking, real vegetarians - would not be allowed the use of eggs and milk; but it appears - that many use these, though there are a considerable number of - persons who abstain. There is no doubt that the vegetable - kingdom, without either milk or eggs, contains every requisite - for the support of the human body. In speaking on this - subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes:—“The vegetable - kingdom comprehends the cereals, legumes, roots, starches, - sugar, herbs, and fruits. Persons who style themselves vegetarians - often consume milk, eggs, butter, and lard, which are - choice foods from the animal kingdom. There are other - persons, of course, who are strictly vegetarian eaters, and - such alone have any right to the title of vegetarians.” - </p> - - <p> - In the following pages will be found ample recipes for the - benefit of parties who take either view. In questions of - this kind there will always be found conflicting views. We have - no wish or desire to give opinions, but consider it will be - more advisable, and probably render the book far more useful, - if we confine ourselves as much as possible to facts. - </p> - - <p> - The origin of vegetarianism is as old as the history of the - world itself, and probably from time immemorial there have - been sects which have practised vegetarianism, either as a - religious duty, or under the belief that they would render the - body more capable of performing religious duties. In the - year 1098, or two years prior to the date of Henry I., there - was a strictly vegetarian society formed in connection with - the Christian Church, which lived entirely on herbs and roots, - and the society has lasted to the present day. Again, there - have been many sects who, not so strict, have allowed themselves - the use of fish. - </p> - - <p> - Again, there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of - diet on the ground of health. Many maintain that diseases - like gout and dyspepsia would disappear were vegetarian diet - strictly adhered to. On the other hand, we have physicians - who maintain that the great cause of indigestion is not eating - enough. An American physician, some years ago, alleged he - had discovered the cause, his argument being that the more - work the stomach had to do the stronger it would become, - on the same principle that the arm of a blacksmith is more - powerful in consequence of hard work. Of one thing we are - certain, and that is, there will always be rival physicians and - rival sects; but the present work will simply be a guide to <em>those - who require, from whatever cause, a light form of diet</em>. Perhaps - the greatest benefit vegetarians can do their cause—and - there are many who think very strongly on the subject—is to - endeavour to take a dispassionate view. Rome was not built - in a day; and if we look back at the past history of this - country, during the last half-century, in regard to food, - we shall see that there have been many natural changes - at work. Waves of thought take place backwards and - forwards, but still the tide may flow. Some fifty years ago - there was, undoubtedly, a strong impression (with a large - number of right-minded people) that plenty of meat, beer, - and wine were good for all, even for young children. The - medical profession are very apt to run in flocks, and follow - some well-known leader. At the period to which we refer, - numbers of anxious mothers would have regarded the advice - to bring up their children as vegetarians and teetotallers as - positive cruelty. This old-fashioned idea has passed away. - </p> - - <p> - One great motive for adopting a course of vegetarian diet - is economy; and here we feel that we stand on firm ground, - without danger of offending sincere opinions, which are often - wrongly called prejudices. To a great extent, the majority of - the human race are virtually vegetarians from necessity. Nor - do we find feebleness either of mind or body necessarily - ensues. We believe there are tens of thousands of families - who would give vegetarianism a trial were it not for fear. - Persons are too apt to think that bodily strength depends - upon the nature of the food we eat. In India we have a - feeble race, living chiefly on rice. On the other hand, in - China, for bodily strength, few can compare with the Coolies. - For many years in Scotland the majority lived on oatmeal, - while in Ireland they lived on potatoes. We do not wish - to argue anything from these points, but to bring them - forward for consideration. Probably, strength of body and - mind, as a general rule, depends upon breed, and this argument - tells two ways—it does not follow that vegetarians - will be necessarily strong, and will cease to be cruel; nor - does it follow that those who have been accustomed all - their lives to eat meat will cease to be strong should they - become vegetarians. As we have said, the great motive that - induces many to give vegetarianism a trial is economy; and if - persons would once get rid of the idea that they risk their health - by making a trial, much would be done to advance the cause. - </p> - - <p> - Another great reason for persons hesitating to make a trial - is the revolution it would create in their households. Here - again we are beset by difficulties, and these difficulties can - only disappear gradually, after long years of patience. We - believe the progress towards vegetarianism must of necessity be - a very slow one. No large West End tradesman could possibly - insist upon his whole establishment becoming vegetarians - because he becomes one himself. We believe and hope that - the present work will benefit those who are undergoing a slow - but gradual change in their mode of living. This is easiest in - small households, where no servants are kept at all, where - the mistress is both cook and mother. It is in such households - that the change is possible, and very often most desirable. - In many cases trial will be made gradually. The - great difficulty to contend with is prejudice, or, rather, we may - say, habit. There are many housekeepers who feel that their - bill of fare would instantly become extremely limited were - they to adopt vegetarian ideas. There are few better dinners—especially - for children—than a good basin of soup, with - plenty of bread; yet, as a rule, there are few housekeepers who - would know how to make vegetarian soup at all. In our - present work we have given a list of sixty-four soups. At - any rate, here is no lack of variety, as small housekeepers in - this country are not famed for their knowledge of soup - making, even with gravy-beef at their disposal. - </p> - - <p> - On looking down this list it will be observed that in many cases - cream—or, at any rate, milk—is recommended. We can well - imagine the housekeeper exclaiming, “I don’t call this - economy.” This is one point about which we consider a few words - of explanation necessary. We will suppose a family of eight, who have - been accustomed to live in the ordinary way, are going to have a - vegetarian dinner by way of trial. Some soup has to be made, and one or - two vegetables from the garden or the greengrocer’s, as the case - may be, are going to be cooked on a new method, and the housekeeper is - horrified at the amount of butter she finds recommended for the sauce. - People must, however, bear in mind that changes are gradual, and that - often, at first starting, a degree of richness, or what they would - consider extravagance, is advisable if they wish to <em>reconcile - others</em> to the change. In our dinner for eight we would first ask - them how much meat would they have allowed a head? At the very lowest - computation, it could not have been decently done under a quarter of a - pound each, even if the dish of meat took the economical form of an - Irish stew; and had a joint, such as a leg of mutton, been placed upon - the table, it would probably have been considerably more than double. - Supposing, however, instead of the meat, we have three - vegetables—say haricot beans, potatoes, and a cabbage. With the - assistance of some really good <a href="#buttersauce046">butter - sauce</a>, these vegetables, eaten with bread, make an agreeable meal, - which, especially in hot weather, would probably be a pleasant change. - Supposing, for the sake of argument, you use half a pound of butter in - making the <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. This sounds, to - ordinary cooks, very extravagant, even supposing butter to be only one - shilling per pound. Suppose, however, this half a pound of butter is - used as a means of going without a leg of mutton? That is the chief - point to be borne in mind in a variety of recipes to follow. The cream, - butter, and eggs are often recommended in what will appear as wholesale - quantities, but, as a set-off against this, you have no butcher’s - bill at all. We do not maintain that this apparently unlimited use of - butter, eggs, and occasionally cream, is necessary; but we believe that - there are many families who will be only able to make the change by - substituting “<em>nice</em>” dishes, at any rate at first - starting, to make up for the loss of the meat. It is only by - substituting a pleasant kind of food, that many will be induced even to - attempt to change. Gradually the living will become cheaper and - cheaper; but it is unwise to attempt, in a family, to do too much at - once. - </p> - - <p> - There are many soups we have given in which cream is recommended; for - instance, <a href="#artichokesoup024">artichoke soup</a>, <a - href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">bean soup</a>, <a - href="#cauliflowersoup028">cauliflower soup</a>, and <a href="#celerysoup029">celery soup</a>. - After partaking of a well-made - basin of one of these soups, followed by one or two vegetables and a - fruit pie or stewed fruit, there are many persons who would voluntarily - remark, “I don’t seem to care for any meat.” On the - other hand, were the vegetables served in the old-fashioned style, but - without any meat, there are many who would feel that they were - undergoing a species of privation, even if they did not say so—we - refer to a dish of plain-boiled potatoes and dry bread, or even the - ordinary cabbage served in the usual way. Supposing, however, a nice - little new cabbage is sent to table, with plenty of really good <a - href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> or <a - href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, over which has been sprinkled - a little bright green parsley, whilst some crisp fried bread surrounds - the dish—the cabbage is converted into a meal; and if we take - into account the absence of the meat, we still save enormously. The - advice we would give, especially to young housekeepers, is, - “Persuasion is better than force.” If you wish to teach a - child to swim, it is far easier to entice him into shallow water on a - hot summer’s day than to throw him in against his will in winter - time. - </p> - - <p> - Another point which we consider of great importance is - appearances. As far as possible, we should endeavour to make - the dishes look pretty. We are appealing to a very large - class throughout the country who at all cost wish to keep up - appearances. It is an important class, and one on which the - slow but gradual march of civilisation depends. We fear that - any attempt to improve the extreme poor, who live surrounded - by dirt and misery, would be hopeless, unless they still have - some lingering feeling of this self-respect. For the poor - woman who snatches a meal off bread-and-dripping, which - she eats without a table-cloth, and then repairs to the gin-shop - to wash it down, nothing can be done. This class will - gradually die out as civilisation advances. This is seen, even - in the present day, in America. - </p> - - <p> - Fortunately, there is plenty of scope in vegetarian cooking - not merely for refinement, but even elegance. Do not - despise the sprinkle of chopped parsley and red specks of - bread-crumbs coloured with cochineal, so often referred to - throughout the following pages. Remember that the cost of - these little accessories to comfort is virtually <em>nil</em>. We must - remember also that one sense works upon another. We can - please the palate through the eye. There is some undoubted - connection between these senses. If you doubt it, suck a - lemon in front of a German band and watch the result. The - sight of meat causes the saliva to run from the mouths of the - carnivorous animals at the Zoo. This is often noticeable in - the case of a dog watching people eat, and it is an old saying, - “It makes one’s mouth water to look at it.” In the case of - endeavouring to induce a change of living in grown-up persons, - such as husband or children, there is perhaps no method we - can pursue so efficacious as that of making dishes look pretty. - A dish of bright red tomatoes, reposing on the white bosom of a - bed of macaroni, relieved here and there by a few specks of green—what - a difference to a similar dish all mashed up together, - and in which the macaroni showed signs of dirty smears! - </p> - - <p> - We have endeavoured throughout this book to give chiefly directions - about those dishes which will replace meat. For instance, the vast - majority of pies and puddings will remain the same, and need no - detailed treatment here. Butter supplies the place of suet or lard, and - any ordinary, cookery-book will be found sufficient for the purpose; - but it is in dealing with <a href="#soups017">soups</a>, <a - href="#sauces044">sauces</a>, <a href="#rice060">rice</a>, <a - href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a>, and vegetables, sent to table under - new conditions, that we hope this book will be found most useful. - </p> - - <p> - As a rule, English women cooks, especially when their - title to the name depends upon their being the mistress of - the house, will often find that soups and sauces are a weak - point. Do not despise, in cooking, little things. Those who - really understand such matters will know how vast is the - difference in flavour occasioned by the addition of that pinch of - thyme or teaspoonful of savoury herbs, and yet there are tens - of thousands of houses, where meat is eaten every day, who - never had a bottle of thyme at their disposal in their lives. - As we have said, if we are going to make a great saving on - meat, we can well afford a few trifles, so long as they are - trifles. A sixpenny bottle of thyme will last for months; and - if we give up our gravy beef, or piece of pickled pork, or two-pennyworth - of bones, as the case may be, surely we can afford - a little indulgence of this kind. - </p> - - <p> - A few words on the subject of <a href="#fritters116">fritters</a>. When - will English housekeepers grasp the idea of frying? They cannot get - beyond a dab of grease or butter in a frying-pan. The bath of boiling - oil seems to be beyond them, or at any rate a degree of civilisation - that has not yet passed beyond the limit of the fried-fish shop. The - oil will do over and over again, and in the end is undoubtedly cheaper - than the dab of grease or butter thrown away. There are hundreds of men - who, in hot weather, would positively prefer a well-cooked vegetable - fritter to meat, but yet they rarely get it at home. Fruit fritters are - also very economical—<a href="#orangefritters120">orange - fritters</a>, <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>, &c., - because the batter helps to make the dish <em>a meal</em>. - </p> - - <p> - Those who have practised vegetarianism for many years - will probably be of opinion that we have not called sufficient - attention to the subject of fruit and nuts. This is not because - we do not believe in their usefulness, but because we think - that those who are <em>changing</em> their mode of living will be far - better enabled to do so without discomfort by making their - chief alterations in diet in the directions we have pointed out. - There is moreover little or no <em>cookery</em> involved in these articles. - </p> - - <p> - Of the wholesomeness of fresh fruit all are agreed; and as - people become more advanced vegetarians, the desire for fruit and - nuts will follow in due course. In future years, as the demand - increases, the supply will increase; but this is a question of time. - Lookers-on often see more of the game than the players. - It is not because the sudden change might not be beneficial, - but because sudden changes are only likely to be effected in - rare instances, that we have taken the view we have. Prejudice - is strong, and it would be very difficult to persuade - persons, unless they had been gradually brought to the change, - to regard nuts in the light of food. To suggest a meal off - Brazil nuts would to many have a tendency to put vegetarianism - in a ridiculous light, and nothing kills so readily as - ridicule. - </p> - - <p> - In conclusion, it will be observed that from time to time - we have used the expression, “if wine be allowed.” There is - no necessary connection between vegetarianism and teetotalism, - but it would be affectation to deny the fact that they are - generally connected. Of the numerous arguments brought - forward by the advocates of vegetarianism, one is that, in the - opinion of many who speak with authority, a vegetarian diet - is best adapted to those—of whom, unfortunately, there are - many—who, from time to time, have a craving for more stimulant - than is beneficial to their health. Many medical men - are of the opinion that large meat-eaters require alcoholic - stimulant, and that they can give up the latter more easily by - abstaining from the former. This is a question for medical - men to decide, as it does not properly come into the province - of the cook. - </p> - - <p> - We have repeatedly mentioned the addition of wine and - liqueurs; but when these are used for flavouring purposes it is - not to be regarded in the same light as if taken alone. There is - a common sense in these matters which should never be overlooked. - The teetotaler who attended the Lord Mayor’s dinner, - and refused his glass of punch with his turtle-soup, would be - consistent; but to refuse the turtle-soup itself on the ground - that a little wine, probably Madeira, might have been added, - would proclaim him to be a faddist. It is to be regretted that - in the present day so many good causes have been injured by - this ostentation of carrying ideas to an extreme. Practically, - where wine is used in cookery, it is added solely for the - peculiar flavour, and <em>the alcohol itself is evaporated</em>. To be - consistent, the vast majority of teetotal drinks, and possibly - even stewed fruit itself, would have to be refused on the same - ground, viz., an almost infinitely small trace of alcohol. We - think it best to explain the reason we have introduced the - expression, “if wine be allowed.” In each case it is used - for flavouring, and flavouring purposes only. We know - that with some persons a very small amount of stimulant - creates a desire for more, and when this is the case the - small quantity should be avoided; but in the case of the - quantity being so infinitely small that it ceases to have this - effect, even if not boiled away as it really is, no harm can - possibly arise. Where wine is added to soups and sauces and - exposed to heat, this would be the case. On the other hand, - in the case of tipsy-cake, and wine added to <em>compote</em> of fruit, - this would probably not be the case. A great distinction - should be drawn between such cases. It will be found, however, - that in every case we have mentioned the addition is - altogether optional, or a substitute like lemon-juice can be - used in its place. - </p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h1>VEGETARIAN COOKERY</h1> - - <hr /> - - <h2 id="chapter1">CHAPTER 1.</h2> - - <h3 id="soups017">SOUPS.</h3> - - <h4 id="soupgeneral017">GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.</h4> - - <p class="first"> - There are very few persons, unless they have made vegetarian - cookery a study, who are aware what a great variety - of soups can be made without the use of meat or fish. As a - rule, ordinary cookery-books have the one exception of what - is called <em>soup maigre</em>. In England it seems to be the impression - that the goodness of the soup depends upon the - amount of nourishment that can be compressed into a small - space. It is, however, a great mistake to think that because - we take a large amount of nourishment we are necessarily - nourished. There is a limit, though what that limit is no - one can say, beyond which soup becomes absolutely injurious. - A quarter of a pound of Liebig’s Extract of Meat dissolved - in half a pint of water is obviously an over-dose of what is - considered nourishment. In France, as a rule, soup is prepared - on an altogether different idea. It is a light, thin - broth, taken at the commencement of the meal to strengthen - the stomach, in order to render it capable of receiving more - substantial food to follow. Vegetarian soups are, of course, - to be considered from this latter point of view. - </p> -<p> -We think these few preliminary observations necessary -as we have to overcome a very strong English prejudice, -which is too apt to despise everything of which the remark -can be made—“Ah! but there is very little nourishment -in it.” Vegetarian soups, as a rule, and especially the thin -ones, must be regarded as a light and pleasant flavouring which, -with a small piece of white bread enables the most obstinately -delicate stomach to commence a repast that experience has -found best adapted to its requirements. -</p> - -<p> -The basis of all soup is <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, and in making stock -we, of course, have to depend upon vegetables, fruit, or some kind of -farinaceous food. To a certain extent the water in which any kind of -vegetable has been boiled may be regarded as stock, especially water that -has boiled roots, such as potatoes; or grains, such as rice. It will not, -however, be necessary to enter into any general description as to the best -method of obtaining nutriment in a liquid form from vegetables and grain, -as directions will be given in each recipe, but a few words are necessary -on the general subject of flavouring stock. In making ordinary soup we are -very much dependent for flavour, if the soup be good, on the meat, the -vegetables acting only as accessories. In making stock for vegetarian soups -we are chiefly dependent for flavour on the vegetables themselves, and -consequently great care must be taken that these flavourings are properly -<em>blended</em>. The great difficulty in giving directions in -cookery-books, and in understanding them when given, is the insuperable one -of avoiding vague expressions. For instance, suppose we read, “Take -two onions, one carrot, one turnip, and one head of -celery,”—what does this mean? It will be found practically that -these directions vary considerably according to the neighbourhood or part -of the country in which we live. For instance, so much depends upon where -we take our head of celery from. Suppose we bought our head of celery in -Bond Street or the Central Arcade in Covent Garden Market on the one hand, -or off a barrow in the Mile End Road on the other. Again, onions vary so -much in size that we cannot draw any hard-and-fast line between a little -pickling onion no bigger than a marble and a Spanish onion as big as a -baby’s head. It would be possible to be very precise and say, -“Take so many ounces of celery, or so many pounds of carrot,” -but practically we cannot turn the kitchen into a chemist’s shop. -Cooks, whether told to use celery in heads or ounces, would act on -guess-work just the same. What are absolutely essential are two -things—common sense and experience. -</p> - -<p> -Again, practically, we must avoid giving too many ingredients. -Novices in the art of cooking are, of course, unable to -distinguish between those vegetables that are absolutely -essential and those added to give a slight extra flavour, but -which make very little difference to the soup whether they are -added or not. We are often directed to add a few leaves of -tarragon, or chervil, or a handful of sorrel. Of course, in a -large kitchen, presided over by a Francatelli, these are easily -obtainable; but in ordinary private houses, and in most parts of -the country, they are not only unobtainable but have never -even been heard of at the greengrocer’s shop. -</p> - -<p> -In making soups, as a rule, the four vegetables essential are, -onion, celery, carrot and turnip; and we place them in their -order of merit. In making vegetarian soup it is very important -that we should learn how to blend these without making any -one flavour too predominant. This can only be learnt by experience. -If we have too much onion the soup tastes rank; too -much celery will make it bitter; too much carrot often renders -the soup sweet; and the turnip overpowers every other flavour. -Again, these vegetables vary so much in strength that were -we to peel and weigh them the result would not be uniform, in -addition to the fact that not one cook in a thousand would -take the trouble to do it. Perhaps the most dangerous vegetable -with which we have to deal is turnip. These vary so very -much in strength that sometimes even one slice of turnip will -be found too strong. In flavouring soups with these vegetables, -the first care should be to see that they are thoroughly cleansed. -In using celery, too much of the green part should be avoided -if you wish to make first-rate soup. In using the onions, if -they are old and strong, the core can be removed. In using -carrot, if you are going to have any soup where vegetables will -be cut up and served in the soup, you should always peel off -the outside red part of the carrot and reserve it for this purpose, -and only use the inside or yellow part for flavouring purposes -if is going to be thrown away or to lose its identity by -being rubbed through a wire sieve with other vegetables. With -regard to turnip, we can only add one word of caution—not too -much. We may here mention, before leaving the subject of -ingredients, that leeks and garlic are a substitute for onion, -and can also be used in conjunction with it. -</p> - -<p> -As a rule, in vegetarian cookery clear soups are rare, and, -of course, from an economical point of view, they are not to -be compared with thick soups. Some persons, in making stock, -recommend what is termed bran tea. Half a pint of bran is -boiled in about three pints of water, and a certain amount of -nutriment can be extracted from the bran, which also imparts -colour. -</p> - -<p> -For the purpose of colouring clear soups, however, there is -nothing in the world to compare with what French cooks call -<em>caramel</em>. Caramel is really burnt sugar. There is a -considerable art in preparing it, as it is necessary that it should -impart colour, and colour <em>only</em>. When prepared in the rough-and-ready -manner of burning sugar in a spoon, as is too often -practised in English kitchens, this desideratum is never attained, -as you are bound to impart sweetness in addition to a burnt -flavour. The simplest and by far the most economical method -of using caramel is to buy it ready-made. It is sold by -all grocers under the name of Parisian Essence. A small -bottle, costing about eightpence, will last a year, and saves an -infinite loss of time, trouble, and temper. -</p> - -<p> -By far the most economical soups are the thick, where all -the ingredients can be rubbed through a wire sieve. Thick -soups can be divided into two classes—ordinary brown soup, -and white soup. The ordinary brown is the most economical, -as in white soups milk is essential, and if the soup is wished -to be very good it is necessary to add a little cream. -</p> - -<p> -Soups owe their thickness to two processes. We can thicken the soup by -adding flour of various kinds, such as ordinary flour, corn-flour, &c., -and soup can also be thickened by having some of the ingredients of which -it is composed rubbed through a sieve. This class of soups may be called -Purées. For instance, <a href="#artichokesoup024">Palestine soup</a> -is really a purée of Jerusalem artichokes; ordinary <a -href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a> is a purée of split peas. -In making our ordinary vegetarian soups of all kinds, as a rule, all the -ingredients should be rubbed through a sieve. The economy of this is -obvious on the face of it. In the case of thickening soup by means of some -kinds of flour, for richness and flavour there is nothing to equal ordinary -flour that has been cooked. This is what Frenchmen call roux. -</p> - -<p> -As <a href="#roux022">white and brown roux</a> are the very backbone of -vegetarian cookery a few words of explanation may not be out of place. On -referring to the recipe for making white and brown roux, it will be seen -that it is simply flour cooked by means of frying it in butter, In white -roux each grain of flour is cooked till it is done. In brown roux each -grain of flour is cooked till it is done brown. We cannot exaggerate the -importance of getting cooks to see the enormous difference between -thickening soups or gravy with white or brown roux and simply thickening -them with plain butter and flour. The taste of the soup in the two cases is -altogether different. The difference is this. Suppose you have just been -making some pastry—some good, rich, puff paste—you have got two -pies, and, as you probably know, this pastry is simply butter and flour. -Place one pie in the oven and bake it till it is a nice rich brown. Now -taste the pie-crust. It is probably delicious. Now taste the piece of the -pie that has not been baked at all. It is nauseous. The difference -is—one is butter and flour that has been cooked, the other is butter -and flour that has not been cooked. -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p> -One word of warning in conclusion. Cooks should always -remember the good old saying—that it is quite possible to have -too much of a good thing. They should be particularly warned -to bear this in mind in adding herbs, such as ordinary mixed -flavouring herbs, or, as they are sometimes called, savoury -herbs, and thyme. This is also very important if wine is -added to soup, though, as a rule, vegetarians rarely use wine -in cooking; but the same principle applies to the substitute for -wine— viz., lemon juice. It is equally important to bear this -in mind in using white and brown roux. If we make the soup -too thick we spoil it, and it is necessary to add water to bring -it to its proper consistency, which, of course, diminishes the -flavour. The proper consistency of any soup thickened with -roux should be that of ordinary cream. Beyond this point the -cooked flour will overpower almost every other flavour, and -the great beauty of vegetarian cookery is its simplicity, it -appeals to a taste that is refined and natural, and not to one -that has been depraved. -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p id="stock021"> -<strong>Stock.</strong>—Strictly speaking, in vegetarian cookery, -stock is the goodness and flavouring that can be extracted from vegetables, -the chief ones being onion, celery, carrot, and turnip. In order to make -stock, take these vegetables, cut them up into small pieces, after having -thoroughly cleansed them, place them in a saucepan with sufficient water to -cover them, and let them boil gently for several hours. The liquor, when -strained off, may be called stock. It can be flavoured with a small -quantity of savoury herbs, pepper, and salt, as well as a little mushroom -ketchup. It can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence, or burnt -sugar. Its consistency can be improved by the addition of a small quantity -of corn-flour. Sufficient corn-flour must be added not to make it thick but -like very thin gum. In a broader sense, the water in which rice, lentils, -beans and potatoes have been boiled may be called stock. Again, the water -in which macaroni, vermicelli, sparghetti, and all kinds of Italian paste -has been boiled, may be called stock. The use of liquors of this kind must -be left to the common sense of the cook, as, of course, it would only be -obtainable when these materials are required for use. -</p> - -<p id="roux022"> -<strong>Brown and White Thickening, or Roux.</strong>—It is of great -importance for vegetarians always to have on hand a fairly -good <a href="#stock021">stock</a> of white and brown roux, as it is a great saving -both of time and money. As roux will keep good for weeks, -and even months, there is no fear of waste in making a -quantity at a time. Take a pound of flour, with a spoonful or -two over; see that it is thoroughly dry, and then sift it. Next -take a pound of butter and squeeze it in a cloth so as as much -as possible to extract all the moisture from it. Next take a -stew-pan—an enamelled one is best—and melt the butter till -it runs to oil. It will now be found that, although the bulk -of the butter looks like oil, a certain amount of froth will rise -to the top. This must be carefully skimmed off. Continue -to expose the butter to a gentle heat till the scum ceases to -rise. Now pour off the oiled butter very gently into a basin till -you come to some dregs. These should be thrown away, or, -at any rate, not used in making the roux. Now mix the -pound of dried and sifted flour with the oiled butter, which is -what the French cooks call clarified butter. Place it back in -the stew-pan, put the stew-pan over a tolerably good fire, but -not too fierce, as there is a danger of its burning. With a -wooden spoon keep stirring this mixture, and keep scraping -the bottom of the stew-pan, first in one place and then in -another, being specially careful of the edges, to prevent its -burning. Gradually the mixture will begin to turn colour. As -soon as this turn of colour is perceptible take out half and put it -in a basin. This is the white roux, viz., flour cooked in butter -but not discoloured beyond a very trifling amount. Keep the -stew-pan on the fire, and go on stirring the remainder, which -will get gradually darker and darker in colour. As soon as -the colour is that of light chocolate remove the stew-pan from -the fire altogether, but still continue scraping and stirring -for a few minutes longer, as the enamel retains the heat to -such an extent that it will sometimes burn after it has been -removed from the fire. It is important not to have the -mixture too dark, and it will be found by experience that it -gets darker after the stew-pan has been removed from the fire. -When we say light chocolate we refer to the colour of a cake -of chocolate that has been broken. The inside is the colour, not -the outside. It is advisable sometimes to have by you ready -a large slice of onion, and if you think it is dark enough you -can throw this in and immediately by this means slacken the -heat. Pour the brown roux into a separate basin, and put -them by for use. -</p> - -<p id="soups023"> -In the houses of most vegetarians more white roux will be -used than brown, consequently more than half should be removed -if this is the case when the roux first commences to -turn colour. When the brown roux gets cold it has all the -appearance of chocolate, and when you use it it is best to -scrape off the quantity you require with a spoon, and not add -it to soups or sauces in one lump. -</p> - -<p id="almondsoup023"> -<strong>Almond Soup.</strong>—Take half a pound of sweet almonds and -blanch them, <em>i.e.</em>, throw them into boiling water till the outside -skin can be rubbed off easily with the finger. Then immediately throw the -white almonds into cold water, otherwise they will quickly lose their white -colour like potatoes that have been peeled. Next, slice up an onion and -half a small head of celery, and let these simmer gently in a quart of -milk. In the meantime pound the almonds with four hard-boiled yolks of egg, -strain off the milk and add the pounded almonds and egg to the milk -gradually, and let it boil over the fire. Add sufficient <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a> till the soup becomes of the consistency of -cream. Serve some fried or toasted bread with the soup. It is a great -improvement to add half a pint of cream, but this makes the soup much more -expensive. The soup can be flavoured with a little white pepper. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—The onion and celery that was strained off can be -used again for flavouring purposes. -</p> - -<p id="applesoup024"> -<strong>Apple Soup.</strong>—This is a German recipe. Take half a dozen -good-sized apples, peel them and remove the core, and boil them -in a quart of water with two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; -add the juice of a lemon, and flavour it with rather less than -a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon; sweeten the soup -with lump sugar, previously having rubbed six lumps on the -outside of the lemon. -</p> - -<p id="artichokesoup024"> -<strong>Artichoke Soup.</strong>—Take a dozen large Jerusalem artichokes -about as big as the fist, or more to make up a similar quantity. -Peel them, and, like potatoes, throw them into cold water in -order to prevent them turning colour. Boil them in as little -water as possible, as they contain a good deal of water themselves, -till they are tender and become a pulp, taking care that -they do not burn, and therefore it is best to rub the saucepan -at the bottom with a piece of butter. Now rub them through -a wire sieve and add them to a pint of milk in which a couple -of bay-leaves have been boiled. Add also two lumps of sugar -and a little white pepper and salt. Serve the soup with fried -or toasted bread. This soup can be made much richer by the -addition of either a quarter of a pint of cream or a couple of -yolks of eggs. If yolks of eggs are added, beat up the yolks -separately and add the soup gradually, very hot, but not quite -boiling, otherwise the yolks will curdle. -</p> - -<p id="asparagussoup024"> -<strong>Asparagus Soup.</strong>—Take a good-sized bundle (about -fifty large heads) of asparagus, and after a thorough cleansing throw them -into a saucepan of boiling water that has been salted. When the tops become -tender, drain off the asparagus and throw it into cold water, as by this -means we retain the bright green colour; when cold cut off all the best -part of the green into little pieces, about half an inch long, then put the -remainder of the asparagus—the stalk part—into a saucepan, with -a few green onions and a few sprigs of parsley, with about a quart of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> -or water; add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar and a very little grated -nutmeg. Let this boil till the stalks become quite tender, then rub the -whole through a wire sieve and thicken the soup with a little <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, and colour it a bright green with some <a -href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a>. Now add the little pieces -cut up, and let the whole simmer gently, and serve fried or toasted bread -with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="spinachextract025"> -N.B.—<strong>Spinach Extract.</strong>—It is very important in making -all green vegetable soups that they should be of a green -colour, such as the one above mentioned—<a -href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">green-pea soup</a>, &c., -and that we get a <em>good</em> colour, and this is only to be obtained -by means of spinach extract. Spinach extract can be made at -home, but it will be found to be far more economical to have a -small bottle of green vegetable colouring always in the house. -These bottles can be obtained from all grocers at the cost of -about tenpence or one shilling each. Such a very small -quantity goes such a long way that one bottle would probably -last a family of six persons twelve months. As we have said, -it can be made at home, but the process, though not difficult, -is troublesome. It is made as follows:—A quantity of -spinach has, after being thoroughly washed, to be pounded in -a mortar until it becomes a pulp. This pulp is then placed in -a very strong, coarse cloth, and the cloth is twisted till the -juice of the spinach is squeezed out through the cloth. The -amount of force required is very considerable and is almost -beyond the power of ordinary women cooks. This juice must -now be placed in a small enamelled saucepan, and must be -heated till it becomes thick and pulpy, when it can be put by -for use. It will probably be found cheaper to buy spinach -extract than to make it, as manual labour cannot compete -with machinery. -</p> - -<p id="barleysoup025"> -<strong>Barley Soup.</strong>—Take two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley -and wash it in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Put -this in a saucepan with about two quarts of water, two onions sliced up, a -few potatoes sliced very thin, and about a saltspoonful of thyme. Let the -whole boil gently for four or five hours, till the barley is quite soft and -eatable. Thicken the soup very slightly with a little <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, season it with pepper and salt. Before -serving the soup, add a tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>N.B.</strong>—When chopped parsley is added to any soup or -sauce, such as parsley and butter, it is very important that -the parsley be blanched. To blanch parsley means to throw -it for a few seconds into boiling water. By this means a dull -green becomes a bright green. The best method to blanch -parsley is to place it in a strainer and dip the strainer for a -few seconds in a saucepan of boiling water. By comparing -the colour of the parsley that has been so treated with some -that has not been blanched, cooks will at once see the importance -of the operation so far as appearances are concerned. -</p> - -<p id="beetrootsoup026"> -<strong>Beetroot Soup</strong>.—This soup is better adapted to the German -palate than the English, as it contains both vinegar and sugar, -which are very characteristic of German cookery. Take two -large beetroots and two good-sized onions, and after peeling -the beetroots boil them and mince them finely, adding them, -of course, to the water in which they were boiled, or still -better, they can be boiled in some sort of <a href="#stock021">stock</a>. Add a very -small quantity of corn-flour, to give a slight consistency to the -soup, as well as a little pinch of thyme. Next add two tablespoonfuls -of vinegar—more or less according to taste—a -spoonful of brown sugar, and a little pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="redharicotbeansoup026"> -<strong>Bean Soup, or Purée of Red Haricot Beans</strong>.—Put a quart -of red haricot beans into soak overnight, and put a little -piece of soda in the water to soften it. The next morning put -the beans on to boil in three quarts of water, with some -carrot, celery and onion, or the beans can be boiled in some -<a href="#stock021">stock</a> made from these vegetables. After the beans are tender, -pound them in a mortar, and then rub the whole through a -wire sieve, after first removing the carrot, celery and onion. -Add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar and about two ounces of -butter. Fried or toasted bread should be served with the -soup. If the soup is liked thin, of course more water can -be added. -</p> - -<p id="whiteharicotbeansoup026"> -<strong>Bean Soup, or Purée of White Haricot Beans</strong>.—Proceed -exactly as in the above recipe, only substituting white haricot -beans for red. It is a great improvement to add a little -boiling cream, but of course this makes the soup much more -expensive. Some cooks add a spoonful of blanched, chopped -parsley to this purée, and Frenchmen generally flavour this -soup with garlic. -</p> - -<p id="greenbeansoup027"> -<strong>Bean Soup, Green</strong>.—Boil a quart of ordinary -broad-beans in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water with an onion, carrot and celery. Remove -the skins when the beans are tender and rub the beans through a wire sieve. -Colour the soup with a little <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a>—(vegetable colouring, -sold in bottles)—add a little piece of butter, a little powdered -sugar, pepper and salt. The amount of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water must depend upon -whether it is wished to have the purée thick or thin. Some -purées are made as thick as <a href="#breadsauce045">bread -sauce</a>, while some persons prefer them much thinner. This is purely a -matter of taste. -</p> - -<p id="frenchbeansoup027"> -<strong>Bean Soup from French Beans</strong>.—This is an admirable -method of using up French beans or scarlet runners when -they get too old to be boiled as a vegetable in the ordinary -way. Take any quantity of French beans and boil them in -some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water with an onion, carrot, or celery for about -an hour, taking care, at starting, to throw them into boiling -water in order to preserve their colour. It is also a saving of -trouble to chop the beans slightly at starting, <em>i.e.</em>, take a bunch -of beans in the left hand and cut them into pieces, say an -eighth of an inch in thickness. Boil them till they are -tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Add a -little butter, pepper and salt, and colour the soup with spinach -extract—(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles). Serve toasted -or fried bread with the purée, which should be rather thick. -</p> - -<p id="cabbagesoup027"> -<strong>Cabbage Soup</strong>.—Take a white cabbage and slice it up, and -throw it into some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, with some leeks and slices of -turnip. Boil the whole till the vegetables are tender, flavour -with pepper and salt. This is sometimes called Cornish broth, -though in Cornwall a piece of meat or bones are generally -boiled with the vegetables. As no meat, of course, is used, too -much water must not be added, but only sufficient liquor must -be served to make the vegetables thoroughly moist. Perhaps -the consistency can best be described by saying that there -should be equal quantities of vegetables and fluid. -</p> - -<p id="carrotsoup027"> -<strong>Carrot Soup</strong>.—If you wish this soup to be of a good colour, -you must only use the outside, or red part, of the carrot, in -which case a dozen large carrots will be required. If economy -is practised, half this quantity will be sufficient. Take, say, -half a dozen carrots, a small head of celery, and one onion, and -throw them into boiling water for a few minutes in order to -preserve the colour. Then drain them off and place them in a -saucepan, with a couple of ounces of butter to prevent them -sticking and burning, and place the saucepan on a very slack -fire and let them stew so that the steam can escape, but take -care they don’t burn or get brown. Now add a quart or two -quarts of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water and boil them till they are tender. -Then rub the whole through a wire sieve, add a little butter, -pounded sugar, pepper, and salt. The amount of liquid added -must entirely depend upon the size of the carrots. It is better -to add too little than too much, but the consistency of the -soup should be like ordinary <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>; it does not do to have -the soup watery. If only the outside parts of carrots are used, -and this red part is thrown, at starting, into boiling water to -preserve its colour, this soup, when made thick, has a very -bright and handsome appearance, and is suitable for occasions -when a little extra hospitality is exercised. The inside part of -the carrot, if not used for making the soup, need not be wasted, -but can be used for making <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, or served in a dish of mixed -vegetables on some other occasion. -</p> - -<p id="cauliflowersoup028"> -<strong>Cauliflower Soup.</strong>—Take three or four small cauliflowers, -or two large ones, soak them in salt and water, and boil them -in some water till they are nearly tender. Take them out and -break the cauliflower so that you get two or three dozen little -pieces out of the heart of the cauliflower, somewhat resembling -miniature bouquets. Put the rest of the cauliflower back into -the water in which it was boiled, with the exception of the -green part of the leaves, with an onion and some of the white part -of a head of celery. Let all boil till the water has nearly boiled -away. Now rub all this through a wire sieve, onions, celery, cauliflower, -and all; add to it sufficient boiling milk to make the -whole of the consistency of <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. Add a little butter, -pepper, and salt; throw in those little pieces of cauliflower that -had been reserved a minute or two before serving the soup. It -is an improvement to boil two or three bay-leaves with the -milk, and also a very great improvement indeed to add a little -boiling cream. Fried or toasted bread should be served with -the soup. -</p> - -<p id="celerysoup029"> -<strong>Celery Soup.</strong>—Take half a dozen heads of celery, or a -smaller quantity if the heads of celery are very large; throw -away all the green part and cut up the celery into small pieces, -with one onion sliced, and place them in a frying-pan, or, -better still, in an enamelled stew-pan, and stew them in a little -butter, taking great care that the celery does not turn colour. -Now add sufficient water or <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, and let it all boil till the -celery becomes quite tender. Let it boil till it becomes a pulp, -and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Next boil -separately from one to two quarts of milk according to the -quantity of celery pulp, and boil a couple of bay-leaves in the -milk. As soon as the milk boils add it to the celery pulp, -flavour the soup with pepper and salt; serve fried or toasted -bread with the soup. It is needless to say that all these white -soups are greatly improved both in appearance and flavour by -the addition of a little cream. -</p> - -<p id="cheesesoup029"> -<strong>Cheese Soup.</strong>—Light-coloured and dry cheese is -necessary for this somewhat peculiar soup, but the best cheese of all is, -undoubtedly, Gruyère. Grate half a pound of cheese and spread a -layer of this at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Cover this layer of cheese -with some very thin slices of stale crumb of bread. Then put another layer -of cheese and another layer of bread till all the cheese is used up. Next -take about two tablespoonfuls of <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, melt -this in a small saucepan, and add two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion. Let -the onion cook in the melted roux over the fire, and then add a quart of -water, and stir it all up till it boils, adding pepper and salt and a few -drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar) to give it a dark brown colour. Now -pour the boiling soup over the contents of the soup-tureen, and let it -stand a few minutes so that the bread has time to soak, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="cherrysoup029"> -<strong>Cherry Soup.</strong>—Like most soups that are either sweet or -sour, this is a German recipe. Put a piece of butter, the size -of a large egg, into a saucepan. Let it melt, then mix it with -a tablespoonful of flour, and stir smoothly until it is lightly -browned. Add gradually two pints of water, a pound of black -cherries, picked and washed, and a few cloves. Let these boil -until the fruit is quite tender, then press the whole through a -sieve. After straining, add a little port, if wine is allowed—but -the soup will be very nice without this addition—half a teaspoonful -of the kernels, blanched and bruised, a tablespoonful -of sugar, and a few whole cherries. Let the soup boil again -until the cherries are tender, and pour all into a tureen over -toasted sippets, sponge-cakes, or macaroons. -</p> - -<p id="chestnutsoup030"> -<strong>Chestnut Soup, or Purée of Chestnuts.</strong>—Take -four dozen chestnuts and peel them. This will be a very long process if we -attempt to take off the skins while they are raw; but in order to save time -and trouble, place the chestnuts in a stew-pan with a couple of ounces of -butter. Place them on a slack fire and occasionally give them a stir. Heat -them gradually till the husks come off without any difficulty. Having -removed all the husks, add sufficient <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water to the chestnuts, and -let them boil gently till they are tender. Then pound them in a mortar and -rub them through a wire sieve. Add a very little <a href="#roux022">brown -roux</a>, if the soup is to be brown, and a few drops of Parisian essence -(burnt sugar), or a little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a> and a little -cream if the soup is to be white. Add also a little pepper and salt, -sufficient butter to make the purée taste soft, and a little -powdered sugar. Fried and toasted bread should be served with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="cottagesoup030"> -<strong>Cottage Soup.</strong>—Fry two onions, a carrot and a turnip, and -a small head of celery cut up into small pieces, in a frying-pan, -with a little butter, till they are lightly browned. Then put -them in a saucepan, with about two quarts of water and a tablespoonful -of mixed savoury herbs. Let this boil till the vegetables -are quite tender, and then thicken the soup with two -ounces of oatmeal or prepared barley. This must be mixed -with cold water and made quite smooth before it is added to -the soup. Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil this in -the soup, and when the rice is quite tender the soup can be -served. Some persons add a little sugar, and dried powdered -mint can be handed round with the soup, like <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. -</p> - -<p id="clearsoup030"> -<strong>Clear Soup.</strong>—Make a very strong <a href="#stock021">stock</a> by cutting up -onion, celery, carrot, and a little turnip, and boiling them in -some water. They should boil for two or three hours. Add -also a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs to every quart, and -colour the stock with a few drops of Parisian essence. Strain -it off, and, if it is not bright, clear it with some white of egg -in the ordinary way. Take only sufficient corn-flour to make -the soup less thin or watery, but do not make it thick. A -tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup can be added to every -quart. -</p> - -<p id="cocoanutsoup031"> -<strong>Cocoanut Soup.</strong>—Break open a good-sized cocoanut and -grate sufficient of the white part till it weighs half a pound. -Boil this in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, and after it has boiled for about an hour -strain it off. Only a small quantity of stock must be used, -and the cocoanut should be pressed and squeezed, so as to -extract all the goodness. Add a little pepper and salt, and -about half a grated nutmeg. Next boil separately three pints -of milk, and add this to the strained soup. Thicken the soup -with some ground rice, and serve. Of course, a little cream -would be a great improvement. Serve with toasted or fried -bread. -</p> - -<p id="endivesoup031"> -<strong>Endive Soup, or Purée.</strong>—Take half a dozen endives that -are white in the centre, and wash them very thoroughly in salt -and water, as they are apt to contain insects. Next throw. -them into boiling water, and let them boil for a quarter of an -hour. Then take them out and throw them into cold water. -Next take them out of the cold water and squeeze them in a -cloth so as to extract all the moisture. Then cut off the root -of each endive, chop up all the white leaves, and place them -in a stew-pan with about two ounces of butter. Add half a -grated nutmeg, a brimming teaspoonful of powdered white -sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Stir them over the fire -with a wooden spoon, and take care they don’t burn or turn -colour. Next add sufficient milk to moisten them, and let -them simmer gently till they are tender; then rub the whole -through a wire sieve, add a little piece of butter, and serve -with fried or toasted bread. -</p> - -<p id="fruitsoup031"> -<strong>Fruit Soup.</strong>—Fruit soup can be made from rhubarb, vegetable -marrow, cucumber, gourd, or pumpkin. They may be all -mixed with a little cream, milk, or butter, and form a nice -dish that is both healthful and delicate. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Green Pea Soup.</strong>—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">PEA</a>.) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Green Pea Soup, Dried.</strong>—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">PEA</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="haresoup032"> -<strong>Hare Soup (Imitation).</strong>—Take one large carrot, a -small head of celery, one good-sized onion, and half a small turnip, and -boil these in a quart of water till they are tender. Rub the whole through -a wire sieve, and thicken the soup with some <a href="#roux022">brown -roux</a> till it is as thick as good cream. Next add a brimming -saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. These herbs are sold in bottles -by all grocers under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. Flavour the soup with -cayenne pepper, a glass of port wine (port wine dregs will do), dissolve in -it a small dessertspoonful of <a href="#redcurrantjelly161">red-currant -jelly</a>, and add the juice of half a lemon. -</p> - -<p id="herbaciousmixture032"> -N.B.—Aromatic flavouring herbs are exceedingly useful in -cooking. It is cheaper to buy them ready made, under the -name of Herbaceous Mixture. They can, however, be made -at home as follows:—Take two ounces of white peppercorns, -two ounces of cloves, one ounce of marjoram, one ounce of -sweet basil and one ounce of lemon-thyme, one ounce of powdered -nutmeg, one ounce of powdered mace, and half an ounce -of dried bay-leaves. The herbs must be wrapped up in paper -(one or two little paper bags, one inside the other, is best), and -dried very slowly in the oven till they are brittle. They must -then be pounded in a mortar, and mixed with the spices, and -the whole sifted through a fine hair-sieve and put by in a -stoppered bottle for use. -</p> - -<p id="hotchpotch032"> -<strong>Hotch-potch.</strong>—Cut up some celery, onion, carrot, turnip, -and leeks into small pieces and fry them for a few minutes in -about two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, very gently, taking -care that they do not in the least degree turn colour. Previous -to this, wash and boil about a quarter of a pound of pearl -barley for four or five hours. When the barley is tender, or -nearly tender, add the contents of the frying-pan. Let it all -boil till the vegetables are tender, and about half an hour -before the soup is sent to table throw in, while the soup is -boiling, half a pint of fresh green peas—those known as -marrowfats are best,—and about five minutes before sending -the soup to table throw in a spoonful (in the proportion of a -dessertspoonful to every quart) of chopped, blanched parsley—<em>i.e.</em>, -parsley that has been thrown into boiling water before it -is chopped. Colour the soup green with a little spinach -extract (vegetable colouring sold in bottles by all grocers). -The thinness of the soup can be removed by the addition -of a small quantity of <a href="#roux022">white roux</a>. -</p> - -<p id="jardinieresoup033"> -<strong>Jardinière Soup.</strong>—Cut up into thin strips some -carrot, turnip and celery, add a dozen or more small button onions, similar -to those used for pickling, and also a few hearts of lettuces cut up fine, -as well as a few fresh tarragon leaves cut into strips as thin as small -string. Simmer these gently in some clear soup (<em>see</em> <a -href="#clearsoup030">CLEAR SOUP</a>) till tender; add a lump of sugar, and -serve. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—The tarragon should not be thrown in till the last -minute. -</p> - -<p id="juliennesoup033"> -<strong>Julienne Soup.</strong>—This soup is exactly similar to the -previous one, the only exception being that all the vegetables are first -stewed very gently, till they are tender, in a little butter. Care should -be taken that the vegetables do not turn colour. -</p> - -<p id="leeksoup033"> -<strong>Leek Soup.</strong>- -Take half a dozen or more fine large leeks, -and after trimming off the green part, throw them into boiling water for -five minutes, then drain them off and dry them. Cut them into pieces about -half an inch long, and stew them gently in a little butter till they are -tender. Add three pints of milk, and let two bay-leaves boil in the milk, -flavour with pepper and salt, and add a suspicion of grated nutmeg. Thicken -the soup with a little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a> and take the crust -of a French roll. Cut this up into small pieces or rings. The rings can be -made by simply scooping out the crumb, and cutting the roll across. When -the leeks have boiled in the milk till they are quite tender, pour the soup -over the crusts placed at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Some cooks add -blanched parsley. Of course, cream would be a great improvement. -</p> - -<p id="lentilsoup033"> -<strong>Lentil Soup.</strong>—Take a breakfastcupful of green lentils and -put them to soak in cold water overnight. In the morning -throw away any floating on the top. Drain the lentils and -put them in a stew-pan or saucepan with some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, -and add two onions, two carrots, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, -a small teaspoonful of savoury herbs and a small head of celery. -If you have no celery add half a teaspoonful of bruised celery -seed. You can also add a crust of stale bread. Let the whole -boil, and it will be found that occasionally a dark film will -rise to the surface. This must be skimmed off. The soup -must boil for about four hours, or at any rate till the lentils -are thoroughly soft. Then strain the soup through a wire -sieve, and rub the whole of the contents through the wire sieve -with the soup. This requires both time and patience. After -the whole has been rubbed through the sieve the soup must be -boiled up, and if made from green lentils it can be coloured -green with some <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a>—(vegetable colouring, -sold in bottles). If made from Egyptian (red) lentils, the -soup can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence -(burnt sugar). In warming up this soup, after the lentils -have been rubbed through a sieve, it should be borne in -mind that the lentil powder has a tendency to settle, and -consequently the saucepan must be constantly stirred to prevent -it burning. In serving the soup at table, the contents -of the soup-tureen should be stirred with the soup-ladle before -each help. -</p> - -<p id="lentilalasoubise034"> -<strong>Lentil Purée à la Soubise</strong>.—This is -really lentil soup, made as above, rather thick, to which has been added a -purée of onions, made as follows:—Slice up, say four large -onions, and fry them brown in a little butter, then boil them in some of -the broth of the soup till they are tender. Rub them through a wire sieve -and add them to the soup. -</p> - -<p id="clearmacaronisoup034"> -<strong>Macaroni Soup (clear)</strong>.—Take some macaroni and break -it up into pieces about two inches long. Boil them till they -are tender in some salted water, drain them off and add them -to some clear soup. (<em>See</em> <a href="#clearsoup030">CLEAR SOUP</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="thickmacaronisoup034"> -<strong>Macaroni Soup (thick)</strong>.—Take an onion, carrot, a -small head of celery and a very small quantity of turnip; cut them up and -boil them in a very small quantity of water for about an hour. Then rub the -whole through a wire sieve, add a quart or more of boiling milk, throw in -the macaroni, after breaking it up into pieces two inches long, and let the -macaroni simmer in this till it is perfectly tender. The soup should be -thickened with a very little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a>, a bay-leaf -can be boiled in the soup; a small quantity of cream is a great -improvement. Fried or toasted bread should be served with it. -</p> - -<p id="milksoup035"> -<strong>Milk Soup.</strong>—Milk soup, as it is sometimes called in Germany, -very much resembles English custard. It is made by -putting a quart of milk on the fire and thickening it with two -yolks of eggs and a little flour, and sweetening it with sugar. -The soup is flavoured with either vanilla, lemon, laurel leaves, -pounded almonds, cinnamon, chocolate, &c. As a soup, however, -it is not suited to the English palate. -</p> - -<p id="mockturtlesoup035"> -<strong>Mock Turtle, Imitation.</strong>—Take an onion, carrot, small -head of celery, and some turnip, and boil them till they are tender in some -<a href="#stock021">stock</a>. The water in which some rice has been boiled -is very well suited for the purpose. Add also to every quart a brimming -tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, -thicken it with <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a> till it is as thick as -cream; add a few drops of Parisian essence—(sold in bottles by all -grocers)—to give it a dark colour. Add a wineglassful of sherry or -Madeira, or, if the use of wine be objected to, the juice of a hard lemon. -Flavour the soup with a little cayenne pepper, and serve some <a -href="#eggforcemeat083">egg forcemeat balls</a> in it, about the size of -small marbles. -</p> - -<p id="mulligatawnysoup035"> -<strong>Mulligatawny Soup.</strong>—Take four large onions, cut them -up and fry them brown, with a little butter, in a frying-pan, with a carrot -cut up into small pieces; add to this a quart of <a -href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and boil till the vegetables and -onions are tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve and add a -brimming teaspoonful of Captain White’s Curry Paste and a -dessertspoonful of curry powder, previously mixed smooth in a little cold -water; thicken the soup with a little <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>. -Some persons would consider this soup too hot; if so, less curry powder can -be used or more water added. If you have no curry paste, cut up a sour -apple and add it to the vegetables in the frying-pan. If you have no sour -apples, a few green gooseberries are a very good substitute. <a -href="#boiledrice061">Boiled rice</a> should be served on a separate dish -with this soup, and should not be boiled in the soup at starting. -</p> - -<p id="onionsoup035"> -<strong>Onion Soup.</strong>—Cut up half a dozen onions and throw -them for a few minutes into boiling water. This takes off the rankness. -Drain off the onions, and chop them up and boil them till they are tender -in some milk that has been seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of -savoury herbs. Take a small quantity of celery, carrot and turnip, or -carrot and turnip and a little bruised celery seed, and boil till they are -tender in a very little water; rub through a wire sieve, and add the pulp -to the soup. The soup can be thickened with <a href="#roux022">white -roux</a>, ground rice, or one or two eggs beaten up. The soup must be added -to the eggs gradually or they will curdle. -</p> - -<p id="brownonionsoup036"> -<strong>Onion Soup, Brown.</strong>—Take an onion, carrot, celery, -and turnip, and let them boil till quite tender in some water or <a href="#stock021">stock</a>. In -the meantime slice up half a dozen large onions and fry them brown in a -little butter, in a frying-pan, taking care that the onions are browned and -not burnt black; add the contents of the frying-pan to the vegetables and -stock, and after it has boiled some time, till the onions are tender, rub -the whole through a wire sieve, thicken with a little <a -href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, adding, of course, pepper and salt to -taste. -</p> - -<p id="oxtailsoup036"> -<strong>Ox-tail Soup, Imitation.</strong>—Slice off the outside red -part of two or three large carrots, and cut them up into small dice not -bigger than a quarter of an inch square. Cut up also into similar size a -young turnip, and the white, hard part of a head of celery. Fry these very -gently in a little butter, taking care that the vegetables do not turn -colour. Make some soup exactly in every respect similar to that described -in Imitation Mock Turtle. Throw in these fried vegetables, and let the soup -simmer gently by the side of the fire, in order for it to throw up its -butter, which should be skimmed off. In flavouring the soup, add only half -the quantity of wine or lemon juice that you would use were you making <a -href="#mockturtlesoup035">Mock Turtle</a>. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Palestine Soup.</strong>—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#artichokesoup024">ARTICHOKE SOUP</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="parsnipsoup036"> -<strong>Parsnip Soup.</strong>—Prepare half a dozen parsnips, and boil -them with an onion and half a head of celery in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> till -they are quite tender. Then rub the whole through a wire -sieve, boil it up again, and serve. Sufficient parsnips must be -boiled to make the soup as thick as <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>, so the quantity of -stock must be regulated accordingly. This soup is generally -rather sweet, owing to the parsnips, and an extra quantity of -salt must be added in consequence, as well as pepper. In -Belgium and Germany this sweetness is corrected by the -addition of vinegar. This, of course, is a matter of taste. -</p> - -<p id="pearsoup037"> -<strong>Pear Soup</strong>.—Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. -Put them into a stew-pan with a penny roll cut into thin slices, -half a dozen cloves, and three pints of water. Let them -simmer until they are quite tender, then pass them through -a coarse sieve, and return the purée to the saucepan, with -two ounces of sugar, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, and -half a tumblerful of light wine. Let the soup boil five or -ten minutes, when it will be ready for serving. Send some -sponge-cake to table with this dish. -</p> - -<p id="splitdriedpeasoup037"> -<strong>Pea Soup, from Split Dried Peas</strong>.—Take a pint of split -peas and put them in soak overnight in some cold water, and -throw away those that float, as this shows that there is a hole in -them which would be mildewy. Take two onions, a carrot, -a small head of celery, and boil them with the peas in from -three pints to two quarts of water till they are tender. This -will be from four to five hours. When the peas are old and -stale even longer time should be allowed. Then rub the whole -through a wire sieve, put the soup back into the saucepan, and -stir it while you make it hot or it will burn. In ordinary -cookery, pea soup is invariably made from some kind of greasy -stock, more especially the water in which pickled pork has been -boiled. In the present instance we have no kind of fat to -counteract the natural dryness of the pea-flour. We must -therefore add, before sending to table, two or three ounces -of butter. It will be found best to dissolve the butter in -the saucepan before adding the soup to be warmed up, as it is -then much less likely to stick to the bottom of the saucepan -and burn. Fried or toasted bread should be served with the -soup separately, as well as dried and powdered mint. The -general mistake people make is, they do not have sufficient -mint. -</p> - -<p id="driedgreenpeasoup037"> -<strong>Pea Soup, from Dried Green Peas</strong>.—Proceed as in the -above recipe in every respect, substituting dried green peas for ordinary -yellow split peas. Colour the soup green by adding a large handful of -spinach before it is rubbed through the wire sieve, or add a small quantity -of <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> (vegetable colouring -sold by grocers in bottles); dried mint and fried or toasted bread should -be served with the soup, as with the other. -</p> - -<p id="freshgreenpeasoup038"> -<strong>Pea Soup, Green (Fresh)</strong>.—Take half a peck of young -peas, shell them, and throw the peas into cold water. Put all the shells -into a quart or more of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water. Put in also -a handful of spinach if possible, a few sprigs of parsley, a dozen fresh -mint-leaves and half a dozen small, fresh, green onions. Boil these for an -hour, or rather more, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. You -cannot rub all the shells through; but you will be able to rub a great part -through, that which is left in the sieve being only strings. Now put on the -soup to boil again, and as soon as it boils throw in the peas; as soon as -these are tender—about twenty minutes—the soup is finished and -can be sent to table. If the soup is thin, a little <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>can be added to thicken it; if of a bad -colour, or if you could not get any spinach, add some <a -href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> (vegetable colouring, sold by -all grocers), only take care not to add too much, and make the soup look -like green paint. -</p> - -<p id="potatosoup038"> -<strong>Potato Soup</strong>.—Potato soup is a very good method of -using up the remains of cold boiled potatoes. Slice up a large -onion and fry it, without letting it turn colour, with a little -butter. Add a little water or <a href="#stock021">stock</a> to the frying-pan, and let -the onion boil till it is tender. Boil a quart or more of milk -separately with a couple of bay-leaves; rub the onion with the -cold potatoes through a wire sieve and add it to the milk. You -can moisten the potatoes in the sieve with the milk. When -you have rubbed enough to make the soup thick enough, let it -boil up and add to every quart a saltspoonful of thyme and a -brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley. This soup -should be rather thicker than most thick soups. -</p> - -<p> -When new potatoes first come into season, and especially -when you have new potatoes from your own garden, it will -often be found that mixed with the ordinary ones there are -many potatoes no bigger than a toy marble, and which are too -small to be boiled and sent to table as an ordinary dish of new -potatoes. Reserve all these little dwarf potatoes, wash them, -and throw them for five or ten minutes into boiling water, -drain them off and throw them into the potato soup whole. -Of course they must boil in the soup till they are tender. A -little cream is a great improvement to the soup, and dried mint -can be served with it, but is not absolutely necessary. -</p> - -<p id="pumpkinsoup039"> -<strong>Pumpkin Soup.</strong>—Take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized -pumpkin, pare it, remove the seeds, and cut the pumpkin -into thin slices. Put these into a stew-pan, with as much -water or milk as will cover them, and boil gently until they are -reduced to a pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with it -a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, and -stir it over the fire until it boils. Thin it with some boiling -milk which has been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind, -cinnamon, or orange-flower water. It should be of the consistency -of thick cream. Put toasted bread, cut into the size -of dice, at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Moisten the bread-dice -with a small quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little -while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, and serve -very hot. Or whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen, -and pour the soup in over them at the last moment. The -liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for a minute or two -before it is poured over the eggs. -</p> - -<p id="rhubarbsoup039"> -<strong>Rhubarb Soup.</strong>—This is a sweet soup, and is simply juice -from stewed rhubarb sweetened and flavoured with lemon-peel -and added either to cream or beaten-up yolks of eggs and a -little white wine. It is rarely met with in this country. -</p> - -<p id="ricesoup039"> -<strong>Rice Soup.</strong>—Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and -wash it in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Take an -onion, the white part of a head of celery, and a turnip, and cut them up -and fry them in a little butter. Add a quart of <a -href="#stock021">stock</a>, or water, and boil these vegetables until they -are tender, and then rub them through a wire sieve. Boil the rice in this -soup till it is tender, flavour with pepper and salt, add a little milk -boiled separately, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="ricesoupalaroyale039"> -<strong>Rice Soup à la Royale.</strong>—Take half a pound of -rice and wash it thoroughly in several waters till the water ceases to be -discoloured. Boil this rice in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> that has -been strongly flavoured with onion, carrot and celery, and strained off. -When the rice is tender rub it through a wire sieve, then add some boiling -milk, in which two or three bay-leaves have been boiled, and half a pint of -cream, till the soup is a proper consistency. Serve some <a -href="#eggforcemeat083">egg forcemeat balls</a> with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="sorrelsoup040"> -<strong>Sorrel Soup.</strong>—Take some sorrel and wash it very thoroughly. -Like spinach, it requires a great deal of cleansing. Drain it -off and place the sorrel in a stew-pan, and keep stirring it with -a wooden spoon. When it has dissolved and boiled for two or -three minutes, let it drain on a sieve till the water has run off. -Next cut up a large onion and fry it in a little butter, but do -not brown the onion. Add a tablespoonful of flour to every -two ounces of butter used, also a teaspoonful of sugar, a little -grated nutmeg, also a little pepper and salt; add the sorrel to -this, with a small quantity of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, then rub the -whole through a wire sieve, and serve. In some parts of the -Continent vinegar is added, but it is not adapted to English -taste. -</p> - -<p id="sagosoup040"> -<strong>Sago Soup.</strong>—Take two ounces of sage, and having washed -it very thoroughly, put it on to boil in a quart of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> strongly -flavoured with onion, celery, and carrot, but which has been -strained off. The sage must boil until it becomes quite transparent -and tender. Flavour the soup with a little pepper and -salt, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, about half a teaspoonful of -powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice from a hard -lemon. -</p> - -<p id="seakalesoup040"> -<strong>Sea-kale Soup.</strong>—This makes a very delicious soup, but it is -somewhat rare. Take a bundle of sea-kale, the whiter the -better. Threw it into boiling water, and let it boil for a few -minutes, then take it out and drain it; cut it up into small -pieces and place it in a stew-pan with about two ounces of -butter, add a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg; stir it -up until the butter is thoroughly melted, but do not let it turn -colour in the slightest degree. Add some milk, and let it -simmer very gently for about half an hour. Rub the whole -through a wire sieve, and add a small quantity of cream. Serve -with toasted or fried bread. -</p> - -<p id="scotchbroth040"> -<strong>Scotch Broth.</strong>—Take two or three ounces of pearl barley, -wash it, and threw it into boiling water, and let it boil for five -or ten minutes. Then drain it off and threw away the water. -This is the only way to get pearl barley perfectly clean. Then -put on the barley in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and let it boil for -four hours, till it is tender. Then add to it every kind -of vegetable that is in season, such as onion, celery, carrot, -turnip, peas, French beans, cut up into small pieces, hearts of -lettuces cut up. Flavour with pepper and salt and serve -altogether. If possible add leeks to this soup instead of onion, -and just before serving the soup throw in a brimming dessertspoonful -of chopped blanched parsley to every quart of soup. A -pinch of thyme can also be added. -</p> - -<p id="spinachsoup041"> -<strong>Spinach Soup.</strong>—Wash some young, freshly gathered spinach, -cut it up with a lettuce, and, if possible, a few leaves of -sorrel, and throw them into boiling water. Let them boil -for five minutes, drain them off, and throw them into cold -water in order to keep their colour. Next take them out of -the water and squeeze all the moisture from them; then melt -two ounces of butter in a stew-pan, and add two tablespoonfuls -of flour. When this is thoroughly mixed together, and -begins to frizzle, add the spinach, lettuce, &c., and stir them -round and round in the stew-pan till all is well mixed together. -Then add sufficient water or vegetable <a href="#stock021">stock</a> to moisten the -vegetables (add also a pinch of thyme), and let it boil. -When it has boiled for about twenty minutes add a quart of -milk that has been boiled separately, flavour with pepper and -salt, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="tapiocasoup041"> -<strong>Tapioca Soup.</strong>—Clear tapioca soup is made by -thickening some ordinary clear soup (<em>see</em> <a -href="#clearsoup030">CLEAR SOUP</a>) with tapioca, allowing about two -ounces of tapioca to every quart. The tapioca should be put into the soup -when it is cold, and it is then far less likely to get lumpy. Tapioca can -also be boiled in a little strongly flavoured <a href="#stock021">stock</a> that has not been -coloured, and then add some boiling milk. Tapioca should be allowed to -simmer for an hour and a half. Of course, a little cream is a great -improvement when the soup is made with milk. -</p> - -<p id="tomatosoup041"> -<strong>Tomato Soup.</strong>—This is a very delicate soup, and the -endeavour should be to try and retain the flavour of the -tomato. Slice up an onion, or better still two shallots, and fry -them in a little butter, to which can be added a broken-up, -dried bay-leaf, a saltspoonful of thyme, and a very small -quantity of grated nutmeg, Fry these in a little batter till the -onion begins to turn colour, and then add a dozen ripe tomatoes -from which the pips have been squeezed. Moisten with -a very little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and let them stew till they -are tender, then rub the whole through a wire sieve. The consistency -should be that of <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. Add a little butter to -soften the soup), and flavour with pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="turnipsoup042"> -<strong>Turnip Soup.</strong>—Cut up some young turnips into small -pieces, throw them into boiling water, let them boil for a few -minutes, take them out and strain them, and put them into a -stew-pan with about two ounces of fresh butter; add a little salt -and sugar. Let them stew in the butter (taking great care that -they don’t turn colour) till they become soft, then add sufficient -boiling milk to moisten them, so that when rubbed through a -wire sieve the soup will be of the consistency of <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. -Serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="vegetablemarrowsoup042"> -<strong>Vegetable Marrow Soup.</strong>—Take a large vegetable marrow, -peel it, cut it open, remove all the pips, and place it in a stew-pan -with about two ounces of fresh butter. Add a brimming -teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and -pepper and salt. Keep turning the pieces of vegetable marrow -over in the butter, taking care that they do not at all turn -colour. After frying these pieces gently for five or ten minutes, -add some boiling milk, and let the whole simmer gently till it -can be rubbed through a wire sieve. Care must be taken not -to get this soup too thin, as the vegetable marrow itself contains -a large quantity of water. Season with pepper and salt, and -serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. -</p> - -<p id="vegetablesoup042"> -<strong>Vegetable Soup.</strong>—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#jardinieresoup033">JARDINIÈRE SOUP</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="vermicellisoup042"> -<strong>Vermicelli Soup.</strong>—Take a quarter of a pound of -vermicelli and break it up into small pieces, throw it into boiling water, -and let it boil for five minutes to get rid of the dirt and floury taste, -then throw it immediately into about a quart of <a -href="#clearsoup030">clear soup</a>. The vermicelli must be taken from the -boiling water and thrown into the boiling soup at once. If you were to boil -the vermicelli, strain it off, and put it by to add to the soup, you would -find it would stick together in one lump and be spoilt. -</p> - -<p id="whitevermicellisoup042"> -<strong>Vermicelli Soup, White.</strong>—The vermicelli must be thrown -into white soup instead of clear soup. (<em>See</em> <a -href="#whitesoup043">WHITE SOUP</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="whitesoup043"> -<strong>White Soup.</strong>—Just as in ordinary white soup the -secret of success is to have some strongly reduced <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, so in vegetarian -white soup it is essential that we should have a small quantity of liquid -strongly impregnated with the flavour of vegetables. For this purpose, -place an onion, the white part of a head of celery, and a slice of turnip -in a stew-pan with a little butter, and fry them till they are tender -without becoming brown. Now add sufficient water to enable you to boil -them, and let the water boil away till very little is left. Now rub this -through a wire sieve and add it to a quart of milk in which a couple of -bay-leaves have been boiled. Thicken the soup with a little <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, add a suspicion of nutmeg, and also, if -possible, a little cream. Flavour with pepper and salt. Serve fried or -toasted bread with the soup. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter2">CHAPTER II.</h2> - - - - - <h3 id="sauces044">SAUCES.</h3> - - - - <p id="allemandesauce044"> - <strong>Sauce Allemande.</strong>—Take a pint of butter - sauce—(<em>see</em> <a href="#buttersauce046">BUTTER - SAUCE</a>)—and add to it four yolks of eggs. In order to do this - you must beat up the yolks separately in a basin and add the hot butter - sauce gradually, otherwise the yolks of eggs will curdle and the sauce - will be spoilt. In fact, it must be treated exactly like custard, and - in warming up the sauce it is often a good plan, if you have no - <em>bain-marie</em>, to put the sauce in a jug and place the jug in a - saucepan of boiling water. The sauce should be flavoured with a little - essence of mushroom if possible. Essence of mushroom can be made from - the trimmings of mushrooms, but mushroom ketchup must not be used on - account of the colour. Essence of mushroom can be made by placing the - trimmings of mushrooms in a saucepan, stewing them gently, and - extracting the flavour. The large black mushrooms, however, are not - suited. In addition to this essence of mushroom, a little lemon - juice—allowing the juice of half a lemon to every pint, should be - added to the sauce, as well as a slight suspicion of nutmeg, a pint of - sauce requiring about a dozen grates of a nutmeg. A little cream is a - great improvement to this sauce, but is not absolutely necessary. The - sauce should be perfectly smooth. Should it therefore contain any - lumps, which is not unfrequently the case in <a - href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, pass the sauce through a sieve - with a wooden spoon and then put it by in a <em>bain-marie</em>, or - warm it up in a jug as directed. - </p> - -<p id="almondsauce044"> -<strong>Almond Sauce.</strong>—This is suitable for puddings. The -simplest way of making it is to make, say half a pint of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter -sauce</a>, or, cheaper, thicken half a pint of milk with a little -corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, and then add a few -drops of essence of almonds. About a dozen drops will be -sufficient if the essence is strong, but essence of almonds varies -greatly in strength. The sauce can be coloured pink with a -few drops of cochineal. -</p> - -<p id="almondsauceclear045"> -<strong>Almond Sauce (clear).</strong>—Thicken half a pint of water with -a little corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, add a dozen -drops of essence of almonds and a few drops of cochineal to -colour it pink. The sauce is very suitable to pour over custard -puddings made in a basin or cup and turned out on to a dish. -It is also very cheap. -</p> - -<p id="applesauce045"> -<strong>Apple Sauce.</strong>—Peel say a dozen apples; cut them into -quarters; and be very careful in removing all the core, as many -a child is choked through carelessness in this respect. Stew -the apples in a little water till they become a pulp, placing -with them half a dozen cloves and half a dozen strips of the -yellow part only of the outside of the rind of a <em>fresh</em> lemon -of the size and thickness of the thumb-nail; sweeten with -brown sugar, that known as Porto Rico being the most -economical. Add a small piece of butter before serving. -</p> - -<p id="arrowrootsauce045"> -<strong>Arrowroot Sauce.</strong>—Thicken half a pint of water with -about a dessertspoonful of arrowroot and sweeten it with white -sugar. The sauce can be flavoured by rubbing a few lumps of -sugar on the outside of a lemon, or with a few drops of essence of -vanilla, or with the addition of a little sherry or spirit, the best -spirit being rum. This sauce can, of course, be coloured pink -with cochineal. -</p> - -<p id="artichokesauce045"> -<strong>Artichoke Sauce.</strong>—Proceed exactly as if you were -making <a href="#artichokesoup024">artichoke soup</a>, only make the -purée thicker by using less liquid. A simple artichoke sauce can be -made by boiling down a few Jerusalem artichokes to a pulp, rubbing them -through a wire sieve, and flavouring with pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="asparagussauce045"> -<strong>Asparagus Sauce.</strong>—Boil a bundle of asparagus and rub -all the green, tender part through a wire sieve, till it is a thick -pulp, flavour with a little pepper and salt, add a small piece of -butter, and a little <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> (vegetable colouring sold -in bottles) in order to give it a good colour. -</p> - -<p id="breadsauce045"> -<strong>Bread Sauce.</strong>—Take some dry crumb of bread, and rub -through a wire sieve. The simplest plan is to turn the -wire sieve upside down on a large sheet of paper. The bread -must be stale, and stale pieces can be put by for this purpose. -Next take, say, a pint of milk, and let it boil; then -throw in the bread-crumbs and let them <em>boil</em> in the milk. -This is the secret of good bread sauce. Add a dozen peppercorns, -and place a whole onion in the saucepan containing the -bread and milk, and place the saucepan beside the fire in order -to allow the bread-crumbs to swell. It will be found that -though at starting the bread sauce was quite thin and milky, -yet after a time it becomes thick. Take out the onion, add a -little piece of butter, stir it up, and serve. A little cream is a -great improvement, but is not absolutely necessary. This -sauce, though very simple, requires care: Many persons will -probably recollect having met with bread sauce which in -appearance resembled a poultice too much to be agreeable -either to the palate or the eye. -</p> - -<p id="buttersauce046"> -<strong>Butter Sauce.</strong>—This is the most important of all the -sauces with which we have to deal. The great mistake made by the vast -majority of women cooks is that they will use milk. They thicken a pint of -milk with a little butter and flour, and then call it melted butter, and, -as a rule, send to table enough for twenty persons when only two or three -are dining. As butter sauce will be served with the majority of vegetables, -we would call the attention of vegetarians to the fact that, as a rule, -ordinary cookery-books take for granted that vegetables will be served with -the meat. When therefore vegetables are served separately, and are intended -to be eaten with bread as a course by themselves, some alteration must be -made in the method of serving them. Again, vegetarians should bear in mind -that, except in cases where poverty necessitates rigid economy, a certain -amount of butter may be considered almost a necessity, should the meal be -wished to be both wholesome and nourishing. Francatelli, who was -<em>chef-de-cuisine</em> to the Earl of Chesterfield, and was also chief -cook to the Queen and <em>chef</em> at the Reform Club, and afterwards -manager of the Freemasons’ Tavern, in writing on this subject -observes:—“Butter sauce, or, as it is more absurdly called, -melted butter, is the foundation of the whole of the following sauces, and -requires very great care in its preparation. Though simple, it is -nevertheless a very useful and agreeable sauce when properly made. So far -from this being usually the case, it is too generally left to assistants to -prepare, as an insignificant matter; the result is therefore seldom -satisfactory. When a large quantity of butter sauce is required, put four -ounces of fresh butter into a middle-sized stew-pan, with some grated -nutmeg and minionette pepper; to these add four ounces of sifted flour, -knead the whole well together, and moisten with a pint of cold spring -water; stir the sauce on the fire till it boils, and after having kept it -gently boiling for twenty minutes (observing that it be not thicker than -the consistency of common <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>), -proceed to mix in one pound and a half of sweet fresh butter, taking care -to stir the sauce quickly the whole time of the operation. Should it appear -to turn oily, add now and then a spoonful of cold spring water; finish with -the juice of half a lemon, and salt to palate; then pass the sauce through -a tammy into a large <em>bain-marie</em> for use.” -</p> - -<p> -We have quoted the recipe of the late M. Francatelli in -full, as we believe it is necessary to refer to some very great -authority in order to knock out the prejudice from the minds -of many who think that they not only can themselves cook, -but teach others, but who are bound in the chains of prejudice -and tradition which, too often, in the most simple recipes, -lead them to follow in the footsteps of their grandmothers. -</p> - -<p> -Real butter sauce can be made as follows, on a small scale:—Take -a claret-glass of water, and about a small teaspoonful of -flour mixed with rather more than the same quantity of butter, -and mix this in the water over the fire till it is of the consistency -of very thin gruel. If it is thicker than this, add a -little more water. Now take any quantity of butter, and -gradually dissolve as much as you can in this thin gruel, -adding say half an ounce at a time, till the sauce becomes -a rich oily compound. After a time, if you add too much -butter, the sauce will curdle and turn oily, as described by -Francatelli. -</p> - -<p> -Of course, in everyday life it is not necessary to have the -butter sauce so rich, still it is simply ridiculous to thicken a -pint of milk, or a pint of water, with a little butter and flour, -and then call it butter sauce or melted butter. Suppose we -have a large white cabbage, like those met with in the West -of England, and we are going to make a meal off it in conjunction -with plenty of bread. Suppose the cabbage is sufficiently -large for six persons, surely half a pound of butter is not an -excessive quantity to use in making butter sauce for the -purpose. Yet prejudice is such that if we use half a pound of -butter for the butter sauce, housekeepers consider it extravagant. -On the other hand, if the butter were placed on the -table, and the six persons helped themselves, and ate bread and -butter with the cabbage and finished the half-pound, it would -not be considered extravagant. Of course, this is simply -prejudice. -</p> - -<p> -A simple way of making melted butter is as follows:—Take half a pint -of cold water, put it in a saucepan, and add sufficient <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, or butter and flour mixed, till it is of -the consistency of thin gruel. Now gradually dissolve in this, adding a -little piece at a time, as much butter as you can afford; add a suspicion -of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and a few drops of lemon-juice from a -fresh lemon, if you have one in use. -</p> - -<p id="oiledbutter048"> -<strong>Butter, Melted, or Oiled Butter.</strong>—Melted butter, properly -speaking, is rarely met with in this country, but is a common -everyday sauce on the Continent. It is simply what it says. -A piece of butter is placed in a little sauce-boat and placed in -the oven till the butter runs to oil, and then sent to table with -all kinds of fish with which in our present work we have -nothing to do; but it is also sent to table with all kinds of -vegetables, such as French artichokes, &c.; sometimes a spoonful -of French capers is added to the oiled butter. -</p> - -<p id="blackbutter048"> -<strong>Butter, Black, or Beurre Noir.</strong>—Take two ounces of -butter, and dissolve it in a frying-pan, and let it frizzle till -the butter turns a brown colour; then add a tablespoonful -of French vinegar, a teaspoonful of chopped capers, a teaspoonful -of Harvey’s sauce, and a teaspoonful of mushroom -ketchup. Let it remain on the fire till the acidity of the -vinegar is removed by evaporation. This is a very delicious -sauce, and can be served with Jerusalem artichokes boiled -whole, <a href="#friedeggs080">fried eggs</a>, &c. -</p> - -<p id="capersauce049"> -<strong>Caper Sauce</strong>.—Make some <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, and to every half-pint of sauce -add a dessertspoonful of chopped French capers. If the sauce is liked -sharp, add some of the vinegar from the bottle of capers. -</p> - -<p id="carrotsauce049"> -<strong>Carrot Sauce</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in <a -href="#carrotsoup027">carrot soup</a>, using less liquid. -</p> - -<p id="cauliflowersauce049"> -<strong>Cauliflower Sauce</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in <a -href="#cauliflowersoup028">cauliflower soup</a>, using less liquid. -</p> - -<p id="celerysauce049"> -<strong>Celery Sauce</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in <a -href="#celerysoup029">celery soup</a>, only using less liquid. The thicker -this sauce is the better. -</p> - -<p id="cherrysauce049"> -<strong>Cherry Sauce</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pound of dried -cherries, and put them into a small stew-pan, with a dessertspoonful of <a -href="#blackcurrantjelly160">black currant jelly</a>, a small stick of -cinnamon, with half a dozen cloves, and add rather less than half a pint of -water, and let the whole simmer gently for about ten minutes, when you must -take out the spices and send the rest to table. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—If wine is not objected to in cooking, it is a very -good plan to add claret instead of water. -</p> - -<p id="chestnutsauce049"> -<strong>Chestnut Sauce</strong>.—Proceed as in making <a -href="#chestnutsoup030">chestnut soup</a>, using as little liquid as -possible, so as to make the sauce thick. -</p> - -<p id="cinnamonsauce049"> -<strong>Cinnamon Sauce</strong>.—The simplest way of making cinnamon -sauce is to sweeten some <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> with -some white sugar, and then add a few drops of essence of cinnamon. The -sauce can be coloured pink with a little cochineal. A little wine is an -improvement. The sauce can also be made by breaking up and boiling a stick -of cinnamon in some water, and then using the water to make some butter -sauce. -</p> - -<p id="cocoanutsauce049"> -<strong>Cocoanut Sauce</strong>.—Grate the white, part of a cocoanut very -finely, and boil it till tender in a very small quantity of water; -add about an equal quantity of white sugar as there was cocoa-nut; -mix in either the yolk of an egg or a tablespoonful of -cream. A little lemon juice is an improvement. -</p> - -<p id="cucumbersauce049"> -<strong>Cucumber Sauce</strong>.—Take two or three small cucumbers, -peel them, slice them, and place them in a dish with a little salt, which -has the effect of extracting the water. Now drain the pieces off and strain -then in a cloth, to extract as much moisture as possible. Put then in a -frying-pan with a little butter; fry them very gently, till they begin to -turn colour, then nib them through a wire sieve; moisten the pulp with a -little <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>; add a little pepper, -salt, and grated nutmeg and vinegar to taste. -</p> - -<p id="redcurrantsauce050"> -<strong>Currant Sauce (Red)</strong>.—Put a couple of tablespoonfuls -of <a href="#redcurrantjelly161">red currant jelly</a>into a small -stew-pan, with half a dozen cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, and the rind -of an orange. Moisten with a little water, or still better, a little -claret, strain it off, and add the juice of the orange. -</p> - -<p id="blackcurrantsauce050"> -<strong>Currant Sauce (Black)</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in the above -recipe, substituting <a href="#blackcurrantjelly160">black currant jelly</a> for red. -</p> - -<p id="currysauce050"> -<strong>Curry Sauce</strong>.—Take six large onions, peel them, cut -them up into small pieces, and fry them in a frying-pan in about two ounces -of butter. As soon as the onions begin to change colour, take a small -carrot and cut it up into little piece; and a sour apple. When the onions, -etc., are fried a nice brown, add about a pint of vegetable <a -href="#stock021">stock</a> or water and let the whole simmer till the -vegetables are quite tender, then add a tea-spoonful of Captain -White’s curry paste and a dessertspoonful of curry powder; now rub -the whole through a wire sieve, and take care that all the vegetables go -through. It is rather troublesome, but will repay you, as good curry sauce -cannot be made without. The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick owing -to the vegetables being rubbed through the wire sieve. Should therefore the -onions be small, less water or stock had better be added. Curry sauce could -be thickened with a little <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, but it takes -away from the flavour of the curry. A few bay-leaves may be added to the -sauce and served up whole in whatever is curried. For instance, if we have -a dish of <a href="#curriedrice063">curried rice</a>, half a dozen or more -bay-leaves could be added to the sauce and served up with the rice. -</p> - -<p> -There are many varieties of curry. In India fresh mangoes -take the part of our sour apples. Some persons add -grated cocoanut to curry, and it is well worth a trial, although -on the P. and O. boats the Indian curry-cook mixes the curry -fresh every day and uses cocoanut oil for the purpose. In some -parts of India it is customary to serve up whole chillies in the -curry, but this would be better adapted to a stomach suffering -from the effects of brandy-pawnee than to the simple taste of -the vegetarian. -</p> - -<p id="dutchsauce051"> -<strong>Dutch Sauce.</strong>—This is very similar to <a -href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande Sauce</a>. Take half a pint of good <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, make it thoroughly hot, add two -yolks of eggs, taking care that they do not curdle, a little pepper and -salt, a suspicion of nutmeg, and about a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. -Some persons instead of using tarragon vinegar add a little lemon juice, -say the half of a fresh lemon to this quantity, and half a dozen fresh -tarragon leaves, blanched—that is, dipped for a few seconds in -boiling water—and then chopped very fine. The tarragon vinegar is -much the simplest, as it is very difficult to get fresh tarragon leaves -unless one has a good garden or lives near Covent Garden Market. -</p> - -<p id="greendutchsauce051"> -<strong>Dutch Sauce (Green).</strong>—Proceed exactly as above and colour -the sauce a bright green with a little <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> (vegetable -colouring, sold in bottles by all grocers). -</p> - -<p id="eggsauce051"> -<strong>Egg Sauce.</strong>—Take half a dozen eggs, put them in a -saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them. Put them on the fire and -let them boil for ten minutes after the water boils. Take them out and put -them into cold water and let them stand for ten minutes, when the shells -can be removed; then cut up the six <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> into little pieces, add -sufficient <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> to moisten them, make -the whole hot, and serve. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—Inexperienced cooks often think that hard-boiled eggs -are bad when they are not, owing to their often having a tinge of -green colour round the outside of the yolk and to their emitting -a peculiar smell when the shells are first removed while hot -All eggs contain a small quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen. -</p> - -<p id="fennelsauce051"> -<strong>Fennel Sauce.</strong>—Blanch and chop up sufficient fennel -to colour half a pint of <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> a -bright green, add a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="germansweetsauce051"> -<strong>German Sweet Sauce.</strong>—Take a quarter of a pound of dried -cherries, a small saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a -few strips of lemon peel, and put them in a small saucepan -with about a quarter of a pint of water, or still better, claret, -if wine is allowed, and let them simmer on the fire gently -for about half an hour; then rub the cherries through a wire -sieve with the liquor—(of course, the lemon peel and cloves -will not rub through)—and add this to a quarter of a pound -of <a href="#stewedprunes173">stewed prunes</a>. This is a very popular sauce abroad. -</p> - -<p id="gingersauce052"> -<strong>Ginger Sauce</strong>.—The simplest way of making ginger -sauce is to sweeten half a pint of <a href="#buttersauce046">butter -sauce</a> and then add a few drops of essence of ginger. A richer ginger -sauce can be made by taking two or three tablespoonfuls of preserved ginger -and two or three tablespoonfuls of the syrup in which they are preserved, -rubbing this through a wire sieve, adding about an equal quantity of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, making the whole hot in a -saucepan. -</p> - -<p id="gooseberrysauce052"> -<strong>Gooseberry Sauce</strong>.—Pick and then stew some green gooseberries, -just moistening the stewpan with a little water to -prevent them burning. Rub the whole through a hair sieve -in order to avoid having any pips in the sauce. Sweeten with -a little Demerara sugar, as Porto Rico would be too dark in -colour. Colour the sauce a bright green with a little spinach -extract. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—It is a mistake to add cream to gooseberry sauce, -which is distinct altogether from gooseberry fool. In Germany, -vinegar is added to this sauce and it is served with meat. -</p> - -<p id="horseradishsauce052"> -<strong>Horse-radish Sauce</strong>.—Horse-radish sauce is made, -properly speaking, by mixing grated horse-radish with cream, vinegar, -sugar, made mustard, and a little pepper and salt. A very simple method of -making this sauce is to substitute tinned Swiss milk for the cream and -sugar. It is equally nice, more economical, and possesses this great -advantage: a few tins of Swiss milk can always be kept in the store -cupboard, whereas there is considerable difficulty, especially in all large -towns, in obtaining cream without giving twenty-four hours’ notice, -and the result even then is not always satisfactory. Horse-radish sauce is -very delicious, and its thickness should be entirely dependent upon the -amount of grated horse-radish. Sticks of horse-radish vary so very much in -size that we will say, grate sufficient to fill a teacup, throw this into a -sauce tureen, mix a dessertspoonful of Swiss milk with a tablespoonful of -vinegar and about two tablespoonfuls of milk and a teaspoonful of made -mustard, add this to the horse-radish, and, if necessary, sufficient milk -to make the whole of the consistency of <a href="#breadsauce045">bread -sauce</a>. As the sauce is very hot, as a rule it is best not to add any -pepper, which can be easily added afterwards by those who like it. -</p> - -<p id="indianpicklesauce053"> -<strong>Indian Pickle Sauce</strong>.—Chop up two or three -tablespoonfuls of Indian pickles, place them in a frying-pan with a quarter -of a pint of water, and if the pickles are sour as well as hot, let them -simmer some little time so as to get rid of the vinegar by evaporation. -Then thicken the whole with some <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a> till the -sauce is as thick as <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>. The -vinegar should be got rid of as much as possible. This is a very appetising -dish with <a href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a> and Parmesan cheese. -</p> - -<p id="italiansauce053"> -<strong>Italian Sauce</strong>.—This is an old-fashioned recipe taken -from a book written in French, and published more than fifty -years ago. Put into a saucepan a little parsley, a shallot, some -mushrooms and truffles, chopped very finely, with a piece of -butter about the size of a walnut. Let all boil gently for half -an hour, add a spoonful of oil, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="maitredhotelsauce053"> -<strong>Maître d’Hôtel Sauce</strong>.—Maître -d’Hôtel sauce is simply a lump of butter mixed with some -chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and lemon juice. -</p> - -<p> -Hot sauce is often called Maître d’Hôtel when chopped -blanched parsley and lemon juice is added to a little white -sauce. -</p> - -<p id="mangochutneysauce053"> -<strong>Mango Chutney Sauce</strong>.—Take a couple of tablespoonfuls -of Mango Chutney, moisten it with two or three tablespoonfuls of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, rub the whole through a wire -sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Or the chutney can be simply chopped -up fine and added to the <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> without -rubbing through the wire sieve. -</p> - -<p id="mayonnaisesauce053"> -<strong>Mayonnaise Sauce</strong>.—This is the most delicious of all cold -sauces. It is composed entirely of raw yolk of egg and oil, -flavoured with a dash of vinegar. When made properly it -should be of the consistency of butter in summer time. Many -women cooks labour under the delusion that it requires the -addition of cream. Mayonnaise sauce is made as follows:— -Break an egg and separate the yolk from the white, and place -the yolk at the bottom of a large basin. Next take a bottle of -oil, which must be cool but bright; if the oil is cloudy, as it -often is in cold weather, you cannot make the sauce. Nor can -you if the oil has been kept in a warm place. Now proceed to -let the oil drop, drop by drop, on the yolk of egg, and with a -silver fork, or still better, a wooden one, beat the yolk of egg and -oil quickly together. Continue to drop the oil, taking care that -only a few drops drop at a time, especially at starting, and continue -to beat the mixture lightly and quickly. Gradually the -yolk of egg and oil will begin to get thick, first of all like -custard. When this is the case a little more oil may be added -at a time, but never more than a teaspoonful. As more oil is -added, and the beating continues, the sauce gets thicker and -thicker, till it is nearly as thick as butter in summer time. -When it arrives at this stage no more oil should be added. A -little tarragon vinegar may be added at the finish, or a little -lemon juice. This makes the sauce whiter in colour. One yolk -of egg will take a teacupful of oil. It is best to add pepper -and salt when the salad is mixed. Mayonnaise sauce is by far -the best sauce for lettuce salad. It will keep a day, but should -be kept in a cool place, and the basin should be covered over -with a moist cloth. -</p> - -<p id="greenmayonnaisesauce054"> -<strong>Mayonnaise Sauce, Green</strong>.—Make some <a -href="#mayonnaisesauce053">mayonnaise sauce</a> -as above, and colour it with some spinach colouring (vegetable -colouring, sold in bottles by all grocers). -</p> - -<p id="mintsauce054"> -<strong>Mint Sauce</strong>.—Take plenty of fresh mint leaves, as the -secret of good mint sauce is to have plenty of mint. Chop up -sufficient mint to fill a teacup, put this at the bottom of a sauce -tureen, pour sufficient boiling water on the mint to thoroughly -moisten it, and add a tablespoonful of brown sugar, which dissolves -best when the water is hot. Press the mint with a tablespoon -to extract the flavour, let it stand till it is quite cold, -and then add three or four tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar, stir -it up, and the sauce is ready. The quantity of vinegar added -is purely a matter of taste, but a teaspoonful of chopped mint -floating in half a pint of vinegar is no more mint sauce than -dipping a mutton chop in a quart of boiling water would -be soup in ordinary cookery. -</p> - -<p id="mushroomsauce054"> -<strong>Mushroom Sauce, White</strong>.—Mushroom sauce can be made -from fresh mushrooms or tinned mushrooms. When made from fresh they must be -small button mushrooms, and not those that are black underneath. They must -be peeled, cut small, and have a little lemon juice squeezed over them to -prevent them turning colour, or they had still better be thrown into lemon -juice and water. They must now be fried in a frying-pan with a small -quantity of butter till they are tender, and then added to a little -thickened milk, or still better, cream. When made from tinned mushrooms, -simply chop up the mushrooms, reserving the liquor, then add a little cream -and thicken with a little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a>. A little -pepper and salt should be added in both cases. Instead of using either milk -or cream, you can use a small quantity of <a -href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a>. -</p> - -<p id="brownmushroomsauce055"> -<strong>Mushroom Sauce, Brown</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above with -regard to the mushrooms, both fresh and tinned, only instead of adding -milk, cream, or <a href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande sauce</a>, add a -little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and then thicken the sauce with a little <a -href="#roux022">brown roux</a>. -</p> - -<p id="mushroompureesauce055"> -<strong>Mushroom Sauce, Purée</strong>.—Mushroom sauce, both white -and brown, is sometimes served as a purée. It is simply -either of the above sauces rubbed through a wire sieve. -</p> - -<p id="mustardsauce055"> -<strong>Mustard Sauce</strong>.—Make, say, half a pint of good <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, add to this a tablespoonful of -French mustard and a tablespoonful of made English mustard. Stir this into -the sauce, make it hot, and serve. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—French mustard is sold ready-made in jars, and is -flavoured with tarragon, capers, ravigotte, &c. -</p> - -<p id="onionsauce055"> -<strong>Onion Sauce</strong>.—Take half a dozen large onions, peel -them and boil them in a little salted water till they are tender. Then take -them out and chop them up fine, and put them in a stew-pan with a little -milk. Thicken the sauce with a little butter and flour, or <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, and season with pepper and salt. A very -nice mild onion sauce is made by using Spanish onions. -</p> - -<p id="brownonionsauce055"> -<strong>Onion Sauce, Brown</strong>.—Slice up half a dozen good-sized -onions; put them in a frying-pan and fry them in a little butter till they -begin to get brown, but be careful not to burn them, and should there be a -few black pieces in the frying-pan, remove them; now chop up the onions, -not too finely, and put them in a saucepan with a very little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or -water, let them simmer till they are tender, and then thicken the sauce -with a little <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, and flavour with pepper -and salt. -</p> - -<p id="orangecreamsauce056"> -<strong>Orange Cream Sauce for Puddings</strong>.—Take a large ripe -orange and rub a dozen lumps of sugar on the outside of the rind and -dissolve these in a small quantity of <a href="#buttersauce046">butter -sauce</a>, and add the juice of the orange, strained. Now add a little -cream, or half a pint of milk that has been boiled separately, in which -case the sauce will want thickening with a little <a href="#roux022">white -roux</a>. Rubbing the sugar on the outside of the rind of the orange gives -a very strong orange flavour indeed—far more than the juice of almost -any number of oranges would produce, so care must be taken not to overdo -it. This is what French cooks call zest of orange. -</p> - -<p id="parsleysauce056"> -<strong>Parsley Sauce</strong>.—Blanch and chop up sufficient parsley -to make a brimming tablespoonful when chopped. Add this to half a pint of -<a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, with a little pepper, salt, and -lemon juice. It is very important to blanch the parsley, <em>i.e.</em>, throw it -into a little boiling water before chopping. -</p> - -<p id="pineapplesauce056"> -<strong>Pine-apple Sauce</strong>.—Take a pine-apple, peel it, cut it -up into little pieces on a dish, taking care not to lose any of -the juice, place it in a saucepan with a very little water, just -sufficient to cover the pine-apple; let it simmer gently until it -is tender, and then add sufficient white sugar to make the -liquid almost a syrup; a teaspoonful of corn-flour, made -smooth in a little cold water, can be added; but the sauce -should be of the consistency of syrup, and the corn-flour does -away with the difficulty of making it too sickly. The juice of -half a lemon may be added, and is, perhaps, an improvement. -</p> - -<p id="plumsauce056"> -<strong>Plum Sauce</strong>.—When made from ripe plums, take, say, a -pound, and place them in a stew-pan with a very little water -and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Take out the stones and -crack them. Throw the kernels into boiling water so that you -can rub off the skin, and add them to the sauce after you have -rubbed the stewed plums through a wire sieve. -</p> - -<p> -To make plum sauce from dried French plums proceed exactly as in making -Prune Sauce. (<em>See</em> <a href="#prunesauce057">PRUNE SAUCE</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="poivradesauce057"> -<strong>Poivrade Sauce</strong>.—Take an onion, a very small head of -celery, and a carrot, and cut them into little pieces, and put them into a -frying-pan with a little butter, a saltspoonful of thyme, one or two dried -bay-leaves, and about a quarter of a grated nutmeg and two or three sprigs -of parsley. Fry these till they turn a light-brown colour, then add a -little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Let this boil in -the frying-pan for about half an hour, till the liquid is reduced in -quantity. Thicken it with a little <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, and -rub it through a wire sieve, make it hot, and serve. If wine is allowed, -the addition of a little sherry is a great improvement to this sauce. -</p> - -<p id="prunesauce057"> -<strong>Prune Sauce</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pound of prunes, put -them in a stew-pan with just sufficient water to cover them, and -let them stew. Put in one or two strips of lemon-peel to stew with -them, add a teaspoonful of brown sugar, about sufficient -powdered cinnamon to cover a shilling, and the juice of half a -lemon. When the prunes are quite tender take out the strip -of lemon-peel and stones, rub the whole through a wire sieve, -and serve. -</p> - -<p id="radishsauce057"> -<strong>Radish Sauce</strong>.—Take a few bunches of radishes and grate -them, and mix this grated radish with a little oil, vinegar, -pepper, and salt. You can colour the sauce red by adding a -little beetroot, and make the sauce hot by adding a little grated -horse- radish. This cold sauce is exceedingly nice with cheese. -These <em>grated</em> radishes are more digestible than radishes served -whole. -</p> - -<p id="raspberrysauce057"> -<strong>Raspberry Sauce</strong>.—This sauce is simply stewed -raspberries rubbed through a wire sieve and sweetened. Some red-currant -juice should be added to give it a colour. It is very nice made hot and -then added to one or two beaten-up eggs and poured over any plain puddings, -such as <a href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a>, &c. -</p> - -<p id="ratafiasauce057"> -<strong>Ratafia Sauce</strong>.—Add a few drops of essence of ratafia -to some sweetened <a href="#arrowrootsauce045">arrowroot</a> or to some <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. The sauce can be coloured pink -with a few drops of cochineal. -</p> - -<p id="ravigottesauce057"> -<strong>Ravigotte Sauce</strong>.—Put a tablespoonful each of -Harvey’s sauce, tarragon vinegar, and chilli vinegar into a small -saucepan, and let it boil till it is reduced to almost one-half in -quantity, in order to get rid of the acidity. Now add about half a pint of -<a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, and throw in a tablespoonful of -chopped blanched parsley. -</p> - -<p id="robertsauce058"> -<strong>Robert Sauce</strong>.—Take a couple of onions, cut them up -into small pieces, and fry them with about an ounce of butter in a -frying-pan. Drain off the butter and add a couple of tablespoonfuls of -vinegar to the frying-pan, and let it simmer for ten minutes or a quarter -of an hour so as to get rid of the acidity of the vinegar. Now add a very -little <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, stir it tip, and thicken the sauce with a little <a -href="#roux022">brown roux</a>. Add a dessertspoonful of fresh mustard and -a little pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="soubisesauce058"> -<strong>Soubise Sauce</strong>.—Sauce Soubise is simply white onion sauce, -rubbed through a wire sieve, and a little cream added. It is -more delicate than ordinary onion sauce, and is often served in -France with roast pheasant. It owes its name to a famous -French general. -</p> - -<p id="sorrelsauce058"> -<strong>Sorrel Sauce</strong>.—Put about a quart of fresh green sorrel -leaves (after being thoroughly washed) into an enamelled saucepan, -with a little fresh butter, and let the sorrel stew till it is -tender. Rub this through a wire sieve, add a little powdered -sugar and a little lemon juice; a little cream may be added, -but is not absolutely essential. -</p> - -<p id="sweetsauce058"> -<strong>Sweet Sauce</strong>.—Take half a pint of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, and -sweeten it with a little sugar. It can be flavoured by rubbing -a little sugar on the outside of a lemon, or with vanilla, essence -of almonds, or any kind of sweet essence. A little wine, -brandy, or, still better, rum, is a great improvement. Some -persons add cream. -</p> - -<p id="tarragonsauce058"> -<strong>Tarragon Sauce</strong>.—Blanch a dozen tarragon leaves, chop -them up, and stew them in any kind of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> thickened with -<a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>. -</p> - -<p id="tartarsauce058"> -<strong>Tartar Sauce</strong>.—Take two or three tablespoonfuls of <a -href="#mayonnaisesauce053">mayonnaise -sauce</a>, and add to this a brimming teaspoonful of chopped -blanched parsley, as well as a piece of onion or shallot about -as big as the top of the thumb down to the first joint, chopped -very fine, and a brimming teaspoonful of French mustard. -Mix the whole well together. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—A teaspoonful of anchovy sauce would be a great -improvement were anchovy sauce allowed in vegetarian -cookery. -</p> - -<p id="tomatosauce059"> -<strong>Tomato Sauce</strong>.—The great secret of tomato sauce is to -taste nothing but the tomato. Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, -cut off the stalks, and squeeze out the pips, and put them in a -stew-pan with a little butter, and let them stew till they are -tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. This, -in our opinion, is the best tomato sauce that can be made, the -only seasoning being a little pepper and salt. This wholesome -and delicious sauce can, however, be spoilt in a variety of -ways—by the addition of mace, cloves, shallots, onions, thyme, -&c. It can also be made very unwholesome by the addition of -a quantity of vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="trufflesauce059"> -<strong>Truffle Sauce</strong>.—This sauce is very expensive if made -from whole fresh truffles, but can be made more cheaply if you can obtain -some truffle chips or parings. These must be stewed in a little <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, -thickened with <a href="#roux022">brown roux</a>, and then rubbed through a -wire sieve, a little sherry being a great improvement if wine is allowed. -</p> - -<p id="vanillasauce059"> -<strong>Vanilla Sauce</strong>.—Add some essence of vanilla to some -sweetened <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. -</p> - -<p id="whitesauce059"> -<strong>White Sauce</strong>.—White sauce is sometimes required for -vegetables and sometimes for puddings. In the former case some -good-flavoured, uncoloured <a href="#stock021">stock</a> must be thickened with <a -href="#roux022">white roux</a>, and then have sufficient cream added to it -to make the sauce a pure white. -</p> - -<p> -When white sauce is wanted for puddings, sufficient butter -sauce must be sweetened, and very slightly flavoured with nutmeg -or almond, and then an equal quantity of cream added to -it to make it a pure white. White sauce should not have with -it any strong predominant flavour. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter3">CHAPTER III.</h2> - - <h3>SAVOURY RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL, &c.</h3> - - <h4 id="rice060">RICE.</h4> - - <p class="first"> - Probably all persons will admit that rice is a too much - neglected form of food in England. When we remember how - small a quantity of rice weekly is found sufficient to keep - alive millions and millions of our fellow-creatures in the East, - it seems to be a matter of regret that rice as an article of food - is not more used by the thousands and thousands of our fellow - creatures in the East—not in the ordinary acceptation of the - term, but East of Temple Bar. Rice is cheap, nourishing, - easily cooked, and equally easily digested, yet that monster, - custom, seems to step in and prevent the bulk of the poor - availing themselves of this light and nourishing food solely for - the reason that, as their grandfathers and grandmothers did - not eat rice before them, they do not see any reason why they - should, like the Irishman who objected to have his feet washed - on the same ground. Of the different kinds of rice Carolina is - the best, the largest, and the most expensive. Patna rice is - almost as good; the grains are long, small, and white, and it - is the best rice for curry. Madras rice is the cheapest. - </p> - - <p> - Rice, pure and simple, is the food most suited for hot climates and - where a natural indolence of disposition results in one’s - day’s work of an ordinary Englishman being divided among twenty - people. As we move towards more temperate zones it will be found the - universal custom to qualify it by mixing it with some other substance; - thus, though rice is largely eaten in Italy, it is almost invariably - used in conjunction with Parmesan cheese. Rice contains no - flesh-forming properties whatever, as it contains no nitrogen; and with - all due respect to vegetarians, it will be found that as we recede from - the Equator and advance towards the Poles our food must of necessity - vary with the latitude, and, whereas we may start on a diet of rice, we - shall be forced, sooner or later, to depend upon a diet of pemmican, or - food of a similar nature. - </p> - - <p id="boiledrice061"> - <strong>Rice, to Boil.</strong>—The best method of boiling rice - is, at any rate, a much disputed point, if not an open question. There - are as many ways almost of boiling rice as dressing a salad, and each - one thinks his own way the best. We will mention a few of the most - simple, and will illustrate it by boiling a small quantity that can be - contained in a teacup. Of course, boiling rice is very much simplified - if you want some rice-water as well as rice itself. Rice-water contains - a great deal of nourishment, a fact which is well illustrated by the - well-known story of the black troops who served in India under Clive, - who, at the siege of Arcot, told Clive, when they were short of - provisions, that the water in which the rice was boiled would be - sufficient for them, while the more substantial grain could be - preserved for the European troops. Take a teacupful of rice and wash - the rice in several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Now - throw the rice into boiling water, say a quart; let the rice boil - gently till it is tender, strain off the rice and reserve the - rice-water for other purposes. The time rice will take to boil treated - this way would be probably about twenty minutes, but this time would - vary slightly with the quality and size of the rice. - </p> - - <hr /> - -<p> -Many years ago we watched a black man boiling rice on -board a P. and O. boat (the <em>Mizapore</em>); he proceeded as -follows:—He boiled the rice for about ten minutes, or perhaps -a minute or two longer, strained it off in a sieve, and then -washed the rice with cold water, and then put the rice back -in the stew-pan to once more get hot and swell. Of course, -this rice was being boiled for curry, and certainly the result -was that each grain was beautifully separated from every -other grain. We do not think, however, that this method -of boiling rice is customary on all the boats of the P. and O. -Company. Of course this method of boiling rice was somewhat -wasteful. -</p> - -<p> -By far the most economical method of boiling rice is as -follows; and we would recommend it to all who are in the -habit of practising economy on the grounds of either duty or -necessity. Wash thoroughly, as before, a teacupful of rice and -put it in a small stew-pan or saucepan with two breakfastcupfuls -of water, bring this to a boil and let it boil for ten -minutes, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and -let the rice soak and swell for about twenty minutes. After a -little time, you can put a cloth on the top of the saucepan to -absorb the steam, similar to the way you treat potatoes after -having strained off the water. -</p> - -<p> -In boiling rice we must remember that there are two ways -in which rice is served. One is as a meal in itself, the other -as an accompaniment to some other kind of food. It will be -found in Italy and Turkey and in the East generally, where -rice forms, so to speak, the staff of life, that it is not cooked -so soft and tender as it is in England, where it is generally -served with something else. In fact, each grain of rice may be -said to resemble an Irish potato, inasmuch as it has a heart in -it. In Ireland potatoes, as a rule, are not cooked so much -as they are in most parts of England. Probably the reason of -this is, in most cases, that experience has taught people that -there is more stay in rice and potatoes when served in a state -that English people would call “under-done.” There is no -doubt that the waste throughout the length and breadth of this -prosperous land through over-cooking is something appalling. -</p> - -<p> -Another very good method of boiling rice is the American -style. Take a good-sized stew-pan or saucepan that has a tight-fitting -lid. Put a cloth over the saucepan, after first pouring -in, say, a pint of water; push down the cloth, keeping it tight, -so as to make a well, but do not let the cloth reach the water; -wash the rice as before, and put on the lid tight. Of course, -with the cloth the lid will fit very tight indeed. Now put the -saucepan on the fire and make the water boil continuously. -By these means you steam the rice till it is tender and lose -none of the nourishment. We can always learn from America. -</p> - -<p id="risotto062"> -<strong>Risotto à la Milannaise.</strong>—Take a teacupful of -rice, wash it thoroughly and dry it. Chop up a small onion and put it in -the bottom of a small stew-pan and fry the onion to a light-brown colour. -Now add the dry rice, and stir this up with the onion and butter till the -rice also is fried of a nice light-brown colour. Now add two -breakfastcupfuls of <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water and a pinch of -powdered saffron, about sufficient to cover a threepenny-piece; let the -rice boil for ten or eleven minutes, move the saucepan to the side of the -fire and let it stand for twenty minutes or half an hour till it has -absorbed all the stock or water. Now mix in a couple of tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese. Flavour with a little pepper and salt, and serve -the whole very hot. -</p> - -<p id="riceandcabbage063"> -<strong>Rice with Cabbage and Cheese.</strong>—Wash some rice and let -it soak in some hot water, with a cabbage sliced up, for about -an hour; then strain it off and put the rice and cabbage in -a stew-pan with some butter, a little pepper and salt, and -about a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Toss these about in -the butter for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour over the -fire, but do not let them turn colour; then add a small -quantity of water or <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, let it stew till it is tender, and -then serve it very hot with some grated cheese sprinkled -over the top. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—The end of cheese rind can be utilised with this dish. -</p> - -<p id="riceandcheese063"> -<strong>Rice with Cheese.</strong>—Wash some rice and then boil it for -ten or eleven minutes in some milk, and let it stand till it -has soaked up all the milk. The proportion generally is, -as we have said before, a teacupful of rice to two breakfastcupfuls -of milk; but as we shall want the rice rather moist -on the present occasion, we must allow a little more milk. -Now mix in some grated cheese and a little pepper and salt, -place the mixture in a pie-dish, and cover the top with grated -cheese, and place the pie-dish in the oven and bake till the -top is nicely browned, and then serve. -</p> - -<p> -Some cooks add a good spoonful of made mustard to the -mixture. Some persons prefer it and some don’t; it is therefore -best to serve some made mustard with the rice and -cheese at table. Unless the mixture was fairly moist before -it was put into the pie-dish, it would dry up in the oven -and become uneatable. -</p> - -<p id="curriedrice063"> -<strong>Rice, Curried.</strong>—Boil a teacupful of well-washed rice -in two breakfastcupfuls of water, and let the rice absorb all the water; -put a cloth in the saucepan, and stir up the rice occasionally with a fork -till the grains become dry and separate easily the one from the other. Now -mix it up with some <a href="#currysauce050">curry sauce</a>, make the -whole hot, and send it to table with a few whole bay-leaves mixed in with -the rice. Only sufficient curry sauce should be added to moisten the -rice—it must not be rice swimming in gravy; or you can make a well in -the middle of the <a href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a> and pour the -curry sauce into this. -</p> - -<p id="riceborder064"> -<strong>Rice Borders (Casseroles).</strong>—Casseroles, or rice borders, -form a very handsome dish. It consists of a large border -made of rice, the outside of which can be ornamented -and the centre of which can be filled with a macedoine -(<em>i.e.</em>, a mixture) of fruit or vegetables. As you are probably -aware, grocers have in their shop-windows small tins with -copper labels, on which the word is printed “Macedoine.” -This tin contains a mixture of cut-up, cooked vegetables. -These are very useful to have in the house, as a nice dish -can be served at a few moments’ notice. Mixed fruits are -also sold in bottles under the name of Macedoine of Fruits. -Of course, both vegetables and fruit can be prepared at home -much cheaper from fresh fruit and vegetables, but this requires -time and forethought. These mixtures are very much -improved in appearance when served in a handsomely made -rice border, and as the border is eaten with the vegetables -and fruit there is no want of economy in the recipe. Suppose -we are going to make a rice border. Take a pound of rice and -wash it carefully if we are going to fill it with fruit we -must boil it in sweetened milk, but if we are going to fill -it with vegetables we must boil it in vegetable <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or -water. Add, as the case may be, sufficient liquid to boil -the rice till it is thoroughly tender and soft. Now place it -in a large bowl, and with a wooden spoon mash it till it -becomes a sort of firm, compact paste; then take it out and -roll it into the shape of a cannon-ball, and having done -this, flatten it till it becomes of the shape of the cheeses one -meets with in Holland—flat top and bottom, with rounded -edges. You can now ornament the outside by making it -resemble a fluted mould of jelly. The best way of doing this -is to cut a carrot in half and scoop out part of the inside -with a cheese-scoop, so that the width of the part where it -is scooped is about the same as the two flat sides. Make -the outside of the rice perfectly smooth with the back -of a wooden spoon. Butter the carrot mould to prevent it -sticking, and press this gently on the outside of the shape -of rice till it resembles the outside of a column in Gothic -architecture, then place it in the oven and let it bake till -it is firm and dry. Then scoop out the centre and put it -back for a short time. If the border is going to be used for a -macedoine of vegetables, beat up a yolk of egg and paint the -outside of the casserole with this, and then it will bake a nice -golden-brown colour. Now take it out of the oven and fill it -accordingly. It can be served hot or cold, or it can be filled -with a German salad. (<em>See</em> MACEDOINE OF FRUIT; <a -href="#macedoines155">MACEDOINE -OF VEGETABLES</a>; <a href="#germansalad100">SALAD, GERMAN</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="ricecroquettes065"> -<strong>Rice Croquettes, Savoury.</strong>—Boil a teacupful of rice -in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a> or water (about two -breakfastcupfuls), till it is tender, and until the rice has absorbed all -the water or stock. Chop up a small onion very fine, fry it till tender in -a very little butter, but do not let it brown; add a small teaspoonful of -mixed savoury herbs, a brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley, to the -contents of the frying-pan for two or three minutes, and then add them to -the rice. Mix it well together, and let the rice dry in the oven till the -mixture is capable of being rolled into balls. Now take two eggs, separate -the yolk from the white of one, beat up the whole egg and one white -thoroughly in a basin, but do no beat it to a froth; add the rice mixture -to this, mix it again very thoroughly, and then roll it into balls about -the size of a small walnut, seasoning the mixture with sufficient pepper -and salt. Roll these balls in flour, in order to insure the outside being -dry, and roll them backwards and forwards on the sieve in order to get rid -of the superfluous flour. Make some very fine bread-crumbs from some stale -bread; next beat up the yolk of egg with about a dessertspoonful of warm -water. Dip the rice-balls into this, and then cover them with the -bread-crumbs. Let them stand for an hour or two for the bread-crumbs to get -dry, and then fry them a light golden-brown colour in a little oil. Fried -parsley can be served with them. -</p> - -<p> -Instead of bread-crumbs you can use up broken vermicelli—the -bottom of a jar of vermicelli can sometimes be utilised -this way. This has a very pretty appearance. The vermicelli -browns quickly, and the croquettes have the appearance of little -balls covered in brown network. -</p> - -<p id="savouryrice066"> -<strong>Rice, Savoury.</strong>—There are several ways of serving -savoury rice. The rice can be boiled in some <a href="#stock021">stock</a>, -strongly flavoured with onion and celery, and when cooked sufficiently -tender one or two eggs can be beaten up with it, pepper and salt added, and -the mixture served with grated cheese. -</p> - -<p> -Rice can also be rendered savoury by the addition of chopped mushrooms, -pepper and salt, and a little butter, and if a tin of mushrooms is used, -the liquor in the tin should be added to the <a -href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a>, but in every case the rice should be -made to absorb the liquor in which it is boiled. Eggs can again be added, -as well as grated Parmesan cheese. -</p> - -<p> -A cheap and quick way of making rice savoury is to mix it -with a large tablespoonful of chutney; make it hot with a -little butter, and add pepper—cayenne if preferred—and a -little lemon-juice. -</p> - -<p> -Rice can also be served as savoury by boiling it in any of the sauces that -may be termed savoury in distinction to those that are sweet, given in the -chapter entitled “<a href="#sauces044">Sauces</a>.” -</p> - -<p id="riceandeggs066"> -<strong>Rice and Eggs.</strong>—Boil, say half a pound of rice, and -let it absorb the water in which it is boiled. Take four hard-boiled eggs, -separate the yolks from the whites, chop the whites very fine, and add them -to the rice with about a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley -and sufficient savoury herbs to cover a sixpence. Put this in the saucepan -and make it hot, with a little butter, and flavour with plenty of pepper -and salt. In the meantime beat the yellow hard-boiled yolks to a yellow -powder, turn out the rice mixture, when thoroughly hot, into a vegetable -dish, and put the yellow powder either in the centre or make a ring of the -yellow powder round the edge of the rice, and serve a little pile of fried -parsley in the middle. -</p> - -<p id="riceandtomatoes066"> -<strong>Rice and Tomato.</strong>—Take half-a-dozen ripe tomatoes, -squeeze out the pips, and put them in a tin in the oven with a little -butter to bake; baste them occasionally with a little butter. In the -meantime boil half a pound of rice in a little <a -href="#stock021">stock</a> or water, only adding sufficient so that the -rice can absorb the liquid. When this is done (and this will take about the -same time as the tomatoes take to bake), pour all the liquid and butter in -the tin on to the rice and stir it well up with some pepper and salt. Put -this on a dish, and serve the tomatoes on the rice with the red, unbroken -side uppermost. -</p> - -<p id="macaroni067"> -<strong>Macaroni.</strong>—Macaroni is a preparation of pure wheaten -flour. It is chiefly made in Italy, though a good deal is made in Geneva -and Switzerland. The best macaroni is made in the neighbourhood of Naples. -The wheat that grows there ripens quickly under the pure blue sky and hot -sun, and consequently the outside of the wheat is browner while the inside -of the wheat is whiter than that grown in England. The wheat is ground and -sifted repeatedly. It is generally sifted about five times, and the pure -snow-white flour that falls from the last sifting is made into macaroni. It -is first mixed with water and made into a sort of dough, the dough being -kneaded in the truly orthodox Eastern style by being trodden out with the -feet. It is then forced by a sort of rough machinery through holes, -partially baked during the process, and then hung up to dry. Macaroni -contains a great amount of nourishment, and it is only made from the purest -and finest flour. It is the staple dish throughout Italy, and in whatever -form or way it is cooked, except as a sweet, tomatoes and grated Parmesan -cheese seem bound to accompany it. -</p> - -<p id="sparghetti067"> -<strong>Sparghetti.</strong>—Sparghetti is a peculiar form of macaroni. -Ordinary macaroni is made in the form of long tubes, and -when macaroni pudding is served in schools, it is often -irreverently nicknamed by the boys gas-pipes. Sparghetti -is not a tube, but simply macaroni made in the shape of -ordinary wax-tapers, which it resembles very much in appearance. -In Italy it is often customary to commence -dinner with a dish of sparghetti, and should the dinner -consist as well of soup, fish, entrée, salad, and sweet, the -sparghetti would be served before the soup. Take, say, half a -pound of sparghetti, wash it in cold water, and throw it -instantly into boiling salted water; boil it till it is tender, -about twenty minutes, drain it, put it into a hot vegetable-dish, -and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated -Parmesan cheese; toss it about lightly with a couple of forks, -till the cheese melts and forms what may be called cobwebs -on tossing it about. Add also two tablespoonfuls of tomato -conserve (sold by all grocers, in bottles), and serve immediately. -This is very cheap, very satisfying, and very nourishing; and it -is to be regretted that this popular dish is not more often used -by those who are not vegetarians, who would benefit both in -pocket and in health were they to lessen their butcher’s bill by -at any rate commencing dinner, like the Italians, with a dish -of sparghetti. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniitalianfashion068"> -<strong>Macaroni—Italian Fashion.</strong>—This is very similar to -sparghetti, only ordinary pipe macaroni is used. Take, say, a -teacupful of macaroni, wash it, break it up into two-inch -pieces, and throw it into boiling water that has been salted. -Strain it of off, put it in the stew-pan for a few minutes, with -a little piece of butter and some pepper and salt. Add a tablespoonful -of tomato conserve, and serve it with some grated -Parmesan cheese, served separate in a dish. -</p> - -<p> -Some rub the stew-pan with a head of garlic. This gives it -what may be called a more foreign flavour, but this should not -be done unless you know your guests like garlic. Unfortunately, -the proper use of garlic is very little understood in this -country. -</p> - -<p id="macaronicheese068"> -<strong>Macaroni Cheese.</strong>—Some years back this was almost the only -form in which macaroni was served in this country. Macaroni -cheese used to be served at the finish of dinner in a dried-up -state, and was perhaps one of the most indigestible dishes -which the skill, or want of skill, of our English cooks was -able to produce. Wash and then boil a quarter of a pound -of macaroni in a little milk till it is quite tender, then -put into a well-buttered oval tin a layer of macaroni, and cover -this with a layer of bread-crumbs, mixed with grated cheese, -and add a few little lumps of butter; then put another layer of -macaroni and another layer of bread-crumbs and cheese. -Continue alternate layers till you pile up the dish, taking care -to have a layer of dried bread-crumbs at the top. Warm some -butter, but do not oil it, and pour some of this warm butter -over the top of the dish to moisten them; put the dish in the -oven till it is hot through, then take it out and brown the top -quickly with a red-hot salamander. If you leave the macaroni -cheese in the oven too long the dish will taste oily and the -cheese get so hard as to become absolutely indigestible. Any -kind of grated cheese will do for this dish, but to the English -palate it is best when made from a moist cheese similar to that -which would be used in making Welsh rabbit. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniandeggs069"> -<strong>Macaroni and Eggs.</strong>—Take half a pound of macaroni and -throw it into boiling water that has been salted. In the meantime have -ready four hard-boiled eggs. When the macaroni is nearly tender throw the -hard-boiled eggs into cold water for a minute, in order to enable you to -take off the shells without burning your fingers. Cut the eggs in half, -take out the half yellow yolk without breaking it; cut the whites of the -eggs into rings and mix these rings with the macaroni on the dish. The -macaroni and eggs must be flavoured with pepper and salt, and if possible -pour a little <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> over the whole. If -you have no white sauce add a little cream or a little thickened milk with -a little butter dissolved in it; now sprinkle a little chopped blanched -parsley over the whole and ornament the dish with the eight half-yolks. -</p> - -<p id="macaronialareine069"> -<strong>Macaroni à la Reine.</strong>—Boil half a pound of pipe -macaroni. Meanwhile warm slowly in a saucepan three-quarters -of a pint of cream, and slice into it half a pound of -Stilton or other white cheese, add two ounces of good fresh -butter, two blades of mace, pounded, a good pinch of cayenne -and a little salt. Stir until the cheese is melted and the whole -is free from lumps, when put in the macaroni and move it -gently round the pan until mixed and hot, or put the macaroni -on a hot dish and pour the sauce over. It may be covered -with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour and browned in a Dutch -oven. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniaugratin069"> -<strong>Macaroni au Gratin.</strong>—Break up a pound of macaroni in -three-inch lengths, boil as usual and drain. Put into a stew-pan a quarter -of a pound of fresh butter, the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and -Gruyère cheese mixed, and about a quarter of a pint of some good -sauce, <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>. Move the stew-pan and its -contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the butter, etc., -then turn it out on a dish, which should be garnished with croutons of -fried bread. Pile it in the shape of a dome, cover with bread-raspings, a -little clarified butter run through a colander, and brown very lightly with -a salamander. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—The above two recipes are taken from “Cassell’s -Dictionary of Cookery.” -</p> - -<p id="macaroniasanornament070"> -<strong>Macaroni as an Ornament.</strong>—Macaroni is sometimes used -to ornament the outside of puddings, either savoury or sweet. -Suppose the pudding has to be made in a small round mould -or basin. Some pipe macaroni is boiled in water till it is -tender, and then cut up into little pieces a quarter of an inch in -length. The inside of the mould is first thickly buttered, and -then these little quarter-inch tubes are stuck in the butter close -together; the pudding, for instance a custard pudding, is then -poured into the mould and the mould steamed. When the -pudding is turned out the outside of the pudding has the -appearance of a honey-comb, and looks extremely pretty. The -process is not difficult, but rather troublesome, as it requires -time and patience. -</p> - -<p id="timbaleofmacaroni070"> -<strong>Macaroni, Timbale of.</strong>—This is a somewhat expensive -dish. You have first to decorate a plain mould with what is -called <em>nouilles</em> paste, which is made by mixing half a pound -of flour with five yolks of eggs. The mould is then lined with -ordinary short paste, made with half a pound of flour, a quarter -of a pound of butter, and one yolk of egg, mixed in the -ordinary way. When the mould is lined, you have to fill it -up with flour, and bake it in a moderate oven for about an -hour. You then take it out, empty out the flour and brush it -well out with an ordinary brush and dry the mould in a very -slack oven. The mould is then filled with some macaroni that -has been boiled tender in milk and flavoured with vanilla and -sugar and Parmesan cheese. The macaroni must be so managed -that it absorbs the moisture. The mould is filled, made hot, -and then turned out. It is customary to shake some powdered -sugar over the mould, and then glaze it with a red-hot -salamander. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—Very few kitchens possess a proper salamander, -but if you make the kitchen shovel red-hot it will be found -to answer the same purpose. -</p> - -<p id="scollopedmacaroni070"> -<strong>Macaroni in Scollop Shells.</strong>—Take half a pound of -macaroni, wash it, and throw it into boiling water. Take the macaroni out, -drain it, and throw it into cold water. Then take it out and cut it into -pieces not more than half an inch in length. Take about a quarter of a -pound of butter, melt it in a stew-pan, and add about a cupful of milk, or -still better, cream. Stir it and dredge in enough flour to make it thick, -or still better, thicken it with a little <a href="#roux022">white -roux</a>; now add some pepper and salt, about a quarter of a grated nutmeg, -two or three spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; add the cut-up macaroni -and stir the whole well up over the fire together and fill the scollop -shells with the mixture, and throw some grated cheese over the top. Bake -the scollops in the oven till the cheese begins to brown; then pour a -little oiled butter over the top of the cheese. If made with cream this -dish is somewhat rich, but forms an admirable meal eaten with plenty of -bread. -</p> - -<p id="macaroninudels071"> -<strong>Macaroni Nudels.</strong>—The word nudel is probably derived -from French <em>nouilles</em> paste. It is made in a similar manner, or -nearly so. French cooks use only yolk of egg and flour. English cooks use -beaten-up eggs, and sometimes even reserve the yolks for other purposes and -make the paste with white of egg. In any case, the yolks, the whole eggs, -or the white without the yolks, must be well beaten up and then mixed in -with the flour with the fingers till it makes a stiff paste. This paste or -dough is then rolled out with a straight rolling pin—(not an English -one)—till it is as thin as a wafer. The board must be well floured or -it will stick. A marble slab is best, and if you are at a loss for a -rolling-pin try an empty black bottle. It is very important to roll the -pastry thin, and it has been well observed that the best test of thinness -is to be able to read a book through the paste. When rolled out, let each -thin cake dry for five or ten minutes. If you have a box of cutters you can -cut this paste into all sorts of shapes according to the shape of the -cutters, or you can cut each thin cake into pieces about the same size, and -then with a sharp dry knife cut the paste into threads. These threads or -ornamental shapes can be thrown into boiling <a href="#clearsoup030">clear -soup</a>, when they will separate of their own accord. Nudel paste is, in -fact, home-made Italian paste, or, when cut into threads, home-made -vermicelli. It is very nourishing, as it is made with eggs and flour. -</p> - -<p id="savourymacaroni072"> -<strong>Macaroni, Savoury.</strong>—Take half a pound of macaroni and -boil it in some slightly salted water, and let it boil and simmer -till the macaroni is tender and absorbs all the water in which -it is boiled. Now take a dessertspoonful of raw mustard, <em>i.e.</em>, -mustard in the yellow powder. Mix this gradually with the -macaroni, and add five or six tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan -cheese and a little cayenne or white pepper according to taste. -Turn the mixture out on to a dish, sprinkle some more grated -Parmesan cheese over the top, bake it in the oven till it -is slightly brown, pour a little oiled butter on the top, and -serve. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniandchestnuts072"> -<strong>Macaroni and Chestnuts.</strong>—Bake about twenty chestnuts -till they are tender, and then peel them and pound them in a mortar, with a -little pepper and salt and butter, till they are a paste. Next wash and -boil in the ordinary way half a pound of macaroni. Drain off the macaroni -and put it in a stew-pan with the chestnuts and about a couple of ounces of -butter to moisten it, and stir it all together and put an onion in to -flavour it as if you were making <a href="#breadsauce045">bread sauce</a>; -but the onion must be taken out whole before it is served. If the mixture -gets too dry, it can be moistened with a little milk or <a href="#stock021">stock</a>. After it has -been stirred together for about a quarter of an hour, turn it out on to a -dish, cover it with a little Parmesan cheese, bake in the oven till it is -brown, and moisten the top when browned with a little oiled butter. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniandtomatoes072"> -<strong>Macaroni and Tomatoes.</strong>—Take half a pound of macaroni; -wash it and boil it until it is tender. In the meantime take -half a dozen or more ripe tomatoes; cut off the stalks, squeeze -out the pips, and place them in a tin in the oven with a little -butter to prevent their sticking. It is as well to baste the -tomatoes once or twice with the butter and the juice that will -come from them. Put the macaroni when tender and well -drained off into a vegetable-dish, pour the contents of the -tin, butter and juice, over the macaroni and add pepper and -salt, and toss it lightly together. Now place the whole tomatoes -on the top of the macaroni, round the edge, at equal distances. -It is a great improvement to the appearance of the dish to -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the macaroni. -The tomatoes should be placed with the smooth, red, unbroken -side uppermost. -</p> - -<p id="macaroniandcream073"> -<strong>Macaroni and Cream</strong>.—Boil half a pound of macaroni; -cut it up into pieces about two inches long and put it into a -stew-pan with two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pound -of grated cheese, composed of equal parts of Gruyère and -Parmesan cheese. Moisten this with about three tablespoonfuls -of cream. Toss it all lightly together till the cheese makes -cobwebs. Add a little pepper and salt and serve with some -fried bread round the edge cut up into ornamental shapes. -Carefully made pieces of toast, cut into triangles, will do instead -of the fried bread. -</p> - -<p id="tagliatelli073"> -<strong>Tagliatelli</strong>.—Take some flour and water, and with the -addition of a little salt make a paste which can be rolled out -quite thin; cut this into shapes of the breadth of half a -finger. Throw them into boiling water and let them boil a -few minutes. Then remove them to cold water; drain them -on a sieve and use them as macaroni; place at the bottom of -a dish some butter and grated cheese, then a layer of <em>tagliatelli</em> -seasoned with pepper, another layer of butter and cheese, and -then one of <em>tagliatelli</em>, until the whole is used; pour over it -a glass of cream, add a layer of cheese, and finish like -<a href="#macaronicheese068">macaroni cheese</a>, browning it in the oven. -</p> - -<p id="oatmealporridge073"> -<strong>Oatmeal Porridge</strong>.—Of all dishes used by vegetarians there -are none more wholesome, more nourishing, or more useful as -an article of everyday diet for breakfast than oatmeal porridge. -When we remember that the Scotch, who, for both body and -brain, rank perhaps first amongst civilised nations, almost live -on this cheap and agreeable form of food, we should take -particular pains in the preparation of a standing dish which is -in itself a strong argument in favour of a vegetarian diet when -we look at the results, both mentally and bodily, that have -followed its use North of the Tweed. The following excellent -recipe for the preparation of oatmeal porridge is taken from a -book entitled, “A Year’s Cookery,” by Phyllis Browne -(Cassell & Co.):—“When there are children in the family it is -a good plan, whatever they may have for breakfast, to let them -begin the meal either with oatmeal porridge or bread-and-milk. -Porridge is wholesome and nourishing, and will help to make -them strong and hearty. Even grown-up people frequently -enjoy a small portion of porridge served with treacle and milk. -Oatmeal is either ‘coarse,’ ‘medium,’ or ‘fine.’ Individual -taste must determine which of these three varieties shall be -chosen. Scotch people generally prefer the coarsest kind. The -ordinary way of making porridge is the following—Put as -much water as is likely to be required into a saucepan with a -sprinkling of salt, and let the water boil. Half a pint of -water will make a single plateful of porridge. Take a knife (a -‘spurtle’ is the proper utensil) in the right hand, and some -Scotch, or coarse, oatmeal in the left hand, and sprinkle the -meal in gradually, stirring it briskly all the time; if any lumps -form draw them to the side of the pan and crush them out. -When the porridge is sufficiently thick (the degree of thickness -must be regulated by individual taste), draw the pan back a -little, <em>put on the lid</em>, and let the contents simmer gently till -wanted; if it can have two hours’ simmering, all the better; but -in hundreds of families in Scotland and the North of England -it is served when it has boiled for ten minutes or a quarter of -an hour; less oatmeal is required when it can boil a long time, -because the simmering swells the oatmeal, and so makes it go -twice as far. During the boiling the porridge must be stirred -frequently to keep it from sticking to the saucepan and -burning, but each time this is done the lid must be put on again. -When it is done enough it should be poured into a basin or upon -a plate, and served hot with sugar or treacle and milk or cream. -The very best method that can be adopted for making porridge -is to soak the coarse Scotch oatmeal in water for <em>twelve hours</em>, -or more (if the porridge is wanted for breakfast it may be put -into a pie-dish over night, and left till morning). As soon as -the fire is lighted in the morning it should be placed on it, -stirred occasionally, kept covered, and boiled as long as possible, -although it may be served when it has boiled for twenty -minutes. When thus prepared it will be almost like a delicate -jelly, and acceptable to the most fastidious palate. The proportions -for porridge made in this way are a heaped tablespoonful -of coarse oatmeal to a pint of water. -</p> - -<p> -“It is scarcely necessary to give directions for making— -</p> - -<p id="breadandmilk075"> -“<strong>Bread and Milk,</strong> for everyone knows how this should be -done. It may be said that the preparation has a better appearance -if the bread is cut very small before the boiling milk is -poured on it, and also that the addition of a small pinch of salt -takes away the insipidity. Rigid economists sometimes swell -the bread with boiling water, then drain this off and pour milk -in its place. This, however, is almost a pity, for milk is so -very good for children; and though recklessness is seldom to -be recommended, a mother might well be advised to be reckless -about the amount of her milk bill, provided always that the -quantity of milk be not wasted, and that the children have it.” -</p> - -<p id="milkporridge075"> -<strong>Milk Porridge</strong>.—Take a tablespoonful of oatmeal and mix -it up in a cup with a little cold milk till it is quite smooth, in -a similar way as you would mix ordinary flour and milk in -making batter. Next put a pint of milk on to boil, and as -soon as it boils mix in the oatmeal and milk, and let it boil for -about a quarter of an hour, taking care to keep stirring it the -whole time. The fire should not be too fierce, as the milk -is very apt to burn. Flavour this with either salt or sugar. -</p> - -<p id="riceandbarleyporridge075"> -<strong>Rice and Barley Porridge</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pound of -rice and a quarter of a pound of Scotch barley and wash them -very thoroughly. The most perfect way of washing barley and rice -is to throw them into boiling water, let them boil for five -or ten minutes, and then strain them off. By this means the -dirty outside is dissolved. Next boil the rice and barley gently -for three or four hours, strain them off, and boil them up again -in a little milk for a short time before they are wanted. It will -often be found best to boil the barley for a couple of hours and -then add the rice. A little cream is a very great improvement. -The porridge can be flavoured with pepper and salt, but is very -nice with brown sugar, treacle, or jam, and when cold forms -an agreeable accompaniment to stewed fruit. -</p> - -<p id="wholemealporridge075"> -<strong>Whole-meal Porridge</strong>.—Boil a quart of water and gradually -stir in about half a pound of whole-meal; let it boil for about -a quarter of an hour, and serve. Cold milk should accompany -this porridge. -</p> - -<p id="lentilporridge075"> -<strong>Lentil Porridge</strong>.—To every quart of water add about six -tablespoonfuls of lentil flour; let the whole boil for about -a quarter of an hour, and flavour with pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="hominy076"> -<strong>Hominy</strong>.—Take a teacupful of hominy, wash it in -several waters and rub it well between the hands, and throw away the grains -that float on the top, the same as you do with split peas, pour the water -off the top, then strain it off, and put it in a basin with a quart of -water, and cover the basin over with a cloth; put it by to soak overnight, -should it be required for breakfast in the morning. The next day put it in -an enamelled stew-pan with about a teaspoonful of salt, and let it simmer -gently over the fire, taking care that it does not burn. It is best to -butter the bottom of the saucepan, or if you have a small plate that will -just go inside you will find this a great protection. Let it simmer gently -for rather more than an hour. Stir it well up and flavour it with either -sugar or salt, and let it be eaten with cold milk poured on it on the -plate, or with a little butter. -</p> - -<p> -The hominy should simmer until it absorbs all the water -in which it is boiled. As a rule a good teacupful will absorb -a quart. -</p> - -<p id="friedhominy076"> -<strong>Hominy, Fried</strong>.—This is made from the remains of cold -boiled hominy. When cold it will be a firm jelly. Cut the -cold hominy into slices, flour them, egg and bread-crumb them, -and then plunge them into some smoking hot oil till they are -of a nice bright golden colour. They are very nice eaten with -lemon-juice and sugar, or they can be served with orange -marmalade. -</p> - -<p id="frumenty076"> -<strong>Frumenty</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pint of wheat, wash it -thoroughly, and let it soak for twelve hours or more in water. -Strain it off and boil it in some milk till it is tender, but do -not let it get pulpy. As soon as it is tender add a quart of -milk, flavoured with a little cinnamon, three ounces of sugar, -three ounces of carefully washed grocer’s currants, and let it -boil for a quarter of an hour. Beat up three yolks of eggs -in a tureen, and gradually add the mixture. It must not be -added to the eggs in a boiling state or else they will curdle. -A wineglassful of brandy is a great improvement, but is not -absolutely necessary. The wheat takes a long time to get -tender, probably four hours. -</p> - -<p id="sagoporridge077"> -<strong>Sago Porridge</strong>.—Wash the sago in cold water and boil it -in some water, allowing about two tablespoonfuls to every -pint; add pepper and salt and let cold milk be served with the -porridge. -</p> - -<p id="milktoast077"> -<strong>Milk Toast</strong>.—This is a very useful way of using up stale -bread. Toast the bread a light brown, and if by chance any -part gets black scrape it gently off. Butter the toast slightly, -lay the toast on the bottom of a soup-plate, and pour some -boiling milk over it. Very little butter should be used, and -children often prefer a thin layer of marmalade to butter. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - <h2 id="chapter4">CHAPTER IV.</h2> - - <h3>EGGS (SAVOURY) AND OMELETS.</h3> - - <p id="boiledeggs078"> -<strong>Eggs, Plain Boiled</strong>.—There is an old saying that there is -reason in the roasting of eggs. This certainly applies equally -to the more common process of boiling them. There are few -breakfast delicacies more popular than a new-laid egg. There -are few breakfast indelicacies more revolting than the doubtful -egg which makes its appearance from time to time, and which -may be classed under the general heading of “Shop ’uns.” It -is a sad and melancholy reflection that these more than doubtful -“shop ’uns” were all <em>once</em> new-laid. It is impossible to draw -any hard-and-fast line to say at what exact period an egg -ceases to be fit for boiling. There is an old tradition, the truth -of which we do not endorse, that eggs may arrive at a period -when, though they are not fit to be boiled, fried, poached, or -hard-boiled, they are still good enough for puddings and -pastry. There is no doubt that many good puddings are spoilt -because cooks imagine they can use up doubtful eggs. -</p> - -<p> -When eggs are more than doubtful, they are often bought -up by the smaller pastry-cooks in cheap and poor neighbourhoods -of our large towns, such as the East-End of London. -These eggs are called “spot eggs,” and are sold at thirty and -forty a shilling. They utilise them as follows: They hold the -egg up in front of a bright gas-light, when the small black -spot can be clearly seen. This black spot is kept at the lowest -point of the egg, <em>i.e.</em>, the egg is held so that this black spot is -at the bottom. The upper part of the egg is then broken and -poured off, the black spot being retained. The moment the -smallest streak proceeds from this black spot the pouring-off -process is stopped. Of course, the black part is all thrown -away, the stench from it being almost intolerable, containing, -as it does, sulphuretted hydrogen. We mention the fact for -what it is worth. It would be a bold man who tried to lay -down any law as to where waste ceases and the use of wrongful -material commences. Everything depends upon the circumstances -of the case in question. We fear there are many -thousands, hundreds of thousands, in this great city of London, -whose everyday life more or less compares with that of a -shipwrecked crew. They “fain would fill their belly with the -husks that the swine do eat, but no man gives unto them.” -There is this to be said in favour of vegetarian diet—that, -were it universal, grinding poverty would be banished from -the earth. We must not cry out too soon about using what -some men call bad material. Lord Byron, when he was starving -after shipwreck, was glad to make a meal off the paws of his -favourite dog, which had been thrown away when the carcase -had been used on a former occasion. -</p> - -<p> -The simplest way of boiling eggs is to place them at starting -in boiling water, and boil them from three to three and a -half to four minutes, according to whether they are liked -very lightly boiled, medium, or well-set. -</p> - -<p> -The egg saucepan should be small, so that when the eggs -are first plunged in it takes the water off the boil for a few -seconds, otherwise the eggs are likely to crack. This applies -more particularly to French eggs, which have thin, brittle -shells containing an excess of lime, probably due to the -large quantity of chalk which is the distinguishing feature -of the soil in the <em>Pas de Calais</em>, which is the chief neighbourhood -from which French eggs are imported. -</p> - -<p> -<em>Over a million</em> eggs are imported from France to England -every day, notwithstanding the fact that thousands are kept -awake by the crying of their neighbours’ fowls. -</p> - -<p> -There is a strange delusion among Londoners that an egg -is not good if it is milky. This, of course, is never met with -in London, for the simple reason that a milky egg means, as a -rule, than it has not been laid more than a few hours. For this -reason eggs literally hot from the nest are not suitable for -making puddings or even omelets. Eggs that have been kept -one or two days will be found to answer better, as they possess -more binding properties. -</p> - -<p> -There is an old-fashioned idea that the best way to boil an -egg is to place it in the saucepan in cold water, to put the -saucepan on the fire, and as soon as the water boils the egg is -done. A very little reflection will show that this entirely -depends upon the size of the saucepan and the fierceness of the -fire. If the saucepan were the size of the egg, the water would -boil before the egg was hot through; on the other hand, no -one could place an egg in the copper on this principle and then -light the copper fire. -</p> - -<p> -Eggs are best boiled in the dining-room on the fire, or in -an ornamental egg-boiler. By this means we get the eggs <em>hot</em>, -an occurrence almost unknown in large hotels and big establishments. -</p> - -<p id="tobreakeggs080"> -<strong>Eggs, To Break.</strong>—Whenever you break eggs, never mind -what quantity, always break each egg separately into a cup -first; see that it is good, and then throw it into a basin with -the rest. One bad egg would spoil fifty. Supposing you -have a dozen or two dozen new-laid eggs just taken from the -nest, it is not an uncommon thing to have one that has been -overlooked for weeks, and which may be a half-hatched mass -of putrefaction. -</p> - -<p id="friedeggs080"> -<strong>Eggs, Fried.</strong>—The first point is to have a clean frying-pan, -which is an article of kitchen furniture very rarely indeed met -with in this country. For frying eggs, and for making omelets, -it is essential that the frying-pan should never be used for -other purposes. -</p> - -<p> -If you think <em>your</em> frying-pan is perfectly clean, warm it in -front of the fire for half a minute, put a clean white cloth -over the top of the finger, and then rub the inside of the -frying-pan. -</p> - -<p> -To fry eggs properly, very little butter will be required; a -little olive-oil will answer the same purpose. If you have too -much “fat,” the white of the eggs are apt to develop into big -bubbles or blisters. Another point is, you do not want too -fierce a fire. Fry them very slowly. Some cooks will almost -burn the bottom of the egg before the upper part is set. As -soon as the white is set round the edge, you will often find the -yolk not set at all, surrounded by a rim of semi-transparent -“albumen.” When this is the case, it is very often a good -plan to take the frying-pan off the fire (we are presuming the -stove is a shut-up one), and place it in the oven for a minute -or so, leaving the oven door open. By this means the heat of -the oven will set the upper part of the eggs, and there is no -danger of the bottom part being burnt. -</p> - -<p> -There is a great art in taking fried eggs out of a frying-pan -and serving them on a dish. Fried eggs, to look nice, -should have the yolk in the centre, surrounded by a ring of -white, perfectly round, rather more than an inch in breadth. -</p> - -<p> -Take an egg-slice in the left hand, slide it under each -egg separately, so that the yolk gets well into the middle of -the slice. Now take a knife in the right hand and trim off -the superfluous white. By this means you will be able to -do it neatly. The part trimmed away is virtually refuse. -Of course, you do not throw away more than is necessary, -but take care that the white rim round the yolk is of uniform -breadth. Most cooks take the egg out with their right -hand, and attempt to trim it with the left; the result is -about as neat as what would happen were you to attempt -to write a letter with your left hand in a hurry. -</p> - -<p> -Very often the appearance of fried eggs is improved by -sprinkling over them a few specks of chopped parsley. -</p> - -<p> -In placing fried eggs on toast, place the slice over the -toast and draw the slice away. Do not push the egg on; -you may break it. -</p> - -<p id="poachedeggs081"> -<strong>Eggs, Poached</strong>.—The best kitchen implement to use for -poaching eggs is a good large frying-pan. The mistake is -to let the water boil; it should only just simmer. You -should avoid having the white of the egg set too hard. We -should endeavour to have the eggs look as white as possible. -In order to insure this, put a few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice -into the water, break the eggs separately into a clip, and -then turn them very gently into the hot water. When they -are set fairly firm take them out with an egg-slice, using the -left hand as before, and trim them with the right. It is not -necessary, in poached eggs, to have a clear yolk surrounded -with a white uniform ring. Poached eggs often look best when -the yolk reposes in a sort of pillow-case of white. Before -putting them on toast or spinach, &c., be very careful to drain -off the water; this is particularly important when the water -is acid, especially with vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="hardboiledeggs081"> -<strong>Eggs, Hard-boiled</strong>.—Place the eggs in cold water, bring -the water to boiling point, and let them boil for ten minutes; -if the hard-boiled eggs are wanted hot, put them in cold water -for half a minute, in order that you may remove the shells -without burning your fingers. If the eggs are required cold, -it is best not to remove the shells till just before they are -wanted; but if they have to be served cold, similar to what we -meet with at railway refreshment-rooms, let them be served -cold, <em>whole</em>. If you cut a hard-boiled egg the yolk very soon -gets discoloured and brown round the edge, shrivels up, and -becomes most unappetising in appearance. -</p> - -<p id="curriedeggs082"> -<strong>Eggs, Curried.</strong>—Take some <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut them in halves (remove -the half-yolks), and cut them into rings. Place all these rings round the -edge of the dish, and pile the white rings up to make a sort of border; -pour some thick <a href="#currysauce050">curry sauce</a> in the middle, -place the half-yolks at equal distances apart, on the white round the edge, -and sprinkle a few specks of green parsley round the edge on the whites; -this will give the dish a pretty appearance. -</p> - -<p id="devilledeggs082"> -<strong>Eggs, Devilled.</strong>—Take, say, half a dozen eggs, boil them -hard, remove the shells while hot, cut them in halves, scoop -out the yolk, and cut a tiny piece off the bottom of each -white cup, so that it will stand upright—à la Columbus. -Next take all the yolks, and put them in a basin, and pound -them with a little butter till you get a thick squash; add some -cayenne pepper, according to taste, a little white pepper, a -little salt, and a few drops of chilli-vinegar or ordinary -vinegar; you can also add a little finely chopped parsley—say -a teaspoonful. Fill each cup with some of this mixture, -and as there will be more than enough to fill them, owing -to the butter, bring them to a point, like a cone. Devilled -eggs are best served cold, in which case they look best -placed on a silver or ordinary dish, the bottom of which is -covered with green parsley; the white looks best on a green -bed. Some cooks chop up the little bits of white cut off -from the bottom of the cups, divide them into two portions, -and colour one half pink by shaking them in a saucer with -a few drops of cochineal. These white and pink specks are -then sprinkled over the parsley. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—In an ordinary way devilled eggs require anchovy -sauce to be mixed with the yolks, but anchovy sauce is not -allowed in vegetarian cookery. -</p> - -<p id="eggsalabonnefemme083"> -<strong>Eggs à la bonne femme</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in -making <a href="#devilledeggs082">devilled eggs</a>, till you place the -yolks in the basin; then add to these yolks, while hot, a little dissolved -butter, and small pieces of chopped cold boiled carrot, turnip, celery, and -beet-root; season with white pepper and salt, and mix well together. Add -also a suspicion of nutmeg and a little lemon-juice. Fill the cups with -this while the mixture is moist, as when the butter gets cold the mixture -gets firm. If you use chopped beet-root as well as other vegetables, it is -best to fill half the cups with half the mixture before any beetroot is -added, then add the beet-root and stir the mixture well up and it will turn -a bright red. Now fill the remaining half of the cups, and place them on -the dish containing the parsley, alternately. The red contrasts prettily -with the light yellowish white of the first half. Do not colour the white -specks with cochineal, as this is a different shade of red from the -beet-root. You can chop up the white and sprinkle it over the parsley with -a little chopped beet-root as well. -</p> - -<p id="eggsalatripe083"> -<strong>Eggs à la tripe</strong>.—Small Spanish onions are -perhaps best for this dish, but ordinary onions can be used. Cut the onions -cross-ways after peeling them, so that they fall in rings, and remove the -white core. Two Spanish or half a dozen ordinary onions will be sufficient. -Fry these rings of onions in butter till they are tender, without browning -them. Take them out of the frying-pan and put them aside. Add a spoonful of -flour to the frying-pan, and make a paste with the butter, and then add -sufficient milk so that when it is boiled and stirred up it makes a thick -sauce; add pepper and salt, a little lemon-juice, and a small quantity of -grated nutmeg. Put back the rings of onions into this, and let them simmer -gently. Take half a dozen <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled -eggs</a>, cut the eggs in halves, remove the yolks, and cut the whites into -rings, like the onions, mixing these white egg-rings with the onions and -sauce; make the whole hot and serve on a dish, using the hard-boiled -half-yolks to garnish; sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the whole, -and serve. -</p> - -<p id="eggforcemeat083"> -<strong>Egg, Forcemeat of, or Egg Balls</strong>.—Take three hard-boiled -yolks of eggs, powder them, mix in a raw yolk, add a little -pepper and salt, a small quantity of grated nutmeg, about a -saltspoonful of finely chopped parsley, chopped up with a -pinch of savoury herbs, or a pinch of dust from bottled savoury -herbs, sifted from them, may be added instead. Roll these -into balls not bigger than a very small marble, flour them, and -throw them into boiling water till they are set. -</p> - -<p id="eggballs083"> -In many parts of the Continent, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, -served whole, are used as egg balls. A much cheaper way of -making egg balls is as follows:—Beat up one egg, add a teaspoonful -of chopped blanched parsley, some pepper and salt, -and a very little grated nutmeg. Sift a bottle of ordinary mixed -savoury herbs in a sieve, and take about half a saltspoonful of -the dust and mix this with the egg, This will be found really -better than using the herbs themselves. Now make some very -fine bread-crumbs from <em>stale</em> bread, and mix this with the -beaten-up egg till you make a sort of soft paste or dough; roll -this into balls the size of a marble, flour them, and throw them -into boiling water. The balls must be small or they will split -in boiling. -</p> - -<p id="eggsaugratin084"> -<strong>Eggs au gratin</strong>.—Make about half a pint of <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, make it hot over the fire, and -stir in about two ounces of Parmesan cheese, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, -some white pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Make this hot, and then -add the yolks of four eggs. Stir it all up, and keep stirring very quickly -till the mixture begins to thicken, when you must instantly remove it from -the fire, but continue stirring for another minute. In the meantime have -ready some <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut these -into slices, and make a circle of the bigger slices on a dish; then spread -a layer of the mixture over the slices of egg, and place another layer on -this smaller than the one below, then another layer of mixture, and so on -with alternate layers till you pile it up in the shape of a pyramid. Spread -a layer of the remainder of the mixture over the surface, and sprinkle some -powdered light-coloured bread-raspings mixed with some grated Parmesan -cheese over the whole; place the dish in the oven to get hot and to -slightly brown, and then serve. Some fried bread cut into pretty shapes can -be used to ornament the base. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandspinach085"> -<strong>Eggs and Spinach</strong>.—Make a thick purée of -spinach; take some <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut -them in halves while hot, after removing the shells, and press each half a -little way into the purée, so that the yellow yolk will be shown -surrounded by the white ring. Be very careful not to smear the edge with -the spinach. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—Sometimes eggs are poached and laid on the spinach -whole. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandturniptops085"> -<strong>Eggs and Turnip-tops</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above, using a -purée of turnip-tops instead of spinach. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandasparagus085"> -<strong>Eggs and Asparagus</strong>.—Have ready some of the green -parts of asparagus, boiled tender, and cut up into little pieces -an eighth of an inch long so that they look like peas. Beat up -four eggs very thoroughly with some pepper and salt, and mix -in the asparagus, only do not break the pieces of green. Melt -a couple of ounces of butter in a small stew-pan, and as soon as -it commences to froth pour in the beaten-up egg and asparagus; -stir the mixture quickly over the fire, being careful to scrape -the bottom of the saucepan. As soon as the mixture thickens -pour it on some hot toast, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandcelery085"> -<strong>Eggs and Celery</strong>.—Have ready some stewed celery on -toast. (<em>See</em> <a href="#stewedcelery145">CELERY, STEWED</a>.) <a -href="#poachedeggs081">Poach some eggs</a> and place them on the top. <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">Hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut into slices, can be -added to the celery instead of poached eggs. -</p> - -<p> -When stewed celery is served as a course by itself, the -addition of the eggs and plenty of bread make it a wholesome -and satisfying meal. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Egg Salad</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#eggsalad099">SALADS</a>.) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Egg Sandwiches</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#eggsandwiches106">SANDWICHES</a>.) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Egg Sauce</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#eggsauce051">SAUCES</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="eggtoast085"> -<strong>Egg Toast</strong>.—Beat up a couple of eggs, melt an ounce of -butter in a saucepan, and add to it a little pepper and salt. As -soon as the butter begins to froth, add the beaten-up egg and -stir the mixture very quickly, and the moment it begins to -thicken pour it over a slice of hot buttered toast. -</p> - -<p id="eggsaladauphine085"> -<strong>Eggs à la Dauphine</strong>.—Take ten <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut them -in halves and remove the yolks, and place the yolks in a basin -with a piece of new bread, about as big as the fist, that has been -soaked in some milk, or better still, cream; add a teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, a quarter of a grated nutmeg, and two -ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; rub the whole well together, -and then add two whole eggs, well beaten up, to the -mixture to moisten it. Next fill all these white cups of eggs -with some of this mixture, place the eggs well together, and -spread a thin layer of the mixture over the top; then take a -smaller number of half-eggs, filled, and place on the top and -make a pyramid, so that a single half-egg is at the top. You -can place ten half-eggs at the bottom in one layer, six half-eggs -on the top of these, spreading a thin layer of the mixture, then -three half-eggs, one more layer of the mixture, and then one -half-egg at the summit. This dish is sometimes ornamented -by forcing hard-boiled yolks of eggs through a wire sieve. It -falls like yellow vermicelli into threads. This dish should be -placed in the oven, to be made quite hot, and some kind of -<a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>should be poured round the edge. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandblackbutter086"> -<strong>Eggs and Black Butter</strong>.—<a href="#friedeggs080">Fry -some eggs</a>, serve them up on a hot dish, and pour some black butter -round the base. (<em>See</em> <a href="#blackbutter048">BLACK BUTTER -SAUCE</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="eggsandgarlic086"> -<strong>Eggs and Garlic</strong>.—This is better adapted for an -Italian than an English palate. Take half a dozen heads of garlic and fry -them in a little butter in order to remove the rankness of flavour. Take -them out and pound them in a mortar with rather more than a tablespoonful -of oil; heat this on the fire in a stew-pan, after adding some pepper and -salt. Beat up an egg, and stir this in with the oil and garlic till the -mixture gets thick. Arrange some slices of <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>—four eggs would be -sufficient—pour this mixture in the centre, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandmushrooms086"> -<strong>Eggs with Mushrooms</strong>.—Take half a pint of button -mushrooms and, if fresh, peel them and throw them instantly into water made -acid with lemon-juice, in order that they may not turn a bad colour. In the -meantime slice up a good-sized Spanish onion, and fry the onion in a little -butter. As soon as the onion is a little tender, chop up and add the -mushrooms. Put all this into a stew-pan with a little <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, or a little water can be added and -then thickened with a little butter and flour. Let this simmer gently for -nearly half an hour, add a little made mustard, pepper and salt and a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. Before sending to table add half a dozen <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>; the whites should be cut -into rings, and should be only put into the sauce long enough to get hot; -the yolks should be kept separate, but must be warmed up in the sauce. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandonions087"> -<strong>Eggs and Onions</strong>.—Cut up a large Spanish onion in -slices, and fry it in some butter till it is a light brown and tender, but -do not let it burn; drain off the butter and put the fried onion on a dish; -sprinkle some cayenne pepper and a little salt over the onions, and squeeze -the juice of a whole lemon over them. Now <a href="#poachedeggs081">poach -some eggs</a> and serve them on the top of the onion. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandpotatoes087"> -<strong>Eggs and Potatoes</strong>.—Take the remains of some floury -potatoes, beat up an egg, and mix the potato flour with the -egg. You can also chop up very finely a small quantity of -onion and parsley, and season with plenty of pepper and salt. -The respective quantities of floury potatoes and beaten egg -must be so regulated that you can roll the mixture into balls -without their having any tendency to break. Make the balls -big enough so that when you press them between the hands -you can squeeze the ball into the shape of an ordinary egg, or -you can mould them into this shape with a tablespoon. Now -flour these imitation eggs in order to dry the surface, and then -dip them into well-beaten-up egg and cover them with dried -bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little butter or oil, or brown -them in the oven, occasionally basting them with a little -butter. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandsaucerobert087"> -<strong>Eggs and Sauce Robert</strong>.—Take some <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut them into quarters, and -make them hot in some Sauce Robert—(<em>see</em> <a -href="#robertsauce058">ROBERT SAUCE</a>)—and serve with fried or -toasted bread in a dish. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandsorrel087"> -<strong>Eggs and Sorrel</strong>.—Make a thick purée of -sorrel—(<em>see</em> <a href="#sorrelsauce058">SORREL -SAUCE</a>)—and serve some <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled</a> or <a -href="#poachedeggs081">poached eggs</a> on the top. -</p> - -<p id="broiledeggs087"> -<strong>Eggs, Broiled</strong>.—Cut a large slice of crumb of bread off a -big loaf; toast it lightly, put some pieces of butter on it, and -put it on a dish in front of the fire; then break some eggs carefully -on to the toast, and let them set from the heat of the fire -like a joint roasting; when the side nearest the fire gets set, it -will be necessary to turn the dish round. When the whole -has set, squeeze the juice of an orange over the eggs, and a -little grated nutmeg may be added. The eggs and toast should -be served in the same dish in which they are baked. -</p> - -<p id="butteredeggs088"> -<strong>Eggs, Buttered</strong>.—Break some eggs into a flat dish, then -take a little butter and make it hot in a frying-pan till it -frizzles and begins to turn brown. Now pour this very hot -butter, which is hotter than boiling water, over the eggs in the -dish. Put the dish in the oven a short time, and finish off -setting the yolks with a red-hot salamander. -</p> - -<p id="scrambledeggs088"> -<strong>Eggs, Scrambled</strong>.—Scrambled eggs, when finished properly, -should have the appearance of yellow and white streaks, distinct -in colour, but yet all joined together in one mass. Melt a -little butter in the frying-pan, break in some eggs, as if for -frying; of course, the whites begin to set before the yolks. As -soon as the whites are nearly but not quite set, stir the whole -together till the whole mass sets. By this means you will get -yellow and white streaks joined together. It is very important -that you don’t let the eggs get brown at the bottom; you will -therefore require a perfectly clean frying-pan and not too -fierce a fire. -</p> - -<p id="eggsinsunshine088"> -<strong>Eggs in Sunshine</strong>.—This is a name given to fried eggs -with tomato served on the top. You want a dish that will -stand the heat; consequently, take an oval baking-tin, or -enamelled dish that you can put on the top of a shut-up stove. -Melt a little butter in this, and as soon as it begins to frizzle -break some eggs into the dish, and let them all set together. -As soon as they are set, pour four or five tablespoonfuls of -tomato conserve on the top; this is much better than tomato -sauce, which contains vinegar. Or you can bake half a dozen -ripe tomatoes in a tin in the oven, and place these on the top -instead of the tomato conserve. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandcucumber088"> -<strong>Eggs and Cucumber</strong>.—Peel and slice up two or three -little cucumbers of the size generally sold on a barrow at a penny each. -Put these with two or three ounces of butter in a stew-pan, and three small -onions about the size of the top of the thumb, chopped very fine; fry these -and add a dessertspoonful of vinegar. When the cucumber is tender, and a -little time has been allowed for the vinegar to evaporate, add six <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut into slices; make these -very hot and serve. Pepper and salt must be added. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandcheese089"> -<strong>Eggs with Cheese</strong>.—Take a quarter of a pound of grated -cheese (the cheese should be dry and white), melt this cheese -gently in a stew-pan over the fire, with a little bit of butter -about as big as the thumb, in order to assist the cheese in -melting. Mix with it a brimming teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, two or three tiny spring onions, chopped very fine, -and about a quarter of a small grated nutmeg. When the -cheese is melted, add six beaten-up eggs, and stir the whole -together till they are set. Fried or toasted bread should be -served round the edge of the dish. -</p> - -<p id="littleeggs089"> -<strong>Little Eggs for Garnishing</strong>.—This is a nice dish when -you require a lot of white of eggs for other purposes, such -as iceing a wedding-cake, or making light vanilla or almond -biscuits. -</p> - -<p> -Take six hard-boiled yolks, powder them, flavour with a -little pepper and salt, and mix in three raw yolks; mix -this well together, and roll them into shapes like very small -sausages, pointed at each end like a foreign cigar. Flour -these on the outside, and throw them into boiling water. -These can be used for garnishing purposes for the vast -majority of vegetarian dishes. They can be flavoured if wished -with grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, and a few savoury -herbs. -</p> - -<p id="omelets089"> -<strong>Omelets</strong>.—It is a strange fact, but not the less true, that -to get a well-made omelet in a private house in this country -is the exception and not the rule. A few general remarks -on making omelets will, we hope, not be out of place in -writing a book on an exceptional style of cookery, in which -omelets should play a most important part. -</p> - -<p> -First of all, we require an omelet-pan, and for this purpose -the cheaper the frying-pan the better. The best omelet-pan -of all is a copper one, tinned inside. Copper conveys -heat quicker than almost any other metal; consequently, if -we use an ordinary frying-pan, the thinner it is the quicker -will heat be conveyed. -</p> - -<p> -It is very essential that the frying-pan be absolutely -clean, and it will be found almost essential to reserve the -omelet-pan for omelets only. A frying-pan that has cooked -meat should not be used for the purpose; and although in vegetarian -cookery a frying-pan has not been used in this manner, -we should still avoid one in which onions or vegetables, or even -black butter has been made. The inside of an omelet-pan -should always look as if it had only just left the ironmonger’s -shop. -</p> - -<p> -The next great question is, how much butter should be -allowed for, say, six eggs? On this point the greatest authorities -differ. We will first quote our authorities, and then -attempt to give an explanation that reconciles the difference. -A plain omelet may be roughly described as settings of eggs -well beaten up by stirring them up in hot butter. One of the -oldest cookery books we can call to mind is entitled “The Experienced -English Housekeeper,” by Elizabeth Raffald. The -book, which was published in 1775, is dedicated to the Hon. -Lady Elizabeth Warburton, whom the authoress formerly -served. as housekeeper. The recipe is entitled “To make an -amulet.” The book states, “Put a quarter of a pound of butter -into a frying-pan, break six eggs”; Francatelli also gives four -ounces of butter to six eggs. -</p> - -<p> -On the other hand, Soyer, the great cook, gives two ounces -of butter to six eggs; so also does the equally great Louis -Eustache Ude, cook to Louis XVI. -</p> - -<p> -We may add that “Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery” recommended -two ounces of butter to six eggs, whilst “Cassell’s -Shilling Cookery” recommends four eggs. -</p> - -<p> -The probable reason why two such undoubtedly great -authorities as Soyer and Francatelli should differ is that in -making one kind of omelet you would use less butter than in -making another. Francatelli wrote for what may be described -as that “high class cooking suited for Pall Mall clubs,” where -no one better than himself knew how best to raise the jaded -appetite of a wealthy epicure. Soyer’s book was written for -the people. -</p> - -<p> -There are two kinds of omelets, one in which the egg is -scarcely beaten at all, and in which, when cooked, the egg -appears set in long streaks. There is also the richer omelet, -which is sent to table more resembling a light pudding. For -the former of these omelets, two ounces of butter will suffice -for six eggs; for the latter of these you will require four -ounces of butter, or else the omelet will be leathery. In -Holland, Belgium, and Germany, and in country villages in -France, the omelet is made, as a rule, with six eggs to two -ounces of butter. It comes up like eggs that have been set. -In the higher-class restaurants in Paris, like Bignon’s, or the -Café Anglais, the omelet is lighter, and probably about four -ounces of butter would be used to six eggs. -</p> - -<p> -This probably explains the different directions given in -various cookery books for making omelets. -</p> - -<p id="plainomelet091"> -<strong>Omelet, Plain</strong>.—Melt <em>four</em> ounces of butter in a frying-pan, -heat up six eggs <em>till they froth</em>; add a little pepper and -salt, pour the beaten-up eggs into the frying-pan as soon as the -butter begins to frizzle, and with a tablespoon keep scraping -the bottom of the frying-pan in every part, not forgetting the -edge. Gradually the mixture becomes lumpy; still go on -scraping till about two-thirds or more are lumpy and the rest -liquid. Now slacken the heat slightly by lifting the frying-pan -from the fire, and push the omelet into half the frying-pan -so that it is in the shape of a semicircle. By this time, probably, -it will be nearly set. Take the frying-pan off the fire, -and hold it in a slanting direction in front of the fire. When -the whole is set, as it will quickly do, slide off the omelet from -the frying-pan on to a hot dish with an egg-slice, and serve. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Omelet, Plain (another way)</strong>.—Put <em>two</em> ounces of butter -into a frying-pan, break six eggs into a basin with a little pepper -and salt, <em>and beat them very slightly</em>, so that the yolks and whites -are quite mixed into one, but do not beat them more than you -can help, and <em>do not let the eggs froth</em>. As soon as the butter -frizzles, pour in the beaten eggs, scrape the frying-pan quickly -with a spoon in every part till the mixture gets lumpy. Now -slacken the heat if the fire is fierce, and let the mixture set in -the frying-pan like a pancake. As soon as it is nearly set, with -perhaps only a dessertspoonful of liquid left unset, turn the -omelet over, one half on to the other half, in the shape of a -semicircle, and bring the spoonful of unset fluid to join them -over the edge. Slide off the omelet on to a hot dish with an -egg-slice. -</p> - -<p id="fineherbsomelet092"> -<strong>Omelet with Fine Herbs</strong>.—Chop up a dessertspoonful of -parsley, and add a good pinch of powdered savoury herbs, add -these with pepper and salt to the six beaten-up eggs in a basin. -Beat up the eggs, either slightly or very thoroughly, according -to whether you use two ounces of butter or four. Proceed in -every respect, in making the omelet, as directed for <a -href="#plainomelet091">plain -omelet</a> above. -</p> - -<p id="onionomelet092"> -<strong>Omelet with Onion</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in the above -recipe, only adding to the chopped parsley a piece of onion or -shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to the first -joint, also very finely chopped. When onion is used in making -an omelet a little extra pepper should be added. -</p> - -<p id="cheeseomelet092"> -<strong>Omelet with Cheese</strong>.—Proceed as if making an ordinary -omelet, with four ounces of butter. Add to the six well beaten-up -eggs about four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; a small -quantity of cream will be found a great improvement to this -omelet. A little pepper and salt must, of course, be added -as well. -</p> - -<p id="potatoomelet092"> -<strong>Potato Omelet</strong>.—Mix three ounces of a floury potato with -six eggs, a little pepper and salt, and half a pint of milk, and -make the milk boil and then stand for a couple of minutes -before it is mixed with the eggs; pour this mixture into three -or four ounces of butter, and proceed as in making an ordinary -omelet. -</p> - -<p id="sweetpotatoomelet092"> -<strong>Potato Omelet, Sweet</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above, only -instead of adding pepper and salt mix in a brimming tablespoonful -of finely powdered sugar, the juice of a lemon, with -half a grated nutmeg. -</p> - -<p id="cheesesouffle092"> -<strong>Cheese Soufflé</strong>.—To make a small cheese soufflé in a round -cake-tin, proceed as follows:—Make the tin very hot in the -oven. Put in about an ounce of butter, so as to make the tin -oily in every part inside. The tin must be tilted so that the -butter pours round the sides of the tin as well as the bottom. -Take two eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, and beat the -whites to a stiff froth; beat up the two yolks very thoroughly -with a quarter of a pint of milk. Add to this two tablespoonfuls -of grated Parmesan cheese; add this mixture to the -beaten-up whites, and mix the whole carefully together. Now -pour this mixture into the hot buttered tin, which should be -five or six inches deep, and bake it in the oven. The mixture -will rise to five or six times its original depth. As soon as it -is done, run with the soufflé from the oven door to the dining-room -door. However quick you may be, the soufflé will probably -sink an inch on the way. Some cooks wrap hot flannel -on the outside of the tin to keep up the heat. If you have a -folded dinner napkin round the tin for appearance sake, as is -usually the case, fold the napkin before you make the soufflé, -and make the napkin sufficiently big round that it can be -dropped over the tin in an instant. The napkin should be -pinned, and be quite half an inch in diameter bigger than the -width of the tin. This is to save time. Delay in serving the -soufflé is fatal. -</p> - -<p id="omeletsouffle093"> -<strong>Omelet Soufflé, Sweet</strong>.—In making an omelet soufflé, -sweet, you can proceed in exactly the same manner as making a -cheese soufflé, with the exception that you add two tablespoonfuls -of powdered sugar instead of two tablespoonfuls of grated -cheese. The omelet will, however, require flavouring of some -kind, the two most delicate being vanilla and orange-flower -water. You can flavour it with lemon by rubbing a few lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon, and then pounding this with -the powdered sugar. It must be pounded very thoroughly and -mixed very carefully, or else one part of the omelet will taste -stronger of lemon than the other. Some powdered sugar -should be shaken over the top of the soufflé just before -serving. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Omelet Soufflé (another way)</strong>.—When a soufflé is made on -a larger scale, and served up on a flat dish, it is best to proceed -as follows:—Take six ounces of powdered sugar, and mix them -with six yolks of eggs and a dessertspoonful of flour and a -pinch of salt. To this must be added whatever flavouring is -used, such as vanilla. This is all mixed together till it is -perfectly smooth. Next beat the six whites to a very stiff -froth; mix this in with the batter lightly, put two ounces of -butter into an omelet-pan, and as soon as the butter begins to -frizzle pour in the mixture. As it begins to set round the -edges, turn it over and heap it up in the middle, and then slide -the omelet off on to a plated-edged baking dish, which must be -well buttered. Put it in the oven for about a quarter of an -hour, to let it rise, shake some powdered sugar over the top, -and serve very quickly. -</p> - -<p id="sweetomelet094"> -<strong>Omelet, Sweet</strong>.—Make an ordinary <a -href="#plainomelet091">plain omelet</a> with six -eggs and either two or four ounces of butter, as directed for -making omelet, plain. Instead of adding pepper and salt to -the beaten-up eggs, add one or two tablespoonfuls of finely -powdered sugar. At the last moment, sprinkle a little -powdered sugar over the omelet, and just glaze the sugar with -a red-hot salamander. -</p> - -<p id="omeletwithjam094"> -<strong>Omelet with Jam</strong>.—Make a plain <a -href="#sweetomelet094">sweet omelet</a> as directed -above, adding rather less sugar—about half. If you make the -omelet with two ounces of butter, and turn it over, put a -couple of tablespoonfuls of jam on the omelet, and turn the half -over the jam. It is best to put the jam in the oven for a -minute or two to take the chill off. -</p> - -<p> -If you make the omelet with four ounces of butter, you must put the jam by -the side of the omelet and let the thin part of the omelet cover it. Of -course, the question what jam is best for sweet omelet is purely a matter -of taste. Most good judges consider that <a href="#apricotjam164">apricot -jam</a> is the best, and if the sweet omelet itself be flavoured with a -little essence of vanilla, the result is generally considered one of the -nicest sweets that can be sent to table. <a -href="#strawberryjam164">Strawberry jam</a>, especially if some of the -strawberries are whole, is also very nice. The objection to <a -href="#raspberryjam164">raspberry jam</a> is the pips. -</p> - -<p> -A most delicious omelet can be made by chopping up some preserved slices of -pine-apple, and placing this in the omelet, and making the pine-apple syrup -hot and pouring it round the base. <a -href="#redcurrantjelly161">Red-currant jelly</a>, <a -href="#blackcurrantjam164">black-currant jam</a>, and <a -href="#plumjam164">plum jam</a>can all be used. One of the cheapest and, in -the opinion of many, the best sweet omelets can be made with six eggs, two -ounces of butter, and three or four tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade. In -this case it will cost no more to rub a few lumps of sugar on the outside -of an orange, and pound these with the powdered sugar you use to sweeten -the omelet. If the marmalade is liquid, as it often is, one or two -tablespoonfuls of the juice can be poured round the edge of the omelet. -</p> - -<p id="omeletaurhum095"> -<strong>Omelet au Rhum</strong>.—As a rule, spirits are not allowed in -vegetarian cookery. An omelet au rhum is simply a sweet -omelet, plain, with plenty of powdered sugar sprinkled over the -top, with some rum ignited poured over it just before it is sent -to table. The way to ignite the rum is to fill a large spoon, -like a gravy-spoon, and hold a lighted wooden taper (not wax; -it tastes) underneath the spoon till the rum lights. The dish -should be hot. It may be a consolation to teetotallers to -reflect that the fact of burning the rum causes all the alcohol -to evaporate, and there is nothing left but the flavour. -</p> - -<p id="omeletaukirsch095"> -<strong>Omelet au Kirsch</strong>.—Proceed as above, substituting -Kirschenwasser for Rum. -</p> - -<p id="vegetableomelet095"> -<strong>Omelet, Vegetable</strong>.—A <a href="#plainomelet091">plain -omelet</a> can also be served with any purée of vegetables, so that -we can have—Asparagus Omelet, Artichoke Omelet, French Bean Omelet, -Celery Omelet, Spinach Omelet, Mushroom Omelet, Tomato Omelet, &c. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter5">CHAPTER V.</h2> - -<h3>SALADS AND SANDWICHES.</h3> - -<p id="salads096"> -<strong>Salads and Sandwiches.</strong>—Probably the most patriotic -Englishman will admit that, on the subject of salads, we can -learn something from the French. During the last half-century -a great improvement has taken place on this point in -this country. Many years ago it was the fashion to dress an -English lettuce, resembling in shape an old umbrella, with -a mixture of brown sugar, milk, mustard, and even anchovy -and Worcester sauce, and then add a few drops of oil, as if it -were some dangerous poison, like prussic acid, not to be tampered -with lightly. The old-fashioned lettuces were so hard -and crisp that it was difficult to chew them without making a -noise somewhat similar to walking on a shingly beach. In -modern days, however, we have arrived at a stage of civilisation -in which, as a rule, we use soft French lettuces instead -of the hard gingham-shaped vegetables which somehow or -other our grandfathers ate for supper with a whole lobster, -seasoned with about half a pint of vinegar, and then slept -none the worse for the performance. The first point for -consideration, if we wish to have a good salad, is to have -the lettuces crisp and dry. Old-fashioned French cookery-books -direct that the lettuce should never be washed. The -stalks should be cut off, the outside leaves removed and -thrown away, and the lettuce itself should then be pulled in -pieces with the fingers, and each piece wiped with a clean -cloth. This is not always practicable, but the principle remains -the same. You can wash the lettuce leaves without bruising -them. You can dry them by shaking them up lightly in a -large clean cloth, and you can spread them out and let them -get <em>dry</em> an hour or two before they are dressed. -</p> - -<p> -Another important point to be borne in mind is that a -salad should never be dressed till just before it is wanted to -be eaten. If by chance you put by the remains of a dressed -salad, it is good for nothing the next morning. Finally, the -oil must be pure olive oil of the best quality, and to ensure -this it should bear the name of some well-known firm. A -good deal of the oil sold simply as salad oil, bearing no name, -is adulterated, sometimes with cotton-seed oil. -</p> - -<p id="frenchsalad097"> -<strong>Salad, French Lettuce, Plain</strong>.—Clean one or more French -lettuces (throw away all the leaves that are decayed or bruised), -place these in a salad-bowl, and, supposing we have sufficient -for two persons, dress the salad as follows:—Put a saltspoonful -of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper into a tablespoon. Fill -the tablespoon up with oil, stir the pepper and salt up with a -fork, and pour it over the lettuce. Now add another tablespoonful -of oil, and then toss the lettuce leaves lightly together -with a spoon and fork. Allow one tablespoonful of oil to each -person. This salad would suffice for two. Be sure and mix -the lettuce and oil well together before you add any vinegar. -The reason of this is that if you add the vinegar first it would -soak into the lettuce leaves, making one part more acid than -another. Having well mixed up the lettuce and oil, add half -a tablespoonful of vinegar. Mix it once more, and the salad -is dressed. -</p> - -<p> -In France they always add to the lettuce, before it is -dressed, two or three finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves. -Dried tarragon can be used, but it is not equal to fresh. If you -have no tarragon it is a great improvement to use tarragon -vinegar instead of ordinary vinegar. Tarragon vinegar is sold -by all grocers at sixpence per bottle. -</p> - -<p> -It is also often customary to rub the salad-bowl with a bead -of garlic, or rub a piece of crust of bread with garlic, and toss -this piece of crust up with the salad after it has been dressed. -Garlic should never be chopped up, but only used as stated -above. -</p> - -<p> -A good French salad is also always decorated with one or -more <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, cut into quarters, longways. These -are placed on the top of the lettuce. -</p> - -<p id="englishsalad097"> -<strong>Salad, English, Lettuce</strong>.—The ordinary English salad is -made either with French or English lettuces, and is generally -dressed as follows:—One or two tablespoonfuls of cream or -milk, a teaspoonful of made mustard, two tablespoonfuls of -vinegar, pepper, and salt. There are many people still living -in remote parts of the country who prefer this style of -dressing. -</p> - -<p id="mixedsalad098"> -<strong>Salad, English, Mixed</strong>.—The old-fashioned English <em>mixed</em> -salad generally consisted of English lettuce cut up into strips -crossways, to which was added mustard and cress, boiled beetroot, -chopped celery, spring onions, radishes, and watercress. -It is by no means a bad mixture when dressed with oil, and, -of course, it can be dressed it à l’Anglaise. It makes an excellent -accompaniment to a huge hunk of cheese, a crusty loaf, a good -appetite, and a better digestion. -</p> - -<p id="mayonnaisesalad098"> -<strong>Salad, Mayonnaise</strong>.—This is generally considered the -king of salads, and it can be made an exceedingly pretty-looking dish, Take -two or more French lettuces, clean and dry them as directed above, and take -the small heart of one lettuce about the size of a small walnut, uncut from -the stalk, so that you can stand it upright in the middle of the salad, -raised above the surface. Arrange all the softer parts of the leaves on the -top of the salad so as to make as much as possible a smooth surface. Make -some <a href="#mayonnaisesauce053">Mayonnaise sauce</a>, thick enough to be -spread like butter, and mask this little mound and all the surface of the -middle of the salad round it with a thin layer of the sauce, so that it -looks like the top of a mould of solid custard. Ornament the edge of the -salad with <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> cut in -quarters, and place between the quarters slices of pickled gherkins and -stoned olives. Take a small teaspoonful of French capers, dry them on a -cloth, and sprinkle a few of them about an inch apart on the white surface. -Next chop up, very finely, about half a teaspoonful of parsley, and see -that this doesn’t stick together in lumps. Place this on the end of a -knife and flip the knife so that the little green specks of parsley fall on -the white surface. Next take about half a saltspoonful of finely crumbled -bread, and shake these in a saucer with one or two drops of cochineal. This -will colour them a bright red, and they will have all the appearance of -lobster-coral. Place these red bread-crumbs on the end of a knife and let -them fall over the white surface like the parsley. The little red and green -specks on the white background make the dish look exceedingly pretty. -Before mixing the salad all together add a tablespoonful of tarragon -vinegar or lemon-juice. -</p> - -<p id="tomatosalad099"> -<strong>Tomato Salad</strong>.—For making tomato salad you require red, -ripe tomatoes; the smoother they are the better, but the chief -points are—very ripe and very red. Never use those pink, -crinkly tomatoes which look something like milk stained with -plum juice. If tomatoes are picked unripe, and then allowed -to ripen afterwards, they become rotten and worthless. Slice -up half a dozen or more tomatoes—sometimes it will be necessary -to remove the core and pips, sometimes not; add a little -oil, a little vinegar, and some pepper and salt. Tomato salad -is one of the few that are very nice without any oil at all. Of -course, this is a matter of taste. Some persons slice up a few -onions and add to the tomatoes. In addition to this you can -add some slices of cold potatoes. In this latter case, heap the -potatoes up in the middle of the dish in the shape of a dome -sprinkle some chopped parsley over the potatoes, put a border -of sliced onion round the base, and then a border of sliced -tomato outside that. This makes the dish look pretty. -</p> - -<p> -Many persons rub the dish or salad-bowl with a bead of -garlic. This is quite sufficient to flavour the salad; but never -<em>chop</em> garlic for salads. -</p> - -<p id="eggsalad099"> -<strong>Egg Salad</strong>.—Egg salad consists of an ordinary salad -made with French lettuces, with an extra quantity of <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>. If you want to make the -salad look very pretty on the top, cut up the lettuces and dress them with -oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. Make the tops of the lettuces (which -should be placed in a round salad-bowl) as smooth as you can without -pressing them down unnecessarily. Now take six hard-boiled eggs, separate -the yolks from the whites, powder the yolks, and chop up the whites small. -Sprinkle a ring of yellow round the edge of the salad-bowl, say an inch in -width, then put a ring of white round, and place the remainder of yolk in -the middle, almost up to the centre. Have the centre about two inches in -diameter. We now have a yellow centre surrounded by a broad white rim (as, -of course, there is more white than yellow), and an outside yellow ring, -which meets the white china bowl. Reserve about a teaspoonful of pieces of -finely chopped white, and put them in a saucer, with a few drops of -cochineal, and shake them. This turns them a bright red. Sprinkle these red -specks <em>very sparingly</em> on the white, and take about half a -teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, and sprinkle these green specks on -the yellow. This makes the dish look pretty. -</p> - -<p id="germansalad100"> -<strong>German Salad</strong>.—German salad is made from cold boiled -vegetables chopped up. In Germany, it is made, according to -English ideas, from every vegetable you have ever heard of, -mixed with a number of vegetables you have never heard of. -In England it can be made by chopping up boiled carrot, -turnip, cabbage, cauliflower, potato, French beans, Brussels -sprouts (whole), celery, raw onion, raw apple, &c. In fact, in -making this vegetable salad the motto should be “the more -the merrier.” In addition to this you will find that they add -what is known as <em>sauer kraut</em>. This latter is not adapted, as -a rule, to English palates. The salad is mixed with oil and -vinegar in the ordinary way, the Germans adding much more -vinegar than we should care for in this country. The salad -is decorated at the finish with boiled beet-root. It is very -pretty to cut the beet-root into triangles, the base of the -triangle touching the edge of the salad-bowl, the point of the -triangle pointing inwards. Gut a star out of a good slice of -beet-root, and place it in the centre of the bowl; sprinkle a -little chopped blanched parsley over the surface of the mixed -vegetables. -</p> - -<p id="endivesalad100"> -<strong>Endive Salad</strong>.—Endives come into season long before -lettuces, and are much used abroad for making salads. The drawback to -endive is that it is tough, and the simple remedy is to boil it. Take three -or four white-heart endives, throw them into boiling water slightly salted. -When they get tender take them out and instantly throw them into cold -water, by which means you preserve their colour. When quite cold, take them -out again, drain them, dry them thoroughly, and pull them to pieces with -the fingers. Now place them in a salad-bowl, keeping the whitest part as -much as possible at the top. Place some <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> round the edge, and sprinkle -a little chopped blanched parsley over the white endive. You can, if you -like, put a few spikes of red beet-root between the quarters of eggs. -</p> - -<p> -It is a great improvement to rub the salad-bowl with a -bead of garlic, or you can rub a crust of bread with a bead -of garlic, and toss this lightly about in the salad when you -mix it. -</p> - -<p id="salsifysalad101"> -<strong>Salsify Salad</strong>.—Boiled salsify makes a very delicious salad. -Take some white salsify, scrape it, and instantly throw it into -vinegar and water, by which means you will keep it a pure -white. Then, when you have all ready, throw it into boiling -water, slightly salted, boil it till it is tender, throw it into cold -water, and when cold take it out, drain it and dry it, cut it up -into small half-inch pieces (or put it in whole, in sticks, into -a salad-bowl), sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over -the top, dress in the ordinary way with oil and white French -vinegar, and be sure to use white pepper, not black, if white -wine vinegar is objected to, the juice of a hard fresh lemon is -equally good, if not better. -</p> - -<p id="potatosalad101"> -<strong>Potato Salad</strong>.—Potato salad is generally made from the -remains of cold boiled potatoes. Of course, potatoes can be -boiled on purpose, in which case they should be allowed to get -cold in the water in which they were boiled. New potatoes -are far better for the purpose than old. Cut the potatoes into -slices, and place them in a salad-bowl with a little finely chopped -blanched parsley. You can also add some finely chopped onion -or shallot. If you do not add these you can rub the bowl with -a bead of garlic. Sprinkle some more chopped parsley over -the top of the salad and ornament the edge of the bowl with -some thin slices of pickled gherkins. A few stoned olives can -also be added. Dress the salad with oil and vinegar in the -ordinary way. -</p> - -<p id="asparagussalad101"> -<strong>Asparagus Salad</strong>.—Cold asparagus makes a most delicious -salad. It is needless, perhaps, to say it is made from cold -boiled asparagus. The best dressing for asparagus salad is -somewhat peculiar, and is made as follows:—Take, say, an -ounce of butter, put it in a saucer, and melt it in the oven -till it is like oil. Now mix in a teaspoonful of made -mustard, some pepper, salt, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. -Stir it all together, and as it gets cold it will begin to get -thick. Dip all the green part of the asparagus in this, and -lay the heads gently, without breaking them, in a vegetable -dish, with the white stalk resting on the edge of the dish, -and the green part in the middle. Let the salad get perfectly -cold, and then serve. Of course, the sauce clings to -the asparagus. The asparagus is eaten with the fingers like -hot asparagus—a custom now generally recognised. -</p> - -<p id="artichokesalad102"> -<strong>Artichoke Salad</strong>.—This applies to French artichokes, not -Jerusalem. In France, artichokes are often served raw for -breakfast, on a plate, with a little heap of chopped raw -onion and another heap of chopped capers or parsley. The -Frenchman mixes a little oil or vinegar on his plate, adding -the onion, &c., according to his taste. The leaves are pulled -off one by one, the white stalk part dipped in this dressing, -and then eaten, by being drawn through the teeth. The -artichoke bottom is reserved for the finish as a <em>bon bouche</em>, -something like a schoolboy who will eat all the pastry round a -jam tart, leaving the centre for the <em>finale</em>. -</p> - -<p id="beetrootsalad102"> -<strong>Beet-root Salad</strong>.—In boiling beet-roots be careful not to -break them, or else they will bleed and lose their colour. -When the beet-root is boiled and cold, peel it, and cut it -into thin slices. It can be dressed with oil and vinegar, or -vinegar only, adding pepper and salt. Some persons dress -beet-root with a salad-dressing in which cream is used instead -of oil; but never use cream <em>and</em> oil. To mix cream and oil is -like mixing bacon with butter. -</p> - -<p id="cucumbersalad102"> -<strong>Cucumber Salad</strong>.—Peel a cucumber and cut it into slices -as thin as possible. We might almost add, thinner if possible. -Mix it with a little salt, and let it stand, tossing the cucumber -about every now and then. By this means you extract all the -water from the cucumber. Drain off this water, and add -plenty of oil to the cucumber, and then mix it so that every -slice comes in contact with the oil. Now add a little pepper, -and a very little vinegar, and mix it thoroughly. If you add -vinegar to cucumber before the oil some of the slices will taste -like sour pickle, as the vinegar soaks into the cucumber. -Cucumber should be always served very cold, and is best -placed in an ice-chest for an hour before serving. Some people -put a piece of ice on the top of the cucumber. -</p> - -<p id="frenchbeansalad102"> -<strong>French Bean Salad</strong>.—Cold boiled French beans make a -very nice salad. A little chopped parsley should be mixed -with them, and the salad-bowl can be rubbed with a bead of -garlic. Some people soak the beans in vinegar first, and then -add oil. This would suit a German palate. A better plan is -to add the oil first, with pepper and salt, mix all well together, -and then add the vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="broadbeansalad103"> -<strong>Bean Salad</strong>.—Cold boiled broad beans make a very nice -salad. Rub off the skins so that only the green part is put in -the salad-bowl. Rub the bowl with garlic, add a little chopped -parsley, then oil, pepper and salt, mix well, and add vinegar -last of all. -</p> - -<p id="haricotbeansalad103"> -<strong>Haricot Bean Salad</strong>.—This can be made from cold, boiled, -dried white haricot beans. Add plenty of chopped parsley, -rub the bowl with garlic, mix oil, pepper and salt first, vinegar -afterwards. -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p> -The nicest haricot bean salad is made from the fresh green -beans met with abroad. They can be obtained in this country -in tins, and a delicious salad can be had at a moment’s notice -by opening a tin, straining off the liquor, and drying the little -green beans, which are very soft and tender, and dressing them -with oil and vinegar, in the ordinary way. A little chopped -parsley, or garlic flavouring by rubbing the bowl, can be added -or not, according to taste. -</p> - -<p id="celerysalad103"> -<strong>Celery and Beet-root Salad</strong>.—A mixture of celery and -beet-root makes a very nice winter salad. The beet-root, of -course, is boiled, and the celery generally sliced up thin in a -raw state. It is a great improvement to boil the celery till it -is <em>nearly</em> tender. By this means you improve the salad, and -the celery assists in making vegetarian <a href="#stock021">stock</a>. -</p> - -<p id="watercresssalad103"> -<strong>Water-cress</strong>.—Water-cress is sometimes mixed with other -salad, but when eaten alone requires no dressing, but only a -little salt. -</p> - -<p id="dandelionsalad103"> -<strong>Dandelion Leaf Salad</strong>.—Considering that the root of the -dandelion is so largely used in medicine for making taraxacum, -it is to be regretted that the leaves of the plant are not utilised -in this country as they are abroad for making salad. These -leaves can be obtained in London at a few shops in the French -colony of Soho. The leaves are washed, dried, placed in a -salad-bowl, and dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary -way. -</p> - -<p id="cauliflowersalad104"> -<strong>Cauliflower Salad</strong>.—The remains of a cold boiled cauliflower -makes a very good salad if only the white part be used. It -can be mixed with remains of cold potatoes, some chopped -blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the top, and it can -be dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way; or it can -be served up with a sauce made from oiled butter similar to -that described for dressing cold asparagus. -</p> - -<p id="mustardandcresssalad104"> -<strong>Mustard and Cress</strong>.—This is somewhat similar to watercress. -When served alone it is generally dipped in salt and -eaten with bread-and-butter, but it is very useful to mix with -other kinds of salad. -</p> - -<p id="hopsalad104"> -<strong>Hop Salad</strong>.—In Germany a very nice salad is made from -young hops, which are grown very extensively in America and -Germany, as English brewers are well aware. The hops are -picked when quite young, before they get leafy; they are then -boiled till nearly tender. They can be dressed in the English -fashion with oil and vinegar, or in the German fashion with -vinegar and sugar. -</p> - -<p id="onionsalad104"> -<strong>Onion Salad</strong>.—Few people are aware of what an excellent -salad can be made from the remains of cold boiled Spanish -onions. Spanish onions can generally be bought at a penny a -pound. They are mild in flavour, very wholesome, and contain -a great deal of nourishment. Take a couple of cold boiled -Spanish onions, pull them into leaves after they are quite dry, -and dress them with a very little oil and vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="italiansalad104"> -<strong>Italian Salad</strong>.—This is a very delicious salad, met with in -Italy. It consists of a great variety of boiled vegetables, which -are placed in a mould and served in aspic jelly. This latter, -however, is not allowed in vegetarian cookery. A very good -imitation, however, can be made as follows:—First take as -many cold vegetables as you can, consisting of new potatoes, -sliced, and cut up with a cutter into pretty-looking shapes. -You can also take green peas, asparagus tops, cold boiled cauliflower, -French beans, beet-root, &c. These vegetables should -be dressed with a little oil, tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt, -and can be placed in a mould or plain round basin. This -basin can now be filled up with a little water thickened with -corn-flour, hot. When it is cold, it can be turned out and -sent to table in the shape of a mould. -</p> - -<p id="melonsalad105"> -<strong>Melon Salad</strong>.—Melon is sometimes served abroad as a -salad, and a slice of melon is often sent to table at the commencement -of dinner, to be eaten with a little salt, cayenne -pepper, and sometimes oil and vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="sweetsalad105"> -<strong>Salads, Sweet</strong>.—Apples, oranges, currants, pine-apple, and -bananas are sometimes served as salads with syrup and sugar. -They make a very nice mixture, or can be served separately. -When preserved pine-apples in tins are used for the purpose, -the syrup in the tin should be used for dressing the salad. -Whole ripe strawberries are a great improvement, as also a -wineglassful of brandy and a lump of ice. -</p> - -<p id="sandwiches105"> -<strong>Sandwiches</strong>.—There is an art in cutting sandwiches—a -fact which persons in the habit of frequenting railway restaurants -will hardly realise. A tinned loaf is best for the purpose if we -wish to avoid waste. The great thing is to have the two slices -of bread to fit together neatly, and there is no occasion to cut -off the crusts when made from a well-rasped tin loaf. First -cut off the crust from the top of the loaf, which, of course, -must be used for some other purpose. The best use for -this top slice is to toast it lightly on the crumby side, and -cut it up into little pieces to be served with soup. Next -take the loaf, cut off one thin slice, evenly, and let it fall -on its back on the board you are using. Now butter very -slightly the upper surface. Next butter the top of the loaf, -cut another thin slice, and, of course, these two pieces of -bread will be perfectly level, and, if the two buttered sides be -placed together, will fit round the edge exactly. -</p> - -<p id="tomatosandwiches105"> -<strong>Tomato Sandwiches</strong>.—Cut some very ripe red tomatoes -into thin slices, and cut them parallel with the core, as otherwise -you will get them in rings from which the core will drop -out. Sprinkle some thin slices of bread-and-butter with -mustard and cress, dip the slices of tomato into a dressing -made with a little oil, pepper, and salt, well mixed up. Put -these between the bread-and-butter, and cut them into -squares or triangles with a very sharp knife. These sandwiches are very cool and refreshing, and make a most -agreeable supper after a hot and crowded ball-room. If you -wish to have them look pretty, pile them up in the centre of a -silver dish, and place a few ripe red tomatoes round the base -on some bright green parsley. Place the dish in an ice-chest -for an hour before it is eaten. -</p> - -<p id="mustardandcresssandwiches106"> -<strong>Mustard and Cress Sandwiches</strong>.—Place well-washed and -dried mustard and cress between two slices of bread-and-butter, -and trim the edges. It is best to pepper and salt the bread-and-butter -first. Pile up the sandwiches on a silver dish, and -sprinkle some loose mustard and cress round the base. -</p> - -<p id="eggsandwiches106"> -<strong>Egg Sandwiches</strong>.—Cut some <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> into very -thin slices; season them with pepper and salt, and place them -between two slices of thin bread-and-butter; cut the sandwiches -into triangles or squares, pile them up in a silver dish, -place plenty of fresh green parsley round the base of the -dish, and place some hard-boiled eggs, cut in halves, on the -parsley, which will show what the sandwiches are composed -of. -</p> - -<p id="indiansandwiches106"> -<strong>Indian Sandwiches</strong>.—These are exactly similar to the -above, with the addition that the slices of <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> are seasoned with a little -curry-powder. If hard-boiled eggs in halves are placed round the base of -the dish, each half-egg should be sprinkled with curry-powder in order to -show what the sandwiches are. -</p> - -<p id="mushroomsandwiches106"> -<strong>Mushroom Sandwiches</strong>.—Take a pint of fresh button -mushrooms, peel them, and throw them into lemon-juice and -water, in order to preserve their colour; or else take the -contents of a tin of mushrooms, chop them up and stew -them in a frying-pan very gently with a little butter, pepper, -salt, a pinch of thyme, and the juice of a whole lemon to every -pint of mushrooms. When tender, rub the mixture through a -wise sieve while the butter is warm and the mixture moist. -Add a teaspoonful of finely chopped blanched parsley, spread -this mixture while still warm on a thin slice of bread, and -cover it over with another thin slice of bread, and press the -two slices of bread together. When the mixture gets quite -cold, the butter will set and the sandwiches get quite firm. -The bread need not be buttered, as the mixture contains butter -enough. Pile these sandwiches up on a silver dish, surround -the dish with plenty of fresh parsley, and place a few fresh -mushrooms whole, stalk and all, round them, as if they are -growing out of the parsley. -</p> - -<p id="cheesesandwiches107"> -<strong>Cheese Sandwiches</strong>.—Oil a little butter, add some -pepper and salt, and a spoonful of made mustard and a pinch of cayenne -pepper. When this mixture is nearly cold, use it for buttering some thin -slices of bread, and, before it is quite cold, sprinkle them with some -grated Parmesan cheese. Put the two slices of bread together and press -them, and, when cold,. cut them into squares or triangles. Place plenty of -fresh green parsley round the dish, and, if you are using <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> for other purposes, take the -end of the white of egg, which has a little cup in it not much bigger than -the top of the finger, and put a little heap of Parmesan cheese in each -cup. Place a few of these round the base of the dish, on the parsley, in -order to show what the sandwiches are composed of. -</p> - -<p id="creamcheesesandwiches107"> -<strong>Cream-Cheese Sandwiches</strong>.—Chop up some of the white -part of a head of celery very fine, and pound it in a mortar with -a little butter; season it with some salt. Use this mixture and -butter some thin slices of bread, place a thin slice of cream -cheese between these slices, cut the sandwiches into squares -or triangles with a very sharp knife, and pile the sandwiches -up on a silver dish. Surround the dish with parsley, and place -a few slices of cream-cheese, cut round the size of a halfpenny, -round the base, stick a little piece of the yellowish-white leaves -of the heart of celery in each piece. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter6">CHAPTER VI.</h2> - - <h3>SAVOURY DISHES.</h3> - - <h4 id="mushrooms108">MUSHROOMS.</h4> - - <p class="first"> - In many parts of the country mushrooms grow so plentifully that their - cost may be considered almost nothing. On the other hand, if they have - to be bought fresh, at certain seasons of the year they are very - expensive, while tinned mushrooms, which can always be depended upon, - cannot be regarded in any other light than that of a luxury. - </p> - - <p> - When mushrooms can be gathered in the fields like black-berries - they are a great boon to vegetarians. Of course, great - care must be taken that only genuine mushrooms are picked, - as there have been some terrible instances of poisoning from - fungi being gathered by mistake, as many Cockney tourists - know to their cost. As a rule, in England all mushrooms - bought in markets can be depended upon. In France, where - mushrooms are very plentiful, an inspector is appointed in - every market, and no mushrooms are allowed to be sold unless - they have first received his sanction. This is a wise precaution - in the right direction. - </p> - - <p> - One important word of warning before leaving the subject. - Mushrooms should be eaten <em>freshly gathered</em>, and, if allowed to - get stale, those which were perfectly wholesome when fresh - picked become absolutely poisonous. The symptoms are somewhat - similar to narcotic poisoning. This particularly applies - to the larger and coarser kind that give out black juice. - </p> - - <p id="plainmushrooms108"> - <strong>Mushrooms, Plain, Grilled</strong>.—The larger kinds of mushrooms - are best for the purpose. The flat mushrooms should be - washed, dried, and peeled. They are then cooked slowly over a - clear fire, and a small wire gridiron, like those sold at a penny - or twopence each, is better adapted for the purpose than the - ordinary gridiron used for grilling steak. The gridiron should - be kept high above the fire. The mushrooms should be dipped - in oil, or oiled butter, and care should be taken that they do not - stick to the bars. They should be served very hot, with pepper - and salt and a squeeze of lemon-juice. - </p> - - <p id="friedmushrooms109"> - <strong>Mushrooms, Fried</strong>.—When mushrooms are very small they - are more easily fried than grilled. They should be washed, - dried and peeled, placed in a frying-pan, with a little butter, - pepper and salt, and cooked till tender. They are very nice - served on toast, and the butter in which they are cooked can - be poured on the toast first, and the mushrooms arranged on - the top afterwards. A squeeze of lemon-juice is an improvement. - </p> - - <p id="mushroomsaugratin109"> - <strong>Mushrooms au gratin</strong>.—This is a very delicious dish, and - is often served as an entrée at first-class dinners. They are - made from what are known as cup mushrooms. It is best to - pick mushrooms, as far as possible, the same size, the cup - being about two inches in diameter. Peel the mushrooms very - carefully, without breaking them, cut out the stalks close down - with a spoon, scoop out the inside of the cup, so as to make it - hollow. Now peel the stalks and chop them up with all the - scooped part of the mushroom, with, supposing we are making - ten cups, a piece of onion as big as the top of the thumb down - to the first joint. To this add a brimming teaspoonful of - chopped parsley, or even a little more, a saltspoonful of dried - thyme, or half this quantity of fresh thyme. Fry all this in - a frying-pan, in a little butter. The aroma is delicious. Then - add sufficient dried bread-crumbs that have been rubbed - through a wire sieve to make the whole into a moist paste, - fill each of the cups with this mixture so that the top - is as convex as the cup of the mushroom, having first - seasoned the mixture with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. - Shake some fine bread-raspings over the top so as to - make them of a nice golden-brown colour, pour a little drop of - oil into a baking-tin, place the mushrooms in it, and bake them - gently in an oven till the cup part of the mushroom becomes - soft and tender, but take care they do not cook till they break. - Now take them out carefully with an egg-slice, and place them - on a dish—a silver dish is best for the purpose-and place some - nice, crisp, fried parsley round the edge. - </p> - - <p id="mushroomsalabordelaise110"> - <strong>Mushrooms à la Bordelaise</strong>.—This, as the - name implies, is a French recipe. It consists of ordinary <a - href="#plainmushrooms108">grilled mushrooms</a>, served in a sauce - composed of oil or oiled butter, chopped up with parsley and garlic, - thickened with the yolks of eggs. - </p> - - <p id="mushroomsalaprovencale110"> - <strong>Mushrooms à la Provençale</strong>.—This is an Italian recipe. - You must first wash, peel, and dry the mushrooms, and then - soak them for some time in what is called a <em>marinade</em>, which is - another word for pickle, of oil mixed with chopped garlic, - pepper, and salt. They are then stewed in oil with plenty of - chopped parsley over rather a brisk fire. Squeeze, a little - lemon-juice over them and serve them in a dish surrounded - with a little fried or toasted bread. - </p> - - <p id="mushroomforcemeat110"> - <strong>Mushroom Forcemeat</strong>.—The mushrooms after being - cleaned should be chopped up and fried in a little butter; lemon-juice - should be added before they are chopped in order to preserve their - colour. One or two <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled yolks of - eggs</a> can be added to the mixture, and the whole rubbed through a - wire sieve while hot. When the mixture is hot it should be moist, but, - of course, when it gets cold, owing to the butter it will be hard. This - mushroom forcemeat can be used for a variety of purposes. - </p> - - <p id="mushroompie110"> - <strong>Mushroom Pie</strong>.—Wash, dry, and peel some mushrooms, - and cut them into slices with an equal quantity of cut-up - potatoes. Bake these in a pie, having first moistened the potatoes - and mushrooms in a little butter. Add pepper and salt - and a small pinch of thyme. Cover them with a little water - and put some paste over the dish in the ordinary way. It is a - great improvement, after the pie is baked, to pour in some - essence of mushrooms made from stewing the stalks and peelings - in a little water. A single onion should be put in with - them. - </p> - - <p id="coldmushroompie110"> - <strong>Mushroom Pie, Cold</strong>.—Prepare the mushrooms, potatoes, - and essence of mushroom as directed above, adding a little - chopped parsley. Bake all these in the dish before you cover - with paste, add also an extra seasoning of pepper. When the - mushrooms and potatoes are perfectly tender, strain off all - the juice or gravy, and thicken it with corn-flour; put this - back in the pie-dish and mix all well together, and pile it up in - the middle of the dish so that the centre is raised above the - edge. Let this get quite cold, then cover it with puff-paste, - and as soon as the pastry is done take it out of the oven and - let the pie get cold. This can now be cut in slices. - </p> - - <p id="mushroompudding111"> - <strong>Mushroom Pudding</strong>.—Make a mixture of mushrooms, - potatoes, &c., exactly similar to that for making a pie. Place - this in a basin with only sufficient water to moisten the ingredients, - cover the basin with bread-crumbs soaked in milk, - and steam the basin in the ordinary way. - </p> - - <p id="grilledtomatoes111"> - <strong>Tomatoes, Grilled</strong>.— What is necessary is a clear - fire and a gridiron in which the bars are not too far apart. The - disputed point is, should the tomatoes be grilled whole or cut in half? - This may be considered a matter of taste, but personally we prefer them - grilled whole. Moisten the tomato in a little oil or oiled butter, and - grill them carefully, as they are apt to break. Grilled tomatoes are - very nice with plain boiled <a href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a>, or can - be served up on <a href="#boiledrice061">boiled rice</a>. - </p> - - <p id="bakedtomatoes111"> - <strong>Tomatoes, Baked</strong>.—Place the tomatoes in a tin - with a little butter, and occasionally baste them with the butter. When - they are tender, they can be served either plain or with boiled <a - href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a> or <a href="#boiledrice061">rice</a>. - The butter and juice in the tin should be poured over them. - </p> - - <p id="friedtomatoes111"> - <strong>Tomatoes, Fried</strong>.—Place the tomatoes in a - frying-pan with a little butter, and fry them until they are tender. - Pour the contents of the frying-pan over them, serve plain, or with - <a href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a> or <a href="#boiledrice061">rice</a>. - </p> - - <p id="stewedtomatoes111"> - <strong>Tomatoes, Stewed</strong>.—Take half a dozen good-sized - tomatoes, and chop up very finely one onion about the same size as the - tomatoes. Moisten the bottom of a stew-pan with a little butter, and - sprinkle the chopped onion over the tomatoes. Add a dessertspoonful of - water; place the lid on the stewpan, which ought to fit tightly. It is - best to put a weight on the lid of the stew-pan, such as a flat-iron. - Place the stew-pan on the fire, and let them steam till they are - tender. They are cooked this way in Spain and Portugal, and very often - chopped garlic is used instead of onion. - </p> - - <p id="tomatoesaugratin111"> - <strong>Tomatoes au gratin</strong>.—Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, - cut off the stalks, and squeeze out time juice and pips. Next take a - few mushrooms and make a mixture exactly similar to that which was used - to fill the inside of <a href="#mushroomsaugratin109">Mushrooms au - gratin</a>. Fill each tomato with some of this mixture, so that it - assumes its original shape and tight skin. The top or hole where the - stalk was cut out will probably be about the size of a shilling or - halfpenny. Shake some bright-coloured bread raspings over this spot - without letting them fall on the red tomato. In order to do this, cut a - round hole the right size in a stiff piece of paper. Place the tomatoes - in a stew-pan or a baking-dish in the oven, moistened with a little - oil. The oil should be about the eighth of an inch deep. Stew or bake - the tomatoes till they are tender, and then take them out carefully - with an egg-slice, and serve them surrounded with fried parsley. If - placed in a silver dish this has a very pretty appearance. - </p> - - <p id="tomatopie112"> - <strong>Tomato Pie</strong>.—Slice up an equal number of ripe tomatoes - and potatoes. Place them in a pie-dish with enough oiled - butter to moisten them. Add a brimming teaspoonful of - chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, pepper, and salts and, if - possible, a few peeled mushrooms, which will be found to be a - very great improvement. Cover the pie with paste, and bake - in the oven. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>Tomato Pie (another way)</strong>.—Proceed as in making an - ordinary potato pie. Add a small bottle of tomato conserve, - cover with paste, and bake in the ordinary way. - </p> - - <p id="potatopie112"> - <strong>Potato Pie</strong>.—Peel and slice up some potatoes as thin as - possible. At the same time slice up some onions. If Spanish - onions are used allow equal quantities of potatoes and onions, - but if ordinary onions are used allow only half this quantity. - Place a layer of sliced onion and sliced potato alternately. Add - some pepper, salt, and sufficient butter to moisten the potato - and butter before any water is added. Pour in some water - and add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, cover the pie with - paste, and bake in the ordinary way. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>Potato Pie (another way)</strong>.—Butter a shallow - pie-dish rather thickly. Line the edges with a good crust, and then - fill the pie with mashed potatoes seasoned with pepper, salt, and - grated nutmeg. Lay over them some small lumps of butter, <a - href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, blanched almonds, - sliced dates, sliced lemon and candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry - and bake the pie in a well-heated oven for half an hour or more, - according to the size of the pie. - </p> - - <p id="pumpkinpie113"> - <strong>Pumpkin Pie</strong>.—Peel a ripe pumpkin and chip off the rind - or skin, halve it, and take out the seed and fluffy part in the - centre, which throw away. Cut the pumpkin into small, thin - slices, fill a pie-dish therewith, add to it half a teaspoonful of - allspice and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a small quantity of - water. Cover with a nice light paste and bake in the ordinary - way. Pumpkin pie is greatly unproved by being eaten with - Devonshire cream and sugar. An equal quantity of apples - with the pumpkin will make a still more delicious pie. - </p> - - <p id="pumpkinpudding113"> - <strong>Pumpkin Pudding</strong>.—Take a large pumpkin, pare it, and - remove the seeds. Cut half of it into thin slices, and boil these - gently in water until they are quite soft, then rub them through - a fine sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Measure the - pulp, and with each pint put four ounces of butter and a large - nutmeg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, - then add the third of a pint of hot milk and four well-beaten - eggs. Pour the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a - moderate oven for about an hour. Sugar may be added to taste. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>Potato Cheesecake</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a - href="#potatocheesecake169">CHEESECAKES</a>.) - </p> - - <p id="cheeseandfriedbread113"> - <strong>Cheese with Fried Bread</strong>.—Take some stale bread, and cut - it into strips about three inches long and one wide and one - inch thick. Fry the bread in some butter or oil till it is a - nice bright golden colour. Spread a layer of made mustard - over the strips of fried bread, and then cover them with grated - Parmesan cheese, pile them up on a dish, and place them in the - oven. As soon as the cheese begins to melt serve them very hot. - </p> - - <p id="cheesesavoury113"> - <strong>Cheese, Savoury</strong>.—Take equal quantities of grated Parmesan - cheese, butter, and flour; add a little salt and cayenne - pepper, make these into a paste with some water, roll out the - paste thin till it is about a quarter of an inch thick; cut it - into strips and bake them in the oven till they are a nice - brown, and serve hot. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>Cheese Soufflé</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a - href="#cheesesouffle092">OMELETS</a>.) - </p> - - <p id="cheesepudding114"> - <strong>Cheese Pudding.</strong>—Mix half a pound of grated Parmesan - cheese with four eggs, well beaten up; mix in also two ounces - of butter, which should be first beaten to a cream, add half a - pint of milk and pour the mixture into a well-buttered pie-dish, - sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese over the top, and bake in - the oven for about half an hour. The pudding will be lighter if - two of the whites of eggs are beaten to a stiff froth. The edge of - the pie-dish can be lined with puff-paste. - </p> - - <p id="cheeseramequins114"> - <strong>Cheese Ramequins.</strong>—Put half a pound of grated Parmesan - cheese in a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter and a - quarter of a pint of water; add a little pepper and salt, and as - much flour as will make the whole into a thick paste. Mix up - with the paste as many well-beaten-up eggs as will make the - paste not too liquid to be moulded into a shape. The eggs - should be beaten till they froth. Now, with a tablespoon, - mould this mixture into shapes like a meringue or egg; place - these on a buttered tin and bake them till they are a nice - brown colour. - </p> - - <p id="stewedcheese114"> - <strong>Cheese, Stewed.</strong>—When the remains of cheese have got very - dry it is a good plan to use it up in the shape of stewed cheese. - Break up the cheese and put it in a small stew-pan with about - a quarter its weight of butter; add a little milk, and let the - cheese stew gently till it is dissolved. At the finish, and when - you have removed it from the fire, add a well-beaten-up egg. - This can be served on toast, or it can be poured on to a dish - and pieces of toasted bread stuck in it. - </p> - - <p id="cheesestraws114"> - <strong>Cheese Straws.</strong>—Mix equal quantities of grated Parmesan - cheese, grated bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a - wire sieve, butter, and flour; add a little cayenne and grated - nutmeg. Make it into a thick paste, roll it out very thin, cut - it into strips, and bake for a few minutes in a fierce oven. - </p> - - <p id="toastedcheese114"> - <strong>Cheese, Toasted.</strong>—This is best done in a Dutch oven, so - that when one side is toasted you can turn the oven and toast - the back; as soon as the cheese begins to melt it is done. As - it gets cold very quickly, and when cold gets hard, it is best - served on hot-water plates. - </p> - - <p id="devilledcheese114"> - <strong>Cheese, Devilled.</strong>—Chop up some hot pickles, add some - cayenne pepper and mustard. Melt some cheese in a stew-pan - with a little butter, mix in the pickles, and serve on toast. - </p> - - <p id="welshrarebit115"> - <strong>Welsh Rarebit.</strong>—Toast a large slice of bread; in the meantime - melt some cheese in the saucepan with a little butter. - When the cheese is melted it will be found that a good deal of - oiled butter floats on the top. Pour this over the dry toast - first, and then pour the melted cheese afterwards. Some - persons add a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce to the cheese, - and others a tablespoonful of good old Burton ale over - the top. - </p> - - <p id="ayoli115"> - <strong>Ayoli.</strong>—This is a dish almost peculiar to the South of - France. Soak some crusts of bread in water, squeeze them - dry, and add two cloves of garlic chopped fine, six blanched - almonds, also chopped very fine, and a yolk of an egg; mix up - the whole into a smooth paste with a little oil. - </p> - - <p id="pumpkinalaparmesane115"> - <strong>Pumpkin à la Parmesane.</strong>—Cut a large pumpkin into - square pieces and boil them for about a quarter of an hour in - salt and water, and take them out, drain them, and put them - in a stew-pan with a little butter, salt, and grated nutmeg; - fry them, sprinkle them with a little Parmesan cheese, and - bake them for a short time in the oven till the cheese begins to - melt, and then serve. This is an Italian recipe. - </p> - - <p id="zuchettifarcis115"> - <strong>Zucchetti farcis.</strong>—Take some very small gourds or - pumpkins, boil them for about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, - and then fill them with a forcemeat made as follows: Take some crumb of - bread and soak it in milk, squeeze it and add the yolks of two <a - href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a> and two raw yolks; chop - up very finely half a dozen blanched almonds with a couple of cloves; - add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little salt and grated - nutmeg. Stew these gourds in butter and serve them with <a - href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>. - </p> - - <p id="stuffedonions115"> - <strong>Stuffed Onions (Italian fashion).</strong>—Parboil some large - onions, stamp out the core after they have been allowed to - get quite cold in a little water; fill the inside with forcemeat - similar to the above; fry then), squeeze the juice of a lemon - over them, with a little pepper. - </p> - - <p id="polenta115"> - <strong>Polenta.</strong>—Polenta is made from ground Indian corn, and is - seen in Italian shop-windows in the form of a yellow powder; - it is made into a paste with boiling water, sprinkled with Parmesan - cheese, and baked in the oven. - </p> - - <p id="piroskisernikis116"> - <strong>Piroski Sernikis.</strong>—This dish is met with in Poland, and is - made by mixing up two pounds of cream-cheese, three-quarters - of a pound of fine bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through - a wire sieve, six eggs well beaten up; add a little cream or - milk, four ounces of washed grocer’s currants, one ounce of - sugar, half a grated nutmeg; and when the whole is thoroughly - mixed add as much flour as is necessary to make the whole - into a paste that can be rolled into balls. These balls should - not be much bigger than a walnut. Flour them, and then - flatten them into little cakes and fry them a nice brown in - some butter. - </p> - - <p> - Of course, a smaller quantity can be made by using these - ingredients in proportion. - </p> - - <p id="nalesnikis116"> - <strong>Nalesnikis (Polish Pancakes).</strong>—Take eight eggs and beat - them up very thoroughly with about a pint and a half of milk, - or still better, cream, two ounces of butter that has been oiled, - half a grated nutmeg, and about a dozen lumps of sugar that - have been rubbed on the outside of a lemon; mix in sufficient - flour—about three-quarters of a pound will be required—to - make the whole into a very smooth batter. Melt a little butter - in a frying-pan, pour it all over the pan, and when it frizzles, - pour in some of the batter, and sprinkle over a few currants; - when the pancake is fried, shake some powdered sugar over it, - roll it up like an ordinary pancake, and serve hot. - </p> - -<h4 id="fritters116">FRITTERS.</h4> - -<p id="fritterbatter116"> -<strong>Batter for Savoury Fritters.</strong>—Put six ounces of flour into -a basin, with a pinch of salt, the yolk of one egg, and a quarter -of a pint of warm water. Work this round and round with a -wooden spoon till it is perfectly smooth and looks like thick -cream. About half an hour before the batter is wanted for -use whip the white of one egg to a stiff froth and mix it -lightly in. -</p> - -<p id="mushroomfritters116"> -<strong>Mushroom Fritters.</strong>—Make some <a -href="#mushroomforcemeat110">mushroom forcemeat</a>; let -it get quite cold on a dish about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out some -small rounds, about the size of a penny-piece. They fry better if slightly -oval. Have ready some thick batter (<em>See</em> <a -href="#fritterbatter116">BATTER</a>). Have also ready in a saucepan some -boiling oil, which should be heated to about 350°. Place a -frying-basket in the saucepan, flour the rounds of mushroom forcemeat so as -to make them perfectly dry on the outside. Dip these pieces into the batter -and throw them into the boiling oil. The great heat of the oil will set the -batter before the mushroom forcemeat has time to melt. Directly the batter -is a nice light-brown colour, lift them out of the boiling oil with the -frying-basket, and throw them on to a cloth to drain. Break off the outside -pieces of batter, and serve the fritters on a neatly folded napkin on a -dish surrounded by fried parsley. -</p> - -<p> -The beauty of these fritters is that when they are eaten the -inside is moist, owing, of course, to the heat having melted the -forcemeat. -</p> - -<p id="tomatofritters117"> -<strong>Tomato Fritters</strong>.—Make some <a -href="#mushroomforcemeat110">mushroom forcemeat</a> and spread it out as -thin as possible. Take some ripe tomatoes, cut them in slices, dip the -slice in vinegar, drain it and pepper it, and then wrap this thin slice of -tomato in a layer of mushroom forcemeat. Bring the edges together, flour -it, dip it into batter (<em>see</em> <a -href="#fritterbatter116">BATTER</a>), and throw it into boiling oil as in -making mushroom fritters (<em>see</em> <a -href="#mushroomfritters116">MUSHROOM FRITTERS</a>). -</p> - -<p id="gamefritters117"> -<strong>Imitation Game Fritters</strong>.—Make some mushroom -forcemeat as directed under the heading “<a -href="#mushroomforcemeat110">Mushroom Forcemeat</a>,” -with the addition of, when you fry the mushrooms, chop up and fry with them -two heads of garlic, and add a saltspoonful of <a -href="#herbaciousmixture032">aromatic flavouring herbs</a>. -(These, are sold in bottles by all grocers under the name of -“Herbaceous Mixture.”) Then proceed exactly as if you were -making mushroom fritters (<em>see</em> <a -href="#mushroomfritters116">MUSHROOM FRITTERS</a>). -</p> - -<p id="hominyfritters117"> -<strong>Hominy Fritters</strong>.—These are made from remains of cold -boiled hominy, cut in thin slices, which must be dipped in -batter and fried in boiling oil. -</p> - -<p id="cheesefritters117"> -<strong>Cheese Fritters</strong>.—Pound some dry cheese, or take about -three ounces of Parmesan cheese, and mix it with a few -bread-crumbs, a piece of butter, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and -the yolk of an egg, till the whole becomes a thick paste. Roll -the mixture into very small balls, flatten them, flour them, dip -them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil in the -ordinary way. Put them in the oven for five minutes before -serving them. -</p> - -<p id="sageandonionfritters118"> -<strong>Sage and Onion Fritters.</strong>—Make some ordinary sage and -onion stuffing, allowing one fresh sage leaf or two dried to -each parboiled onion; add pepper and salt and dried breadcrumbs. -Now moisten the whole with clarified butter, till the -mixture becomes a moist pulp. When it begins to get cold and -sets, roll it into small balls, the size of a very small walnut, -flatten these and let them get quite cold, then flour them, dip -them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil; remove them -with the frying-basket, and serve with fried parsley. -</p> - -<p id="spinachfritters118"> -<strong>Spinach Fritters.</strong>—Make a little thick purée -of spinach, add a pinch of savoury herbs containing marjoram; mix in a -little clarified butter and one or two lumps of sugar rubbed on the outside -of a lemon, as well as a little grated nutmeg. Roll the mixture into very -small ball; or else they will break, flatten them, flour them, dip them -into batter, and throw them into boiling oil, and serve immediately. -</p> - -<p id="sweetfritters118"> -<strong>Fritters, Sweet.</strong>—In making sweet fritters, the same kind -of batter will do as we used for making savoury fritters, though -many cooks add a little powdered sugar. The same principles -hold good. The oil must be heated to a temperature of 350∞, and -a frying-basket must be used. Instead of flouring the substances -employed to make them dry, before being dipped into the batter, -which is an essential point in making fritters, we must use finely -powdered sugar, and it will be found a saving of both time and -trouble to buy pounded sugar for the purpose. It is sold by -grocers under the name of castor sugar. We cannot make this -at home in a pestle and mortar to the same degree of fineness -any more than we could grind our own flour. We cannot compete -with machinery. -</p> - -<p id="applefritters118"> -<strong>Apple Fritters.</strong>—Peel some apples, cut them in slices -across the core, and stamp out the core. It is customary, -where wine, &c., is not objected to, to soak these rings of -apples for several hours in a mixture of brandy, grated lemon -or orange peel and sugar, or better still, to rub some lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon or orange and dissolve this -in the brandy. Of course, brandy is not necessary, but the -custom is worth mentioning. The rings of apple can be -soaked for some time in syrup flavoured this way. They must -then be made dry by being dipped in powdered sugar, then -dipped into batter and thrown, one at a time, into a saucepan -containing smoking hot oil in which a wire frying-basket has -been placed. Directly the fritters are a nice brown, take them -out, break off the rough pieces, shake some finely powdered -sugar over them, pile them up on a dish, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="apricotfritters119"> -<strong>Apricot Fritters.</strong>—These can be made from fresh apricots or -tinned ones, not too ripe; if they break they are not fitted. When -made from fresh apricots they should be peeled, cut in halves, the -round end removed, dipped in powdered sugar, then dipped in -batter, thrown into boiling oil, and finished like apple fritters. -Some persons soak the apricots in brandy. -</p> - -<p id="bananafritters119"> -<strong>Banana Fritters.</strong>—Banana fritters can be made from the -bananas as sold in this country, and it is a mistake to think -that when they are black outside they are bad. When in -this state they are sometimes sold as cheap as six a penny. -Peel the bananas, cut them into slices half an inch thick, dip -them into finely powdered sugar and then into batter, and -finish as directed in apple fritters. -</p> - -<p> -Some persons soak the slices of banana in maraschino. -</p> - -<p id="custardfritters119"> -<strong>Custard Fritters.</strong>—Take half a pint of cream in which some -cinnamon and lemon have been boiled, add to this five yolks of -eggs, a little flour, and about three ounces of sugar. Put this -into a pie-dish, well buttered, and steam it till the custard -becomes quite set; then let it get cold, and cut it into slices -about half an inch thick and an inch and a half long, sprinkle -each piece with a little powdered cinnamon, and make it quite -dry with some powdered sugar. Then dip each piece into -batter, throw them one by one into boiling oil, and finish as -directed for <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p id="variousfritters119"> -<strong>Almond Fritters, Chocolate Fritters, Coffee Fritters, -Vanilla Fritters, &c.</strong>—These fritters are made exactly in -the same way as custard fritters, only substituting powdered -chocolate, pounded almonds, essence of coffee, or essence of -vanilla, for the powdered cinnamon. -</p> - -<p id="frangipanefritters120"> -<strong>Frangipane Fritters.</strong>—Make a Frangipane cream by -mixing eggs with a little cold potato, butter, sugar, and powdered -ratafias, the proportion being a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, -six ounces of sugar, one cold floury potato, and a quarter of a pound of -ratafias. Bake or steam this until it is set, and proceed as in <a -href="#custardfritters119">custard fritters</a>. Many persons add the -flavouring of a little rum. -</p> - -<p id="peachfritters120"> -<strong>Peach Fritters.</strong>—These are made exactly similar to apricot -fritters, bearing in mind that if they are made from tinned -peaches only the firm pieces, and not pulpy ones, must be used -for the purpose. Proceed exactly as directed for <a -href="#apricotfritters119">apricot -fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p> -If any liqueur is used, noyeau is best adapted for the -purpose. -</p> - -<p id="potatofritters120"> -<strong>Potato Fritters.</strong>—Mix up some floury potato with a quarter -of a pound of butter, a well-beaten-up egg, and three ounces of -sugar, some of which has been rubbed on the outside of a lemon. -The addition of a little cream is a great improvement. Roll -the mixture into small balls and flour them; they are then -fried just as they are, without being dipped into batter. -</p> - -<p id="pineapplefritters120"> -<strong>Pine-apple Fritters.</strong>—These can be made from fresh -pine-apples or tinned. They should be cut into slices like apple fritters -if the pine-apple is small, but if the pine-apple is large they can be cut -into strips three inches long and one wide and half an inch thick. These -must be dipped in powdered sugar, then into batter, and finished as -directed for <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p> -If any liqueur is used, maraschino is best adapted to the -purpose. -</p> - -<p id="orangefritters120"> -<strong>Orange Fritters.</strong>—Only first-class oranges are adapted for -this purpose. Thick-skinned and woolly oranges are no use. -Peel a thin-skinned ripe orange, divide each orange into about -six pieces, soak these in a syrup flavoured with sugar rubbed -on the outside of an orange, and if liqueur is used make the -syrup with brandy. After they have soaked some time, remove -any pips, dip each piece into hatter, and proceed as -directed for <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p id="creamfritters120"> -<strong>Cream Fritters.</strong>—Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside -of an orange, pound them, and mix with a little cream; take -some small pieces of stale white cake, such as Madeira cake -or what the French call brioche. Soak these pieces of stale -cake, which must be cut small and thin, or they will break, in -the orange-flavoured cream, dry each piece in some finely-powdered -sugar, dip it into batter, and proceed as directed for -making <a href="#applefritters118">apple fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p id="germanfritters121"> -<strong>German Fritters.</strong>—Take some small stale pieces of cake, -and soak them in a little milk or cream flavoured with essence -of vanilla and sweetened with a little sugar. Take them out, -and let them get a little dry on the outside, then dip them in a -well-beaten-up egg, cover them with bread-crumbs, and fry a -nice golden-brown colour. -</p> - -<p id="riceandgingerfritters121"> -<strong>Rice and Ginger Fritters.</strong>—Boil a small quantity of -rice in milk and add some preserved ginger chopped small, some sugar, and -one or more eggs, sufficient to set the mixture when baked in a pie-dish. -Bake till set, then cut into slices about two inches long, an inch wide, -and half an inch thick; dry these pieces with powdered sugar, dip into -batter, and finish as directed for making <a href="#applefritters118">apple -fritters</a>. -</p> - -<p id="ricefritters121"> -<strong>Rice Fritters.</strong>—A variety of fritters could be made -from a small baked rice pudding, flavoured with various kinds of essences, -spices, orange marmalade, peach marmalade, fresh lime marmalade, <a -href="#apricotjam164">apricot -jam</a>, &c., proceeding exactly as directed above. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter7">CHAPTER VII.</h2> - - <h3>VEGETABLES.</h3> - - <h4>SUBSTANTIAL VEGETABLES.</h4> - -<p class="first"> -Vegetables may be roughly divided into two classes—those -that may be called substantial and which are adapted to form -a meal in themselves, and those of a lighter kind, which cannot -be said to make a sufficient repast unless eaten with bread. -</p> - -<p> -Potatoes were first introduced into this country about 400 -years ago, tobacco being introduced about the same period, -and we cannot disguise the fact that there are many who regard -the latter as the greater blessing of the two. If Sir Henry -Thompson is right in stating that tobacco is the great ally of -temperance, there may be some ground for this opinion. -</p> - -<p> -Potatoes form an important article of food for the body, -while, whatever effect tobacco may have upon the thinking -powers of mankind, it is almost the only product of -the vegetable kingdom that is absolutely uneatable even -when placed within the reach of those in the last stage of -starvation. -</p> - -<p> -In some parts, especially in Ireland, potatoes form almost -the only food of the population, just as rice does in hotter -climates, and when the crop fails famine ensues. When -potatoes form the only kind of food, a very large quantity has -to be eaten by a hard-working man in order for him to receive -sufficient nourishment to keep his body healthy, the amount -required being not less than ten pounds per day. If, on the -other hand, a certain amount of fat or oil of some kind be -mixed with them, a far less quantity will suffice. Hence we -find in Ireland that, wherever it is possible, either some kind -of oily fish, such as herring, is taken with them, or, which is -much more to the point with vegetarians, a certain quantity -of fat is obtained in the shape of milk. -</p> - -<p> -It must also be remembered that four pounds of raw -potatoes contain only one pound of solid food, the remaining -three pounds being water. It is important, for those who first -commence a vegetarian diet, to remember that vegetables like -peas, haricot beans, and lentils are far superior to potatoes so far -as nourishment is concerned, for many are apt to jump to the -conclusion that potatoes are the very best substitute for bread -and milk. So, too, is oatmeal. A Scotchman requires a -far less quantity of oatmeal to sustain life than an Irishman -does potatoes; hence it is a very important point to remember -that, if we depend upon potatoes to any great extent for our -daily food, we should cook them in such a manner as to -entail as little waste as possible. We will now try and -explain, as briefly as possible, the best method of serving. -</p> - -<p id="plainboiledpotatoes123"> -<strong>Potatoes, Plain Boiled.</strong>—The best method of having -potatoes, if we wish to study economy, is to boil them in their -jackets, as it is generally admitted that the most nourishing -part is that which lies nearest to the skin. There are many -houses in the country where an inexperienced cook will peel, -say four pounds of potatoes, and throw the peel into the -pig-tub, where the pig gets a better meal than the family. -</p> - -<p> -When potatoes are boiled in their skins, they should be -thoroughly washed and scrubbed with a hard brush. Old -potatoes should be put into cold water, and when the water -boils the time should a good deal depend upon the size of the -potatoes. When the potatoes are large, the chief principle to -be borne in mind is, do not let them boil too quickly or cook -too quickly. We must avoid having the outside pulpy while -the inside is hard. The water, which should be slightly salted, -should more than cover them, and, if the potatoes are very -large, directly the water comes to the boil it is a good plan to -throw in a little cold water to take it off the boil. It is quite -impossible to lay down any exact law in regard to boiling -potatoes. We cannot do more than give general principles -which can only be carried out by cooks who possess a little -common sense. -</p> - -<p> -Small new potatoes are an extreme in one direction. -They should be thrown into boiling water, and are generally -cooked in about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. Large -old potatoes should be put into cold water and, as we have -stated, the water should not be allowed to boil too soon, and -it will take very often an hour to boil them properly. Between -these two extremes there is a gradually ascending scale which -must be left to the judgment of the cook. It is as impossible -to lay down any hard-and-fast line with regard to time in -boiling potatoes as it would be to say at what exact point in -the thermometer between freezing and 80∞ in the shade a man -should put on his top coat. -</p> - -<p> -If we may be allowed the expression, “old new” potatoes -should be thrown into neither boiling water nor cold water, -but lukewarm water. Again, in boiling potatoes, especially -in the case of old ones, some little allowance must be made -for the time of year. In winter, they require longer time, -and we may here mention the fact that it is very important -that potatoes, after they are dug, should not be left out of -doors and exposed to a hard frost, as in this case a chemical -change takes place in which the starch is converted into -sugar. -</p> - -<p> -When potatoes are boiled in their jackets sufficiently, -which fact is generally tested by sticking a steel fork into -them, they should be strained off, and allowed to get dry for -a few minutes in the saucepan, which should be removed from -the fire, as at times the potatoes are apt to stick and burn. -</p> - -<p> -When large potatoes are peeled before they are boiled, we -should endeavour to send them to table floury, and this is -often said to be the test of a really good cook. After the -water has been strained off from the potatoes, a dry cloth -should be placed under the lid of the saucepan, and the lid -should only be placed half on, <em>i.e.</em>, it should not be fitted down -tight. It is also as well to give the saucepan now and then a -shake, but do not overdo the shaking and break them. About -five or ten minutes is generally sufficient. -</p> - -<p id="steamedpotatoes124"> -<strong>Potatoes, Steamed.</strong>—Potatoes can be steamed in their -jackets, and it is a more economical method than peeling. It -should be remembered, however, that steam is hotter than -boiling water. If plain water is underneath and boils -furiously, and the steam is well shut in, they will cook very -quickly; but if, as is generally the case, something else is in -the saucepan under the steamer, boiling gently, this does not -apply. We refer to the ordinary steamer met with in private -houses, and not to the ones used in the large hotels and -restaurants. -</p> - -<p id="bakedpotatoes125"> -<strong>Potatoes, Baked</strong>.—When potatoes are baked in the oven -in their jackets the larger they are the better. The oven -must not be too fierce, and ample time should be allowed. -Baked potatoes require quite two hours. This only refers to -those baked in their jackets. When potatoes are cut up and -baked in a tin they require some kind of fat, which, of -course, in vegetarian cookery must be either oil or butter. -</p> - -<p id="mashedpotatoes125"> -<strong>Potatoes, Mashed</strong>.—What may be termed high-class -mashed potatoes are made by mashing up ordinary boiled -potatoes with a little milk <em>previously boiled</em>, a little butter, -and passing the whole through a wire sieve, when a little -cream, butter and salt is added. -</p> - -<p> -In private houses mashed potatoes are generally made from -the remains of cold boiled potatoes, or when the cook, in -boiling the potatoes, has made a failure. Still, of course, potatoes -are boiled often expressly for the purpose of being mashed. -This is often the case where old potatoes have to be cut into -all sorts of shapes and sizes in order to get rid of the black -spots. As soon as the potatoes are boiled they are generally -moistened in the saucepan with a little drop of milk. It is -undoubtedly an improvement, and also entails very little extra -trouble, to boil the milk first. There is a difference in flavour, -which is very marked, between milk that has been boiled and -raw milk. Suppose you have coffee for breakfast, add boiling -milk to one cup and raw milk to another, and then see how -great a difference there will be in the flavour of the two. A -little butter should be added to mashed potatoes, but it is not -really essential. Mashed potatoes can be served in the shape -of a mould, that is, they can be shaped in a mould and then -browned in the oven. If you serve mashed potatoes in an -ordinary dish, and pile them up in the shape of a dome, the -dish will look much prettier if you score it round with a -fork and then place the dish in a fairly fierce even; the edges -will brown, but be careful that they don’t get burnt black. -</p> - -<p id="friedpotatoes126"> -<strong>Potatoes, Fried.</strong>—The best lesson, if you wish to fry -potatoes nicely, is to look in at the window of a fried fish shop, -where every condition is fulfilled that is likely to lead to -perfection. The bath of oil is deep and smoking hot, and in -sufficient quantity not to lose greatly in temperature on the -introduction of the frying-basket containing the potatoes. -The potatoes must be cut up into small pieces, not much bigger -in thickness than the little finger; these are plunged into the -smoking hot oil, and as soon as they are <em>slightly</em> browned on -the outside they are done. They acquire a darker colour after -they are removed from the oil, and the inside will go on -cooking for several minutes. It would be quite impossible to -eat fried potatoes directly they are taken out of the fat, as -they would burn the mouth terribly. It is best to throw the -fried potatoes into a cloth for a few seconds. -</p> - -<p id="potatochips126"> -<strong>Potato Chips.</strong>—Potato chips are ordinary fried potatoes -cut up when raw into little pieces about the size and thickness -of a lucifer match. They, of course, will cook very quickly. -They should be removed from the oil directly they <em>begin</em> to -turn colour. -</p> - -<p id="potatoribbon126"> -<strong>Potato Ribbon.</strong>—Potato ribbon is simply ordinary fried -potatoes, in which the raw potato is cut in the shape of a -ribbon. You take a potato and peel it in the ordinary way. -You then take this and, with not too sharp a knife, peel it like -apple, making the strip as long as you can, like children -sometimes do when they throw the apple peel over their -shoulders to see what letter it will make. You can go on -peeling the potato round and round till there is none left. -These ribbons are thrown into boiling oil, and must be removed -as soon as they begin to turn colour. When piled up in a -dish they look very pretty, and with a little pepper and salt, -and a squeeze of lemon-juice, make an excellent meal when eaten -with bread. -</p> - -<p id="sauteepotatoes126"> -<strong>Potato Sauté.</strong>—This dish is more frequently met with -abroad than in England, except in foreign restaurants. It is -made by taking the remains of ordinary plain-boiled potatoes -that are not floury. These are cut up into small pieces about -the size of the thumb, no particular shape being necessary. -They are thrown into a frying-pan with a little butter, and -fried gently till the edges begin to brown; they are served with -chopped parsley and pepper and salt. The butter should be -poured over the potatoes, and supplies the fatty element which -potato lacks. -</p> - -<p id="potatoesalamaitredhotel127"> -<strong>Potatoes à la Maître -d’Hôtel</strong>.—These are very similar to potato -sauté, the difference being that they are not browned at the edges. -Small kidney potatoes are best for the purpose. These must be boiled till -tender, and the potatoes then cut into slices. These must be warmed up with -a spoonful or two of white sauce (<em>see</em> <a -href="#whitesauce059">WHITE SAUCE</a>), to which is added some chopped -parsley and a little lemon-juice. A more common way is to boil the -potatoes, slice them up while hot, and then toss them about in a -vegetable-dish lightly with a lump of what is called Maître -d’Hôtel butter. This is simply a lump of plain cold butter, -mixed with chopped parsley, till it looks like a lump of cold parsley and -butter. When tossed about squeeze a little lemon-juice over the whole and -serve. -</p> - -<p id="newpotatoes127"> -<strong>Potatoes, New</strong>.—New potatoes should be washed and the -skin, if necessary, rubbed off with the fingers; they should be -thrown into boiling water, slightly salted, and as a rule require -from fifteen to five-and-twenty minutes to boil before -they are done. During the last few minutes throw in one or -two sprigs of fresh mint, drain them off and let there dry, and -then place them in a vegetable-dish with the mint and a little -piece of butter, in which the potatoes should be boiled to give -them a shiny appearance outside. -</p> - -<p> -New potatoes can also be served with a little <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> -to which has been added a little chopped parsley. -</p> - -<p id="potatoballs127"> -<strong>Potato Balls</strong>.—Mash some boiled potatoes with a little -butter, pepper, salt, chopped parsley, chopped onion, or still -better, shallot, and add a few savoury herbs. Mix up one or -two or more well-beaten eggs, according to the quantity of -potato, roll the mixture into balls, flour them, and fry them a -nice brown colour, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="potatocroquettes127"> -<strong>Potato Croquettes or Cutlets</strong>.—These are very similar -to potato balls, only they should be smaller and more delicately flavoured. -The potatoes are boiled and mashed, and, if the croquettes are wished to be -very good, one or two <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled yolks of -eggs</a> should be mixed with them. The mixture is slightly flavoured with -shallot, savoury herbs or thyme, chopped parsley, and a little nutmeg. One -or two fresh well-beaten-up eggs are now added, the mixture then rolled -into small balls no bigger than a walnut. These are then dipped in -well-beaten-up egg, and then bread-crumbed. The balls are fried a nice -golden-brown colour and served. -</p> - -<p> -Potato cutlets are exactly the same, only instead of shaping -the mixture into a little ball, the ball is flattened into the -shape of a small oval cutlet. These are then egged, bread-crumbed, -and fried, but before being sent to table a small piece -of green parsley stalk is stuck in one end to represent the -bone of the cutlet. These little cutlets, placed on an ornamental -sheet of white paper, at the bottom of the silver dish, -look very pretty. A small heap of fried parsley should be -placed in the centre of the dish. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Potato Pie</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#potatopie112">SAVOURY DISHES, p. 112.</a>) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Potato Cheesecake</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#potatocheesecake169">CHEESECAKES</a>, p. 169.) -</p> - -<p> -<strong>Potato Salads</strong>.—(<em>See</em> <a -href="#potatosalad101">SALADS, p. 101.</a>) -</p> - -<p id="potatoborder128"> -<strong>Potato, Border of</strong>.—A very pretty dish can be made by -making a border of mashed potatoes, hollow in the centre, in which can be -placed various kinds of other vegetables, such as haricot beans, stewed -peas, &c. The mashed potato should be mixed with one or two -well-beaten-up eggs, and the outside of the border can be moulded by hand, -to make it look smooth and neat; a piece of flexible tin, flat, will be -found very useful, or even a piece of cardboard. If you wish to make the -border ornamental, you can proceed exactly as directed under the heading <a -href="#riceborder064">Rice Borders</a>, and if it is wished to make the -dish particularly handsome, it can be painted outside, before being placed -in the oven, with a yolk of egg beaten up with a tiny drop of hot water. -When this is done, the potato border has an appearance similar in colour to -the rich pastry generally seen outside a pie, or <em>vol au vent</em>. The -inside of the potato border after it has been scooped out can be filled -with plain boiled <a href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a> mixed with Parmesan -cheese, and ornamented with a little chopped parsley on the top and a few -small baked red ripe tomatoes. Again, it can be filled with white haricot -beans piled up in the shape of a dome, with some chopped parsley sprinkled -over the top. There are, perhaps, few dishes in vegetarian cookery that can -be made to look more elegant. -</p> - -<p id="potatobiscuits129"> -<strong>Potato Biscuits</strong> (<em>M. Ude’s -Recipe</em>).—Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the yolks into one pan -and the whites into another. Beat the yolks with a pound of sugar pounded -very fine, scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, dry that and -pound it fine also; then throw into it the yolks, and work the eggs and -sugar till they are of a whitish colour. Next whip the whites well and mix -them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound of flour of potatoes through a -silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. Have some paper cases ready, which lay -on a plafond with some paper underneath. Fill the cases, but not too full; -glaze the contents with some rather coarse sugar, and bake the whole in an -oven moderately heated. -</p> - -<p id="potatobread129"> -<strong>Potato Bread.</strong>—In making bread, a portion of mashed -potato is sometimes added to the flour, and this addition improves -the bread very much for some tastes; it also keeps it -from getting dry quite so soon. At the same time it is not so -nutritious as ordinary home-made bread. Boil the required -quantity of potatoes in their skins, drain and dry them, then -peel and weigh them. Pound them with the rolling-pin until -they are quite free from lumps, and mix with them the flour in -the proportion of seven pounds of flour to two and a half -pounds of potatoes. Add the yeast and knead in the ordinary -way, but make up the bread with milk instead of water. When -the dough is well risen, bake the bread in a gentle oven. -Bake it a little longer than for ordinary bread, and, when it -seems done enough, let it stand a little while, with the oven-door -open, before taking it out. Unless these precautions are -taken, the crust will be hard and brittle, while the inside is -still moist and doughy. This recipe is from “Cassell’s Dictionary -of Cookery.” -</p> - -<p id="potatocake129"> -<strong>Potato Cake.</strong>—Take a dozen good-sized potatoes and hake -them in the oven till done, then peel and put them into a -saucepan with a little salt and grated lemon-peel; set them -upon the stove and put in a piece of fresh butter and stir the -whole; add a little cream and sugar, still continuing to stir -them; then let them cool a little and add some orange-flower -water, eight yolks of eggs and four only of whites, whisked -into froth; heat up the whole together and mix it with the -potato purée. Butter a mould and sprinkle it with bread-crumbs; -pour in the paste, place the pan upon hot cinders, -with fire upon the lid, and let it remain for three-quarters of -an hour, or it may be baked in an oven. -</p> - -<p id="potatocheese130"> -<strong>Potato Cheese</strong>.—Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed -in Germany; they can be made of various qualities, but care -must be taken that they are not too rich and have not too -much heat, or they will burst. Boil the potatoes till they are -soft, but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes must be -large and of the best quality. When boiled, carefully peel -them and beat them to a smooth paste in a mortar with a -wooden pestle. To make the commonest cheese, put five -pounds of potato paste into a cheese-tub with one pound of -milk and rennet; add a sufficient quantity of salt, together -with caraways and cumin seed sufficient to impart a good -flavour. Knead all these ingredients well together, cover up -and allow them to stand three or four days in winter, two to -three in summer. At the end of that time knead them again, -put the paste into wicker moulds, and leave the cheeses to -drain until they are quite dry. When dry and firm, lay them -on a board and leave them to acquire hardness gradually in a -place of very moderate warmth; should the heat be too great, -as we have said, they will burst. When, in spite of all -precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices of the burst -cheeses are, in Germany, filled with curds and cream mixed, -some being also put over the whole surface of the cheese, which -is then dried again. As soon as the cheeses are thoroughly -dry and hard, place them in barrels with green chickweed -between each cheese; let them stand for about three weeks, -when they will be fit for use. -</p> - -<p id="potatoesalabarigoule130"> -<strong>Potatoes à la Barigoule</strong>.—Peel some potatoes and boil -them in a little water with some oil, pepper, salt, onions, and -savoury herbs. Boil them slowly, so that they can absorb the -liquor; when they are done, brown them in a stew-pan in a -little oil, and serve them to be eaten with oil and vinegar, -pepper and salt. -</p> - -<p id="broiledpotatoes131"> -<strong>Potatoes, Broiled.</strong>—Potatoes are served this way sometimes -in Italy. They are first boiled in their skins, but not -too long. They are then taken out and peeled, cut into thin -slices, placed on a gridiron, and grilled till they are crisp. A -little oil is poured over them when they are served. -</p> - -<p id="potatoesalalyonnaise131"> -<strong>Potatoes à la Lyonnaise.</strong>—First boil and then -peel and slice some potatoes. Make some rather thin purée of onion. -(<em>See</em> <a href="#soubisesauce058">SAUCE SOUBISE</a>.) Pour this over -the potatoes and serve. -</p> - -<p> -Another way is to first brown the slices of potatoes and -then serve them with the onion sauce, with the addition of a -little vinegar or lemon-juice. -</p> - -<p id="potatoesalaprovencale131"> -<strong>Potatoes à la Provençale.</strong>—Put a small piece of butter -into a stew-pan, or three tablespoonfuls of oil, three beads of -garlic, the peel of a quarter of a lemon, and some parsley, all -chopped up very fine; add a little grated nutmeg, pepper and -salt. Peel some small potatoes and let them stew till they -are tender in this mixture. Large potatoes can be used for -the purpose, only they must be cut tip into pieces. Add the -juice of a lemon before serving. -</p> - -<p id="haricotbeans131"> -<strong>Haricot Beans.</strong>—It is very much to be regretted that -haricot beans are not more used in this country. There are -hundreds of thousands of families who at the end of a year -would be richer in purse and more healthy in body if -they would consent to deviate from the beaten track and try -haricot beaus, not as an accompaniment to a dish of meat, but -as an article of diet in themselves. The immense benefit -derived in innumerable cases from a diet of beans is one of -the strongest and most practical arguments in favour of -vegetarianism. Meat-eaters often boast of the plainness of -their food, and yet wonder that they suffer in health. It is -not an uncommon thing for a man to consult his doctor -and to tell him, “I live very simply, nothing but plain roast -or boiled.” -</p> - -<p> -Medical men are all agreed on one point, and that is -that haricot beans rank almost first among vegetables as a -nourishing article of diet. In writing on this subject, Sir -Henry Thompson observes, “Let me recall, at the close of -these few hints about the haricot, the fact that there is no -product of the vegetable kingdom so nutritious, holding its -own, in this respect, as it well can, even against the beef and -mutton of the animal kingdom.” -</p> - -<p> -This is a very strong statement, coming as it does from so -high an authority, and vegetarians would do well to hear it in -mind when discussing the subject of vegetarianism with those -who differ from them. Sir Henry proceeds as follows:—“The -haricot ranks just above lentils, which have been so much -praised of late, and rightly, the haricot being to most palates -more agreeable. By most stomachs, too, haricots are more -easily digested than meat is; and, consuming weight for -weight, the eater feels lighter and less oppressed, as a rule, -after the leguminous dish, while the comparative cost is very -greatly in favour of the latter.” -</p> - -<p> -To boil haricot beans proceed as follows. We refer, of -course, to the dried white haricot beans, the best of which are -those known as Soissons. The beans should be soaked in cold -water overnight, and in the morning any that may be found -floating on the top of the water should be thrown away. -Suppose the quantity be a quart; place these in a saucepan -with two quarts of cold water, slightly salted. As soon as time -water conies to the boil, move it so that the beans will only -simmer gently; they must then continue simmering till they -are tender. This generally takes about three hours, and if the -water is hard, it is advisable to put in a tiny piece of -soda. This is the simple way of cooking beans usually recommended -in cookery-books when they are served up with a -dish of meat, such as a leg of mutton à la Bretonne, where the -beans are served in some rich brown gravy containing fat. -In vegetarian cookery, of course, we must proceed entirely -differently, and there are various ways in which this nourishing -dish can be served, as savoury and as appetising, and indeed -more so, than if we had assistance from the slaughter-house. -We will now proceed to give a few instances. -</p> - -<p> -In the first place, it will greatly assist the flavour of the -beans if we boil with them one or two onions and a dessertspoonful -of savoury herbs. Supposing, however, we have -them boiled plain. Take a large dry crust of bread and rub -the outside well over with one or two beads of garlic. Place -this crust of bread with the beans after they have been strained -off, and toss them lightly about with the crust without breaking -the beans. Remove the crust and moisten the beans while hot -with a lump of butter, add a brimming dessertspoonful of -chopped blanched parsley; squeeze the juice of a lemon over -the whole, and serve. Instead of butter we can add, as they -always do in Italy, two or three tablespoonfuls of pure olive -oil. Those who have conquered the unreasonable English -prejudice against the use of oil will probably find this superior -to butter. -</p> - -<p> -If the beans are served in the form of a purée, it is always -best to boil a few onions with them and rub the onions through -the wire sieve with the beans, taking care that the quantity of -onion is not so large that it destroys and overpowers the -delicate and delicious flavour of the beans themselves. -</p> - -<p> -Next, we would call attention to the importance of not -throwing away the water in which the beans were boiled. -This water contains far more nourishment than people are aware -of, and throughout the length and breadth of France, where -economy is far more understood than in this country, it is -invariably saved to assist in making some kind of soup, and -as our soup will, of course, be vegetarian, the advantage gained -is simply incalculable. -</p> - -<p id="flageolets133"> -<strong>Flageolets</strong>.—These are haricot beans in the fresh green -state, and are rarely met with in this country, though they -form a standing dish abroad. They are exceedingly nice, and -can be cooked in a little butter like the French cook green -peas. They are often flavoured with garlic, and chopped -parsley can be added to them. Those who are fond of this -vegetable in the fresh state can obtain them in tins from any -high-class grocer, as the leading firms in this country keep -them in this form for export. -</p> - -<p id="driedpeas133"> -<strong>Peas, Dried</strong>.—Dried peas, like dried beans, contain a very -great amount of nourishment. Indeed, in this respect, practically, -dried beans, dried peas, and lentils may be considered -equal. Dried peas are met with in two forms—the split yellow -pea and those that are dried whole, green. Split peas are -chiefly used in this country to make <a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">pea soup</a>, or purée of peas -and peas pudding. We have already given recipes for the two -former, and will now describe how to make— -</p> - -<p id="peaspudding134"> -<strong>Peas Pudding</strong>.—Soak a quart of peas in water overnight, -throwing away those in the morning that are found floating at -the top. Drain them off and tie them up in a pudding-cloth, -taking care to leave plenty of room for the peas to swell; put -them into cold water, and boil them till they are tender. This -will take from two to three hours. When tender, take -them out, untie the cloth, and rub them through a colander, -or, better still, a wire sieve. Now mix in a couple of ounces -of butter with some pepper and salt, flour the cloth well and -tie it up again and boil it for another hour, when it can be -turned out and served. Peas pudding when eaten alone is -improved by mixing in, at the same time as the butter, a -dessertspoonful of dried powdered mint, also, should you have -the remains of any cold potatoes in the house, it is a very good -way of using them up. A few savoury herbs can be used -instead of mint. -</p> - -<p id="peasbrose134"> -<strong>Peas “Brose.”</strong>—Dr. Andrew, in writing to the “Cyclopædia -of Domestic Medicine,” says, “In the West of Scotland, -especially in Glasgow, ‘peas brose,’ as it is called, is made of -the fine flour of the white pea, by forming it into a mass -merely by the addition of boiling water and a little salt. It -is a favourite dish with not only the working classes, but it -is even esteemed by many of the gentry. It was introduced -into fashion chiefly by the recommendation of Dr. Cleghorn, -late Professor of Chemistry in Glasgow University. The peas -brose is eaten with milk or butter, and is a sweet, nourishing -article of diet peculiarly fitted for persons of a costive habit -and for children.” -</p> - -<p id="driedwholegreenpeas134"> -<strong>Peas, Dried Whole, Green</strong>.—This is perhaps the best form -with which we meet peas dried. When the best quality is -selected, and care taken in their preparation, they are quite -equal to fresh green peas when they are old. Indeed, many -persons prefer them. -</p> - -<p> -Soak the peas overnight, throwing away those that float -at the top; put them into cold water, and when they boil let -the peas simmer gently till they are tender. The time varies -very much with the quality and the size of the peas, old ones -requiring nearly three hours, others considerably less. When -the peas are tender, throw in some sprigs, if possible, of fresh -mint, and after a minute strain them off; add pepper, salt, and -about two ounces of butter to a quart of peas—though this -is not absolutely necessary—and nearly a dessertspoonful of -white powdered sugar. -</p> - -<p> -If you wish to have the peas as bright a green as freshly -gathered ones, after you strain them off you can mix them in -a basin, before you add the butter, with a little piece of green -vegetable colouring (sold in bottles by all grocers). The peas -should then be put back in the saucepan for a few minutes to -be made hot through, and then finished as directed before. -</p> - -<p id="driedgreenpeaswithcream135"> -<strong>Peas, Dried, Green, with Cream</strong>.—Boil the peas as before -directed till they are quite tender, then strain them off and -put them in a stew-pan with one ounce of butter to every -quart of peas and toss them lightly about with a little pepper, -salt, and grated nutmeg. Add to each quart of peas a quarter -of a pint of cream and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; -surround the dish with fried or toasted bread. -</p> - -<p id="lentils135"> -<strong>Lentils</strong>.—Lentils are, comparatively speaking, a novel -form of food in this country, though they have been used -abroad for many years, and a recipe for cooking them will be -found in a well-known work, published in Paris in 1846, entitled -“<cite>La Cuisinière de la Campagne et de la Ville; ou, -Nouvelle Cuisine Économique</cite>,”one of the most popular French -cookery-books ever published, and which in that year had -reached a circulation of 80,000 copies. -</p> - -<p> -Recipes for boiled lentils and <a href="#lentilsoup033">lentil soup</a> are -given in “Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery,” published in -1875; but it is stated in the introductory remarks that lentils are little -used in England except as food for pigeons, and adds, “They are -seldom offered for sale.” Since that date lentils have become an -exceedingly popular form of food in many households, and vegetarians -generally regard them as one of the most nourishing forms of food served at -the table. There are two kinds of lentils, the German and Egyptian. The -Egyptian are red and much smaller than the German, which are green. The -former kind are generally used on the Continent, in Italy and the South of -France, while, as the name implies, the green lentils are more commonly -used in Eastern Europe. Either kind, however, can be used for making soup -and purée, recipes of which have already been given, as well as for -the recipes in the present chapter. -</p> - -<p id="boiledlentils136"> -<strong>Lentils, Boiled</strong>.—The lentils should be placed in soak overnight, -and those that float should be thrown away. Suppose -we have half a pint of lentils, they should be boiled in about -a pint and a half of water. Boil them till they are tender, -which will take about half an hour, then drain them off and -put them back in the saucepan for a few minutes with a little -piece of butter, squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon, -and serve hot. Some people make a little thickened sauce with -yolks of eggs and a little butter and flour mixed with the -water in which they are boiled. -</p> - -<p id="curriedlentils136"> -<strong>Lentils, Curried</strong>.—Lentils are very nice curried. -Boil the lentils as directed above till they are tender. When they are -placed in a vegetable-dish make deep well in the centre and pour some thick -curry sauce into it. (<em>See</em> <a href="#currysauce050">CURRY -SAUCE</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="lentilsalaprovencale136"> -<strong>Lentils à la Provençale</strong>.—Soak the lentils overnight and -put them into a stew-pan with five or six spoonfuls of oil, a -little butter, some slices of onion, some chopped parsley, and a -teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs. Stew them in this till -the lentils are tender, and then thicken the sauce with yolks of -eggs, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—<a href="#haricotbeans131">Haricot beans</a> can be cooked in a similar manner. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter8">CHAPTER VIII.</h2> - - <h3>VEGETABLES, FRESH.</h3> - - <p id="frenchartichokes137"> - <strong>Artichokes, French, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Put the - artichokes to soak in some well salted water, upside down, as otherwise - it is impossible to get rid of the insects that are sometimes hidden in - the leaves. Trim off the ends of the leaves and the stalk, and all the - hard leaves round the bottom should be pulled off. Put the artichokes - into a saucepan of boiling water sufficiently deep to nearly cover - them. The tips of the leaves are best left out; add a little salt, - pepper, and a spoonful of savoury herbs to the water in which they are - boiled. French cooks generally add a piece of butter. Boil them till - they are tender. The time depends upon the size, but you can always - tell when they are done by pulling out a single leaf. If it comes out - easily the artichokes are done. Drain them off, and remember in - draining them to turn them upside down. Some kind of sauce is generally - served with artichokes separately in a boat, such as <a - href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, <a - href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a>, or <a - href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. - </p> - -<p id="broiledfrenchartichokes137"> -<strong>Artichokes, Broiled</strong>.—Parboil the artichokes and take -out the part known as the choke. In the hollow place a little -chopped parsley and light-coloured bread-raspings soaked in -olive oil. Place the bottoms of the artichokes on a gridiron -with narrow bars over a clear fire, and serve them as soon a -they are thoroughly hot through. -</p> - -<p id="friedfrenchartichokes137"> -<strong>Artichokes, Fried</strong>.—The bottoms of artichokes after being -boiled can be dipped in batter and fried. -</p> - -<p id="frenchartichokesalaprovencale137"> -<strong>Artichokes à la Provençale</strong>.—Parboil the artichokes and -remove the choke, and put them in the oven in a tin with a -little oil, pepper and salt, and three or four heads of garlic, -whole. Let them bake till they are tender, turning them over -in the oil occasionally; then take out the garlic and serve them -with the oil poured over them, and add the juice of a lemon. -</p> - -<p id="jerusalemartichokes137"> -<strong>Artichokes, Jerusalem, Boiled, Plain</strong>.—The artichokes -must be first washed and peeled, and should be treated like -potatoes in this respect. They should be thrown into cold -water immediately, and it is best to add a little vinegar to -the water. If the artichokes are young, throw them into -boiling water, and they will become tender in about a quarter -of an hour or twenty minutes. It is very important not to -over-boil them, as they turn a bad colour. If any doubt -exists as to the age of the artichokes, they had better be tested -with a fork. Immediately they are tender they should be -drained and served. -</p> - -<p> -Old artichokes must be treated like old potatoes, <em>i.e.</em>, put -originally into cold water, and when they come to the boiling point allowed -to simmer till tender; but these are best mashed. When the artichokes have -been drained, they can, of course, be served quite plain, but they are best -sent to table with some kind of sauce poured over them, such as <a -href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande sauce</a>, <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>, <a href="#whitesauce059">white -sauce</a>, or plain <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. They are -greatly improved in appearance, after a spoonful of sauce has been poured -over each artichoke, if a little blanched chopped parsley is sprinkled over -them, and a few red specks made by colouring a pinch of bread-crumbs by -shaking them with a few drops of cochineal. -</p> - -<p> -Another very nice way of sending artichokes to table is to place all the -artichokes together in a vegetable-dish, and, after pouring a little <a -href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> over each artichoke, to place a -fresh-boiled bright green Brussels sprout between each. The white and green -contrast very prettily. -</p> - -<p id="friedjerusalemartichokes138"> -<strong>Jerusalem Artichokes, Fried</strong>.—Peel and slice the artichokes -very thin; throw these slices into smoking hot oil in -which a frying-basket has been placed. As soon as the artichokes -are of bright golden-brown colour, lift out the frying-basket, -shake it while you pepper and salt the artichokes, -and serve very hot. They can be eaten with thin brown bread-and-butter -and lemon-juice, and form a sort of vegetarian -whitebait. -</p> - -<p id="mashedjerusalemartichokes138"> -<strong>Artichokes, Mashed</strong>.—These are best made from old artichokes. -They must be rubbed through a wire sieve, and the strings -left behind. It is best to mash them up with a little butter, and -a spoonful or two of cream is a very great improvement. -</p> - -<p id="boiledasparagus139"> -<strong>Asparagus, Boiled</strong>.—Cut the asparagus all the same -length by bringing the green points together, and then trimming the stalks -level with a sharp knife. Throw the asparagus into boiling salted water. -Time, from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to thickness. Serve on -dry toast, and send <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a> to table -separate in a tureen. -</p> - -<p id="broadbeans139"> -<strong>Beans, Broad, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Broad beans, if eaten -whole, should be quite young. They should be thrown into boiling water, -salted. They require about twenty minutes to boil before they are tender. -Serve with parsley and <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>. -</p> - -<p id="mashedbroadbeans139"> -<strong>Broad Beans, Mashed</strong>.—When broad beans get old, the -only way to serve them is to have them mashed. Boil them, -and remove the skins, then mash them up with a little butter, -pepper, and salt, and rub them through a wire sieve, make -them hot, and serve. You can if you like boil a few green -onions and a pinch of savoury herbs with the beans, and rub -these through the wire sieve as well. This dish is very cheap -and very nourishing. Very young beans, like very young -peas, are more nice than economical. -</p> - -<p id="broadbeansalapoulette139"> -<strong>Beans à la Poulette</strong>.—Boil some young beans till they -are tender, and put them into a saucepan with a little butter, -sugar, pepper, and salt, and sufficient flour to prevent the -butter cooking oily; stew them in this a short time, <em>i.e.</em>, till -they appear to begin to boil, as the water from the beans will -mix with the butter and flour and look like thin butter sauce -thicken this with one or two yolks of eggs, and serve. -</p> - -<p id="broadbeansalabourgeoise139"> -<strong>Beans à la Bourgeoise</strong>.—Place the beans in a saucepan, -with a piece of butter, a small quantity of shallot chopped -fine, and a teaspoonful of savoury herbs; toss them about in -this a little time, and then add a little water, sufficient to -moisten them so that they can stew; add a little sugar, and -when tender thicken the water with some beaten-up egg. -</p> - -<p id="frenchbeans139"> -<strong>Beans, French, Plain Boiled</strong>.—French beans are only -good when fresh gathered, and the younger they are the better. -When small they can be boiled whole, in which case they only -require the tips cut off and the string that runs down the side -removed. When they are more fully grown they will require, -in addition to being trimmed in this manner, to be cut into -thin strips, and when very old it will be found best to cut -them slanting. They must be thrown into boiling salted -water, and boiled till they are tender. The time for boiling -varies with the age; very young ones will not take more than -a quarter of an hour, and if old ones are not tender in half an -hour they had better be made into a purée. As soon as the -beans are tender, drain them off, and serve them very hot; the -chief point to bear in mind, if we wish to have our beans nice, -is, they must be eaten directly they are drained from the water -in which they are boiled. They are spoilt by what is called -being kept hot, and possess a marvellous facility of getting -cold in a very short space of time. -</p> - -<p> -In vegetarian cookery, when beans are eaten without being an accompaniment -to meat, some form of fat is desirable. When the beans are drained we can -add either butter or oil. When a lump of <a -href="#maitredhotelsauce053"><em>Maître d’Hôtel</em> -butter</a> is added they form what the French call <em>haricots vert -à la Maître d’Hôtel</em>. In this case, a slight -suspicion of garlic may be added by rubbing the stew-pan in which the -French beans are tossed together with the <em>Maître -d’Hôtel butter</em>. When oil is added, a little chopped -parsley will be found an improvement, as well as pepper, salt, and a -suspicion of nutmeg. -</p> - -<p> -French beans are very nice flavoured with oil and garlic, -and served in a border of <a href="#macaroni067">macaroni</a>. -</p> - -<p id="frenchbeanspudding140"> -<strong>French Bean Pudding</strong>.—When French beans are very old -they are sometimes made into a pudding as follows:—They -must be trimmed, cut up, boiled, with or without the addition -of a few savoury herbs. They must be then mashed in a basin, -tied up in a well-buttered and then floured cloth, and boiled -for some time longer. The pudding can then be turned out. -A still better way of making a French bean pudding is to rub -the beans through the wire sieve, leaving the strings behind, -flavouring the pudding with a few savoury herbs, a little sugar, -pepper, and salt, and, if liked, a suspicion of garlic; add one or -two well-beaten-up eggs, and put the mixture in a round pudding-basin, -and bake it till it sets. This can be turned out on -the centre of a dish, and a few young French beans placed -round the base to ornament it, in conjunction with some -pieces of fried bread cut into pretty shapes. -</p> - -<p id="brocoli141"> -<strong>Brocoli</strong>.—Trim the outer leaves off a brocoli, and -cut off the stalk even, so that it will stand upright. Soak the brocoli in -salt and water for some time, in order to get rid of any insects. Throw the -brocoli into boiling water that has been salted, and boil till it is -tender, the probable time for young brocoli being about a quarter of an -hour. It should be served on a dish with the flower part uppermost; and <a -href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, <a href="#allemandesauce044">sauce -Allemande</a>, or <a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a> can be served separately, or poured over the -surface. -</p> - -<p> -When several heads of brocoli are served at once, it is important -to cut the stalks flat, as directed, before boiling. After -they have been thoroughly drained <em>upside down</em>, they should -be placed on the dish, flower part uppermost, and placed -together as much as possible to look like one large brocoli. If -sauce is poured over them, the sauce should be sufficiently -thick to be spread, and every part of the flower should be -covered. Half a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley -may be sprinkled over the top, and improves the appearance -of the dish. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—We would particularly call attention to the importance -of draining brocoli and cauliflower very thoroughly, -especially when any sauce is served with the brocoli. When -the dish is cut into, nothing looks more disagreeable than to -see the white sauce running off the brocoli into green water at -the bottom of the dish. -</p> - -<p id="brocoligreens141"> -<strong>Brocoli Greens</strong>.—The outside leaves of brocoli should not -be thrown away, but eaten. Too often they are trimmed off -at the greengrocer’s or at the market, and, we presume, utilised -for the purpose of feeding cattle. They can be boiled exactly -like white cabbages, and are equal to them, if not superior, in -flavour. To boil them, <em>see</em> CABBAGE, WHITE, LARGE. -</p> - -<p id="brusselssprouts141"> -<strong>Brussels Sprouts</strong>.—These must be first washed in cold -water and all the little pieces of decayed leaves trimmed away. -Throw them into boiling salted water; the water must be kept -boiling the whole time, without a lid on the saucepan, and if -the quantity of water be sufficiently large not to be taken off -the boil by the sprouts being thrown in they will be sent to -table of a far brighter green colour than otherwise. In order -to ensure this, throw in the sprouts a few at a time, picking out -the big ones to throw in first. Sprouts, as soon as they are -tender—probable time a quarter of an hour—should be drained -and served <em>quickly</em>. When served as a dish by themselves, -after being drained off, they can be placed in a stew-pan with -a little butter, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-juice. They -can then be served with toasted or fried bread. -</p> - -<p id="cabbage142"> -<strong>Cabbage, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Ordinary young cabbages should -be first trimmed by having the outside leaves removed, the -stalks cut off, and then should be cut in halves and allowed to -soak some time in salt and water. They should be thrown into -plenty of boiling water; the water should be kept boiling and -uncovered. As soon as they are tender they should be strained -off and served immediately. Young summer cabbages will not -take longer than a quarter of an hour, or even less; old -cabbages take nearly double that time. It is impossible to -lay down any exact rule with regard to time. Savoys generally -take about half an hour. The large white cabbages met with -in the West of England take longer and require a different -treatment. -</p> - -<p> -When cabbage is served as a dish by itself it will be found a -great improvement to add either butter or oil to moisten the -cabbage after it is thoroughly drained off. In order to ensure -the butter not oiling, but adhering to the cabbage, it is best -after the butter is added, and while you mix it with the -cabbage, to shake the flour-dredger two or three times over the -vegetable. In Germany, many add vinegar and sugar to the -cabbage. -</p> - -<p id="largewhitecabbage142"> -<strong>Cabbage, Large White</strong>.—In the West of England cabbages -grow to an immense size, owing, probably, to the moist heat, -and have been exhibited in agricultural shows over twenty -pounds in weight and as big as an eighteen gallon cask. These -cabbages are best boiled as follows:—After being cut up and -thoroughly washed, it will be found that the greater part of -the cabbage resembles what in ordinary cabbage would be called -stalk, and, of course, the leaves vary very considerably in thickness -from the hard stalk end up to the leaf. Have plenty of -boiling water ready salted, now cut off the stalk part where it is -thickest and throw this in first. Wait till the water comes to -the boil again and let it boil for a few minutes. Then throw -in the next thickest part and again wait till the water re-boils, -and so on, reserving the thin leafy part to be thrown in last of -all. By this means, and this only, do we get the cabbage boiled -uniformly. Had we thrown in all at once one of two things -would be inevitable—either the stalk would be too hard to be -eaten or the leafy part over-boiled. A large white cabbage takes -about an hour to boil tender, and a piece of soda should be added -to the water. When the cabbage is well drained, it can be -served either plain or moistened, and made to look oily by the -addition of a piece of butter. As the cabbage is very white, -the dish is very much improved by the addition of a little -chopped parsley sprinkled over the top, not for the sake of -flavour but appearance. -</p> - -<p id="cabbageandcream143"> -<strong>Cabbage and Cream</strong>.—Ordinary cabbages are sometimes -served stewed with a little cream. They should be first parboiled, -then the moisture squeezed from them, and then they -must be put in a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt -and nutmeg, and a spoonful of flour should be shaken over the -cabbage in order to prevent the butter being too oily. When -the cabbage is stewed till it is perfectly tender, add a few -spoonfuls of cream, stir up, and make the whole thoroughly -hot, and serve with fried or toasted bread. -</p> - -<p id="redcabbage143"> -<strong>Cabbage, Red</strong>.—Red cabbages are chiefly used for pickling. -They are sometimes served fresh. They should be cut across -so that the cabbage shreds, boiled till they are tender, the -moisture thoroughly extracted, and then put into a stew-pan -with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and a few shakes of flour -from the flour-dredger. After stirring for ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them and -serve. -</p> - -<p id="boiledcarrots143"> -<strong>Carrots, Boiled</strong>.—When carrots are boiled and served -as a course by themselves, they ought to be young. This dish is constantly -met with abroad in early summer, but is rarely seen in England, except at -the tables of vegetarians. The carrots should be trimmed, thoroughly -washed, and, if necessary, slightly scraped, and the point at the end, -which looks like a piece of string, should be cut off. They should be -thrown into fast boiling water (salted) in order to preserve their colour. -When tender they can be served with some kind of good <a -href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, or <a -href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a> or <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. Perhaps this latter sauce is best of -all, as it looks like rich custard. Part of the red carrot should show -uncovered by any sauce. They are best placed in a circle and the thick -sauce poured in the centre; a very little chopped blanched parsley can be -sprinkled on the top of the sauce. In making Dutch sauce for carrots use -lemon-juice instead of tarragon vinegar. -</p> - -<p id="friedcarrots144"> -<strong>Carrots, Fried</strong>.—Fried carrots can be made from full-grown -carrots. They must be first parboiled and then cut in slices; -they must then be dipped in well-beaten-up egg, and then -covered with fine dry bread-crumbs and fried a nice brown in -smoking hot oil in a frying-basket. The slices of carrot should -be peppered and salted before being dipped in the egg. -</p> - -<p id="mashedcarrots144"> -<strong>Carrots, Mashed</strong>.—When carrots are very old they are best -mashed. Boil them for some time, then cut them up and rub -them through a wire sieve. They can be pressed in a basin -and made hot by being steamed. A little butter, pepper and -salt should be added to the mixture. A very pretty dish can -be made by means of mixing mashed carrots with mashed -turnips. They can be shaped in a basin, and with a little -ingenuity can be put into red and white stripes. The effect is -something like the top of a striped tent. -</p> - -<p id="boiledcauliflower144"> -<strong>Cauliflower, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Cauliflowers can be treated in -exactly the same manner as brocoli, and there are very few who -can tell the difference. (<em>See</em> <a href="#brocoli141">BROCOLI</a>.) -</p> - -<p id="caulifloweraugratin144"> -<strong>Cauliflower au gratin</strong>.—This is a very nice method of -serving cauliflower as a course by itself. The cauliflower or cauliflowers -should first be boiled till thoroughly tender, very carefully drained, and -then placed upright in a vegetable-dish with the flower part uppermost. The -whole of the flower part should then be <em>masked</em> (<em>i.e.</em>, -covered over) with some thick <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>. <a -href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande sauce</a> or <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a> will do. This is then sprinkled over -with grated Parmesan cheese and the dish put in the oven for the top to -brown. As soon as it <em>begins</em> to brown take it out of the oven and -finish it off neatly with a salamander (a red-hot shovel will do), the same -way you finish cheese-cakes made from curds. -</p> - -<p id="cauliflowerandtomatosauce145"> -<strong>Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce</strong>.—Boil and place the cauliflower -or flowers upright in a dish as in the above recipe. -Now mask all the flower part very neatly, commencing round -the edges first, with some tomato conserve previously made -warm, and serve immediately. This is a very pretty-looking -dish. -</p> - -<p id="stewedcelery145"> -<strong>Celery, Stewed</strong>.—The secret of having good stewed -celery is only to cook the white part. Throw the celery into boiling water, -with only sufficient water just to cover it. When the celery is tender use -some of the water in which it is stewed to make a sauce to serve with it, -or better still, stew the celery in milk. The sauce looks best when it is -thickened with the yolks of eggs. A very nice sauce indeed can be made by -first thickening the milk or water in which the celery is stewed with a -little <a href="#roux022">white roux</a>, and then adding a quarter of a -pint of cream boiled separately. Stewed celery should be served on toast, -like asparagus; a little chopped blanched parsley can be sprinkled over the -white sauce by way of ornament, and fried bread should be placed round the -edge of the dish. -</p> - -<p> -Stewed celery can also be served with <a href="#allemandesauce044">sauce -Allemande</a> or <a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. -</p> - -<p id="endive145"> -<strong>Endive</strong>.—Endive is generally used as a salad, but is very -nice served as a vegetable, stewed. White-heart endives should -be chosen, and several heads will be required for a dish, as they -shrink very much in cooking. Wash and clean the endives -very carefully in salt and water first, as they often contain -insects. Boil them in slightly salted water till they are tender, -then drain them off, and thoroughly extract the moisture; put -them in a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, -let them stew for some little time; add the juice of a lemon, and -serve. It will make the dish much prettier if you reserve one -head of endive boiled whole. Place the stewed endive on a -dish, and sprinkle some chopped blanched parsley over it, then -place the single head of endive upright in the centre, and place -some fried bread round the edge. -</p> - -<p id="stewedleeks145"> -<strong>Leeks, Stewed</strong>.—Leeks must be trimmed down to where -the green part meets the white on the one side, and the root, where the -strings are, cut off on the other. They should be thrown into boiling -water, boiled till they are tender, and then thoroughly drained. The water -in which leeks have been boiled is somewhat rank and bitter, and, as the -leeks are like tubes, in order to drain them perfectly you must turn them -upside down. They can be served on toast, and covered with some kind of -white sauce, either ordinary <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, <a -href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a>, or <a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. -</p> - -<p id="welshporridge146"> -<strong>Leeks, Welsh Porridge</strong>.—The leeks are stewed and cut in -slices, and served in some of the liquor in which they are -boiled, with toast cut in strips, something like onion porridge. -Boil the leeks for five minutes, drain them off, and throw away -the first water, and then stew them gently in some fresh water. -In years back, in Wales, French plums were stewed with and -added to the porridge. -</p> - -<p id="stewedlettuces146"> -<strong>Lettuces, Stewed</strong>.—As lettuces shrink very much when -boiled, allowance must be made, and several heads used. This -is also a very good way of utilising the large old-fashioned -English lettuce resembling in shape a gingham umbrella. -They should be first boiled till tender. The time depends -entirely upon the size. Drain them off, and thoroughly extract -the moisture; put them into a stew-pan, with a little -butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Let them stew some little -time, and add a little vinegar, or, still better, lemon-juice. -</p> - -<p id="stewedlettuceswithpeas146"> -<strong>Lettuces Stewed with Peas</strong>.—A border of stewed lettuces -can be made as above, and the centre filled up with some fresh-boiled -young green peas. -</p> - -<p id="plainonions146"> -<strong>Onions, Plain Boiled</strong>.—When onions are served as a dish -by themselves, Spanish onions are far best for the purpose. -Ordinary onions, as a rule, are too strong to be eaten, except -as an accompaniment to some other kind of food. When -onions are plain boiled, they are best served on dry toast -without any sauce at all. Butter can be added when eaten on -the plate if liked. Large Spanish onions will require about -three hours to boil tender. -</p> - -<p id="bakedonions146"> -<strong>Onions, Baked</strong>.—Spanish onions can be baked in the oven. -They are best placed in saucers, with a very little butter to -prevent them sticking, with which they can also be basted -occasionally. Probable time about three hours. They should -be of a nice brown colour at the finish. -</p> - -<p id="stewedonions147"> -<strong>Onions, Stewed</strong>.—Place a large Spanish onion in a saucer -at the bottom of the saucepan, and put sufficient water in the -saucepan to reach the edge of the saucer; keep the lid of the -saucepan on tight, and let it steam till tender. A large onion -would take about three hours. The water from the onion will -prevent the necessity of adding fresh water from time to time. -</p> - -<p id="parsnips147"> -<strong>Parsnips</strong>.—Like young carrots, young parsnips are -often met with abroad as a course by themselves. They should be trimmed and -boiled whole, and served with <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, <a -href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande sauce</a>, or <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>; a little chopped blanched parsley -should be sprinkled over the sauce, and fried bread served round the edge -of the dish. -</p> - -<p id="friedparsnips147"> -<strong>Parsnips, Fried</strong>.—Boil some full-grown parsnips till they -are tender, cut them into slices, pepper and salt them, dip them -into beaten-up egg, and cover them with bread-crumbs, and -fry these slices in some smoking hot oil till they are a nice -brown colour. -</p> - -<p id="mashedparsnips147"> -<strong>Parsnips, Mashed</strong>.—When parsnips are very old they are -best mashed. Boil them for an hour or more, then cut them -up and rub them through a wire sieve. The stringy part will -have to be left behind. Mix the pulp with a little butter, -pepper, and salt; make this hot, and serve. A little cream is -a great improvement. -</p> - -<p id="parsnipcake147"> -<strong>Parsnip Cake</strong>.—Boil two or three parsnips until they are -tender enough to mash, then press them through a colander -with the back of a wooden spoon, and carefully remove any -fibrous, stringy pieces there may be. Mix a teacupful of the -mashed parsnip with a quart of hot milk, add a teaspoonful of -salt, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of yeast, and -enough flour to make a stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains -the mixture in a warm place, cover it with a cloth, and -leave it to rise. When it has risen to twice its original size, -knead some more flour into it, and let it rise again; make it -into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and place -these on buttered tins. Let them stand before the fire a few -minutes, and bake them in a hot oven. They do not taste of -the parsnip. Time, some hours to rise; about twenty minutes -to bake. -</p> - -<p id="greenpeas148"> -<strong>Peas, Green</strong>.—By far the best and nicest way of cooking -green peas when served as a course by themselves is to stew -them gently in a little butter without any water at all, like -they do in France. The peas are first shelled, and then placed -in a stew-pan with a little butter, sufficient to moisten them. -As soon as they are tender, which will vary with the size and -age of the peas, they can be served just as they are. The -flavour of peas cooked this way is so delicious that they are -nicest eaten with plain bread. When old peas are cooked this -way it is customary to add a little white powdered sugar. -</p> - -<p id="boiledpeas148"> -<strong>Peas, Green, Plain Boiled</strong>.—Shell the peas, and throw -them into boiling water slightly salted. Keep the lid off the -saucepan and throw in a few sprigs of fresh green mint five -minutes before you drain them off. Young peas will take -about ten to twenty minutes, and full-grown peas rather -longer. Serve the peas directly they are drained, as they are -spoilt by being kept hot. -</p> - -<p id="stewedpeas148"> -<strong>Peas, Stewed</strong>.—When peas late in the season get old and -tough, they can be stewed. Boil them for rather more than -half an hour, throwing them first of all into boiling water; -drain them off, and put them into a stew-pan with a little -butter, pepper, and salt. Young onions and lettuces cut up -can be stewed with them, but young green peas are far too -nice ever to be spoilt by being cooked in this way. -</p> - -<p id="scotchkale148"> -<strong>Scotch Kale</strong>.—Scotch kale, or curly greens, as it is sometimes -called in some parts of the country, is cooked like ordinary greens. -It should be washed very carefully, and thrown -into fast-boiling salted water. The saucepan should remain -uncovered, as we wish to preserve the dark green colour. -Young Scotch kale will take about twenty minutes to boil -before it is tender. When boiled, if served as a course by -itself, it should be strained off very thoroughly and warmed in -a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, and salt. -</p> - -<p id="seakale148"> -<strong>Sea Kale</strong>.—Sea kale possesses a very delicate -flavour, and in cooking it the endeavour should be to preserve this -flavour. Throw the sea kale when washed into boiling water; in about twenty -minutes, if it is young, it will be tender. Serve it on plain dry toast, -and keep all the heads one way. <a href="#buttersauce046">Butter sauce</a>, -<a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, <a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch -sauce</a>, or <a href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a> can be -served with sea kale, but should be sent to table separate in a boat, as -the majority of good judges prefer the sea kale quite plain. -</p> - -<p id="spinach149"> -<strong>Spinach</strong>.—The chief difficulty to contend with in cooking -spinach is the preliminary cleansing. The best method of -washing spinach is to take two buckets of water. Wash it in -one; the spinach will float on the top whilst the dirt settles -at the bottom. Lift the spinach from one pail, after you have -allowed it to settle for a few minutes, into the other pail. -One or two rinsings will be sufficient. Spinach should be -picked if the stalks are large, and thrown into boiling water -slightly salted. Boil the spinach till it is tender, which will -take about a quarter of an hour, then drain it off and cut it -very small in a basin with a knife and fork, place it back -in a saucepan with a little piece of butter to make it thoroughly -hot, put it in a vegetable dish and serve. -</p> - -<p> -<a href="#hardboiledeggs081">Hard-boiled eggs</a>cut in halves, or <a -href="#poachedeggs081">poached eggs</a>, are usually served with spinach. A -little cream, nutmeg, and lemon-juice can be added. Many cooks rub the -spinach through a wire sieve. -</p> - -<p id="vegetablemarrow149"> -<strong>Vegetable Marrow</strong>.—Vegetable marrows must be first -peeled, cut open, the pips removed, and then thrown into boiling -water; small ones should be cut into quarters and large ones -into pieces about as big as the palm of the hand. They take -from fifteen to twenty minutes to boil before they are tender. -They should be served directly they are cooked and placed on -dry toast. <a href="#buttersauce046">Butter sauce</a> or <a -href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a> can be served with -them, but is best sent to table separate in a boat, as many -persons prefer them plain. -</p> - -<p id="stuffedvegetablemarrow149"> -<strong>Vegetable Marrows, Stuffed</strong>.—Young vegetable marrows -are very nice stuffed. They should be first peeled very slightly and then -cut, long-ways, into three zigzag slices; the pips should be removed and -the interior filled with either mushroom forcemeat (<em>see</em> <a -href="#mushroomforcemeat110">MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT</a>) or sage-and-onion -stuffing made with rather an extra quantity of bread-crumbs. The vegetable -marrow should be tied up with two separate loops of tape about a quarter of -the way from each end, and these two rings of tape tied together with two -or three separate pieces of tape to prevent them slipping off at the ends. -The forcemeat or stuffing should be made hot before it is placed in the -marrow. The vegetable marrow should now be thrown into boiling water and -boiled till it is tender, about twenty minutes to half an hour. Take off -the tape carefully, and be careful to place the marrow so that one half -rests on the other half, or else it will slip. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—If you place the stuffing inside cold, the vegetable -marrow will break before the inside gets hot through. -</p> - -<p id="boiledturnips150"> -<strong>Turnips, Boiled</strong>.—When turnips are young they are -best boiled whole. Peel them first very thinly, and throw them into cold -water till they are ready for the saucepan. Throw them into boiling water -slightly salted. They will probably take about twenty minutes to boil. They -can be served quite plain or with any kind of <a -href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>, <a href="#buttersauce046">butter -sauce</a>, <a href="#allemandesauce044">sauce Allemande</a>, or <a -href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch sauce</a>. In vegetarian cookery they are -perhaps best served with some other kind of vegetable. -</p> - -<p id="mashedturnips150"> -<strong>Turnips, Mashed</strong>.—Old turnips are best mashed, as they are -stringy. Boil them till they get fairly tender; they will -take from half an hour to two hours, according to age; then -rub them through a wire sieve and warm up the pulp with a -little milk, or still better, cream and a little butter; add pepper -and salt. -</p> - -<p> -N.B.—If the pulp be very moist let it stand and get rid -of the moisture gradually in a frying-pan over a very slack -fire. -</p> - -<p id="ornamentalturnips150"> -<strong>Turnips, Ornamental</strong>.—A very pretty way of serving -young turnips in vegetarian cookery is to cut them in halves -and scoop out the centre so as to form cups; the part -scooped out can be mixed with some carrot cut up into small -pieces, and some green peas, and placed in the middle of a dish -in a heap; the half-turnips forming cups can be placed round -the base of the dish and each cup filled alternately with the -red part of the carrot, chopped small and piled up, and a -spoonful of green peas. This makes a very pretty dish of -mixed vegetables. -</p> - -<p id="turniptops151"> -<strong>Turnip-tops</strong>.—Turnip-tops, when fresh cut, make very -nice and wholesome greens. They should be thrown into boiling water and -boiled for about twenty minutes, when they will be tender. They should then -be cut up with a knife and fork very finely and served like spinach. If -rubbed through a wire sieve and a little <a -href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a> mixed with them to give them -the proper colour, and served with <a href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled -eggs</a>, there are very few persons who can distinguish the dish from <a -href="#eggsandspinach085">eggs and spinach</a>. -</p> - -<p id="curriedvegetables151"> -<strong>Vegetable Curry</strong>.—A border made of all kinds of mixed -vegetables is very nice sent to table with some good thick <a -href="#currysauce050">curry -sauce</a> poured in the centre. -</p> - -<p id="toboilnettles151"> -<strong>Nettles, To Boil</strong>.—The best time to gather nettles for -eating purposes is in the early spring. They are freely eaten -in many parts of the country, as they are considered excellent -for purifying the blood. The young light-green leaves only -should be taken. They must be washed carefully and boiled -in two waters, a little salt and a very small piece of soda being -put in the last water. When tender, turn them into a colander, -press the water from them, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, -score them across three or four times, and serve. Send melted -butter to table in a tureen. Time, about a quarter of an hour -to boil. -</p> - -<p id="boiledsalsify151"> -<strong>Salsify</strong>.—Scrape the salsify and throw it into cold -water with a little vinegar. Then throw it into boiling water, boil til -tender, and serve on toast with <a href="#whitesauce059">white sauce</a>. -Time to boil, about one hour. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter9">CHAPTER IX.</h2> - - <h3>PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - Vegetables and fruits are preserved in two ways. We can - have them preserved both in bottles and tins, but the principle - is exactly the same in both cases, the method of preservation - being simply that of excluding the air. We will not enter - into the subject of how to preserve fruit and vegetables, but - will confine ourselves to discussing as briefly as possible the - best method of using them when they are preserved. - </p> - - <p> -Unfortunately there exists a very unreasonable prejudice -on the part of many persons against all kinds of provisions -that are preserved in tins. This prejudice is kept alive by -stories that occasionally get into print about families being -poisoned by using tinned goods. We hear stories also of -poisoning resulting from using copper vessels. Housekeepers -should endeavour to grasp the idea that the evil is the result -of their own ignorance, and that no danger would accrue -were they possessed of a little more elementary knowledge -of chemistry. If a penny be dipped in vinegar and exposed -to the air, and is then licked by a child, a certain amount of -ill effect would undoubtedly ensue, but it does not follow -that we should give up the use of copper money. So, too, if -we use tinned goods, and owing to our own carelessness or -ignorance find occasionally that evil results ensue, we should -not give up the use of the goods in question, but endeavour -to find out the cause why these evil results follow only -occasionally. -</p> - -<p> -All good cooks know, or ought to know, that if they leave -the soup all night in a saucepan the soup is spoilt. Again, -all housekeepers know that although they have a metal tank, -they are bound to have a wooden lid on top, there being a -law to this effect. The point they forget in using tinned goods -is this, so long as the air is excluded from the interior of the -tin no chemical action goes on whatever. When, therefore, -they open the tin, if they turn out the contents at once no harm -can ensue. Unfortunately, there are many thousands who -will open a tin, take out what they want, and <em>leave the remainder -in the tin</em>. Of course, they have only themselves to -blame should evil result. -</p> - -<p> -Preserved vegetables are so useful that they are inseparable -from civilised cookery; for instance, what would a French -cook do were he dependent for his mushrooms upon these -fresh grown in the fields? The standard dish at vegetarian -restaurants is mushroom pie, and, thanks to tinned mushrooms, -we can obtain this dish all the year round. In most -restaurants peas are on the bill of fare throughout the year. -Were we dependent upon fresh grown ones, this popular dish -would be confined almost to a few weeks. -</p> - -<p> -In the case of preserved goods, tinned fruits are even more -valuable than tinned vegetables. Ripe apricots and peaches -picked fresh from the tree are expensive luxuries that in this -country can only be indulged in by the rich, whereas, thanks -to the art of preserving, we are enabled to enjoy them all the -year round. We will run briefly through a few of the chief -vegetables and fruits, and give a few hints how to best use -them. First of all— -</p> - -<p id="tinnedasparagus153"> -<strong>Asparagus, Tinned.</strong>—Place the tin in the saucepan with -sufficient cold water to cover it. Bring the water to a boil -and let it boil for five minutes; take out the tin and cut it -open round the edge, as near to the edge as possible, otherwise -you will be apt to break the asparagus in turning it out. -Drain off the liquor and serve the asparagus on freshly made -hot toast. There is much less waste as a rule in tinned -asparagus than in that freshly cut. As a rule, you can eat -nearly the whole of it. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedpeas153"> -<strong>Peas, Tinned.</strong>—Put the tin before it is opened into cold -water, bring the water to a boil, and let it boil five minutes, or -longer if the tin is a large one. Cut open the tin at the top, -pour out the liquor, and serve the peas with a few sprigs of -fresh mint, if it can be obtained, that have been boiled for two -or three minutes. Supposing the tin to contain a pint of -peas, add while the peas are thoroughly hot a brimming saltspoonful of finely powdered sugar, and half a saltspoonful of -salt. If the peas are to be eaten by themselves, as is generally -the case with vegetarians, add a good-sized piece of butter. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedfrenchbeans154"> -<strong>French Beans, Tinned</strong>.—These can be treated in exactly -similar manner to green peas, only, instead of adding mint, -add a little chopped blanched parsley; the same quantity of -sugar and salt should be added as in the case of peas. After -the butter has melted, it is a great improvement, when the -beans are eaten as a course by themselves, with bread, if the -juice of half a lemon is added. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedflageolets154"> -<strong>Flageolets, Tinned</strong>.—For this delicious vegetable, in -England, we are dependent upon tinned goods, as we cannot -recall an instance in which they can be bought freshly -gathered. Warm up the beans in the tin by placing the tin -in cold water, bringing the water to a boil, and letting it boil -for five minutes. Drain off the liquor, add a saltspoonful of -sugar, half a one of salt, and a lump of butter. Instead of -butter, you can add to each pint two tablespoonfuls of pure -olive oil. Many persons consider it a great improvement to -rub the vegetable-dish with a bead of garlic. In this case the -beans should be tossed about in the dish for a minute or two. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedbrusselssprouts154"> -<strong>Brussels Sprouts, Tinned</strong>.—The tin should be made hot -before it is opened, the liquor drained off, and the sprouts -placed in a dish, with a little butter or oil, powdered sugar, -salt, pepper, and a slight flavouring of nutmeg. In France, in -some parts, a little cream is poured over them. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedspinach154"> -<strong>Spinach, Tinned</strong>.—Spinach is sold in tins fairly -cheap, and, quoting from the list of a large retail establishment where -prices correspond with those of the Civil Service Stores, a tin of spinach -can be obtained for fivepence-halfpenny. The spinach should be made very -hot in the tin, turned out on to a dish, and <a -href="#hardboiledeggs081">hard-boiled eggs</a>, hot, cut in halves, added. -Some people add also a little vinegar, but, unless persons’ tastes -are known beforehand, that is best added on the plate. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedcarrots154"> -<strong>Carrots, Tinned</strong>.—Young carrots can be obtained in -tins, and, as only young carrots are nice when served as a course by -themselves, these will be found a valuable addition to the vegetarian -store-cupboard. Make the carrots hot in the tin, and let the water boil, -for quite ten minutes after it comes to the boiling point. Drain off the -liquor, and serve them with some kind of <a href="#whitesauce059">white -sauce</a> exactly as if they were freshly boiled young carrots. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedturnips155"> -<strong>Turnips, Tinned.</strong>—Proceed exactly the same as in the case -of carrots. -</p> - -<p id="fonddartichokes155"> -<strong>Fond d’Artichoke.</strong>—These consist of the bottom -part only of French artichokes. They should be made hot in the tin, and -served up with some good <a href="#buttersauce046">butter sauce</a>, and -cut lemon separate, as many prefer the artichokes plain. -</p> - -<p id="macedoines155"> -<strong>Macedoines.</strong>—This, as the word implies, is a mixture -of various vegetables, the chief of which are generally chopped-up carrot -and turnip with young green peas. A very nice dish which can be served at a -very short notice, if you have <a href="#currysauce050">curry sauce</a> in -bottles, is a dish of vegetable curry. The macedoines should be made hot in -the tin, the liquor drained off, and the curry sauce, made hot, should be -poured into a well made in the centre of the macedoines in the dish. -Macedoines are also very useful, as they can be served as a vegetable salad -at a moment’s notice, as the vegetables are sufficiently cooked -without being made hot. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedfruits155"> -<strong>Tinned Fruits.</strong>—Tinned fruits are ready for eating directly -the tin is opened. All we have to bear in mind is to turn them -all out of the tin on to a dish immediately. Do not leave any -in the tin to be used at another time. Most tinned fruits can -be served just as they are, in a glass dish, but a great improvement -can be made in their appearance at a very small cost and -with a very little extra trouble if we always have in the house -a little preserved angelica and a few dried cherries. As these -cost about a shilling or one and fourpence per pound, and even -a quarter of a pound is sufficient to ornament two or three -dozen dishes, the extra expense is almost nil. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedapricots155"> -<strong>Apricots, Tinned.</strong>—Pile the apricots up, with the convex -side uppermost, in a glass dish, reserving one cup apricot to go -on the top, with the concave side uppermost. Take a few preserved -cherries, and cut them in halves, and stick half a cherry -in all the little holes or spaces where the apricots meet. Cut -four little green leaves out of the angelica about the size of the -thumb-nail, only a little longer; the size of a filbert would perhaps -describe the size better. Put a whole cherry in the -apricot cup at the top, and four green leaves of angelica round -it. Take the white kernel of the apricot—one or two will -always be found in every tin—and cut four white slices out of -the middle, place these round the red cherry, touching the -cherry, and resting between the four green leaves of angelica; -the top of this dish has now the appearance of a very pretty -flower. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedpeaches156"> -<strong>Peaches, Tinned</strong>.—These can be treated in exactly a similar -way to the apricots. -</p> - -<p id="peachesandapricotswithcream156"> -<strong>Peaches and Apricots, with Cream</strong>.—Place the fruit in a -glass dish, with the concave side uppermost; pour the syrup -round the fruit, and with a teaspoon remove any syrup that -may have settled in the little cups, for such the half-peaches or -apricots may be called. Get a small jar of Devonshire clotted -cream; take about half a teaspoonful of cream, and place it in -the middle of each cup, and place a single preserved cherry on -the top of the cream. This dish can be made still prettier -by chopping up a little green angelica, like parsley, and -sprinkling a few of these little green specks on the white -cream. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedpineapple156"> -<strong>Pine-apple, Tinned</strong>.—Pine-apples are preserved in tins -whole, and are very superior in flavour to those which are sold -cheap on barrows, which are more rotten than ripe. They -require very little ornamenting, but the top is greatly improved -by placing a red cherry in the centre, and cutting eight strips -of green angelica like spikes, reaching from the cherry to the -edge of the pine-apple. They should be cut in exact lengths, -so as not to overlap. The top of the pine-apple looks like a -green star with a red centre. -</p> - -<p id="tinnedpears156"> -<strong>Pears, Tinned</strong>.—Tinned pears are exceedingly nice in -flavour, but the drawback to them is their appearance. They -look like pale and rather dirty wax, while the syrup with which -they are surrounded resembles the water in which potatoes have -been over-boiled. The prettiest way of sending them to table -is as follows:—Take, say a teacupful of rice, wash it very carefully, -boil it, and let it get dry and cold. Take the syrup -from the pears and taste it, and if not sweet enough add some -powdered sugar. Put the rice in a glass dish, and make a very -small well in the centre, and pour all the syrup into this, so -that it soaks into the rice at the bottom of the dish without -affecting the appearance of the surface. In the meantime, -place the pears themselves on a dish, and let the syrup drain -off them, and if you can let them stand for an hour or two to -let them dry all the better. Now, with an ordinary brush, -paint these waxy-looking pears a bright red with a little -cochineal, and place these half-pears on the white rice, slanting, -with the thick part downwards and the stalk end uppermost. -Cut a few sticks of green angelica about an inch and a half -long and of the thickness of the ordinary stalk of a pear, and -stick one of these into the stalk end of each pear. The red -pear, with the green stalk resting on the snow-white bed of -rice, looks very pretty. A little chopped angelica can be -sprinkled over the white rice, like chopped parsley. -</p> - -<p id="bottledfruits157"> -<strong>Fruits, Bottled</strong>.—When apricots and peaches are -preserved in bottles, they can be treated exactly in a similar manner to -those preserved in tins. It will be found advisable, however, to taste the -syrup in the bottle, as it will be often found that it requires the -addition of a little more sugar. Ordinary bottled fruits, such as -gooseberries, currants, raspberries, rhubarb, damsons, cranberries, etc., -can be used for making fruit pies, or they can be sent to table simply as -stewed fruit. In this case some whipped cream on the top is a very great -improvement. Another very nice way of sending these bottled fruits to table -is to fill <a href="#riceborder064">a border made with rice</a>, as -described in Chapter III. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter10">CHAPTER X.</h2> - - <h3>JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - By vegetarian jelly we mean jellies made on vegetarian principles. - To be consistent, if we cannot use anchovy sauce - because it is made from fish, on the same principle we cannot - use either gelatine or isinglass, which, of course, as everybody - knows, is made from fishes. For all this, there is no reason - why vegetarians should not enjoy jellies quite equal, so far - as flavour is concerned, to ordinary jelly. The simplest substitute - for gelatine, or what is virtually the same thing, isinglass, - is corn-flour. Tapioca could be used, but corn-flour saves - much trouble. Some persons may urge that it is not fair to give - the name of jelly to a corn-flour pudding. There is, however, - a very great difference between a corn-flour pudding flavoured - with orange, and what we may call an orange jelly, in which - corn-flour is only introduced, like gelatine, for the purpose of - transforming a liquid into a solid. - </p> - - <p> -We also have this advantage in using corn-flour: it is -much more simple and can be utilised for making a very large -variety of jellies, many of which, probably, will be new even -to vegetarians themselves. We are all agreed on one point, -<em>i.e.</em>, the wholesomeness of freshly picked ripe fruit. We will -suppose the season to be autumn and the blackberries ripe on -the hedgerows, and that the children of the family are nothing -loth to gather, say, a couple of quarts. We will now describe -how to make a mould of— -</p> - -<p id="blackberryjelly158"> -<strong>Blackberry Jelly</strong>.—Put the blackberries in an enamelled -saucepan with a little water at the bottom, and let them stew -gently till they yield up their juice, or they can be placed -in a jar in the oven. They can now be strained through a -hair sieve, but, still better, they can be squeezed dry in a -tamis cloth. This juice should now be sweetened, and it can -be made into jelly in two ways, both of which are perfectly -lawful in vegetarian cookery. The juice, like red currant -juice, can be boiled with a large quantity of white sugar till -the jelly sets of its own accord; in this case we should require -one pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and the result would -be a blackberry jelly like red currant jelly, more like a preserve -than the jelly we are accustomed to eat at dinner alone. -For instance, no one would care to eat a quantity of red currant -jelly like we should ordinary orange or lemon jelly—it would -be too sickly; consequently we will take a pint or a quart of our -blackberry juice only and sufficient sugar to make it agreeably -sweet without being sickly. We will boil this in a saucepan -and add a tablespoonful of corn-flour mixed with a little cold juice -to every pint to make the juice thick. This can be now poured -into a mould or plain round basin; we will suppose the latter. -When the jelly has got quite cold we can turn it out on to a -dish, say a silver dish, with a piece of white ornamental paper -at the bottom. We now have to ornament this mould of blackberry -jelly, and, as a rule, it will be found that no ornament -can surpass natural ones. Before boiling the blackberries for -the purpose of extracting their juice, pick out two or three -dozen of the largest and ripest, wash them and put them by -with some of the young green leaves of the blackberry plant -itself, which should be picked as nearly as possible of the same -size, and, like the blackberries, must be washed. Now place a -row of blackberry leaves round the base of the mould, with the -stalk of the leaf under the mould, and on each leaf place a -ripe blackberry touching the mould itself. Take four very -small leaves and stick them on the top of the mould, in the -centre, and put the largest and best-looking blackberry of all -upright in the centre. This dish is now pretty-looking enough -to be served on really great occasions. We consider this dish -worthy of being called blackberry jelly, and not corn-flour -pudding. -</p> - -<p id="lemonjelly159"> -<strong>Lemon Jelly</strong>.—Take six lemons and half a pound of sugar, -and rub the sugar on the outside of three of the lemons; the -lemons must be hard and yellow, the peel should not be -shrivelled. Now squeeze the juice of all six lemons into a -basin, add the sugar and a pint of water. Of course, the -lemon-juice must be strained. (If wine is allowed, add half a -pint of good golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring this to the -boil and thicken it with some corn-flour in the ordinary way, -allowing a tablespoonful of corn-flour for every pint of fluid. -Pour it into a mould and when it is set turn it out. A lemon -jelly like this should be turned on to a piece of ornamental -paper placed at the bottom of a silver or some other kind of -dish. The base of the mould should be ornamented with thin -slices of lemon cut in half, the diameter touching the base of -the mould and the semicircular piece of peel outside. If a -round basin has been used for a mould, place a corner of a -lemon on the top in the middle, surrounded with a few imitation -green leaves cut out of angelica. This improves the dish in -appearance and also shows what the dish is made of. -</p> - -<p id="orangejelly160"> -<strong>Orange Jelly</strong>.—Take six oranges, two lemons, and half a -pound of lump sugar; rub the sugar on the outside of three -of the oranges, squeeze the juice of the six oranges into a basin -with the juice of two lemons, strain, add the sugar and a pint -of water. The liquid will be of an orange colour, owing to the -rind of the orange rubbed on to the sugar. (If wine be -allowed, add half a pint of golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring -the liquid to boiling point and then thicken it with corn-flour, -and pour it while hot into a mould or plain white basin; when -cold, turn it out on to a piece of ornamental paper placed at -the bottom of a dish; surround the bottom of the mould with -thin slices of orange cut into quarters and the centre part -pushed under the mould; place the small end of an orange -on the top of the mould with some little leaves or spikes of -green angelica placed round the edge. -</p> - -<p id="blackcurrantjelly160"> -<strong>Black Currant Jelly</strong>.—The juice of black currants makes -excellent jelly in the ordinary way if we boil a pint of black -currant juice with a pound of sugar till it sets; but a mould -of black currant jelly suitable to be used as a sweet at dinner -can be made by adding less sugar and thickening the juice with -corn-flour, allowing about a tablespoonful to every pint, and -pouring it into a mould or plain round basin. The mould -can be ornamented as follows, and we will suppose a pudding-basin -to be used for the purpose. We will suppose the mould -of jelly to have been turned out on to a clean sheet of white -paper. Pick some of the brighter green black-currant leaves -off the tree, and place these round the base of the mould with -the stalk of the leaf pushed underneath and the point of the -leaf pointing outwards. Now choose a few very small bunches -of black currants, wash these and dip them into very weak -gum and water, and then dip them into white powdered sugar. -They now look, when they are dry, as if they were crystallised -or covered with hoar-frost. Place one of these little bunches, -with the stalk stuck into the mould of jelly, about an inch -from the bottom, so that each bunch rests on a green leaf. Cut -a small stick of angelica and stick it into the top of the mould -upright, and let a bunch of frosted black currants hang over -the top. If we wish to make the mould of jelly very pretty -as a supper dish, where there is a good top light, we can dip -the green leaves into weak gum and water and then sprinkle -over them some powdered glass. -</p> - -<p id="redcurrantjelly161"> -<strong>Red Currant Jelly</strong>.—Red currant jelly can be made in -exactly a similar manner, substituting red currants for black. -</p> - -<p id="raspberryjelly161"> -<strong>Raspberry Jelly</strong>.—The raspberries should be picked very -ripe, and two or three dozen of the best-looking ones of the -largest and ripest should be reserved for ornamenting. If -possible, also gather some red currants and mix with the raspberries, -on account of the colour, which otherwise would be -very poor indeed. It will be found best to rub the raspberries -through a hair sieve, as the addition of the pulp very much -improves the flavour of the jelly. The sieve should be sufficiently -fine to prevent the pips of the raspberries passing -through it. The juice and pulp from the raspberries and -currants can now be thickened with corn-flour as directed in -the recipe for blackberry jelly. Raspberry leaves should be -placed round the base of the jelly and a ripe raspberry placed -on each. The best-looking raspberry can be placed on the top -of the mould in the centre of two or three raspberry leaves -stuck in the jelly. -</p> - -<p id="applejamandjelly161"> -<strong>Apple Jam and Apple Jelly</strong>.—The following recipe is -taken from “A Year’s Cookery,” by Phyllis Brown:—“The -best time for making apple jelly is about the middle of -November. Almost all kinds of apples may be used for the -purpose, though, if a clear white jelly is wanted, Colvilles or -orange-pippins should be chosen; if red jelly is preferred, very -rosy-cheeked apples should be taken, and the skins should be -boiled with the fruit. Apple jam is made of the fruit after -the juice has been drawn off for jelly. Economical house-*keepers -will find that very excellent jelly can be made of -apple parings, so that where apples in any quantity have -been used for pies and tarts the skins can be stewed in sufficient -water to cover them, and when the liquor is strongly flavoured -it can be strained and boiled with sugar to a jelly. To make -apple jelly, pare, core and slice the apples and put them into -a preserving-pan with enough water to cover them. Stir -them occasionally and stew gently till the apples have fallen, -then turn all into a jelly-bag and strain away the juice, but -do not squeeze or press the pulp. Measure the liquid and -allow a pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Put both juice and -sugar back into the preserving-pan, and, if liked, add one or -two cloves tied in muslin, or two or three inches of lemon-rind. -Boil gently and skim carefully for about half an hour, -or till a little of the jelly put upon a plate will set. Pour it -while hot into jars, and when cold and stiff cover down in the -usual way. If yellow jelly is wanted a pinch of saffron tied -in muslin should be boiled with the juice. To make apple jam, -weigh the apple pulp after the juice has been drawn from it, -rub it through a hair sieve, and allow one pound of sugar to -one pint of pulp, and the grated rind of a lemon to three -pints of pulp. Boil all gently together till the jam will set -when a little is put on a plate. Apple jam is sometimes -flavoured with vanilla instead of lemon.” -</p> - -<p id="damsonjelly162"> -<strong>Damson Jelly</strong>.—Damson jelly can be made in two ways. -The juice can be boiled with sugar till it gets like red currant -jelly, or the juice of the damsons can be sweetened with less sugar -and thickened with corn-flour. In order to extract the juice from -damsons they should be sliced and placed in a jar or basin and -put in the oven. They are best left in the oven all night. If -the mould of jelly is made in a round basin, a single whole -damson can be placed on the top of the mould and green -leaves placed round the base. -</p> - -<p id="pineapplejelly162"> -<strong>Pine-apple Jelly</strong>.—The syrup from a preserved pine, -should the pine-apple itself be used for mixing with other -fruits, or for ornamental purposes, can be utilised by being -made into a mould of jelly and by being thickened with corn-flour. -It will bear the addition of a little water. -</p> - -<p id="apricotjelly163"> -<strong>Apricot Jelly</strong>.—The juice from tinned apricots can be -treated like that of pine-apple. When a mixture of fruits is -served in a large bowl, the syrup from tinned fruits should not -be added, but at the same time, of course, should be used in -some other way. -</p> - -<p id="mulberryjelly163"> -<strong>Mulberry Jelly</strong>.—Mullberries, of course, would not be -bought for the purpose, but those who possess a mulberry tree -in their garden will do well to utilise what are called windfalls -by making mulberry jelly. The juice can be extracted by -placing the fruit in a jar and putting it in the oven; sugar -must be added, and the juice thickened with corn-flour. There -are few other ways of using unripe mulberries. -</p> - -<p id="jams163"> -<strong>Jams</strong>.—Home-made jam is not so common now as it was -some years back. As a rule, it does not answer from an economical -point of view to <em>buy</em> fruit to make jam. On the other -hand, those who possess a garden will find home-made jam a -great saving. Those who have attempted to sell their fruit -probably know this to their cost. In making every kind of -jam it is essential the fruit should be picked dry. It is also a -time-honoured tradition that the fruit is best picked when -basking in the morning sun. It is also necessary that the -fruit should be free from dust, and that all decayed or rotten -fruit should be carefully picked out. -</p> - -<p> -Jam is made by boiling the fruit with sugar, and it is false -economy to get common sugar; cheap sugar throws up a quantity -of scum. Years back many persons used brown sugar, -but in the present day the difference in the price of brown and -white sugar is so trifling that the latter should always be used -for the purpose. The sugar should not be crushed. It is best -to boil the fruit before adding the sugar. The scum should be -removed, and a wooden spoon used for the purpose. A large -enamel stew-pan can be used, but tradition is in favour of a -brass preserving-pan. It will be found best to boil the fruit as -rapidly as possible. The quantity of sugar varies slightly with -the fruit used. Supposing we have a pound of fruit, the -following list gives what is generally considered about the -proper quantity of sugar -</p> - -<p id="apricotjam164"> -APRICOT JAM.—Three-quarters of a pound. -</p> - -<p id="blackberryjam164"> -BLACKBERRY JAM.—Half a pound; if apple is mixed, rather -more. -</p> - -<p id="blackcurrantjam164"> -BLACK CURRANT JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="redcurrantjam164"> -RED CURRANT JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="damsonjam164"> -DAMSON JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="gooseberryjam164"> -GOOSEBERRY JAM.—Three-quarters of a pound. -</p> - -<p id="greengagejam164"> -GREENGAGE JAM.—Three-quarters of a pound. -</p> - -<p id="plumjam164"> -PLUM JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="raspberryjam164"> -RASPBERRY JAM.—One pound. -</p> - -<p id="strawberryjam164"> -STRAWBERRY JAM.—Three-quarters of a pound. -</p> - -<p id="carrotjam164"> -CARROT JAM.—If you wish the jam to be of a good colour, -only use the outside or red part of the carrots. Add the rind -and the juice of one lemon, and one pound of sugar to every -pound of pulp; a little brandy is a great improvement. -</p> - -<p id="rhubarbjam164"> -RHUBARB JAM.—To every pound of pulp add three-quarters -of a pound of sugar, and the juice of one lemon and the rind -of half a lemon. Essence of almonds can be substituted for -the lemon. -</p> - -<p id="vegetablemarrowjam164"> -VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.—Add three-quarters of a pound -of sugar to every pound of pulp. The jam can be flavoured -either with ginger or lemon-juice. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter11">CHAPTER XI.</h2> - - <h3>CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESE-CAKES.</h3> - - <p id="creams165"> - <strong>Creams</strong>.—Creams may be divided into two - classes—whipped cream, flavoured in a variety of ways, and the - solid moulds of cream, which when turned out look extremely elegant, - but which when tasted are somewhat disappointing. These latter moulds - owe their firmness and consistency to the addition of isinglass, and, - as this substance is not allowed in vegetarian cookery, we shall be - able to dispense with cream served in this form, nor are we losers by - so doing. The ordinary mould of cream is too apt to taste like spongy - liver, and, so far as palate is concerned, is incomparably inferior to - the more delicate whipped creams. Just in the same way a good rich - custard made with yolks of eggs is spoilt by being turned into a solid - custard by the addition of gelatine. In order to have good whipped - cream, the first essential is to obtain pure cream. This greatly - depends upon the neighbourhood in which we live. In country houses, - away from large towns, there is as a rule no trouble, whereas in London - really good cream can only be obtained with great difficulty. There is - a well-known old story of the London milkman telling the cook who - complained of the quality of the cream to stir it up, as the cream - settled at the bottom. We will not enter into the subject of the - adulteration of cream in big cities, as probably many of these stories - are gross exaggerations, though it is said that pigs’ brains and - even horses’ brains have been used for the purpose of giving the - cream a consistency, while undoubtedly turmeric has been used to give - it a colour. - </p> - -<p> -We will suppose that we have, say, a quart of really good -thick cream. All that is necessary is to beat up the cream -with a whisk till it becomes a froth. This is much more easily -done in cold weather than in hot, and, if the weather be very -warm, it is best to put the tin or pan containing the cream -into ice an hour or two before it is used. Old French cookery-books -recommend the addition of a little powdered gum, not -bigger than a pea, and the gum recommended is that known -as tragacanth. Others again beat up the white of an egg to a -stiff froth, and add this to the cream. It is a good plan when -the cream fails to froth completely to take off the top froth -and drain it on a sieve placed upside down. The cream that -drains through can be added to what is left and re-whipped. -It is also a good plan to make whipped cream some time before -it is wanted, and, indeed, it can be prepared with advantage the -day before. When the cream is drained (we are supposing a -quart to have been used) it should be mixed with three or -four ounces of very finely powdered sugar, as well as the particular -kind of flavouring that will give the cream its name. -For instance, we can have, if liqueurs are allowed— -</p> - -<p id="maraschinocream166"> -<strong>Maraschino Cream</strong>.—This is simply made by mixing a -small glass of maraschino with some whipped cream, properly -sweetened. -</p> - -<p id="coffeecream166"> -<strong>Coffee Cream</strong>.—Make a very strong infusion of pure coffee -that has been roasted a high colour. It will be found best to -re-roast coffee berries in the oven if you have not got a -proper coffee-roaster. Pound the berries in a pestle and mortar, -or grind them very coarsely; then make a strong infusion with -a very small quantity of water, and strain it till it is quite -bright. This is mixed with the whipped sweetened cream. -</p> - -<p id="chocolatecream166"> -<strong>Chocolate Cream</strong>.—Take about two ounces of the very best -chocolate and dissolve it in a little boiling water; let it get -cold, and then mix with the whipped sweetened cream. -</p> - -<p id="vanillacream166"> -<strong>Vanilla Cream</strong>.—Vanilla cream is nicest when a fresh -vanilla pod is used for the purpose, but a more simple process -is to use a little essence of vanilla. -</p> - -<p id="orangecream166"> -<strong>Orange Cream</strong>.—Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside -of an orange, and pound this sugar very finely, and then mix -it with the whipped cream. -</p> - -<p id="lemoncream166"> -<strong>Lemon Cream</strong>.—Proceed exactly as in making orange -cream, only substituting lemon for orange. -</p> - -<p id="strawberrycream167"> -<strong>Strawberry Cream</strong>.—The juice only of the strawberry -should be used. This juice should be mixed with the powdered -sugar and then used for mixing with the whipped cream. It -is a mistake, in making creams, to have too much flavouring. -The juice of a quarter of a pound of ripe red strawberries -would be sufficient for a quart of cream. -</p> - -<p id="pistachiocream167"> -<strong>Pistachio Cream</strong>.—Take about half a pound of pistachio -kernels, throw them for a minute or two into boiling water, -and then rub off the skins, throwing them into cold water like -you do in blanching almonds. Pound these in a mortar with -a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix a little spinach -extract to give it a colour. Now mix this with the whipped -sweetened cream very thoroughly. This bright green cream -makes a very elegant dish. -</p> - -<p id="custards167"> -<strong>Custards</strong>.—Good custard forms, perhaps, the best cold sweet -sauce known. It can be made very cheaply, and, on the other -hand, it may be made in such a manner as to be very expensive. -We will first describe how to make the most expensive kind of -custard, as very often we can gather ideas from a high-class -model and carry them out in an inexpensive way. The highest -class custard is made by only using yolks of eggs instead of -whole eggs, and we can use cream in addition to milk. The -great art in making custard is to take care it does not curdle. -Six yolks of eggs, half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, -sweetened, would, of course, form a very expensive custard. -An ordinary custard can be made as follows:—Take four large -or five small eggs, beat them up very thoroughly, and add them -gradually to a pint of sweetened milk that has been boiled separately. -In order to thicken the custard, it is a good plan to put -it in a jug and stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and -stir the custard till it is sufficiently thick. Custard can be -flavoured in various ways. One of the cheapest and perhaps -nicest is to boil one or two bay-leaves in the milk. Custard -can also be flavoured by the addition of a small quantity of -the essence of vanilla; if you use a fresh pod vanilla, tie it up -in a little piece of muslin and have a string to it. This can be -boiled in the milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured, and -this pod can be used over and over again. Of course, as it -loses its flavour, it will have to remain in the milk longer. -</p> - -<p id="cheapcustard168"> -<strong>Cheap Custard.</strong>—A very cheap custard can be made by -adding to one pint of boiled milk one well-beaten-up egg and one -good-sized teaspoonful of corn-flour. The milk should be first -sweetened, and can be flavoured very cheaply by rubbing a few -lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or by having a few -bay-leaves boiled in it. A rich yellow colour can be obtained -by using a small quantity of yellow vegetable colouring extract, -which, like the green colouring, is sold in bottles by all grocers. -These bottles are very cheap, as they last a long time. They -simply give any kind of pudding a rich colouring without -imparting any flavour whatever, and in this respect are very -superior to saffron. -</p> - -<p id="applecustard168"> -<strong>Apple Custard.</strong>—Good apple custard can only be made by -using apples of a good flavour. When apples are in season, -this dish can be made fairly cheaply, but it does not do to use -those high-priced imported apples. Peel and take out the cores -of about four pounds of apples, and let these simmer till they -are quite tender in rather more than a pint of water. Add -about one pound of sugar, or rather less if the apples are sweet; -add a little powdered cinnamon, and mix all this with eight -eggs, well beaten up; stir the mixture very carefully in a saucepan, -or better still in a good-sized jug placed in a saucepan, -till it begins to thicken. This custard is best served in -glasses, and a little cinnamon sugar can be shaken over the -top. Nutmeg may be used instead of cinnamon, and by many -is thought superior. -</p> - -<p id="cheesecakes165"> -<strong>Cheese-cakes.</strong>—Cheese-cakes can be sent to table in two -forms, the one some rich kind of custard or cream placed in -little round pieces of pastry, or we can have a so-called cheese-cake -baked in a pie-dish, the edges only of which are lined with -puff paste. We can also have cheese-cakes very rich and -cheese-cakes very plain. The origin of the name cheese-cake is -that originally they were made from curds used in making cheese. -Probably most people consider that the cheese-cakes made from -curds are superior, and in the North of England, and especially -in Yorkshire, where curds are exposed for sale in the windows at -so much a pound, very delicious cheese-cakes can be made, but -considerable difficulty will be experienced if we attempt to -make home-made curds from London milk. Curds are made -by taking any quantity of milk and letting it nearly boil, -then throw in a little rennet or a glass of sherry. The curds -must be well strained. -</p> - -<p id="cheesecakesfromcurds169"> -<strong>Cheese-cakes from Curds</strong>.—Take half a pound of curds -and press the curds in a napkin to extract the moisture. Take -also six ounces of lump sugar, and rub the sugar on the outside -of a couple of oranges or lemons. Dissolve this sugar in -two ounces of butter made hot in a tin in the oven; mix this -with the curds, with two ounces of powdered ratafias and a -little grated nutmeg—about half a nutmeg to this quantity -will be required; add also six yolks of eggs. Mix this well -together, and fill the tartlet cases, made from puff paste, and -bake them in the oven. It is often customary to place in the -centre of each cheese-cake a thin strip of candied peel. As -soon as the cheese-cakes are done, take them out of the oven, -and if the mixture be of a bad colour finish it off with a -salamander, but do not let them remain in the oven too long, -so that the pastry becomes brittle and dried up. These -cheese-cakes can be made on a larger scale than the ordinary -one so familiar to all who have looked into a pastry-cook’s -window. Suppose we make them of the size of a breakfast -saucer, a very rich and delicious cheese-cake can be made -by adding some chopped dried cherries to the mixture. Sometimes -ordinary grocer’s currants are added and the ratafias -omitted. Sultana raisins can be used instead of currants, and -by many are much preferred. -</p> - -<p> -This mixture can be baked in a shallow pie-dish and time -edge of the dish lined with puff paste, but cheese-cakes made -from curds are undoubtedly expensive. -</p> - -<p id="potatocheesecake169"> -<strong>Cheese-cakes from Potatoes</strong>.—Exceedingly nice cheese-cakes -can be made from remains of cold potatoes, and can be -made very cheap by increasing the quantity of potatoes used. -Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, two fresh -lemons, and half a pound of lump sugar. First of all rub -off all the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar; oil the -butter in a tin in the oven and melt the sugar in it; squeeze -the juice of the two lemons, and take care that the sugar is -thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix all the ingredients -together. Now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix the -whole in a basin. This now forms a very rich mixture indeed, -a good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the -interior of an ordinary-sized cheese-cake, but a far better plan -is to make a large cheese-cake, or rather cheese-cake pudding, -in a pie-dish by adding cold boiled potatoes. The plainness or -richness of the pudding depends entirely upon the amount of -potatoes added. The pie-dish can be lined with a little puff -paste round the edge, if preferred, or the pudding can be sent -to table plain. It should be baked in the oven till the top is -nicely browned. It can be served either hot or cold, but, in -our opinion, is nicer cold. If the lemons are very fresh and -green—if the pudding is sent to table <em>hot</em>—you will often -detect the smell of turpentine. If a <em>large quantity</em> of potatoes -is added more sugar will be required. -</p> - -<p id="orangecheesecake170"> -<strong>Orange Cheese-cake</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above, only substituting -two oranges for two lemons. -</p> - -<p id="almondcheesecakes170"> -<strong>Almond Cheese-cakes</strong>.—Proceed exactly as above, only -instead of rubbing the sugar on the outside of lemons add -a small quantity of essence of almonds. -</p> - -<p id="applecheesecakes170"> -<strong>Apple Cheese-cakes</strong>.—Apple cheese-cakes can be made -in a similar manner to <a href="#applecustard168">apple custard</a>, the -only difference being that the mixture is baked till it sets. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter12">CHAPTER XII.</h2> - - <h3>STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - There are few articles of diet more wholesome than fruit, in - every shape, provided it is <em>fresh</em>. It is a great mistake, however, - to suppose that fruit, when too stale to be eaten as it is, is yet - good enough for stewing. We often hear, especially in summer - weather, of persons being made ill from eating fruit. Probably - in every case the injury results, not from eating fruit as fruit, - but from eating it when it is too stale to be served as an article - of food at all. There is an immense amount of injury done to - this country by the importation of rotten plums, more especially - from Germany, and it is to be regretted that more stringent - laws are not made to prevent the importation of all kinds of - food hurtful to health. - </p> - - <p> -We will suppose that in every recipe we are about to give -the fruit is at any rate fresh; we do not say ripe, because -there are many instances in which fruit not ripe enough to be -eaten raw is exceedingly wholesome when stewed properly and -sweetened. As an instance we may mention green gooseberries -and hard greengages, which, though quite uneatable in -their natural state, yet make delicious fruit pies or dishes of -stewed fruit. Of all dishes there are few to equal what is -called a compote of fruit, and there are probably few sweets -more popular than— -</p> - -<p id="compoteoffruit171"> -<strong>Compote of Fruit</strong>.—A compote of fruit consists of a variety -of fresh fruits mixed together in a bowl. Some may be stewed -and some served in their natural state, or the whole may be -stewed. When a large variety of fruits can be obtained, and -are sent to table in an old-fashioned china family bowl, few -dishes present a more elegant appearance, especially if you -happen to possess an old-fashioned punch ladle, an old silver -bowl with a black whalebone handle. Care should be taken -to keep the fruit from being broken. The following fruits -will mix very well, although, of course, it is impossible always -to obtain every variety. We can have strawberries, raspberries, -red, white, and black currants, and cherries, as well -as peaches, nectarines, and apricots. We can also have stewed -apples and stewed pears. Very much, of course, will depend -upon the time of year. Those fruits that want stewing -should be placed in some hot syrup previously made, and -only allowed to stew till tender enough to be eaten. Tinned -fruits, especially apricots, can be mixed with fresh fruits, only -it is best not to use the syrup in the tin, as it will probably -overpower the flavour of the other fruits. The syrup, as far -as possible, should be bright and not cloudy. The fruit in the -bowl should be mixed, but should not be stirred up. We should -endeavour as much as possible to keep the colours distinct. -If strawberries or raspberries form part of the compote, the -syrup will get red. Should black currants be present, avoid -breaking them, as they spoil the appearance of the syrup. In -summer the compote of fruits is much improved by the addition -of a lump of ice and a glass of good old brandy. Should the -compote of fruits, as is often the case, be intended for a garden -party, where it will have to stand a long time, if possible get -a small bowl, like those in which gold and silver fish are sold -in the street for sixpence, and fill this with ice and place it in -the middle of the larger bowl containing fruit, otherwise the -melted ice will utterly spoil the juice that runs from the fruit, -which is sweetened with the syrup and flavoured with the -brandy. If much brandy be added, old ladies at garden -parties will be found to observe that the juice is the best part -of it. -</p> - -<p id="stewedapples172"> -<strong>Apples, Stewed</strong>.—Peel and cut out the cores of the apples, -and stew them gently in some syrup composed of about half a -pound of white sugar and rather more than a pint of water. -A small stick of cinnamon, or a few cloves, and a strip of -lemon-peel can be added to the syrup, but should be taken out -when finished. The apples should be stewed till they are -tender, but must not be broken. The syrup in which the -apples are stewed should of course be served with them. This -syrup can be coloured slightly with a few drops of cochineal, -but should not be coloured more than very slightly. The syrup -looks a great deal better if it is clear and bright. It can be -strained and clarified. Apples are very nice stewed in white -French wine, such as Chablis or Graves. -</p> - -<p id="stewedpears173"> -<strong>Stewed Pears</strong>.—Pears known as cooking pears take a -long time to stew. They should be peeled and the cores removed, -and then stewed very gently in a syrup composed of -half a pound of sugar to about a pint and a half of water; add -a few cloves to the syrup, say two cloves to each pear. The -pears will probably take from two to three hours to stew before -they are tender. When tender add a glass of port wine and a -little cochineal. If the pears are stewed, like they are abroad, -in claret, add cinnamon instead of the cloves. -</p> - -<p id="stewedrhubarb173"> -<strong>Stewed Rhubarb</strong>.—Stewed rhubarb is of two kinds. When -it first comes into season it is small, tender, and of a bright -red colour, and when stewed makes a very pretty dish. The -red rhubarb should be cut into little pieces about two inches -long. Very little water will be required, as the fruit contains -a great deal of water in itself. The amount of sugar added -depends entirely upon taste. The stewed rhubarb should be -sent to table unbroken, and floating in a bright red juice. -</p> - -<p> -When rhubarb is old and green it is best served more like -a purée, or mashed. Very old rhubarb is often stringy, -and can with advantage be rubbed through a wire sieve. It is -no use attempting to colour old rhubarb red, but you can improve -its colour by the addition of a very little <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach extract</a>. -A few strips of lemon-peel can be stewed with old rhubarb, but -should never be added to young red rhubarb. -</p> - -<p id="stewedgooseberries173"> -<strong>Gooseberries, Stewed.</strong>—Young green gooseberries stewed, -strange to say, require less sugar than ripe gooseberries. It is -best to stew the fruit first, and add the sugar afterwards. -The amount of sugar varies very much with the quality of the -gooseberries. -</p> - -<p id="stewedprunes173"> -<strong>Prunes, Stewed</strong>.—The prunes should be washed before they -are stewed. They will not take more than half an hour to -stew, and a strip of lemon-peel should be placed in the juice. -Stewed prunes are much improved by the addition of a little -port wine. -</p> - -<p id="stewedplums174"> -<strong>Plums, Stewed</strong>.—Stewed plums, such as black, ordinary, -or greengages, or indeed any kind of stone fruit, can be stewed -in syrup, and have this advantage—plums can be used this -way which could not be eaten at all if they were raw. These -fruits are much nicer cold than hot. In many cases, in stewing -stone fruit (and this applies particularly to peaches, apricots, -and nectarines), the stones should be removed and cracked -and the kernels added to the fruit. -</p> - -<p id="stewedcherries174"> -<strong>Cherries, Stewed</strong>.—Large white-heart cherries form a very -delicate dish when stewed. Very little water should be added, -and the syrup should be kept as white as possible, and, if -necessary, strained. Stew the cherries till they are tender, -but do not let them break. Colour the syrup with a few drops -of cochineal, and add a glass of maraschino. -</p> - -<p id="ices174"> -<strong>Ices</strong>.—Ices are too often regarded as expensive luxuries, -and show how completely custom rules the majority of our -housekeepers. There are many houses where the dinner may -consist daily of soup, fish, entrées, joint, game, and wine, and -yet, were we to suggest a course of ices, the worthy housekeeper -would hesitate on the ground of extravagance. It is difficult -to argue with persons whose definition of economy is what -they have always been accustomed to since they were children, -and whose definition of extravagance is anything new. The -fact remains, however, that there is many a worthy signor who -sells ices in the streets at a penny each, and manages to make -a living out of the profit not only for himself, but for his -signora as well. Under these circumstances, the manufacture -of these “extravagances” is worthy of inquiry. Ices can be -made at home very cheaply with an ice machine, which can -now be obtained at a, comparatively speaking, small cost. -With a machine there is absolutely no trouble, and directions -will be given with each machine, so that any details here, -which vary with the machine, will be useless. Ices can be -made at home without a machine with a little trouble, and, to -explain how to do this, it is necessary to explain the theory of -ice-making, which is exceedingly simple. We will not allude -to machines dependent on freezing-powders, but to those which -rely for their cold simply on ice and salt mixed. We will suppose -we want a lemon-water ice, <em>i.e.</em>, we have made some very -strong and sweet lemonade, and we want to freeze it. It is -well known that water will freeze at a certain temperature, -called freezing-point. By mixing chopped ice and salt and -a very little water together, a far greater degree of cold can -be immediately produced, viz., a thermometer would stand at -32° below freezing-point were it to be plunged into this mixture. -An ice machine is a metal pail placed in another pail -much larger than itself. The “sweet lemonade” is placed in -the middle pail, and chopped ice and salt placed outside it. -The proportion of ice to salt should be double the weight of -the former to the latter. It is now obvious that if we have -filled two pails, the one with “the sweet lemonade,” and the -other with the ice and salt, very soon our lemonade will be a -solid block of ice. To prevent this it must be constantly -stirred, and, as the lemonade would of course freeze first against -the sides of the pail, these sides must be constantly scraped. -Inside the inner pail, consequently, there is a stirrer, which, -by means of a handle, continually scrapes the side of the pail. -It is obvious that if the stirrer is fixed, and the pail itself -made to revolve, that is the same as if the pail were fixed and -the stirrer made to revolve. To make lemon-water ice, therefore, -place the lemonade in the inner pail, surrounded with -chopped ice and salt, two parts of the former to one of the -latter, turn the handle, and in a few minutes the ice is made. -Now, suppose you have not got a machine, proceed as follows: -Take an empty, clean, round coffee-tin (the larger the better). -[We mention coffee-tin as the most probable one to be in the -house, but any round tin will do.] Get a clean piece of wood, -the same width as the inside diameter of the tin, only it must -be a great deal longer. We will suppose the tin rather more -than a foot deep and five inches in diameter. Our piece of -wood, which should be clean and smooth, must be nearly five -inches wide, say a quarter of an inch thick, and about two feet -long. Next get a small tub, say nine inches deep, place the -round tin in the middle, with the sweet lemonade inside; next -place the piece of wood upright in the tin, so that the wood -touches the bottom. Next surround the tin with chopped ice -and salt up to the edge of the tub, fill it as high as you can, -and then cover it round with a blanket, <em>i.e.</em>, cover the ice and -salt. Now get someone to hold the wooden board steady; -take the tin in your two hands, and turn it round and round, -first one way and then another. In a very short time you -will find the tin to contain lemon-water ice. The following -hints, rather than recipes, for making ices, <em>i.e.</em>, for making the -liquid, which must be frozen as directed above, are given, not -because they are the best recipes, but because cream, which -is the basis of all first-class ices, is often too expensive to be -used constantly. Of course, real cream is far superior to any -substitute. -</p> - -<p id="cheapicecream176"> -<strong>Ice Cream, Cheap</strong>.—Make a custard (<em>see</em> <a -href="#custards167">CUSTARD</a>) with half a pint of milk, the yolks of two -eggs, and a tablespoonful of Swiss milk and some sugar. As soon as it gets -a little thick, stir it till it is nearly cold, then add some essence of -vanilla or almonds, or a wineglassful of noyeau, or any flavouring wished, -and freeze. -</p> - -<p id="icesfromfreshfruit176"> -<strong>Ices from Fresh Fruits</strong>.—Take half a pound of fresh -strawberries or raspberries, add half that weight of sugar, pound -thoroughly, rub through a sieve, and mix with this thick juice, rubbed -through, half a pint of the mixture made for ice cream (<em>see</em> <a -href="#cheapicecream176">ICE CREAM, CHEAP</a>), only, of course, without -any flavouring such as vanilla, etc. Mix thoroughly, and freeze. -</p> - -<p> -<strong>N.B.</strong>—A few red currants should be mixed with the -raspberries. Should the colour be poor, brighten it up before freezing with -a little cochineal. -</p> - -<p id="icesfromjams176"> -<strong>Ices from Jam</strong>.—Mix a quarter of a pound of any jam -with half a pint of the mixture made for ice cream (<em>see</em> <a -href="#cheapicecream176">ICE CREAM, CHEAP</a>), without any flavouring such -as vanilla. Rub all through a fine sieve, and freeze. Cochineal will give -additional colour to red jams; <a href="#spinachextract025">spinach -extract</a> to green jams; and a very little turmeric, or yellow vegetable -colouring, to yellow jams. A small pinch of turmeric can be boiled in the -milk. -</p> - -<p id="lemonwaterice176"> -<strong>Ice, Lemon-Water</strong>.—Rub six lumps of sugar on the rind of -six lemons, add this and the juice of six lemons to a pint of -fairly sweet syrup. The amount of sugar is a matter of taste. -Strain and freeze. Some persons add a few drops of dilute -sulphuric acid. -</p> - -<p id="orangewaterice176"> -<strong>Ice, Orange-Water</strong>.—Act exactly as in lemon-water, -using oranges instead of lemons, and syrup containing less -sugar. -</p> - -<p id="fruitwaterice177"> -<strong>Ice, Water Fruit</strong>.—All sorts of water fruit ices can be -made by mixing half a pint of juice, such as currant-juice, with -twice that quantity of syrup, and freezing. Grated ripe pine-apple, -pounded and bruised, ripe cherries and greengages, -strawberry-juice, raspberry-juice, can be mixed with syrup and -frozen. Sometimes a little lemon-juice can be added with -advantage, and in the case of cherry ice and greengage ice a -little noyeau added is an improvement. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter13">CHAPTER XIII.</h2> - - <h3>CAKES AND BREAD.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - In vegetarian cookery there is no difference, as far as cake-making - is concerned, between it and ordinary cookery. In - making cakes we will confine our attention chiefly to general - principles which, if once known, render cake-making of every - description comparatively easy work. Those who wish for - detailed <em>recipes</em> for making almost every kind of cake known - will find all that they require on a large scale in “Cassell’s - Dictionary of Cookery,” and also everything necessary on a - smaller scale in “Cassell’s Shilling Cookery,” which has already - reached its hundred-thousandth edition. - </p> - - <p> -Cakes may be divided into two classes—those that contain -fruit and those that do not. Plum cakes can be made very -rich indeed, like a wedding cake, or so plain that it can scarcely -be distinguished from a loaf of bread with a few currants in it. -Again, cakes that contain no fruit can, at the same time, be -made exceedingly rich, the richness chiefly depending upon the -amount of butter and eggs that are used. We will first give -a few directions with regard to making what may be termed -plain cakes, <em>i.e.</em>, cakes that contain no fruit at all. Perhaps -the best model we can give to illustrate the general principles -will be that of a pound cake. The recipe is a very easy one -to recollect, as a pound cake means one that is made from a -pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of eggs, and a -pound of flour. There is one addition, however, which the -good plain cook will probably not be up to, and which, so far -as flavour is concerned, makes all the difference between -Francatelli and “Jemima Ann”—we must rub some of the -lumps of sugar on the outsides of either two oranges or two -lemons. It is also a great improvement to add a small glass -of brandy, and in every kind of cake we must add a pinch -of salt. -</p> - -<p id="poundcake179"> -In making cakes it is always necessary to be careful about -the butter. It is best to put the butter in cold water before -it is used, and, if salt butter, it should be washed in several -waters to extract the salt. The next thing necessary is to -beat the butter to a cream. To do this it must be worked -about in a basin with a wooden spoon. The basin should -be a strong one, and a wooden spoon is far preferable to a metal -one. You simply beat the butter and spread it against the -sides of the basin and knock it about till it loses its consistency. -You cannot beat the butter to the consistency of -ordinary cream, but to a state more resembling Devonshire -clotted cream. Of course, when it is like this it is much more -easily mixed with the other ingredients. In making a pound -cake we should first of all beat the butter to a cream and then -add flour, sugar, and eggs gradually. When the whole is -thoroughly well mixed together, we must bake it in a tin, or -mould, or hoop. We need say nothing about tins or moulds, -but will confine ourselves to giving directions how to bake a -cake in a hoop, for, as a rule, ordinary English cooks do not -understand how to use them. -</p> - -<p> -One great advantage of using a hoop is that when the cake -is baked there is no fear of breaking it in turning it out. A -very simple hoop can be made with an ordinary slip of tin, say -six inches wide; as the tin will lap over, the cake can be made -any size round you wish. It is a good plan to fasten a piece -of copper wire round the outside of the tin. This can be -twisted, and when the cake is baked and has got cold can be -untwisted, and the tin will then open of its own accord. The -tin must be lined with buttered paper, and buttered paper must -be placed on a flat piece of tin at the bottom. When an -“amateur hoop” is used like we have described, care must be -taken that the cake does not come out at the bottom. The -cake, especially when it is made with beaten-up eggs, like -sponge cake, will rise, and unless precautions are taken the -tin will rise with it, and the unset portion of the cake break -loose round the edge at the bottom. To prevent this the tin -must be kept down with a weight at the top. In a proper -hoop made for the purpose there are appliances for fastening -the hoop together itself and also for keeping it in its place, but -if we use a strip of tin we must place something across the tin -on the top and then put on a heavy weight. When this is -done, you must remember to allow room for the cake to rise. -A pound cake such as we have described can be made into a -rich fruit cake by adding stoned raisins, currants, chopped -candied peel, sultana raisins, or, better still, dried cherries. In -making ordinary cakes, when currants are used, they should -be first washed and then dried; if you use damp currants the -cake will probably be heavy. -</p> - -<p> -With regard to the flour, it is cheapest in the end to use -the best quality, and the flour should be dried and sifted. If -you weigh the flour remember to dry and sift it before you -weigh it, and not after. In using sugar get the best loaf; this -should also be pounded and sifted. -</p> - -<p> -In using eggs, of course each egg should be broken -separately. Very often it is necessary to separate the yolks -from the whites. This requires some little skill; you are less -likely to break the yolk when you crack the egg boldly. -Put the yolk from one half egg-shell into the other half, -spilling as much of the white as you can. You will soon get -the yolks separate. Next, remember before mixing the eggs -to remove the thread or string from them. When the -whites are beaten separately, you must whisk them till they -become a solid froth; no liquid should remain at the bottom -of the basin. The yolks should not be broken till they are -wanted. -</p> - -<p> -Lemon-peel is often used in making cakes, and in chopping -it a little powdered sugar is a great assistance in preventing -the peel sticking together. Remember only to use the <em>yellow</em> -part, not the white. The white part gives the cake a bitter -flavour. -</p> - -<p> -Sometimes milk or cream is used in cake-making. If Swiss -milk is used as a substitute, remember that less sugar will be -required. -</p> - -<p> -When pounded almonds are used for cakes, the almonds -must be blanched by being thrown, first into boiling water, -and then into cold water. In pounding them, add a little rose-water -or orange-flower water, or the white of an egg, to prevent -the almonds getting oily. -</p> - -<p id="bakingpowder180"> -Nearly all plain cakes, where only a few eggs are used, will -be made lighter by the addition of a little baking-powder. A -very good baking-powder is made by mixing an ounce of tartaric -acid with an ounce and a half of bicarbonate of soda, -and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. The baking powder -should be kept very dry. -</p> - -<p> -A very nice way of making home-made cakes is to use some -dough, which can be procured from the baker’s. Suppose you -have a quartern of dough, put it in a basin, cover it over with -a cloth, and put it in front of the fire to rise, then spread it on -a floured pastry-board, slice it up, and work in half a pound -of fresh butter, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, a teaspoonful -of salt, and half an ounce of caraway seeds. When -all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, place them in two or -more well-buttered tins or hoops, and let them stand in front -of the fire a little while before they are placed in the oven. -Cakes can be flavoured with a variety of spices, such as cinnamon, -mace, nutmeg, or powdered coriander seeds. These last -are always used to give a special flavour to hot cross buns. -</p> - -<p id="bread180"> -<strong>Bread</strong>.—Home-made bread is not so much used now as it -was years back. Most housekeepers have found by experience -that it is a waste both of time and money. There are very -few houses among the middle classes which possess an oven -capable of competing with any chance of success with a baker’s -oven. There are, however, many vegetarians who believe in -what is called whole-meal bread. A good deal of the whole-meal -bread sold as such has been found to be adulterated with -substances very unwholesome to ordinary stomachs. We may -mention saw-dust as one of the ingredients used for the purpose. -Again, if you attempt to make whole-meal bread into -loaves, you will find great difficulty in baking the loaves. This -whole-meal is a very slow conductor of heat, and the result -will probably be that the outside of the loaf will be very hard -while the inside will be too underdone to be eaten. Consequently, -should you wish to have home-made whole-meal bread, -it is far best to bake it in the form of a tea-cake or flat-cake. -We cannot do better, in conclusion, than quote what Sir Henry -Thompson says on this subject:—“The following recipe,” he -says, “will be found successful, probably, after a trial or two, in -producing excellent, light, friable, and most palatable bread: -To two pounds of coarsely ground or crushed whole-meal, -add half a pound of fine flour and a sufficient quantity of -baking powder and salt; when these are well mixed, rub in -two ounces of butter, and make into dough with half milk and -water, or with all milk if preferred. Make rapidly into flat -cakes like ‘tea-cakes,’ and bake without delay in a quick -oven, leaving them afterwards to finish thoroughly at a lower -temperature. The butter and milk supply fatty matters, in -which the wheat is somewhat deficient; all the saline and -mineral matters of the husk are retained; and thus a more -nutritive form of bread cannot be made. Moreover, it retains -the natural flavour of the wheat, in place of the insipidity -which is characteristic of fine flour, although it is indisputable -that bread produced from the latter, especially in Paris and -Vienna, is unrivalled for delicacy, texture, and colour. Whole -meal may be bought; but mills are now cheaply made for -home use, and wheat may be ground to any degree of coarseness -desired.” -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="chapter14">CHAPTER XIV.</h2> - - <h3>PIES AND PUDDINGS.</h3> - - <p class="first"> - In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made - in the same way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception - that we cannot use lard or dripping in making our pastry. - Nor are we allowed to use suet in making crust for puddings. - It would have been quite impossible to have given even one - quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, - and we must refer those who wish for information on this - subject to “Cassell’s Shilling Cookery,” where will be found a - very complete list, but which would have occupied the whole - of the space which we have devoted to recipes where vegetarian - cookery, as a rule, <em>differs</em> from the ordinary. - </p> - -<p> -We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to -the two points we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry -without lard or dripping, and pudding crust without suet. The -first of these two points causes no difficulty whatever, as the -best pastry, especially that known as puff paste, is invariably -made with butter only as the fatty element; but there is one -point we must not overlook. -</p> - -<p> -Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use -the animal products—butter, milk, cream, and eggs—and -those who do not. This latter class contains, probably, the -most respected members of the vegetarian body, as it will -always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid by -all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to -make pastry, butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We -fear we cannot tell them how to make good puff paste; but -“Necessity is the mother of invention,” and naturally olive oil -must supply the place of butter. -</p> - -<p id="pastrywithoutbutter183"> -<strong>Pastry without Butter</strong>.—We will describe how to make -a small quantity, which is always best when we make experiments. Take half -a pound of the best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a -salt-spoonful of baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, -and work the oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a -small piece of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff -paste. Next add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; -roll it out and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the -method used in making high-class pastry. -</p> - -<p> -We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is -used more oil may be added. -</p> - -<p> -We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature -than water, consequently the minute particles of oil -become partially solid. Now take the paste, roll it out, and -give it three turns; roll it out again, give it three more turns, -and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be -careful to flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By -this means we get the pastry in thin layers, with minute air -bubbles between them, and this will cause the pastry to rise. -If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the last time, -cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the -pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a -very cold place. -</p> - -<p id="pastryforpuddings184"> -This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be -utilised for puddings, in which latter case we would recommend -the addition of a little more baking-powder, and to every -pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of very fine bread-crumbs. -These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine sieve. -</p> - -<p id="pastrywithbutter184"> -<strong>Pastry with Butter</strong>.—Good puff paste is made by taking -equal quantities of butter and flour—say a pound of each—the -yolk of one egg, a pinch of salt, while the water used is acidulated -with lemon-juice. For the manipulation of this pastry -we must refer those who do not know how to make it to -other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. -In making ordinary paste we must use less butter; -and when we use considerably less butter, if we wish -the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder. The -quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many -persons make their own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend -any better than the recipe given in the last chapter, -viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half of bicarbonate -of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A -great deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna -flour is much more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably -superior. What limit we can assign to the quantity of -butter used it is impossible to say. A quarter of a pound of -butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of baking-powder, -will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the -result is not altogether satisfactory. -</p> - -<p id="puddings182"> -<strong>Puddings</strong>.—We next come to the very large class of puddings -in which suet is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case -in point. The best substitute for suet, of course, is butter or -oil; a plum pudding, however, made without suet, would undoubtedly -be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must use butter, -bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to -give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients. -Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum -pudding, and no flour, in which case, of course, a very considerable -number of eggs must be used or else the pudding will -break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being used as a -substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the -oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted -English prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, -and it has often been remarked by high-class authorities -that really pure butter ought to be the same. We fear, however, -that purity in food is the exception rather than the rule, -as at no period of this country’s history has the crime of -adulteration been so rampant as in the present day. -</p> - -<p> -Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. -Too often adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. -Steps have been taken in recent years to put a stop to this -universal system of fraud, more especially in connection with -butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the “Margarine -Act” we believe that this country would be richer and happier, -and without doubt more healthy. -</p> - -<p> -In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, -cabinet pudding, there is no difference whatever in vegetarian -cookery. It would be quite impossible to make any of these -puddings without eggs, and when eggs are used we may take for -granted that butter is allowed also. -</p> - -<p> -We have, throughout, called particular attention to -the importance of appearances. In the case of all puddings -made with eggs and baked in a dish, it is a very great -improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg, and to -beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar. -When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white -froth, and let it set by placing it in a slack oven for two or -three minutes. Whether the pudding is served hot or cold, -the result is the same. An otherwise plain and somewhat -common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the -only extra expense being a little <em>trouble</em>. -</p> - -<p> -We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: -“Whatsoever thy hand findeth to do, do it with thy might.” -</p> -</div> - -<div class="chapter"> - - <h2 id="index">INDEX.</h2> - - <ul> - - <li><a href="#allemandesauce044">Allemande Sauce</a>, 44</li> - - <li><a href="#almondcheesecakes170">Almond Cheesecakes</a>, 170 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#almondsauce044">Sauce</a>, 44</li> - <li><a href="#almondsauceclear045">Sauce, Clear</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#almondsoup023">Soup</a>, 23</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#applecheesecakes170">Apple Cheesecakes</a>, 170 - <ul> - <li><a href="#applecustard168">Custard</a>, 168</li> - <li><a href="#applefritters118">Fritters</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#applejamandjelly161">Jam</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#applejamandjelly161">Jelly</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#applesauce045">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#applesoup024">Soup</a>, 24</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#stewedapples172">Apples, Stewed</a>, 172</li> - - <li><a href="#apricotfritters119">Apricot Fritters</a>, 119 - <ul> - <li><a href="#apricotjam164">Jam</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#apricotjelly163">Jelly</a>, 163</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#tinnedapricots155">Apricots Tinned</a>, 155 - <ul> - <li><a href="#peachesandapricotswithcream156">with Cream</a>, 156</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#herbaciousmixture032">Aromatic Herbs</a>, 32</li> - - <li><a href="#arrowrootsauce045">Arrowroot Sauce</a>, 45</li> - - <li><a href="#frenchartichokes137">Artichokes, French</a>, 137 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchartichokesalaprovencale137">à la Provençale</a>, 137</li> - <li><a href="#frenchartichokes137">Boiled</a>, 137</li> - <li><a href="#friedfrenchartichokes137">Fried</a>, 137</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesalad102">Salad</a>, 102</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#jerusalemartichokes137">Artichoke, Jerusalem</a>, 137 - <ul> - <li><a href="#friedjerusalemartichokes138">Fried</a>, 138</li> - <li><a href="#mashedjerusalemartichokes138">Mashed</a>, 138</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesauce045">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesoup024">Soup</a>, 24</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandasparagus085">Asparagus and Eggs</a>, 85 - <ul> - <li><a href="#boiledasparagus139">Boiled</a>, 139</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussalad101">Salad</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussauce045">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussoup024">Soup</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedasparagus153">Tinned</a>, 153</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#ayoli115">Ayoli</a>, 115</li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#bakingpowder180">Baking-Powder</a>, 180</li> - - <li><a href="#bananafritters119">Banana Fritters</a>, 119</li> - - <li><a href="#riceandbarleyporridge075">Barley and Rice Porridge</a>, 75 - <ul> - <li><a href="#barleysoup025">Soup</a>, 25</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#fritterbatter116">Batter for Fritters</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#broadbeans139">Beans, Broad</a>, 139 - <ul> - <li><a href="#broadbeansalabourgeoise139">à la Bourgeoise</a>, 139</li> - <li><a href="#broadbeansalapoulette139">à la Poulette</a>, 139</li> - <li><a href="#mashedbroadbeans139">Mashed</a>, 139</li> - <li><a href="#broadbeansalad103">Salad</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#frenchbeans139">Beans, French</a>, 139 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchbeanspudding140">Pudding</a>, 140</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansalad102">Salad</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedfrenchbeans154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#haricotbeans131">Beans, Haricot</a>, 131 - <ul> - <li><a href="#haricotbeansalad103">Salad</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">Soup, Red</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">Soup, White</a>, 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#beetrootsalad102">Beetroot Salad</a>, 102 - <ul> - <li><a href="#beetrootsoup026">Soup</a>, 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackbutter048">Beurre Noir</a>, 48</li> - - <li><a href="#blackberryjam164">Blackberry Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#blackberryjelly158">Jelly</a>, 158</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackbutter048">Black Butter</a>, 48 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsandblackbutter086">and Eggs</a>, 86</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjam164">Black Currant Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjelly160">Jelly</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantsauce050">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#bread180">Bread</a>, 180 - <ul> - <li><a href="#breadandmilk075">and Milk</a>, 75</li> - <li><a href="#potatobread129">Potato</a>, 129</li> - <li><a href="#breadsauce045">Sauce</a>, 45</li> - <li>W<a href="#bread180">hole-Meal</a>, 180</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#brocoli141">Brocoli</a>, 141 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brocoligreens141">Greens</a>, 141</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#brownmushroomsauce055">Brown Mushroom Sauce</a>, 55 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsauce055">Onion Sauce</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#roux022">Roux</a>, 22</li> - <li><a href="#roux022">Thickening</a>, 22</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#brusselssprouts141">Brussels Sprouts</a>, 141 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tinnedbrusselssprouts154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackbutter048">Butter, Black</a>, 48 - <ul> - <li><a href="#maitredhotelsauce053">Maître - d’Hôtel</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#oiledbutter048">Melted</a>, 48</li> - <li><a href="#oiledbutter048">Oiled</a>, 48</li> - <li><a href="#buttersauce046">Sauce</a>, 46</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#cabbage142">Cabbage</a>, 142 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cabbageandcream143">and Cream</a>, 143</li> - <li><a href="#riceandcabbage063">and Rice</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#largewhitecabbage142">large White</a>, 142</li> - <li><a href="#redcabbage143">Red</a>, 143</li> - <li><a href="#cabbagesoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#chapter13">Cakes</a>, 177 - - <ul> - <li><a href="#parsnipcake147">Parsnip</a>, 147</li> - <li><a href="#poundcake179">Pound</a>, 179</li> - </ul> - - </li> - - <li><a href="#capersauce049">Caper Sauce</a>, 49</li> - - <li><a href="#carrotjam164">Carrot Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#carrotsauce049">Sauce</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#carrotsoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#boiledcarrots143">Carrots, Boiled</a>, 143 - <ul> - <li><a href="#friedcarrots144">Fried</a>, 144</li> - <li><a href="#mashedcarrots144">Mashed</a>, 144</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedcarrots154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cauliflowerandtomatosauce145">Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce</a>, 145 - <ul> - <li><a href="#caulifloweraugratin144">au gratin</a>, 144</li> - <li><a href="#boiledcauliflower144">Boiled</a>, 144</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersalad104">Salad</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersauce049">Sauce</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersoup028">Soup</a>, 28</li> - </ul> - - </li> - - <li><a href="#riceborder064">Casseroles</a>, 64</li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandcelery085">Celery and Eggs</a>, 85 - <ul> - <li><a href="#celerysalad103">Salad</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#celerysauce049">Sauce</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#celerysoup029">Soup</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#stewedcelery145">Stewed</a>, 145</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cheesecakes165">Cheesecakes</a>, 165-168 - <ul> - <li><a href="#almondcheesecakes170">Almond</a>, 170</li> - <li><a href="#applecheesecakes170">Apple</a>, 170</li> - <li><a href="#cheesecakesfromcurds169">from Curds</a>, 169</li> - <li><a href="#orangecheesecake170">Orange</a>, 170</li> - <li><a href="#potatocheesecake169">Potato</a>, 169</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandcheese089">Cheese and Eggs</a>, 89 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cheeseandfriedbread113">and Fried Bread</a>, 113</li> - <li><a href="#riceandcheese063">and Rice</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#devilledcheese114">Devilled</a>, 114</li> - <li><a href="#cheesefritters117">Fritters</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#cheeseramequins114">Ramequins</a>, 114 </li> - <li><a href="#cheesesandwiches107">Sandwiches</a>, 107</li> - <li><a href="#cheesesavoury113">Savoury</a>, 113</li> - <li><a href="#cheesesouffle092">Soufflé</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#cheesesoup029">Soup</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#stewedcheese114">Stewed</a>, 114</li> - <li><a href="#cheesestraws114">Straws</a>, 114</li> - <li><a href="#toastedcheese114">Toasted</a>, 114</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cherrysauce049">Cherry Sauce</a>, 49 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cherrysoup029">Soup</a>, 29</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#stewedcherries174">Cherries, Stewed</a>, 174</li> - - <li><a href="#chestnutsauce049">Chestnut Sauce</a>, 49 - <ul> - <li><a href="#chestnutsoup030">Soup</a>, 30</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#macaroniandchestnuts072">Chestnuts and Macaroni</a>, 72</li> - - <li><a href="#chocolatecream166">Chocolate Cream</a>, 166 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mangochutneysauce053">Chutney Sauce</a>, 53</li> - - <li><a href="#cinnamonsauce049">Cinnamon Sauce</a>, 49</li> - - <li><a href="#clearsoup030">Clear Soup</a>, 30</li> - - <li><a href="#cocoanutsauce049">Cocoanut Sauce</a>, 49 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cocoanutsoup031">Soup</a>, 31</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#coffeecream166">Coffee Cream</a>, 166 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cottagesoup030">Cottage Soup</a>, 30</li> - - <li><a href="#macaroniandcream073">Cream and Macaroni</a>, 73 - <ul> - <li><a href="#creamcheesesandwiches107">Cheese Sandwiches</a>, 107</li> - <li><a href="#chocolatecream166">Chocolate</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#coffeecream166">Coffee</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#creamfritters120">Fritters</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#lemoncream166">Lemon</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#maraschinocream166">Maraschino</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#orangecream166">Orange</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#pistachiocream167">Pistachio</a>, 167</li> - <li><a href="#strawberrycream167">Strawberry</a>, 167</li> - <li><a href="#vanillacream166">Vanilla</a>, 166</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#creams165">Creams</a>, 165</li> - - <li><a href="#potatocroquettes127">Croquettes, Potato</a>, 127 - <ul> - <li><a href="#ricecroquettes065">Rice</a>, 65</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandcucumber088">Cucumber and Eggs</a>, 88 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cucumbersalad102">Salad</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#cucumbersauce049">Sauce</a>, 49</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#blackcurrantsauce050">Currant Sauce, Black</a>, 50 - <ul> - <li> - <ul> - <li><a href="#redcurrantsauce050">Red</a>, 50</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjam164">Black, Jam</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjelly160">Black, Jelly</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjam164">Red, Jam</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjelly161">Red, Jelly</a>, 161</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#curriedeggs082">Curried Eggs</a>, 82 - <ul> - <li><a href="#curriedlentils136">Lentils</a>, 136</li> - <li><a href="#curriedrice063">Rice</a> 63</li> - <li><a href="#curriedvegetables151">Curried Vegetables</a>, 151</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#currysauce050">Curry Sauce</a>, 50</li> - - <li><a href="#applecustard168">Custard, Apple</a>, 168 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cheapcustard168">Cheap</a>, 168</li> - <li><a href="#custardfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#custards167">Custards</a>, 167</li> - - <li><a href="#potatocroquettes127">Cutlets, Potato</a>, 127</li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#damsonjam164">Damson Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#damsonjelly162">Jelly</a>, 162</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#dandelionsalad103">Dandelion Salad</a>, 103</li> - - <li><a href="#devilledcheese114">Devilled Cheese</a>, 114 - <ul> - <li><a href="#devilledeggs082">Eggs</a>, 82</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch Sauce</a>, 51 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greendutchsauce051">Green</a>, 51</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggballs083">Egg Balls</a>, 83 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggforcemeat083">Forcemeat</a>, 83</li> - <li><a href="#eggsalad099">Salad</a>, 99</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandwiches106">Sandwiches</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#eggsauce051">Sauce</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#eggtoast085">Toast</a>, 85</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#chapter4">Eggs</a>, 78 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsalabonnefemme083">à la bonne femme</a>, 83</li> - <li><a href="#eggsaladauphine085">à la Dauphine</a>, 85</li> - <li><a href="#eggsalatripe083">à la tripe</a>, 83</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandasparagus085">and Asparagus</a>, 85 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsandblackbutter086">Black Butter</a>, 86</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandcelery085">Celery</a>, 85</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandcheese089">Cheese</a>, 89</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandcucumber088">Cucumber</a>, 88</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandgarlic086">Garlic</a>, 86</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandmushrooms086">Mushrooms</a>, 86</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandonions087">Onions</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandpotatoes087">Potatoes</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#riceandeggs066">Rice</a>, 66</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandsaucerobert087">Sauce Robert</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandsorrel087">Sorrel</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandspinach085">Spinach</a>, 85</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandturniptops085">Turnip-tops</a>, 85</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#eggsaugratin084">au gratin</a>, 84</li> - <li><a href="#boiledeggs078">Boiled</a>, 78 - <ul> - <li><a href="#hardboiledeggs081">Hard</a>, 81</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#broiledeggs087">Broiled</a>, 87</li> - <li><a href="#butteredeggs088">Buttered</a>, 88</li> - <li><a href="#curriedeggs082">Curried</a>, 82</li> - <li><a href="#devilledeggs082">Devilled</a>, 82</li> - <li><a href="#friedeggs080">Fried</a>, 80</li> - <li><a href="#eggsinsunshine088">in Sunshine</a>, 88</li> - <li><a href="#littleeggs089">Little</a>, 89</li> - <li><a href="#poachedeggs081">Poached</a>, 81</li> - <li><a href="#scrambledeggs088">Scrambled</a>, 88</li> - <li><a href="#tobreakeggs080">To Break</a>, 80</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#endive145">Endive</a>, 145 - <ul> - <li><a href="#endivesalad100">Salad</a>, 100</li> - <li><a href="#endivesoup031">Soup</a>, 31</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#englishsalad097">English Salad</a>, 97</li> - - <li><a href="#spinachextract025">Extract of Spinach</a>, 25</li> -</ul> - -<ul> - <li><a href="#fennelsauce051">Fennel Sauce</a>, 51</li> - - <li><a href="#flageolets133">Flageolets</a>, 133 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tinnedflageolets154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#fonddartichokes155">Fond d’Artichokes</a>, 155</li> - - <li><a href="#eggforcemeat083">Forcemeat of Egg</a>, 83 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mushroomforcemeat110">of Mushroom</a>, 110</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#frangipanefritters120">Frangipane Fritters</a>, 120</li> - - <li><a href="#frenchbeans139">French Beans</a>, 139 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansalad102">Bean Salad</a>, 102 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansoup027">Soup</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeanspudding140">Pudding</a>, 140</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#frenchsalad097">Salad</a>, 97</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#fritters116">Fritters</a>, 116 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Almond</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#applefritters118">Apple</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#apricotfritters119">Apricot</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#bananafritters119">Banana</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#fritterbatter116">Batter for</a>, 116</li> - <li><a href="#cheesefritters117">Cheese</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Chocolate</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Coffee</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#creamfritters120">Cream</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#custardfritters119">Custard</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#frangipanefritters120">Frangipane</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#gamefritters117">Game</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#germanfritters121">German</a>, 121</li> - <li><a href="#riceandgingerfritters121">Ginger and Rice</a>, 121</li> - <li><a href="#hominyfritters117">Hominy</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomfritters116">Mushroom</a>, 116</li> - <li><a href="#orangefritters120">Orange</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplefritters120">Pine Apple</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#peachfritters120">Peach</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#potatofritters120">Potato</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#ricefritters121">Rice</a>, 121</li> - <li><a href="#sageandonionfritters118">Sage and Onion</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#spinachfritters118">Spinach</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#sweetfritters118">Sweet</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#tomatofritters117">Tomato</a>, 117</li> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Vanilla</a>, 119</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#compoteoffruit171">Fruit, Compote of</a>, 171 - <ul> - <li><a href="#fruitsoup031">Soup</a>, 31</li> - <li><a href="#compoteoffruit171">Stewed</a>, 171</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#bottledfruits157">Fruits, Bottled</a>, 157 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tinnedfruits155">Tinned</a>, 155</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#frumenty076">Frumenty</a>, 76</li> - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#gamefritters117">Game Fritters</a>, 117</li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandgarlic086">Garlic and Eggs</a>, 86</li> - - <li><a href="#littleeggs089">Garnish of Eggs</a>, 89</li> - - <li><a href="#germanfritters121">German Fritters</a>, 121 - <ul> - <li><a href="#germansalad100">Salad</a>, 100</li> - <li><a href="#germansweetsauce051">Sauce</a>, 51</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#gingersauce052">Ginger Sauce</a>, 52</li> - - <li><a href="#gooseberrysauce052">Gooseberry Sauce</a>, 52</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedgooseberries173">Gooseberries, Stewed</a>, 173</li> - - <li><a href="#greenbeansoup027">Green Bean Soup</a>, 27 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greendutchsauce051">Dutch Sauce</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#greenmayonnaisesauce054">Mayonnaise Sauce</a>, 54</li> - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">Pea Soup, Dried</a>, 37 - <ul> - <li><a href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">Fresh</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - - <ul> - - <li><a href="#haresoup032">Hare Soup</a>, 32</li> - - <li><a href="#haricotbeans131">Haricot Beans</a>, 131 - <ul> - <li><a href="#haricotbeansalad103">Bean Salad</a>, 103 - <ul> - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">Soup, Red</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">White</a>, 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#herbaciousmixture032">Herbaceous Mixture</a>, 32</li> - - <li><a href="#herbaciousmixture032">Herbs, Aromatic</a>, 32</li> - - <li><a href="#hominy076">Hominy</a>, 76 - <ul> - <li><a href="#friedhominy076">Fried</a>, 76</li> - <li><a href="#hominyfritters117">Fritters</a>, 117</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#hopsalad104">Hop Salad</a>, 104</li> - - <li><a href="#horseradishsauce052">Horseradish Sauce</a>, 52</li> - - <li><a href="#hotchpotch032">Hotch Potch</a>, 32</li> - -</ul> - -<ul> -<li><a href="#cheapicecream176">Ice Cream</a>, 176 -<ul> -<li><a href="#lemonwaterice176">Lemon Water</a>, 176</li> -<li><a href="#orangewaterice176">Orange Water</a>, 176</li> -<li><a href="#fruitwaterice177">Water Fruit</a>, 177</li> -</ul> -</li> - -<li><a href="#ices174">Ices</a>, 174 -<ul> -<li><a href="#icesfromfreshfruit176">from Fresh Fruit</a>, 176</li> -<li><a href="#icesfromjams176">from Jams</a>, 176</li> -</ul> -</li> - -<li><a href="#indianpicklesauce053">Indian Pickle Sauce</a>, 53 -<ul> -<li><a href="#indiansandwiches106">Sandwiches</a>, 106</li> -</ul> -</li> - -<li><a href="#italiansalad104">Italian Salad</a>, 104 -<ul> -<li><a href="#italiansauce053">Sauce</a>, 53</li> -</ul> -</li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#applejamandjelly161">Jam Apple</a>, 161 - <ul> - <li><a href="#apricotjam164">Apricot</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#blackberryjam164">Blackberry</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjam164">Black Currant</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#carrotjam164">Carrot</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#damsonjam164">Damson</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#gooseberryjam164">Gooseberry</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#greengagejam164">Greengage</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#plumjam164">Plum</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#raspberryjam164">Raspberry</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjam164">Red Currant</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#rhubarbjam164">Rhubarb</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#strawberryjam164">Strawberry</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#vegetablemarrowjam164">Vegetable Marrow</a>, 164</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#jams163">Jams</a>, 163</li> - - <li><a href="#jardinieresoup033">Jardinière Soup</a>, 33</li> - - <li><a href="#chapter10">Jellies</a>, 158</li> - - <li><a href="#applejamandjelly161">Jelly, Apple</a>, 161 - <ul> - <li><a href="#apricotjelly163">Apricot</a>, 163</li> - <li><a href="#blackberryjelly158">Blackberry</a>, 158</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantjelly160">Black Currant</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#damsonjelly162">Damson</a>, 162</li> - <li><a href="#lemonjelly159">Lemon</a>, 159</li> - <li><a href="#mulberryjelly163">Mulberry</a>, 163</li> - <li><a href="#orangejelly160">Orange</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplejelly162">Pine Apple</a>, 162</li> - <li><a href="#raspberryjelly161">Raspberry</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjelly161">Red Currant</a>, 161</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#juliennesoup033">Julienne Soup</a>, 33</li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - - <li><a href="#scotchkale148">Kale, Scotch</a>, 148 - <ul> - <li><a href="#seakale148">Sea</a>, 148</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - -<ul> - <li><a href="#leeksoup033">Leek Soup</a>, 33</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedleeks145">Leeks, Stewed</a>, 145 - <ul> - <li><a href="#welshporridge146">Welsh Porridge</a>, 146</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#lemoncream166">Lemon Cream</a>, 166 - <ul> - <li><a href="#lemonjelly159">Jelly</a>, 159</li> - <li><a href="#lemonwaterice176">Water, Ice</a>, 176</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#lentilporridge075">Lentil Porridge</a>, 75 - <ul> - <li><a href="#lentilalasoubise034">Purée a la Soubise</a>, - 34</li> - <li><a href="#lentilsoup033">Soup</a>, 33</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#lentils135">Lentils</a>, 135 - <ul> - <li><a href="#lentilsalaprovencale136">à la a Provençale</a>, 136</li> - <li><a href="#boiledlentils136">Boiled</a>, 136</li> - <li><a href="#curriedlentils136">Curried</a>, 136</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#frenchsalad097">Lettuce Salad</a>, 97</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedlettuces146">Lettuces, Stewed</a>, 146 - <ul> - <li><a href="#stewedlettuceswithpeas146">with Peas</a>, 146</li> - </ul> - </li> -</ul> - -<ul> -<li><a href="#macaroni067">Macaroni</a>, 67 -<ul> -<li><a href="#macaronialareine069">à la Reine</a>, 69</li> -<li><a href="#macaronicheese068">and Cheese</a>, 68 -<ul> -<li><a href="#macaroniandchestnuts072">Chestnuts</a>, 72</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniandcream073">Cream</a>, 73</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniandeggs069">Eggs</a>, 69</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniandtomatoes072">Tomatoes</a>, 72</li> -</ul> -</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniasanornament070">as an Ornament</a>, 70</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniaugratin069">au gratin</a>, 69</li> -<li><a href="#macaroniitalianfashion068">Italian Fashion</a>, 68</li> -<li><a href="#macaroninudels071">Nudels</a>, 71</li> -<li><a href="#savourymacaroni072">Savoury</a>, 72</li> -<li><a href="#scollopedmacaroni070">Scolloped</a>, 70</li> -<li><a href="#clearmacaronisoup034">Soup, Clear</a>, 34</li> -<li><a href="#thickmacaronisoup034">Soup, Thick</a>, 34</li> -<li><a href="#timbaleofmacaroni070">Timbale of</a>, 70</li> -</ul> -</li> - - <li><a href="#macedoines155">Macedoines</a>, 155</li> - - <li><a href="#maitredhotelsauce053">Maître d’Hôtel - Sauce</a>, 53 - <ul> - <li><a href="#maitredhotelsauce053">Butter</a>, 53</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mangochutneysauce053">Mango Chutney Sauce</a>, 53</li> - - <li><a href="#maraschinocream166">Maraschino Cream</a>, 166</li> - - <li><a href="#mayonnaisesalad098">Mayonnaise Salad</a>, 98 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mayonnaisesauce053">Sauce</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#greenmayonnaisesauce054">Sauce, Green</a>, 54</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#melonsalad105">Melon Salad</a>, 105</li> - - <li><a href="#milkporridge075">Milk Porridge</a>, 75 - <ul> - <li><a href="#milksoup035">Soup</a>, 35</li> - <li><a href="#milktoast077">Toast</a>, 77</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mintsauce054">Mint Sauce</a>, 54</li> - - <li><a href="#mockturtlesoup035">Mock Turtle Soup</a>, 35</li> - - <li><a href="#mulberryjelly163">Mulberry Jelly</a>, 163</li> - - <li><a href="#mulligatawnysoup035">Mulligatawny Soup</a>, 35</li> - - <li><a href="#allemandesauce044">Mushroom, Essence of</a>, 44 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mushroomforcemeat110">Forcemeat</a>, 110</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomfritters116">Fritters</a>, 116</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompie110">Pie</a>, 110 - <ul> - <li><a href="#coldmushroompie110">Cold</a>, 110</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#mushroompudding111">Pudding</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompureesauce055">Purée of</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsandwiches106">Sandwiches</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsauce054">Sauce</a>, 54 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownmushroomsauce055">Brown</a>, 55</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mushrooms108">Mushrooms</a>, 108 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mushroomsalabordelaise110">à la Bordelaise</a>, 110</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsalaprovencale110">à la Provencale</a>, 110</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandmushrooms086">and Eggs</a>, 86</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsaugratin109">au gratin</a>, 109</li> - <li><a href="#friedmushrooms109">Fried</a>, 109</li> - <li><a href="#plainmushrooms108">Plain</a>, 108</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mustardsauce055">Mustard Sauce</a>, 55</li> - - <li><a href="#mustardandcresssalad104">Mustard and Cress</a>, 104 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mustardandcresssandwiches106">Sandwiches</a>, 106</li> - </ul> - </li> - -</ul> - -<ul> - <li><a href="#nalesnikis116">Nalesnikis</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#toboilnettles151">Nettles, To Boil</a>, 151</li> -</ul> - -<ul> - - <li><a href="#milkporridge075">Oatmeal Porridge</a>, 73</li> - - <li><a href="#oiledbutter048">Oiled Butter</a>, 48</li> - - <li><a href="#omeletaukirsch095">Omelet au Kirsch</a>, 95 - <ul> - <li><a href="#omeletaurhum095">au Rhum</a>, 95</li> - <li><a href="#cheeseomelet092">Cheese</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#fineherbsomelet092">Fine Herbs</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#onionomelet092">Onion</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#plainomelet091">Plain</a>, 91</li> - <li><a href="#potatoomelet092">Potato</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#sweetpotatoomelet092">Potato, Sweet</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#omeletsouffle093">Soufflée</a>, 93</li> - <li><a href="#sweetomelet094">Sweet</a>, 94</li> - <li><a href="#vegetableomelet095">Vegetable</a>, 95</li> - <li><a href="#omeletwithjam094">with Jam</a>, 94</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#omelets089">Omelets</a>, 89</li> - - <li><a href="#onionomelet092">Onion Omelet</a>, 92 - <ul> - <li><a href="#onionsalad104">Salad</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#onionsauce055">Sauce</a>, 55 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsauce055">Brown</a>, 55</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#onionsoup035">Soup</a>, 35 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsoup036">Brown</a>, 36</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandonions087">Onions and Eggs</a>, 87 - <ul> - <li><a href="#bakedonions146">Baked</a>, 146</li> - <li><a href="#plainonions146">Plain</a>, 146</li> - <li><a href="#stewedonions147">Stewed</a>, 147</li> - <li><a href="#stuffedonions115">Stuffed</a>, 115</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#orangecheesecake170">Orange Cheesecakes</a>, 170 - <ul> - <li><a href="#orangecream166">Cream</a>, 166</li> - <li><a href="#orangefritters120">Fritters</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#orangejelly160">Jelly</a>, 160</li> - <li><a href="#orangecreamsauce056">Sauce</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#orangewaterice176">Water Ice</a>, 176</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#oxtailsoup036">Ox-tail Soup</a>, 36</li> - -</ul> - -<ul> - <li><a href="#artichokesoup024">Palestine Soup</a>, 24</li> - - <li><a href="#nalesnikis116">Pancakes, Polish</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#parsleysauce056">Parsley Sauce</a>, 56 - <ul> - <li>To Blanch, </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#parsnipcake147">Parsnip Cake</a>, 147 - <ul> - <li><a href="#parsnipsoup036">Soup</a>, 36</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#parsnips147">Parsnips</a>, 147 - <ul> - <li><a href="#friedparsnips147">Fried</a>, 147</li> - <li><a href="#mashedparsnips147">Mashed</a>, 147</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#pastrywithbutter184">Paste for Pies</a>, 184. - <ul> - <li> - <ul> - <li><a href="#puddings182">Puddings</a>, 185.</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#pastrywithoutbutter183">without Butter</a>, 183.</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#peachfritters120">Peach Fritters</a>, 120</li> - - <li><a href="#tinnedpeaches156">Peaches, Tinned</a>, 156 - <ul> - <li><a href="#peachesandapricotswithcream156">with Cream</a>, 156</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">Pea Soup, Dried Green</a>, 37 - <ul> - <li><a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">Split Peas</a>, 37</li> - <li><a href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">Fresh Green</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#boiledpeas148">Peas, Boiled</a>, 148 - <ul> - <li><a href="#peasbrose134">Brose</a>, 134</li> - <li><a href="#driedpeas133">Dried</a>, 133</li> - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeaswithcream135">Dried Green with Cream</a>, 135</li> - <li><a href="#driedwholegreenpeas134">Dried whole Green</a>, 134</li> - <li><a href="#greenpeas148">Green</a>, 148</li> - <li><a href="#peaspudding134">Pudding</a>, 134</li> - <li><a href="#stewedpeas148">Stewed</a>, 148</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedpeas153">Tinned</a>, 153</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#pearsoup037">Pear Soup</a>, 37</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedpears173">Pears, Stewed</a>, 173 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tinnedpears156">Tinned</a>, 156</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#mushroompie110">Pie, Mushroom</a>, 110 - <ul> - <li><a href="#coldmushroompie110">Mushroom, Cold</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#potatopie112">Potato</a>, 112</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinpie113">Pumpkin</a>, 113</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#chapter14">Pies and Puddings, General</a>, 183 - <ul> - <li><a href="#pastrywithbutter184">Paste for</a>, 184.</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#pineapplefritters120">Pine Apple Fritters</a>, 120 - <ul> - <li><a href="#fruitwaterice177">Ice</a>, 177</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplejelly162">Jelly</a>, 162</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplesauce056">Sauce</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedpineapple156">Tinned</a>, 156</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#piroskisernikis116">Piroski Sernikis</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#pistachiocream167">Pistachio Cream</a>, 167</li> - - <li><a href="#plumjam164">Plum Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#plumsauce056">Sauce</a>, 56</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#stewedplums174">Plums, Stewed</a>, 174</li> - - <li><a href="#polenta115">Polenta</a>, 115</li> - - <li><a href="#poachedeggs081">Poached Eggs</a>, 81</li> - - <li><a href="#poivradesauce057">Poivrade Sauce</a>, 57</li> - - <li><a href="#nalesnikis116">Polish Pancakes</a>, 116</li> - - <li><a href="#riceandbarleyporridge075">Porridge, Barley and Rice</a>, - 75 - <ul> - <li><a href="#milkporridge075">Milk</a>, 75</li> - <li><a href="#lentilporridge075">Lentil</a>, 75</li> - <li><a href="#oatmealporridge073">Oatmeal</a>, 73</li> - <li><a href="#sagoporridge077">Sago</a>, 77</li> - <li><a href="#wholemealporridge075">Whole Meal</a>, 75</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#potatoballs127">Potato Balls</a>, 127 - <ul> - <li><a href="#potatobiscuits129">Biscuits</a>, 129</li> - <li><a href="#potatoborder128">Border</a>, 128</li> - <li><a href="#potatobread129">Bread</a>, 129</li> - <li><a href="#potatocake129">Cake</a>, 129</li> - <li><a href="#potatocheese130">Cheese</a>, 130</li> - <li><a href="#potatocheesecake169">Cheesecake</a>, 169</li> - <li><a href="#potatochips126">Chips</a>, 126</li> - <li><a href="#potatocroquettes127">Croquettes</a>, 127</li> - <li><a href="#potatofritters120">Fritters</a>, 120</li> - <li><a href="#potatoomelet092">Omelet</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#sweetpotatoomelet092">Omelet, Sweet</a>, 92</li> - <li><a href="#potatoribbon126">Ribbon</a>, 126</li> - <li><a href="#potatosalad101">Salad</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#potatosoup038">Soup</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#eggsandpotatoes087">Potatoes and Eggs</a>, 87 - <ul> - <li><a href="#potatoesalabarigoule130">à la Barigoule</a>, 130</li> - <li><a href="#potatoesalalyonnaise131">à la Lyonnaise</a>, 131</li> - <li><a href="#potatoesalamaitredhotel127">à la Maître d’Hôtel</a>, 127</li> - <li><a href="#potatoesalaprovencale131">à la Provençale</a>, 131</li> - <li><a href="#bakedpotatoes125">Baked</a>, 125</li> - <li><a href="#plainboiledpotatoes123">Boiled</a>, 123</li> - <li><a href="#broiledpotatoes131">Broiled</a>, 131</li> - <li><a href="#friedpotatoes126">Fried</a>, 126</li> - <li><a href="#mashedpotatoes125">Mashed</a>, 125</li> - <li><a href="#newpotatoes127">New</a>, 127</li> - <li><a href="#sauteepotatoes126">Sauté</a>, 126</li> - <li><a href="#steamedpotatoes124">Steamed</a>, 124</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#poundcake179">Pound Cake</a>, 179</li> - - <li><a href="#prunesauce057">Prune Sauce</a>, 57</li> - - <li><a href="#stewedprunes173">Prunes, Stewed</a>, 173</li> - - <li><a href="#cheesepudding114">Pudding, Cheese</a>, 114 - <ul> - <li><a href="#frenchbeanspudding140">French Bean</a>, 140</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompudding111">Mushroom</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#peaspudding134">Peas</a>, 134</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinpudding113">Pumpkin</a>, 113</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#puddings182">Puddings</a>, 182</li> - - <li><a href="#pumpkinalaparmesane115">Pumpkin à la Parmesane</a>, 115 - <ul> - <li><a href="#pumpkinpie113">Pie</a>, 113</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinpudding113">Pudding</a>, 113</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinsoup039">Soup</a>, 39</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#endivesoup031">Purée, Endive</a>, 31 - <ul> - <li><a href="#lentilalasoubise034">Lentils</a>, 34</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompureesauce055">Mushroom</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">of Beans, Red</a>, 26,</li> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">of Beans, White</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#chestnutsoup030">of Chestnuts</a>, 30</li> - <li><a href="#sorrelsauce058">Sorrel</a>, 58</li> - </ul> - </li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#welshrarebit115">Rarebit, Welsh</a>, 115</li> - - <li><a href="#icesfromfreshfruit176">Raspberry Ice</a>, 176 - <ul> - <li><a href="#raspberryjam164">Jam</a>, 164</li> - <li><a href="#raspberryjelly161">Jelly</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#raspberrysauce057">Sauce</a>, 57</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#cheeseramequins114">Ramequins, Cheese</a>, 114</li> - - <li><a href="#ratafiasauce057">Ratafia Sauce</a>, 57</li> - - <li><a href="#ravigottesauce057">Ravigotte Sauce</a>, 57</li> - - <li><a href="#redcurrantjam164">Red Currant Jam</a>, 164 - <ul> - <li><a href="#redcurrantjelly161">Jelly</a>, 161</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantsauce050">Sauce</a>, 50</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">Red Haricot Bean Soup</a>, 26</li> - - <li><a href="#rhubarbsoup039">Rhubarb Soup</a>, 39 - <ul> - <li><a href="#stewedrhubarb173">Stewed</a>, 173</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#rice060">Rice</a>, 60 - <ul> - <li><a href="#riceandbarleyporridge075">and Barley Porridge</a>, - 75</li> - <li><a href="#riceandcabbage063">and Cabbage</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#riceandcheese063">and Cheese</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#riceandeggs066">and Eggs</a>, 66</li> - <li><a href="#riceandgingerfritters121">and Ginger Fritters</a>, - 121</li> - <li><a href="#riceandtomatoes066">and Tomatoes</a>, 66</li> - <li><a href="#boiledrice061">Boiled</a>, 61</li> - <li><a href="#riceborder064">Border</a>, 64</li> - <li><a href="#ricecroquettes065">Croquettes</a>, 65</li> - <li><a href="#curriedrice063">Curried</a>, 63</li> - <li><a href="#ricefritters121">Fritters</a>, 121</li> - <li><a href="#ricesoup039">Soup</a>, 39</li> - <li><a href="#ricesoupalaroyale039">Soup à la Royale</a>, - 39</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#risotto062">Risotto</a>, 62</li> - - <li><a href="#robertsauce058">Robert Sauce</a>, 58</li> - - <li><a href="#roux022">Roux, Brown</a>, 22 - <ul> - <li><a href="#roux022">White</a>, 22</li> - </ul> - </li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#sageandonionfritters118">Sage and Onion Fritters</a>, 118</li> - - <li><a href="#sagoporridge077">Sago Porridge</a>, 77 - <ul> - <li><a href="#sagosoup040">Soup</a>, 40</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#artichokesalad102">Salad, Artichoke</a>, 102 - <ul> - <li><a href="#asparagussalad101">Asparagus</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#broadbeansalad103">Bean, Broad</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#haricotbeansalad103">Bean, Haricot</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#beetrootsalad102">Beetroot</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersalad104">Cauliflower</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#celerysalad103">Celery</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#cucumbersalad102">Cucumber</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#dandelionsalad103">Dandelion</a>, 103</li> - <li><a href="#eggsalad099">Egg</a>, 99</li> - <li><a href="#endivesalad100">Endive</a>, 100</li> - <li><a href="#englishsalad097">English</a>, 97</li> - <li><a href="#frenchsalad097">French</a>, 97</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansalad102">French Beans</a>, 102</li> - <li><a href="#germansalad100">German</a>, 100</li> - <li><a href="#hopsalad104">Hop</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#italiansalad104">Italian</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#mayonnaisesalad098">Mayonnaise</a>, 98</li> - <li><a href="#melonsalad105">Melon</a>, 105</li> - <li><a href="#mixedsalad098">Mixed</a>, 98</li> - <li><a href="#mustardandcresssalad104">Mustard and Cress</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#onionsalad104">Onion</a>, 104</li> - <li><a href="#potatosalad101">Potato</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#salsifysalad101">Salsify</a>, 101</li> - <li><a href="#sweetsalad105">Sweet</a>, 105</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosalad099">Tomato</a>, 99</li> - <li><a href="#watercresssalad103">Water-cress</a>, 103</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#salads096">Salads</a>, 96</li> - - <li><a href="#boiledsalsify151">Salsify, Boiled</a>, 151 - <ul> - <li><a href="#salsifysalad101">Salad</a>, 101</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sandwiches105">Sandwiches</a>, 105 - <ul> - <li><a href="#cheesesandwiches107">Cheese</a>, 107</li> - <li><a href="#creamcheesesandwiches107">Cream Cheese</a>, 107</li> - <li><a href="#eggsandwiches106">Egg</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#indiansandwiches106">Indian</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsandwiches106">Mushroom</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#mustardandcresssandwiches106">Mustard and Cress</a>, 106</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosandwiches105">Tomato</a>, 105</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#allemandesauce044">Sauce, Allemande</a>, 44 - <ul> - <li><a href="#almondsauce044">Almond</a>, 44</li> - <li><a href="#almondsauceclear045">Almond, Clear</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#applesauce045">Apple</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#arrowrootsauce045">Arrowroot</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesauce045">Artichoke</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussauce045">Asparagus</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#breadsauce045">Bread</a>, 45</li> - <li><a href="#buttersauce046">Butter</a>, 46</li> - <li><a href="#blackbutter048">Butter, Black</a>, 48</li> - <li><a href="#oiledbutter048">Butter, Oiled</a>, 48</li> - <li><a href="#capersauce049">Caper</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#carrotsauce049">Carrot</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersauce049">Cauliflower</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#celerysauce049">Celery</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cherrysauce049">Cherry</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#chestnutsauce049">Chestnut</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cinnamonsauce049">Cinnamon</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cocoanutsauce049">Cocoa-nut</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#cucumbersauce049">Cucumber</a>, 49</li> - <li><a href="#blackcurrantsauce050">Currant, Black</a>, 50</li> - <li><a href="#redcurrantsauce050">Currant, Red</a>, 50</li> - <li><a href="#currysauce050">Curry</a>, 50</li> - <li><a href="#dutchsauce051">Dutch</a>, 51 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greendutchsauce051">Green</a>, 51</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#eggsauce051">Egg</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#fennelsauce051">Fennel</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#germansweetsauce051">German Sweet</a>, 51</li> - <li><a href="#gingersauce052">Ginger</a>, 52</li> - <li><a href="#gooseberrysauce052">Gooseberry</a>, 52</li> - <li><a href="#horseradishsauce052">Horseradish</a>, 52</li> - <li><a href="#indianpicklesauce053">Indian Pickle</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#italiansauce053">Italian</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#maitredhotelsauce053">Maître - d’Hôtel</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#mangochutneysauce053">Mango Chutney</a>, 53</li> - <li><a href="#mayonnaisesauce053">Mayonnaise</a>, 53 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greenmayonnaisesauce054">Green</a>, 54</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#mintsauce054">Mint</a>, 54</li> - <li><a href="#mushroomsauce054">Mushroom</a>, 54 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownmushroomsauce055">Brown</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#mushroompureesauce055">Purée</a>, 55</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#mustardsauce055">Mustard</a>, 55</li> - <li><a href="#onionsauce055">Onion</a>, 55 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsauce055">Brown</a>, 55</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#orangecreamsauce056">Orange Cream</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#parsleysauce056">Parsley</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#pineapplesauce056">Pine Apple</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#plumsauce056">Plum</a>, 56</li> - <li><a href="#poivradesauce057">Poivrade</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#prunesauce057">Prune</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#radishsauce057">Radish</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#raspberrysauce057">Raspberry</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#ratafiasauce057">Ratafia</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#ravigottesauce057">Ravigotte</a>, 57</li> - <li><a href="#robertsauce058">Robert</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#sorrelsauce058">Sorrel</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#soubisesauce058">Soubise</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#sweetsauce058">Sweet</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#tarragonsauce058">Tarragon</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#tartarsauce058">Tartar</a>, 58</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosauce059">Tomato</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#trufflesauce059">Truffle</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#vanillasauce059">Vanilla</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#whitesauce059">White</a>, 59</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sauces044">Sauces</a>, 44</li> - - <li><a href="#savouryrice066">Savoury Rice</a>, 66</li> - - <li><a href="#scotchbroth040">Scotch Broth</a>, 40 - <ul> - <li><a href="#scotchkale148">Kale</a>, 148</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#seakale148">Sea Kale</a>, 148 - <ul> - <li><a href="#seakalesoup040">Soup</a>, 40</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sorrelsauce058">Sorrel Sauce</a>, 58 - <ul> - <li><a href="#sorrelsoup040">Soup</a>, 40</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#soubisesauce058">Soubise Sauce</a>, 58</li> - - <li><a href="#cheesesouffle092">Soufflé, Cheese</a>, 92 - <ul> - <li><a href="#omeletsouffle093">Omelet</a>, 93</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#almondsoup023">Soup, Almond</a>, 23 - <ul> - <li><a href="#applesoup024">Apple</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesoup024">Artichoke</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#asparagussoup024">Asparagus</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#barleysoup025">Barley</a>, 25</li> - <li><a href="#frenchbeansoup027">Bean, French</a>, 27 - <ul> - <li><a href="#greenbeansoup027">Green</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#redharicotbeansoup026">Haricot, Red</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">Haricot, White</a> 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#beetrootsoup026">Beetroot</a>, 26</li> - <li><a href="#cabbagesoup027">Cabbage</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#carrotsoup027">Carrot</a>, 27</li> - <li><a href="#cauliflowersoup028">Cauliflower</a>, 28</li> - <li><a href="#celerysoup029">Celery</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#cheesesoup029">Cheese</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#cherrysoup029">Cherry</a>, 29</li> - <li><a href="#chestnutsoup030">Chestnut</a>, 30</li> - <li><a href="#clearsoup030">Clear</a>, 30</li> - <li><a href="#cocoanutsoup031">Cocoanut</a>, 31</li> - <li><a href="#cottagesoup030">Cottage</a>, 30</li> - <li><a href="#endivesoup031">Endive</a>, 31</li> - <li><a href="#fruitsoup031">Fruit</a>, 31</li> - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">Green Pea, Dried</a>, 37 - <ul> - <li><a href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">Fresh</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#haresoup032">Hare</a>, 32</li> - <li><a href="#hotchpotch032">Hotch Potch</a>, 32</li> - <li><a href="#jardinieresoup033">Jardinière</a>, 33</li> - <li><a href="#juliennesoup033">Julienne</a>, 33</li> - <li><a href="#leeksoup033">Leek</a>, 33</li> - <li><a href="#lentilsoup033">Lentil</a>, 33</li> - <li><a href="#lentilalasoubise034">Lentil à la Soubise</a>, - 34</li> - <li><a href="#clearmacaronisoup034">Macaroni, Clear</a>, 34 - <ul> - <li><a href="#thickmacaronisoup034">Thick</a>, 34</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#milksoup035">Milk</a>, 35</li> - <li><a href="#mockturtlesoup035">Mock Turtle</a>, 35</li> - <li><a href="#mulligatawnysoup035">Mulligatawny</a>, 35</li> - <li><a href="#onionsoup035">Onion</a>, 35 - <ul> - <li><a href="#brownonionsoup036">Brown</a>, 36</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#oxtailsoup036">Ox-tail</a>, 36</li> - <li><a href="#artichokesoup024">Palestine</a>, 24</li> - <li><a href="#parsnipsoup036">Parsnip</a>, 36</li> - <li><a href="#pearsoup037">Pear</a>, 37</li> - <li><a href="#splitdriedpeasoup037">Pea, Split</a>, 37 - <ul> - <li><a href="#driedgreenpeasoup037">Green, Dried</a>, 37</li> - <li><a href="#freshgreenpeasoup038">Fresh</a>, 38</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#potatosoup038">Potato</a>, 38</li> - <li><a href="#pumpkinsoup039">Pumpkin</a>, 39</li> - <li><a href="#rhubarbsoup039">Rhubarb</a>, 39</li> - <li><a href="#ricesoup039">Rice</a>, 39 - <ul> - <li><a href="#ricesoupalaroyale039">à la Royale</a>, 39</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#sagosoup040">Sago</a>, 40</li> - <li><a href="#scotchbroth040">Scotch Broth</a>, 40</li> - <li><a href="#seakalesoup040">Sea Kale</a>, 40</li> - <li><a href="#sorrelsoup040">Sorrel</a>, 40</li> - <li><a href="#spinachsoup041">Spinach</a>, 41</li> - <li><a href="#tapiocasoup041">Tapioca</a>, 41</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosoup041">Tomato</a>, 41</li> - <li><a href="#turnipsoup042">Turnip</a>, 42</li> - <li><a href="#jardinieresoup033">Vegetable</a>, 33 - <ul> - <li><a href="#vegetablemarrowsoup042">Marrow</a>, 42</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#vermicellisoup042">Vermicelli</a>, 42 - <ul> - <li><a href="#whitevermicellisoup042">White</a>, 42</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#whitesoup043">White</a>, 43</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#soups023">Soups</a>, 23 - <ul> - <li><a href="#soupgeneral017">General Instructions</a>, 17</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sparghetti067">Sparghetti</a>, 67</li> - - <li><a href="#spinach149">Spinach</a>, 149 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsandspinach085">and Eggs</a>, 85</li> - <li><a href="#spinachextract025">Extract of</a>, 25</li> - <li><a href="#spinachfritters118">Fritters</a>, 118</li> - <li><a href="#spinachsoup041">Soup</a>, 41</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedspinach154">Tinned</a>, 154</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#stock021">Stock</a>, 21</li> - - <li><a href="#strawberrycream167">Strawberry Cream</a>, 167 - <ul> - <li><a href="#icesfromfreshfruit176">Ice</a>, 176</li> - <li><a href="#strawberryjam164">Jam</a>, 164</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#sweetfritters118">Sweet Fritters</a>, 118 - <ul> - <li><a href="#sweetomelet094">Omelet</a>, 94</li> - <li><a href="#sweetsalad105">Salads</a>, 105</li> - <li><a href="#sweetsauce058">Sauce</a>, 58 - <ul> - <li><a href="#germansweetsauce051">German</a>, 51</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - -</ul> - - <ul> - - <li><a href="#tagliatelli073">Tagliatelli</a>, 73</li> - - <li><a href="#tapiocasoup041">Tapioca Soup</a>, 41</li> - - <li><a href="#tarragonsauce058">Tarragon Sauce</a>, 58</li> - - <li><a href="#tartarsauce058">Tartar Sauce</a>, 58</li> - - <li><a href="#roux022">Thickening, Brown</a>, 22 - <ul> - <li><a href="#roux022">White</a>, 22</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#timbaleofmacaroni070">Timbale of Macaroni</a>, 70</li> - - <li><a href="#eggtoast085">Toast, Egg</a>, 85 - <ul> - <li><a href="#milktoast077">Milk</a>, 77</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#tomatofritters117">Tomato Fritters</a>, 117 - <ul> - <li><a href="#tomatopie112">Pie</a>, 112</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosalad099">Salad</a>, 99</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosandwiches105">Sandwiches</a>, 105</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosauce059">Sauce</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#tomatosoup041">Soup</a>, 41</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#macaroniandtomatoes072">Tomatoes and Macaroni</a>, 72 - <ul> - <li><a href="#riceandtomatoes066">and Rice</a>, 66</li> - <li><a href="#tomatoesaugratin111">au Gratin</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#bakedtomatoes111">Baked</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#friedtomatoes111">Fried</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#grilledtomatoes111">Grilled</a>, 111</li> - <li><a href="#stewedtomatoes111">Stewed</a>, 111</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#trufflesauce059">Truffle Sauce</a>, 59</li> - - <li><a href="#turnipsoup042">Turnip Soup</a>, 42 - <ul> - <li><a href="#turniptops151">-tops</a>, 151 - <ul> - <li><a href="#eggsandturniptops085">and Eggs</a>, 85</li> - </ul> - </li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#boiledturnips150">Turnips, Boiled</a>, 150 - <ul> - <li><a href="#mashedturnips150">Mashed</a>, 150</li> - <li><a href="#ornamentalturnips150">Ornamental</a>, 150</li> - <li><a href="#tinnedturnips155">Tinned</a>, 155</li> - </ul> - </li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#vanillacream166">Vanilla Cream</a>, 166 - <ul> - <li><a href="#variousfritters119">Fritters</a>, 119</li> - <li><a href="#cheapicecream176">Ice</a>, 176</li> - <li><a href="#vanillasauce059">Sauce</a>, 59</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#curriedvegetables151">Vegetable Curry</a>, 151 - <ul> - <li><a href="#vegetablemarrow149">Marrow</a>, 149 - <ul> - <li><a href="#vegetablemarrowsoup042">Soup</a>, 42</li> - <li><a href="#stuffedvegetablemarrow149">Stuffed</a>, 149</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#vegetableomelet095">Omelet</a>, 95</li> - <li><a href="#vegetablesoup042">Soup</a>, 42</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#chapter8">Vegetables, Fresh</a>, 137 - <ul> - <li><a href="#chapter9">Preserved</a>, 152</li> - <li><a href="#chapter7">Substantial</a>, 122</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#vermicellisoup042">Vermicelli Soup</a>, 42 - <ul> - <li><a href="#whitevermicellisoup042">Thick</a>, 42</li> - </ul> - </li> - - </ul> - - <ul> - <li><a href="#watercresssalad103">Water-cress Salad</a>, 103</li> - - <li><a href="#welshporridge146">Welsh Porridge</a>, 146 - <ul> - <li><a href="#welshrarebit115">Rarebit</a>, 115</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#haricotbeansalad103">White Haricot Bean Salad</a>, 103 - <ul> - <li> - <ul> - <li><a href="#whiteharicotbeansoup026">Soup</a>, 26</li> - </ul> - </li> - <li><a href="#roux022">Roux</a>, 22</li> - <li><a href="#whitesauce059">Sauce</a>, 59</li> - <li><a href="#whitesoup043">Soup</a>, 43</li> - <li><a href="#roux022">Thickening</a>, 22</li> - </ul> - </li> - - <li><a href="#bread180">Whole-meal Bread</a>, 180 - <ul> - <li><a href="#wholemealporridge075">Porridge</a>, 75</li> - </ul> - </li> - -</ul> -<ul> - - <li><a href="#zuchettifarcis115">Zucchetti Farcis</a>, 115</li> -</ul> - - - -<p class="centre"> -PRINTED BY -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, -LONDON, E.C. -</p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - Cheap Edition (11<em>th Thousand</em>). - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Cloth gilt, <strong>2s. 6d.</strong> - </p> - - <h2 class="bookad">What Girls Can Do. <span class="unbold">A Book for - Mothers and Daughters. By PHYLLIS BROWNE, Author of “A - Year’s Cookery.”</span></h2> - - <p> - “Girls who are forced to earn their livelihood, are ambitious of - making themselves useful, or only desire not to be idle, may all - consult with advantage these pages, which have the great merit of being - within the compass of all to profit - by.”—<cite>Times</cite>. - </p> - -<p class="centre"> -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London.</em> -</p> -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Seventh and Cheap Edition.</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - Price <strong>1s. 6d.</strong>; cloth, <strong>2s.</strong> - </p> - - <h2 class="bookad">A Handbook of Nursing for the Home and for the - Hospital. <span class="unbold">By CATHERINE J. WOOD, Lady - Superintendent of the Hospital for Sick Children, Great Ormond - Street.</span></h2> - - <p> - “A book which every mother of a family ought to have, as well as - every nurse under training.”—<cite>Guardian</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Ninth Edition</em>, extra fcap. 8vo, cloth, <strong>6s.</strong> - </p> - - <h2 class="bookad">The Ladies’ Physician. <span class="unbold">A - Guide for Women to the Treatment of their Ailments. By a London - Physician.</span></h2> - - <p> - “The statements are accurate, the opinions sound, and the advice - judicious.”—<cite>Medical Times</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London.</em> - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>Cheap Edition</em>. Price 6d. - </p> - - <h2 class="bookad">How Women may Earn a Living. <span class="unbold">By - MERCY GROGAN.</span></h2> - - <p> - “In a lucid and concise manner are embodied a large number of - suggestions in which ladies who have to depend upon their own exertions - for their support could be helped.”—<cite>Daily - Telegraph</cite>. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <p class="centre"> - 52<em>nd Thousand</em>. Stiff covers, 1s.; - cloth, 1s. 6d. - </p> - - <h2>Etiquette of Good Society.</h2> - - <p> - “A book which may fairly be considered a recognised authority. It - covers the whole of our lives in all their varying phases, and is as - pleasantly written an it is instructive.”—<cite>The - Queen</cite>. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London.</em> - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <h2>HEALTH HANDBOOKS.</h2> - - <hr /> - - <h3 class="bookad">Health at School. <span class="unbold">By CLEMENT DUKES, - M.D., B.S., Physician to Rugby School and to - Rugby Hospital. 7s. 6d.</span></h3> - - <p> - “A most excellent little - volume.”—<cite>Athenæum</cite>. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <h3 class="bookad">The Influence of Clothing on - Health. <span class="unbold">By FREDERICK TREVES, F.R.C.S, - Surgeon to, and Lecturer on Anatomy at, the - London Hospital. 2s.</span></h3> - - <p> - “An admirable treatise, the subject being dealt with in a very - thorough and interesting manner.”—<cite>The Hospital</cite>. - </p> - - <hr /> - - <h3 class="bookad">The Eye, Ear, and Throat (The - Management of). <span class="unbold">3s. 6d.</span></h3> - - <p> - <strong>The Eye and Sight.</strong> By HENRY POWER, - M.B., F.R.C.S. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>The Ear and Hearing.</strong> By GEORGE P. FIELD. - </p> - - <p> - <strong>The Throat, Voice, and Speech.</strong> By JOHN - S. BRISTOWE, M.D., F.R.S. - </p> - - <p> - “Altogether this work is superior to any popular publication of - its kind which has hitherto appeared.”—<cite>Athenæum</cite>. - </p> - - <hr /> - -<p class="centre"> -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. -</p> -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>New and Revised Edition</em>, price <strong>21s.;</strong> roxburgh, <strong>25s</strong> - </p> - - <h2>The Family Physician.</h2> - - -<h3>A Manual of Domestic Medicine by Physicians and -Surgeons of the principal London Hospitals.</h3> - -<p> -The range of subjects dealt with is wonderfully comprehensive, and -<strong>the book will be worth ten times its cost</strong> by helping many -a one to ward off some of the ‘ills that flesh is heir to.’ It -is of inestimable value. Many years’ experience of its far-reaching -usefulness and trustworthiness enables us to commend the work with the -utmost confidence. It is based on the best of medical principles in showing -how to avoid and prevent illness, but goes much further than this, by -providing judicious advice for all cases of -emergency.”—<cite>Daily Chronicle</cite>. -</p> - -<p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>AUTHORITATIVE WORK ON HEALTH BY EMINENT PHYSICIANS AND - SURGEONS.</strong> - </p> - - <h2>The Book of Health.</h2> - - <p> - <strong>A Systematic Treatise for the Professional and - General Reader upon the Science and the Preservation - of Health 21s.</strong> - </p> - - <p> - <em>Roxburgh</em> <strong>25s.</strong> - </p> - - <p> - “THE BOOK OF HEALTH,” says the <cite>Lancet</cite>, “is what it aims to be—authoritative, - and must become <strong>a standard work of reference</strong> not only with - those who are responsible for the health of schools, workshops, and other establishments - where there is a large concourse of individuals, but to <strong>every member of - the community</strong> who is anxious to secure the highest possible degree of healthy - living for himself and for his family”. - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <p class="bookad"> - <em>CASSELL & COMPANY’S COMPLETE CATALOGUE, containing - Particulars of</em> UPWARDS OF ONE THOUSAND VOLUMES, <em>including - Bibles and Religious Works, Illustrated and Fine Art Volumes, - Children’s Books, Dictionaries, Educational Works, History, - Natural History, Household and Domestic Treatises, Science, Travels, - &c., together with a Synopsis of their numerous illustrated Serial - Publications, sent post free on application.</em> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, <em>Ludgate Hill, London</em>. - </p> - -</div> - -<div class="advert"> - - <h2>REDUCED PRICE LIST<br /> - OF<br /> - BARBER & COMPANY’S</h2> - - <h3>NEW SEASON TEAS</h3> - - <p class="textright"> - Per lb. - </p> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - Packoo, Pure Leaf Congo 1s. 2d.<br /> - Siftings from Choicest Black Teas 1s. - 2d.<br /> - Rich Sirupy New Season’s Onfa - Congo 1s. 4d.<br /> - Rich Sirupy Moning Congo 1s. 10d.<br /> - Finest ditto 2s. 4d.<br /> - Best Black Tea grown 2s. 10d.<br /> - Finest and Purest Gunpowder 3s. 10d.<br /> - Orange Pekoe (finest imported) 2s. - 10d.<br/> - Young Hyson (pure and fine) 1s. 10d.<br /> - </p> - - <h3>COFFEE.</h3> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - French, as used in Paris (per lb. Tin) 1s. - 0d.<br /> - </p> - - <p class="centre"> - This is the choicest and most carefully selected Coffee. Roasted on the - French Principle and mixed with the Finest Bruges Chicory. - </p> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - Fine Costa Rica (mixed with the Finest Bruges - Chicory) 1s. 5d.<br /> - - Finest Plantation (ditto) 1s. 5d.<br /> - - Rich Mysore (ditto) 1s. 7d.<br /> - - Rare Old Mocha (pure) 1s. 9d.<br /> - </p> - - <h3>COCOA.</h3> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - Finest Pure Trinidad (Ribbed or - Flaked) 1s. 4d.<br /> - Ditto, Prepared Soluble, 2s, 1s. 6d., and - 1s. per lb. - </p> - -<hr /> - -<p class="bookad"> -No Outrageous Names or Prices but <strong>CEYLON TEA</strong> (pure and -simple), 1s. 6d. per lb. (own packing). 2½ lb. Sample by post for -4s. 3d.; 4½ lbs. 7s. 6d.; 6 <span class="note">[Transcriber’s -note: Illegible.]</span> lbs. 10s. 9d -</p> - -<hr /> - -<p> -N.B.—No Charge for Carriage of Parcels of TEA <span -class="note">[Transcriber’s note: Illegible.]</span> and over in -England. <em>Cheques</em> <span class="note">[Transcriber’s note: -Illegible.]</span> -</p> - - <p class="centre"> - <strong>BARBER AND COMPANY</strong></p> - - <p class="centre"> - <em>(Established in the last Century)</em></p> - - <p class="centre"> - 274, REGENT CIRCUS, OXFORD STREET, W. - </p> - - <p class="adlistingunbold"> - 61, Bishopsgate Street, London E.C.<br /> - 102, Westbourne Grove, W.<br /> - 67, Brixton Road, S.W.<br /> - The Borough, London Bridge, S.E.<br /> - King’s Cross, N.<br /> - 42, Great Titchfield Street, W.<br /> - Manchester—93, Market Street.<br /> - Birmingham—Quadrant.<br /> - Liverpool—4, Church Street, Winston Buildings, and 62 London - Road.<br /> - Preston—104, Fishergate.<br /> - Bristol—33, Corn Street.<br /> - Brighton—148, North Street.<br /> - Hastings—Robertson Street, and Havelock Road. - </p> - -</div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. 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G. Payne - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery - A Manual Of Cheap And Wholesome Diet - -Author: A. G. Payne - -Release Date: January 4, 2005 [EBook #14594] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY *** - - - - -Produced by Feòrag NicBhrìde and the PG Online Distributed -Proofreading Team - - - - - - -CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - -BY A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - - * * * * * - -SUGG'S GOLD MEDAL "WESTMINSTER" -GAS KITCHENERS. - -ENAMELLED INSIDE AND UNDER HOT-PLATE. - -[Illustration] - -_PERFECT FOR ROASTING, BAKING, GRILLING, TOASTING, AND BOILING._ - -_WILL DO ALL THAT ANY STOVE OF THE SAME SIZE CAN DO--ONLY MUCH BETTER._ - -The only Gas Kitchener which Bakes Bread perfectly. Send for Pamphlet on -SUGG'S NEW METHOD OF BAKING BREAD. - -LET ON HIRE By the Gas Light and Coke Co., the South Metropolitan Gas Co., -Brentford, Tottenham, and many other Gas Companies. - -WILLIAM SUGG & CO., Ltd., REGENCY ST., WESTMINSTER. - - * * * * * - -Complete in Four Vols., price 5s. each. - -CASSELL'S - -Book of the Household. - -A Valuable and Practical Work on Every Department of Household Management. -_With Numerous Illustrations_. - -The _Guardian_ says: "AN EXCELLENT WORK, WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HANDS OF -EVERY HOUSEKEEPER, is CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD. Here we find the -most varied information and the soundest of advice. The household, its -members and their family life, are considered and discussed; children and -their training, health and disease, food and clothing, furnishing, -furniture, and household mechanics. The arrangement and treatment of these -various subjects are admirable, and the book is certainly a most valuable -and practical manual of household management." - -The _Queen_ says: "A BOOK SO HANDY AND PRACTICAL OUGHT TO BE ADOPTED BY -EVERY WELL-ORDERED FAMILY. Its plan is so comprehensive, it will include -every part of the house and its requirements, and all the members of the -family and their mutual relations, duties, and responsibilities." - -The _Weekly Dispatch_ says: "We do not know of any more practical or more -valuable work on household management. It is worth its weight in gold." - -The _Scotsman_ says: "The first volume has appeared of a book which -promises to be of great and extensive utility. It is A CYCLOPAEDIA OF -INFORMATION ON ALL QUESTIONS CONNECTED WITH THE MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD, -and does not enter into comparison with books that treat merely of -provisions for the table. Various hands have evidently been employed in -working up the various sections, and every subject is dealt with in a -thoroughly competent style. The book is admirably appointed in every -respect, and contains many illustrations, all of the most useful character, -and beautifully printed. EVERY ONE WHO HAS TO DO IN ANY WAY WITH THE -MANAGEMENT OF A HOUSEHOLD WILL FIND THIS BOOK INVALUABLE." - -The _Liverpool Mercury_ says: "CASSELL'S BOOK OF THE HOUSEHOLD is another -book, of a class of which many have been issued, and good books too; but -this one, by the thoroughness and comprehensiveness of its arrangement, -will go far to render the housewife who possesses it independent of all the -rest.... Many a housewife will find the articles interesting enough to be -taken up at any leisure hour." - -The _Glasgow Herald_ says: "The work promises to be the most complete thing -of the kind in existence, and even the first volume by itself is a perfect -household encyclopaedia." - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -SAVES TIME, TROUBLE, AND EXPENSE. - -ASK YOUR GROCER FOR GRIDLEY & CO'S ISINGLASSINE. - -"PURE, NUTRITIOUS AND WHOLESOME." - -_Arthur Hill Hassall_ -_E. Godwin Clayton_ - -A SIXPENNY PACKET WILL MAKE 1 QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY. - -NO BOILING OR SOAKING REQUIRED. TO BE HAD OF ALL GROCERS - -_THREE GOLD MEDALS AWARDED._ - -HIGHEST TESTIMONIALS. - - * * * * * - -The London Vegetarian Society, - -THE MEMORIAL HALL, FARRINGDON STREET, E.C. - -President--A.F. HILLS, Esq. -Treasurer--ERNEST BELL, Esq., M.A. -Secretary--MAY YATES. - -THE LONDON VEGETARIAN SOCIETY is established for the purpose of advocating -the total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, -and promoting instead a more extensive use of fruits, grains, nuts, and -other products of the vegetable kingdom; and also to disseminate -information as to the meaning and principles of Vegetarianism by lectures, -pamphlets, letters to the Press, &c.; and by these means, and through the -example and efforts of its Members, to extend the adoption of a principle -tending essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to -the increase of human happiness generally. - -Members adopt in its entirety the Vegetarian system of diet. Associates -agree to promote the aims of the Society, but do not pledge themselves to -its practice. - -SUBSCRIBERS ARE ENTITLED TO THE FOLLOWING ADVANTAGES: - -ONE SHILLING PER ANNUM.--Minimum Subscription. - -FIVE SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four -Debates, and Four Conversaziones at half-price, and be entitled to receive, -free by post, copies of all new literature published by the Society under -6d. - -TEN SHILLINGS PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four -Debates, and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, copies of -all new literature published by the Society under 1s. - -ONE GUINEA PER ANNUM.--Tickets for Four Monthly Receptions, Four Debates -and Four Conversaziones, and to receive, free by post, all new literature -published by the Society under 2s., and copies of the _Vegetarian_, _The -Hygienic Review_, and the _Vegetarian Messenger_. - - * * * * * - -POOR MAN'S FRIEND AND PILLS. - -DR. ROBERTS' OINTMENT CALLED POOR MAN'S FRIEND Will Cure WOUNDS and SORES -of every description - -DR. ROBERTS' ALTERATIVE PILLS For DISEASES of the BLOOD and SKIN. - -_Of all Chemists, or of the Proprietors_, BRIDPORT, DORSET. - - * * * * * - -[Illustration] - -THE "RAPID" COOKERY STEAMER. - -TO FIT ANY SAUCEPAN. - -_From 1s. each._ - -OF ALL IRONMONGERS. - - * * * * * - -_NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION._ - -A YEAR'S COOKERY. - -Giving Dishes for Breakfast, Luncheon, and Dinner for every Day in the -Year, By PHYLLIS BROWNE. Cloth gilt, 3s. 6d. - -To the New Edition of this popular book (which has already attained a sale -of upwards of Twenty Thousand Copies) additional pages have been added on -Food for Invalids. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_Price_ 2s. 6d. - -A HANDBOOK FOR THE NURSING OF SICK CHILDREN. By CATHERINE J. WOOD. - -"Miss Wood's book is succinct, clearly written, and goes straight to the -heart of each detail in a thoroughly business-like fashion."--_Health_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_THE LARGEST, CHEAPEST, AND BEST COOKERY BOOK._ - -1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, 7s. 6d.; roxburgh, 10s. 6d. - -CASSELL'S -Dictionary of Cookery. - -ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT. - -CONTAINING ABOUT 9,000 RECIPES. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is one of the most thorough and -comprehensive works of the kind. To expatiate on its abundant contents -would demand pages rather than paragraphs."--_The Times_. - -"One of the most handsome, practical, and comprehensive books of -cookery."--_Saturday Review_. - -"It seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to be--that is, -the largest and most complete collection of the kind ever produced in this -country; an encyclopaedia, in fact, of the culinary art in all its -branches. It is a dictionary which should be in every household, and -studied by every woman who recognises her true mission in the -world."--_Christian World_. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY is not only full of solid and valuable -information as to the best method of preparing food in an endless variety -of forms, but it will enable a housekeeper to grasp principles on which -food may be cooked to the greatest perfection. It supplies the reason why -one method is right and another wrong. An estimate of the cost of each -recipe is given, which is valuable information. The recipes themselves are -given in terms intelligible to the meanest capacity."--_Athenaeum_. - -"CASSELL'S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY contains about 9,000 recipes, and is -preceded by a treatise on the Principles of Culinary Art and Table -Management, which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks, as -those most interested in such instructions, but by every mistress of a -household, large or small.... The woodcuts dispersed through the pages not -only illustrate some of the various species of fish, game, fruit, -vegetables, and herbs to which the recipes refer, but serve to make the -directions for carving more intelligible, while the coloured plates -represent appetising dishes elaborately garnished, or fruit tastefully -arranged, with several less inviting pictures of 'bad and good joints of -meat' contrasted with each other side by side."--_Morning Post_. - -"The best Cookery book extant. We know of no equal, either in the -arrangement of its contents, the number of its recipes, or the elegance of -its illustrations."--_York Herald_. - -"Being complete, it tells us how to dress a table for the smallest dinner, -but what I value more in it is that it reminds us of the simplest and -cheapest of dishes, and gives their cost. There are more shilling or -sixpenny preparations in this book than those of greater cost."--_Western -Morning News_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -CASSELL'S -VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - - * * * * * - -CROSSE & BLACKWELL'S PICKLES, SAUCES, FLAVOURING ESSENCES, - -_PARISIAN ESSENCE FOR GRAVIES_, - -Grated Parmesan Cheese in Bottles, - -PURE LUCCA OIL, - -Malt Vinegar and Table Delicacies, - -_ARE SOLD BY ALL GROCERS_. - -CROSSE & BLACKWELL, - -Purveyors to the Queen, - -SOHO SQUARE, LONDON. - - * * * * * - - -CASSELL'S VEGETARIAN COOKERY. - -A MANUAL OF _CHEAP AND WHOLESOME DIET_. - -BY - -A.G. PAYNE, B.A. - -AUTHOR OF "CHOICE DISHES," ETC. - -[Illustration] - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED: - -_LONDON, PARIS & MELBOURNE_. - -1891. - - * * * * * - -For Puddings, Blanc-Mange, Custards, CHILDREN'S AND INVALIDS' DIET, _And -all the Uses of Arrowroot_, - -BROWN & POLSON'S CORN FLOUR - -HAS A WORLD-WIDE REPUTATION, AND IS DISTINGUISHED FOR _UNIFORMLY SUPERIOR -QUALITY_. - -NOTE.--Purchasers should insist on being supplied with BROWN & POLSON'S -CORN FLOUR. Inferior qualities, asserting fictitious claims, are being -offered. - - * * * * * - -80th THOUSAND, _price_ 1s.; _post free_, 1s. 3d. - -CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY. - -This new and valuable Work contains 364 pages, crown 8vo, bound in limp -cloth. - -"This is the LARGEST AND MOST COMPREHENSIVE WORK on the subject of cookery -ever yet published at the price."--_Christian Age_. - -"Housekeepers WILL SAVE MANY SHILLINGS if they follow the practical -suggestions and excellent advice given."--_Bazaar_. - -"CASSELL'S SHILLING COOKERY is certainly the cheapest manual for the -kitchen we have ever received. There are 360 pages of recipes, the book is -serviceably bound, and should prove a treasure to any young wife."--_Weekly -Times and Echo_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - - - - -PREFACE. - - -The present work, though written upon strictly vegetarian principles, is by -no means addressed to vegetarians only. On the contrary, we hope that the -following pages of recipes will be read by that enormous class throughout -the country who during the last few years have been gradually changing -their mode of living by eating far _less_ meat, and taking vegetables and -farinaceous food as a substitute. - -Where there are thousands who are vegetarians from choice, there are tens -of thousands who are virtually vegetarians from necessity. Again, there is -another large class who from time to time adopt a vegetarian course of diet -on the ground of health, and as a means of escaping from the pains -attendant on gout, liver complaint, or dyspepsia. - -The class we most wish to reach, however, is that one, increasing we fear, -whose whole life is one continual struggle not merely to live, but to live -decently. - -It may seem a strong statement, but we believe it to be a true one, that -only those who have tried a strictly vegetarian course of diet know what -real _economy_ means. Should the present work be the means of enabling -even one family to become not only better in health but richer in pocket, -it will not have been written in vain. - -A.G. PAYNE. - - * * * * * - -SOLIDIFIED JELLY. - -[Illustration] - -By Royal Letters Patent in Great Britain and Ireland, 1888 Patented in the -Dominion of Canada, 1889. Patented in France, 1889. N. S. Wales, 1889. -Victoria, 1889. Other Foreign Rights reserved. - -CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES, - -The Inventor and Patentee, in introducing this high-class article of food, -begs to warn the Public that the great success and enormous demand the -CHELSEA TABLE JELLIES have obtained in Great Britain has brought many -imitators on the Market. A few Stores and Grocers are offering same to the -Public, no doubt for the purpose of wishing to appear cheaper, or for -making extra profit. The favour for the CHELSEA TABLE JELLY has been -obtained solely upon the merits of the article, and it is held to be the -greatest invention of the kind, bringing within the reach of all classes -this hitherto almost unobtainable luxury. This has been fully endorsed by -the unsolicited testimony of high-class British journals. - -The article is put up in cardboard boxes, in quantities to make 1/2-pints, -pints, and quarts of jelly, and the following are some of the flavours: -Lemon, Orange, Vanilla, Calves' Feet, Noyeau, Raspberry, Punch, and -Madeira. It should not be confounded with the ordinary fruit Jelly, which -is a totally different article, _this being a pure Calves' Feet jelly_, -superseding the use of gelatine in packets for jelly purposes--this latter, -as will easily be seen, being now a thing of the past. On each box is -printed a public analyst's report, also full directions for use. - -_The following advantages are claimed over all other Calves Feet -jellies_:-- - -1. It is less than one-third of the price of bottled jellies, and superior -in quality. - -2. It never gets mildewed or corky. - -3. It never fails to set or jellify. - -4. Its extreme simpleness of preparation, only requiring to be melted by -the addition of hot water, no flavouring or other matter being required. - -5. It will keep good for any time until made up, when it will keep good -longer than other jellies. - -6. The largest quantity can be made in a few minutes. - -For persons suffering from dyspepsia or any other ailment, it will also be -found to be a great boon, as it can be cut and eaten in the solidified -state with great satisfaction. On sea voyages and excursions of any kind -it will be found invaluable. - -_BEWARE OF SPURIOUS IMITATIONS, and ask only for the_ WALTER ROBERTSON -CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. - -ARTICLES OF MERIT ARE OFTEN PIRATED BY UNPRINCIPLED TRADERS. - -To be had of all GROCERS, STORES, and CONFECTIONERS. - - -_CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS_. - -Sample of CHELSEA TABLE JELLY. Received 1888. - -_I certify that the following are the results of the analysis of the above -samples_: - -I have examined a sample of Chelsea Table jelly, and find it to be a -mixture of Calves' Feet jelly and sugar; it is undoubtedly nutritious and -wholesome. - -It is superior to other samples that I have analysed, as it in much firmer -and keeps well. - -It is clear and bright, and has evidently been carefully manufactured from -pure materials. - -It has a pleasant flavour, and is of excellent quality. - -_(Signed)_ R. H. HARLAND, F.I,C., F.C.S. - -Laboratory, Plough Court, 37, Lombard Street. _Public Analyst_. - - -Copy of Testimonial received August 26th, 1891 (_unsolicited_). - -59, Windsor Road, Southport. _August 25th_, 1891. - -GENTLEMEN,--I may inform you that I have tried other makers of jellies, but -have found none to equal yours in excellence of quality. I have mentioned -this fact frequently to Mr. Seymour Mead and to my friends. I am also -deeply indebted to you from the fact that a little niece of mine was fed -almost exclusively on your Calves' Feet Jelly for a period of three months, -and who, when she refused to take other things, always took most willingly -to your jellies. - -Yours respectfully, - -W, ROBERTSON & Co. M. T. HANSON. - -_This and others may be inspected at the Works, Chelsea, London._ - - -INVENTORS AND SOLE MANUFACTURERS (WHOLESALE ONLY): - -WALTER ROBERTSON & CO., CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W., ENGLAND - - * * * * * - - - - -CONTENTS. - - -PAGE. - -CHAP. I.--Soups 17 - - II.--SAUCES 44 - III.--RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL 60 - IV.--EGGS AND OMELETS 78 - V.--SALADS AND SANDWICHES 96 - VI.--SAVOURY DISHES 108 - VII.--VEGETABLES, SUBSTANTIAL 122 - VIII.--VEGETABLES, FRESH 137 - IX.--PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS 152 - X.--JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS 158 - XI.--CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESECAKES 165 - XII.--STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES 171 - XIII.--CAKES AND BREAD 177 - XIV.--PIES AND PUDDINGS 182 - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S -PRIZE MEDAL. - -Flavouring Essences and Domestic Specialities - -FOR PIES, PUDDINGS, SOUPS, GRAVIES, ICES, &c. - -_Prepared direct from Herbs, Fruits, and Spices, gathered in their bloom -and freshness._ - -Specially awarded Prize Medals, Great International Exhibition, -London, 1851 and 1862. - -(Recommended for all the Recipes in this work.) - -_"E.F. LANGDALE'S" should always be insisted upon. -They are Purest, Best, and Cheapest._ - - -Essence Lemon. -Strong Essence Vanilla. -Purified Essence Almonds -Essence Noyau. - " Raspberries. -Essence Ginger. - " Orange. - " Ratafia. - " Celery. - " Strawberries. - - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S - -Fruit Pudding, Blancmange, and. Custard Powders - -MAKE DELICIOUS PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, & BLANCMANGE. - -_In 2d. and 6d. Packets. Sold everywhere._ - - -ALMOND. -LEMON. -VANILLA. -RASPBERRY. -PINE APPLE. -RATAFIA. -STRAWBERRY. -NECTARINE. -CHOCOLATE, &c. - - - * * * * * - -E.F. LANGDALE'S -Prepared Dried English Herbs, &c. - - -Garden Mint. -Savoury. -Parsley. -Sage. -Lemon Thyme. -Basil. -Mixed Sweet Herbs. - " Soup " -Tarragon. - - -_Celery Seeds. Celery Salt. Herbaceous Mixture._ - -E.F. LANGDALE'S REFINED JAMAICA LIME JUICE AND PURE LEMON JUICE. - -Distilled Tarragon and Chill Vinegar for Salads and Sauces. - - * * * * * - -Sole Agent for - -J. Delcroix & Cie. Concentrated Parisian Essence, - -FOR BROWNING GRAVIES, &c. (_See pages 20, 22._) Which should always be -bought with their Name. As used by all _Chefs_. - -J. DELCROIX & CIE. Pure Green Vegetable Coloured Spinach Extract. _Perfectly -Harmless_. - -J. DELCROIX & CIE. Brilliant Extract Cochineal for Tinting Ices, Pies, &c. - - * * * * * - -E. F. LANGDALE'S "Essence Distillery," - -72 & 73, HATTON GARDEN, LONDON, E.C. Estab. 1770. - -Pamphlets, Recipes, &c., post free. All the above can be obtained of any -leading Grocer. We will send name of nearest Agent on receipt of post -card. - - * * * * * - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -We wish it to be distinctly understood at starting, that the present work -is purely a cookery-book, written on the principles generally adopted by -vegetarians; and as, until quite recently, there seemed to be in the minds -of many some doubt as to the definition of vegetarianism, we will quote the -following explanation from the head of the report of the London Vegetarian -Society:--"The aims of the London Vegetarian Society are to advocate the -total disuse of the flesh of animals (fish, flesh, and fowl) as food, and -to promote a more extensive use of pulse, grains, fruits, nuts, and other -products of the vegetable kingdom, thus propagating a principle tending -essentially to true civilisation, to universal humaneness, and to the -increase of happiness generally." - -We have no intention of writing a treatise on vegetarianism, but we -consider a few words of explanation necessary. Years back many persons -were under the impression that by vegetarianism was meant simply an -abstention from flesh-meat, but that fish was allowed. Such, however, is -not the case, according to the rules of most of the Vegetarian Societies of -the day. On the other hand, strictly speaking, real vegetarians would not -be allowed the use of eggs and milk; but it appears that many use these, -though there are a considerable number of persons who abstain. There is no -doubt that the vegetable kingdom, without either milk or eggs, contains -every requisite for the support of the human body. In speaking on this -subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes:--"The vegetable kingdom comprehends -the cereals, legumes, roots, starches, sugar, herbs, and fruits. Persons -who style themselves vegetarians often consume milk, eggs, butter, and -lard, which are choice foods from the animal kingdom. There are other -persons, of course, who are strictly vegetarian eaters, and such alone have -any right to the title of vegetarians." - -In the following pages will be found ample recipes for the benefit of -parties who take either view. In questions of this kind there will always -be found conflicting views. We have no wish or desire to give opinions, -but consider it will be more advisable, and probably render the book far -more useful, if we confine ourselves as much as possible to facts. - -The origin of vegetarianism is as old as the history of the world itself, -and probably from time immemorial there have been sects which have -practised vegetarianism, either as a religious duty, or under the belief -that they would render the body more capable of performing religious -duties. In the year 1098, or two years prior to the date of Henry I., -there was a strictly vegetarian society formed in connection with the -Christian Church, which lived entirely on herbs and roots, and the society -has lasted to the present day. Again, there have been many sects who, not -so strict, have allowed themselves the use of fish. - -Again, there are those who adopt a vegetarian course of diet on the ground -of health. Many maintain that diseases like gout and dyspepsia would -disappear were vegetarian diet strictly adhered to. On the other hand, we -have physicians who maintain that the great cause of indigestion is not -eating enough. An American physician, some years ago, alleged he had -discovered the cause, his argument being that the more work the stomach had -to do the stronger it would become, on the same principle that the arm of a -blacksmith is more powerful in consequence of hard work. Of one thing we -are certain, and that is, there will always be rival physicians and rival -sects; but the present work will simply be a guide to _those who require, -from whatever cause, a light form of diet_. Perhaps the greatest benefit -vegetarians can do their cause--and there are many who think very strongly -on the subject--is to endeavour to take a dispassionate view. Rome was not -built in a day; and if we look back at the past history of this country, -during the last half-century, in regard to food, we shall see that there -have been many natural changes at work. Waves of thought take place -backwards and forwards, but still the tide may flow. Some fifty years ago -there was, undoubtedly, a strong impression (with a large number of -right-minded people) that plenty of meat, beer, and wine were good for all, -even for young children. The medical profession are very apt to run in -flocks, and follow some well-known leader. At the period to which we -refer, numbers of anxious mothers would have regarded the advice to bring -up their children as vegetarians and teetotallers as positive cruelty. -This old-fashioned idea has passed away. - -One great motive for adopting a course of vegetarian diet is economy; and -here we feel that we stand on firm ground, without danger of offending -sincere opinions, which are often wrongly called prejudices. To a great -extent, the majority of the human race are virtually vegetarians from -necessity. Nor do we find feebleness either of mind or body necessarily -ensues. We believe there are tens of thousands of families who would give -vegetarianism a trial were it not for fear. Persons are too apt to think -that bodily strength depends upon the nature of the food we eat. In India -we have a feeble race, living chiefly on rice. On the other hand, in -China, for bodily strength, few can compare with the Coolies. For many -years in Scotland the majority lived on oatmeal, while in Ireland they -lived on potatoes. We do not wish to argue anything from these points, but -to bring them forward for consideration. Probably, strength of body and -mind, as a general rule, depends upon breed, and this argument tells two -ways--it does not follow that vegetarians will be necessarily strong, and -will cease to be cruel; nor does it follow that those who have been -accustomed all their lives to eat meat will cease to be strong should they -become vegetarians. As we have said, the great motive that induces many to -give vegetarianism a trial is economy; and if persons would once get rid of -the idea that they risk their health by making a trial, much would be done -to advance the cause. - -Another great reason for persons hesitating to make a trial is the -revolution it would create in their households. Here again we are beset by -difficulties, and these difficulties can only disappear gradually, after -long years of patience. We believe the progress towards vegetarianism must -of necessity be a very slow one. No large West End tradesman could -possibly insist upon his whole establishment becoming vegetarians because -he becomes one himself. We believe and hope that the present work will -benefit those who are undergoing a slow but gradual change in their mode of -living. This is easiest in small households, where no servants are kept at -all, where the mistress is both cook and mother. It is in such households -that the change is possible, and very often most desirable. In many cases -trial will be made gradually. The great difficulty to contend with is -prejudice, or, rather, we may say, habit. There are many housekeepers who -feel that their bill of fare would instantly become extremely limited were -they to adopt vegetarian ideas. There are few better dinners--especially -for children--than a good basin of soup, with plenty of bread; yet, as a -rule, there are few housekeepers who would know how to make vegetarian soup -at all. In our present work we have given a list of sixty-four soups. At -any rate, here is no lack of variety, as small housekeepers in this country -are not famed for their knowledge of soup making, even with gravy-beef at -their disposal. - -On looking down this list it will be observed that in many cases cream--or, -at any rate, milk--is recommended. We can well imagine the housekeeper -exclaiming, "I don't call this economy." This is one point about which we -consider a few words of explanation necessary. We will suppose a family of -eight, who have been accustomed to live in the ordinary way, are going to -have a vegetarian dinner by way of trial. Some soup has to be made, and -one or two vegetables from the garden or the greengrocer's, as the case may -be, are going to be cooked on a new method, and the housekeeper is -horrified at the amount of butter she finds recommended for the sauce. -People must, however, bear in mind that changes are gradual, and that -often, at first starting, a degree of richness, or what they would consider -extravagance, is advisable if they wish to _reconcile others_ to the -change. In our dinner for eight we would first ask them how much meat -would they have allowed a head? At the very lowest computation, it could -not have been decently done under a quarter of a pound each, even if the -dish of meat took the economical form of an Irish stew; and had a joint, -such as a leg of mutton, been placed upon the table, it would probably have -been considerably more than double. Supposing, however, instead of the -meat, we have three vegetables--say haricot beans, potatoes, and a cabbage. -With the assistance of some really good butter sauce, these vegetables, -eaten with bread, make an agreeable meal, which, especially in hot weather, -would probably be a pleasant change. Supposing, for the sake of argument, -you use half a pound of butter in making the butter sauce. This sounds, to -ordinary cooks, very extravagant, even supposing butter to be only one -shilling per pound. Suppose, however, this half a pound of butter is used -as a means of going without a leg of mutton? That is the chief point to be -borne in mind in a variety of recipes to follow. The cream, butter, and -eggs are often recommended in what will appear as wholesale quantities, -but, as a set-off against this, you have no butcher's bill at all. We do -not maintain that this apparently unlimited use of butter, eggs, and -occasionally cream, is necessary; but we believe that there are many -families who will be only able to make the change by substituting "_nice_" -dishes, at any rate at first starting, to make up for the loss of the meat. -It is only by substituting a pleasant kind of food, that many will be -induced even to attempt to change. Gradually the living will become -cheaper and cheaper; but it is unwise to attempt, in a family, to do too -much at once. - -There are many soups we have given in which cream is recommended; for -instance, artichoke soup, bean soup, cauliflower soup, and celery soup. -After partaking of a well-made basin of one of these soups, followed by one -or two vegetables and a fruit pie or stewed fruit, there are many persons -who would voluntarily remark, "I don't seem to care for any meat." On the -other hand, were the vegetables served in the old-fashioned style, but -without any meat, there are many who would feel that they were undergoing a -species of privation, even if they did not say so--we refer to a dish of -plain-boiled potatoes and dry bread, or even the ordinary cabbage served in -the usual way. Supposing, however, a nice little new cabbage is sent to -table, with plenty of really good white sauce or butter sauce, over which -has been sprinkled a little bright green parsley, whilst some crisp fried -bread surrounds the dish--the cabbage is converted into a meal; and if we -take into account the absence of the meat, we still save enormously. The -advice we would give, especially to young housekeepers, is, "Persuasion is -better than force." If you wish to teach a child to swim, it is far easier -to entice him into shallow water on a hot summer's day than to throw him in -against his will in winter time. - -Another point which we consider of great importance is appearances. As far -as possible, we should endeavour to make the dishes look pretty. We are -appealing to a very large class throughout the country who at all cost wish -to keep up appearances. It is an important class, and one on which the -slow but gradual march of civilisation depends. We fear that any attempt -to improve the extreme poor, who live surrounded by dirt and misery, would -be hopeless, unless they still have some lingering feeling of this -self-respect. For the poor woman who snatches a meal off -bread-and-dripping, which she eats without a table-cloth, and then repairs -to the gin-shop to wash it down, nothing can be done. This class will -gradually die out as civilisation advances. This is seen, even in the -present day, in America. - -Fortunately, there is plenty of scope in vegetarian cooking not merely for -refinement, but even elegance. Do not despise the sprinkle of chopped -parsley and red specks of bread-crumbs coloured with cochineal, so often -referred to throughout the following pages. Remember that the cost of -these little accessories to comfort is virtually _nil_. We must remember -also that one sense works upon another. We can please the palate through -the eye. There is some undoubted connection between these senses. If you -doubt it, suck a lemon in front of a German band and watch the result. The -sight of meat causes the saliva to run from the mouths of the carnivorous -animals at the Zoo. This is often noticeable in the case of a dog watching -people eat, and it is an old saying, "It makes one's mouth water to look at -it." In the case of endeavouring to induce a change of living in grown-up -persons, such as husband or children, there is perhaps no method we can -pursue so efficacious as that of making dishes look pretty. A dish of -bright red tomatoes, reposing on the white bosom of a bed of macaroni, -relieved here and there by a few specks of green--what a difference to a -similar dish all mashed up together, and in which the macaroni showed signs -of dirty smears! - -We have endeavoured throughout this book to give chiefly directions about -those dishes which will replace meat. For instance, the vast majority of -pies and puddings will remain the same, and need no detailed treatment -here. Butter supplies the place of suet or lard, and any ordinary, -cookery-book will be found sufficient for the purpose; but it is in dealing -with soups, sauces, rice, macaroni, and vegetables, sent to table under new -conditions, that we hope this book will be found most useful. - -As a rule, English women cooks, especially when their title to the name -depends upon their being the mistress of the house, will often find that -soups and sauces are a weak point. Do not despise, in cooking, little -things. Those who really understand such matters will know how vast is the -difference in flavour occasioned by the addition of that pinch of thyme or -teaspoonful of savoury herbs, and yet there are tens of thousands of -houses, where meat is eaten every day, who never had a bottle of thyme at -their disposal in their lives. As we have said, if we are going to make a -great saving on meat, we can well afford a few trifles, so long as they are -trifles. A sixpenny bottle of thyme will last for months; and if we give -up our gravy beef, or piece of pickled pork, or two-pennyworth of bones, as -the case may be, surely we can afford a little indulgence of this kind. - -A few words on the subject of fritters. When will English housekeepers -grasp the idea of frying? They cannot get beyond a dab of grease or butter -in a frying-pan. The bath of boiling oil seems to be beyond them, or at -any rate a degree of civilisation that has not yet passed beyond the limit -of the fried-fish shop. The oil will do over and over again, and in the -end is undoubtedly cheaper than the dab of grease or butter thrown away. -There are hundreds of men who, in hot weather, would positively prefer a -well-cooked vegetable fritter to meat, but yet they rarely get it at home. -Fruit fritters are also very economical--orange fritters, apple fritters, -&c., because the batter helps to make the dish _a meal_. - -Those who have practised vegetarianism for many years will probably be of -opinion that we have not called sufficient attention to the subject of -fruit and nuts. This is not because we do not believe in their usefulness, -but because we think that those who are _changing_ their mode of living -will be far better enabled to do so without discomfort by making their -chief alterations in diet in the directions we have pointed out. There is -moreover little or no _cookery_ involved in these articles. - -Of the wholesomeness of fresh fruit all are agreed; and as people become -more advanced vegetarians, the desire for fruit and nuts will follow in due -course. In future years, as the demand increases, the supply will -increase; but this is a question of time. Lookers-on often see more of the -game than the players. It is not because the sudden change might not be -beneficial, but because sudden changes are only likely to be effected in -rare instances, that we have taken the view we have. Prejudice is strong, -and it would be very difficult to persuade persons, unless they had been -gradually brought to the change, to regard nuts in the light of food. To -suggest a meal off Brazil nuts would to many have a tendency to put -vegetarianism in a ridiculous light, and nothing kills so readily as -ridicule. - -In conclusion, it will be observed that from time to time we have used the -expression, "if wine be allowed." There is no necessary connection between -vegetarianism and teetotalism, but it would be affectation to deny the fact -that they are generally connected. Of the numerous arguments brought -forward by the advocates of vegetarianism, one is that, in the opinion of -many who speak with authority, a vegetarian diet is best adapted to -those--of whom, unfortunately, there are many--who, from time to time, have -a craving for more stimulant than is beneficial to their health. Many -medical men are of the opinion that large meat-eaters require alcoholic -stimulant, and that they can give up the latter more easily by abstaining -from the former. This is a question for medical men to decide, as it does -not properly come into the province of the cook. - -We have repeatedly mentioned the addition of wine and liqueurs; but when -these are used for flavouring purposes it is not to be regarded in the same -light as if taken alone. There is a common sense in these matters which -should never be overlooked. The teetotaler who attended the Lord Mayor's -dinner, and refused his glass of punch with his turtle-soup, would be -consistent; but to refuse the turtle-soup itself on the ground that a -little wine, probably Madeira, might have been added, would proclaim him to -be a faddist. It is to be regretted that in the present day so many good -causes have been injured by this ostentation of carrying ideas to an -extreme. Practically, where wine is used in cookery, it is added solely -for the peculiar flavour, and _the alcohol itself is evaporated_. To be -consistent, the vast majority of teetotal drinks, and possibly even stewed -fruit itself, would have to be refused on the same ground, viz., an almost -infinitely small trace of alcohol. We think it best to explain the reason -we have introduced the expression, "if wine be allowed." In each case it -is used for flavouring, and flavouring purposes only. We know that with -some persons a very small amount of stimulant creates a desire for more, -and when this is the case the small quantity should be avoided; but in the -case of the quantity being so infinitely small that it ceases to have this -effect, even if not boiled away as it really is, no harm can possibly -arise. Where wine is added to soups and sauces and exposed to heat, this -would be the case. On the other hand, in the case of tipsy-cake, and wine -added to _compote_ of fruit, this would probably not be the case. A great -distinction should be drawn between such cases. It will be found, however, -that in every case we have mentioned the addition is altogether optional, -or a substitute like lemon-juice can be used in its place. - - - - -VEGETARIAN COOKERY - -CHAPTER 1. - -SOUPS. - -GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. - - -There are very few persons, unless they have made vegetarian cookery a -study, who are aware what a great variety of soups can be made without the -use of meat or fish. As a rule, ordinary cookery-books have the one -exception of what is called _soup maigre_. In England it seems to be the -impression that the goodness of the soup depends upon the amount of -nourishment that can be compressed into a small space. It is, however, a -great mistake to think that because we take a large amount of nourishment -we are necessarily nourished. There is a limit, though what that limit is -no one can say, beyond which soup becomes absolutely injurious. A quarter -of a pound of Liebig's Extract of Meat dissolved in half a pint of water is -obviously an over-dose of what is considered nourishment. In France, as a -rule, soup is prepared on an altogether different idea. It is a light, -thin broth, taken at the commencement of the meal to strengthen the -stomach, in order to render it capable of receiving more substantial food -to follow. Vegetarian soups are, of course, to be considered from this -latter point of view. - -We think these few preliminary observations necessary as we have to -overcome a very strong English prejudice, which is too apt to despise -everything of which the remark can be made--"Ah! but there is very little -nourishment in it." Vegetarian soups, as a rule, and especially the thin -ones, must be regarded as a light and pleasant flavouring which, with a -small piece of white bread enables the most obstinately delicate stomach to -commence a repast that experience has found best adapted to its -requirements. - -The basis of all soup is stock, and in making stock we, of course, have to -depend upon vegetables, fruit, or some kind of farinaceous food. To a -certain extent the water in which any kind of vegetable has been boiled may -be regarded as stock, especially water that has boiled roots, such as -potatoes; or grains, such as rice. It will not, however, be necessary to -enter into any general description as to the best method of obtaining -nutriment in a liquid form from vegetables and grain, as directions will be -given in each recipe, but a few words are necessary on the general subject -of flavouring stock. In making ordinary soup we are very much dependent -for flavour, if the soup be good, on the meat, the vegetables acting only -as accessories. In making stock for vegetarian soups we are chiefly -dependent for flavour on the vegetables themselves, and consequently great -care must be taken that these flavourings are properly _blended_. The -great difficulty in giving directions in cookery-books, and in -understanding them when given, is the insuperable one of avoiding vague -expressions. For instance, suppose we read, "Take two onions, one carrot, -one turnip, and one head of celery,"--what does this mean? It will be -found practically that these directions vary considerably according to the -neighbourhood or part of the country in which we live. For instance, so -much depends upon where we take our head of celery from. Suppose we bought -our head of celery in Bond Street or the Central Arcade in Covent Garden -Market on the one hand, or off a barrow in the Mile End Road on the other. -Again, onions vary so much in size that we cannot draw any hard-and-fast -line between a little pickling onion no bigger than a marble and a Spanish -onion as big as a baby's head. It would be possible to be very precise and -say, "Take so many ounces of celery, or so many pounds of carrot, but -practically we cannot turn the kitchen into a chemist's shop. Cooks, -whether told to use celery in heads or ounces, would act on guess-work just -the same. What are absolutely essential are two things--common sense and -experience. - -Again, practically, we must avoid giving too many ingredients. Novices in -the art of cooking are, of course, unable to distinguish between those -vegetables that are absolutely essential and those added to give a slight -extra flavour, but which make very little difference to the soup whether -they are added or not. We are often directed to add a few leaves of -tarragon, or chervil, or a handful of sorrel. Of course, in a large -kitchen, presided over by a Francatelli, these are easily obtainable; but -in ordinary private houses, and in most parts of the country, they are not -only unobtainable but have never even been heard of at the greengrocer's -shop. - -In making soups, as a rule, the four vegetables essential are, onion, -celery, carrot and turnip; and we place them in their order of merit. In -making vegetarian soup it is very important that we should learn how to -blend these without making any one flavour too predominant. This can only -be learnt by experience. If we have too much onion the soup tastes rank; -too much celery will make it bitter; too much carrot often renders the soup -sweet; and the turnip overpowers every other flavour. Again, these -vegetables vary so much in strength that were we to peel and weigh them the -result would not be uniform, in addition to the fact that not one cook in a -thousand would take the trouble to do it. Perhaps the most dangerous -vegetable with which we have to deal is turnip. These vary so very much in -strength that sometimes even one slice of turnip will be found too strong. -In flavouring soups with these vegetables, the first care should be to see -that they are thoroughly cleansed. In using celery, too much of the green -part should be avoided if you wish to make first-rate soup. In using the -onions, if they are old and strong, the core can be removed. In using -carrot, if you are going to have any soup where vegetables will be cut up -and served in the soup, you should always peel off the outside red part of -the carrot and reserve it for this purpose, and only use the inside or -yellow part for flavouring purposes if is going to be thrown away or to -lose its identity by being rubbed through a wire sieve with other -vegetables. With regard to turnip, we can only add one word of -caution--not too much. We may here mention, before leaving the subject of -ingredients, that leeks and garlic are a substitute for onion, and can also -be used in conjunction with it. - -As a rule, in vegetarian cookery clear soups are rare, and, of course, from -an economical point of view, they are not to be compared with thick soups. -Some persons, in making stock, recommend what is termed bran tea. Half a -pint of bran is boiled in about three pints of water, and a certain amount -of nutriment can be extracted from the bran, which also imparts colour. - -For the purpose of colouring clear soups, however, there is nothing in the -world to compare with what French cooks call _caramel_. Caramel is really -burnt sugar. There is a considerable art in preparing it, as it is -necessary that it should impart colour, and colour _only_. When prepared -in the rough-and-ready manner of burning sugar in a spoon, as is too often -practised in English kitchens, this desideratum is never attained, as you -are bound to impart sweetness in addition to a burnt flavour. The simplest -and by far the most economical method of using caramel is to buy it -ready-made. It is sold by all grocers under the name of Parisian Essence. -A small bottle, costing about eightpence, will last a year, and saves an -infinite loss of time, trouble, and temper. - -By far the most economical soups are the thick, where all the ingredients -can be rubbed through a wire sieve. Thick soups can be divided into two -classes--ordinary brown soup, and white soup. The ordinary brown is the -most economical, as in white soups milk is essential, and if the soup is -wished to be very good it is necessary to add a little cream. - -Soups owe their thickness to two processes. We can thicken the soup by -adding flour of various kinds, such as ordinary flour, corn-flour, &c., and -soup can also be thickened by having some of the ingredients of which it is -composed rubbed through a sieve. This class of soups may be called Purees. -For instance, Palestine soup is really a puree of Jerusalem artichokes; -ordinary pea soup is a puree of split peas. In making our ordinary -vegetarian soups of all kinds, as a rule, all the ingredients should be -rubbed through a sieve. The economy of this is obvious on the face of it. -In the case of thickening soup by means of some kinds of flour, for -richness and flavour there is nothing to equal ordinary flour that has been -cooked. This is what Frenchmen call roux. - -As white and brown roux are the very backbone of vegetarian cookery a few -words of explanation may not be out of place. On referring to the recipe -for making white and brown roux, it will be seen that it is simply flour -cooked by means of frying it in butter, In white roux each grain of flour -is cooked till it is done. In brown roux each grain of flour is cooked -till it is done brown. We cannot exaggerate the importance of getting -cooks to see the enormous difference between thickening soups or gravy with -white or brown roux and simply thickening them with plain butter and flour. -The taste of the soup in the two cases is altogether different. The -difference is this. Suppose you have just been making some pastry--some -good, rich, puff paste--you have got two pies, and, as you probably know, -this pastry is simply butter and flour. Place one pie in the oven and bake -it till it is a nice rich brown. Now taste the pie-crust. It is probably -delicious. Now taste the piece of the pie that has not been baked at all. -It is nauseous. The difference is--one is butter and flour that has been -cooked, the other is butter and flour that has not been cooked. - - * * * * * - -One word of warning in conclusion. Cooks should always remember the good -old saying--that it is quite possible to have too much of a good thing. -They should be particularly warned to bear this in mind in adding herbs, -such as ordinary mixed flavouring herbs, or, as they are sometimes called, -savoury herbs, and thyme. This is also very important if wine is added to -soup, though, as a rule, vegetarians rarely use wine in cooking; but the -same principle applies to the substitute for wine--viz., lemon juice. It -is equally important to bear this in mind in using white and brown roux. -If we make the soup too thick we spoil it, and it is necessary to add water -to bring it to its proper consistency, which, of course, diminishes the -flavour. The proper consistency of any soup thickened with roux should be -that of ordinary cream. Beyond this point the cooked flour will overpower -almost every other flavour, and the great beauty of vegetarian cookery is -its simplicity, it appeals to a taste that is refined and natural, and not -to one that has been depraved. - - * * * * * - -STOCK.--Strictly speaking, in vegetarian cookery, stock is the goodness and -flavouring that can be extracted from vegetables, the chief ones being -onion, celery, carrot, and turnip. In order to make stock, take these -vegetables, cut them up into small pieces, after having thoroughly cleansed -them, place them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover them, and let -them boil gently for several hours. The liquor, when strained off, may be -called stock. It can be flavoured with a small quantity of savoury herbs, -pepper, and salt, as well as a little mushroom ketchup. It can be coloured -with a few drops of Parisian essence, or burnt sugar. Its consistency can -be improved by the addition of a small quantity of corn-flour. Sufficient -corn-flour must be added not to make it thick but like very thin gum. In a -broader sense, the water in which rice, lentils, beans and potatoes have -been boiled may be called stock. Again, the water in which macaroni, -vermicelli, sparghetti, and all kinds of Italian paste has been boiled, may -be called stock. The use of liquors of this kind must be left to the -common sense of the cook, as, of course, it would only be obtainable when -these materials are required for use. - - -BROWN AND WHITE THICKENING, OR ROUX.--It is of great importance for -vegetarians always to have on hand a fairly good stock of white and brown -roux, as it is a great saving both of time and money. As roux will keep -good for weeks, and even months, there is no fear of waste in making a -quantity at a time. Take a pound of flour, with a spoonful or two over; -see that it is thoroughly dry, and then sift it. Next take a pound of -butter and squeeze it in a cloth so as as much as possible to extract all -the moisture from it. Next take a stew-pan--an enamelled one is best--and -melt the butter till it runs to oil. It will now be found that, although -the bulk of the butter looks like oil, a certain amount of froth will rise -to the top. This must be carefully skimmed off. Continue to expose the -butter to a gentle heat till the scum ceases to rise. Now pour off the -oiled butter very gently into a basin till you come to some dregs. These -should be thrown away, or, at any rate, not used in making the roux. Now -mix the pound of dried and sifted flour with the oiled butter, which is -what the French cooks call clarified butter. Place it back in the -stew-pan, put the stew-pan over a tolerably good fire, but not too fierce, -as there is a danger of its burning. With a wooden spoon keep stirring -this mixture, and keep scraping the bottom of the stew-pan, first in one -place and then in another, being specially careful of the edges, to prevent -its burning. Gradually the mixture will begin to turn colour. As soon as -this turn of colour is perceptible take out half and put it in a basin. -This is the white roux, viz., flour cooked in butter but not discoloured -beyond a very trifling amount. Keep the stew-pan on the fire, and go on -stirring the remainder, which will get gradually darker and darker in -colour. As soon as the colour is that of light chocolate remove the -stew-pan from the fire altogether, but still continue scraping and stirring -for a few minutes longer, as the enamel retains the heat to such an extent -that it will sometimes burn after it has been removed from the fire. It is -important not to have the mixture too dark, and it will be found by -experience that it gets darker after the stew-pan has been removed from the -fire. When we say light chocolate we refer to the colour of a cake of -chocolate that has been broken. The inside is the colour, not the outside. -It is advisable sometimes to have by you ready a large slice of onion, and -if you think it is dark enough you can throw this in and immediately by -this means slacken the heat. Pour the brown roux into a separate basin, -and put them by for use. - -In the houses of most vegetarians more white roux will be used than brown, -consequently more than half should be removed if this is the case when the -roux first commences to turn colour. When the brown roux gets cold it has -all the appearance of chocolate, and when you use it it is best to scrape -off the quantity you require with a spoon, and not add it to soups or -sauces in one lump. - - -ALMOND SOUP.--Take half a pound of sweet almonds and blanch them, _i.e._, -throw them into boiling water till the outside skin can be rubbed off -easily with the finger. Then immediately throw the white almonds into cold -water, otherwise they will quickly lose their white colour like potatoes -that have been peeled. Next, slice up an onion and half a small head of -celery, and let these simmer gently in a quart of milk. In the meantime -pound the almonds with four hard-boiled yolks of egg, strain off the milk -and add the pounded almonds and egg to the milk gradually, and let it boil -over the fire. Add sufficient white roux till the soup becomes of the -consistency of cream. Serve some fried or toasted bread with the soup. It -is a great improvement to add half a pint of cream, but this makes the soup -much more expensive. The soup can be flavoured with a little white pepper. - -N.B.--The onion and celery that was strained off can be used again for -flavouring purposes. - - -APPLE SOUP.--This is a German recipe. Take half a dozen good-sized apples, -peel them and remove the core, and boil them in a quart of water with two -tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs; add the juice of a lemon, and flavour it -with rather less than a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon; sweeten -the soup with lump sugar, previously having rubbed six lumps on the outside -of the lemon. - - -ARTICHOKE SOUP.--Take a dozen large Jerusalem artichokes about as big as -the fist, or more to make up a similar quantity. Peel them, and, like -potatoes, throw them into cold water in order to prevent them turning -colour. Boil them in as little water as possible, as they contain a good -deal of water themselves, till they are tender and become a pulp, taking -care that they do not burn, and therefore it is best to rub the saucepan at -the bottom with a piece of butter. Now rub them through a wire sieve and -add them to a pint of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves have been -boiled. Add also two lumps of sugar and a little white pepper and salt. -Serve the soup with fried or toasted bread. This soup can be made much -richer by the addition of either a quarter of a pint of cream or a couple -of yolks of eggs. If yolks of eggs are added, beat up the yolks separately -and add the soup gradually, very hot, but not quite boiling, otherwise the -yolks will curdle. - - -ASPARAGUS SOUP.--Take a good-sized bundle (about fifty large heads) of -asparagus, and after a thorough cleansing throw them into a saucepan of -boiling water that has been salted. When the tops become tender, drain off -the asparagus and throw it into cold water, as by this means we retain the -bright green colour; when cold cut off all the best part of the green into -little pieces, about half an inch long, then put the remainder of the -asparagus--the stalk part--into a saucepan, with a few green onions and a -few sprigs of parsley, with about a quart of stock or water; add a -teaspoonful of pounded sugar and a very little grated nutmeg. Let this -boil till the stalks become quite tender, then rub the whole through a wire -sieve and thicken the soup with a little white roux, and colour it a bright -green with some spinach extract. Now add the little pieces cut up, and let -the whole simmer gently, and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - -N.B.--SPINACH EXTRACT.--It is very important in making all green vegetable -soups that they should be of a green colour, such as the one above -mentioned--green-pea soup, &c., and that we get a _good_ colour, and this -is only to be obtained by means of spinach extract. Spinach extract can be -made at home, but it will be found to be far more economical to have a -small bottle of green vegetable colouring always in the house. These -bottles can be obtained from all grocers at the cost of about tenpence or -one shilling each. Such a very small quantity goes such a long way that -one bottle would probably last a family of six persons twelve months. As -we have said, it can be made at home, but the process, though not -difficult, is troublesome. It is made as follows:--A quantity of spinach -has, after being thoroughly washed, to be pounded in a mortar until it -becomes a pulp. This pulp is then placed in a very strong, coarse cloth, -and the cloth is twisted till the juice of the spinach is squeezed out -through the cloth. The amount of force required is very considerable and -is almost beyond the power of ordinary women cooks. This juice must now be -placed in a small enamelled saucepan, and must be heated till it becomes -thick and pulpy, when it can be put by for use. It will probably be found -cheaper to buy spinach extract than to make it, as manual labour cannot -compete with machinery. - - -BARLEY SOUP.--Take two tablespoonfuls of pearl barley and wash it in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Put this in a -saucepan with about two quarts of water, two onions sliced up, a few -potatoes sliced very thin, and about a saltspoonful of thyme. Let the -whole boil gently for four or five hours, till the barley is quite soft and -eatable. Thicken the soup very slightly with a little white roux, season -it with pepper and salt. Before serving the soup, add a tablespoonful of -chopped blanched parsley. - -N.B.--When chopped parsley is added to any soup or sauce, such as parsley -and butter, it is very important that the parsley be blanched. To blanch -parsley means to throw it for a few seconds into boiling water. By this -means a dull green becomes a bright green. The best method to blanch -parsley is to place it in a strainer and dip the strainer for a few seconds -in a saucepan of boiling water. By comparing the colour of the parsley -that has been so treated with some that has not been blanched, cooks will -at once see the importance of the operation so far as appearances are -concerned. - - -BEETROOT SOUP.--This soup is better adapted to the German palate than the -English, as it contains both vinegar and sugar, which are very -characteristic of German cookery. Take two large beetroots and two -good-sized onions, and after peeling the beetroots boil them and mince them -finely, adding them, of course, to the water in which they were boiled, or -still better, they can be boiled in some sort of stock. Add a very small -quantity of corn-flour, to give a slight consistency to the soup, as well -as a little pinch of thyme. Next add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar--more -or less according to taste--a spoonful of brown sugar, and a little pepper -and salt. - - -BEAN SOUP, OR PUREE OF RED HARICOT BEANS.--Put a quart of red haricot beans -into soak overnight, and put a little piece of soda in the water to soften -it. The next morning put the beans on to boil in three quarts of water, -with some carrot, celery and onion, or the beans can be boiled in some -stock made from these vegetables. After the beans are tender, pound them -in a mortar, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve, after first -removing the carrot, celery and onion. Add a teaspoonful of pounded sugar -and about two ounces of butter. Fried or toasted bread should be served -with the soup. If the soup is liked thin, of course more water can be -added. - - -BEAN SOUP, OR PUREE OF WHITE HARICOT BEANS.--Proceed exactly as in the -above recipe, only substituting white haricot beans for red. It is a great -improvement to add a little boiling cream, but of course this makes the -soup much more expensive. Some cooks add a spoonful of blanched, chopped -parsley to this puree, and Frenchmen generally flavour this soup with -garlic. - - -BEAN SOUP, GREEN.--Boil a quart of ordinary broad-beans in some stock or -water with an onion, carrot and celery. Remove the skins when the beans -are tender and rub the beans through a wire sieve. Colour the soup with a -little spinach extract--(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles)--add a -little piece of butter, a little powdered sugar, pepper and salt. The -amount of stock or water must depend upon whether it is wished to have the -puree thick or thin. Some purees are made as thick as bread sauce, while -some persons prefer them much thinner. This is purely a matter of taste. - - -BEAN SOUP FROM FRENCH BEANS.--This is an admirable method of using up -French beans or scarlet runners when they get too old to be boiled as a -vegetable in the ordinary way. Take any quantity of French beans and boil -them in some stock or water with an onion, carrot, or celery for about an -hour, taking care, at starting, to throw them into boiling water in order -to preserve their colour. It is also a saving of trouble to chop the beans -slightly at starting, _i.e._, take a bunch of beans in the left hand and -cut them into pieces, say an eighth of an inch in thickness. Boil them -till they are tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Add a -little butter, pepper and salt, and colour the soup with spinach -extract--(vegetable colouring, sold in bottles). Serve toasted or fried -bread with the puree, which should be rather thick. - - -CABBAGE SOUP.--Take a white cabbage and slice it up, and throw it into some -stock or water, with some leeks and slices of turnip. Boil the whole till -the vegetables are tender, flavour with pepper and salt. This is sometimes -called Cornish broth, though in Cornwall a piece of meat or bones are -generally boiled with the vegetables. As no meat, of course, is used, too -much water must not be added, but only sufficient liquor must be served to -make the vegetables thoroughly moist. Perhaps the consistency can best be -described by saying that there should be equal quantities of vegetables and -fluid. - - -CARROT SOUP.--If you wish this soup to be of a good colour, you must only -use the outside, or red part, of the carrot, in which case a dozen large -carrots will be required. If economy is practised, half this quantity will -be sufficient. Take, say, half a dozen carrots, a small head of celery, -and one onion, and throw them into boiling water for a few minutes in order -to preserve the colour. Then drain them off and place them in a saucepan, -with a couple of ounces of butter to prevent them sticking and burning, and -place the saucepan on a very slack fire and let them stew so that the steam -can escape, but take care they don't burn or get brown. Now add a quart or -two quarts of stock or water and boil them till they are tender. Then rub -the whole through a wire sieve, add a little butter, pounded sugar, pepper, -and salt. The amount of liquid added must entirely depend upon the size of -the carrots. It is better to add too little than too much, but the -consistency of the soup should be like ordinary pea soup; it does not do to -have the soup watery. If only the outside parts of carrots are used, and -this red part is thrown, at starting, into boiling water to preserve its -colour, this soup, when made thick, has a very bright and handsome -appearance, and is suitable for occasions when a little extra hospitality -is exercised. The inside part of the carrot, if not used for making the -soup, need not be wasted, but can be used for making stock, or served in a -dish of mixed vegetables on some other occasion. - - -CAULIFLOWER SOUP.--Take three or four small cauliflowers, or two large -ones, soak them in salt and water, and boil them in some water till they -are nearly tender. Take them out and break the cauliflower so that you get -two or three dozen little pieces out of the heart of the cauliflower, -somewhat resembling miniature bouquets. Put the rest of the cauliflower -back into the water in which it was boiled, with the exception of the green -part of the leaves, with an onion and some of the white part of a head of -celery. Let all boil till the water has nearly boiled away. Now rub all -this through a wire sieve, onions, celery, cauliflower, and all; add to it -sufficient boiling milk to make the whole of the consistency of pea soup. -Add a little butter, pepper, and salt; throw in those little pieces of -cauliflower that had been reserved a minute or two before serving the soup. -It is an improvement to boil two or three bay-leaves with the milk, and -also a very great improvement indeed to add a little boiling cream. Fried -or toasted bread should be served with the soup. - - -CELERY SOUP.--Take half a dozen heads of celery, or a smaller quantity if -the heads of celery are very large; throw away all the green part and cut -up the celery into small pieces, with one onion sliced, and place them in a -frying-pan, or, better still, in an enamelled stew-pan, and stew them in a -little butter, taking great care that the celery does not turn colour. Now -add sufficient water or stock, and let it all boil till the celery becomes -quite tender. Let it boil till it becomes a pulp, and then rub the whole -through a wire sieve. Next boil separately from one to two quarts of milk -according to the quantity of celery pulp, and boil a couple of bay-leaves -in the milk. As soon as the milk boils add it to the celery pulp, flavour -the soup with pepper and salt; serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. -It is needless to say that all these white soups are greatly improved both -in appearance and flavour by the addition of a little cream. - - -CHEESE SOUP.--Light-coloured and dry cheese is necessary for this somewhat -peculiar soup, but the best cheese of all is, undoubtedly, Gruyere. Grate -half a pound of cheese and spread a layer of this at the bottom of the -soup-tureen. Cover this layer of cheese with some very thin slices of -stale crumb of bread. Then put another layer of cheese and another layer -of bread till all the cheese is used up. Next take about two -tablespoonfuls of brown roux, melt this in a small saucepan, and add two -tablespoonfuls of chopped onion. Let the onion cook in the melted roux -over the fire, and then add a quart of water, and stir it all up till it -boils, adding pepper and salt and a few drops of Parisian essence (burnt -sugar) to give it a dark brown colour. Now pour the boiling soup over the -contents of the soup-tureen, and let it stand a few minutes so that the -bread has time to soak, and serve. - - -CHERRY SOUP.--Like most soups that are either sweet or sour, this is a -German recipe. Put a piece of butter, the size of a large egg, into a -saucepan. Let it melt, then mix it with a tablespoonful of flour, and stir -smoothly until it is lightly browned. Add gradually two pints of water, a -pound of black cherries, picked and washed, and a few cloves. Let these -boil until the fruit is quite tender, then press the whole through a sieve. -After straining, add a little port, if wine is allowed--but the soup will -be very nice without this addition--half a teaspoonful of the kernels, -blanched and bruised, a tablespoonful of sugar, and a few whole cherries. -Let the soup boil again until the cherries are tender, and pour all into a -tureen over toasted sippets, sponge-cakes, or macaroons. - - -CHESTNUT SOUP, OR PUREE OF CHESTNUTS.--Take four dozen chestnuts and peel -them. This will be a very long process if we attempt to take off the skins -while they are raw; but in order to save time and trouble, place the -chestnuts in a stew-pan with a couple of ounces of butter. Place them on a -slack fire and occasionally give them a stir. Heat them gradually till the -husks come off without any difficulty. Having removed all the husks, add -sufficient stock or water to the chestnuts, and let them boil gently till -they are tender. Then pound them in a mortar and rub them through a wire -sieve. Add a very little brown roux, if the soup is to be brown, and a few -drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar), or a little white roux and a -little cream if the soup is to be white. Add also a little pepper and -salt, sufficient butter to make the puree taste soft, and a little powdered -sugar. Fried and toasted bread should be served with the soup. - - -COTTAGE SOUP.--Fry two onions, a carrot and a turnip, and a small head of -celery cut up into small pieces, in a frying-pan, with a little butter, -till they are lightly browned. Then put them in a saucepan, with about two -quarts of water and a tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. Let this boil -till the vegetables are quite tender, and then thicken the soup with two -ounces of oatmeal or prepared barley. This must be mixed with cold water -and made quite smooth before it is added to the soup. Wash a quarter of a -pound of rice, and boil this in the soup, and when the rice is quite tender -the soup can be served. Some persons add a little sugar, and dried -powdered mint can be handed round with the soup, like pea soup. - - -CLEAR SOUP.--Make a very strong stock by cutting up onion, celery, carrot, -and a little turnip, and boiling them in some water. They should boil for -two or three hours. Add also a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs to every -quart, and colour the stock with a few drops of Parisian essence. Strain -it off, and, if it is not bright, clear it with some white of egg in the -ordinary way. Take only sufficient corn-flour to make the soup less thin -or watery, but do not make it thick. A tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup -can be added to every quart. - - -COCOANUT SOUP.--Break open a good-sized cocoanut and grate sufficient of -the white part till it weighs half a pound. Boil this in some stock, and -after it has boiled for about an hour strain it off. Only a small quantity -of stock must be used, and the cocoanut should be pressed and squeezed, so -as to extract all the goodness. Add a little pepper and salt, and about -half a grated nutmeg. Next boil separately three pints of milk, and add -this to the strained soup. Thicken the soup with some ground rice, and -serve. Of course, a little cream would be a great improvement. Serve with -toasted or fried bread. - - -ENDIVE SOUP, OR PUREE.--Take half a dozen endives that are white in the -centre, and wash them very thoroughly in salt and water, as they are apt to -contain insects. Next throw. them into boiling water, and let them boil -for a quarter of an hour. Then take them out and throw them into cold -water. Next take them out of the cold water and squeeze them in a cloth so -as to extract all the moisture. Then cut off the root of each endive, chop -up all the white leaves, and place them in a stew-pan with about two ounces -of butter. Add half a grated nutmeg, a brimming teaspoonful of powdered -white sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Stir them over the fire with a -wooden spoon, and take care they don't burn or turn colour. Next add -sufficient milk to moisten them, and let them simmer gently till they are -tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve, add a little piece of -butter, and serve with fried or toasted bread. - - -FRUIT SOUP.--Fruit soup can be made from rhubarb, vegetable marrow, -cucumber, gourd, or pumpkin. They may be all mixed with a little cream, -milk, or butter, and form a nice dish that is both healthful and delicate. - - -GREEN PEA SOUP.--(_See_ PEA.) - - -GREEN PEA SOUP, DRIED.--(_See_ PEA.) - - -HARE SOUP (IMITATION).--Take one large carrot, a small head of celery, one -good-sized onion, and half a small turnip, and boil these in a quart of -water till they are tender. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, and -thicken the soup with some brown roux till it is as thick as good cream. -Next add a brimming saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. These herbs -are sold in bottles by all grocers under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. -Flavour the soup with cayenne pepper, a glass of port wine (port wine dregs -will do), dissolve in it a small dessertspoonful of red-currant jelly, and -add the juice of half a lemon. - -N.B.--Aromatic flavouring herbs are exceedingly useful in cooking. It is -cheaper to buy them ready made, under the name of Herbaceous Mixture. They -can, however, be made at home as follows:--Take two ounces of white -peppercorns, two ounces of cloves, one ounce of marjoram, one ounce of -sweet basil and one ounce of lemon-thyme, one ounce of powdered nutmeg, one -ounce of powdered mace, and half an ounce of dried bay-leaves. The herbs -must be wrapped up in paper (one or two little paper bags, one inside the -other, is best), and dried very slowly in the oven till they are brittle. -They must then be pounded in a mortar, and mixed with the spices, and the -whole sifted through a fine hair-sieve and put by in a stoppered bottle for -use. - - -HOTCH-POTCH.--Cut up some celery, onion, carrot, turnip, and leeks into -small pieces and fry them for a few minutes in about two ounces of butter -in a frying-pan, very gently, taking care that they do not in the least -degree turn colour. Previous to this, wash and boil about a quarter of a -pound of pearl barley for four or five hours. When the barley is tender, -or nearly tender, add the contents of the frying-pan. Let it all boil till -the vegetables are tender, and about half an hour before the soup is sent -to table throw in, while the soup is boiling, half a pint of fresh green -peas--those known as marrowfats are best,--and about five minutes before -sending the soup to table throw in a spoonful (in the proportion of a -dessertspoonful to every quart) of chopped, blanched parsley--_i.e._, -parsley that has been thrown into boiling water before it is chopped. -Colour the soup green with a little spinach extract (vegetable colouring -sold in bottles by all grocers). The thinness of the soup can be removed -by the addition of a small quantity of white roux. - - -JARDINIERE SOUP.--Cut up into thin strips some carrot, turnip and celery, -add a dozen or more small button onions, similar to those used for -pickling, and also a few hearts of lettuces cut up fine, as well as a few -fresh tarragon leaves cut into strips as thin as small string. Simmer -these gently in some clear soup (_see_ CLEAR SOUP) till tender; add a lump -of sugar, and serve. - -N.B.--The tarragon should not be thrown in till the last minute. - - -JULIENNE SOUP.--This soup is exactly similar to the previous one, the only -exception being that all the vegetables are first stewed very gently, till -they are tender, in a little butter. Care should be taken that the -vegetables do not turn colour. - - -LEEK SOUP.--Take half a dozen or more fine large leeks, and after trimming -off the green part, throw them into boiling water for five minutes, then -drain them off and dry them. Cut them into pieces about half an inch long, -and stew them gently in a little butter till they are tender. Add three -pints of milk, and let two bay-leaves boil in the milk, flavour with pepper -and salt, and add a suspicion of grated nutmeg. Thicken the soup with a -little white roux and take the crust of a French roll. Cut this up into -small pieces or rings. The rings can be made by simply scooping out the -crumb, and cutting the roll across. When the leeks have boiled in the milk -till they are quite tender, pour the soup over the crusts placed at the -bottom of the soup-tureen. Some cooks add blanched parsley. Of course, -cream would be a great improvement. - - -LENTIL SOUP.--Take a breakfastcupful of green lentils and put them to soak -in cold water overnight. In the morning throw away any floating on the -top. Drain the lentils and put them in a stew-pan or saucepan with some -stock or water, and add two onions, two carrots, a turnip, a bunch of -parsley, a small teaspoonful of savoury herbs and a small head of celery. -If you have no celery add half a teaspoonful of bruised celery seed. You -can also add a crust of stale bread. Let the whole boil, and it will be -found that occasionally a dark film will rise to the surface. This must be -skimmed off. The soup must boil for about four hours, or at any rate till -the lentils are thoroughly soft. Then strain the soup through a wire -sieve, and rub the whole of the contents through the wire sieve with the -soup. This requires both time and patience. After the whole has been -rubbed through the sieve the soup must be boiled up, and if made from green -lentils it can be coloured green with some spinach extract--(vegetable -colouring, sold in bottles). If made from Egyptian (red) lentils, the soup -can be coloured with a few drops of Parisian essence (burnt sugar). In -warming up this soup, after the lentils have been rubbed through a sieve, -it should be borne in mind that the lentil powder has a tendency to settle, -and consequently the saucepan must be constantly stirred to prevent it -burning. In serving the soup at table, the contents of the soup-tureen -should be stirred with the soup-ladle before each help. - - -LENTIL PUREE A LA SOUBISE.--This is really lentil soup, made as above, -rather thick, to which has been added a puree of onions, made as -follows:--Slice up, say four large onions, and fry them brown in a little -butter, then boil them in some of the broth of the soup till they are -tender. Rub them through a wire sieve and add them to the soup. - - -MACARONI SOUP (CLEAR).--Take some macaroni and break it up into pieces -about two inches long. Boil them till they are tender in some salted -water, drain them off and add them to some clear soup. (_See_ CLEAR SOUP.) - - -MACARONI SOUP (THICK).--Take an onion, carrot, a small head of celery and a -very small quantity of turnip; cut them up and boil them in a very small -quantity of water for about an hour. Then rub the whole through a wire -sieve, add a quart or more of boiling milk, throw in the macaroni, after -breaking it up into pieces two inches long, and let the macaroni simmer in -this till it is perfectly tender. The soup should be thickened with a very -little white roux, a bay-leaf can be boiled in the soup; a small quantity -of cream is a great improvement. Fried or toasted bread should be served -with it. - - -MILK SOUP.--Milk soup, as it is sometimes called in Germany, very much -resembles English custard. It is made by putting a quart of milk on the -fire and thickening it with two yolks of eggs and a little flour, and -sweetening it with sugar. The soup is flavoured with either vanilla, -lemon, laurel leaves, pounded almonds, cinnamon, chocolate, &c. As a soup, -however, it is not suited to the English palate. - - -MOCK TURTLE, IMITATION.--Take an onion, carrot, small head of celery, and -some turnip, and boil them till they are tender in some stock. The water -in which some rice has been boiled is very well suited for the purpose. -Add also to every quart a brimming tablespoonful of mixed savoury herbs. -Rub the whole through a wire sieve, thicken it with brown roux till it is -as thick as cream; add a few drops of Parisian essence--(sold in bottles by -all grocers)--to give it a dark colour. Add a wineglassful of sherry or -Madeira, or, if the use of wine be objected to, the juice of a hard lemon. -Flavour the soup with a little cayenne pepper, and serve some egg forcemeat -balls in it, about the size of small marbles. - - -MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.--Take four large onions, cut them up and fry them brown, -with a little butter, in a frying-pan, with a carrot cut up into small -pieces; add to this a quart of stock or water, and boil till the vegetables -and onions are tender; then rub the whole through a wire sieve and add a -brimming teaspoonful of Captain White's Curry Paste and a dessertspoonful -of curry powder, previously mixed smooth in a little cold water; thicken -the soup with a little brown roux. Some persons would consider this soup -too hot; if so, less curry powder can be used or more water added. If you -have no curry paste, cut up a sour apple and add it to the vegetables in -the frying-pan. If you have no sour apples, a few green gooseberries are a -very good substitute. Boiled rice should be served on a separate dish with -this soup, and should not be boiled in the soup at starting. - - -ONION SOUP.--Cut up half a dozen onions and throw them for a few minutes -into boiling water. This takes off the rankness. Drain off the onions, -and chop them up and boil them till they are tender in some milk that has -been seasoned with pepper and salt and a pinch of savoury herbs. Take a -small quantity of celery, carrot and turnip, or carrot and turnip and a -little bruised celery seed, and boil till they are tender in a very little -water; rub through a wire sieve, and add the pulp to the soup. The soup -can be thickened with white roux, ground rice, or one or two eggs beaten -up. The soup must be added to the eggs gradually or they will curdle. - - -ONION SOUP, BROWN.--Take an onion, carrot, celery, and turnip, and let them -boil till quite tender in some water or stock. In the meantime slice up -half a dozen large onions and fry them brown in a little butter, in a -frying-pan, taking care that the onions are browned and not burnt black; -add the contents of the frying-pan to the vegetables and stock, and after -it has boiled some time, till the onions are tender, rub the whole through -a wire sieve, thicken with a little brown roux, adding, of course, pepper -and salt to taste. - - -OX-TAIL SOUP, IMITATION.--Slice off the outside red part of two or three -large carrots, and cut them up into small dice not bigger than a quarter of -an inch square. Cut up also into similar size a young turnip, and the -white, hard part of a head of celery. Fry these very gently in a little -butter, taking care that the vegetables do not turn colour. Make some soup -exactly in every respect similar to that described in Imitation Mock -Turtle. Throw in these fried vegetables, and let the soup simmer gently by -the side of the fire, in order for it to throw up its butter, which should -be skimmed off. In flavouring the soup, add only half the quantity of wine -or lemon juice that you would use were you making Mock Turtle. - - -PALESTINE SOUP.--(_See_ ARTICHOKE SOUP.) - - -PARSNIP SOUP.--Prepare half a dozen parsnips, and boil them with an onion -and half a head of celery in some stock till they are quite tender. Then -rub the whole through a wire sieve, boil it up again, and serve. -Sufficient parsnips must be boiled to make the soup as thick as pea soup, -so the quantity of stock must be regulated accordingly. This soup is -generally rather sweet, owing to the parsnips, and an extra quantity of -salt must be added in consequence, as well as pepper. In Belgium and -Germany this sweetness is corrected by the addition of vinegar. This, of -course, is a matter of taste. - - -PEAR SOUP.--Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. Put them into -a stew-pan with a penny roll cut into thin slices, half a dozen cloves, and -three pints of water. Let them simmer until they are quite tender, then -pass them through a coarse sieve, and return the puree to the saucepan, -with two ounces of sugar, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, and half a -tumblerful of light wine. Let the soup boil five or ten minutes, when it -will be ready for serving. Send some sponge-cake to table with this dish. - - -PEA SOUP, FROM SPLIT DRIED PEAS.--Take a pint of split peas and put them in -soak overnight in some cold water, and throw away those that float, as this -shows that there is a hole in them which would be mildewy. Take two -onions, a carrot, a small head of celery, and boil them with the peas in -from three pints to two quarts of water till they are tender. This will be -from four to five hours. When the peas are old and stale even longer time -should be allowed. Then rub the whole through a wire sieve, put the soup -back into the saucepan, and stir it while you make it hot or it will burn. -In ordinary cookery, pea soup is invariably made from some kind of greasy -stock, more especially the water in which pickled pork has been boiled. In -the present instance we have no kind of fat to counteract the natural -dryness of the pea-flour. We must therefore add, before sending to table, -two or three ounces of butter. It will be found best to dissolve the -butter in the saucepan before adding the soup to be warmed up, as it is -then much less likely to stick to the bottom of the saucepan and burn. -Fried or toasted bread should be served with the soup separately, as well -as dried and powdered mint. The general mistake people make is, they do -not have sufficient mint. - - -PEA SOUP, FROM DRIED GREEN PEAS.--Proceed as in the above recipe in every -respect, substituting dried green peas for ordinary yellow split peas. -Colour the soup green by adding a large handful of spinach before it is -rubbed through the wire sieve, or add a small quantity of spinach extract -(vegetable colouring sold by grocers in bottles); dried mint and fried or -toasted bread should be served with the soup, as with the other. - - -PEA SOUP, GREEN (FRESH).--Take half a peck of young peas, shell them, and -throw the peas into cold water. Put all the shells into a quart or more of -stock or water. Put in also a handful of spinach if possible, a few sprigs -of parsley, a dozen fresh mint-leaves and half a dozen small, fresh, green -onions. Boil these for an hour, or rather more, and then rub the whole -through a wire sieve. You cannot rub all the shells through; but you will -be able to rub a great part through, that which is left in the sieve being -only strings. Now put on the soup to boil again, and as soon as it boils -throw in the peas; as soon as these are tender--about twenty minutes--the -soup is finished and can be sent to table. If the soup is thin, a little -white roux can be added to thicken it; if of a bad colour, or if you could -not get any spinach, add some spinach extract (vegetable colouring, sold by -all grocers), only take care not to add too much, and make the soup look -like green paint. - -POTATO SOUP.--Potato soup is a very good method of using up the remains of -cold boiled potatoes. Slice up a large onion and fry it, without letting -it turn colour, with a little butter. Add a little water or stock to the -frying-pan, and let the onion boil till it is tender. Boil a quart or more -of milk separately with a couple of bay-leaves; rub the onion with the cold -potatoes through a wire sieve and add it to the milk. You can moisten the -potatoes in the sieve with the milk. When you have rubbed enough to make -the soup thick enough, let it boil up and add to every quart a saltspoonful -of thyme and a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley. This soup -should be rather thicker than most thick soups. - -When new potatoes first come into season, and especially when you have new -potatoes from your own garden, it will often be found that mixed with the -ordinary ones there are many potatoes no bigger than a toy marble, and -which are too small to be boiled and sent to table as an ordinary dish of -new potatoes. Reserve all these little dwarf potatoes, wash them, and -throw them for five or ten minutes into boiling water, drain them off and -throw them into the potato soup whole. Of course they must boil in the -soup till they are tender. A little cream is a great improvement to the -soup, and dried mint can be served with it, but is not absolutely -necessary. - - -PUMPKIN SOUP.--Take half or a quarter of a moderate-sized pumpkin, pare it, -remove the seeds, and cut the pumpkin into thin slices. Put these into a -stew-pan, with as much water or milk as will cover them, and boil gently -until they are reduced to a pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with -it a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of an egg, and stir it -over the fire until it boils. Thin it with some boiling milk which has -been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind, cinnamon, or orange-flower -water. It should be of the consistency of thick cream. Put toasted bread, -cut into the size of dice, at the bottom of the soup-tureen. Moisten the -bread-dice with a small quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little -while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, and serve very hot. Or -whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen, and pour the soup in over -them at the last moment. The liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for -a minute or two before it is poured over the eggs. - - -RHUBARB SOUP.--This is a sweet soup, and is simply juice from stewed -rhubarb sweetened and flavoured with lemon-peel and added either to cream -or beaten-up yolks of eggs and a little white wine. It is rarely met with -in this country. - - -RICE SOUP.--Take a quarter of a pound of rice, and wash it in several -waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Take an onion, the white -part of a head of celery, and a turnip, and cut them up and fry them in a -little butter. Add a quart of stock, or water, and boil these vegetables -until they are tender, and then rub them through a wire sieve. Boil the -rice in this soup till it is tender, flavour with pepper and salt, add a -little milk boiled separately, and serve grated Parmesan cheese with the -soup. - - -RICE SOUP A LA ROYALE.--Take half a pound of rice and wash it thoroughly in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Boil this rice in -some stock that has been strongly flavoured with onion, carrot and celery, -and strained off. When the rice is tender rub it through a wire sieve, -then add some boiling milk, in which two or three bay-leaves have been -boiled, and half a pint of cream, till the soup is a proper consistency. -Serve some egg force-meat balls with the soup. - - -SORREL SOUP.--Take some sorrel and wash it very thoroughly. Like spinach, -it requires a great deal of cleansing. Drain it off and place the sorrel -in a stew-pan, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon. When it has -dissolved and boiled for two or three minutes, let it drain on a sieve till -the water has run off. Next cut up a large onion and fry it in a little -butter, but do not brown the onion. Add a tablespoonful of flour to every -two ounces of butter used, also a teaspoonful of sugar, a little grated -nutmeg, also a little pepper and salt; add the sorrel to this, with a small -quantity of stock or water, then rub the whole through a wire sieve, and -serve. In some parts of the Continent vinegar is added, but it is not -adapted to English taste. - - -SAGO SOUP.--Take two ounces of sage, and having washed it very thoroughly, -put it on to boil in a quart of stock strongly flavoured with onion, -celery, and carrot, but which has been strained off. The sage must boil -until it becomes quite transparent and tender. Flavour the soup with a -little pepper and salt, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, about half a -teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of lemon juice from a hard -lemon. - - -SEA-KALE SOUP.--This makes a very delicious soup, but it is somewhat rare. -Take a bundle of sea-kale, the whiter the better. Threw it into boiling -water, and let it boil for a few minutes, then take it out and drain it; -cut it up into small pieces and place it in a stew-pan with about two -ounces of butter, add a little pepper and salt and grated nutmeg; stir it -up until the butter is thoroughly melted, but do not let it turn colour in -the slightest degree. Add some milk, and let it simmer very gently for -about half an hour. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, and add a small -quantity of cream. Serve with toasted or fried bread. - - -SCOTCH BROTH.--Take two or three ounces of pearl barley, wash it, and threw -it into boiling water, and let it boil for five or ten minutes. Then drain -it off and threw away the water. This is the only way to get pearl barley -perfectly clean. Then put on the barley in some stock or water, and let it -boil for four hours, till it is tender. Then add to it every kind of -vegetable that is in season, such as onion, celery, carrot, turnip, peas, -French beans, cut up into small pieces, hearts of lettuces cut up. Flavour -with pepper and salt and serve altogether. If possible add leeks to this -soup instead of onion, and just before serving the soup throw in a brimming -dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley to every quart of soup. A -pinch of thyme can also be added. - - -SPINACH SOUP.--Wash some young, freshly gathered spinach, cut it up with a -lettuce, and, if possible, a few leaves of sorrel, and throw them into -boiling water. Let them boil for five minutes, drain them off, and throw -them into cold water in order to keep their colour. Next take them out of -the water and squeeze all the moisture from them; then melt two ounces of -butter in a stew-pan, and add two tablespoonfuls of flour. When this is -thoroughly mixed together, and begins to frizzle, add the spinach, lettuce, -&c., and stir them round and round in the stew-pan till all is well mixed -together. Then add sufficient water or vegetable stock to moisten the -vegetables (add also a pinch of thyme), and let it boil. When it has -boiled for about twenty minutes add a quart of milk that has been boiled -separately, flavour with pepper and salt, and serve. - - -TAPIOCA SOUP.--Clear tapioca soup is made by thickening some ordinary clear -soup (_see_ CLEAR SOUP) with tapioca, allowing about two ounces of tapioca -to every quart. The tapioca should be put into the soup when it is cold, -and it is then far less likely to get lumpy. Tapioca can also be boiled in -a little strongly flavoured stock that has not been coloured, and then add -some boiling milk. Tapioca should be allowed to simmer for an hour and a -half. Of course, a little cream is a great improvement when the soup is -made with milk. - - -TOMATO SOUP.--This is a very delicate soup, and the endeavour should be to -try and retain the flavour of the tomato. Slice up an onion, or better -still two shallots, and fry them in a little butter, to which can be added -a broken-up, dried bay-leaf, a saltspoonful of thyme, and a very small -quantity of grated nutmeg, Fry these in a little batter till the onion -begins to turn colour, and then add a dozen ripe tomatoes from which the -pips have been squeezed. Moisten with a very little stock or water, and -let them stew till they are tender, then rub the whole through a wire -sieve. The consistency should be that of pea soup. Add a little butter to -soften the soup), and flavour with pepper and salt. - - -TURNIP SOUP.--Cut up some young turnips into small pieces, throw them into -boiling water, let them boil for a few minutes, take them out and strain -them, and put them into a stew-pan with about two ounces of fresh butter; -add a little salt and sugar. Let them stew in the butter (taking great -care that they don't turn colour) till they become soft, then add -sufficient boiling milk to moisten them, so that when rubbed through a wire -sieve the soup will be of the consistency of pea soup. Serve fried or -toasted bread with the soup. - - -VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP.--Take a large vegetable marrow, peel it, cut it -open, remove all the pips, and place it in a stew-pan with about two ounces -of fresh butter. Add a brimming teaspoonful of powdered sugar, a little -grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt. Keep turning the pieces of vegetable -marrow over in the butter, taking care that they do not at all turn colour. -After frying these pieces gently for five or ten minutes, add some boiling -milk, and let the whole simmer gently till it can be rubbed through a wire -sieve. Care must be taken not to get this soup too thin, as the vegetable -marrow itself contains a large quantity of water. Season with pepper and -salt, and serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - -VEGETABLE SOUP.--(_See_ JARDINIERE SOUP.) - - -VERMICELLI SOUP.--Take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli and break it up -into small pieces, throw it into boiling water, and let it boil for five -minutes to get rid of the dirt and floury taste, then throw it immediately -into about a quart of clear soup. The vermicelli must be taken from the -boiling water and thrown into the boiling soup at once. If you were to -boil the vermicelli, strain it off, and put it by to add to the soup, you -would find it would stick together in one lump and be spoilt. - - -VERMICELLI SOUP, WHITE.--The vermicelli must be thrown into white soup -instead of clear soup. (_See_ WHITE SOUP.) - - -WHITE SOUP.--Just as in ordinary white soup the secret of success is to -have some strongly reduced stock, so in vegetarian white soup it is -essential that we should have a small quantity of liquid strongly -impregnated with the flavour of vegetables. For this purpose, place an -onion, the white part of a head of celery, and a slice of turnip in a -stew-pan with a little butter, and fry them till they are tender without -becoming brown. Now add sufficient water to enable you to boil them, and -let the water boil away till very little is left. Now rub this through a -wire sieve and add it to a quart of milk in which a couple of bay-leaves -have been boiled. Thicken the soup with a little white roux, add a -suspicion of nutmeg, and also, if possible, a little cream. Flavour with -pepper and salt. Serve fried or toasted bread with the soup. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - -SAUCES. - - -SAUCE ALLEMANDE.--Take a pint of butter sauce--(_see_ BUTTER SAUCE)--and -add to it four yolks of eggs. In order to do this you must beat up the -yolks separately in a basin and add the hot butter sauce gradually, -otherwise the yolks of eggs will curdle and the sauce will be spoilt. In -fact, it must be treated exactly like custard, and in warming up the sauce -it is often a good plan, if you have no _bain-marie_, to put the sauce in a -jug and place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water. The sauce should be -flavoured with a little essence of mushroom if possible. Essence of -mushroom can be made from the trimmings of mushrooms, but mushroom ketchup -must not be used on account of the colour. Essence of mushroom can be made -by placing the trimmings of mushrooms in a saucepan, stewing them gently, -and extracting the flavour. The large black mushrooms, however, are not -suited. In addition to this essence of mushroom, a little lemon -juice--allowing the juice of half a lemon to every pint, should be added to -the sauce, as well as a slight suspicion of nutmeg, a pint of sauce -requiring about a dozen grates of a nutmeg. A little cream is a great -improvement to this sauce, but is not absolutely necessary. The sauce -should be perfectly smooth. Should it therefore contain any lumps, which -is not unfrequently the case in butter sauce, pass the sauce through a -sieve with a wooden spoon and then put it by in a _bain-marie_, or warm it -up in a jug as directed. - - -ALMOND SAUCE.--This is suitable for puddings. The simplest way of making -it is to make, say half a pint of butter sauce, or, cheaper, thicken half a -pint of milk with a little corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, and -then add a few drops of essence of almonds. About a dozen drops will be -sufficient if the essence is strong, but essence of almonds varies greatly -in strength. The sauce can be coloured pink with a few drops of cochineal. - - -ALMOND SAUCE (CLEAR).--Thicken half a pint of water with a little -corn-flour, sweeten it with white sugar, add a dozen drops of essence of -almonds and a few drops of cochineal to colour it pink. The sauce is very -suitable to pour over custard puddings made in a basin or cup and turned -out on to a dish. It is also very cheap. - - -APPLE SAUCE.--Peel say a dozen apples; cut them into quarters; and be very -careful in removing all the core, as many a child is choked through -carelessness in this respect. Stew the apples in a little water till they -become a pulp, placing with them half a dozen cloves and half a dozen -strips of the yellow part only of the outside of the rind of a _fresh_ -lemon of the size and thickness of the thumb-nail; sweeten with brown -sugar, that known as Porto Rico being the most economical. Add a small -piece of butter before serving. - - -ARROWROOT SAUCE.--Thicken half a pint of water with about a dessertspoonful -of arrowroot and sweeten it with white sugar. The sauce can be flavoured -by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or with a few -drops of essence of vanilla, or with the addition of a little sherry or -spirit, the best spirit being rum. This sauce can, of course, be coloured -pink with cochineal. - - -ARTICHOKE SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as if you were making artichoke soup, -only make the puree thicker by using less liquid. A simple artichoke sauce -can be made by boiling down a few Jerusalem artichokes to a pulp, rubbing -them through a wire sieve, and flavouring with pepper and salt. - - -ASPARAGUS SAUCE.--Boil a bundle of asparagus and rub all the green, tender -part through a wire sieve, till it is a thick pulp, flavour with a little -pepper and salt, add a small piece of butter, and a little spinach extract -(vegetable colouring sold in bottles) in order to give it a good colour. - - -BREAD SAUCE.--Take some dry crumb of bread, and rub through a wire sieve. -The simplest plan is to turn the wire sieve upside down on a large sheet of -paper. The bread must be stale, and stale pieces can be put by for this -purpose. Next take, say, a pint of milk, and let it boil; then throw in -the bread-crumbs and let them _boil_ in the milk. This is the secret of -good bread sauce. Add a dozen peppercorns, and place a whole onion in the -saucepan containing the bread and milk, and place the saucepan beside the -fire in order to allow the bread-crumbs to swell. It will be found that -though at starting the bread sauce was quite thin and milky, yet after a -time it becomes thick. Take out the onion, add a little piece of butter, -stir it up, and serve. A little cream is a great improvement, but is not -absolutely necessary. This sauce, though very simple, requires care: Many -persons will probably recollect having met with bread sauce which in -appearance resembled a poultice too much to be agreeable either to the -palate or the eye. - - -BUTTER SAUCE.--This is the most important of all the sauces with which we -have to deal. The great mistake made by the vast majority of women cooks -is that they will use milk. They thicken a pint of milk with a little -butter and flour, and then call it melted butter, and, as a rule, send to -table enough for twenty persons when only two or three are dining. As -butter sauce will be served with the majority of vegetables, we would call -the attention of vegetarians to the fact that, as a rule, ordinary -cookery-books take for granted that vegetables will be served with the -meat. When therefore vegetables are served separately, and are intended to -be eaten with bread as a course by themselves, some alteration must be made -in the method of serving them. Again, vegetarians should bear in mind -that, except in cases where poverty necessitates rigid economy, a certain -amount of butter may be considered almost a necessity, should the meal be -wished to be both wholesome and nourishing. Francatelli, who was -_chef-de-cuisine_ to the Earl of Chesterfield, and was also chief cook to -the Queen and _chef_ at the Reform Club, and afterwards manager of the -Freemasons' Tavern, in writing on this subject observes:--"Butter sauce, -or, as it is more absurdly called, melted butter, is the foundation of the -whole of the following sauces, and requires very great care in its -preparation. Though simple, it is nevertheless a very useful and agreeable -sauce when properly made. So far from this being usually the case, it is -too generally left to assistants to prepare, as an insignificant matter; -the result is therefore seldom satisfactory. When a large quantity of -butter sauce is required, put four ounces of fresh butter into a -middle-sized stew-pan, with some grated nutmeg and minionette pepper; to -these add four ounces of sifted flour, knead the whole well together, and -moisten with a pint of cold spring water; stir the sauce on the fire till -it boils, and after having kept it gently boiling for twenty minutes -(observing that it be not thicker than the consistency of common white -sauce), proceed to mix in one pound and a half of sweet fresh butter, -taking care to stir the sauce quickly the whole time of the operation. -Should it appear to turn oily, add now and then a spoonful of cold spring -water; finish with the juice of half a lemon, and salt to palate; then pass -the sauce through a tammy into a large _bain-marie_ for use." - -We have quoted the recipe of the late M. Francatelli in full, as we believe -it is necessary to refer to some very great authority in order to knock out -the prejudice from the minds of many who think that they not only can -themselves cook, but teach others, but who are bound in the chains of -prejudice and tradition which, too often, in the most simple recipes, lead -them to follow in the footsteps of their grandmothers. - -Real butter sauce can be made as follows, on a small scale:--Take a -claret-glass of water, and about a small teaspoonful of flour mixed with -rather more than the same quantity of butter, and mix this in the water -over the fire till it is of the consistency of very thin gruel. If it is -thicker than this, add a little more water. Now take any quantity of -butter, and gradually dissolve as much as you can in this thin gruel, -adding say half an ounce at a time, till the sauce becomes a rich oily -compound. After a time, if you add too much butter, the sauce will curdle -and turn oily, as described by Francatelli. - -Of course, in everyday life it is not necessary to have the butter sauce so -rich, still it is simply ridiculous to thicken a pint of milk, or a pint of -water, with a little butter and flour, and then call it butter sauce or -melted butter. Suppose we have a large white cabbage, like those met with -in the West of England, and we are going to make a meal off it in -conjunction with plenty of bread. Suppose the cabbage is sufficiently -large for six persons, surely half a pound of butter is not an excessive -quantity to use in making butter sauce for the purpose. Yet prejudice is -such that if we use half a pound of butter for the butter sauce, -housekeepers consider it extravagant. On the other hand, if the butter -were placed on the table, and the six persons helped themselves, and ate -bread and butter with the cabbage and finished the half-pound, it would not -be considered extravagant. Of course, this is simply prejudice. - -A simple way of making melted butter is as follows:--Take half a pint of -cold water, put it in a saucepan, and add sufficient white roux, or butter -and flour mixed, till it is of the consistency of thin gruel. Now -gradually dissolve in this, adding a little piece at a time, as much butter -as you can afford; add a suspicion of nutmeg, a little pepper and salt, and -a few drops of lemon-juice from a fresh lemon, if you have one in use. - - -BUTTER, MELTED, OR OILED BUTTER.--Melted butter, properly speaking, is -rarely met with in this country, but is a common everyday sauce on the -Continent. It is simply what it says. A piece of butter is placed in a -little sauce-boat and placed in the oven till the butter runs to oil, and -then sent to table with all kinds of fish with which in our present work we -have nothing to do; but it is also sent to table with all kinds of -vegetables, such as French artichokes, &c.; sometimes a spoonful of French -capers is added to the oiled butter. - - -BUTTER, BLACK, OR BEURRE NOIR.--Take two ounces of butter, and dissolve it -in a frying-pan, and let it frizzle till the butter turns a brown colour; -then add a tablespoonful of French vinegar, a teaspoonful of chopped -capers, a teaspoonful of Harvey's sauce, and a teaspoonful of mushroom -ketchup. Let it remain on the fire till the acidity of the vinegar is -removed by evaporation. This is a very delicious sauce, and can be served -with Jerusalem artichokes boiled whole, fried eggs, &c. - - -CAPER SAUCE.--Make some butter sauce, and to every half-pint of sauce add a -dessertspoonful of chopped French capers. If the sauce is liked sharp, add -some of the vinegar from the bottle of capers. - - -CARROT SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in carrot soup, using less liquid. - - -CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in cauliflower soup, using less -liquid. - - -CELERY SAUCE.--Proceed exactly as in celery soup, only using less liquid. -The thicker this sauce is the better. - - -CHERRY SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries, and put them -into a small stew-pan, with a dessertspoonful of black currant jelly, a -small stick of cinnamon, with half a dozen cloves, and add rather less than -half a pint of water, and let the whole simmer gently for about ten -minutes, when you must take out the spices and send the rest to table. - -N.B.--If wine is not objected to in cooking, it is a very good plan to add -claret instead of water. - - -CHESTNUT SAUCE.--Proceed as in making chestnut soup, using as little liquid -as possible, so as to make the sauce thick. - - -CINNAMON SAUCE.--The simplest way of making cinnamon sauce is to sweeten -some butter sauce with some white sugar, and then add a few drops of -essence of cinnamon. The sauce can be coloured pink with a little -cochineal. A little wine is an improvement. The sauce can also be made by -breaking up and boiling a stick of cinnamon in some water, and then using -the water to make some butter sauce. - - -COCOANUT SAUCE.--Grate the white, part of a cocoanut very finely, and boil -it till tender in a very small quantity of water; add about an equal -quantity of white sugar as there was cocoa-nut; mix in either the yolk of -an egg or a tablespoonful of cream. A little lemon juice is an -improvement. - - -CUCUMBER SAUCE.--Take two or three small cucumbers, peel them, slice them, -and place them in a dish with a little salt, which has the effect of -extracting the water. Now drain the pieces off and strain then in a cloth, -to extract as much moisture as possible. Put then in a frying-pan with a -little butter; fry them very gently, till they begin to turn colour, then -nib them through a wire sieve; moisten the pulp with a little butter sauce; -add a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg and vinegar to taste. - - -CURRANT SAUCE (RED).--Put a couple of tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly -into a small stew-pan, with half a dozen cloves, a small stick of cinnamon, -and the rind of an orange. Moisten with a little water, or still better, a -little claret, strain it off, and add the juice of the orange. - - -CURRANT SAUCE (BLACK).--Proceed exactly as in the above recipe, -substituting black currant jelly for red. - - -CURRY SAUCE.--Take six large onions, peel them, cut them up into small -pieces, and fry them in a frying-pan in about two ounces of butter. As -soon as the onions begin to change colour, take a small carrot and cut it -up into little piece; and a sour apple. When the onions, etc., are fried a -nice brown, add about a pint of vegetable stock or water and let the whole -simmer till the vegetables are quite tender, then add a tea-spoonful of -Captain White's curry paste and a dessertspoonful of curry powder; now rub -the whole through a wire sieve, and take care that all the vegetables go -through. It is rather troublesome, but will repay you, as good curry sauce -cannot be made without. The curry sauce should be sufficiently thick owing -to the vegetables being rubbed through the wire sieve. Should therefore -the onions be small, less water or stock had better be added. Curry sauce -could be thickened with a little brown roux, but it takes away from the -flavour of the curry. A few bay-leaves may be added to the sauce and -served up whole in whatever is curried. For instance, if we have a dish of -curried rice, half a dozen or more bay-leaves could be added to the sauce -and served up with the rice. - -There are many varieties of curry. In India fresh mangoes take the part of -our sour apples. Some persons add grated cocoanut to curry, and it is well -worth a trial, although on the P. and O. boats the Indian curry-cook mixes -the curry fresh every day and uses cocoanut oil for the purpose. In some -parts of India it is customary to serve up whole chillies in the curry, but -this would be better adapted to a stomach suffering from the effects of -brandy-pawnee than to the simple taste of the vegetarian. - - -DUTCH SAUCE.--This is very similar to Allemande Sauce. Take half a pint of -good butter sauce, make it thoroughly hot, add two yolks of eggs, taking -care that they do not curdle, a little pepper and salt, a suspicion of -nutmeg, and about a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar. Some persons -instead of using tarragon vinegar add a little lemon juice, say the half of -a fresh lemon to this quantity, and half a dozen fresh tarragon leaves, -blanched--that is, dipped for a few seconds in boiling water--and then -chopped very fine. The tarragon vinegar is much the simplest, as it is -very difficult to get fresh tarragon leaves unless one has a good garden or -lives near Covent Garden Market. - - -DUTCH SAUCE (GREEN).--Proceed exactly as above and colour the sauce a -bright green with a little spinach extract (vegetable colouring, sold in -bottles by all grocers). - - -EGG SAUCE.--Take half a dozen eggs, put them in a saucepan with sufficient -cold water to cover them. Put them on the fire and let them boil for ten -minutes after the water boils. Take them out and put them into cold water -and let them stand for ten minutes, when the shells can be removed; then -cut up the six hard-boiled eggs into little pieces, add sufficient butter -sauce to moisten them, make the whole hot, and serve. - -N.B.--Inexperienced cooks often think that hard-boiled eggs are bad when -they are not, owing to their often having a tinge of green colour round the -outside of the yolk and to their emitting a peculiar smell when the shells -are first removed while hot All eggs contain a small quantity of -sulphuretted hydrogen. - - -FENNEL SAUCE.--Blanch and chop up sufficient fennel to colour half a pint -of butter sauce a bright green, add a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice, -and serve. - - -GERMAN SWEET SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of dried cherries, a small -saltspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and a few strips of lemon peel, and put -them in a small saucepan with about a quarter of a pint of water, or still -better, claret, if wine is allowed, and let them simmer on the fire gently -for about half an hour; then rub the cherries through a wire sieve with the -liquor--(of course, the lemon peel and cloves will not rub through)--and -add this to a quarter of a pound of stewed prunes. This is a very popular -sauce abroad. - - -GINGER SAUCE.--The simplest way of making ginger sauce is to sweeten half a -pint of butter sauce and then add a few drops of essence of ginger. A -richer ginger sauce can be made by taking two or three tablespoonfuls of -preserved ginger and two or three tablespoonfuls of the syrup in which they -are preserved, rubbing this through a wire sieve, adding about an equal -quantity of butter sauce, making the whole hot in a saucepan. - - -GOOSEBERRY SAUCE.--Pick and then stew some green gooseberries, just -moistening the stewpan with a little water to prevent them burning. Rub -the whole through a hair sieve in order to avoid having any pips in the -sauce. Sweeten with a little Demerara sugar, as Porto Rico would be too -dark in colour. Colour the sauce a bright green with a little spinach -extract. - -N.B.--It is a mistake to add cream to gooseberry sauce, which is distinct -altogether from gooseberry fool. In Germany, vinegar is added to this -sauce and it is served with meat. - - -HORSE-RADISH SAUCE.--Horse-radish sauce is made, properly speaking, by -mixing grated horse-radish with cream, vinegar, sugar, made mustard, and a -little pepper and salt. A very simple method of making this sauce is to -substitute tinned Swiss milk for the cream and sugar. It is equally nice, -more economical, and possesses this great advantage: a few tins of Swiss -milk can always be kept in the store cupboard, whereas there is -considerable difficulty, especially in all large towns, in obtaining cream -without giving twenty-four hours' notice, and the result even then is not -always satisfactory. Horse-radish sauce is very delicious, and its -thickness should be entirely dependent upon the amount of grated -horse-radish. Sticks of horse-radish vary so very much in size that we -will say, grate sufficient to fill a teacup, throw this into a sauce -tureen, mix a dessertspoonful of Swiss milk with a tablespoonful of vinegar -and about two tablespoonfuls of milk and a teaspoonful of made mustard, add -this to the horse-radish, and, if necessary, sufficient milk to make the -whole of the consistency of bread sauce. As the sauce is very hot, as a -rule it is best not to add any pepper, which can be easily added afterwards -by those who like it. - - -INDIAN PICKLE SAUCE.--Chop up two or three tablespoonfuls of Indian -pickles, place them in a frying-pan with a quarter of a pint of water, and -if the pickles are sour as well as hot, let them simmer some little time so -as to get rid of the vinegar by evaporation. Then thicken the whole with -some brown roux till the sauce is as thick as pea soup. The vinegar should -be got rid of as much as possible. This is a very appetising dish with -boiled rice and Parmesan cheese. - - -ITALIAN SAUCE.--This is an old-fashioned recipe taken from a book written -in French, and published more than fifty years ago. Put into a saucepan a -little parsley, a shallot, some mushrooms and truffles, chopped very -finely, with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. Let all boil -gently for half an hour, add a spoonful of oil, and serve. - - -MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE.--Maitre d'hotel sauce is simply a lump of butter -mixed with some chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and lemon juice. - -Hot sauce is often called Maitre d'hotel when chopped blanched parsley and -lemon juice is added to a little white sauce. - - -MANGO CHUTNEY SAUCE.--Take a couple of tablespoonfuls of Mango Chutney, -moisten it with two or three tablespoonfuls of butter sauce, rub the whole -through a wire sieve, and serve either hot or cold. Or the chutney can be -simply chopped up fine and added to the butter sauce without rubbing -through the wire sieve. - - -MAYONNAISE SAUCE.--This is the most delicious of all cold sauces. It is -composed entirely of raw yolk of egg and oil, flavoured with a dash of -vinegar. When made properly it should be of the consistency of butter in -summer time. Many women cooks labour under the delusion that it requires -the addition of cream. Mayonnaise sauce is made as follows:--Break an egg -and separate the yolk from the white, and place the yolk at the bottom of a -large basin. Next take a bottle of oil, which must be cool but bright; if -the oil is cloudy, as it often is in cold weather, you cannot make the -sauce. Nor can you if the oil has been kept in a warm place. Now proceed -to let the oil drop, drop by drop, on the yolk of egg, and with a silver -fork, or still better, a wooden one, beat the yolk of egg and oil quickly -together. Continue to drop the oil, taking care that only a few drops drop -at a time, especially at starting, and continue to beat the mixture lightly -and quickly. Gradually the yolk of egg and oil will begin to get thick, -first of all like custard. When this is the case a little more oil may be -added at a time, but never more than a teaspoonful. As more oil is added, -and the beating continues, the sauce gets thicker and thicker, till it is -nearly as thick as butter in summer time. When it arrives at this stage no -more oil should be added. A little tarragon vinegar may be added at the -finish, or a little lemon juice. This makes the sauce whiter in colour. -One yolk of egg will take a teacupful of oil. It is best to add pepper and -salt when the salad is mixed. Mayonnaise sauce is by far the best sauce -for lettuce salad. It will keep a day, but should be kept in a cool place, -and the basin should be covered over with a moist cloth. - - -MAYONNAISE SAUCE, GREEN.--Make some mayonnaise sauce as above, and colour -it with some spinach colouring (vegetable colouring, sold in bottles by all -grocers). - - -MINT SAUCE.--Take plenty of fresh mint leaves, as the secret of good mint -sauce is to have plenty of mint. Chop up sufficient mint to fill a teacup, -put this at the bottom of a sauce tureen, pour sufficient boiling water on -the mint to thoroughly moisten it, and add a tablespoonful of brown sugar, -which dissolves best when the water is hot. Press the mint with a -tablespoon to extract the flavour, let it stand till it is quite cold, and -then add three or four tablespoonfuls of malt vinegar, stir it up, and the -sauce is ready. The quantity of vinegar added is purely a matter of taste, -but a teaspoonful of chopped mint floating in half a pint of vinegar is no -more mint sauce than dipping a mutton chop in a quart of boiling water -would be soup in ordinary cookery. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, WHITE.--Mushroom sauce can be made from fresh mushrooms or -tinned mushrooms. When made from fresh they must be small button -mushrooms, and not those that are black underneath. They must be peeled, -cut small, and have a little lemon juice squeezed over them to prevent them -turning colour, or they had still better be thrown into lemon juice and -water. They must now be fried in a frying-pan with a small quantity of -butter till they are tender, and then added to a little thickened milk, or -still better, cream. When made from tinned mushrooms, simply chop up the -mushrooms, reserving the liquor, then add a little cream and thicken with a -little white roux. A little pepper and salt should be added in both cases. -Instead of using either milk or cream, you can use a small quantity of -sauce Allemande. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, BROWN.--Proceed exactly as above with regard to the -mushrooms, both fresh and tinned, only instead of adding milk, cream, or -Allemande sauce, add a little stock or water, and then thicken the sauce -with a little brown roux. - - -MUSHROOM SAUCE, PUREE.--Mushroom sauce, both white and brown, is sometimes -served as a puree. It is simply either of the above sauces rubbed through -a wire sieve. - - -MUSTARD SAUCE.--Make, say, half a pint of good butter sauce, add to this a -tablespoonful of French mustard and a tablespoonful of made English -mustard. Stir this into the sauce, make it hot, and serve. - -N.B.--French mustard is sold ready-made in jars, and is flavoured with -tarragon, capers, ravigotte, &c. - - -ONION SAUCE.--Take half a dozen large onions, peel them and boil them in a -little salted water till they are tender. Then take them out and chop them -up fine, and put them in a stew-pan with a little milk. Thicken the sauce -with a little butter and flour, or white roux, and season with pepper and -salt. A very nice mild onion sauce is made by using Spanish onions. - - -ONION SAUCE, BROWN.--Slice up half a dozen good-sized onions; put them in a -frying-pan and fry them in a little butter till they begin to get brown, -but be careful not to burn them, and should there be a few black pieces in -the frying-pan, remove them; now chop up the onions, not too finely, and -put them in a saucepan with a very little stock or water, let them simmer -till they are tender, and then thicken the sauce with a little brown roux, -and flavour with pepper and salt. - - -ORANGE CREAM SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.--Take a large ripe orange and rub a dozen -lumps of sugar on the outside of the rind and dissolve these in a small -quantity of butter sauce, and add the juice of the orange, strained. Now -add a little cream, or half a pint of milk that has been boiled separately, -in which case the sauce will want thickening with a little white roux. -Rubbing the sugar on the outside of the rind of the orange gives a very -strong orange flavour indeed--far more than the juice of almost any number -of oranges would produce, so care must be taken not to overdo it. This is -what French cooks call zest of orange. - - -PARSLEY SAUCE.--Blanch and chop up sufficient parsley to make a brimming -tablespoonful when chopped. Add this to half a pint of butter sauce, with -a little pepper, salt, and lemon juice. It is very important to blanch the -parsley, _i.e._, throw it into a little boiling water before chopping. - - -PINE-APPLE SAUCE.--Take a pine-apple, peel it, cut it up into little pieces -on a dish, taking care not to lose any of the juice, place it in a saucepan -with a very little water, just sufficient to cover the pine-apple; let it -simmer gently until it is tender, and then add sufficient white sugar to -make the liquid almost a syrup; a teaspoonful of corn-flour, made smooth in -a little cold water, can be added; but the sauce should be of the -consistency of syrup, and the corn-flour does away with the difficulty of -making it too sickly. The juice of half a lemon may be added, and is, -perhaps, an improvement. - - -PLUM SAUCE.--When made from ripe plums, take, say, a pound, and place them -in a stew-pan with a very little water and a quarter of a pound of sugar. -Take out the stones and crack them. Throw the kernels into boiling water -so that you can rub off the skin, and add them to the sauce after you have -rubbed the stewed plums through a wire sieve. - -To make plum sauce from dried French plums proceed exactly as in making -Prune Sauce. (_See_ PRUNE SAUCE.) - - -POIVRADE SAUCE.--Take an onion, a very small head of celery, and a carrot, -and cut them into little pieces, and put them into a frying-pan with a -little butter, a saltspoonful of thyme, one or two dried bay-leaves, and -about a quarter of a grated nutmeg and two or three sprigs of parsley. Fry -these till they turn a light-brown colour, then add a little stock or -water, and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Let this boil in the frying-pan -for about half an hour, till the liquid is reduced in quantity. Thicken it -with a little brown roux, and rub it through a wire sieve, make it hot, and -serve. If wine is allowed, the addition of a little sherry is a great -improvement to this sauce. - - -PRUNE SAUCE.--Take a quarter of a pound of prunes, put them in a stew-pan -with just sufficient water to cover them, and let them stew. Put in one or -two strips of lemon-peel to stew with them, add a teaspoonful of brown -sugar, about sufficient powdered cinnamon to cover a shilling, and the -juice of half a lemon. When the prunes are quite tender take out the strip -of lemon-peel and stones, rub the whole through a wire sieve, and serve. - - -RADISH SAUCE.--Take a few bunches of radishes and grate them, and mix this -grated radish with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt. You can colour -the sauce red by adding a little beetroot, and make the sauce hot by adding -a little grated horse-radish. This cold sauce is exceedingly nice with -cheese. These _grated_ radishes are more digestible than radishes served -whole. - - -RASPBERRY SAUCE.--This sauce is simply stewed raspberries rubbed through a -wire sieve and sweetened. Some red-currant juice should be added to give -it a colour. It is very nice made hot and then added to one or two -beaten-up eggs and poured over any plain puddings, such as boiled rice, &c. - - -RATAFIA SAUCE.--Add a few drops of essence of ratafia to some sweetened -arrowroot or to some butter sauce. The sauce can be coloured pink with a -few drops of cochineal. - - -RAVIGOTTE SAUCE.--Put a tablespoonful each of Harvey's sauce, tarragon -vinegar, and chilli vinegar into a small saucepan, and let it boil till it -is reduced to almost one-half in quantity, in order to get rid of the -acidity. Now add about half a pint of butter sauce, and throw in a -tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley. - - -ROBERT SAUCE.--Take a couple of onions, cut them up into small pieces, and -fry them with about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan. Drain off the -butter and add a couple of tablespoonfuls of vinegar to the frying-pan, and -let it simmer for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour so as to get rid of -the acidity of the vinegar. Now add a very little stock or water, stir it -tip, and thicken the sauce with a little brown roux. Add a dessertspoonful -of fresh mustard and a little pepper and salt. - - -SOUBISE SAUCE.--Sauce Soubise is simply white onion sauce, rubbed through a -wire sieve, and a little cream added. It is more delicate than ordinary -onion sauce, and is often served in France with roast pheasant. It owes -its name to a famous French general. - - -SORREL SAUCE.--Put about a quart of fresh green sorrel leaves (after being -thoroughly washed) into an enamelled saucepan, with a little fresh butter, -and let the sorrel stew till it is tender. Rub this through a wire sieve, -add a little powdered sugar and a little lemon juice; a little cream may be -added, but is not absolutely essential. - - -SWEET SAUCE.--Take half a pint of butter sauce, and sweeten it with a -little sugar. It can be flavoured by rubbing a little sugar on the outside -of a lemon, or with vanilla, essence of almonds, or any kind of sweet -essence. A little wine, brandy, or, still better, rum, is a great -improvement. Some persons add cream. - - -TARRAGON SAUCE.--Blanch a dozen tarragon leaves, chop them up, and stew -them in any kind of stock thickened with brown roux. - - -TARTAR SAUCE.--Take two or three tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise sauce, and -add to this a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, as well as -a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of the thumb down to -the first joint, chopped very fine, and a brimming teaspoonful of French -mustard. Mix the whole well together. - -N.B.--A teaspoonful of anchovy sauce would be a great improvement were -anchovy sauce allowed in vegetarian cookery. - -TOMATO SAUCE.--The great secret of tomato sauce is to taste nothing but the -tomato. Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut off the stalks, and squeeze out -the pips, and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter, and let them -stew till they are tender, and then rub the whole through a wire sieve. -This, in our opinion, is the best tomato sauce that can be made, the only -seasoning being a little pepper and salt. This wholesome and delicious -sauce can, however, be spoilt in a variety of ways--by the addition of -mace, cloves, shallots, onions, thyme, &c. It can also be made very -unwholesome by the addition of a quantity of vinegar. - -TRUFFLE SAUCE.--This sauce is very expensive if made from whole fresh -truffles, but can be made more cheaply if you can obtain some truffle chips -or parings. These must be stewed in a little stock, thickened with brown -roux, and then rubbed through a wire sieve, a little sherry being a great -improvement if wine is allowed. - - -VANILLA SAUCE.--Add some essence of vanilla to some sweetened butter sauce. - - -WHITE SAUCE.--White sauce is sometimes required for vegetables and -sometimes for puddings. In the former case some good-flavoured, uncoloured -stock must be thickened with white roux, and then have sufficient cream -added to it to make the sauce a pure white. - -When white sauce is wanted for puddings, sufficient butter sauce must be -sweetened, and very slightly flavoured with nutmeg or almond, and then an -equal quantity of cream added to it to make it a pure white. White sauce -should not have with it any strong predominant flavour. - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -SAVOURY RICE, MACARONI, OATMEAL, &c. - -RICE. - - -Probably all persons will admit that rice is a too much neglected form of -food in England. When we remember how small a quantity of rice weekly is -found sufficient to keep alive millions and millions of our -fellow-creatures in the East, it seems to be a matter of regret that rice -as an article of food is not more used by the thousands and thousands of -our fellow creatures in the East--not in the ordinary acceptation of the -term, but East of Temple Bar. Rice is cheap, nourishing, easily cooked, -and equally easily digested, yet that monster, custom, seems to step in and -prevent the bulk of the poor availing themselves of this light and -nourishing food solely for the reason that, as their grandfathers and -grandmothers did not eat rice before them, they do not see any reason why -they should, like the Irishman who objected to have his feet washed on the -same ground. Of the different kinds of rice Carolina is the best, the -largest, and the most expensive. Patna rice is almost as good; the grains -are long, small, and white, and it is the best rice for curry. Madras rice -is the cheapest. - -Rice, pure and simple, is the food most suited for hot climates and where a -natural indolence of disposition results in one's day's work of an ordinary -Englishman being divided among twenty people. As we move towards more -temperate zones it will be found the universal custom to qualify it by -mixing it with some other substance; thus, though rice is largely eaten in -Italy, it is almost invariably used in conjunction with Parmesan cheese. -Rice contains no flesh-forming properties whatever, as it contains no -nitrogen; and with all due respect to vegetarians, it will be found that as -we recede from the Equator and advance towards the Poles our food must of -necessity vary with the latitude, and, whereas we may start on a diet of -rice, we shall be forced, sooner or later, to depend upon a diet of -pemmican, or food of a similar nature. - - -RICE, TO BOIL.--The best method of boiling rice is, at any rate, a much -disputed point, if not an open question. There are as many ways almost of -boiling rice as dressing a salad, and each one thinks his own way the best. -We will mention a few of the most simple, and will illustrate it by boiling -a small quantity that can be contained in a teacup. Of course, boiling -rice is very much simplified if you want some rice-water as well as rice -itself. Rice-water contains a great deal of nourishment, a fact which is -well illustrated by the well-known story of the black troops who served in -India under Clive, who, at the siege of Arcot, told Clive, when they were -short of provisions, that the water in which the rice was boiled would be -sufficient for them, while the more substantial grain could be preserved -for the European troops. Take a teacupful of rice and wash the rice in -several waters till the water ceases to be discoloured. Now throw the rice -into boiling water, say a quart; let the rice boil gently till it is -tender, strain off the rice and reserve the rice-water for other purposes. -The time rice will take to boil treated this way would be probably about -twenty minutes, but this time would vary slightly with the quality and size -of the rice. - - * * * * * - -Many years ago we watched a black man boiling rice on board a P. and O. -boat (the _Mizapore_); he proceeded as follows:--He boiled the rice for -about ten minutes, or perhaps a minute or two longer, strained it off in a -sieve, and then washed the rice with cold water, and then put the rice back -in the stew-pan to once more get hot and swell. Of course, this rice was -being boiled for curry, and certainly the result was that each grain was -beautifully separated from every other grain. We do not think, however, -that this method of boiling rice is customary on all the boats of the P. -and O. Company. Of course this method of boiling rice was somewhat -wasteful. - -By far the most economical method of boiling rice is as follows; and we -would recommend it to all who are in the habit of practising economy on the -grounds of either duty or necessity. Wash thoroughly, as before, a -teacupful of rice and put it in a small stew-pan or saucepan with two -breakfastcupfuls of water, bring this to a boil and let it boil for ten -minutes, then remove the saucepan to the side of the fire and let the rice -soak and swell for about twenty minutes. After a little time, you can put -a cloth on the top of the saucepan to absorb the steam, similar to the way -you treat potatoes after having strained off the water. - -In boiling rice we must remember that there are two ways in which rice is -served. One is as a meal in itself, the other as an accompaniment to some -other kind of food. It will be found in Italy and Turkey and in the East -generally, where rice forms, so to speak, the staff of life, that it is not -cooked so soft and tender as it is in England, where it is generally served -with something else. In fact, each grain of rice may be said to resemble -an Irish potato, inasmuch as it has a heart in it. In Ireland potatoes, as -a rule, are not cooked so much as they are in most parts of England. -Probably the reason of this is, in most cases, that experience has taught -people that there is more stay in rice and potatoes when served in a state -that English people would call "under-done." There is no doubt that the -waste throughout the length and breadth of this prosperous land through -over-cooking is something appalling. - -Another very good method of boiling rice is the American style. Take a -good-sized stew-pan or saucepan that has a tight-fitting lid. Put a cloth -over the saucepan, after first pouring in, say, a pint of water; push down -the cloth, keeping it tight, so as to make a well, but do not let the cloth -reach the water; wash the rice as before, and put on the lid tight. Of -course, with the cloth the lid will fit very tight indeed. Now put the -saucepan on the fire and make the water boil continuously. By these means -you steam the rice till it is tender and lose none of the nourishment. We -can always learn from America. - - -RISOTTO A LA MILANNAISE.--Take a teacupful of rice, wash it thoroughly and -dry it. Chop up a small onion and put it in the bottom of a small stew-pan -and fry the onion to a light-brown colour. Now add the dry rice, and stir -this up with the onion and butter till the rice also is fried of a nice -light-brown colour. Now add two breakfastcupfuls of stock or water and a -pinch of powdered saffron, about sufficient to cover a threepenny-piece; -let the rice boil for ten or eleven minutes, move the saucepan to the side -of the fire and let it stand for twenty minutes or half an hour till it has -absorbed all the stock or water. Now mix in a couple of tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese. Flavour with a little pepper and salt, and serve -the whole very hot. - - -RICE WITH CABBAGE AND CHEESE.--Wash some rice and let it soak in some hot -water, with a cabbage sliced up, for about an hour; then strain it off and -put the rice and cabbage in a stew-pan with some butter, a little pepper -and salt, and about a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Toss these about in the -butter for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour over the fire, but do not -let them turn colour; then add a small quantity of water or stock, let it -stew till it is tender, and then serve it very hot with some grated cheese -sprinkled over the top. - -N.B.--The end of cheese rind can be utilised with this dish. - - -RICE WITH CHEESE.--Wash some rice and then boil it for ten or eleven -minutes in some milk, and let it stand till it has soaked up all the milk. -The proportion generally is, as we have said before, a teacupful of rice to -two breakfastcupfuls of milk; but as we shall want the rice rather moist on -the present occasion, we must allow a little more milk. Now mix in some -grated cheese and a little pepper and salt, place the mixture in a -pie-dish, and cover the top with grated cheese, and place the pie-dish in -the oven and bake till the top is nicely browned, and then serve. - -Some cooks add a good spoonful of made mustard to the mixture. Some -persons prefer it and some don't; it is therefore best to serve some made -mustard with the rice and cheese at table. Unless the mixture was fairly -moist before it was put into the pie-dish, it would dry up in the oven and -become uneatable. - - -RICE, CURRIED.--Boil a teacupful of well-washed rice in two -breakfastcupfuls of water, and let the rice absorb all the water; put a -cloth in the saucepan, and stir up the rice occasionally with a fork till -the grains become dry and separate easily the one from the other. Now mix -it up with some curry sauce, make the whole hot, and send it to table with -a few whole bay-leaves mixed in with the rice. Only sufficient curry sauce -should be added to moisten the rice--it must not be rice swimming in gravy; -or you can make a well in the middle of the boiled rice and pour the curry -sauce into this. - - -RICE BORDERS (CASSEROLES).--Casseroles, or rice borders, form a very -handsome dish. It consists of a large border made of rice, the outside of -which can be ornamented and the centre of which can be filled with a -macedoine (_i.e._, a mixture) of fruit or vegetables. As you are probably -aware, grocers have in their shop-windows small tins with copper labels, on -which the word is printed "Macedoine." This tin contains a mixture of -cut-up, cooked vegetables. These are very useful to have in the house, as -a nice dish can be served at a few moments' notice. Mixed fruits are also -sold in bottles under the name of Macedoine of Fruits. Of course, both -vegetables and fruit can be prepared at home much cheaper from fresh fruit -and vegetables, but this requires time and forethought. These mixtures are -very much improved in appearance when served in a handsomely made rice -border, and as the border is eaten with the vegetables and fruit there is -no want of economy in the recipe. Suppose we are going to make a rice -border. Take a pound of rice and wash it carefully if we are going to fill -it with fruit we must boil it in sweetened milk, but if we are going to -fill it with vegetables we must boil it in vegetable stock or water. Add, -as the case may be, sufficient liquid to boil the rice till it is -thoroughly tender and soft. Now place it in a large bowl, and with a -wooden spoon mash it till it becomes a sort of firm, compact paste; then -take it out and roll it into the shape of a cannon-ball, and having done -this, flatten it till it becomes of the shape of the cheeses one meets with -in Holland--flat top and bottom, with rounded edges. You can now ornament -the outside by making it resemble a fluted mould of jelly. The best way of -doing this is to cut a carrot in half and scoop out part of the inside with -a cheese-scoop, so that the width of the part where it is scooped is about -the same as the two flat sides. Make the outside of the rice perfectly -smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Butter the carrot mould to prevent -it sticking, and press this gently on the outside of the shape of rice till -it resembles the outside of a column in Gothic architecture, then place it -in the oven and let it bake till it is firm and dry. Then scoop out the -centre and put it back for a short time. If the border is going to be used -for a macedoine of vegetables, beat up a yolk of egg and paint the outside -of the casserole with this, and then it will bake a nice golden-brown -colour. Now take it out of the oven and fill it accordingly. It can be -served hot or cold, or it can be filled with a German salad. (_See_ -MACEDOINE OF FRUIT; MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES; SALAD, GERMAN.) - - -RICE CROQUETTES, SAVOURY.--Boil a teacupful of rice in some stock or water -(about two breakfastcupfuls), till it is tender, and until the rice has -absorbed all the water or stock. Chop up a small onion very fine, fry it -till tender in a very little butter, but do not let it brown; add a small -teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs, a brimming teaspoonful of chopped -parsley, to the contents of the frying-pan for two or three minutes, and -then add them to the rice. Mix it well together, and let the rice dry in -the oven till the mixture is capable of being rolled into balls. Now take -two eggs, separate the yolk from the white of one, beat up the whole egg -and one white thoroughly in a basin, but do no beat it to a froth; add the -rice mixture to this, mix it again very thoroughly, and then roll it into -balls about the size of a small walnut, seasoning the mixture with -sufficient pepper and salt. Roll these balls in flour, in order to insure -the outside being dry, and roll them backwards and forwards on the sieve in -order to get rid of the superfluous flour. Make some very fine -bread-crumbs from some stale bread; next beat up the yolk of egg with about -a dessertspoonful of warm water. Dip the rice-balls into this, and then -cover them with the bread-crumbs. Let them stand for an hour or two for -the bread-crumbs to get dry, and then fry them a light golden-brown colour -in a little oil. Fried parsley can be served with them. - -Instead of bread-crumbs you can use up broken vermicelli--the bottom of a -jar of vermicelli can sometimes be utilised this way. This has a very -pretty appearance. The vermicelli browns quickly, and the croquettes have -the appearance of little balls covered in brown network. - - -RICE, SAVOURY.--There are several ways of serving savoury rice. The rice -can be boiled in some stock, strongly flavoured with onion and celery, and -when cooked sufficiently tender one or two eggs can be beaten up with it, -pepper and salt added, and the mixture served with grated cheese. - -Rice can also be rendered savoury by the addition of chopped mushrooms, -pepper and salt, and a little butter, and if a tin of mushrooms is used, -the liquor in the tin should be added to the boiled rice, but in every case -the rice should be made to absorb the liquor in which it is boiled. Eggs -can again be added, as well as grated Parmesan cheese. - -A cheap and quick way of making rice savoury is to mix it with a large -tablespoonful of chutney; make it hot with a little butter, and add -pepper--cayenne if preferred--and a little lemon-juice. - -Rice can also be served as savoury by boiling it in any of the sauces that -may be termed savoury in distinction to those that are sweet, given in the -chapter entitled "Sauces." - - -RICE AND EGGS.--Boil, say half a pound of rice, and let it absorb the water -in which it is boiled. Take four hard-boiled eggs, separate the yolks from -the whites, chop the whites very fine, and add them to the rice with about -a brimming teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley and sufficient savoury -herbs to cover a sixpence. Put this in the saucepan and make it hot, with -a little butter, and flavour with plenty of pepper and salt. In the -meantime beat the yellow hard-boiled yolks to a yellow powder, turn out the -rice mixture, when thoroughly hot, into a vegetable dish, and put the -yellow powder either in the centre or make a ring of the yellow powder -round the edge of the rice, and serve a little pile of fried parsley in the -middle. - - -RICE AND TOMATO.--Take half-a-dozen ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the pips, -and put them in a tin in the oven with a little butter to bake; baste them -occasionally with a little butter. In the meantime boil half a pound of -rice in a little stock or water, only adding sufficient so that the rice -can absorb the liquid. When this is done (and this will take about the -same time as the tomatoes take to bake), pour all the liquid and butter in -the tin on to the rice and stir it well up with some pepper and salt. Put -this on a dish, and serve the tomatoes on the rice with the red, unbroken -side uppermost. - - -MACARONI.--Macaroni is a preparation of pure wheaten flour. It is chiefly -made in Italy, though a good deal is made in Geneva and Switzerland. The -best macaroni is made in the neighbourhood of Naples. The wheat that grows -there ripens quickly under the pure blue sky and hot sun, and consequently -the outside of the wheat is browner while the inside of the wheat is whiter -than that grown in England. The wheat is ground and sifted repeatedly. It -is generally sifted about five times, and the pure snow-white flour that -falls from the last sifting is made into macaroni. It is first mixed with -water and made into a sort of dough, the dough being kneaded in the truly -orthodox Eastern style by being trodden out with the feet. It is then -forced by a sort of rough machinery through holes, partially baked during -the process, and then hung up to dry. Macaroni contains a great amount of -nourishment, and it is only made from the purest and finest flour. It is -the staple dish throughout Italy, and in whatever form or way it is cooked, -except as a sweet, tomatoes and grated Parmesan cheese seem bound to -accompany it. - - -SPARGHETTI.--Sparghetti is a peculiar form of macaroni. Ordinary macaroni -is made in the form of long tubes, and when macaroni pudding is served in -schools, it is often irreverently nicknamed by the boys gas-pipes. -Sparghetti is not a tube, but simply macaroni made in the shape of ordinary -wax-tapers, which it resembles very much in appearance. In Italy it is -often customary to commence dinner with a dish of sparghetti, and should -the dinner consist as well of soup, fish, entree, salad, and sweet, the -sparghetti would be served before the soup. Take, say, half a pound of -sparghetti, wash it in cold water, and throw it instantly into boiling -salted water; boil it till it is tender, about twenty minutes, drain it, -put it into a hot vegetable-dish, and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese; toss it about lightly with a couple of forks, till -the cheese melts and forms what may be called cobwebs on tossing it about. -Add also two tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve (sold by all grocers, in -bottles), and serve immediately. This is very cheap, very satisfying, and -very nourishing; and it is to be regretted that this popular dish is not -more often used by those who are not vegetarians, who would benefit both in -pocket and in health were they to lessen their butcher's bill by at any -rate commencing dinner, like the Italians, with a dish of sparghetti. - - -MACARONI--ITALIAN FASHION.--This is very similar to sparghetti, only -ordinary pipe macaroni is used. Take, say, a teacupful of macaroni, wash -it, break it up into two-inch pieces, and throw it into boiling water that -has been salted. Strain it of off, put it in the stew-pan for a few -minutes, with a little piece of butter and some pepper and salt. Add a -tablespoonful of tomato conserve, and serve it with some grated Parmesan -cheese, served separate in a dish. - -Some rub the stew-pan with a head of garlic. This gives it what may be -called a more foreign flavour, but this should not be done unless you know -your guests like garlic. Unfortunately, the proper use of garlic is very -little understood in this country. - -MACARONI CHEESE.--Some years back this was almost the only form in which -macaroni was served in this country. Macaroni cheese used to be served at -the finish of dinner in a dried-up state, and was perhaps one of the most -indigestible dishes which the skill, or want of skill, of our English cooks -was able to produce. Wash and then boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni -in a little milk till it is quite tender, then put into a well-buttered -oval tin a layer of macaroni, and cover this with a layer of bread-crumbs, -mixed with grated cheese, and add a few little lumps of butter; then put -another layer of macaroni and another layer of bread-crumbs and cheese. -Continue alternate layers till you pile up the dish, taking care to have a -layer of dried bread-crumbs at the top. Warm some butter, but do not oil -it, and pour some of this warm butter over the top of the dish to moisten -them; put the dish in the oven till it is hot through, then take it out and -brown the top quickly with a red-hot salamander. If you leave the macaroni -cheese in the oven too long the dish will taste oily and the cheese get so -hard as to become absolutely indigestible. Any kind of grated cheese will -do for this dish, but to the English palate it is best when made from a -moist cheese similar to that which would be used in making Welsh rabbit. - - -MACARONI AND EGGS.--Take half a pound of macaroni and throw it into boiling -water that has been salted. In the meantime have ready four hard-boiled -eggs. When the macaroni is nearly tender throw the hard-boiled eggs into -cold water for a minute, in order to enable you to take off the shells -without burning your fingers. Cut the eggs in half, take out the half -yellow yolk without breaking it; cut the whites of the eggs into rings and -mix these rings with the macaroni on the dish. The macaroni and eggs must -be flavoured with pepper and salt, and if possible pour a little white -sauce over the whole. If you have no white sauce add a little cream or a -little thickened milk with a little butter dissolved in it; now sprinkle a -little chopped blanched parsley over the whole and ornament the dish with -the eight half-yolks. - - -MACARONI A LA REINE.--Boil half a pound of pipe macaroni. Meanwhile warm -slowly in a saucepan three-quarters of a pint of cream, and slice into it -half a pound of Stilton or other white cheese, add two ounces of good fresh -butter, two blades of mace, pounded, a good pinch of cayenne and a little -salt. Stir until the cheese is melted and the whole is free from lumps, -when put in the macaroni and move it gently round the pan until mixed and -hot, or put the macaroni on a hot dish and pour the sauce over. It may be -covered with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour and browned in a Dutch -oven. - - -MACARONI AU GRATIN.--Break up a pound of macaroni in three-inch lengths, -boil as usual and drain. Put into a stew-pan a quarter of a pound of fresh -butter, the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and Gruyere cheese mixed, -and about a quarter of a pint of some good sauce, white sauce. Move the -stew-pan and its contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the -butter, etc., then turn it out on a dish, which should be garnished with -croutons of fried bread. Pile it in the shape of a dome, cover with -bread-raspings, a little clarified butter run through a colander, and brown -very lightly with a salamander. - -N.B.--The above two recipes are taken from "Cassell's Dictionary of -Cookery." - - -MACARONI AS AN ORNAMENT.--Macaroni is sometimes used to ornament the -outside of puddings, either savoury or sweet. Suppose the pudding has to -be made in a small round mould or basin. Some pipe macaroni is boiled in -water till it is tender, and then cut up into little pieces a quarter of an -inch in length. The inside of the mould is first thickly buttered, and -then these little quarter-inch tubes are stuck in the butter close -together; the pudding, for instance a custard pudding, is then poured into -the mould and the mould steamed. When the pudding is turned out the -outside of the pudding has the appearance of a honey-comb, and looks -extremely pretty. The process is not difficult, but rather troublesome, as -it requires time and patience. - - -MACARONI, TIMBALE OF--This is a somewhat expensive dish. You have first to -decorate a plain mould with what is called _nouilles_ paste, which is made -by mixing half a pound of flour with five yolks of eggs. The mould is then -lined with ordinary short paste, made with half a pound of flour, a quarter -of a pound of butter, and one yolk of egg, mixed in the ordinary way. When -the mould is lined, you have to fill it up with flour, and bake it in a -moderate oven for about an hour. You then take it out, empty out the flour -and brush it well out with an ordinary brush and dry the mould in a very -slack oven. The mould is then filled with some macaroni that has been -boiled tender in milk and flavoured with vanilla and sugar and Parmesan -cheese. The macaroni must be so managed that it absorbs the moisture. The -mould is filled, made hot, and then turned out. It is customary to shake -some powdered sugar over the mould, and then glaze it with a red-hot -salamander. - -N.B.--Very few kitchens possess a proper salamander, but if you make the -kitchen shovel red-hot it will be found to answer the same purpose. - - -MACARONI IN SCOLLOP SHELLS.--Take half a pound of macaroni, wash it, and -throw it into boiling water. Take the macaroni out, drain it, and throw it -into cold water. Then take it out and cut it into pieces not more than -half an inch in length. Take about a quarter of a pound of butter, melt it -in a stew-pan, and add about a cupful of milk, or still better, cream. -Stir it and dredge in enough flour to make it thick, or still better, -thicken it with a little white roux; now add some pepper and salt, about a -quarter of a grated nutmeg, two or three spoonfuls of grated Parmesan -cheese; add the cut-up macaroni and stir the whole well up over the fire -together and fill the scollop shells with the mixture, and throw some -grated cheese over the top. Bake the scollops in the oven till the cheese -begins to brown; then pour a little oiled butter over the top of the -cheese. If made with cream this dish is somewhat rich, but forms an -admirable meal eaten with plenty of bread. - - -MACARONI NUDELS.--The word nudel is probably derived from French _nouilles_ -paste. It is made in a similar manner, or nearly so. French cooks use -only yolk of egg and flour. English cooks use beaten-up eggs, and -sometimes even reserve the yolks for other purposes and make the paste with -white of egg. In any case, the yolks, the whole eggs, or the white without -the yolks, must be well beaten up and then mixed in with the flour with the -fingers till it makes a stiff paste. This paste or dough is then rolled -out with a straight rolling pin--(not an English one)--till it is as thin -as a wafer. The board must be well floured or it will stick. A marble -slab is best, and if you are at a loss for a rolling-pin try an empty black -bottle. It is very important to roll the pastry thin, and it has been well -observed that the best test of thinness is to be able to read a book -through the paste. When rolled out, let each thin cake dry for five or ten -minutes. If you have a box of cutters you can cut this paste into all -sorts of shapes according to the shape of the cutters, or you can cut each -thin cake into pieces about the same size, and then with a sharp dry knife -cut the paste into threads. These threads or ornamental shapes can be -thrown into boiling clear soup, when they will separate of their own -accord. Nudel paste is, in fact, home-made Italian paste, or, when cut -into threads, home-made vermicelli. It is very nourishing, as it is made -with eggs and flour. - - -MACARONI, SAVOURY.--Take half a pound of macaroni and boil it in some -slightly salted water, and let it boil and simmer till the macaroni is -tender and absorbs all the water in which it is boiled. Now take a -dessertspoonful of raw mustard, _i.e._, mustard in the yellow powder. Mix -this gradually with the macaroni, and add five or six tablespoonfuls of -grated Parmesan cheese and a little cayenne or white pepper according to -taste. Turn the mixture out on to a dish, sprinkle some more grated -Parmesan cheese over the top, bake it in the oven till it is slightly -brown, pour a little oiled butter on the top, and serve. - - -MACARONI AND CHESTNUTS.--Bake about twenty chestnuts till they are tender, -and then peel them and pound them in a mortar, with a little pepper and -salt and butter, till they are a paste. Next wash and boil in the ordinary -way half a pound of macaroni. Drain off the macaroni and put it in a -stew-pan with the chestnuts and about a couple of ounces of butter to -moisten it, and stir it all together and put an onion in to flavour it as -if you were making bread sauce; but the onion must be taken out whole -before it is served. If the mixture gets too dry, it can be moistened with -a little milk or stock. After it has been stirred together for about a -quarter of an hour, turn it out on to a dish, cover it with a little -Parmesan cheese, bake in the oven till it is brown, and moisten the top -when browned with a little oiled butter. - - -MACARONI AND TOMATOES.--Take half a pound of macaroni; wash it and boil it -until it is tender. In the meantime take half a dozen or more ripe -tomatoes; cut off the stalks, squeeze out the pips, and place them in a tin -in the oven with a little butter to prevent their sticking. It is as well -to baste the tomatoes once or twice with the butter and the juice that will -come from them. Put the macaroni when tender and well drained off into a -vegetable-dish, pour the contents of the tin, butter and juice, over the -macaroni and add pepper and salt, and toss it lightly together. Now place -the whole tomatoes on the top of the macaroni, round the edge, at equal -distances. It is a great improvement to the appearance of the dish to -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the macaroni. The tomatoes -should be placed with the smooth, red, unbroken side uppermost. - - -Macaroni and Cream.--Boil half a pound of macaroni; cut it up into pieces -about two inches long and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter -and a quarter of a pound of grated cheese, composed of equal parts of -Gruyere and Parmesan cheese. Moisten this with about three tablespoonfuls -of cream. Toss it all lightly together till the cheese makes cobwebs. Add -a little pepper and salt and serve with some fried bread round the edge cut -up into ornamental shapes. Carefully made pieces of toast, cut into -triangles, will do instead of the fried bread. - - -TAGLIATELLI.--Take some flour and water, and with the addition of a little -salt make a paste which can be rolled out quite thin; cut this into shapes -of the breadth of half a finger. Throw them into boiling water and let -them boil a few minutes. Then remove them to cold water; drain them on a -sieve and use them as macaroni; place at the bottom of a dish some butter -and grated cheese, then a layer of _tagliatelli_ seasoned with pepper, -another layer of butter and cheese, and then one of _tagliatelli_, until -the whole is used; pour over it a glass of cream, add a layer of cheese, -and finish like macaroni cheese, browning it in the oven. - - -OATMEAL PORRIDGE.--Of all dishes used by vegetarians there are none more -wholesome, more nourishing, or more useful as an article of everyday diet -for breakfast than oatmeal porridge. When we remember that the Scotch, -who, for both body and brain, rank perhaps first amongst civilised nations, -almost live on this cheap and agreeable form of food, we should take -particular pains in the preparation of a standing dish which is in itself a -strong argument in favour of a vegetarian diet when we look at the results, -both mentally and bodily, that have followed its use North of the Tweed. -The following excellent recipe for the preparation of oatmeal porridge is -taken from a book entitled, "A Year's Cookery," by Phyllis Browne (Cassell -& Co.):--"When there are children in the family it is a good plan, whatever -they may have for breakfast, to let them begin the meal either with oatmeal -porridge or bread-and-milk. Porridge is wholesome and nourishing, and will -help to make them strong and hearty. Even grown-up people frequently enjoy -a small portion of porridge served with treacle and milk. Oatmeal is -either 'coarse,' 'medium,' or 'fine.' Individual taste must determine -which of these three varieties shall be chosen. Scotch people generally -prefer the coarsest kind. The ordinary way of making porridge is the -following--Put as much water as is likely to be required into a saucepan -with a sprinkling of salt, and let the water boil. Half a pint of water -will make a single plateful of porridge. Take a knife (a 'spurtle' is the -proper utensil) in the right hand, and some Scotch, or coarse, oatmeal in -the left hand, and sprinkle the meal in gradually, stirring it briskly all -the time; if any lumps form draw them to the side of the pan and crush them -out. When the porridge is sufficiently thick (the degree of thickness must -be regulated by individual taste), draw the pan back a little, _put on the -lid_, and let the contents simmer gently till wanted; if it can have two -hours' simmering, all the better; but in hundreds of families in Scotland -and the North of England it is served when it has boiled for ten minutes or -a quarter of an hour; less oatmeal is required when it can boil a long -time, because the simmering swells the oatmeal, and so makes it go twice as -far. During the boiling the porridge must be stirred frequently to keep it -from sticking to the saucepan and burning, but each time this is done the -lid must be put on again. When it is done enough it should be poured into -a basin or upon a plate, and served hot with sugar or treacle and milk or -cream. The very best method that can be adopted for making porridge is to -soak the coarse Scotch oatmeal in water for _twelve hours_, or more (if the -porridge is wanted for breakfast it may be put into a pie-dish over night, -and left till morning). As soon as the fire is lighted in the morning it -should be placed on it, stirred occasionally, kept covered, and boiled as -long as possible, although it may be served when it has boiled for twenty -minutes. When thus prepared it will be almost like a delicate jelly, and -acceptable to the most fastidious palate. The proportions for porridge -made in this way are a heaped tablespoonful of coarse oatmeal to a pint of -water. - -"It is scarcely necessary to give directions for making-- - - -"BREAD AND MILK, for everyone knows how this should be done. It may be -said that the preparation has a better appearance if the bread is cut very -small before the boiling milk is poured on it, and also that the addition -of a small pinch of salt takes away the insipidity. Rigid economists -sometimes swell the bread with boiling water, then drain this off and pour -milk in its place. This, however, is almost a pity, for milk is so very -good for children; and though recklessness is seldom to be recommended, a -mother might well be advised to be reckless about the amount of her milk -bill, provided always that the quantity of milk be not wasted, and that the -children have it." - - -MILK PORRIDGE.--Take a tablespoonful of oatmeal and mix it up in a cup with -a little cold milk till it is quite smooth, in a similar way as you would -mix ordinary flour and milk in making batter. Next put a pint of milk on -to boil, and as soon as it boils mix in the oatmeal and milk, and let it -boil for about a quarter of an hour, taking care to keep stirring it the -whole time. The fire should not be too fierce, as the milk is very apt to -burn. Flavour this with either salt or sugar. - - -RICE AND BARLEY PORRIDGE.--Take a quarter of a pound of rice and a quarter -of a pound of Scotch barley and wash them very thoroughly. The most -perfect way of washing barley and rice is to throw them into boiling water, -let them boil for five or ten minutes, and then strain them off. By this -means the dirty outside is dissolved. Next boil the rice and barley gently -for three or four hours, strain them off, and boil them up again in a -little milk for a short time before they are wanted. It will often be -found best to boil the barley for a couple of hours and then add the rice. -A little cream is a very great improvement. The porridge can be flavoured -with pepper and salt, but is very nice with brown sugar, treacle, or jam, -and when cold forms an agreeable accompaniment to stewed fruit. - - -WHOLE-MEAL PORRIDGE.--Boil a quart of water and gradually stir in about -half a pound of whole-meal; let it boil for about a quarter of an hour, and -serve. Cold milk should accompany this porridge. - - -LENTIL PORRIDGE.--To every quart of water add about six tablespoonfuls of -lentil flour; let the whole boil for about a quarter of an hour, and -flavour with pepper and salt. - - -HOMINY.--Take a teacupful of hominy, wash it in several waters and rub it -well between the hands, and throw away the grains that float on the top, -the same as you do with split peas, pour the water off the top, then strain -it off, and put it in a basin with a quart of water, and cover the basin -over with a cloth; put it by to soak overnight, should it be required for -breakfast in the morning. The next day put it in an enamelled stew-pan -with about a teaspoonful of salt, and let it simmer gently over the fire, -taking care that it does not burn. It is best to butter the bottom of the -saucepan, or if you have a small plate that will just go inside you will -find this a great protection. Let it simmer gently for rather more than an -hour. Stir it well up and flavour it with either sugar or salt, and let it -be eaten with cold milk poured on it on the plate, or with a little butter. - - * * * * * - -The hominy should simmer until it absorbs all the water in which it is -boiled. As a rule a good teacupful will absorb a quart. - - -HOMINY, FRIED.--This is made from the remains of cold boiled hominy. When -cold it will be a firm jelly. Cut the cold hominy into slices, flour them, -egg and bread-crumb them, and then plunge them into some smoking hot oil -till they are of a nice bright golden colour. They are very nice eaten -with lemon-juice and sugar, or they can be served with orange marmalade. - - -FRUMENTY.--Take a quarter of a pint of wheat, wash it thoroughly, and let -it soak for twelve hours or more in water. Strain it off and boil it in -some milk till it is tender, but do not let it get pulpy. As soon as it is -tender add a quart of milk, flavoured with a little cinnamon, three ounces -of sugar, three ounces of carefully washed grocer's currants, and let it -boil for a quarter of an hour. Beat up three yolks of eggs in a tureen, -and gradually add the mixture. It must not be added to the eggs in a -boiling state or else they will curdle. A wineglassful of brandy is a -great improvement, but is not absolutely necessary. The wheat takes a long -time to get tender, probably four hours. - - -SAGO PORRIDGE.--Wash the sago in cold water and boil it in some water, -allowing about two tablespoonfuls to every pint; add pepper and salt and -let cold milk be served with the porridge. - - -MILK TOAST.--This is a very useful way of using up stale bread. Toast the -bread a light brown, and if by chance any part gets black scrape it gently -off. Butter the toast slightly, lay the toast on the bottom of a -soup-plate, and pour some boiling milk over it. Very little butter should -be used, and children often prefer a thin layer of marmalade to butter. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -EGGS (SAVOURY) AND OMELETS. - - -EGGS, PLAIN BOILED.--There is an old saying that there is reason in the -roasting of eggs. This certainly applies equally to the more common -process of boiling them. There are few breakfast delicacies more popular -than a new-laid egg. There are few breakfast indelicacies more revolting -than the doubtful egg which makes its appearance from time to time, and -which may be classed under the general heading of "Shop 'uns." It is a sad -and melancholy reflection that these more than doubtful "shop 'uns" were -all _once_ new-laid. It is impossible to draw any hard-and-fast line to -say at what exact period an egg ceases to be fit for boiling. There is an -old tradition, the truth of which we do not endorse, that eggs may arrive -at a period when, though they are not fit to be boiled, fried, poached, or -hard-boiled, they are still good enough for puddings and pastry. There is -no doubt that many good puddings are spoilt because cooks imagine they can -use up doubtful eggs. - -When eggs are more than doubtful, they are often bought up by the smaller -pastry-cooks in cheap and poor neighbourhoods of our large towns, such as -the East-End of London. These eggs are called "spot eggs," and are sold at -thirty and forty a shilling. They utilise them as follows: They hold the -egg up in front of a bright gas-light, when the small black spot can be -clearly seen. This black spot is kept at the lowest point of the egg, -_i.e._, the egg is held so that this black spot is at the bottom. The -upper part of the egg is then broken and poured off, the black spot being -retained. The moment the smallest streak proceeds from this black spot the -pouring-off process is stopped. Of course, the black part is all thrown -away, the stench from it being almost intolerable, containing, as it does, -sulphuretted hydrogen. We mention the fact for what it is worth. It would -be a bold man who tried to lay down any law as to where waste ceases and -the use of wrongful material commences. Everything depends upon the -circumstances of the case in question. We fear there are many thousands, -hundreds of thousands, in this great city of London, whose everyday life -more or less compares with that of a shipwrecked crew. They "fain would -fill their belly with the husks that the swine do eat, but no man gives -unto them." There is this to be said in favour of vegetarian diet--that, -were it universal, grinding poverty would be banished from the earth. We -must not cry out too soon about using what some men call bad material. -Lord Byron, when he was starving after shipwreck, was glad to make a meal -off the paws of his favourite dog, which had been thrown away when the -carcase had been used on a former occasion. - -The simplest way of boiling eggs is to place them at starting in boiling -water, and boil them from three to three and a half to four minutes, -according to whether they are liked very lightly boiled, medium, or -well-set. - -The egg saucepan should be small, so that when the eggs are first plunged -in it takes the water off the boil for a few seconds, otherwise the eggs -are likely to crack. This applies more particularly to French eggs, which -have thin, brittle shells containing an excess of lime, probably due to the -large quantity of chalk which is the distinguishing feature of the soil in -the _Pas de Calais_, which is the chief neighbourhood from which French -eggs are imported. - -_Over a million_ eggs are imported from France to England every day, -notwithstanding the fact that thousands are kept awake by the crying of -their neighbours' fowls. - -There is a strange delusion among Londoners that an egg is not good if it -is milky. This, of course, is never met with in London, for the simple -reason that a milky egg means, as a rule, than it has not been laid more -than a few hours. For this reason eggs literally hot from the nest are not -suitable for making puddings or even omelets. Eggs that have been kept one -or two days will be found to answer better, as they possess more binding -properties. - -There is an old-fashioned idea that the best way to boil an egg is to place -it in the saucepan in cold water, to put the saucepan on the fire, and as -soon as the water boils the egg is done. A very little reflection will -show that this entirely depends upon the size of the saucepan and the -fierceness of the fire. If the saucepan were the size of the egg, the -water would boil before the egg was hot through; on the other hand, no one -could place an egg in the copper on this principle and then light the -copper fire. - -Eggs are best boiled in the dining-room on the fire, or in an ornamental -egg-boiler. By this means we get the eggs _hot_, an occurrence almost -unknown in large hotels and big establishments. - - -EGGS, TO BREAK.--Whenever you break eggs, never mind what quantity, always -break each egg separately into a cup first; see that it is good, and then -throw it into a basin with the rest. One bad egg would spoil fifty. -Supposing you have a dozen or two dozen new-laid eggs just taken from the -nest, it is not an uncommon thing to have one that has been overlooked for -weeks, and which may be a half-hatched mass of putrefaction. - - -EGGS, FRIED.--The first point is to have a clean frying-pan, which is an -article of kitchen furniture very rarely indeed met with in this country. -For frying eggs, and for making omelets, it is essential that the -frying-pan should never be used for other purposes. - -If you think _your_ frying-pan is perfectly clean, warm it in front of the -fire for half a minute, put a clean white cloth over the top of the finger, -and then rub the inside of the frying-pan. - -To fry eggs properly, very little butter will be required; a little -olive-oil will answer the same purpose. If you have too much "fat," the -white of the eggs are apt to develop into big bubbles or blisters. Another -point is, you do not want too fierce a fire. Fry them very slowly. Some -cooks will almost burn the bottom of the egg before the upper part is set. -As soon as the white is set round the edge, you will often find the yolk -not set at all, surrounded by a rim of semi-transparent "albumen." When -this is the case, it is very often a good plan to take the frying-pan off -the fire (we are presuming the stove is a shut-up one), and place it in the -oven for a minute or so, leaving the oven door open. By this means the -heat of the oven will set the upper part of the eggs, and there is no -danger of the bottom part being burnt. - -There is a great art in taking fried eggs out of a frying-pan and serving -them on a dish. Fried eggs, to look nice, should have the yolk in the -centre, surrounded by a ring of white, perfectly round, rather more than an -inch in breadth. - -Take an egg-slice in the left hand, slide it under each egg separately, so -that the yolk gets well into the middle of the slice. Now take a knife in -the right hand and trim off the superfluous white. By this means you will -be able to do it neatly. The part trimmed away is virtually refuse. Of -course, you do not throw away more than is necessary, but take care that -the white rim round the yolk is of uniform breadth. Most cooks take the -egg out with their right hand, and attempt to trim it with the left; the -result is about as neat as what would happen were you to attempt to write a -letter with your left hand in a hurry. - -Very often the appearance of fried eggs is improved by sprinkling over them -a few specks of chopped parsley. - -In placing fried eggs on toast, place the slice over the toast and draw the -slice away. Do not push the egg on; you may break it. - -EGGS, POACHED.--The best kitchen implement to use for poaching eggs is a -good large frying-pan. The mistake is to let the water boil; it should -only just simmer. You should avoid having the white of the egg set too -hard. We should endeavour to have the eggs look as white as possible. In -order to insure this, put a few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice into the -water, break the eggs separately into a clip, and then turn them very -gently into the hot water. When they are set fairly firm take them out -with an egg-slice, using the left hand as before, and trim them with the -right. It is not necessary, in poached eggs, to have a clear yolk -surrounded with a white uniform ring. Poached eggs often look best when -the yolk reposes in a sort of pillow-case of white. Before putting them on -toast or spinach, &c., be very careful to drain off the water; this is -particularly important when the water is acid, especially with vinegar. - -EGGS, HARD-BOILED.--Place the eggs in cold water, bring the water to -boiling point, and let them boil for ten minutes; if the hard-boiled eggs -are wanted hot, put them in cold water for half a minute, in order that you -may remove the shells without burning your fingers. If the eggs are -required cold, it is best not to remove the shells till just before they -are wanted; but if they have to be served cold, similar to what we meet -with at railway refreshment-rooms, let them be served cold, _whole_. If -you cut a hard-boiled egg the yolk very soon gets discoloured and brown -round the edge, shrivels up, and becomes most unappetising in appearance. - - -EGGS, CURRIED.--Take some hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves (remove the -half-yolks), and cut them into rings. Place all these rings round the edge -of the dish, and pile the white rings up to make a sort of border; pour -some thick curry sauce in the middle, place the half-yolks at equal -distances apart, on the white round the edge, and sprinkle a few specks of -green parsley round the edge on the whites; this will give the dish a -pretty appearance. - - -EGGS, DEVILLED.--Take, say, half a dozen eggs, boil them hard, remove the -shells while hot, cut them in halves, scoop out the yolk, and cut a tiny -piece off the bottom of each white cup, so that it will stand upright--a la -Columbus. Next take all the yolks, and put them in a basin, and pound them -with a little butter till you get a thick squash; add some cayenne pepper, -according to taste, a little white pepper, a little salt, and a few drops -of chilli-vinegar or ordinary vinegar; you can also add a little finely -chopped parsley--say a teaspoonful. Fill each cup with some of this -mixture, and as there will be more than enough to fill them, owing to the -butter, bring them to a point, like a cone. Devilled eggs are best served -cold, in which case they look best placed on a silver or ordinary dish, the -bottom of which is covered with green parsley; the white looks best on a -green bed. Some cooks chop up the little bits of white cut off from the -bottom of the cups, divide them into two portions, and colour one half pink -by shaking them in a saucer with a few drops of cochineal. These white and -pink specks are then sprinkled over the parsley. - -N.B.--In an ordinary way devilled eggs require anchovy sauce to be mixed -with the yolks, but anchovy sauce is not allowed in vegetarian cookery. - - -EGGS A LA BONNE FEMME.--Proceed exactly as in making devilled eggs, till -you place the yolks in the basin; then add to these yolks, while hot, a -little dissolved butter, and small pieces of chopped cold boiled carrot, -turnip, celery, and beet-root; season with white pepper and salt, and mix -well together. Add also a suspicion of nutmeg and a little lemon-juice. -Fill the cups with this while the mixture is moist, as when the butter gets -cold the mixture gets firm. If you use chopped beet-root as well as other -vegetables, it is best to fill half the cups with half the mixture before -any beetroot is added, then add the beet-root and stir the mixture well up -and it will turn a bright red. Now fill the remaining half of the cups, -and place them on the dish containing the parsley, alternately. The red -contrasts prettily with the light yellowish white of the first half. Do -not colour the white specks with cochineal, as this is a different shade of -red from the beet-root. You can chop up the white and sprinkle it over the -parsley with a little chopped beet-root as well. - - -EGGS A LA TRIPE.--Small Spanish onions are perhaps best for this dish, but -ordinary onions can be used. Cut the onions cross-ways after peeling them, -so that they fall in rings, and remove the white core. Two Spanish or half -a dozen ordinary onions will be sufficient. Fry these rings of onions in -butter till they are tender, without browning them. Take them out of the -frying-pan and put them aside. Add a spoonful of flour to the frying-pan, -and make a paste with the butter, and then add sufficient milk so that when -it is boiled and stirred up it makes a thick sauce; add pepper and salt, a -little lemon-juice, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Put back the -rings of onions into this, and let them simmer gently. Take half a dozen -hard-boiled eggs, cut the eggs in halves, remove the yolks, and cut the -whites into rings, like the onions, mixing these white egg-rings with the -onions and sauce; make the whole hot and serve on a dish, using the -hard-boiled half-yolks to garnish; sprinkle a little chopped parsley over -the whole, and serve. - - -EGG, FORCEMEAT OF, OR EGG BALLS.--Take three hard-boiled yolks of eggs, -powder them, mix in a raw yolk, add a little pepper and salt, a small -quantity of grated nutmeg, about a saltspoonful of finely chopped parsley, -chopped up with a pinch of savoury herbs, or a pinch of dust from bottled -savoury herbs, sifted from them, may be added instead. Roll these into -balls not bigger than a very small marble, flour them, and throw them into -boiling water till they are set. - -In many parts of the Continent, hard-boiled yolks of eggs, served whole, -are used as egg balls. A much cheaper way of making egg balls is as -follows:--Beat up one egg, add a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley, -some pepper and salt, and a very little grated nutmeg. Sift a bottle of -ordinary mixed savoury herbs in a sieve, and take about half a saltspoonful -of the dust and mix this with the egg, This will be found really better -than using the herbs themselves. Now make some very fine bread-crumbs from -_stale_ bread, and mix this with the beaten-up egg till you make a sort of -soft paste or dough; roll this into balls the size of a marble, flour them, -and throw them into boiling water. The balls must be small or they will -split in boiling. - - -EGGS AU GRATIN.--Make about half a pint of butter sauce, make it hot over -the fire, and stir in about two ounces of Parmesan cheese, a quarter of a -nutmeg grated, some white pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Make this -hot, and then add the yolks of four eggs. Stir it all up, and keep -stirring very quickly till the mixture begins to thicken, when you must -instantly remove it from the fire, but continue stirring for another -minute. In the meantime have ready some hard-boiled eggs, cut these into -slices, and make a circle of the bigger slices on a dish; then spread a -layer of the mixture over the slices of egg, and place another layer on -this smaller than the one below, then another layer of mixture, and so on -with alternate layers till you pile it up in the shape of a pyramid. -Spread a layer of the remainder of the mixture over the surface, and -sprinkle some powdered light-coloured bread-raspings mixed with some grated -Parmesan cheese over the whole; place the dish in the oven to get hot and -to slightly brown, and then serve. Some fried bread cut into pretty shapes -can be used to ornament the base. - - -EGGS AND SPINACH.--Make a thick puree of spinach; take some hard-boiled -eggs, cut them in halves while hot, after removing the shells, and press -each half a little way into the puree, so that the yellow yolk will be -shown surrounded by the white ring. Be very careful not to smear the edge -with the spinach. - -N.B.--Sometimes eggs are poached and laid on the spinach whole. - - -EGGS AND TURNIP-TOPS.--Proceed exactly as above, using a puree of -turnip-tops instead of spinach. - - -EGGS AND ASPARAGUS.--Have ready some of the green parts of asparagus, -boiled tender, and cut up into little pieces an eighth of an inch long so -that they look like peas. Beat up four eggs very thoroughly with some -pepper and salt, and mix in the asparagus, only do not break the pieces of -green. Melt a couple of ounces of butter in a small stew-pan, and as soon -as it commences to froth pour in the beaten-up egg and asparagus; stir the -mixture quickly over the fire, being careful to scrape the bottom of the -saucepan. As soon as the mixture thickens pour it on some hot toast, and -serve. - - -EGGS AND CELERY.--Have ready some stewed celery on toast. (_See_ CELERY, -STEWED.) Poach some eggs and place them on the top. Hard-boiled eggs, cut -into slices, can be added to the celery instead of poached eggs. - -When stewed celery is served as a course by itself, the addition of the -eggs and plenty of bread make it a wholesome and satisfying meal. - - -EGG SALAD.--(_See_ SALADS.) - - -EGG SANDWICHES.--(_See_ SANDWICHES.) - - -EGG SAUCE.--(_See_ SAUCES.) - - -EGG TOAST.--Beat up a couple of eggs, melt an ounce of butter in a -saucepan, and add to it a little pepper and salt. As soon as the butter -begins to froth, add the beaten-up egg and stir the mixture very quickly, -and the moment it begins to thicken pour it over a slice of hot buttered -toast. - -EGGS A LA DAUPHINE.--Take ten hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves and -remove the yolks, and place the yolks in a basin with a piece of new bread, -about as big as the fist, that has been soaked in some milk, or better -still, cream; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a quarter of a grated -nutmeg, and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; rub the whole well -together, and then add two whole eggs, well beaten up, to the mixture to -moisten it. Next fill all these white cups of eggs with some of this -mixture, place the eggs well together, and spread a thin layer of the -mixture over the top; then take a smaller number of half-eggs, filled, and -place on the top and make a pyramid, so that a single half-egg is at the -top. You can place ten half-eggs at the bottom in one layer, six half-eggs -on the top of these, spreading a thin layer of the mixture, then three -half-eggs, one more layer of the mixture, and then one half-egg at the -summit. This dish is sometimes ornamented by forcing hard-boiled yolks of -eggs through a wire sieve. It falls like yellow vermicelli into threads. -This dish should be placed in the oven, to be made quite hot, and some kind -of white sauce should be poured round the edge. - - -EGGS AND BLACK BUTTER.--Fry some eggs, serve them up on a hot dish, and -pour some black butter round the base. (_See_ BLACK BUTTER SAUCE.) - - -EGGS AND GARLIC.--This is better adapted for an Italian than an English -palate. Take half a dozen heads of garlic and fry them in a little butter -in order to remove the rankness of flavour. Take them out and pound them -in a mortar with rather more than a tablespoonful of oil; heat this on the -fire in a stew-pan, after adding some pepper and salt. Beat up an egg, and -stir this in with the oil and garlic till the mixture gets thick. Arrange -some slices of hard-boiled eggs--four eggs would be sufficient--pour this -mixture in the centre, and serve. - - -EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS.--Take half a pint of button mushrooms and, if fresh, -peel them and throw them instantly into water made acid with lemon-juice, -in order that they may not turn a bad colour. In the meantime slice up a -good-sized Spanish onion, and fry the onion in a little butter. As soon as -the onion is a little tender, chop up and add the mushrooms. Put all this -into a stew-pan with a little butter sauce, or a little water can be added -and then thickened with a little butter and flour. Let this simmer gently -for nearly half an hour, add a little made mustard, pepper and salt and a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. Before sending to table add half a dozen -hard-boiled eggs; the whites should be cut into rings, and should be only -put into the sauce long enough to get hot; the yolks should be kept -separate, but must be warmed up in the sauce. - - -EGGS AND ONIONS.--Cut up a large Spanish onion in slices, and fry it in -some butter till it is a light brown and tender, but do not let it burn; -drain off the butter and put the fried onion on a dish; sprinkle some -cayenne pepper and a little salt over the onions, and squeeze the juice of -a whole lemon over them. Now poach some eggs and serve them on the top of -the onion. - - -EGGS AND POTATOES.--Take the remains of some floury potatoes, beat up an -egg, and mix the potato flour with the egg. You can also chop up very -finely a small quantity of onion and parsley, and season with plenty of -pepper and salt. The respective quantities of floury potatoes and beaten -egg must be so regulated that you can roll the mixture into balls without -their having any tendency to break. Make the balls big enough so that when -you press them between the hands you can squeeze the ball into the shape of -an ordinary egg, or you can mould them into this shape with a tablespoon. -Now flour these imitation eggs in order to dry the surface, and then dip -them into well-beaten-up egg and cover them with dried bread-crumbs, and -fry them in a little butter or oil, or brown them in the oven, occasionally -basting them with a little butter. - - -EGGS AND SAUCE ROBERT.--Take some hard-boiled eggs, cut them into quarters, -and make them hot in some Sauce Robert--(_see_ ROBERT SAUCE)--and serve -with fried or toasted bread in a dish. - - -EGGS AND SORREL.--Make a thick puree of sorrel--(_see_ SORREL SAUCE)--and -serve some hard-boiled or poached eggs on the top. - - -EGGS, BROILED.--Cut a large slice of crumb of bread off a big loaf; toast -it lightly, put some pieces of butter on it, and put it on a dish in front -of the fire; then break some eggs carefully on to the toast, and let them -set from the heat of the fire like a joint roasting; when the side nearest -the fire gets set, it will be necessary to turn the dish round. When the -whole has set, squeeze the juice of an orange over the eggs, and a little -grated nutmeg may be added. The eggs and toast should be served in the -same dish in which they are baked. - - -EGGS, BUTTERED.--Break some eggs into a flat dish, then take a little -butter and make it hot in a frying-pan till it frizzles and begins to turn -brown. Now pour this very hot butter, which is hotter than boiling water, -over the eggs in the dish. Put the dish in the oven a short time, and -finish off setting the yolks with a red-hot salamander. - - -EGGS, SCRAMBLED.--Scrambled eggs, when finished properly, should have the -appearance of yellow and white streaks, distinct in colour, but yet all -joined together in one mass. Melt a little butter in the frying-pan, break -in some eggs, as if for frying; of course, the whites begin to set before -the yolks. As soon as the whites are nearly but not quite set, stir the -whole together till the whole mass sets. By this means you will get yellow -and white streaks joined together. It is very important that you don't let -the eggs get brown at the bottom; you will therefore require a perfectly -clean frying-pan and not too fierce a fire. - - -EGGS IN SUNSHINE.--This is a name given to fried eggs with tomato served on -the top. You want a dish that will stand the heat; consequently, take an -oval baking-tin, or enamelled dish that you can put on the top of a shut-up -stove. Melt a little butter in this, and as soon as it begins to frizzle -break some eggs into the dish, and let them all set together. As soon as -they are set, pour four or five tablespoonfuls of tomato conserve on the -top; this is much better than tomato sauce, which contains vinegar. Or you -can bake half a dozen ripe tomatoes in a tin in the oven, and place these -on the top instead of the tomato conserve. - - -EGGS AND CUCUMBER.--Peel and slice up two or three little cucumbers of the -size generally sold on a barrow at a penny each. Put these with two or -three ounces of butter in a stew-pan, and three small onions about the size -of the top of the thumb, chopped very fine; fry these and add a -dessertspoonful of vinegar. When the cucumber is tender, and a little time -has been allowed for the vinegar to evaporate, add six hard-boiled eggs, -cut into slices; make these very hot and serve. Pepper and salt must be -added. - - -EGGS WITH CHEESE.--Take a quarter of a pound of grated cheese (the cheese -should be dry and white), melt this cheese gently in a stew-pan over the -fire, with a little bit of butter about as big as the thumb, in order to -assist the cheese in melting. Mix with it a brimming teaspoonful of -chopped parsley, two or three tiny spring onions, chopped very fine, and -about a quarter of a small grated nutmeg. When the cheese is melted, add -six beaten-up eggs, and stir the whole together till they are set. Fried -or toasted bread should be served round the edge of the dish. - - -LITTLE EGGS FOR GARNISHING.--This is a nice dish when you require a lot of -white of eggs for other purposes, such as iceing a wedding-cake, or making -light vanilla or almond biscuits. - -Take six hard-boiled yolks, powder them, flavour with a little pepper and -salt, and mix in three raw yolks; mix this well together, and roll them -into shapes like very small sausages, pointed at each end like a foreign -cigar. Flour these on the outside, and throw them into boiling water. -These can be used for garnishing purposes for the vast majority of -vegetarian dishes. They can be flavoured if wished with grated nutmeg, -chopped parsley, and a few savoury herbs. - - -OMELETS.--It is a strange fact, but not the less true, that to get a -well-made omelet in a private house in this country is the exception and -not the rule. A few general remarks on making omelets will, we hope, not -be out of place in writing a book on an exceptional style of cookery, in -which omelets should play a most important part. - -First of all, we require an omelet-pan, and for this purpose the cheaper -the frying-pan the better. The best omelet-pan of all is a copper one, -tinned inside. Copper conveys heat quicker than almost any other metal; -consequently, if we use an ordinary frying-pan, the thinner it is the -quicker will heat be conveyed. - -It is very essential that the frying-pan be absolutely clean, and it will -be found almost essential to reserve the omelet-pan for omelets only. A -frying-pan that has cooked meat should not be used for the purpose; and -although in vegetarian cookery a frying-pan has not been used in this -manner, we should still avoid one in which onions or vegetables, or even -black butter has been made. The inside of an omelet-pan should always look -as if it had only just left the ironmonger's shop. - -The next great question is, how much butter should be allowed for, say, six -eggs? On this point the greatest authorities differ. We will first quote -our authorities, and then attempt to give an explanation that reconciles -the difference. A plain omelet may be roughly described as settings of -eggs well beaten up by stirring them up in hot butter. One of the oldest -cookery books we can call to mind is entitled "The Experienced English -Housekeeper," by Elizabeth Raffald. The book, which was published in 1775, -is dedicated to the Hon. Lady Elizabeth Warburton, whom the authoress -formerly served. as housekeeper. The recipe is entitled "To make an -amulet." The book states, "Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a -frying-pan, break six eggs"; Francatelli also gives four ounces of butter -to six eggs. - -On the other hand, Soyer, the great cook, gives two ounces of butter to six -eggs; so also does the equally great Louis Eustache Ude, cook to Louis XVI. - -We may add that "Cassell's Dictionary of Cookery" recommended two ounces of -butter to six eggs, whilst "Cassell's Shilling Cookery" recommends four -eggs. - -The probable reason why two such undoubtedly great authorities as Soyer and -Francatelli should differ is that in making one kind of omelet you would -use less butter than in making another. Francatelli wrote for what may be -described as that "high class cooking suited for Pall Mall clubs," where no -one better than himself knew how best to raise the jaded appetite of a -wealthy epicure. Soyer's book was written for the people. - -There are two kinds of omelets, one in which the egg is scarcely beaten at -all, and in which, when cooked, the egg appears set in long streaks. There -is also the richer omelet, which is sent to table more resembling a light -pudding. For the former of these omelets, two ounces of butter will -suffice for six eggs; for the latter of these you will require four ounces -of butter, or else the omelet will be leathery. In Holland, Belgium, and -Germany, and in country villages in France, the omelet is made, as a rule, -with six eggs to two ounces of butter. It comes up like eggs that have -been set. In the higher-class restaurants in Paris, like Bignon's, or the -Cafe Anglais, the omelet is lighter, and probably about four ounces of -butter would be used to six eggs. - -This probably explains the different directions given in various cookery -books for making omelets. - - -OMELET, PLAIN.--Melt _four_ ounces of butter in a frying-pan, heat up six -eggs _till they froth_; add a little pepper and salt, pour the beaten-up -eggs into the frying-pan as soon as the butter begins to frizzle, and with -a tablespoon keep scraping the bottom of the frying-pan in every part, not -forgetting the edge. Gradually the mixture becomes lumpy; still go on -scraping till about two-thirds or more are lumpy and the rest liquid. Now -slacken the heat slightly by lifting the frying-pan from the fire, and push -the omelet into half the frying-pan so that it is in the shape of a -semicircle. By this time, probably, it will be nearly set. Take the -frying-pan off the fire, and hold it in a slanting direction in front of -the fire. When the whole is set, as it will quickly do, slide off the -omelet from the frying-pan on to a hot dish with an egg-slice, and serve. - - -OMELET, PLAIN (ANOTHER WAY).--Put _two_ ounces of butter into a frying-pan, -break six eggs into a basin with a little pepper and salt, _and beat them -very slightly_, so that the yolks and whites are quite mixed into one, but -do not beat them more than you can help, and _do not let the eggs froth_. -As soon as the butter frizzles, pour in the beaten eggs, scrape the -frying-pan quickly with a spoon in every part till the mixture gets lumpy. -Now slacken the heat if the fire is fierce, and let the mixture set in the -frying-pan like a pancake. As soon as it is nearly set, with perhaps only -a dessertspoonful of liquid left unset, turn the omelet over, one half on -to the other half, in the shape of a semicircle, and bring the spoonful of -unset fluid to join them over the edge. Slide off the omelet on to a hot -dish with an egg-slice. - - -OMELET WITH FINE HERBS.--Chop up a dessertspoonful of parsley, and add a -good pinch of powdered savoury herbs, add these with pepper and salt to the -six beaten-up eggs in a basin. Beat up the eggs, either slightly or very -thoroughly, according to whether you use two ounces of butter or four. -Proceed in every respect, in making the omelet, as directed for plain -omelet above. - - -OMELET WITH ONION.--Proceed exactly as in the above recipe, only adding to -the chopped parsley a piece of onion or shallot about as big as the top of -the thumb down to the first joint, also very finely chopped. When onion is -used in making an omelet a little extra pepper should be added. - - -OMELET WITH CHEESE.--Proceed as if making an ordinary omelet, with four -ounces of butter. Add to the six well beaten-up eggs about four ounces of -grated Parmesan cheese; a small quantity of cream will be found a great -improvement to this omelet. A little pepper and salt must, of course, be -added as well. - - -POTATO OMELET.--Mix three ounces of a floury potato with six eggs, a little -pepper and salt, and half a pint of milk, and make the milk boil and then -stand for a couple of minutes before it is mixed with the eggs; pour this -mixture into three or four ounces of butter, and proceed as in making an -ordinary omelet. - - -POTATO OMELET, SWEET.--Proceed exactly as above, only instead of adding -pepper and salt mix in a brimming tablespoonful of finely powdered sugar, -the juice of a lemon, with half a grated nutmeg. - - -CHEESE SOUFFLE.--To make a small cheese souffle in a round cake-tin, -proceed as follows:--Make the tin very hot in the oven. Put in about an -ounce of butter, so as to make the tin oily in every part inside. The tin -must be tilted so that the butter pours round the sides of the tin as well -as the bottom. Take two eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, and beat -the whites to a stiff froth; beat up the two yolks very thoroughly with a -quarter of a pint of milk. Add to this two tablespoonfuls of grated -Parmesan cheese; add this mixture to the beaten-up whites, and mix the -whole carefully together. Now pour this mixture into the hot buttered tin, -which should be five or six inches deep, and bake it in the oven. The -mixture will rise to five or six times its original depth. As soon as it -is done, run with the souffle from the oven door to the dining-room door. -However quick you may be, the souffle will probably sink an inch on the -way. Some cooks wrap hot flannel on the outside of the tin to keep up the -heat. If you have a folded dinner napkin round the tin for appearance -sake, as is usually the case, fold the napkin before you make the souffle, -and make the napkin sufficiently big round that it can be dropped over the -tin in an instant. The napkin should be pinned, and be quite half an inch -in diameter bigger than the width of the tin. This is to save time. Delay -in serving the souffle is fatal. - - -OMELET SOUFFLE, SWEET.--In making an omelet souffle, sweet, you can proceed -in exactly the same manner as making a cheese souffle, with the exception -that you add two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar instead of two -tablespoonfuls of grated cheese. The omelet will, however, require -flavouring of some kind, the two most delicate being vanilla and -orange-flower water. You can flavour it with lemon by rubbing a few lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon, and then pounding this with the -powdered sugar. It must be pounded very thoroughly and mixed very -carefully, or else one part of the omelet will taste stronger of lemon than -the other. Some powdered sugar should be shaken over the top of the -souffle just before serving. - - -OMELET SOUFFLE (ANOTHER WAY).--When a souffle is made on a larger scale, -and served up on a flat dish, it is best to proceed as follows:--Take six -ounces of powdered sugar, and mix them with six yolks of eggs and a -dessertspoonful of flour and a pinch of salt. To this must be added -whatever flavouring is used, such as vanilla. This is all mixed together -till it is perfectly smooth. Next beat the six whites to a very stiff -froth; mix this in with the batter lightly, put two ounces of butter into -an omelet-pan, and as soon as the butter begins to frizzle pour in the -mixture. As it begins to set round the edges, turn it over and heap it up -in the middle, and then slide the omelet off on to a plated-edged baking -dish, which must be well buttered. Put it in the oven for about a quarter -of an hour, to let it rise, shake some powdered sugar over the top, and -serve very quickly. - - -OMELET, SWEET.--Make an ordinary plain omelet with six eggs and either two -or four ounces of butter, as directed for making omelet, plain. Instead of -adding pepper and salt to the beaten-up eggs, add one or two tablespoonfuls -of finely powdered sugar. At the last moment, sprinkle a little powdered -sugar over the omelet, and just glaze the sugar with a red-hot salamander. - - -OMELET WITH JAM.--Make a plain sweet omelet as directed above, adding -rather less sugar--about half. If you make the omelet with two ounces of -butter, and turn it over, put a couple of tablespoonfuls of jam on the -omelet, and turn the half over the jam. It is best to put the jam in the -oven for a minute or two to take the chill off. - -If you make the omelet with four ounces of butter, you must put the jam by -the side of the omelet and let the thin part of the omelet cover it. Of -course, the question what jam is best for sweet omelet is purely a matter -of taste. Most good judges consider that apricot jam is the best, and if -the sweet omelet itself be flavoured with a little essence of vanilla, the -result is generally considered one of the nicest sweets that can be sent to -table. Strawberry jam, especially if some of the strawberries are whole, -is also very nice. The objection to raspberry jam is the pips. - -A most delicious omelet can be made by chopping up some preserved slices of -pine-apple, and placing this in the omelet, and making the pine-apple syrup -hot and pouring it round the base. Red-currant jelly, black-currant jam, -and plum jam can all be used. One of the cheapest and, in the opinion of -many, the best sweet omelets can be made with six eggs, two ounces of -butter, and three or four tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade. In this case -it will cost no more to rub a few lumps of sugar on the outside of an -orange, and pound these with the powdered sugar you use to sweeten the -omelet. If the marmalade is liquid, as it often is, one or two -tablespoonfuls of the juice can be poured round the edge of the omelet. - - -OMELET AU RHUM.--As a rule, spirits are not allowed in vegetarian cookery. -An omelet au rhum is simply a sweet omelet, plain, with plenty of powdered -sugar sprinkled over the top, with some rum ignited poured over it just -before it is sent to table. The way to ignite the rum is to fill a large -spoon, like a gravy-spoon, and hold a lighted wooden taper (not wax; it -tastes) underneath the spoon till the rum lights. The dish should be hot. -It may be a consolation to teetotallers to reflect that the fact of burning -the rum causes all the alcohol to evaporate, and there is nothing left but -the flavour. - - -OMELET AU KIRSCH.--Proceed as above, substituting Kirschenwasser for Rum. - - -OMELET, VEGETABLE.--A plain omelet can also be served with any puree of -vegetables, so that we can have--Asparagus Omelet, Artichoke Omelet, French -Bean Omelet, Celery Omelet, Spinach Omelet, Mushroom Omelet, Tomato Omelet, -&c. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -SALADS AND SANDWICHES. - - -SALADS AND SANDWICHES.--Probably the most patriotic Englishman will admit -that, on the subject of salads, we can learn something from the French. -During the last half-century a great improvement has taken place on this -point in this country. Many years ago it was the fashion to dress an -English lettuce, resembling in shape an old umbrella, with a mixture of -brown sugar, milk, mustard, and even anchovy and Worcester sauce, and then -add a few drops of oil, as if it were some dangerous poison, like prussic -acid, not to be tampered with lightly. The old-fashioned lettuces were so -hard and crisp that it was difficult to chew them without making a noise -somewhat similar to walking on a shingly beach. In modern days, however, -we have arrived at a stage of civilisation in which, as a rule, we use soft -French lettuces instead of the hard gingham-shaped vegetables which somehow -or other our grandfathers ate for supper with a whole lobster, seasoned -with about half a pint of vinegar, and then slept none the worse for the -performance. The first point for consideration, if we wish to have a good -salad, is to have the lettuces crisp and dry. Old-fashioned French -cookery-books direct that the lettuce should never be washed. The stalks -should be cut off, the outside leaves removed and thrown away, and the -lettuce itself should then be pulled in pieces with the fingers, and each -piece wiped with a clean cloth. This is not always practicable, but the -principle remains the same. You can wash the lettuce leaves without -bruising them. You can dry them by shaking them up lightly in a large -clean cloth, and you can spread them out and let them get _dry_ an hour or -two before they are dressed. - -Another important point to be borne in mind is that a salad should never be -dressed till just before it is wanted to be eaten. If by chance you put by -the remains of a dressed salad, it is good for nothing the next morning. -Finally, the oil must be pure olive oil of the best quality, and to ensure -this it should bear the name of some well-known firm. A good deal of the -oil sold simply as salad oil, bearing no name, is adulterated, sometimes -with cotton-seed oil. - - -SALAD, FRENCH LETTUCE, PLAIN.--Clean one or more French lettuces (throw -away all the leaves that are decayed or bruised), place these in a -salad-bowl, and, supposing we have sufficient for two persons, dress the -salad as follows:--Put a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of -pepper into a tablespoon. Fill the tablespoon up with oil, stir the pepper -and salt up with a fork, and pour it over the lettuce. Now add another -tablespoonful of oil, and then toss the lettuce leaves lightly together -with a spoon and fork. Allow one tablespoonful of oil to each person. -This salad would suffice for two. Be sure and mix the lettuce and oil well -together before you add any vinegar. The reason of this is that if you add -the vinegar first it would soak into the lettuce leaves, making one part -more acid than another. Having well mixed up the lettuce and oil, add half -a tablespoonful of vinegar. Mix it once more, and the salad is dressed. - -In France they always add to the lettuce, before it is dressed, two or -three finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves. Dried tarragon can be used, -but it is not equal to fresh. If you have no tarragon it is a great -improvement to use tarragon vinegar instead of ordinary vinegar. Tarragon -vinegar is sold by all grocers at sixpence per bottle. - -It is also often customary to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or -rub a piece of crust of bread with garlic, and toss this piece of crust up -with the salad after it has been dressed. Garlic should never be chopped -up, but only used as stated above. - -A good French salad is also always decorated with one or more hard-boiled -eggs, cut into quarters, longways. These are placed on the top of the -lettuce. - - -SALAD, ENGLISH, LETTUCE.--The ordinary English salad is made either with -French or English lettuces, and is generally dressed as follows:--One or -two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk, a teaspoonful of made mustard, two -tablespoonfuls of vinegar, pepper, and salt. There are many people still -living in remote parts of the country who prefer this style of dressing. - - -SALAD, ENGLISH, MIXED.--The old-fashioned English _mixed_ salad generally -consisted of English lettuce cut up into strips crossways, to which was -added mustard and cress, boiled beetroot, chopped celery, spring onions, -radishes, and watercress. It is by no means a bad mixture when dressed -with oil, and, of course, it can be dressed it a l'Anglaise. It makes an -excellent accompaniment to a huge hunk of cheese, a crusty loaf, a good -appetite, and a better digestion. - - -SALAD, MAYONNAISE.--This is generally considered the king of salads, and it -can be made an exceedingly pretty-looking dish, Take two or more French -lettuces, clean and dry them as directed above, and take the small heart of -one lettuce about the size of a small walnut, uncut from the stalk, so that -you can stand it upright in the middle of the salad, raised above the -surface. Arrange all the softer parts of the leaves on the top of the -salad so as to make as much as possible a smooth surface. Make some -Mayonnaise sauce, thick enough to be spread like butter, and mask this -little mound and all the surface of the middle of the salad round it with a -thin layer of the sauce, so that it looks like the top of a mould of solid -custard. Ornament the edge of the salad with hard-boiled eggs cut in -quarters, and place between the quarters slices of pickled gherkins and -stoned olives. Take a small teaspoonful of French capers, dry them on a -cloth, and sprinkle a few of them about an inch apart on the white surface. -Next chop up, very finely, about half a teaspoonful of parsley, and see -that this doesn't stick together in lumps. Place this on the end of a -knife and flip the knife so that the little green specks of parsley fall on -the white surface. Next take about half a saltspoonful of finely crumbled -bread, and shake these in a saucer with one or two drops of cochineal. -This will colour them a bright red, and they will have all the appearance -of lobster-coral. Place these red bread-crumbs on the end of a knife and -let them fall over the white surface like the parsley. The little red and -green specks on the white background make the dish look exceedingly pretty. -Before mixing the salad all together add a tablespoonful of tarragon -vinegar or lemon-juice. - - -TOMATO SALAD.--For making tomato salad you require red, ripe tomatoes; the -smoother they are the better, but the chief points are--very ripe and very -red. Never use those pink, crinkly tomatoes which look something like milk -stained with plum juice. If tomatoes are picked unripe, and then allowed -to ripen afterwards, they become rotten and worthless. Slice up half a -dozen or more tomatoes--sometimes it will be necessary to remove the core -and pips, sometimes not; add a little oil, a little vinegar, and some -pepper and salt. Tomato salad is one of the few that are very nice without -any oil at all. Of course, this is a matter of taste. Some persons slice -up a few onions and add to the tomatoes. In addition to this you can add -some slices of cold potatoes. In this latter case, heap the potatoes up in -the middle of the dish in the shape of a dome sprinkle some chopped parsley -over the potatoes, put a border of sliced onion round the base, and then a -border of sliced tomato outside that. This makes the dish look pretty. - -Many persons rub the dish or salad-bowl with a bead of garlic. This is -quite sufficient to flavour the salad; but never _chop_ garlic for salads. - - -EGG SALAD.--Egg salad consists of an ordinary salad made with French -lettuces, with an extra quantity of hard-boiled eggs. If you want to make -the salad look very pretty on the top, cut up the lettuces and dress them -with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. Make the tops of the lettuces -(which should be placed in a round salad-bowl) as smooth as you can without -pressing them down unnecessarily. Now take six hard-boiled eggs, separate -the yolks from the whites, powder the yolks, and chop up the whites small. -Sprinkle a ring of yellow round the edge of the salad-bowl, say an inch in -width, then put a ring of white round, and place the remainder of yolk in -the middle, almost up to the centre. Have the centre about two inches in -diameter. We now have a yellow centre surrounded by a broad white rim (as, -of course, there is more white than yellow), and an outside yellow ring, -which meets the white china bowl. Reserve about a teaspoonful of pieces of -finely chopped white, and put them in a saucer, with a few drops of -cochineal, and shake them. This turns them a bright red. Sprinkle these -red specks _very sparingly_ on the white, and take about half a teaspoonful -of chopped blanched parsley, and sprinkle these green specks on the yellow. -This makes the dish look pretty. - - -GERMAN SALAD.--German salad is made from cold boiled vegetables chopped up. -In Germany, it is made, according to English ideas, from every vegetable -you have ever heard of, mixed with a number of vegetables you have never -heard of. In England it can be made by chopping up boiled carrot, turnip, -cabbage, cauliflower, potato, French beans, Brussels sprouts (whole), -celery, raw onion, raw apple, &c. In fact, in making this vegetable salad -the motto should be "the more the merrier." In addition to this you will -find that they add what is known as _sauer kraut_. This latter is not -adapted, as a rule, to English palates. The salad is mixed with oil and -vinegar in the ordinary way, the Germans adding much more vinegar than we -should care for in this country. The salad is decorated at the finish with -boiled beet-root. It is very pretty to cut the beet-root into triangles, -the base of the triangle touching the edge of the salad-bowl, the point of -the triangle pointing inwards. Gut a star out of a good slice of -beet-root, and place it in the centre of the bowl; sprinkle a little -chopped blanched parsley over the surface of the mixed vegetables. - - -ENDIVE SALAD.--Endives come into season long before lettuces, and are much -used abroad for making salads. The drawback to endive is that it is tough, -and the simple remedy is to boil it. Take three or four white-heart -endives, throw them into boiling water slightly salted. When they get -tender take them out and instantly throw them into cold water, by which -means you preserve their colour. When quite cold, take them out again, -drain them, dry them thoroughly, and pull them to pieces with the fingers. -Now place them in a salad-bowl, keeping the whitest part as much as -possible at the top. Place some hard-boiled eggs round the edge, and -sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the white endive. You can, -if you like, put a few spikes of red beet-root between the quarters of -eggs. - -It is a great improvement to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or -you can rub a crust of bread with a bead of garlic, and toss this lightly -about in the salad when you mix it. - - -SALSIFY SALAD.--Boiled salsify makes a very delicious salad. Take some -white salsify, scrape it, and instantly throw it into vinegar and water, by -which means you will keep it a pure white. Then, when you have all ready, -throw it into boiling water, slightly salted, boil it till it is tender, -throw it into cold water, and when cold take it out, drain it and dry it, -cut it up into small half-inch pieces (or put it in whole, in sticks, into -a salad-bowl), sprinkle a little chopped blanched parsley over the top, -dress in the ordinary way with oil and white French vinegar, and be sure to -use white pepper, not black, if white wine vinegar is objected to, the -juice of a hard fresh lemon is equally good, if not better. - - -POTATO SALAD.--Potato salad is generally made from the remains of cold -boiled potatoes. Of course, potatoes can be boiled on purpose, in which -case they should be allowed to get cold in the water in which they were -boiled. New potatoes are far better for the purpose than old. Cut the -potatoes into slices, and place them in a salad-bowl with a little finely -chopped blanched parsley. You can also add some finely chopped onion or -shallot. If you do not add these you can rub the bowl with a bead of -garlic. Sprinkle some more chopped parsley over the top of the salad and -ornament the edge of the bowl with some thin slices of pickled gherkins. A -few stoned olives can also be added. Dress the salad with oil and vinegar -in the ordinary way. - - -ASPARAGUS SALAD.--Cold asparagus makes a most delicious salad. It is -needless, perhaps, to say it is made from cold boiled asparagus. The best -dressing for asparagus salad is somewhat peculiar, and is made as -follows:--Take, say, an ounce of butter, put it in a saucer, and melt it in -the oven till it is like oil. Now mix in a teaspoonful of made mustard, -some pepper, salt, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar. Stir it all together, -and as it gets cold it will begin to get thick. Dip all the green part of -the asparagus in this, and lay the heads gently, without breaking them, in -a vegetable dish, with the white stalk resting on the edge of the dish, and -the green part in the middle. Let the salad get perfectly cold, and then -serve. Of course, the sauce clings to the asparagus. The asparagus is -eaten with the fingers like hot asparagus--a custom now generally -recognised. - - -ARTICHOKE SALAD.--This applies to French artichokes, not Jerusalem. In -France, artichokes are often served raw for breakfast, on a plate, with a -little heap of chopped raw onion and another heap of chopped capers or -parsley. The Frenchman mixes a little oil or vinegar on his plate, adding -the onion, &c., according to his taste. The leaves are pulled off one by -one, the white stalk part dipped in this dressing, and then eaten, by being -drawn through the teeth. The artichoke bottom is reserved for the finish -as a _bon bouche_, something like a schoolboy who will eat all the pastry -round a jam tart, leaving the centre for the _finale_. - - -BEET-ROOT SALAD.--In boiling beet-roots be careful not to break them, or -else they will bleed and lose their colour. When the beet-root is boiled -and cold, peel it, and cut it into thin slices. It can be dressed with oil -and vinegar, or vinegar only, adding pepper and salt. Some persons dress -beet-root with a salad-dressing in which cream is used instead of oil; but -never use cream _and_ oil. To mix cream and oil is like mixing bacon with -butter. - - -CUCUMBER SALAD.--Peel a cucumber and cut it into slices as thin as -possible. We might almost add, thinner if possible. Mix it with a little -salt, and let it stand, tossing the cucumber about every now and then. By -this means you extract all the water from the cucumber. Drain off this -water, and add plenty of oil to the cucumber, and then mix it so that every -slice comes in contact with the oil. Now add a little pepper, and a very -little vinegar, and mix it thoroughly. If you add vinegar to cucumber -before the oil some of the slices will taste like sour pickle, as the -vinegar soaks into the cucumber. Cucumber should be always served very -cold, and is best placed in an ice-chest for an hour before serving. Some -people put a piece of ice on the top of the cucumber. - - -FRENCH BEAN SALAD.--Cold boiled French beans make a very nice salad. A -little chopped parsley should be mixed with them, and the salad-bowl can be -rubbed with a bead of garlic. Some people soak the beans in vinegar first, -and then add oil. This would suit a German palate. A better plan is to -add the oil first, with pepper and salt, mix all well together, and then -add the vinegar. - - -BEAN SALAD.--Cold boiled broad beans make a very nice salad. Rub off the -skins so that only the green part is put in the salad-bowl. Rub the bowl -with garlic, add a little chopped parsley, then oil, pepper and salt, mix -well, and add vinegar last of all. - - -HARICOT BEAN SALAD.--This can be made from cold, boiled, dried white -haricot beans. Add plenty of chopped parsley, rub the bowl with garlic, -mix oil, pepper and salt first, vinegar afterwards. - - * * * * * - -The nicest haricot bean salad is made from the fresh green beans met with -abroad. They can be obtained in this country in tins, and a delicious -salad can be had at a moment's notice by opening a tin, straining off the -liquor, and drying the little green beans, which are very soft and tender, -and dressing them with oil and vinegar, in the ordinary way. A little -chopped parsley, or garlic flavouring by rubbing the bowl, can be added or -not, according to taste. - - -CELERY AND BEET-ROOT SALAD.--A mixture of celery and beet-root makes a very -nice winter salad. The beet-root, of course, is boiled, and the celery -generally sliced up thin in a raw state. It is a great improvement to boil -the celery till it is _nearly_ tender. By this means you improve the -salad, and the celery assists in making vegetarian stock. - -WATER-CRESS.--Water-cress is sometimes mixed with other salad, but when -eaten alone requires no dressing, but only a little salt. - - -DANDELION LEAF SALAD.--Considering that the root of the dandelion is so -largely used in medicine for making taraxacum, it is to be regretted that -the leaves of the plant are not utilised in this country as they are abroad -for making salad. These leaves can be obtained in London at a few shops in -the French colony of Soho. The leaves are washed, dried, placed in a -salad-bowl, and dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way. - -CAULIFLOWER SALAD.--The remains of a cold boiled cauliflower makes a very -good salad if only the white part be used. It can be mixed with remains of -cold potatoes, some chopped blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the -top, and it can be dressed with oil and vinegar in the ordinary way; or it -can be served up with a sauce made from oiled butter similar to that -described for dressing cold asparagus. - - -MUSTARD AND CRESS.--This is somewhat similar to watercress. When served -alone it is generally dipped in salt and eaten with bread-and-butter, but -it is very useful to mix with other kinds of salad. - - -HOP SALAD.--In Germany a very nice salad is made from young hops, which are -grown very extensively in America and Germany, as English brewers are well -aware. The hops are picked when quite young, before they get leafy; they -are then boiled till nearly tender. They can be dressed in the English -fashion with oil and vinegar, or in the German fashion with vinegar and -sugar. - - -ONION SALAD.--Few people are aware of what an excellent salad can be made -from the remains of cold boiled Spanish onions. Spanish onions can -generally be bought at a penny a pound. They are mild in flavour, very -wholesome, and contain a great deal of nourishment. Take a couple of cold -boiled Spanish onions, pull them into leaves after they are quite dry, and -dress them with a very little oil and vinegar. - - -ITALIAN SALAD.--This is a very delicious salad, met with in Italy. It -consists of a great variety of boiled vegetables, which are placed in a -mould and served in aspic jelly. This latter, however, is not allowed in -vegetarian cookery. A very good imitation, however, can be made as -follows:--First take as many cold vegetables as you can, consisting of new -potatoes, sliced, and cut up with a cutter into pretty-looking shapes. You -can also take green peas, asparagus tops, cold boiled cauliflower, French -beans, beet-root, &c. These vegetables should be dressed with a little -oil, tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt, and can be placed in a mould or -plain round basin. This basin can now be filled up with a little water -thickened with corn-flour, hot. When it is cold, it can be turned out and -sent to table in the shape of a mould. - - -MELON SALAD.--Melon is sometimes served abroad as a salad, and a slice of -melon is often sent to table at the commencement of dinner, to be eaten -with a little salt, cayenne pepper, and sometimes oil and vinegar. - - -SALADS, SWEET.--Apples, oranges, currants, pine-apple, and bananas are -sometimes served as salads with syrup and sugar. They make a very nice -mixture, or can be served separately. When preserved pine-apples in tins -are used for the purpose, the syrup in the tin should be used for dressing -the salad. Whole ripe strawberries are a great improvement, as also a -wineglassful of brandy and a lump of ice. - - -SANDWICHES.--There is an art in cutting sandwiches--a fact which persons in -the habit of frequenting railway restaurants will hardly realise. A tinned -loaf is best for the purpose if we wish to avoid waste. The great thing is -to have the two slices of bread to fit together neatly, and there is no -occasion to cut off the crusts when made from a well-rasped tin loaf. -First cut off the crust from the top of the loaf, which, of course, must be -used for some other purpose. The best use for this top slice is to toast -it lightly on the crumby side, and cut it up into little pieces to be -served with soup. Next take the loaf, cut off one thin slice, evenly, and -let it fall on its back on the board you are using. Now butter very -slightly the upper surface. Next butter the top of the loaf, cut another -thin slice, and, of course, these two pieces of bread will be perfectly -level, and, if the two buttered sides be placed together, will fit round -the edge exactly. - - -TOMATO SANDWICHES.--Cut some very ripe red tomatoes into thin slices, and -cut them parallel with the core, as otherwise you will get them in rings -from which the core will drop out. Sprinkle some thin slices of -bread-and-butter with mustard and cress, dip the slices of tomato into a -dressing made with a little oil, pepper, and salt, well mixed up. Put -these between the bread-and-butter, and cut them into squares or triangles -with a very sharp knife. These sandwiches are very cool and refreshing, -and make a most agreeable supper after a hot and crowded ball-room. If you -wish to have them look pretty, pile them up in the centre of a silver dish, -and place a few ripe red tomatoes round the base on some bright green -parsley. Place the dish in an ice-chest for an hour before it is eaten. - - -MUSTARD AND CRESS SANDWICHES.--Place well-washed and dried mustard and -cress between two slices of bread-and-butter, and trim the edges. It is -best to pepper and salt the bread-and-butter first. Pile up the sandwiches -on a silver dish, and sprinkle some loose mustard and cress round the base. - - -EGG SANDWICHES.--Cut some hard-boiled eggs into very thin slices; season -them with pepper and salt, and place them between two slices of thin -bread-and-butter; cut the sandwiches into triangles or squares, pile them -up in a silver dish, place plenty of fresh green parsley round the base of -the dish, and place some hard-boiled eggs, cut in halves, on the parsley, -which will show what the sandwiches are composed of. - - -INDIAN SANDWICHES.--These are exactly similar to the above, with the -addition that the slices of hard-boiled eggs are seasoned with a little -curry-powder. If hard-boiled eggs in halves are placed round the base of -the dish, each half-egg should be sprinkled with curry-powder in order to -show what the sandwiches are. - - -MUSHROOM SANDWICHES.--Take a pint of fresh button mushrooms, peel them, and -throw them into lemon-juice and water, in order to preserve their colour; -or else take the contents of a tin of mushrooms, chop them up and stew them -in a frying-pan very gently with a little butter, pepper, salt, a pinch of -thyme, and the juice of a whole lemon to every pint of mushrooms. When -tender, rub the mixture through a wise sieve while the butter is warm and -the mixture moist. Add a teaspoonful of finely chopped blanched parsley, -spread this mixture while still warm on a thin slice of bread, and cover it -over with another thin slice of bread, and press the two slices of bread -together. When the mixture gets quite cold, the butter will set and the -sandwiches get quite firm. The bread need not be buttered, as the mixture -contains butter enough. Pile these sandwiches up on a silver dish, -surround the dish with plenty of fresh parsley, and place a few fresh -mushrooms whole, stalk and all, round them, as if they are growing out of -the parsley. - - -CHEESE SANDWICHES.--Oil a little butter, add some pepper and salt, and a -spoonful of made mustard and a pinch of cayenne pepper. When this mixture -is nearly cold, use it for buttering some thin slices of bread, and, before -it is quite cold, sprinkle them with some grated Parmesan cheese. Put the -two slices of bread together and press them, and, when cold,. cut them -into squares or triangles. Place plenty of fresh green parsley round the -dish, and, if you are using hard-boiled eggs for other purposes, take the -end of the white of egg, which has a little cup in it not much bigger than -the top of the finger, and put a little heap of Parmesan cheese in each -cup. Place a few of these round the base of the dish, on the parsley, in -order to show what the sandwiches are composed of. - - -CREAM-CHEESE SANDWICHES.--Chop up some of the white part of a head of -celery very fine, and pound it in a mortar with a little butter; season it -with some salt. Use this mixture and butter some thin slices of bread, -place a thin slice of cream cheese between these slices, cut the sandwiches -into squares or triangles with a very sharp knife, and pile the sandwiches -up on a silver dish. Surround the dish with parsley, and place a few -slices of cream-cheese, cut round the size of a halfpenny, round the base, -stick a little piece of the yellowish-white leaves of the heart of celery -in each piece. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -SAVOURY DISHES. - -MUSHROOMS. - - -In many parts of the country mushrooms grow so plentifully that their cost -may be considered almost nothing. On the other hand, if they have to be -bought fresh, at certain seasons of the year they are very expensive, while -tinned mushrooms, which can always be depended upon, cannot be regarded in -any other light than that of a luxury. - -When mushrooms can be gathered in the fields like black-berries they are a -great boon to vegetarians. Of course, great care must be taken that only -genuine mushrooms are picked, as there have been some terrible instances of -poisoning from fungi being gathered by mistake, as many Cockney tourists -know to their cost. As a rule, in England all mushrooms bought in markets -can be depended upon. In France, where mushrooms are very plentiful, an -inspector is appointed in every market, and no mushrooms are allowed to be -sold unless they have first received his sanction. This is a wise -precaution in the right direction. - -One important word of warning before leaving the subject. Mushrooms should -be eaten _freshly gathered_, and, if allowed to get stale, those which were -perfectly wholesome when fresh picked become absolutely poisonous. The -symptoms are somewhat similar to narcotic poisoning. This particularly -applies to the larger and coarser kind that give out black juice. - -MUSHROOMS, PLAIN, GRILLED.--The larger kinds of mushrooms are best for the -purpose. The flat mushrooms should be washed, dried, and peeled. They are -then cooked slowly over a clear fire, and a small wire gridiron, like those -sold at a penny or twopence each, is better adapted for the purpose than -the ordinary gridiron used for grilling steak. The gridiron should be kept -high above the fire. The mushrooms should be dipped in oil, or oiled -butter, and care should be taken that they do not stick to the bars. They -should be served very hot, with pepper and salt and a squeeze of -lemon-juice. - -MUSHROOMS, FRIED.--When mushrooms are very small they are more easily fried -than grilled. They should be washed, dried and peeled, placed in a -frying-pan, with a little butter, pepper and salt, and cooked till tender. -They are very nice served on toast, and the butter in which they are cooked -can be poured on the toast first, and the mushrooms arranged on the top -afterwards. A squeeze of lemon-juice is an improvement. - -MUSHROOMS AU GRATIN.--This is a very delicious dish, and is often served as -an entree at first-class dinners. They are made from what are known as cup -mushrooms. It is best to pick mushrooms, as far as possible, the same -size, the cup being about two inches in diameter. Peel the mushrooms very -carefully, without breaking them, cut out the stalks close down with a -spoon, scoop out the inside of the cup, so as to make it hollow. Now peel -the stalks and chop them up with all the scooped part of the mushroom, -with, supposing we are making ten cups, a piece of onion as big as the top -of the thumb down to the first joint. To this add a brimming teaspoonful -of chopped parsley, or even a little more, a saltspoonful of dried thyme, -or half this quantity of fresh thyme. Fry all this in a frying-pan, in a -little butter. The aroma is delicious. Then add sufficient dried -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve to make the whole -into a moist paste, fill each of the cups with this mixture so that the top -is as convex as the cup of the mushroom, having first seasoned the mixture -with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. Shake some fine -bread-raspings over the top so as to make them of a nice golden-brown -colour, pour a little drop of oil into a baking-tin, place the mushrooms in -it, and bake them gently in an oven till the cup part of the mushroom -becomes soft and tender, but take care they do not cook till they break. -Now take them out carefully with an egg-slice, and place them on a dish--a -silver dish is best for the purpose-and place some nice, crisp, fried -parsley round the edge. - - -MUSHROOMS A LA BORDELAISE.--This, as the name implies, is a French recipe. -It consists of ordinary grilled mushrooms, served in a sauce composed of -oil or oiled butter, chopped up with parsley and garlic, thickened with the -yolks of eggs. - -MUSHROOMS A LA PROVENCALE.--This is an Italian recipe. You must first -wash, peel, and dry the mushrooms, and then soak them for some time in what -is called a _marinade_, which is another word for pickle, of oil mixed with -chopped garlic, pepper, and salt. They are then stewed in oil with plenty -of chopped parsley over rather a brisk fire. Squeeze, a little lemon-juice -over them and serve them in a dish surrounded with a little fried or -toasted bread. - - -MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT.--The mushrooms after being cleaned should be chopped up -and fried in a little butter; lemon-juice should be added before they are -chopped in order to preserve their colour. One or two hard-boiled yolks of -eggs can be added to the mixture, and the whole rubbed through a wire sieve -while hot. When the mixture is hot it should be moist, but, of course, -when it gets cold, owing to the butter it will be hard. This mushroom -forcemeat can be used for a variety of purposes. - - -MUSHROOM PIE.--Wash, dry, and peel some mushrooms, and cut them into slices -with an equal quantity of cut-up potatoes. Bake these in a pie, having -first moistened the potatoes and mushrooms in a little butter. Add pepper -and salt and a small pinch of thyme. Cover them with a little water and -put some paste over the dish in the ordinary way. It is a great -improvement, after the pie is baked, to pour in some essence of mushrooms -made from stewing the stalks and peelings in a little water. A single -onion should be put in with them. - - -MUSHROOM PIE, COLD.--Prepare the mushrooms, potatoes, and essence of -mushroom as directed above, adding a little chopped parsley. Bake all -these in the dish before you cover with paste, add also an extra seasoning -of pepper. When the mushrooms and potatoes are perfectly tender, strain -off all the juice or gravy, and thicken it with corn-flour; put this back -in the pie-dish and mix all well together, and pile it up in the middle of -the dish so that the centre is raised above the edge. Let this get quite -cold, then cover it with puff-paste, and as soon as the pastry is done take -it out of the oven and let the pie get cold. This can now be cut in -slices. - - -MUSHROOM PUDDING.--Make a mixture of mushrooms, potatoes, &c., exactly -similar to that for making a pie. Place this in a basin with only -sufficient water to moisten the ingredients, cover the basin with -bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and steam the basin in the ordinary way. - - -TOMATOES, GRILLED.--What is necessary is a clear fire and a gridiron in -which the bars are not too far apart. The disputed point is, should the -tomatoes be grilled whole or cut in half? This may be considered a matter -of taste, but personally we prefer them grilled whole. Moisten the tomato -in a little oil or oiled butter, and grill them carefully, as they are apt -to break. Grilled tomatoes are very nice with plain boiled macaroni, or -can be served up on boiled rice. - - -TOMATOES, BAKED.--Place the tomatoes in a tin with a little butter, and -occasionally baste them with the butter. When they are tender, they can be -served either plain or with boiled macaroni or rice. The butter and juice -in the tin should be poured over them. - - -TOMATOES, FRIED.--Place the tomatoes in a frying-pan with a little butter, -and fry them until they are tender. Pour the contents of the frying-pan -over them, serve plain, or with macaroni or rice. - - -TOMATOES, STEWED.--Take half a dozen good-sized tomatoes, and chop up very -finely one onion about the same size as the tomatoes. Moisten the bottom -of a stew-pan with a little butter, and sprinkle the chopped onion over the -tomatoes. Add a dessertspoonful of water; place the lid on the stewpan, -which ought to fit tightly. It is best to put a weight on the lid of the -stew-pan, such as a flat-iron. Place the stew-pan on the fire, and let -them steam till they are tender. They are cooked this way in Spain and -Portugal, and very often chopped garlic is used instead of onion. - - -TOMATOES AU GRATIN.--Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut off the stalks, and -squeeze out time juice and pips. Next take a few mushrooms and make a -mixture exactly similar to that which was used to fill the inside of -Mushrooms au gratin. Fill each tomato with some of this mixture, so that -it assumes its original shape and tight skin. The top or hole where the -stalk was cut out will probably be about the size of a shilling or -halfpenny. Shake some bright-coloured bread raspings over this spot -without letting them fall on the red tomato. In order to do this, cut a -round hole the right size in a stiff piece of paper. Place the tomatoes in -a stew-pan or a baking-dish in the oven, moistened with a little oil. The -oil should be about the eighth of an inch deep. Stew or bake the tomatoes -till they are tender, and then take them out carefully with an egg-slice, -and serve them surrounded with fried parsley. If placed in a silver dish -this has a very pretty appearance. - - -TOMATO PIE.--Slice up an equal number of ripe tomatoes and potatoes. Place -them in a pie-dish with enough oiled butter to moisten them. Add a -brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, pepper, and -salts and, if possible, a few peeled mushrooms, which will be found to be a -very great improvement. Cover the pie with paste, and bake in the oven. - - -TOMATO PIE (ANOTHER WAY).--Proceed as in making an ordinary potato pie. -Add a small bottle of tomato conserve, cover with paste, and bake in the -ordinary way. - - -POTATO PIE.--Peel and slice up some potatoes as thin as possible. At the -same time slice up some onions. If Spanish onions are used allow equal -quantities of potatoes and onions, but if ordinary onions are used allow -only half this quantity. Place a layer of sliced onion and sliced potato -alternately. Add some pepper, salt, and sufficient butter to moisten the -potato and butter before any water is added. Pour in some water and add a -teaspoonful of chopped parsley, cover the pie with paste, and bake in the -ordinary way. - - -POTATO PIE (ANOTHER WAY).--Butter a shallow pie-dish rather thickly. Line -the edges with a good crust, and then fill the pie with mashed potatoes -seasoned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Lay over them some small -lumps of butter, hard-boiled eggs, blanched almonds, sliced dates, sliced -lemon and candied peel. Cover the dish with pastry and bake the pie in a -well-heated oven for half an hour or more, according to the size of the -pie. - - -PUMPKIN PIE.--Peel a ripe pumpkin and chip off the rind or skin, halve it, -and take out the seed and fluffy part in the centre, which throw away. Cut -the pumpkin into small, thin slices, fill a pie-dish therewith, add to it -half a teaspoonful of allspice and a tablespoonful of sugar, with a small -quantity of water. Cover with a nice light paste and bake in the ordinary -way. Pumpkin pie is greatly unproved by being eaten with Devonshire cream -and sugar. An equal quantity of apples with the pumpkin will make a still -more delicious pie. - - -PUMPKIN PUDDING.--Take a large pumpkin, pare it, and remove the seeds. Cut -half of it into thin slices, and boil these gently in water until they are -quite soft, then rub them through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden -spoon. Measure the pulp, and with each pint put four ounces of butter and -a large nutmeg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, then -add the third of a pint of hot milk and four well-beaten eggs. Pour the -pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven for about an -hour. Sugar may be added to taste. - - -POTATO CHEESECAKE.--(_See_ CHEESECAKES.) - - -CHEESE WITH FRIED BREAD.--Take some stale bread, and cut it into strips -about three inches long and one wide and one inch thick. Fry the bread in -some butter or oil till it is a nice bright golden colour. Spread a layer -of made mustard over the strips of fried bread, and then cover them with -grated Parmesan cheese, pile them up on a dish, and place them in the oven. -As soon as the cheese begins to melt serve them very hot. - - -CHEESE, SAVOURY.--Take equal quantities of grated Parmesan cheese, butter, -and flour; add a little salt and cayenne pepper, make these into a paste -with some water, roll out the paste thin till it is about a quarter of an -inch thick; cut it into strips and bake them in the oven till they are a -nice brown, and serve hot. - - -CHEESE SOUFFLE.--(_See_ OMELETS.) - - -CHEESE PUDDING.--Mix half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese with four eggs, -well beaten up; mix in also two ounces of butter, which should be first -beaten to a cream, add half a pint of milk and pour the mixture into a -well-buttered pie-dish, sprinkle some grated Parmesan cheese over the top, -and bake in the oven for about half an hour. The pudding will be lighter -if two of the whites of eggs are beaten to a stiff froth. The edge of the -pie-dish can be lined with puff-paste. - - -CHEESE RAMEQUINS.--Put half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese in a stew-pan -with a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pint of water; add a -little pepper and salt, and as much flour as will make the whole into a -thick paste. Mix up with the paste as many well-beaten-up eggs as will -make the paste not too liquid to be moulded into a shape. The eggs should -be beaten till they froth. Now, with a tablespoon, mould this mixture into -shapes like a meringue or egg; place these on a buttered tin and bake them -till they are a nice brown colour. - - -CHEESE, STEWED.--When the remains of cheese have got very dry it is a good -plan to use it up in the shape of stewed cheese. Break up the cheese and -put it in a small stew-pan with about a quarter its weight of butter; add a -little milk, and let the cheese stew gently till it is dissolved. At the -finish, and when you have removed it from the fire, add a well-beaten-up -egg. This can be served on toast, or it can be poured on to a dish and -pieces of toasted bread stuck in it. - - -CHEESE STRAWS.--Mix equal quantities of grated Parmesan cheese, grated -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve, butter, and flour; -add a little cayenne and grated nutmeg. Make it into a thick paste, roll -it out very thin, cut it into strips, and bake for a few minutes in a -fierce oven. - - -CHEESE, TOASTED.--This is best done in a Dutch oven, so that when one side -is toasted you can turn the oven and toast the back; as soon as the cheese -begins to melt it is done. As it gets cold very quickly, and when cold -gets hard, it is best served on hot-water plates. - - -CHEESE, DEVILLED.--Chop up some hot pickles, add some cayenne pepper and -mustard. Melt some cheese in a stew-pan with a little butter, mix in the -pickles, and serve on toast. - - -WELSH RAREBIT.--Toast a large slice of bread; in the meantime melt some -cheese in the saucepan with a little butter. When the cheese is melted it -will be found that a good deal of oiled butter floats on the top. Pour -this over the dry toast first, and then pour the melted cheese afterwards. -Some persons add a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce to the cheese, and others -a tablespoonful of good old Burton ale over the top. - - -AYOLI.--This is a dish almost peculiar to the South of France. Soak some -crusts of bread in water, squeeze them dry, and add two cloves of garlic -chopped fine, six blanched almonds, also chopped very fine, and a yolk of -an egg; mix up the whole into a smooth paste with a little oil. - - -PUMPKIN A LA PARMESANE.--Cut a large pumpkin into square pieces and boil -them for about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, and take them out, -drain them, and put them in a stew-pan with a little butter, salt, and -grated nutmeg; fry them, sprinkle them with a little Parmesan cheese, and -bake them for a short time in the oven till the cheese begins to melt, and -then serve. This is an Italian recipe. - - -ZUCCHETTI FARCIS.--Take some very small gourds or pumpkins, boil them for -about a quarter of an hour in salt and water, and then fill them with a -forcemeat made as follows: Take some crumb of bread and soak it in milk, -squeeze it and add the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and two raw yolks; -chop up very finely half a dozen blanched almonds with a couple of cloves; -add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and a little salt and grated -nutmeg. Stew these gourds in butter and serve them with white sauce. - - -STUFFED ONIONS (ITALIAN FASHION).--Parboil some large onions, stamp out the -core after they have been allowed to get quite cold in a little water; fill -the inside with forcemeat similar to the above; fry then), squeeze the -juice of a lemon over them, with a little pepper. - - -POLENTA.--Polenta is made from ground Indian corn, and is seen in Italian -shop-windows in the form of a yellow powder; it is made into a paste with -boiling water, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese, and baked in the oven. - - -PIROSKI SERNIKIS.--This dish is met with in Poland, and is made by mixing -up two pounds of cream-cheese, three-quarters of a pound of fine -bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve, six eggs well -beaten up; add a little cream or milk, four ounces of washed grocer's -currants, one ounce of sugar, half a grated nutmeg; and when the whole is -thoroughly mixed add as much flour as is necessary to make the whole into a -paste that can be rolled into balls. These balls should not be much bigger -than a walnut. Flour them, and then flatten them into little cakes and fry -them a nice brown in some butter. - -Of course, a smaller quantity can be made by using these ingredients in -proportion. - - -NALESNIKIS (POLISH PANCAKES).--Take eight eggs and beat them up very -thoroughly with about a pint and a half of milk, or still better, cream, -two ounces of butter that has been oiled, half a grated nutmeg, and about a -dozen lumps of sugar that have been rubbed on the outside of a lemon; mix -in sufficient flour--about three-quarters of a pound will be required--to -make the whole into a very smooth batter. Melt a little butter in a -frying-pan, pour it all over the pan, and when it frizzles, pour in some of -the batter, and sprinkle over a few currants; when the pancake is fried, -shake some powdered sugar over it, roll it up like an ordinary pancake, and -serve hot. - - -FRITTERS. - -BATTER FOR SAVOURY FRITTERS.--Put six ounces of flour into a basin, with a -pinch of salt, the yolk of one egg, and a quarter of a pint of warm water. -Work this round and round with a wooden spoon till it is perfectly smooth -and looks like thick cream. About half an hour before the batter is wanted -for use whip the white of one egg to a stiff froth and mix it lightly in. - - -MUSHROOM FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom forcemeat; let it get quite cold on -a dish about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut out some small rounds, about -the size of a penny-piece. They fry better if slightly oval. Have ready -some thick batter (_See_ BATTER). Have also ready in a saucepan some -boiling oil, which should be heated to about 350 degrees. Place a -frying-basket in the saucepan, flour the rounds of mushroom forcemeat so as -to make them perfectly dry on the outside. Dip these pieces into the -batter and throw them into the boiling oil. The great heat of the oil will -set the batter before the mushroom force-meat has time to melt. Directly -the batter is a nice light-brown colour, lift them out of the boiling oil -with the frying-basket, and throw them on to a cloth to drain. Break off -the outside pieces of batter, and serve the fritters on a neatly folded -napkin on a dish surrounded by fried parsley. - -The beauty of these fritters is that when they are eaten the inside is -moist, owing, of course, to the heat having melted the forcemeat. - - -TOMATO FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom forcemeat and spread it out as thin as -possible. Take some ripe tomatoes, cut them in slices, dip the slice in -vinegar, drain it and pepper it, and then wrap this thin slice of tomato in -a layer of mushroom forcemeat. Bring the edges together, flour it, dip it -into batter (_see_ BATTER), and throw it into boiling oil as in making -mushroom fritters (_see_ MUSHROOM FRITTERS). - - -IMITATION GAME FRITTERS.--Make some mushroom force-meat as directed under -the heading "Mushroom Forcemeat," with the addition of, when you fry the -mushrooms, chop up and fry with them two heads of garlic, and add a -saltspoonful of aromatic flavouring herbs. (These, are sold in bottles by -all grocers under the name of "Herbaceous Mixture.") Then proceed exactly -as if you were making mushroom fritters (_see_ MUSHROOM FRITTERS). - - -HOMINY FRITTERS.--These are made from remains of cold boiled hominy, cut in -thin slices, which must be dipped in batter and fried in boiling oil. - - -CHEESE FRITTERS.--Pound some dry cheese, or take about three ounces of -Parmesan cheese, and mix it with a few bread-crumbs, a piece of butter, a -pinch of cayenne pepper, and the yolk of an egg, till the whole becomes a -thick paste. Roll the mixture into very small balls, flatten them, flour -them, dip them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil in the ordinary -way. Put them in the oven for five minutes before serving them. - - -SAGE AND ONION FRITTERS.--Make some ordinary sage and onion stuffing, -allowing one fresh sage leaf or two dried to each parboiled onion; add -pepper and salt and dried breadcrumbs. Now moisten the whole with -clarified butter, till the mixture becomes a moist pulp. When it begins to -get cold and sets, roll it into small balls, the size of a very small -walnut, flatten these and let them get quite cold, then flour them, dip -them into batter, and throw them into boiling oil; remove them with the -frying-basket, and serve with fried parsley. - - -SPINACH FRITTERS.--Make a little thick puree of spinach, add a pinch of -savoury herbs containing marjoram; mix in a little clarified butter and one -or two lumps of sugar rubbed on the outside of a lemon, as well as a little -grated nutmeg. Roll the mixture into very small ball; or else they will -break, flatten them, flour them, dip them into batter, and throw them into -boiling oil, and serve immediately. - - -FRITTERS, SWEET.--In making sweet fritters, the same kind of batter will do -as we used for making savoury fritters, though many cooks add a little -powdered sugar. The same principles hold good. The oil must be heated to -a temperature of 350 degrees, and a frying-basket must be used. Instead of -flouring the substances employed to make them dry, before being dipped into -the batter, which is an essential point in making fritters, we must use -finely powdered sugar, and it will be found a saving of both time and -trouble to buy pounded sugar for the purpose. It is sold by grocers under -the name of castor sugar. We cannot make this at home in a pestle and -mortar to the same degree of fineness any more than we could grind our own -flour. We cannot compete with machinery. - - -APPLE FRITTERS.--Peel some apples, cut them in slices across the core, and -stamp out the core. It is customary, where wine, &c., is not objected to, -to soak these rings of apples for several hours in a mixture of brandy, -grated lemon or orange peel and sugar, or better still, to rub some lumps -of sugar on the outside of a lemon or orange and dissolve this in the -brandy. Of course, brandy is not necessary, but the custom is worth -mentioning. The rings of apple can be soaked for some time in syrup -flavoured this way. They must then be made dry by being dipped in powdered -sugar, then dipped into batter and thrown, one at a time, into a saucepan -containing smoking hot oil in which a wire frying-basket has been placed. -Directly the fritters are a nice brown, take them out, break off the rough -pieces, shake some finely powdered sugar over them, pile them up on a dish, -and serve. - - -APRICOT FRITTERS.--These can be made from fresh apricots or tinned ones, -not too ripe; if they break they are not fitted. When made from fresh -apricots they should be peeled, cut in halves, the round end removed, -dipped in powdered sugar, then dipped in batter, thrown into boiling oil, -and finished like apple fritters. Some persons soak the apricots in -brandy. - - -BANANA FRITTERS.--Banana fritters can be made from the bananas as sold in -this country, and it is a mistake to think that when they are black outside -they are bad. When in this state they are sometimes sold as cheap as six a -penny. Peel the bananas, cut them into slices half an inch thick, dip them -into finely powdered sugar and then into batter, and finish as directed in -apple fritters. - -Some persons soak the slices of banana in maraschino. - - -CUSTARD FRITTERS.--Take half a pint of cream in which some cinnamon and -lemon have been boiled, add to this five yolks of eggs, a little flour, and -about three ounces of sugar. Put this into a pie-dish, well buttered, and -steam it till the custard becomes quite set; then let it get cold, and cut -it into slices about half an inch thick and an inch and a half long, -sprinkle each piece with a little powdered cinnamon, and make it quite dry -with some powdered sugar. Then dip each piece into batter, throw them one -by one into boiling oil, and finish as directed for apple fritters. - - -ALMOND FRITTERS, CHOCOLATE FRITTERS, COFFEE FRITTERS, VANILLA FRITTERS, -&c.--These fritters are made exactly in the same way as custard fritters, -only substituting powdered chocolate, pounded almonds, essence of coffee, -or essence of vanilla, for the powdered cinnamon. - - -FRANGIPANE FRITTERS.--Make a Frangipane cream by mixing eggs with a little -cold potato, butter, sugar, and powdered ratafias, the proportion being a -quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, six ounces of sugar, one cold -floury potato, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias. Bake or steam this -until it is set, and proceed as in custard fritters. Many persons add the -flavouring of a little rum. - - -PEACH FRITTERS.--These are made exactly similar to apricot fritters, -bearing in mind that if they are made from tinned peaches only the firm -pieces, and not pulpy ones, must be used for the purpose. Proceed exactly -as directed for apricot fritters. - -If any liqueur is used, noyeau is best adapted for the purpose. - - -POTATO FRITTERS.--Mix up some floury potato with a quarter of a pound of -butter, a well-beaten-up egg, and three ounces of sugar, some of which has -been rubbed on the outside of a lemon. The addition of a little cream is a -great improvement. Roll the mixture into small balls and flour them; they -are then fried just as they are, without being dipped into batter. - - -PINE-APPLE FRITTERS.--These can be made from fresh pine-apples or tinned. -They should be cut into slices like apple fritters if the pine-apple is -small, but if the pine-apple is large they can be cut into strips three -inches long and one wide and half an inch thick. These must be dipped in -powdered sugar, then into batter, and finished as directed for apple -fritters. - -If any liqueur is used, maraschino is best adapted to the purpose. - -ORANGE FRITTERS.--Only first-class oranges are adapted for this purpose. -Thick-skinned and woolly oranges are no use. Peel a thin-skinned ripe -orange, divide each orange into about six pieces, soak these in a syrup -flavoured with sugar rubbed on the outside of an orange, and if liqueur is -used make the syrup with brandy. After they have soaked some time, remove -any pips, dip each piece into hatter, and proceed as directed for apple -fritters. - - -CREAM FRITTERS.--Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, pound -them, and mix with a little cream; take some small pieces of stale white -cake, such as Madeira cake or what the French call brioche. Soak these -pieces of stale cake, which must be cut small and thin, or they will break, -in the orange-flavoured cream, dry each piece in some finely-powdered -sugar, dip it into batter, and proceed as directed for making apple -fritters. - - -GERMAN FRITTERS.--Take some small stale pieces of cake, and soak them in a -little milk or cream flavoured with essence of vanilla and sweetened with a -little sugar. Take them out, and let them get a little dry on the outside, -then dip them in a well-beaten-up egg, cover them with bread-crumbs, and -fry a nice golden-brown colour. - - -RICE AND GINGER FRITTERS.--Boil a small quantity of rice in milk and add -some preserved ginger chopped small, some sugar, and one or more eggs, -sufficient to set the mixture when baked in a pie-dish. Bake till set, -then cut into slices about two inches long, an inch wide, and half an inch -thick; dry these pieces with powdered sugar, dip into batter, and finish as -directed for making apple fritters. - - -RICE FRITTERS.--A variety of fritters could be made from a small baked rice -pudding, flavoured with various kinds of essences, spices, orange -marmalade, peach marmalade, fresh lime marmalade, apricot jam, &c., -proceeding exactly as directed above. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -VEGETABLES. - -SUBSTANTIAL VEGETABLES. - - -Vegetables may be roughly divided into two classes--those that may be -called substantial and which are adapted to form a meal in themselves, and -those of a lighter kind, which cannot be said to make a sufficient repast -unless eaten with bread. - -Potatoes were first introduced into this country about 400 years ago, -tobacco being introduced about the same period, and we cannot disguise the -fact that there are many who regard the latter as the greater blessing of -the two. If Sir Henry Thompson is right in stating that tobacco is the -great ally of temperance, there may be some ground for this opinion. - -Potatoes form an important article of food for the body, while, whatever -effect tobacco may have upon the thinking powers of mankind, it is almost -the only product of the vegetable kingdom that is absolutely uneatable even -when placed within the reach of those in the last stage of starvation. - -In some parts, especially in Ireland, potatoes form almost the only food of -the population, just as rice does in hotter climates, and when the crop -fails famine ensues. When potatoes form the only kind of food, a very -large quantity has to be eaten by a hard-working man in order for him to -receive sufficient nourishment to keep his body healthy, the amount -required being not less than ten pounds per day. If, on the other hand, a -certain amount of fat or oil of some kind be mixed with them, a far less -quantity will suffice. Hence we find in Ireland that, wherever it is -possible, either some kind of oily fish, such as herring, is taken with -them, or, which is much more to the point with vegetarians, a certain -quantity of fat is obtained in the shape of milk. - -It must also be remembered that four pounds of raw potatoes contain only -one pound of solid food, the remaining three pounds being water. It is -important, for those who first commence a vegetarian diet, to remember that -vegetables like peas, haricot beans, and lentils are far superior to -potatoes so far as nourishment is concerned, for many are apt to jump to -the conclusion that potatoes are the very best substitute for bread and -milk. So, too, is oatmeal. A Scotchman requires a far less quantity of -oatmeal to sustain life than an Irishman does potatoes; hence it is a very -important point to remember that, if we depend upon potatoes to any great -extent for our daily food, we should cook them in such a manner as to -entail as little waste as possible. We will now try and explain, as -briefly as possible, the best method of serving. - - -POTATOES, PLAIN BOILED.--The best method of having potatoes, if we wish to -study economy, is to boil them in their jackets, as it is generally -admitted that the most nourishing part is that which lies nearest to the -skin. There are many houses in the country where an inexperienced cook -will peel, say four pounds of potatoes, and throw the peel into the -pig-tub, where the pig gets a better meal than the family. - -When potatoes are boiled in their skins, they should be thoroughly washed -and scrubbed with a hard brush. Old potatoes should be put into cold -water, and when the water boils the time should a good deal depend upon the -size of the potatoes. When the potatoes are large, the chief principle to -be borne in mind is, do not let them boil too quickly or cook too quickly. -We must avoid having the outside pulpy while the inside is hard. The -water, which should be slightly salted, should more than cover them, and, -if the potatoes are very large, directly the water comes to the boil it is -a good plan to throw in a little cold water to take it off the boil. It is -quite impossible to lay down any exact law in regard to boiling potatoes. -We cannot do more than give general principles which can only be carried -out by cooks who possess a little common sense. - -Small new potatoes are an extreme in one direction. They should be thrown -into boiling water, and are generally cooked in about ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour. Large old potatoes should be put into cold water and, -as we have stated, the water should not be allowed to boil too soon, and it -will take very often an hour to boil them properly. Between these two -extremes there is a gradually ascending scale which must be left to the -judgment of the cook. It is as impossible to lay down any hard-and-fast -line with regard to time in boiling potatoes as it would be to say at what -exact point in the thermometer between freezing and 80 degrees in the shade -a man should put on his top coat. - -If we may be allowed the expression, "old new" potatoes should be thrown -into neither boiling water nor cold water, but lukewarm water. Again, in -boiling potatoes, especially in the case of old ones, some little allowance -must be made for the time of year. In winter, they require longer time, -and we may here mention the fact that it is very important that potatoes, -after they are dug, should not be left out of doors and exposed to a hard -frost, as in this case a chemical change takes place in which the starch is -converted into sugar. - -When potatoes are boiled in their jackets sufficiently, which fact is -generally tested by sticking a steel fork into them, they should be -strained off, and allowed to get dry for a few minutes in the saucepan, -which should be removed from the fire, as at times the potatoes are apt to -stick and burn. - -When large potatoes are peeled before they are boiled, we should endeavour -to send them to table floury, and this is often said to be the test of a -really good cook. After the water has been strained off from the potatoes, -a dry cloth should be placed under the lid of the saucepan, and the lid -should only be placed half on, _i.e._, it should not be fitted down tight. -It is also as well to give the saucepan now and then a shake, but do not -overdo the shaking and break them. About five or ten minutes is generally -sufficient. - - -POTATOES, STEAMED.--Potatoes can be steamed in their jackets, and it is a -more economical method than peeling. It should be remembered, however, -that steam is hotter than boiling water. If plain water is underneath and -boils furiously, and the steam is well shut in, they will cook very -quickly; but if, as is generally the case, something else is in the -saucepan under the steamer, boiling gently, this does not apply. We refer -to the ordinary steamer met with in private houses, and not to the ones -used in the large hotels and restaurants. - - -POTATOES, BAKED.--When potatoes are baked in the oven in their jackets the -larger they are the better. The oven must not be too fierce, and ample -time should be allowed. Baked potatoes require quite two hours. This only -refers to those baked in their jackets. When potatoes are cut up and baked -in a tin they require some kind of fat, which, of course, in vegetarian -cookery must be either oil or butter. - - -POTATOES, MASHED.--What may be termed high-class mashed potatoes are made -by mashing up ordinary boiled potatoes with a little milk _previously -boiled_, a little butter, and passing the whole through a wire sieve, when -a little cream, butter and salt is added. - -In private houses mashed potatoes are generally made from the remains of -cold boiled potatoes, or when the cook, in boiling the potatoes, has made a -failure. Still, of course, potatoes are boiled often expressly for the -purpose of being mashed. This is often the case where old potatoes have to -be cut into all sorts of shapes and sizes in order to get rid of the black -spots. As soon as the potatoes are boiled they are generally moistened in -the saucepan with a little drop of milk. It is undoubtedly an improvement, -and also entails very little extra trouble, to boil the milk first. There -is a difference in flavour, which is very marked, between milk that has -been boiled and raw milk. Suppose you have coffee for breakfast, add -boiling milk to one cup and raw milk to another, and then see how great a -difference there will be in the flavour of the two. A little butter should -be added to mashed potatoes, but it is not really essential. Mashed -potatoes can be served in the shape of a mould, that is, they can be shaped -in a mould and then browned in the oven. If you serve mashed potatoes in -an ordinary dish, and pile them up in the shape of a dome, the dish will -look much prettier if you score it round with a fork and then place the -dish in a fairly fierce even; the edges will brown, but be careful that -they don't get burnt black. - - -POTATOES, FRIED.--The best lesson, if you wish to fry potatoes nicely, is -to look in at the window of a fried fish shop, where every condition is -fulfilled that is likely to lead to perfection. The bath of oil is deep -and smoking hot, and in sufficient quantity not to lose greatly in -temperature on the introduction of the frying-basket containing the -potatoes. The potatoes must be cut up into small pieces, not much bigger -in thickness than the little finger; these are plunged into the smoking hot -oil, and as soon as they are _slightly_ browned on the outside they are -done. They acquire a darker colour after they are removed from the oil, -and the inside will go on cooking for several minutes. It would be quite -impossible to eat fried potatoes directly they are taken out of the fat, as -they would burn the mouth terribly. It is best to throw the fried potatoes -into a cloth for a few seconds. - - -POTATO CHIPS.--Potato chips are ordinary fried potatoes cut up when raw -into little pieces about the size and thickness of a lucifer match. They, -of course, will cook very quickly. They should be removed from the oil -directly they _begin_ to turn colour. - - -POTATO RIBBON.--Potato ribbon is simply ordinary fried potatoes, in which -the raw potato is cut in the shape of a ribbon. You take a potato and peel -it in the ordinary way. You then take this and, with not too sharp a -knife, peel it like apple, making the strip as long as you can, like -children sometimes do when they throw the apple peel over their shoulders -to see what letter it will make. You can go on peeling the potato round -and round till there is none left. These ribbons are thrown into boiling -oil, and must be removed as soon as they begin to turn colour. When piled -up in a dish they look very pretty, and with a little pepper and salt, and -a squeeze of lemon-juice, make an excellent meal when eaten with bread. - - -POTATO SAUTE.--This dish is more frequently met with abroad than in -England, except in foreign restaurants. It is made by taking the remains -of ordinary plain-boiled potatoes that are not floury. These are cut up -into small pieces about the size of the thumb, no particular shape being -necessary. They are thrown into a frying-pan with a little butter, and -fried gently till the edges begin to brown; they are served with chopped -parsley and pepper and salt. The butter should be poured over the -potatoes, and supplies the fatty element which potato lacks. - - -POTATOES A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.--These are very similar to potato saute, the -difference being that they are not browned at the edges. Small kidney -potatoes are best for the purpose. These must be boiled till tender, and -the potatoes then cut into slices. These must be warmed up with a spoonful -or two of white sauce (_see_ WHITE SAUCE), to which is added some chopped -parsley and a little lemon-juice. A more common way is to boil the -potatoes, slice them up while hot, and then toss them about in a -vegetable-dish lightly with a lump of what is called Maitre d'hotel butter. -This is simply a lump of plain cold butter, mixed with chopped parsley, -till it looks like a lump of cold parsley and butter. When tossed about -squeeze a little lemon-juice over the whole and serve. - - -POTATOES, NEW.--New potatoes should be washed and the skin, if necessary, -rubbed off with the fingers; they should be thrown into boiling water, -slightly salted, and as a rule require from fifteen to five-and-twenty -minutes to boil before they are done. During the last few minutes throw in -one or two sprigs of fresh mint, drain them off and let there dry, and then -place them in a vegetable-dish with the mint and a little piece of butter, -in which the potatoes should be boiled to give them a shiny appearance -outside. - -New potatoes can also be served with a little white sauce to which has been -added a little chopped parsley. - -POTATO BALLS.--Mash some boiled potatoes with a little butter, pepper, -salt, chopped parsley, chopped onion, or still better, shallot, and add a -few savoury herbs. Mix up one or two or more well-beaten eggs, according -to the quantity of potato, roll the mixture into balls, flour them, and fry -them a nice brown colour, and serve. - - -POTATO CROQUETTES OR CUTLETS.--These are very similar to potato balls, only -they should be smaller and more delicately flavoured. The potatoes are -boiled and mashed, and, if the croquettes are wished to be very good, one -or two hard-boiled yolks of eggs should be mixed with them. The mixture is -slightly flavoured with shallot, savoury herbs or thyme, chopped parsley, -and a little nutmeg. One or two fresh well-beaten-up eggs are now added, -the mixture then rolled into small balls no bigger than a walnut. These -are then dipped in well-beaten-up egg, and then bread-crumbed. The balls -are fried a nice golden-brown colour and served. - -Potato cutlets are exactly the same, only instead of shaping the mixture -into a little ball, the ball is flattened into the shape of a small oval -cutlet. These are then egged, bread-crumbed, and fried, but before being -sent to table a small piece of green parsley stalk is stuck in one end to -represent the bone of the cutlet. These little cutlets, placed on an -ornamental sheet of white paper, at the bottom of the silver dish, look -very pretty. A small heap of fried parsley should be placed in the centre -of the dish. - - -POTATO PIE.--(_See_ SAVOURY DISHES, p. 112.) - - -POTATO CHEESECAKE.--(_See_ CHEESECAKES, p. 169.) - - -POTATO SALADS.--(_See_ SALADS, p. 101.) - - -POTATO, BORDER OF.--A very pretty dish can be made by making a border of -mashed potatoes, hollow in the centre, in which can be placed various kinds -of other vegetables, such as haricot beans, stewed peas, &c. The mashed -potato should be mixed with one or two well-beaten-up eggs, and the outside -of the border can be moulded by hand, to make it look smooth and neat; a -piece of flexible tin, flat, will be found very useful, or even a piece of -cardboard. If you wish to make the border ornamental, you can proceed -exactly as directed under the heading Rice Borders, and if it is wished to -make the dish particularly handsome, it can be painted outside, before -being placed in the oven, with a yolk of egg beaten up with a tiny drop of -hot water. When this is done, the potato border has an appearance similar -in colour to the rich pastry generally seen outside a pie, or _vol au -vent_. The inside of the potato border after it has been scooped out can -be filled with plain boiled macaroni mixed with Parmesan cheese, and -ornamented with a little chopped parsley on the top and a few small baked -red ripe tomatoes. Again, it can be filled with white haricot beans piled -up in the shape of a dome, with some chopped parsley sprinkled over the -top. There are, perhaps, few dishes in vegetarian cookery that can be made -to look more elegant. - - -POTATO BISCUITS (_M. Ude's Recipe_).--Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the -yolks into one pan and the whites into another. Beat the yolks with a -pound of sugar pounded very fine, scrape the peel of a lemon with a lump of -sugar, dry that and pound it fine also; then throw into it the yolks, and -work the eggs and sugar till they are of a whitish colour. Next whip the -whites well and mix them with the yolks. Now sift half a pound of flour of -potatoes through a silk sieve over the eggs and sugar. Have some paper -cases ready, which lay on a plafond with some paper underneath. Fill the -cases, but not too full; glaze the contents with some rather coarse sugar, -and bake the whole in an oven moderately heated. - - -POTATO BREAD.--In making bread, a portion of mashed potato is sometimes -added to the flour, and this addition improves the bread very much for some -tastes; it also keeps it from getting dry quite so soon. At the same time -it is not so nutritious as ordinary home-made bread. Boil the required -quantity of potatoes in their skins, drain and dry them, then peel and -weigh them. Pound them with the rolling-pin until they are quite free from -lumps, and mix with them the flour in the proportion of seven pounds of -flour to two and a half pounds of potatoes. Add the yeast and knead in the -ordinary way, but make up the bread with milk instead of water. When the -dough is well risen, bake the bread in a gentle oven. Bake it a little -longer than for ordinary bread, and, when it seems done enough, let it -stand a little while, with the oven-door open, before taking it out. -Unless these precautions are taken, the crust will be hard and brittle, -while the inside is still moist and doughy. This recipe is from "Cassell's -Dictionary of Cookery." - - -POTATO CAKE.--Take a dozen good-sized potatoes and hake them in the oven -till done, then peel and put them into a saucepan with a little salt and -grated lemon-peel; set them upon the stove and put in a piece of fresh -butter and stir the whole; add a little cream and sugar, still continuing -to stir them; then let them cool a little and add some orange-flower water, -eight yolks of eggs and four only of whites, whisked into froth; heat up -the whole together and mix it with the potato puree. Butter a mould and -sprinkle it with bread-crumbs; pour in the paste, place the pan upon hot -cinders, with fire upon the lid, and let it remain for three-quarters of an -hour, or it may be baked in an oven. - - -POTATO CHEESE.--Potato cheeses are very highly esteemed in Germany; they -can be made of various qualities, but care must be taken that they are not -too rich and have not too much heat, or they will burst. Boil the potatoes -till they are soft, but the skin must not be broken. The potatoes must be -large and of the best quality. When boiled, carefully peel them and beat -them to a smooth paste in a mortar with a wooden pestle. To make the -commonest cheese, put five pounds of potato paste into a cheese-tub with -one pound of milk and rennet; add a sufficient quantity of salt, together -with caraways and cumin seed sufficient to impart a good flavour. Knead -all these ingredients well together, cover up and allow them to stand three -or four days in winter, two to three in summer. At the end of that time -knead them again, put the paste into wicker moulds, and leave the cheeses -to drain until they are quite dry. When dry and firm, lay them on a board -and leave them to acquire hardness gradually in a place of very moderate -warmth; should the heat be too great, as we have said, they will burst. -When, in spite of all precautions, such accidents occur, the crevices of -the burst cheeses are, in Germany, filled with curds and cream mixed, some -being also put over the whole surface of the cheese, which is then dried -again. As soon as the cheeses are thoroughly dry and hard, place them in -barrels with green chickweed between each cheese; let them stand for about -three weeks, when they will be fit for use. - - -POTATOES A LA BARIGOULE.--Peel some potatoes and boil them in a little -water with some oil, pepper, salt, onions, and savoury herbs. Boil them -slowly, so that they can absorb the liquor; when they are done, brown them -in a stew-pan in a little oil, and serve them to be eaten with oil and -vinegar, pepper and salt. - - -POTATOES, BROILED.--Potatoes are served this way sometimes in Italy. They -are first boiled in their skins, but not too long. They are then taken out -and peeled, cut into thin slices, placed on a gridiron, and grilled till -they are crisp. A little oil is poured over them when they are served. - - -POTATOES A LA LYONNAISE.--First boil and then peel and slice some potatoes. -Make some rather thin puree of onion. (_See_ SAUCE SOUBISE.) Pour this -over the potatoes and serve. - -Another way is to first brown the slices of potatoes and then serve them -with the onion sauce, with the addition of a little vinegar or lemon-juice. - - -POTATOES A LA PROVENCALE.--Put a small piece of butter into a stew-pan, or -three tablespoonfuls of oil, three beads of garlic, the peel of a quarter -of a lemon, and some parsley, all chopped up very fine; add a little grated -nutmeg, pepper and salt. Peel some small potatoes and let them stew till -they are tender in this mixture. Large potatoes can be used for the -purpose, only they must be cut tip into pieces. Add the juice of a lemon -before serving. - - -HARICOT BEANS.--It is very much to be regretted that haricot beans are not -more used in this country. There are hundreds of thousands of families who -at the end of a year would be richer in purse and more healthy in body if -they would consent to deviate from the beaten track and try haricot beaus, -not as an accompaniment to a dish of meat, but as an article of diet in -themselves. The immense benefit derived in innumerable cases from a diet -of beans is one of the strongest and most practical arguments in favour of -vegetarianism. Meat-eaters often boast of the plainness of their food, and -yet wonder that they suffer in health. It is not an uncommon thing for a -man to consult his doctor and to tell him, "I live very simply, nothing but -plain roast or boiled." - -Medical men are all agreed on one point, and that is that haricot beans -rank almost first among vegetables as a nourishing article of diet. In -writing on this subject, Sir Henry Thompson observes, "Let me recall, at -the close of these few hints about the haricot, the fact that there is no -product of the vegetable kingdom so nutritious, holding its own, in this -respect, as it well can, even against the beef and mutton of the animal -kingdom." - -This is a very strong statement, coming as it does from so high an -authority, and vegetarians would do well to hear it in mind when discussing -the subject of vegetarianism with those who differ from them. Sir Henry -proceeds as follows:--"The haricot ranks just above lentils, which have -been so much praised of late, and rightly, the haricot being to most -palates more agreeable. By most stomachs, too, haricots are more easily -digested than meat is; and, consuming weight for weight, the eater feels -lighter and less oppressed, as a rule, after the leguminous dish, while the -comparative cost is very greatly in favour of the latter." - -To boil haricot beans proceed as follows. We refer, of course, to the -dried white haricot beans, the best of which are those known as Soissons. -The beans should be soaked in cold water overnight, and in the morning any -that may be found floating on the top of the water should be thrown away. -Suppose the quantity be a quart; place these in a saucepan with two quarts -of cold water, slightly salted. As soon as time water conies to the boil, -move it so that the beans will only simmer gently; they must then continue -simmering till they are tender. This generally takes about three hours, -and if the water is hard, it is advisable to put in a tiny piece of soda. -This is the simple way of cooking beans usually recommended in -cookery-books when they are served up with a dish of meat, such as a leg of -mutton a la Bretonne, where the beans are served in some rich brown gravy -containing fat. In vegetarian cookery, of course, we must proceed entirely -differently, and there are various ways in which this nourishing dish can -be served, as savoury and as appetising, and indeed more so, than if we had -assistance from the slaughter-house. We will now proceed to give a few -instances. - -In the first place, it will greatly assist the flavour of the beans if we -boil with them one or two onions and a dessertspoonful of savoury herbs. -Supposing, however, we have them boiled plain. Take a large dry crust of -bread and rub the outside well over with one or two beads of garlic. Place -this crust of bread with the beans after they have been strained off, and -toss them lightly about with the crust without breaking the beans. Remove -the crust and moisten the beans while hot with a lump of butter, add a -brimming dessertspoonful of chopped blanched parsley; squeeze the juice of -a lemon over the whole, and serve. Instead of butter we can add, as they -always do in Italy, two or three tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Those -who have conquered the unreasonable English prejudice against the use of -oil will probably find this superior to butter. - -If the beans are served in the form of a puree, it is always best to boil a -few onions with them and rub the onions through the wire sieve with the -beans, taking care that the quantity of onion is not so large that it -destroys and overpowers the delicate and delicious flavour of the beans -themselves. - -Next, we would call attention to the importance of not throwing away the -water in which the beans were boiled. This water contains far more -nourishment than people are aware of, and throughout the length and breadth -of France, where economy is far more understood than in this country, it is -invariably saved to assist in making some kind of soup, and as our soup -will, of course, be vegetarian, the advantage gained is simply -incalculable. - - -FLAGEOLETS.--These are haricot beans in the fresh green state, and are -rarely met with in this country, though they form a standing dish abroad. -They are exceedingly nice, and can be cooked in a little butter like the -French cook green peas. They are often flavoured with garlic, and chopped -parsley can be added to them. Those who are fond of this vegetable in the -fresh state can obtain them in tins from any high-class grocer, as the -leading firms in this country keep them in this form for export. - - -PEAS, DRIED.--Dried peas, like dried beans, contain a very great amount of -nourishment. Indeed, in this respect, practically, dried beans, dried -peas, and lentils may be considered equal. Dried peas are met with in two -forms--the split yellow pea and those that are dried whole, green. Split -peas are chiefly used in this country to make pea soup, or puree of peas -and peas pudding. We have already given recipes for the two former, and -will now describe how to make-- - - -PEAS PUDDING.--Soak a quart of peas in water overnight, throwing away those -in the morning that are found floating at the top. Drain them off and tie -them up in a pudding-cloth, taking care to leave plenty of room for the -peas to swell; put them into cold water, and boil them till they are -tender. This will take from two to three hours. When tender, take them -out, untie the cloth, and rub them through a colander, or, better still, a -wire sieve. Now mix in a couple of ounces of butter with some pepper and -salt, flour the cloth well and tie it up again and boil it for another -hour, when it can be turned out and served. Peas pudding when eaten alone -is improved by mixing in, at the same time as the butter, a dessertspoonful -of dried powdered mint, also, should you have the remains of any cold -potatoes in the house, it is a very good way of using them up. A few -savoury herbs can be used instead of mint. - - -PEAS "BROSE."--Dr. Andrew, in writing to the "Cyclopaedia of Domestic -Medicine," says, "In the West of Scotland, especially in Glasgow, 'peas -brose,' as it is called, is made of the fine flour of the white pea, by -forming it into a mass merely by the addition of boiling water and a little -salt. It is a favourite dish with not only the working classes, but it is -even esteemed by many of the gentry. It was introduced into fashion -chiefly by the recommendation of Dr. Cleghorn, late Professor of Chemistry -in Glasgow University. The peas brose is eaten with milk or butter, and is -a sweet, nourishing article of diet peculiarly fitted for persons of a -costive habit and for children." - - -PEAS, DRIED WHOLE, GREEN.--This is perhaps the best form with which we meet -peas dried. When the best quality is selected, and care taken in their -preparation, they are quite equal to fresh green peas when they are old. -Indeed, many persons prefer them. - -Soak the peas overnight, throwing away those that float at the top; put -them into cold water, and when they boil let the peas simmer gently till -they are tender. The time varies very much with the quality and the size -of the peas, old ones requiring nearly three hours, others considerably -less. When the peas are tender, throw in some sprigs, if possible, of -fresh mint, and after a minute strain them off; add pepper, salt, and about -two ounces of butter to a quart of peas--though this is not absolutely -necessary--and nearly a dessertspoonful of white powdered sugar. - -If you wish to have the peas as bright a green as freshly gathered ones, -after you strain them off you can mix them in a basin, before you add the -butter, with a little piece of green vegetable colouring (sold in bottles -by all grocers). The peas should then be put back in the saucepan for a -few minutes to be made hot through, and then finished as directed before. - - -PEAS, DRIED, GREEN, WITH CREAM.--Boil the peas as before directed till they -are quite tender, then strain them off and put them in a stew-pan with one -ounce of butter to every quart of peas and toss them lightly about with a -little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Add to each quart of peas a -quarter of a pint of cream and a dessertspoonful of powdered sugar; -surround the dish with fried or toasted bread. - -LENTILS.--Lentils are, comparatively speaking, a novel form of food in this -country, though they have been used abroad for many years, and a recipe for -cooking them will be found in a well-known work, published in Paris in -1846, entitled "_La Cuisiniere de la Campagne et de la Ville; ou, Nouvelle -Cuisine Economique_," one of the most popular French cookery-books ever -published, and which in that year had reached a circulation of 80,000 -copies. - -Recipes for boiled lentils and lentil soup are given in "Cassell's -Dictionary of Cookery," published in 1875; but it is stated in the -introductory remarks that lentils are little used in England except as food -for pigeons, and adds, "They are seldom offered for sale." Since that date -lentils have become an exceedingly popular form of food in many households, -and vegetarians generally regard them as one of the most nourishing forms -of food served at the table. There are two kinds of lentils, the German -and Egyptian. The Egyptian are red and much smaller than the German, which -are green. The former kind are generally used on the Continent, in Italy -and the South of France, while, as the name implies, the green lentils are -more commonly used in Eastern Europe. Either kind, however, can be used -for making soup and puree, recipes of which have already been given, as -well as for the recipes in the present chapter. - - -LENTILS, BOILED.--The lentils should be placed in soak overnight, and those -that float should be thrown away. Suppose we have half a pint of lentils, -they should be boiled in about a pint and a half of water. Boil them till -they are tender, which will take about half an hour, then drain them off -and put them back in the saucepan for a few minutes with a little piece of -butter, squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon, and serve hot. Some -people make a little thickened sauce with yolks of eggs and a little butter -and flour mixed with the water in which they are boiled. - - -LENTILS, CURRIED.--Lentils are very nice curried. Boil the lentils as -directed above till they are tender. When they are placed in a -vegetable-dish make deep well in the centre and pour some thick curry sauce -into it. (_See_ CURRY SAUCE.) - - -LENTILS A LA PROVENCALE.--Soak the lentils overnight and put them into a -stew-pan with five or six spoonfuls of oil, a little butter, some slices of -onion, some chopped parsley, and a teaspoonful of mixed savoury herbs. -Stew them in this till the lentils are tender, and then thicken the sauce -with yolks of eggs, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and serve. - -N.B.--Haricot beans can be cooked in a similar manner. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -VEGETABLES, FRESH. - - -ARTICHOKES, FRENCH, PLAIN BOILED.--Put the artichokes to soak in some well -salted water, upside down, as otherwise it is impossible to get rid of the -insects that are sometimes hidden in the leaves. Trim off the ends of the -leaves and the stalk, and all the hard leaves round the bottom should be -pulled off. Put the artichokes into a saucepan of boiling water -sufficiently deep to nearly cover them. The tips of the leaves are best -left out; add a little salt, pepper, and a spoonful of savoury herbs to the -water in which they are boiled. French cooks generally add a piece of -butter. Boil them till they are tender. The time depends upon the size, -but you can always tell when they are done by pulling out a single leaf. -If it comes out easily the artichokes are done. Drain them off, and -remember in draining them to turn them upside down. Some kind of sauce is -generally served with artichokes separately in a boat, such as butter -sauce, sauce Allemande, or Dutch sauce. - - -ARTICHOKES, BROILED.--Parboil the artichokes and take out the part known as -the choke. In the hollow place a little chopped parsley and light-coloured -bread-raspings soaked in olive oil. Place the bottoms of the artichokes on -a gridiron with narrow bars over a clear fire, and serve them as soon a -they are thoroughly hot through. - - -ARTICHOKES, FRIED.--The bottoms of artichokes after being boiled can be -dipped in batter and fried. - - -ARTICHOKES A LA PROVENCALE.--Parboil the artichokes and remove the choke, -and put them in the oven in a tin with a little oil, pepper and salt, and -three or four heads of garlic, whole. Let them bake till they are tender, -turning them over in the oil occasionally; then take out the garlic and -serve them with the oil poured over them, and add the juice of a lemon. - - -ARTICHOKES, JERUSALEM, BOILED, PLAIN.--The artichokes must be first washed -and peeled, and should be treated like potatoes in this respect. They -should be thrown into cold water immediately, and it is best to add a -little vinegar to the water. If the artichokes are young, throw them into -boiling water, and they will become tender in about a quarter of an hour or -twenty minutes. It is very important not to over-boil them, as they turn a -bad colour. If any doubt exists as to the age of the artichokes, they had -better be tested with a fork. Immediately they are tender they should be -drained and served. - -Old artichokes must be treated like old potatoes, _i.e._, put originally -into cold water, and when they come to the boiling point allowed to simmer -till tender; but these are best mashed. When the artichokes have been -drained, they can, of course, be served quite plain, but they are best sent -to table with some kind of sauce poured over them, such as Allemande sauce, -Dutch sauce, white sauce, or plain butter sauce. They are greatly improved -in appearance, after a spoonful of sauce has been poured over each -artichoke, if a little blanched chopped parsley is sprinkled over them, and -a few red specks made by colouring a pinch of bread-crumbs by shaking them -with a few drops of cochineal. - -Another very nice way of sending artichokes to table is to place all the -artichokes together in a vegetable-dish, and, after pouring a little white -sauce over each artichoke, to place a fresh-boiled bright green Brussels -sprout between each. The white and green contrast very prettily. - - -JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, FRIED.--Peel and slice the artichokes very thin; -throw these slices into smoking hot oil in which a frying-basket has been -placed. As soon as the artichokes are of bright golden-brown colour, lift -out the frying-basket, shake it while you pepper and salt the artichokes, -and serve very hot. They can be eaten with thin brown bread-and-butter and -lemon-juice, and form a sort of vegetarian whitebait. - - -ARTICHOKES, MASHED.--These are best made from old artichokes. They must be -rubbed through a wire sieve, and the strings left behind. It is best to -mash them up with a little butter, and a spoonful or two of cream is a very -great improvement. - - -ASPARAGUS, BOILED.--Cut the asparagus all the same length by bringing the -green points together, and then trimming the stalks level with a sharp -knife. Throw the asparagus into boiling salted water. Time, from fifteen -to twenty-five minutes, according to thickness. Serve on dry toast, and -send butter sauce to table separate in a tureen. - - -BEANS, BROAD, PLAIN BOILED.--Broad beans, if eaten whole, should be quite -young. They should be thrown into boiling water, salted. They require -about twenty minutes to boil before they are tender. Serve with parsley -and butter sauce. - - -BROAD BEANS, MASHED.--When broad beans get old, the only way to serve them -is to have them mashed. Boil them, and remove the skins, then mash them up -with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and rub them through a wire sieve, -make them hot, and serve. You can if you like boil a few green onions and -a pinch of savoury herbs with the beans, and rub these through the wire -sieve as well. This dish is very cheap and very nourishing. Very young -beans, like very young peas, are more nice than economical. - - -BEANS A LA POULETTE.--Boil some young beans till they are tender, and put -them into a saucepan with a little butter, sugar, pepper, and salt, and -sufficient flour to prevent the butter cooking oily; stew them in this a -short time, _i.e._, till they appear to begin to boil, as the water from -the beans will mix with the butter and flour and look like thin butter -sauce thicken this with one or two yolks of eggs, and serve. - - -BEANS A LA BOURGEOISE.--Place the beans in a saucepan, with a piece of -butter, a small quantity of shallot chopped fine, and a teaspoonful of -savoury herbs; toss them about in this a little time, and then add a little -water, sufficient to moisten them so that they can stew; add a little -sugar, and when tender thicken the water with some beaten-up egg. - - -BEANS, FRENCH, PLAIN BOILED.--French beans are only good when fresh -gathered, and the younger they are the better. When small they can be -boiled whole, in which case they only require the tips cut off and the -string that runs down the side removed. When they are more fully grown -they will require, in addition to being trimmed in this manner, to be cut -into thin strips, and when very old it will be found best to cut them -slanting. They must be thrown into boiling salted water, and boiled till -they are tender. The time for boiling varies with the age; very young ones -will not take more than a quarter of an hour, and if old ones are not -tender in half an hour they had better be made into a puree. As soon as -the beans are tender, drain them off, and serve them very hot; the chief -point to bear in mind, if we wish to have our beans nice, is, they must be -eaten directly they are drained from the water in which they are boiled. -They are spoilt by what is called being kept hot, and possess a marvellous -facility of getting cold in a very short space of time. - -In vegetarian cookery, when beans are eaten without being an accompaniment -to meat, some form of fat is desirable. When the beans are drained we can -add either butter or oil. When a lump of _Maitre d'hotel_ butter is added -they form what the French call _haricots vert a la Maitre d'hotel_. In -this case, a slight suspicion of garlic may be added by rubbing the -stew-pan in which the French beans are tossed together with the _Maitre -d'hotel butter_. When oil is added, a little chopped parsley will be found -an improvement, as well as pepper, salt, and a suspicion of nutmeg. - -French beans are very nice flavoured with oil and garlic, and served in a -border of macaroni. - - -FRENCH BEAN PUDDING.--When French beans are very old they are sometimes -made into a pudding as follows:--They must be trimmed, cut up, boiled, with -or without the addition of a few savoury herbs. They must be then mashed -in a basin, tied up in a well-buttered and then floured cloth, and boiled -for some time longer. The pudding can then be turned out. A still better -way of making a French bean pudding is to rub the beans through the wire -sieve, leaving the strings behind, flavouring the pudding with a few -savoury herbs, a little sugar, pepper, and salt, and, if liked, a suspicion -of garlic; add one or two well-beaten-up eggs, and put the mixture in a -round pudding-basin, and bake it till it sets. This can be turned out on -the centre of a dish, and a few young French beans placed round the base to -ornament it, in conjunction with some pieces of fried bread cut into pretty -shapes. - - -BROCOLI.--Trim the outer leaves off a brocoli, and cut off the stalk even, -so that it will stand upright. Soak the brocoli in salt and water for some -time, in order to get rid of any insects. Throw the brocoli into boiling -water that has been salted, and boil till it is tender, the probable time -for young brocoli being about a quarter of an hour. It should be served on -a dish with the flower part uppermost; and butter sauce, sauce Allemande, -or Dutch sauce can be served separately, or poured over the surface. - -When several heads of brocoli are served at once, it is important to cut -the stalks flat, as directed, before boiling. After they have been -thoroughly drained _upside down_, they should be placed on the dish, flower -part uppermost, and placed together as much as possible to look like one -large brocoli. If sauce is poured over them, the sauce should be -sufficiently thick to be spread, and every part of the flower should be -covered. Half a teaspoonful of chopped blanched parsley may be sprinkled -over the top, and improves the appearance of the dish. - -N.B.--We would particularly call attention to the importance of draining -brocoli and cauliflower very thoroughly, especially when any sauce is -served with the brocoli. When the dish is cut into, nothing looks more -disagreeable than to see the white sauce running off the brocoli into green -water at the bottom of the dish. - - -BROCOLI GREENS.--The outside leaves of brocoli should not be thrown away, -but eaten. Too often they are trimmed off at the greengrocer's or at the -market, and, we presume, utilised for the purpose of feeding cattle. They -can be boiled exactly like white cabbages, and are equal to them, if not -superior, in flavour. To boil them, _see_ CABBAGE, WHITE, LARGE. - - -BRUSSELS SPROUTS.--These must be first washed in cold water and all the -little pieces of decayed leaves trimmed away. Throw them into boiling -salted water; the water must be kept boiling the whole time, without a lid -on the saucepan, and if the quantity of water be sufficiently large not to -be taken off the boil by the sprouts being thrown in they will be sent to -table of a far brighter green colour than otherwise. In order to ensure -this, throw in the sprouts a few at a time, picking out the big ones to -throw in first. Sprouts, as soon as they are tender--probable time a -quarter of an hour--should be drained and served _quickly_. When served as -a dish by themselves, after being drained off, they can be placed in a -stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon-juice. They -can then be served with toasted or fried bread. - - -CABBAGE, PLAIN BOILED.--Ordinary young cabbages should be first trimmed by -having the outside leaves removed, the stalks cut off, and then should be -cut in halves and allowed to soak some time in salt and water. They should -be thrown into plenty of boiling water; the water should be kept boiling -and uncovered. As soon as they are tender they should be strained off and -served immediately. Young summer cabbages will not take longer than a -quarter of an hour, or even less; old cabbages take nearly double that -time. It is impossible to lay down any exact rule with regard to time. -Savoys generally take about half an hour. The large white cabbages met -with in the West of England take longer and require a different treatment. - -When cabbage is served as a dish by itself it will be found a great -improvement to add either butter or oil to moisten the cabbage after it is -thoroughly drained off. In order to ensure the butter not oiling, but -adhering to the cabbage, it is best after the butter is added, and while -you mix it with the cabbage, to shake the flour-dredger two or three times -over the vegetable. In Germany, many add vinegar and sugar to the cabbage. - - -CABBAGE, LARGE WHITE.--In the West of England cabbages grow to an immense -size, owing, probably, to the moist heat, and have been exhibited in -agricultural shows over twenty pounds in weight and as big as an eighteen -gallon cask. These cabbages are best boiled as follows:--After being cut -up and thoroughly washed, it will be found that the greater part of the -cabbage resembles what in ordinary cabbage would be called stalk, and, of -course, the leaves vary very considerably in thickness from the hard stalk -end up to the leaf. Have plenty of boiling water ready salted, now cut off -the stalk part where it is thickest and throw this in first. Wait till the -water comes to the boil again and let it boil for a few minutes. Then -throw in the next thickest part and again wait till the water re-boils, and -so on, reserving the thin leafy part to be thrown in last of all. By this -means, and this only, do we get the cabbage boiled uniformly. Had we -thrown in all at once one of two things would be inevitable--either the -stalk would be too hard to be eaten or the leafy part over-boiled. A large -white cabbage takes about an hour to boil tender, and a piece of soda -should be added to the water. When the cabbage is well drained, it can be -served either plain or moistened, and made to look oily by the addition of -a piece of butter. As the cabbage is very white, the dish is very much -improved by the addition of a little chopped parsley sprinkled over the -top, not for the sake of flavour but appearance. - - -CABBAGE AND CREAM.--Ordinary cabbages are sometimes served stewed with a -little cream. They should be first parboiled, then the moisture squeezed -from them, and then they must be put in a stew-pan with a little butter, -pepper, salt and nutmeg, and a spoonful of flour should be shaken over the -cabbage in order to prevent the butter being too oily. When the cabbage is -stewed till it is perfectly tender, add a few spoonfuls of cream, stir up, -and make the whole thoroughly hot, and serve with fried or toasted bread. - - -CABBAGE, RED.--Red cabbages are chiefly used for pickling. They are -sometimes served fresh. They should be cut across so that the cabbage -shreds, boiled till they are tender, the moisture thoroughly extracted, and -then put into a stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and a few -shakes of flour from the flour-dredger. After stirring for ten minutes or -a quarter of an hour, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them and serve. - - -CARROTS, BOILED.--When carrots are boiled and served as a course by -themselves, they ought to be young. This dish is constantly met with -abroad in early summer, but is rarely seen in England, except at the tables -of vegetarians. The carrots should be trimmed, thoroughly washed, and, if -necessary, slightly scraped, and the point at the end, which looks like a -piece of string, should be cut off. They should be thrown into fast -boiling water (salted) in order to preserve their colour. When tender they -can be served with some kind of good white sauce, or sauce Allemande or -Dutch sauce. Perhaps this latter sauce is best of all, as it looks like -rich custard. Part of the red carrot should show uncovered by any sauce. -They are best placed in a circle and the thick sauce poured in the centre; -a very little chopped blanched parsley can be sprinkled on the top of the -sauce. In making Dutch sauce for carrots use lemon-juice instead of -tarragon vinegar. - - -CARROTS, FRIED.--Fried carrots can be made from full-grown carrots. They -must be first parboiled and then cut in slices; they must then be dipped in -well-beaten-up egg, and then covered with fine dry bread-crumbs and fried a -nice brown in smoking hot oil in a frying-basket. The slices of carrot -should be peppered and salted before being dipped in the egg. - - -CARROTS, MASHED.--When carrots are very old they are best mashed. Boil -them for some time, then cut them up and rub them through a wire sieve. -They can be pressed in a basin and made hot by being steamed. A little -butter, pepper and salt should be added to the mixture. A very pretty dish -can be made by means of mixing mashed carrots with mashed turnips. They -can be shaped in a basin, and with a little ingenuity can be put into red -and white stripes. The effect is something like the top of a striped tent. - - -CAULIFLOWER, PLAIN BOILED.--Cauliflowers can be treated in exactly the same -manner as brocoli, and there are very few who can tell the difference. -(_See_ BROCOLI.) - - -CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN.--This is a very nice method of serving cauliflower -as a course by itself. The cauliflower or cauliflowers should first be -boiled till thoroughly tender, very carefully drained, and then placed -upright in a vegetable-dish with the flower part uppermost. The whole of -the flower part should then be _masked_ (_i.e._, covered over) with some -thick white sauce. Allemande sauce or Dutch sauce will do. This is then -sprinkled over with grated Parmesan cheese and the dish put in the oven for -the top to brown. As soon as it _begins_ to brown take it out of the oven -and finish it off neatly with a salamander (a red-hot shovel will do), the -same way you finish cheese-cakes made from curds. - - -CAULIFLOWER AND TOMATO SAUCE.--Boil and place the cauliflower or flowers -upright in a dish as in the above recipe. Now mask all the flower part -very neatly, commencing round the edges first, with some tomato conserve -previously made warm, and serve immediately. This is a very pretty-looking -dish. - - -CELERY, STEWED.--The secret of having good stewed celery is only to cook -the white part. Throw the celery into boiling water, with only sufficient -water just to cover it. When the celery is tender use some of the water in -which it is stewed to make a sauce to serve with it, or better still, stew -the celery in milk. The sauce looks best when it is thickened with the -yolks of eggs. A very nice sauce indeed can be made by first thickening -the milk or water in which the celery is stewed with a little white roux, -and then adding a quarter of a pint of cream boiled separately. Stewed -celery should be served on toast, like asparagus; a little chopped blanched -parsley can be sprinkled over the white sauce by way of ornament, and fried -bread should be placed round the edge of the dish. - -Stewed celery can also be served with sauce Allemande or Dutch sauce. - - -ENDIVE.--Endive is generally used as a salad, but is very nice served as a -vegetable, stewed. White-heart endives should be chosen, and several heads -will be required for a dish, as they shrink very much in cooking. Wash and -clean the endives very carefully in salt and water first, as they often -contain insects. Boil them in slightly salted water till they are tender, -then drain them off, and thoroughly extract the moisture; put them in a -stew-pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, let them stew for -some little time; add the juice of a lemon, and serve. It will make the -dish much prettier if you reserve one head of endive boiled whole. Place -the stewed endive on a dish, and sprinkle some chopped blanched parsley -over it, then place the single head of endive upright in the centre, and -place some fried bread round the edge. - - -LEEKS, STEWED.--Leeks must be trimmed down to where the green part meets -the white on the one side, and the root, where the strings are, cut off on -the other. They should be thrown into boiling water, boiled till they are -tender, and then thoroughly drained. The water in which leeks have been -boiled is somewhat rank and bitter, and, as the leeks are like tubes, in -order to drain them perfectly you must turn them upside down. They can be -served on toast, and covered with some kind of white sauce, either ordinary -white sauce, sauce Allemande, or Dutch sauce. - - -LEEKS, WELSH PORRIDGE.--The leeks are stewed and cut in slices, and served -in some of the liquor in which they are boiled, with toast cut in strips, -something like onion porridge. Boil the leeks for five minutes, drain them -off, and throw away the first water, and then stew them gently in some -fresh water. In years back, in Wales, French plums were stewed with and -added to the porridge. - - -LETTUCES, STEWED.--As lettuces shrink very much when boiled, allowance must -be made, and several heads used. This is also a very good way of utilising -the large old-fashioned English lettuce resembling in shape a gingham -umbrella. They should be first boiled till tender. The time depends -entirely upon the size. Drain them off, and thoroughly extract the -moisture; put them into a stew-pan, with a little butter, pepper, salt, and -nutmeg. Let them stew some little time, and add a little vinegar, or, -still better, lemon-juice. - - -LETTUCES STEWED WITH PEAS.--A border of stewed lettuces can be made as -above, and the centre filled up with some fresh-boiled young green peas. - - -ONIONS, PLAIN BOILED.--When onions are served as a dish by themselves, -Spanish onions are far best for the purpose. Ordinary onions, as a rule, -are too strong to be eaten, except as an accompaniment to some other kind -of food. When onions are plain boiled, they are best served on dry toast -without any sauce at all. Butter can be added when eaten on the plate if -liked. Large Spanish onions will require about three hours to boil tender. - - -ONIONS, BAKED.--Spanish onions can be baked in the oven. They are best -placed in saucers, with a very little butter to prevent them sticking, with -which they can also be basted occasionally. Probable time about three -hours. They should be of a nice brown colour at the finish. - - -ONIONS, STEWED.--Place a large Spanish onion in a saucer at the bottom of -the saucepan, and put sufficient water in the saucepan to reach the edge of -the saucer; keep the lid of the saucepan on tight, and let it steam till -tender. A large onion would take about three hours. The water from the -onion will prevent the necessity of adding fresh water from time to time. - - -PARSNIPS.--Like young carrots, young parsnips are often met with abroad as -a course by themselves. They should be trimmed and boiled whole, and -served with white sauce, Allemande sauce, or Dutch sauce; a little chopped -blanched parsley should be sprinkled over the sauce, and fried bread served -round the edge of the dish. - - -PARSNIPS, FRIED.--Boil some full-grown parsnips till they are tender, cut -them into slices, pepper and salt them, dip them into beaten-up egg, and -cover them with bread-crumbs, and fry these slices in some smoking hot oil -till they are a nice brown colour. - - -PARSNIPS, MASHED.--When parsnips are very old they are best mashed. Boil -them for an hour or more, then cut them up and rub them through a wire -sieve. The stringy part will have to be left behind. Mix the pulp with a -little butter, pepper, and salt; make this hot, and serve. A little cream -is a great improvement. - - -PARSNIP CAKE.--Boil two or three parsnips until they are tender enough to -mash, then press them through a colander with the back of a wooden spoon, -and carefully remove any fibrous, stringy pieces there may be. Mix a -teacupful of the mashed parsnip with a quart of hot milk, add a teaspoonful -of salt, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of yeast, and enough -flour to make a stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains the mixture in a -warm place, cover it with a cloth, and leave it to rise. When it has risen -to twice its original size, knead some more flour into it, and let it rise -again; make it into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and place -these on buttered tins. Let them stand before the fire a few minutes, and -bake them in a hot oven. They do not taste of the parsnip. Time, some -hours to rise; about twenty minutes to bake. - - -PEAS, GREEN.--By far the best and nicest way of cooking green peas when -served as a course by themselves is to stew them gently in a little butter -without any water at all, like they do in France. The peas are first -shelled, and then placed in a stew-pan with a little butter, sufficient to -moisten them. As soon as they are tender, which will vary with the size -and age of the peas, they can be served just as they are. The flavour of -peas cooked this way is so delicious that they are nicest eaten with plain -bread. When old peas are cooked this way it is customary to add a little -white powdered sugar. - - -PEAS, GREEN, PLAIN BOILED.--Shell the peas, and throw them into boiling -water slightly salted. Keep the lid off the saucepan and throw in a few -sprigs of fresh green mint five minutes before you drain them off. Young -peas will take about ten to twenty minutes, and full-grown peas rather -longer. Serve the peas directly they are drained, as they are spoilt by -being kept hot. - - -PEAS, STEWED.--When peas late in the season get old and tough, they can be -stewed. Boil them for rather more than half an hour, throwing them first -of all into boiling water; drain them off, and put them into a stew-pan -with a little butter, pepper, and salt. Young onions and lettuces cut up -can be stewed with them, but young green peas are far too nice ever to be -spoilt by being cooked in this way. - - -SCOTCH KALE.--Scotch kale, or curly greens, as it is sometimes called in -some parts of the country, is cooked like ordinary greens. It should be -washed very carefully, and thrown into fast-boiling salted water. The -saucepan should remain uncovered, as we wish to preserve the dark green -colour. Young Scotch kale will take about twenty minutes to boil before it -is tender. When boiled, if served as a course by itself, it should be -strained off very thoroughly and warmed in a stew-pan with a little butter, -pepper, and salt. - - -SEA KALE.--Sea kale possesses a very delicate flavour, and in cooking it -the endeavour should be to preserve this flavour. Throw the sea kale when -washed into boiling water; in about twenty minutes, if it is young, it will -be tender. Serve it on plain dry toast, and keep all the heads one way. -Butter sauce, white sauce, Dutch sauce, or sauce Allemande can be served -with sea kale, but should be sent to table separate in a boat, as the -majority of good judges prefer the sea kale quite plain. - - -SPINACH.--The chief difficulty to contend with in cooking spinach is the -preliminary cleansing. The best method of washing spinach is to take two -buckets of water. Wash it in one; the spinach will float on the top whilst -the dirt settles at the bottom. Lift the spinach from one pail, after you -have allowed it to settle for a few minutes, into the other pail. One or -two rinsings will be sufficient. Spinach should be picked if the stalks -are large, and thrown into boiling water slightly salted. Boil the spinach -till it is tender, which will take about a quarter of an hour, then drain -it off and cut it very small in a basin with a knife and fork, place it -back in a saucepan with a little piece of butter to make it thoroughly hot, -put it in a vegetable dish and serve. - -Hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, or poached eggs, are usually served with -spinach. A little cream, nutmeg, and lemon-juice can be added. Many cooks -rub the spinach through a wire sieve. - - -VEGETABLE MARROW.--Vegetable marrows must be first peeled, cut open, the -pips removed, and then thrown into boiling water; small ones should be cut -into quarters and large ones into pieces about as big as the palm of the -hand. They take from fifteen to twenty minutes to boil before they are -tender. They should be served directly they are cooked and placed on dry -toast. Butter sauce or white sauce can be served with them, but is best -sent to table separate in a boat, as many persons prefer them plain. - - -VEGETABLE MARROWS, STUFFED.--Young vegetable marrows are very nice stuffed. -They should be first peeled very slightly and then cut, long-ways, into -three zigzag slices; the pips should be removed and the interior filled -with either mushroom forcemeat (_see_ MUSHROOM FORCEMEAT) or sage-and-onion -stuffing made with rather an extra quantity of bread-crumbs. The vegetable -marrow should be tied up with two separate loops of tape about a quarter of -the way from each end, and these two rings of tape tied together with two -or three separate pieces of tape to prevent them slipping off at the ends. -The forcemeat or stuffing should be made hot before it is placed in the -marrow. The vegetable marrow should now be thrown into boiling water and -boiled till it is tender, about twenty minutes to half an hour. Take off -the tape carefully, and be careful to place the marrow so that one half -rests on the other half, or else it will slip. - -N.B.--If you place the stuffing inside cold, the vegetable marrow will -break before the inside gets hot through. - - -TURNIPS, BOILED.--When turnips are young they are best boiled whole. Peel -them first very thinly, and throw them into cold water till they are ready -for the saucepan. Throw them into boiling water slightly salted. They -will probably take about twenty minutes to boil. They can be served quite -plain or with any kind of white sauce, butter sauce, sauce Allemande, or -Dutch sauce. In vegetarian cookery they are perhaps best served with some -other kind of vegetable. - - -TURNIPS, MASHED.--Old turnips are best mashed, as they are stringy. Boil -them till they get fairly tender; they will take from half an hour to two -hours, according to age; then rub them through a wire sieve and warm up the -pulp with a little milk, or still better, cream and a little butter; add -pepper and salt. - -N.B.--If the pulp be very moist let it stand and get rid of the moisture -gradually in a frying-pan over a very slack fire. - - -TURNIPS, ORNAMENTAL.--A very pretty way of serving young turnips in -vegetarian cookery is to cut them in halves and scoop out the centre so as -to form cups; the part scooped out can be mixed with some carrot cut up -into small pieces, and some green peas, and placed in the middle of a dish -in a heap; the half-turnips forming cups can be placed round the base of -the dish and each cup filled alternately with the red part of the carrot, -chopped small and piled up, and a spoonful of green peas. This makes a -very pretty dish of mixed vegetables. - - -TURNIP-TOPS.--Turnip-tops, when fresh cut, make very nice and wholesome -greens. They should be thrown into boiling water and boiled for about -twenty minutes, when they will be tender. They should then be cut up with -a knife and fork very finely and served like spinach. If rubbed through a -wire sieve and a little spinach extract mixed with them to give them the -proper colour, and served with hard-boiled eggs, there are very few persons -who can distinguish the dish from eggs and spinach. - - -VEGETABLE CURRY.--A border made of all kinds of mixed vegetables is very -nice sent to table with some good thick curry sauce poured in the centre. - - -NETTLES, TO BOIL.--The best time to gather nettles for eating purposes is -in the early spring. They are freely eaten in many parts of the country, -as they are considered excellent for purifying the blood. The young -light-green leaves only should be taken. They must be washed carefully and -boiled in two waters, a little salt and a very small piece of soda being -put in the last water. When tender, turn them into a colander, press the -water from them, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, score them across -three or four times, and serve. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. -Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil. - - -SALSIFY.--Scrape the salsify and throw it into cold water with a little -vinegar. Then throw it into boiling water, boil til tender, and serve on -toast with white sauce. Time to boil, about one hour. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -PRESERVED VEGETABLES AND FRUITS. - - -Vegetables and fruits are preserved in two ways. We can have them -preserved both in bottles and tins, but the principle is exactly the same -in both cases, the method of preservation being simply that of excluding -the air. We will not enter into the subject of how to preserve fruit and -vegetables, but will confine ourselves to discussing as briefly as possible -the best method of using them when they are preserved. - -Unfortunately there exists a very unreasonable prejudice on the part of -many persons against all kinds of provisions that are preserved in tins. -This prejudice is kept alive by stories that occasionally get into print -about families being poisoned by using tinned goods. We hear stories also -of poisoning resulting from using copper vessels. Housekeepers should -endeavour to grasp the idea that the evil is the result of their own -ignorance, and that no danger would accrue were they possessed of a little -more elementary knowledge of chemistry. If a penny be dipped in vinegar -and exposed to the air, and is then licked by a child, a certain amount of -ill effect would undoubtedly ensue, but it does not follow that we should -give up the use of copper money. So, too, if we use tinned goods, and -owing to our own carelessness or ignorance find occasionally that evil -results ensue, we should not give up the use of the goods in question, but -endeavour to find out the cause why these evil results follow only -occasionally. - -All good cooks know, or ought to know, that if they leave the soup all -night in a saucepan the soup is spoilt. Again, all housekeepers know that -although they have a metal tank, they are bound to have a wooden lid on -top, there being a law to this effect. The point they forget in using -tinned goods is this, so long as the air is excluded from the interior of -the tin no chemical action goes on whatever. When, therefore, they open -the tin, if they turn out the contents at once no harm can ensue. -Unfortunately, there are many thousands who will open a tin, take out what -they want, and _leave the remainder in the tin_. Of course, they have only -themselves to blame should evil result. - -Preserved vegetables are so useful that they are inseparable from civilised -cookery; for instance, what would a French cook do were he dependent for -his mushrooms upon these fresh grown in the fields? The standard dish at -vegetarian restaurants is mushroom pie, and, thanks to tinned mushrooms, we -can obtain this dish all the year round. In most restaurants peas are on -the bill of fare throughout the year. Were we dependent upon fresh grown -ones, this popular dish would be confined almost to a few weeks. - -In the case of preserved goods, tinned fruits are even more valuable than -tinned vegetables. Ripe apricots and peaches picked fresh from the tree -are expensive luxuries that in this country can only be indulged in by the -rich, whereas, thanks to the art of preserving, we are enabled to enjoy -them all the year round. We will run briefly through a few of the chief -vegetables and fruits, and give a few hints how to best use them. First of -all-- - - -ASPARAGUS, TINNED.--Place the tin in the saucepan with sufficient cold -water to cover it. Bring the water to a boil and let it boil for five -minutes; take out the tin and cut it open round the edge, as near to the -edge as possible, otherwise you will be apt to break the asparagus in -turning it out. Drain off the liquor and serve the asparagus on freshly -made hot toast. There is much less waste as a rule in tinned asparagus -than in that freshly cut. As a rule, you can eat nearly the whole of it. - - -PEAS, TINNED.--Put the tin before it is opened into cold water, bring the -water to a boil, and let it boil five minutes, or longer if the tin is a -large one. Cut open the tin at the top, pour out the liquor, and serve the -peas with a few sprigs of fresh mint, if it can be obtained, that have been -boiled for two or three minutes. Supposing the tin to contain a pint of -peas, add while the peas are thoroughly hot a brimming saltspoonful of -finely powdered sugar, and half a saltspoonful of salt. If the peas are to -be eaten by themselves, as is generally the case with vegetarians, add a -good-sized piece of butter. - - -FRENCH BEANS, TINNED.--These can be treated in exactly similar manner to -green peas, only, instead of adding mint, add a little chopped blanched -parsley; the same quantity of sugar and salt should be added as in the case -of peas. After the butter has melted, it is a great improvement, when the -beans are eaten as a course by themselves, with bread, if the juice of half -a lemon is added. - - -FLAGEOLETS, TINNED.--For this delicious vegetable, in England, we are -dependent upon tinned goods, as we cannot recall an instance in which they -can be bought freshly gathered. Warm up the beans in the tin by placing -the tin in cold water, bringing the water to a boil, and letting it boil -for five minutes. Drain off the liquor, add a saltspoonful of sugar, half -a one of salt, and a lump of butter. Instead of butter, you can add to -each pint two tablespoonfuls of pure olive oil. Many persons consider it a -great improvement to rub the vegetable-dish with a bead of garlic. In this -case the beans should be tossed about in the dish for a minute or two. - - -BRUSSELS SPROUTS, TINNED.--The tin should be made hot before it is opened, -the liquor drained off, and the sprouts placed in a dish, with a little -butter or oil, powdered sugar, salt, pepper, and a slight flavouring of -nutmeg. In France, in some parts, a little cream is poured over them. - - -SPINACH, TINNED.--Spinach is sold in tins fairly cheap, and, quoting from -the list of a large retail establishment where prices correspond with those -of the Civil Service Stores, a tin of spinach can be obtained for -fivepence-halfpenny. The spinach should be made very hot in the tin, -turned out on to a dish, and hard-boiled eggs, hot, cut in halves, added. -Some people add also a little vinegar, but, unless persons' tastes are -known beforehand, that is best added on the plate. - - -CARROTS, TINNED.--Young carrots can be obtained in tins, and, as only young -carrots are nice when served as a course by themselves, these will be found -a valuable addition to the vegetarian store-cupboard. Make the carrots hot -in the tin, and let the water boil, for quite ten minutes after it comes to -the boiling point. Drain off the liquor, and serve them with some kind of -white sauce exactly as if they were freshly boiled young carrots. - - -TURNIPS, TINNED.--Proceed exactly the same as in the case of carrots. - - -FOND D'ARTICHOKE.--These consist of the bottom part only of French -artichokes. They should be made hot in the tin, and served up with some -good butter sauce, and cut lemon separate, as many prefer the artichokes -plain. - - -MACEDOINES.--This, as the word implies, is a mixture of various vegetables, -the chief of which are generally chopped-up carrot and turnip with young -green peas. A very nice dish which can be served at a very short notice, -if you have curry sauce in bottles, is a dish of vegetable curry. The -macedoines should be made hot in the tin, the liquor drained off, and the -curry sauce, made hot, should be poured into a well made in the centre of -the macedoines in the dish. Macedoines are also very useful, as they can -be served as a vegetable salad at a moment's notice, as the vegetables are -sufficiently cooked without being made hot. - - -TINNED FRUITS.--Tinned fruits are ready for eating directly the tin is -opened. All we have to bear in mind is to turn them all out of the tin on -to a dish immediately. Do not leave any in the tin to be used at another -time. Most tinned fruits can be served just as they are, in a glass dish, -but a great improvement can be made in their appearance at a very small -cost and with a very little extra trouble if we always have in the house a -little preserved angelica and a few dried cherries. As these cost about a -shilling or one and fourpence per pound, and even a quarter of a pound is -sufficient to ornament two or three dozen dishes, the extra expense is -almost nil. - - -APRICOTS, TINNED.--Pile the apricots up, with the convex side uppermost, in -a glass dish, reserving one cup apricot to go on the top, with the concave -side uppermost. Take a few preserved cherries, and cut them in halves, and -stick half a cherry in all the little holes or spaces where the apricots -meet. Cut four little green leaves out of the angelica about the size of -the thumb-nail, only a little longer; the size of a filbert would perhaps -describe the size better. Put a whole cherry in the apricot cup at the -top, and four green leaves of angelica round it. Take the white kernel of -the apricot--one or two will always be found in every tin--and cut four -white slices out of the middle, place these round the red cherry, touching -the cherry, and resting between the four green leaves of angelica; the top -of this dish has now the appearance of a very pretty flower. - - -PEACHES, TINNED.--These can be treated in exactly a similar way to the -apricots. - - -PEACHES AND APRICOTS, WITH CREAM.--Place the fruit in a glass dish, with -the concave side uppermost; pour the syrup round the fruit, and with a -teaspoon remove any syrup that may have settled in the little cups, for -such the half-peaches or apricots may be called. Get a small jar of -Devonshire clotted cream; take about half a teaspoonful of cream, and place -it in the middle of each cup, and place a single preserved cherry on the -top of the cream. This dish can be made still prettier by chopping up a -little green angelica, like parsley, and sprinkling a few of these little -green specks on the white cream. - - -PINE-APPLE, TINNED.--Pine-apples are preserved in tins whole, and are very -superior in flavour to those which are sold cheap on barrows, which are -more rotten than ripe. They require very little ornamenting, but the top -is greatly improved by placing a red cherry in the centre, and cutting -eight strips of green angelica like spikes, reaching from the cherry to the -edge of the pine-apple. They should be cut in exact lengths, so as not to -overlap. The top of the pine-apple looks like a green star with a red -centre. - - -PEARS, TINNED.--Tinned pears are exceedingly nice in flavour, but the -drawback to them is their appearance. They look like pale and rather dirty -wax, while the syrup with which they are surrounded resembles the water in -which potatoes have been over-boiled. The prettiest way of sending them to -table is as follows:--Take, say a teacupful of rice, wash it very -carefully, boil it, and let it get dry and cold. Take the syrup from the -pears and taste it, and if not sweet enough add some powdered sugar. Put -the rice in a glass dish, and make a very small well in the centre, and -pour all the syrup into this, so that it soaks into the rice at the bottom -of the dish without affecting the appearance of the surface. In the -meantime, place the pears themselves on a dish, and let the syrup drain off -them, and if you can let them stand for an hour or two to let them dry all -the better. Now, with an ordinary brush, paint these waxy-looking pears a -bright red with a little cochineal, and place these half-pears on the white -rice, slanting, with the thick part downwards and the stalk end uppermost. -Cut a few sticks of green angelica about an inch and a half long and of the -thickness of the ordinary stalk of a pear, and stick one of these into the -stalk end of each pear. The red pear, with the green stalk resting on the -snow-white bed of rice, looks very pretty. A little chopped angelica can -be sprinkled over the white rice, like chopped parsley. - - -FRUITS, BOTTLED.--When apricots and peaches are preserved in bottles, they -can be treated exactly in a similar manner to those preserved in tins. It -will be found advisable, however, to taste the syrup in the bottle, as it -will be often found that it requires the addition of a little more sugar. -Ordinary bottled fruits, such as gooseberries, currants, raspberries, -rhubarb, damsons, cranberries, etc., can be used for making fruit pies, or -they can be sent to table simply as stewed fruit. In this case some -whipped cream on the top is a very great improvement. Another very nice -way of sending these bottled fruits to table is to fill a border made with -rice, as described in Chapter III. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -JELLIES (VEGETARIAN) AND JAMS. - - -By vegetarian jelly we mean jellies made on vegetarian principles. To be -consistent, if we cannot use anchovy sauce because it is made from fish, on -the same principle we cannot use either gelatine or isinglass, which, of -course, as everybody knows, is made from fishes. For all this, there is no -reason why vegetarians should not enjoy jellies quite equal, so far as -flavour is concerned, to ordinary jelly. The simplest substitute for -gelatine, or what is virtually the same thing, isinglass, is corn-flour. -Tapioca could be used, but corn-flour saves much trouble. Some persons may -urge that it is not fair to give the name of jelly to a corn-flour pudding. -There is, however, a very great difference between a corn-flour pudding -flavoured with orange, and what we may call an orange jelly, in which -corn-flour is only introduced, like gelatine, for the purpose of -transforming a liquid into a solid. - -We also have this advantage in using corn-flour: it is much more simple and -can be utilised for making a very large variety of jellies, many of which, -probably, will be new even to vegetarians themselves. We are all agreed on -one point, _i.e._, the wholesomeness of freshly picked ripe fruit. We will -suppose the season to be autumn and the blackberries ripe on the hedgerows, -and that the children of the family are nothing loth to gather, say, a -couple of quarts. We will now describe how to make a mould of-- - - -BLACKBERRY JELLY.--Put the blackberries in an enamelled saucepan with a -little water at the bottom, and let them stew gently till they yield up -their juice, or they can be placed in a jar in the oven. They can now be -strained through a hair sieve, but, still better, they can be squeezed dry -in a tamis cloth. This juice should now be sweetened, and it can be made -into jelly in two ways, both of which are perfectly lawful in vegetarian -cookery. The juice, like red currant juice, can be boiled with a large -quantity of white sugar till the jelly sets of its own accord; in this case -we should require one pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and the result -would be a blackberry jelly like red currant jelly, more like a preserve -than the jelly we are accustomed to eat at dinner alone. For instance, no -one would care to eat a quantity of red currant jelly like we should -ordinary orange or lemon jelly--it would be too sickly; consequently we -will take a pint or a quart of our blackberry juice only and sufficient -sugar to make it agreeably sweet without being sickly. We will boil this -in a saucepan and add a tablespoonful of corn-flour mixed with a little -cold juice to every pint to make the juice thick. This can be now poured -into a mould or plain round basin; we will suppose the latter. When the -jelly has got quite cold we can turn it out on to a dish, say a silver -dish, with a piece of white ornamental paper at the bottom. We now have to -ornament this mould of blackberry jelly, and, as a rule, it will be found -that no ornament can surpass natural ones. Before boiling the blackberries -for the purpose of extracting their juice, pick out two or three dozen of -the largest and ripest, wash them and put them by with some of the young -green leaves of the blackberry plant itself, which should be picked as -nearly as possible of the same size, and, like the blackberries, must be -washed. Now place a row of blackberry leaves round the base of the mould, -with the stalk of the leaf under the mould, and on each leaf place a ripe -blackberry touching the mould itself. Take four very small leaves and -stick them on the top of the mould, in the centre, and put the largest and -best-looking blackberry of all upright in the centre. This dish is now -pretty-looking enough to be served on really great occasions. We consider -this dish worthy of being called blackberry jelly, and not corn-flour -pudding. - - -LEMON JELLY.--Take six lemons and half a pound of sugar, and rub the sugar -on the outside of three of the lemons; the lemons must be hard and yellow, -the peel should not be shrivelled. Now squeeze the juice of all six lemons -into a basin, add the sugar and a pint of water. Of course, the -lemon-juice must be strained. (If wine is allowed, add half a pint of good -golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring this to the boil and thicken it with some -corn-flour in the ordinary way, allowing a tablespoonful of corn-flour for -every pint of fluid. Pour it into a mould and when it is set turn it out. -A lemon jelly like this should be turned on to a piece of ornamental paper -placed at the bottom of a silver or some other kind of dish. The base of -the mould should be ornamented with thin slices of lemon cut in half, the -diameter touching the base of the mould and the semicircular piece of peel -outside. If a round basin has been used for a mould, place a corner of a -lemon on the top in the middle, surrounded with a few imitation green -leaves cut out of angelica. This improves the dish in appearance and also -shows what the dish is made of. - - -ORANGE JELLY.--Take six oranges, two lemons, and half a pound of lump -sugar; rub the sugar on the outside of three of the oranges, squeeze the -juice of the six oranges into a basin with the juice of two lemons, strain, -add the sugar and a pint of water. The liquid will be of an orange colour, -owing to the rind of the orange rubbed on to the sugar. (If wine be -allowed, add half a pint of golden sherry or Madeira.) Bring the liquid to -boiling point and then thicken it with corn-flour, and pour it while hot -into a mould or plain white basin; when cold, turn it out on to a piece of -ornamental paper placed at the bottom of a dish; surround the bottom of the -mould with thin slices of orange cut into quarters and the centre part -pushed under the mould; place the small end of an orange on the top of the -mould with some little leaves or spikes of green angelica placed round the -edge. - - -BLACK CURRANT JELLY.--The juice of black currants makes excellent jelly in -the ordinary way if we boil a pint of black currant juice with a pound of -sugar till it sets; but a mould of black currant jelly suitable to be used -as a sweet at dinner can be made by adding less sugar and thickening the -juice with corn-flour, allowing about a tablespoonful to every pint, and -pouring it into a mould or plain round basin. The mould can be ornamented -as follows, and we will suppose a pudding-basin to be used for the purpose. -We will suppose the mould of jelly to have been turned out on to a clean -sheet of white paper. Pick some of the brighter green black-currant leaves -off the tree, and place these round the base of the mould with the stalk of -the leaf pushed underneath and the point of the leaf pointing outwards. -Now choose a few very small bunches of black currants, wash these and dip -them into very weak gum and water, and then dip them into white powdered -sugar. They now look, when they are dry, as if they were crystallised or -covered with hoar-frost. Place one of these little bunches, with the stalk -stuck into the mould of jelly, about an inch from the bottom, so that each -bunch rests on a green leaf. Cut a small stick of angelica and stick it -into the top of the mould upright, and let a bunch of frosted black -currants hang over the top. If we wish to make the mould of jelly very -pretty as a supper dish, where there is a good top light, we can dip the -green leaves into weak gum and water and then sprinkle over them some -powdered glass. - - -RED CURRANT JELLY.--Red currant jelly can be made in exactly a similar -manner, substituting red currants for black. - - -RASPBERRY JELLY.--The raspberries should be picked very ripe, and two or -three dozen of the best-looking ones of the largest and ripest should be -reserved for ornamenting. If possible, also gather some red currants and -mix with the raspberries, on account of the colour, which otherwise would -be very poor indeed. It will be found best to rub the raspberries through -a hair sieve, as the addition of the pulp very much improves the flavour of -the jelly. The sieve should be sufficiently fine to prevent the pips of -the raspberries passing through it. The juice and pulp from the -raspberries and currants can now be thickened with corn-flour as directed -in the recipe for blackberry jelly. Raspberry leaves should be placed -round the base of the jelly and a ripe raspberry placed on each. The -best-looking raspberry can be placed on the top of the mould in the centre -of two or three raspberry leaves stuck in the jelly. - - -APPLE JAM AND APPLE JELLY.--The following recipe is taken from "A Year's -Cookery," by Phyllis Brown:--"The best time for making apple jelly is about -the middle of November. Almost all kinds of apples may be used for the -purpose, though, if a clear white jelly is wanted, Colvilles or -orange-pippins should be chosen; if red jelly is preferred, very -rosy-cheeked apples should be taken, and the skins should be boiled with -the fruit. Apple jam is made of the fruit after the juice has been drawn -off for jelly. Economical housekeepers will find that very excellent jelly -can be made of apple parings, so that where apples in any quantity have -been used for pies and tarts the skins can be stewed in sufficient water to -cover them, and when the liquor is strongly flavoured it can be strained -and boiled with sugar to a jelly. To make apple jelly, pare, core and -slice the apples and put them into a preserving-pan with enough water to -cover them. Stir them occasionally and stew gently till the apples have -fallen, then turn all into a jelly-bag and strain away the juice, but do -not squeeze or press the pulp. Measure the liquid and allow a pound of -sugar to a pint of juice. Put both juice and sugar back into the -preserving-pan, and, if liked, add one or two cloves tied in muslin, or two -or three inches of lemon-rind. Boil gently and skim carefully for about -half an hour, or till a little of the jelly put upon a plate will set. -Pour it while hot into jars, and when cold and stiff cover down in the -usual way. If yellow jelly is wanted a pinch of saffron tied in muslin -should be boiled with the juice. To make apple jam, weigh the apple pulp -after the juice has been drawn from it, rub it through a hair sieve, and -allow one pound of sugar to one pint of pulp, and the grated rind of a -lemon to three pints of pulp. Boil all gently together till the jam will -set when a little is put on a plate. Apple jam is sometimes flavoured with -vanilla instead of lemon." - - -DAMSON JELLY.--Damson jelly can be made in two ways. The juice can be -boiled with sugar till it gets like red currant jelly, or the juice of the -damsons can be sweetened with less sugar and thickened with corn-flour. In -order to extract the juice from damsons they should be sliced and placed in -a jar or basin and put in the oven. They are best left in the oven all -night. If the mould of jelly is made in a round basin, a single whole -damson can be placed on the top of the mould and green leaves placed round -the base. - - -PINE-APPLE JELLY.--The syrup from a preserved pine, should the pine-apple -itself be used for mixing with other fruits, or for ornamental purposes, -can be utilised by being made into a mould of jelly and by being thickened -with corn-flour. It will bear the addition of a little water. - - -APRICOT JELLY.--The juice from tinned apricots can be treated like that of -pine-apple. When a mixture of fruits is served in a large bowl, the syrup -from tinned fruits should not be added, but at the same time, of course, -should be used in some other way. - - -MULBERRY JELLY.--Mullberries, of course, would not be bought for the -purpose, but those who possess a mulberry tree in their garden will do well -to utilise what are called windfalls by making mulberry jelly. The juice -can be extracted by placing the fruit in a jar and putting it in the oven; -sugar must be added, and the juice thickened with corn-flour. There are -few other ways of using unripe mulberries. - - -JAMS.--Home-made jam is not so common now as it was some years back. As a -rule, it does not answer from an economical point of view to _buy_ fruit to -make jam. On the other hand, those who possess a garden will find -home-made jam a great saving. Those who have attempted to sell their fruit -probably know this to their cost. In making every kind of jam it is -essential the fruit should be picked dry. It is also a time-honoured -tradition that the fruit is best picked when basking in the morning sun. -It is also necessary that the fruit should be free from dust, and that all -decayed or rotten fruit should be carefully picked out. - -Jam is made by boiling the fruit with sugar, and it is false economy to get -common sugar; cheap sugar throws up a quantity of scum. Years back many -persons used brown sugar, but in the present day the difference in the -price of brown and white sugar is so trifling that the latter should always -be used for the purpose. The sugar should not be crushed. It is best to -boil the fruit before adding the sugar. The scum should be removed, and a -wooden spoon used for the purpose. A large enamel stew-pan can be used, -but tradition is in favour of a brass preserving-pan. It will be found -best to boil the fruit as rapidly as possible. The quantity of sugar -varies slightly with the fruit used. Supposing we have a pound of fruit, -the following list gives what is generally considered about the proper -quantity of sugar - -APRICOT JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -BLACKBERRY JAM.--Half a pound; if apple is mixed, rather more. - -BLACK CURRANT JAM.--One pound. - -RED CURRANT JAM.--One pound. - -DAMSON JAM.--One pound. - -GOOSEBERRY JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -GREENGAGE JAM.--Three-quarters of a pound. - -PLUM JAM.--One pound. - -RASPBERRY JAM.--One pound. - -STRAWBERRY JAM.-Three-quarters of a pound. - -CARROT JAM.--If you wish the jam to be of a good colour, only use the -outside or red part of the carrots. Add the rind and the juice of one -lemon, and one pound of sugar to every pound of pulp; a little brandy is a -great improvement. - -RHUBARB JAM.--To every pound of pulp add three-quarters of a pound of -sugar, and the juice of one lemon and the rind of half a lemon. Essence of -almonds can be substituted for the lemon. - -VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.--Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every -pound of pulp. The jam can be flavoured either with ginger or lemon-juice. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -CREAMS, CUSTARDS, AND CHEESE-CAKES. - - -CREAMS.--Creams may be divided into two classes--whipped cream, flavoured -in a variety of ways, and the solid moulds of cream, which when turned out -look extremely elegant, but which when tasted are somewhat disappointing. -These latter moulds owe their firmness and consistency to the addition of -isinglass, and, as this substance is not allowed in vegetarian cookery, we -shall be able to dispense with cream served in this form, nor are we losers -by so doing. The ordinary mould of cream is too apt to taste like spongy -liver, and, so far as palate is concerned, is incomparably inferior to the -more delicate whipped creams. Just in the same way a good rich custard -made with yolks of eggs is spoilt by being turned into a solid custard by -the addition of gelatine. In order to have good whipped cream, the first -essential is to obtain pure cream. This greatly depends upon the -neighbourhood in which we live. In country houses, away from large towns, -there is as a rule no trouble, whereas in London really good cream can only -be obtained with great difficulty. There is a well-known old story of the -London milkman telling the cook who complained of the quality of the cream -to stir it up, as the cream settled at the bottom. We will not enter into -the subject of the adulteration of cream in big cities, as probably many of -these stories are gross exaggerations, though it is said that pigs' brains -and even horses' brains have been used for the purpose of giving the cream -a consistency, while undoubtedly turmeric has been used to give it a -colour. - -We will suppose that we have, say, a quart of really good thick cream. All -that is necessary is to beat up the cream with a whisk till it becomes a -froth. This is much more easily done in cold weather than in hot, and, if -the weather be very warm, it is best to put the tin or pan containing the -cream into ice an hour or two before it is used. Old French cookery-books -recommend the addition of a little powdered gum, not bigger than a pea, and -the gum recommended is that known as tragacanth. Others again beat up the -white of an egg to a stiff froth, and add this to the cream. It is a good -plan when the cream fails to froth completely to take off the top froth and -drain it on a sieve placed upside down. The cream that drains through can -be added to what is left and re-whipped. It is also a good plan to make -whipped cream some time before it is wanted, and, indeed, it can be -prepared with advantage the day before. When the cream is drained (we are -supposing a quart to have been used) it should be mixed with three or four -ounces of very finely powdered sugar, as well as the particular kind of -flavouring that will give the cream its name. For instance, we can have, -if liqueurs are allowed-- - - -MARASCHINO CREAM.--This is simply made by mixing a small glass of -maraschino with some whipped cream, properly sweetened. - - -COFFEE CREAM.--Make a very strong infusion of pure coffee that has been -roasted a high colour. It will be found best to re-roast coffee berries in -the oven if you have not got a proper coffee-roaster. Pound the berries in -a pestle and mortar, or grind them very coarsely; then make a strong -infusion with a very small quantity of water, and strain it till it is -quite bright. This is mixed with the whipped sweetened cream. - - -CHOCOLATE CREAM.--Take about two ounces of the very best chocolate and -dissolve it in a little boiling water; let it get cold, and then mix with -the whipped sweetened cream. - - -VANILLA CREAM.--Vanilla cream is nicest when a fresh vanilla pod is used -for the purpose, but a more simple process is to use a little essence of -vanilla. - - -ORANGE CREAM.--Rub some lumps of sugar on the outside of an orange, and -pound this sugar very finely, and then mix it with the whipped cream. - - -LEMON CREAM.--Proceed exactly as in making orange cream, only substituting -lemon for orange. - - -STRAWBERRY CREAM.--The juice only of the strawberry should be used. This -juice should be mixed with the powdered sugar and then used for mixing with -the whipped cream. It is a mistake, in making creams, to have too much -flavouring. The juice of a quarter of a pound of ripe red strawberries -would be sufficient for a quart of cream. - - -PISTACHIO CREAM.--Take about half a pound of pistachio kernels, throw them -for a minute or two into boiling water, and then rub off the skins, -throwing them into cold water like you do in blanching almonds. Pound -these in a mortar with a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix a -little spinach extract to give it a colour. Now mix this with the whipped -sweetened cream very thoroughly. This bright green cream makes a very -elegant dish. - - -CUSTARDS.--Good custard forms, perhaps, the best cold sweet sauce known. -It can be made very cheaply, and, on the other hand, it may be made in such -a manner as to be very expensive. We will first describe how to make the -most expensive kind of custard, as very often we can gather ideas from a -high-class model and carry them out in an inexpensive way. The highest -class custard is made by only using yolks of eggs instead of whole eggs, -and we can use cream in addition to milk. The great art in making custard -is to take care it does not curdle. Six yolks of eggs, half a pint of -milk, half a pint of cream, sweetened, would, of course, form a very -expensive custard. An ordinary custard can be made as follows:--Take four -large or five small eggs, beat them up very thoroughly, and add them -gradually to a pint of sweetened milk that has been boiled separately. In -order to thicken the custard, it is a good plan to put it in a jug and -stand the jug in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir the custard till it -is sufficiently thick. Custard can be flavoured in various ways. One of -the cheapest and perhaps nicest is to boil one or two bay-leaves in the -milk. Custard can also be flavoured by the addition of a small quantity of -the essence of vanilla; if you use a fresh pod vanilla, tie it up in a -little piece of muslin and have a string to it. This can be boiled in the -milk till the milk is sufficiently flavoured, and this pod can be used over -and over again. Of course, as it loses its flavour, it will have to remain -in the milk longer. - - -CHEAP CUSTARD.--A very cheap custard can be made by adding to one pint of -boiled milk one well-beaten-up egg and one good-sized teaspoonful of -corn-flour. The milk should be first sweetened, and can be flavoured very -cheaply by rubbing a few lumps of sugar on the outside of a lemon, or by -having a few bay-leaves boiled in it. A rich yellow colour can be obtained -by using a small quantity of yellow vegetable colouring extract, which, -like the green colouring, is sold in bottles by all grocers. These bottles -are very cheap, as they last a long time. They simply give any kind of -pudding a rich colouring without imparting any flavour whatever, and in -this respect are very superior to saffron. - - -APPLE CUSTARD.--Good apple custard can only be made by using apples of a -good flavour. When apples are in season, this dish can be made fairly -cheaply, but it does not do to use those high-priced imported apples. Peel -and take out the cores of about four pounds of apples, and let these simmer -till they are quite tender in rather more than a pint of water. Add about -one pound of sugar, or rather less if the apples are sweet; add a little -powdered cinnamon, and mix all this with eight eggs, well beaten up; stir -the mixture very carefully in a saucepan, or better still in a good-sized -jug placed in a saucepan, till it begins to thicken. This custard is best -served in glasses, and a little cinnamon sugar can be shaken over the top. -Nutmeg may be used instead of cinnamon, and by many is thought superior. - - -CHEESE-CAKES.--Cheese-cakes can be sent to table in two forms, the one some -rich kind of custard or cream placed in little round pieces of pastry, or -we can have a so-called cheese-cake baked in a pie-dish, the edges only of -which are lined with puff paste. We can also have cheese-cakes very rich -and cheese-cakes very plain. The origin of the name cheese-cake is that -originally they were made from curds used in making cheese. Probably most -people consider that the cheese-cakes made from curds are superior, and in -the North of England, and especially in Yorkshire, where curds are exposed -for sale in the windows at so much a pound, very delicious cheese-cakes can -be made, but considerable difficulty will be experienced if we attempt to -make home-made curds from London milk. Curds are made by taking any -quantity of milk and letting it nearly boil, then throw in a little rennet -or a glass of sherry. The curds must be well strained. - - -CHEESE-CAKES FROM CURDS.--Take half a pound of curds and press the curds in -a napkin to extract the moisture. Take also six ounces of lump sugar, and -rub the sugar on the outside of a couple of oranges or lemons. Dissolve -this sugar in two ounces of butter made hot in a tin in the oven; mix this -with the curds, with two ounces of powdered ratafias and a little grated -nutmeg--about half a nutmeg to this quantity will be required; add also six -yolks of eggs. Mix this well together, and fill the tartlet cases, made -from puff paste, and bake them in the oven. It is often customary to place -in the centre of each cheese-cake a thin strip of candied peel. As soon as -the cheese-cakes are done, take them out of the oven, and if the mixture be -of a bad colour finish it off with a salamander, but do not let them remain -in the oven too long, so that the pastry becomes brittle and dried up. -These cheese-cakes can be made on a larger scale than the ordinary one so -familiar to all who have looked into a pastry-cook's window. Suppose we -make them of the size of a breakfast saucer, a very rich and delicious -cheese-cake can be made by adding some chopped dried cherries to the -mixture. Sometimes ordinary grocer's currants are added and the ratafias -omitted. Sultana raisins can be used instead of currants, and by many are -much preferred. - -This mixture can be baked in a shallow pie-dish and time edge of the dish -lined with puff paste, but cheese-cakes made from curds are undoubtedly -expensive. - - -CHEESE-CAKES FROM POTATOES.--Exceedingly nice cheese-cakes can be made from -remains of cold potatoes, and can be made very cheap by increasing the -quantity of potatoes used. Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, -two fresh lemons, and half a pound of lump sugar. First of all rub off all -the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar; oil the butter in a tin in the -oven and melt the sugar in it; squeeze the juice of the two lemons, and -take care that the sugar is thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix -all the ingredients together. Now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix -the whole in a basin. This now forms a very rich mixture indeed, a -good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the interior of an -ordinary-sized cheese-cake, but a far better plan is to make a large -cheese-cake, or rather cheese-cake pudding, in a pie-dish by adding cold -boiled potatoes. The plainness or richness of the pudding depends entirely -upon the amount of potatoes added. The pie-dish can be lined with a little -puff paste round the edge, if preferred, or the pudding can be sent to -table plain. It should be baked in the oven till the top is nicely -browned. It can be served either hot or cold, but, in our opinion, is -nicer cold. If the lemons are very fresh and green--if the pudding is sent -to table _hot_--you will often detect the smell of turpentine. If a _large -quantity_ of potatoes is added more sugar will be required. - - -ORANGE CHEESE-CAKE.--Proceed exactly as above, only substituting two -oranges for two lemons. - - -ALMOND CHEESE-CAKES.--Proceed exactly as above, only instead of rubbing the -sugar on the outside of lemons add a small quantity of essence of almonds. - - -APPLE CHEESE-CAKES.--Apple cheese-cakes can be made in a similar manner to -apple custard, the only difference being that the mixture is baked till it -sets. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -STEWED FRUITS AND FRUIT ICES. - - -There are few articles of diet more wholesome than fruit, in every shape, -provided it is _fresh_. It is a great mistake, however, to suppose that -fruit, when too stale to be eaten as it is, is yet good enough for stewing. -We often hear, especially in summer weather, of persons being made ill from -eating fruit. Probably in every case the injury results, not from eating -fruit as fruit, but from eating it when it is too stale to be served as an -article of food at all. There is an immense amount of injury done to this -country by the importation of rotten plums, more especially from Germany, -and it is to be regretted that more stringent laws are not made to prevent -the importation of all kinds of food hurtful to health. - -We will suppose that in every recipe we are about to give the fruit is at -any rate fresh; we do not say ripe, because there are many instances in -which fruit not ripe enough to be eaten raw is exceedingly wholesome when -stewed properly and sweetened. As an instance we may mention green -gooseberries and hard greengages, which, though quite uneatable in their -natural state, yet make delicious fruit pies or dishes of stewed fruit. Of -all dishes there are few to equal what is called a compote of fruit, and -there are probably few sweets more popular than-- - - -COMPOTE OF FRUIT.--A compote of fruit consists of a variety of fresh fruits -mixed together in a bowl. Some may be stewed and some served in their -natural state, or the whole may be stewed. When a large variety of fruits -can be obtained, and are sent to table in an old-fashioned china family -bowl, few dishes present a more elegant appearance, especially if you -happen to possess an old-fashioned punch ladle, an old silver bowl with a -black whalebone handle. Care should be taken to keep the fruit from being -broken. The following fruits will mix very well, although, of course, it -is impossible always to obtain every variety. We can have strawberries, -raspberries, red, white, and black currants, and cherries, as well as -peaches, nectarines, and apricots. We can also have stewed apples and -stewed pears. Very much, of course, will depend upon the time of year. -Those fruits that want stewing should be placed in some hot syrup -previously made, and only allowed to stew till tender enough to be eaten. -Tinned fruits, especially apricots, can be mixed with fresh fruits, only it -is best not to use the syrup in the tin, as it will probably overpower the -flavour of the other fruits. The syrup, as far as possible, should be -bright and not cloudy. The fruit in the bowl should be mixed, but should -not be stirred up. We should endeavour as much as possible to keep the -colours distinct. If strawberries or raspberries form part of the compote, -the syrup will get red. Should black currants be present, avoid breaking -them, as they spoil the appearance of the syrup. In summer the compote of -fruits is much improved by the addition of a lump of ice and a glass of -good old brandy. Should the compote of fruits, as is often the case, be -intended for a garden party, where it will have to stand a long time, if -possible get a small bowl, like those in which gold and silver fish are -sold in the street for sixpence, and fill this with ice and place it in the -middle of the larger bowl containing fruit, otherwise the melted ice will -utterly spoil the juice that runs from the fruit, which is sweetened with -the syrup and flavoured with the brandy. If much brandy be added, old -ladies at garden parties will be found to observe that the juice is the -best part of it. - - -APPLES, STEWED.--Peel and cut out the cores of the apples, and stew them -gently in some syrup composed of about half a pound of white sugar and -rather more than a pint of water. A small stick of cinnamon, or a few -cloves, and a strip of lemon-peel can be added to the syrup, but should be -taken out when finished. The apples should be stewed till they are tender, -but must not be broken. The syrup in which the apples are stewed should of -course be served with them. This syrup can be coloured slightly with a few -drops of cochineal, but should not be coloured more than very slightly. -The syrup looks a great deal better if it is clear and bright. It can be -strained and clarified. Apples are very nice stewed in white French wine, -such as Chablis or Graves. - - -STEWED PEARS.--Pears known as cooking pears take a long time to stew. They -should be peeled and the cores removed, and then stewed very gently in a -syrup composed of half a pound of sugar to about a pint and a half of -water; add a few cloves to the syrup, say two cloves to each pear. The -pears will probably take from two to three hours to stew before they are -tender. When tender add a glass of port wine and a little cochineal. If -the pears are stewed, like they are abroad, in claret, add cinnamon instead -of the cloves. - - -STEWED RHUBARB.--Stewed rhubarb is of two kinds. When it first comes into -season it is small, tender, and of a bright red colour, and when stewed -makes a very pretty dish. The red rhubarb should be cut into little pieces -about two inches long. Very little water will be required, as the fruit -contains a great deal of water in itself. The amount of sugar added -depends entirely upon taste. The stewed rhubarb should be sent to table -unbroken, and floating in a bright red juice. - -When rhubarb is old and green it is best served more like a puree, or -mashed. Very old rhubarb is often stringy, and can with advantage be -rubbed through a wire sieve. It is no use attempting to colour old rhubarb -red, but you can improve its colour by the addition of a very little -spinach extract. A few strips of lemon-peel can be stewed with old -rhubarb, but should never be added to young red rhubarb. - - -GOOSEBERRIES, STEWED.--Young green gooseberries stewed, strange to say, -require less sugar than ripe gooseberries. It is best to stew the fruit -first, and add the sugar afterwards. The amount of sugar varies very much -with the quality of the gooseberries. - - -PRUNES, STEWED.--The prunes should be washed before they are stewed. They -will not take more than half an hour to stew, and a strip of lemon-peel -should be placed in the juice. Stewed prunes are much improved by the -addition of a little port wine. - - -PLUMS, STEWED.--Stewed plums, such as black, ordinary, or greengages, or -indeed any kind of stone fruit, can be stewed in syrup, and have this -advantage--plums can be used this way which could not be eaten at all if -they were raw. These fruits are much nicer cold than hot. In many cases, -in stewing stone fruit (and this applies particularly to peaches, apricots, -and nectarines), the stones should be removed and cracked and the kernels -added to the fruit. - - -CHERRIES, STEWED.--Large white-heart cherries form a very delicate dish -when stewed. Very little water should be added, and the syrup should be -kept as white as possible, and, if necessary, strained. Stew the cherries -till they are tender, but do not let them break. Colour the syrup with a -few drops of cochineal, and add a glass of maraschino. - - -ICES.--Ices are too often regarded as expensive luxuries, and show how -completely custom rules the majority of our housekeepers. There are many -houses where the dinner may consist daily of soup, fish, entrees, joint, -game, and wine, and yet, were we to suggest a course of ices, the worthy -housekeeper would hesitate on the ground of extravagance. It is difficult -to argue with persons whose definition of economy is what they have always -been accustomed to since they were children, and whose definition of -extravagance is anything new. The fact remains, however, that there is -many a worthy signor who sells ices in the streets at a penny each, and -manages to make a living out of the profit not only for himself, but for -his signora as well. Under these circumstances, the manufacture of these -"extravagances" is worthy of inquiry. Ices can be made at home very -cheaply with an ice machine, which can now be obtained at a, comparatively -speaking, small cost. With a machine there is absolutely no trouble, and -directions will be given with each machine, so that any details here, which -vary with the machine, will be useless. Ices can be made at home without a -machine with a little trouble, and, to explain how to do this, it is -necessary to explain the theory of ice-making, which is exceedingly simple. -We will not allude to machines dependent on freezing-powders, but to those -which rely for their cold simply on ice and salt mixed. We will suppose we -want a lemon-water ice, _i.e._, we have made some very strong and sweet -lemonade, and we want to freeze it. It is well known that water will -freeze at a certain temperature, called freezing-point. By mixing chopped -ice and salt and a very little water together, a far greater degree of cold -can be immediately produced, viz., a thermometer would stand at 32 degrees -below freezing-point were it to be plunged into this mixture. An ice -machine is a metal pail placed in another pail much larger than itself. -The "sweet lemonade" is placed in the middle pail, and chopped ice and salt -placed outside it. The proportion of ice to salt should be double the -weight of the former to the latter. It is now obvious that if we have -filled two pails, the one with "the sweet lemonade," and the other with the -ice and salt, very soon our lemonade will be a solid block of ice. To -prevent this it must be constantly stirred, and, as the lemonade would of -course freeze first against the sides of the pail, these sides must be -constantly scraped. Inside the inner pail, consequently, there is a -stirrer, which, by means of a handle, continually scrapes the side of the -pail. It is obvious that if the stirrer is fixed, and the pail itself made -to revolve, that is the same as if the pail were fixed and the stirrer made -to revolve. To make lemon-water ice, therefore, place the lemonade in the -inner pail, surrounded with chopped ice and salt, two parts of the former -to one of the latter, turn the handle, and in a few minutes the ice is -made. Now, suppose you have not got a machine, proceed as follows: Take an -empty, clean, round coffee-tin (the larger the better). [We mention -coffee-tin as the most probable one to be in the house, but any round tin -will do.] Get a clean piece of wood, the same width as the inside diameter -of the tin, only it must be a great deal longer. We will suppose the tin -rather more than a foot deep and five inches in diameter. Our piece of -wood, which should be clean and smooth, must be nearly five inches wide, -say a quarter of an inch thick, and about two feet long. Next get a small -tub, say nine inches deep, place the round tin in the middle, with the -sweet lemonade inside; next place the piece of wood upright in the tin, so -that the wood touches the bottom. Next surround the tin with chopped ice -and salt up to the edge of the tub, fill it as high as you can, and then -cover it round with a blanket, _i.e._, cover the ice and salt. Now get -someone to hold the wooden board steady; take the tin in your two hands, -and turn it round and round, first one way and then another. In a very -short time you will find the tin to contain lemon-water ice. The following -hints, rather than recipes, for making ices, _i.e._, for making the liquid, -which must be frozen as directed above, are given, not because they are the -best recipes, but because cream, which is the basis of all first-class -ices, is often too expensive to be used constantly. Of course, real cream -is far superior to any substitute. - - -ICE CREAM, CHEAP.--Make a custard (_see_ CUSTARD) with half a pint of milk, -the yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoonful of Swiss milk and some sugar. -As soon as it gets a little thick, stir it till it is nearly cold, then add -some essence of vanilla or almonds, or a wineglassful of noyeau, or any -flavouring wished, and freeze. - - -ICES FROM FRESH FRUITS.--Take half a pound of fresh strawberries or -raspberries, add half that weight of sugar, pound thoroughly, rub through a -sieve, and mix with this thick juice, rubbed through, half a pint of the -mixture made for ice cream (_see_ ICE CREAM, CHEAP), only, of course, -without any flavouring such as vanilla, etc. Mix thoroughly, and freeze. - -N.B.--A few red currants should be mixed with the raspberries. Should the -colour be poor, brighten it up before freezing with a little cochineal. - - -ICES FROM JAM.--Mix a quarter of a pound of any jam with half a pint of the -mixture made for ice cream (_see_ ICE CREAM, CHEAP), without any flavouring -such as vanilla. Rub all through a fine sieve, and freeze. Cochineal will -give additional colour to red jams; spinach extract to green jams; and a -very little turmeric, or yellow vegetable colouring, to yellow jams. A -small pinch of turmeric can be boiled in the milk. - - -ICE, LEMON-WATER.--Rub six lumps of sugar on the rind of six lemons, add -this and the juice of six lemons to a pint of fairly sweet syrup. The -amount of sugar is a matter of taste. Strain and freeze. Some persons add -a few drops of dilute sulphuric acid. - - -ICE, ORANGE-WATER.--Act exactly as in lemon-water, using oranges instead of -lemons, and syrup containing less sugar. - - -ICE, WATER FRUIT.--All sorts of water fruit ices can be made by mixing half -a pint of juice, such as currant-juice, with twice that quantity of syrup, -and freezing. Grated ripe pine-apple, pounded and bruised, ripe cherries -and greengages, strawberry-juice, raspberry-juice, can be mixed with syrup -and frozen. Sometimes a little lemon-juice can be added with advantage, -and in the case of cherry ice and greengage ice a little noyeau added is an -improvement. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - -CAKES AND BREAD. - - -In vegetarian cookery there is no difference, as far as cake-making is -concerned, between it and ordinary cookery. In making cakes we will -confine our attention chiefly to general principles which, if once known, -render cake-making of every description comparatively easy work. Those who -wish for detailed _recipes_ for making almost every kind of cake known will -find all that they require on a large scale in "Cassell's Dictionary of -Cookery," and also everything necessary on a smaller scale in "Cassell's -Shilling Cookery," which has already reached its hundred-thousandth -edition. - -Cakes may be divided into two classes--those that contain fruit and those -that do not. Plum cakes can be made very rich indeed, like a wedding cake, -or so plain that it can scarcely be distinguished from a loaf of bread with -a few currants in it. Again, cakes that contain no fruit can, at the same -time, be made exceedingly rich, the richness chiefly depending upon the -amount of butter and eggs that are used. We will first give a few -directions with regard to making what may be termed plain cakes, _i.e._, -cakes that contain no fruit at all. Perhaps the best model we can give to -illustrate the general principles will be that of a pound cake. The recipe -is a very easy one to recollect, as a pound cake means one that is made -from a pound of butter, a pound of sugar, a pound of eggs, and a pound of -flour. There is one addition, however, which the good plain cook will -probably not be up to, and which, so far as flavour is concerned, makes all -the difference between Francatelli and "Jemima Ann"--we must rub some of -the lumps of sugar on the outsides of either two oranges or two lemons. It -is also a great improvement to add a small glass of brandy, and in every -kind of cake we must add a pinch of salt. - -In making cakes it is always necessary to be careful about the butter. It -is best to put the butter in cold water before it is used, and, if salt -butter, it should be washed in several waters to extract the salt. The -next thing necessary is to beat the butter to a cream. To do this it must -be worked about in a basin with a wooden spoon. The basin should be a -strong one, and a wooden spoon is far preferable to a metal one. You -simply beat the butter and spread it against the sides of the basin and -knock it about till it loses its consistency. You cannot beat the butter -to the consistency of ordinary cream, but to a state more resembling -Devonshire clotted cream. Of course, when it is like this it is much more -easily mixed with the other ingredients. In making a pound cake we should -first of all beat the butter to a cream and then add flour, sugar, and eggs -gradually. When the whole is thoroughly well mixed together, we must bake -it in a tin, or mould, or hoop. We need say nothing about tins or moulds, -but will confine ourselves to giving directions how to bake a cake in a -hoop, for, as a rule, ordinary English cooks do not understand how to use -them. - -One great advantage of using a hoop is that when the cake is baked there is -no fear of breaking it in turning it out. A very simple hoop can be made -with an ordinary slip of tin, say six inches wide; as the tin will lap -over, the cake can be made any size round you wish. It is a good plan to -fasten a piece of copper wire round the outside of the tin. This can be -twisted, and when the cake is baked and has got cold can be untwisted, and -the tin will then open of its own accord. The tin must be lined with -buttered paper, and buttered paper must be placed on a flat piece of tin at -the bottom. When an "amateur hoop" is used like we have described, care -must be taken that the cake does not come out at the bottom. The cake, -especially when it is made with beaten-up eggs, like sponge cake, will -rise, and unless precautions are taken the tin will rise with it, and the -unset portion of the cake break loose round the edge at the bottom. To -prevent this the tin must be kept down with a weight at the top. In a -proper hoop made for the purpose there are appliances for fastening the -hoop together itself and also for keeping it in its place, but if we use a -strip of tin we must place something across the tin on the top and then put -on a heavy weight. When this is done, you must remember to allow room for -the cake to rise. A pound cake such as we have described can be made into -a rich fruit cake by adding stoned raisins, currants, chopped candied peel, -sultana raisins, or, better still, dried cherries. In making ordinary -cakes, when currants are used, they should be first washed and then dried; -if you use damp currants the cake will probably be heavy. - -With regard to the flour, it is cheapest in the end to use the best -quality, and the flour should be dried and sifted. If you weigh the flour -remember to dry and sift it before you weigh it, and not after. In using -sugar get the best loaf; this should also be pounded and sifted. - -In using eggs, of course each egg should be broken separately. Very often -it is necessary to separate the yolks from the whites. This requires some -little skill; you are less likely to break the yolk when you crack the egg -boldly. Put the yolk from one half egg-shell into the other half, spilling -as much of the white as you can. You will soon get the yolks separate. -Next, remember before mixing the eggs to remove the thread or string from -them. When the whites are beaten separately, you must whisk them till they -become a solid froth; no liquid should remain at the bottom of the basin. -The yolks should not be broken till they are wanted. - -Lemon-peel is often used in making cakes, and in chopping it a little -powdered sugar is a great assistance in preventing the peel sticking -together. Remember only to use the _yellow_ part, not the white. The -white part gives the cake a bitter flavour. - -Sometimes milk or cream is used in cake-making. If Swiss milk is used as a -substitute, remember that less sugar will be required. - -When pounded almonds are used for cakes, the almonds must be blanched by -being thrown, first into boiling water, and then into cold water. In -pounding them, add a little rose-water or orange-flower water, or the white -of an egg, to prevent the almonds getting oily. - -Nearly all plain cakes, where only a few eggs are used, will be made -lighter by the addition of a little baking-powder. A very good -baking-powder is made by mixing an ounce of tartaric acid with an ounce and -a half of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. The -baking powder should be kept very dry. - -A very nice way of making home-made cakes is to use some dough, which can -be procured from the baker's. Suppose you have a quartern of dough, put it -in a basin, cover it over with a cloth, and put it in front of the fire to -rise, then spread it on a floured pastry-board, slice it up, and work in -half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of moist sugar, six eggs, a -teaspoonful of salt, and half an ounce of caraway seeds. When all the -ingredients are thoroughly mixed, place them in two or more well-buttered -tins or hoops, and let them stand in front of the fire a little while -before they are placed in the oven. Cakes can be flavoured with a variety -of spices, such as cinnamon, mace, nutmeg, or powdered coriander seeds. -These last are always used to give a special flavour to hot cross buns. - - -BREAD.--Home-made bread is not so much used now as it was years back. Most -housekeepers have found by experience that it is a waste both of time and -money. There are very few houses among the middle classes which possess an -oven capable of competing with any chance of success with a baker's oven. -There are, however, many vegetarians who believe in what is called -whole-meal bread. A good deal of the whole-meal bread sold as such has -been found to be adulterated with substances very unwholesome to ordinary -stomachs. We may mention saw-dust as one of the ingredients used for the -purpose. Again, if you attempt to make whole-meal bread into loaves, you -will find great difficulty in baking the loaves. This whole-meal is a very -slow conductor of heat, and the result will probably be that the outside of -the loaf will be very hard while the inside will be too underdone to be -eaten. Consequently, should you wish to have home-made whole-meal bread, -it is far best to bake it in the form of a tea-cake or flat-cake. We -cannot do better, in conclusion, than quote what Sir Henry Thompson says on -this subject:--"The following recipe," he says, "will be found successful, -probably, after a trial or two, in producing excellent, light, friable, and -most palatable bread: To two pounds of coarsely ground or crushed -whole-meal, add half a pound of fine flour and a sufficient quantity of -baking powder and salt; when these are well mixed, rub in two ounces of -butter, and make into dough with half milk and water, or with all milk if -preferred. Make rapidly into flat cakes like 'tea-cakes,' and bake without -delay in a quick oven, leaving them afterwards to finish thoroughly at a -lower temperature. The butter and milk supply fatty matters, in which the -wheat is somewhat deficient; all the saline and mineral matters of the husk -are retained; and thus a more nutritive form of bread cannot be made. -Moreover, it retains the natural flavour of the wheat, in place of the -insipidity which is characteristic of fine flour, although it is -indisputable that bread produced from the latter, especially in Paris and -Vienna, is unrivalled for delicacy, texture, and colour. Whole meal may be -bought; but mills are now cheaply made for home use, and wheat may be -ground to any degree of coarseness desired." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - -PIES AND PUDDINGS. - - -In vegetarian cookery, as a rule, pies and puddings are made in the same -way as in ordinary cookery, with the exception that we cannot use lard or -dripping in making our pastry. Nor are we allowed to use suet in making -crust for puddings. It would have been quite impossible to have given even -one quarter of the recipes for the pies and puddings known, and we must -refer those who wish for information on this subject to "Cassell's Shilling -Cookery," where will be found a very complete list, but which would have -occupied the whole of the space which we have devoted to recipes where -vegetarian cookery, as a rule, _differs_ from the ordinary. - -We will, on the present occasion, confine our attention to the two points -we have mentioned, viz., how to make pastry without lard or dripping, and -pudding crust without suet. The first of these two points causes no -difficulty whatever, as the best pastry, especially that known as puff -paste, is invariably made with butter only as the fatty element; but there -is one point we must not overlook. - -Vegetarians are divided into two classes: those who use the animal -products--butter, milk, cream, and eggs--and those who do not. This latter -class contains, probably, the most respected members of the vegetarian -body, as it will always be found that there is an involuntary homage paid -by all men to consistency. How then are strict vegetarians to make pastry, -butter being classed with the forbidden fruit? We fear we cannot tell them -how to make good puff paste; but "Necessity is the mother of invention," -and naturally olive oil must supply the place of butter. - - -PASTRY WITHOUT BUTTER.--We will describe how to make a small quantity, -which is always best when we make experiments. Take half a pound of the -best Vienna flour, and mix with it, while dry, about a salt-spoonful of -baking-powder. Now add about a tablespoonful of olive oil, and work the -oil and flour together with the fingers exactly as you work a small piece -of butter into the flour at the commencement of making puff paste. Next -add sufficient water to make the whole into an elastic paste; roll it out -and let it set between two tins containing ice, similar to the method used -in making high-class pastry. - -We have mentioned a tablespoonful of oil, but if ice is used more oil may -be added. - -We all know that oil will freeze at a much lower temperature than water, -consequently the minute particles of oil become partially solid. Now take -the paste, roll it out, and give it three turns; roll it out again, give it -three more turns, and put it back in the ice; let it stand ten minutes or a -quarter of an hour, and repeat this process three times. Be careful to -flour the pastry each time before it is turned. By this means we get the -pastry in thin layers, with minute air bubbles between them, and this will -cause the pastry to rise. If you are making a pie, roll out the pastry the -last time, cover the pie, and put it in the oven immediately, while the -pastry is cold. Do not let the pastry stand, unless it be in a very cold -place. - -This pastry we have just described, made with oil, can also be utilised for -puddings, in which latter case we would recommend the addition of a little -more baking-powder, and to every pound of flour add two tablespoonfuls of -very fine bread-crumbs. These must be dry, and rubbed through a fine -sieve. - - -PASTRY WITH BUTTER.--Good puff paste is made by taking equal quantities of -butter and flour--say a pound of each--the yolk of one egg, a pinch of -salt, while the water used is acidulated with lemon-juice. For the -manipulation of this pastry we must refer those who do not know how to make -it to other cookery books, or to the shilling one above mentioned. In -making ordinary paste we must use less butter; and when we use considerably -less butter, if we wish the pastry light, we shall require baking-powder. -The quantity depends very much upon the quality. Many persons make their -own baking-powder, and we cannot recommend any better than the recipe given -in the last chapter, viz., an ounce of tartaric acid, an ounce and a half -of bicarbonate of soda, and an ounce and a half of arrowroot. A great -deal, too, depends upon the quality of the flour. Vienna flour is much -more expensive than ordinary flour, but incomparably superior. What limit -we can assign to the quantity of butter used it is impossible to say. A -quarter of a pound of butter to a pound of flour, and a teaspoonful of -baking-powder, will make a fair crust. When less butter is used the result -is not altogether satisfactory. - - -PUDDINGS.--We next come to the very large class of puddings in which suet -is used. The ordinary plum pudding is a case in point. The best -substitute for suet, of course, is butter or oil; a plum pudding, however, -made without suet, would undoubtedly be heavy, and, to avoid this, we must -use butter, bread-crumbs, and baking-powder. It would be impossible to -give any exact quantity, as so much depends upon the other ingredients. -Some people use bread-crumbs only in making plum pudding, and no flour, in -which case, of course, a very considerable number of eggs must be used or -else the pudding will break to pieces. In the case, however, of oil being -used as a substitute for butter, it is of the utmost importance that the -oil be pure and fresh. We here have to overcome a deeply-rooted English -prejudice. Pure oil is absolutely tasteless, and it has often been -remarked by high-class authorities that really pure butter ought to be the -same. We fear, however, that purity in food is the exception rather than -the rule, as at no period of this country's history has the crime of -adulteration been so rampant as in the present day. - -Adulteration has been said to be another form of competition. Too often -adulteration is a deliberate form of robbery. Steps have been taken in -recent years to put a stop to this universal system of fraud, more -especially in connection with butter. Were more Acts passed similar to the -"Margarine Act" we believe that this country would be richer and happier, -and without doubt more healthy. - -In that large class of puddings known as custard pudding, cabinet pudding, -there is no difference whatever in vegetarian cookery. It would be quite -impossible to make any of these puddings without eggs, and when eggs are -used we may take for granted that butter is allowed also. - -We have, throughout, called particular attention to the importance of -appearances. In the case of all puddings made with eggs and baked in a -dish, it is a very great improvement to reserve one or two whites of egg, -and to beat these to a stiff froth, with a little white powdered sugar. -When the pudding is baked, cover it with this snow-white froth, and let it -set by placing it in a slack oven for two or three minutes. Whether the -pudding is served hot or cold, the result is the same. An otherwise plain -and somewhat common-looking dish is transformed into an elegant one, the -only extra expense being a little _trouble_. - -We may sum up our instructions to cooks in the words: "Whatsoever thy hand -findeth to do, do it with thy might." - - - - -INDEX. - - -Allemande Sauce, 44 - -Almond Cheesecakes, 170 - Fritters, 119 - Sauce, 44 - Sauce, Clear, 45 - Soup, 23 - -Apple Cheesecakes, 170 - Custard, 168 - Fritters, 118 Jam, 161 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - -Apples, Stewed, 172 - -Apricot Fritters, 119 - Jam, 164 - Jelly, 163 - -Apricots Tinned, 155 - with Cream, 156 - -Aromatic Herbs, 32 - -Arrowroot Sauce, 45 - -Artichokes, French, 137 - a la Provencale, 137 - Boiled, 137 - Fried, 137 - Salad, 102 - -Artichoke, Jerusalem, 137 - Fried, 138 - Mashed, 138 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - -Asparagus and Eggs, 85 - Boiled, 139 - Salad, 101 - Sauce, 45 - Soup, 24 - Tinned, 153 - -Ayoli, 115 - - -Baking-Powder, 180 - -Banana Fritters, 119 - -Barley and Rice Porridge, 75 - Soup, 25 - -Batter for Fritters, 116 - -Beans, Broad, 139 - a la Bourgeoise, 139 - a la Poulette, 139 - Mashed, 139 - Salad, 103 - Soup, 27 - -Beans, French, 139 - Pudding, 140 - Salad, 102 - Soup, 27 - Tinned, 154 - -Beans, Haricot, 131 - Salad, 103 - Soup, Red, 26 - Soup, White, 26 - -Beetroot Salad, 102 - Soup, 26 - -Beurre Noir, 48 - -Blackberry Jam, 164 - Jelly, 158 - -Black Butter, 48 - and Eggs, 86 - -Black Currant Jam, 164 - Jelly, 160 - Sauce, 45 - -Bread, 180 - and Milk, 75 - Potato, 129 - Sauce, 45 - Whole-Meal, 180 - -Brocoli, 141 - Greens, 141 - -Brown Mushroom Sauce, 55 - Onion Sauce, 55 - -Brown Roux, 22 - Thickening, 22 - -Brussels Sprouts, 141 - Tinned, 154 - -Butter, Black, 48 - Maitre d'hotel, 53 - Melted, 48 - Oiled, 48 - Sauce, 46 - - -Cabbage, 142 - and Cream, 143 - and Rice, 63 - large White, 142 - Red, 143 - Soup, 27 - -Cakes, 177 - Parsnip, 147 - Pound, 179 - -Caper Sauce, 49 - -Carrot Jam, 164 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 27 - -Carrots, Boiled, 143 - Fried, 144 - Mashed, 144 - Tinned, 154 - -Cauliflower and Tomato Sauce, 145 - au gratin, 144 - Boiled, 144 - Salad, 104 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 28 - -Casseroles, 64 - -Celery and Eggs, 85 - Salad, 103 - Sauce, 49 - Soup, 29 - Stewed, 145 - -Cheesecakes, 165-168 - Almond, 170 - Apple, 170 - from Curds, 169 - Orange, 170 - Potato, 169 - -Cheese and Eggs, 89 - and Fried Bread, 113 - and Rice, 63 - Devilled, 114 - Fritters, 117 - -Cheese Ramequins, 114 - Sandwiches, 107 - Savoury, 113 - Souffle, 92 - Soup, 29 - Stewed, 114 - Straws, 114 - Toasted, 114 - -Cherry Sauce, 49 - Soup, 29 - -Cherries, Stewed, 174 - -Chestnut Sauce, 49 - Soup, 30 - -Chestnuts and Macaroni, 72 - -Chocolate Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - -Chutney Sauce, 53 - -Cinnamon Sauce, 49 - -Clear Soup, 30 - -Cocoanut Sauce, 49 - Soup, 31 - -Coffee Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - -Cottage Soup, 30 - -Cream and Macaroni, 73 - Cheese Sandwiches, 107 - Chocolate, 166 - Coffee, 166 - Fritters, 120 - Lemon, 166 - Maraschino, 166 - Orange, 166 - Pistachio, 167 - Strawberry, 167 - Vanilla, 166 - -Creams, 165 - -Croquettes, Potato, 127 - Rice, 65 - -Cucumber and Eggs, 88 - Salad, 102 - Sauce, 49 - -Currant Sauce, Black, 50 - Red, 50 - Black, Jam, 164 - Black, Jelly, 160 - Red, Jam, 164 - Red, Jelly, 161 - -Curried Eggs, 82 - Lentils, 136 - Rice 63 - Vegetables, 151 - -Curry Sauce, 50 - -Custard, Apple, 168 - Cheap, 168 - Fritters, 119 - -Custards, 167 - -Cutlets, Potato, 127 - - -Damson Jam, 164 - Jelly, 162 - -Dandelion Salad, 103 - -Devilled Cheese, 114 - Eggs, 82 - -Dutch Sauce, 51 - Green, 51 - - -Egg Balls, 83 - Forcemeat, 83 - Salad, 99 - Sandwiches, 106 - Sauce, 51 - Toast, 85 - -Eggs, 78 - a la bonne femme, 8 - a la Dauphine, 85 - a la tripe, 83 - and Asparagus, 85 - Black Butter, 86 - Celery, 85 - Cheese, 89 - Cucumber, 88 - Garlic, 86 - Mushrooms, 86 - Onions, 87 - Potatoes, 87 - Rice, 66 - Sauce Robert, 87 - Sorrel, 87 - Spinach, 85 - Turnip-tops, 85 - au gratin, 84 - Boiled, 78 - Hard, 81 - Broiled, 87 - Buttered, 88 - Curried, 82 - Devilled, 82 - Fried, 80 - in Sunshine, 88 - Little, 89 - Poached, 81 - Scrambled, 88 - To Break, 80 - -Endive, 145 - Salad, 100 - Soup, 31 - -English Salad, 97 - -Extract of Spinach, 25 - - -Fennel Sauce, 51 - -Flageolets, 133 - Tinned, 154 - -Fond d'Artichokes, 155 - -Forcemeat of Egg, 83 - of Mushroom, 110 - -Frangipane Fritters, 120 - -French Beans, 139 - Bean Salad, 102 - Soup, 27 - Pudding, 140 - Salad, 97 - -Fritters, 116 - Almond, 119 - Apple, 118 - Apricot, 119 - Banana, 119 - Batter for, 116 - Cheese, 117 - Chocolate, 119 - Coffee, 119 - Cream, 120 - Custard, 119 - Frangipane, 120 - Game, 117 - German, 121 - Ginger and Rice, 121 - Hominy, 117 - Mushroom, 116 - Orange, 120 - Pine Apple, 120 - Peach, 120 - Potato, 120 - Rice, 121 - Sage and Onion, 118 - Spinach, 118 - Sweet, 118 - Tomato, 117 - Vanilla, 119 - -Fruit, Compote of, 171 - Soup, 31 - Stewed, 171 - -Fruits, Bottled, 157 - Tinned, 155 - -Frumenty, 76 - - -Game Fritters, 117 - -Garlic and Eggs, 86 - -Garnish of Eggs, 89 - -German Fritters, 121 - Salad, 100 - Sauce, 51 - -Ginger Sauce, 52 - -Gooseberry Sauce, 52 - -Gooseberries, Stewed, 173 - -Green Bean Soup, 27 - Dutch Sauce, 51 - Mayonnaise Sauce, 54 - Pea Soup, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - - -Hare Soup, 32 -Haricot Beans, 131 - Bean Salad, 103 - Soup, Red, 26 - White, 26 - -Herbaceous Mixture, 32 - -Herbs, Aromatic, 32 - -Hominy, 76 - Fried, 76 - Fritters, 117 - -Hop Salad, 104 - -Horseradish Sauce, 52 - -Hotch Potch, 32 - - -Ice Cream, 176 - Lemon Water, 176 - Orange Water, 176 - Water Fruit, 177 - -Ices, 174 - from Fresh Fruit, 176 - from Jams, 176 - -Indian Pickle Sauce, 53 - Sandwiches, 106 - -Italian Salad, 104 - Sauce, 53 - - -Jam Apple, 161 - Apricot, 164 - Blackberry, 164 - Black Currant, 164 - Carrot, 164 - Damson, 164 - Gooseberry, 164 - Greengage, 164 - Plum, 164 - Raspberry, 164 - Red Currant, 164 - Rhubarb, 164 - Strawberry, 164 - Vegetable Marrow, 164 - -Jams, 163 - -Jardiniere Soup, 33 - -Jellies, 158 - -Jelly, Apple, 161 - Apricot, 163 - Blackberry, 158 - Black Currant, 160 - Damson, 162 - Lemon, 159 - Mulberry, 163 - Orange, 160 - Pine Apple, 162 - Raspberry, 161 - Red Currant, 161 - -Julienne Soup, 33 - - -Kale, Scotch, 148 - Sea, 148 - - -Leek Soup, 33 - -Leeks, Stewed, 145 - Welsh Porridge, 146 - -Lemon Cream, 166 - Jelly, 159 - Water, Ice, 176 - -Lentil Porridge, 75 - Puree a la Soubise, 34 - Soup, 33 - -Lentils, 135 - a la a Provencale, 136 - Boiled, 136 - Curried, 136 - -Lettuce Salad, 97 - -Lettuces, Stewed, 146 - with Peas, 146 - - -Macaroni, 67 - a la Reine, 69 - and Cheese, 68 - Chestnuts, 72 - Cream, 73 - Eggs, 69 - Tomatoes, 72 - as an Ornament, 70 - au gratin, 69 - Italian Fashion, 68 - Nudels, 71 - Savoury, 72 - Scolloped, 70 - Soup, Clear, 34 - Soup, Thick, 34 - Timbale of, 70 - -Macedoines, 155 - -Maitre d'hotel Sauce, 53 - Butter, 53 - -Mango Chutney Sauce, 53 - -Maraschino Cream, 166 - -Mayonnaise Salad, 98 - Sauce, 53 - Sauce, Green, 54 - -Melon Salad, 105 - -Milk Porridge, 75 - Soup, 35 - Toast, 77 - -Mint Sauce, 54 - -Mock Turtle Soup, 35 - -Mulberry Jelly, 163 - -Mulligatawny Soup, 35 - -Mushroom, Essence of, 44 - Forcemeat, 110 - Fritters, 116 - Pie, 110 - Cold, 110 - Pudding, 111 - Puree of, 55 - Sandwiches, 106 - Sauce, 54 - Brown, 55 - -Mushrooms, 108 - a la Bordelaise, 110 - a la Provencale, 110 - and Eggs, 86 - au gratin, 109 - Fried, 109 - Plain, 108 - -Mustard Sauce, 55 - -Mustard and Cress, 104 - Sandwiches, 106 - - -Nalesnikis, 116 - -Nettles, To Boil, 151 - - -Oatmeal Porridge, 73 - -Oiled Butter, 48 - -Omelet au Kirsch, 95 - au Rhum, 95 - Cheese, 92 - Fine Herbs, 92 - Onion, 92 - Plain, 91 - Potato, 92 - Potato, Sweet, 92 - Souffle, 93 - Sweet, 94 - Vegetable, 95 - with Jam, 94 - -Omelets, 89 - -Onion Omelet, 92 - Salad, 104 - Sauce, 55 - Brown, 55 - Soup, 35 - Brown, 36 - -Onions and Eggs, 87 - Baked, 146 - Plain, 146 - Stewed, 147 - Stuffed, 115 - -Orange Cheesecakes, 170 - Cream, 166 - Fritters, 120 - Jelly, 160 - Sauce, 56 - Water Ice, 176 - -Ox-tail Soup, 36 - - -Palestine Soup, 24 - -Pancakes, Polish, 116 - -Parsley Sauce, 56 - To Blanch, 26 - -Parsnip Cake, 147 - Soup, 36 - -Parsnips, 147 - Fried, 147 - Mashed, 147 - -Paste for Pies, 184. - Puddings, 185. - without Butter, 183. - -Peach Fritters, 120 - -Peaches, Tinned, 156 - -Peaches with Cream, 156 - -Pea Soup, Dried Green, 37 - Split Peas, 37 - Fresh Green, 38 - -Peas, Boiled, 148 - Brose, 134 - Dried, 133 - Dried Green with Cream, 135 - Dried whole Green, 134 - Green, 148 - Pudding, 134 - Stewed, 148 - Tinned, 153 - -Pear Soup, 37 - -Pears, Stewed, 173 - Tinned, 156 - -Pie, Mushroom, 110 - Mushroom, Cold, 111 - Potato, 112 - Pumpkin, 113 - -Pies and Puddings, General, 183 - Paste for, 184. - -Pine Apple Fritters, 120 - Ice, 177 - Jelly, 162 - Sauce, 56 - Tinned, 156 - -Piroski Sernikis, 116 - -Pistachio Cream, 167 - -Plum Jam, 164 - Sauce, 56 - -Plums, Stewed, 174 - -Polenta, 115 - -Poached Eggs, 81 - -Poivrade Sauce, 57 - -Polish Pancakes, 116 - -Porridge, Barley and Rice, 75 - Milk, 75 - Lentil, 75 - Oatmeal, 73 - Sago, 77 - Whole Meal, 75 - -Potato Balls, 127 - Biscuits, 129 - Border, 128 - Bread, 129 - Cake, 129 - Cheese, 130 - Cheesecake, 169 - Chips, 126 - Croquettes, 127 - Fritters, 120 - Omelet, 92 - Omelet, Sweet, 92 - Ribbon, 126 - Salad, 101 - Soup, 38 - -Potatoes and Eggs, 87 - a la Barigoule, 130 - a la Lyonnaise, 131 - a la Maitre d'hotel, 127 - a la Provencale, 131 - Baked, 125 - Boiled, 123 - Broiled, 131 - Fried, 126 - Mashed, 125 - New, 127 - Saute, 126 - Steamed, 124 - -Pound Cake, 179 - -Prune Sauce, 57 - -Prunes, Stewed, 173 - -Pudding, Cheese, 114 - French Bean, 140 - Mushroom, 111 - Peas, 134 - Pumpkin, 113 - -Puddings, 182 - -Pumpkin a la Parmesane, 115 - Pie, 113 - Pudding, 113 - Soup, 39 - -Puree, Endive, 31 - Lentils, 34 - Mushroom, 55 - of Beans, Red, 26, - of Beans, White, 26 - of Chestnuts, 30 - Sorrel, 58 - - -Rarebit, Welsh, 115 - -Raspberry Ice, 176 - Jam, 164 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 57 - -Ramequins, Cheese, 114 - -Ratafia Sauce, 57 - -Ravigotte Sauce, 57 - -Red Currant Jam, 164 - Jelly, 161 - Sauce, 50 - -Red Haricot Bean Soup, 26 - -Rhubarb Soup, 39 - Stewed, 173 - -Rice, 60 - and Barley Porridge, 75 - and Cabbage, 63 - and Cheese, 63 - and Eggs, 66 - and Ginger Fritters, 121 - and Tomatoes, 66 - Boiled, 61 - Border, 64 - Croquettes, 65 - Curried, 63 - Fritters, 121 - Soup, 39 - Soup a la Royale, 39 - -Risotto, 62 - -Robert Sauce, 58 - -Roux, Brown, 22 - White, 22 - - -Sage and Onion Fritters, 118 - -Sago Porridge, 77 - Soup, 40 - -Salad, Artichoke, 102 - Asparagus, 101 - Bean, Broad, 103 - Bean, Haricot, 103 - Beetroot, 102 - Cauliflower, 104 - Celery, 103 - Cucumber, 102 - Dandelion, 103 - Egg, 99 - Endive, 100 - English, 97 - French, 97 - French Beans, 102 - German, 100 - Hop, 104 - Italian, 104 - Mayonnaise, 98 - Melon, 105 - Mixed, 98 - Mustard and Cress, 104 - Onion, 104 - Potato, 101 - Salsify, 101 - Sweet, 105 - Tomato, 99 - Water-cress, 103 - -Salads, 96 - -Salsify, Boiled, 151 - Salad, 101 - -Sandwiches, 105 - Cheese, 107 - Cream Cheese, 107 - Egg, 106 - Indian, 106 - Mushroom, 106 - Mustard and Cress, 106 - Tomato, 105 - -Sauce, Allemande, 44 - Almond, 44 - Almond, Clear, 45 - Apple, 45 - Arrowroot, 45 - Artichoke, 45 - Asparagus, 45 - Bread, 45 - Butter, 46 - Butter, Black, 48 - Butter, Oiled, 48 - Caper, 49 - Carrot, 49 - Cauliflower, 49 - Celery, 49 - Cherry, 49 - Chestnut, 49 - Cinnamon, 49 - Cocoa-nut, 49 - Cucumber, 49 - Currant, Black, 50 - Currant, Red, 50 - Curry, 50 - Dutch, 51 - Green, 51 - Egg, 51 - Fennel, 51 - German Sweet, 51 - Ginger, 52 - Gooseberry, 52 - Horseradish, 52 - Indian Pickle, 53 - Italian, 53 - Maitre d'hotel, 53 - Mango Chutney, 53 - Mayonnaise, 53 - Green, 54 - Mint, 54 - Mushroom, 54 - Brown, 55 - Puree, 55 - Mustard, 55 - Onion, 55 - Brown, 55 - Orange Cream, 56 - Parsley, 56 - Pine Apple, 56 - Plum, 56 - Poivrade, 57 - Prune, 57 - Radish, 57 - Raspberry, 57 - Ratafia, 57 - Ravigotte, 57 - Robert, 58 - Sorrel, 58 - Soubise, 58 - Sweet, 58 - Tarragon, 58 - Tartar, 58 - Tomato, 59 - Truffle, 59 - Vanilla, 59 - White, 59 - -Sauces, 44 - -Savoury Rice, 66 - -Scotch Broth, 40 - Kale, 148 - -Sea Kale, 148 - Soup, 40 - -Sorrel Sauce, 58 - Soup, 40 - -Soubise Sauce, 58 - -Souffle, Cheese, 92 - Omelet, 93 - -Soup, Almond, 23 - Apple, 24 - Artichoke, 24 - Asparagus, 24 - Barley, 25 - Bean, French, 27 - Green, 27 - Haricot, Red, 26 - Haricot, White 26 - Beetroot, 26 - Cabbage, 27 - Carrot, 27 - Cauliflower, 28 - Celery, 29 - Cheese, 29 - Cherry, 29 - Chestnut, 30 - Clear, 30 - Cocoanut, 31 - Cottage, 30 - Endive, 31 - Fruit, 31 - Green Pea, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - Hare, 32 - Hotch Potch, 32 - Jardiniere, 33 - Julienne, 33 - Leek, 33 - Lentil, 33 - Lentil a la Soubise, 34 - Macaroni, Clear, 34 - Thick, 34 - Milk, 35 - Mock Turtle, 35 - Mulligatawny, 35 - Onion, 35 - Brown, 36 - Ox-tail, 36 - Palestine, 24 - Parsnip, 36 - Pear, 37 - Pea, Split, 37 - Green, Dried, 37 - Fresh, 38 - Potato, 38 - Pumpkin, 39 - Rhubarb, 39 - Rice, 39 - a la Royale, 39 - Sago, 40 - Scotch Broth, 40 - Sea Kale, 40 - Sorrel, 40 - Spinach, 41 - Tapioca, 41 - Tomato, 41 - Turnip, 42 - Vegetable, 33 - Marrow, 42 - Vermicelli, 42 - White, 42 - White, 43 - -Soups, 23 - General Instructions, 17 - -Sparghetti, 67 - -Spinach, 149 - and Eggs, 85 - Extract of, 25 - Fritters, 118 - Soup, 41 - Tinned, 154 - -Stock, 21 - -Strawberry Cream, 167 - Ice, 176 - Jam, 164 - -Sweet Fritters, 118 - Omelet, 94 - Salads, 105 - Sauce, 58 - German, 51 - - -Tagliatelli, 73 - -Tapioca Soup, 41 - -Tarragon Sauce, 58 - -Tartar Sauce, 58 - -Thickening, Brown, 22 - White, 22 - -Timbale of Macaroni, 70 - -Toast, Egg, 85 - Milk, 77 - -Tomato Fritters, 117 - Pie, 112 - Salad, 99 - Sandwiches, 105 - Sauce, 59 - Soup, 41 - -Tomatoes and Macaroni, 72 - and Rice, 66 - au Gratin, 111 - Baked, 111 - Fried, 111 - Grilled, 111 - Stewed, 111 - -Truffle Sauce, 59 - -Turnip Soup, 42 - -tops, 151 - and Eggs, 85 - -Turnips, Boiled, 150 - Mashed, 150 - Ornamental, 150 - Tinned, 155 - - -Vanilla Cream, 166 - Fritters, 119 - Ice, 176 - Sauce, 59 - -Vegetable Curry, 151 - Marrow, 149 - Soup, 42 - Stuffed, 149 - Omelet, 95 - Soup, 42 - -Vegetables, Fresh, 137 - Preserved, 152 - Substantial, 122 - -Vermicelli Soup, 42 - Thick, 42 - - -Water-cress Salad, 103 - -Welsh Porridge, 146 - Rarebit, 115 - -White Haricot Bean Salad, 103 - Soup, 26 - Roux, 22 - Sauce, 59 - Soup, 43 - Thickening, 22 - -Whole-meal Bread, 180 - Porridge, 75 - - -Zucchetti Farcis, 115 - - * * * * * - -PRINTED BY CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, LA BELLE SAUVAGE, LONDON, E.C. - - * * * * * - -Cheap Edition (11_th Thousand_). - -Cloth gilt, 2s. 6d. - -WHAT GIRLS CAN DO. A Book for Mothers and Daughters. By PHYLLIS BROWNE, -Author of "A Year's Cookery." - -"Girls who are forced to earn their livelihood, are ambitious of making -themselves useful, or only desire not to be idle, may all consult with -advantage these pages, which have the great merit of being within the -compass of all to profit by."--_Times_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London._ - - * * * * * - -_Seventh and Cheap Edition._ - -Price 1s. 6d.; cloth, 2s. - -A HANDBOOK OF NURSING FOR THE HOME AND FOR THE HOSPITAL. By CATHERINE J. -WOOD, Lady Superintendent of the Hospital for Sick Children, Great Ormond -Street. - -"A book which every mother of a family ought to have, as well as every -nurse under training."--_Guardian_. - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_Ninth Edition_, extra fcap. 8vo, cloth, 6s. - -THE LADIES' PHYSICIAN. A Guide for Women to the Treatment of their -Ailments. 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"--_Athenaeum_. - - * * * * * - -CASSELL & COMPANY, LIMITED, _Ludgate Hill, London_. - - * * * * * - -_New and Revised Edition_, price 21s.; roxburgh, 25s - -The Family Physician. - -A Manual of Domestic Medicine by Physicians and Surgeons of the principal -London Hospitals. - -The range of subjects dealt with is wonderfully comprehensive, and THE BOOK -WILL BE WORTH TEN TIMES ITS COST by helping many a one to ward off some of -the 'ills that flesh is heir to.' It is of inestimable value. Many years' -experience of its far-reaching usefulness and trustworthiness enables us to -commend the work with the utmost confidence. 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Sample by post for 4s. 3d.; 4-1/2 lbs. -7s. 6d.; 6 [Transcriber's Note: Illegible.] lbs. 10s. 9d. - - * * * * * - -N.B.--No Charge for Carriage of Parcels of TEA [Transcriber's Note: -Illegible.] and over in England. -_Cheques [Transcriber's Note: Illegible.] - -BARBER AND COMPANY - -(Established in the last Century) - -274, REGENT CIRCUS, OXFORD STREET, W. - -61, Bishopsgate Street, London E.C. - -102, Westbourne Grove, W. - -67, Brixton Road, S.W. - -The Borough, London Bridge, S.E. - -King's Cross, N. - -42, Great Titchfield Street, W. - -Manchester--93, Market Street. - -Birmingham--Quadrant. - -Liverpool--4, Church Street, Winston Buildings, and 62 London Road. - -Preston--104, Fishergate. - -Bristol--33, Corn Street. - -Brighton--148, North Street. - -Hastings--Robertson Street, and Havelock Road. - - - - - -End of Project Gutenberg's Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery, by A. G. 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